Canon 85mm F1 2l Lens Cameras Survey (I actually want to give it 4. 5 stars) As most of you arriving at this page and considering this lens are the more professional/advanced amateur photographers whom already own plenty of L glass, this review will be written from a more stringent perspective on its capability to own up to its expensive price tag and compare with other L's. (i. e. no "It's so much better than my kit lens! Wow, buy it! The end") First up, it's uses. This lens is more obvious than others. Yep it's primarily a portrait lens. Anything that sits at 70mm focal length or higher and maintans wide apertures qualifies as such. L lenses tend to function well in two or sometimes more roles; this lens proves to function decently in one other role. Note that this lens's main advantage is it aperture. If the lens is stopped down, other L lenses start taking over with better image quality. With this in mind, let's look at a breakdown of all the other possible uses for this lens: As a general telephoto: Trying to stop it down and use the lens as an 85mm telephoto for "everyday" use really doesn't work: the 70-200mm (any of them) produces better sharpness at comparable apertures, equal chromatic abberation, faster AF, and adds more versatility for less price (with the exception that the 85mm has better saturation). One could argue that situations with low light might prove a worthy use for this lens, such as weddings & receptions. In this case there is a tie. The 85mm aperture advantage means usable shutter times in very low light, but you will notice a problem trying to autofocus with this lens (as its AF is known for being not exactly the best/fastest in the industry). The 70-200 f/2. 8L IS has a three stop stabilizer, granting an "effective" 70-200mm f/1. 4 (only "effective" as your shutter times are still slower than what a true f/1. 4 lens would a achieve). So for low light with less action, you're better off going with the 70-200 f/2. 8L IS. With more action (hopefully lateral action not coming towards or away from the lens, stressing its AF) the 85mm will have an advantage. Usage as a macro: not really. There are much better lenses for this (i. e. the 180mm f/3. 5L) The minimum focus distance is too long to garner anything better than a mild macro lens. The only advantage the 85mm has in this regard is it's extreme DOF at minimum focus. The 180mm f/3. 5L only produces an equivalen DOF when it focuses in to 1:4 macro or closer, meaining that the 85mm can achieve its beautiful DOF while encompassing a more "zoomed out" view of a subject, which the 180mm can't do. However, the 85mm's image degradation wide open sets it back far enough so that, surprisingly, the 135mm f/2L takes over as your "semi-macro with extreme DOF" lens, which performs much better wide open with an approximately equivalent DOF at minimum focus (and with less weight). Landscape: yep this works, and this the area other than portraiture that the 85mm f/1. 2 functions well in, but only if your objective is to produce ultra-thin DOF images. Otherwise other L lenses fulfill this role with much better satisfaction. Exposures of flowers and foliage work well, along with anything that features an interesting main subject and a background suitably beatiful for being blurred into a wash of color. Once again however, the 135mm competes as a contender in the DOF catagory. All things considered, the 135mm produces better image quality while the 85mm produces a somewhat stronger DOF with a more surreal/dreamy feel to its images. Portraiture: the main enchilada. No other lens performs portraiture as well as the 85mm f/1. 2 under $4000. Female subjects will especially appreciate the dreamy DOF this lens can produce. If you do portraits or wedding work, this lens MUST be in your bag. Mark it up as a necessary business expense and start saving now. If you actually happen to have the $4000 previously mentioned, you may wish to consider the 200mm f/1. 8L or the 300mm F/2. 8L. They yield an equivalent DOF at their longer focal lengths and deliver superior image quality, but require much more working room and more ambient light. Lens comparisons: The 85mm f/1. 8 is one of the biggest competitors to this lens in terms of buying decisions. Forget the 100's of pages worth of forum entries regarding this debate, it boils down to this: you know you need an 85mm portrait lens. Are you a professional or demand the best in image quality? If yes, get this lens. Period. Enjoy the enhanced DOF, build quality, surrealistic/dreamy exposures, transfered dynamic range, and the peace of mind that comes form knowing you bought the best and your images aren't hindered by your equipment. If no, buy the
85mm f/1. 8. Enjoy the additional spending money, lighter weight, faster AF, and additional telephoto usage. That's all there is to it. The 85mm f/1. 2 Mark I is also a competitor on the used market. Having used both the MkI and MkII variants, I find the ~$300 difference worth it, mainly due to the AF. The MkII's AF enhancemen The Canon EF 85mm f/1. 2L II USM lens is a very heavy (1025 grams or 2. 25 lbs), very well built lens. It comes packaged with the appropriate hood, the Canon ES-7911. You get both a lens cap and a mount cap, all packed inside tight conformal foam to protect the lens during shipping. There's also a very brief manual and the usual warranty paperwork. The 85mm specification is for a full-frame camera; with an APS-C size sensor like the one in my EOS 40D, this is multiplied by 1. 6 to an effective 136mm. The lens offers AF and manual focus. However, the manual focus is electronically driven from the focus ring to the AF motor system, which has several consequences. First, you can't focus when the camera is off. Second, the rate of focus is limited by the speed of the focus motor. Third, focus adjustments are extremely precise, essentially free of backlash and drift. The first two issues are negatives, but in my view, they are more than outweighed by the third. For instance, I often take images of the night sky; in order to do this, the lens can be AF-focused on something in the sky (I've been using Mars recently for this), and then it can be put into manual focus where the focus will remain correct and constant as long as the camera and lens temperatures do not change significantly. This is the only lens I own that has stable enough focus hardware to be able to do this. The focus ring is broad and well-textured, and a pleasure to use. There is a second textured area on the lens barrel, closer to the camera, that you can mistake for the focus ring - this area is meant to assist you in mounting and unmounting the lens. I've learned to avoid it. Manual focus is precise and moving the ring results in a fine enough focus change that when you blow a shot, you can be absolutely certain the lens wasn't to blame. The AF/Manual switch is in a reasonable location, close to the camera body. There is a range indication on the barrel of the lens behind a transparent window which serves to keep debris out of the workings of the lens. I have found that after you focus, if you change the f-stop, the lens does move a little off-focus; it is slight but definite. So take care to re-focus if you change f-stops. While I'm thinking about how AF acts with this lens, one thing I definitely noticed was that at f/1. 2, the camera can AF in almost any situation. I can AF on single stars, faint skin detail, all kinds of things that were impossible with my f/1. 8 wide open, which all in all is a very pleasant experience. The lens lacks any form of image stabilization. On the one hand, looking at the sheer size of the optical components used to construct this lens, one is tempted to sympathize with Canon - IS would be quite a technical challenge if we want to keep all that great light gathering capability. On the other, IS is showing up in more and more places, and for the price. . . well, let's just say that perhaps this is one of the justifications for building IS into the camera body instead of the lens. One last point is that since the lens is inherently very fast, perhaps there is less overall need for IS (though that argument falls apart the first time you *do* need it!) Mounting: The red alignment dot is poorly located - it is on the camera-mount end of the lens where the lens approaches the body of the camera; this location makes it impossible to see when the lens is close to, but not yet mounted on, the camera body. It is a raised physical dot, which is good, but the location is a problem. I consider this a fairly serious error on Canon's part, as this is a *very* expensive lens, and I prefer to have the lens mounting process as smooth and crunch-free as possible. Hopefully they'll move the dot in the next version of the lens. I added a similarly sized dot (just a sticker) on the barrel of my lens orthogonal to the mounting indicator on the camera body, and that helps a lot. The lens takes a 72mm filter, and I've been using it with the Canon UV haze filter. The lens is simply too valuable to risk shooting with the optics exposed. Although the lens is very heavy, there is no tripod mount; apparently, because the lens is (relatively) short, Canon feels that the balance is still mainly at the camera body end. I'm not entirely sure I agree, but it isn't a huge issue. The available f-stops range from f/1. 2 wide open to f/16. 0 fully stopped down. This is something to keep in mind if you may need considerable depth of field - you should being another lens along. This lens really does specialize in largish f-stop settings -- it cannot stand in for the f/32 you can get out of Canon's $70 f/1. 8 lens, for instance -- if you find you need that kind of depth of field, you'll be putting the f/1. 2L right back in the bag. Because the
f/1. 2 aperture setting lets in so much light, you will likely find that you have to be very careful in order not to overexpose your subjects in normal daylight, even at the fastest shutter speeds (my EOS 40D can do 1/8000th I used to have the previous generation 85mm f/1. 2 L, and I found this a worthy upgrade. Why get this over the f/1. 8? For the extra stop of light, the extremely shallow depth of field, the bokeh, and the build. This is no amateur lens, at least not when used wide open (which is one of the main reasons to buy this lens in the first place). With a depth of field measured in mere millimeters, the lens is unforgiving of both the camera it's attached to (the focus has to be dead on), and the photographer. The worse one's technique is, the fewer good shots will come out of the camera, and this at a much higher ratio than nearly all other lenses. However, the shots that are spot-on are some of the most rewarding possible with a modern camera, with amazing sharpness So get it if you can afford it, and have the patience to learn to use it properly. Once you do, a lesser lens just won't do. Intro: The Canon 85mm F/1. 2 L II lens is a: heavy, pro only, ultimate portrait, ultimate full frame, ultimate low light, battery draining lens. Purchase this lens if you are a pro or own a full sensor camera. If you are not a pro have a cropped sensor camera (40D, 50D, Rebel etc) and want an easier to use lens with similar portrait taking ability, and have room to back up a little then go purchase the about half as expensive and easier to use Canon 135mm F/2 L lens. The 135mm F/2: focuses much faster, feels lighter and is much easier on battery consumption. You will be much happier. If you are a pro then read on. If you are a pro then you will want both this Canon 85mm F/1. 2 L II lens and the Canon 135mm F/2 L lens. I find myself using the 85mm when photographing the ladies and children especially in low light and I don't have the room to backup. The creamy dreamy soft images and great bokeh really compliment women and children. I use the 135mm more for male portraits and when I either have more room to backup or need more reach and or if I want to be in stealth mode at public events like a renaissance festival. Cropped VS full frame: The ultimate portrait lens at F/1. 2 to F/1. 6 (and sharp lens stepped down to F/2 to F/4) on a full frame camera still very good on a 1. 6 cropped sensor camera (40D/50D, Rebels). You get almost exactly double the Bokeh on full sensor or 35mm film camera vs 1. 6 cropped sensor camera. Tips: Always but always carry a spare battery Step down a little say to F/1. 6 or F/1. 8 Never use focus lock and recompose, always focus and shoot with one continuous motion or you will never achieve focus especially wide open. Use a single focus point. I usually focus on one of the eyes. Find out exactly where your focus is, front / back focus etc and shoot accordingly. Only mount this lens under controlled conditions and take your time, the rear element is exposed and the mounting point is hard to see. If you want the lens focused at infinity before storing leave the camera ON and manual focus to infinity Pros: Super Bokeh Great lens hood Too many clients!! Super low light event lens Best portrait lens for women and girls ever made Shoot outside at night with no tripod at 3200 ISO! Amazing looking photos that say professional all over them. Along with my Canon 135 F2 lens the finest portrait lens in the world! Sharp wide open in the center with wonder halo effect around outside Sharp edge to edge by F2. 0 This lens has Auto Lens Vignetting correction using peripheral Illumination control see Auto Vignetting comments below: Chromatic aberration correction when shooting Raw using Canon Digital Photo Professional (DPP) to process see below for more. Cons: Price Heavy! 1,025 Grams Exposed rear element No focus lock and recompose! It's always out of focus Removal procedure (1 manual focus, 2 focus to infinity, 3 camera Off) Battery Hog!! I only get 300 - 360 shots or so with Canon 40D 200 with Rebel XTi Install procedure (carefully line up without seeing red dot and protect rear element) Some CA (Chromatic Aberration) wide open totally gone when stopped down to 1. 8 not an issue with most portrait photos Auto Vignetting peripheral illumination control: I haven't noticed much vignetting with this lens even wide open, but Canon has this super sweet Auto Lens Vignetting correction that works with this lens both in camera with JPEG's and in RAW using peripheral Illumination control in Canon Digital Photo Professional (DPP) when using newer Canon digital EOS cameras (Canon Rebel XSi, 40D, 5D Mark II etc. ) . No more vignetting when shooting wide open!!! When shooting Raw open the file(s) in DPP and click on
NR/Lens Lens Aberration Correction / Tune and click on Peripheral illumination. The cameras listed above have already picked up the amount of vignetting based on focusing distance and F stop from the lens and the camera has saved the information with the Raw file. You can then adjust the amount under Peripheral Illumination if you don't like the amount automatically suggested. If you shot JPEG then you get the auto amount. SWEET!!! Chromatic aberration correction when shooting Raw: This lens does have some Chromatic aberration when shooting between F/. 1. 2 and F/1. 8 if you have bright contrasty subjects such as a car bumper. When shooting Raw using Canon Digital Photo Professional (DPP) you can click on NR/Lens Lens Aberration Correction / Tune and click on Chromatic Aberration then choose the amount of correction needed. Pretty Sweet!!! 9-20-2008 Update: This lens save my life this weekend!! I had a photo shoot at our church and they have it VERY dark in there. I was at the ISO limit with my F/2. 8 lenses even my Canon 135 F/2 L I was at 3200 ISO and still not stopping the action. It's hard to believe there is that much difference between F/2 and F/1. 2 but there is. I even managed to go back down to ISO 1600. Thank you Canon 85mm F/1. 2 II L!!!! 01-03-2009 Canon 5D Mark II Update: Canon 85mm F/1. 2 II L lens. W As a hobbyist, I owned the 85mm f/1. 8 for several years, and admittedly, rarely ever used it, because despite it's fast aperture, it wasn't nearly as versatile as my 24-105mm f/4. 0L IS USM, 17-35 f/2. 8L USM, or 70-200mm f/2. 8L IS USM II. Then I turned pro, and along came the 85mm f1. 2L USM Mark II in Feb 07. For some reason I became obsessed with this lens, after reading countless forum posts and reviews. So, I took a risk, and bought one. I've only had it for a about a week now, but the results are absolutely stunning, and it's now become my new favorite portrait lens. The diffusion is breathtaking, and despite what the forums say, learning how to shoot wide-open at 1. 2 doesn't take that long to learn. Let's face it, if you're even aware this lens exists, then chances are you're not exactly a novice. For those of you on the fence like I was for close to a month, please take my advice and get one. You won't regret it.
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