Issue Three • June – August 2015 • yorkonafork.com
1
The Menu
Tap on an image to jump to its feature.
3: Editorial
5. Event: Krakatoa
6. Gregg Wallace Tastes York.
7. Café No 8 at the Gallery.
8 Does York need any more food places?
10. Film: The Cook, The Thief, His Wife…
12. Bayerischer Bahnhof Gosebrau
13. Seasonal Food
20: Le Cochon Avegule
24. Rafi’s
28: Andy Annat
32: Deramore Arms
31. Golden Ball
32. Evil Eye
34. Durham Ox
40. Recipes
42. Hazelnut & Teff Biscuits
44. Mushroom Stroganoff
46. The Kitchen
48. Haxby & Wigginton Scarecrow Festival.
Editorial:Third Course
How can it be nearly June already?! Admittedly we’re hardly in the thrall of a hazy British summer quite yet, but it hardly feels like any time since we were fighting our way through the Christmas markets. Still, halfway through the year and we’ve had some amazing food already while steeling ourselves for the second half of the year and all the excitement that’ll bring. This time out we nip to Harrogate and visit a pop-up BBQ by the effervescent Andy Annat (keep your eyes peeled for his new venture in York opening this year), have some wonderful vegan recipes, lovely illustrations and the usual mix of reviews and musings. Also check out our thoughts on Le Cochon Aveugle who are in the midst of a small expansion after their well-deserved receipt of two AA Rosettes! Coming up before the next issue, there’s the York Food Festival Taster event on 6th June, Ebor Streetfeast on Parliament Street 3rd - 5th July, the Yorkshire Fringe Comedy Festival in July and the reopening of York Art Gallery in August with Café No 8 taking up residence to run the café. Our next issue will coincide with the York Food Festival
at the beginning of September and we’re desperately excited about our plans for it. We’ve had so much fun putting these magazines together and want to spread the word further, so the September issue will be printed! Look out for it around the centre of York when the Festival’s in full swing! Obviously we need a bit of cash to make that work and we’ve been lucky enough to be supported by some lovely advertisers so far. This project is driven by a genuine passion for the food scene around here and has now attracted a broad readership of engaged foodies. Therefore, if you’re interested in getting your business in our pages, drop me a line at ben@benthorpe.co.uk so I can pop round with our rate card for a chat. Of course a perfect time to have that chat would be at our first social event on July 8th. We’re being hosted by the fantastic Krakatoa who are putting on a special menu for us. Check out details in this issue. I look forward to seeing you there! Ben Thorpe Editor, York on a Fork.
Three onions for our third issue, by Loren Harrison. lorenharrison.co.uk 3
Mimi’s Organic Wines Organic and biodynamic wines, suitable for vegetarians and vegans.
Wine Tasting Parties
VINCENT’S COFFEE
Tailored Hen Parties Online Shop mimisorganicwines.com @reinedesgouters
mimisorganicwines
At Vincent’s Coffee we are committed to ethical, sustainable coffee with no compromise on quality. Our three blends offer a variety of subtle, carefully constructed flavours to suit any palate. Great coffee, responsibly. Shop online: VincentsCoffee.com
Is your Baked Alaska worth showing off? One of the best beer specialists in the country. Innovative range of fine wines. Artisan cheeses and ciders. Rick Stein Food Hero.
28 Sandringham Street, Fishergate, York.
yorkbeerandwineshop.co.uk Monday & Sunday 6pm -10pm. Tuesday to Friday 11am -10pm. Saturday 10am -10pm. 01904 647136 4
ybws1985@yahoo.co.uk
If you want your brand to be seen by thousands of food lovers in York, advertise in York’s only food and drink magazine. Competitive rates with design. Email grace@coffeeyard.media or call 07719796949.
AN
INVITATION
York on a Fork @ Krakatoa
Wednesday 8th July • 7pm • Krakatoa, Tanner Row • £18
York on a Fork is proud to announce its first social evening! The lovely people at Krakatoa will be hosting us on Wednesday 8th July at 19:00 and providing a special set menu for willing guinea pigs who are happy to try something a touch more adventurous than the standard menu. This will be a great chance to meet like-minded people and enjoy some lovely food from one of York’s wonderful independent restaurants, so you’re strongly advised to book early - there’s a strict limit on the number of places available. Join us for a three-course set menu in a private dining room for only £18. Dietary requirements can be catered for. We’ll see you there! CLICK HERE TO GET YOUR TICKETS
5
All together now! Buttery biscuit base…
MasterChef’s Gregg Wallace is the face of new Taste York campaign.
6
Launching in June 2015,York’s delicious food and drink will be marketed in a brand new ‘Taste York’ campaign co-ordinated by Visit York. The campaign will involve a film with MasterChef ’s Gregg Wallace which will showcases the city’s extensive culinary highlights. Working with the TV celebrity, this new food-lovers video will
“ I now consider the city as one of my favourite places.” put York firmly on the map as a gastro destination. Gregg said, ‘I can honestly say that my visit to York was a joy and I now consider the city as one of my favourite places.’ Alongside this tasty video, there will be new eating and drinking pages at visityork.org/ taste, as well as a new ‘Taste York’ leaflet, which will all profile York’s fast growing gastro scene.
Café No 8 to expand to the Art Gallery. This summer sees the reopening of the York Art Gallery after an eight million pound refurbishment. Amongst the highlights will be the launch of a centre for ceramic art and works from Stanley Spencer, David Hockney and LS Lowry. But you don’t read York on a Fork for art! And I’ve every confidence the rest of York’s media has that covered to a tee. What’s more exciting from a culinary perspective is that the food presence at the gallery won’t be an anonymous chain or half-hearted effort serving weak tea and dry cakes. Local bistro Café No 8 have been awarded the contract to run the Café and are currently gearing up a new menu to make sure that their corner of the gallery is a culinary masterpiece in its own right. Yes, tea and cake will be available, but there’ll be some more substantial and exciting options to get stuck into too featuring the best local Yorkshire fare. In case you were wondering what this means for the bistro on Gillygate; not too much. There will be some tweaks to the offering once the Art Gallery launches, however there’s no need to mess too much with a winning formula! Café No 8 @ The Art Gallery (and indeed the Art Gallery) will be open on st the 1 August - see you there!
7
“Do we really need any more food places in town?”
BY GRACE NEAL.
8
Recently, The Press announced that a branch of Weird Fish would be opening in York. “Do we really need any more food places in town?”, responded one concerned resident. Of course, she didn’t actually read the article beyond the headline. Rather than Weird Fish being a sushi bar combined with an extreme sport, they sell comfy looking fleeces to people who spend their weekends with sheep. Regardless, she asked a question which is likely to be echoed by others. I’m going to respond. Writing for a publication of this nature obviously positions me with a certain bias. However, I care for our city’s universal economy and social offering. The idea of there being enough eateries in town isn’t foreign to me. York does have an abundance of café’s, restaurants, pubs, bars, tea rooms, hog roasters and milkshakers. On wheels, we have ice-cream vans, sausage wagons, donut stalls, and crepe trucks. Efe’s kebab van will see you safely into the wee hours. You can be well-fed in York. But the truth is, we all are more discerning than that. We all have our own preference for food, which meanders between time and location. The beauty of York’s smörgåsbord of eateries is that there’s something for everyone. (Apart from maybe those wanting their fix of pseudo-Swedish snacks.) If you’ve not queued for your lunch in York, you’ve never been. I’ve waited ten minutes for a clear table at Bruks, and ended up sharing a sizeable one with another couple. It’s not just the small cafés. The grande Costa Coffee on Market Street had me queuing the longest I’ve had to for caffeine. I was served a takeaway cup in the hope that I wouldn’t stay. I found the last remaining stool next to a woman who looked at me as if I had mentioned that her child was ugly (it was). I don’t count the Exodus-sized wait for Bettys as a proper queue. You go to Bettys because you think queuing for Bettys will be worth it for telling your friends that you found the Promised Land. The French Fancy is a byproduct of queuing.
Another important issue of York’s is that most of the property in the city centre isn’t big. While all the designers come to York, our stores aren’t anywhere the size of their Leeds and Manchester siblings. Smaller buildings with more medieval nook and cranny than Elizabeth I’s bedposts are the kind of building people want to spend time in. An independent café will embrace the historic styling. A large chain would cover heritage such as exposed beams, cat statues and shonky brickwork if they aren’t mentioned in HQ’s branding guidelines. We have the Vangarde, the Designer Outlet, Monks Cross and Clifton Moor for that. So what would be better than filling the cubby holes with comfy armchairs and art?
“I was served a takeaway cup in the hope that I wouldn’t stay. ” We are lucky to have our tourists. The tragedy of the tourism industry is the majority of retail, catering and cultural careers don’t pay a living wage, while York’s budget private lettings aren’t good value. I once lived in an equally historic city of around the same population as York, which struggles to attract visitors. There, cafés are replaced with charity shops, cash-for-bling shops and buynow-pay-later shops. In fact, there are so few independent shops there, it’s comparable to having a city-centre Designer Outlet. Let’s embrace what we have. York is a city for long, lazy afternoons eating and drinking with loved ones. York is a city for food. As long as people eat, there will be a demand for quality dining. Finally, if someone does open a sushi restaurant with parcour-inspired dining, we’ll be first in the queue on opening night.
9
10
Film: The Cook, the Thief, His Wife & Her Lover. By Marc Foster. The Cook, the Thief, His Wife & Her Lover sets its stall out from the start. Director Peter Greenaway frames the opening to appear more play than film, it’s very clear that the audience is watching a set on a soundstage, but very quickly our perspective is shifted 180 degrees and we are introduced to Michael Gambon’s Albert Spica…our titular Thief. It’s within this very first encounter with Albert that Greenaway establishes the tone of this film as brash, vulgar, aggressive and uncompromising. This is Albert’s film and Michael Gambon tears through it with all the verve and hatred of a man truly possessed by the character he is playing. For the next two hours Greenaway wants us to be repulsed, this is Greenaway’s attack at Thatcherism and is a powerful singular vision from a filmmaker who will simply not compromise. At its heart the film is a simple tale. Beautiful oppressed wife Georgina, played by Helen Mirren, has a chance encounter with Michael (Alan Howard) who she sees as the opposite of her boorish husband. He’s quiet and isn’t hiding behind the illusion of grandeur that Albert is portraying with his new obsession with gastronomy. Aided by our Cook & restaurateur Richard, Georgina & Michael embark on an affair where they will meet in-between courses in the kitchen away from, but under the nose of Albert and his crew. Although The Cook, the Thief, His Wife & Her Lover is without question Peter Greenaway’s vision he is aided in creating the atmosphere of oppression and impending doom by composer Michael Nyman, whose score is as intrusive and intimidating as the visuals it
accompanies. This is balanced ever so perfectly with Ben van Os & Jan Roelfs spectacular production design that mixes Terry Gilliam’s manic clutter with Alain Resnais sparseness. The final unsung hero of this film is costume designer Jean-Paul Gaultier who is for the first time working as a designer for film and perfectly complements the mood of the films design. Alberts crew and Georgina’s outfits change depending on which set the scene is being played out on, in the street we have a soft blue, in the kitchen a sepia green, when we enter the decadent restaurant we have a stark red and finally the bathroom is a pure white often lit with a pinkish sheen. This is clearly a film where everybody is on board and either shares Greenaway’s ideology or is just happy to share and be part of his genius. The Cook, the Thief, His Wife & Her Lover is a film that should be revered now more than ever. Its nastiness makes it a hard film to enjoy but its brilliance makes it a compelling film to watch. It’s uncompromising in its approach and it pulls no punches in its attitude towards vulgarity, nudity and violence. This may not be a nice or pleasant film but it certainly is Peter Greenaway’s absolute masterpiece and deserves to be seen.
Marc Foster - @dudefozz is co-host of Dude and a Monkey Film Podcast dudeandamonkey.libsyn.com. Chief writer and editor of towatchpile.co.uk, Quizmaster at Picturehouse City Screen York and a freelance film writer. 11
BAYERISCHER BAHNHOF GOSEBRAU (abv 4.6%) By Jim Helsby. @yorkbeerwine The current revolution in brewing has rescued many beer styles from impending oblivion, and in a few cases has even revived previously extinct styles. Mild ales, which sixty years made up perhaps 80% of draught beer in the UK, all but disappeared during the 1980s and 90s as their cloth cap image fell out of favour. They remain a minority taste but their future now seems assured. The weissebiers of Bavaria went through a similar decline during the 50s and 60s, and for much the same reasons, but are now firmly in the ascendant. Porters were mere history when York Beer and Wine Shop opened its doors in 1985. Now they are very much part of the national and international beer scene. Saison beers, a niche product even in their native Belgium, seem to be springing up everywhere. One beer style still under threat is a speciality of the German state of Saxony, and most particularly its capital, Leipzig. Gosebier first appeared at the end of the 10th century, in the town of Goslar (from which it takes its name) about 100km west of Leipzig. It is a top-fermented beer, made from a 50/50 (near enough) mix of malted barley and wheat (qv Bavarian weissebier), spiced with hops and coriander (qv Belgian witbier), and fermented with yeast and lactobacillus (qv Berliner weissebier). Its unique feature is the addition of salt to the brew, a process introduced by Leipzig brewers in an effort to reproduce the mineral rich water of the beer’s original Goslar home. At the beginning of the 20th century, Gosebier was the most popular beer in Leipzig, with around 80 breweries in production. After WW2, the style declined steeply, as breweries damaged by wartime bombing remained unrepaired under the East German communist regime. Only since reunification has the decline been reversed, and only to a very modest extent. Gosebier’s future should still be regarded as uncertain. Pale yellow and decidedly hazy, it pours with a moderate head, subsiding quickly to a thin layer. Its wheat beer origins are immediately apparent on the nose with banana, kiwi fruit, a hint of bubblegum, some herbal notes and a cider-like streak of apple. Although hops are listed among the ingredients, they are imperceptible in the aroma, and only just apparent in the flavour, which is very dry, with light, biscuity malt, and tart lemon and green apple. There are spices too, and a refreshing acidic sourness, with the salt showing in the finish as an intriguing mineral aftertaste. Rest assured this is not beery seawater! Like its Berliner Weissebier cousin, it is often served in its home territory with a dash of raspberry or woodruff syrup to offset the sourness, but true aficionados prefer it straight. This is a really crisp, distinctive and thirst-quenching beer, which could be just the ticket as we head towards the scorching summer months. Drink it, and help save an endangered species!
12
What you should be eating now… Summer can produce the most beautiful foods. Here’s a visual shopping list for the season. Photography by J.P. Chret, R. Bruyeu, C. Elwell, C. Jung, Z. L. Zarotti and K. Luangchaipreeda.
13
JUNE GOOSEBE NEW PO
ERRIES & OTATOES 15
ARTICHOKE&
16
&CRAB JULY
17
AU G A P P & APRI 18
U S T P L E & ICOT 19
20
It’s slightly apt that I’m writing this so close to Marina O’Loughlin saying nice things about The Man Behind The Curtain in Leeds given that restaurant’s York roots. I never made it to the Blind Swine during its Swinegate tenure, in fact to be brutally honest I wasn’t hugely tempted after watching a rather self-absorbed demo from Michael O’Hare at the Food Festival. Everything suggested that the food was sensational, but I couldn’t quite crest the peak of irritating selfassurance insulating the whole thing. Opened by the Blind Swine’s former sous chef Josh Overington as a sister restaurant in summer 2013, six months later Josh and Michael went their separate ways with Josh taking charge of the Cochon’, thankfully no longer with bra stalactites.
The soon to be Mrs YoaF to be was sadly otherwise engaged with some wedding organisation, so I drafted a friend into her place to make up the foursome along with the inimitable Puboholic and his engaging partner. After meeting in the Walmgate Ale House we took a five minute stroll to our table and strapped in for a nicely paced walk towards culinary satisfaction. Greeting us were side plates of fresh bread and butter. Well done beurre noisette fastened such nutty flavour to the fresh bread that it was almost an event in itself. Next up, Potage of Brie de Meaux & Jerusalem artichoke with braised lamb’s tongue and truffle crumble. Take a second and think about that description, it’s not a dish; it’s a range of textures and flavours you’d not expect but turn out to be wonderful. Any semblance of professionalism melted away as I rushed through the dish before realising I had a camera, let alone intended to write about it.
Le Cochon Aveugle.Walmgate, York. By Ben Thorpe.
Never mind, squid and cauliflower risotto. A chance to redeem my professionalism, such as it is. This ‘risotto’ was topped with crisped curry leaves and settled into a bath of prawn head broth. The overall effect was a sense of earthy seafood headlines from the broth while the solid elements focussed on the meat at the heart of the dish. Moving into the meat course, the table hushed around 12 hour short rib with onion textures. Accompanied by unusually light black pudding, the meat melted away as one would hope from that cut and cooking combination. Jostling to lighten the meat, smears and crunches of onion invaded the plate to complement one another and show the range of sensations that can arise from a single vegetable. 21
Charged with finishing the set courses were warm caneles with banana and rum milk. I’ll own up to checking what caneles were on the pretext of a wider comparison but not to any argument with the concept. The milk was sweet and made a nice counterpoint, but was a little more anonymous than the name would suggest. Finishing up, we were served charcoal crème brûlée, blood orange puree and chocolate bourbon ice cream. Similarly to the flavoured milk, the ice cream was a kiss more conventional than expected, but the overall sensation worked admirably. Perhaps the crisp of the brûlée could have been slightly more obscene but,
22
forsaking coffee and cheese, it was a lovely way to end a lovely meal. Thirty five pounds a head for food of this standard is a bargain. Looking for criticisms, the mushrooms we had to start the meal were too sharp and it’d be nicer to see some of the flavours shout about themselves more loudly, but I immediately recommend Cochon’ as one of the finest places to eat in York. Nice ideas, well executed, with unfussy service: everything hung together nicely. Guess I’ll have to take the soon to be Mrs YoaF to give it a whirl soon.
23
24
If you have ever wandered down Goodramgate and been hit by a mouthwateringly aromatic scent, it is extremely likely you have just walked past Rafi’s Spicebox, one of the street’s best kept culinary secrets.
Rafi's Spice Box Goodramgate, York. By Beth Vincent.
Rafi’s Spicebox is an Asian delicatessen specialising in preparing unique curry packs. The packs were invented by Rafi’s founder, cookery author Rafi Fernandez, who opened her first shop in Sudbury, way back (apologies for the millennial speak) in 1989. Founded on the principle of bringing authentic Indian cuisine into people’s homes, Rafi’s provided an easy introduction to exotic ingredients, which at the time were still relatively unusual. Despite Indian cuisine becoming more accessible and available, Rafi’s has managed to forge its own recipe for success, which is a result of great curry and customer service. The second shop opened in our fair city of York in 2004, which has been followed by a more recent opening in Harrogate. Obviously we Northerners have a real taste for the stuff! Business is still booming for what might now be called the chain! Undoubtedly the most iconic and popular Rafi’s product has to be their spice packs, which offer an easy way of recreating a multitude of dishes. The selection leaves you spoilt for choice, ranging from the humble Tikka Masala to the more adventurous Xactti Masala. The offerings don’t just stop at curry, on offer in the York shop are a variety of side dishes, all sold alongside store cupboard staples such as rice, spices and sundries. As an avid lover of dining out on authentic Indian cuisine, the lure of being able to recreate real and complex dishes at home meant that I had to go in the Goodramgate shop and try something out for myself. Firstly I have to mention that our welcome in the shop was extremely warm and inviting. It seems that Rafi’s reputation for excellent service is founded upon real customer experience!
The curry pack and side dish menu is clearly displayed behind the back of the counters, which are themselves laden with spices, all looking extremely colourful and enticing. We spent a good while perusing the packs on offer, but were unsure which to go for. This is where the friendly staff members really came into their own, as they were happy to guide us through the menu and narrow down our choices. I explained that I wanted to use some cod (responsibly sourced!) that I had picked up the other day and make a fish-based curry. All of the packs are quite versatile and can be used in conjunction with fish, meat or vegetables. However there are obviously some flavours better suited to certain things. We were directed towards the Mulligatanni Masala, a blend of peppercorns and coconut and a dish they specifically recommend for fish and seafood. For our sides, we chose the Golden Pumpkin Curry and were advised that we could use the far more available butternut squash as a substitute. This versatility is something which I think makes the packs so popular, as you can use up ingredients that you already have at home. Oh and they also feed up to six people, so you can feed a family, host a small party or simply enjoy a week of delicious leftovers! Our chosen packs were prepared freshly in front of us with a flurry of fingers and scissors as all of the spices and fresh herbs were deftly prepared and packed by expert hands. We were also asked how spicy we wanted the curry to be (medium, if you’re wondering) as they can dial up or down the heat for each pack, depending on your preference.
25
26
So onto the most important part: how did we get on at home? Firstly the packs are an absolute breeze to prepare. All we had to do was add the pack to the saucepan with the specified liquid (e.g. coconut milk or water) and simmer this gently for 5-8 minutes. Then come the fresh ingredients -in our case fish and butternut squash- and we stirred the mixture well and left to simmer, lid on, for 25 minutes. Now at this point, Rafi’s actually recommends that you leave the curry to cool and store it in the fridge for the following day, as this allows the flavour to develop. If I’m perfectly honest, we just garnished and went straight to the eating stage… I was extremely impressed. So impressed in fact that I actually consider Rafi’s to be a rival to some of the curry houses in this fair city. The flavours were surprisingly richly developed for something that was so easy to prepare! Rafi’s also offers incredibly good value compared with eating out or ordering in. The main curry pack costs £4.25 and side pack a mere £1.50. Add the cost of ingredients with rice etc. and you are looking at a six person meal for easily under £20, depending on what you put in. We have even been back for more, which is always a good sign! I’m definitely looking forward to working my way through the menu in the future and exploring everything Rafi’s has to offer.
Find Rafi’s Spicebox at 17 Goodramgate and online at spicebox.co.uk
27
“What do you mean you’re going to a barbecue? It’s February!” It was only when someone posed that question to me that I realised that a winter barbecue might sound odd. In actual fact the slow process of meat preparation took place off site so we weren’t a crowd packed around a freezing brazier somewhere grim, rather we were comfortably situated in a charming pub in the middle of Knaresborough with an excellent selection of local beers. Andy Annat is something of a barbecue legend, so it’s pretty fortunate to have him based in our region. His enthusiasm for barbecued meat is astonishingly infective and palpable in every conversation. His upcoming plans for Yorkshire Day are particularly ambitious and off (or rather on…) the wall. We should have some more details of that in our June ezine for you to disbelieve. Under the name ‘Crackerjack BBQ’, Andy runs pop up nights like this. Bagging a table on the first floor of the pub alongside a dog who could scarcely believe the potential of his evening, we settled into a wonderfully hopped pint and waited for the first leg of our meaty odyssey. Chicken was up first, with a delicate tandoori spice and a side of rice, onion bhaji and popadom. The onion bhaji
28
was cooked to perfection, balancing crispy extremities with a cooked-through centre, while the chicken kicked its way through my (high) expectations with wonderful moistness. Thigh meat in particular was packed with flavour. Around this time we realised the potential magnitude of the task; two more meat courses of this size would certainly challenge our appetites, thankfully without entering into Man Vs Food territory. Next up we headed to Greece for a lamb souvlaki. Skewered chunks of lamb exploded with flavour and moisture in the mouth while counterpointed against grilled garlic flatbread. Of the two flatbreads we shared, the more charred example had a greater depth of flavour, but this minor inconsistency was far from a big deal. With such a heavily meat-based menu, the danger would be a lack of differentiation between courses, but with both meats showing great depth of flavour and texture alongside carefully prepared and presented sides, everything was clearly in hands as expert as Mr Annat’s reputation would suggest. Last meat course then. Enigmatically described as “Porkie Pie Ploughmans”, it was indeed telling porkies! If the evening was of a more pretentious nature it could have been described as ‘deconstructed’, but that wouldn’t give full credit to the commitment and skill on the plate.
It’s a cracker, Jack! By Ben Thorpe.
A couple of discs of pastry nodded toward that ‘pie’ description while sharply-dressed slaw cut against the smoke-infused meat. Two hour apple and maple “big pit” pork was a perfect headline: meat dropping aside at the merest suggestion of a forking, infused with (not overpowered by) smoke and with a sweet glaze… beyond reproach. As with previous courses the quantities were generous, indeed challenging, so we bothered the staff for some foil and awaited dessert with the tiny amount of space remaining in our digestive systems.
A small plant pot filled with chocolate “Mouse” wore a layer of edible “soil” with a few shoots of cress reaching from it and a slightly redundant jelly snake recumbent around the rim. Crunching through the wonderful topping and letting the light mous(s)e dissolve in the mouth left a chocolate pebble sat in the bottom of the pot, handily plugging the hole in the base! The price on all this? Twenty quid. One of the nicest parts was even still to come the following day: the leftover pork made a fantastic sandwich! Ridiculously cheap and in a fantastic venue, I can’t recommend enough getting yourself to one of these nights. It really is a cracker, whether you’re called Jack or not.
29
the Deramore Arms Main St., Heslington. By The Puboholic.
What’s is good for?
What’s on the bar?
A great place for a hearty meal with a pint after a walk.
The Deramore focuses on local produce, so the bar is full of Yorkshire breweries, most notable are Leeds and Rudgate alongside their in-house nano-brewery Four Thornes. There were also offerings from further afield, Hackney’s Five Point Pale was on draught with Stowford Press, Aspall’s, San Miguel, the usual lagers and Guinness completing the range. All round plenty of choice across the board.
Where is it? Dominated by the ever expanding University of York it’s easy to forget that Heslington village is there at all. Arriving bang in the middle of the summer break through the deserted campus I certainly wasn’t expecting a bustling bar with locals inside and out, MAMILs (Middle Age Men In Lycra) not so fresh from their cycling trip, and families tucking into their roast dinner. Transport links are good, there is a massive car park out the back which bisects the beer garden where there are numerous bike racks to chain up your expensive road bike, or more likely if you are like me the rusty commuter bike you found third-hand on freecycle. Alternatively you could jump on the #4 bus from town and wander up through the village.
What’s it all about? The Deramore is a large pub with four recently renovated rooms knocked through to create a bright open space around a central bar. Light streams in from windows on all sides, with industrial bare bulbs hang above the bar illuminating the array of drinks available. Bookshelves are stuffed with old penguin classics and board game favourites, 60s soul music wafts around the bar at that volume which tempts you to sing-along until you realise it’s quiet enough that everyone can hear you. As with most refurbished pubs the walls have a scattering of old photographs of the local area, a trend I’m very much enjoying, someone out there obviously has a thriving but niche business in old photos of village greens. 30
Do they serve food? Our meal was excellent. We went for Sunday lunch and I was pleased to see that it was available from 12:00 to 20:00 which is far later than many pubs will cater until on a Sunday. I look forward to trying the full menu on other nights.
Is it accessible / allow kids / dogs? All of the above, ramps where there were once steps, loads of space for kids and dogs inside and out, the Deramore Arms has purposefully opened its doors to all.
Will you go again? The Deramore is one of those pubs you wish was closer to home so you could call it your local, either that or lucky enough it’s far enough away you don’t spend all your money there. A resounding yes.
Opening Hours Mon - Sat 11:00 - 23:00 Sun 11:00 - 22:30
golden ball Cromwell Road, Bishophill. By The Puboholic.
What’s it good for?
What’s on the bar?
Community owned local. Great beer, nice beer garden, and fresh bread and eggs.
I tend towards the regular Yorkshire Sparkle from Trebrom Brewery in the Golden Ball but they also have Timothy Taylors Golden Best and Everards Tiger on as regulars. There are also 4 spots for guest ales and they are all kept in spectacular condition.
Where is it? Nestled in the heart of Bishophill opposite the community garden The Golden Ball is a short walk from Victoria Bar on the city walls and both Ouse Bridge and Skeldergate Bridge and is in striking distance of the bustling Bishopthorpe Road.
What’s it all about? In one word, community. Yes, the Golden Ball is owned by a co-operative of locals who now run their own pub and is rightly held up as an example of how this can be achieved, but The Golden Ball has also lived up to its promise. It provides a community space that has hosted birthdays and weddings, art exhibitions and clothes swaps, and live music and spoken word nights. The Golden Ball is another member in York’s burgeoning bar billiards league and has a free table in one of the three main rooms. There is a ‘garden room’ with fireplace and comfortable seating and the main bar room sparks a projector into stuttering life for international rugby matches. There is also a tiny snug room tucked in beside the bar but you’ll struggle to grab a spot in there as it’s almost always occupied. There is a beer garden out the back with a large covered and heated area next to the pub. The garden is also home to the outside toilets, a common feature in this neck of the woods.
Do they serve food? There is no kitchen at the Golden Ball but I have become addicted to the chilli-honey peanuts. There are usually a few cheese-and-bread baked goods from bluebird bakery available and pork pies on the bar.
Is it accessible / allow kids / dogs? As you would look for in a community pub the Golden Ball is all three.
Will you go again? … and again, and again, and again.
Opening Hours Mon - Wed 17:00-23:30 Thu 17:00-00:00 Friday 16:00-00:00 Saturday 12:00-00:00 Sunday 12:00-23:30
31
THE SEARCH FOR YORK’S BEST
SUNDAY LUNCH
Evil Eye Stonegate, York. By The Puboholic.
Still on the hunt for York’s best Sunday Lunch we finally managed to get to Evil Eye for their Roast after a succession of failed attempts where we were either too late, or they weren’t serving them that Sunday.
charred rosemary needles littering the roast potatoes giving a powerful aroma and crunch, a big slab of pink beef dominated the plate alongside a large Yorkshire pudding, and a straightforward mix of vegetables completed a delicious and substantial roast.
What’s on offer?
What didn’t work?
Throughout the week Evil Eye serves up wonderful South East Asian dishes, including my favourite Nasi Goreng in York. On Sundays the kitchen is handed over for a traditional Sunday Roast that come in either “Regular” or “Monster” proportions. I didn’t see a menu but there was beef, lamb, pork, chicken, and nut roast options. We ordered a couple of glasses of wine and went for the Regular size beef, I’ve seen the Monster portions and knew in my hung-over state I’d struggle to finish it.
If you’re out looking for top restaurant quality with inspiring flavours or a wow-factor, this isn’t it. If you want a decent Sunday Roast that you could cook at home but you can’t be bothered with the hassle of the washing up, this is spot on. Also be aware that Evil Eye is primarily a cocktail bar so if you normally like a pint with your roast you’ll be stuck with wine, bottled lager, or one of the hundreds of cocktails on the list. I’ll recommend the Bloody Mary it’s got a real kick here!
What worked?
Is it York’s Best Sunday Lunch?
Everything about this plate screams of a home-cooked hearty roast. The flavours were simple and bold with
32
No, but I’d recommend it to anyone in a heartbeat. If you’re starving, upgrade to the Monster.
Bright Ethics Ethical Accreditation for UK Organisations Consumer interest in ethical business practice has never been greater. The public are turning towards organisations they can count on to be acting responsibly. At Bright Ethics we believe both businesses and consumers can benefit from higher ethical standards in business. We work with all sizes of organisation in both the public and private sectors to help maximise the benefits of an ethical approach to policy. Our accreditation covers the four key areas below, allowing an organisation to make clear, verifiable statements about its ethical credentials and the values behind its actions. HR
Tax
Environment
Supply Chain
Find out what Bright Ethics can do for you: email: hello@brightethics.com twitter: @brightethics brightethics.com
33
Praise
ed Ox The Durham Ox, Crayke. By Ben Thorpe.
36
I’ve already had a good moan about how hard it can be to eat out as a Coeliac sufferer, so the invitation to try a new gluten free menu just outside York at the Durham Ox in Crayke was a very welcome opportunity to reopen that debate. Venturing out of York on a Tuesday evening after borrowing transportation from a generous friend, we found it just a short hop from home on the other side of Easingwold. Crayke is a picturesque village with this pub at its centre, I’ll be looking out walking routes that could end in a pint here over the summer! Being welcomed into the friendly bar and presented with menus, I made a couple of notes that warranted further discussion. While every precaution is taken, and there are no gluten-containing ingredients on the menu, it should be noted that the kitchen does work with gluten-containing ingredients, so there remains a minor risk of cross contamination. That’s the kind of comment that’s hard to judge how to take without knowing the lengths that the owners feel reasonable. Still, let’s check the food out and come back to that later.
I started with a beef carpaccio dressed with celeriac and shavings of parmesan, while my companion tried the prawn cocktail. The celeriac was the most notable flavour in the dish, perhaps to the beef ’s detriment, but wasn’t overpoweringly dressed. So often dressings like this are lip-swallowingly tarte, but here the softness of the beef was complemented nicely, strong parmesan interspersed amongst the textures. The prawn cocktail sat on a bed of finely shredded lettuce and was complemented by a trio of roasted baby tomatoes. Another well-flavoured sauce had a nice tang of tomato to the prawns. This is a difficult dish to really make exceptional, but this was a more than respectable stab at it - crunching lettuce, tangy sauce and soft prawns and a good balance of quantity and flavour. We were also given gluten-free bread on the side which was perhaps a touch bland - though in mitigation, I’ve eaten much worse gluten-free bread - but as it was livened up with tapenade to give a little more heft, it was more than acceptable.
37
38
Next up we got stuck into our mains of lamb rump and eggs Benedict. Lamb can be a bit of a balancing act between rare and undercooked, so it was a relief to find it still moist but no longer requiring butchery. Roast new potatoes soaked up the well-restrained jus. The chargrilled veg on which the lamb was perched weren’t quite such a success; they were charred without being burned but losing some texture after sitting in the jus. Still, a wellexecuted dish full of flavour.
“The amount of detail in the reply speaks well of the restaurant’s understanding of the issue.” The Eggs Benedict gave up big, runny yolks over crispy bacon with a smothering of Hollandaise (rather predictably I guess) that, in the words of my companion, was “the winning part of the course”. The gluten-free muffin was maybe a touch denser than normal, but acceptable given it was still there (often the casualty of making a meal glutenfree) and given the absence of gluten.
I gave up at this point, but my companion struggled onward to a dessert of hot cherries, accompanied by cherry ice cream and mousse. I’m reliably informed that this was an unusual dish that made an interesting fruit-based sweet option that was something other than a fruit salad. When pushed for criticism, I gather that a larger chocolate element would have helped, though I suspect that’s a point the commenter would make about most things in her life! So having established the food is worth it, what about those cross-contamination issues? I’d intended to discuss it with the chef on the evening, but being a busy service I didn’t feel it fair to start demanding information, so I’ve been in correspondence since then. The amount of detail in the reply speaks well of the restaurant’s understanding of the issue. If the response had been short enough to include here, it wouldn’t have been as reassuring! Perhaps another step to give even further reassurance would be to aim for Coeliac Society accreditation. We had a lovely meal with friendly service and the concerns I had about cross- contamination were answered openly and with apparently knowledge of the subject. I’d certainly call that a success!
39
RECIPES
40
Illustration: James Osborn. 41
Hazelnut and Teff gluten free biscuits
As a York based cook interested in trying new flavours, I sometimes find it frustrating when sourcing unusual ingredients close to home. Whilst I could jump online it matters to me that my habits support local traders and I am always encouraged when I find something on the doorstep. So, after reading about a new food trend for Teff flour I was pleased to find it in York health food store Alligator Wholefoods. At the counter a conversation around some of the ethical issues in sourcing Teff ensued, leaving me curious to learn more.
By Claire Davies Research tells that this ancient grain is highly nutritious and native to Ethiopia. It is extremely high in protein and calcium and gluten free. As a crop it can survive the driest of summers and adapt to sudden onset of floods. These factors make it ideal in a country struggling with poverty and malnutrition despite a growing economy. The main use for Teff is the unleavened bread Injera. On top of its nutritional value Injera is a valued part of Gursha, a food sharing ritual intrinsic to Ethiopian culture. The Ethiopian government are keen to protect this vital food stuff and placed an export ban on the whole grain in 2006, only allowing shipment of processed products such as the ready-made Injera. This has led to areas from India to North America to start growing Teff for themselves in order to satisfy demand from health conscious consumers. Why is Ethiopia not taking advantage of the Western demand for this gluten free super food? We can look to Peru and quinoa to understand the concerns of the both the Ethiopian government and UN regarding Teff exports. High sales of quinoa resulted in
malnutrition and conflict as subsistence farmers turned over other crops to grow quinoa and kept nothing for themselves. Should the Ethiopian government reach their target of doubling Teff production this year - the UN advises that governments still need to support small producers in a world of larger traders and competing profit margins. My research into Teff has certainly made me think more carefully about sourcing food stuffs from developing countries. The next food trend here in York could be a vital element elsewhere and Teff is an excellent example of how we can more conscious about the impact of our daily shop. Returning to the bag of flour sat on my kitchen table and Teff has a light, toasty flavour reminiscent of cocoa and hazelnuts. It matches wonderfully with a cup of tea and in recognition of this ancient and important grain, I have developed a super easy gluten free treat for you to try. The biscuits are wonderfully short and not too sweet. You could choose to ring the changes by adding in a few cocoa nibs, or maybe dipping the finished shortbread into a little dark chocolate before serving.
Makes at least 12 biscuits.
Ingredients: 175g Teff flour 1 ½ tablespoon baking powder Pinch of salt 50g ground roasted hazelnuts 50g light brown sugar 150g butter or margarine
Method: 1. Preheat oven to 180ÂşC. 2. Mix the dry ingredients in a large mixing bowl and rub in the butter to the texture of fine breadcrumbs. Gently bring together to form a dough. If the mixture is too dry add a drop of water. 3. Cover your work surface with a large sheet of greaseproof paper. Place the dough on the paper and roll out thinly. Cut out small biscuit shapes and place on a non-stick baking tray. 4. Bake for 15 minutes until lightly browned. Leave on the baking tray to cool as they are very fragile when hot!
One Pot Slow Cooked
Mushroom Stroganoff w By Catrin Podgorski.
Ingredients: 400g button mushrooms, quartered 200g chanterelle mushrooms 1 medium red onion 2 garlic cloves, minced 250ml vegetable stock 1tsp. paprika 1tsp. mixed herbs ½ tsp. chilli powder 1 tbsp. of soured cream – for a dairy free option make your own soured coconut cream. Salt and black pepper to taste Chopped fresh parsley to top Brown, wild rice to serve
44
This recipe is not only incredibly quick and easy, but full of flavour, and low-cost too. It’s a crowd-pleaser in my house, and guaranteed to impress guests, served with white wine and brown rice. For an even quicker recipe, substitute the slow cooker for a large pan and cook on a medium heat for 15 minutes until the mushrooms are cooked and have reduced to half the volume. I personally prefer slow cooking as the flavours become richer and more wholesome, but sometimes you need a quick fix to do the job. Luckily this recipe works both ways!
with Soured Coconut Cream Method: 1. Preheat the oven to 180ºC
3. Put the slow cooker on a high heat for 4 hours, reducing to a low heat for the final 30 minutes.
2. Dice the red onion and quarter the mushrooms, and add these to the slow cooker with boiling vegetable stock. Add the spices and herbs with the garlic cloves and stir it all together. Don’t worry if the liquid doesn’t look very much – the mushrooms will reduce and produce their own juices, adding to the flavour as they cook.
4. Cook the rice, or other carb of your choice, to serve. Meanwhile, let the mixture cool slightly and add the sour cream. Be careful to not to let the cream separate, so stir regularly. If you would like a thicker sauce, either heat again to reduce the liquid, or add 1tsp of cornflour. Serve with a crisp, white wine.
Soured Coconut Cream
Method:
This makes a great dairy-free substitute for soured cream, and is just as creamy and tangy as the dairy version. This recipe makes enough for approximately 6 servings, and is best used fresh.
1. The night before you need the cream, refrigerate the coconut milk.You can do this on the day, but allow at least 3 hours of chilling time.
Ingredients:
2. Take the can from the fridge, and scoop the cream from the top of the can into a separate container.
1 can of full fat coconut milk 2tsp. of fresh lemon juice, or apple cider vinegar
3. Whisk the lemon juice or cider vinegar with the cream until it’s well combined, and add more curdling ingredient depending on how sour you want it. 4. Stirring occasionally, you can keep this cream in the fridge for up to a week.
45
The Kitchen Staff:
Contact:
(“What’s your dessert of choice? Espresso and cheese, the only way to finish a meal). yorkonafork.com
If you are a writer, photographer or illustrator and want to work with York on a Fork, we’d love to hear from you. Please email Ben, ben@benthorpe.co.uk.
Beth Vincent – Deputy Editor
Advertising:
(…My late grandmother’s chocolate cake!). audacityoffood.co.uk
If you are interested in supporting this magazine by advertising with us, email grace@coffeeyard.media
Ben Thorpe – Editor
Grace Neal – Art Director (…Rhubarb crumble, drowning in custard). grace@coffeeyard.media @grace_neal
Featured contributors this issue: Marc Foster
Is co-host of Dude and a Monkey Film Podcast/Chief writer and editor of towatchpile. co.uk, Quizmaster at Picturehouse City Screen York and a freelance film writer. @dudeofozz dudeandamonkey.libsyn.com.
Loren Harrison Loren Harrison is an Illustrator with a passion for food imagery. As well as the lovely pair of red onions she opens this issue with, Loren designed the branding for Chinese restaurant Nudel. Loren gained her BA (Hons) Illustration at the University of Cumbria and now lives in Falkirk, Scotland. lorenharrison.co.uk
York on a Fork Issue Four is out 1st September 2015, in print and online.
Cheers! York on a Fork would like to thank Claire Davies, Marc Foster, Loren Harrison, Jim Helsby, One&Other, James Osborn, The Puboholic, Catrin Podgorski, all our readers and advertisers without whom, York on a Fork wouldn’t happen. Ben: Thanks for the first time to my new wife, without whom none of this would have started, and to the irrepressible Bethan and Grace - this publication’s real stars! As always the independent business owners of York are the stars of the piece. Thank you for giving colour and excitement to our city! Beth: I would firstly like to thank Ben and Grace for allowing me to be part of York on a Fork! It’s been an exciting several months and I can’t wait to see what we do in the future. I would secondly like to thank Des for putting up with my culinary exploits (and failures!) Grace: Thank you Rue B York, Joe Abell, Ben & Tam, Bethan & Des. Congratulations to Ben and Tamsin, who tied the knot on April 11th, and put on a wedding feast fit for a food magazine editor.
46 46
Report from north of the ring road:
Haxby & Wigginton Scarecrow Festival
While the rest of you were watching Wiggo on a bike, one of us was in Wigginton scaring crows with the locals. Here are a few favourites with variable food themes. And a few others which were too splendid not to share.
…while Mary Berry baked (obviously).
Paddington had marmalade…
We learned about Peanut Butter Jelly Time.
Fairtrade’s volunteer couldn’t make it, so sent in a stunt double… The Minions ate bananas…
Mary Berry was a popular choice of scarecrow personality. Just saying.
We encountered Alien…
…and Godzilla.
The trail took us further than anticipated. 47