Yorkshire Volume 2 Gritstone Ilkley to Widdop
THE SOUTH-WESTERN SECTOR
James Ibbertson on The Wall of Horrors (E3 6a), Almscliff. Photo: Mike Hutton
Yorkshire Mountaineering Club Definitive Climbing Guides
THE NORTH-EASTERN SECTOR 01 02 03 04 05 06 07
Almscliff Caley & The Chevin Brimham & Outlying Crags Great Wolfrey to Eavestone Barden Fell to Hunter’s Stones Slipstones Area Hetchell & Outlying Crags
01 02 03 04 05 06 07
Ilkley Barden Moor (Crookrise, Rylstone and more) Widdop & the Calderdale Crags Earl Crag & Surrounding Area Shipley Glen & Baildon Bank Woodhouse Scar & the Kirklees Crags Pen-y-ghent & Sharphaw
An inspirational and definitive guide to the gritstone routes and bouldering of this corner of Yorkshire. Featuring: • Over 75 Yorkshire Gritstone crags like you’ve never seen them before • 2100 routes from Moderate to E9 • 2900 boulder problems from Font 1 to Font 8b • Over 180 full-colour action photographs • Detailed access maps and aerial photographs • 6 bouldering circuits featuring classic problems, unsung gems and unusual challenges • Exclusive profiles of the climbers who shaped the Yorkshire Grit scene, from Jerry Peel and Ron Fawcett to John Dunne and Jordan Buys
Yorkshire Gritstone
Volume 1 From Almscliff to Slipstones
Volume 2 Ilkley to Widdop
Yorkshire Gritstone
Yorkshire Mountaineering Club Definitive Climbing Guides
Volume 2 Ilkley to Widdop Yorkshire Mountaineering Club Definitive Climbing Guides
Yorkshire Gritstone Volume 2 35.5mm Spine Guide Cover Op1 2.0.indd 1
01 Ilkley
Page 24
02 Barden Moor
Page 128
03 Widdop & Calderdale
Page 294
04 Earl Crag &
Surrounding Area Page 490
05 Shipley Glen & Baildon Bank
Page 566
06 Woodhouse Scar
& the Kirklees Crags Page 640
07 Pen-y-ghent & Sharphaw
Page 694
18/09/2014 17:36
about the book An inspirational and definitive rock climbing guidebook to the routes and bouldering of the south-western sector of Yorkshire Gritstone. Produced by the Yorkshire Mountaineering Club (www.theymc.org.uk) and compiled by a team of volunteers. Climbing areas covered by this guidebook (Volume Two of a two volume set):
01 Ilkley 02 Barden Moor (Crookrise, Rylstone and more) 03 Widdop & the Calderdale Crags 04 Earl Crag & Surrounding Area Jim Davies on Orchrist (E5 6b) at Almscliff. Page 81 05 Shipley Glen & Baildon Bank Photo: Adi Gill 06 Woodhouse Scar & the Kirkless Crags 07 Pen-y-ghent & Sharphaw
Featuring: • Over 75 Yorkshire Gritstone crags like you’ve never seen them before • Over 2100 routes from Moderate to E8 • 2900 boulder problems from Font 1 to Font 8b • Over 180 full-colour action photographs • Hundreds of full-colour photo topos • Detailed maps and aerial photographs • 6 bouldering circuits featuring classic problems, unsung gems and unusual challenges • Exclusive profiles of the climbers who shaped the Yorkshire Grit scene, from Jerry Peel and Ron Fawcett to John Dunne and Jordan Buys • Full first ascent details, climbing history and graded lists Ilkley to Widdop
buy the book Yorkshire Gritstone: Volume 2 Ilkley to Widdop is available online from Cordee within the climbing guidebook section for the North of England:
www.cordee.co.uk ISBN: 978-0-9515267-6-7
Photo: Mike Hutton
Matt Troilett teetering up Sinister Rib (E3 5b) at Ilkley. Page 36 Photo: Joe Killick
contents The YMC / Previous Guidebooks Introduction Acknowledgements Technical & Ethical Notes Access & Conservation Mountain Rescue & First Aid Visitor’s Information
8 11 12 15 20 22 23
Chapter 1: Ilkley Ilkley Windgate Nick Swastika Stones Minor Venues
24 32 112 118 123
Chapter 2: Barden Moor Crookrise Fairies Chest Deer Gallows Embsay
128 132 186 188 196
6
Eastby Halton Heights Shelter Cliff Field Boulders Rylstone Crookstones Rolling Gate
200 216 218 220 272 279
Chapter 3: Widdop & the Calderdale Crags Widdop Gorple Clattering Stones Dovestones Scout Scout Hut Blake Dean Heptonstall Mytholm Steeps & Edge The Roost Horsehold Scout
294 299 347 362 370 380 404 416 418 448 456 462
Yorkshire Gritstone
Hawk Stones / Bridestones Robin Hood Rocks Ogden Clough Minor Venues
468 478 482 487
Chapter 4: Earl Crag & Surrounding Area Earl Crag The Hitching Stone Hawkcliffe Farnhill Quarry White Crag Minor Venues
490 494 541 542 560 563 564
Chapter 5: Shipley Glen & Baildon Bank Shipley Glen Baildon Bank Gilstead Eldwick Minor Venues
566 570 597 630 636 637
Chapter 6: Woodhouse Scar & Kirklees Crags Woodhouse Scar West Vale Holmfirth Edge Honley Quarry Buckstones Edge Darby Delph Minor Venues
640 644 664 670 676 680 686 691
Chapter 7: Pen-y-ghent & Sharphaw Pen-y-ghent Sharphaw Minor Venues
694 698 705 714
History – Volume 2 Graded List –the best routes and problems Index
717 728 740
Ilkley to Widdop
7
Ilkley - Aerial Photograph
Ilkley - Cow & Calf Rocks and Rocky Valley Ilkley Moor Rocky Valley Buttresses
Backston
e Beck
Approach from the parking to Rocky Valley (via the beck) To the Pub Quarry Doris Buttress To The Cow & Calf Hotel
28
Main P
Parking
Aerial Photograph - Ilkley Windgate Nick Swastika Stones
ILKLEY TOWN
Rocky Valley Boulders
Olicana Buttress Back Quarry The Quarry
Lost Boots
Cow & Calf Boulders
The Cow
CafĂŠ and Toilets
The Calf
Hangingstone Road
ilkley by Adi Gill
OS Ref: SE 130 467 and SE 122 464
R
ising majestically over Wharfedale and the famous spa town of Ilkley, lies the gritstone bastion of the Cow and Calf rocks and the secluded edge of Rocky Valley. Along with Almscliff, across the valley, Ilkley gives Yorkshire Gritstone its worldwide significance, not only for the quality and variety of routes and boulder problems, but also for the history of the sport. The list of first ascentionists reads like a Who’s Who of British climbing: Farrar, Salisbury, Dolphin, Austin, Livesey, Fawcett and Dunne. All have been instrumental in both the development of the crag and pioneering routes at the cutting edge of climbing. Many folk will claim to have climbed at Ilkley, but this usually means the innards of the Cow and Calf quarry, maybe an excursion up A-Climb and a trip westwards to the valley to sample Flake Climb and the delights of Number Six Buttress. And there is nothing wrong with that, we may hasten to add. However, few will truly say they ‘know’ Ilkley; when you have done a tour of duty at The Pub Quarry, Lost Boots, Olicana Buttress, Back Quarry and The Rocky Valley Boulders – then you’ll start to get a measure of the place, only to realise you’ve just scratched the surface on a monumental and historic crag. Don’t expect to be alone at this popular beauty spot; the world renowned ‘Ilkla’ Moor’ is a haven for walkers and day trippers with most going no further than the pair of bovine beauties overlooking the road; so for those seeking solitude head for the isolation of Rocky Valley. Yorkshire is often referred to as God’s County and gritstone as God’s own rock, so with all that in mind, welcome to hallowed ground.
The Climbing: Ilkley comprises a mixture of quarried and natural gritstone, all of it sound, high quality and littered with virtually every form of rock architecture imaginable. Of the 278 routes on offer almost every style
32
Altitude: 250m to 300m of climbing is encountered, from every conceivable size of crack to open walls, technical arêtes, roofs and grooves, covering every spectrum of the grade from Difficult to E9. Long Chimney and the multi-pitch extravaganza of A-Climb are both splendid low-grade excursions. VS climbers will be in their element with the wholesome classics of S Crack, Walewska and Illegitimate Crack, whilst the low to mid extremists will have a field day on the fierce cracks of Wellington’, Tufted’ and Blind Valley. Perhaps most of all, Ilkley is recognised for pushing what was thought possible, in climbing terms, to a whole new level as the evolution of this great game progressed through the generations: Kestrel Crack (VS pre-1911), Gremlins Wall (E4 1953), Guillotine (E6 1975) were all at the forefront of the grade for the era and then that brings us to the stunning The New Statesman (E9 1988) and the present top of the pile Gerty Berwick (E9 2009). Whilst not appealing to hoards of boulderers like its near neighbours, Almscliff and Caley, Ilkley still rates highly for the quality of problem and variety of circuits. With about 200 problems spread across the patch the stand-out problems like Ilkley Bar Kid (Font 6b+), Ron's Traverse (Font 7a), Olicana Arête (Font 7a) and Clubber Lang (Font 7b) are up there with the best at the grade. To top it off, the perma-dry back of The Calf block provides a gritstone training board littered with fine eliminates.
Conditions and Aspect: Most of the buttresses face north to east (bar the south-facing walls of the Quarries) and are exposed to the elements, especially the wind, though this helps to provide dry rock soon after rain. Rocky Valley can be lichenous and slow to dry. Pigeons (along with droppings) sometimes have to be negotiated in areas of The Cow and Lost Boots.
Classic quarry cranking for Matt Troilett on Napoleon (VS 4c). Page 48 Photo: Joe Killick
Ilkley - The Cow
118 118
130
125
132 133
b
121
131 133 134
122
129
123 126
Ron Fawcett, Iain Edwards 1977
125 The Black and White Days E5 6b 20m H From where Mad Dogs ascends to the ledge, continue the traverse rightwards to reach the arête and the last moves of The New Statesman. Mark Radtke, Jerry Peel Autumn 1992
HHH The first of arguably the two most aesthetic lines on gritstone that testify to the high standards that are being achieved in modern British climbing today. Climb the majestic front face of The Cow by linking the shallow depressions and pockets past a crucial sharp crimp at 7m. Its grade could also be described as very highball Font 8a+. Photo on page 17.
Ryan Pasquill 10th January 2009 F
60
d
127
2. 6a. Traverse the ledge back left and ascend the crack to the top break where an almighty reach brings a shallow dish to hand at the top. (10m).
126 Gerty Berwick E9 7b 20m
c
127 The New Statesman E9 7a 20m
HHH Like a noble edifice towering over the valley, the imposing right arête of The Cow is steadily becoming a modern rite of passage. But, with the number of ascents almost into double figures after almost three decades, its uncompromising difficulty is standing the test of time. The first protection arrives after the crux adding to the seriousness of the line. Begin on the chipped letters on the front face and gain the dinner plate on the arête. An early first crux reaches a standing position right of the arête, then the hard work begins: to latch the semi-jug on the front face. Now stay on the left all the way, linking the shallow depressions on your path to gritstone stardom. Photo on page 62.
John Dunne October 1987 F
(b) The Lizard King (E9 7a): running short of pumpy E9s to fit the bill? Why not try linking the crux of ‘Statesman into the easier upper reaches of Gerty Berwick before finishing the journey up Mad Dogs. Jacob Cook 8th March 2014
Yorkshire Gritstone
The Cow - Ilkley 128 Alan B’Stard Font 7a+ Turn the corner onto the right-wing of The Cow and embark on a much overlooked problem which is the sit-down start to Milky Way. Clamp the shield and slap up and right to the good side-pull. Unleash a throw for the high edge and progress to the round pocket.
132
130
135
129 Milky Way E6 6b 18m
HHH The unrelenting peg-scarred crack is strenuous beyond belief but is, nevertheless, a climb of the utmost quality. Undercuts and pockets guide the way into the lacticinducing finger-locks of the thin crack. If you make it as far as the roof, a brief respite may be possible before the final push. The crack now widens, albeit insufficiently, to provide a fitting climax through the roof to reach the top. “Well done arms you deserve a medal” (taken from Fawcett’s description of his first ascent).
131
134
129
128
Ron Fawcett 1978 F
130 Mars Bar E6 6c 18m
134 Fast Forward E6 6c 18m
HHH An uncompromising direct finish to The Marine’ through the groove with the sloping finish. Burly moves on undercuts merge seamlessly into a subtle climax. A compact and captivating line.
Blast up Milky Way to the first peg and trend left up a short, blind flake to join the upper reaches of The New Statesman. Ben Bransby 10th April 1999
131 Galaxy E6 6b 21m
John Dunne May 1998
H
From the good layaway 5m up Milky Way, reach pockets out right and awkwardly gain entry into the hanging scoop. Trend back left under the roof to finish as for Milky Way. Jerry Peel 1987
132 Outspan E6 6c 22m The true direct finish to Galaxy is climbed via a dynamic slap from the undercut arch to the top break. Finish left, up the crack. John Dunne 3rd April 1999
133 The Marine Who Slept In E5 6a 15m HH Commitment from the word go. From the perch up the gully, bridge across into the hanging groove where a single wire provides the only protection. A big span brings good edges within reach on the wall and ultimately to the horizontal breaks of Hand Jive, from where an exit right is made.
135 Hand Jive E2 5c 20m
H The forearm workout from hell. Sprint across the top break (from right-to-left), along the face, to finally reach the finish of Ferdinand. Those wanting more can continue past the A Climb ledge and finish up Cow Rib for a real adventure.
Ron Fawcett, Chris Gibb 1974 F
The green, narrow buttress to the right contains a variety of problems. The hard, shallow-pocketed wall on the left is (c) Sentinel Wall (Font 7a / E4 6c); (d) The Sentinel (VD 3b), starts up the arête then moves left into the central groove; harder variations are possible. All climbs hereabouts are unpopular due to the block’s lichenous coat.
Jerry Peel 1987
Ilkley to Widdop
61
Who could resist the lure of such photogenic rock architecture? Adi Gill grabs an evening session on the back of The Calf. Page 65. Photo: Pete Wilkinson
69
Ilkley - Number One Buttress Number One Buttress The large, quarter-pipe slab is the first chunk of grit to greet you. The magnificent crack of Beeline guards its right-hand flank.
1 Cooper’s Slab VD 8m 1
Access the concaved slab from the left-hand corner and pad gingerly up its centre or right-hand edge. Don’t expect to find any protection.
2
Reg Cooper, Winston Farrar, Gordon Daley 6th May 1931
2 Private Line E3 6a 11m 3
Start up Beeline then follow the leftward-leaning crescent to the arête and the finish of Cooper’s Slab. John Dunne, Adi Gill, Andy Jack 27th June 1999
Arifa Chakera reaching the bold upper section of The Strid (HS 4b). Page 82 Photo: Mike Hutton
Number One Buttress - Ilkley
7 b
a 8 6
2
5 3
4
3 Beeline HVS 5a 11m
HHH For those proficient in jamming, this climb presents one of Ilkley’s finest outings. For those who aren’t, be prepared for a real struggle. The steep start soon gives way to the main event. Sink your hands in deep and relish the line. A Dolphin masterstroke. Photo on page 88.
6 Little ‘A’ Climb HS 4b 10m
Arthur Dolphin (solo) 1948
The continuation of the crack direct on Little ‘A’ Climb.
4 Beyond the Fringe E5 6a 12m
HH A great line offering two distinct technical sequences, both of them just prior to the sanctuary of good gear. Pull shapes up the wall to reach the horizontal break before tackling the bold groove above. Side-runners were used on the first ascent but that would now reduce the E grade and certainly detract from the route. Photo on page 92.
The short crack is followed to a step left onto the ledge and a finish up the steep crack above. Walter Greenwood pre-1911
7 Herbaceous Border Variation VS 4c 10m Arthur Dolphin, Robert Heap 20th August 1943
8 Dot’s Cracks S 4a 9m The short little crack on the right-hand end of the buttress. (a) is the vegetated corner (S), whilst (b) is the steep, break-strewn wall to a committing finish (HS 4c). pre-1958
Pete Livesey, Gill Lawrence 1975
5 Wiseguys E7 6c 10m H Teetering terror. Fathom a way up the bulging wall, through the vague break, to reach side-pulls out left and eventually the ledge above. Exit out right. Matt Goode 12th September 2000
The sandstone walls of the quarry are an excellent training ground and clubs as far away as Giggleswick come here. The Peak and Pennines, W.A. Poucher. 1966.
81
crookrise
by Dave Sutcliffe and Adi Gill OS Ref: SD 987 557
Altitude: 380m
C
rookrise, a real firecracker of a crag and arguably the finest moorland grit edge in the county. Brimming with class lines through to E8 along with sought-after bouldering through to Font 8a make it a premier venue to warm the cockles of the coldest gritstone heart. The quaint drive from Embsay village, the reservoir parking with the little dinghies bobbing nonchalantly on the water, a pleasant stroll across the dam; the crag, hidden from view throughout the amble up the hill. Ah, so civilised, so British. Then boom! Punch and counterpunch of quality hit like an express train as the edge and hillside blocks are revealed. Crookrise is celebrated for the impressive wealth and variety of climbing on offer, jam-packed into what is only 200m of edge which, for the most part, is on the friendly side of vertical. It’s a great slab climbing venue with enough delicate classics at VS and above to pit one’s wits against, not to mention the committing face climbs on its soaring walls and the fistful of mighty fine mid-grade cracks. Monster blocks with names such as Everest and Ruffian tell you all you need to know about the magnitude and measure of the bouldering here. Smaller boulders, on the fringes of the edge and the plantation below the crag, provide superb sport, catering for all tastes of rock architecture. Crookrise feels like the friendliest in the bunch of mighty and minor venues on both of the Barden moors, but this is somewhat of an illusion. Bathed in sunlight, along with the crag’s idyllic position, just means the icy terror of that big run-out isn’t as cold as other venues. It’s famous for Fawcett, that should be reason enough to get you, your rack, rope, pad and pals up here and get stuck in. So, make the trip, light the blue touch paper and stand well back.
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The Climbing: A reliable crag, blessed with clean, sublime rock, shaped into over 250 routes and problems through the grade spectrum. Lines follow every angle of face, crack, rib and roof, with plenty of crimps, slopers and pebbles to guide the way. Slabmeisters will be like kids in the proverbial sweet shop but these challenges tend to be bold. Long Climb (MVS 4b), a legacy from the 1920s, is perhaps the best crack of its grade in Yorkshire but unsurprisingly the best stuff came from the Master and his Yorkshire contemporary during a spell of a couple of years in the 1950s; they left the crag with Hovis and Small Brown (both Joe Brown), The Sole and The Shelf (both Allan Austin), the timeless classics that have drawn the crowds ever since. Today’s bouldering generation owe a debt of gratitude to the forest fire of 1960 that took out a chunk of the plantation below the crag to reveal some total classics and highball wonders. Before the embers had gone cold, a new fire (figuratively speaking) was started. The spark was well and truly lit with the likes of Austin devouring plum lines on the newly-revealed blocks, The Ruffian (Font 6a), being the best from those emerging from the ashes. Fawcett fanned the flames through the 1970s with his bold cracks (Ron’s Crack I (Font 6c) and Ron’s Crack II (Font 7a+), and by the time Jason’s Roof fell to Myers (Font 8a, 1996), a raging inferno had consumed the boulders to leave class problems through the grades in addition to cementing Crookrise as a leading light in the moorland scene. Is this development extinguished? Far from it. Sole Fusion (Font 8a, 2012) proves that the crag still burns bright in the eye of the boulderer and offers a circuit of variety and challenge befit of Fontainebleau itself.
Yorkshire Gritstone
Ian Vickers steps forth onto the eponymous feature of The Shelf (E2 5b). Page 161 Photo: Joe Killick
Crookrise - The Main Crag The Main Crag
37 Pebble-dash Yer Toilet E2 5c 7m
Hovis / Slingsby’s Pinnacle A further 25m on and you’ll reach the Hovis area, a crucible of quality be it route or problem and most folk’s furthest forays along the edge. Many of the crag’s most stunning lines can be found here. High and intimidating, most of the climbs have a bold feel about them and the Crookrise uninitiated may find them good value for the grade. The best descent is via the jumble of boulders to the north (left when facing the crag) of Breaking Out.
The upper rib above Crease Arête is climbed using the flake on the left side. David Williams, L Pickering, Rob Wilks 1992
38 Crease HVS 5a 11m
HH A good value, old-school VS that finally gets its comeuppance. Ascend the gully then follow pockets rightward, well onto the main face. From the last pocket launch up the centre of the wall to a rippling finish.
George Walker 1952
34 Breaking Out E2 5c 6m Worrying. Bust out right to mantel onto the ledge. Prepare for an awkward finish. Richard Davies 1985
39 Crease Arête E2 6a 9m H Stay true all the way up the right-hand side of the left arête. Cam protection in the upper reaches will ease your worries. Phillipe Osborne 1997
35 Streaklet E3 6b 7m A direct and much harder start to Breaking Out. Start above the nasty little block and make a hard move to gain the break (Font 6b+ if you escape here). Finish direct. Graham Desroy 1988
(a) Climbing up and rightward from the start of Streaklet, sampling wholesome pockets enroute, is Font 5. (b) A traverse of this buttress at half-height is a bold Font 6b.
36 Rushlight S 4a 7m The steady slab, climbed in its centre. The rib out left provides a variant at MVS 4b. Norman Elliott 1966
40 Un Grande Baguette Font 7b A monster challenge taking the low traverse of both buttresses, crossing many impressive routes along the way. You may finish your journey up Hovis if you’re lucky enough to reach it.
41 Crease Direct E1 6a 9m
HHH Pure enjoyment from the word go and certainly a ‘must do’ of the crag. Various methods exist but all are centred around your stemming prowess. Once the breaks are reached your elation may tempt you off to the left for the Font 6a claim, and why not? But summon the courage and join the parent route for a fitting finale.
Allan Austin 1957
42 The Fly Font 7b+ Fawcett’s beast of a problem stops many dead in their tracks. Subtle power, good conditions and the technical knowledge of a gritstone master may reap the rewards of this beautiful slab with its shallow depressions. Either top-out or traverse off.
34
Ron Fawcett 1979
a b
35 36
43 Chimney Buttress HS 4b 12m H The dark fissure of Slingsby’s Chimney is ascended until a branch out left can be made at 3m. Journey diagonally leftwards along the easiest path. Yorkshire Gritstone Club 1923
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Yorkshire Gritstone
Small Brown - Crookrise
38
37
44 43 49
50
46 47 38
51
45 40 39 41
42
48 c
44 Premium White E1 5b 10m H Follow Chimney Buttress then continue up the rib to the ledge at 5m. Climb straight up the blunt arête to the top. Bob Larkin (solo) 1997
d
47 Massive Attack E5 6b 9m
HH Bring your big arms along for the ride. Grab an arête with each hand and slap and squeeze all the way up the bookend of the block. Taxing to say the least.
Derek Hargreaves (solo) 1996
45 Fear No Evil E2 5c 12m The slab which forms the back wall of the inner chimney. Climb to ledges halfway up the chimney and head into the darkness. Step off the end of the block and climb the slab direct on slopers. Finish left of the small roof. No bridging.
48 Small Brown E4 6b 9m
HH The grade feels irrelevant so love it or hate it just dive in and squirm your way up this historical passage.
HHH Two great gritstone gods finally unlocked the arête of this buttress to create a mid-extreme route to rival anything else on the moor. The rope tension used by Brown to reach the shallow groove was negated by Fawcett to leave a superb prize. Both methods (using both of the lower arêtes or just the right-hand one) are now possible free but still require a cool head, especially once the intricate niche is reached.
Cecil Slingsby c1864 F
Joe Brown 1958; Ron Fawcett (FFA) 1973
Derek Hargreaves (solo) 1996
46 Slingsby’s Chimney HVD 4a 10m
Ilkley to Widdop
149
rylstone
by Adi Gill, Nigel Baker and Dave Sutcliffe OS Ref: SE 983 576
Altitude: 400m
n ethereal beauty of a crag, full of atmosphere and power and the last major grit guardian to stand defiant against the encroaching limestone armies to the north. Rylstone is not one crag per-se but more a constellation of wonderful buttresses and pinnacles scattered along a mile of Barden Moor’s edge, flanked by the Cracoe War Memorial on the left and the prominent cross to the right.
years, particularly the big blocks of the Far Group. In recent times the crag’s seen increasing interest from boulderers flocking to sample the delights of the boulderfield at the flanks of the crag and littered between the buttresses. As well as good problems through the grades, the crag plays host to some of the hardest offerings around, including the headline grabbing Lanny Basham (Font 8a+).
The Climbing: Rylstone is a special place. Many Tyke
Conditions and Aspect: This predominantly north-west facing edge gives a cold and windy aspect, fully open to all the elements so expect damp and green faces during the winter months especially on the routes below the ridge line. The boulders lying on top of the ridge, however, see much more sun giving year round climbing with great conditions found even on the warmest summer days. Away from the classic lines, some routes can be a tad scrittly so this is possibly not a place to start your solo career.
A
climbers herald it as their favourite moorland venue; strange really, for it is north-facing and, for the bulk of the darker months here, can be a savage and hostile place with no physical or spiritual warmth found in its open faces, nooks or crannies. Well, perhaps it’s down to the multitudes of folk who will claim they started their career in the vertical at this very crag, ascending two of the finest low-grade slab climbs this country has to offer (President’s Slab and Dental Slab). Or maybe the E1 climber remembers the first time they hauled their battered, breathless and wretched body over the top of Monument Crack (a classic of its genre) leaving a trail of expletives, nerve and sinew behind in that perfect, crag-splitting fissure. Or, just maybe it’s far simpler; that on one of those summer visits, when the sky was blue and the sun’s rays set the crag alight and something strangely warmed their hearts, they remembered what doing this odd game really is all about. Well, whatever the reason, Rylstone is magical and a trip here will live long in the memory. It is a crag of abundant riches where it is possible to combine several areas in a single visit or simply camp out beneath one buttress for the day and still not exhaust all that particular spot has to offer. Pad or rack? The above-average walk-in means you should choose your weapon wisely. Rylstone has been a top-class highball venue for donkey’s
220
Parking and Approach: Follow the Skipton-Grassington road (B6265) towards Rylstone village (5 miles). Just before entering the village there is a small lay-by on the right-hand side (Parking GPS: 54.02114, -2.045903), this will take about four cars with a bit of a squeeze (no problem if everyone is going up together and coming back together). If full, go into the village and park by the duck pond or in the extensive lay-by a little further on the left. Walk back towards Skipton to a gate and walled track on the left. Follow the track for about 600m bearing right at a bend, past a small stream to another gate on the left (Barden access notice board on the right). Go through this. The track now continues steeply up and around a lonely conifer plantation and through a large gate. The track heads rightward here until it almost levels off on the moor edge. Just up from the path is Warm-up Walls (page 266), defining the right-hand side of Rylstone (30 mins, wind
Yorkshire Gritstone
Robin Nicholson soaking up the stunning moorland setting on Loiner (VS 4c). Page 242 Photo: Mike Hutton
Monument
The Far Group The Cocoa Team Special Poetry in Motion The West Face / Hispaniola Bondi Bitch
The Main Crag
(inc.Rylstone Buttress, Overhang Buttress, Dental Slab, President’s Slab)
The Cross Group / Monument Buttress
224
Rylstone - All Areas
Pancake Slab
Heartbeat City
stile
Extradition Area
Approach to most areas from the small track on left-hand side of wall. For Far Group, cross the stile and stay on the right-hand side of the wall throughout on a larger track
To Warm up / Warm Down Walls (100m) 225
Rylstone - Dental Slab 43
44 45 50
46 a
47 54
48
51 49
c
b
Dental Slab A stunning gritstone slab, home to arguably the best Severe in the Shire. The foreshortening from below masks routes that go on far longer than expected; but don’t be fearful. Just pop on your cleanest, stickiest shoes and enjoy some wonderful Cinderella moments up a simply wonderful buttress. The pointed boulder below the slab is Matterhorn Ridge (S). From the lowest point, follow the edge to the apex. Up and left of the main slab is a short area with: H Start just left of Flake Chimney. Climb the short wall to the right of the overhang then move to under the roof. A long reach finds small holds and access to the slab above. Tim Pollard, Val Pollard 16th May 2006
44 Flake Chimney VD 10m
46 Remembered VD 12m H The crack-line up the centre of the slab provides a satisfying, well-protected pitch, getting harder towards the top. An indirect (and poor) variation leads to a large block on the right then steps to reach the top, Forgotten (D). Dave and Dave Musgrove Jnr 11th April 1988 F
47 Final Filling E1 5b 9m The right edge of the slab, crossing the overlap en route.
48 Laughing Gas HVS 4c 17m
HH Butch to begin with, bold to finish; a joy. Start up the crack then bridge out until it is possible to step right onto the arête. Big cams help. A tougher link up, (a) Incisor (6a), is possible by pulling over the roof from Dental Slab.
Bob Larkin, John Reeve 5th August 1979
The chimney-cum-flake, leaning right.
49 Dental Slab S 4a 20m
pre-1950
45 Moorland Memories MVS 4b 11m The thin, lower slab and pocketed upper wall just right.
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Bob Larkin 3rd May 2000
43 Pulp Friction E2 5c 8m
Dave and Dave Musgrove Jnr 11th April 1988
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HHH A classic, and possibly one of the best Severes on Yorkshire Gritstone. Ascend the left of the slab then tentatively traverse right until you can pull up using the pockets above the bulge. Continue upward, via the easiest line, to
Yorkshire Gritstone
Dental Slab - Rylstone make an airy mantel to finish. There are variations on the original theme here and all are worth exploring as the slab really is as good as they say. Photo on page 253. Bill Bowler, Sidney and Arnold Waterfall 1935
50 Extraction HVS 5a 17m
HH A tremendous climb and a possible candidate for your first HVS lead if you can keep your head. Traverse in from the start of False Teeth to the base of the vertical crack. Ascend this, then make the uber delicate moves up the blankness above to the sanctuary of the finishing flutings. Now ululate wildly for a job well done. Photo on page 271. The (b) original start (out of keeping with the route) makes heinous moves over the lower bulge at 5c. An even more problematic start can be made further right (c) Groovy Abscess (6a).
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Tony Barley, Tony Roche, Robin Brown 1st August 1971 F
51 False Teeth VS 4c 20m H From the foot of the chimney, bridging moves gain the slab proper. Move diagonally left then climb up about 2m right of the left arête. Dave Musgrove 11th April 1988
52 V Chimney VD 14m Protection is awkward but the difficulties are low down. pre-1923
53 Persistence VS 4c 15m H The narrow buttress offers good climbing to a harrowing mantel finish. Use the crack to gain the slab and ledge (don’t be put off by the greeness). An exhilaratingly, reachy move up the left edge leads on to glory.
55 How Fast Dad E2 5c 14m Paul Wheeler, David Normanshire 3rd June 1997
56 Trowel Face HS 4b 14m H All the challenge is low down on this one. The flake-cumgroove is gained from the right then it’s steady away from there on in. There is a (5c) problem start (d) which comes in from the undercut crack on the left. Allan Austin, Brian Evans, Doug Verity June 1955
57 Chimney Slabs Route Two S 10m H Leave your rack at home for this beauty. Delicate climbing up the bold, pocketed slab. Photo on page 245.
Allan Austin, Brian Evans, Doug Verity 11th December 1955
pre-1950
54 Chockstone Chimney VD 14m H Hard to start direct but the wall to the left can be used to navigate around the worst of it. Handle the chockstones with care for they move, lots.
58 Lichen Crack VD 11m
pre-1923
Photo:Dave Simmonite
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Romp to the flake then move right, through the bulge, to finish up the right-hand side of the arête.
The name says it all. pre-1923
A steep grit extravaganza for Jordan Buys on Thirty Seconds Over Winterland (E5 6b). Page 314 Photo: Mike Hutton
widdop by Matt Troilett
OS Ref: SD 934 324
A
Altitude: 350m
captivating crag, full of emotion and power, with many adventures to be had, all against an epic backdrop.
Widdop has not had the accolades and positive press it most truly deserves; no doubt a victim of where it sits in the climbing alphabet. For well over 50 years, Widdop featured in the closing pages of the guidebooks to this area and climbers making their way through the guides of old, and their climbing careers, came here far too late. Many folk learnt the ropes at Almscliff, Brimham and Caley, hit their peak at Ilkley then started playing safe at Rylstone as they reached their twilight years. By the time they’d even realised Widdop existed, both knees had gone and it was time to take up surfing or sailing. No wonder the development of the place was so sporadic. Well let this be no more. This cauldron boils with just about all the ingredients you’d want from a crag including a wonderful anomaly: wild moorland climbing only minutes from the car.
The Climbing: The crag comprises a series of battlements lining the rim of Widdop Reservoir, all guarding access to Shuttleworth Moor (and its brother in grit, Gorple). Each buttress has a very different character, offering fantastic challenges whatever your grade or climbing bent. Majestic meanders, crunching cracks, huge blank, half-pipe slabs along with a couple of the hardest arête and wall climbs in the country. How this all came together at one venue we’ll never know but by crikey we’re glad it did. The approach is conspicuous. The crag defences see you coming and have plenty of time to prepare for your assault. This is rarely a place for the timid. Most routes
don’t give up without a fight, many of the classics being either bold, brutal or both; legend says the old P3 grade was forged here. That said, what’s on offer are some of the biggest and wildest trips available on natural grit in Yorkshire. Days can be spent on Mystery Buttress (whether you planned it that way or not) with Ordinary Route (HVD 4b) being the cream. Widdop is also home to one of the biggest chiselling travesties around (hopefully from a bygone time) that is now a cult classic, Artificial Route (VS 4c), offering E grade exposure with half the stress. E5 classics are well represented along the edge too, so if you operate at that level make sure you plan a pilgrimage here. The length of the crag is littered with pillboxes of bouldering blocks, all with under-rated class, but at the western flank, on the approach slopes to the iconic wall and arête of Purgatory Buttress, sits a boulderfield with arguably the best circuit going. The Plantation Boulders, home to half a dozen blocks, some squat, some towering, within yards of each other and with the grades to satisfy 99.9% of the climbing fraternity. Little currently for the 7c and above crowd but tons to go at below this, all top-quality and often in condition when everything else has its winter coat on. Quite simply this is one of the best crags in the book. Majestic buttresses, sublime bouldering. What more could one ask for? Well a south-facing aspect would be nice but now we’re getting greedy.
Conditions and Aspect: The gritstone is of good quality but parts of it tend to look green as the crag is mainly north-facing. Suprising shelter is available here when it’s windy elsewhere. In dry weather, Widdop offers fine climbing but expect the dreaded midge on still summer days. The plantation bouldering is a quick-drying haven.
Ilkley to Widdop
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Widdop - Introduction Approach and Access: Widdop reservoir is 6 miles east (as the crow flies) from Burnley and 5 miles northwest from Hebden Bridge. From Hebden Bridge: Head west on the A646 toward Todmorden. Negotiate the turning circle just west of the town and double back towards the centre. At the first traffic lights, take the left turn (Heptonstall Road, Fox and Goose Inn on left-hand side) up the hill toward Heptonstall village. After 0.3 miles the road forks. Take the right-hand fork signed toward Slack and Colden. Follow this road (Lee-Wood Road) for 1.3 miles to Slack Bottom, following the road around to the right. After 400m take the road on the right (signed to Widdop and Colne) which winds its way down the valley for 3.8 miles (past The Pack Horse Inn) to bring you to the Widdop Reservoir parking on the left. (Parking GPS: 53.791323, -2.096243). From Burnley: A useful reference start point is Burnley General Hospital (maybe handy later‌) on Briercliffe Road on the north-east of the town. Head north-east for 1.3 miles (Briercliffe Road changes to Burnley Road),
through Briercliffe to the crossroads with Todmorden Road (The Sun Inn on the left / Hare and Hounds across the road on the right). Go straight across onto Halifax Road and follow it for 1.8 miles until a turning on the right, Ridehalgh Lane (a small red post box is on the right, just before the turn). Follow the road for 3.8 miles and the parking is on the right just past the reservoir dam. From Nelson: Follow Halifax Road / Nelson Road south until you reach the crossroads with the The Sun Inn / Hare and Hounds pubs mentioned in the Burnley directions. Turn left and continue as above. Camping and bivvying are not tolerated as this is a water catchment area. Dogs must be kept on a lead at all times. The crag lies on the far side of the reservoir and can be reached in a few minutes by crossing the dam wall. The first few boulders are down and slightly left from Cave Buttress and reached by doubling back along the fence and wall after the main track gate (for about 50m).
Cave Buttress
Boulders 1 to 5
Parking From Hebden Bridge
Parking for Scout
Photo: Mike Hutton
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From Burnley
Mystery Buttress
Introduction - Widdop Dovestones
See main map on page 296
To Burnley
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Scout Clattering Stones
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P Widdop Res
750m
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Rid
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ha P lgh La n
Dam
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Widdop
Gorple Stones Upper Gorple
Dicken Rocks (Lower Gorple) Shooting Hut
Gorple Upper Res
P Footbridge
Footbridge
Footbridge
Overhang & Celebrity Buttresses Fever Runnel Reagan Boulder
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Scout Hut
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Pack Horse Inn
Top-Rope & Proposition Boulders
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Gorple Lower Res
Blake Dean Pinnacle
Steep Hairpin Bend
Piton Crack The Balcony
Scout hut
To Heptonstall
Purgatory Buttress
Red Rose Boulder
To Baildon
Plantation Boulders
Track to the moor / Upper Gorple
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widdop - Mystery Buttress 48
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The Corbel feature
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4th Ledge
51 41
3rd Ledge
Bull’s Horns
56 43 2nd Ledge
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40 The Links Climb HVS 5a 17m H Links three short but bold pitches, with little useful protection. Start with a high step off the large block to gain the undercut rib and first ledge. A scoop on the left leads to Demon Corner (F), a short arête, after which a crack on the right leads to the top, and relief. Allan Allsop c1940
41 Ordinary Route HVD 4b 30m
HH A fun expedition with plenty going on throughout; guaranteed to leave you popular with the bank-holiday masses if you dilly-dally on your way. Start right of the block (bridge up or ascend just right of the corner) and climb straight up to the first ledge. Make a tricky move to gain the second ledge. Ascend the slab rightwards to the third ledge, before making the infamous stomach grovel (it is possible to tiptoe lower down) that guards the way to the ‘Bull's Horns’. Take the bull by the proverbials (horns that is…) to reach another ledge (fourth). From the right side of this, make scary
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moves up and right to then finish up the steady chimney. It is also possible to make a big stretch for the top before the chimney. Alternate pitches can be arranged between ledges (not a bad option if concerned about rope drag). Herbert Hartley, Maurice Linnel c1929 F
42 Ordinary Route Variation Start HVD 4b 8m H Just right of the original start, negotiate a corner to a reach a small platform. Inch left to a crack, move awkwardly up this to make the second ledge. Continue as per the original route.
43 Birtwhistle's Crack VS 4c 9m A good test to see how your jamming skills are getting on; thankfully, there’s plenty of protection on offer throughout. Start from the second ledge of Ordinary Route. Climb the tough crack to a ledge then continue up the top groove to finish (as of The Links Climb). Arthur Birtwhistle, Allan Allsop c1939
Yorkshire Gritstone
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Wrinkled Wall - widdop 44 The Three Cs VS 4c 30m
HH By crikey, here comes a nerve shredder of the highest order. A route that brings a ‘coming of age’ in boldness for many a VS leader. The Centipede (F): boldly climb the delicate wall, over a slight bulge, to reach the second ledge. Scuttle right under the overhanging nose to the centre of Cascara Wall. Amble directly up the wall on small holds, moving left to belay on the third ledge. Wander left and up the ramp to The Corbel (F) where a committing move left leads to the easier finishing corner.
on this bold, blunt rib. A hard start (avoidable by moving in higher from the right) leads to a delicate slab before a bold step right using the two eyes to the ‘Bull's Horns.’ Finish up Ordinary Route. Photo on page 327.
45 The Flake Direct E1 5b 7m
HH A pure (and the only) addition to Widdop by the phenomenally talented Dolphin. A great line and as usual, bold and ARD. From the belay on the third ledge, strike directly to the flake. Dash up this to the top. Phew.
52 The Gully D 17m
Arthur R. Dolphin, J. Lockwood, D. Hopkins 28th June 1948 F
A bold and exciting wall just to the right of the gully. A cool head will reap rewards.
46 Krypton Route S 4a 25m
HH A grand old route, packed with flavour and offering a variety of endings. Outwit the low overhang and enjoy the delicate groove until a step left and careful slab work gains the big ledge. Explore the short wall for holds that must be there and once on the next ledge pick your finish (the best is next).
Herbert Hartley, Maurice Linnel c1929
47 The Flake MVS 4b 6m
HH Arguably the best and most beautiful way to cap off the climbing on this buttress. Traverse left, keep your head and savour the flake to the end. Photo on page 14.
48 Kryptonite Finish E3 6a 5m
HH Feeling lucky punk? If so, take the toughest line of the big buttress via the crack and groove between the finishes of The Flake Direct and The Layback. Take a large cam for the crack.
Matt Troilett, Ian Fenton 20th May 2008
49 The Layback VS 5a 5m H Nothing like a bit of bite before the final whistle. Grunt up the overhanging corner. 50 Krypton Eliminate E1 5b 19m
HH A walk in the park this is not. Those who like crimps are best to look elsewhere as much slopeyness is on offer
Allan Austin 1948
51 The Krypton Factor E1 5c 6m H The bulging wall is a fine alternative finish to the ‘Eliminate. Top-out via any of the finishing routes from the fourth ledge. John Challenger, John Cromphorn 9th Aug 1997
The chimney. A lovely outing on a calm, warm day or a wind-tunnel struggle on a cold, blustery one.
Wrinkled Wall
53 Wrinkley Arête HVS 5a 15m After an initial move to gain the small ledge, layback the edge of the crack to reach slopers. Move right to a knob of rock on the ledge (committing). Finish as for Wrinkled Wall. (a) Forgotten Crack (S 4a H), takes the lower tier of Wrinkley Arête and steps left to the wide crack above. An optional topping makes an exposed step right round the arête to finish at Wrinkled Wall. Derek Hargreaves 1986
54 Wrinkled Wall Direct VS 4b 15m H A teasing solo. Using slopers and side-pulls climb the centre of the wall to a small ledge. Trend right to finish up a small groove. pre-1951
55 Wrinkled Wall VD 3c 15m
H
Great climbing with an abundance of (biggish) protection. Start as for Oblique Crack (or from the right of the first ledge of Wrinkley Arête at 4b). Follow the dogleg crackcum-flakeline to the top. Photo on page 294 and 308. Allan Allsop, Arthur Birstwistle c1936 F
56 Oblique Crack D 15m The wide crack, slanting to the right. pre-1951
Ilkley to Widdop
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heptonstall by Matt Troilett
OS Ref: SD 985 277
Altitude: 250m
T
he best quarry in Yorkshire I kid you not! The call of Heppy weighs heavy on the heart of many. No matter where you run, all roads lead back to the Main Wall of this mighty quarry. Here lies a seemingly impenetrable facade of grit that is both mind-bending and kneetrembling in equal measure. What a fearsome reputation this place has and, it must be said, not totally undeserved. Penned in by woods behind and a towering stone face of Olympic proportions in front means those of a weak disposition may find their resolve crumble before touching rock. Those who do brave the way to daylight can be rewarded with some of the finest routes hewn by chisel and charge. Strength-sapping wall climbs abound and with more crack on offer than backstage at the Brits this really is an unmissable spot. The Main Wall is a grit masterpiece sculpted by many hands, each generation of artists adding their own flair and interpretation to this wide canvas. Here a broad stroke, there a subtle touch, all featuring somewhere on wish-lists across the nation. Of course Heptonstall is immortally linked with one route, shrouded in myth, legend and woodbines. The best crack on grit? Forked Lightning Crack (E3 5c).
The Climbing: The quarry has something for everyone at any grade and still has one of the best unclimbed walls to go in Yorkshire. There are more than 50 starred routes and many more would deserve stars on lesser crags if it wasn’t for the sheer quality on offer here. Past rock heroes have plied their trade on the cracks and faces of Heptonstall, the likes of Whillans, Livesey, Bancroft, Peel and Syrett to name but a few. The excellent fine-grained grit provides an abundance of exceptional crack climbs, quality mid-grade adventures (not much for the sub-Hard Severe leader), bold arêtes and a hand-
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ful of high-grade wall climbs. The quarry is south-west facing and is a real sun trap. It can stay dry (in parts) in heavy rain and can stay in good nick through the winter after a few days of sun. Many see Heptonstall as a one-trick pony with one overpowering wall that satisfies the enduro-bunnies, and little else. But this is to do the crag a massive disservice. Widen your gaze and you’ll find a healthy spectrum of climbs of all shapes and sizes. Hidden natural buttresses containing satisfying crack and face climbs, concealed nooks and crannies with unsung gems along with a small, yet fine, selection of bouldering at grades that will satisfy most tastes. Heptonstall bouldering? Who’d have thought it. Yes it does exist, a dozen or so problems on the natural buttresses that guard the flanks of the quarry along with a handful of technical traverses beneath the main event.
Approach and Access: The crag is known locally as Hell Hole Quarry but judging by appearances was more likely the inspiration for the walls of the Tower of Babel. It is easily accessed from the quaint and historically significant Heptonstall village. Follow the instructions from Hebden Bridge as for Widdop on page 300 but take the left fork toward Heptonstall village. Before entering the village, turn left onto Valley View Road and follow this (bearing left onto Acres Lane) until its end and the social club on the left-hand side. Park here. £1 honesty box for parking. (GPS: 53.745363, -2.020559). From Burnley turn right just after Slackbottom and head down through the village (passing the pubs and café) until you reach the right turn onto Valley View Road mentioned above. From the entrance to the car park turn left (south) and follow a walled track (behind the mast) for 70m. Stay on this clear path as it heads right (leaving the wall) for a further 120m. The Right-Hand Outcrop of the crag is immediately down to the left. For the other
Yorkshire Gritstone
Asgard, Ulvetanna, Autana and Heptonstall, it’s all about the preparation for Jason Pickles on Forked Lightning Crack (E3 5c). Page 433. Photo: Alastair Lee
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Yorkshire Gritstone
Forked Lightning Crack - Heptonstall 25 Skullduggery E3 6a 22m
wall. It gives a safe-haven and easy descent from most of the routes in this part of the crag in addition to being the start point of several lines including the Sunstroke Slab routes. Access to it is via the blocky scramble on the right-hand side.
Steve Bancroft, Tim Rhodes June 1976
29 Fork ‘n Sheet E2 5c 25m H A great finish to Bull’s Crack. From Rabbit Ledge lean over left to clip two pegs before unusual moves draw you onto, and up, the classy arête.
HH A great route, unusual for Heppy given it’s a horizontal crack and not a vertical one, and a real beast of an offering from Bancroft. Follow Strange Brew for 2m along the break. Don your Yosemite whites and tackle the roof-crack. Tests your backstroke skills to the max. Photo on page 427.
26 Forked Lightning Crack E3 5c 24m HHH Maybe the most admired and sought-after crack around, it has the Whillans stamp all over it. Take a selection of your biggest Friends. Broken ledges lead to the base of the crag-splitting crack. Easy moves lead to the in-your-face crux (getting stood in the crack) then it’s time to move through the gears and the fissure quickly before your fuel gauge hits zero. The climbing eases a touch higher up but cool and cunning is still required to gain the upper ledge. Take the corner system to finish. Photo on page 419.
Ian Farnworth, Paul Wheeler, Darren Holgate 2nd August 2005
Don Whillans 1961
The Knight Bus (E4 5c), links the top of the ‘FLC’ crack with the finish of Fairy Steps, via the break (=).
27 Midnight Lightning E5 6b 24m
H A hard route where initial easy climbing draws you into a battle with tenuous moves and hard-won gear. Climb the wall, passing a peg as you go. Hard moves rightward, and a fight with the flake enroute, will land you hopefully into the sanctuary of Bull’s Crack. Finish up this. (There is sometimes an insitu wire in the flake).
Jerry Peel, Barry Rawlinson August 1985
28 Bull’s Crack HVS 5a 25m
HHH This brute of a climb up the all-too-appealing cornercrack has all the elements of a classic. Steady climbing leads you to the small roof where an obstinate, but enticing, move will get you up and over it. Tangle with the upper crack until composure can be regained on the big (Rabbit) ledge. Either belay here, walk off, or take a deep breath and finish up the impending offwidth for the full, absorbing outing.
David Bull, John Hartley, Edwin Leggett 1959
Rabbit Ledge is a large slanting ledge easily distinguished by a large peace symbol and a rabbit painted on the back
Steve Dunning enjoying a trad fest on A Step in the Light Green (E6 6b). Page 429. Photo: Kevin Avery
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earl crag by Mark Radtke
OS Ref: SD 985 429
Altitude: 353m
A
huge statement of grit quality punctuated by the architectural quotation marks of Lund’s Tower to the east and Wainsman’s Pinnacle to the west. A conspicuous crag in more ways than one; the alpha and omega of the Yorkshire story with classic lines from the dawn of our great game through to some of the most recent hard lines laid down by the great modern protaganists, with every generation of rock star in-between leaving significant additions to this mighty fine crag. In fact, it’s rare that a crag would play host to big, classic ticks from such a wild and talented bunch over the past 70 years; Dolphin (Earl Crack), Austin (The Shothole Ridge), Wood (Trite Rib), Syrett (Earl Buttress), Manson (Early Riser), Fawcett (The Kipper Arête), Peel (Desert Island Arête), Pegg (Mind Bomb) and Buys (French Duke, Baron of Boing). It’s unlikely the story will end here.
The Climbing: The crag is extensive. A quarry defines its eastern end, but then a series of superb buttresses and boulders run westward for about a mile. The crag contains excellent routes up to 20m high and it hosts some of the best bouldering to be found in Yorkshire. Most of the longer routes occupy the central area of the crag, with the bouldering concentrated at either end, although quality problems can be found along the entire edge. 850m due south of Wainman’s pinnacle, a unique boulder called the Hitching Stone is well worth a visit for the boulderer in search of a bit of solitude and some quality problems. With over 120 routes from Diff to E9 including some of the region’s classics, Earl will appeal to beginner and expert alike. The crag has its fair share of micro-routes and highball problems and, when the friction is at its optimum, Earl can be an excellent soloing venue. It is a boulderer’s paradise with fine circuits offering subtlety and volatility in equal measure; the lower grades will delight
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those in search of mileage, whilst its hard and technical masterpieces will test both seasoned boulderer and power monsters alike. Landings are, in the main, good, but when it comes to certain highballs and solos here, many mats make height work.
Conditions and Aspect: The crag faces mainly north and from a distance can have a dark and brooding appearance. In winter some areas of the crag become a little green, but appearances can be misleading and even in the depths of winter the rock remains clean and some fine days can be had, particularly on the boulders. The exposed nature of the crag means that wind can be a double-edged sword, drying it out quickly after rain, but making it unbearable in the cold. In the heat of summer, Earl is arguably the place to head for with its welcome shade, but without doubt the best conditions are to be found on sunny spring or autumn evenings. Parking and Approach: The best approach is from Cowling village on the A6068 Cross Hills-to-Colne road. If approaching from Cross Hills the crag will be seen up on the hillside on the left. The Pinnacle and Tower are excellent landmarks. There are two parking areas which give access to each end of the crag: East End: turn onto Dick Lane (this is at the north end of the village) and follow the road up beneath the crag. A number of small lay-bys with limited parking are located at the east end of the crag below Lund Tower. (Parking GPS: 53.88422, -2.01174). This provides easy access to the quarry and main crag left-hand end (e.g. Early Riser area). Walk up the track, past the picnic tables, and the quarry is on your left. If heading for the main crag, continue on and up the steps that lead up to the tower but then head west, over open ground, to the main crag.
Yorkshire Gritstone
Pom poms are in this season for Tim Stubley on Rat Au Vin (Font 6a / E1 6a). Page 529 Photo: Mike Hutton
Earl crag - Left-Hand End
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Bad Seed
Tilted Block
Pitch at Will
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The Main Edge – Left-Hand End
The first section of Earl-proper starts inconspicuously with a handful of boulders and small walls. Moving further west the edge gathers height until it splits into two distinct tiers. There’s much to commend this area. Intoxicating lines, predominantly wall and arête climbs with little for the crack climber, along with a potent stew of classic boulder problems. Most will be drawn to Erasor Slab and the committing tier above, whilst the elite few will loiter around the Mind Bomb buttress. The astute will cast their nets wider and find many an underrated gem just waiting to reveal its secrets once again. The first small block has a prominent arête (a) facing out from the crag (Font 5+ from a sit-down start on either side) whilst 20m further down the path the sloping block with monster pockets provides warm-up material in the way of three problems, all Font 5+: (b) the nose from a
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sitter, moving right to finish; (c) the scoop just right and into the craters and finally (d) the next scoop further right. More problems and traverses can be contrived. 30m right and it starts kicking off quality-wise with the Tilted Block:
1 Cirque du Freak Font 8a+. Come on power monkeys! SDS. With left-hand on the arch-shaped undercut, right-hand pinching the arête and with feet on the back of the roof, improvise upwards. Morpho. Mark Katz April 2009 2 Hanging Wall Font 7a. Utterly ace. Font 7b from a sitter. Roger Hindle late 1980s 3 Allez Retour Font 6b. Traverse downhill and along the front. Reverse back for max pump. Mark Radtke 1990 4 Bad Seed Font 6b. The blunt front face. A dynamic approach to gain the top may help. Andy Cave mid 1990s 5 Problem Wall Font 6c. Thin, tough, excellent. The wall on small crimps. Roger Hindle late 1980s
Problem Rib
Hand Full Arête
Left-Hand Boulders
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Early Riser
Erasor Slab
New Blade
Mind Bomb - Earl crag 6 Pitch at Will Font 5 (E2 5b). The overhanging groove and bold arête. Top quality. Derek Hargreaves 1979
7 Frustration Font 6b. Make tough moves to gain the break. Traverse off rightwards. Jerry Peel mid 1980s
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8 Dean’s Arête Font 7a. The superb blunt arête with a highball feel. AKA: Greg’s Arête. Dean Eastham mid 1980s The left and right arête of the block to the right are Font 5 and Font 7a respectively.
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Mind Bomb A magnet for the modern gritstone aficionado. Brought into the new age with Dave Pegg’s visionary addition to the crag. Some bold, technical and truly memorable challenges await the talented few.
9 Contrivance Font 5. A good challenge if the large holds on the right are eliminated. Mark Radtke early 1990s 10 Old Timothy VS 4b 8m The grassy groove. Think about the 40s Master in his plimsolls onsight soloing. (e) is Zipper Gate (E2 5b). Arthur Dolphin c1940s; Roy Healey Oct 1998 (Z’Gate)
A contrived traverse, Tick Tock Man (VS 4c), is possible and provides the soloist with good mileage. From the top of Old Timothy hand-traverse right across the top of Mind Bomb and Early Riser. Continue rightwards to finish. A better alternative (at E1 5b) is to break-out right on the obvious ramp to gain the pockets and finish at the arête.
11 The Pendulum Traverse Font 5. An old Allan Austin warm up. Gain the break and traverse right to the foot of Early Riser. Pumpy. It can also be gained by three different roof problems all around the Font 6a mark. Traverse off either right or left. Allan Austin 1950s
12 Baron of Boing E8 6c 8m
HH A brilliant find of the modern generation. Start up Mind Bomb, then climb the left arête on its left side. A big move might gain a finger-edge up on the left wall. If
Hanging Groove
Cave Traverse
Trick Arête
Indicator Wall
Drop Down Trav
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you’re lucky enough to reach this you should have the ability to finish the job. Zero cams and small nuts in a slot low down on the left provide the moraleboosting protection. Photo on page 505. Jordan Buys 1st November 2010 F
13 Mind Bomb E7 6c 8m
HHH The closest thing to stone alchemy going. Gain the open groove direct then boggle your way up it to a heartracing finale. A Friend low down prevents a roll down the hillside but little else. A route to test today’s grit artist.
Dave Pegg 17th August 1989 F
14 French Duke E9 7a 8m
HHH Jordan’s masterstroke tracing a line up the right-hand side of the right arête of the Mind Bomb groove. A last great problem that impressively fell amidst windwrapped ropes and crumbling slopers. It boils down to a three or four move boulder problem in the sky with gear at half-height that may just about protect the crux sequence. A fall from the insecure finishing moves will probably land you on the deck. Go for it grit masters and look to the wall on the right; the future awaits.
Jordan Buys 1st November 2008 F
Earl’s Head
Main Crag. Left-Hand End 501
Shipley glen - Red Baron
128 127
120 121
122
123
124
125
126
Red Baron: Here we are at the most fabled section of The Glen, where pilgrimages are made and many battles are waged and lost. Bring skin, arms and the technical knowhow of 20-years in the climbing game and you’ll be just fine.
rewarding. The ever-growing crater beneath points to many a thwarted attempt, so don’t despair if you are unsuccessful for you are not alone. Swallow your pride and ask a local for help. Ken Wood 1960s
120 Omo Font 6b. The wall. Al Manson 1970s
127 Smear Font 6a. The vague groove.
121 Daz Font 6b. This lovely arête has a habit of
128 Three Moves Wall Font 4
bemusing the would-be ascentionist. Commitment is key for the final move. Al Manson 1970s Photo on page 568.
122 Off Stump Font 4+
130 Undercracker Font 6b+. Powerful.
123 Stump Crack Font 2+. A right tussle. 124 Manson’s Wall Font 6c. A crimpy, gritstone wall climb of the highest quality. Good conditions and the ability to pull hard may be of some use. Al Manson 1970s
125 Phil’s Wall Font 7a+. Bolder, thinner but on a par with its neighbour for quality. Head up using microedges and the shallow mono. Phil Davidson 1983 F
126 Vim Font 6a+. A classic problem in every sense of the word and, without doubt, one of the county’s best; technically demanding, extremely specific, yet highly
586
129 Straight Crack Font 4. This pleasant little jamcrack just loves to swallow a well-placed hand.
131 By-pass Font 5+. Awkward. Allan Austin 1950s 132 Amalgam Font 6a+. Mike Hammill 1976 133 Red Baron Font 7a+. The undercut arête is The Glen’s most illustrious problem. A testpiece, not easily won, and a magnet for many an avid boulderer. (a) Red Baron Roof (Font 7c+), is the modern desperate, which crosses the roof from the back, whilst the lip traverse in from the right is (b) Dead Baron (Font 8a), which currently tops the pile in terms of difficulty at the crag. Mike Hammill 1976; Jason Myers 1996 (RBR); Tom Peckitt 2008 (DB)
Yorkshire Gritstone
Red Baron - Shipley glen
132 130 133
131
bb 135 134 136
129
aa
134 Simian Traverse Font 5+ 135 Gangway Font 2. Careful up the ramp. 136 The Dobby Font 5
138
Below this buttress lie two large, flat boulders:
137 Longy’s Traverse Font 7a. On the boulder furthest down the hill make a left-to-right traverse of the steep face to a crux mantel/rockover at the end. Andy Long 1990s
138 JD’s Traverse Font 7c. A monster traverse on the largest boulder. Head rightwards, past a semi rest on jams, then continue all the way to the top. Seldom done so may require a good clean. John Dunne early 1990s
The next block is situated higher up and 25m to the right. 139 Mystery Arête Font 4+. The sustained arête. 140 Mystery Font 4+. A stiff pull over the small roof.
137 139
Ilkley to Widdop
140
587
Baildon bank - Joanna
a c b
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49
52 50
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55 54
47 Rawhide E5 6b 12m H With plenty of good arm-sapping, nerve-racking territory, this rarely-climbed gem deserves way more attention. Start in the pit, attack the arête (past a peg) to finish to the left.
52 Annudarufe VS 4c 15m
Andy Jack, Jason Myers 5th February 1986
Ian Clough, Geoff Grandison 1950s
Care is required to reach the fence post belay on the following seven routes due to the steep grass banking. (b) Best Forgotten (MVS 4b), is the loose corner which befits its name.
53 Arufe MVS 4c 15m
48 Twilight E1 5b 12m
54 Joanna VS 5a 15m
There’s a couple of ways over the blocky overhang with the left-hand side being the easier (the centre goes at 5a). Both then follow the crack system to the top.
The hanging corner and widening crack. An alternative start can be made on the front of the hanging buttress. Ian Clough, Geoff Grandison 1950s
HHH Eat your heart out Yosemite. Fingers-to-hands-to-fiststo-a-chimney. This all-encompassing crack fest, though difficult to start, soon develops into a memorable pitch. Photo on page 629.
Take the slab to a small ledge then boldly head over the bulge on reasonable holds. Side-runners protect. Karl Zientek, Phil Hemingway, Paul Clough 9th October 2004
49 Last Day HVS 5a 12m
Bill Turner, Iain Edwards 1973
Amble up the thin crack that splits the bulge.
55 HMS Amethyst S 4a 12m
Iain Edwards 1973
The slab in the middle to a loose finish. A bit blinkered.
HH A route of historical significance to the Bank. Climb the front face of the buttress and the arête above. (c) The corner is the same grade and called Tonup.
Jason Bowerbank, Ian Durham 1st January 2009
Arthur Dolphin c1950 F
50 Brighton Baby E1 5a 12m
51 Poison S 4a 12m
H
56 Jammy S 4b 7m
The delightful crack to a pre-placed belay dropped from above. Traffic may improve the exit.
Tackle the crack on jugs to finish as for the previous route. As steep as you get at the grade.
Ian Clough, Geoff Grandison 1950s
Ian Clough, Geoff Grandison 1950s
608
Yorkshire Gritstone
H
Set adrift on a sea of quarried grit. Dave Sutcliffe on Hergest Ridge (E4 5c). Page 601 Photo: Adi Gill
woodhouse scar by Steve Clark and Lynn Robinson
OS Ref: SE 083 235
T
Altitude: 180m
he punk kid brother of the big hitting crags: brash but with plenty to shout about. Known locally as ‘The Rocks’, Woodhouse Scar is located a mile south-west of Halifax town centre and sits just below Albert Promenade, high on the edge of the Calder valley. The outcrop extends for 300m, with buttresses of height up to 12m. It offers a fine selection of climbs and boulder problems across the grades. The splendid views, easy parking and ease of access are of clear benefit but sadly also attract some urban problems; the litter and graffiti is just an annoyance but watch carefully for broken glass.
sheltered climbing can be had in winter. The tree cover encourages lichen but most lines are quick drying and the greenest rock can be delightfully rough.
Parking and Approach: Approach from the A646 Skircoat Moor Road. Turn down Albert Promenade and park near the bollards (GPS: 53.707707, -1.876388); the rocks are just below the road. Wainhouse Tower, which lies about half a kilometre north-west, provides a fine landmark. From Halifax town centre a 25-minute walk leads south down Skircoat Road, turn right past the Infirmary and cross Savile Park. Some key landmarks will help new visitors: the seating bay 100m north of the bollards is just beyond Cave Buttress; the gap in the wall immediately south of the bollards is above Pyramid Buttress; the raised top of Spine Rock is 70m south of the bollards; the easiest descent slants north from here under the Upper Green Walls.
Rocks R
oad
The Climbing: The routes are very good from low grade to mid extreme and tend to feature steep, juggy moves or delicate slabs. The big ticks are Twin Cracks, Clingen, and Piton Route. Although often feisty and intimidating for their grade, success on these climbs reaps memorable rewards. The faces can have impressive friction and the roofs jugs, but the bedding planes finishes and well-travelled Access Issues: The crag is owned by Calderdale Council footholds often feel slippery: all leading to a surprisingly who are happy for climbing to take place but they ask level challenge. The dividing line with bouldering is more climbers to leave pruning and tree clearance to them. Visitblurred here than perhaps usual: over a hundred routes and ing heroes always bring a bag and clear some rubbish. micro-routes blend into several hundred ad problems and countless variations. The Skircoat Moor Ro A646 bouldering is excellent and away from some impressive highballs often has a friendly feel. There are problems across all Ken sing grades, styles and size, including some of ton Roa d the best low grade problems anywhere. Alb e Conditions and Aspect: South-west facing, with trees in front, the crag gives year-round climbing and bouldering, usually at its best in the afternoon and evening. Pleasant shade is readily available in the summer and sunny and
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rt P rom
ena de Ken sing eriff Bollards h ton S s P k e Sca c h Roa a T r r Bo C d p n i i L s ttom a A e B lbe k Th c Roa rt P ra C e d l rom n eag ena Pito ead N de ks Spr rac 0 100m C n i e d w T si k c Tra
Yorkshire Gritstone
The holds are big but the drop is huge. Adi Gill on Clingen (E2 5c). Page 660 Photo: Joe Killick
pen-y-ghent by Adi Gill
Altitude: 620m
OS Ref: SD 836 732
L
ike a geological trifle, the layers of deposited limestone rock that form the hill of Pen-y-ghent have resulted in the cream topping comprising the finest millstone grit. An uncompromising venue to say the least, it hugs the summit of North Yorkshire’s most famous hill and is more akin to climbing in the mountains of the Lakes than the traditional gritstone outcrops further south. Get your adventurous head on and you will be rewarded with one of those memorable days in climbing that will stay with you for many years to come.
The Climbing: A true mountain crag made from millstone grit that is rough to hand and offers superb friction. Once you have dealt with the exposure spilling away beneath your feet, you can enjoy 20 routes from Diff to E2 which are long in nature and host a variety of cracks, grooves and arêtes on mainly sound rock. Treat this as a mountain crag so any looseness, seepage or vegetation will become par for the course and will make a helmet invaluable. The climbs on most peoples’ ‘to do’ lists are the trio of outstanding classics, Red Pencil (S 4a), Red Pencil Direct (HS 4b) and Gladiator (VS 4b) though the challenge of Pitchfork Crack (HVS 5b) and Brass Monkey (HVS 5b) should not be missed.
Conditions and Aspect: Facing west and at an altitude high enough to give some a nose bleed this crag is a meteorologists dream, with sun, wind, rain and snow sometimes occuring on the same day. Though it can be climbed year-round, expect damp and seepage from autumn to spring but don't let that be a deterrent, there is no bad weather up here it just feels that way if you are poorly prepared. This crag sees significant snow and ice cover during the winter months, often leading to loose rock. Heed this warning; helmets are strongly advised. Also, the relatively limited traffic results in many routes offering a dusting of grit on most holds.
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Parking, Approach and Access: The shortest approach (45 mins) is from Dale Head on Silverdale Road (GPS: 54.138974, -2.240917). Follow the Pennine Way path north-west then north all the way to the top of Pen-yghent with the summit scramble acting as a good warm up. Cross the wall at the summit and trace it back south-west for approximately 500m. Turn right (west) and leave the wall to reach the top of the crag where a depression marks the top of the descent route (see page 697). Do not to approach the crag from the flanks or beneath and strictly no dogs allowed. An alternative approach (1 hour) can be made from the village of Horton in Ribblesdale (two pubs and a good cafe) by taking the path east from Brackenbottom which reaches the Pennine Way path on the shoulder of the hill just before the summit climb. Please check for any bird nesting restrictions on the BMC regional access database before paying a visit. Pennine Way
Pen-y-ghent 0
N
500m
The Crown PH
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Horton in Ribblesdale
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The Golden Lion
Brackenbottom
Pennine Way Cattle Grid
P Dale Head
B6479 River Ribble
Yorkshire Gritstone
Silverdale Rd
To Bai
Just don’t look down. Richard Mallinson enters the arena on Gladiator (VS 4b). Page 701 Photo: Adi Gill