CAMINO

ONE OF THE MOST COVETED EXPERIENCES that tops many a travel bucket list has to be the gorilla trek. The primates shot to prominence after Dian Fossey, fearless researcher extraordinaire, put them firmly on the map, and eco-passionate Rwandans picked up the baton and ran with it. More than 60 years later, these highly endangered creatures are cosseted natural assets, and when it comes to progressive anti-poaching policies, habitat preservation and community partnerships, the country is in pole position.

Rwanda is a nation on its green game that rewards mindful explorers with extraordinary adventures that are enough to slay even the most seasoned travellers. Today, 12 habituated gorilla families are living in the biodiverse Volcanoes National Park (VNP), while an additional four reserves showcase a luxuriant aggregation of rare and endemic species that include the Big Five. It’s no wonder then that the tourism sector in the country is bullish and expected to turn a staggering US$800 million by 2024.

Rwanda’s northwest sees high precipitation, and my trek day dawned with a steady drizzle – not the ideal conditions for gorilla sightings since they become more elusive in inclement weather. Nevertheless, we gathered at the park HQ in Kinigi to meet our guides and secure the permits, and it was reassuring to discover that only eight people at most are permitted to visit each gorilla family a day, mitigating over-tourism and animal anxiety. The most important part of the briefing session is the rules of engagement: no sudden moves, minimal eye contact, wear a mask and don’t squirrel snacks into your pocket unless you feel like fobbing off a hungry monkey’s deft digits.

Important intel out the way, our little company set off on a pilgrimage across the potato paddies and up into the reserve towards the grand prize. Soggy ground underfoot made the going tougher than usual and the porters proved to be a great support, carrying backpacks and camera bags and lending a steadying hand when needed.

A trek can take up to two hours depending on the family’s location – or if you run into a crabby water buffalo like we did and need to detour unexpectedly.

But after a little while the walkie talkies crackled, announcing the discovery of the gorilla enclave, and just like that, we were eyeing the payoff. There sat Big Ben, the magnificent Sabyinyo Silverback, enthroned in an elevated bamboo nest like a charcoal portrait, fur beaded with raindrops and his handsome, leathery face all wet and shiny. As I focused my lens, he turned slowly and looked right at me, and there was a fleeting connection. The words of biologist George Schaller resonated: “No one who looks into a gorilla’s eyes – intelligent, gentle and vulnerable – can remain unchanged, for the gap between ape and human vanishes; we know that the gorilla still lives within us.” Luckily for us the clouds lifted and so did the mood, and soon the entire family began to trickle out from all sides to forage and socialise, seemingly oblivious to their twolegged guests. There were mothers with wide-eyed infants, toddlers frolicking and the noble alpha feasting on some juicy bamboo shoots. At one point a blackback – a younger male in the family – burst through the bushes thumping his chest in show-off mode, and I was prevented from fleeing by a quick-thinking ranger’s firm hand on my shoulder. Guards, all armed, remain extremely vigilant and constantly make grunting sounds that, in gorillaspeak, signify submission. The entire 60 minutes was riveting and I was left with a treasury of precious memories.

All trekkers obviously need a base, and mine was Wilderness Sabyinyo, a storied lodge located 20 minutes from the VNP. Wilderness is a leading safari outfit in Africa and their properties are underpinned by blue-chip hospitality. Sabyinyo, meaning ‘tooth’ in Kinyarwanda, is all charm and quiet luxury, backing onto the densely forested volcanic foothills. The enviable location and proximity to the mountain means that guests are occasionally privy to a walkabout by the Hirwa gorilla family that call this area home. As Rwanda’s first community-owned lodge, Sabyinyo keeps the needs of their communities front of mind, actioning upliftment through their Sabyinyo Community Livelihood Association (SACOLA), established almost 20 years ago in a bid to drive socioeconomic change through a range of conservation initiatives.

The beauty of a Sabyinyo stay is that every cent spent by guests finds its way to those most in need. It’s an inspiring example of how gorilla tourism is positively impacting lives on a daily basis, making a difference at grassroots level. Viva Rwanda. ■

BEYOND THE GORILLAS…

STAY: Luxury Pool villa at The Retreat. heavenrwanda.com/stay/the-retreat

COFFEE: Question Coffee, an all-women coffee collective. questioncoffee.com

DINE: Traditional and contemporary cuisine at Heaven. heavenrwanda.com

CITY TOUR: Didier Mpore (Wilderness) +250783598538

CRAFTS: Talking Through Art – crafts made by remarkable genocide victims with disabilities. talkingthroughart.org

HISTORICAL EXPERIENCE: Kigali Genocide Memorial. kgm.rw

GREAT PRE-RWANDA READING: A Thousand Hills to Heaven by Josh Ruxin.

Need To Know

ACCOMMODATION: Wilderness Sabyinyo, Northwest Rwanda. wildernessdestinations.com

PERMIT: $500 for African citizens, or $1 500.

BEST TIME TO VISIT: While you can track the gorillas any time of the year, the dry months are between June and September, making your trek a little easier.

WHAT TO WEAR: Remember that you’ll be spending plenty of time walking in the reserve, so the appropriate attire and comfy walking shoes are a must.