COMING HOME

SAAM (SOUTH AFRICA–AMSTERDAM) is housed in a glass-canted building on the Amstel River. With the tagline “We unite South African and Dutch gastronomy” and the translation of the Afrikaans word ‘saam’ meaning ‘together’, this project is all about collaboration.

On the opening team is one of the Netherlands’ most celebrated sommeliers, Koen van der Plas, Henk Jan Beltman of confectionery brand Tony’s Chocolonely, celebrated Dutch chef Jasper Hermans and, of course, multi-award winning South African chef, Margot Janse.

Margot has called South Africa home for over three decades. Born in the Netherlands, she came to South Africa in 1989 after working in Zimbabwe as a news photographer, then carving her way down to Johannesburg where her restaurant journey began at Ciro Molinaro in Parktown North. Chef Ciro took the young talent under his wing, encouraging her to try and experiment beyond the traditional food boundaries.

In 1995 she took on the role of sous-chef at Le Quartier Français in Franschhoek.

Fate then pushed its hand when Margot was thrust into the role of executive chef; the incumbent had abruptly vacated his post. During her 21 years in Franschhoek, The Tasting Room consistently ranked in S.Pellegrino’s World’s 50 Best Restaurants, was a forerunner on Eat Out’s Top Ten awards. She can add yet another award to the list with the recent acknowledgment of SAAM as the highest newcomer of the year in the 2023 Gault & Millau Guide

It was at The Tasting Room that Margot first crossed paths with Koen. A year later they had a chance encounter while she was in Holland filming a television show. A few more years passed while Margot focused on her charity, Isabelo, consulted and was the head Eat Out judge. And then, out of the blue, Koen called her with “a great idea”. Cue many meetings punctuated with trips to South Africa by the Dutch contingent to soak up inspiration – and plenty of food and wine.

“Right from the start, Koen and I were on the same page. We didn’t want smoke and mirrors anymore,” Margot explains with a smile. “I said let’s do something because we want to, not to chase awards. There is great camaraderie between us.”

Margot will continue living in South Africa running Isabelo and consulting. She has a good system in place with the SAAM team: regular catch-ups online with scheduled visits to the restaurant throughout the year.

The aesthetic of the restaurant is pared back and the sand-coloured canvas is punctuated with the bright, bold colours yourluxury.africa of Africa. “We want people to feel at ease from the moment they step into SAAM,” says Margot. “We’ve eschewed the formal atmosphere without making concessions to the experience. All the materials used – from the glassware to the furniture – are of the highest quality, presented in a modest way.” Some South African imports include chairs from David Krynauw and Vogel Design, wall and floor tiles from Wolkberg, ceramic art by The Butchery and hand soap and lotion for the bathrooms from Fyn Botanicals. Hung on the walls is art by Abé Opperman, as well as a selection from the Spier Arts Trust – an altruistic endeavour to uplift emerging African artists.

The menu is peppered with African ingredients and techniques, and Margot’s beloved baobab, suurvygies (sour figs), sorghum and buchu feature regularly. Among many other endemic ingredients is the mystic heerenbone from the West Coast of South Africa.

Wine has also been given head billing. Sommeliers Koen and Max van Bockel have diligently curated an extensive wine list weighted heavily to South Africa, complemented by a range of French and German selections.

Margot, who is on her way back to the Netherlands again soon, is looking forward to the round table with the team. “We use the time to connect as people over some great food and wine. I didn’t want a restaurant where I felt guilty for not being there every night, like I was when at The Tasting Room. That absorbs everything. I'm enjoying the freedom of being able to do more than one thing.”

She has recently moved back into her Franschhoek home and spends plenty of time in the kitchen with her 18-year-old son, Thomas. It has taken them five years to move back after an oak crashed into their home one stormy night. Now, with a print of the oak’s heartwood hanging on her lounge wall, there’s a feeling of calm, opportunity and togetherness.

You’re welcomed into the Janse’s home just like you would be at SAAM. With warmth. “It’s our mission to make people feel welcome the moment they enter the restaurant. This is due to South African hospitality; especially after the team has experienced it for themselves. In a way, I think we have managed to export that feeling into the restaurant itself.” saamrestaurant.nl ■

WHY DID YOU DECIDE TO BECOME A CHEF? “It was never a conscious decision, it just happened with time. It was something that grew.”

HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR OVERALL COOKING PHILOSOPHY? “My way of expressing myself through food is about integrity and gratitude. It’s the philosophy of my life.”

NAME THE THREE KITCHEN TOOLS YOU CAN’T DO WITHOUT. “A knife is pretty handy! I also enjoy my microplane – and a lighter for when loadshedding hits in South Africa.”

WHICH CHEF DO YOU ADMIRE?

“Mmabatho Molefe of Emazulwini

Restaurant who heroes her Zulu roots through the celebration of African cooking. She was also recently named ‘hospitality pioneer’ on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, 50 Next list. When the SAAM team was here, we were lucky to enjoy her tasting menu.”

IF YOU HAD TO HAVE A RENOWNED CHEF COOK FOR YOU, WHO WOULD IT BE?

“I have been fortunate enough to have Alex Atala cook for me. He put Brazilian ingredients on the map.”

WITH GLOBAL WARMING THREATENING TO WREAK HAVOC ON LOCAL CULTIVARS, WINEMAKERS ARE LOOKING ABROAD FOR INNOVATIVE AND CREATIVE SOLUTIONS

WORDS RICHARD HOLMES