METICULOUSLY MONOCHROMED

BLACK AND WHITE IS THE ORDER OF THE MONTH WITH DISTINCTIVE DESIGN DOING ALL THE TALKING WHILE THE RESERVED COLOUR PALETTE PACKS A SUBTLE YET STRIKING PUNCH audemarspiguet.com

Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer Audemars Piguet presents a new version of its Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph 42 mm, housed in its first-ever black ceramic case with a matching bracelet and a black Petite Tapisserie dial for a contemporary monochrome look.

Since its creation, the Royal Oak Offshore collection has been dressed in a wide range of materials, such as titanium and forged carbon. In addition to steel or gold, these avant-garde materials offer the perfect balance between technical innovation and design, elegance and robustness.

Powered by Calibre 4404, Audemars Piguet’s integrated chronograph movement with a flyback function, the new reference 26238CE continues in this vein as it is the first Royal Oak Offshore with a case and bracelet made entirely of ceramic. This material is also used for the push-pieces at 2 and 4 o’clock that operate the chronograph, as well as for the screw-locked crown at 3 o’clock. Only the eight white gold screws attaching the bezel to the case stand out, along with the eight luminescent applied hour-markers that punctuate the hours and the titanium caseback.

The dial is dressed in the same matte black colour as the case, bracelet, push-pieces, bezel and crown. It is decorated with the Petite Tapisserie pattern, a signature motif previously reserved for the 26238 references in gold or titanium. While past references had variations in tone, this new reference is the first to be totally monochrome in pitch black, which is particularly difficult to achieve due to the different materials and textures used. This aesthetic choice gives the timepiece an unprecedented depth.

To enhance legibility, a wide range of finishings have been developed for this timepiece. Each of the counters is accompanied by a white hand offering a distinct contrast that is further accentuated by a disc of white Arabic numerals.

Similarly, the circular date window (at 3 o’clock) and the three emblematic counters of the Royal Oak Offshore unfold around the two large luminescent hour and minute hands, small seconds at 6 o’clock, chronograph minutes at 9 o’clock and chronograph hours at 12 o’clock. This layout keeps the famous vertical arrangement of the collection. It also follows the subtle introduction made in 2021 where the hour and small seconds counters were switched to offer a top-to-bottom reading of the elapsed hours and minutes.

The ceramic used has been meticulously finished to reveal its subtleties. The craftsmen of the Manufacture met a triple challenge; the first was to achieve the highest standards of quality and finishing, demanded by Audemars Piguet. The second was to perfectly master ceramic which is particularly challenging to work with due to its extreme hardness. And finally, to marry the complex lines of the Royal Oak Offshore case with alternating polished and satin finishing. audemarspiguet.com

Although the exact composition of the ceramic at Audemars Piguet remains a well-kept secret, it is partly made of zirconium oxide powder that is combined with a specific binder. Its homogeneous colour only appears once the material is sintered at temperatures in excess of 1,000oC.

Each component is then pre-polished and pre-satin finished. Lines, angles and bezels are meticulously finished by hand to obtain the alternating polished and satin surfaces that are the Manufacture’s signature style. This demanding work reveals the uniqueness of the material and its colour, exploiting all the subtleties of the material.

Equipped with the latest integrated automatic chronograph, Calibre 4404, featuring a column wheel and flyback function that, unlike a traditional chronograph, allows it to be restarted without having to first stop and reset it, the column wheel has a vertical clutch designed to allow smooth pressure on each push-piece. When the chronograph is started or stopped, the hands immediately start moving, without any delay or unexpected jumps. A patented reset mechanism also ensures that each chronograph hand instantly returns to its vertical starting position. The stunning sapphire and titanium caseback allows the wearer to admire the operation of the chronograph’s column wheel below. When the reset push-piece is pressed, the hammers, directed by a lever, strike the central cam to reset the chronograph wheels and set the hands to zero. The wearer can also admire the 22-carat pink gold oscillating weight that has been engraved with the initials AP, echoing the historic versions of the Royal Oak Offshore. The movement also features refined finishes such as Côtes de Genève, circular graining, circular satin finishing and polished bevels.

This new Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph is being released for the collection’s 30th anniversary, which saw its first model presented in 1993. Its various models have never ceased to evolve in terms of the movements, materials, finishings and dials used. Extending the use of monochrome ceramic to the entirety of the case, and reinforcing the presence of the Petite Tapisserie pattern that decorates only three of the current Royal Oak Offshore models, this new reference offers a contemporary and sober tribute to the collection.

Kicking off 2023 with a focus on its most creative and daring platform for horological innovation, Zenith is unveiling some of its latest Defy creations at LVMH Watch Week 2023 alongside LVMH Maisons Bulgari, Hublot and Tag Heuer.

Taking on a hybrid format of on-location and digital presentations, this year LVMH Watch Week is heading to Singapore followed by New York.

Showcasing the different lines within the Defy collection, synonymous with the Zenith’s unique take on progressive watchmaking. The Defy Skyline Skeleton introduces a new expression of the modern skeleton watch, equipped with an El Primero calibre and boasting a uniquely symmetrical open dial. The Defy Skyline is also proposed in a new mid-size, unisex 36mm version, incorporating new pastel colours into the instantly recognisable case design. The Defy Skyline in 41mm also receives its first Boutique Edition, masterfully blending dark and golden tones. In the rugged spirit of the Defy Extreme, Zenith continues to seek inspiration from the raw, elemental beauty of wild terrains with the Defy Extreme Glacier.

Introduced last year as the latest chapter in the enduring Defy legacy of sturdy and singularly futuristic timekeepers, the Defy Skyline collection was conceived for an ever-fastmoving world where every fraction of a second can be a decisive one. Taking cues from modern cityscapes where structures and light are bound in a constantly moving interplay, the Defy Skyline Skeleton reaches even further towards the light on the horizon and opens a whole new world of possibilities to what a skeleton watch can be.

Housed within an angular 41mm steel case, the harmoniously symmetrical skeleton dial takes on the form of a fourpointed stars, in a nod to the Zenith “double Z” logo of the 1960s. The chapter ring’s applied baton hour markers as well as the central hour and minute hands are filled with Super-LumiNova for easy legibility; something that is usually sacrificed in skeleton watches. A constantly running 1/10th of a second counter at 6 o’clock makes steady jumps in fixed increments, completing one revolution every 10 seconds. The open dial comes in black or blue, with the skeleton movement’s main plate as well as the bridges and open star-shaped oscillating weight finished in the same colour as the open dials for a cohesive and architectural look. The different finishes combining matte, satin-brushed and polished surfaces further accentuate the depth of the moment and intensity of the colour. zenith-watches.com zenith-watches.com carl-f-bucherer.com

Following the unique octagonal geometry of the early Defy models of the 1960s, the sculpted steel case of the Defy Skyline Skeleton retains the same DNA of robustness and durability as its predecessors while bringing an edgier and more architectural aesthetic, as well as a host of new functions. Fixed atop the 41mm stainless steel case with sharply defined edges, the faceted bezel is reminiscent of those from early Defy models, reimagined with twelve sides that are positioned as extensions to the hour markers. With an emphasis on performance in the largest possible range of activities and situations, the screw-down crown emblazoned with the star emblem provides a water-resistance of 10 ATM (100 metres).

Visible from the front as well as the sapphire display back is the open-worked version of the highfrequency automatic El Primero calibre, the 3620 SK. Built with a similar architecture as the El Primero 3600 1/10th of a second chronograph, this automatic manufacture movement drives the 1/10th of a second hand directly from the escapement, which beats at 5Hz (36’000 VpH), thus making it a “natural” fraction-of-a-second indication. Its efficient automatic bidirectional winding mechanism with a star-shaped rotor delivers a power reserve of approximately 60 hours. With versatility at its core, the Defy Skyline Skeleton features an ingenious quick strap-change mechanism consisting of secure buttons on the back. The steel bracelet with a satin-brushed surface with chamfered and polished edges can easily be swapped with the supplied rubber strap and steel folding clasp with a starry sky pattern that’s colour-matched to the dial.

Bringing a new dimension to the Defy line and reimagining the possibilities of skeleton watches in form as well as function, the DefySkyline Skeleton is available at Zenith boutiques and authorised retailers around the world.

Alongside the Defy Skyline Skeleton, Zenith is also presenting other new creations from across the Defy collection.

2023 marks the 135th birthday of the Lucerne-based Swiss watchmaker Carl F. Bucherer (CFB).

The perfect time to enter a new era, the launch of CFB’s Capsule Collection is not only a special edition to mark this anniversary, but also represents a departure from every other product presentation in the brand’s long history.

The five watches - all of which reimagine bestsellers from the brand’s portfolio - make a powerful statement. CFB, admired globally for its independence, innovation, and aesthetic originality, is setting its sights on some exciting new journeys, on exploring time differently, and on engaging with a contemporary clientele. The five watches will be launched on the same day, with each model debuting every two hours in a different cosmopolitan city.

With its five different timepieces - three of which are available only in limited quantities - the CFB Capsule Collection is positioned to appeal to anyone those who thrive on their own independence and see the world around them a bit differently.

CFB’s Chief Technology Officer Samir Merdanovic points out that while the watches tap into the brand’s travel and exploration DNA, they also resonate with the founder’s vision: “We’ve created the CFB Capsule Collection for people who not only have an entrepreneurial spirit, but who particularly appreciate exploring time differently.” Today, CFB has a clear vision for the future and will be exploring time differently going forward. Merdanovic continues: “Our positioning allows us to meet the needs and desires of the modern consumer around the world. In this context, we decided to refrain from launching timepieces for either men or women in a specific age bracket, but rather will continue launching watches that capture the zeitgeist of contemporary generations and reflect their appreciation of cool design, innovative mastery, and excellent craftsmanship.”

In line with Carl F. Bucherer’s pioneering spirit, the brand has turned to forged carbon, the element at the heart of life as we know it, in the creation of each of the five watches in the CFB Capsule Collection.

For many, the flagship will be the Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral Black, limited to 30 pieces and featuring a COSC- certified chronometer. Inside its forged carbon case with a titanium container is a CFB T3000 manufacture caliber with a patented peripherally mounted floating tourbillon. Striking, innovative, and technically superb, inside and out. carl-f-bucherer.com

Others will see every day of their futures in the Manero Peripheral Perpetual Calendar Black, limited to 88 pieces and featuring a COSC-certified chronometer. Inside the forged carbon case with a titanium container is a CFB A2055 manufacture caliber with a perpetual calendar and moon-phase functions whose display consists of a disc of aventurine and two small handengraved moons in white gold. It keeps track of every day - even in leap years - which means the wearer only has to think about how to make the best use of that time (a minor correction will have to be made in the year 2100).

The last of the watches crafted from forged carbon and titanium is the Manero Peripheral BigDate Black, limited to 188 pieces and featuring a COSC-certified chronometer. Its engine is the CFB A2011 manufacture caliber, taking its name from the big bold date aperture at 11 o’clock. The dial is rounded out with a weekday indicator and small seconds and power reserve subdials: an impressive amount of information available at a glance.

The Manero Flyback Blackunlimited - is the CFB Capsule Collection’s expression of one of Carl F. Bucherer’s most popular watches. It has a stunning DLC-coated stainless-steel case with a deep black matte lacquered surface, while the CFB 1970 caliber features chronograph and flyback functions.

The Heritage BiCompax Annual Black - unlimited - is the CFB Capsule Collection’s interpretation of another CFB favourite. The case is made of DLCcoated stainless steel with a deep black matte lacquered surface. The dial features a big date and two chronograph counters, and the CFB 1972 caliber delivers an annual calendar function, which means the date only has to be changed once a year.

In its 135th anniversary year, the brand’s wanderlust leads - as the Capsule Collection demonstrates - to new adventures exploring time differently. The CFB Capsule Collection marks the start of this series of new releases, showcasing 13 decades of expertise in producing and launching brilliant timepieces.