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A Sommelier’sTake

AN INTERVIEW WITH MICHELLE FOLETTA BELL

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BY SAM POLONSKY, CITY WINERY NASHVILLE

Here at City Winery Nashville, we respect the history and heritage of Tennessee whiskey and want to pay homage in the best way we know how: by showcasing it in our wine! Every sip of the Old Thoroughbred Cabernet Sauvignon contains a taste of whiskey history. Thanks to our head winemaker, Michelle Foletta Bell, we can offer this unique and noteworthy bottle for both the wine enthusiast and whiskey aficionado to appreciate.

A California native, Michelle Foletta Bell was born with a spirited passion for winemaking’s history, art, and skill. She brings eight years of experience in the industry to City Winery Nashville as our local head winemaker.

After tasting her way through major wine regions around the world, Foletta Bell studied wine with the Guild of Sommeliers and started her career in winery tasting rooms across California. She worked in the Paso Robles AVA near the St. Lucia Mountain range and managed the wine club, commercial sales and harvest logistics at Tanner Vineyards, a boutique winery in the Sierra Foothills. While she loved working with customers, her joy has always been in the handson process of winemaking. In October of 2017, Michelle jumped at the chance to move to Nashville and join the City Winery winemaking team.

As the City Winery Nashville Marketing Manager, I had an opportunity to sit down with Michelle to find out more about her and this interesting Cabernet now available at City Winery Nashville. When did you start thinking about the concept of the Old Thoroughbred Cabernet? MFB: My inspiration to age wine in whiskey barrels had begun about six years ago when, on a whim, I ordered an Old Vine Spanish Syrah aged in Pappy Van Winkle barrels online. I was so intrigued by this process and kept it in the back of my mind. Then, years later, in 2018, we acquired some barrels from our friends over at Belle Meade Bourbon/Greenbrier Distillery, and I knew what a cool concept it would be, especially locally.

How did you combine your knowledge of wine with the history of TN whiskey? MFB: Wine and whiskey have a few things in common, but the biggest standout to me was Oak. The character it provides for whiskey and wine is essential and very stylistic. Tennessee has a rich history of making whiskey, and the traditions and methods have been unchanging over the years. Much of this celebration of tradition is similar to winemaking.

What flavors do the whiskey barrels add to the wine that you wouldn’t taste without them? MFB: The biggest difference between whiskey and wine barrels is the toast level. Most wine barrels are either light, medium or high toast, while whiskey barrels have more of a char to them. This char gives the wine a much more intense and deeper flavor, one that expresses the quality of the oak a little more than you’d expect. The char also acts as natural filtration to the wine, which adds a bit of clarity to the eye, something I hadn’t thought of until we were going through the process of aging. What meals/ snacks would you pair this wine with? MFB: Food is such a wonderful asset when you’re enjoying wine. Big and tannic wines like this one do well when paired with heavier fat or

cream-driven dishes. Sometimes it is hard to know what the right pairing can be, but I always suggest mirroring what you are drinking with what you eat. For instance, I love to pair bold wines with bold flavors. Something this big and rich can stand up to a lot of different dishes–think coffee-rubbed rib eye, fried brussels sprouts, flourless chocolate cake and even a cigar. For something especially fun, have a shot of whiskey as a sidecar. This is also an ideal wine to enjoy with cheeses and cured meats; go for soft and rich cheeses or hard, nutty ones like gruyere. For cured meats, think coppa and a pepper-crusted salami.

Give three description words of the Old Thoroughbred? MFB: Rich, whiskey and toffee.

Inspiration behind the label? MFB: Our goal with this label was to show off Tennessee. I visited Uncle Nearest Distillery back in early 2021 while it was still under construction, and they have a beautiful collection of Tennessee walking horses. They’re popular riding horses due to their calm disposition, smooth gaits and sure-footedness. We loved the idea of pairing this horse with our Tennessee barrels. As an extra little nod, I ended up having the horse on this label look like one of my dogs, Lucy. With each lot, we hope to feature a different distillery and a different dog with that.

Founded in New York City in 2008 by Michael Dorf, City Winery delivers a unique combined culinary and cultural experience to urban wine enthusiasts. Each City Winery offers intimate concerts, food and wine seminars, private event spaces, upscale dining, and a fully functioning winery. Check out the Nashville location for intimate concerts, locally made wine, good food and unforgettable private events! Learn more at citywinery.com.

Pours Palates

AN EXPERIENCE AT COAL TOWN PUBLIC HOUSE

BY ANNA ROBERTSON HAM

An exceptional meal with a view! This is precisely what you get to experience at Coal Town Public House. The eatery, sits on the lake in the Westhaven community. It has a modern and eclectic style with high ceilings, a huge bar, natural light with big garage door windows and a beautiful view of the Westhaven lake.

The menu of unique dishes is an elevated take on American cuisine. Executive Chef Chris Cunningham fell in love with the art of food after working in a restaurant during his college years. He never went to culinary school and is simply self-taught through trial and error. “My favorite style of cooking right now is upscale southern, but it changes with the seasons,” Chris says. “We, as a team, have a lot of discussions about menu direction, and then I dig a lot into childhood memories and try to hit those points on my menus. My favorite dish on the menu is for sure the shrimp and grits. For me, it explains my style and hits so many notes on the palette.”

I tried several dishes, including a couple of cocktails at my visit to Public House. One of the starters I tried were the oysters on the half shell with sherry mignonette, smoked cocktail sauce, grilled lemon and house-made salted crackers. The oysters are one of the newest items on the menu, and Chris says they are one of the purest forms of food one can eat. “Salty, sweet and luxurious,” he says. I have to agree. I am an oyster fan and thrive on finding great batches locally to enjoy, and Public House will definitely be a place I can go to for them.

Another starter I enjoyed was the house-made focaccia with whipped truffle ricotta and shredded pecorino. Hello, truffle! Combine bread, cheese and truffle, and you get magic. I could have eaten every bite of this amazing bowl of goodness, but I kept myself in check so I could enjoy all of the other dishes. I will definitely order this one again and again!

After that, I tried the duck duo; a pan-seared duck breast, duck leg confit, brown butter herb red potatoes, roasted cauliflower and pan jus. I like duck, and this take on it was done in a very tasty and generous way. The combination of the duck with the roasted vegetables made this dish very savory and filling. My brother is a duck fan, and after I told him how good it was, he dined at Public House and loved it.

Another main dish I got to taste was the grilled double-cut bone-in pork chop with a sorghum molasses demi-glaze. This serving would satisfy everybody and could be a dish to split between two. It was delicious and cooked perfectly, and the glaze brought the savory and sweet flavors together in a delectable way.

I tried the Chocolate Tart with white chocolate, cocoa nib brittle and strawberry granita for dessert — yum! I say it all of the time, just give me the chocolate dessert and I will be fine because I love chocolate. However, I am not always satisfied with every chocolate dessert I have encountered, but this one was beautifully presented in such a simple way and tasted delightful. The sweetness of the chocolate paired with the tartness of the strawberry granita and then completed with the crunch of the brittle was delicious. Make sure you order it when you visit the Public House!

I enjoyed two cocktails — the Queen of the South and the Hibiscus Paloma. The Queen of the South is comprised of Empress Gin, pineapple juice, lemon juice and orgeat. I loved the ombré separation of the contents of this cocktail, as the Empress Gin is a vibrant purple. Once blended, it had a refreshing and subtly sweet taste. The Hibiscus Paloma is created with Gran Dovejo high-proof Blanco Tequila, grapefruit juice, lime juice, hibiscus and topped with soda water. This drink is a dessert all on its own. The Hibiscus Paloma is a celebration drink, and it is perfectly presented while pleasing the palate for someone wanting a twist on a typical cocktail. Sipping on either of these while looking at the lake — what could be more perfect? Coal Town Public House offers not only an atmosphere that cannot be compared to anything in Williamson County, but also a menu that has been thoughtfully curated to provide its guests a truly elevated experience. They have live music every Friday and Saturday starting at 8:30pm, including dueling pianos twice a month. And cheers to the happiest of hours with Public House, who celebrates happy hour Wednesday through Sunday from 3pm to 5pm. They are also now offering Sunday brunch from 11am to 3pm, which is a staple for many on the weekend.

They have all the cravings covered, whether that be good food, a satisfying drink, an amazing atmosphere, or live music!

187 Front Street, Suite 103 Franklin, TN 37064 615.807.1194 coaltownpublichouse.com

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