11 minute read
A Southern Gentleman Is 2016 with Danny Anderson
Get Your Silver Cups Ready
BY DANNY ANDERSON
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It’s time, once again, for me to pull out my silver julep cups and get ready for one of my favorite events - the Iroquois Steeplechase. Honestly, I think Steeplechase is my favorite day of the year – the setting is awesome, the horses beautiful, the people spectacular and the cause so worthy. I am a mint julep enthusiast, to say the least. Love them! My wife started me a collection of julep cups years ago, and friends have added to the collection that I so treasure. Traditionally, mint juleps were often served in silver or pewter cups and held only by the bottom and top edges of the cup allowing frost to form on the outside of the cup. In early days, Virginians would sip on mint juleps, served in silver goblets, over breakfast. It has been said that the drink, traditionally made with sugar syrup and mint, was once cherished for its medicinal properties and was used by farmers for a jolt akin to coffee. During this time, they were made with brandy or rum. Some say bourbon, which was readily available, was introduced to the julep by poor Southerners who could not afford fine liquor. To this day, many enthusiasts insist that a proper julep should be made only with bourbon whiskey. Bourbon whiskey is named after Bourbon County in Kentucky, which was established in 1786. Different from other whiskeys, bourbon must contain at least 51 percent corn, made with soft water and aged in highly chard oak barrels to give it its dark color. The bourbon based Mint Julep evolved probably because of the passionate people who loved it, one of the most notable being Henry Clay who made the mint julep famous at the world renowned Willard Hotel’s Round Robin Bar in Washington D.C. - securing it as one of the most iconic drinks in the bourbon world.
Chris Morris, from Woodford Reserve Bourbon, says, “Centuries ago, there was an Arabic drink called julab, made with water and rose petals. The beverage had a delicate and refreshing scent that people thought would instantly enhance the quality of their lives.” When the julab was introduced to the Mediterranean region, the native population replaced the rose petals with mint – thus, resulting in the Mint Julep. Did you know that the Mint Julep has been the official drink of the Kentucky Derby since 1938? Nearly 120,000 juleps will be sold at Churchill Downs over the two-day weekend, in Kentucky Derby collectible glasses. In 1937, Lt. Gen. S.B. Buckner Jr. wrote a letter to Gen. William D. Connor, who had asked Gen. Buckner, a Kentuckian, for instruction on how to prepare a Mint Julep. Here is a portion of that letter:
My Dear General Connor, A Mint Julep is not a product of a formula. It is a ceremony and must be performed by a gentleman possessing a true sense of the artistic, a deep reverence for the ingredients and a proper appreciation of the occasion. It is a rite that must not be entrusted to a novice… It is a heritage of the Old South, an emblem of hospitality, and a vehicle in which noble minds can travel together upon the flower-strewn paths of a happy and congenial thought. So far as the mere mechanics of the operation are concerned, the procedure, stripped of its ceremonial embellishment, can be described as follows:
Go to a spring where cool, crystal clear water bubbles from under a bank of dew-washed ferns. In a consecrated vessel, dip up a little water at the source. Follow the stream thru its banks of green moss and wild flowers until it broadens and trickles thru beds of mint growing in aromatic profusion and waving softly in the summer breeze. Gather the sweetest and tenderest shoots and gently carry them home. Go to the sideboard and select a decanter of Kentucky Bourbon distilled by a master hand, mellowed with age, yet still vigorous and inspiring. An ancestral sugar bowl, a row of silver cups, some spoons and some ice and you are ready to start. Into a canvas bag pound twice as much ice as you think you will need. Make it fine as snow, keep it dry and do not allow it to degenerate into slush. Into each cup put a slightly heaping teaspoonful of granulated sugar, barely cover this with spring water and slightly bruise one mint leaf into this, leaving the spoon in the cup. Then pour elixir from the decanter until the cups are about onefourth full. Fill the cups with snowy ice, sprinkling in a small amount of sugar as you fill. Wipe of outside of the cups dry, and embellish copiously with mint. Then comes the delicate and important operation of frosting. By proper manipulation of the spoon the ingredients are circulated and blended until nature, wishing to take a further hand and add another of its beautiful phenomena, encrusts the whole in a glistening coat of white frost. Thus harmoniously blended by the deft touches of a skilled hand, you have a beverage eminently appropriate for honorable men and beautiful women. or in the garden where the aroma of the juleps will rise heavenward and make the birds sign. Propose a worthy toast, raise the cups to your lips, bury your nose in the mint, inhale a deep breath of its fragrance and sip the nectar of the gods. Being overcome with thirst, I can write no further Sincerely, Lt. Gen. S. B. Buckner Jr. If you don’t have all day to make yourself a Mint Julep, you might try one of these: Make a simple syrup by boiling two cups of sugar and two cups of water together for five minutes. Cool and place in a covered container with six or eight sprigs of fresh mint, then refrigerate overnight. Make one julep at a time by filling a julep cup with crushed ice, adding one tablespoon mint syrup and two ounces of bourbon whiskey. Stir rapidly with a spoon to frost the outside of the cup (remember to hold the cup at the top or bottom). Garnish with a sprig of fresh mint. Even easier – do it like they do it at the Kentucky Derby: Buy a bottle of Old Forester Mint Julep Readyto-serve Cocktail, pour over crushed ice and add mint.
Come rain or shine, I will be at Steeplechase – julep cups and all. Hope to see you there.
Cheers! Danny
Pours & Palates
An Experience at 1799 Kitchen & Cocktails
BY ANNA ROBERTSON HAM
Many have raved about the dining at 1799 Kitchen & Cocktails…and for good reason. 1799 is the restaurant that sits on the lower left level as you enter The Harpeth, in downtown Franklin. Situated just off the lobby with an incredible bar that greets you, the eatery has an inviting feel for all that walk through the main entrance to the hotel. Once you enter 1799, you experience Franklin’s historic beauty through the artwork. The walls are covered in a scenic Franklin landscape display, by local artist Kelly Harwood. In the middle of the restaurant, you are pulled in by an amazing and artistic whiskey barrel design. The ceiling is reminiscent of the whiskey mash inside the barrel, along with planked walls surrounding the interior dining area…a nod to the thoughtfully curated whiskey and bourbon selections offered at the bar. On the exterior of the restaurant more tables and private booths, with curtains that can be drawn for private parties, are offered.
Executive Chef Devin Walline The atmosphere is perfect for a romantic date, night on the town, or even a casual drink. All are welcome to enjoy the eatery, as it is not just for the hotel guests. Live music is available on select nights and can be heard either in the lobby or the courtyard, depending on performer setup. When I visited 1799 for a tasting, Executive Chef Devin Walline described the dining perfectly: It’s an experience. From the starters to the desserts - and the cocktails - the menu is perfectly curated to show appreciation for local vendors, southern fare and relatability. Chef Devin has a passion for creating food that brings people together. He grew up enjoying family meals with his father doing the cooking and grilling, all while Devin learned from him and began his appreciation for the dynamic of family togetherness. He says that his goal is to “bring people together and create moments,” and “doing that through food is very rewarding.” After talking with Chef Devin, I knew that everything he was going to bring to the menu was going to be an exceptional blend of options that met all tastes and palates. And, I was not disappointed. The first dish I tasted was the Buttermilk Fried Quail with Johnny Cakes, Pickled Sweet Pepper and Bourbon Maple. Quail is not the typical go-to for many, however, this dish is THE dish to order and try. You will be surprisingly and deliciously satisfied with the flavorful creation. Beautifully presented, this appetizer can be a meal on its own and gives those savory and sweet cravings their satisfaction.
Next, I tried the Grilled Pork Chop with Red Beans, Apple, Frisee and Maple Dijon Glaze. Warning - this dish is huge! It can feed two if you want a hearty meal to split. Chef Devin created this six-hour brined, bone-in pork chop as an “approachable, simple and relatable,” meal. Paired with the red beans, this dish has true southern inspiration and the flavor to meet all expectations.
Another main course I had the opportunity to try was the Scallops, served with Farro, Charred Box Choy, Carrot, Mushroom Dashi, Miso Butter and Sunchoke Chips. This was my favorite dish of the tasting! I am a scallop fan and this take on the seafood dish made it a rich, delectable and filling plate to enjoy. The scallops dish is changed up for the seasons, but I hope this one sticks around for a while...otherwise, I might have to make a special request. The dessert I got to taste was the Gluten Free Shortcake with Chantilly Whipped Cream, Strawberries and Crystallized Mint. WOW! This is the dessert to order, even if you are not looking for gluten free. The sweet, tart mix with the lightness of it all was a perfect way to complete a meal. It is not over the top, but a perfect balance of taste and ingredients. I also enjoyed a signature cocktail - the 1799 Cobbler. Made with Cream Sherry, Goslings Rum, Lemon, Simple Syrup, Angostura, Raspberries, Blackberries and Mint - this drink was flavorful and refreshing. You do not taste the spirits, but more so the refreshing and sweet flavors of the berries and citrus. It is a wonderful cocktail to order for a warm day!
I encourage you to visit 1799 if you have not had the opportunity to do so, or go back and try out one of the dishes here. The menu changes up for what is in season, so one must enjoy them while they can. Along with 1799, the hotel also has McGavock’s Coffee Bar & Provisions which is a European-style café with gourmet sandwiches and salads, handcrafted cocktails, premium wines and local craft beer. The Harpeth itself is a beautiful and inviting space for guests. With 119 elegant guest rooms and various accommodations, including timeless decor and modern comforts, local artists, balconies and views of downtown Franklin or the courtyard, private VIP entrance, bus and valet parking, room service from 6 a.m. to 12 a.m. and pet friendly - it is a perfect place for celebrations, wedding parties and business. The lobby is a beautiful spot to sit and enjoy, along with the library of books, and the courtyard that has a grand staircase, surrounded by balconies. There is so much thought and creativity put into the The Harpeth, its accommodations and dining options. It is a wonderful addition to historic downtown Franklin, that has not missed the mark on reflecting the beauty of our city. The appreciation for the community and its history is everywhere throughout the building and rooms. Visit The Harpeth and 1799 soon - and enjoy THE experience.
The Harpeth | 1799 Kitchen & Cocktails 130 2nd Avenue North | Franklin, TN 37064 harpethhotel.com/1799-kitchen