Hidden food gems

YORK HAS WOKEN UP

A walled city boasting characterful history with connotations of Vikings, steam trains and the Minster. This will always be the city’s charm; but in a city which has resisted the 21st century all its life, it has finally been injected with some effervescence.

York may not always appear as bustling as it really is, with some of the best places tucked away down side streets. With names still to reach tourists ears, here are some of York’s hidden gems not to miss out on:

Skosh

The birth of this contemporary masterpiece is all thanks to the exciting culinary creations of Neil Bentinck.

Taken from the Japanese ‘sukoshi’ for ‘a small amount’, Skosh presents flavours of Japan and the Middle East in the form of genius small plates. Everyone should have this informal dining experience of ambitious dishes without the price tag. Heston Blumenthal style without the obnoxious, over-complication.

For food of this standard I was in disbelief of the cost and wanted to explore what Bentinck’s inspiration was behind something York has never seen before.

£16 is the restaurant’s highest price right now, so you can still try many things without you having to break the bank.

“The inspiration came from my Indian heritage and travelling through Malasia, Singapore and Thailand. I just love fresh, spicy food. If I am going to open a restaurant I want it to be relaxed and fun and should be food which I want to eat as well. That’s why I love to cook: to bring lots of different flavours to the city.”

“The quality of the ingredients have to be exceptional as a lot of produce is served raw. We have some wild venison loin, hand dived scallops in the shells which are still alive and some live oysters on at the moment. It is all about knowing your suppliers. Lots of wild fish we take off the bone and serve raw which comes in fresh everyday.”

Skosh change dishes every so often depending on what is coming in and out of season, some stay on for a while and others get tweaked. What is so exceptional, is the bespoke experience created for each diner. I sit in awe watching the chefs preparing my food, bringing dishes out in a logical order. Blessing my palate with gentle flavours, then a spark of tang or spice thrown in between courses to keep the taste buds dancing for more; then concluding on the richer side of the menu. Neil describes this as feeling like you have designed your own personal menu. The staff will pair dishes you choose to compliment each other. The wine list is tiny. To act as Bentinck’s ‘quality control’, the wines are all good and the key point is that they are all served by the glass.

“If someone wants eight different dishes, they can have say four glasses of wine to try with them so the food can be paired with the wine. It is the whole experience, as soon as you walk through the door to when you leave that people will remember.”

There is also a leather bound journal which has a lot more expensive wines and champagnes if people want something a little more exclusive. The clever combinations of nutty cheese, fiery curry tones, gentle herb, sweet onion and melt-in-the-mouth meats with tart pineapple erupting in my mouth will not be forgotten. Outstanding meal.

Bora Bora Bar

This bar could not be any more random. Ambling around the cobbled streets of Swinegate to find a vibrant cocktail bar through a hidden cut. Situated next to the popular Lucia restaurant, playing cheerful music on an evening and serving ‘York’s best cocktails’ either under £5 or in jugs for £17.95. A fun, cheap, mediterranean place for a few outside drinks or a dance inside. Worth a visit.

Spark: York (new york)

This really is the ‘new York’ aspect of the city, located in a neglected area of York, Piccadilly; this unique village of enterprises is made out of shipping containers. This may not sound appealing, however; whatever food desires you may have, your cravings can be satisfied here which is really quite outstanding. Clucking Oinks have a recipe for the perfect fried chicken and Spark York is blessed to have these eccentric burgers made there. There are also two bars. While diving into a crepe, burger, Thai food or salad there is often music events on too, and a range of unusual vintage clothing shops. All made out of shipping containers!

Valhalla

“Where heroes drink and dine.” There is nowhere more appropriate to immerse yourself in York’s Viking history than here. Hidden down the historic Shambles, is this Viking themed bar with fitting decor and animal skin throws. Originating from ‘Valhöll’ in old Norse, meaning the hall of the slain; Valhalla transports you to a traditional Viking pub serving IPA by Yorkshire Heart Brewery cask ales, hot drinks and of course ‘the drink of the Gods’: mead. A fantastic range of meat and bread platters are available too.

Ambiente Tapas

The best tapas menu in York. Ambiente have opened two branches in Fossgate and Goodramgate due to it’s popularity. The quaint location provides a warm, intimate ambience as spanish guitarist songs are played throughout. The menu not only serves classic tapas to a high standard of presentation and quality but it has an ambitious range of other options such as ‘Pulpo A La Gallega’—slices of octopus served in the traditional way on a bed of confit potatoes. A flexible and exciting menu which offers a bespoke experience.

Pairings

Tucked away down Castlegate, lies York’s special little wine and cheese board haven. Created by sisters Kate and Kelly as a place that they themselves would feel comfortable drinking and a venue that could one day be known for introducing people to wine education in an accessible and unpretentious way. The sisters chose Castlegate as the perfect area that was easily accessible but not frequented by stags, hens and noisy parties. It retains a comfortable atmosphere and definitely has the feeling of a hidden secret.

“They got the idea from an amalgamation of their favourite wine bars, restaurants and places that they frequented and enjoyed. Like most great venues, it’s a collage of a whole host of influences! Kate provides business acumen, Kelly brings wine knowledge and professionalism of service; they both complement each other’s strengths and weaknesses and are a really dynamic team.” Says James Hallam, general manager.

The flexible menu caters for any level of wine and cheese expertise; offering the option to have top quality plates of Iberico ham to enjoy over a glass of wine. Simply choose a platter or select your own ingredients from the excellent cheese and meats menu.

Smoked duck breast, award winning cheeses and a wine connoisseurs heaven; this menu can be slightly overwhelming in terms of what to choose. Boards range from £11 to £22 which feed minimum two people. Another place of good value.

“It’s simple in style but very high quality cheese boards, charcuterie, salads, desserts done incredibly well, with passionate staff who can advise when you’re unsure, or suggest things that you would never have even thought of. We have the nicest cheese you’ll have ever tried; and some of the most unique food and wine pairings too. Come in and ask for Delice De Cremier, or Tokaji, blue cheese and honey. Ask our staff for something surprising and find out for yourselves!”

By Larissa Nath