Maid In Oman Raped, beaten and exploited – the Ethiopian servants who have nowhere to turn
Saving Kids / Snake Canyon Slide The Cult Of Kiwi Cafe / E-Pets Hero’s Welcome: AL HABSI
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MAY 30 - JUN 05 • ISSUE 272 • WEEKLY
ROAD TO HAPPINESS: Positive Changes TURTLES IN THE SAND: Celebrating T-Day
The Horse Whisperer Meet the man who gets into the minds of equines to tame and train them
PLUS!
Fashion
SHADY BUSINESS
Food
32
2 FOR 1 ON Y COCKTAIL
Outdoors
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WALKING IN AL WAKAN
37
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Welcome to the new look Y Magazine your indispensable guide to everything modern Oman has to offer. This cute canine is friendly, funny and fully vaccinated. Homeless and helpless, she needs a name and a loving home. If you can be her new mummy or daddy, please call Barbara on 98048770 or 98980428.
Trend Barometer GOING UP Never Missing Y Again! Don’t panic if you forgot to pick up your favourite weekly publication. You can get a digital version of Y complete with flicking pages on y-oman.com. No downloading required. Simply click on the icon marked ‘current issue’ on the top left bar and voilà – all the coolest stories and trends are at your fingertips. It’s both smartphone and tablet friendly. GOING DOWN Energy Guzzling Green is the new black. So, how’s this for a cool new way to teach kids about electricity consumption? Bobo is an energy display in the shape of a polar bear with a storybook and web app. It displays electricity wastage by changing colour. Cute or what? For more information go to caretosave.me
Fast forward E
very year, young, vulnerable women come over to Oman as domestic workers to support families back home. They expect a brave new world of employment. Instead, many are abused, overworked and underpaid by their employers. Stories about the mistreatment of maids in Oman emerge regularly. The most horrific one I’ve heard is of the Ethiopian girl who was so brutally raped and beaten by her Omani boss and threee other men that she can now barely walk. These African youngsters are in a uniquely helpless position. Thousands of kilometres from home, with little education and no money, they are dependent on their employers. They have no voice. They have no embassy. They are alone and afraid. And against this backdrop, they are ripe for exploitation. In many cases, maids are treated as less than human. We can argue for changes in legislation, beg home countries to defend their nationals but at the end of the day, the solution is simple – treat domestic workers with the respect that they deserve.
Penny Fray
editor@y-oman.com
THIS WEEK…
EDITOR IN CHIEF Sayyida Iman bint Hamad bin Hamood Al Busaidi
Team Y has been to Dubai on business, danced to the African beat and been deciding what to buy our dads for Father’s Day.
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Eihab Abutaha SECTIONS EDITOR Kate Ginn
PHOTOGRAPHER Jerzy Wierzbicki ART DIRECTOR Matthew Herbst DIRECTOR OF SALES & MARKETING Feroz Khan
PAGE EDITOR Joe Gill
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MAY 30 - JUN 05 / ISSUE 272
03
contents MAY 30 2013
Features 20 Helping The Help Maid Abuse 24 Horse Whisperer Trick Rider
Your Oman
12
06 The Big Interview Robert Maclean
This Week
08 Voice of Oman Karima Farid 10 News Car Seat Donation
14 This Week Cooking Skills 16 Movie Listings The Hangover Part III 18 Gallery Africa United
Business & Career 26 Positive Changes Bringing In The New
Food & Drink 28 Trend The ‘Y’ Cocktail 30 Restaurant Review Kiwi Cafe 31 Gallery Wedding Show
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24
18
Cars & Outdoors
37 Destination Al Wakan Village 40 Outdoors Snake Canyon 42 My Hood Al Wadi Al Kabir 44 Y-Fi Pet Gadgets 46 Car of the Week 32 Fashion Chevrolet Impala Rockin’ Shades
Health & Beauty
34 Beauty Wardrobe Purge
44 NEXT WEEK’S ISSUE...
OMAN’S DEBT CRISIS THE VIRTUE OF ENVY COLOUR CRAZY HOT HARAMEL
YOUR
OMAN
SMILES BETTER
ROBERT MACLEAN, PRINCIPAL OF THE NATIONAL HOSPITALITY INSTITUTE OF OMAN
Words: Penny Fray
Tell me about you career in 60 seconds or less: I started working in hotels when I was just 12 years old before going on to study hotel business at college. I worked in Scotland and the Lake District in the UK before marrying Gina and moving to Wales to run her family business. I started my teaching career there before coming to Oman to work for the National Hospitality Institute (NHI), where I became principal in 1997. What does your typical working day entail? I often go straight into a client meeting to sell our programmes. If I’m in the office, I deal with my own correspondence and e-mails. When we have operational events on the go I usually get involved. There are house meetings throughout the week to discuss day-to-day issues, government policies as well as sales and marketing activities. I am extremely fortunate to head up a great team of people who just get on with the job. You’ve launched a ‘Smiles of Oman’ campaign – tell us more: When I shop in the local supermarkets and engage with staff with a smile and simple pleasantries such as ‘good morning’ or ‘shukran’ – it makes such a difference. This prompted our ‘Smiles of Oman’ campaign. The idea is to improve customer service and to develop the way customers treat service staff. How do you get great customer experience? I think you first have to go in with a positive frame of mind. As I said previously, if you engage with people, it usually leads to better service. It’s interesting to note that the less you ask for, the more you get. The ones who shout the loudest usually get the bare minimum. What words of wisdom have inspired you most in life? My old boss used to say that hospitality is just a game, and the one who has customers wanting to come back time and time again is the winner. He was right because it doesn’t matter what happens in between so long as you can turn the situation around and make someone happy. Any unfulfilled ambitions? I want to see our first Omani hotel manager in situ. On a personal front, I’d like to run a full marathon – I recently did the half marathon in Muscat. I also have a mission to climb to the top of Ben Nevis in my native Scotland. How do you relax in your spare time? Spending time with the family at home and meeting up with friends. ROB’S THREE TIPS TO HOSPITALITY SUCCESS 1.The customer is not always right but make sure they think it. 2.Take pleasure in seeing satisfied customers. 3.Be innovative. Give customers something different.
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News
Gallery
INTERVIEW
The Voice of Oman Yummy Mummy Karima Farid tells new parents not to let standards slip in the name of exhaustion.
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t’s already noon when you realise that you haven’t had breakfast, let alone brushed your hair or escaped the comfort of your pajamas. Leaving the house to meet the family is a lesson in military precision, yet you still manage to forget the bib. Argh! We mummies know that we have to trade everything – including vanity – to give our babies the best of care. But there are times, in the middle of a whirlwind, that you have to slow down and take stock. Here are just a few of the things that I’ve learnt since giving birth to my first child: Take your shower after the first feed and, if possible, have your breakfast too. Don’t be a martyr to motherhood – if you don’t breastfeed, ask daddy to take over the first feed before he goes to work. Plan your outings with your feeding times. Prepare the next day’s outfits in the evening (both for you and the baby). Let the person who loves your child nearly as much as you do babysit while you complete all your essential tasks. It’s hard – but try to pamper yourself with massages, manicures and some retail therapy. You deserve it. Thank all those people who help you. I now know how much my own mother loves me. Ditto – Daddy S – shukran for all your support – I love you!
• • • • • • •
Next week: RUMAITHA AL BUSAIDI returns
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correspondence Vital info to prevent cancer Dear Editor,
Editor’s Response
I was pleased to see such an important issue as breast cancer awareness raised in your magazine. However, your article failed to mention one important fact. Which hospitals/clinics perform breast cancer screening? I feel, as a new resident in Oman, this information would be very helpful.
The Oman Cancer Asociation advises any woman concerned about their health to visit their GP for an examination or referral to a hospital for a mammogram. Most hospitals in Muscat provide mammograms including Sultan Qaboos Hospital and the Royal Hospital. You can also pay to go privately if you cannot get a referral. Check your insurance policy to see if you are covered. If in doubt, as the article suggested, please get it checked out.
Kind regards, M Wilkinson, Muscat, Oman
Abe and the lost art of courtesy Dear Editor, On many occasions, I have seen emails in my inbox not even suitably addressed or signed off in a wellmannered fashion. Personal and professional communication should always carry the very basics of etiquette. Even though the electronic revolution has made communication so flexible and convenient in today’s complex environment, many are conveniently ignoring the very basics of communication. On most occasions, basic etiquette and politeness are
WRITE TO US AND WIN A VOUCHER
forgotten due to ignorance. I remember reading the words that the great Abraham Lincoln lived by in his relations with political constituents and acquaintances. They were about courtesy – ‘give to others the respect that you crave for yourself ’ and communication – ‘learn to communicate clearly, effectively, and wisely’. It was reported recently that due to the absence of effective communication, mostly in writing, numerous court cases failed to deliver justice. Whether it is formal or informal, good manners rewards equally and always makes a difference. Best Regards Ramachandran Nair Ruwi
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YOUR FEEDBACK IS IMPORTANT TO US
Debate of the Week We asked:
The 50 billionth app has been downloaded from the Apple App Store. What would your ultimate app be? Helen Owen Ingram I’d like an App that shouts at me: “Stop looking at your phone and go do some exercise!” Ali Fareed Mohammed Mc A game called Pocket God – you can manipulate an island and its inhabitants and there are many mini-games and quests. Rahul Chakraborty I’d like to see an app called Traffic App in which I just enter any location in the world and the app shows me the road situation (even better if it could also predict the incoming traffic). This would mean I never get stuck in any traffic and could also help my friends and relatives who don’t use this app.
LETTERS
E-MAILS
A ride for life I am an Omani studying in Australia. While in Melbourne, I have taken up many voluntary activities and enjoyed myself along the way. I have committed to taking part in The Ride to Conquer Cancer along with thousands of other men and women. The 200km bike ride through Victoria’s inspiring landscape takes place in October 26-27, and supports research into cancer therapies at the Peter MacCallum Cancer Centre in Melbourne. Cancer has not affected me personally, thank the Lord, but it is a rising disease in many countries around the world including Oman. “There are so many individuals out there who are suffering from such a common disease that is very difficult to cure. Together, by helping me help them, we will be able to gain awareness, knowledge and experiences to deal with the disease. I also participated in Living Below the
I'm a reader
FA C E B O O K
Line organised by the Oaktree Foundation in Australia helping children in Papau New Guinea and Cambodia with bicycles to ride to schools, uniforms, stationery, and training for teachers. I had to live below the line on $2 a day for five days from May 6 to 10. I also participated in the Mother’s Day Classic Run with Monash University Sports Team on May 12 in Melbourne, which raised a total of $4900 for breast cancer research. For Peter Mac I have has set a personal fundraising goal of 2500 Australian dollars. To help me reach this goal, visit www. conquercancer.org.au to make a donation online, or call 1300 00 RIDE. I am only asking for a small donation, whether it be 100 baiza or 100 riyals. The whole point of such a campaign is to raise awareness and spread the word. Thank you. Samar Al Ma’awali, Conquer Cancer ID Number: 771452-2 Melbourne, Australia
DENNIS AND HIS TEAM were spotted in Al Khoud McDonald’s with a copy of Y
Mohammed Salman Jailbreak is the best. Prajwal Haritsa The best app would be one that can read your brain and install another that would suit the situation you are in at the time.
Winner! Reply of the Week
Mysteriouss Fefe No WhatsApp – no life. Ines FERRARA My favourite app would pick up my kids from school, feed them and put them to bed. QAIS AL BALUSHI An app to do my homework for me. RK JOHNSON A Y app to take me to the destinations without leaving my bed.
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MAY 30 - JUN 05 / ISSUE 272
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YOUR
OMAN
NEWS
Gallery
Interview
MAKING CHILDREN SAFE Car seats donation to National Youth Commission safety initiative
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SUP CAMPA PORT OUR IGN. PETITI SIGN OUR ON O /YTABL N OID
Words: Kate Ginn
t’s a gesture that will help secure the safety of some of Oman’s children and drive home awareness that all parents need to buckle in their little ones. As part of its commitment to the community, Khimji Ramdas Group announced its support of the National Youth Commission’s campaign on child road safety with a donation of 100 car seats to be distributed to families in Salalah next month. These infant seats will form part of 600 to be given away to new parents by the Commission, which has linked up with Y Magazine in a campaign calling for a law to make car seats compulsory in the Sultanate for children under the age of six. Sporting heroes such as footballer and Oman team captain Ali al Habsi and former world rally champion Hamed al Wahaibi have been recruited to take part in the seat donation in June. Last year, 60 children aged between newborn and six were killed in road accidents and a further 566 suffered injuries, according to figures from the Royal Oman Police. A further 62 in the 11-15 year old age group died on the roads. Using a car seat or child restraints reduce child deaths by 35 per cent, research has shown.
A car seat can cost as little as RO19. “We are more than happy to be part of this campaign that aims to spread awareness on safeguarding the lives of our country’s children,” said Nailesh Khimji, director at Khimji Ramdas. Their involvement will play a key role in reinforcing the campaign’s emphasis on the use of car seats as a crucial and first step in child road safety. As well as legislation, the campaign aims to educate parents and children about the use of child car seats, booster seats and seat belts. A spokesman for NYC said the donation would protect the lives of children and “help us achieve our campaign’s aim to raise awareness about the importance of using a properly installed car seat in reducing the risk of death and fatal injuries for babies and children.” The Royal Oman Police had said it has ‘no intention’ of bringing in any law at present, saying it would place too much of a financial burden on large families. Sayyid Nasr Badr Albusaidi, chair of the National Youth Commission’s communications and public relations committee, who is heading up the safety initiative, told Y: “It should be considered a sin if car seats aren’t used.”
A hero’s welcome for Ali Al Habsi
Words: Joe Gill
A
li Al Habsi returned to a hero’s welcome this weekend following his club Wigan Athletic’s FA Cup final victory. Fans, dignitaries and members of his family met him at Muscat airport as the injured goalkeeper arrived for a period of rest and recuperation following an operation on a shoulder injury. It’s a bittersweet end to the season for the Latics, with a victory in the FA Cup final but relegation from the Premier League. Al Habsi said: “I hope I will stay in England. I have two years of my contract to run with Wigan. It depends on the manager. We have a big season next year with 60 games and some important matches in Europe. “In football you have to be ready for everything. We have been relegated (from the Premier League) but maybe it will be a new experience for me. Asked about his injury, he said: “I will be in Oman for
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three weeks and then go back to England. For six weeks I can’t do anything. After six weeks I will start training and exercising, Insha’Allah.” The Oman national team captain will not be playing during two important World Cup qualifiers, but added: “I will be supporting Oman in the important match against Jordan.” Al Habsi’s brother Abdul Aziz told Y that Ali would be spending his time here at the family home in Al-Midhaib. Al Habsi gave a pair of his gloves to the airport firefighters in recognition of his first job before he became a professional footballer. “I wore gloves as a firefighter and I still do as a goalkeeper,” he said. Al Habsi had an operation on his shoulder in the UK before he returned to Oman, and his arm is now supported and bandaged to aid his recovery.
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5/22/13 5:01 PM
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YOUR
Gallery
Interview
OMAN
TURTLE
TIME Sand sculptures celebrate T Day along with baby turtle release
C
Words: Kate Ginn
rafted out of sand, the sculptures captured the essence of the turtle, one of Oman’s natural wonders. These creations were part of a fun event by Shangri-La’s Bar al Jissah Resort & Spa to celebrate World Turtle Day, officially marked on May 23. Seven teams went head-to-head vying for the best sand sculpture, with The Flatback Sea Turtle team emerging triumphant. Afterwards, several baby turtles were released onto the beach to make their way into the sea. The event had a serious message as well, promoting conservation of the sea creature, several species of which have nesting sites in the Sultanate.
ICE BREAKERS New world records top off an amazing journey for the Freezing Omanis and raise awareness
A
s part of their training for a trip to the Antarctic, they spent hours in an industrial freezer trying to acclimatise to the sort of conditions they would expect to encounter.
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MAY 30 - JUN 05 / ISSUE 272
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The punishing routine paid off in March when Ameer Abdulhussain and Bader al Lawati became only the fourth and fifth Omanis to visit the White Continent, the least explored place on Earth. Now the pair, known as the Freezing Omanis, can celebrate another record after being part of a group which collectively set two firsts from the depths of the freezer. From inside the industrial fridge, where temperatures went as low as -20 Celsius, two world records, ‘The Coldest Tweet Up and ‘Most Number of Blogs from a Freezer’, were made. The group, which included among others the Freezing Omanis, Merge 104.8 presenter Rumaitha al Busaidi, and Maurizio Monte from Oman Collective Intelligence, managed to publish all their blogs and tweets despite struggling to type in the chilly conditions and coping with two phones that ‘froze’ in the cold.
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T H E W H AT ’ S O N G U I D E
The Art of Living Oman is running a blood donation camp in association with the Central Blood Bank of Oman and the Hatat Polyclinic on June 7 from 9am until 12.30pm. Go to Hatat House, Wadi Adai Roundabout, to give a drop to others who need it most. For more info call Sangita on 96063261.
June
May
THIS
WEEK MAY
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30 What to do. What to see. What to hear.
J u ne
Rocky RETURNS Black mascara and lipstick, curly black mop and a manic smile that gives you the shivers. Yes, we are talking about The Rocky Horror Picture Show night at the Grand Hyatt Afrah Ballroom presented by Anzo 2013. Come dressed for the part, starting in the Sirj Tea Lounge upstairs from 7pm.
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June
Blood works
Gallery
01-02
Mi Moda Fashion Mi Casa, the Spanish furniture and art specialist in Al Khuwair, is showcasing vibrant fashions including tunics, kaftans, long and short dresses, cardigans in chiffon and cotton, as well as jewellery. Call Tahera on 92631973 for more details. All day 10am-9pm.
Movies
June
Eastern Promise And in case you haven’t quite had your fill of shopping extravaganzas, there are still three more days of the Consumer Exhibition at the OIEC Muscat, with products from Oman, the wider Middle East, India, China and all major Asian producers. From 10pm to 2pm and 4pm to 10pm. Call 93309111/99326173 for more details.
May
04-10
Sohar So Good The Modern Family Shopping Expo opens at the Oman International Exhibition Centre in Sohar this week with all kinds of brands and international retailers showcasing their latest ranges. For more information call OIEC on 24512100 / 93309111 or email oiecoman@omantel.net.com.
June
30 01
Learn the art of meditation over four weeks at the Al Harub Medical Centre in Shatti Al Qurum at 6pm on Monday or 11am on Tuesdays. Sessions are tailored around small groups of men and women – all cultures are welcome. Call Anna to book a session on 96174080. www.alharubmedical.com
Talent Torrent
Can you sing, dance, make us laugh, dress up, act or cook like a celebrity chef Then the Muscat Talent Hunt 2013 wants to see you do your stuff. Sponsored by Peugeot, it takes place over two days from 10am to 8pm at Al Bahja Hall opposite the Jungle restaurant, Qurum. Call 92380382 or 98687960 for details
June 07-08
May
Serenity Sessions 31 When it’s too hot outside and you don’t want to stay indoors, there’s only one thing to do – shop. The whole family can enjoy the first ever Woman Fashion Fiesta at Al Bahja Hall on May 31, with shopping, entertainment and food. For more info email events@axisroyal.com or call 95126063/99197817.
June 01 Last of the Season Indus Challenge Golf isn’t the first thing you associate with the luxurious Indus restaurant at Opera Galleria. But the avant-garde eatery is sponsoring the Indus Challenge at Muscat Hills on June 1. To take part contact alex@muscatgolf. com. RO3 for golf club members and RO25 for non-members.
After its extended 2013 season, the last performance at the Royal Opera House is upon us, and that’s it until the end of summer. See Y on Facebook for the announcement of the autumn season.
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THIS WEEK
MOVIES MOVIES
Hummingbird You usually know what you’re going to get with Jason Statham – but in Hummingbird he stretches his acting ability by playing a homeless British special forces soldier who’s absent without leave on the streets of London. Director Steven Knight takes us out of conventional action thriller territory as we follow Joey Joe’s odyssey through the underworld of the big city. After being attacked by thugs who demand ‘rent’ for his street box, Joey abandons his friend Isobel, a nun, and breaks into a penthouse. Finding it empty, he convalesces, before finding work as a driver for a China Town gangster. There are plenty of moody shots of his character contemplating fate as we see Joey struggle with memories of action in the Middle East and the family who he abandoned and hasn’t seen
for years. Joey is no hero, finding himself involved in human trafficking, the collection of protection money and various other unsavoury scams. For his sins, he occasionally pays for pizzas to be delivered to his old homeless shelter. This all may be a little challenging for some audiences expecting the Statham they know to reappear and swing into action. The pay off is a performance that’s his most emotionally demanding and rewarding for some time, as the actor struggle with his demons in a morally bankrupt world. Action, when it comes, is swift and brutal. You may not particularly like the character he plays, but Hummingbird takes us to places that more conventional thrillers rarely venture. Reviews by Joe Gill
PREVIEW
The Hangover Part III You know a movie franchise is on a roll when the poster just says ‘Part III’ and ‘The End’. If the second movie lacked the fresh originality of the first, the third takes madness to a new level with the focus now on Alan (Zach Galifianakis). The unforgettable Mr Chow also plays a major part in the story – and John Goodman is thrown into the mix as a crime kingpin, but its Melissa McCarthy’s character who steals the show.
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Epic (3D)
Abducted
Naming a film Epic is setting yourself up for a tree-sized fall. The trees actually look great, and the 3D is not bad, but the voices of the characters are wooden (sorry!) and lifeless. Unfortunately Epic tries to be everything – meaningfull, slapstick and, of course, epic, and pays dearly for its sins. As a Ferngully meets Avatar spinoff, it brings nothing original to the genre.
A bossy property tycoon (Lauren Holly) harasses her hard-pressed assistant (Kaylee DeFer), calling her day and night until one day, the calls stop. What she doesn’t know is her boss has been kidnapped while staying in a hotel and is being held hostage by a gang of people traffickers who run a website selling captive women in Russia. Originally made for television, this is a well-acted but predictable drama that manages to paint a believably terrifying situation for its female lead and her co-star.
Y’s Top Two AFTERSHOCK 1
Horror maestro Eli Roth cowrote and stars in this disaster horror flick set in Chile. Roth plays Gringo – yes, he’s American – who is out chasing beautiful girls with his buddies at a nightclub and having a great time until disaster strikes. A huge earthquake brings the party to an abrupt standstill. The rest of the movie sees Roth and pals running the gammet of aftershocks and locals going loco in the wake of the quake. A gruesome death of one variety or another awaits them as the devastated town turns on itself.
Street Dance All-Stars
A gang of feisty preteens decide to organise a charity talent show to save their youth club in East London from being sold. They must overcome rivalries, love interest and the grasping hands of the club’s manager. This is all an excuse for some sensational dance moves from the cast members such as Akai OseiMansfield, who makes up for his tiny size in a single take of mind-blowing moves. The whole thing is surprisingly moving.
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For more information and times, go to: City Cinema: citycinemaoman.net Al Bahja Cinema: albahjacinema.net Star Cinema: Tel +968 24791641
THIS WEEK
The What’s On Guide
Movies
GALLERY
STRONG TOGETHER
Photos by Kate Ginn
africans in oman celebrate 50 years of unity
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MAID
TO SUFFER
Isolated and far from home with no one to turn to, the plight of Ethiopian domestic staff who came to Oman for a new life and end up trapped in a nightmare, is one that cannot be ignored, reports Kate Ginn.
S
he had arrived in Oman from a small town in a remote part of Ethiopia full of hope. Hope that she had secured a good job as a maid in a prosperous country and would be able to send money to her family back home. She believed this fortuitous break might herald some much-needed luck and that a brighter future now beckoned for her far away from the confines of her poverty-stricken African homeland. Her lucky break was in fact being found still alive after being raped and violated by her sponsor and three of his friends and dumped like a piece of rubbish in the desert to die. When some locals came across her, she was bleeding and barely conscious, having spentten days in the desert. Doctors said she only survived because of the unusual prolonged rainy conditions, another piece of luck. Not having friends or family to turn to or any embassy to provide shelter, she was alone and helpless. Without the kindness of strangers, she would have died. Even then, she was arrested and jailed for two months because her Omani sponsor had alerted police in the Interior that she was a ‘runaway’ or absconder. Now imagine this all happening to you when you’re only 16 years old. Not a worldly-wise girl either, but a young, unsophisticated woman who has never left her small town. “She was in a really bad state when we saw her,” says one man, who was involved in helping the girl. “She had been thrown in the desert, thinking that she would just die. “She has tremendous inner strength. If she hadn’t been so strong, she would have passed away in the desert. “What happened to her was really shocking, it made us cry.” While this is one of the more extreme cases, it is sadly not unusual. Hundreds of Ethiopian girls are arriving in Oman each month to work
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as maids, lured away by unscrupulous agencies who sell them the dream of a new life abroad and a salary almost ten times the amount they could earn at home, in a trade described by some as ‘legal human trafficking’. An investigation by Y has uncovered a disturbing picture of vulnerable, young women and exploitation on a large scale, catering to a growing demand for cut-rate domestic staff across the Middle East. Physical, emotional and sexual abuses have been reported. The problem is so severe that the Ethiopian government has imposed a ban on its nationals working in the UAE and Lebanon after a series of complaints about serious abuse. With stricter conditions being imposed on bringing Filipino and Indian domestic helpers to work in Oman, the demand for cheaper workers from other countries has increased. For girls from Ethiopia, where the average salary for a maid is just RO06 a month, it’s an irresistible proposition. They can be seen in the arrivals hall at Muscat Airport, pouring off the four weekly Ethiopian Airlines flights from Addis Ababa, the Ethiopian capital, with a new, cheap-looking suitcase in their hands and a fearful look in their eyes. “The girls are desperate to come here,” says the man, who spoke on the condition of anonymity. “Many have to go abroad to find work to help their families. “They have to pay the middleman to come to Oman, a minimum of RO200, which is a fortune to them. Sadly, most of them are really poor so they sell their possessions, their cows, goats and sheep, everything they have, to get the money.” Many can’t speak Arabic or English, leaving them isolated and lonely. They may not even be able to communicate with other Ethiopians in Oman – there are more than 80 different dialects in the diverse expanse of the country. On top of the culture shock, some come from
such rural and poor areas, they have never seen water from a tap before. They can expect to earn a salary of between RO50-RO60 a month. “Many sponsors treat the maids well, the same as they treat their own daughters, and the girls are really happy,” says the source. “But this is not the case for all of them. Some are being abused. We hear about many rape cases, salaries not being paid, emotional abuse and some of them just go crazy here, they suffer from depression. “Sometimes they are younger than they say. Their passports will be altered, either by them or someone else, to make them older. In some cases, they are just 12 or 13 years old. “When something bad does happen, they don’t have a voice to speak up for them or anywhere to turn. At the very least, they need a consular office here in Oman. If they are being beaten or raped and they run away from their sponsors, they have nowhere to go. “Some turn to prostitution. The number of Ethiopian prostitutes is increasing. I asked some why they are doing it, risking their health, and they say ‘What choice do we have?’ They want to return to their country but can’t because their sponsor or police have their passport.” Y tried to speak to some Ethiopian maids but most are too scared to speak out, fearful of losing their jobs or worse. In a case earlier this year, an Ethiopian maid was found wandering in Ruwi and sleeping rough after leaving her sponsor who hadn’t paid her salary for a few months. In June last year, several Ethiopian workers were stranded at Muscat Airport after their recruiting agents failed to show up. Private labour employment agencies back in Ethiopia arrange the flights, visas and jobs to the Middle East in what has been called ‘contract slavery’ and ‘the maid trade’ by lawyer Khaled Ali Beydoun, an American Egyptian, who has written a paper on the trafficking of
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Ethiopian workers into Lebanon. for by the Oman government and the In Oman, sponsors pay a fee starting from expat community continues to send her RO350 to another agency for finding and money, to pay for the ongoing medical supplying the maid. treatment required. She is still unable to walk Top spots for Ethiopian maids to work in properly and cannot work. The psychological are currently Oman, Saudi Arabia and Kuwait. scars will no doubt take longer to heal. There are stories of maids being ‘sold on’ to other The men who committed the rape and countries without their attacks have never consent. been charged. Another source told Y “It’s horrendous, about scams operated by something needs to be - Located in the Horn of Africa the middleman, somedone to stop this - Bordered by Eritrea to the times in cohorts with happening again,” says north, Djibouti and Somalia to the maids, to abuse the one of the expats who the east, Sudan and South Sudan insurance policy taken helped out. to the west, and Kenya to the south. out by sponsors to cover “This young girl - Most populous landlocked their fee in the first three came to our country country in the world. months should the conand we now have a - Population: 85 million tract not work out. With responsibility to her and - Capital: Addis Ababa the scam, the maids run all the others that came - Official language: Amharic away or deliberately try here to work too.” - Religion: Christianity and to get sacked soon after Ultimately, it is up to the Islam the three-month period Ethiopian government to - Ethiopians currently living in has expired. The sponsor establish an embassy or Oman: 20,000 is left out of pocket, unconsular office, or impose able to claim back their conditions to help their fee, and has to fork out another RO350 for a new women workers at risk abroad. maid. Until then, young women will continue to Despite the trauma she suffered, the teenage be at risk. girl in our story was one of the lucky ones. She “People need to know what is going on,” is back in Ethiopia after the expat community, said one supporter. “Hopefully it will change. It fellow Ethiopians and other nationalities rallied has to change. These girls are so desperate to go round to help. to Oman but sometimes they pay a high price Her Omani medical bill of RO100,000 was paid to come here.”
ETHIOPIA FACT BOX
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W h o Ta l k s To H o r s e s
HE MA
Meet the former circus performer, trick rider and Royal Cavalry OMAN instructor who has a magic touch with his equine charges Words: Kate Ginn Photos: Jerzy Wierzbicki
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nder of the glare of spotlights cutting through the humid Oman night air, two horses and a man are working together in a sandy riding arena. Something extraordinary is happening. Watching Guido Louis interacting with horses is to witness a remarkable process. It is as though there is a strange sort of alchemy at work, creating a tangible bond between man and animal, an instinctive understanding of each other. It’s very quiet, just the odd bird screeching out into the darkness. Guido is hardly making a sound when he communicates with his horses, talking to them through a series of whistles, clicks, a flick of a training stick and the odd softly spoken word. A slight figure, he looks tiny next to the towering, muscular animals and yet, he has them completely under his command. They move, turn and go to him as if under a spell and in a way they are. Guido, who once performed in a circus and had his own stunt riding show, is a practitioner in the art of natural horsemanship, the use of non-verbal language to communicate with and train the animals, which has become known as ‘horse whispering’. It’s a term that became popular following the book The Horse Whisperer by Nicholas Evans, which was turned into a 1998 film of the same name starring Robert Redford. Although it is not an expression Guido uses, watching him in action does bring the phrase to mind. “It’s my job to understand what the horse is feeling and why he is doing what he’s doing,” says Guido. “Horses don’t speak with words but they speak with their body language all the time. It’s all about interpreting what they are saying. “You have to read them, primarily through observation. It’s the same whether it’s for people or animals, you learn by observing.” He jumps up on the large dark bay,
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Mod, and rides him bareback and without a bridle around the arena, man and horse melding together as if one. Guido, who was born in Holland to a Dutch mother and Indonesian father, first sat on a horse when he was five and had his first lesson two years later. At 18, he bought his first horse. By then, he had already left home to join the circus, and later trained with the famous Russian Cossack trick riders before going on to run his own equine stunt show. He appeared at shows all over the world, including the Horse of the Year Show UK and the Omani Royal Equestrian event, where he performed for His Majesty Sultan Qaboos. Now, as an instructor and performer with the Royal Cavalry Oman, based at their headquarters in Muscat, he teaches a squad of a dozen or so soldiers to
perform at equestrian shows in the Sultanate and abroad. He can often been seen exercising the horses along Seeb beachfront and galloping through the shallow water. He lives at the stables with his Tunisian wife, Amira. Three of his horses came with him to Oman from the UK – Mod, nine, Tosca, a 16-year-old dappled grey, and Xiado, his beloved Portuguese stallion. He treats them all as if there his children, checking on them at night to clean out their bedding and make sure their air-conditioned stable is at the right temperature. “You need to create mutual trust, respect and confidence,” says Guido. “It’s easy to misunderstand the behaviour of a horse, why they are behaving in a certain way or not doing what you want.
Horses don’t speak with words but they speak with their body language all the time. It’s all about interpreting what they are saying
“If a horse isn’t responding to a command, there’s no point getting angry or aggressive, it’s not going to make the horse do what you want. “You have to control the vibe. You have to understand their reaction, perhaps they are nervous or something has caught their eye.” Techniques of natural horsemanship are based on observing free roaming horses and how they respond in their own habitats. “It’s not just about watching what a horse does, although you can do that,” says Guido, caressing Mod, who nuzzles up close to him, clearly revelling in the attention. Ears pinned back on a horse, for instance, is a sign of anger while snorting could be a sign of uncertainty. “The end result you are looking for
is that in the horse’s eyes, you are not a predator but a protector. “It takes time to build up trust but when it comes, it happens faster than you think. “Some horses work for you out of love, some just out of obedience. I don’t use treats but the reward is lots of love.” With a click of his tongue and a light tap of the training stick, he asks Tosca to rear up on his hind legs. After gentle coaxing, the magnificent animal rises up in one wonderfully fluid move. When not doing this, Guido can be found training stunts for the next Royal Cavalry appearance in Oman. Performing in front of a large crowd while doing thrilling tricks and stunts atop his horse still clearly gets the adrenalin flowing.
“You have no idea what it feels like to sit on a horse and be admired by lots of people because you can stand on your head on horseback,” he says. He demonstrates by leaping on Mod and standing on his back and riding around the arena. Other tricks include riding through fire, crawling around the belly of a horse while galloping at full pelt, and riding Roman style – known as one of the most difficult of stunts, where a rider stands atop a pair of horses with one foot on each horse. His best trick is riding four tethered horses and jumping abreast. Forming a human pyramid on horseback is a specialty he has recently taught the Royal Cavalry to perform. It involves 10 people on four horses in a human tower over six metres high, and was the first time
that Oman saw anything like it, let alone performed by the Omani team. Next month, the Cavalry stunt team – horses and riders – will up sticks and move to Salalah to escape the suffocating heat of the summer months. The demonstration for Y is over. It’s time to put the horses to bed and let their master get some sleep. He has to be up for work at 5.30am. “I am happiest when I’m out here with my horses and they are happy,” he says. “Not many men would maybe say it, but I like the romantic notion of being out riding in the moonlight with the night breeze and just me and the horses, and I’m not ashamed to admit it.” /YTABLOID for photo * Go to gallery and videos MAY 30 – JUN 05 / ISSUE 272
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BUSINESS & CAREER
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Networking
Minute Mentoring
We all know that change is hard. It’s unsettling, it’s time-consuming, and all too often we give up at the first sign of a setback. But change is always easier when you know where you are going and why it’s worth it. If the task is a mammoth one, break it down to manageable chunks and implement an action plan – starting today!
Recommended Read Who Moved My Cheese is an international bestseller by Spencer Johnson that helps people deal with change. The classic allegory tells the story of four mice living in a maze. They face an unexpected change when they discover their cheese has disappeared but each deals with the situation differently. The moral of the tale? Adapt and survive. 026
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Networking
Minute Mentoring
A NEW Chapter Who do you want to be? Penny Fray speaks to an expert who can help you embrace change and live your dream life.
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id you wake up this morning feeling confident and happy about where your life’s heading or did you feel tired and apprehensive? Sometimes the plans you’ve made for your life, career or relationships can suddenly need dramatic adjustment. Like medicine, change can do you good but taste bad. The agony of resisting change, however, is far worse. But breaking routine, taking chances and chasing your ideal life isn’t always easy. “Change is scary and trying to live your dreams is scary too,” confirms personal and executive coach Dr Nicola Bunting. “What if you fail? What if it brings you up against challenges that might feel too hard? I think you need real clarity of vision, dedicated commitment, a structured plan and support to navigate change successfully and live your dreams.” According to the expert, fear has to be conquered, time taken to consider your options and panic avoided to get on the right path. “People can miss the very real opportunity to turn a change into something wonderful by not taking the time to understand what they really, truly want and how they will get there,” continues Nicola. “For example – if you lose your job, rather than taking time to clarify what your ideal career is, you jump at whatever job opportunity is offered to you next as a quick, easy solution, even if you’ve been unhappy in your last job.” That’s why Nicola has developed a holistic and practical step-by-step guide to get you through any kind of major change in your life in her new book – Who Do You Want To Be? Incorporating successful strategies from years of experience working with high-profile clients and companies such as Chanel, Proctor & Gamble and Whitbread, her aim is to help people visualise the lives that they want. Here are her top tips for transformation: Be inspired daily: Make a list of several things you can do each week that will lift your spirits and enhance your life. Try laughing with a friend, reading an inspiring book or creating a ‘happy’ DVD. The list is personal to you and endless. Plan ahead. Create a clear vision of where you want your life and work to be in ten years’ time, five years’ time, next year and so forth. What do you need to do each year/month/ week/day to create your vision? If you take baby steps, you will gradually increase the momentum and feel more and more inspired. The daily drudgery will decrease. At the end of every day, reflect on what you enjoyed and what you’re grateful for and what you did well. This exercise, if done regularly, will orient you more towards happiness and satisfaction and help you enjoy each day more Celebrate every little achievement, every little step. Take time to recognize and enjoy your successes
C oNen n e c t e d
twork fro with Y’s newm your desk weekly profile Name: Khayeru nisaa Abbas .
Position: Man aging Director/ N at Steps4ward LLC LP Coach & Tra iner Benefits: Will al w ay s tailor any coachi training and develo ng, HR or requirements withinpment solutions to fit your business Character: Cus the agreed timeframes. approachable and tomer-centric, passionate, enthusia stic, Would Like Tsolution orientated o M ee t: Anyone who needs coaching needs, H to disc Contact me oR advice or training and developmen uss n: khayerunisaa.a t bbas@steps4ward.solutions. com
WHAT THE EXPERTS SAY:
POSITIVE VISUALISATION “You can change your life for the better by re-thinking your successes and thinking of what you want as if you already have it.” Jenni Eden, Oman Life Coach
POWER OF INTENTION “If you just think about getting what you want, you’ll stay in a state of wanting. Far better to be proactive and consider how you get what you intend to create.” Cucuil Stedmann, executive coach for Corporate Wellbeing Oman
BUSINESS BUY “There is no time, sir, at which ties do not matter.” So says Jeeves in PG Wodehouse’s novel ‘Impending Doom’. And we agree. No matter what Richard Branson says, wearing a tie is not just a symbol of respect – it’s the ultimate business accessory. No besuited man should leave home without one. For obvious reasons, we particularly love this turtle print one from Salvatore Ferragamo – from RO80.
Pick it, pair it, knot it, rock it – ties are back in vogue this year. Just make sure yours is narrow and bold in blue.
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food and drink
SPEC IAL O B U If y Y o ONE G FFER coc u f kta anc il w y t ET ON – p Hy resen ith a rying a E Y d tt’s J t it to frien Y ma rin ohn the d, c gaz FRE E in Ba ba ut t ks
e o ha for t? O th rry B r staff ut th ’s hip ffe e pr ar a at is v ne Ter m r end ice o nd y the G ouch w s & s on f one ou’l ran er, cond Jun . Ho l get d ition e 30 w c two s ap , 20 ool ply. 13. is
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SAY HELLO TO YOUR NEW FAVOURITE DRINK…
If you’re tired of your usual tipple, or fancy getting into something sensationally cool ahead of the summer months – try the Y mocktail – now exclusively available at The Grand Hyatt’s John Barry Bar.
TREND New Restaurant
News
LIQUID ASSETS
GRAND
SALE
The art of bespoke cocktails – Penny Fray discovers why Muscat’s most stylish socialites should be investing in individuality.
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hen writing the famous ‘shaken not stirred’ line, Ian Fleming sipped on a Martini specially created for him by the bar staff at Dukes in London. Not to be outdone, Y magazine has just commissioned it’s own custom crafted cocktail. We asked the genius mixologist Dirk Holscher at the John Barry Bar, Grand Hyatt Muscat, to shake up a fruity little number just for us. After all, mocktails made from scratch according to a client’s personality and taste is uber trendy at the moment. Of course, from the ateliers of Paris to London’s Saville Row, bespoke has its roots in clothing – but the trend for one offs now extends to stationary, phones and even drinks. The cynical might say it’s simply a reaction to the ubiquity of, well, pretty much anything these days. Others suggest that it’s simply good to have something that reflects you and your tastes. “The concept of the custom-made cocktail celebrates the customer’s individuality,” says Garry Friend, The Grand Hyatt Muscat’s general manager. “They’ve become the must-have accessory for the sophisticated socialite who has everything bar their own bespoke beverage. We’re happy to make one for someone with advanced notice.” Of course, they first need to be commissioned before an expert’s love and attention can be poured into them, including measurements, fresh ingredients and a presentation that wouldn’t look out of place in a contemporary art gallery. “We’re happy to create signature cocktails for groups and special occasions but we require a bit of advance notice,” confirms Dirk. Come July, clients can even get a snazzy gift voucher with the recipe to boot – great for gift giving. Y magazine’s cocktail is a blend of passion fruit, pineapple juice and peach bitters with shaved ice and fresh fruit for garnish. “I wanted to reflect the fact that the magazine is cool, fresh and refreshing with the right balance of sweet (light, lifestyle stories) and sour (serious, thought-provoking issues),” says Dirk. “The overall look of the cocktail is light, bright and appealing.”
Dirk Holscher making a ‘Y’
If you want to create Y magazine’s exclusive cocktail at home, here’s how: Ingredients: R 3 dash peach bitters R 1 part passion fruit puree R ½ part pineapple juice R ½ fresh passion fruit and a slice of fresh pineapple to garnish Method R Pour all the ingredients except the garnish into the blender. R Blend until smooth. R Fill some flaked ice into a martini glass and strain into the glass. R Garnish with passion fruit and pineapple.
SHOWROOMS: OC CENTRE, RUWI (TEL: 24786596) CENTRE POINT, AL KHUWAIR (TEL: 24603542), FANJA HOUSE, QURUM OPP AL KHAMIS PLAZA (TEL 24560086)
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review N e w R e s t a u r a n t
News
Budget
Info Box
Address: Seeb, Hail Al `Aamir, Muscat Mon - Thu: 11:00 am - 12:00 am Fri: 5:00 pm - 12:00 am Sat - Sun: 11:00 am - 12:00 am Outside seating from 5pm Phone number: 9361 3740 /kiwicafeoman Price (for two with drinks): RO4.6
KIWI COOL
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The roadside café that serves old-style burgers with a view like no other is gaining cult status in Muscat, says Kate Ginn
here can be few better endorsements old-fashioned hot dogs – chicken, camel and even for the power of word of mouth ostrich. recommendation than the Kiwi Café. The manager’s recommendation is the Sunrise, It never advertises and doesn’t even a thick burger with egg and bacon, topped with have a website but this tiny eaterie, little more jalapenos, pickles and a secret sauce. than a shack by the side of the road, has quickly All the other tables were taken, with a mixed gained a reputation as a seriously cool hangout crowd of young men in dishdash, a family with since it opened in December. young kids and some expats from The Wave just The chairs are plastic, the menu is limited and down the road. the setting is not exactly salubrious but that’s You can see your order being cooked through the appeal. Every night, the Kiwi is packed the open windows in a small, clean kitchen, with people enjoying the unique al fresco dining where smartly dressed and organised staff man a experience. production line. There really is nothing quite like it in Muscat It takes around 20 minutes to cook up your or, indeed, Oman, judging by its fanatical order, giving you time to sit back and take in the Facebook following. view, a busy roundabout with cars zipping past It certainly has the old-time American a few yards away. At night, the car headlights roadside diner vibe down pat, with a laid-back provide extra illumination. unpretentious ambience and chefs wearing It all might sound a bit unappetising but it adds traditional white paper hats. up to the sense of fun and surrealism about the If you didn’t know better, it would be easy to Kiwi Café. simply drive past the Kiwi Café and carry on hunting for somewhere It’s not so much about the food, which when it comes is hot and VERDICT: else to grab food. But that’s part of the thrill of eating there, knowing tasty, but the experience as a whole. There is no cutlery, the service that you are part of a club who realise it’s one of the best-kept can be frustratingly slow at busy times but the setting is eccentric 10 secrets in town. The thinking is that if you don’t stop, then you’re and the staff are chatty and accommodating. My steak and cheese Tasty, fun fast not cool enough to eat there anyway. sandwich was a sublime melt-in-the-mouth mix while my fellow food and great Although it is open for lunch, it’s infinitely better visiting at night. meat-lover was more than happy with the burger. If you have value for Evening suits the Kiwi Café. room for dessert, there’s only one on offer – a chocolate brownie, money It’s not the sort of place you can book, so everyone just rocks which comes sealed in a plastic bag. It tastes better than it looks but up when the stomach demands and takes a seat at one of the eight it’s nothing special. or so white plastic tables. The menu is simple – burgers, hot dogs and steak For those who wonder about the name, the Kiwi is not so-called because it sandwiches with fries, washed down with a soda, all freshly cooked to order. is owned by a New Zealander or someone with a particularly penchant for the Those in a hurry can drive up and take away instead. little green, hairy fruit. My dining companion went for the Royale single burger (RO1.5), while I had According to the joint owner, who used to run a supermarket, it was simply my carnivorous eyes on a house favourite steak and cheese sandwich. Extras the first fruit name they got to which hadn’t already been used to name a such as grilled onions can be added for 100 baiza. restaurant. So the Kiwi Café it became. All the burgers are 100 per cent New Zealand beef chuck and there’s also I’m so glad it did. The Banana Café just wouldn’t be the same.
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HEALTH& BEAUTY
Health
Beauty
FASHION
FUNNY SUNNIES
Shade yourself from the desert sun in a pair of statement sunglasses. Instantly adding the cool factor to any outfit, they’re also one of the season’s most practical must-haves. But don’t play it too safe this summer because the most fashionable frames make an impact with retro shapes, prints and patterns. Model wears a selection of statement sunnies from TK Maxx.
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Did you know? Sunglasses first gained commercial success in the 1930s when movie stars started wearing them to protect their eyes from harsh studio lights.
SHADY LADY Sometimes all you need to update your summer wardrobe is a statement pair of sunglasses, says Penny Fray.
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ou hide behind sunglasses like a pop star at an airport. You daren’t drop your shield for fear of being blinded by the strength of Oman’s sun. Of course, you also need to banish those purple beasts, otherwise known as your eyes. When you’re suffering from a serious lack of sleep, nothing beats bags like a pair of shades – not even YSL’s Touché Éclat. When it comes to ‘sunnies’, whether you’re an eyewear monogamist or collector, this season’s stylish array of shades will surely inspire you to shop until your drop. Retro continues to rock in 2013 with the rounded frames of the 1920s and the cats-eyes of the 1950s – they remain two of eyewear’s most stylish shapes. When it comes to replicating the Jazz Age look, you can’t beat the craftsmanship of Cutler & Gross, although Acne comes a close second on the cool barometer. The high street does well in mimicking the nouveau Gatsby style, especially H&M and Zara. Meanwhile the 1950s – fashion’s favourite era – continues to be favoured by everyone from Tom Ford to Prada. They may have been around awhile but cats-eyes continue to be big news, especially if they have something extra like a pop of colour or print. I particularly love the matte black tortoise acetate ones from Maison Martin Margiela. Mango does a more affordable (and wearable) version at RO11. Another vintage silhouette that doesn’t seem to be shifting is the big, Jackie O-inspired oval frame. The Row, Chanel and Victoria Beckham, to name but a few, all clung loyally to the ubiquitous style – and likewise the high street keeps embracing them like an ‘ab-fab’ aunt. If you want to look classic yet cool, then the obvious choice is the wayfarer. They’ve been spotted on everyone from singing starlets to festival-goers every year – but the fashion forward know that you have to have a printed pair à la Acne for them to truly pop. Less outré hipsters, however, should stick to Ray-Ban’s aviators – they’re the ultimate investment.
Follow in Marilyn Monroe’s fifties footsteps with these cats-eyes glasses from Mango. RO11
Out of the Shadows:
Oh how we love these rounded glasses from H&M. They ooze hip appeal. From RO8
Big, bold and beautiful – these gradient lenses from Guess are guaranteed to make you look glamorous.
These cool coloured frames by Marcel Wanders for M&S make the perfect statement without breaking the bank. From RO16
Everyone from Jennifer Aniston and Diane Kruger to Sarah Jessica Parker and Angelina Jolie have worn Ray-Ban aviators – they’re the ultimate investment buy.
Studded wayfarers from Valentino, available from RO210 at Marchon.
PENNY’S GUIDE TO ROCKING SHADES
1 The right pair of sunnies can transform an outfit from average to sensational, so it pays to find the style that suits your signature look. 2 Frames that work with your facial shape are also important. As a general rule of thumb - rounded styles suit angular and square faces, while a rectangular shape will make rounded features look longer and leaner. Those of you who have oval faces – mabrook – most frames will look great on you. 3 A new V eye P Boutique is opening at The Opera Galleria tomorrow. Why not visit to get an idea of what styles best suit you? MAY 30 - JUN 05 / ISSUE 272
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HEALTH& BEAUTY
CLEARING THE CLUTTER Streamline your wardrobe to make morning dressing even simpler, says Penny Fray.
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B ea u ty
Fashion
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here’s the faux snakeskin skirt that’s never seen the light of day, the white body con dress that’s several sizes too small and the ‘it’ll pay for itself ’ designer handbag that’s just too valuable to carry. So many fashion follies, so little closet space. I’m currently on my seventh wardrobe and yet only ever forage in the spare bedroom’s ensuite (now used as an overspill closet). Thankfully, I’m not the only hopeless hoarder around. According to research, the average woman owns about 100 items of clothing, yet only wears a third of them. The rest are left to gather dust because – let’s be honest here – the wardrobe purge is just too painful. Not only will you have to admit that the content of your closets cost more than a small Omani villa, you will also have to acknowledge you’ll never fit into a size eight again. Sigh. Nevertheless, it’s time for a much-needed fashion exorcism. “Many women have an emotional attachment to clothes – but one of the biggest reasons for hoarding items that don’t fit is the hope that someday they might,” says Muscat-based image consultant Helen Ingram. “According to research by diet company Slim Fast, 53% of women have clothes spanning three or more different dress sizes.” Sorting a messy wardrobe may not top your list of summer chores but it will ultimately save you both time and money. Start the process by going through the contents of your closet piece by piece, purging according to colour, style and size. “Aim to end with three piles – clothes to keep, clothes you might keep (if altered, for example) and clothes that must go (choose a charity, or sell them at a garage sale),” says Helen. After storing the garments you do not need, separate your wardrobe into categories such as trousers, tops and dresses. If necessary, break sections down further into colour, material and hem length. This will ensure a tidy and organised closet and any unnecessary wardrobe clutter. “Always use the correct hangers,” adds Helen. “Wire hangers are not suitable for any fabric, so swap them for sturdy plastic ones or wooden ones for heavier garments. Store your delicate silks on padded hangers, and fold heavy knits.” Keep all your paired up socks in single rows on one side of a drawer and your undergarments on the other to make it easy to see what you need. Expensive lingerie should be stored in paper or silk bags to stop them getting tangled with everything else. Slips, singlets and camisoles should also be stored in a separate drawer. That way you can grab one quickly without rummaging through all your other clothes. Handbags and shoes should be stored and stacked in clear boxes or placed on a rack. This will keep them neat, scuff free and visible. Meanwhile, belts and jewellery can hang on hooks inside your wardrobe doors. Now you have a clear view of what to choose from, you can easily assess what goes together and what new items you may need. To make your wardrobe work harder for you, consider choosing your daily outfit the night before, and lay it out with matching shoes and accessories,” says Helen. To stay on trend, add essential pieces to your existing wardrobe at the start of every season and replace classic items that are showing wear and tear. Getting an old ‘favourite’ properly fitted or dry-cleaned can make a world of difference to your closet, according to the expert. When it comes to dealing with discards, decide whether to donate, swap or consign to storage. If you have time and fairly decent pieces, it’s worth selling them online. There are loads of resale sites out there – the most popular being eBay. Otherwise, consider getting some cash back with garage sales and swishing (or swapping) parties. But check the condition first. Turn items inside out and look for flaws such as moth holes, fading, stains and bobbling. Time-poor professionals and philanthropists should always donate pieces to their favourite charity. Anything you want to keep must be carefully stored. Don’t keep any items simply for ‘best’ - by the time you get round to wearing them, they’ll probably be out of date,” concludes Helen.
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B ea u ty
Fashion
PIECES EVERY CLOSET SHOULD HAVE 1.
A basic yet great quality white t-shirt in cotton or silk.
The perfect fit 2. jeans will help you feel fabulous.
3. The little black dress
that works hard season after season needs to be simple yet ever so stylish.
leather 4. The tote that
oozes classic style. If you can afford it, invest in a forever bag by Hermes, Chanel or YSL.
5. The ballet
pump – comfortable, classic and tres cute.
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CARS AND OUTDOORS
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OUTDOORS
GREEN MOUNTAIN
It’s an hour from Muscat and 1800 metres up - Wakan Village is a perfect place to escape the summer heat. Get out of the car and stretch your legs as you enjoy the cooler air.
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Destination
Al Wakan Village When the heat is on, this oasis of green in Wadi Mistal makes a great day out, writes Jerzy Wierzbicki 038
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We made our way up the path to higher ground and enjoyed a cooling mountain breeze. The way was lined with crumbling terraces, verdant shrubs, small pomegranate trees and vines. Birds twittered and white butterflies fluttered among the flowers. Trop cooled off by jumping into the waters of the falaj at every opportunity. I focused my camera on the details of the flowers and the sand-walled houses. After climbing several hundred metres, we took a breather to catch the breeze and admire the panoramic view of the peaks and the villages below. I tried to catch the butterflies on film but it was trickier than expected. Eventually, I found one kind enough to pose for me. At the end of the path on the way down, we met two very kind, elderly Omanis and stopped to chat. It’s the kind of welcome you can expect when you make your escape from the summer heat to Al Wakan.
HOW TO GET THERE
travel guide
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t was 2pm on a hot, humid Muscat afternoon. I was sweltering in 41 degrees and the call of the mountains was overwhelming. I jumped in my car and headed for the hills, with a particular place in mind. Knowing I would be hiking, I kept my load fairly light – just one camera and two fixed lenses, and an excited Trop in tow. Al Wakan is a favourite retreat for city dwellers not just because it’s only about an hour away from the city, but because it’s designed for visitors. Once off the main road you drive 30km to the village. Most of the way is asphalt but the last few kilometres are gravel track. Located 1800 metres above sea level at the end of Wadi Mistal, the small village is a great spot for taking the mountain air. A paved footpath takes you from the picturesque village up into the slopes, where you can enjoy the greenery, silence and views. Although still 40C up here, it was dramatically less humid than Muscat.
Go toward Barka and in Barka turn left toward Rustaq. After around 60 km follow the road sign to Wadi Mistal. The asphalt road finishes after around 20km. You really need a 4x4 with reduction because the last few kilometres is a rough track with steep bends. Park your car in the village and then take the footpath into the mountains. Al Wakan GPS location : N23⁰08’24” E57⁰44’8” MAY 30 - JUN 05 / ISSUE 272
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OUTDOORS WWi i- -FFi i OUTDOORS
Big Splash in
Snake Canyon
Joe Gill gets a rush as he joins a group of novices on a canyoning adventure
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am standing on a rock looking down into an aquamarine pool and I am about to get wet. I have joined a group of plucky holidaymakers making our way through Snake Canyon, the spectacular, high-walled gorge that carves its way through the mountains of Wadi Bani Awf. It’s not a huge drop, but if you have ever leapt off a high diving board you will know the giddy feeling you experience before you jump. Wearing a life jacket and helmet, it’s the moment of truth for this canyoning novice. I breathe deeply, shout at my fears and jump. In a few seconds I will be submerged and baptised. When I come up to the surface, my companions are clapping, and I feel a rush of elation and relief. The water is surprisingly warm. I squelch out in my wet trainers onto the rocks and wait for the next person to follow me. The canyoning party is led by Rob Gardner, Muscat Diving and Adventure Centre’s veteran adventure leader and human goat. That’s a
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complement, because Rob makes his way through the occasionally treacherous twists and drops of the canyon like a man in his natural terrain. The fact that he’s been through the canyon some 90 times may have something to do with it. Canyoning, it has to be said, is huge fun. We were on the easy trek – two hours and a bit of climbing, jumping and slipping down natural, erosioncarved slides into the pools below, with the odd scrape along the way. Snake Canyon is a favourite for the adventureloving canyoners of Oman, and fully deserves its popularity. There are many occasions when we had to stop and look up at the rock formations in wonder. The walls of the canyon provide protection from the harsh sun. The coldest water is never that cold, while some pools are a balm for tired muscles. A high point is swimming through the ‘cave’ created by sediment from water that drips from the rocky sides of the gorge, and emerging on the other side. After this ‘easy’ trek, abseiling down Snake Canyon
Photos: Eddy Younes HOW TO GET THERE
If you take a tour with MDAC, they will lead to you to Snake Canyon. The drive is two hours from Muscat. Drive toward Barka. In Barka follow signs to Rustaq, and drive for around 80km. Just before Rustaq you will see a brown sign pointing left to Wadi Bani Awf. Follow this road for about 35km until you reach a small village where the road divides. Behind the village, drive a few hundred metres until you reach the entrance to Snake Canyon. GPS location for entrance to canyon: N23°12’47.7” E57°24’13.5”
‘2’ – which joins the big canyon about half way along its length – awaits those eager to come back for more. The two via ferrata in Snake Canyon were closed in January last year due to the danger of accidents. According to the Ministry of Tourism website: “Anyone using these installations does so at their own risk.” The great thing about canyoning is that you don’t need particular skills to do it – just reasonable fitness and an adventurous spirit. There are risks, such as flooding – each year there is an average of around one fatality in these canyons – and those of a nervous disposition should not attempt it. I fell, twisted my ankle and hurt my shoulder when I slipped trying to jump from one rock to another. Tiredness can set in and the risks of injury rise accordingly. If you were to suffer a serious injury, there are teams of specialists who will come and get you out. Like any action-oriented pastime, you have to take the right precautions before you start. Bad preparation is an unforgivable sin, says Gardner.
A new road has recently been built to the entrance to one side of the gorge, making it more straightforward to get there. Previously it required a drive along the rocky wadi. By the end of the day, this group of relative strangers had bonded through the challenges and the thrills we had shared on our Snake Canyon adventure. If you’ve got it in you, you would be mad not to do this at least once. The risk, however, is that – like anything that takes you to the edge – you could become an addict. Muscat Diving and Adventure Centre run a range of outdoor activities including scuba diving, sea kayaking, abseiling, mountain trekking and wet wadi walks. The canyoning trip from Muscat costs RO59 including pick up and return and lunch, or RO20 if you drive your own 4x4 vehicle. It’s time to get wet. MAY 30 - JUN 05 / ISSUE 272
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Photo by Jerzy Wierzbicki
The LowDown
EXPLORING
Al Wadi Al Kabir The Good, The Bad & The Ugly
Al Wadi Al Kabir wasn’t always the hub of industry that it is today. Some residents would prefer it had stayed as it was – a quiet neighbourhood where expats and locals lived and grew up together. The area has developed rapidly in recent years as an industrial and warehousing hub. Everything from huge breaker yards to printing presses and factories can be found here. Inevitably this means lots of big trucks thundering in and out at all times of day. You can see local workers lining up on the side of the roads in the early morning waiting to be taken to work. Despite its industrial character, the area feels relatively green and open thanks to the mountain views and the attractively manicured avenues and roundabouts.
Living There It’s not among the most desirable locations in the capital, although compared to Ruwi it is green and spacious, and is overlooked by the mountains. Pakistani and Indian workers live in the generally low-cost housing typical of the area. Accommodation includes flats above shops, low-rise apartment buildings and single-storey houses. Rent for a two-bedroom place is generally around RO250. 042
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The area seems to be populated with more car workshops and work sheds than people. It contains some of the largest warehouses in the city, many of them full of car parts for various international vehicle brands. The skills of the people working here mean they can rebuild total wrecks that have been towed here after some terrible accidents. Construction suppliers and interior design suppliers are also plentiful. Being on the edge of the city, it’s also handy for a quick getaway to the coastal areas of Qantab and Al Bustan.
Al Wadi Al Kabir is a place of contrasts – in the shadow of the mountains are breaker yards, warehouses and an old Muscat neighbourhood.
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Why I live here: I have been living in Wadi Kabir since I was 11. The local families living here are really friendly – we used to play with their children. But it has changed a lot recently with lots of the old residents leaving, which is sad. Bobby Balushi, resident
HangOuts There are a large number of two and three star hotels and a few wellknown local Indian restaurants such as the Kohinoor. The old Sheraton hotel seems to have been under renovation for as long as anyone can remember. It has been said that some of the downmarket hotels are on the sleazy side, offering cheap drinking and fast entertainment to their clients. As well as cheap curry houses, you are very close to Ruwi on one side and Al Bustan Palace and the Marina Bandar Al Rowdha on the other for more refined dining. For outdoors, Al Wadi Al Kabeer Park is one of the few large public spaces where people can relax and hang out.
Places of Interest The Indian School Al Wadi Al Kabir caters for the junior and senior age children of many expat families living here. The area is also a hub for the national media with many newspaper offices. Repro houses produce a lot of the outdoor advertising and shop signs for the city, while the National Hospitality Institute offers training to the hotel sector.
Shopping Whether you are looking for a sari or a new electric fan, there are loads of independent retailers catering for most of your domestic needs. There is also a large LuLu hypermarket bang in the middle of Al Wadi Al Kabir. You are also only five minutes from the shopping and downtown business area of Ruwi. As for second hand cars and repairs, this is the place to go.
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-FI THE TECH IN YOU
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WI-FI
PET PAMPERING
Whether they’re man’s best pal or your feline friend, ditch the usual boring treats and try animal hi-tech instead, says Kate Ginn Clean Kitty It might look like the Death Star from Star Wars but this odd little machine is actually the future of cat boxes. With the Litter-Robot and some smart engineering, you never have to clean out a tray again. This selfcleaning device works with a weight sensor, activated when a moggy steps inside. After seven minutes, if the sensor hasn’t been activated again, the globe begins to spin so that gravity pushes the litter over a sieve to separate the clumps. It’s all dispensed into a plastic bag at the bottom, which can be pulled out, tied up and thrown away. Simple! A bag lasts a week. Y loves this and might buy one for our rescued street cat, Sabco. Only two drawbacks – the size (29x22x24inches) and the price, $329 (RO127). www.litter-robot.com
Cool Cat (and canine) Taking Fido or Felix to the vets means a journey in a car and during the scorching summer months in Oman, it is going to be hot. While you enjoy the airconditioning, it might not be so much fun for your pet sitting in a plastic box in the back of the car. Worry no more. The Komfort Pets Carrier offers air con for your cat or small dog on the move. This climate-controlled carrier features a fan, which kicks in when the temperature goes over 21 Celsius and gently blows cool air around. From around RO57. Available from Amazon.
On the move You have a GPS system for your car, so why not for your pooch or pussy? Keeping track of your beloved pet when they’re roaming around outside is easy with the Garmin GTU 10. Small and lightweight, it attaches to a pet collar with Velcro. The whereabouts of your beloved pet can then be monitored via your computer or a smartphone app. It looks pretty smart too. From RO51 at Amazon.
EDITOR’S star pick WALKIES! Ok, it’s ridiculously indulgent and horribly expensive but we love this Jog A Dog treadmill. Nothing beats a good walk outdoors but during the heat and humidity of summer when it’s too hot for your furry mutt, this is a good substitute. Designed for dogs, the side guardrails ensure there are no mishaps and the 11-degree incline is said to provide a good workout for all four legs. Starting at RO460. jogadog.com
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FIND OUT WHAT’S HIP & HAPPENING IN GADGETS VIRTUAL PETTING There’s nothing quite like taking home an adorable puppy or kitten. If you don’t have the space or room for a new furry friend, you can get the next best thing with the nintendogs + cats on the Nintendo 3DS™ system. It allows you to have all the fun of a pet without the hassle. Feed them, buy them new outfits and even take them out for a walk, without leaving the comfort of your air-conditioned home – all in eye-popping 3D. With a touch screen, camera and microphone you can interact with your pet in amazing ways. Great fun for kids and kidults alike. Game from around RO7 and console RO63 on Amazon.
APP OF THE WEEK
NEW! Cat Tantalizer Never worry about leaving your cherished cat at home alone in the daytime any more. With this neat little toy, they won’t be missing you one bit. In fact, they’ll probably be annoyed when you do come back and interrupt their play. This solarpowered gadget – perfect for sunny Oman – scooped a best cat product award in a pet magazine recently, so it’s guaranteed to have your kitty purring with delight.
Google Hangouts is a great way to chat with friends and family at home or at the other side of the world. Now Google has unified its Android messaging app with iPhone and iPad so you can message, share photos and make video calls. Also available on iOS and computers.
Never requires batteries Moves when struck by sunlight Motors activate and move the rod back and forth so plastic ball and colourful feathers move Fixes to a window or glass door with suction cups Simulates behaviour of prey to tantalise your feline for hours Detachable rod for play with a human owner For more information, go to www.hammacher.com
THE GIRLY GADGET
Love shoes? Check. Love pink? Check. Love talking for hours on the phone? Check. If you know you’re Louboutins from your L.K. Bennetts, then you definitely want to add this ultra-glam highheeled shoe phone to your home. Simply plug into your usual home telephone line to look stylish even when you’re making calls. Which is yet another good excuse to spend more time talking to friends. Purchase online from Gadget4all.
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CARS AND OUTDOORS
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CARS
Chevrolet Impala 2014 Engine: 2.4L/2.5L 4 cylinders / 3.6L V6 Horsepower: 182/195/303 Transmission: Six-speed automatic 0-60 in 6.8 seconds (3.6L V6)
They say: “Totally redesigned. Aggressively refined.” We say: “Classy number with American sassy style”
Check this out
Car of the week
The new model Impala is a Chevy with a bevy of revamped features
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Premium rack-mounted power steering MyLink infotainment system with optional 8-inch touch screen Bluetooth connectivity Optional high-res 3D navigation mapping Standard 20-inch wheels Side Blind Zone Alert (optional) Adaptive Cruise Control
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f it wasn’t for the signature bowtie badge sitting proudly on the front grille and boot door, it might have been a little more difficult to identify this model. Indeed, apart from the distinctive logo, nothing much else remains of the Impala. It most definitely retains the Chevy spirit but the designers and engineers of the much-loved American car have clearly been hard at work totally revamping the icon. This, claims the manufacturer, is the Impala like you’ve never seen it before. It is quite brave – some might say foolish – to meddle with one of the brand’s most well-known nameplates, especially when it wears the famous Chevy bowtie. Trust the Chevy boys to pull it off. The new Impala 2014 is still true to its name, still has the heart of a Chevrolet, but has burst out of its comfortable sedan shell like a chrysalis to
emerge as a better styled and more outgoing version of itself. Launched in the Middle East last week with some fanfare in Dubai, the 2014 is the tenth generation of one of the oldest and most popular models in the automotive world. With a new interior and an envy-me contemporary exterior, it’s clear that Chevrolet is hoping to turn the heads of the younger, more style-conscious generation of drivers, who value dynamic looks as much as performance. That said, the Impala should still appeal to the older family man or woman looking for a car that ticks all the boxes for comfort and security – it boasts ten airbags as standard. Security extras such as collision front alert (a feature which should come in very handy on Oman’s roads), lane deviation and passing car warning, along with rearview camera, are also available. Improved handling gives a nimble, responsive ride, while
better legroom all round is always welcome. The top-ofthe-range 3.6L V6 also has an enhanced suspension system and electronically controlled responsive steering for improved control. A good entertainment system is also part of the package. There are some grumbles. The back could be a little more spacious and the hinged armrest doesn’t double as storage, which would have been nice. All in all, though, it seems you do get a lot of car for the money. Prices for the LS model will start at AED105, 000 (RO11, 000) and the LTZ from AED129, 000 (RO13,500). Oh, and I almost forgot the ‘wow’ feature on the V6 – the screen rises out of the dash at the touch of a button to open a secret storage bin that can be locked shut and disabled with a four-digit code. Perfect for storing valuables or must-notlose items.