Hankerchief by ypy

The handbook of

handkerchief

FROM THE EDITORS OF COMPENDIUM MAGAZINE

A GUIDE TO KNOWING IT ALL

compendium YPY BOOKS A division of NEXT publishing Co,. Inc. Singapore www.nextpublishing.com

The Contents

Foreword by Yuen

Introduction your journey with the book

THE CHAPTERS

Chapter One

The Histories

16 18 20 22 23 24 25 26

– – – – – – – –

Ancient Egypt Rome The Renaissance France Turkey Germany Ireland So what is a Handkerchief?

30 32 44

54 58

Chapter Two Fashion Guide – Are you a fashion victim? – A guide for Men The different types of pocket square Folding guide Color tips – A guide for Ladies Different types of usages Folding guide

Chapter Three Creation – Hand Embroidery – Silk Screen

THE APPENDIX

Chapter Four

The Back Matters

64 66

– Experiences to share – Epilogue

Foreword I do not like to be instructed what is right and wrong. That is just being part of a typical man. – Because of Man’s egoism, they just like to be left alone.

All of these are which makes us man in general. We resent rules, we love compliments and we hope to look the best we can everyday. HENCE THROUGH THIS BOOK, the team from COMPENDIUM hopes not to sound controlling while guiding you to the knowledge of handkerchief. We have opinions, yes. Some of us have experience and we care about opinions and feedbacks very much. Or rather, sometimes we do get very affected with hurtful comments that we deemed as direct attack to our personal judgment. Therefore we should share a same belief that even a modicum of effort - in dressing and knowing what we are dressing with – pays huge dividends.

AND THAT MEANS this book is going to tell you all about what you need to know about HANDKERCHIEF. Yes, you may call it a guidebook to how to get all differentiation with just one square piece of cloth. It is a primer on the elements on it, but by no means it is a set of unbending rules and knowledge. As mentioned, we each have our own personal experiences, times where we believe in ourselves and feel confident about it. By all means, go ahead and follow them. There are people who, through the many years and centuries during which men have chosen to play with the numerous usage of a handkerchief, have offered specific dictates that they expect to be followed specifically.

You like to be told You look so beautiful today – this for you is a lady’s everyday wish.

DEFINITELY NOT US. Just take this information here as an additional knowledge or pointers to remind yourself at times, but never take it as a set of obligatory rules to follow. These are just based on facts and history dated back donkey years ago, long before we were born. Even though the team of COMPENDIUM may speak with certainty here, understand that nothing is intended as an absolute because – we don’t truck in rules, we make suggestions based on our experiences, our understanding of the history of handkerchief and our keen observation of our fellow man. Nothing is immutable. One of the disappointments of our age is that we have no mentors in the facts on handkerchief. Our fathers raised too late in the twentieth century to have known about the different usages and had nothing to pass on to us.

THE INTENTION here thus is to let us have a glimpse about handkerchief. It is indeed a dying fad, tradition and usage. Saying here based on my personal thoughts, I feel that the usage of TISSUES! are taking away the beauty of this reusable cloth that has so much history to it. Not only is it cost saving but also it gives one a personal edge. I would definitely fall for any guy who offers me a handkerchief (unused for the day – of course) when I’m watching a tearjerker show. Not only that, don’t you feel the earth is sinking, getting heavier and heavier – that is why ROME is sinking and will disappear centuries later? That is because WE NEED TO CUT DOWN ON THE USAGE OF TISSUES and replaced them with handkerchiefs! – Just saying. So in this book, we hope you get a further and deeper understanding of a wonderful, mighty piece of an unordinary square cloth that can create wonders.

Introduction

THIS BOOK IS A JOURNEY FOR AN ITEM that is familiar yet unacquainted at the same time. The landscape of this piece of cloth is somewhat vague and may or may not survive to the near future. We do not know, but we want to make it happen and hope to make it happen. It is forever changing â&#x20AC;&#x201C; its features and usages. But its permanent features and characteristics encompass both classic and the finer points as well. We will show you the road and track, laying it out for you to discover and warn you the dangers as well, all in hope that you will help us make this dream come true.

LIKE ANY JOURNEY, YOU WILL ALWAYS HAVE TO START WITH the earlier times â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the history. Thereafter moving on to the different usages you can expect out of a piece of cloth. We came to an agreement that this compact book, with simple images and illustrations to bring you through as comprehensively as we can. There are chapters by chapters for you to fall back on again in need of quicker advises.

CHAPTER ONE

The

istory SINCE THE TIME IT WAS INTRODUCED TO THE WORLD the word kerchief alone was common. This term came from two French words: couvrir, which means “to cover,” and chef, which means “head.” In the time of ancient Greece and Rome, handkerchiefs were often used the way they are today. But in the Middle Ages, kerchiefs were usually used to cover the head. Then in the 16th century, people in Europe began to carry kerchiefs in their pockets to wipe their forehead or their nose. To distinguish this kind of kerchief from the one used to cover the head, the word hand was added to kerchief.

ANCIENT EGYPT

35,000 YEARS AGO

Ancient man started simple weaving 35,000 years ago

17,000 YEARS LATER the bone needle was developed

MIDDLE OF THE 4TH MILLENNIUM B.C. the first linen fabrics were used for ceremonial pocket squares, covered in red oxide powder.

BEFORE fully dyed

MIDST washing

AFTER color run

Linen fibers are difficult to dye and were not colorfast in ancient times. But now, the array of colors on linen is just splendid.

ROME

BY THE 4TH CENTURY CE THE ROMAN CLERGY were wearing a white linen ceremonial handkerchief (pallium linostinum) over the left arm. Gradually over the next 500 years the pallium linostinum evolved into a strip of silk known as a mappula (from mappa, cloth) that was carried in the left hand by Christian priests. By the 12th century the mappula was known as a maniple and carried over the left arm. Through the 9th century Italian nobles were carrying handkerchiefs in their left hands.

IN THE 10TH CENTURY EGYPTIANS were weaving luxurious pocket squares of linen, silk brocade, and tissue thin wool and silk called Khazz. IN THE MIDDLE AGES a handkerchief was worn by knights in tournaments as a symbol of a ladies favor.

On various occasions, I joust in the name of a lady. The day before yesterday, I jousted a tournament for Lady Elizabeth. She gave me her handkerchief as a favor, and I attached this to my clothing while I competed. Thankfully, I won, so Lady Elizabeth has more respect for me. I love earning respect from a lady, but it can be quite stressful losing in the name of a lady, because I embarrass myself and the lady! â&#x20AC;&#x201C; A story from a ROMAN.

Ave Caesar, morituri te salutant.

AROUND 250 B.C. GLADIATORS paraded around the Coliseum in Rome before the start of the day's games. They would stop in front of the emperor's podium and shout: "Ave Caesar, morituri te salutant." ("Hail Caesar, they who will die, salute you.") At that point the emperor would have a magistrate drop a handkerchief called an orarium to signal the beginning of the games. IN 271 CE THE EMPEROR AURELIAN further popularized handkerchiefs by introducing the practice of giving to the Roman people small handkerchiefs made of silk or linen which were waved by the common people as a token of applause at the games. At this time a blatta serica (raw silk dyed purple) pocket square cost 130,000 denarii the equivalent of $800 US dollars in 2006.

THE RENAISSANCE

DURING THE RENAISSANCE the handkerchief came into general use and was silk, cambric, or woven grass. Handkerchiefs were lavishly embroidered or fringed with lace. Embroideries are usually in floral decorative patterns which varies in sizes and colors.

IN ITALY they were called a fazzoletto. If a woman was attracted to a man she would declare her love by drawing her handkerchief across her cheek. Or, Drawing her handkerchief through her hands meant that she despised the man.

FUN FACT! On a more practical level women who were less than wellendowed would stuff their upper undergarments with handkerchiefs to create a larger bust line. Unfortunately the handkerchiefs tended to shift position as they were not firmly in place resulting in an unintentionally humorous sight.

One legend has it that a Venetian lady showed her lace handkerchief while on a walk which promptly started a new trend among fashionable society.

FRANCE

IN THE 14TH CENTURY, THE NOBLES OF FRANCE began sporting handkerchiefs in the 14th century. These handkerchiefs were items of great beauty - made of silk, often heavily embroidered and were found in many shapes, including circles and triangles.

Often these handkerchiefs were also scented as protection from the smells resulting from a lack of regular baths and working toilets.

Just to let you know that these olden days methods of reducing smell comes in handy for our current days as well. You would definitely need them in less advanced countries. We had encounters in one of the Asian country during our work trip whereby we almost fainted entering the public toilet. Imagine flies flying around, rubbish piling up at a corner and the bidets are....(shall not further bring disguise to you).

But yes! We adopted this method from the past on the second day – we “soaked” the cloth in our perfume and deodorant or whatever better stronger smelling scent we can find to help us fight the smell of the public toilets. You will be thankful for us in teaching you this method.

TURKEY

BACK IN TURKEY, HANDKERCHIEFS had been used in religious rituals. They were woven from linen or cotton and usually had an embroidered pattern. It was only after 1830 that they become square in shape.

These early pocket squares were the forerunners of the popular modern fashion of pocket squares having solid colors and a contrasting color on the edges.

GERMANY

AROUND 1845 nobles and the wealthy began to use pocket squares in Germany. Cotton, linen, and silk pocket squares were popular.

Unlike most of the Continent, the Germans were slow to adopt the handkerchief. â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Michel de Montaigne tells a story of walking into a German church and disturbing the people there because he held a kerchief to his nose, as was the French fashion. By the sixteenth century, Germans had begun to adopt the handkerchief, though they were regarded as decorative and luxurious articles in Germany, and were most often imported. Inventories and wills show that handkerchiefs were used not only by women, but by men as well. A painting by Lucas Cranach the Younger shows just such a gentleman, with a tasseled handkerchief in his hand. The Germans developed a unique custom with the handkerchief, giving them as wedding presents and gifts to guests. Albrecht Durer noted of a visit to a Franciscan monastery in Cologne that one of the monks gave him a handkerchief. Also, couples exchanged handkerchiefs at their weddings, often spending lavish amounts of money on them. Dresden attempted to forbid this custom among the lower class as well, but as elsewhere in Europe, this proved difficult to enforce and ultimately failed badly.

IRELAND

INVENTORIES OF THE FOURTEENTH AND FIFTEENTH CENTURIES include several indications of the materials used to make handkerchiefs. Names like toile de Reims, toile de Hollande, linen cloth of Rheims and Holland cloth, are the materials purchased for handkerchiefs. Toile was linen cloth of varying sources and qualities. Holland cloth was a linen cloth of medium quality, used for a variety of clothing items.

Ireland has long produced some of the finest linen which has been made into both pocket squares and fine handkerchiefs.

Always carry a pocket square to show, and a handkerchief to blow â&#x20AC;&#x201C; An old Irish proverb that illustrates their philosophy regarding pocket squares. In the sixteenth century, the French preferred silk and linen for handkerchiefs. Italians preferred the finest possible materials, most especially lawn, often with gold threads shot through the fabric. In England, silk and cambric were the fashionable materials.

so what is it?

FOR THE YOUNGER GENERATION, who still have no idea that a handkerchief is more than just a piece of cloth, (not a paper tissue) It has many other different usages.

Usually square in shape, either very plain or highly decorated with embroidery ( for women's use).

In the "olden days" men always wore a clean white ironed handkerchief in their suit pocket as that was considered being well-dressed.

There was also very specific folding technique to correctly display the handkerchief in the suit pocket which was followed meticulously.

CHAPTER TWO

Using for

ashion WILL FASHION SURVIVE WITHOUT THE HANDKERCHIEF? Probably. But wouldn’t it be nice to hold on to some remnant of the past to hearken us back to the days when love and fashion at least appeared to be simple? Why have handkerchiefs gone out of style, when sneezing hasn’t? Back in the ’50s, if a man wore a suit without a pocket-handkerchief, he was as good as naked by fashion’s standards. Even though women did not usually wear handkerchiefs as a part of their clothing, it was the norm for a woman to have an ironed and neatly folded one inside her handbag. Vogue magazine even carried an advertisement called “Handkerchief of the Month”

fashion victim

Are you a fashion victim?

SO WHAT EXACTLY IS FASHION VICTIM? A fashion victim is someone who adopts trends slavishly, buying whatever the fashion authorities claim is stylish without taking other elements into consideration - such as one’s personal built. The end result is often awkward, over-the-top style that makes you stick out like a sore thumb - seriously, it would not look good on you. WHY DOES THIS HAPPEN? Often because you are too insecure in your own skin to decide what looks best on you, a fashion victim instead relies on the opinions of others when it comes to dressing oneself. This would definitely result in purchasing an expensive suit for the men, and an overly priced accessory for the ladies, just because a salespersonnel tells you this is the “in-thing” now,”. And when ladies hear that, they would definitely want to own one of a trendy dress and men, needless to say because of some slight ego, would purchase them despite the misfit.

The bottom line not being that you cannot be indulging in trendy items, it does involve a certain degree of trendiness to looking sharp. However, your clothes, accessories, your overall package have to fit right, look right and most importantly they must suit your style, image and personality. Bear in mind, it is not about the clothes you wear â&#x20AC;&#x201C; but how you wear them.

FEW ACCESSORIES FOR MEN, can have the ability to go from fashionable to functional in the blink of an eye like a well-folded pocket square.

A true pocket square is best used to add a dash of color and style to your wardrobe, and proper pocket square folds add a touch of uniqueness to your overall look. They also help you get more mileage out of a suit when traveling. Changing the shirt and tie is a must, but a new pocket square in a neat fold rounds out the look and gives it a freshness that only this accessory can achieve.

Master the following pocket square folds to add a touch of class to your suits and blazers.

POCKET SQUARE GUIDE Now, not only do old men use them to sneeze into, the pocket square is the perfect accessory to cap off your already impressive dapper style. But there are a few key things you want to remember while picking and wearing your pocket square.

THE GUIDE |

DECORATIVE Your pocket square is for decorative use only. Don't use it to wipe your nose; carry a proper handkerchief in your pants pocket for that. MATCHING While it is acceptable to sport match tie or square sets, you will note that they are rarely exact matches in terms of color or pattern. This is for good reason: Matching these two elements perfectly appears mathematic, and thus, bland. Instead, match them as you would any other colors and patterns. TIE OR SQUARE? You donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t need a tie to wear a square. In fact, in the right setting, a square is often a good substitute for a tie.

FOLDING GUIDE |

JUST A WORD OF CAUTION, in most situations, a bulge in your pants might be a good thing, but this does not hold true with pocket squares, you do not want them bulging from your chest, so pick a thin one. Also the days of shiny and lustrous pocket square are out. So don’t go for silky, shiny pocket squares, it just does not look good anymore as compared to the past.

YOU DO NOT NEED TO SPEND A TON OF MONEY on a pocket square. Now we are going to advise you further. We know the man exists who wants to have the BEST of everything, and by all means go ahead.

Just the Tip and that’s all you are going to see with your pocket square. As investments go, spending a chunk of change here, is probably not wise. – from the famous line of the Wedding Crashers movie. Finally we want to know how to fold them.

CLASSY

FUN!

FORMAL

FOLDING GUIDE |

THE ONE POINT This is your standard issue pocket square fold for everyday wear with a conservative suit or a retro-cut suit with a narrow lapel.

Open up the square.

Fold it in half, lengthwise.

Fold it again, this time from bottom to top

* not drawn to scale

Position the folded square in a diamond shape with the exposed folds at the top corner. Fold what is now the left corner in to the middle of the diamond.

Fold what is now the right corner in to slightly overlap the left fold.

Fold the bottom corner back so as to expose the preceding two folds.

Slide it in the pocket.

These pocket square folds will have you looking smart.

FOLDING GUIDE |

THE SQUARE This pocket square fold it the best option for a tuxedo jacket of any cut or a black suit worn to a formal occasion. The fold is simplicity at its finest.

Open up the square.

Fold it in half, lengthwise.

Fold the bottom up so it fall just short of meeting the top.

Flip it around. Tuck it in.

* not drawn to scale

FOLDING GUIDE |

THE PUFF This is the pocket square fold for those days when you forgot the tie, but want a dash of style to stand out from the crowd.

Open up the square.

Pinch it in the center and raise it up, letting the points hang down.

Use the space between your thumb and forefinger to cinch the hanging square at its midway point.

Fold the hanging points up.

* not drawn to scale

colors

TIPS FOR WEARING COLOR Men often take to the safest route, one might say they are boring or to defend themselves they would say because “I look good in these colors”. Yes, the palette of black, gray, blue, and the occasional khaki are neutral colors and safe ones. However, they are also considered bland, lack of confidence, and also lack of that little energy.

After your newfound knowledge here, start to change your choice of colors slowly. Although, wearing colors can be tricky and troublesome at times, but a few “peek-a-boo” here and there will not only enhance your clothes, but it will also brighten up your spirit somehow. This is where you would stand out from your colleagues and ladies would start noticing you – in a good way of course.

HERE IS 1 TIP TO APPLY AS YOU BEGIN TO INCORPORATE COLOR INTO YOUR WARDROBE SLOWLY. Use colors to accessorize! Color need not be restricted to core wardrobe items such as your shirt, blazer, etc. In actual fact, they should not be colorful at all. After all, you want your core staples to be timeless, enduring ones, and colors can prove an obstacle to this.

Colored accessories, on the other hand, are a great way to show the playful side of you. This is where your pocket square comes in handy â&#x20AC;&#x201C; A brightly colored pocket square is a fast, inexpensive, and easy way to enhance all your existing outfits.

There’s an old Irish proverb that says, always carry two handkerchiefs... one to show and one to blow. In our modern times, we have blown past such simple habits and traditions.

Ask your Mother and they will say “Handkerchiefs remind me of my grandmother – who had always felt that a lady should never leave home without a cloth handkerchief with her (or even wearing gold and accessories for special occasions)!” Today, no one ever leaves home without their cell phones even when attending special occasions!

Around Your Neck |

THE CLASSIC WAY TO WEAR A HANDKERCHIEF, tying one of these around your neck can be a beautiful replacement for a necklace. This look is subtle and elegant and works best with a loose, lightly patterned scarf that coordinates with your outfit. If the handkerchief is patterned, it is best to stick with plain clothes, while if your shirt has a design, try a plain handkerchief that brings out the colors of the shirt.

Tying a handkerchief around your neck is generally more popular among the older crowd. While it often makes an older woman look sophisticated and put-together, it can make a younger woman look older than her years and fuddy-duddy, so if you are under 40, it might be best to try a different style. 46

On Your Head |

THIS IS ONE OF THE LATEST AND TRENDIEST WAYS to sport a handkerchief. The fashion-conscious might have noticed this look in clothing advertisements and on models in fashion magazines and it is surprisingly easy for anyone to pull off.

The most common way to tie a handkerchief around your head is to start by folding a square scarf in half at the corners to create a triangle. Then, take the middle of the straight side of the triangle and line it up in the middle of your forehead. Tie the corners together tightly behind your head. This style looks cute with your hair worn down and flowing underneath the handkerchief and is a cool way to keep your hair out of your face on a hot day. It works well for a beach outing or other summertime jaunt and looks best on young women or teenagers.

As a Belt |

If you are looking to show off a slender waist, then try by tying a handkerchief around your middle to highlight your midsection is a creative way to do it.

You can either fold up the handkerchief for a narrow belt or keep it spread for a wide one, and tie it either on the side or in the back. Since this kind of look is splashy, it works well if the handkerchief is loud and patterned too, with a solid colored shirt underneath.

Bear in mind that there are various ways in which you can make a plain handkerchief look stylish too on your waist. Play with it like how you put on belts. It works the same. If the handkerchief is too short to fasten and tie into a ribbon, fasten it with a bright looking brooch. That will not only help in fastening but add a tinge of elegance to your overall look. TRY IT!

As a Toga |

Wearing as a toga top â&#x20AC;&#x201C; This usage of a handkerchief is only for the really daring woman because it requires faith that the scarf will stay on your body the whole time you are wearing it. Hence if you are less of confident and wary most of the time, do not try out this style. Unless you wear a camisole beneath but then again it defeat the purpose of wearing something light and loose.

You will need an extra-large size handkerchief and you use this to create an off-the-shoulder shirt that ties around your neck and on the opposite side of your body, by your waist. You might want to experiment with different ways of folding and tying it to see which way works best for your body type.

Wearing a handkerchief like this is best for a very hot day because it makes a rather thin and flimsy shirt and is a nice touch for a pool party or other outdoor event. Again, we emphasize on this that different body types suit different styles and methods to carry off this look. Therefore try out a few style before going out in this look.

FOLDING GUIDE |

CREATING A CLASSIC BANDANA HEADBAND Wearing a bandana like a headband is a really cute way to add some color to your style, and on the practical side itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s perfect for keeping stray hairs out of your face. Bandanas are inexpensive and come in tons of different colors and patterns. Choose one that matches your outfit, then follow these steps to tie it like a headband.

Fold the bandana in half diagonally. Fold one corner toward the other corner so that you have a triangle. Make sure the patterned side is facing out.

Roll the triangle into a strip. Start at the widest part of the triangle and gently roll it toward the tip.

Wrap the bandana around your head. The tip should centered over your forehead and facing backward. Pull the ends of the bandana that they meet at the nape of your neck.

Secure the bandana ends with a double knot. Make sure it is tied tight enough so that it wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t fall off.

* not drawn to scale

Because of the wide variety of handkerchief patterns, these accessories can make a beautiful and unique headband. You can create this look by simply folding the handkerchief into a thin strip and placing it across your hair. Then tie the bottom in a knot underneath your hair for an original headband that keeps your hair neatly in place. This type of look looks best on the younger crowd, but it can work well with any length hair, from very short and choppy to long, flowing locks.

CHAPTER THREE

The

reation AFTER LEARNING SO MUCH ABOUT STYLE TIPS it is time you own a handkerchief. However you may not be attracted to designs sold in the market, but fret not, we are going to teach you methods of how to spice up your handkerchief â&#x20AC;&#x201C; to create your very own. We are going to touch on methods in which you can personalize your handkerchief. You can create your favourite prints on it or just by initializing your name on it to make it yours. Remember when you were younger, you would write your name on your items for fear it might get stolen? Or you would just draw your favourite character on them? â&#x20AC;&#x201C; it works the same.

hand embroidery

HAVE YOU EVER WANTED TO HAND EMBROIDER some special quote for that special someone? The following pages will take you through the ins and outs of hand embroidered lettering and text! HAND EMBROIDERY is an excellent way to personalize gifts, any household objects, momentos and the list goes. Writing with your needle and thread can also be a lot of fun â&#x20AC;&#x201C; we hope the tutorial will help you in your needlework endeavors!

DIFFERENT KINDS OF HAND EMBROIDERY STITCH

When choosing which stitch to use, consideration needs to be given to the size of the letters. If you are stitching a whole name, especially if it has lots of letters, you may wish to stick to a simple outline stitch, whereas someone's initials might look nicer when worked in a wider, filling stitch.

Fly Stitch

Stem Stitch

French Knots

Feather Stitch

Cross Stitch

Couching

Spoke Stitch

Chain Stitch

Fly Stitch

Satin Stitch

Blanket Stitch

Short and Long Stitch

Running Stitch

Herringbone Stitch

STITCHING GUIDE |

CHAIN STITCH A chain stitch is a series of loops that lay on the fabric forming a loose style line. This is the basic and simplest of the chain stitch family. It gives a chain like appearance or, like petals lined up one after the other.

Bring the thread out through A. Put the needle back in A and bring it out through the point B, but donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t pull the needle out completely.

Now, take the thread around the needle from left to right to form a loop.

Pull out the needle now to tighten the loop and you will get the first part of the chain.

Now, put the needle in through B (now inside the loop) and bring it out on C (outside of the loop).

Continue the action by taking the thread around the back of the needle from left to right to form a loop and pull out the needle to get the next loop of the chain. Keep on with this procedure to finish the design.

silk screen

SILK SCREEN PRINTING MAY BE A BIT INTIMIDATING AT FIRST, but it is easier than it looks with just a few steps required. And also its possible to set up a printing area in your own home for cheap. You do not really require any heavy machineries. The basic idea behind silk screening is pretty simple and works similar to a stencil. Instead of cutting out shapes individually, you coat a screen in photo emulsion, then cut an image out using a bright light. Before the process, you would need to start with the right supplies. Supplies – Clean screen and frame – Squeegee – Emulsion – Silk Screen Fabric Ink – Transparency(film) of image desired

SO IN THIS BOOK, we will explain the type of screen printing that will be shown to you. It is screen printing with a normal emulsion. In general terms, you paint a screen with light sensitive paint, let it cure, put your image on top of the paint when it’s dried and cure it under lights. The area of the screen that is covered up by your image will not get cured because it won’t be exposed to light. Therefore after your screen is “exposed”, all the area under your image will just wash away under water. This clean area in the shape of your image or text, is your screen printing pattern, where you will drag ink across to create your screen printed handkerchief!

SILK SCREEN GUIDE |

SILK SCREEN If you are doing it for your first time, start with something simple without a lot of thin lines. A standard silhouette is an easy way to go: You need a solid black image because its only real purpose is to block the light.

Coat screen with photo sensitive emulsion. This should be done in an area not well lit and while emulsion is drying keep screen out of light.

Take transparency and place on the outside of screen, right side down, with clear tape. Place screen in exposure unit or in direct light to expose emulsion.

After emulsion has been exposed, remove transparency and take it to wash. Here gently rinse out entire screenthe emulsion.

Now tape the inside of screen to prevent ink from running though.

Take desired ink and spread across screen below the image. Take squeegee and pull ink through screen, with your handkerchief at the bottom.

CHAPTER FOUR

The

ack matters THEREFORE, AFTER CHAPTERS ON HANDKERCHIEFS, OUR TEAM BELIEVE THAT YOU WOULD ONCE AGAIN HAVE A HANDKERCHIEF WITH YOU, FOR SO MANY OTHER REASONS YOU SHOULD HAVE BY NOW. And that you will be more comfortable than ever to use it. Knowing the past history allows you to revive them in anyway you could, and the styles of carrying them around is what we wish for you to do so. WE hope we have brought you enough guide to the handkerchief, as the title of the book says it all.

experiences to share

HAVE YOU EVER WONDER HOW TO HANDLE DELICATE HANDKERCHIEFS? We shall give you a tip. It is recommended that soaking soiled handkerchiefs in salt water (using ordinary table salt) is sufficient to kill the bacteria and viruses that are on the cloth. Afterwards, they are easily washed in your nearly full washer (needing so little space themselves) and washed in cold water. No need for bleach!

Whilst I am reminiscing, I remember that my grandmother always using cloth napkins at every meal. I don't think I ever saw a paper napkin in her home. And I thought she was just being elegant and classy. But I found out it was a habit carried over from the olden days, undoubtedly, she was also influenced by the need to be frugal as she had gone through WWII during her time. The tradition continued all her years here. I always thought it was a nice touch. And it didn't really increase her workload at all. She reused the napkins for family use only and only washed the napkins with the family's clothes once a week. She then would neatly fold them while damp and never would iron them. I don't think she ever ironed them even with a dryer as they were for family use only. Napkins for guests were treated differently, of course.

This is a tradition that we have always followed. I can't tell you how many times folks comment how they noticed we don't have a paper towel dispenser in the kitchen, or when a visitor comes calling and we give them a bite to eat, they certainly notice our cloth napkins. It most certainly makes both economical and eco sense. What about you? What SMALL changes have you made on your homestead that are having BIG impact? â&#x20AC;&#x201C; From the Chief Director of Compendium 65

epilogue

THERE IS ACTUALLY AN EVEN DEEPER PROPOSITION FOR THE READING OF THIS BOOK. Not only do the previous few chapters touched on the history, different usages and how to design your own, don’t you get the greater picture of how HANDKERCHIEF is?

Picking up a piece of tissue paper and blowing your nose might be doing more than clearing your sinuses. It might be destroying the world’s old-growth forests. When you pick up a tissue to stop that runny nose, you could be wiping your nose with an ancient forest. That ‘snot very cool.’ Puns aside, there is a very simple solution to this problem. Give up those tissues you have and carry around a handkerchief.

THROUGH THE DIFFERENT TUTORIALS GIVEN, you can even learn to follow the steps and fold it so you can carry it around in your jacket pocket. Men, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll look like studs and everyone will know that you care about the environment. Women, you can drop the hankies coquettishly in order to renew an outdated fashion statement. It might be wisest to buy a handkerchief for every day of the week, then wash all of the hankies when you do your laundry. This will keep them from getting disgustingly dirty, therefore, making it more likely that youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll continue using the handkerchiefs. When you catch a cold, however, you may want to switch back to paper facial tissues.

MANY THANKS TO OUR MAIN CONTRIBUTORS Anti - Kleenex

Ladies fashion sense

Mens fashion sense

Why people use tissue instead of handkerchief

Images of the lady’s style

Images of the Mens’s style

–––––– holly’s vintage sews. (n.d.). holly’s vintage sews. Retrieved , from http:// www.hollysvintagesews.com

–––––– Pocket Square Folds. (n.d.). AskMen. Retrieved , from http://www.askmen. com/fashion/fashiontip_400/404c_fashion_advice.html

–––––– HowStuffWorks “Use a Handkerchief Instead of Facial Tissues”. (n.d.). HowStuffWorks. Retrieved , from http://health.howstuffworks.com/ wellness/preventive-care/hankerchief-instead-of-facial-tissues.ht

History How each countries uses the handkerchief differently –––––– History of Pocket Squares. (n.d.). History of Pocket Squares. Retrieved , from https://www.samhober.com/ pocketsquarehistory.htm/pocketsquarehistory.htm

How to Tie a Bandana Like a Headband. (n.d.). wikiHow. Retrieved , from http://www.wikihow.com/Tiea-Bandana-Like-a-Headband

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