Global Cosmetic Industry, GCI January/February by yvesrocherdemx

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CONTENTS JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2015

n VOLUME 183, NUMBER 1

features 14 The F-Word of Color Cosmetics: Functionality

Despite sluggish growth rates for color cosmetics, consumers, globally, are spending over $1 billion a week on the category— with functionality and fashion as the key drivers. BY ROB WALKER, EUROMONITOR INTERNATIONAL

18 The Color Essentials

Supplier insights on creating winning color cosmetics, and an overview of color forecasting and trends. BY SARA MASON

Spring/Summer 2015 Color Trends Influence on color and beauty trends comes from a myriad of places and factors. Find out what’s hot and why for color in spring/summer 2015. BY ROSEANNA ROBERTS

26 Beauty Meets Tech

Regardless of industry, consumers want products that are effective, that create new value, that match their own values and an experience that is fun, informative and simple. BY VALERIA COLE

30 Her 2015 Beauty Wish List

(and the Brands that Rocked Her World in 2014)

columns 4 Starting Point: There’s a Brand New Talk BY JEFF FALK

departments 6 10 12 42 44

Go: Innovations, ideas and insights Street Level: New products, promotions and events Fragrance Focus: News about the fragrance industry Wrap Up: The latest in packaging innovation Main Ingredients: Ingredients now on the market

resources 46 Products & Services Showcase 48 Advertiser Index

At look at the products and brands that made the biggest impact in her world in 2014 and how they are shaping her current desires. BY DENISE HERICH

34 Branding and Rebranding: Order of Implementation

online

Beauty marketers are often looking to start a new product line, create a line extension or rebrand an existing offering. Even with laser-focused objectives, there is often uncertainty as to how to navigate the specific steps within the design process.

Agility Ability: Lessons in Branding and Presentation

BY SHERI L. KOETTING

BY MARK LUSKY

38 Fun, Flirty, Functional:

Trends in the Beauty Industry Job Market

Trends in Color Cosmetic Packaging

BY FRANCES MAZUR

Different Shades: The Technology to Try Makeup Virtually BY VICTOR SHABUROV

BY GCI EDITORS

www.gcimagazine.com

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Contents

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Editorial Jeff Falk Editor in Chief

1-630-344-6071/jfalk@allured.com

ADVERTISING Sales Tom Harris US (NJ & PA), Canada, Central & South America Kim Jednachowski US (except NJ & PA) Jane Evison Europe & Asia Paige Crist Fragrance Kasia Smialkowski Coordinator

1-201-445-4702/tharris@allured.com 1-630-344-6054/kjednachowski@allured.com 44-(0)-1430-441685/jane-evison@btconnect.com 1-630-344-6060/pcrist@allured.com 1-630-344-6025/ksmialkowski@allured.com

Audience Development & Marketing Steve Owen Brand Specialist

1-630-344-6027/sowen@allured.com

Publisher Maria Romero Executive Assistant

1-630-344-6062/mromero@allured.com

DESIGN DEPARTMENT Andrew Frederick Design Manager Bryan Crowe Production Manager Hon Bannapradist Senior Graphic Designer

1-630-344-6042/bcrowe@allured.com

corporate Janet Ludwig President Linda Getner Controller Linda Schmitt Director of Marketing Sandy Chapin Group Show Director

Customer Service Subscriptions: 1-888-399-0899, fax 1-630-653-2192, www.gcimagazine.com/subscribe Quality custom reprints or e-prints: Foster Printing Services, 1-866-879-9144, sales@fosterprinting.com

Allured Business Media 1-630-653-2155 • fax 1-630-653-2192 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 USA www.Allured.com European Office: Jane Evison, East Yorkshire, England

Other Allured products Alluredbooks Cosmetics & Toiletries Bench Reference Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine: Portuguese edition Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit Face & Body Spa Conference and Expo Flavorcon Perfumer & Flavorist magazine Skin Inc. magazine World Perfumery Congress

Global Cosmetic Industry (ISSN 1523-9470) is published ten times per year as Jan./Feb., March, April, May, June, July/Aug., Sept., Oct., Nov. and Dec. issues by Allured Business Media, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream IL 60188-2403 USA. Copyright 2014. Free subscriptions to Global Cosmetic Industry are available to qualified individuals. The publisher reserves the right to determine qualification of free subscriptions. Replacement issues are available only through single copy sales. Single copies: $10; GCI Directory Issue: $35 (Add $10 per order shipped to Canada; add $15 per order to all other countries.) Periodicals postage paid at Carol Stream IL 60188 and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Please send address changes to Global Cosmetic Industry, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 USA. Change of address: Give both the new and old addresses. Allow two months for a change to become effective.

Members of the American Business Media. All correspondence regarding business, editorial, advertising and production should be sent to Global Cosmetic Industry, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 USA. Allured Business Media makes all attempts to publish accurate information; however, this publication may contain technical inaccuracies or typographical errors. The reader assumes all risks concerning the suitability and accuracy of the information within this publication. Allured Business Media assumes no responsibility for and disclaims all liability for any such inaccuracies, errors or omissions in this publication and in other documents referred to within or affiliated with this publication. www.GCImagazine.com

2 Contents GCI January/February 2015

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Starting

n by JEFF FALK

Point

There’s a Brand New Talk

F JEFF FALK

Editor in Chief

GCI MAGAZINE Editorial Advisory BOARD Alisa Marie Beyer

Coastal Salt & Soul

MARIE ALICE DIBON

Alice Communications, Inc.

Ada Polla

Alchimie Forever, The Polla Beauty Group

Art Rich, phD

A. Rich Development

Rick Ruffolo

R4 Innovations

Cristina Samuels

Mode Cosmetics

Laura Setzfand Epiphany

ashion. No matter what changes with and within beauty—the technologies in products, the strategies to sell products and the proclivities of those who buy the products—fashion remains a key influencer. Especially in color cosmetics. And, in fact, fashion along with functionality are the key drivers of the $1 billion weekly global spend on color cosmetics, according to Euromonitor International’s Rob Walker. Further, color cosmetics are being added to the portfolios of fashion labels. “Fashion brands are still quite low profile in terms of the overall value of the market, but they are growing fast. They also have oodles of creativity at the front line of selling,” Walker writes in “The F-Word of Color Cosmetics: Functionality,” beginning on Page 14. It makes sense, as Walker notes that the shade of a lip gloss is as important as the cut of a hemline for many women and that “nail products, in particular, have become popular fashion accessories in their own right—a trend that’s clear in global sales data.” In her review of spring/summer 2015 color trends, beginning on Page 22, Roseanna Roberts notes both the color trends to watch and how they’re being used in makeup looks—as well as what fashion houses are using them on the runway.

From Runway to Runaway Train... On January 7, we received a press release announcing a class action lawsuit that claims two California-based brands “falsely sell, label and/or represent certain cosmetic products as organic.” The unnamed plaintiffs in the lawsuit claim these products “violate California’s Organic Products Act, which requires that cosmetic products advertised, marketed, sold, labeled, or represented as organic in California be made of at least 70 percent organic ingredients... [and] the packaging and advertising for these products mislead consumers to believe that the products were wholly or at least mostly organic, when, in fact, they were not.” Class members include those who purchased one of the brand’s products between May 11, 2007 and January 6, 2015 and those who bought the second brand’s products between May 11, 2007 and January 31, 2011. My first inclination was to simply report this as an “FYI. Watch how you label/make claims” note, but I cannot help but editorialize here. With the nature of the suit, the date range and scope of potential class members, the location, and other factors—including the PR statement that “The Court has not decided whether [X] did anything wrong and the two sides have not settled the case—this certainly appears to be a move made by unidentified brand owners to derail other brand owners. I don’t believe this is about consumer protection, I think there could be a healthy debate about whether or not consumers were harmed (there’s far more egregious marketing/labelling practices across industries), and I’d ask for data that showed that consumers were/were not aware of what they were buying. And if there’s a problem, I’m thinking it’s likely rooted in and extends from the California act that allows an organic label when 30% of the product isn’t organic. That, right or wrong, rings false to me... No. This is a suit brought to further a business agenda—brought to undermine competition (it names two specific brands, a narrow net that intentionally detours around larger issues)— and in doing so, hurts the industry and business as a whole without solving any crucial problems. n GCI

4 Starting Point GCI January/February 2015

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Robust, Earthy Red Pantone’s 2015 Color of the Year

Consumers Buy for Needs, Industry Sells by Category Diagonal Reports believes that the beauty industry and the consumer are out of sync, reporting that consumers view beauty by functional need rather than by category. This finding is reported in its Lexicon of Beauty 2015-2025, which remaps the beauty industry according to function. Consumers conceptualize beauty in terms of their needs. They always focus on the outcome, for example, to achieve a “younger” or a “fairer” skin and clean and/or manageable hair. The universal starting point for everyone is “me” and “my problem.” This is quite a different lens to that used by formulators and brand or category managers. Beauty consumers are far less concerned with the “wrapping”—the category classification, the technology, the channel, the segment. Dissatisfaction with the usefulness of traditional product categories goes back a long time. Research by Diagonal Reports shows that even in the late 1990s, consumers in the United States and Europe were increasingly focused on the function of hair and skin care products. That could not have developed into a popular movement without the internet and social media, which facilitated and accelerated this trend globally. Today, many millions of beauty consumers around the world are talking to each other using a different language or lexicon. This classification is outside the control of the industry, which still conceptualizes in terms of legacy categories. The rewards for matching needs with products are great. A historical sweep of research reports shows a consistent trend: companies successfully enter the market by focusing on buyers’ problems. These small (but agile) players now account in aggregate for a significant share of sales. Crucially, many minnows are strategically positioned for future market expansion. The common market entry point is the uncommercialized and unbranded products/regimes that exist in the consumer but not the industry lexicon. Massage is the most striking example. It revolutionized skin care and represents a new mass treatment category, still largely unconsolidated. But massage was ignored for years because of the widespread (industry) observance of the square pegs and round holes rule. Diagonal Reports has been compiling intelligence on consumers’ beauty regimes and practices worldwide for many years that did not otherwise fit in. In its report, it identifies the beauty behaviors that represent skin and hair care market opportunities. This lexicon is accessible by explaining different beauty needs, cultures and regimes. 6

GO!

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Pantone, an X-Rite company, announced PANTONE 18-1438 Marsala, a naturally robust and earthy wine red, as the 2015 color of the year. “Much like the fortified wine that gives Marsala its name, this tasteful hue embodies the satisfying richness of a fulfilling meal, while its grounding redbrown roots emanate a sophisticated, natural earthiness,” said Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute. “This hearty, yet stylish tone is universally appealing and translates easily to fashion, beauty, industrial design, home furnishings and interiors.” A versatile color for beauty, Marsala is an appealing and sophisticated shade that’s flattering against many skin tones, offers Pantone. Marsala pairs with monochromatic mixes of peachy pinks, and sparkles against antiqued gold metallics, offering an assortment of lipstick and blush options. Marsala illuminates a range of smokyneutral color combinations, making it a captivating eye shadow color that can be worn from morning until night. Add an overlay of bronze for a dramatic look that suits any eye color, or use Marsala as a go-to finishing touch on nails. As a striking contrasting color, Marsala is well suited for use in graphic design and packaging. Eye-catching but not overwhelming or bright, consumers are immediately drawn to the hue, making it an alluring shade at point-ofpurchase. Marsala will be a natural fit for both high- and low-tech materials, including on-shelf periodicals as well as printed assets.

GCI January/February 2015

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carecreations.basf.com

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Impact Colors has released its color trends report for 2016 and beyond. The seventh annual Color Trends 2016+ highlights four distinct trends: Artland, Enchanted, Cosmos and Rendezvous. The Color Trend 2016+ program consists of a 20-minute video presentation of ideas, concepts, and images followed by an intimate offering of 20 color proposals harmonized with each Color Trends theme. The trend forecast was exclusively developed by the highly recognized market development expert Sunny Maffeo of Sunny Maffeo Partner, LLC. Maffeo specializes in color trend forecasting and special effects in the beauty, personal care, packaging, paper and coatings industries. Her long-range and global approach to color trends makes her truly innovative in global markets and multiple product categories. “We are very enthusiastic about sharing our vision of future trends with our clients,” said Doug Thornley, CEO of Impact Colors. “We have formulated an adventurous palette of 20 astonishing pigments and effects to compliment the trends that will capture the industry in 2016 and beyond. These products create a global expression of color and texture that will add excitement and exotic flair to our clients’ personal care formulations.” Each of the four fables encapsulates lifestyle and design influences from across and beyond this world. Artland is inspired by the creative energy in urban environments where musicians, fashion designers, and artists express themselves in powerful ways. The color palette consists of soft nudes and blushes on the lips and cheeks juxtaposed with pops of bold contemporary chroma for eyes and nails. The Street Art look, with cheeky packaging in the form of a spray can, features umber lips, and colorfully graphic eyes. “Artland is the perfect trend for chromaholics who crave the energy of color,” said Maffeo. Brushed brows are emphasized. Lashes bring focus to eyes. In Artland, rogue is vogue. Face is canvas. Black, white, and strong colors appear with the confidence of quick bold strokes on a fresh sketch pad. The mood is ink and the packaging is inspired by the shelves at the art store. With Enchanted, Impact Colors journeys to a magical meadow for looks that recreate the foliage and creatures of the forest. Fairies inspire a pink pixie look while in another interpretation, the greens and browns of the trees embolden the eyes. Peacock plumage coats the nails, and lips are nectar-stained. Silver and blue, also popular in this midnight palette, combine to produce a mysterious look—a new trend that promises adventure and enchantment. Cosmos is just as it sounds—a theme that features effects of deep space, cosmic gases, and starlight with sparkly, futuristic greys and fierce carbon black. The trend is about displaying superhuman perfection with holographic eyes, shimmering lips, and sleek prismatic packaging that is out of this world. Much like the universe, the possibilities of this trend are infinite. Moon rocks and space punk add intensity. Eyes, lips, nails and lids—sleek and sensual, are dusted with carbon, a statement to minimalism. The Rendezvous theme reflects the glitz and glamour of high society. Champagne and luxury town cars inspire gilded eyes. High-shine lacquer nails complete with jewel box packaging. “The look is all about status,” Maffeo said. “High profile reds combined with the extra special effect of shimmering gold makes the look pop and set a trend.” No palette is ever complete without an interpretation of those reds. They appear in Rendezvous as lux, high society classics that are Park Avenue perfect for eyes, lips, and nails that light up the room.

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Five Types

of MILLENNIALS As presented at the 2014 PBA Executive Summit, Trendera’s Jane Birmingham offered a breakdown of millenial consumers. Movers and Shakers: value seekers; very influenced by social media; important for beauty industry (they care about how they look). Modern Moms: social media queens; respond to price promotions; want to look good but defer spending/ spend on their kids. Free Spirits: tricky to market to; want easy access to information and rely on recommendations; online shoppers. Couch Surfers: low earners; really hard to reach and not swayed by traditional ad placements (TV, notably); marketing through/in video games is the way to reach this segment. Influencers: high awareness of beauty brands; highest purchase rate; active shoppers; actively aware of brands.

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street level

new products, promotions and events

BRAND NEWS

HD Foundation

CC Cream

Pept

Elizabeth Arden announced that it has signed an exclusive agreement with supermodel Karlina Caune, who will be the new global face of the Elizabeth Arden brand. Inglot

Inglot incorporates white truffle extract into its most recent foundation launch to keep skin moisture balanced. HD Perfect Coverup Foundation provides long lasting coverage and conceals discoloration and imperfections. The product is formulated with HD pigments to ensure a natural, flawless finish that adjusts to each skin tone and prevents excess shine. Available at select Macy’s, www.inglotusa.com and Inglot boutiques.

Osmosis Pür Medical Skin Care added a CC Cream to its color offering that provides coverage while brightening, lifting and hydrating skin. Available in 4 shades (Neutral, Ivory, Warm and Mocha), the cream encapsulates pigments into microcapsules using the company’s True Tone Technology to ensure the right amount of color is delivered at the right time. The cream’s formula is then enhanced with Light Lifting Effects, which diffuse skin discoloration while giving the enhanced appearance of a brighter, more youthful complexion. The formulation evens skin tone, reduces dark spots and minimizes pores while offering anti-wrinkle and elasticity support. Available at skincarebyalana.com. www.osmosisskincare.com

Mark Kay Cosmetics urges consumers to show their support for the International Day for the Elimination of Violence Against Women, on November 25, with the company’s “Orange You Lovely” tinted lip balm. Kendo, an LVMH company, acquired Bite Beauty, a Toronto-based beauty brand specializing in natural lip products founded in 2011 by Canadian entrepreneur Susanne Langmuir. Terms of the transaction were not disclosed. Following its prior announcement of plans to exit the Duracell business,

P&G said it now plans to execute a split transaction, in which it will exchange a recapitalized Duracell Company for Berkshire Hathaway’s shares of P&G stock.

Tom’s of Main honored 51 nonprofit organizations at its sixth annual 50 States for Good community giving program. More than $500,000 will go directly toward funding projects that benefit communities in every state and the District of Columbia.

PEOPLE Michael Larrain to chief executive officer, PCA Skin. Lisa Eldridge to makeup creative director, Lancôme. Gigi Hadid to spokesperson, Maybelline New York. Pratt Institute will honor James Gager, senior vice president and group creative director at MAC Cosmetics and Jo Malone Worldwide, for his outstanding commitment to package design at its annual Art of Packaging Award Gala on May 19, 2015, at The University Club of New York.

Jane Wurwand, founder, co-owner and chief visionary of Dermalogica and The International Dermal Institute (IDI) and founder of the brand’s social impact initiative, FITE, is one of 2014’s recipients of the Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW) Achiever Award.

Leslie Blodgett, creator of bareMinerals, has been awarded the 2014 WWD Beauty Inc. Visionary of the Year Award.

Contract Manufacturing news Paklab reset its image with the concept “Element4 Skin Science Studio” to become a full turnkey company. Packaging, graphic design, product development, process modernization and new filling capabilities like bag on valve aerosols and flexible film for specialty products are just some of the beginning steps in the company’s complete image reset.

10 Street Level GCI January/February 2015

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Hair Makeup

Redken used makeup technology to create a line of temporary hair color. Color Rebel deposits a very fine colored micro-coating on the surface of the hair, making it resistant to water and mechanical aggressors such as brushing, blowdrying or flatironing. The hair makeup is available in five shades, including: Red-y to Rock, Rebel Without a Coral, Punked Up Pink, Purple Riot, Gilty as Charged and Silver Glitter Spray. It washes out in two shampoos. Available at salons nationwide. www.redken.com

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Blinc unveiled a lash primer in black to help treat lashes and build volume without diluting the true black finish of the final mascara. Black Lash Primer is formulated with pentapeptide-17 to encourage new lash growth for fuller, longer lashes over time. D-Panthenol and tocopherol acetate impart moisturization and conditioning to protect lashes from damage and environmental stresses. The primer provides a base of volume and length for lashes prior to applying mascara, which must be applied 60 seconds after primer application. The silicon wand was designed to separate and lengthen lashes. Available at Sephora and www.blincinc.com.

Fan Manicure

China Glaze unveiled the next wave of “nail design made easy” with its two new Fan Manicure Kits in Turn It Up and Up All Night. Featuring random stripes in a mix of colors, fan manicures are a nail look that many want to try but have not, mainly because the cost of a good fan brush can be quite high. The China Glaze Fan Manicure Kits include four China Glaze polishes. Each kit also includes instructions with images, the end result meant to resemble organized chaos. Available through salons and professional beauty supply stores nationwide. www.chinaglaze.com

CC Self-tanning

Tanceuticals created a lotion that melds self-tanning with skin benefits such as moisturizing, repairing and firming. The CC Self Tanning Body Lotion, available in dark and light, produces a natural, long-lasting tan without streaks or orange color. In addition, it contains aÇai berry, mango butter and vitamin E to moisturize, repair and firm skin. The product incorporates a fresh coconut scent to eliminate the typical self-tanner smell. www.tanceuticals.com www.GCImagazine.com

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FRAGRANCE FOCUS NEWS Abercrombie & Fitch and Inter Parfums entered a seven-year exclusive worldwide fragrance license agreement wherein Inter Parfums will create, produce and distribute new perfumes and fragrancerelated products, including new men’s and women’s scents planned for both Abercrombie & Fitch and Hollister in 2016. Inter Parfums will distribute these fragrances in specialty retailers, department stores, duty free shops and, potentially, Abercrombie and Hollister retail stores.

The Estée Lauder Companies expanded its fragrance offering once again with the agreement to acquire Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle.

PEOPLE Seth Pasternack to senior marketing manager, Robertet U.S. Antoine de Riedmatten to global sales director, Eurofragance. Steve Raphel and Daniel Grewe to co-presidents, fragrances division, Ungerer & Co. David Rees to encapsulation chemist, CPL Aromas. Benoist Lapouza and Anne-Louise Gautier to perfumers, drom. Mark Magliaro to VP of business development, Tru Fragrance. Olivier Touboul to sales manager, CPL Aromas France. Bell Flavors and Fragrances announced the following appointments: Marlene Espinosa to production manager; Melissa Scharoff to fragrance laboratory manager; Eric Alexander to quality assurance manager; Richard Nero to senior perfumer.

Gone Rogue

On the heels of the November 2014 launch of Rogue Man, Parlux and Rihanna launched the women’s fragrance Rogue Love By Rihanna for the 2014 holiday season. The floral scent features notes of fresh citrus and peach mingling with juicy berries. Honeysuckle, jasmine, orchid and coconut follow, and are backed by base notes of vanilla, golden amber, creamy woods and a hint of caramel. Rogue Love By Rihanna is packaged in a sleek white-on-white stingray patterned carton trimmed with rose gold accents. The bottle design is a heavy glass with inverted spikes kissed in rose gold. A matte white cap complements the carton. The fragrance is available exclusively at Macy’s in 125 mL, 75 mL and 30 mL sizes. www.perfumesbyrihanna.com

Astro Scent

Perfumer and founder of Venice Beach-based botanical fragrance house Strange Invisible Perfumes, Alexandra Balahoutis launched Perfumes of the Zodiac Collection—12 botanical fragrances representing the signs of the astrological chart. The scents are intended to be layered. Each fragrance will be available for $125 as eau de parfum in 15 mL at the Strange Invisible Perfumes Boutique in Venice, CA, and online www.siperfumes.com 12 Fragrance Focus GCI January/February 2015

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FREE OF: Parabens Nitrosamines, EDTA Methylisothiazolinone 1,4 Dioxane Phthalates Bronopol

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Market report: Color CosMetiCs

Despite sluggish growth rates for color cosmetics, consumers, globally, are spending over $1 billion a week on the category— with functionality and fashion as the key drivers.

By RoB WalkeR, euRomonitoR inteRnational

IMPACT POINTS n

Affordability of color cosmetics was the dominant consideration across all consumer age groups.

Beyond the BRIC nations, some of the fastest-growing markets for color include Saudi Arabia, Thailand, Indonesia Turkey, Chile and Colombia

In general, emerging market consumers are more interested in well-known and luxury brands.

The U.S. is the world’s biggest nail polish market, with annual sales now in excess of $1 billion.

Functionality and fashion are the key drivers of color cosmetics.

Market Report: Color Cosmetics

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he color cosmetics category has a lot to answer for. It is the precursor of multi-tasking brands in the beauty industry, notably BB creams, and now everyone is at it. So much so that beauty conscious consumers—especially in Western markets—increasingly expect a single product to perform multiple functions, whether it’s a nail polish, a shampoo or a foundation. It has raised the bar on product innovation, but, more worryingly, it is squeezing the overall value of the market. Why buy two or three products, after all, when one will do just as nicely? Skin care is one of the most visibly affected categories. Anti-aging, toning, moisturizing, sunscreen—these features and more are as common in color cosmetics as they are in skin care, and the cross-category competition is taking its toll. In Western Europe, the annual retail value growth of skin care (at fixed exchange rates) has struggled to get over 1% for the last five years. Color cosmetics have fared marginally better, but growth rates

are far from spectacular. In the key North American market, the category’s retail value growth was approximately 2.5% in 2014— its slowest rate in four years.

to b deci cons

Penny Pinching

Of course, the sluggishness of the market is not all down to multi-functionality. There are external economic pressures, too. But whereas fallout from the 2008 financial crisis in Western Europe and North America seemed to encourage a resurgence of DIY pampering and a mini-boom in cosmetics sales (2009–2012), the current trend is all about getting the best possible value for money. And, yes, multi-tasking brands play right into the trend with their promise of more bang-for-your-buck. According to a new “Personal Appearances” consumer survey by Euromonitor International (based on interviews with 6,000 online consumers in 16 major markets), price is currently, by far, the most important factor when deciding which brands of color cosmetics

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to buy. Across the 16 markets, some 70% of respondents said price was a crucial factor in their decision-making process. Predictably, affordability ranked as a particularly high factor among consumers aged 15–29, but it was the dominant consideration across all age groups.

Emerging Aspiration

It’s not all bad news for color cosmetics. Consumers, globally, are spending a little over $1 billion a week on the category, and there are a number of markets showing enormous promise. Beyond the BRIC nations, some of the fastest-growing markets include Saudi Arabia, Thailand, Indonesia Turkey, Chile and Colombia, for example (based on the latest 2014 projections from Euromonitor International). And a common thread among them is a burgeoning appetite for prestige beauty products, most of which used to be out of reach (either financially or logistically). Euromonitor International’s new global consumer survey on color cosmetics supports this data. It shows that women in emerging markets are significantly more likely than their developed markets counterparts to buy brands that wield quality or prestige credentials. In general, emerging market consumers are more interested, says the survey, in well-known and luxury brands. These findings will not be surprising for industry insiders. But what is surprising, perhaps, is that aspiration continues to be a core driver of consumption trends in the emerging markets, despite the tightening of spending power. There is clear evidence in Latin America, for example, that the new middle class (especially in Brazil) is doing all it can to hold on to its favorite premium color cosmetic brands, even though spending power is dwindling. In practice, this means that consumers are trading down in more humdrum categories, where the aspiration factor is not so important.

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Market Report: Color Cosmetics 15

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Market Report: Color Cosmetics

The Fashion Incursion Aspiration drivers are starting to become more relevant in the developed markets, too, fuelled by the growing participation of big-name fashion brands. The likes of Burberry, Marc Jacobs, Jason Wu and Tory Burch, to name but a few, are ramping up their exposure in makeup, attracted by the comparatively high margins and the value of the category as a magnet for new (typically younger and less affluent) consumers. At the nail bar inside The Burberry Beauty Box in London, which opened in 2013, shoppers can try out different shades of nail polish using iPads. This type of digital innovation is proving a big hit (not least with tourists), and has helped turn beauty products into Burberry’s fastest-growing business division. Now that Burberry’s fashion shows are streamed live on the Internet, the opportunities to showcase makeup are more far reaching than ever before. And with hassle-free online clickand-buy options growing, consumers can

instantly buy the makeup products they see models on the catwalk wearing.

A Nail Polish Surge Makeup is relatively new to the portfolios of fashion labels, but it is arguably a better fit than fragrances, which have been part of the business for much longer. For many women, the shade of a lip gloss is as important as the cut of a hemline, after all. And, for consumers who lack the cash to buy expensive designer apparel, color cosmetics are an affordable way to get a taste of cachet brands. Nail products, in particular, have become popular fashion accessories in their own right—a trend that’s clear in global sales data. Globally, nail polish was a key growth segment in 2013, with retail sales climbing 9% at fixed U.S. dollar prices (compared with lipstick’s 6% and mascara’s 5%). Nail polish appears to again be on course to outperform lipstick, according to Euromonitor International’s provisional 2014 data, and the U.S. is the world’s biggest

nail polish market, with annual sales now in excess of $1 billion. Functionality and fashion—these are two big drivers of color cosmetics as the industry embarks on the 2015 cycle. Brand owners need to be mindful of category cannibalization, though. The greater the functionality muscles that brands flex, the more consumers will grow to expect them as the norm. It is hard to see how multifunctionality will not put a brake on growth rates in affected categories, even as external market conditions improve. Niche brands also need to keep an eye on the fashion houses. Fashion brands are still quite low profile in terms of the overall value of the market, but they are growing fast. They also have oodles of creativity at the front line of selling. It all makes for an innovationpacked year ahead. n GCI

Rob Walker, senior fast-moving consumer goods analyst, Euromonitor International, can be contacted at rob.walker@research7.euromonitor.com.

16 Market Report: Color Cosmetics GCI January/February 2015

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Color Cosmetics, Trends, Ingredients

The Color Essentials

Supplier insights on creating winning color cosmetics, and an overview of color forecasting and trends. By Sara Mason

hen it comes to setting the mood and attitude of a season, color is essential. Creating the right color palette is more important to a product’s success than ever before. As consumers become more trendconscious, they naturally want the products they buy to be colored in the latest fashion shades. Whether you use the forecasts provided by color experts or work together with consultants to develop your own, color forecasts provide reliable, forward-thinking gauge of seasonal color direction.

Color Inspiration In looking for upcoming trends, it is best to look at every design industry where color is key. “These days, color trend forecasters are taking a broader approach to their research, taking into consideration social, cultural and economic drivers in the world and making observations about how these factor affect consumer buying behavior,” says Heather Bochnovich, marketing manager, Presperse Corp. Fashion runways are just one source of inspiration for today’s beauty market. Color insight comes from many other sources—including interior design and fashion. BASF’s color portfolio, for example, compiles its forecast from several industries, including coatings and plastics. “We look across these industries and collaborate cross functionally to help uncover what the next trends are,” says Gabe Uzunian, manager R&D, BASF.

As strange as it might seem, even industrial design is very important. “The automotive industry is an area where finish as well as color is all-important,” explains Leatrice Eiseman, executive director, Pantone Color Institute. “They look far beyond just the next six months. It is the concept cars that are most meaningful, as they show what is on the drawing board.” Interior design, as noted, and home furnishings are good to look at as they indicate current leading lifestyle preferences that can inspire color palettes that could also be used for the beauty category. “There are closer ties between fashion, beauty and interiors than ever before, and consumers are most apt to shop within a certain comfort level—a certain style level and the colors that best express them,” says Eiseman. “While rigid color rules have been replaced by more creative guidelines, style and color coordination in the home remains a consistent goal.”

Texture and Finish Color choices affect emotion and vice versa, yet color trend development has moved beyond color alone. It is also important to look at any product development that employs the latest technologies, as they are often cutting edge in coming up with color directions. “That would include the newer textile and fabric finishes and colors that would indicate, for example, whether matte or surfaces with a sheen are the most important, or if they are equally important,” Eiseman explains. This information can spread into other design areas, cosmetics included.

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“Today, there is more of a focus than ever on texture and finish” says Presperse’s Bochnovich. Matte vs vinyl, powder vs gel—the final choice affects both the visual aspects of the finished product as well as the application experience. “Cosmetic brands need to meet the desires of consumers in terms of sensory application,” says Bochnovich. This is where ingredient suppliers can especially help brands to differentiate themselves in the market. For example, Bochnovich suggests a simple violet eye shadow can be transformed in texture or visual effect by adding different powder fillers to vary the aesthetic or effect pigments to add sparkle or shimmer. “Adaptative textures and colors are emerging for customized benefits,” adds Valerie Pian-Parison, BASF marketing manager, Color Care, Europe. Effect pigments are formed by combining a variety of substrates and coatings. “By manipulating the type of substrate, the type of coating, the particle size of the substrate, we can continue to be innovative,” says BASF’s Uzunian. “Since appearance and color are influenced by these parameters, we can continue to innovate by changing one or more of these components to create novel effects that appeal to the consumer.” Be on the lookout for customized products designed for specific eye colors, and packaging twists drive the formula to new rituals as cushion foundation or lip/skin ink, according to Pian-Parison. Multipurpose products that can appeal to all of the senses is where it’s at. “Products such as self-sharpening eyeliner pencils and applique eyeliners with various shades and textures make application easy and the results runway-worthy,” adds Josef Koester, director, Home Care, Personal Care & Sustainability Marketing, North America, BASF. “Consumers ultimately inspire our innovation,” says Uzunian. That being says, BASF partners with customers to identify unmet market needs and couple this with its own technical expertise to develop pigments. The most recent launches from BASF include Timica Terra Colors which evolved from the consumer trend for mineral makeup. “Our product is derived from natural mica, and provides benefits such as a translucent skin tone and downy after-feel without the look of heavy makeup,” explains Uzunian. R&D teams leveraging the trifecta of unmet customer needs, internal technology innovation/advances and market trends forecasting will drive innovation. “By collaborating with marketing, sales and technology, we are able to bring these key pieces together,” says Uzunian.

Supplier Forecasts Brands also can work with the suppliers who have developed their own authentic trend forecasts, compiled from industry expert sources and observations from customers and consumers. EMD Chemicals has published a series of trend categories and colors for the upcoming seasons. For spring/summer 2015, EMD Chemicals forecasts delicately colored natural skin tones; green-tinged neutral shades; watery blues inspired by calm aquatic colors; intense, energetic and flamboyant reds to electrify the neutrals; tangy pastels tinted with upbeat 1990s-inspired accents; and elegant bright tones of violets with a couture edge. One of four themes is “Aesthete,” for those whose effortless fashions are simple and chic, sophisticated yet relaxed. This collection exudes serenity and balance, featuring nude shades highlighted with deep color. Makeup focuses on ultra-discreet www.GCImagazine.com

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Color CosmetiCs, trends, ingredients effects: satiny complexion, slightly iridescent beige eye shadows, volumizer mascaras, and barely tinged lips and nails. In an athletic and chic vein, cosmetics also will feature navy blue and deep red in dense textures and sharp graphic patterns. Phil Linz, applications analysts at EMD Chemicals, suggests the base formulation for lipstick S15-13: Dark Treasure, with Merck KGaA’s recent launch Colorona SynCranberry as well as Ronastar Gold added for a darker, bluer tone that suits the theme’s cool maritime vibe. It uses the same dispersions as Coral Reef, a truer red, which can be layered on top for an interesting twotone effect. Variations on this shade also could include the use of other reds darkened with black or silver pigments or yellowed with gold-toned pigments. Among its fall/winter 2016 forecasts, EMD Chemicals offers “Main Street,” a high-energy beauty mood that indulges in bold, multicolored graphics, particularly on the eyes and nails. Lips are either richly pigmented or nude and glossy. The modernist feel has a striking 1980s street art vibe, and in eyeliners, vivid color draws attention to the eyes. Composed of typical urban hues, color ranges combine denim blue with casual khaki. Bright accents add graphic power with yellow and red. Green brings a touch of nature. Black and ebony inject a strong attitude, while a mint green refreshes the pallet. For a unique cosmetic product, EMD utilizes two new Rona synthetic micas, Timiron SynBeam Blue and Colorona SynBerry Pink, in a temporary hair colorant essentially formulated as a pressed powder. The colors were chosen to give S15-24 Pink! Hair Chalk a rich pink shade, very much on the blue side. A wide range of pigment shades may be used with this type of product—from earth tones to highly sparkling pigments or other interference pigments—to give hair an arty and edgy look.

The Forecasting Agencies As the most widely recognized color authority, Pantone contributes to and/ or creates forecasts that are indicators of future color/design expectations and are used by diverse industries. Pantone, an X-Rite company, and the Pantone Color Institute provide a range of trend forecast publications, color research and 20

Color Cosmetics, Trends, Ingredients

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customized consultancy to help companies make informed decisions about color for their brands or products in order to gain a competitive edge. According to Pantone, cooler and softer color choices take the main stage in Spring/ Summer 2015 with subtle warm tones to follow a minimalistic en plein air theme, taking a cue from nature. “Soft, cool hues blend with subtle warm tones to create a soothing escape from the everyday hustle and bustle,” says Eiseman. The lead color for women for spring/ summer 2015, Aquamarine is a cool, airy blue with a dreamy feel, while Classic Blue is strong and reliable, serving as an anchor to the palette. Marsala (which Pantone named its 2015 color of the year) is a robust red that incorporates warmth and richness while remaining grounded in its red-brown roots for a sophisticated, natural earthiness. Heading into next fall/winter 2015, softer colors gradually build to more intense shades, finishing with strong bursts of color. “With global fashion trends becoming less constrained by rigid color rules and our feelings about the future more optimistic, consumers are delighting in color expression and continuing to seek out color year round,” writes Pantone in its “The Pantone View Colour Planner Fall/ Winter 2015/2016” report. Pastels will take on a technical look, and browns are juxtaposed with bright, often synthetic or clashing hues, which lift and transform these traditional looking colors into something more modern. Blues will move to the background, being used more so to tint greens, purples and, especially, blacks. Red-infused purples and imbued blacks will continue to grow as well. Cosmetics and color have always been very closely intertwined. “Trends are important, as they supply the necessary ‘wow’ in ads and at point of purchase,” says Eiseman. However, it is important in developing new color products to know your consumer and their lifestyle and not to rely solely on trends. London-based fashion trend forecasting agency Trendstop helps brands discover how cosmetic color, applications and packaging will be evolving over the next three seasons and provides recommendations for consumer product application, including which shades are ideal for your applications and how to successfully combine seasonal shades for GCI January/February 2015

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maximum impact. To find which influential shades are entering and exiting the marketplace each season, Trendstop’s 150 global trend spotters/color experts collect information from fabric mills, color symposiums, tradeshows, runway collections and the work of conceptual artists and designers to create a complete trend color overview. The resulting reports make it easy to follow the trend color lifecycle and translate to your target customer. Two colors highlighted for spring/summer 2015 by Trendstop are Blueberry Milk and Banana Essence, a creamy pastel that is also forecast to continue to be one of spring/summer 2016’s key fashion colors. Innovation and trends consulting agencies also can demonstrate how trends relate to consumers’ evolving attitudes and desires. PeclersParis deciphers and analyzes global macro socio-cultural trends each season, identifying key trends that will specifically impact the beauty market. Peclers methodology combines in-depth sociocultural trend analysis with inspirational insights provided by its creative experts. Year round, Peclers collects data revealing the neverending evolution of the beauty industry—drawing references from sociology, philosophy, business, culture, fashion, contemporary art, news, media and so on. “Our team of experts deciphers and analyzes these emerging signs, classifying them into strategic directions—key trends,” explains Jeanine Milillo, managing director, Peclars Paris. “These key trends are then cross-fertilized with creative input and brought to life via colors, ingredients, materials, fragrances and exclusive visuals.” Peclers’ expertise enables companies to understand the dynamics of a market and select the most pertinent trends, allowing brands to make an emotional connection with their consumers. Peclers is focusing on several themes for 2015/2016, including “Sacred Nature,” with millenary ingredients, myths and mythologies, metamorphosis; “Singularity,” a new wave of individual expression to stand out of the crowd and be unique via body performance, self-staging, disrupting the norms, expressionism but also new trans-cultural ethnical inspirations blending East and West or North and South to generate new aesthetics; and “Normcare.” “Following the fashion phenomenon of Normcore, the beauty market needs to reach the aspiration for more simple, essential, natural products and rituals revealing inner beauty,” explains Milillo. “This induces more care rituals to enhance skin radiance and detox and to achieve a natural look, such as the ‘no makeup makeup’ or hair un-dos trend, for example.” Also, Peclers is forecasting “Floral,” blooming nature with blues, pinks and voluptuous purples; Summer Sunshine, bright or dark oranges, soft yellows and intense pigments; Precious Minerals, metallic and stones such as jade; and Refreshing aquatic greens and turquoise or azure blue for the city or seaside. Whatever the color of the season, on-trend color, as Trendstop notes, is directly linked to consumer moods and aspirations, so getting shades just right can mean a big increase in sales. n GCI

SARA MASON is a freelance write based in the Chicagoland area. She was previously managing editor of GCI magazine.

2015

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Color Cosmetics, Trends, Ingredients

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COLOR TRENDS

Inﬂuence on color and beauty trends comes from a myriad of places and factors. Find out what’s hot and why for color in spring/summer 2015.

BY ROSEANNA ROBERTS

IMPACT POINTS n

Fresh-faced complexions and contoured cheekbones remain a major look.

The next generation of soft hues employs a dirty pretty edge, with hints of shadowy grey undertones.

The popularity of temporary metallic tattoos inspires cosmetics to follow suit, prompting an influx of jewelryemulating makeup such as faux ear and lip rings created with metallic liquid liner. Nails have been a place to experiment with an unconventional palette of blues. As a result, blue has catapulted to popularity in other areas of beauty.

Color Trends

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pring/summer 2015 is one of experimentation. Color application is becoming more liberal and spontaneous, moving to unexpected places like the brows, earlobes and at the roots of hair. Many of the trends from fall/winter 2014–15 continue into spring/summer 2015. In particular, fresh-faced complexions and contoured cheekbones remain a major look. Dewy skin continues to shine with the addition of glossy highlights on high points of the face. Read on to discover the most enticing hues of the season.

Haute Apricot Peachy hues emerge as a fresh, color-tinted variety of spring neutral. These nectar-inspired hues provide a luminous, girl-next-door glow on skin, with a dash of innocence, capitalizing on a growing desire for a simple, lighthearted approach to beauty—and daily life. Cheeks and lips flush apricot with a touch of gold,

while nails take on more intense tangerine hues that channel a playful, happy-golucky vibe. On the runway, these shades are being utilized by Ralph Lauren, Erdem and Nicole Miller.

Shaded Pastels Subtle, muted hues emerge as a counterpoint to the deep saturates of fall/ winter 2014-15. These nouveau pastels are not the sweet tints of seasons past. Texture is paramount, taking on chalky finishes to further update the look. This next generation of soft hues employs a dirty pretty edge, with hints of shadowy grey undertones, emphasizing the growing complexity of the modern woman’s taste. Pale dusty blue and lilac are favored varieties On the runway, these shades are being utilized by Dior (also launching pastel eyeliner stickers), Badgley Mischka and Sally LaPointe.

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COLOR TRENDS

CultuRED There is an undercurrent of nostalgia for the 1980s, and the reemergence of red is leading the movement. This classic hue signals power and strength, a theme that has grown in importance over the past two decades. Nothing says bold-faced confidence and self-assurance like an almighty red. On lips, the color takes on slightly blue cast, evolving from warmer incarnations of seasons past. Cheeks also veer cool. Nails take on the timeless hue with a sense of novelty, after the rainbow of polishes in recent years. On the runway, these shades are being utilized by Zac Posen, Burberry Prorsum and Versus.

The Midas Touch Gold makes a bold statement this season, maximizing impact with considered application (location, location, location!). A little gilt goes a long way, with poignant touches of metallic shine in all the right— and unexpected—places. The popularity of temporary metallic tattoos inspires cosmetics to follow suit, prompting an influx of jewelry-emulating makeup such as faux ear and lip rings

Color Trends

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Color application is becoming more liberal and spontaneous, moving to unexpected places like the brows, earlobes and at the roots of hair. created with metallic liquid liner. While this edgy application may not be for the faint of heart (or traditionalist), subtle touches of bronze and gold hold appeal for sophisticates while retaining a nod to the wild side. On the runway, these shades are being utilized by Dries Van Noten, Anthony Vaccarello and Anna Sui.

Cue the Blue Hues of blue continue to shine for spring/ summer 15. Most coveted for their fresh cool appeal, these shades are at once tranquil and energetic. Recent seasons have seen denim-inspired tones adorning nails, using the hands as a safe zone to experiment with such an unconventional palette. As a result, blue has catapulted to popularity in other areas of beauty. From aquamarine to deep cerulean, a big focus is on the eyes, which shimmer in a variety of smudged, smoked, winged and washed applications. The most adventurous dare to bare a moody pout, but this still remains a fringe color for lips. Matte, gloss and pearl finishes meet in various combinations—creating diverse, dynamic textures to emulate nature’s most luminous, iridescent influences. On the runway, these shades are being utilized by Fendi, Jean Paul Gaultier and Armani. n GCI

ROSEANNA ROBERTS has served as the director of color trends at The Color Association of the United States (CAUS) since 2010. During her time with CAUS, she spearheaded the launch of the beauty forecast—the first new committee to be added to the association in more than 20 years. Roberts also works as a color and trend consultant in New York. Contact her at roseanna@roseannaroberts.com, and peruse more of her work at roseannaroberts.com.

GCI January/February 2015

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Brand Building; CommuniCation

Regardless of industry, consumers want products that are effective, that create new value, that match their own values and an experience that is fun, informative and simple. BY VALERIA COLE

Brand Building; Communication

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have been developing consumer brands and experiences for a variety of technology companies my entire career. Working at iconic consumer companies like Apple, Palm and others taught me a little bit about how to reach and engage consumers, and certainly the experience at Apple has reinforced the aspiration of making products that people LOVE. Recently, however, I decided to fulfill a dream to create an iconic beauty brand that brings the magic of my homeland, Brazil, to the U.S., while preserving the Amazon and a way of life that is so fragile today. This company is called Teadora, which means “Adores you” in Brazilian Portuguese. While there has been a steep learning curve entering the beauty industry from technology, I have had the pleasure of working with many talented advisors and the comfort of one key tenet: “Consumer expectations and behaviors transcend industries.”

Regardless of industry, consumers want a few things: • Products that are effective, that somehow create new value in their lives; • products (and businesses) that match their own values; • an experience that is fun, informative, and, most of all, easy. There have been several things that have struck me as I have made this transition from the tech industry to the beauty industry. First, there is a wealth of best practices in other industries, you just have to look for them. For example, one of my favorite stores is The Home Depot. There is nobody who does a better job of signposting, helping you find things, helping you figure out how to do something right or better. This was a company I kept in mind when thinking about how people experience the search for a product from the Teadora website.

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Brand Building; Communication In the tech industry, there are also many best practices to learn from, and I would like to briefly review about the three that are most top of mind for me.

Figure 1

Three Transferable Best Practices First, the key to successful tech is that technology should be there only to make it easy to achieve results. I call this concept transparent technology. It is only there to make our lives easier. If technology gets in the way of a consumer’s ability to achieve results they value—whether it is an iPhone application or a new type of spray pump—it has failed. One can think that something will interesting to a consumer based on appearances alone, but the truth is nothing is interesting to a consumer unless it easily allows them to achieve better results with less hassle. This has been one of the keys to Apple’s ongoing success. In any sort of technology, packaging or ingredient decision, we constantly ask “does this make it easier for a consumer to get more value?” If the answer is no, it is not part of our product. Second, educating consumers is difficult. Consumers don’t want to spend a lot of time researching, learning, etc.—especially on daily-use products. But several industries have developed some great best practices—and, as noted, these things transcend.

Teadora sought to create a set of highly visual elements that would drive familiarity while taking away the fear of the unknown inherent a whole new set of ingredients with unfamiliar names that can be difficult to pronounce. The company applied lessons from the tech world to create iconography that describes and visually identifies this new set of ingredients in an easy and accessible way. All the packaging has a consistent set of icons that show the key rainforest ingredients used in the product.

One of my biggest takeaways from the tech industry: as computers and devices such as phones became a staple in people’s homes, the importance of iconography in educating consumers was clear—from creating familiarity in easy to grasp concepts such as “Intel inside” to teaching consumers more complex things such as connecting and enabling printers and computers, or simply navigating through a smart phone screen.

The gist of this concept started in the early 1950s in Europe where a concept called Metro design influenced the way people navigated through subway stations and airports. At Teadora, we felt this very common approach in technology, seen nearly everywhere (whether you are using tablets, phones or specific applications) was a great best practice opportunity. Our desire was to introduce a set of amazing ingredients to the U.S. (ones that

28 Brand Building; Communication GCI January/February 2015

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had been used successfully in the Amazon regions for generations) and make them popular. How could we create a set of highly visual elements that would drive familiarity while taking away the fear of the unknown inherent in a whole new set of ingredients with unfamiliar names that can be difficult to pronounce? We chose to take my learnings from the Mac vs. PC days and use iconography to describe and visually identify this new set of ingredients in a very easy and accessible way. Every bottle, every package has a consistent set of icons that show the key rainforest ingredients we use. Other companies in the beauty industry have also taken advantage of this approach, but in a very limited way. In most cases, these companies, of whom we are huge fans of as a small startup, have used iconography primarily in relation to product functionality or as a way to denote certain standards—no animal testing or natural ingredients, as examples. Fresh is a great example of a company besides Teadora that has started using

icons to denote product functionality such as youth preservation, age delay and hydration. Lush and Tata Harper have used iconography to denote standards such as no animal testing, gluten free, no synthetic fragrances and ingredients. We believe the next level of iconography is to go beyond standard functionalities to utilize them to drive education, ownership and rapid familiarity around new and exciting ingredients. Our icons highlight the unique Amazon ingredients we use, which we call the Icons of the Rainforest (Figure 1). Finally, consumers respond to “experiential.” In beauty, the experiential aspect consumers are familiar with tends to be the makeup counter. You sit there, try a few things and make a purchase decision. But walk into a Best Buy, for example. The experience may consist of a big screen, surround sound, chairs where you can put your feet up, a game console with access to the newest games and controllers with tactile feedback that rumble in your grip. The “experiences” of tech are anchored on “immersive experiences” where you enter a

moment in time where all of your senses are part of the experience. For us at Teadora, we have designed our products to take you to a moment in the rainforest: From the moment you see a package and reach for it (like plucking a fruit from a tree) to the tactile feel that tells the consumer it is something different. The scents may be earthy, floral or citrusy. Imagine water, infused with Brazilian super fruits, readily available. The sounds of rain dripping onto leaves. The experience is designed to be immersive, to transport you to your own special moment. The next step is to bring this super immersive experience to retail, so stay tuned. n GCI

Valeria Cole is the founder and CEO of Teadora, which offers high-performance bath and body products made with unique sustainable natural and organic rainforest ingredients. Prior to Teadora, Cole served as a senior director for channel marketing programs at Microsoft, where she led Windows phone marketing efforts with mobile operators, retailers and OEM partners worldwide. Prior to her tenure at Microsoft, she spent six years at Apple as the head of Latin America Marketing. Cole holds a masters in business administration from Our Lady of the Lake University in San Antonio, Texas.

ons ry

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Consumer InsIghts

IMPACT POINTS n

Superstores continue to dominate as the most cited venues for buying mass and masstige brands across most categories, while specialty stores remain top go-tos for makeup and fragrance.

Time-strapped consumers are largely willing to forego great beauty product results for decent results that happen faster.

More than half of women surveyed said they’d try any type of beauty product once, especially if it’s on sale.

The biggest influencer in trying each of the top three categories is “great customer reviews/consumer claims from women like me.”

Consumer Insights

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At look at the products and brands that made the biggest impact in her world in 2014 and how they are shaping her current desires.

BY DENISE HERICH

or U.S. beauty consumers who ventured out of their comfort zones to try something new, 2014 was an exciting year. From makeup to fragrances, beauty devices to tools, the year was filled with innovative products that made a positive difference in her life and the way she sees herself. Confidence is the number one benefit that she derived from trying new beauty products last year, according to The Benchmarking Company’s (TBC) year-end roundup study, “Beauty Wish List 2015.” Fifty-three percent of women said a new product she tried made her feel more confident, “made me feel good” (44%); made her feel more beautiful (39%); or made her skin or hair feel healthier (38%). Interestingly, the feeling of confidence trumps actual product eﬃcacy, as only 32% said the new product she tried solved her particular beauty issue and just 21% said it made them feel younger. Her new wish list is greatly influenced by her new hero beauty SKUs of 2014. She’s anxious to try more, and has her 2015 wish list at the ready. To find out which products and brands made the biggest impact in her world this year, and how they are shaping her current desires, “Beauty Wish List 2015” delves into her attitudes, preferences, beauty purchase patterns and desires in 12 major beauty product categories to expose the brands and products she values most and what she’s looking to buy in 2015.

GCI January/February 2015

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Consumer Insights •

Department stores continue to decline as top venue choices for beauty consumers. Purchase Patterns Point to Specialty Stores in 2015; Internet as Main Influencer Superstores like Walmart and Target continue to dominate as the most cited venues for buying mass and masstige brands in hair care, facial skin care, bath and body, nails, beauty tools, intimate care, sunscreen and devices, but specialty stores such as Sephora and Ulta have become her go-to place to buy makeup (39% of women most often purchase makeup at a specialty store) and fragrance products (32%). Department stores, once a stalwart beauty product venue, continue to decline as top venue choices for beauty consumers, with women citing that they only buy fragrances (28%) most often at a department store. Department stores were not cited in the top three venues for purchasing hair care, facial skin care, makeup, bath & body, nail care, beauty devices, beauty ingestibles, tools, treatments, intimate care or sun care products. Of note: • In addition to specialty stores (48%), women still like to get their new beauty product information through magazines (51%), but blogs (46%), sampling sites (41%) and social media (41%) have become increasingly important as the savvy beauty consumer’s product information portals. Television as a medium she looks to most often for beauty product information has declined in recent years, with only 20% noting television as a primary source. • Women are more time sensitive than ever, and are looking to buy products that fit into her fast-paced lifestyle. In fact, she’s largely willing to forego great beauty product results for decent results that happen faster. When asked which beauty product attributes are most important to them, 93% of women said products using the highest quality ingredients were

somewhat to extremely important; 90% said fast acting (7 day) beauty products yielding decent results were somewhat to extremely important to them. Beauty products taking 28 days to work but yielding fantastic results were somewhat to extremely important to only 75% of women. • Fifty-seven percent of women spend less than 10 minutes a day on their facial skin care regimen; 43% spend between 11-20 minutes on their makeup routine; 42% spend between 11-20 minutes on their hair care routine; and 42% spend between 1120 minutes on their bath and body regimen daily. • A little over half of the women surveyed (51%) said they’d try any type of beauty product once, especially if it’s on sale. Thirty-five percent of women said they try new beauty products as often as they can, even if it stretches her budget; 13% try new products a few times a year; and only 1% call themselves traditionalists, rarely trying new beauty products.

Fun New Makeup Products Get Her to Buy Outside of Her Comfort Zone How comfortable are female beauty consumers with change? Apparently, very comfortable! A full 79% of women say they bought a beauty product outside of their comfort zone in 2014, with 55% saying it was a makeup product; 50% facial skin care product; 32% hair care product; 18% nail care product and 13% fragrance. The following is a deeper dive into three of the specific types of products she was hesitant to buy per category in 2014, which brands she cited as most beneficial to her, what initially influenced her to take a chance on that type of product, and whether or not she would continue to buy it.

•

• Hair care: of those who indicated they tried a new hair care product that they were initially hesitant about purchasing, 28% said it was an at-home hair coloring product; 21% said it was a hair oil product; and 19% indicated it was a dry shampoo product. Overall, 58% like the product they tried and would buy it again. The most highly cited brands per category were L’Oréal and Garnier for at-home hair coloring; Argan and Moroccan (no particular brand name) for hair oil products; and Suave Dry Shampoo, Herbal Essence or TRESemmé in the dry shampoo category. • Facial skin care: of those who indicated they tried a new facial skin care product that they were initially hesitant about purchasing, 20% said it was a serum; 15% said it was a cleanser, mask or peel, or combination (BB, CC) product. Again, 58% said they liked the product and would buy it again. The most highly cited brands per category were Nerium, Origins and Olay for serum products; Neutrogena, Clinique, Garnier and Shiseido for cleanser products; and Garnier and Maybelline for BB cream products.

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• Makeup: of those who indicated they tried a new makeup product that they were initially hesitant about purchasing, 17% said it was a foundation and 15% said it was a lipstick. Overall, 61% of women would buy that new makeup product again. The most highly cited makeup brands were Bare Escentuals liquid foundation and CoverGirl (varied) products for foundation; and L’Oréal, Revlon and Mary Kay (varied) for lipstick products. • Her biggest influence in trying each of these top three categories is “great customer reviews/consumer claims from women like me” at 29% (highest cited influencer) for hair care and facial skin care and 25% (highest cited influencer) for makeup.

32 Consumer Insights GCI January/February 2015

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• When asked to name the particular brand that changed her life in 2014, L’Oréal products of all types topped the list, with L’Oréal-owned Clarisonic products coming in second place, and bareMinerals, Garnier and Olay products mentioned third most often. • BB creams were cited as the #1 specific type of product that changed her life in 2014. • Benefit Cosmetics’ They’re Real Mascara was the most cited specific brand and product name that made a positive difference to her in 2014

Beauty Tools, Devices and Makeup Top Her Wish List When asked “which one new type of beauty product do you want to try in 2015?”, respondents mentioned laser hair removal, airbrush makeup or foundation, and mineral makeup/foundation (general) as products and services they most want to try. Specifically, they want to try products

from Clarisonic (#1 cited), bareMinerals (#2 cited), Urban Decay (#3 cited), Naked (#4 cited) and no!no! (#5 cited) in 2015. All-in-one solutions (multifunctional products) hold high appeal to her as well. In her perfect world, 2015 will offer makeup that reduces wrinkles and moisturizes the face (50% believe that product would hold the highest appeal); 45% are looking for a skin rejuvenation device that reduces wrinkles, smoothes skin and tightens muscles; 43% want a BB cream; and 43% are looking for a facial wipe that cleanses, moisturizes and has SPF in one wipe. Most women who haven’t already tried the brands and products on her wish list say that high expense (54%) is stopping her from trying them, followed by the need to sample the product first (36%). Finally, respondents revealed their holiday wish lists. Makeup assortments/ palettes were the top cited gift she wants to receive next holiday season, followed by a skin care gift set or a beauty device/tool system/set.

Methodology: An online survey of 1,033 women was conducted for this report in October 2014. To qualify for this study, respondents had to be female, live in the U.S. and be between the ages of 18 and 75. To ensure that this study was nationally representative, TBC controlled for important demographic information such as age, income, ethnicity, race and education. Further study findings can be obtained by calling TBC at 1-703-871-5300 or by sending an email to info@benchmarkingcompany. com. Findings will also be revealed in an upcoming TBC infographic. To join the TBC mailing list to receive infographics, visit us at www.benchmarkingcompany.com. n GCI

Denise Herich is co-founder and managing partner at The Benchmarking Company, a bi-coastal consumer research firm borne from Alisa Beyer’s The Beauty Company. The Benchmarking Company provides marketing and strategy professionals in the beauty and personal care industries with forward-thinking, need-to-know information about its customers and prospects through consumer research studies and beauty product testing.

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Consumer Insights 33

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Branding; Package Design; Marketing

By Sheri L. Koetting

eauty marketers are often looking to start a new product line, create a line extension or rebrand an existing offering. Even with laserfocused objectives, there is often uncertainty as to how to navigate the specific steps within the design process. As seasoned practitioners, we find that our clients are frequently overwhelmed by the questions of how and where to begin implementation. Let’s presume that you have done your due diligence. This would include, at a minimum, a thorough discovery and strategic planning stage, interviews with your audience and sales teams, analysis of the competition, and identification of opportunities that form a unique value proposition for your target audience. At this point you have an authentic brand story and should be ready to begin design. What are the design deliverables and in what order should they be executed? For beauty brands with a retail presence, we have found it is often best to start with the number-one consumer touchpoint: the product packaging. This is followed by website design and support collateral such as promotional materials, outreach campaigns and apps.

Packaging Brand Architecture

Though some brands have only a few SKUs, there are many that have extensive product lines, making the design task seem insurmountable. In these larger cases, it would be impractical to begin by redesigning every single product, so how do you identify the essential SKUs that are needed for creating initial design concepts? It is natural to want to focus on your bestselling SKUs. However it more important to have a clear understanding of how each and every SKU in your lineup relates to one another and fits into the overall line. For example a hair care brand might consider presenting all of its styling products as a unified family, versus grouping them by the type of hair treated or by their effect on hair. Only through this understanding can you determine the minimum number of SKUs needed to represent the new design. Not all SKUs are equal, so when starting, be sure to identify representative SKUs with the shortest/simplest and longest/most complex information. This helps avoid surprises down the road.

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Branding; Package Design; Marketing Copywriting

Once representative SKUs have been defined, it is time to move into product naming, if necessary, and copywriting in the form of product information. As a general rule, the content should follow the brand architecture that has been established.

Packaging Elements

Packaging elements such as size, shape, texture and material are important parts of the overall brand experience. If your current packaging does not support your brand positioning, now is the time to take a fresh look. The format—and more importantly, the materials—directly affect how and where the graphics should be applied. This is important to establish before the visual design exploration begins.

bring them in again to provide input on the new branding.

Website With a packaging direction now in place, attention can be turned to telling your larger brand story online. Return to your strategy phase to hone in on all the macroand micro-stories that you want to tell about your brand and products. You have distilled all this information down to its essence for the packaging.

Sitemap and Key Wireframes

All the preceding work, while seemingly long, actually helps to create a design process that can move efficiently. (Note: this doesn’t necessarily mean quick.) The design exploration is crucial, as your brand’s entire visual vocabulary will be defined—your colors, typefaces and primary imagery. To give this stage the most value, your design team should be allotted ample time to explore a wide range of approaches, allowing for groundbreaking work.

A sitemap and wireframes are like the architectural blueprints to a house. Now is the time to plan how and where you want information to be revealed. This planning stage helps focus content objectives as well as the related technology components to best handle that content. Only with a solid wireframe in place can a design and development team give an accurate quote on the budget for subsequent steps, similar to how blueprints for a house help builders determine costs for time and materials. If adjustments to the plan are necessary to meet a budget or target launch date, now is the time to revise your plans before the more costly design exploration begins.

Logo Exploration

Website Design Exploration

Packaging Design Exploration

If your positioning strategy uncovered that a new logo or logo update is in your future, now is the time to bring that into the mix. Although your logo is arguably your most important asset, it is just one element of a brand. How the logo is used matters most. Much of the package design is influenced by the logo’s scale, orientation and placement. Therefore, it makes sense to explore both the logo and package design together. Furthermore, it is important to play a logo out across a variety of materials—from big applications to small, in print and online. This exploration will truly put your brand to the test and help you establish your style guidelines.

Based on the design direction that’s been established, your creative team should be setting the standard for your website by exploring the design across a few key archetype pages and responsive break points. Once the design has been established for these template pages, your development team and content management system can extrapolate the rest. Copy and photography at this stage are still malleable, and there is still an opportunity for these materials to be created to the specifications of the design. Such customizing could be a time-saving measure and can be finalized during the intensive development stage.

Target Audience Input

Programming and Development

Many brands rely on their creative brief to determine if the new branding answers their defined communication objectives and tone. However, if you have engaged your target audience for feedback at an earlier stage, now would be a great time to

Only after the overall design direction is finalized should programming begin. If time is an issue, there may be pressure to release key pages in advance. However, be prepared, as this method often comes with cost implications should something change.

Asset Creation

With a finalized design in place, you are ready to nail down photography and copy. Your design layouts make it easy to know exactly what kinds of shots, word counts and type of copy you will need.

Support Collateral All the elements that went into the packaging and website can now easily be translated into other media. Support materials—including outreach campaigns, social media plans, explainer videos, apps and educational tools—can be used to promote and supplement the packaging and website, your two key touchpoints.

Launch Strategy

When the time comes to unveil your new brand to the world, it is helpful to remember why you got into this process in the first place. Revisit the target audience and the message you are trying to send them. This will help guide your efforts for when and how to best tout your new brand.

Assess and Reapply

Remember, building a brand is an ongoing effort. Have confidence that you have taken the time to build a brand the right way. If a promotional effort does not work, refocus your energies and stories on what is working.

The Benefits

This order of brand execution has worked time and time again for our clients. Although each brand launch comes with its own unique challenges (many of which we did not address here), the underlying principles of how design progresses through a brand repositioning process remains the same. This methodology allows your creative team to focus on the details of each specific assignment while keeping perspective on the big picture. n GCI

Sheri L. Koetting is the co-founder and chief strategist of MSLK, a marketing and design agency based in New York. MSLK specializes in helping beauty brands find their voice in today’s crowded marketplace through 360° brand positioning—from overall brand strategy to brand identity, packaging, retail experience, websites and social media campaigns. sheri@mslk.com; www.mslk.com

36 Branding; Packaging Design; Marketing GCI January/February 2015

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Packaging, Color Cosmetics

Insights in trends and challenges in color cosmetic packaging from Sandra Hutson, Sales & Marketing Director, Topline Products; Damien Dossin, President, HCP Packaging USA, Inc.; Michael Warford, Director of Sales, ABA Packaging. By GCI Editors What are the current trends (both within and outside of cosmetics) influencing color cosmetics and the packaging, and how will those trends impact color cosmetic packaging in late 2015/early 2016? Sandra Hutson: Food inspired packaging, like the “Flickable Luxe Lip Gloss” package that resembles a classic lollipop – my new favorite. Multi-functional packaging and customizable packaging are two other trends I see continuing for at least the next 12 months. Consumers will also see more and more packages that not only look like food products but ones they can modify in some way to suit exactly what they need.

Damien Dossin: “Formula Inside/Out,” where innovative formulas need to be reflected on the outside packaging via intricate designs—metallic soft touch, 3D glitter or 3D droplet decorations, innovative heat transfer foils, or see-through packaging for color identification, such the recent HCP Radii Square Glass compacts range. Also, in texture/feel—textured packs/decoration that use new materials in combination with existing packaging.

SH: There is so much competition in the marketplace that it’s hard for some brands to get noticed—given the multitude of products making noise in the background. Topline recently manufactured a kit for the brand Cargo called “Destination: Gorgeous.” One of the features that made this kit stand out from the crowd was its “open package” design for maximum on-shelf impact with striking four color graphics – you see immediately what’s inside and it really catches the eye of the consumer.

As formulas grow in sophistication, so, too, should the packaging, and intricate design work serves this purpose.

Food inspired packaging, such as the “Flickable Luxe Lip Gloss” package, are among the ongoing trends.

What are the challenges a brand faces to stand out in color cosmetics/on the shelf, and how are suppliers addressing those challenges?

The “open package” design of Cargo’s “Destination: Gorgeous” is intended to create maximum on-shelf impact.

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Packaging, Color Cosmetics DD: Decoration is key for brands to stand out on the shelf; it can be a challenge to reflect exactly the brand design requirements on the packaging. HCP’s continuous research and development of new innovative decorations has helped our clients to reach their consumers.

What are the forthcoming innovations we can expect to see in color cosmetic packaging? SH: You will see more special decoration effects such as 3D printing, which will give a tactile finish to packaging.

minimizing light exposure. This fun and innovative look is the result of a specialize and patented molding process that has been developed by OEKAbeauty and a key partner in Germany. The first package to be introduced using this new technology is the new “Lipshow” package. And for lip gloss application, we have created a series of new flocked applicators that improve on the rate of product applied. These applicators include the “Jewel Kiss,” “Lipstick”, and the “Velvet and Soft Caress” versions. For lipstick/lip stain products, we have recently developed an airless lipstick package, “Rouge Passion.” This unique and innovative product is shaped like a conventional lipstick pack but it actually dispenses a liquid formula via the airless dispensing system that is integrated into the package.

What are game changing innovations in color cosmetic packaging and what’s their impact on the market?

Decoration effect options possible with 3D printing will provide more tactile options for packaging.

DD: Precise application and applicators will continue to play a big part in color cosmetics packaging. One area that will grow for sure in the coming years is the impact on and relationship of the color cosmetics packaging with the environment. Mike Warford: ABA Packaging represents OEKAbeauty, which has been hard at work creating some very interesting innovations: a number of new fiber brushes in some very innovative shapes with special fibers designed to enhance the application rate of the mascara product while effectively using the same brush for combing, separating and/or defining. Examples include the “Lash Kiss” and “Volume Definer” brushes. We have also been focusing on creating smaller and more manageable brushes for smaller and finer lashes, notably the “Black Pearl” and “Highlighter” brushes. In packaging for lip products, we have just introduced an injection blow-molded vial that has a molded in window to enable the consumer to see the product color while

SH: New innovations that provide sensorial effects for cosmetics packaging are continuing to impact the market. One example is the unique “Reshaping Tool” designed and manufactured by Topline Products for Living Proof, and an essential part of the brand’s Neotensil Daily UnderEye Reshaping Procedure Complete Kit. It is engineered to help deliver smooth, consistent layers of the Neotensil formulae onto the skin. Topline was challenged by the brand to create an ergonomic, elegant tool that would efficiently improve the application of product’s formulations to the eye area. The real innovation of this tool is the tip—a component using special materials to produce a cold sensation on the skin that could help relieve congestion on the contour of the eye. This is just the start of things to come. We are seeing more and more changes to what used to be simple applicator Topline is seeing more and more changes to what used to be simple applicator packages, beginning with major improvements to functionality and the application of skin care and makeup products. The “Reshaping Tool” designed and manufactured for Living Proof is one example.

packages. Major improvements to functionality and the application of skin care and makeup products are just the beginning. DD: Game changing innovations include easy-to-use packaging (with no age limit) such as the twist-up pencil for lip/eye applications and one-handed to open packs. On the brand side, makeup tutorials or vlogs—the wider current digital/ mobile phone trend has impacted color cosmetics (notably, the Google glass video tutorials recently launched by YSL). And custom design packaging—again, brand recognition on the shelves is key. HCP has helped many brands achieving brand recognition by tooling up complete bespoke packaging, like metal caps for Nails inc’s Nailkale and compacts for Merle Norman and Charlotte Tilbury. Other influences also include celebrity influence, with more and more celebrity launches (such as the Kim Kardashian lip gloss recently launched by HCP USA) and crossovers from other categories—like makeup formulas with skin care benefits. Consumer perception of products is also changing. The Nails inc brand is an example of prestige in the nail market, with consumers’ perception of nail polish as products to cherish.

What is your favorite new color cosmetic packaging component? SH: My favorite has to be “Flickable Luxe Lip Gloss”—it’s a fun, flirty, adorable lip gloss with a twist; there is no other package on the market that looks like it. The unique, retro package design transports you back to your childhood memories. The lollipop shape helps to communicate the sweet, irresistible flavors of the lip gloss. The design required a strong technical mastery to make the lollipop shape a functional lip gloss component; normally a classic lollipop handle would be too ergonomically small to generate the torques needed to open and close the product. DD: The Charlotte Tilbury champagne gold makeup range, created through a special partnership with LaFrance for its extensive and prestigious top plate capabilities—and, of course, influential blogger Charlotte Tilbury. n GCI

40 Packaging, Color Cosmetics GCI January/February 2015

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WRAP UP

The latest in Packaging innovation

controlled dispensing

A Parisian Twist

MeadWestvaco Corporation (MWV) added Amplify to its skin care dispensing portfolio. Amplify is an airless solution that combines the convenience of a pump-on-a-tube with the protection and soft actuation of the company’s patented Rolling Bellow engine technology, and designed to provide comfortable, easy delivery; consistent and controlled dispensing; product protection; and a convenient, on-the-go experience. www.mwv.com

Sothys selected Topline Products to create lipstick case and powder compacts for its new makeup line of 60 products. To give the cases a luxury touch, Sothys opted for matte black lacquer with a shiny black medallion featuring the brand’s emblem. The cases play on the contrast between transparence and opacity, matte and shine; the lipstick, with its pure silhouette, emerges from a shiny black tube. www.topline-usa.com

Travel Sized Sets

Topline Products

Topline Products introduced the Air-Tight Mini Crayon, a mini-sized and airtight design for the latest long wear and waterproof formulations for lips and eyes. Although shorter than other bullet-style packaging on the market, Topline’s airtight packaging, in five new bullet shapes, has a higher fill weight—four grams versus around three grams in the full-sized version. www.topline-usa.com

Closures in Action

Qosmedix introduced two TSA compliant travel sized bottle sets containing clear empty cosmetic packaging containers, all under 3.4 oz. The 5-Piece Travel Set includes one lotion pump bottle, two spray bottles and two flip top bottles. The 10-Piece Travel Set includes one lotion pump bottle, one flip top bottle, one spray bottle, two twist cap bottles, two jars, one funnel, one dropper and one spatula. Both sets are packaged in a reusable clear zipper bag with hang tab. www.qosmedix.com

Woo

M&H Plastics’ braille tubes and bottles won the Worshipful Company of Horners Bottlemakers national award, which recognizes the importance of plastics in bottle making. The tubes and bottles have a 0.3 mm high build braille dot that allows those people with visual impairments to identify products both at the retail environment and in practical use in the home. Toly Products won the Luxury Packaging Awards 2014 in the Cosmetics and Personal Care category for the state-of-the-art Air Lift Pump System utilized by Geneu for its DNA based anti-aging skin care product. Ampac launched its Design and Sample Lab (DASL) for quick delivery of custom sample concepts and technologies. Located at Ampac’s headquarters in Cincinnati, Ohio, DASL houses new equipment and capabilities for design, art, printing and production of one-off or small quantities of commercial quality pre-made pouch prototypes of new concepts. DASL also creates new design modifications or new art for consumer, packaging or marketing evaluations.

John Webb II to automation manager and James Curtis to program and project manager, VariBlend. Charles Chang, Topline Products’ president, was presented the Rutgers School of Engineering’s Dean’s Award for Service at the school’s annual ‘Medal of Excellence’ event honoring distinguished Rutgers University School of Engineering alumni. The award recognizes those who have contributed to strengthening the school and its programs through personal commitment and dedication. Chang was instrumental in revitalizing the packaging engineering program at Rutgers, which grew to 150 students in 2014. The program has also established student internships and co-op opportunities with leading packaging companies, as well as a packaging scholar program and programs leading to graduate degrees. In the 2015 spring semester, it will join forces with the business school to offer MBA/MS degrees in packaging engineering and supply chain management. These efforts are supported by the Rutgers Packaging Engineering Advisory Board, a group of key industry decision makers with Chang as chairman.

Aptar Beauty + Home dispensers and closures were utilized for Kenra’s new line of retail after-care products. Kenra anti-frizz mask is topped by the 2-inch Disc Top closure, the anti-frizz styling spray is topped by the EuroLock twist-to-lock fine mist spray, the anti-frizz oil is topped by the Cardinal lotion dispenser and anti-frizz crème is topped by the Flamingo twist-to-lock lotion dispenser. Aptar Beauty + Home also provided the consumer-friendly 2-inch Purity tube top for Johnson’s Baby Intense Moisture Cream. www.aptar.com/beauty-home

Anti-aging in Jars

Clinical anti-aging skin care brand StriVectin partnered with Fusion Packaging for two 2014 product launches. The brand selected Fusion’s 30 mL and 50 mL Couture jar and 5 mL Ice jar for its Extreme Cream, as well as the 100 mL Ice jar for the Nourishing Cleansing Balm. The double-walled Couture jar offers a luxurious yet clinical aesthetic, and for StriVectin, Fusion applied a shiny silver spray to the inside of the outer jar for added dimension, paired with minimal silkscreened decoration. To complete the look, the closure features a sprayed silver inner cap with a clear outer cap. Fusion’s Ice jar is single-walled PETG. The jar used by StriVectin features a crisp white base and closure with simple silkscreen and hot stamp art to mirror the clean and gentle formula. www.fusionpkg.com

42 Wrap Up GCI January/February 2015

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Promens introduced wooden caps for its collection of cosmetic jars. According to the company, wood brings benefits such as a high perceived value, a new sensorial experience and emotion. In conjunction with a plastic cosmetic packaging, it gives a sense of luxury, timelessness and elegance. All 100% solid wooden caps from Promens are made from wood sourced from PEFC certified suppliers (those who source from sustainable forests). They are available in several species (though the primary wood for cosmetic applications is ash), and can be worked into an infinite variety of forms, sizes and thickness. After the polishing stage, the wooden caps can be varnished or lacquered. Engraving, laser marking, hot stamping, silk screening and pad printing are the last steps to add more value. The caps require a plastic insert, added at the last stage of production, for functionality. www.promens.com

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In-Mold Labelling

To develop the packaging for Hair Capital’s new premium KER hair care products, TricorBraun recommended in-mold labeling as a decoration technique that delivers brilliant full-tube graphic coverage, a resilient surface finish and maximum shelf impact. For the labels TricorBraun turned to Viva Healthcare Packaging, whose patented injection molded tube technology and in-mold labeling capability embeds the label in the tube, where it forms an integral part of the wall. This process allows the full surface of the KER tubes to be decorated and gives Hair Capital maximum flexibility in creating graphics. The process also eliminates surface decoration that can flake or peel. Further, the all-polypropylene tubes are completely recyclable. www.tricorbraun.com

single-, doublewall solutions

Fusion Packaging announced the addition of five new collections to its selection of luxury stock packaging. The Trace, Mod, Haute, Vibe and Crescent collections will provide brands with a wider variety of single- and doublewall packaging solutions. With 19 new bottles and jars ranging in size from 10 mL to 120 mL, these stock collections offer customization options and flexibility in new product launches or repackaging projects. www.fusionpkg.com www.GCImagazine.com

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Luxury Coffret

Cosfibel Premium is launching a new version of its patented Ultralight coffret—Ultralight Beauty Box, which is both coffret and point-of-sale merchandising display. Designed by Cosfibel’s Creation Committee in 2009, Ultralight caters to a desire for luxury and eco-friendly packaging, providing board that is surprisingly lightweight while remaining stiff and thick. Its streamlined design features wide edges and sharp angles and can be easily recycled. www.cosfibelgroup.com Wrap Up 43

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MAIN INGREDIENTS

Ingredients now on the market

Sugar Surfactants

Clariant launched a range of sugar-based surfactants that effectively cleanse the skin and hair while being mild and having pleasant sensorial effects. GlucoTain surfactants minimize traditional formulation trade-offs by combining new sensorial experiences for consumers with opportunities for formulation innovation and sustainability. The sugar-based surfactants are available in a range of individual foam structures to offer a variety of sensorial attributes. The renewable surfactant range, based on glucose and natural oils, embraces mildness without compromising on cleansing. GlucoTain Clear is an EO-free and polyethylene glycol-free (PEG-free) option for a fresh and light solubilization of fragrances in a variety of products. GlucoTain Clean is a deep cleanser with an emphasis on mildness. GlucoTain Care is a gentle surfactant that conditions and moisturizes. Finally, GlucoTain Flex is a versatile solution to offer freedom when formulating, and supporting the development of sulfate-free and CAPB-free formulations. www.clariant.com

Pea Rejuvenation

BASF unveiled an extract of the bambara pea that rejuvenates the epidermis for a more youthful appearance. Epigenist re-innervates the epidermis by reversing the natural degradation of the nervous fibers and restarting their growth (neuritogenesis). The company emphasizes that they key to an ageless look is the maintenance of the epidermis. A young epidermis is dense, thick, and its major components are continuously regenerated. With age, epidermal innervation decreases, and this depletion causes epidermal thinning. By reversing the degradation of nervous fibers, the African bambara pea extract counterbalances passing time. Therefore, the active is able to rejuvenate aged skin and make it appear visibly younger. Longevity of cells is improved, the epidermis is thicker and better organized and the proliferation of cells is increased. The active is recommended in daily anti-aging treatments, products for dull skin and fine wrinkle treatment. www.personal-care.basf.com

Squalane Emollient

Amyris Inc. expanded its Neossance Squalane product for its second personal care launch. Neossance Hemisqualane is a plantderived, light emollient with high spreadability and a multifunctional performance in various product segments. The hemisqualane is a natural alternative to paraffin and silicone ingredients in skin, hair, sun care, makeup and cleansing products. Hemisqualane has a soft and silky after feel with the ability to maintain a persistent emollience on the skin, making it a beneficial ingredient for many skin care products. In addition, its ability to dissolve crystalline UV filters makes it an ideal ingredient for sun care products. In makeup, hemisqualane facilitates a smooth and even application for lipsticks and foundations due to its high spreadability. It also demonstrates cleansing properties for makeup removal applications. For hair care, hemisqualane has good slip and a soft after feel; it protects hair from color degradation and thermal damage; and it reduces frizz. Hemisqualane is certified natural with Ecocert and the Natural Products Association (NPA). It is a USDA-certified 100% bio-based product. States. www.amyris.com, or www.centerchem.com in NA 44 Main Ingredients

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SUPPLIER NEWS

Croda International Plc was awarded first place in the innovation segment, second in the chemical sector category and eighth place overall in Management Today’s 2014 Britain’s Most Admired Companies Awards. Cosmetic Science Innovations (CSI) has relaunched its business in a new location in Union, N.J., USA. Lipotec’s Actigym has won the Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Award at in-cosmetics Asia 2014. DKSH and BTC Chemical Distribution (a subsidiary of BASF) will start a strategic collaboration to distribute BASF’s personal care and household colorants in 14 Asian countries. Univar Inc. has acquired D’Altomare Quimica Ltda., a Brazilian distributor of specialty chemicals and ingredients, through Univar Brasil Ltda. The acquired business will be combined with Univar’s Brazil operations. Innospec Inc. has achieved the Round Table for Sustainable Palm Oil’s (RSPO) Mass Balance (MB) multi-site certification for all of its relevant manufacturing sites. Sederma is celebrating 50 years of being a cosmetic active ingredient supplier. For its anniversary, the company is inviting the industry to meet the people at Sederma on its Facebook and LinkedIn page. Clariant has announced plans to build a new production facility at its Tangerang, Indonesia site to support regional demands in the personal and home care industry. Silab is the third most performing independent small and mediumsized enterprise (SMEs) in France out of 150, as ranked by by the magazine L’Express-L’Entreprise, Ernst & Young and Ellisphere. Evonik Corp. has named Univar Inc. the distributor for its personal care ingredients in the Northeastern United States. Evonik will continue to sell its silicone-based products directly. Naturex established a sales office in Santiago, Chile following the January 2014 acquisition of Chile Botanics and its factory in Linares.

PEOPLE Kelly Dobos to technical manager of cosmetics for the Americas at Sun Chemical. Jean-Yves Berthon, president of the Greentech Group, was awarded the French Society of Cosmetology Award by the Société Française de Cosmétologie (SFC).

Anti-inflammatory Active

Greentech launched an anti-inflammatory active that was developed to prevent the major causes of “inflammaging.” Xymelys 45 inhibits the inflammatory enzymes cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) and 5-lipooxygenase (5-LOX). This inhibition soothes and calms skin while it prevents the irritation that causes aging. In addition to its antiinflammatory action, the active also has antioxidant activity, which protects the skin from oxidative stress and free radicals. The active was reported to have four times the antioxidant activity of açai extract. It also has astringent and mattifying properties. www.greentech.fr GCI January/February 2015

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in-cosmetics Asia Launches Natural AHAs

Naturex debuted its new line of natural alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) for the skin as part of its Natural Radiance collection of synergistic brightening ingredients. AHAs are well known in the skin care industry for their ability to eliminate dead cells and stimulate cell renewal, They also improve hydration and protect the skin from oxidative damage. However, natural AHAs are typically only available at relatively low concentrations. Therefore, Naturex designed extracts of hibiscus (rich in specific hibiscus acids) and cranberry (rich in citric, quinic and malic acids) with concentrations in AHAs ranging from 7 to 45% to suit formulation needs. Available are the following AHAs with noted organic acid content: Hibiscus LG, > 10%; Hibiscus PE, > 45%; Cranberry LG, > 7%; Cranberry Juice, > 18%; and Cranberry PE, > 30%. The Natural Radiance collection also includes Lemon Balm, Rhodiola and Licorice Glabra to even skin tone and Licorice Uralensis and Schizandra to reduce and control inflammation. www.naturex.com

Skin Energizer

Stimulating Melanin

Seppic introduced an active that encourages skin to produce more melanin for a healthy tan. Sepisun Flash was designed to produce a bronzed effect on the skin throughout the year without sun exposure. The active is also said to help the skin tan faster with UV exposure to reduce excessive tanning. Also, it was found to prolong the tan long after the summer is over. The company is in the process of having the active Ecocert-approved. The active can be used alone or in association with self-tanning actives (dihydroacetone and erythrulose). It can also be used in combination with other pro-pigmenting active ingredients, chemical UVA and/or UVB filters or mineral sunscreens. It can enhance performance with diverse carriers. www.seppic.com

Epigenome Preservation

Silab debuted an anti-aging active that reduces modification of the epigenome with time to allow cutaneous cells to better respond to stress and live longer. Epigenomyl is rich in oligosaccharides from calendula to smooth the skin’s microrelief, reduce wrinkles and even skin tone. The active was found to boost the mechanisms involved in epigenetic regulation—modification of histones (H3K9 and H2AX) and miRNA expression. This reduces epigenome modification from the environment, which ages skin. It was also found to normalize procollagen I synthesis and preserve the organization of elastin and fibrillin 1 fibers. The active is recommended for all anti-aging skin care. www.silab.fr

Prod’hyg designed a blackcurrant bud extract to energize and oxygenate the skin. Prodhygem O2 was produced based on “gemmotherapy,” a practice that focuses on the meristem— vegetal tissue in a plant’s bud—as the plant’s growth area and energy hub. To harvest the blackcurrant buds, the company uses a specific extraction method to source both the native and vital molecules concentrated in that region. Prodhygem O2 is a hydroglycerinated extract of French blackcurrant buds. It has a booster effect in the skin’s cells and targets its action at the very heart of biological energy cycles and more specifically those promoting the synthesis of adernosine triphosphate (ATP). The extract is recommended in skin care for tired and devitalized skin, eye contour care, anti-aging care, toners and men’s care. www.prodhyg.com

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Whitening Beads

Induchem introduced spherical beads that instantly improve skin imperfections while whitening skin. Flashwhite Unispheres work in five seconds. In addition to its correcting and whitening efficacy, the spheres also enhance the visual attractiveness of a product. They include 20% titanium dioxide, 2% lemon extract and 1% cucumber extract as additives. In addition, they are small at 500–900 µm. The beads are virtually insoluble in water, oils and all other common cosmetic vehicles. They are recommended in skin care products such as gels, creams, serums, essences or lotions. Flashwhite Unispheres were featured at the show’s Skin Lightening Trail, which was compiled by Cosmetics & Toiletries associate editor Katie Anderson. www.induchem.com

www.GCImagazine.com

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Products and SERVICES

showcase

CONTRACT MANUFACTURING

For quality custom reprints or e-prints, please contact:

Foster Printing Services 1-866-879-9144 sales@fosterprinting.com • www.fosterprinting.com

Products and Services Showcase

GCI1501_PS Showcase_fcx.indd 46

GCI January/February 2015

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www

CONTRACT MANUFACTURING

CONTRACT MANUFACTURING HEALTH • BEAUTY • OTC • HOUSEHOLD PRODUCTS A TOTAL SERVICE – Formulation to Drop Shipping Long and Short Runs FDA-EPA Registered Visit our web site at www.ecometics.com 19 Concord St., So. Norwalk, CT 06854

ECOMETICS INC. 203-853-7856

PACKAGING

To reserve space in this section, contact Kim Jednachowski kjednachowski@allured.com • 1-630-344-6054 Tom Harris tharris@allured.com • 1-201-445-4702 Jane Evison jane-evison@btconnect.com • 44(0)-1430-441685

2015

www.GCImagazine.com

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Products and Services Showcase

1/20/15 11:56 AM

Ad Index The Advertiser Index is provided as an additional service for readers to obtain information on companies and their products. The publisher assumes no liability for omissions or errors.

Page

Advertiser

Phone

WEB SITE

AMA Laboratories, Inc.

1-845-634-4330

www.amalabs.com

Anisa International, Inc.

1-404-869-6475

www.anisa.com

BASF

1-973-245-6000

www.carecreations.basf.com

Berjé, Inc.

1-973-748-8980

www.berjeinc.com

Bioscreen Testing Services

1-310-214-0043

www.bioscreen.com

Centerchem, Inc.

1-203-822-9800

www.centerchem.com

Classic Cosmetics, Inc

1-818-773-9042

www.classiccosmetics.com

Coast Southwest, Inc.

1-714-524-2777

www.coastsouthwest.com

Cosmax USA, Inc.

1-917-553-4555

www.cosmaxusa.com

Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit

1-630-653-2155

summit.CosmeticsandToiletries.com

Croda, Inc.

1-732-417-0800

www.crodausa.com

East Hill Industries, Inc.

1-972-367-6060

www.packagingcosmetics.com

Fusion Packaging

1-214-747-2004

www.fusionpkg.com

Grant Industries

1-201-791-8700

www.grantinc.com

HCP Packaging

1-203- 924-2708

www.hcpackaging.com

Inoac Packaging Group, Inc.

1-502-348-5159

www.inoacusa.com

JSN Packaging Products, Inc.

1-949-458-0050

www.jsn.com

Kolmar Laboratories

1-845-856-5311

www.kolmar.com

Lady Burd

1-800-345-3448

www.ladyburd.com

McKernan Packaging Clearing House

1-775-356-6111

www.mckernan.com

Cover 3

New High Glass

1-305-232-0840

www.newhigh.com

9, insert

Singapore Economic Development Board

65-656-232-8574

www.singaporebusiness.com

Reed Exhibitions/in-cosmetics Europe

44-208-910-7976

www.reedexpo.com

SCC California/Suppliers' Day

1-212-668-1500

www.caliscc.org

SCC New York/Rheology Course

1-845-639-4045

www.nyscc.org

schülke, Inc.

1-973-770-7300

www.schuelke.com

Spectra Colors Corp.

1-201-997-0606

www.spectracolors.com

Sun Deep Cosmetics, Inc.

1-800-985-2228

www.sundeepinc.com

The Beauty Company

1-202-686-4844

www.thebeautycompany.co

U.S. Nonwovens

1-631-952-0100

www.usnonwovens.com

Welch Holme & Clark Co., Inc.

1-973-465-1200

www.welch-holme-clark.com

Cover 4

Cover 2

for advertising info Kim Jednachowski

Tom Harris

Jane Evison

Paige Crist

All US States Except NJ & PA kjednachowski@allured.com 1-630-344-6054

NJ & PA, Canada, Central & South America tharris@allured.com 1-201-445-4702

Europe & Asia jane-evison@btconnect.com 44-(0)-1430-441685

Fragrance pcrist@allured.com 1-630-730-9240

48 Ad Index GCI January/February 2015

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PENTAVITIN速

Feel deep hydration for 72 hours DSM Nutritional Products Europe Ltd. 45 Waterview Boulevard, Parsippany, NJ 07054 United States of America Phone: +1 800 526 0189 FAX: +1 973 257 8580 Email: info.pc-na@dsm.com www.dsm.com/personal-care North American Distributor: CENTERCHEM, INC. 20 Glover Avenue, Norwalk, CT 06850 Phone: 203 822 9800 FAX: 203 822 9820 Email: cosmetics@centerchem.com www.centerchem.com

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PENTAVITIN速 with its unique affinity to skin ensures instant, deep hydration by generating a moisture reservoir that lasts for 72 hours after last application. Consumer test panel confirms more than a 50% reduction in flakiness and itchiness caused by dry skin. PENTAVITIN速 is the first soothing active for hair care rinse-off products developed to deeply hydrate the scalp and relieve its sensitivity. PENTAVITIN速 is ECOCERT approved and NATRUE certified as well as China compliant.

1/7/15 10:42 AM