Global Cosmetic Industry, GCI March by yvesrocherdemx

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CONTENTS MARCH 2015

n VOLUME 183, NUMBER 2

features 16 How to Successfully Structure Your Marketing Foundation

Uncovering why you do what you do will help you determine your vision and create a solid foundation to build and market your business.

columns 4 Starting Point: Like a Record That’s Skipping BY JEFF FALK

40 The Whole Package: As the Modern Male Consumer Evolves, So Must His Packaging

BY BETH COCHRAN

BY ALEXANDER KWAPIS

18 Seeking the Perfect Complexion

Understanding the cause of hyperpigmentation and the action of ingredients that address hyperpigmentation is key to developing impactful skin care products. BY ADA S. POLLA AND ANNE POUILLOT

22 Form, Function or Fun?

What to keep in mind when designing packaging for each generation of consumer. BY LISA DOYLE

26 Three Ways that Beauty Product Testing Breathes New Life into Mature SKUs

Conducting consumer perception testing or beauty product testing to garner hard-hitting consumer claims is a smart marketing move for any beauty brand with a new product about to go to market.

departments 5 12 14 41 42 45

Go: Innovations, ideas and insights Street Level: New products, promotions and events Fragrance Focus: News about the fragrance industry Wrap Up: The latest in packaging innovation Main Ingredients: Ingredients now on the market Events Calendars

BY DENISE HERICH

30 Manscaping and Subscriptions: New Paradigms in Facial Hair

Competition in male grooming/shaving has been on the rise. The high cost of shaving, a growing acceptance for unshaven faces and the full beard fashion trend contributed to the slowdown of razor and blade sales in 2013. As a result, market leaders are looking to expand their consumer base by capturing a niche but growing consumer group—men that shave their body.

resources 45 Products & Services Showcase 48 Advertiser Index

BY NICOLE TYRIMOU, EUROMONITOR INTERNATIONAL

32 Four Tips for Marketing Men’s Products to Guys and the Women Who Buy for Them

Many ads and marketing messages portray men as buffoonish or overtly feminized, but the truth is that most men fall somewhere in between. Here are four tips when creating claims and marketing messages for men—and the women who buy for them. BY SCOTT GARRISON AND SOURABH SHARMA

36 It’s All About the Facial Hair: Trends in the Men’s Grooming

Men’s growing interest in their personal appearance and the fashion for full beards is shaping trends within the men’s grooming market.

online Uneven Skin Tone: Causes and Treatments BY KATERINA STEVENTON

Earned Media Earns Its Rightful, Beautiful Place BY CANDACE LEE

BY IMOGEN MATTHEWS www.GCImagazine.com

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EDITORIAL Director Editor in Chief Editor Associate Editor

Jo-El M. Grossman Jeff Falk 1-630-344-6071/jfalk@allured.com Rachel L. Grabenhofer 1-630-344-6072/rgrabenhofer@allured.com Katie Anderson 1-630-344-6077/kanderson@allured.com

ADVERTISING SALES Vice President Business Development Manager U.S. (NJ & PA), Canada, Central & South America Business Development Manager All U.S. states except NJ & PA Business Development Manager Europe & Asia Business Development Manager Fragrance Marketing Specialist Coordinator

Brian Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Rourke 1-630-344-6030/borourke@allured.com Tom Harris 1-201-445-4702/tharris@allured.com Kim Jednachowski 1-630-344-6054/kjednachowski@allured.com Jane Evison 44(0)-1430-441685/jane-evison@btconnect.com Paige Crist 1-630-344-6060/pcrist@allured.com Brittany Best 1-630-344-6076/bbest@allured.com Kasia Smialkowski 1-630-344-6025/ksmialkowski@allured.com

AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT Director Customer Service

Linda Schmitt Jamie Schmidt 1-888-399-0899/customerservice@gcimagazine.com

DESIGN Manager Senior Graphic Designer Production Manager

Andy Frederick Hon Bannapradist Bryan Crowe

CORPORATE President Controller Group Show Director Digital Products Director Executive Assistant

Allured Business Media 1-630-653-2155 â&#x20AC;˘ fax 1-630-653-2192 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 USA www.Allured.com European Office: Jane Evison, East Yorkshire, England

Janet Ludwig Linda Getner Sandy Chapin Rose Southard Maria Romero

OTHER ALLURED PRODUCTS Alluredbooks Cosmetics & Toiletries Bench Reference Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine: Portuguese edition Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit Face & Body Spa Conference and Expo Flavorcon Perfumer & Flavorist magazine Skin Inc. magazine World Perfumery Congress

Global Cosmetic Industry (ISSN 1523-9470) is published ten times per year as Jan./Feb., March, April, May, June, July/Aug., Sept., Oct., Nov. and Dec. issues by Allured Business Media, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream IL 60188-2403 USA. Copyright 2014. Free subscriptions to Global Cosmetic Industry are available to qualified individuals. The publisher reserves the right to determine qualification of free subscriptions. Replacement issues are available only through single copy sales. Single copies: $10; GCI Directory Issue: $35 (Add $10 per order shipped to Canada; add $15 per order to all other countries.) Periodicals postage paid at Carol Stream IL 60188 and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Please send address changes to Global Cosmetic Industry, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 USA. Change of address: Give both the new and old addresses. Allow two months for a change to become effective.

Members of the American Business Media. All correspondence regarding business, editorial, advertising and production should be sent to Global Cosmetic Industry, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 USA. Allured Business Media makes all attempts to publish accurate information; however, this publication may contain technical inaccuracies or typographical errors. The reader assumes all risks concerning the suitability and accuracy of the information within this publication. Allured Business Media assumes no responsibility for and disclaims all liability for any such inaccuracies, errors or omissions in this publication and in other documents referred to within or affiliated with this publication. www.GCImagazine.com

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GCI March 2015

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Exploring the Future

of Product Development

is returning to Philadelphia on

June 22 & 23, 2015 Featuring: • High-level technical conference sessions • Transferable research from alternate ﬁelds • Hands-on, skill-building workshops • Networking with fellow scientists

What did 2014 attendees think of C&T Summit? “Everything has been outstanding...the venue, great topics and great speakers.”

—Michele Robertson, Kolmar Labs

Learn more and register at Summit.CosmeticsandToiletries.com CT_Summit_2015_ExploreFuture_FullPage.indd 1

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Starting

n by JEFF FALK

Point

JEFF FALK

Editor in Chief

GCI MAGAZINE Editorial Advisory BOARD Alisa Marie Beyer

Coastal Salt & Soul

MARIE ALICE DIBON

Alice Communications, Inc.

Ada Polla

Alchimie Forever, The Polla Beauty Group

Art Rich, phD

A. Rich Development

Rick Ruffolo

R4 Innovations

Cristina Samuels

Mode Cosmetics

Laura Setzfand Epiphany

Like a Record That’s Skipping

he Onion recently published the headline “Consumer Entering That Awkward Age Between Target Demographics.” It’s not the first time I’ve referenced the satirical publication, and as I previously noted, satire works when it is built on recognizable truths and realities. This bit of satire touches on the realities that brand messaging needs to be deliberate, clear and targeted and that the target is in constant motion—with the latter sometimes rendering all that work on the messaging ineffective, notably when specific to an age demographic. As life happens, things change, and consumers age both into and out of age demographics. “Acknowledging that he has reached a stage in his life when he doesn’t quite seem to fit in anywhere, marketing experts confirmed Monday that local consumer Keith Eberhardt, 34, is entering that awkward period of transition between target demographics,” offered The Onion. Messaging has to evolve, and brands themselves must be in a constant state of evolution— good, strong brands are living, breathing things. They’re built on a core, the brand DNA, but they have to connect on new terms as time goes on to remain viable to consumers. It’s not enough to have strong products—there have been plenty of viable products in terms of performance that simply die. Listening to Trendera’s Jane Birmingham at the 2014 PBA Executive Summit as she navigated the audience through the differences and similarities between baby boomers, generation X, millennials (which she refers to as “generation Y”) and generation “V” (3–18 year olds) and the marketing strategies appropriate for each group, it was clear that age is only one of the parameters to consider when messaging—and maybe not the first parameter that should be considered. It’s the wider context of consumers’ lives and the factors that shape how they see and interact with the world that play a larger, more lasting impact. Age is only partly in play here. Generation V, as Birmingham noted, takes the view that if something doesn’t go viral, it doesn’t matter. They don’t have to find something, because if it is important, it’ll find them. That’s not a factor of age, that’s largely an outcome of social media—which is an outcome of developments in device technology—and marketers now leverage that. This generation has this outlook because that’s the outlook it’s been conditioned to have, in a sense. And that’s just a basic example. I’m not sure any of this makes marketing any easier, but I do think it makes understanding the challenges of marketing clearer—and that’s an important step. This issue explores some of the challenges. Lisa Doyle takes a look at what to keep in mind when designing packaging for each generation of consumer, beginning on Page 22, and the men’s market and marketing to men (a demographic that has proven to be a special challenge for the beauty industry) is discussed throughout this issue. And I think it’s important to also look past differences in consumer groups and the segmenting we do and see the commonalities—take in the view from 30,000 feet. “People are people—regardless of the generation,” offered Birmingham as she wrapped up her presentation. “Passion is important to all generations. It is the passionate products that win.” n GCI

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U.S. PRESTIGE BEAUTY GROWS, CONSUMERS LOOK FOR EXPERIENCE The NPD Group presented the beauty industry’s first look at 2014 global year-end results for makeup, fragrance, and skin care at their 18th annual “Hot Off The Press” event at the Union League Club in New York on January 29, 2015. CEW partnered to host the event for the third consecutive year. At the event, NPD shared that the U.S. prestige beauty* industry reached $11.2 billion and grew 3% in dollar sales in 2014, compared to 2013. Makeup experienced the healthiest gain, 6%, while fragrance dollars grew 2% and skin care increased by 1%. “The beauty industry had a solid annual performance in a somewhat difficult retail environment, but there’s still plenty of room for improvement and development,” said Karen Grant, global beauty industry analyst, The NPD Group. “We saw that fewer consumers, especially beauty shoppers, cut spending in 2014. “At the same time, 2014 reported the fewest number shopping for beauty in six years. This tells me that beauty shoppers are happy, but some may be seeking happiness elsewhere. This ‘elsewhere’ is in other products and services, as well as experiences; consumers today are not just pursuing ‘products for me,’ so much as they are seeking ‘experiences for us.’ The challenge for the beauty industry, therefore, doesn’t lie solely in the products, but in fulfilling this sense of experience, and having both play together in harmony.” The prestige market outpaced the U.S. mass** channel, where sales remained flat for total beauty in 2014, versus 2013, as per Nielsen. The skin care category, with 2% growth, buoyed the overall market, while fragrance and makeup experienced dollar declines, by 4% and 1%, respectively. “Beauty today is all about the base,” said Grant. “Understanding how the consumer base has changed in population and lifestyle. Each category reflects this dynamic. Before consumers apply their makeup, they want a soft, unblemished, anti-aging face. They want to feel confident about their ‘I woke up like this’ look, and are being proactive rather than reactive about their beauty choices. There continues to be growing popularity in products that are more organic and offer advanced benefits, from natural, clinical and alternative brands to artisanal scents. While consumers look at craftsmanship and point of difference, they continue to seek instant gratification, from facial masks and bronzers that offer radiance, to bold lips and a mood-boosting scent.” Prestige makeup, skin care, and fragrance in the U.S. all experienced 2 to 4% growth in average price. The lip segment was key to makeup’s growth, driven by lip color. Of the top 100 new shades on counter in 2014, pink surpassed red as the leading color, bringing in 23% more dollars. Sets and kits drove the growth for skin care, with anti-aging sets serving as the catalyst. Fine fragrance experienced the largest increase for women’s fragrance, while it was fragrance gift sets posting the largest growth for men. “Beauty is an industry where consumers are willing to spend, and where the majority of them—more than 80% of U.S. women alone—invest,” added Grant. “While there is brand loyalty, consumers at the same time are always on the hunt for products that will perform better, and are willing to add to their routine if a product proves worthwhile. The industry is at an advantage in the U.S.—at a crossroads, where world beauty comes together in one place, and the innovation and types of products that connect with consumers and satisfy their needs and desires show themselves in a natural light.” www.GCImagazine.com

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More and More, Beauty Synonymous With Wellness Wellness has become a synonym of beauty. As previously reported by Diagonal Reports, consumers believe that skin appearance can be dramatically improved by things such as reducing stress or increasing energy. The cosmetic is no longer the reference point. Beauty consumers have enthusiastically embraced wellness, and wellness is the prism through which people now understand beauty. This can be seen in the appropriation of wellness terms by beauty marketers— words such as ‘energy’ and ‘de-stressing’ resonate with consumers. So frequently is the word ‘beauty’ omitted from these discussions, that it is has become conspicuous by its absence. Beauty (especially skin care) can now be discussed, delivered and bought without the actual word beauty itself ever being mentioned. There is no contradiction or confusion in the minds of consumers who believe that wellness delivers beautiful (e.g., clearer, younger looking) skin just as or more effectively than cosmetic products. Wellness as beauty is a bottom up development that is, and has been, 100% driven by changes in consumer behavior and regimes. Up till relatively recently, it was the regime of certain consumer segments the most developed markets that defined beauty. But now beauty experts in Europe, the U.S. and beyond report that consumers take a very holistic approach to beauty. Beauty regimes can now be defined by wellness rather than the relatively narrow cosmetic. Wellness as beauty was pioneered by innovative beauty spas/ salons in cities like London, New York and Los Angeles, which were in tune with changing consumer needs. The online and social media democratized this trend, popularizing the wellness discourse with beauty consumers around the globe. Diagonal research shows that consumers in less developed markets are as likely to look to wellness as cosmetic for their beauty needs. These millions of new consumers, who are critical to the future of the beauty industry, come with different skin and hair care traditions and rituals. A striking example is China, one of the largest skin care markets, where acupuncture—which epitomizes wellness there—is widely used for beauty. Consumers are voting with their feet, and it is up to brand owners to adapt their products to meet the demands of beauty as wellness. Diagonal research shows that it has been ‘new’ entrants, which redefined beauty as wellness, that have benefited. The legacy companies, which were so heavily invested in the cosmetic concept that they owned, have been much slower to appreciate the implications of and react to changes in consumer behavior.

Confidence of Affluent Consumers Dips In Unity Marketing’s latest survey of affluent consumer confidence, the Luxury Consumption Index (LCI) took a 12.3 point dive to 46.4 points*—its lowest level since Q4 2008–Q1 2009. With a drop in affluents’ mood, they are not likely to spend extravagantly during the 2014 holiday season. Pam Danziger, president of Unity Marketing and lead researcher in the Affluent Consumer Tracking Study, (ACTS) explains, “All five key questions that go into the calculation of the LCI tanked in the latest survey. This sets up a bleak Christmas shopping season, since the affluent represent only 20% of U.S. households (24.5 million out of total 122.5 million), but account for more than 40% of all consumer spending.” Unity Marketing’s ACTS survey measured affluent consumer confidence in the fourth quarter, as well as their shopping behavior across 24 different types of shopping environments, including: • General merchandise stores such as Macy’s, JC Penney’s, Target, Costco, Saks 5th Avenue, Bloomingdales; • Luxury boutiques such as Ralph Lauren, Louis Vuitton, Coach, Prada, Chanel; • Fashion & Clothing stores such as Ann Taylor, Banana Republic, JCrew, Anthropologie; • Jewelry stores; • Home stores such as Bed Bath & Beyond, Restoration Hardware, Crate & Barrel, IKEA, Ethan Allen; • Beauty stores such as Art of Shaving, Sephora, Ulta; • Other specialty stores (art galleries, book stores, craft stores, etc.); • Online and direct-to-consumer retailers. “In keeping with affluents’ mood, their spending as measured in the Shopper Track survey declined by 10% this quarter,” said Danziger. “While some categories posted growth in spend, particularly luxury travel and investment in major household appliances, many other categories of spending were off. The affluent’s lack of confidence in the overall direction of the country is a critical factor in the LCI.” Tom Bodenberg, Unity Marketing’s economist, explained affluent consumers’ sentiment that went into the LCI calculations, “Affluent consumers are sitting on the sidelines instead of getting in on the action.” Bodenberg notes that despite recent gains in the residential real-estate marketplace and stabilization in workforce participation, the affluent still feel uncertainty on the economic front. *The survey was conducted from October 9-15, 2014 among n=1,330 affluents, starting with HHI $100,000 and above. The demographics of the survey sample was average income of the survey sample was $259,000 and average age 47.9 years.

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Market for Personalized Skin Care Personal skin care made in the lab to perfectly match each individual customer is predicted to become a big trend in skin care. In a new survey, Canadean investigates the market potential of personal skin care in the U.K. Currently, Canadean values the global market for personalized skin care to be worth $12.2 billion. Many skin care brands have already responded by offering their consumers in-store skin consultancies to detect their skin type and match them with the right product. Now, the first movers in skin care are taking personalization to a new level when they offer a more scientific approach towards skin care with laboratory tests and individually labeled products. U.K. consumers are ready for the laboratory approach to skin care, reports Canadean, and its new survey finds that many consumers are prepared to go far to find their personal skin cream match. In fact, 45% of U.K. adults say that they are interested in the laboratory approach to personal skin care, and many of these say that they are prepared to go to a specialized laboratory and would even prefer this compared to getting their personal product from other channels such as department stores or filling out online questionnaires. Of those interested in personalized care products, 54% say they are ready to provide blood, skin and hair samples to be tested in a laboratory, 51% would be interested in giving a DNA swab samples, and 52% would like to go to a medical dermatologist consultation.

Data Consumer

Explores Male Groomer Demographics

Potential for Beauty Industry

Preparing skin care products according to individual recipes takes time, and consumers will most likely have to wait to get their products made. According to the survey, consumers are prepared to wait for up to a month to receive their product, and 59% of consumers are also prepared to pay a premium for such products, indicating a great potential for the beauty industry. “Over 22 % of skin care consumption by volume globally is driven by individualism,” says Veronika Zhupanova, analyst at Canadean. “And with the development of new technologies, manufacturers have opportunities to take it to a whole new level. Factors such as allergies, genetic predisposal, nutrition, climate and exposure to the sun are all individual needs perfect for tailoring.”

How Does It Work in Practice?

When we are talking about personalization in skin care, there are two ways, Zhupanova explains: “Companies such as Dermalogica, Clinique and Nivea have a set of products and then guide their customers on which one will suit them best. However, I think that we will see more brands taking this trend even further with more niche products made one-to-one in a lab where the cost and waiting time is higher.” In Russia, I.C. Lab offers consumers individually-made skin care products, produced with personal skin characteristics in mind. The customers are invited to the laboratory, where their skin is tested, and, in a few weeks, they can collect the product made specifically for them that satisfys the needs of their skin and features their surname on the package. At the moment, the brand is presented in Russia and the Ukraine. The cream is set at a premium price of 3000 RUB for 15ml eye-cream. The trend is also picking up slowly in the U.K.. In July, German brand Nivea, the U.K.’s fastest growing skin care brand, launched its ‘Face Facts Boutique’ for the new Cellular Anti-Age range. A rolling booth was set up in a number of U.K. shopping centers to provide skin consultations using a new skin technology to analyze the customers’ skin, advise on the best skin care routine and answer any skin-aging questions.

2015

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Consumer Trends for 2015 According to Euromonitor International in its newly released Top 10 Global Consumer Trends for 2015 report, consumption in 2015 is increasingly being driven by the heart: consumers are making choices defined by their positive impact on the world and community through cause-linked buying, the thriving “sharing economy” or the “can-do” attitude that millennials have in common. Malls are reinventing themselves as community hubs rather than the commercial antithesis of it. Health, tracked digitally, is often benchmarked against the progress of significant others, and rising, chatty vlogger stars are appealing to millions through their relatable stories. Individualism prevails in the heightened consumer desire to safeguard privacy, and still this conversation is shared and debated. Consumers are also favoring greater convenience, for which they are increasingly prepared to pay. Brands cater to the trend through sharper online and offline shopping combinations and neighborhood buying options. More broadly, the blending of online and “real world” lifestyles is moving into a new, more unified phase. Breakdown of the Top 10 Global Trends for 2015 1.

Buying Convenience In pursuit of quality time Top-up shopping a rising star More omnichannel solutions for time-poor consumers 24/7 culture and convenience Catering to the “trapped” consumer

Consumption as a Route to Progress Green it! Female empowerment as consumer driver What design signals

Influencers: More Like Us “A-listers” as lifestyle mentors Vloggers You, the consumer, are an influencer

Let’s Share: The Rise and Rise of Lightweight Living Share today Sharing buying tips Consumer freedom and uncertainty in the sharing economy

Privacy Matters Is privacy a luxury? Convenience versus privacy The Achilles’ heel of smart devices More brands promoting themselves as privacy-friendly

8. Shopping the World Bringing the world to you Local consumers are turning to overseas retailers in search of better value and choice Shopping tourism Building and retaining a client base via social media 9.

Virtual to Real and Back Shopping in harmony Online immediacy and the real world A closer online / offline world Innovative digitally-themed products in the real world Beware over-convergence

10. Wired and Well: Connected Health Mobile fitness monitoring Making headspace Cyberchondria Connected health campaigning

So *P **

The recently launched “Snapshot: Beauty Trends to Watch in 2015” report outlines six key trends that Datamonitor Consumer expects to gain traction in 2015. These trends emerged in 2014, and are likely to impact the beauty industry by influencing future innovations and represent high potential avenues for brands to explore. The trends are not listed below in order of preference or magnitude, but are simply numbered in the order that they appear in this presentation. 1. “Smarter” skin care: Predictive skin care devices that incorporate skin diagnostics to preempt skin conditions and promote long-term skin health and appearance. 2. Photo-ready cosmetics: Cosmetics designed to improve appearance for photo occasions and selfies. 3. “Hair-ceuticals” and beyond: More granular beauty “cures” for a wider range of concerns in new categories.

5. Malls and Shopping Centers in Community Mode A community and experiential focus Smaller, more central shopping centers appeal to consumers Emerging market shoppers are enjoying malls for their international allure

4. Perfumes plus: Multifunctional fragrances that feature beauty benefits such as for the skin (anti-aging, primer, illumination).

6. Millennials My life, my privacy Socially-conscious and less brand-loyal consumers Generation pause Millennials at work Listening to vloggers

6. DNA customization: Tailoring products using individual DNA samples and analysis to create completely customized beauty solutions.

5. Bi-directional beauty: Combining nutricosmetics with cosmeceuticals to create complete inside and out solutions.

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Color Shift from Nails to Eyes and Lips Growth in U.S. prestige makeup is shifting from nails to eyes and lips, according to The NPD Group. “The shift in where women focus their color needs and desires is a natural one, and it will no doubt change again,” said Karen Grant, global beauty industry analyst, The NPD Group. “Color is key when it comes to makeup. It’s the area where consumers play with fashion and are willing to experiment, as they seek ways to make bold statements and refresh their look.” Eyebrow makeup and eye shadow are two areas that saw the most growth within eye makeup in the 12 months ending November 2014, at 34% and 9%, respectively. In addition, lip color (13%) drove growth in lip makeup. In contrast, color enamel prompted the nail segment’s dollar decline, with a 10% drop in sales. “Consumers are paying attention to the marketing focus around eye and lip color and responding to multi-color pallets that have become more prevalent, but that is just part of the dynamic at play,” added Grant. “Marketers and consumers are seeing that makeup and color are affordable ways to try what’s new and in vogue. Much of the power lies in speed of response and putting that in the hands of trendsetters as well as the early adopters. This responsiveness to the consumer environment will continue to shape the future of color in beauty.” Source: The NPD Group, Inc./BeautyTrends report *Prestige Beauty: Products sold mainly in U.S. Department Stores **Source: Nielsen, Food/Drug/Mass (516) 625 2203

Majority of Men Plan Fragrance Purchases Ahead of Time Nearly 80% of men who make fragrance purchases plan to do so ahead of time, and twothirds of them also know what brand they plan to purchase, according to the 2014 Men’s FragranceTrack Report issued by global information company The NPD Group, Inc. Men pay close attention to their fragrance usage, especially when they need to restock their scent of choice; six in 10 men’s purchases are for replenishment reasons. The need to replenish, in-store influencers and price are the top motivators behind men’s fine fragrance purchases. While most men report their fragrance usage is the same as a year ago, some men did increase consumption. Reasons for doing so include finding a better liked fragrance, a new grooming routine and the fragrance being liked by a partner. “Men have clearly demonstrated their interest in using and experiencing fragrance, and the fact that they pay attention to when their supplies are running low is very telling,” said Karen Grant, vice president and global beauty industry analyst, The NPD Group, Inc. “However, as much as brand loyalty is important, experimenting and stepping outside of the box is also crucial for industry growth.” Almost all men report fragrance usage, with eight out of 10 men using some type of scented product, and nearly all of fine fragrance users also using scented body products. The most desired characteristic for scented body products is a subtle, light scent, followed by a good value. More than 50% of male consumers purchase a large-sized fine fragrance because it offers the best value. These incentives are also similar among men who use both scented products and a fine fragrance. “Men are an influential and critical part of the fragrance industry. Younger men are a prime example of the well-rounded fragrance user, since they are the group most willing to experiment with different fragrances,” said Grant. “It’s important for retailers to learn from this, and find ways to not only attract new users but to also build upon their current following—further peaking consumer’s interest and encouraging them to find their specific scents for every mood, season and occasion.”

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“

When there’s a true new innovation, that’s when we see a spike in sales. [Products] such as devices add dollars to a category and don’t divert dollars—[that is] devices, though a category unto itself, adds dollars/ value to the overall skin care category.

”

Carrie Mellage, Vice President, Consumer Products, Kline & Company, as presented at the 2014 PBA Executive Summit.

Women Want Youthful Face More Than Youthful Body Women desire a youthful looking face more than a youthful looking body, according to the results of a national survey conducted by Wakefield Research on behalf of Allergan Inc. The study found that nearly 60% of women surveyed (ages 21-65 (n=500)) say they’d rather have a more youthful looking face. The Wakefield Research Volume Loss Survey 2014 was conducted to promote Allergan’s Juvederm Voluma XC, a hyaluronic acid injectable filler; however, it also has implications in topical skin care for face and body. Of the respondents, 64% noted that the shape of their face has changed as they have aged, and 44% have noticed a decrease in cheek volume or fullness in the past 10 years. Of women surveyed, 44% believe that if they lose volume in their cheek area, there is nothing they can do to correct it.

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Move Toward Truly Natural Products Strengthening Natural Personal Care Market According to Kline & Company’s upcoming Natural Personal Care Global Series report, though products formulated with a high proportion of synthetic ingredients dominate the global natural personal care market (accounting for nearly 75% of the total market share in 2014), truly natural positioning is gaining importance with consumers and retailers. Following this trend, brand owners have increasingly been reformulating with a higher proportion of truly natural ingredients in their products. The popularity of natural-inspired products is higher in less mature markets, such as Brazil and some Asia-Pacific countries, where disposable income and consumer awareness regarding product ingredients are low and where distinguishing between natural-inspired and truly natural cosmetics is not as important when making a purchase. In mature markets such as the United States and Europe, a growing number of consumers are purchasing products containing predominantly natural ingredients. While products that are only natural-inspired continued to prevail in the United States and Europe in 2014, Kline’s ratings system (which analyzes brands’ naturalness on a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being completely natural) uncovered shifts in the natural positioning in several U.S. and European brands—including Avalon Organics, Jason, Annemarie Borlind and Melvita all receiving higher ratings in 2014 when compared to prior years. “These reformulations are the next natural step for companies aiming to establish strong natural concepts, with high importance given to the trust between the brand and the consumers,” says Agnieszka Saintemarie, project manager, consumer products at Kline & Company. “Moving upward in the natural ratings is a great way for natural brands to gain acceptance from a larger consumer base in the mid to long term.” Consumers are willing to invest in these often pricey truly natural products if they deliver effective results. Therefore, brand owners are increasingly focusing on product efficacy. To cater to consumers’ desire to be able to easily select the right product, some brand owners are becoming more transparent in their communication about the quality level of ingredients, certification and the company’s values. And sales data backs this up. Sales of the global natural personal care market increased by nearly 10% in 2014. All regions continued to surpass the overall beauty market’s growth during 2014. Brazil and Asia-Pacific remained the fastest growing regions during 2014, with both expanding at double-digit rates. However, growth in China is restricted due to formulation challenges, as well as animal-testing methods. Several Western brands (notably Weleda, Lavera and Pangea) have withdrawn from the Chinese market in response. Growing consumer awareness of synthetic chemicals in cosmetics and toiletries and the desire for truly natural products will continue to propel the global natural personal care industry. This segment’s growth is projected at a CAGR of slightly less than 10% through 2019.

Anti-aging Skin Care Not Resonating With Older Consumers According to a Canadean survey of 2,000 U.K.-based adults, 20% of U.K. consumers are concerned about skin aging, but only one-third of those who are worried have adopted a regular anti-aging skin care routine. This indicates that marketers are failing to connect with a majority of consumers who are most interested in their products. In the survey, 33% of consumers admit that they are worried about aging, with respondents across all age groups aged 25 and over expressing similar levels of concern. Moreover, 20% say that they are concerned about their skin showing signs of aging, such as fine lines and age spots. However, less than a third of those who are worried about skin aging have adopted a regular anti-aging skin care routine. “There seems to be a gap between attitude and behaviour, as consumers are interested in counteracting aging but they do not adopt anti-aging skin care routines,” said Veronika Zhupanova, analyst at Canadean. “Reasons for this behaviour could be price, product availability or consumers simply not knowing what products to use or how often.” Across all age groups who are worried about aging skin, consumers aged 55 and over, constituting 28.7% of the U.K. population, are the least likely to act on it. Over half (56%) of concerned 55+ consumers have not done anything about their concerns—the highest number among all age demographics. The research suggests that by focusing too much on young adult women, the skin care industry might miss out on 55+ consumers. Zhupanova adds: “[Brand owners] don’t get their messaging right when they talk to older consumers. This group is comfortable with their age, they don’t feel old and they don’t want to be treated as desperately clinging to youth. To achieve success among those aged 55 and older, skin care producers need to offer them inclusive products that promote good-looking, well-groomed skin as well as attractiveness, as opposed to treating their age as a burden that needs a relief.”

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2015

U.S. Prestige Lip Color Sales Grow by Double-Digits Prestige lip color sales in the U.S. experienced a significant 24% increase in dollar sales in November 2014, according to The NPD Group, Inc. “The trend of women seeking to make a bold makeup statement continues as marketers showcase lips more prominently than seen in prior years,” said Karen Grant, vice president and global beauty industry analyst, The NPD Group, Inc. “A red lip is both ‘on trend’ and classic at the same time. For the holiday celebrations, it is not only bold but also fun, festive and can’t be missed.” With total lip makeup sales being up for the 12 months ending November 2014, growth in lip makeup is not limited to lip color or a single month. Lip products are among the primary drivers of total prestige makeup growth, which is the overall prestige beauty leader. The use of lip color has risen with younger women, in particular, and the appeal is based on both fashion and function. Sales gains in this category are driven primarily by increases in unit sales, as the average price spent on lip color has remained relatively flat over the past year, pointing back to spending behavior of a younger consumer. In November 2014 alone, almost 1.8 million prestige lip color products were sold in the U.S., a 22% increase over November 2013. According to NPD’s 2014 Makeup In-Depth Consumer Report, lip color is currently the preferred lip product among consumers, and 33% of women use it more than once a day. “Lip color can totally transform a woman’s look, and even affect their mood; that’s a lot of benefit for something that costs around $20,” added Grant. “The value proposition of lip color is very emotional, as well as practical, even for women on a budget. Messaging that taps into the consumers’ desires can capture them, regardless of the season.”

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new products, promotions and events

BRAND NEWS

Eye Shades

Make-Up Designory (MUD) introduced eight new eye colors, each with inspiration for some of the upcoming trends for Spring 2015. The new colors include: Canvas, a matte, off white shade; Deco, a matte turquoise; Sedona, a matte, soft burnt orange; Semisweet, a matte, neutral dark brown; Statue, a soft matte, light gray; Pavement, a matte dark gray, Flight, a cool, matte medium powder blue; and Velvetine, a warm, demi-matte eggplant. Available at www.mudshop.com.

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Actress Eva Green has been named the new international spokesperson for L’Oréal Professionnel.

Make-Up Designory (MUD)

Kelsey Deenihan is joining Avon’s Mark brand as its new celebrity makeup artist. Alikay Naturals is now being sold at Sally Beauty Supply. IMAN Cosmetics held Femme Fatale Fete! in New York City to recognize bloggers’ power and influence. After several years in a nearby Sherman Oaks location, Sinful Lashes has opened a 2,000 ft2 flagship Sinful Lashes Luxury Lash Bar in Studio City, Calif., USA. Mary Kay reported double digit growth in global sales in 2014. This growth occurred after the company posted a record-breaking year in 2013, the company’s 50th anniversary.

Brow Sculpting

L’Oréal added a brow-defining product to its Maybelline New York brand. Eye Studio Brow Drama Sculpting Brow Mascara is a tinted gel mousse that coats brows with color, sweeping them into a natural and even colored finish without clumps. The formulation, which is available in Blonde, Soft Brown and Deep Brown shades, is applied using the company’s sculpting ball brush, which allows for precise application for the perfect contour. Available at mass market retailers nationwide. www.maybelline.com

Lisa Eldridge has joined Maison Lancome as the new makeup creative director

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James S. Scully to executive vice president and chief financial officer of Avon Products Inc. He will report to CEO Sheri McCoy and lead all finance and information technology functions. Lars Junglarsen to president of global sales, Dee Dee Parks to senior VP of sales, Hourglass Cosmetics. Sherri Jessee to global creative advisor, Pravana.

Coconut Milk Moisture

Honey Skin Treatment

Manuka Health

New Zealand-based Manuka Health has introduced a duo of targeted skin treatments for troubled skin to the U.S. market that center around the company’s star ingredient—manuka honey. This honey is manufactured by bees that pollinate in the country’s native Manuka bush, which has antibacterial, antifungal and antioxidant properties. The honey is said to assist wound-healing, nourish the skin, support cell growth and fight the visible signs of aging. Both products in the ManukaClear line—the ManukaClear Mask and the ManukaClear Intensive BB Gel—are formulated with two of the company’s manuka honey ingredients: MGO 600+ Manuka Honey and MGO 400+ Manuka Honey with CycloPower. www.manukahealth.co.nz

Tracey Sameyah to chief executive officer, Lancer Skincare LLC, reporting directly to founder Harold A. Lancer, MD. Mike Larrain to CEO, PCA Skin.

Kiss My Face

Kiss My Face focused on the hydrating benefits of coconut milk for its new soap launch. Pure Coconut Milk Bar Soaps are formulated with 86% pure coconut, including coconut milk and coconut oil, which are known for their moisturizing properties. The soap is available as Pure Coconut Milk Soap or with lime peel, to also offer natural exfoliation. Available at Amazon.com, Whole Foods and supermarkets nationwide. www.kissmyface.com

Coconut for curls

Essential

Pureology created its first line of hair care products devoted to treating stressed color-treated waves and curls. Curl Complete contains coconut oil and the company’s AntiFade Complex to revive curly and wavy hair’s original curves while helping control frizz, reduce breakage and enhance shine for 72 hours. The system includes a shampoo, conditioner, taming butter, mask, a styling spray gel and a primer/refresher. The Moisture Melt Masque provides deep conditioning to enhance curl definition and add bounce. www.pureology.com

Pureology

street level

Eversharp Eyeliner

Styli-Style added a self-sharpening eyeliner to its color cosmetics offering. Twist & Sharp releases a new liner tip every time the cap is twisted. It has a semi-matte finish that glides on smoothly for all day wear and provides a rich color payoff. It is available in four shades: black, taupe, charcoal and midnight. Aside from the self-sharpening capability, the Twist & Sharp barrel allows the user to control how much product is released by pumping the base of the component to release more. www.styli-style.com

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Ceramide Skin Renewal

Dermelect incorporated a hydrolyzed keratin in its new nail and cuticle product to moisturize and soften the cuticles while strengthening the nail bed. The keratin is formulated into one of Revital-Oil Nail & Cuticle Treatment’s two phases, the other being an essential oil blend to moisturize the nail and cuticle. The keratin also serves an antioxidant protection role in the formulation, which claims to restore ragged cuticles, condition the nail bed and allow nails to grow long and strong. www.dermelect.com

Aviva

Women’s Hair loss

Johnson & Johnson added a 5% minoxidil treatment to its Rogaine line for women with thinning hair or hereditary hair loss. Women’s Rogaine 5% Minoxidil Topical Aerosol is the first and only US Food and Drug Administration (FDA)-approved, once-daily use treatment for female pattern hair loss containing 5% minoxidil in a foam formula. Minoxidil is the only FDA-approved topical ingredient to help regrow hair. The treatment penetrates the scalp, reactivates hair follicles and stimulates hair regrowth. www.rogaine.com

Dermelect

Keratin Nail Treatment

Aviva has added a hair care line to its offering that is designed to strengthen, nourish, grow and protect hair. The Hair Care System—which includes Hydracreme Shampoo, Hydracreme Conditioner, Keratin Renewal Anti-frizz Serum and Hair Rescue Keratin Renewal Masque—contains nourishing botanical extracts, strengthening amino acids and restoring aloe leaf juice. The Hair Rescue Keratin Renewal Masque contains keratin to repair hair damage and promote elasticity. The masque also protects hair from the drying effects of UV rays. It smoothes hair and is suitable for all hair types. www.avivahair.com

Johnson & Johnson

Keratin Hair Repair

Valeant Pharmaceuticals North America LLC

In response to requests from consumers and dermatologists, Valeant Pharmaceuticals North America LLC added four new products to its CeraVe Skincare brand: Skin Renewing Cream Serum, Skin Renewing Night Cream, Renewing SA Cleanser and Hydrating Cleanser Bar. The Skin Renewing Cream Serum is formulated with essential ceramides, hyaluronic acid, and niacinamide to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles while also helping to repair and restore the skin barrier, for brighter, smoother skin that looks healthy and radiant. It contains an encapsulated 1% retinol and ceramide complex, which stabilizes and delivers the retinol into the skin gradually over time, so it won’t cause harsh irritation like many retinols. Available at Walgreens, CVS, Walmart and Target. www.cerave.com

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Decléor unveiled a 30-day night treatment for an energized, recharged, renewed complexion. Touted as “detox-in-a-box,” Night Essence is a 100% natural oil formulated with a high concentration of essential and plant oils such as manuka essential oil, Mediterranean cistus essential oil and tropical amaranth oil. The product is one treatment with three applications steps—aromapressure, amoradrainage and aromassage (each with 10 days)—designed by the company’s aroma experts to provide a “new skin” effect. The oil imparts a dry, silky feeling without a greasy feel. www.decleor.com

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Decléor

Pureology

Essential Oil Detox

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FRAGRANCE FOCUS

News about the Fragrance industry

Upperclass Smell

The new Downton Abbey fine fragrance collection include sensual and sophisticated perfumes designed to embody the personality and style of the central female characters of the show. According to the press materials, the fragrances are crafted in the artisanal method utilized by the master perfumers so highly in demand during the early 1900’s time period during which the show is set, allowing the fragrances to be very close approximations of the luxurious and complex perfumes which the high society ladies of that era actually wore. The 8 mL scents of the fragrances have been crafted from pure and undiluted perfume oils, without alcohol, chemicals, additives, artificial colors, parabens or phthalates. www.downtonabbeyfragrances.com

NEWS Eurofragance’s Turkey subsidiary, Eurofragance Essans, relocated its offices to the center of Istanbul in order to boost its position in the rapidly growing local market and commercial hub. CPL Aromas relocated to a new facility in Scotch Plains, NJ. The facility will become the home of CPL USA, and will spearhead the sales and marketing effort for CPL in North America. Fragrance division sales were CHF 2,108 million, an increase of 3.6% on a like-for-like basis. Fine fragrances sales grew 2.5%. Givaudan’s 2014 full-year net income jumped 14.9% from 2013. Inter Parfums, Inc. announced that for the three months ended December 31, 2014, net sales increased 18.6% to $125.1 million. Sales for its Montblanc, Lanvin and Jimmy Choo brands were up 14.0%, 23.9% and 49.6%, respectively.

Downton Abbey

Fragrance supplier Seven Scent collaborated with English symphony orchestra, the Hallé, on “Hallé in the Sun” combines music and fragrance to create a multi-sensory performance for school children from 7 to 11 years old. Formulated to enhance specific pieces of music ranging from classical to contemporary, Seven’s perfumers created scents to be presented on scratch and sniff cards; each fragrance is released by the audience as the musical program evolves.

bRIT rHYTHM

Burberry

Burberry introduced new fragrances for men and women to the Brit Rhythm product family. Burberry Brit Rhythm—Eau de Toilette Intense For Men and Burberry Brit Rhythm—Floral Eau de Toilette For Women are inspired by music and feature British musician George Barnett and model and actress Suki Waterhouse as the faces to the marketing campaign. The men’s fragrance is a sensual scent with a masculine smokey and leathery accord. Spicy top notes of artemisia, cumin seed and pepper oil fuse with a heart of cashmeran, guaiac wood and Tonka bean blend. The women’s fragrance was created to combine “powerful femininity with a rock and roll edge” in a powdery floral fragrance. The sensual floral offers a fruity twist, featuring top notes of orchard fruit, Sicilian lemon and orange that open up to an intoxicating heart of Egyptian jasmine, lotus and musk, which provide a sultry dry down. Available as a 50 mL and 90 mL eau de toilette, both are presented in the classic rectangular Brit Rhythm bottle, which feature contrasting studded and smooth textures—the men’s is housed in a smoked glass bottle with silver inner lacquering, and the outer packaging features a light grey metallic finish. The women’s is bottled in a soft pink glass flacon with a soft pink metallic outer packaging.

• A heady mix of salt, brine and seaweed accompanies Britten’s tempestuous “Storm.” • Orange blossom drifting on warm Spanish sunshine intermingles with “Carmen’s Suite” by Bizet. • Cool, crisp, pine trees are the backdrop for a sleigh ride through the forest during “Nightride and Sunrise” by Sibelius. • A magical carpet of bluebells and woodland foliage unfolds in Stravinsky’s “The Firebird.”

PEOPLE CPL Aromas announced the appointments of Nick Pickthall to group COO and Wendy Pickthall to vice president of sales, CPL USA. Ungerer & Co. announced the appointments of Russell Moody to senior sales consultant, Michelle Suffy to senior account executive, John Forte to senior account executive, Lauren Maloney to account executive, Tony Valinotti to vice president fragrance sales, Madeleine Bliss to creative marketing manager, Heba Radwan to marketing and consumer insights.

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CONSUMER GOODS

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By Beth CoChran

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Uncovering why you do what you do will help you determine your vision and create a solid foundation to build and market your business.

The marketing sweet spot is where your expertise and passion intersects with your consumer’s wants, interests and desires.

n his now-famous TED Talk, author Simon Sinek became known for his simple, yet powerful model that leaders and business owners around the globe now use: “Start with why.” Uncovering why you do what you do will help you determine your vision and create a solid foundation to build and market your business.

Setting the Foundation What inspired you in the first place? Leaders who tap into the passion behind why they created their business are more influential, command greater loyalty and are more profitable than others. Determining your “why” also will help you create your company’s vision. This vision will become your guide, impacting everything from your brand image to your social media marketing.

Not to be confused with business goals, a vision is a clear, laser-focused picture of what you want to do, where you want to be and why. There are a several questions you can ask yourself to determine your vision statement. 1. Why did I start my business? And what was the motivating factor, aside from making money? 2. Who do I want to serve? Why? 3. What type of resource do I want to be for my consumers? 4. Where do I want the business to eventually land? 5. What three-to-five values are essential to my brand? With these answers on hand, describe your business as you envision it. This may be different from its current state. Now, distill everything into one sentence. Does this statement motivate you? Is it something

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you can easily tell to others and get them excited about it? Take Disney’s vision: “To make people happy; or Ikea’s: “To create a better everyday life for the many people.” These vision statements shape the company’s marketing efforts and their communication in social networks.

Find Your Marketing Sweet Spot How can your vision inspire marketing efforts that compel potential consumers to take action? The marketing sweet spot is where your expertise and passion intersects with your consumer’s wants, interests and desires. Say for example that your ideal consumer is Carrie from Sex in the City. We know Carrie is a trendy writer who likes couture fashion—appearance is important to

her. She also is a smoker, spends a lot of time with her girlfriends, lives in a major metropolitan area and walks a lot—in heels. Based on this information, you can bet she may be interested in information about foot care and pedicures, a blog post about attaining glamorous skin before a night on the town, or perhaps a downloadable guide with quick tips for city dwellers on how to refresh skin. A series of magazine-quality images of trending makeup looks paired with couture fashions also might grab her attention. Knowing this level of detail about consumers can help identify types of marketing that will encourage her to purchase or inspire her to share it with her friends. Keeping in mind your vision, talk to current and prospective consumers about what their top skin concerns are, what solutions they are looking for, what media or social networks they most use, their passions, and how they spend their time.

You might also peruse relevant forums to see what your target audience is discussing and which questions they’re asking.

Setting Brand Standards To communicate your vision, be intentional about your brand image. Decide on color scheme, fonts, imagery and messaging style, and use them without exception on all online and printed marketing materials to create a cohesive brand identity. There should be no question as to the look or feel of communication with consumers and prospects. Setting a solid foundation based on your “why” will get your marketing started on the right foot with new consumers and help you build stronger customer loyalty. n GCI

Beth Cochran is the founder of Wired PR, a public relations and content marketing firm, and www.successlabr. com, an online source for entrepreneurs to achieve greatness.

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SKIN, SUN, HYPERPIGMENTATION, INGREDIENTS

The the year It is

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Tr Understanding the cause of hyperpigmentation and the action of ingredients that address hyperpigmentation is key to developing impactful skin care products. BY ADA S. POLLA AND ANNE POUILLOT

nce upon a time in Western culture, being tanned was a sign of wealth—tanned skin indicated that instead of slaving away in an office, one had all the time and money to enjoy the world’s most beautiful beaches. At another point in time, being tanned was a sign of poverty, indicating that you labored for a living. Today, we strive for the middle. More aware of the dangers of unprotected sun exposure, consumers understand the value of sunscreen, and strive for a complexion that is fair, even but still shows a bit of sun. Understanding the way melanin works is key to creating products that help one achieve this perfect complexion. In this review, we look at both the causes of heavy pigmentation and at some of the ingredients that aim to even out pigmentation and improve the evenness of complexion.

Cause of Pigmentation Pigmentation is a complex metabolic process that includes tyrosinase activity, 18

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melanosome formation and a cascade of intermediate metabolites that result in the formation of melanin. Melanin is both good and bad. The most important positive role of melanin is protecting the skin against UV radiation. Melanocytes are, therefore, important for the human body. However, when melanogenesis becomes hyperactive in melanocytes, the skin develops epidermal hyperpigmentation—including melasma, freckles and senile lentigines. In lay terms, melanin hyperactivity can lead to unsightly brown spots. Let’s look more specifically at the three main causes of hyperactive melanin.

UV Exposure

Ultraviolet radiation directly stimulates melanin synthesis and the proliferation of melanocytes, as well as the release of cytokines such as the alpha-melanocytestimulating hormones (MSH) from keratinocytes or melanocytes which upregulate the tyrosinase level in melanocytes.1

Hormones

Hormones, specifically estrogen, is also involved in the synthesis of melanin.

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These are hyper-secreted during pregnancy. Melasma (also known as the pregnancy mask) appears at any time during a woman’s reproductive years, and is often associated with pregnancy or oral contraceptive use. It is highly exacerbated by exposure to UV.

Post-inflammatory Hyperpigmentation

Various skin conditions—such as acne, eczema and allergic responses— can lead to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. This is an acquired excess of melanin pigments following cutaneous inflammation or injury such as acne, contact dermatitis, atopic dermatitis or trauma. Darkly pigmented individuals are particularly prone to developing this form of hypermelanosis.2

Treating Hyperpigmentation The treatment of pigmentary disorders remains a challenge, as there are no standardized treatments for melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation or pigmentation due to photoaging. Typically, the use of dual-or triple combination product as a first approach is recommended. The combination of various pharmacologic agents with chemical peels, microdermabrasion, and/or pigment-specific lasers can lead to accelerated healing times and a more rapid and more significant improvement, and can reduce the occurrence of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. The ideal depigmentating compound should have a potent, rapid and selective bleaching effect on hyperactivated melanocytes; carry no shortor long-term side effects; and lead to a permanent removal of undesired pigment, acting at one or more steps of the pigmentation process.

Hydroquinone: What is it?

It is a hydroxyphenolic chemical that inhibits tyrosinase by preventing the conversion of tyrosine to dihydroxyphenylalanine, a precursor of melanin. Hydroquinone may interfere with pigmentation even through alteration of melanosome formation and melanization ectent and selectively damaging melanosomes and melanocytes. Pros << In the U.S., hydroquinone is readily available in concentrations up to 2% as an over-the-counter (OTC) drug and by prescription at higher concentrations.3 It is considered the gold standard for treatment of hyperpigmentation, and has been for over 50 years. Cons>> The side effects of hydroquinone include allergic contact dermatitis, irritant contact dermatitis, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and nail discoloration. Irritation, stinging and/or burning have been observed transiently during the first day of application and disappeared with use of the medication after a few days. For these reasons, hydroquinone is banned in the European Union for cosmetic use (prescription only).

Kojic acid: What is it?

Kogic acid is a naturally occurring hydrophilic fungal product derived from certain species of Acetobacter, Aspergillus and Penicillium.

tes.1

Pros << Kogic acid reduces hyperpigmentation by inhibiting the production of tyrosinase and is also a potent antioxidant.4 Cons>> Kojic acid has the potential to cause contact dermatitis and erythema.5

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Skin, Sun, Hyperpigmentation, Ingredients Arbutin: What is it?

Arbutin is a derivative of hydroquinone, and exists in the dried leaves of certain plant species such as bearberry or blueberry. Pros << Arbutin inhibits tyrosinase activity, inhibits melanosome maturation and is less toxic to melanocytes than hydroquinone. Arbutin is a safe and mild agent for treating cutaneous hyperpigmentation disorders, including melasma and UV-induced hyperpigmentation. Cons>> None.

Ellagic acid: What is it?

Ellagic acid is a naturally polyphenol found in plants such as strawberries, grapes and green tea. Pros << Ellagic acid can prevent pigmentation such freckles caused by sun exposure. Cons >> None.

Paper mulberry extract: What is it? Paper mulberry extract comes from the root bark of the Morus alba tree, and has been shown to have a skin whitening properties. Pros << Mulberry leaves have been shown to inhibit tyrosinase activity and melanin formation. No toxicity has been associated with this ingredient, as is shown by many human skin irritation test. Cons>> None.

Niacinamide: What is it?

Niacinamide is a biologically active form of vitamin B3 found in many root vegetables and yeasts. Pros << Niacinamide inhibits the transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes. Furthermore, topical niacinamide has also been shown to decrease collagen oxidation products and improve aging-induced yellowing or sallowness. Cons>> None. Ascorbic acid (vitamin C): What is it? Vitamin C is an antioxidant that can scavenge free radicals such as peroxides, which contribute to tyrosinase activation and melanin formation.

Pros << Topical application of vitamins C decreases the tanning response by inhibiting the UV-induced melanogenesis and proliferation of melanocytes. Cons>> While vitamin C can momentarily retard the melanin-biosynthesis pathway, it can not eliminate it.

Conclusion There are three main causes of uneven pigmentation: excessive sun exposure, hormones and trauma that leads to inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Identifying the cause of “brown spots” is key to optimal treatment. Combining therapies with topical products will ensure optimal therapeutic results. And topical products with a combination of ingredients such as those mentioned herein is key. n GCI References 1. G Imokawa et al, Endothelins secreted from human keratinocytes are intrinsic mitogens for human melanocytes. J Biol Chem 267; 24675-24680 1992 2. M Chong, Disorders of hyperpigmentation. In: Bolognia J, Jorizzo R, Rapini P, editors. Dermatology : Mosby ; 2008, p939-40 and Rivera AE. Acne scarring: a review and current treatment modalities, J Am Acad Dermatol. 2008; 59(4):659-76 3. PG Engasser et al. Cosmetics and dermatology: bleaching creams 1981; Grimes PE Melasma. Etiologic and therapeutic consideration 1995 4. V Kahn, Effect of kojic acid on the oxidation of DL-DOPA, norepinephrine, and dopamine by mushroom tyrosinase. Pigment Cell Res. 1995; 8:234-40) 5. M Nakagawa et al, Contact allergy to kojic acid in skin care products, Contact Dermatitis 1995

Anne Pouillot joined Alchimie Forever in February 2006 as an intern, then was promoted to scientific and technical assistant, when she obtained her master’s degree in biochemistry with a specialization in plant molecules. She is involved in the conception and formulation of Alchimie Forever products.

Ada Polla is the co-creator of the Swiss antioxidant skin care line Alchimie Forever, which launched in the U.S. in 2004. Her strategic focus and implementation have yielded double-digit annual revenue growth for the company. She holds an MBA from Georgetown University, majored in art history and political science at Harvard University and graduated magna cum laude with a Bachelor of Arts degree in 1999. She is also a GCI magazine editorial advisor.

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SUPPLIERS’ DAY

WHERE GLOBAL BEAUTY MEETS Attend Suppliers’ Day and Meet: • 300+ Suppliers • 6,000 Industry Professionals • Countless Industry Innovations May 11, 2015 Discover India Symposium Renaissance Woodbridge, Iselin, NJ May 12-13, 2015 Suppliers’ Day Expo NJ Convention & Expo Center Edison, NJ

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Packaging by DemograPhics

What to keep in mind when designing packaging for each generation of consumer.

BY LISA DOYLE

IMPACT POINTS n

As the population of Baby Boomers ages, the need for having userfriendly packaging continues to increase.

Generation X consumers aren’t as swayed by flashy graphics or outlandish product claims, but they aren’t going to shy away from technology—as long as it serves a purpose.

Creativity is highly valued by the Millennial generation, and eyecatching packaging that shares in their spirit of individuality can draw in Millennial consumers.

Packaging By Demographics

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t’s been made abundantly clear that tailoring your packaging is key to attracting the target consumer. However, in today’s ever-changing world, it can be diﬃcult to keep up with fluctuating expectations—especially with the target including Millennials, the twenty-somethings craving customization in every possible way. “The designer needs to ask this basic question before designing packaging: How will I attract a specific person when they are about to make a decision on choosing this product among all the other products?” says Emilio Smeke, CEO of Daily Concepts. The properties that can attract a consumer to a package can be boiled down to three major characteristics: form, function and fun—and industry experts weigh in on what makes a package fall into these categories for each major consumer segment: Baby Boomers, Generation X and Millennials. Although each characteristic needs to be weighed carefully when considering the target consumer group, clearly these should be used as a guideline rather than a mandate. It’s also important to think about more than a target population’s age—subgroups and niches within each population must be considered as well. “It’s important to distinguish the younger Millennials from the older ones, because there’s a large and significant gap between them,” asserts Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst, The NPD Group. “The

needs and tendencies of a 19-year old are obviously not the same as a 33-year old.”

Baby Boomers FORM As the population of Baby Boomers ages, the need for having user-friendly packaging continues to increase. “For Baby Boomers, the key is to make sure the package is easy to open and intuitive to use,” says Sandra Hutson, sales and marketing director, Topline Products. Charlotte Libby, senior beauty analyst, Mintel Agrees—stating, “Further opportunities exist in addressing the needs of aging users, such as easy-grip containers.” FUNCTION “The group of people born between 1946–1964 are well-known for their wealth, physical look and fitness, therefore the packaging design has to speak luxury, privilege and health benefits to attract this group,” asserts Smeke. Indeed, health benefits on labels becomes ever-more important as consumer awareness of pollution and emissions grows—a key trend that Mintel has identified for 2015. In the U.K., 83% of adults reportedly feel lifestyle has a big impact on skin, and 48% of women aged over 65 report using a moisturizer to counter the effects of pollution or the environment. Accuracy in

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Packaging by Demographics labeling, as well as prominently featuring a product’s benefits in legible, large text can only make a product more attractive to the Boomer market. FUN As far as many Baby Boomers are concerned, the less gimmicky a package is, the more likely they’re drawn to it. Appealing to a Boomer’s established self-image will lead to better results. “Because they have more to spend than the younger set, high-end packaging that looks and feels luxurious has a strong appeal,” says Hutson.

ensure the packaging claims are valid. “Consumers are already embracing apps that scrutinize a product’s environmental credentials, and we anticipate more brands to become increasingly transparent in the coming year,” says Richard Cope, senior trends consultant at Mintel. FUN “For Gen X, they are well-known for being highly educated, balanced and happy people; therefore a design should reflect cleverness, functionality and make this group feel valuable and unique,” says Smeke

Generation X

Millennials

FORM Like their Baby Boomer counterparts, Generation X consumers aren’t as swayed by flashy graphics or outlandish product claims—they’ve been around the block and are more likely to be skeptical. However, like the younger Millennials, they aren’t going to shy away from technology—as long as it serves a purpose.

FORM Creativity is highly valued by the Millennial generation, as they see themselves as highly unique, and the brands they purchase are thus considered an extension of their opinions and selves. Eye-catching packaging that shares in their spirit of individuality can draw in Millennial consumers. “Designing packaging for Millennials involves being more specific to their sonamed culture they feel a part of, and the design needs to make them feel as special and individual as possible,” says Smeke. One example is the tablet-inspired package, as seen in the EM Life Palette that Topline designed for L’Oréal. “Millennials have grown up with tablets and mobile phones— devices they consider indispensable,” says Hutson. “Designs inspired by such technologies strongly appeal to this group.”

FUNCTION “For Gen X consumers, packaging that carries a lot of information is important— from ingredients labeling to applying cosmetics using instructions incorporated within the packaging itself,” says Hutson. As with the Boomers, being direct with labeling will draw in the Gen X buyer. Taking it one-step further, the tech-savvy Gen Xer will follow up by researching to

FUNCTION As Millennials also tend to veer toward the eco-friendly and socially responsible, a greater emphasis on recyclable or reusable packages is key. “The in-home longevity offered from the beauty and personal care category adds greater potential for companies to focus on the aesthetics of their products in order to add value, raising their profile with impressionable young Millennials in particular,” says Libby. “Encouraging consumers to recycle packs could result in an improved profile and long-term loyalty.” FUN “Brighter-colored packaging and urban graphics seems to work well with the younger generation,” says Hutson. “Younger people love innovation; the more creative the package, the better.” The Destination: Gorgeous palette Topline manufactured for the Cargo brand features striking fourcolor graphics in the exterior package that captures the attention and appeals more to a younger, city-dwelling consumer. In the future, keep an eye out for even more forms of interactive packaging that draws the purchaser to the brand’s social media pages via printed information and graphics advertising contests, video links, or other ways to connect more closely with the consumer. n GCI

Lisa Doyle was formerly the associate editor of GCI magazine and is a freelance writer in the Chicago area. Her work has appeared in Skin Inc. magazine, Salon Today, America’s Best, Renew and Modern Salon.

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CONSUMER TESTING; BRAND BUILDING

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C IMPACT POINTS

Studies confirm that women regularly look for proof of efficacy in the form of consumer reviews.

Double-blind testing can give your current product a big boost when testing panelists claim they love it more than the industry leader.

Consumer Testing; Brand Building

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onducting consumer perception testing or beauty product testing to garner hard-hitting consumer claims is a smart marketing move for any beauty brand with a new product about to go to market. Different from clinical studies, beauty product testing with consumers puts the emotional “wow” in claims, from a female product tester’s point of view. It’s your potential consumer’s proof point that they’re looking for, and one they are increasingly demanding. Studies confirm that women regularly look for proof of efficacy in the form of consumer reviews and quotes as their #1 purchase influencer when considering a product they hadn’t purchased previously . For hundreds of brands, consumer testing is fundamental to the development and roll-out of new SKUs. Consumer testing groups consist of a representative sample of a specific consumer segment that tests new products before they are introduced to the market to gauge emotional, physical and aesthetic appeal. By “specific consumer segment” we mean a group of female beauty consumers that match your product’s exact consumer demographic in age, type of beauty products regularly purchased (mass, masstige, prestige), and even household income, skin type or skin issues. The feedback, responses and information garnered from these highly targeted participants then allows brands to bridge the gap between promised benefits and consumer expectations. It affords the brand the insights to tease out nuances that, ultimately, will get consumers to buy your product over and over again. These rich and positive consumer claims help a new product to become tried and trusted. But what can beauty product testing groups do to help market SKUs that might be a few years old? Plenty! Read on to discover a few new ways to add marketing zing to your stalwart beauty offerings. Online surveys of 1,000+ U.S. women from Beauty Wish List 2015 (conducted October 2014), Haircare 2015 (conducted October 2014) and TBC’s latest PinkReport (conducted 2014, to be published Q2 2015).

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Save the Date Thursday, April 9 • 4 — 8 pm • New York Botanical Gardens For more information and to register, visit www.Perfumers.org. ASP_SaveDate_orchid_GCI.indd 4

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CONSUMER TESTING; BRAND BUILDING

Competitive Nudge—Our Product is Better than Yours! Your brand has always known its hero SKU is better than brand B’s. Now it’s time to prove it. If you’re old enough to remember the original “Coke” versus “Pepsi” Challenge, you’ll recall TV commercials featuring soda A versus soda B, offered in identical cups to passers-by. The eager testers didn’t know which brand was A and which was B, but simply offered their opinions of each brand based on taste. A “double-blind” beauty product test, conducted by a reliable thirdparty testing organization, is similar in many ways. Your product and your competitor’s product would be taped securely to completely obscure identifying names or logos. Your product would be marked as A and your competitor’s as B. Let’s imagine this test to be your triedand-true eyeliner, offered against brand B’s headline-grabbing eyeliner. Your participants would be instructed to use eyeliner A on their left eye in the morning, with an equal amount of eyeliner B on their right eye, allowing them to continue with their daily makeup routine after that, without reapplication of the eyeliners. At the end of the day, your participants would answer pointed questions regarding the efficacy of brand A and brand B. Which one lasted longest? Which offered the boldest color? Which one was easiest to apply? Which one didn’t smudge? Which made eye makeup “pop” most? The claims questioning can be as detailed and vast as beauty products themselves. Double-blind testing can give your current product a big boost when testing panelists claim they prefer it over brand B’s industry leader.

Same Product, Different Focus One of your hero SKUs has always sold well as an anti-aging night cream that women trust. The product sells better than any of your brand’s other SKUs, and while that’s good news, your product development and marketing teams know that some new product energy is needed to refresh the brand as a whole, especially in an over-crowded anti-aging market. In earlier clinical testing, the anti-aging night cream was proven efficacious on a number of levels. Consumer testing also supported those efficacy claims, leading to effective marketing messages that keep that SKU rolling off the shelves at a steady pace. In addition, clinicals proved another fact that the brand hadn’t paid much attention to—the cream was also effective at clearing up troubled skin. Your ingredients haven’t changed, but maybe your marketing messages should be restyled to open up the product to a new audience. You know the ingredients can help with problem A and problem B, but your marketing’s always been all about anti-aging, since that has been the “issue du jour” for the longest time. Time for a change. Conduct a beauty product test related to the efficacy of the same product, focused on problem B (troubled skin) in a discrete lab sample container with a targeted group of women who have the same skin issues and match the demographic of your potential consumer. By garnering enthusiastic claims from women who thoroughly test the products within the parameter of the trial, you can have confidence marketing the same SKU with reworked marketing messages highlighting the product’s benefits relative to calming the skin.

Consumer Testing; Brand Building

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New and Improved! When Cannibalization is a Good Thing Some legacy SKUs are like aging rock stars, once vibrant and exciting but now looking a bit haggard and slightly out of place on today’s shelves. Without a doubt, these old rock stars are beloved but they’re like a Cheap Trick concert in 2015, playing a casino auditorium filled with fans who are 50+ when they once played to sold-out arenas of screaming teens. They just aren’t pulling the numbers that they once did. Enter your new and improved product. After needed formulation changes and requisite safety testing, you’re ready to prove that your new product is even more effective than your old, beloved rock star SKU. Using the double-blind beauty product testing methodology, offer rock star product A and new product B to either one testing

group (if both products can be compared effectively by one person, as in the above eyeliner example) or two separate testing groups. Each group will contain the same targeted demographic. It will be clear, upon completion of the trial, just how much the new product has improved compared to the older product’s final results. If results are as expected, your new claims will help you to usher in a whole new audience of loyal consumers.

Is Beauty Product Testing Always a Win? Beauty product testing cannot guarantee positive consumer claims. What it can do is truly position your brand or product (new or existing) for success and help side-step as many potential pitfalls as possible. A consumer testing trial is one of the best and most reliable methods for discovering potential hidden problems and for highlighting what consumers love

most about the product. If your product test results aren’t what you were hoping for, you don’t have to share them with the world! You can use them to provide valuable information to your product development team and re-work your product formula or product marketing. If they are stellar, you’ve got the right marketing tools to move forward with a big splash, whether your product is new, like-new or an old rock star. Brands that set themselves up with powerful feedback from a beauty product test run by a trusted third-party testing organization are as ready as possible for any outcome. n GCI

DENISE HERICH is co-founder and managing partner at The Benchmarking Company, a bi-coastal consumer research firm borne from Alisa Beyer’s The Beauty Company. The Benchmarking Company provides marketing and strategy professionals in the beauty and personal care industries with forward-thinking, need-to-know information about its customers and prospects through consumer research studies and beauty product testing.

2015

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Consumer Testing; Brand Building

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MARKET REPORT: MEN’S SHAVING

MANSCAPING AND SUBSCRIPTIONS: NEW PARADIGMS IN FACIAL HAIR

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BY NICOLE TYRIMOU, EUROMONITOR INTERNATIONAL

IMPACT POINTS

Men’s grooming is expected to grow to $42.2 billion by 2018, 20% higher than the current value.

Capturing a niche consumer group, such as men that shave their body, may be key to growth in mature markets.

Identifying benefits that consumers view as real added value is key to winning on a strategy of introducing higher price shaving products.

Market Report: Men’s Grooming

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illette is the undisputed king of the shaving world, holding over 27% of the total men’s grooming category and over 65% of razors and blades in 2013. However, the brand has been losing ground across all regions with the exception of Latin America—indicating that, despite the big gap from its competitors, it is struggling to maintain position. While it has even been losing ground in the fast-growing Middle East and Africa and Asia Pacific regions, it is its vulnerability in its home market that is most worrying for the company. In the U.S., its share declined from 73% in 2008 to 66% in 2013. It is then of no surprise that the company has been looking at ways to boost its competitiveness in the world’s largest shaving market.

Beards Become in Vogue The biggest issue for both Gillette and its razor competitors has been the rise of the beard trend. The high cost of shaving, a growing acceptance for unshaven faces in business settings and the fashion trend for hipster beards all contributed to the slowdown of razor and blade sales. The slowdown has been most pronounced in Western Europe, where the market remained static, and in North America, where razors and blades declined for the first time since the height of the recession. In Europe, the hipster beard trend has been especially strong in the U.K. (London in particular) and France, where companies have been launching products for the three-day beard trend. Southern Europe

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has always traditionally been a big shaving market, but high unemployment coupled with the high cost of shaving and a more relaxed attitude to business dress code has resulted in declines for razors and blades. The U.S. not only declined for the first time in 2013 but also lost its place as the world’s biggest razor and blade market to Brazil. Brazil is traditionally a high consumption/low cost market, and therefore remains dominated by disposables, which account for over 70% of sales of razors and blades. However, its dependence on disposables is actually in decline, with system razors increasing from 10% in 2008 to 13% in 2013. In contrast, in the U.S. (traditionally a premium market) the increasing sophistication of disposables such as Bic and the rise of subscription players like Dollar Shave Club have rejuvenated sales of disposables, which reached nearly 31% of total sales in 2013. Both system razors and system refills are losing share. Gillette’s 2014 introduction of a subscription program in the U.S. demonstrates that the company is looking at these players and the rise of disposables as detrimental to its dominance.

Can Innovation Win Back the Edge? Gillette has been on a roll in terms of innovation, introducing Fusion ProGlide Power to the Fusion Pro Glide Styler line in 2013, both engineered to work with stubble and beard to trim and style rather than shave. Both of Gillette’s offerings have been claimed as successful despite their high price compared to ordinary razors. While that may indicate that some consumers are willing to pay for products that offer perceived value, their popularity and higher price have done little to stop Gillette’s declining U.S. sales. As a result, Gillette’s innovation team is looking to expand its consumer base by capturing a niche but, according to the company, growing consumer group: men who shave their body. In early 2014, Gillette announced the launch of Gillette Body, a razor that created for “manscaping.” Given the niche consumer bracket it targets, it is not the solution to Gillette’s falling sales. Most importantly, it is a product that consumers will find harder to identify as www.GCImagazine.com

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having added value when compared with regular razors, disposables and depilatories that consumers have already been using for body shaving/hair removal. In April 2014, Gillette introduced Fusion ProGlide with FlexBall Technology, inspired by the upmarket vacuum cleaner Dyson and featuring a rolling ball that helps it pivot in every direction. It is the first time in more than 30 years that Gillette has changed the handle of its razors. And the new razor is in line with the company’s premium strategy, with a price point higher than the average system razor. While Fusion ProGlide claims to offer a premium shaving experience, shaving remains a tedious, necessary activity for most men. Though a product that helps significantly shorten the process can have added value for consumers, if a daily shave is still required and the difference between the processes is just 30 seconds, it is questionable whether one would pay $15 instead of $3 for a product that, more or less, does the same job.

Ongoing Fight for Domination in Men’s Grooming Men’s grooming is expected to become a $42.2 billion industry by 2018, an accumulative 20% higher than its current value. Shaving will remain just under half of that, with razors and blades the largest category. As a result, the competition between brands for a piece of the revenue pie will only intensify. While Brazil and India are strong markets for Gillette in its global strategy, it needs to stabilize things at home. Innovation on the higher end has, as of yet, done little to stop decline in sales. And, moreover heavy, promotions by retailers further undermine the brands profits. As competitors from Wilkinson Sword to Bic are getting a stronger hold of the market, Gillette needs to perhaps rethink its strategy about premium shaving. Are these premium products really improving shaving experience enough for consumers to trade up? n GCI

Nicole Tyrimou is a Euromonitor International beauty and personal care analyst.

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MARKETING, MEN’S CARE

SEX APPEAL: Four Tips for Marketing Men’s Products to Guys and the Women Who Buy for Them

IMPACT POINTS n

Men like to hear benefits that are functional and relevant to them.

The common theme in marketing to men is a mandate to leverage an emotional connection to preventing a negative

Men are not browsers, and tend to focus on the needs of the moment. As such, it is critical to be crystal clear to men, which is why men’s products tend to feature stark contrasting colors.

Research has shown that men are noticeably more driven to numbers than women.

Male shoppers decide which product attributes matter and determine what they want through a process of elimination.

Marketing, Men’s Care

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BY SCOTT GARRISON AND SOURABH SHARMA

“W

omen are from Venus and men are from Mars” is more than just a psychobabble catchphrase from the 1990s; it accurately captures the differences in gender appeal when it comes to consumer behavior. Think of all the ads and messages that portray men as buffoonish (the unkempt beer drinker) or overtly feminized (the waxed seducer in a fragrance ad). In a classic hetero vs. metro world of male marketing, the truth is that most men fall somewhere in between. Gone are the days when all you needed was an attractive woman to sell cars or beer to a macho man. Though men, in general, can be cutthroat competitive, goal-oriented, interested in power and, frankly, wired very differently from their female counterparts, marketers must focus first on aptly targeted emotional marketing and the relevant benefits that products can provide and then on who is making the actual purchase: the man in question or a woman in his life. Through a meta-analysis of messages across a plethora of categories including beauty and personal care, SKIM, an international marketing research consultancy, has derived four tips to keep in mind when creating claims and communications messages for men - and the women who buy for them.

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Ti p 1

Avoid Extensions of Feminine Benefits, Make Benefits Relevant to Men

Research has shown that “gender contamination,” a term formulated by Harvard Business School senior lecturer Jill Avery, is prevalent in modern advertising. It occurs when one gender “owns” a brand and its introduction to the other gender is perceived as threatening. Perhaps the rise of men’s grooming lines in the mid-2000s was indicative of this: Clinique’s Men’s Supplies, Biotherm Homme, L’Oréal Paris for Men or Dove Men+Care are all traditionally female brands that focused on morphing a feminine brand into a masculine one. Despite some initial hiccups, these brands have established a foothold in men’s bathrooms. Avery’s research found that most men fear being interpreted as feminine, more so than women fear being interpreted as masculine. This finding is very much in line with SKIM’s research on how to market to men through well articulated messaging. Men like to hear benefits that are functional and relevant to them. They need their body wash to clean and wash away the dirt, or their face wash to cleanse their pores. Women generally prefer more descriptive articulations that bring the products to life with benefits such as moisturization, supple skin, nourishment and other such aspirational adjectives. Even when women buy for their men, they look for a promise of efficacy that produces a desirable result. “Leaves hair smooth and shiny” or “leaves skin lightly scented” are claims that can appeal to women for themselves, or bring to life how they would like their men to look or smell. Men would vouch for “flake-free hair” as it addresses a more relevant problem. Given the dynamics of shopping behavior in households with couples, the balance between these is critical in determining motivation to buy.

Ti p 2

Touch the Emotional Nerve Behind the Machismo Persona

When addressing men solely based on machismo, sure, scantily clad women may have worked in eras bygone. Emotional marketing today is about digging deeper to learn what men actually want for themselves. As noted, men focus on functional elements. A razor must be rustproof; an aftershave must be cooling and eliminate razor burn. The common theme is a mandate that marketers leverage an emotional connection to preventing a negative—like men’s fear of balding, razor burn or dandruff on shoulders. A deeply emotional insight lies within their pursuit of the functional, and it can be tapped by showcasing how to avoid such negatives with claims that specifically target them. Even with sensitive topics like hair loss, men perceive that products should “correct,” again implying a fix or alternative to a negative. Women aspire for products to revitalize and strengthen hair, and when they buy for their men, they continue to look for something that can be visualized. “A fuller scalp” would appeal to a woman because she can envision this on her man. It brings the benefit to life better than www.GCImagazine.com

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Marketing, Men’s Care

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MARKETING, MEN’S CARE

“Clinically proven to stop hair fall,” which would negate the fear better if a man was buying the same product for himself.

Ti p 3

Give Men Proof, Validation of Numbers

Men are not browsers, and tend to focus on the needs of the moment—compared to women who can dwell and ponder and continue to shop later. As such, it is critical to be crystal clear to men, which is why men’s products tend to feature stark contrasting colors so that clear cut benefits can be viewed clearly and immediately: Nivea’s white packs with blue font or L’Oréal’s grey or black packs with neon accents. Men also prefer facts and numbers over the lengthy descriptions of benefits; they are more inclined to purchase a product that cites clinical proof versus simply a promise of “softness.” Having “three powerful nutrients” or “multivitamin + protein,” for example, and making benefits specific is an appealing notion for men (including the simplicity of using a “+” sign!). Such claims are often regarded as unique, too. Before racing to R&D and legal teams to quantify potential claims, marketers should keep in mind that the numbers need to be relevant and credible. Extreme numbers, such as 100% blockage of a negative, dampen believability. To the other extreme, saying that the product prevents 25% of something seems tepid and inconsequential. It is a balancing act, but research has shown that men are noticeably more driven to numbers than women. A key distinction with women is that speed drives differentiation when they buy for their men. Women know that men spend less time than themselves on grooming, and speed of a benefit and convenience of use are larger factors in searching for male grooming products. While traditional marketers think that women want their men to look good so they can show them off to their friends,

Marketing, Men’s Care

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it is more likely that they want to ensure the product actually delivers what it promises with minimal hassle and a quick application process.

Ti p 4

Focus on Long-term Benefits, Not Immediate and Implausible Gratification

While benefits always override other elements in claims and communications, time is a facet that many brands use for differentiating themselves. Male shoppers decide which product attributes matter and determine what they want through a process of elimination. Women combine different elements to reach a more holistic decision. This simple shopping behavior affects the way the genders perceive time. Men generally tend to prefer a long lasting benefit—for example, with hair styling products, a 24-hour delivery of benefits is most motivating, as it conveys a notion of being hassle-free. Women, however, regardless of whether they are buying for themselves or for men in their lives, are inclined to seek out the “right look.” They would rather invest in perfection as opposed to long-term “hold” and “staying power,” even for their men. In fact, the long lasting element is so assumed that they are often even turned off if the longevity of a beauty product is mentioned. Take “Stronger hair for up to two weeks” versus simply “Stronger hair,” women would likely prefer the latter as it implies timelessness. On the topic of perfection, men are more likely to respond to healthy grooming messages than women, who seem to prefer products that amplify the beauty quotient. Even when shopping for their men, women prefer to see products that will enhance appearance and make their men better looking. Men, on the other hand, prefer a healthy, natural look. Case in point, a woman is likely to prefer a body wash

product that claims to “Nourish your skin with a rich lather and gentle cleansers” while an identical men’s product is likely to claim “Fights skin dryness to help maintain skin balance.” Naturally, this research does not indicate that women are unemotional; the descriptive wordings and visual nuances actually represent a more advanced stage of emotional decision making. Men and women emote differently, and women look for more aspirational gratification while men exhibit their emotions in overcoming a negative. Ultimately, grooming makes the men look good, too. And to a large degree the modern man has broken from 20th century stereotypes by being interested in looking good, perhaps even more so than actually being good. With luxury men’s grooming products from Shiseido or Lancôme focusing on fatigue prevention and age protection, and Gauliter Monsieur offering beauty enhancements for men, there is mounting evidence of this shift. So while men may indeed be from Mars and women from Venus, we see that the human species has one thing in common: the pursuit of self-gratification. n GCI

SCOTT GARRISON is a manager at SKIM. He is experienced in conducting marketing communication development projects for consumer products, beauty and technology brands. He oversees SKIM’s claim development methods with a focus on emotional claims. SOURABH SHARMA comes to SKIM with a keen eye for understanding consumer behavior. He adds perspective to marketing research from his years in brand management and product development at L’Oréal, where he launched hair color and makeup products for brands in Asia and North America. With a multifaceted background, Sharma enables the firms he works with to acquire a stronger understanding of their end users. Furthermore, he strives to extract value from the evolving brand-to-consumer interface through his social media research.

GCI March 2015

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Men’s Grooming Trends

Men’s growing interest in their personal appearance and the fashion for full beards is shaping trends within the men’s grooming market. By Imogen Matthews

rands and retailers have traditionally treated the men’s grooming category as an afterthought to women’s beauty, but that has changed as men take more interest in their appearance. According to Datamonitor Consumer,* not only do 52% of global male consumers consider their looks and appearance to be either important or very important but 29% touch up their looks throughout the day. This percentage rises to 39% of young men aged 15–17, the future primary purchasers of grooming products. In 2014, Datamonitor Consumer valued the global market for male toiletries at $22.2 billion, which grew by 3.6% on the previous year, and growth has come across all the primary subcategories: razors and blades, shaving preparations, and shaving aftercare. However, in the U.S., Procter & Gamble reported razor and shaving accessories *Datamonitor Consumer will contribute two trends-based presentations at the 2015 in-cosmetics Marketing Trends presentations in Barcelona (April 14–16). Associate analyst Jamie Mills will reveal the latest data and insights on this evolving category.

sales of $3.7 billion in 2014, down 2% year on year, which coincides with the trend for facial hair. Part of the reason for the decline in sales might also be attributed to high prices for razors and replacement blades (see “Manscaping and Subscriptions: New Paradigms in Facial Hair,” beginning on Page 30). If men shave less often, or not at all, they can save considerable amounts of money, which can be a key consideration during times of austerity. The key to addressing this change in usage habits will be for brand owners to focus on aftercare add-on products designed to avoid nicks, ingrown hairs and other skin-related issues associated with shaving.

New Product

Launches Growing Despite worrying signs that the men’s grooming category is suffering, brand owners have, if anything, increased their commitment to innovation and new product launches. Over the past two years, the U.S. was the most active in terms of new product launches, accounting for 21%

of global new men’s grooming products, according to Datamonitor Consumer’s Product Launch Analytics tool. The U.K. is another buoyant market, representing 17% of global new men’s launches during the same period. The range of products aimed at men is increasing all the time and reflects evolving consumer habits and a desire for more sophisticated products. According to Datamonitor Consumer, there are two key user groups: men who use toiletries to help maintain good personal hygiene, health and wellbeing and a new breed of man who buys products with the sole intention of improving their physical appearance. This is giving rise to new categories, such as self-tan for men with products like the first natural tanner that contours the body. Anti-aging products for men are also on the rise, mirroring this long-standing trend in the women’s skin care category. A further sub-trend is for brands to launch several variants under the same brand, such as Nivea Men’s Originals, Active Age, Cooling, Sensitive, Skin Energy and Extra Comfort shaving and skin care options.

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Men’s Grooming Trends

Facial Hair

Becomes the Norm The beard trend is not going unnoticed by men’s grooming brands, although most new beard-specific products are being launched by niche players. Datamonitor Consumer has documented the increase of beard grooming products from just eight in 2011 to 42 in 2014, signifying a move away from the “metrosexual” towards a “lumberjack” look, dubbed “lumbersexual.” Examples include the U.K. launches Billy Jealousy Beard Conditioner, The Bearded Man Co. Natural Beard Oil and Beardilizer Beard Nutritional Complex, which also sells in the U.S. Even private label brands are keeping up with the trend for beards, with the launch of Balea Men’s 3 Day beard conditioning gel in Germany. Beard upkeep can be a simple task of finding a suitable oil to keep the beard moisturized and looking its best, and there are other opportunities here: beard cleansers and conditioners for full beard wearers and beard colorants for older men who want a beard but are embarrassed by the gray. And some believe sporting a full beard will become rather passé, with moustaches to become the latest facial hair must-have. Murdock London, a chain of barbershops based in the hipster mecca of Shoreditch, London, has been witnessing the rise of moustaches amongst British gentlemen for some time. The trend has received a boost due to the popularity of the Movember campaign each November, when men are encouraged to grow a moustache for charity. This latest trend opens up further opportunities for moustachespecific care products, including balms and waxes, to help the user keep their moustache in shape, tame stray hairs or create different styles. Examples include Bounder Extra Firm Moustache Wax, made from beeswax with the addition of Caribbean navy rum and vanilla extracts, and Stache Bomb Stache Wax, handmade in Portland, Maine, and featuring the manly smell of a freshly cut pine trees with beeswax to provide a firm hold. Datamonitor Consumer predicts that the next frontier in men’s grooming products will be to target “menopausal” men in their 40s and 50s. Traditionally ignored due to their lack of interest in grooming products, these older consumers lead active lifestyles and are more conscious about their appearance and health than earlier generations. Some niche brands have been quick off the mark to recognize the potential spending power of this demographic, such as Urth Skin Solutions for Men, a U.K. anti-aging shaving cream and hydrating treatment containing Asian herbs, pure essential oils, vitamins and phyto-nutrients with claims to offer a more youthful appearance by reducing surface lines and enhancing firmness. There is still much at stake for personal care brands to innovative with products that claim to reduce and combat the signs of aging, and to make men feel more youthful, energetic and “manly.” n GCI

Imogen Matthews is a consultant to in-cosmetics. For more information, contact www.imogenmatthews.co.uk.

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Exploring the Future

of Product Development

is returning to Philadelphia on

What did 2014 attendees think of C&T Summit? “Everything has been outstanding...the venue, great topics and great speakers.”

—Michele Robertson, Kolmar Labs

Learn more and register at Summit.CosmeticsandToiletries.com CT_Summit_2015_ExploreFuture_FullPage.indd 1

2/13/15 10:00 AM

The WHOLE

n by Alexander Kwapis

Package

As the Modern Male Consumer Evolves, So Must His Packaging The lines between “macho” and “metro” have blurred, and male consumers are more comfortable than ever using an expanding roster of products.

nce branded as a niche market segment, male grooming has undeniably gone mainstream. For the first time in history, men’s toiletries outperformed shavecentric products, resulting in new product line expansions and marketing strategies for brands. The lines between “macho” and “metro” have blurred, and male consumers are more comfortable than ever introducing once-taboo products to their daily routines —such as serums, eye creams and exfoliators. With predictions that the men’s grooming and personal care market, already valued in the billions, will continue to grow (see “Manscaping and Subscriptions: New Paradigms in Facial Hair,” beginning on Page <XX>), brands and packaging suppliers are taking notice.

Changing Attitudes, New Regimes Shaving has always been a universally shared male experience, and, as such, products tailored to this area of men’s grooming consistently dominated the retail space. However, attitudes towards grooming have shifted, and roughly one third of male consumers now spend over half an hour each day on personal care, according to Euromonitor International. Through its own research, Fusion Packaging noticed behavioral changes in the way male consumers used their products at home. Men and women under the same roof are combating limited counter and shower space by sharing products in their daily routines. As such, pioneering men’s grooming companies like Anthony Brands are tuning into this trend and rethinking how they market products. Fusion Packaging worked with this brand to develop premium, gender-

neutral packaging for the launch of the High Performance line using the versatile Tru Collection. Because it was important that the results-driven products be easily understood by both men and women, smoky black and silver accents were used to give the packages a sophisticated, unisex appeal.

The Union of Form and Function The male grooming market recently experienced the rise of the “lumbersexual,” an ultra-masculine yet meticulously maintained grooming style for men, featuring full beards and trim moustaches. The key to this trend is defined by making an effort in one’s personal appearance without looking the part. These men are rugged but never unkempt. While humorous in spirit, the popularity of this bearded breed of man has opened new doors for personal care product expansions. Exfoliators are marketed as beneficial preshave products, as they remove dead skin cells and allow for a smoother shave. Aftershave serums and treatments absorb quickly to help soothe skin and prevent redness and annoying ingrown hairs. Direct applicators have also become more commonplace for eye and lip care products for men. Fusion Packaging recently launched the Direct Effect applicator collection, which delivers clean, convenient application with added sensorial product benefits—such as massaging and cooling effects to help products better penetrate the skin.

Simple and Systematic Appeal While many men are becoming more adventurous with new product trials, research still shows that simple is key for their daily

routines. Male shoppers are drawn to clean, easy-to-use packaging with clear instructions. Brands are adopting these 1-2-3 routines, which often include a pre-shave cleanser or exfoliator, shaving gel or cream and an aftercare lotion or serum. Formulas for men tend to be lighter and are quicker to absorb, which again appeals to this apply-and-go mentality. In its research, Fusion noticed male consumers in the Asian markets were early adopters of these types of new product categories, since skin care and cosmetics are more openly accepted culturally. This $13 billion market continues to be a global driver in sales for the men’s personal care industry. Due to greater disposable incomes and increased importance on personal appearance, the U.S. men’s grooming market continues to grow. We are seeing packaging decoration for products catered to men adopting new hues outside of traditional black and white, such as cool blues, powerful reds and slate grays. These subtle color diversions help set brands apart and make their own space in the ever-growing grooming arena. And the ability of packaging suppliers to cater to brands developing new or expanding product lines that capitalize on emerging trends is critical. It is also key to have flexibility in building packaging strategies to meet evolving needs—for example packaging families, such as those offered by Fusion, offer a variety of sizes and styles with a shared aesthetic, allowing product developers to build complete lines using mix-andmatch bottles, jars, airless tubes and direct applicators. n GCI

Alexander Kwapis is the creative director with Fusion Packaging.

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WRAP UP

The latest in Packaging innovation

SUPPLIER NEWS PEOPLE Raymond Palmen to director for packaging & industrial polymers, Europe, Middle East & Africa region, DuPont.

Precise Dosage

Bioplan

Bioplan launched Minidrip at Luxe Pack Monaco. The mini drop counter provides a new solution for serum and essential oils products that require precise dosage or application. To use the Minidrip, a consumer squeezes the rubber bulb to remove the air, releases the bulb to draw in the exact dosage and then presses the syringe bulb to release the product. For standard solutions, plastic or glass vials are available from 40 to 47 mm in height, containing from 1.5 to 4 mL. The rubber bulb comes in black, white or natural colors. www.bioplan-beauty.com/en

Cushion Compacts

Toly introduced a full range of cushion compacts, product filled sponge housed in the base of a compact. Toly also developed a net cushion version where a synthetic net sits above the product for a smooth application. Available sizes include 10, 15 and 20 grams, and there are several shapes from which to choose. www.toly.com

M&H Plastics and Asinerie du Pays des Collines

M&H Plastics, part of the RPC Group of Companies, supplied body care brand Asinerie du Pays des Collines with a range of clear bottles, including a 400 mL tall round and a retro “mushroom” cap, for its bath cream range. Meant to invoke a Belgian milk bottle, the bottle utilizes PET, and an upmarket look was created by the use of silver metallized screw and flip-top caps and serum pumps. www.mhplastics.com

www.GCImagazine.com

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Sun, Sun, Sun

Aptar Beauty + Home supplied packaging for the Neutrogena Cool Dry Sport Sunscreen lotion and spray bottles. The spray uses the secure, hoodless Twist-To-Lock Moritz accessory on VX valve, and the lotion is dispensed by the Large Frost Purity Oval closure. Aptar also provided the airless BOV system with Wren accessory for Kiss My Face’s After Play post-sun moisturizer. www.aptar.com Aptar Beauty + Home, Neutrogena

Milk Bottle

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MAIN INGREDIENTS

Ingredients now on the market

Peptide Protection

Mibelle Biochemistry created a heptapeptide that helps the skin protect itself from oxidative stress at the cellular level. PerfectionPeptide P7 keeps Nrf2 constantly present in active form to help skin cells protect themselves from stress caused by oxidants, free radicals and toxins. In ex vivo experiments and clinical trials, the peptide showed an ability to significantly protect the skin from oxidative stress at the cellular level by reducing DNA damage, UVinduced formation of sunburn cells and depletion of langerhans. To ensure the stability and bioavailability of PerfectionPeptide P7, the peptide has been encapsulated into a novel soft sphere carrier system that is based on shea butter. It is recommended for any daily defense formulation to safeguard both the youthfulness and beauty of skin. www.mibellebiochemistry.com

Sustainable Conditioning

Evonik launched a hair conditioning agent with an improved sustainability profile. Varisoft EQ 100 provides manageability, lubricity and softness to the hair. The 100% active esterquat is readily biodegradable, has a lower ecotox compared to common benchmarks, is cold-processable and is derived from a renewable, palm-based feedstock. The conditioning agent is suitable for a broad range of application formats in the hair care market, including conditioning rinses, hair conditioning sprays and treatments, conditioning shampoos, styling products and hair dyes. personal-care.evonik.com

optimized Retinoid

Grant Industries eliminated the irritation and stability issues associated with vitamin A in its new launch. Granactive Retinoid is a concentrated and easily formulated anhydrous matrix containing 10% of the pinacolyl ester of all-trans retinoic acid in a delivery solvent to increase activity of the retinoid while decreasing its irritancy potential and stability issues. The retinoid helps renew skin plumpness, elasticity and hydration to provide a radiant and fresh appearance. Moreover, the retinoid stimulates skin cell proliferation. It is recommended at 1-2% in anti-aging and anti-acne beauty treatments. www.grantinc.com

Carotene Antioxidant complex

Bicosome introduced a complex that boosts the skin’s ability to protect against ultraviolet and infrared radiation. Bicotene Antiox is a system that encapsulates and delivers stable carotenes and antioxidant vitamins to the deeper layers of the epidermis, providing biological protection against solar radiation. Once carotenes penetrate the stratum corneum, they may remain active for days to quench free radicals. Bicotene Antiox protects the skin collagen from IR degradation, immediately neutralizes free radicals present in the skin, blocks the generation of free radicals during UV exposure and reinforces the outer layers of the skin, preventing the signs of photoaging. It is recommended at 2-3 % in its liquid form and 0.4—0.6% in its lyophilized form in anti-aging moisturizers and daily serums, pre- and post-solar formulations, sunscreens, tanning products, anti-pollution treatments, makeup, lipsticks and general skin care products. www.bicosome.com

SUPPLIER NEWS DSM Personal Care signed a new distributor agreement with Mascot Universal Pvt. Ltd. to sell DSM’s cosmetic ingredients in South Asia. The agreement was effective Jan. 1, 2015. DKSH and Shin-Etsu Silicones extended their existing agreement to market, sell and distribute Shin-Etsu Silicones’ entire product range in Belgium, the Netherlands and Luxembourg. DKSH already provides marketing, sales, distribution and logistics services to Shin-Etsu Silicones in France, Germany and the Nordic countries. Croda rebranded Keramimic 2.0 to Kerestore 2.0, to better highlight the restoring benefits of its unique biomimetic keratin. Lucas Meyer Cosmetics received the Joseph P. Ciaudelli Award at the Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ Annual Meeting and Technology Showcase, as awarded by Kevin Gallagher of Croda to Estelle Loing of Lucas Meyer for her paper on a strategy to modulate alopecia. Clariant and Beraca formed a strategic alliance where Clariant will acquire a 30% share of Beraca’s health and personal care division with the possibility for major participation in the future. The transaction will be subject to certain conditions precedent, as well as regulatory approvals. Rahn is celebrating its 75th anniversary in 2015. Although founded in 1940 by Hans Rahn as a one-man business, the Swiss corporate group now has six subsidiaries and a total workforce of 114, while retaining its home base in Zurich. In light of celebrating its 125th anniversary in 2014, schülke has published its Sustainability Report, an independently-assessed view on its committment to sustainability. Floratech named Ross Organic its new distributor in the western region of the United States, consisting of California, Oregon and Washington. The agreement was effective Feb. 1, 2015. CLR Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH has been certified as having met the international Social Accountability Standard 8000 (SA8000), which is based on a number of existing international human rights standards. Spectra Colors Corp. named Deeks & Company its distributor for the Southeast United States.

PEOPLE Tammo Boinowitz, PhD, to head of Evonik’s personal care business. He is succeeding Dietmar Moll, PhD, who will move into a new role and take care of strategic projects in the future. Richard D. Hersey to senior director of business development for personal care, Coast Southwest. Philip Ludwig, manager for global product development and applications at Lonza Consumer Care, has been appointed to the advisory council of the Center for Dermal Research (CDR). Matthew Ottaway to as EMEA industry director, personal care, Univar.

42 Main Ingredients GCI March 2015

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www

FREE OF: Parabens Nitrosamines, EDTA Methylisothiazolinone 1,4 Dioxane Phthalates Bronopol

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MAIN INGREDIENTS Tailored Anti-aging

BASF presented its anti-aging facial care concept that translates consumer needs into tailored solutions. “Beautiful Faces” was developed from a consumer study in France conduced by BASF and TNS Infratest using a validated typology system to define the personality characteristics and needs of six consumer archetypes and translate these needs into innovative anti-aging face care products. The women were put into one of six groups (Energetic, Perfect, Professional, Protected, Authentic and Creative) based on their personality, emotional needs and purchase motivations, as opposed to external factors. The “Authentic” consumer, for example, places special emphasis on products that employ natural ingredients and are environmentally friendly. As a result, her anti-aging face care products need to be straightforward–with no need to fuss or spend a lot of time in front of the mirror. She favors a likable, trustworthy brand that offers good value for money. The “Authentic Boost” formulation is a dry yet nourishing anti-aging oil containing naturalbased ingredients that combines easy skin hydration with nongreasy, velvety smoothness. personal-care.basf.com

Lifting Active

Sederma debuted its lifting active for the face and neck. Majestem helps recreate dermal matrix tension through mitochondrial dynamism repair and extracellular matrix maintenance. This plant cell culture neutralizes the oxidative stress caused by pollution and irradiation to lift the skin. In three weeks, sagging neck skin is tightened from 10.6 to 56% and neck folds are evened out. After six weeks, the cheeks are visibly lifted and crow’s feet wrinkles are smoothed from 11 to 75%. The active complies with the Chinese regulation for cosmetic ingredients. www.sederma.fr

customized preservation

Troy Corp. created a series of customized broad-spectrum preservative blends for personal care applications. TroyCare FE allows the formulator to select one of three broad-spectrum blends with varying levels of iodopropynyl butylcarbamate (IPBC) in phenoxyethanol for their formulations, yielding the lowest total preservative cost. Three different blend ratios are offered: TroyCare FE003 with 0.3% IPBC, TroyCare FE01 with 1.0% IPBC and TroyCare FE02 with 2.0% IPBC. The blends provide antibacterial and antifungal performance and have excellent safety profiles, as well as global regulatory approval. www.troycorp.com

Hair Spray Hold

Ashland introduced a hair fixative terpolymer for hairsprays with lasting hold, stiffness and humidity resistance. Advantage 4910 polymer was used in-house by the company for a number of years before being commercially launched. The copolymer delivers the consumer benefits one would expect in a traditional hairspray. Style creation and fixation, along with key attributes such as humidity resistance and long lasting hold, may be obtained when using the polymer along with one or more of the company’s palette of styling and fixative polymers. The copolymer may be used in virtually any aerosol base formulation, across all VOC levels. www.ashland.com

Sea sediment Exfoliation

Rahn looked to sediment on the sea floor to source a natural exfoliant powder. Fossil Peeling Powder is a medium granulometry powder with good skin properties and compatibility. The protective shells of diatoms (one of the most common forms of phytoplankton) that created a sediment on the sea floor millions of years ago form the basis of the exfoliant. The natural powder helps remove superficial dead skin cells, stimulate cell renewal, rejuvenate new skin cells, eliminate impurities, improve skin texture and smoothness as well as restore the skin’s natural radiance and complexion. The exfoliating action will be more or less powerful depending on the concentration. The exfoliant is recommended at 3-7% in o/w or w/o emulsions, gels and lotions. www.rahn-group.com

Lilac Hair Repair

Naolys is using lilac to repair and add shine to hair. Healthy Shine Lilac has a multifunctional effect on hair, acting on all three parts of the hair: the root, the scalp and the shaft. The lilac extract reduces inflammation at the hair bulb and scalp, reduces oxidation at the hair bulb and increases energy production at the hair bulb. The lilac extract also repairs the hair shaft, where mechanical damage takes place, to enhance shine. Therefore, it is said to soothe irritation, smooth hair and reinforce hair’s natural protection to prevent hair damage. In addition, it restores shine to hair and energizes hair at the roots. Healthy Shine Lilac is recommended at 0.5% in hair products for strengthening and repairing hair, especially products for damaged hair. www.naolys.com

conditioning polymer

Penford Products, a division of Penford Corp., introduced a biobased deposition and conditioning polymer for personal care. PenCare DP is a patent-pending, naturally based cationic polymer with superior deposition and enhanced conditioning created to leave hair and skin smooth and soft. Due to the polymer’s easy rinseoff formula, it is recommended for shampoos and conditioners. It is a biopolymer sourced from rapidly renewable plants, has a stable supply chain and is globally acceptable. It is recommended at 0.1– 1.5% in rinse-off applications (shampoos, conditioners and body washes) and leave-on applications (lotions, styling products, conditioners).To support the commercial introduction of PenCare DP, Penford has developed a strategic commercial relationship with exclusive distributor Univar Inc. www.penford.com

Water-based Anti-frizz

Dow Corning unveiled a frizz control solution for water-based hair care formulations. Dow Corning CB-3046 Fluid provides frizz-taming control without the heavy feel and styling difficulties associated with oil-based anti-frizz solutions. It enhances hair alignment for sleek styles and curl definition for full, wavy hair styles. It also noticeably increases shine and provides excellent protection against heat. The frizz control fluid supports the formulation of water-based, leave-in frizz control products such as dual-phase sprays, and can also be used in anhydrous serums. This versatile technology allows for cold processing and enables clear formulations if desired. www.dowcorning.com/content/personal

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EVENTS march 2015

Products and SERVICES

showcase

CONTRACT MANUFACTURING

11 CEW 2015 Insiders’ Choice Beauty Awards Product Demo New York www.cew.org

19 CEW West Coast Presents: The NPD Group’s 2014 Year in Review and Trend Forecast Santa Monica, CA www.cew.org

19-22 Cosmopack 2015 at Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna Bologna, Italy www.cosmoprof.com

20-23 Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna 2015 Bologna, Italy www.cosmoprof.com

21-23 Face & Body Midwest Spa Conference and Expo 2015 Chicago www.faceandbody.com/midwest

april 2015 14-16 in-cosmetics 2015 Barcelona, Spain www.in-cosmetics.com

15-16 MakeUp in Seoul Seoul www.makeup-in-seoul.com

15-16 Luxe Pack Shanghai 2015 Shanghai www.luxepack.com

16-18 Intercharm Moscow www.intercharm.ru/en

may 2015 12-13 NYSCC Suppliers’ Day 2015 Edison, NJ www.nyscc.org/suppliers-day

13-14 Luxe Pack New York 2015 New York www.luxepacknewyork.com

www.GCImagazine.com

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Products and Services Showcase 45

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Products and sErVIcEs

showcase CONTRACT MANUFACTURING

CONTRACT MANUFACTURING HEALTH • BEAUTY • OTC • HOUSEHOLD PRODUCTS A TOTAL SERVICE – Formulation to Drop Shipping Long and Short Runs FDA-EPA Registered Visit our web site at www.ecometics.com 19 Concord St., So. Norwalk, CT 06854

ECOMETICS INC. 203-853-7856

to reserve space in this section, contact

Kim Jednachowski

kjednachowski@allured.com 1-630-344-6054

Tom Harris

tharris@allured.com 1-201-445-4702

Jane Evison

jane-evison@btconnect.com 44(0)-1430-441685

PACKAGING

Products and Services Showcase

GCI1503_PS Showcase_fcx.indd 46

GCI March 2015

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www

2015

PACKAGING

For quality custom reprints or e-prints, please contact:

Foster Printing Services 1-866-879-9144 sales@fosterprinting.com • www.fosterprinting.com

www.GCImagazine.com

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Ad Index The Advertiser Index is provided as an additional service for readers to obtain information on companies and their products. The publisher assumes no liability for omissions or errors.

Page

Advertiser

Phone

WEB SITE

American Society of Perfumers/Orchid Event

1-630-344-6023

www.perfumers.org

BASF

1-973-245-6000

www.carecreations.basf.com

Bioscreen Testing Services

1-310-214-0043

www.bioscreen.com

Biosil Technologies, Inc.

1-201-825-8800

www.biosiltech.com

Brookfield Engineering Labs, Inc.

1-508-946-6200

www.brookfieldengineering.com

Centerchem, Inc.

1-203-822-9800

www.centerchem.com

Classic Cosmetics, Inc

1-818-773-9042

www.classiccosmetics.com

Colt's Plastic Co., Inc,

1-800-222-2658

www.coltsplastics.com

Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit

1-630-653-2155

summit.CosmeticsandToiletries.com

Fusion Packaging

1-214-747-2004

www.fusionpkg.com

ICMAD/Reception at Cosmoprof

1-847-991-4499

www.icmad.org

Lipo Chemicals, Inc.

1-973-345-8600

www.lipochemicals.com

Lipotec, LLC

1-201-850-1213

www.lipotec.com

Luxe Pack New York

1-474-731-690

www.luxepack.com

Mane USA

1-973-633-5533

www.mane.com

Reed Exhibitions/in-cosmetics

44-208-910-7976

www.in-cosmetics.com

SCC California/Suppliers’ Day

1-212-668-1500

www.caliscc.org

SCC New York/Rheology Course

1-845-639-4045

www.nyscc.org

SCC New York/Suppliers' Day

1-201-750-9785

www.nyscc.org

SoGeCos/Cosmoprof Las Vegas

1-702-297-1060

www.cosmoprofnorthamerica.com

Spectra Colors Corp.

1-201-997-0606

www.spectracolors.com

Sun Deep Cosmetics, Inc.

1-800-985-2228

www.sundeepinc.com

The Beauty Company

1-202-686-4844

www.thebeautycompany.co

Tubes and Applicators

1-626-827-2039

www.tubesandapplicators.com

U.S. Nonwovens

1-631-952-0100

www.usnonwovens.com

Cover 4 38 Cover 2 3, 39 Cover 3

for advertising info Kim Jednachowski

Tom Harris

Jane Evison

Paige Crist

All US States Except NJ & PA kjednachowski@allured.com 1-630-344-6054

NJ & PA, Canada, Central & South America tharris@allured.com 1-201-445-4702

Europe & Asia jane-evison@btconnect.com 44-(0)-1430-441685

Fragrance pcrist@allured.com 1-630-730-9240

48 Ad Index GCI March 2015

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HIGH-QUALITY EMOLLIENT ROBUST and CONSISTENT COMPOSITION

SUSTAINABLE SOURCE

NATURALLY PRESENT IN THE SKIN

DERIVED FROM PLANT SUGAR

STABLE SUPPLY

PROVEN PERFORMANCE for SKIN CARE • Increases cell turnover • Reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles • Binds moisture

Exclusive North American Distributor 20 Glover Avenue, Norwalk, CT 06850 P: 203-822-9800 | F: 203-822-9820

cosmetics@centerchem.com www.centerchem.com

Note: Purchasers of Neossance Squalane are solely responsible for ensuring compliance of products and performance claims with applicable regulatory requirements.

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