Global Cosmetic Industry, GCI July-August

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CONTENTS JULY/AUGUST 2015

n VOLUME 183, NUMBER 6

features 16 Natural Skin Care Growth

Expansion and challenges ahead for emerging markets.

BY NICOLE TYRIMOU

18 Sustainable Amazonian Cosmetic and Fragrance Materials

Leveraging biodiversity, sustainable sourcing and modern processing technology to create new fragrance and cosmetic actives.

BY JEB GLEASON-ALLURED

26 What’s Influencing Latinas in the Beauty Aisle?

Understanding the beauty motivations of this crucial, booming consumer segment.

BY ALEENA ASTORGA ROESCHLEY

28 Sustainability for Packaging Success

Recovery, sourcing and optimization are the keys to implementing successful sustainability strategies for your packaging.

BY SARA MASON

38

The Indie Spirit of Urban Decay Maintaining an edge, post-acquisition.

BY NANCY JEFFRIES

42 Aspirational Consumers and the Environment Their impact on your success.

BY JENNIFER DONAHUE

departments 6 Beauty Insights: Innovations, ideas and insights 10 Brands and Benchmarks: New products, promotions and events

12 Fragrance Focus: News and launches 48 Packaging Innovations: New introductions, trends and insights

50 Main Ingredients: Ingredients and claims 53 Events: Industry calendar

resources 53 Products & Services Showcase 56 Advertiser Index

44 Breaking into the Salon/Spa Channel

Creating a lasting, profitable relationship with the professionals at the front line.

BY STEVE SLEEPER

columns 4 Starting Point: The Only Norm is Uniqueness

BY JEB GLEASON-ALLURED

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Contents

1

EDITORIAL Director Editor in Chief

Jo-El M. Grossman Jeb Gleason-Allured 1-630-344-6069/jallured@allured.com

ADVERTISING SALES Vice President Business Development Manager U.S. (NJ & PA), Canada, Central & South America Business Development Manager All U.S. states except NJ & PA Business Development Manager Europe & Asia Business Development Manager Fragrance Marketing Specialist Coordinator

Brian O’Rourke 1-630-344-6030/borourke@allured.com Tom Harris 1-201-445-4702/tharris@allured.com Kim Jednachowski 1-630-344-6054/kjednachowski@allured.com Jane Evison 44(0)-1430-441685/jane-evison@btconnect.com Paige Crist 1-630-344-6060/pcrist@allured.com Brittany Best 1-630-344-6076/bbest@allured.com Kasia Smialkowski 1-630-344-6025/ksmialkowski@allured.com

AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT Director Audience Marketing Specialist Customer Service

Linda Schmitt Marie Galvan 1-630-344-6027/mgalvan@allured.com 1-888-399-0899/customerservice@gcimagazine.com

DESIGN Manager Senior Graphic Designer Production Manager

Andy Frederick Hon Bannapradist Bryan Crowe

CORPORATE President Controller Group Show Director Digital Products Director Executive Assistant

Allured Business Media 1-630-653-2155 • fax 1-630-653-2192 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 USA www.Allured.com European Office: Jane Evison, East Yorkshire, England

Janet Ludwig Linda Getner Sandy Chapin Rose Southard Maria Romero

OTHER ALLURED PRODUCTS Alluredbooks Cosmetics & Toiletries Bench Reference Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine: Portuguese edition Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit Face & Body Spa Conference and Expo Flavorcon Perfumer & Flavorist magazine Skin Inc. magazine World Perfumery Congress

Global Cosmetic Industry (ISSN 1523-9470) is published ten times per year as Jan./Feb., March, April, May, June, July/Aug., Sept., Oct., Nov. and Dec. issues by Allured Business Media, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream IL 60188-2403 USA. Copyright 2015. Free subscriptions to Global Cosmetic Industry are available to qualified individuals. The publisher reserves the right to determine qualification of free subscriptions. Replacement issues are available only through single copy sales.

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Members of the American Business Media. All correspondence regarding business, editorial, advertising and production should be sent to Global Cosmetic Industry, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 USA. Allured Business Media makes all attempts to publish accurate information; however, this publication may contain technical inaccuracies or typographical errors. The reader assumes all risks concerning the suitability and accuracy of the information within this publication. Allured Business Media assumes no responsibility for and disclaims all liability for any such inaccuracies, errors or omissions in this publication and in other documents referred to within or affiliated with this publication. www.GCImagazine.com

2

Contents

GCI July/August 2015

STARTING

n BY JEB GLEASON-ALLURED

POINT

The Only Norm is Uniqueness

JEB GLEASON-ALLURED

Editor in Chief jallured@allured.com @GCI_Magazine

GCI MAGAZINE EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD ALISA MARIE BEYER

Coastal Salt & Soul

MARIE ALICE DIBON

Alice Communications, Inc.

ADA POLLA

Alchimie Forever, The Polla Beauty Group

ART RICH, PhD

A. Rich Development

RICK RUFFOLO

R4 Innovations

CRISTINA SAMUELS

Mode Cosmetics

LAURA SETZFAND Epiphany

4

Starting Point

T

he poet and playwright Edna St. Vincent Millay once wrote, “Beauty is whatever gives joy.” This is certainly more true now than at any time in recent memory.

As I write this column, rumors are swirling that MAC, or perhaps another beauty brand, will name Caitlyn Jenner as an official spokesperson. MAC has explicitly denied this as of press time. In the past, the brand has featured a diverse range of spokespeople, including RuPaul, K.D. Lang, Nicki Minaj and Elton John, and is certainly no stranger to inclusiveness.

The rumors surround MAC arrived in the wake of Jenner’s high-profile coming out as a trans woman, which involved an unprecedented multimedia effort comprising a 20/20 interview with Diane Sawyer, an upcoming eight-part documentary series, which will air in the United States on E!, a cover shoot and 22-page feature in Vanity Fair, and an entree into Twitter during which @Caitlyn_Jenner reached 1 million users in four hours—faster than President Obama’s @POTUS handle. (Publicist Alan Nierob of Rogers & Cowan handled Jenner’s overall media strategy—by all accounts a masterful execution—and likely has attracted more new business proposals than he can handle.)

Whether or not Jenner assumes the MAC spokesperson role or ever takes a similar role in the beauty industry, it is clear that face of beauty continues to expand to more fully reflect every type of human experience and background.

In 2014, Mexican-Kenyan Oscar-winning actress Lupita Nyong’o became a spokesperson for Lancôme, joining a lineage that in previous times included actresses such as Kate Winslet and Julia Roberts. In March of this year, L’Oreal Paris named its first Asian-American spokesperson, the Korean-American model Soo Joo Park. At the time of the announcement, Park told Style.com, “It’s such an honor, but I also think the world is getting smaller and the globalization of commerce is influencing industries like beauty and fashion.”

Certainly, Park is correct, but this is more than globalization. This is a growing acknowledgement that beauty has no single face or frame of reference. And citing a few examples of “firsts” hardly encompasses what is occurring or what is at stake.

During her GLAAD Vanguard Award acceptance speech in March in New York, “Scandal” actress Kerry Washington succinctly summed up the undercurrents of the present moment: “We must see each other, all of us; and we must see ourselves, all of us ... Until we are no longer firsts and exceptions and rare and unique. In the real world, being an ‘other’ is the norm.

In the real world, the only norm is uniqueness ...” n GCI

GCI July/August 2015

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BEAUTY INSIGHTS

& BREAKTHROUGHS Cosmetic Innovation Rebounds, NPD Takes Emotional Turn

Two recent studies highlight the cosmetic innovation pipeline and shifting consumer needs impacting new product development around the globe. What emerges is a confluence of technical progress and a growing focus on consumer emotional engagement.

In its study “IP and Science,” Thomson Reuters (thomsonreuters.com) analyzed the intellectual property data in 12 technology areas, including scientific literature and patents, and found the global pace of innovation slowed to its lowest level since the global recession in 2009. However, this suggests a possible rise in R&D growth in both the private sector and academic research institutions in the near future.

The total worldwide patent volume increased just 3% over 2014, according to the report, while the total volume of new scientific research decreased 23% over the same period.

Despite this slowed pace, the worldwide patent volume reached a record high—more than 2.1 million unique inventions were published. The industries showing the largest growth included food, tobacco and beverage fermentation (21%); pharmaceuticals (12%); cosmetics (8%); and biotechnology (7%). Another encouraging trend is the growing impact of open innovation across almost every industry studied, including cosmetics, effectively blurring traditional boundaries between industries’ and companies’ specializations.

The rise in technical innovation comes as a new Canadean (www.canadean.com) report explores the emotional and aspirational drivers behind consumers’ shifting priorities and preferences. The lead influencers, according to the report, include aspiration, convenience, and happiness and nostalgia.

Consumers will seek out brands that allow them “to appear sophisticated and knowledgeable,” according to Canadean, while gravitating toward time-saving and mobile products that fit into their busy lives. At the same time, today’s consumers will trade up to luxury and premium products if brands successfully tap into nostalgic impulses. Finally, new product development must take into account the consumer’s need to establish their individuality with their appearance, while deriving happiness from their brand/product experience.

Is There a

Birchbox

Effect?

Birchbox; Facebook

Consumers will purchase more beauty products online if they are first able to try the products. This is the conclusion of a recent analysis from Slice Intelligence (intelligence.slice.com). The report notes that Birchbox, Ulta.com and Sephora.com customers “spend more on beauty products.”

In fact, following their subscriptions, Birchbox customers increased their average beauty spend by 38%, compared to 5% and 6% for Ulta and Sephora, respectively.

According to Slice Intelligence, “The 32% of [Birchbox] subscribers that also buy products in the marketplace spent an average of $105.00, and ordered an average of 2.3 times.” This “cross-product loyalty” has boosted Birchbox’s business. Today, its marketplace and subscription sales are nearly equal, totaling $115 million and $120 million, respectively.

Prestige Beauty Takes Cautious Approach to E-Tailers A recent analysis from L2 (www.l2inc.com) reveals that prestige beauty brands are careful about their e-tail distribution. According to the report, most prestige brands present fewer than 20% of their offerings through third-party e-tailers in order to control the number and frequency of discounts offered.

For instance, L2 notes, “e-tailers send emails featuring promotions at 1.74x the rate of brands,” while “e-tailer emails offer percentages off products at 3.2x the rate of brands.” Discounted items may represent excess inventory and may not be presented on the brands’ own sites, according to the analysis.

6 Beauty Insights & Breakthroughs GCI July/August 2015

Cosmetic Science, Naturally.

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BEAUTY INSIGHTS

& BREAKTHROUGHS Asia-Pacific Growth Through 2020 and China’s Slowdown The Asia-Pacific cosmetics market—comprising Japan, China, India, South Korea, Singapore and Thailand—will expand at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 4.02%, reaching $126.8 billion by 2020, according to a new report from apacmarket.com. Japan remains the highest revenue-generating market in the region, comprising two sevenths of 2014’s cosmetics share, while forecasting CAGR through 2020 of 2.7%. Meanwhile, an analysis from L2 (www.l2inc.com) notes that China’s economic slowdown has changed consumer behavior in the personal care sector.

A number of leading brands have worked to capture the growth in Asia Pacific, including players such as Biotique, L’Oréal, Avon, Procter & Gamble, Unilever, Oriflame Cosmetics, Revlon, Kao, Estee Lauder and Shiseido. These brands will continue to pursue growth through product launches and expansions in the region that capitalize on key consumer trends.

Men Boosting Cosmetics Men currently account for 19% of the revenue share of the Asia Pacific cosmetics market, according to apacmarket.com’s report, and represent the fastest-growing user segment of cosmetics, registering a CAGR of 9.2% through 2020. In fact, rising adoption of cosmetic products among men in China, India and Japan is creating new growth in the region.

Men play a significant role in the skin care and sun care product categories, which represent three sevenths of the cosmetics sector and comprise the largest revenue share of the market. While women dominate color cosmetics sales, men and women alike are driving sun and skin care sales across all countries in the region. As a result, skin and sun care will increase their share of the cosmetics sector through 2020.

The most popular product categories among Asia Pacific men are shampoos, conditioners, hair styling creams and gel, hair color, moisturizing lotions, facial wipes, deodorants and fragrances. Recent launches aimed toward men detailed in the apacmarket.com report include Himalaya’s Intense Oil Clear Lemon Face Wash, in the skin care category in India.

The Appeal of Natural and Organic Cosmetics This increase in Asia Pacific cosmetics sales reflects an overall rise in consumers’ awareness of personal appearance, and corresponds to a rise in disposable incomes. Simultaneously, Asia Pacific consumers have become increasingly aware of organic products. Brands such as Himalaya, Biotique and Skin Food have stepped in to meet this demand.

Cosmetic Sales Channels Supermarkets are the dominant sales channels in the region and, to a lesser extent, multi-brand and standalone stores, according to the apacmarket.com report. However, online cosmetic sales platforms in Asia Pacific are forecast to grow at a CAGR of 10.3% through 2020.

What China’s Slowdown Means for Personal Care The People’s Bank of China recently lowered its national economic growth forecast from 7.1% to 7.0% for 2015. While the country’s economic slowdown hasn’t stopped growth in the personal care sector, it has changed consumer behavior, according to a recent report from digital intelligence firm L2. It has also necessitated a renewed focus on e-commerce, particularly mobile platforms.

Shifting Habits Chinese consumers have pursued less expensive local brands, leading to a 5% decline in foreign brand share in the skin care, color cosmetic and oral care categories. The L2 report notes that local brands pair lower costs with innovation that “mimics” that of global players. These local brands also benefit from access to state media advertising.

E-commerce Competition Mobile commerce in China represents a 1 trillion RMB/$150 billion spend, driven by digital outlets such as Alibaba (www.alibaba.com), WeChat (www.wechat.com) and Jingdong (www.jd.com).

Local brands are winning in some, but not all, aspects of China’s booming e-commerce market, according to L2. In particular, Chinese brands outperform their global counterparts in aspects such as monthly sales, user reviews, search visibility and product availability.

Mobile-optimized, Country-specific Mobile commerce is crucial, accounting for 20% of total e-commerce in China, according to the L2 report. This share is growing rapidly, and will reach about 50% by 2016. Still, local brands have underexploited mobile sites, while global brands have widely adopted them.

Though most global brands maintain country-specific websites for China, few are regularly maintained or updated. Most of these Chinese sites are hosted outside the country, adding to load times.

This presents a vast advantage to multinationals hosting sites within China, as well as local brands.

The L2 report notes that 57% of personal care searches online via Baidu (www.baidu.com) are coming from mobile. Just 17% of firstpage results from Baidu mobile searches are brand-owned, compared to 21% of first-page results located via desktop search. Among the 400 most popular category term searches, only 20% of brands show up in the top 30 results.

According to L2, brands are using the popular WeChat messaging app, but are underutilizing engagement tools such as in-app navigation, swipe/touch/shake functionality, games, brand forums and sampling. Additionally, brands that use WeChat often neglect to publicize live chat hours of availability.

Capturing ongoing growth in China and the wider Asia Pacific region will require global and local brands to optimize their offerings for local consumers, while upping their e- and mobile-commerce games.

8 Beauty Insights & Breakthroughs GCI July/August 2015

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Brands & Benchmarks

new products, promotions and events

CEW 2015 Beauty Award Winners Announced The CEW recently unveiled its 2015 Beauty Awards winners at its annual ceremony at the Waldorf Astoria in New York, hosted by Aisha Tyler. The winners are: Acne Treatment: Estée Lauder Clear Difference Targeted Blemish Treatment

Hair Style/Hair Care: Living Proof Instant Texture Mist

Anti-Aging Mass: La Roche-Posay Pigmentclar Dark Spot Correcting Serum

Iconic Beauty Award Mass: Crest 3D White Whitestrips

Hair Tools: T3 Whirl Trio Interchangeable Barrel Styling Wand Iconic Beauty Award Prestige: Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex

Anti-Aging Prestige: Shiseido Cosmetics America Ultimune Power Infusing Concentrate

Indie Brand Beauty Award: Nudestix Nudestix

Bath and Body Mass: Jergens BB Body Perfecting Skin Cream

Lip Product Mass: Sonia Kashuk Dewy Luxe Lip & Cheek Balm

Bath and Body Prestige: Urban Decay Naked Skin Body Beauty Balm

Lip Product Prestige: Dior Addict Fluid Stick Lip Treatment: Dior Addict Fluid Stick

Cleanser and Scrub: GLAMGLOW Powermud Dualcleanse Treatment Eco Beauty Products: COOLA Suncare COOLA Suncare Marula | Pure Beauty Oil Marula | Pure Beauty Oil Eye Mass Product: FLOWER Eye 2 Eye Eye Marker & Volumizing Mascara

Men’s Grooming: LAB SERIES Skincare for Men Age Rescue+ Water-Charged Gel Cream Men’s Scent: Dior Homme Eau for Men Moisturizer Mass: Laneige Water Sleeping Mask Moisturizer Prestige: GLAMGLOW Thirstymud Hydrating Treatment

Eye Product Prestige: Lancôme Grandiôse Mascara

Most Buzzed About Mass: L’Oréal Paris Advanced Suncare Quick Dry Sheer Finish Spray SPF 50+

Eye Treatment Mass: L’Oréal Paris Revitalift Miracle Blur Instant Eye Smoother Eye Treatment Prestige: Shiseido Cosmetics America Benefiance Wrinkleresist24 Pure Retinol Express Smoothing Eye Mask Face Product Mass: Laneige BB Cushion Face Product Prestige: Charlotte Tilbury Wonderglow Instant Soft-Focus Beauty Flash Primer Hair Coloring Product: L’Oréal Paris Superior Preference Mousse Absolue

Most Buzzed About Prestige: Lancôme Grandiôse Mascara Nail Product: Coty Inc. Sally Hansen Miracle Gel Skin Care Tools: FOREO Luna T-Sonic Cleansing and Anti-Aging System Sun Product: Shiseido Cosmetics America Ultimate Sun Protection Spray SPF 50+ Women’s Mass Scent Mass: Coty Inc. Love 2 Love Jasmine + Sparkling Mimosa

Hair Shampoo/Hair Conditioner: Living Proof Curl Conditioning Wash

Women’s Scent Prestige: Coty Inc. Marc Jacobs Daisy Dream

Emmaus Beauty

Emmaus Beauty has launched a three-step system for the skin. The system comprises plant stem cells from Egyptian blue lily, bluebird hibiscus, red flower silk cotton and arabica leaf, as well as glycolic and salicylic acids that target uneven and rough skin, and baobab, coconut, grape seed and sunflower seed oils that impart moisture. The system includes Smiling Beads Body Wash ($60.00, 10 oz), Touch of Love Mini Towels ($70, .33 fl. oz. per towel/10 towels per box) embedded with active ingredients such as glycolic and salicylic acid, and Softness Bliss Body Lotion ($65.00, 10 oz), which includes oils to nourish the skin. emmausbeauty.com

Skin Care for All Skin Types

Amyris has launched Biossance The Revitalizer, a multi-purpose skin care product that is paraben-free, noncomedogenic, hypoallergenic and suitable for all skin types.

The product contains Amyris’ Neossance squalane derived from sustainable sugarcane, which is effective for dry skin patches and can be used on cuticles, as a make-up booster and as a hair serum for added shine. The product is available in a 50-ml bottle and sold at www.biossance.com, with future availability planned through several major retail distribution channels. An expanded line of several other Biossance products will be available in late 2015. www.amyris.com

Amyris

Smooth and Glowing Skin

10 Brands & Benchmarks GCI July/August 2015

New Hair Colors

Skin Tone App

TECHKON

TECHKON has introduced a technology that captures real colors with mobile devices, allowing consumers to match with products displayed on their smartphones, such as makeup foundations, and make purchases.

The user places the credit-card-sized ColorChart first on the forehead and captures the chart with the app-integrated camera mode. The same procedure is repeated with the cheek and the chin.

The app then generates an accurate color value which corresponds to the right cosmetic product. Harmonizing colors or products, and further functions such as online ordering and social sharing, can be embedded. www.catchyourskintone.com

Affinage has added eight shades to its permanent hair color line.

The shades—Cool Arctic Breeze (12.771), Golden Wheat (9.03), Apricot Blush (9.145), Strawberry Blonde (9.026), Autumn Rust (7.51), Cool Ruby (6.61), Velvet Rose (5.727) and Cool Crimson (4.61)—are being promoted as a kit (suggested salon cost, $54.55), as well as open stock (100-ml tube for the suggested salon cost of $6.50). The Opulence Collection Kit features all eight colors, a 10-volume crème developer, a 20-volume crème developer, one mini shade guide and five brochures.

Each color tube contains more than 90% naturally derived ingredients and DATEM PLUS encapsulation technology for color and oxygen delivery to the hair. The conditioning emulsion cream base is formulated with shea butter and argan oil for added protection, suppleness and shine. www.affinage.com

Affinage

Lady Burd Cosmetics has launched its luxury crème lipsticks, which soften and protect as they deliver color. The lipsticks also include castor oil to give shine to the lips and saturate color, carnauba wax to moisturize, soften and increase the skin’s hydration, and vitamin E for antioxidant and moisturizing activity. www.ladyburd.com

Lady Burd Cosmetics

Moisturizing Lipsticks

kō Denmark had introduced its Anti-aging Avocado & Jojoba Face Serum, which has earned a Healing Lifestyle & Spa Earth Day Beauty Award. The serum, which includes avocado oil rich in omega-3 fatty acids, moisturizes and calms skin and smooths the appearance of fine lines. The product also comprises jasmine, neroli and rose flower oils. The product retails for $45.00 (1 fl. oz.). kodenmark.com

_ kO Denmark

anti-aging Avocado & Jojoba Face Serum

Age Intervention

Biogenix has launched Stemcell-C, an anti-aging serum for “aggressive” wrinkle reduction for younger-looking skin. The product comprises a patented phyto stem cell extract of comfrey root, a medicinal herb. The root cells reportedly speed human cellular renewal through epidermal stem cell activation. Stemcell-C also contains a tripeptide to reduce wrinkles and prevent wrinkle formation, and ethyl ascorbic acid vitamin C, ferulic acid and vitamin E for neutralization of free radicals and collagen synthesis. www.biogenixsc.com www.GCImagazine.com

Brands & Benchmarks 11

News about the Fragrance industry

Sorbet and Freesia among 2016 Scent trends Freesia, iced fruits, gourmand notes and natural simplicity will lead fragrance trends moving into 2016, according to the findings of Seven Scent’s new global trends forecast (www.sevenscent.co.uk). The fragrance house identified three fragrance notes set to take off in the spring-summer of 2016: Praline: Continuing the trend for gourmand scents, this modern accord adds a soft caramel-chocolate note and creamy, nutty complexity. This is the ideal pairing for fresh, fruity accents, according to Seven Scent.

Sorbets: This trend represents a refreshing sensation of iced fruits and sugary accents to create a cooling energy in compositions.

Freesia: Florals are making a comeback, meaning delicate freesia is set to have a high profile. This scent delivers a subtle, citrusy note, while its refreshing character is enhanced by a positive woody piquancy.

In addition, Seven Scent expects to see two other trends emerge in 2016.

Linear Landscapes: This trend comprises aromatic, woody notes that blend with leathery notes and creamy, soft cashmere to evoke a natural simplicity.

Print Pop: This trend evokes vibrant and bold, fruity characteristics with accents of cool mint and gentle florals that will create signature scents with a twist.

Miri Scott, an insight manager for Seven Scent, says the emphasis on sugary notes, in the context of the strong consumer retro revival, is the driving trend behind a number of fragrances for Imperial Leather’s new “Sweets” range of shower creams. The sweets range features confectionery fragrances, including:

L’Oreal (Clichy, France), which recently acquired cosmetics house Niely, today announced the signature of a license agreement with Proenza Schouler for the creation and development of fine fragrances.

The move adds to L’Oreal Luxe’s Designer Brands Fragrances’ portfolio, which includes Cacharel, Diesel, Maison Margiela and Viktor&Rolf. The fashion house previously created a limited edition collection for MAC. Burberry will distribute its fragrances and makeup products in Japan via Shiseido (Tokyo). Burberry bought its fragrance license back from Inter Parfums in 2012. Previously, Shiseido had been the sole distributor of Burberry fragrances in several countries through its Paris-based fragrance subsidiary, Beauté Prestige International, which has also partnered with licenses such as Ferragamo. Shiseido notes that the brand’s licensed products will be replaced with the Burberry global product range, including its heritage trench coats and scarves.

Shiseido will support the launch of this fragrance starting at Hankyu department store Umeda main store (Osaka), Hankyu online store, five standalone Burberry stores and 13 Burberry concessions across major cities in Japan, followed by further points of sale, mainly in department stores. This autumn, new Burberry Beauty Box counters will be opened within a select number of department stores across Japan. The will be the first of their kind located within a department store. The counters will offer customers an innovative new gifting experience, carrying color cosmetics and fragrance, alongside other gifting items, giving even wider variety and choice. The first two counters will launch later this year in Tokyo and Osaka.

International Flavors & Fragrances, Inc. has announced the publication of its 2014 sustainability report (www.iff.com), Cultivating the Future. The report details the company’s strategic initiatives that strengthen corporate, social and environmental responsibility throughout the organization for the calendar year 2014. During the period the company surpassed its 2020 water reduction goal by 50%, completed the installation of solar panels at select sites and institutuionalized its commitment to the 12 Principles of Green Chemistry.

• Comforting Marshmallow: a sweet and gentle scent to pamper and soothe.

• Uplifting Sherbet Lemon: zingy and zesty citrus notes to refresh and revive.

• Mouth-watering Fruit Salad: tropical, fruity aromas reminiscent of childhood summers.

• Stimulating Spearmint: cool green mint blends with a hint of sweetness to awaken and invigorate.

CPL Aromas has opened its new production facility in Dubai. The 10,000-square-meter site automated site will allow the company to eliminate importations of fragrance from outside the Middle East and North Africa (MENA). According to Euromonitor, the market for finished fragrances in the MENA region was worth $4.9 billion in 2014, with significant growth expected.

Inspired by Botanicals

Sensual Gourmand

Thymes Bath & Body

Thymes Bath & Body has added new scents to its botanically inspired Thymes Studio Collection Fragrances.

The latest launches include Mirabelle Plum, a “juicy fragrance”; and Tupelo Lemongrass, a citrus fragrance; Goldleaf Gardenia, a modern take on a floral classic. In addition, the premium bath and body gift sets comprising top-selling and exclusive products featuring scents such as Eucalyptus, Lavender and Goldleaf.

Prices range from $4.00 to $60.00; products are available at specialty retailers and www.thymes.com.

NEWS

MY KIÖRI has launched its first scent, KIÖRI Natural Perfume Oil. The new scent includes notes of vanilla, patchouli and other ingredients “known for their aphrodisiac properties.” The scent is contained in a portable rollerball bottle and retails for $48 for 1/8 oz and $78 for 1/4 oz. The fragrance is available at specialty retail stores. mykiori.com

MY KIÖRI

FRAGRANCE FOCUS

12 Fragrance Focus GCI July/August 2015

FRAGRANCE FOCUS Hayari Collection

Caribbean- and Moroccan-inspired Fragrances

Fashion photographer Christophe Jouany has launched Jouany Perfumes. Saint Barthelemy, inspired by his hometown in the Caribbean, features notes of grapefruit, vanilla, cedarwood, patchouli, sandalwood and vetiver. Marrakech, inspired by the Moroccan city, includes notes of citrus, orange blossom, jasmine, neroli, patchouli and white musk. The scents, made in France, retail for $125.00 for 1.7 oz and are available at Henri Bendel and CO Bigelow in New York, beautyhabit.com, and other outlets. www.jouany.com

Absolute-infused Fragrance

Pascal Rolland, founder of the Liquoristerie de Provence, has launched Absolument Absinthe, a collection of fragrances, including Absolument Absinthe, Absolument Femme, Absolument Homme, 13th Note Femme and 13th Note Homme. The scents, packaged in recycled cotton that evokes the effect of leather, are now available in the United States and Canada. The scents retail for $155 for 3.4 oz. absolument.net

Ever Bloom Goes Global

Shiseido will launch Ever Bloom in Europe and the Middle East in October. The scent will be available in a variety of four products and six varieties, including eau de parfum and body cream that will retail from €37 to €105. In January 2016, Ever Bloom’s Parfum Extrait Absolu, will be available at retail for €188 per bottle. The fragrance was inspired by a photograph by Roso Fukuhara showing “a single camellia flower, lissome but imperious like a beautiful woman, which led to the creation of a fragrance that is a perfect fusion of delicacy and sensuality.” www.shiseido.com

Save the date!

Fragrances for a Cause

June 13–15, 2016 Fontainebleau Resort Miami Beach, FL USA Produced by:

Pour Le Monde Parfums

Pour Le Monde Parfums has launched its range of natural prestige fragrances, which are free of phthalates, petrochemicals, synthetic fragrances and dyes. The products are vegan and certified by the Natural Products Association.

Each eau de parfum in the collection benefits a correlating charity. Empower features citrus notes of lemon, lime, bergamot, orange, mandarin and grapefruit, as well as spearmint, basil, cedarwood and patchouli; Together is a floral scent comprising notes of lemon, jasmine, freesia, vanilla, balsam and patchouli; and Envision includes notes of bergamot, orange, pink peppercorn, lavender and vanilla. The scents retail for $82 for 1.7 fl. oz./50 ml. www.plmparfums.com

Jouany Perfumes

Nabil Hayari

The couture house of Nabil Hayari has launched a collection of three exclusive Hayari fragrances in the United States. Each scent, Goldy, Only for Her and Broderie, is numbered and bottled in faceted flacons, capped with glass dome toppers. Etched on the front of each flacon is a gold “H” ribbon logo.

The fragrances are presented in flip-open boxes that mimic a blossoming flower.

Only for Her (1.7 oz, SRP $145) is a feminine scent created by Robertet’s Sidonie Lancesseur. The fragrance comprises notes of grapefruit, Egyptian jasmine, peony and magnolia, sandalwood, patchouli and vanilla. Goldy Perfume (1.7 oz, SRP $145), formulated

by Robertet’s Dorothee Piot, is warm, powdery and woody, comprising notes of jasmine, orange blossom, sandalwood, musk and cedar. Broderie (1.7 oz, SRP $145), formulated by Lancesseur, includes feminine and elegant impressions and notes of sandalwood amber and patchouli. www.hayariparis.com

Presented by:

Registration Opens in October! wpc.perfumerflavorist.com/register

14 Fragrance Focus GCI July/August 2015

MARKET INSIGHTS

Expansion and challenges ahead for emerging markets.

IMPACT POINTS n

n

16

Natural/organic brands need more than just their natural credentials to attract consumers’ attention.

When looking at the number of consumers who revealed that they look for natural/organic benefits in their skin care by country—beyond the usual suspect of Germany— India, Indonesia and China scored the highest.

n

While there is an opportunity for natural/organic players in these emerging markets, pricing remains an issue with international players looking to explore the burgeoning middle class rather than the average consumer.

n

Plant extracts or herbal ingredients are usually favored by Chinese consumers, as they are deemed less hazardous than purely synthetic ingredients.

Market Insights

BY NICOLE TYRIMOU

W

hile natural cosmetics have been growing in popularity, and certain brands are performing well across Western Europe, the vast availability of natural-positioned brands makes it hard for individual brands to gain significant share of the overall market.

This has been the result of not only fierce competition among the increasing number of niche natural brands, but also major multinationals launching natural lines and retailers bringing out natural private label alternatives to their portfolios. For example, Boots in the U.K. and DM in Germany have had natural skin care lines for many years.

In Euromonitor International’s online survey on personal appearance, more than a third of consumers across 16 markets claimed that natural/organic was a key influencer in their skin care purchasing

decisions, while nearly 40% of them chose super-high quality as the most influential reason. The success of brands, such as Caudalie, which has climbed the ranks in competitive premium skin care in France by combining natural positioning with science and pharmacy credibility, exemplifies this.

As a result, natural/organic brands need more than just their natural credentials to attract consumers’ attention. Many have already launched more sophisticated products, like anti-aging and serums with strong claims.

Consumer Demand in Asia When looking at the number of consumers who revealed that they look for natural/ organic benefits in their skin care by country—beyond the usual suspect of

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GCI July/August 2015

Germany—India, Indonesia and China scored the highest, with more than half of the correspondents seeking natural skin care in some cases. With China and India having a history of local skin care remedies that include medicinal and natural ingredients, it is unsurprising.

As the survey was conducted online, the correspondents from these markets were from the higher respective income groups. In fact, out of the consumers that indicated that natural/organic claims were an important factor when buying skin care products, more than 80% earn more than China’s average disposable income per capita, which was at $4,652 in 2014.

Growth Ahead for India and Indonesia A similar story was seen in India, which has the lowest average disposable income from the group, and Indonesia. This indicates that, while there is an opportunity for natural/organic players in these emerging markets, pricing remains an issue with international players looking to explore the burgeoning middle class rather than the average consumer.

While all three markets are massdominated, Indonesia will be the eighth biggest absolute growth contributor to

www.GCImagazine.com

premium skin care over the 2014–2019 period. India will almost double its size to just over $140 million in 2019.

Despite India and Indonesia remaining niche in premium, their favorable demographics of vast populations and increasing disposable incomes, coupled with a relatively unexplored market, create an attractive environment for lower-end premium players.

China Ascending China undisputedly holds the strongest opportunities, as it will be the source of more than 60% of premium skin care’s growth to 2019, surpassing Japan to become Asia’s biggest premium market. Plant extracts or herbal ingredients are usually favored by Chinese consumers, as they are deemed less hazardous than purely synthetic ingredients.

Local brands, including Inoherb and Herborist, have benefited from such a consumption trend. Herborist was in the global top 10 fastest-growing brands in 2014, with 17% growth, and has continued its expansion outside China by entering the United Kingdom through feelunique.com, while it is also present in France, Italy and Germany through Douglas and Sephora.

In China, lower-priced premium natural brands, such as L’Occitane, are growing

strongly in the market, with this brand doubling its share in skin care since 2009 to reach 18% in 2014. The world’s fastestgrowing skin care brand in 2014, Innisfree, grew by an impressive 300% to reach a value of $80 million after just three years of presence in the Chinese market.

The brand’s strong innovation focus, high perceived quality by consumers, Korean brand image, affordability and natural positioning appears to be a winning combination for Chinese consumers.

Innisfree is also looking to enter India with its own stores.

While natural credentials remain attractive to consumers around the world, for brands to succeed in both emerging and mature markets, they must be perceived as being of high quality, have a strong image and remain relatively affordable to the average consumer.

In the promising markets of India, Indonesia and China, standalone presence (a strategy adopted in these markets by not only L’Occitane, but Herborist and Innisfree as well) and a wide skin care portfolio are also important in order to compete with both the local/regional players and the internationals. n GCI

Nicole Tyrimou is an analyst for beauty and personal care at Euromintor International. She can be reached at nicole.tyrimou@euromonitor.com.

Market Insights 17

natural ingredients

Sustainable Amazonian Cosmetic and Fragrance Materials Leveraging biodiversity, sustainable sourcing and modern processing technology to create new fragrance and and cosmetic actives.

BY JEB GLEASON-ALLURED, EDITOR IN CHIEF

I

n the last decade, Brazil became the top market for fragrance and deodorants, and a top-five leader in the hair care, men’s and children’s personal care, bath products, depilatories, sun care, makeup, nail care, oral care and skin care segments. The country’s status as a beauty and personal care juggernaut is apt, considering its rich biodiversity heritage, which recently intersected with 21st century technology to produce novel fragrance materials and cosmetic actives for global brands.

New Ingredient Production Site aT a GlanCe: serVInG braZIl’s beauTY MarKeT Despite recent economic issues, Brazil continues to be a significant fragrance, cosmetic and detergent market. Euromonitor (www.euromonitor.com) has forecasted the country’s beauty and personal care market to grow at a CAGR of 7% through 2016, with hair care and fragrances combined comprising 37% of the market value. Hair conditioning products are particularly sought-after in Brazil’s hot, humid climate.

Symrise’s São Paulo creative center is designed to service this vast, unique market. The site houses a mint lab for oral care, evaluation spaces for hair and home care, a soap bar lab (95% of the soap sold in Brazil is in bar form) and a fragrance lab. The São Paulo creative center includes a facility for assessing and supporting claims such as restoration and elasticity of hair, and appraising the penetration of actives. The company assesses formulations’ impact on frizz for the country’s diverse range of hair types. Its stability lab, meanwhile, can test sun care claims.

18

Natural Ingredients

Symrise (Holzminden, Germany), which expanded its presence in Brazil in recent years, has opened a new cosmetic and fragrance ingredient production facility in Belém, Pará, in the Brazilian Amazon.

Housed adjacent to a Natura bar soap facility, the site will process local natural materials harvested from among the regional biodiversity by local communities.

Symrise invested more than €5 million in the production plant on an area of 2,000 square meters. The site will process local botanical materials using technology such as the company’s SymTrap cold extraction system to yield oils and butters, as well as fragrance materials.

The site includes an administrative area, production site and analytical lab. Symrise

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GCI July/August 2015

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natural ingredients notes that it will bring its existing production in the south of the country north to Belém.

Processing is already underway at the new facility and will be expanded out over three phases. Compounding will also take place on the site.

The Symrise facility, housed in a local site called the “Ecoparque,” is the latest expansion in sustainable beauty development in the area and integrates sustainability aspects along the entire value chain, from sourcing and production to the social and economic development of the region. The Ecoparque employs “ecological industrialization” by using geothermal technology for air conditioning and leveraging the site’s garden and lagoon system to filter and treat effluents. The filtration scheme has a water capacity of 130 m3 and ensures that no water waste is sent to municipal facilities. In addition, Symrise repurposes spent biomass for fertilizer.

The company’s São Paulo creative center is constructed with similar values. That site includes 20,000 square meters of forest that is being restored to its natural state.

Building a Sustainable Business During the facility’s opening ceremony, Natura CEO Roberto Lima noted that Symrise was its first Ecoparque partner.

Natura has so far invested R$217 million in the Ecoparque, which Lima said will support its efforts toward building a sustainable business.

Looking ahead, Lima noted that Natura hopes to generate R$1 billion for local

communities through 2020.

By 2050, Natura and its partners hope to further grow Amazon-sourced and -produced ingredients and beauty products to bring more value to the region.

Achim Daub, president of Symrise’s Scent & Care division, noted that Symrise’s Amazon program combines science, innovation, local entrepreneurship, and a focus on sustaining the environment and regional Cupuaçu can be applied to skin moisturizers and hair care products. cultures. The goal, he said, is to support customers to improve consumers’ lives and increase are needed for such co-operations and use the cosmetic and fragrance palette with the insights around the world to combine new natural materials derived via green sustainability and economic success.” chemistry and CO2 extraction. Finally, the In addition to establishing an ethical Symrise Ecoparque project will allow it to sourcing business, Symrise recently donated respond to consumers’ growing interest a medical boat to the local communities to in knowing more about ingredients and improve access to health care. More than sources.

2,000 families in the area will reportedly “At this facility, we intend to bring the benefit from the cultivation and harvest of richness of the Amazon rain forest to the the Amazonian natural raw materials. world’s beauty consumers,” said Daub.

“This is an important step to sustainably developing and producing ingredients for cosmetics and fragrances.”

The Amazon Rainforest spans 2.124 million “Symrise appreciates how Natura works square miles, primarily in Brazil, Colombia, in the Ecoparque and thus contributes to Peru and the East Andes. Brazil, which regional social and economic improvement,” comprises the vast majority of the Amazon said Ricardo Omori, president of Scent & basin, is reportedly the most biodiverse Care LatAm at Symrise. “That is why we country on the planet, boasting as many as decided to partner with them on this project.

56,000 plant species.

We will learn what fundamental elements The country’s rich biodiversity has

Brazilian botanicals, from left: cacao, maracujá (passion fruit seeds), andiroba, castanha-do-Pará (Brazil nut), buriti, cupuaçu and murumuru.

Easing Access to Rich Biodiversity

already yielded significant numbers of pharmaceuticals. And, now, the beauty and fragrance industries are leveraging these same natural resources to provide new, innovative naturals to global consumers.

The prospects for innovation are high as, according to the Save the Amazon Coalition, less than 1% of these plants have been properly studied by scientists. Yet there are significant threats ahead.

In recent decades, the Amazon rainforest has lost about 19% of its total surface area, or 760,000 square kilometers.

Industries such as cattle ranching, small- and large-scale agriculture, and logging have made the largest impacts on deforestation. Governments and consumers have taken notice.

“Already more than 80% of consumers expect companies to take action [on]

20 Natural Ingredients GCI July/August 2015

The Ecoparque, occupied by Symrise and Natura, employs “ecological industrialization” by using geothermal technology for air conditioning, while also using the site’s garden and lagoon system (pictured) to filter effluents.

biodiversity and provide more information,” notes a recent report from the Union for Ethical BioTrade (UEBT; ethicalbiotrade.org). “Yet, only 60% of the top 100 food and beverage companies, and 36% of beauty companies mention biodiversity in their annual reporting.”

The report adds, “According to UEBT research, consumers start to identify some companies already with respect for biodiversity, for example Natura Cosmetics in Brazil.”

Brazil has historically limited access to biodiversity for industrial R&D purposes, in part to stem deforestation. However, the government recently made changes to its regulations in order to foster innovation around Brazilian natural products while supporting environmental sustainability and the wellbeing of local communities.

In May, Brazil’s President Dilma Rousseff signed PL 7735/2014 into law, effectively easing access to “genetic resources,” providing protection of “traditional knowledge,” and boosting sustainable use of biodiversity and fair distribution of benefits to local communities. The framework encompasses research, development and commercialization of food and cosmetic ingredients derived from the country’s rich biodiversity. www.GCImagazine.com

Symrise works with local communities, including the Jauari Association (pictured) on the Moju River, to sustainably harvest wild-grown botanicals that are later processed at the new Symrise facility in Belém. Achim Daub, president of Symrise’s Scent & Care division, stands at center in green shirt; to his right stands Ferdinando Srado, industrial manager of the Ecoparque, and Eder Ramos, regional president of Scent & Care at Symrise in LatAm. In red, to Daub’s far right, stands Ricardo Omori, Symrise’s president of fragrance in LatAm. Natural Ingredients 21

natural ingredients

Açaí (Euterpe oleracea ) Perhaps the most famous of the Amazonian botanicals, the fruit of this palm tree is rich in antioxidants and vitamins, as well as palmitic, stearic, oleic, vaccenic and linoleic acid. It can be applied to shampoos, hair creams, skin moisturizers and soaps.

Andiroba (Carapa guianensis )

The new Symrise facility will increase its cosmetic and fragrance ingredient palette with new natural materials derived via green chemistry and CO2 extraction.

The “almond” of the andiroba tree contains oil that comprises olein, palmitine and glycerin. It possesses anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and insect-repellant properties. The oil can be applied to skin and hair moisturizers to impart shine and softness. Symrise has applied andiroba oil in an aftershave for healing and antiinflammatory effects.

Bacurí (Platonia insignis ) The fruit of this tree can be processed to create a butter that softens skin and reportedly removes spots. According to a paper by Boulanger et al., the fruit contains “linalol and related compounds, linalol furanoxides and pyranoxides, hotrienol and several dimethyl-octadiendiols.”1 In a fragrance, a SymTrap version of the fruit was applied to a scent dubbed Dima di Noche.

Brazil Nut, or Castanha-do-Pará

“At this facility, we intend to bring the richness of the Amazon rain forest to the world’s beauty consumers,” said Achim Daub, president of Symrise’s Scent & Care division.

The rules remove a previous authorization requirement for accessing biodiversity for research and development. Now, companies will merely log into an online database to register projects. Meanwhile, a national trust fund will address benefits sharing directly with final product manufacturers to simplify bureaucracies.

Gathering Amazonian Botanicals In order to “bring the beauty of the region to the world,” as Daub puts it, Symrise

works with local communities, including the Jauari Association, to sustainably harvest wild-grown botanicals that are later processed at the new Symrise facility in Belém. (Natura has been working with local communities in a similar fashion for the last seven years.) Locals share in the benefits in an equitable manner.

During a recent visit to the Jauari community and Symrise’s new facility, local experts and the company’s team showed off a number of unique local botanicals:

The vitamin E-rich oil of the Brazil nut possesses moisturizing and conditioning properties and can be applied to skin and hair care products. Symrise has produced a SymTrap version of this material, which is true to the fruit. The ingredient is in the research phase and is being gradually scaled up.

Buriti (Mauritia flexuosa ) The fruit pulp of this palm tree contains carotenoids and tocopherols and possesses antioxidant and moisturizing capabilities.

The oil of the plant can be applied in facial cleansers and moisturizers, body and hair care, and sunscreens.

Cacau This popular botanical, useful in chocolate, can be processed to create a butter that is

22 Natural Ingredients GCI July/August 2015

natural ingredients rich in antioxidants and vitamins E and A. Symrise demoed the material in a moisturizing “chocolate mousse.”

Cupuaçu (Theobroma grandiflorum ) The pulp of this tree’s fruit can be cold-pressed to produce a butter that contains palmitic, stearic and oleic acids, and can be applied to skin moisturizers and hair care products. Symrise has applied cupuaçu and murumuru (see below) in a body butter for moisturizing effects.

Murumuru (Astrocaryum murumuru )

Brazil is a top-five leader in hair care. In the country’s hot, humid climate, anti-frizz solutions are crucial; pictured is a testing salon at Symrise’s São Paulo creative center.

The seeds of this palm can be processed into a yellow-white butter that contains oleic acid and vitamins. The ingredient can provide moisturization for the skin and lips and protect and soften hair in products such as soaps and shampoos. In hot, humid climates such as northern Brazil, murumuru, which has a pleasant fruit scent, decreases hair frizz.

Passion fruit (Passiflora edulis ), or Maracujá The seeds of this well-known fruit possess an oil that has antiinflammatory properties and can be applied to dry-skin and dryscalp hair care products.

Ucuúba ( Virola surinamensis ) The seeds of this tree can yield a butter that contains significant percentages of myristic, palmitic and lauric acid. It can be applied to cosmetics for the repair of damaged hair, hydration of skin or as an animal fat alternative in soaps.

Symrise is already exploring local flowers and roots as potential new sources of fragrance materials and cosmetic actives, so more new ingredients could be on the way, ensuring a new phase of sustainable development for the region, its inhabitants and the industry. n GCI References 1. R Boulanger, D Chassagne and J Crouzet, Flavour Fragr J, 14(5), 303–311 (1999)

Jeb Gleason-Allured is the editor in chief of GCI magazine and Perfumer & Flavorist magazine; jallured@allured.com.

24 Natural Ingredients GCI July/August 2015

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CONSUMER INSIGHTS

Understanding the beauty motivations of this crucial, booming consumer segment.

IMPACT POINTS n

26

For the Hispanic beauty consumer, outer beauty is a reflection of the respect you have for yourself and those around you, as well as a reflection of who you are.

n

Hispanics are projected to comprise 22% of the U.S. population within the next 15 years.

n

Latinas are generally more attuned to advertising for beauty products across virtually all media types.

n

Latinas are open to person-to-person recommendations from friends, family and others.

n

Brands can increase their bond with Latinos by running campaigns across English-language and Spanish-language media.

n

The Hispanic woman isn’t willing to save a few pennies by buying a bargain brand when it comes to her appearance.

Consumer Insights

By AleenA AstorgA roeschley

“Y

ou’re not going to the grocery store without your makeup on, are you?”

“Your father is going to be home in an hour—and I haven’t even done my hair or makeup!”

These phrases may seem out of place or too traditional for much of today’s culture, but they still resonate and stand true for one of the most rapidly growing demographics in the United States, the Hispanic woman. A recent Nielsen report (www.nielsen.com) notes that “Hispanic women over-index ... versus total households in terms of cosmetics consumption.” The report adds, “Hispanics are more likely to spend on hair care products than the general market, and they account for 16% of the total U.S. sales to this category. They also drive 14% of overall fragrances sales and 13% of cosmetics sales, the top two beauty care categories for Hispanic shopper spending.”

Today, the beauty and cosmetic industry has considerable opportunity to better serve one of the most engaged and invested consumer segments.

Growing Population Driven by Tradition Today’s young Hispanic women grow up in an environment where it is very important to be well-groomed and put-together at all times, and for all occasions. They are to never be without makeup and feel compelled to be as beautiful as they can when they leave the house to run errands, as well as when they greet their spouse or significant other.

“Natural” is not okay. Ever. Outer beauty is a reflection of who you are—it’s your way of showing the world that you care about yourself, that you have respect for those around you and that you have it all together. Essentially, outer beauty is a reflection of inner beauty. It’s as simple as “Mother said so.”

There is no denying that the Hispanic woman plays a vital part to the beauty industry today, and will continue to be a driving force into the future. The percentage of Americans who are of Hispanic descent continues to grow at six times the rate of non-Hispanics, and Hispanics are projected

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GCI July/August 2015

to comprise 22% of the U.S. population within the next 15 years.

Considering both the growing demographic and its sentiments and attitudes towards beauty, it’s worthwhile for major beauty brands to look underneath the surface statistics to illuminate how to best market to today’s Latina consumer.

The vast majority of Latinos residing in the United States today live in a world that has one foot in the past and one in the present: on one hand, the traditional habits and views with which they grew up and still experience with their family, and on the other the world of friends, coworkers and other contemporaries. While marketers tend to classify members of this population as falling into one of three segments—unacculturated, bicultural or acculturated—the typical Hispanic woman embodies different acculturation levels in her approach to different aspects of her life.

The emblematic Hispanic woman, like the majority of women, strives to look beautiful and uses beauty products regularly to help her attain a desired look. However, unlike other segments, what makes beauty products even more important to the Latina consumer is the little voice in her head— Mom reminding her that her outer beauty is a reflection of her inner beauty.

Hispanic Consumer Influencers As she heads out into the world, the young Hispanic woman has many role models.

Many of the beautiful and famous women that she aspires to look and be like, such as Jennifer Lopez and Sofia Vergara, are Latinas, but non-Hispanic women, like Beyonce, also factor in. What all of these women have in common is their glamour and sexiness. While a young non-Hispanic woman may rebel and want a sexier look that Mom would not approve of, the young Hispanic woman is unlikely to have any desire to push the envelope to, say, a Katy Perry or Miley Cyrus look.

What does all this mean for the beauty brands targeting this important and growing demographic?

Compared to non-Hispanic women, Latinas are generally more attuned to advertising for beauty products across virtually all media types. This is true for both Millennial Latinas and their older generation X and baby boomer counterparts. www.GCImagazine.com

Latinas tend to be information seekers, using both traditional ads and online social media channels to learn about new products and trends. Across product categories, Latina consumers are more likely than non-Latina consumers to actually engage with the ads to which they are exposed. Further, Latinas are more likely to remember what brand was being advertised, and are even more likely to be persuaded by the claims made in the ads they have seen.

Being highly social, Latinas also are open to person-to-person recommendations, from friends, family and others. For example, the strength of Avon brands among Latinas speaks to the social dynamic and the willingness to adopt brands that are recommended, and even sold, by one’s friends and family. As for brands that are sold through more traditional retail channels, the in-store salesperson can be a highly persuasive individual.

Hispanic women are not striving to be beautiful to just their Latino friends, but rather to embody a beauty that is widely recognized and admired across ethnic lines.

Some would argue that the importance of the Latino target audience to beauty brands lends itself to a separate campaign to target this segment. However, given the crossover of media engagements, and the universal definitions of beauty that Hispanic and non-Hispanic women alike are seeking to attain, more, rather than less, cohesion is a surer path to success.

Connecting with Latinas From a media standpoint, with the exception of the least acculturated Hispanic women (who tend to be older), today’s Latina is highly engaged with broad-based, English-language media platforms. In fact, she’s more likely to see an ad placed on network TV, in an English-language fashion magazine or on an English-language website than she is to see an ad purchased in Spanish-language media venues.

Many brands in traditional product categories such as consumer packaged goods, alcohol/beer and even automotive, find that they can increase their bond with Latinos by running campaigns across English-language and Spanish-language media. Savvy advertisers are aware that the typical Latino consumer, acculturated or not, will see their general market ads along with their Spanish-language ads.

Those who understand that their brand positioning should be consistent across the different ads will generally create Spanishlanguage ads that are not completely separate from the general market campaign, but rather present them with slight nuances that will strengthen affinity with Latino prospects.

When it comes to beauty brands, it may arguably be better to concentrate primarily on broad-based, English-language media venues, unless your brand is specifically designed for and targeted to the Hispanic woman. After all, most of today’s young

Product Mix Colors and shadings within the product mix have to work for the Hispanic women.

Brand names are very important—the Hispanic woman isn’t willing to save a few pennies by buying a bargain brand when it comes to her appearance.

The classic, foundational brands, the ones that have been around for years, hold an important place in the brand repertoire. But so do the newer, cool brands—the ones that weren’t around when Mom was young, but which provide today’s version of glamour.

The Hispanic woman is willing to spend what it takes to attain the look she’s after.

Her pursuit and relationship with beauty brands is fueled by both a contemporary interest and a traditional upbringing.

Not only does the Latina look to friends and aspirational role models for ideas, advice and inspiration, but she’ll never forget the beauty lessons from her Mom: “outer beauty is a reflection of inner beauty.” n GCI

Aleena Astorga Roeschley is senior project manager and multicultural expert at Communicus, a research-based advertising consultancy that specializes in isolating the impact of advertising and integrated communications campaigns on brands. A second-generation Mexican American, she leverages decades of experience in Hispanic culture and language, providing insights and recommendations to brands seeking to engage Hispanic consumers.

Consumer Insights 27

Green PackaGinG

Sustainability for Packaging Success Recovery, sourcing and optimization are the keys to implementing successful sustainability strategies for your packaging.

EcoVision Packaging’s Eco line, featuring Organic Essence products, are 100% recycled PCW paper eco tubes and jars, completely biodegradable and safe for home composting.

BY SARA MASON

IMPACT POINTS n

Sustainable practices are now more an expectation than a trend.

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Over time, sustainable practices can be money- and energy-saving investments.

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Materials used, where it is sourced, how it is created and transported, and the technologies used to produce the package are important to consider in how a package impacts the environment.

Researching new materials, such as bamboo and wheat straw, to make corrugated paper and packaging materials could potentially lower costs and raise public awareness.

Green Packaging

B

rands have been “going green” for years. It is now less a trend and more an expectation. Sustainable practices in businesses not only provide a positive marketing selling point to consumers, especially those who support the going-green trend, but over time, sustainable practices can be money- and energy-saving investments.

Sustainability is a huge driver for innovation. When consumers see sustainable packaging, it signals a company’s own commitment to the environment. It also can backfire if brands are seen to be using sustainability for marketing without substance to their claims. It is important to be authentic.

“Many companies initially embrace sustainability for marketing reasons but don’t think through the link to their brand promise,” says Nina Goodrich, executive director of GreenBlue, an environmental nonprofit that equips businesses with the science and resources to make products more sustainable.

“Sustainable packaging is often driven by brand promise. Cost savings and efficiency are often early drivers as well,” she continues. “Integrating sustainability into the overall strategy of a company, to include looking at the package as it relates to the product, will help us move toward more sustainable systems.”

What is Sustainable Packaging?

Packaging has value in its role in protecting the economic, environmental and social value of the products it contains. But, it must be considered in the context of the product.

Initially, going green primarily meant light-weighting. That can be one piece of it, of course, but now it’s more important than ever to evaluate packaging and product lifecycle holistically.

Consumers won’t necessarily appreciate the effort you put into packaging unless it results in a superior product in an easy-touse format.

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GCI July/August 2015

Green Packaging

Bottle Coatings Inc. protects against UV degradation in glass packaging with a powder coating process that uses no volatile organic compounds and doesn’t release chemicals in the air.

“Start with cost-effective performance, and match material properties with end-uses to make sure the package will perform to expectation,” says Steve Davies, NatureWorks director of corporate communications and public affairs. “Nothing is sustainable long term if it is not economically viable as well.”

Companies, such as NatureWorks, will collaborate with clients to help ensure all conditions are in synch. “There are many paths to becoming more sustainable,” Davies continues. “There is no one right solution.”

The Sustainable Packaging Coalition (SPC), an industry working group managed by the nonprofit GreenBlue, is dedicated to a more robust environmental vision for packaging.

SPC has brought together hundreds of companies and stakeholders interested in working together to broaden the understanding of packaging sustainability and develop meaningful improvements throughout the supply chain. The industry group has a wide variety of reports, tools and resources available to help companies make the business case for sustainability.

Goodrich contends that there is no “sustainable package.” Rather, each package is unique and requires analysis to determine how to make it as sustainable as possible. Materials used, where it is sourced, how it is created and transported, and the technologies used to produce the package are important to consider in how a package impacts the environment.

Sustainability can be measured in a variety of ways. The SPC breaks it down into three broad categories: sourcing, optimization and recovery.

Recovery is related to the next life of the package. Metrics include: recyclability, collectability and options for re-use. Paper and plastics are often widely recyclable, but some of the treatments on the packaging to make it stand out on the shelf make the beauty package a contaminant in the recycle stream.

“A great deal of high-end packaging in the beauty industry is difficult or impossible to recycle or uses harsh processes to get specific effects,” explains Goodrich.

Beauty packaging also tends to be small and that makes it difficult to recover in traditional curbside collection systems. SPC has developed a How2Recycle label that can be seen on AVEDA and Target brand products. This label informs consumers how 30 Green Packaging GCI July/August 2015

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Green Packaging to determine if a package is recyclable in their area. MAC and Origins also have initiated take-back programs to help to recover specific materials.

“Composting is a potential future option for some small packages,” Goodrich adds.

Sourcing can include metrics related to the use of certified and sustainably sourced fiber, biopolymers and recycled content. Energy metrics, such as “percentage made with renewable energy,” are also possible, according to Goodrich.

Optimization is related to material efficiency in primary and secondary packaging and in transportation. Traditional measures can include light weighting, cube efficiency and manufacturing waste.

“The important concept here is that the environmental footprint of the product is usually larger than the footprint of the package, so it’s important not to compromise the product,” Goodrich explains. “In the case of beauty, some packages are very elaborate, so they might have a larger environmental footprint than the product.”

Recovery While consumers ultimately determine whether packaging winds up in the recycling or compost bin rather than the landfill, more and more companies are working to give them the opportunity to make a responsible choice.

Bottle Coatings Inc., a division of SunDial Powder Coatings, provides a patent-pending recyclable coating for glass bottles.

This technology protects against UV degradation by powder coating the bottle—rather than using a combination of liquid and chemicals. The technique helps to prolong product shelf life and is environmentally sound.

“The powder coating process uses no volatile organic compounds (VOCs), there is no release of chemicals in the air through evaporation, and any over-sprayed powder is easily recoverable and safely disposable,” explains Shivie Dhillon, president of Bottle Coatings. “Everyone benefits from reduced environmental cleanup costs.”

Bioplastics is another option increasing in demand. Aveda claims to be the first beauty company to combine PCR and bioplastics in a plastic tube. Bioplastics are made from renewable biomass sources or food crops and are considered more sustainable than conventional plastic packaging products. The bioplastic PLA can, in theory, be recycled. However, it is grouped under the plastic resin code #7. Earth Renewable Technologies is one supplier working with industry leaders to increase the recyclability of these plastics over the long term.

“More than ever before, consumers are seeking products that reflect a comprehensive consciousness to the environment,” says Owen Schultz, vice president of EarthBottle’s New Business Development.

Earth Renewable Technologies’s new EarthBottle is a plant-based packaging solution that is a sustainable alternative to petroleumbased plastics. Boasting a sustainable footprint from cradle to cradle, all EarthBottles are made using plant-based materials without toxic plasticizers or fossil fuels and have the potential to be recycled.

The company is working with industry leaders to increase the recyclability of #7 plastics over the long term. The company claims that EarthBottle packaging is stronger and lighter than glass, and outperforms existing PLAs in durability, quality and barrier properties.

32 Green Packaging GCI July/August 2015

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Green Packaging The proprietary biopolymer used to make these bottles, called EarthMatter, offers a lower carbon footprint and reduced greenhouse gas emissions over the production of conventional plastics.

In addition, during the decomposition process of the biopolymer, no chemicals or hazardous materials are leached into the water or land. Instead, vital minerals and antioxidants are returned back to the earth, according to company materials.

Variations of the biopolymer are being tested for flexible packaging, durable goods, fibers and other uses.

Sourcing Supply chain traceability and transparency has become increasingly important in raw materials sourcing, and that applies to packaging as well.

Plastic has taken over packaging because it works well at protecting the product, has excellent barrier properties and keeps oxygen out. But Ellery West, whose company EcoVision Packaging started with plastic materials but switched to paper, had this growing consciousness that there was a disconnect between organic, sustainable products and plastic packaging.

Most people have an idea that sustainability is the ability to carry on for a long period of time. “Something that protects life—or better yet is a product of life—that is sustainable,” explains West.

“Paper is sustainable, it is recyclable and carbon neutral,” he continues.

The last experience of the brand is as consumer throws the empty package away. Consumers are going to think about whether they had a good experience and whether they are going to buy another one.

“It is important to consider that while plastic looks brand new and the package expression hasn’t diminished, consumers will start to realize that package will last forever—in a landfill,” says West.

On the other hand, there is something satisfying about getting rid of the old and replacing with the new. “By changing the expectation, we look at a depreciated package as a virtue, they are already part of life and going back to life,” explains West.

EcoVision Packaging’s Eco line features a sustainable, recyclable and biodegradable tube and a jar in a variety of sizes. The unique compostable packaging is primarily made of paper, with water resistant versions

NatureWorks’ Inego, made by transforming greenhouse gas into physical materials, provides rigid packaging for the Priori CoffeeBerry Sun Kissed compact case.

featuring a small amount of compostable corn-based PLA. The Eco Paste Tube will be available in 2017 for creams, toothpaste and other semi-solid products.

Development of the company’s Organic Confidence deodorant was a unique challenge. A deodorant with organic materials that exclude synthetic chemistry has a much narrower useful temperature range for a formulation.

“This would not be as much of a challenge when using a typical plastic screw-up deodorant package, but with a paper squeeze-from-the-bottom tube, temperature matters much more in regards to ease of use,” explains West. When formulating the product, careful attention had to be paid to the average temperature range in typical bathrooms year-round. In this way, product development went hand in hand with the package development and constraints and influenced the package dimensions.

Having developed the packaging and product concurrently, West solved usability issues for both. EcoVision can now sell that paper package to others, as stock packaging and as private label products.

For the deodorant and lip balm products, the relatively weak oxygen barrier properties of food/pharmaceutical grade casein that is used in the package construction, with the multiple layers of thick paper, are sufficient for keeping the vegetable oils and beeswax from leaking and premature oxidation. Once the product is purchased, daily use by opening the container is enough to fully oxygenate the product surface, but daily use continues to erode the product surface, just as with almost any other package.

EcoVision has been making the same lip balm formulation for 17 years, about half that time with plastic packaging and half that time with paper packaging.

34 Green Packaging GCI July/August 2015

“Surprisingly, the paper package has similar time periods to rancidity as the plastic,” says West. “A metalized layer on either would provide better oxygen resistance for both.”

While there are challenges, West believes that with innovation eventually all the plastic on the shelves can be replaced with paper. But for that to happen, expectations must be changed. “A lot of the industry is making assumptions that they are not aware of making and unable to think outside the box—a clear, plastic box,” explains Ellery. He suggests that researchers take their eyes off plastic and look for ways to develop the right barrier materials that are themselves non-toxic so that they can go back into the earth.

The downside to paper is that it takes a tree about 14 years to grow and be ready for its one-time conversion into paper and one-time use as packaging. Researching and considering new materials—such as bamboo and wheat straw—to make corrugated paper and packaging materials could potentially lower costs and raise

www.GCImagazine.com

public awareness, as well as enable materials to be renewed much more quickly.

Fibrepak, a sub-brand of leading European thermoformer Plastique, manufactures thermoformed fiber-molded pulp packaging from renewable virgin fibers such as sugar cane fibers, bamboo, wheat straw and blends of various grass fibers. The sustainable natural materials produce no waste or toxic materials.

Unlike traditional molded pulp packaging, Fibrepak’s process—known as thermoformed fiber—uses “Cure-In-TheMold” technology to produce well-defined, smooth, thin-walled packaging that can be colored and blended using food-safe pigment dyes to provide a variety of finishes. The packaging is recyclable and compostable.

Optimization Companies have to measure what they are doing now and find ways to decrease environmental impacts of their packaging over its entire life cycle, as well as other

corporate practices including emissions and energy usage. Many brands base their culture on natural products and low environmental impact. They can support their initiatives with more sustainable products from suppliers that support market developments.

NatureWorks’ Inego is used in a variety of rigid packaging for the food industries, as well as in long-term primary packaging for cosmetics, such as compacts and lipstick cases. Early examples included CARGO Cosmetics’ PlantLove lipstick tube and Priori’s CoffeeBerry Sun Kissed compact case. More recently, Ingeo has been used not only for personal care packaging, but the personal care products themselves, such as Neutrogena Naturals’ Purifying Makeup Remover Cleansing Towelettes.

“Ingeo is a naturally advanced material because it is made by transforming greenhouse gas (GHG) into physical materials,” says Davies. NatureWorks does this today through the photosynthesis of plants, and then harvesting the plant sugar

Green Packaging 35

Green Packaging and fermenting it into lactic acid—the building block of Ingeo’s bioplastic.

“Photosynthesis takes carbon out of the atmosphere,” he explains. “We start with a fundamentally safe product (lactic acid, something that the body naturally produces), and then we add nothing to it.” This is something that increasingly conscious consumers are beginning to expect from the brands they trust.

In some packaging, Ingeo requires less material because of its rigidity. This means sourcing less material. Inego also offers price stability. “Petroleum-based plastics exhibit price instability, and over the long haul potential supply issues,” explains Davies.

NatureWorks’ new formulations raise the performance of its Ingeo material used for durable products, such as compacts, while increasing the biocontent and making the material faster and easier to process. The supplier will work with brands to provide naturally advanced packaging and ingredients that support the brand promise and earn brand loyalty.

Optimization can take place in other areas of the supply chain as well. Being on the forefront of green initiatives, Aveda recently signed a contract with San Diego entrepreneur Eaman Talai. His year-old startup BoxedGreen purchases their shipping boxes for $1 to be reused before recycling.

Finding Balance Certainly not every packaging solution is easy, but thinking outside the traditional box enables the industry to implement sustainable elements that benefit the company and the world at the same time.

Recognizing the long-term of environmentally responsible packaging, more brands are redefining beauty packaging by incorporating sustainability goals into corporate decision-making.

“The industry needs to think about the next life of the package at the beginning,” says GreenBlue’s Goodrich. “Many beauty

package design effects could be achieved with more sustainable practices up front.”

Sustainability is a series of steps that are aimed at environmental and social benefits, while ensuring that the company remains economically viable. “It is a balancing act,” says Davies. “It takes time, commitment and measurement, but the benefits in brand loyalty will stay around for a long time.” n GCI

Sara Mason is a freelance writer based in the Chicagoland area. She was previously managing editor of GCI magazine.

36 Green Packaging GCI July/August 2015

Come visit booth 20335 at Cosmoprof North America

Brand StorieS

THE

INDIE SPIRIT OF

URBAN DECAY

A range of Urban Decay cosmetics; source: Sephora/Urban Decay.

Maintaining an edge, post-acquisition.

BY NANCY JEFFRIES

U IMPACT POINTS

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Creating winning products requires that no creative stone is left unturned.

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Leading with passion is crucial for executing a creative vision.

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Respecting the DNA and heritage of the company has kept it on-point creatively.

Brand Stories

rban Decay, an edgy beauty brand with an independent spirit, has clearly retained its DNA. “Urban Decay Cosmetics is a cult-following company recognized for its success, and continues to be a front-runner in the beauty industry,” Carlotta Jacobson, president, CEW, noted.

The key question at Cosmetic Executive Women’s (CEW) Beauty Insider presentation, held April 29, 2015, at New York’s Urban League Club, was how a brand with a “beauty with an edge” identity retains its cachet following its acquisition by beauty powerhouse, L’Oréal in 2012.

Jill Scalamandre, chair, CEW, posed the question as she introduced the evening’s panelists, Carol J. Hamilton, president, L’Oréal Luxe Division, USA and Wende Zomnir, chief creative officer/founding partner, Urban Decay Cosmetics. “To understand a founder’s creative vision is always interesting,” said Scalamandre.

A Partnership for Expansion Zomnir told Scalamandre how she and Hamilton met at the Balboa Beach Club in Newport Beach, California. Zomnir said she knew immediately that Hamilton “really knew and understood the brand.”

Hamilton added, “I was always fascinated with indie brands and felt we needed to talk.”

Hamilton had followed Urban Decay since 1996 and recognized L’Oréal’s need for a brand that specialized in cosmetics.

“This was … a makeup specialist and makeup artistry brand,” said Hamilton.

“This was something we didn’t have.”

Zomnir noted, “Carol is such a huge part of it. It’s a retail, consumer business, and it’s about partnership.”

This partnership ultimately gave Urban Decay the ability to expand in an efficient way, according to Zomnir.

Hamilton added, “We wanted Urban Decay to be part of our family and we knew

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GCI July/August 2015

we needed Wende’s direction, and made sure no one interfered with it.”

The Fine Line between Art and Commerce Despite a strong partnership, Zomnir found that refining and executing a creative vision in today’s complex market posed challenges.

She explained, “While social media is great, it creates a disconnect, so people are always looking for a real connection, and people want to buy from real people. Urban Decay walks a fine line between art and commerce. Whenever we create products we try to leave no stone unturned, down to the shade name and the formula on the box.”

Desert Island Strategy Jenny Fine, editor of Beauty Inc., noted that Urban Decay has grown 32%, according to NPD findings, and asked what was driving that growth.

www.GCImagazine.com

From left: Moderator Jenny Fine, editor, Beauty Inc.; Wende Zomnir, chief creative officer/founding partner, Urban Decay Cosmetics; Jill Scalamandre, chair, CEW; Carol Hamilton, president, L’Oreal Luxe Division, USA; and Carlotta Jacobson, president, CEW.

Brand Stories 39

Brand Stories “We try to hit all the aspects of the product,” said Zomnir. “The Nakeds, for example”—which Fine noted have spawned many imitators—“represent a neutral palette that was agreed upon by four individuals in the team, who each suggested their favorites. These appeal to a wide variety of women. This is my desert island strategy: What do I bring if I’m stuck on a desert island?

We had no idea we’d do as well.”

Hamilton added, “What impressed me the most was the quality of the shades and formulas. Because of the special attention to every aspect and every detail, it kind of broke the bank on everything.”

Zomnir noted that while the creative team knew they would do a Naked II palette and launch into other areas with Nakeds, they spent a lot of time working on their skin formulations.

“I wouldn’t say we officially market test,” she explained. “I start from the gut and then look backwards from the numbers and see if my gut worked.

Zomnir noted that in order to stay inspired, “You have to be open to everything. For example, I was in a restaurant bathroom recently and I was inspired by the floor, which is now part of our packaging.”

Wear It, Live It, Love It Hamilton commented on the diversity and ongoing evolution of today’s cosmetic market, while Zomnir added, “The customer wants to be who she is. We use social media to connect with our followers. There is a lot of real, organic engagement with our followers on social media. It’s interesting, on my own Instagram, if I show pictures of my children, I lose followers. My followers want to see dirty makeup.”

Her mantra? “Wear it, live it, love it.”

The new Urban Decay store is a testament to that mission. Referred to by Zomnir as an “experiential lab,” the Urban Decay store is intended to “offer our customers a different experience, to be immersed in the brand. It’s all about learning, tweaking and modifying.”

In response to a question about her leadership style, Zomnir said, “You have to lead by example. If you’ve got the passion, then everyone on the team will have it. The team fosters an environment where everyone is open to challenge.”

Responding to a question about her vision for the brand, Zomnir replied, “We love the juxtaposition of the really beautiful and the not.

When you walk around New York City and you see something great and also something crumbling, that’s key.”

Hamilton noted that, as a team, “We all inspire each other and interpret in our own way what is right for the brand. The team really works as a unit together and shares all the big decisions, which is unusual for a big company.

We also want to have a California vibe, as opposed to Europe or New York.”

Hamilton added that, in respecting the DNA of the brand and its Newport Beach office, “we keep dogs in our offices.”

That said, the company continues to expand.

Hamilton noted that she continues to enjoy seeing how the brand translates internationally: “One of the big joys was to see the brand launch in Russia. It’s so emotional to see how it translates.”

Finally, in response to an audience question regarding Zomnir’s dream vision for Urban Decay’s future, she said, “I would like to continue to maintain the integrity of the brand and not lose sight of its unique point of view.” n GCI

Nancy Jeffries is a contributing editor for GCI magazine, covering the industry from her New York vantage. Jeffries has been in the publishing business for more than 20 years. Her introduction to the cosmetics and personal care industry began as editor of GCI magazine from 1997–2000; bnjcasa@aol.com.

40 Brand Stories GCI July/August 2015

Please visit us at Cosmoprof NA Booth #24533

CONSUMER & INGREDIENT INSIGHTS

Their impact on your success.

By Jennifer Donahue

IMPACT POINTS

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Aspirational consumers are concerned with social, environmental and material concerns.

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Advocate consumers are less concerned with materialism, but are concerned about social and environmental issues.

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Socially responsible brands targeting advocate and aspirational consumers will outperform those that are conventionally positioned.

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Formulations for sustainable brands will increasingly comprise ingredients produced from non-petrochemical sources.

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The use of certifications can reassure consumers that they are purchasing responsible products.

Consumer & Ingredient Insights

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he aspirational consumer is the new driving force of the economy, according to BBMG (bbmg.com). The brand innovation consultancy notes that 39% of consumers identify with this group and are concerned with both social and environmental values, as well as materialism.

These “happy shoppers” are looking to buy from companies that provide a story that appeals to their desire to improve overall social wellbeing while protecting or improving the environment. In addition, 53% of aspirationals (theaspirationals.com) would buy more sustainable products if it connected them to a community of peers with shared values. The second largest consumer group, the advocates, is less concerned with materialism but score just as high on social and environmental values.

BBMG studies show that aspirationals and advocates combined account for 65% of consumers, so it is no surprise that socially responsible brands are outperforming the rest.

For example, “Unilever reported that their brands with the strongest sustainability credentials—such as Dove,

Lifebouy, Ben & Jerry’s and Comfort— have seen sales grow at high single digit or double digit growth over the last three years,” according to a May 2015 Reuters story by Martinne Geller (www.reuters.com).

Socially responsible consumer companies need partners across the supply chain, including ingredient manufacturers. For instance, Croda International PLC is focused on sustainability across all aspects of its business by utilizing sustainable feed stocks in new and existing product development, optimizing its manufacturing processes within the company’s plants, and reducing its overall environmental impact

Product Design Croda sources about 70% of its raw materials from natural, renewable sources, while the “12 Principles of Green Chemistry” (www.epa.gov/sciencematters/ june2011/principles.htm) play a central role in product design. In 2014, the average score for new products compared against the 12 principles was 10.7; 48% of development met all criteria. Recognizing the consumer need for more sustainable products, Croda has started to measure its

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GCI July/August 2015

progress toward its own 13th Principle: the product affords a sustainability benefit to the customer directly, or to their customers at some point in the value chain.

Today, Croda’s product development efforts are focused on using the most naturally derived raw materials available, as well as innovative production approaches such as marine biotechnology.

Novel Manufacturing Practices Ideally the aspirational consumer would like to have as much choice as possible when it comes to his or her personal care routine. There are plenty of niche brands on the market positioned to the naturalseeking consumer, but sustainable solutions for the mass market offerings is a real market need.

The workhorse products that consumers use to cleanse their bodies are based on chemistries derived from ethylene oxide, which has traditionally been petrochemicalbased. Recently, Croda announced that its Atlas Point manufacturing site (groundbreaking pictured) will produce 100% sustainable non-ionic surfactants using ethylene oxide derived from bioethanol rather than petrochemicals.

These sustainable non-ionic surfactants will perform as well as non-sustainable options. This initiative will reduce the use of fossil fuels by moving away from traditional petrochemical-derived ingredients and create a large portfolio of sustainably produced ingredients to be used across many industries.

Consumers are demanding full transparency, which means that brands are working more closely with their raw ingredient suppliers to understand how a product is sourced and/or manufactured.

The advances in energy conservation, in addition to the increase in natural feedstocks, make this a great story to share with consumers.

In 2014, eight Croda manufacturing sites sent no waste to landfill, and the Atlas Point site is using reclaimed landfill gas to power its operations. Many sites are also harnessing natural energy from the sun and wind with solar panels and wind turbines.

In 2014, Croda as a whole eliminated 40,700 tonnes of carbon dioxide emissions, which is the equivalent of taking 24,328 cars off the road. www.GCImagazine.com

Recently, Croda announced that its Atlas Point manufacturing site (groundbreaking pictured) will produce 100% sustainable non-ionic surfactants using ethylene oxide derived from bio-ethanol rather than petrochemicals.

Product Stewardship & Certifications: Palm Oil Certifications can reassure consumers that they are purchasing products that meet the qualifications that they desire and value.

There are many certification organizations, like EcoCert/Cosmos and the Natural Products Association (NPA), that assure a product complies with requirements specified in a standard or benchmark for the natural composition of the raw ingredients within a formulation; however, with the large number of certifications and lack of harmonization of the standards, there is a lot of consumer confusion.

Applying a simple harmonized standard could make natural and sustainable cosmetics more accessible to consumers.

For example, the social and environmental issues associated with palm oil (PO) and palm kernel oil (PKO) have recently gained significant attention.

About 70% of personal care products contain PO/PKO derivatives. Emotional commercials, such as “A Cheesy Love Story” (www.youtube.com), are designed to publicly call out corporations that do not have a responsible palm oil sourcing strategy. Therefore, supporting RSPO principles is an important advancement in the quest to deliver sustainable products to the socially concerned consumer.

In the personal care industry, being a member of the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO) and adhering to its goals are a must. Companies such as Croda are taking an additional progressive step by adopting the RSPO’s mass balance system, supporting the palm oil physical supply

chain and creating momentum toward segregated sustainable PO and PKO material.

Seven of the company’s manufacturing sites are RSPO Supply Chain Certified to handle sustainable PO/PKO derivatives via mass balance, handling more than 80% of its global palm derivatives. This allows customers around the world to purchase more than 100 different chemistries, helping to support a supply chain based on sustainably sourced PO/PKO.

Benefit for Brands Even the smallest personal care brands can make a large positive impact with their socially minded messaging. Since the late 1970s, the beauty segment has lead the way for promoting social change.

From the start, the Body Shop was making social and political statements. Conversely, multinational brands can be an easy target for NGOs—if they fall behind in their commitments to social and environmental causes.

There is an opportunity to build a much deeper relationship with aspirational consumers by honoring their universal desire to drive significant behavior change, business growth and positive social impact. n GCI

Jennifer Donahue is the marketing manager, skin care North America, for Croda International PLC. She holds a Bachelor’s of Arts in Chemistry from Cornell University and a Master’s of Business Administration from Rutgers University. Donahue has experience as a bench chemist, in addition to many years in raw materials sales, and is an active member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists.

Consumer & Ingredient Insights 43

Retail insights

By Steve Sleeper

IMPACT POINTS n

Brands seeking to diversify their portfolio and create a long-term profitable investment may find the spa channel attractive.

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The spa channel comprises niche channels such as nail care, skin care, hair cutting, coloring and replacement, whole body wellness and more.

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The salon and spa environment is fiercely loyal and exclusive.

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Products developed for this channel must appeal both to the consumer and the professionals on the front line of client service.

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44

Brands must be in it for the long haul to succeed and profit.

Retail Insights

Creating a lasting, profitable relationship with the professionals at the front line.

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GCI July/August 2015

E

xpanding into a new marketplace can be daunting, but it is a necessary element to increase clientele and grow revenue. The U.S. professional beauty channel services a large and diverse demographic and can hold a world of opportunity for brands that are looking to diversify their portfolio and create a long-term and profitable investment.

With multiple niches within one channel, including specializations in skin care, nail care, hair cutting, coloring and replacement, as well as whole-body wellness, the salon and spa industry is a vibrant and growing component of the U.S. economy.

The most recent reporting from the Bureau of Labor Statistics (www. bls.gov) shows that the industry includes more than 1.1 million total establishments and annual sales of more than $44 billion.

The overall beauty retail category in the U.S. posted sales of about $43 billion in the most recent data, according to the Professional Beauty Association’s (PBA) Business of Beauty: Defining the Future of Beauty Retailing report, with salon hair care products making up one-third of that market. The report estimates that retail sales within the salon currently exceed $2.5 billion and are expected to grow substantially in the coming years.

With continued growth year-over-year, the professional beauty industry has proven traditionally resilient to economic shifts and downturns, growing relatively faster than most industries, and is often the last arena in which cash-strapped customers choose to curtail spending. This presents a very real opportunity for brands carrying related beauty products, especially those that have already established name recognition in more traditional retail channels, to be part of this explosive growth.

Build Loyalty and They Will Come The salon and spa environment is one of fierce loyalty and exclusivity. It is an innovative industry of luxury and high margins, likely untapped by most brand managers. Getting your products on the shelves of the salon/spa gives your brand exclusivity and a professional designation that can add uniqueness and expertise that most over-the-counter retail channels can’t offer.

Salon/spa clients often form personal and long-lasting relationships with their licensed professional hairdressers and estheticians. Clients surveyed for PBA’s Business of Beauty report nearly unanimously state that they depend on their hairdresser and esthetician for education and look to them as the authority on retail products for their hair, skin and nails. They generally trust and will buy what the professional recommends. This can be especially beneficial when launching new products as word of mouth marketing, both between beauty professional stylist/esthetician and client and among fellow professionals, can be particularly helpful in an overall marketing strategy within salons and spas.

Just as clients are loyal to their hairdresser and esthetician/ licensed professional, salon/spa owners and professionals genuinely care about the products their customers are purchasing and can be fiercely devoted to the brands they offer their clients. Most salons and spas carry only a small selection of their preferred brands.

To be successful, you will need to form a trusting partnership with owners, and continue to foster that partnership, to convince them that your products are worthy of display in their establishment. Get your brand on their must-have list for clients and you will likely see your products flying off the shelf. www.GCImagazine.com

Retail Insights 45

Retail insights However, that loyalty doesn’t come overnight. Brands entering the salon/ spa channel must be prepared to educate salon and spa professionals on the benefits of their products and offer the marketing tools and support to help owners and professionals be successful in the working salon/spa environment.

To appeal to owners, it is essential to know the industry inside and out, be on top of industry and consumer trends, be honest and transparent, and have the solutions to any obstacles owners feel they will face, such as educating staff and customers on why your product is the right choice. They must feel that carrying your product is a unique opportunity to not only increase their retail revenue, but positively impact the well-being of their clients and staff.

Be the Brand They Will Sell Salon/spa professionals are first and foremost dedicated to their craft. Although the retail aspect of the industry is incredibly important to the growth and sustainability of the establishment, and is often the key profit

driver for most salons, it is often overlooked by professionals working with clients who may not be as well versed in sales techniques as professionals in a strictly retail setting.

In fact, it has been reported that nearly 71% of salon/spa clients leave the establishment without receiving any product recommendation at all. Educating the salon/spa professional and creating excitement, and possibly implementing incentive programs, will help to ensure they are comfortable and more likely to recommend your products to their clients.

Competing for loyalty amongst already established and prominent salon/spa brands, especially if you are breaking into this market with little or no connections, will not be an easy task. A brand must have the dedication, support, financial stability, and ability to react to challenges and new trends to make the investment a success and grow business.

You are not only marketing your product to the consumer but to the salon/spa owner and the professionals on the front line of client service. Education and making your products accessible through attractive

packaging and in-house marketing and point-of-purchase displays are crucial to successful retailing in this channel.

Success Requires Dedication The salon/spa marketplace is promising, but fragmented, with many brands competing for a coveted spot on the salon/spa shelf.

Salon/spa owners and professionals working behind the chair do not give their loyalty to brands easily.

Dedication to the industry and its professionals is key. As a brand, there is ample potential to be part of this prosperous, growing and relatively untapped channel, but you have to be in it for the long haul to make it work and make it profitable. n GCI

Steve Sleeper is the executive director of the Professional Beauty Association (PBA). He has more been with the PBA since 1995 and has fulfilled the roles of manager of finance, director of finance and general manager.

He has served as PBA’s executive director since 2001; steve@probeauty.org.

46 Retail Insights GCI July/August 2015

Packaging Innovations

Airless is More

There are a number of reasons beauty marketers may choose to go with an airless packaging solution, including defenses against contamination and oxidation, shelf-life longevity, waste minimization, ease of use and more.

For example, Aptar (www.aptar.com) recently supplied its airless Bag On Valve System and Moritz Twist-To-Lock accessory to Pure Sun Defense’s Despicable Me Minion Made Pure Sun Defense Spray—SPF 50 (pictured). The system allows for easy application at any angle.

Luxe Pack New York, which took place May 13 and 14 in Manhattan, featured a range of airless options.

Busy lifestyle packaging solution: MeadWestvaco Corporation introduced its MiniMod, an airless pump and pouch dispensing system for convenient on-the-go product dispensing of skin care creams, lotions and hair care products. The system includes a push-button actuator and an Ampac-designed flexible pouch available in 25-ml and 40-ml sizes. Pouch sizes and shapes can also be customized. Marietta Corporation/KIK Custom Products can assist with customers’ product filling needs.

Airless applicators: Fusion Packaging presented its Direct Effect Airless, piston-driven airless applicators for targeted treatment. The range includes the Curved Tip Airless, featuring a dual-resin tip and ergonomic curved design that contours the face. The applicator combines a single-wall polypropylene bottle, collar, overcap and applicator with a smooth, non-porous thermoplastic elastomer tip. The Single Rollerball Airless combines the effect of stainless steel with a plush TPE ring. The angled applicator is designed to mold to the eye and lip contours. The Dual Rollerball Airless is a stacked airless double stainless steel rollerball applicator for skin care products. The rollers stimulate the under-eye area, promoting circulation and providing de-puffing benefits. The applicator features a matte PP plate and slightly curved profile. All products are available in 5-ml, 8-ml, 10-ml and 15-ml sizes.

Lacquer effects: Mega Airless has launched a series of new silkscreen lacquering effects, including wet-look, rough stone and crackled textures for its standard dispensers. The wet effect has a soft feel that can be applied to part or all of a bottle or cap.

Stylish and functional: Neopac showed its Airless Tube de Luxe, which is made with protective polyfoil and has a mirror high-gloss finish. The company’s tubes were shown with Aptar’s Evolux and Evoclassic airless pumps.

Pure Sun Defense’s Despicable Me Minion Made Pure Sun Defense Spray—SPF 50

Pratt’s annual Art of Packaging Award Gala, which was held on May 19 at The University Club of New York, began with vibrantly colored images of cosmetics flashing on flat-screen monitors as the Pratt Institute honored James Gager, senior vice president and group creative director at MAC Cosmetics and Jo Malone Worldwide, for his outstanding commitment to package design.

“We are very, very proud that [Gager] is a Pratt graduate,” said Thomas Schutte, Pratt Institute president.

In addition to being known for his sophisticated design sensibities with the Jo Malone brand, Gager also has been credited with being instrumental in helping to grow MAC into a global makeup artist powerhouse brand, where he has served as creative From left: Marc Rosen and James Gager. director and senior vice president since 1999. Gager received a Bachelor’s degree of industrial design and a Master’s of Science degree in packaging design from Pratt Institute. “This is not just a celebration of me,” said Gager. “It is a celebration of everyone that has worked on the brands that I’ve worked on.” Also in attendance was John Demsey, group president of The Estée Lauder Companies. Demsey has worked for Estée Lauder since 1991, served as the MAC brand president from 1998 to 2005 and raised more than $365 million as chairman of the MAC AIDS fund. The Packaging Awards gala benefits the Marc Rosen Scholarship and Education Fund for Packaging by Design at Pratt Institute and attracts top-tier companies and executives from the multi-billion-dollar cosmetics industry.

“Tonight marks our most successful evening, having raised tonight $400,000,” said Schutte. “And this beautiful event has flourished as a result of your efforts. Thank you so much.”

Emceed by supermodel Carol Alt, the event marked 26 years of the fund that has helped raise more than $3.5 million for scholarships for graduate packaging design students at Pratt. The Marc Rosen Scholarship and Education Fund for Packaging by Design is cited as the world’s only scholarship for Master’s degree-level students looking to pursue careers in cosmetics and packaging design. To date, the fund has provided scholarships to 104 Pratt students, many of whom have become industry leaders. This year’s student scholarship winners were: • Olivia Hwayoung Kim (Seoul, Korea) • Liyang Xu (Shanghai, China) • Saana Hellsten (Helsinki, Finland) • In-Young Bae (Busan, Korea) • Hsiao-Han Chen (Taipei City, Taiwan) • Marc Valega (Clark, New Jersey)

Hair Serum Dispenser

The recent launch of Schwarzkopf’s Satin-SmoothSerum for hair was presented in a 6.8-oz package.

The product is dispensed with the EuroMist spray pump from Aptar Beauty + Home. The 10-oz can contains product that is dispensed by Aptar’s XL200 actuator on a VX valve. www.aptar.com

Schwarzkopf

Pratt Packaging Awards

The latest in Packaging innovation

48 Packaging Innovations GCI July/August 2015

Bottles and Cartons Driving Personal Care Packaging Growth

The global personal care packaging market will grow at 5.5% per year through 2019, according to a new analysis from PMMI (www.pmmi.org) The Association for Packaging and Processing Technologies, the owner and producer of PACK EXPO Las Vegas and Pharma EXPO 2015 (Sept. 28–30; Las Vegas Convention Center).

According to the report, “bottles account for 30% of the market and are expected to grow an additional 28% through 2019.” On the other hand, cartons have grown rapidly over the last four years, expanding from 9% to 19% of the market during that time period. Plastic will remain dominant, growing 12% by 2019, according to PMMI Overall, consumers are seeking greater portability and sustainability in packaging, the report says. At the same time, mature markets such as North America and Europe will grow slower than Asia-Pacific and Latin America.

Plastic Alternative to Glass

Spectra

Spectra has launced a new glass polymer featuring the clarity of glass and the flexibility of rigid plastic.

The use of plastic can save on costs, waste, breakage and coloring limitations.

The “slightly uneven chunky base” is designed to simulate glass. The plastic is extrusion blow molded, offering the opportunity for bespoke designs. www.spectra-packaging.co.uk

Save the date!

June 13–15, 2016 Fontainebleau Resort Miami Beach, FL USA Produced by:

Presented by:

Registration Opens in October! wpc.perfumerflavorist.com/register www.GCImagazine.com

Packaging Innovations 49

MAIN INGREDIENTS Active Ingredient Delivery Base

Grant Industries’ Gransil SiW elastomer gels allow for the loading of high levels of polysilicone-11 elastomer into water-based gel structures using cold-processing methods and with minimal use of emulsifiers (below 0.5%).

The gels allow formulators to avoid skin irritation, barrier disruption, tackiness and other issues involved in formulating with high levels of surfactants.

According to Grand Industries, the gels offer energy efficiency and ease of use in formulation and manufacturing scale up, are “highly compatible” with commonly used rheology modifiers and provide the ideal vehicle for the delivery of active materials. www.grantinc.com

Ingredients now on the market

Sustainable Surfactants

BASF launched a range of surfactants based on certified sustainable palm oil and palm kernel oil from segregated and mass balance supply chain systems. The company also launched Texapon Ecolabelcertified surfactants for shampoos, shower gels, liquid soaps and bath products. The blend of coco sulfates and lauryl glucosides contains no preservatives, is mucous membrane compatible and possesses an active ingredient content of 60% for foaming performance. The blend can be processed without heating at 20°C, ensuring energy, cost and time efficiencies. www.basf.com

SUPPLIER NEWS Bayer (Leverkusen, Germany) announced the new name of its MaterialScience business will be Covestro. The move is effective September 1, 2015. Covestro will appear on the stock market by mid-2016.

Coast Southwest (Placentia, California) announced a national distribution agreement for the exclusive marketing and sales of CrossChem’s GlyAcid glycolic acid product line to the personal care market.

The Lubrizol Corp. (Cleveland) announced Active Organics botanical extracts and natural performance ingredients and technology will be promoted as a brand under the Lipotec umbrella, effective immediately. Lubrizol acquired Active Organics in 2011. Lubrizol acquired Lipotec in 2012, boosting its expertise in high-performance, claims-driving ingredients based on synthetic peptides, biotech and molecular science.

Gattefossé supported bee populations by installing three hives on its Saint-Priest, France, site. Each hive contains 50,000 bees raised in Pérouges (Ain). The move seeks to stem the 30% annual die-off rate of bees in France to support pollination of fruits, vegetables and oil seeds.

sustainability, Performance and Growth: Croda details expansion efforts Croda, which in May broke ground on its sustainable non-ionic surfactant production plant in New Castle, Delaware, recently offered insights into its recent activities and expansion efforts. The new $170-million facility, which will open in 2017, will allow the company to produce the ingredients from bio-ethanol, sidestepping traditional petroleum product feedstock, while pairing sustainability to performance for products such as toothpaste and face creams.

Meanwhile, the company’s 2012 acquisition of Istituto di Ricerche Biotecnologiche (IRB) allows Croda to access plant cell technology. According to the company, this technology allows it to use 80% less solvent in processing and reduce water consumption by a factor of 1,300x.

The expansion into sustainable non-ionic surfactants parallels Croda’s commitments to sustainable palm and palm kernel oils. By 2017, the company says it will only handle and supply Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO) certified palm oil products. Croda joined RSPO in 2006 and currently manufactures 200 ingredients from sustainable palm oils.

In the future, the company expects to evolve from mass balance, in which “certified palm oil is mixed in with conventional palm oil, but monitored administratively,” to segregated, in which “certified palm oil is kept apart throughout the supply chain.”

The company’s other sustainability efforts include the investment of $2.3 million in solar panels for its Atlas Point site to generate 5% of its electricity, and an investment of $8 million in a renewable energy project using landfill gas to generate electricity and steam. Combined, these projects generate about 70% of the site’s energy. In addition, Croda’s Atlas

Point facility achieved a 78% reduction in landfill waste by increasing the use of solid waste as fuel and increasing recycling.

Emerging Market Growth While boosting sustainability, Croda is also pursuing growth in emerging markets. For fiscal 2014, emerging markets comprised 37% of group sales.

The company found success by partnering with successful local partners, expanding manufacturing in China, India, Brazil, Singapore and Indonesia, and optimizing products for emerging markets.

Croda has so-far identified 24 markets with potential for expansion, though it is currently focused on countries such as Indonesia, Brazil, China, Iran and Colombia. Croda is able to leverage textile manufacturing facilities in some markets, limiting the need for large new construction.

Croda also invested in facilities in Brazil, Singapore, South Africa and the United States.

The Singapore site includes a formulation lab, product validation and claims support capabilities, and a salon for validating formulations and ingredients.

The company notes the importace of testing ingredients on a wide range of hair and skin types to ensure efficacy across markets and regions.

Edison Expansion The company also offered GCI a tour of its build-out of the Edison, New Jersey facility. The site expansion will boost lab space for more formulation work for customer starting points and inspiration, as well as additional claims testing.

50 Main Ingredients GCI July/August 2015

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Organiser - SoGeCos s.p.a. - Milan - Italy ph. +39.02.796.420 - fax +39.02.795.036 sogecos@cosmoprof.it - company of

in partnership with

in cooperation with

MAIN INGREDIENTS Skin Care Biotech

Greentech launched REVERSKIN, a skin volumator smoothing active for anti-ageing products. The ingredient speeds up the creation and stabilization of the dermo-epidermal junction, leaving it firmer and more elastic, with fine lines and wrinkles smoothed. The company also introduced AQUASILOILS, hydrosoluble oils for various skin care applications. eliminating the need for PEG in formulations. The ingredients reduce irritation risk and environmental impact and provide products with moisturization, soothing, repair, protection and collagen synthesis. The oils can have strong to low foaming and cleansing activities, depending on application. Variants of the oils can be applied to shampoo and cleansing lotions. www.greentech.fr

Iris-derived Anti-aging

Silab launched Iris ISO, an anti-aging active containing high levels of isoflavones derived from iris (Iris florentina). The ingredient reportedly preserves skin tone, fades wrinkles and strengthens barrier function by: preventing atrophy of the epidermis by limiting inflammation and stimulating cell renewal, preventing attenuation of the dermal-epidermal junction by boosting the synthesis of its components and improving its organization, and reducing alterations of the dermal matrix by maintaining the activity of fibroblasts and decreasing glycation. www.silab.fr

Skin Defense against Blue Light

Kemin conducted in vitro studies to confirm the bluelight-absorbing capacity of its plant-based FloraGLO Lutein Topical at different concentrations and concluded that the ingredient effectively shields the skin against highenergy visible (HEV) light.

HEV (also known as blue light) comprises natural light and man-made light to which humans are regularly exposed, particularly from electronic screens. www.kemin.com

Natural Salicylic Acid

Naturex introduced natural salicylic acid, which has antimicrobial, anti-sebum, antiinflammatory and keratolytic properties, which can provide benefits to acne treatments and exfoliants. Demonstrations indicate salicylic acid helps to remove dead cells and damaged skin. The ingredient can also provide whitening of skin.

Depending on the application, recommended inclusion levels range from 0.5–2.0%. www.naturex.com

Preserving Product Integrity

Lonza launched Geogard LSA preservative blend, a broad-spectrum antimicrobial designed to protect the integrity of personal-care products. The blend is non-GMO and is efficacious at a PH range of 3 through 6. www.lonza.com

Targeted Natural Solutions for Various Skin Types

Clariant released its Plantasens serums, which deliver nutrients and sensorial benefits to various skin types for face care and body care products, massage oils and scalp treatments. The moisturizers contain high levels of vitamins A and E, essential fatty acids, antioxidants (phytosterols) and olive unsaponifables. Plantasens Oat Serum targets dry skin with omega-6 and -9 fatty acids and offers good spreadability.

Plantasens Grape Serum delivers omega-6 fatty acid to oily/ combination skin to unblock pores, normalize oil gland functions and defend against transepidermal water loss. The serum also provides smooth sensory to formulations. Plantasens Avocado Serum, aimed at normal skin, delivers omega-9 fatty acids and antioxidants to provide hydration and smoothness, with a quick-absorbing, matte finish.

Plantasens Abyssinian Serum, for sensitive skin, contains antioxidants and omega-6 and -9, and offers an “ultra-light” smooth sensory effect. Plantasens Camelina, for sensitive skin, is rich in omega-3 fatty acids and regulates inflammatory response, soothes skin rashes and redness, and provides formulations with a quick-absorbing, silky sensory effect. www.clariant.com 52 Main Ingredients GCI July/August 2015

EVENTS july 2015

Products and SERVICES

showcase

CONTRACT MANUFACTURING

1-2 Naturals in Cosmetic Science London’s Royal College of Physicians www.naturalsconference.com

8 SCC Continuing Education Program: Preservatives New York www.scconline.org

8-10 PhilBeauty Philippines www.scconline.org www.philbeautyshow.com/home

12-14 Cosmoprof North America Las Vegas www.cosmoprofnorthamerica.com

15 SCC Continuing Education Program: Surfactants New York www.scconline.org

16 Navigating Your Career in the Beauty Industry New York www.cew.org

september 2015 21-23 IFSCC Conference 2015 Zurich, Switzerland www.ifscc2015.com

october 2015 14-15 SCC California Suppliers Day Long Beach, CA www.caliscc.org

To reserve space in this section, contact Kim Jednachowski kjednachowski@allured.com • 1-630-344-6054

Tom Harris tharris@allured.com • 1-201-445-4702

Jane Evison jane-evison@btconnect.com • 44(0)-1430-441685

www.GCImagazine.com

Products and Services Showcase 53

PRODUCTS and SERVICES

showcase CONTRACT MANUFACTURING

CONTRACT MANUFACTURING HEALTH • BEAUTY • OTC • HOUSEHOLD PRODUCTS A TOTAL SERVICE – Formulation to Drop Shipping Long and Short Runs FDA-EPA Registered Visit our web site at www.ecometics.com 19 Concord St., So. Norwalk, CT 06854

ECOMETICS INC. 203-853-7856

PACKAGING

PACKAGING

For quality custom reprints or e-prints, please contact:

Foster Printing Services 1-866-879-9144 sales@fosterprinting.com www.fosterprinting.com

54 Products and Services Showcase GCI July/August 2015

PACKAGING

SERVICES

To reserve space in this section, contact Kim Jednachowski • kjednachowski@allured.com, 1-630-344-6054 Tom Harris • tharris@allured.com, 1-201-445-4702 Jane Evison • jane-evison@btconnect.com, 44(0)-1430-441685

www.GCImagazine.com

Products and Services Showcase 55

Ad Index The Advertiser Index is provided as an additional service for readers to obtain information on companies and their products. The publisher assumes no liability for omissions or errors.

Page

Advertiser

Phone

WEB SITE

17

AMA Laboratories, Inc.

1-845-634-4330

www.amalabs.com

37

Baralan USA

1-718-849-1600

www.baralanusa.com

36

BASF

1-973-245-6000

www.carecreations.basf.com

13

Berjé, Inc.

1-973-748-8980

www.berjeinc.com

15

Bioscreen Testing Services

1-310-214-0043

www.bioscreen.com

35

Biosil Technologies, Inc.

1-201-825-8800

www.biosiltech.com

Bottle Coatings, Inc.

1-818-767-4477

www.bottlecoatings.com

40

Brownyard Group

1-631-666-5050

www.brownyard.com

Cover 4

Centerchem, Inc.

1-203-822-9800

www.centerchem.com

30

Classic Cosmetics, Inc

1-818-773-9042

www.classiccosmetics.com

7

Coast Southwest, Inc.

1-714-524-2777

www.coastsouthwest.com

3

Croda, Inc.

1-732-417-0800

www.crodausa.com

East Hill Industries, Inc.

1-972-367-6060

www.packagingcosmetics.com

Fusion Packaging

1-214-747-2004

www.fusionpkg.com

33

HCP Packaging

1-203- 924-2708

www.hcpackaging.com

31

Inoac Packaging Group, Inc.

1-502-348-5159

www.inoacusa.com

29

JSN Packaging Products, Inc.

1-949-458-0050

www.jsn.com

11

Lady Burd

1-800-345-3448

www.ladyburd.com

19

Lipotec, LLC

1-201-850-1213

www.lipotec.com

32

McKernan Packaging Clearing House

1-775-356-6111

www.mckernan.com

39

MMP, Inc.

1-908-561-4435

www.mmpinc.com

23

New High Glass

1-305-232-0840

www.newhigh.com

46

SCC California/Suppliers' Day

1-212-668-1500

www.caliscc.org

24

SCC Florida Chapter/Sunscreen Symposium

1-954-433-0618

www.flscc.org

52

SCC New York/Regulatory Symposium

1-845-639-4045

www.nyscc.org

51

Sogecos/Cosmopack

39-02-796-420

www.cosmoprof.com/cosmopack

25

SoGeCos/Cosmoprof Las Vegas

1-702-297-1060

www.cosmoprofnorthamerica.com

45

Spectra Colors Corp.

1-201-997-0606

www.spectracolors.com

Sun Deep Cosmetics, Inc.

1-800-985-2228

www.sundeepinc.com

47

Symrise

1-201-462-2966

www.symrise.com

34

The Beauty Company

1-202-686-4844

www.thebeautycompany.co

U.S. Nonwovens Corp.

1-631-952-0100

www.usnonwovens.com

Verla Int'l Ltd.

1-845-562-5542

www.verlainternational.com

Cover 3

49 Cover 2

9

Cover 1, 5 41

for advertising info Kim Jednachowski

Tom Harris

Jane Evison

Paige Crist

All US States Except NJ & PA kjednachowski@allured.com 1-630-344-6054

NJ & PA, Canada, Central & South America tharris@allured.com 1-201-445-4702

Europe & Asia jane-evison@btconnect.com 44-(0)-1430-441685

Fragrance pcrist@allured.com 1-630-730-9240

56 Ad Index GCI July/August 2015

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