concept development report

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CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT REPORT CONTENTS

TITLE

PAGE

INTRODUCTION 4 Ethos and Values 5 Branding and Aesthetics 6-7 MARKET RESEARCH 8-18 Macro- Environment Pestel Analysis 8-12 Micro-Environment Swot Analysis 13 Primary Questionnaire Results 14 Consumer Lifestyle Board 15 Direct Consumer 16 Indirect Consumer 17 Market Positioning 18 COMPETITOR ANALYSIS 19-40 Nicholas Kirkwood 19-22 Charlotte Olympia 23-26 Joanne Stoker 27-29 Marni 30-32 Miu Miu 33-36 Balenciaga 37-40

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APPENDICES 65-78 A - Logo Development 66 B - Questionnaire Results 67-71 C - Further Consumer Research 72 D - Competitor Comparison 73 E - Supplier Contact Information 74 F - Business Plan After 5 Years 75-76 G - Web Layout 77 H - Store Location 78

THE RANGE 41-47 Range Plan 41-42 Price Architecture 43 Production Chain 44 Supply Chain 45 Suppliers 46 Critical Path 47 DISTRIBUTION 48-53 Sales Distribution 48 Online Stockists 49-50 Department Stores 51-52 Boutiques 53 CONCLUSION AND RECOMMENDATIONS

BIBLIOGRAPHY 79-86 Books 79 Web 80-81 Image Referencing 82-86

54-55

PRODUCT CONCEPT 56-64 Concept 56-57 Colour 58-59 Materials 60-61 AW 13/14 Trends - Materials 62-63 AW 13/14 Trends -Key Details 64

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WORD COUNT:4,391 3


INTRODUCTION

Synonymous with elegance, innovation, and flair, ZEHRA GAZILER is a high end, luxury designer brand which pushes boundaries without comprising on style. Fascinated by contrasting elements, ZEHRA GAZILER aesthetically encapsulates opposition, opening up a riot of texture, colour and energy. Cool, contemporary masterpieces are born that become walking works of art.

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ETHOS AND VALUES QUALITY

Quality is paramount, and impeccable attention to detail is at the heart of the brand. With components and skins individually selected from the finest and most highly skilled Italian craftsmen, each shoe will be carefully constructed into unique product.

CREATIVITY

ZEHRA GAZILER thrives off of creativity, believing that the impossible is always possible and lives in a limitless world. Embracing innovation, the brand aims to excel beyond conventional footwear to form fresh, never-seen-before product.

ORIGINALITY

ZEHRA is a trend setter, with strong beliefs of keeping its originality through signature styling, unique material selection, and sculptural heel shapes.

AFFORDABLE LUXURY

More affordable than well established luxury brands, keeping prices a fraction lower than its competitors to act as an additional influential factor of purchase.

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BRANDING AND AESTHETICS

“A common misconception – and one that designers are always at pains to correct – is that a brand is simply a logo or identity. The logo is just one manifestation of a brand, although it’s often a top-level communication, seen most frequently by the greatest number of people. It should therefore embody the key ingredients of the brand in a distinctive, recognisable marque”. - Designcouncil.org.uk Business and Public Sector As the above quote states, branding is crucial for a new emerging designer. It: •Provides a visual cue to convey messages to consumers • Directs customers buying behaviour • Differentiates it from it’s competitors • Provides brand equity to the company • Facilitates additional product benefits by representing an image and providing status

BRAND LOGO SEE APPENDIX A FOR LOGO DEVELOPMENT

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ZEHRA GAZILER has been developed from the designer’s name so that it is instantly recognised as a new and emerging brand, true to its ethos and values.

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Using modern, bold font, ZG is represented as being contemporary, fresh and edgy. The placement of dots to replicate missing lines of each letter convey a complementary balance and an innovative take on branding.

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BRANDING AND AESTHETICS SPECIAL DETAILS SOCK DETAIL Socks will be embossed to keep the brand looking clean and fresh. The colour may be subject to change dependent on season. SOLE DETAIL

Gold enamelled initials with the placement of diamanté studs to present the brand as luxury, paying special attention to detail.

PACKAGING ZEHRA GAZILER will invest in its packaging and challenge the appearance of the conventional shoe box, taking inspiration from the following brands below that have already done so.

Adidas running shoe opening from the sides and with a handle to save on carrier bags

Society27 with cut out 27 as a feature and made from plywood

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Fisherman’s creativity ‘waterproof ’ packaging

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PureProject challenging the shape of the shoebox

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MACRO-ENVIRONMENT

PESTEL ANALYSIS

For a new luxury brand setting up it is imperative to analyse the macro-environment in order to gain understanding and raise awareness of what external factors are affecting the market.

POLITICAL •The coalition government increasing the cap on tuition fees to £9,000 from £3,375 could have long term effects of spending habits in the future as well as forcing many students to reconsider applying to degree courses. If salaries do not increase with the rise in taxation and other increasing costs, consumer spending habits may change considerably and will have a damaging effect on the fashion industry.

“We are committed to developing excellence and growth in a sector that is a significant contributor to the British economy, we nurture, support and promote British Fashion Talent to a global market” - British Fashion Council,2012 •The British Government is working with the British Fashion Council to support emerging talent and are running schemes such as NewGen and NESTA in order to provide financial and business support for emerging fashion designers in the UK. The brand could seek these benefits of business training and receive substantial press coverage acting as a promotional platform.

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MACRO-ENVIRONMENT ECONOMICAL “ S pending intentions remain strong, particularly among high earners”

(Clark,Mintel:2012)

•The economy remains stagnant and likely to avoid a double-dip recession, showing tentative signs of consumer confidence stabilising. •Unemployment rates continue to decline by “50,000 to 2.53 million in the three months to August, taking the jobless rate down to 7.9% from 8.1%” (BBC Online, 2012) A combination of more jobs being created and more people entering the workforce is promising for consumer spending habits. •Inflation has risen to 2.7% from October to November 2012 having a knock on effect on the Consumer Price Index. This can act as a drag on productivity as companies are forced to shift resources away from products and services in order to focus on profit and losses from currency inflation. (Taylor, T:2008:56). As a result, this can impose hidden tax increases, as inflated earnings push taxpayers into higher income tax rates.

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MACRO-ENVIRONMENT SOCIAL •Society has seen a rise in the 25-34 age group, and this demographic group are ‘keen buyers of luxury goods and have greater disposable income to make regular high-end purchases, believing that luxury items are worthy of their premium price tags’ (Clifford,Mintel:2011)

•Socio-economic shifts present opportunities for the AB consumer, forecast to grow by 6% to 14.8 million, an increase of 0.9 million UK adults(Bollon,Mintel 2011). These shoppers have the greatest financial cover to make discretionary purchases. •Online shopping has increased dramatically, reaching total online sales of ‘£660 million in 2011, representing 8.3% of the total market’(Monk,Mintel:2012). This is expected to more than double by 2016, highlighting online sales as a crucial area to embrace. •Celebrity is an important influence to customers and are helping retailers boost sales. Within our celebrity culture today famous faces are constantly used as muses to fashion brands from luxury to high street labels, and websites like show are specifically created for consumers to check what brands their favourite icons are wearing.

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MACRO-ENVIRONMENT

TECHNOLOGICAL •Technology-enabled self service and in store features such as free Wi-fi, QR codes and

digital shelf edge pricing are bridging the gap between a retailers virtual and physical world. Forward thinking companies such as Marks and Spencers has been an ‘advocate of multichannel since it launched its mobile epitomised site in 2010, doubling internet sales by 1 billion by 2014’ (Preston,Mintel:2012)

“The brands that excel in the fashion industry of the future will be the ones that engage with new channels’ (Lee,Harpers Bazaar:2011) •Apps on I-Phones and Smart Phones are changing how consumers shop. The Mulberry App allows consumers to shop directly from their look book, watch seasonal catwalk videos, and sharing favourite finds through social media sites like Facebook,Twitter and Pinterest.

•Fashion sites such as Polyvore places ‘social’ at the centre of their strategies and have over 17 million unique visitors every month (Sadri,Polyvore 2011). Through a proprietary technology, visitors are able to create a look through dropping items of clothing from an enormous online catalogue, with visitors being able to comment, like, and connect.

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MACRO-ENVIRONMENT ENVIRONMENTAL •Brands such as Terra Plana and Toms are leading the way for ethically produced shoes, however most of the footwear industry has little interest in the environment and the affect their company has on it. Women aged between 16-40 found a ‘generation transformed; the economy has

now replaced the environment as a women’s greatest concern and their behaviour and attitudes to money have changed significantly’ (Rumsey,WGSN:2012)

•DEFRA – The Department for Environment Food and Rural affairs supports local businesses and their environmental approach, aiming to have a green economy providing support to businesses through recycling schemes and grants.

•UK climate changes are affecting the range composition of brands; cold winters are likely to in-

crease the demand for boots, while a warmer climate in general may reduce boot sales all together.

LEGAL • Copyright laws stating a product has to have seven points of difference to existing products to avoid being sued by another company. • The Sales of Goods Act 1979 states “goods must be as described, of satisfactory quality, and fit for purpose”. Failure to do so may have crippling effect on the business. Factory visits will be made at least once per season to ensure quality control is closely monitored before being delivered to the UK.

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MICRO ENVIRONMENT SWOT ANALYSIS

After thorough research in to the Macro-Environment, all points discussed will be considered and applied appropriately in a SWOT analysis to highlight the strengths, weakness, opportunities and threats of the business.

•Introducing a new,influential collection in to the high end market sector. •Defined identity that is distinguishable and wearable. •London based, easily accessible via tube and convenient for industry links. •Greater chances of recognition by press and customers with fresh new product in stores.

STRENGTHS

•May struggle to gain customer loyalty, as a new brand with no previous reputation. •Lack of establishment may affect supplier relations. •Struggle to use desired materials if suppliers have minimum quantities on orders •No current relationship with press. •Sourcing in Italy and Spain means there is less frequent contact with production due to travel costs and time. •Own brand fashion start ups are high risk ventures with equity from an internal source difficult as the level of return is unpredictable with commodities.

WEAKNESSES

OPPORTUNITIES

THREATS

•Collaborations with designers to generate publicity and custom •Celebrity fans bringing business to many UK brands. •Horizontal growth through expanding product range to include small accessories and other entry level products. •Out source manufacturing to reduce capital expenditure costs •Social networking sites like Facebook and Twitter used for mouse marketing. •Distributing product to wholesalers to boost and maximize sales •Funding bodies such as NESTA, and NCGE able to support the business.

•Government cuts will soon start to filter through, meaning public sector job losses and higher taxes. •Unstable financial factors such as the VAT rate and Euro to Pound exchange will affect production costs, overheads and other outgoings that will essentially rise product price. •The Euro zone debt crisis is weighing heavily on the banking sector, affecting fixed rate mortgages and reluctance to lend money. •The footwear market is a highly competitive area, and there are many brands providing similar products at a variety of prices.

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PRIMARY QUESTIONNAIRE RESULTS

Chart Title

SEE APPENDIX B FOR FULL QUESTIONNAIRE STATISTICS

To aid understanding of consumers and their needs, a questionnaire was completed by 57 people, aged 18-60. Results revealed strong trends, with 72% identifying that there is a gap in the market for a luxury designer brand that has something unique and original to offer. 64% of corespondents which replied ‘No’ stated that Nicholas Kirkwood had a similar product range to what was described, indicating him as a major competitor that must be looked in to in considerable depth. When asked what was considered most important when purchasing designer footwear, the ranking’s conveyed that style and aesthetics were the first most important influential factor. Price was then followed by quality and durability, indicating that consumers seek comfort and longevity of product at the compromise of the price.

Chart Title

Semi-anually 7%

Quarterly 37%

53% of corespondents states that they shop monthly for shoes, showing a positive spending attitude as well as there being a demand for footwear. This also is a good indication for range building, and the phasing of products. 6 Rate of Importance

Yearly 3%

Monthly 53%

No 28%

Yes 72%

Q1- Do you feel there is a gap in the luxury footwear that offers cool and contemporary designs that are edgy yet quirky?

Q7 - Which attribute is most important to you?

5 4 3 2 1 0

Q7 - How often do you purchase a pair of shoes? Attribute

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CONSUMER LIFESTYLE BOARD

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DIRECT CONSUMER

SEE APPENDIX C FOR FURTHER CONSUMER RESEARCH

CUSTOMER PROFILE •An independent, wealthy consumer aged 25-45 working within a Professional Creative Industry. •Career driven, lives in the heart of a metropolitan city, with an average income level of 35K-65K •Purchases clothes that beautifully flatter her figure, and interesting accessories reflect her cool and confident personality. •A lover of texture and creatively adorns her body with scrumptious pieces. •Elements of urban street styling in her outfit combinations. •Believes in investment pieces and shops for products that will last. • Has a disposable income of 1-2K a month, and on average £400-£1100 of this is spent on designer footwear. •Shopping is her favourite hobby, and visits stand alone stores and department stores once a week. •Loves to travel with close friends and family and explore different places. •Wears a variety of heel heights ranging from flat-high, depending on the occasion. Always wears high heels in the evenings when socialising with friends and colleagues in trendy bars at the heart of the city. 16

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INDIRECT CONSUMER

CUSTOMER PROFILE •A prosperous, educated professional aged between 16-24 •Lives in towns close to the city centre, and Oxford Street is her haven. •Strongly influenced by trends, brands, and innovation, and religiously follows her favourite fashion bloggers to imitate the latest looks. •A household income between £16-£35K a month •Typically spends between £200-£400 on a designer pair of shoes every 2-3 months. •Purchases mainly flat designer shoes and platform sandals. Loves wearing these on a daily basis to raise her social status.

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MARKET POSITIONING

A Market Positioning map has been created in order to convey the brands placement against its competitors and to successfully reflect an accurate interpretation of the consumers perception of the brand. HIGH PRICE

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CONCEPTUAL

COMMERCIAL

KEY DIRECT COMPETITORS INDIRECT COMPETITORS

ZEHRA GAZILER’s Competitors are those who are closest to it’s brand values and its product. To ensure the brand has a unique selling point and is not just a ‘me too’ brand, these brands are fully analysed so that ZEHRA GAZILER remains unique and innovative.

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NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD - DIRECT COMPETITOR SEE APPENDIX D FOR FULL COMPETITOR COMPARISONS

ARCHITECTURAL EDGY

SCULPTURAL

INNOVATIVE

MODERN

ICONIC

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NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD CUSTOMER PROFILE •Wide age appeal between 18-50 •Bold, confident character with a quirky sense of styling • Wants desirable, sexy, statement footwear • Celebrity who personifies the brand: ker ica-Par s s e J h Sara

•Known for being a huge Style Icon and the first to pick up on trends

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DESIGNER PROFILE Graduate from Central Saint Martins and Cordwainers, Kirkwood launched his first collection in Spring 2005 and is now at the forefront of footwear design. U.S.P: •Blends architectural style construction techniques with super lux materials and finishes •Craftsmanship plays an integral part in the brand •Signature vertiginous heel •Original every season

AW12 PRODUCT RANGE RANGE

FLATS

COURTS OPEN COURT SANDALS

ANKLE BOOT HIGH BOOT

QUANTITY

5

20

9

17

21

1

PRICE ENTRY

£460

£620

£475

£595

£595

£1950

PRICE EXIT

£595

£695

£1125

£895

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NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD WEB LAYOUT

STORE LAYOUT

•Minimal, easy to navigate. •Monochrome colouring, making Kirkwood’s collection stand out.

COLLABORATIONS

ERDEM 2012

KEITH HARING 2010

PETER PILOTTO 2012

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Location: 5 Mount Street, London •Clean, spacious, layout reflecting a modern, contemporary brand. •Shoes being the centrepiece, decorating shelves walls and sofas, each appreciated like a work of art. •Shoes are merchandised in stories, clearly offering the customer similar styles at different heel heights. 21


NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD STOCKISTS SWEDEN CANADA

USA

MEXICO

DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

POLAND UKRAINE UK GERMANY LUXEMBOURG SWITZERLAND FRANCE MONACO CROATIA TURKEY SPAIN ITALY CYPRUS GREECE KUWAIT QATAR UAE

KOREA CHINA

JAPAN

HONG KONG THAILAND MALAYSIA INDONESIA SINGAPORE

ONLINE STOCKISTS: Barney’s New York Bergdorf Goodman Browns Colette Maria Luisa Online My Theresa Luisa Via Roma Neiman Marcus Net-a-Porter Nordstrom Saks Fifth Avenue

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RUSSIA

AUSTRALIA

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CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA - DIRECT COMPETITOR ATTENTION TO DETAIL

GLAMOROUS

ULTRA FEMININE

QUIRKY SOPHISTICATED- FUN

LUXURIOUS

ORIGINALITY

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CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA DESIGNER PROFILE •Charlotte Olympia Dellal graduated from Cordwainers in 2004 and launched her label in 2008 •Her designs fuse classic shapes with meticulous detailing, each finished with the brands signature trademark, the gold web spider on the sole. •Inspired by the 40’s and is the essence of the brand - a glamorous, bygone era rich with accessories.

24-35

PRODUCT

STYLISH

TOTAL ECLIPSE £525

DESIREE £595

PIERROT £1295

LADYLUCK £795

VALERIE £925

PRODUCT RANGE RANGE QUANTITY PRICE ENTRY PRICE EXIT

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FLATS

COURTS

2

26

3

8

5

1

£595

£595

£675

£565

£695

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£955

£795

£1295

£1095

£1295

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WEDGE COURTS

SANDALS ANKLE BOOT HIGH BOOT

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FEMININE

QUIRKY


CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA STORE LAYOUT

GO ND LO

A NG BR O R T S

“It’s Charlotte’s Web! It’s almost too obvious. In addition to that, a spiderweb can be quite beautiful and is recognised universally. Branding was important to me from the beginning”

•Shoes are suspended on metal stands, with low lights beaming on to each one

Charlotte Olympia,2008

ADD ONS

• Brand growth in to accessories, maximising sales and profitability.

Store Location: 56 Maddox Street, London

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CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA

WEB LAYOUT:

•Offers Bridal products to a niche target audience, with ‘free’ hosiery and shoe trees for a personal customer experience.

BRIDAL COLLECTION

•Promotion of SS13 collection, making customers feel exclusive and creates a buzz.

•Consumers can connect and interact.

BEST SELLERS

•Awards indicate the success of the designer, reassuring first time visitors that the brand can be trusted.

•Signature Island Heel is a continuous Best Seller each season - repeating a style and changing the materials almost guarantees that the product will be a hit. •Kitty Flats are widely recognised as being a Charlotte Olympia shoe - playful, quirky designs get instant press coverage.

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JOANNE STOKER - INDIRECT COMPETITOR ORIGINALITY

INNOVATIVE ATTENTION TO DETAIL ARCHITECTURAL SCULPTURAL CRAFTSMANSHIP

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JOANNE STOKER DESIGNER PROFILE • Graduate of Cordwainers College in 2009 and award winning designer • Inspired by revolutionary construction work, world travel and ornamental pieces •Signature rectangular heel and use of interesting materials

“To create beautiful and conceptual shoes, stepping out to astound and delight” Joanne Stoker, 2011

26-40 CREATIVE INDUSTRY QUIRKY

PRODUCT

ORNATE

STATEMENT FASHION RANGE

COURTS

SANDALS

OPEN COURT

ANKLE BOOT

QUANTITY

1

1

4

2

PRICE ENTRY

£475

£395

£475

£589

PRICE EXIT

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£660

£689

LOVER OF TEXTURE

Joanne Stoker has a very small range, and specialises in high heeled shoes. Her interesting use of materials do not fail to astound, using Perspex, luxurious velvets, yummy patents, and exotic skins. 28

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FLAMBOYANT


JOANNE STOKER COLLABORATIONS •Collaborations with Matthew Williamson broadens brand awareness and appeal • Ethical stance reflected by the use of collaboration with Toms, a brand whose profits are split between a charity.

PUBLICATIONS CELEBRITY

•Nicki Minaj, a worldwide artist in the pop music industry wearing Joanne Stoker shoes in her 2012 music video release of Starships.

•Huge press coverage in popular magazines Vogue and Elle. Reflection of target audience and a key tool for success.

•Celebrity promotion reaching the masses as an excellent marketing tool for instant recognition.

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MARNI - INDIRECT COMPETITOR ICONIC INDIVIDUALISTIC

AVANT-GARDE

SOPHISTICATED LUXURY 30

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MARNI Marni was launched an iconic luxury, eclectic clothing and accessories collection in 1994 by Consuelo and Gianni Castiglioni. An avant-garde spirit balancing exceptionally-crafted ready-to-wear with a complete line of accessories. Consuelo’s modern approach to materials and silhouette, juxtaposing colour, exclusive prints and textures has resulted in a new, unique form of functionality.

CONSUMER •Metropolitan Professional aged 26-35 •Unconventional, daring, not afraid to dress to make a statement. •Slightly androgynous styling, but loves bold colour and projects this in her outfit choices.

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AW12 FULL PRODUCT RANGE RANGE

FLATS

COURTS

FLAT SANDALS

HEELED SANDALS

WEDGES

ANKLE BOOT

HIGH BOOT

WELLIES

QUANTITY

19

18

11

3

11

2

2

5

PRICE ENTRY

£270 £370

£170

£430

£370

£340

£410

£85

PRICE EXIT

£470 £470

£350

£460

£410

£350

£470

£235

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MARNI STOCKISTS

UK SWITZERLAND FRANCE ITALY SPAIN LEBANON

CANADA

CHINA

KOREA JAPAN

DUBAI THAILAND TAIWAN SINGAPORE AUSTRALIA

STORES •Designed by Sybarite, inspired by a cracking whip suspended in mid air. •Fantastic colour use, playing an important role in store space. •Organic sculptural elements creates a unique sense of visual connectivity that encourages customer exploration.

LONDON,SLOANE SQUARE

THE CRYSTALS, LAS VEGAS

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MIU MIU - INDIRECT COMPETITOR ULTRA FEMININE SUPER-CHIC PROVOCATIVE STYLE

FEMME FATALE MODERN SENSUAL AVANT-GARDE LUXURIOUS FREEDOM

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MIU MIU Miuccia Prada launched Miu Miu in 1993 as a lower-priced offshoot to her signature line. Offering up a riot of print, pattern, colour and energy, Miu Miu’s eclectic approach to the hottest trends secures its place as a style super brand.

“Miu Miu wants her own room now; she doesn't care anymore if Prada thinks she's tacky. She's a little overweight and doesn't give a damn. She knows how to party, defy parental supervision and skinny-dip in hotel pools.” Cintra Wilson, The New York Times, 2007

CUSTOMER

AW12 PRODUCT RANGE 16-28 SOCIALITE

QUIRKY-CHIC

RANGE

SLIPPERS/ BALLERINA COURTS LOAFERS

OPEN COURTS

SANDALS

TRAINERS

ANKLE BOOTS

QUANTITY

8

7

10

16

2

9

2

PRICE ENTRY

£325

£335

£360

£360

£460

£295

£590

PRICE EXIT

£515

£430

£450

£455

--------- £420

MATERIALS: LEATHER, VELVET,SUEDE,GLITTER,SATIN LACE, METAL TOECAPS

AW 12 PRODUCT BUBBLY PERSONALITY

ULTRA-FEMININE

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MIU MIU ICONIC HEELS

ADD ONS

•Swarovski crystals used frequently as embellishment across the range. •Styles with signature detailing that becomes iconic for the brand.

•Valentine’s Capsule Collection to maximise sales, a good idea to make the most of seasonal occasions.

PACKAGING •Ultra feminine colour usage to reflect the brands image. •Luxurious gold print inside, adding a sense of sheer lux •Corresponding bags to boxes.

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MIU MIU

STOCKISTS RUSSIA

UK GERMANY FRANCE SPAIN

USA

MOROCCO

SWITZERLAND ITALY

TURKEY UAE KUWAIT

CHINA KOREA JAPAN

HK MACAO

TAIWAN

MALAYSIA SINGAPORE

“I am sure a store can’t get more lustrous or colourful than this pretty little thing, but I suppose the purpose of the Miu Miu candy store is just to make you feeling pure lust”

BRAZIL AUSTRALIA

Katri, London 2012

STORES

LONDON STORE

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LAS VEGAS STORE

ITALY STORE

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BALENCIAGA - DIRECT COMPETITOR ECCENTRIC

EDGY

TREND SETTER

AVANT-GARDE

FUTURISTIC SCULPTURAL

WHIMSICAL

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BALENCIAGA

Started in 1918, Balenciaga is iconic for its dramatic, sculptural silhouettes. Experimentation with volume and proportion, and a reoccurring fascination, Balenciaga works with no narrative, marking the brand as a true trend setter.

“The genius of Balenciaga is Ghesquière's projection of couture techniques into the world of new technology. A crude stab at describing it might be 'sci-fi couture,' but the truth is his mind-set renders stock fashion vocabulary redundant” - Sarah Mower, Style Magazine 2010

CONSUMER 24-45

PRODUCT RANGE

NON-CONFORMIST

FEARLESS

RANGE

FLAT ANKLE BOOT

HEELED ANKLE BOOT

HIGH BOOT

OPEN COURT

COURT

SANDAL

QUANTITY

2

7

2

2

2

2

PRICE ENTRY

£635

£675

£765

£495

£455

£495

PRICE EXIT

£795

£1215

£855

£585

£495

£585

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INDEPENDENT

DISTINCTIVE

FASHION FORWARD 38

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BALENCIAGA STORES • Each has it’s own concept forming a unique environment that adapts to the specific space and location.

STOCKISTS

CANNES B

OUTIQUE

RUSSIA FRANCE GREECE CYPRUS ITALY QATAR LEBANON

CHINA

SAUDI ARABIA

HONG KONG

E PARIS BOUTIQU

PHILIPPINES MALAYSIA

SINGAPORE

INDONESIA LONDON BOUTI QU

E

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BALENCIAGA Lego Shoe Autumn/Winter 2007

Embossed Carreaux Stiletto Boot Autumn/Winter 2011 Block Heel Court Autumn/Winter 2010

CELEBRITY STATUS

STATEMENT FOOTWEAR Balenciaga is known for creating statement footwear that is original and unconventional. Above are some examples of Autumn Winter product styles that push the boundaries of aesthetically conventional footwear.

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Beyonce wearing Balenciaga shoes, actively promoting the brand and reflecting Balenciaga to be on Beyonce fan’s wish list

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RANGE PLAN STYLE

LAST

HEEL HEIGHT

INNOVATIVE

STATEMENT MAINSTREAM QUANTITY PRICE LEVEL

FLAT

FLAT

ENTRY/MID

1

ENTRY

2

MID/HIGH END

MID FLAT

TRAINER

2

MID MID

COURT

HIGH MID

SANDAL

3

MID/HIGH END/ ULTRA

HIGH

3

MID/HIGH END/ ULTRA

MID

1

HIGH MID

ANKLE BOOT

HIGH BOOT

HIGH END

HIGH

ZEHRA GAZILER’S First AW13/14 Collection will consist of 12 products that will all form a clear, cohesive range reflecting the inspiration of the season. With ranging heel heights and lasts, the collection is aimed to have something different to offer across the brand.

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RANGE PLAN The range has been carefully considered and divided in to sub categories to meet the requirements of the 2 consumers identified.

INNOVATION

Limited edition pieces which are aimed to be the most talked about products of the season, capturing the attention of press and bloggers around the world.

INNOVATION

STATEMENT

PRESS PIECES LIMITED EDITION

Key pieces that capture the signature essence of the brand. With towering heel heights, unusual material mixes, and never seen before constructions, these styles will cater to a consumer who longs for originality and creativity in what she wears.

STATEMENT KEY PIECES, BEST SELLER, PRODUCT THAT ATTRACTS THE CUSTOMER

MAINSTREAM

MAINSTREAM

Designed for the consumer who wants luxury shoes at a more affordable, commercial level. Trends of the season will be considered for this tier, however will not be the driving force of the brand.

TONED DOWN, MORE COMMERCIAL PRODUCT ZEHRA GAZILER’s collection will be unique and individual, and will have a signature piece dependant on the best seller of the season. This best seller will be updated each season with different material mixes and upper patterns. In order to remain successful as a business and create as many sales possible, trends will be considered and implemented in to the range. This will not be a key focus of design inspiration to the brand, but only act to create awareness of what is to come and use what is fitting for the brand. 42

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PRICE ARCHITECTURE 1-2 INNOVATIVE

ULTRA

3-4 STATEMENT

HIGH-END

MID -LEVEL

ENTRY

3 STATEMENT/ MAINSTREAM

3 STATEMENT/ MAINSTREAM

£950-£1250

£610-£950

£450-£610

£260-£450

ZEHRA GAZILER’s pricing reflects the high quality materials used within the range. With goods being produced in Italy and attention to detail being paramount, the full cost variation between all products range between £260 - £1250. Consideration has been taken for direct and indirect consumers purchasing with different motives and has been divided in to four tiers. Price points have been compared to its competitors and have a similar range variation across each sector.

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PRODUCTION CHAIN Research trends and catwalk collection. Produce own trend for the season

Product photoshoot for line sheets, look book, and use on web

Arrange sales appointments with buyers and set up at shows

Visit Lineapelle in Bologna for materials, hardware and units

Samples are confirmed and purchase order is placed

Press samples received from the factory and sent out for editorial pieces with various publications

Develop a collection using sourced materials and previous ideas and refine designs

Factory visit to check on product development and quality

Wholesale orders are processed with the factory and sent directly to them

Send spec sheets to suppliers allowing 2 weeks for samples to be developed and sent back

Sample Development sheet is sent back to the supplier, visually noting fit and material errors

Stock processed by retailers and put on the sales floor/web space

Review response from the season from editorial, buyers, customers and sales

The production process has been planned step by step to ensure effective time management. Lead times for production of 4-6 weeks and budgets are considered so that product is delivered without fail. 44

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Initial samples are received and fitted. Necessary adjustments to fit and aesthetics are noted

Product Sales

Sold to Customer


SUPPLY CHAIN

A supply chain has been constructed and consists of all parties directly and indirectly involved, to secure customer satifaction with delivery of product. LEATHER AND TRIM SUPPLIERS

HEAD OFFICE

VARIABLE COST MARGIN DEPENDANT ON SUPPLIER

COMPONENT SUPPLIERS

BUYERS

TRADE SHOWS

COST NEGOTIATION,

LINEAPELLE, LE CUIR

PROFIT MARGINS SECURED

DELIVERY TO WAREHOUSE

TO APPLY TO STANDARD REGULATIONS

DELIVER TO

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ORDER PROCESSING

MANUFACTURER

DELIVER TO

RETAIL

FREIGHT COSTS (ROAD/SEA/AIR) DEPENDANT ON WEIGHT,PRODUCT, AND MANUFACTURERS LOCATION

QUALITY CHECK AND PACKAGING

WHOLESALE

SHIPMENT METHOD

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SUPPLIERS

SEE APPENDIX E FOR SUPPLIER AND MANUFACTURER CONTACT INFORMATION COMPONENTS HARDWARE HEEL UNITS

SUPPLIER

MANUFACTURER

S&K GAMAR

SALVADOR SAPENA RIERA

ROB FOYCETT

LASTS

SPRING LINE

TRIMS

CAPITAL GLORY INDUSTRIES

CORBI

ABIP

ILCIGNO

LA GARZARARA ITALY

PELLAMI LOPEL

MATERIALS LEATHER

SYSTON COMPONENTS

LARTIGIANA BOTTONI

V.M EXPORT

CLUBSHOES

ERRE GH LEATHERS

KEY: ITALY

EXOTICS

TEXTILES

DOLMEN JUANPROVEDA

SPAIN EUSTAQUIO CA NTO

UK suppliers will initially be used to ensure aesthetic demands are met. When heel moulds and lasts have been developed, ZEHRA GAZILER will use overseas suppliers to reduce long term expenditure costs. 46

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FAR EAST UK


CRITICAL PATH

SEE APPENDIX F FOR CRITICAL PATH AFTER 5 YEARS OF GROWTH MONTH ACTIVITY

AUG

SEP

OCT

NOV

DEC

JAN

FEB

MAR

MAY

JUN

JUL

Le Cuir Trend and Inspiration Research Competitor Review/UK shopping Lineapelle Design-Material/Concept/Details Board Send out Design Packs to manufacturers Receive Samples Range Build collection Range Plan - Transitional/Phase 1 Range Plan - Phase 2 Shoot AW Graphics

KEY Design Activities

A critical path will help map out the vital stages from beginning to end. This will be the bible of the business and be followed religiously to ensure a successful first launch.

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Trade Fairs Merchandising Activities

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SALES DISTRIBUTION RUSSIA

CANADA UK FRANCE

USA

SPAIN MEXICO

GERMANY ITALY GREECE

DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

CHINA

HONG KONG

QATAR UAE

THAILAND

SINGAPORE

KEY Year 1-2

Europe

Year 3

Middle East

Year 4 -5

North/South America

Year 5-6

Asia/Australia

MALAYSIA INDONESIA

AUSTRALIA

ZEHRA GAZILER will be distributed to department stores, boutiques, and online in Europe, then aim to expand to other countries and continents between 5-6 years. The brand will carefully select locations that suit its customer demographic, and position itself against its’ competitors.

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TURKEY

KOREA JAPAN

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E-commerce will play a major contributing factor at the beginning of the business, as profit margins can be secured initially with wholesale orders. When income becomes steady, ZEHRA GAZILER will begin to open its own stores in major parts of the World.

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ONLINE STOCKISTS

SEE APPENDIX G FOR BRANDS E-COMMERCE PAGE As e-commerce is booming, embracing online sales and stockists is key to developing the business.

NET-A-PORTER •Launched in 2000, Net-A-Porter is the World’s Premier Online Luxury Fashion Retailer. •Offers instant access to the hottest looks of the season from international cutting-edge labels. •Worldwide delivery. •2.5 Million viewers a month.

MYTHERESA •Launched in 2006, now one of the world’s leading online stores for luxury. •Philosophy of offering edit pieces that are on trend. •Features 160 top international designers. •Offer styling tips, fashion advise, and worldwide express delivery with free delivery and exchanges. •Offer exclusive pre-shopping events

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ONLINE STOCKISTS BERGDORF GOODMAN • Based in 5th Avenue Manhattan New York, now developed in to an online luxury retailer. • Has a unique ‘shoe salon’ section offering the customer a special experience. • Special ‘Shoe App’ so visitors can purchase shoes instantly.

LUISA VIA ROMA • Started in 1930 as a store in Florence, now developed in to an online luxury fashion retailer with 3 million visitors per month. •Features prestigious,avant-garde, and fresh young designers • Collections are available in advance for pre-order. • “Buy it First” scheme for fashion aware customers. • Exclusive collaborations by designers with this website only. •Have stated a new project called LIMIT.Edition with new, emerging designers who are starting up in the industry.

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DEPARTMENT STORES

Positioning ZEHRA GAZILER in well established department stores will dramatically increase brand recognition, sales, and contribute towards the growth of the brand. Selfridges, London, has the World’s Largest Shoe Department of 35,000 square foot, showcasing 120 designers, affordable to luxury, and over 5,000 pairs of shoes.

POP UP BOUTIQUES

WINDOW DISPLAYS

Kobi Levi, London 2012

Chloe Jade Green, London 2012

• Supports up and coming new designers by having pop up boutiques in their shoe lounge. • Instant recognition through window displays. • An ideal location at a central touristic part of London’s very busy Oxford Street. • Easy accessible with various nearby bus stops and 2 major tube stations.

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DEPARTMENT STORES LON DON LO

Harvey Nichols is a leading international luxury fashion destination, stocking the world’s most exclusive brands in fashion. Located near Knightsbridge, Harvey Nichols has an influx of super-rich holiday makers, and an increasing Arabic consumer by 66% a year. The brand being available here will become internationally recognised, and create a demand for ZEHRA GAZILER.

WINDOW DISPLAYS

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BOUTIQUE AND SPECIALITY STORES

SEE APPENDIX H FOR BRANDS LOCATION

MATCHES

Matches has the best of cutting-edge, international luxury fashion for men and women, with 14 different stores around London’s chicest neighbourhoods; Marylebone, Nottinghill, Richmond and Wimbledon.

Dover Street Market is a multilevel fashion retail store featuring the best in cutting edge designs. Created by Rei Kuwakubo of Japanese fashion label Comme Des Garcons, designers such as Erdem, Peter Pilotto and Alaia are all under one roof.

Matches upholds a dedication to creativity, personality and attention to detail as much to the advantage of the product it offers as to the customer buying it

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CONCLUSION AND RECOMMENDATIONS

In conclusion, ZEHRA GAZILER has thoroughly considered internal and external factors that may affect the business by looking in to macro and micro environments, extensive market research, and efficient competitor analysis, recognising areas of strengths, weaknesses, opportunities and threats. Market research has shown that the luxury market is growing and stays strong in consumer spending habits. With quality and attention to detail being paramount and the most important reason for luxury good purchases, the success of the brand seems promising. Embracing technology is crucial when it comes to sales and brand promotion, and ZEHRA GAZILER will take full advantage of free social media websites to spread awareness. With government funding schemes like NewGen and NESTA, opportunities for funding are possible and will help ensure the growth of the brand to other parts of Europe.

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CONCLUSION AND RECOMMENDATIONS

The brand aims to distribute stock to a variety of stores as well as online, as initially this would be the most cost effective approach as warehouse space will not be required. The importance of a shopping environment however is recognised as being a significant factor during the shopping experience, and the brand aims to have its own store two years after its launch to further enforce its ethos and to create brand equity. Advantages and disadvantages of competitors business models have been recognised to ensure that ZEHRA GAZILER launches successfully. Benefits of having a signature style is crucial for brand identity and has to be embraced, and the design of the logo is one of the first factors that help establish this. The horizontal growth of a business in to accessories is also a great way to expand and seems an instant success if the product is right, and is something ZEHRA GAZILER will consider once expenditure costs are covered and the business becomes profitable. If interpersonal relationships with suppliers develop and careful management of time and production is monitored, the brand will not fail to disappoint wholesale suppliers or customers, giving all the more reason for the brand to flourish. ZEHRA GAZILER understands the importance of good relationships within a business, and if all plans are adhered to, the brand will continue to grow.

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CONCEPT

CONCEPT OVERVIEW ZEHRA GAZILER’S First Autumn Winter Collection is inspired by the Chinese Yin Yang Theory - how polar opposites or seemingly contrary forces are interconnected and interdependent in the natural World, and how they rise to each other in turn to form a complementary balance. These interrelated forces of Earth, Fire, Wind and Water, elements that are seen and unseen, bind together and interact to form a greater hole, part of a dynamic system. The process of change, the points of intersection, the physical reaction, and the altered state are studied to create a beautifully contrasting range full of texture and rich in materials. 56

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COLOUR PALETTE

COLOUR OVERVIEW Rich, dark tones found deep in the Ocean, Light, airy hues to highlight and uplift, Neutral Earth colours to act as a foundation, this colour palette is a reflection of the Earths Geology and Construction.

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PANTONE 11-0701 TPX

SNOW WHITE

PANTONE 14-5402 TPX

FROSTED SILVER

PANTONE 14-4508 TPX

GLASS BLUE

PANTONE 19-2430 TPX

PURPLE POTION

PANTONE 18-1137 TPX

RAW STONE

PANTONE 19-3921 TPX

MIDNIGHT BLUE

PANTONE 19-3921 TPX

TOTAL ECLIPSE

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MATERIALS

MATERIAL OVERVIEW Looking at the fluidity of water, the permanence of earth, the force of air that shifts substance, and the power of fire that manipulates matter, ZEHRA GAZILER’s First Autumn Winter Collection will be a mash up of smooth and rough leathers, transparent and opaque heel units, and embossed/debossed textures. Crushed Metallic Patents contrasted with Velvety Suedes, Weathered Corroded surfaces combined with Rich, Wet-Look Patents, Transparent Highlights with Debossed/Embossed Prints, the collection is aesthetically rich with incongruous materials. These materials will counterbalance each other to form never seen before product that is fresh, edgy, and full of innovation. 60

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WEATHERED, CORRODED SURFACES CLEAR/TINTED PERSPEX AND RESINS

MARBLED LEATHERS EMBOSSED PRINTS

MATT METALLICS WET LOOK PATENTS

VELVET/SUEDE MASH UP

METALLIC FUR TIPS, IRIDESCENT FINISHES

DEBOSSED TREATMENTS RICH CRUSHED METALLICS

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AW 13/14 TRENDS- LEATHERS AND TEXTURE PADDED/QUILTED CHAINMAIL

PETROL PATENTS

MEDIEVAL BROCADE

MATT METALLICS

BRIGHT SEQUINS

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AW 13/14 TRENDS- FURS AND EXOTICS BAMBI FUR

METALLIC TIPPED EDGES

ASTRAKHAN FUR

TIPPED EDGES

ARMOURED EXOTICS

TORTOISE SHELL PATENT

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AW 13/14 TRENDS - KEY DETAILS OVERSIZED HARDWARE

TONAL STUDS PERSPEX HEELS

TORTOISE SHELL

CHAIN DETAIL METAL PLATING

LACING

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APPENDIX

CONTENTS

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TITLE

PAGE

A - Logo Development B - Questionnaire Results C - Further Consumer Research D - Competitor Comparisons E - Supplier Information F - Business Plan After 5 Years G - Web Page Layout H - Store Location

66 67-71 72 73 74 75-76 77 78

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APPENDIX A -LOGO DEVELOPMENT 1 2

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YIN YANG SYMBOL

WATER DROPLETS

CHOSEN LOGO - ‘6’ As the Yin Yang Theory is the driving force of inspiration for the brand, ZEHRA GAZILER is a clever combination of the designers name and the iconic use of dots in the well recognised symbol. Simple, and punchy, these dots also represent the element of water as droplets and the constant flow of liquid is represented through the curved edging of each letter. As ZEHRA GAZILER’s collection will consist of bold, statement shoes, upper case font reflects the brand’s range as it is edgy and fresh. Inspired by opposites, Black and White will be the signature colour for the logo as well as it relating back to the symbol of Yin Yang and remaining as colours that never get old. With branding being so significant, the unusual use of dots also makes the brand recognisable as having a different take on footwear, as it stands out to different typefaces used to recognise brands. Subtle graphics being used this way will hopefully reach the proposed target audience in a more effective way.

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APPENDIX B - QUESTIONNAIRE RESULTS In order to get a deeper insight in to my targeted consumer, a questionnaire was compiled on www.surveymonkey.com where 57 female applicants aged between 18-57 and living in London answered the following questions:

17 or younger 18-20 21-29 30-39 40-49 50-59

Flats Trainers Flat sandals High heel sandals Mid heel courts High heel courts Flat boots High heel boots

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QUESTIONNAIRE RESULTS

Store Department store Online Boutiques Outlet

£200-£400 £600-£800 £800-£1000 £1000+

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QUESTIONNAIRE RESULTS Impulsively Seasonality When there is a need During sales or promotion For secial occasions or events

Weekly Monthly Quarterly Semi-anually Yearly

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QUESTIONNAIRE RESULTS

Style and Aesthetics Quality and Durability Price Country of Origin Brand Reputation Assistance in store

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QUESTIONNAIRE RESULTS

On the catwalk In magazines Out and about Online/Designers Website

QUESTIONNAIRE ANALYSIS This questionnaire was answered by 57 women aged 18-59 in order to gain insight in to what consumers find valuable and invaluable when it comes to purchasing decisions within the footwear market. Results collected were useful, giving insight in to what qualities are most important when purchasing footwear, as well as discovering that a lot of consumers do not necisarrily know what they are looking for until they see it, indicating that impulse buying can be taken great advantage of if an amazing, desirable product is made. Results also conveyed and confirmed that the online shopping sector of the market is growing, highlighting this as an important area to address when web designing. Spending patterns reflected that shoes are purchased every month, and consumers are willing to spend between ÂŁ200-ÂŁ400 on a pair of shoes. This is reflective of the consumers who answered this questionnaire, so the same questionnaire was answered to people on Oxford Street outside Selfridges which showed a larger spending pattern as a different consumer is attracted to this area.

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APPENDIX C - CONSUMER RESEARCH

Todays customers virtually defy classification, although the more complex they become, the more complex are the psychographic segmentation models created to categorise them. For that reason, secondary research has been conducted to gain additional insight in to the influences of purchasing and attitudes of consumers on a larger scale.

“Higher earners are positively thriving. They are far more confident than most, are less likely to be affected by the slowdown, and are more likely to have money left at the end of the month for luxuries or to add to their savings’’ (Clark,Mintel:2012) When asked why people purchase shoes, young people are more fashion-led and have a higher desire to treat themselves. ZEHRA GAZILER therefore has to take trends in to consideration to attract this demographic. Consumer behaviour also reflect that footwear is primarily purchased ‘as a treat’, highlighting how footwear has become a must have fashion accessory. Making the shopping experience as personal as possible will aid customer loyalty, so special consideration has to be taken with customer service, packaging, and how product is delivered to the customer.

“She researches by giving and seeking recommendations and looks for value, style and investment in fashion purchases” (Rumsey,WSGN:2012) A 2012 survey by Glamour found a conscious consumer who thinks before she buys. Product desirability is therefore essential, and mouse-marketing strategies via social networking play a huge role in purchasing choice.

Consumers want to buy unique items that are expressive, personal, and reflect their taste and status” (Hines,2007:206) Fashion is now driven by creativity, desire and aspiration. Focusing on a niche consumer group to fulfil the transformed needs of today’s consumers will create a more successful brand.

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Why women buy shoes, April 2012 1,630 internet users who have bought shoes in the last 12 months


APPENDIX D - COMPETITOR COMPARISON BRAND

RANGE STYLE

PRODUCT

PRICE

CUSTOMER

STORE

E-CCOMMERCE

Fun, flirty, sophisticated, signature island platform, red and leopard print.

£595-£1295 High entry and exit point, includes a couple of flats and mainly courts.

Quirky, glamorous, 24-35. Loves soft humour in wardrobe collection and a lover for originality.

Avant-garde looking, reminiscent of a museum, shoes raised on gold stands.

All collections categorised, with each picture being presented on a Polaroid. Eccentric feel.

Architectural, sculptural, complex uppers, multi- straps, no fastenings used, challenges materials, signature platform.

£460-£1950 A wide price range accommodating to different consumers.

18-50, bold, strong character that is confident and loves statement footwear.

Clean, contemporary and modern. Shoes displayed like works of art on white walls.

Simple, clean, easy to use. Buy Online is not available on his direct site, and lack of designer information.

Bold designs, with girly elements including Swarovksi crystal, glitter, exotic uppers.

£325-£590 Ranging between flats, trainers, loafers, sandals and courts.

16-30, femme fatale styling, super-chic, and a lover of anything pretty.

Print, lots of gold, signature detailing of the brand Miu Miu come through.

Signature style comes through strong, full season range present on one page. Buying online option.

Recognised for creating iconic pieces that are unusual and different to what the market has to offer.

£495 - £1215 Range consists mainly of boots with an equal distribution across other styles.

Non-conformist trendsetter,fearless when it comes to styling. She’s fashion foreword and edgy, and loves to make a statement.

Each boutique is different, and suitable to the values of Balenciaga. Innovative ideas in each store.

Easy to use, full collection on a page, a click navigates you to more information:materials, price, and available sizing.

Slightly androgynous, uses contrasting materials, interesting straps and uppers by manipulating materials.

£85-£470 Low price point as the brand includes wellies, ideal for times around festival seasons.

Androgynous individual who loves to wear iconic footwear. Aged 26-35, has relaxed styling but wears bold shoes.

Sculptural, forward thinking, carpets on ceilings shows a modern twist that’s present in the values of the brand.

Hard to navigate, for more product you have to scroll across the page.

Sculptural, sensual, eccentric, avantgarde, futuristic.

£395-£689 A very small range, mainly consists of open courts.

Loves being the centre of attention, fascinated by mix of materials, and a lover of fine art and art movements.

No individual boutique, however the customer is able to buy directly from the site.

Extremely detailed biography, with press and awards being highlighted - important as she isn’t well established yet. Elements of fantasy.

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APPENDIX E - SUPPLIER INFORMATION

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APPENDIX F - BUSINESS PLAN AFTER 5 YEARS

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BUSINESS PLAN AFTER 5 YEARS

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APPENDIX G - WEB PAGE LAYOUT WWW.ZEHRAGAZILER.COM AS DOMAIN NAME DESIGN •Clear, cohesive layout •Black and white graphic to keep it looking contemporary and fresh •Online shopping available • Campaign to give a feel for the seasons influences and create a mood •Interactive services available for mouse marketing purposes and to gain customer feedback

LAYOUT:

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LOG IN •WISH LIST•

• HOME • COLLECTIONS • EXPERIENCE

DROP DOWN MENUS

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CAMPAIGN IMAGE AS BACKGROUND

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INTERACTIVE SERVICES AND OWN APP

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APPENDIX H - STORE LOCATION ZEHRA GAZILER will have it’s first boutique store located on Mount Street in the heart of Mayfair, one of London’s finest residential areas and exclusive districts. With some of the Capitals best retailers for fashion, art and glass, the brand will instantly gain recognition in this buzzing area.

Mount Street, London

With hotels, lots of places to eat and drink,and well established fashion designers like Marc Jacobs, Christian Louboutin and Balenciaga, Mount Street is already well known for having the world’s best fashion retailers. This will benefit the brand instantly as the area is already visited by consumers who love the high end, luxury market. 78

Marc Jacobs Store, 24-25 Mount Street, London

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Christian Louboutin Store, 11 Mount Street, London


BIBLIOGRAPHY Bessant, J.R(2007) ‘Innovation and Entrepreneurship’ Hoboken, N.J.John Wiley and Sons Frings, G.S. (2005) ‘Fashion:from concept to consumer’ Upper Saddle River, N.J.:Pierson/Prentice Hall Manlow, V (2007) Designing Clothes: culture and organization of the fashion industry. New Brunswick, N.J.:Transaction Publishing Seivewright,S (2007) Research and Design. Lausanne, Switzerland: AVA Publishing Sharp, A., Peters, J and Howard, K. (2002) The Management of a Student Research Project. 3rd ed. Aldershot: Gower Meadows, T. (2009) How to Set Up and Run a Fashion Label. London, UK: Laurence Kind Publishing Ltd. Johnson, E (2002( Product Design Collaboration: Capturing Cost Supply Chain Value in the APperal Industry’ Vol 4, Montgomery Research Inc,. San Francisco, USA Hines, T and Bruce, M(2007) Fashion Marketing: Contemporary Issues. Oxford:Butter-worth-Heinemann Jackson, T and Shaw, D (2009) Mastering Fashion Marketing Basingstoke: Palgrave Macmillan Burke, S (2008) Fashion Entrepeneur: Starting your own Fashion Business Ringwood: Burk Publishing Ltd

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BIBLIOGRAPHY Wilson, E Facts and Figures SS13 (4 Nov 2012) www.britishfashioncouncil.co.uk/news_detail[Accessed 19th Nov 2012] About the British Fashion Council www.britishfashioncouncil.co.uk/content [Accessed 12th Oct 2012] Chaey, E How Networked Insights Makes Sense of Internet Chatter to Help Big Brands Ceate Better Brands www.fasttocreate.com [Accessed 18th Oct 2012] Boyd, E.B (11 Feb 2011)Baked In: Fashion Site Polyvore Taps an Army of Anna Wintours,www.fastcompany.com[Accessed 18th Oct 2012] Ziv, Y (21 Oct 2010)How the Fashion Industry is Using Digital Tools to Increase ROI www.mashable.com [Accessed 17th Oct 2012] Preston,L (6 Nov 2012) The Multichannel Store Experience www.wgsn.com [Accessed 10th Nov 2012] Rumsey, N (6 Nov 2012) A Transformed consumers: UK Women www.wgsn.com [Accessed 10th Nov 2012] Rumsey ,N (30 Oct 2012) A Brand Protection: a Consumer Focused Strategy www.wgsn.com[Accessed 2nd Nov 2012] Bollon, P (Nov 2011) Consumer Behaviour In the Fashion Market 2011 www.worldretailcongress.com[Accessed Oct 30th 2012] Monk, H (Jul 2012) Footwear Retailing: Executive Summary www.mintel.com [Accessed Oct 12th 2012] Clifford, M (Nov 2011) Consumer Attitudes Towards Luxury Brands UK, www.mintel.com [Accessed Oct 15th 2012]

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BIBLIOGRAPHY Clark, T (Feb 2012)Consumers and The Economic Outlook Quarterly Update UK Feb 2012 [Accessed Sep 30th 2012] Women’s Designer Fashion www.farfetch.com[Accessed Oct 7th 2012] Obringer, L (Mar 2011) How Marketing Plans Work www.howstuffworks.com/marketing-plan [Accessed Oct 19th 2012] (17 Oct 2012) UK Unemployment Falls to 2.53 Million www.bbc.co.uk [Accessed 22nd Oct 2012] www.nicholaskirkwood.com [Accessed Oct 4th 2012] www.joannestoker.com[Accessed Oct 5th 2012] www.marni.com [Accessed Oct 15th 2012] www.balenciaga.com[Accessed Oct 10th 2012] www.netaporter.com [Accessed Nov 26th 2012] www. luisaviaroma.com [Accessed Nov 26th 2012] www.doverstreetmarket.com [Accessed Nov 27th 2012]

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IMAGE REFERENCING

Page 7 Adidas:http://the-design-ark.com/category/graphic-design/page/5/?a_aid=3598aabf Society 27:http://www.thedieline.com/blog/2011/4/29/pureproject-shoes.html Pure Project: http://www.beautifullife.info/fashion-design/sneaker-model-no-1-by-society-27/#more-3107 FisherMans: http://behance.vo.llnwd.net/profiles20/719968/projects/3153162/8555ad5436f58320fca6216fe17128f7.JPG Page 8 Protest: McCartney, J http://www.telegraph.co.uk/comment/columnists/jennymccartney/8196320/Tuition-fees-demo-We-protestedthey-ran-riot.html 11 Dec 2010 British Fashion Concil: http://www.britishfashioncouncil.co.uk/gallery_album.aspx?albumid=185 http://the-design-ark.com/category/graphic-design/page/5/?a_aid=3598aabf http://www.thedieline.com/blog/2011/4/29/pureproject-shoes.html wood packaging http://www.beautifullife.info/fashion-design/sneaker-model-no-1-by-society-27/#more-3107 all saints http://behance.vo.llnwd.net/profiles20/719968/projects/3153162/8555ad5436f58320fca6216fe17128f7.JPG Page 9 Woman shopping: shopping http://www.guardian.co.uk/business/2010/dec/27/retailers-jubilant-record-sales 27 Dec 2011 Money stacked: Forouzandeh, H http://www.mideasttime.com/the-real-inflation-rate-in-iran-is-much-more-than-the-reportedrate/503/ 17 Oct 2012 Money chart: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/finance/economics/9632771/Double-dip-left-Britons-1800-a-year-poorer.html 25 oct 2012 Page 10 Celebrity Image: http://shoerazzi.com/see/celebs/ nov 29 2012 Shopping Image: http://recent-ecl.blogspot.co.uk/2011/04/statistics-on-online-shopping-in-uk.html, 25 Apr 2011 Page 11 Mulberry App: http://www.mulberry.com/#/discovermulberry/app WIFI: jENKINS, D http://www.davejenkins.com/2009/11/26/the-case-for-free-wifi-in-retail-stores/ nOV 26 2009 QR Code: Agarwal, S http://technorati.com/business/advertising/article/5-great-qr-code-campaigns/ Dec 3 2011 Social Networking Sites: http://www.socialmediamom.com/2012/09/moms-following-brands-in-social-media.html 7 Sep 2012 Polyvore: http://www.polyvore.com/polyvore_live/set?id=42908645#stream_box FEB 2012 82

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IMAGE REFERENCING Page 12 Defra: http://www.organics-recycling.org.uk/page.php?article=2018&name=Defra+issues+guidance+for+applying+the+waste+hierarc hy+ 2Tth June 2011 Toms: http://www.velocitydigital.co.uk/brands-that-rock-social-media-toms/ Copyright: http://www.copyrightblog.com/copyright-attorney.html Sales Of Goods logo: http://esyagreenymontel.blogspot.co.uk/2011_11_01_archive.html Page 15 Consumer Lifestyle Board: http://www.thesartorialist.com http://www.pinterest.com Banksy: http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=4150082 Cupboard of shoes: http://www.bbc.co.uk/go/redirect.shtml?http://auoff.info/pinterest Girl in Sunglasses:http://musingsinfemininity.tumblr.com/post/5554070809 may 5 2012 Paint marks and Chanel book: http://dashofblonde.blogspot.co.uk/search?updated-max=2011-11-25T12:24:00-08:00&max-results=5 Back of girl, metallic: http://solnaaguafria.blogspot.com.es/2012/04/its-beautiful-day_12.html April 2012 London Bar: http://www.redvisitor.com/City-Guides/London/Night-Life/Claridges-Bar-London.html Page 16 Right Consumer: http://www.thesartorialist.com.post/london.34214 Left Consumer: http://classy-but-sassy.tumblr.com/post/15884224606 Top Right Consumer: http://www.thesartorialist.com

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IMAGE REFERENCING Page 19-22 Range: www.nicholaskirkwood.com Sarah Jessica Parker: http://www.labelleetleblog.com/tag/nicholas-kirkwood/ Page 23 Campaign image:http://themagnetagency.blogspot.co.uk/2010/09/charlotte-olympia-campaign-ss-2011.html 22 Sep 2010 Page 24 Collection: http://www.charlotteolympia.com/fall-2012.html Page 25 Web page: http://www.charlotteolympia.com/index.html Stores: http://www.graziadaily.co.uk/fashion/archive/2010/07/05/charlotte-olympia-and-her-perfect-platforms.htm 5th July 2010 Page 26 Product:www.charlotteolympia.com Page 27 Campaign image: http://www.joannestoker.com/v1/aw-2011-campaign.html Page 28 Product: www.joannestoker.com Page 29 Joanne stoker image: http://ive2tellu.wordpress.com/2012/05/16/the-vogue-talents-corner-3-joanne-stoker/ 16th May 2012 Toms collaboration: http://www.fashionextras-online.co.uk/events-article.php?id=427 Mathew collaboration: https://plus.google.com/+TOMS/posts/4sQhgKYnctq#+TOMS/posts/4sQhgKYnctq 13 Jul 202 Page 30 Marni campaign image: http://www.frock-and-roll.com/category/featured-big/page/22/ 84

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IMAGE REFERENCING Page 31 Product: http://.www.marni.com /fall_2012 Customer:www.pinterest.com Page 32 Marni Stores:http://www.e-architect.co.uk/america/marni_las_vegas_boutique.htm 1Feb 2010 Page 33 Miu Miu campaign:Dana http://heartymagazine.com/news/now-and-then-chloe-sevigny-miu-miu-fall-12-spring-1996, 6 Jul 2012 Page 34 Customer: www.sartorialist.com Product: www.miumiu.com Page 35 Heels: http://indulgy.com/post/JlHXzo1KN1/miu-miu-glitter-heels Heels : http://pinterest.com/pin/250935010457720821/ Miu miu purses: http://fashioncollision.me/category/news/page/7/ Miu Miu Ipad case:http://hsnbette.dev.pixelshelf.com/2012/02/09/miu-miu-valentines-day-capsule-collection-2012/ Packaging; http://www.theblondesalad.com/2011/08/miu-miu-glitter-dream.html 20 AUGUST 2011 VA Stores:APR 30 2010 http://livingforeveriseasy.blogspot.co.uk/2010/04/more-miu-miu.html Page 37 Campaign image:http://piecesnmelodies.com/2012/01/22/balenciaga-ss-2012-ad-campaign/balenciaga-ss-2012-ad-campaign-x/ JAN 22ND 2012 Page 38 Consumer:http://fashionchoice.org/unique-performance-with-balenciaga-shoes/ Range:http://www.balenciaga.co.uk/en_GB/shop-shoe

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Page 39 Boutiques: products/accessories/women/shoeshttp://www.balenciaga.co.uk/en_GB/boutiques Page 40 Beyonce:http://fabulous3.tv/FashionNews/tabid/128/language/en-US/Default.aspx 6 JUL 2010 Block Heel:l http://pinterest.com/pin/237001999110866938/ Balenciaga black and white boots: http://titan-asteria.tumblr.com/post/18985257683mar mar 8 2012 Lego shoe: http://www.shoeblog.com/blog/return-of-the-balenciaga-lego-shoes/ Nov 21st 2007 Page 49 Netaporter:http://www.netaporter.com MyTheresa:http://www.mytheresa.com Page 50 Bergdorf Goodman:http://www.bergdorfgoodman.com LuisaViaRoma:http://www.luisaviaroma.com Page 51 Selfridges:http://fashionbite.co.uk/2011/01/24/selfridges-hands-over-oxford-street-windows-to-young-fashion-designers/ Jan 4th 2011 Kobi Levi shoes: http://style.selfridges.com/self-image/album/kobi-levi-pops-shoe-galleries#2338 22 oct 2012 Chloe Jade Green shoes:http://style.selfridges.com/self-image/album /chloe-jade-green-shoe-galleries 19th nov 2012 Window display:Anya Hindmarsh window display oct 30th 2012 http://misspennydreadful.blogspot.co.uk/2012/10/selfridges-displaytheir-christmas.html Page 52 Harvey Nichols store http://www.harveynichols.com/london Window displays: http://www.smudgetikka.com/2012/11/18/harvey-nichols-plumps-for-an-oriental-christmas-for-this-years-holidaywindows/ NOV 18 2012 Page 53 Matches:http://www.matches.com Dover Street Market:http://www.doverstreetmarket.com

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