ZENZ Organic Products Strategy for choice of certifications, ingredients, and packaging This is a document that is regularly updated. Latest update 2022-04-19
VISION ZENZ Organic Products work for a better world.
MISSION ZENZ Organic Products work for a healthier and more sustainable beauty industry. The philosophy behind ZENZ Organic Products is to create the best and healthiest professional
product line with natural and organic ingredients and maximum respect for the environment. ZENZ support the growing consumer demands for a healthy and sustainable lifestyle. In our strategy, we work to support 12 of the United Nations’ 17 goals for sustainable development.
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To live up to our vision, we work to select the right certifications and packaging that best support our mission. Science and technology are in constant evolution. Every day new knowledge about harmful ingredients and more eco-friendly and sustainable packaging solutions are emerging, which we always try to implement in our products. Certifications are also progressive, which means that new research, innovation, more organic production, and green technology are constantly changing, and the certification criteria update ongoing. This means that ingredients allowed in obsoleted criteria can still figure on labels for several years after. ZENZ always seek to meet the latest science and criteria. Today’s trends show several consumer flows with different focus on, among other things, vegan, organic or natural ingredients which places great demands on the products. In ZENZ Organic Products we try to embrace them all, prioritizing health, including allergy friendly, the highest. Next comes natural and organic ingredients together with sustainability. Below is a brief description of the legislation and certifications that we have today, and a short description of the planned future changes.
Regulations, certifications EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC no. 1223/2009) ZENZ Organic product range is complying to EC Regulation no. 1223/2009 on cosmetic products. This regulation is the main regulatory framework for finished cosmetic products when placed on the EU market. It strengthens the safety of cosmetic products and streamlines the framework for all operators in the sector. It provides a robust, internationally recognised regime, which reinforces product safety while taking into consideration the latest technological developments, including the possible use of nanomaterials. Testing cosmetic products or their ingredients on animals is banned. This means that it is illegal to sell or market a cosmetic product if animal testing has taken place on the finished cosmetic product or its ingredients before being sold in the EU. Regarding ingredients, the EU Cosmetics Regulation also requires that producers must make an inhouse safety assessment of the product before they can sell the products in the EU. This safety assessment includes toxicology values such as LC50 and NOAEL values, which is used to calculate the safe dose of the products under normal use. In addition, SCCS and CIR expert opinions are used to assure the ingredients are safe. This assessment is checked and signed by a medical doctor
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with specialty in dermatology. Therefore, all ingredients in ZENZ Organic products are considered safe. https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/ALL/?uri=CELEX%3A32009R1223
Certified organic ingredients (EC no. 834/2007) Ingredients of organic origin in ZENZ Organic product range are certified organic according to Council Regulation EC no. 834/2007 on organic production and labelling of organic products, etc. https://publications.europa.eu/da/publication-detail/-/publication/04596ed5-455b-4ef2-8c0e- 50f6ebfe3835
AllergyCertified International allergy label that certifies cosmetic products, diapers, detergents, and raw materials all over the world. When you choose products carrying the AllergyCertified label, you can rest assured that their team of toxicologists have gone through every single ingredient and made a risk assessment and concluded that the product lives up to their strict quality requirements. AllergyCertified strives to offer skin friendly products. Perfume or allergenic preservatives are not allowed in AllergyCertified products. ZENZ Organic Pure products are without synthetic perfume or essential oils, and they all carry the AllergyCertified label, which means that there is minimal risk of developing allergy due to usage.
WE HAVE CHOSEN ALLERGYCERTIFIED LABEL BECAUSE: AllergyCertified is your guarantee of minimal risk of developing allergy due to usage. AllergyCertified are members of the European Society of Contact Dermatitis, which gives them access to recent research in skin allergy, perfume, preservatives, and other problematic ingredients. In addition, they have established an advisory board of experts in specific ingredients and allergy. http://allergycertified.com/ http://allergycertified.com/business/how-to-certify/criteria/
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Ecocert COSMOS Organic Ecocert is an inspection and certification body established in France in 1991 and specialised in the certification of organic agricultural products. Ecocert was the very first certification body to develop standards for “natural and organic cosmetics” in 2003. COSMOS-certified products are produced to the highest standards for organic and natural cosmetics, and are safe, effective, and good to use. COSMOS (COSMetic Organic Standard) is a European standard for organic cosmetics launched in 2011 and used in more than 45 countries. Behind COSMOS are five organic labelling schemes that have come together to create one common organic label that will help consumers in their research for organic cosmetics: •
BDIH (Germany)
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ICEA (Italy)
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Cosmebio (France)
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Soil Association (Great Britain)
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Ecocert Greenlife SAS (France)
Ecocert is responsible for managing the labelling scheme, and therefore the label is called Ecocert COSMOS. Ecocert COSMOS certifies both organic cosmetics (COSMOS Organic) and natural cosmetics (COSMOS Natural). To obtain the COSMOS Organic label, 95% of the product's physically processed agro-ingredients must be organic, and at least 20% of the product must be organic, but only 10% in rinse-off products.
WE HAVE CHOSEN ECOCERT COSMOS ORGANIC LABEL BECAUSE: COSMOS-certified products are produced to the highest standards for organic and natural cosmetics, and are safe, effective, and good to use. Widely used organic and natural cosmetics standard recognised globally by the cosmetic industry. A harmonised international standard, which is easy to identify from the label. When specific ingredients have different criteria in the Nordic Swan Ecolabel and COSMOS, we prioritise the Swan label as they focus more on health and are a governmental institution whereas COSMOS is privately held. http://www.ecocert.com/en/cosmos/index.html https://cosmos-standard.org/for-consumers/
Nordic Swan Ecolabel Environmental certification with international recognition and the official ecolabel of the Nordic countries. The aim of The Nordic Swan Ecolabel is to reduce the overall environmental impact from our consumption. The entire life cycle of a product, from raw material to production, use, disposal
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and recycling, is included in the assessment, when drawing up the requirements for an ecolabelled product – for the benefit of people, the environment, and the earth’s resources. Nordic Swan ecolabelled skin and hair care products We are all exposed to chemical substances from the things we surround ourselves with. They affect the environment, and they affect us. The Nordic Swan Ecolabel sets tough requirements for chemicals. This is good for your health and for the people who manufacture the products, and it is important to the environment and our future. The Nordic Swan Ecolabel does not allow manufacturers to add chemicals and substances such as: •
MI or other preservatives classified as sensibilisising.
•
Parabens or other ingredients on EU’s list of potential endocrine disruptors.
•
Microplastic.
The Nordic Swan Ecolabel also ensures that: Products for babies and young children are free from perfume - including so-called natural
•
fragrances. Products for adults are either free from perfume or comply with strict requirements regarding
•
perfume. Products comply with strict requirements regarding the amount and types of packaging used.
•
Sum up - The Nordic Swan Ecolabel: •
Tough environmental requirements - in all relevant phases of the product's life cycle
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Tough requirements for chemicals – benefit the environment and your health
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Tightening of requirements – drives sustainable development
•
… certification and inspections – so you can feel save
WE HAVE CHOSEN NORDIC SWAN ECOLABEL BECAUSE: The Nordic Swan Ecolabel has tough environmental requirements, in all relevant stages of the product’s life cycle. It is the official ecolabel of the Nordic countries based on the latest research and knowledge, a holistic label, that cares about health and environment. https://www.ecolabel.dk/en https://www.ecolabel.dk/en/product-groups/show-productgroup?produktgruppeid=090&projektgruppe=Svanen#,tab:criteria
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PETA Cruelty-Free People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) is the largest animal rights organisation in the world. Companies displaying PETA’s cruelty-free logo have signed PETA’s statement of assurance verifying that they do not conduct or commission any animal tests on ingredients, formulations, or finished products and that they pledge not to do so in the future. Companies on PETA’s cruelty-free list must ensure that tests on animals were not conducted by any party, in any country, under any circumstances for the product that is the subject of the license. Further, the company must not pay for or commission any tests on the ingredients of that product. PETA’s cruelty-free certification does not allow for any tests on animals, under any circumstances, and does not make an exception for testing under REACH, China’s regulations, or any other laws. ZENZ Organic Products is certified as a cruelty-free brand by PETA and included on PETA’s list of companies that do not test on animals. We are also part of PETA’s Beauty Without Bunnies Program.
WE HAVE CHOSEN PETA CRUELTY-FREE LABEL BECAUSE: PETA is an internationally known organisation with a vast list of cruelty-free cosmetic brands. https://www.peta.org/ http://features.peta.org/cruelty-free-company-search/index.aspx
SAFE HAIR SALON An organisation that certifies hair salons worldwide who make a systematic effort to improve the hairdressers’ environment, reduce unnecessary energy consumption and minimize environmental footprint. Safe Hair Salon has also selected several harmful substances that are extremely allergenic, endocrine disrupting or carcinogenic. These substances must never be present in a Safe Hair Salon, neither in products for use or resale nor in make-up. All ZENZ Organic products are listed on the SAFE HAIR SALON Positive List of Recommended Hair Cosmetic Products.
WE HAVE CHOSEN SAFE HAIR SALON LABEL BECAUSE: ZENZ is a pioneer in improving health and environmental impact for hairdressers in Denmark. Back in 2005, ZENZ helped Copenhagen Municipality to establish the Safe Hair Salon certification. https://www.bricksite.com/greensalon
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https://www.bricksite.com/greensalon/products-and-chemicals
Vegan Society The Vegan Trademark is registered in Europe, USA, Canada, Australia, and India and used worldwide on over 30,000 products. It represents the international standard for authentic vegan products. Quite simply, the Vegan Trademark is a beacon for attracting vegan consumers, their families, and friends. The sunflower logo can be found on food and drink, beauty products, toiletries, cleaning products and services. Products that hold the Trademark ensure that the manufacture and/or development of the product, and where applicable its ingredients, must not involve, or have involved, the use of any animal product, by-product, or derivative. And the manufacture and/or development of the product, and where applicable its ingredients, must not involve, or have involved, the use of any animal product, by-product, or derivative. The Vegan Society understands the word ‘animal’ to refer to the entire animal kingdom, that is all vertebrates and all multicellular invertebrates.
WE HAVE CHOSEN VEGAN SUNFLOWER LABEL BECAUSE: The global market is demanding vegan products. A few ZENZ styling products contain animalderived ingredients. These ingredients (see table below) are of natural origin and by-products. For example, beeswax is a by-product of honey production, lanolin is a by-product of wool production. We use a waste product that is derived from a production process. ANIMAL INGREDIENTS IN ZENZ ORGANIC PRODUCTS
Ingredient
Origin
ZENZ product
Cera alba
Natural beeswax. By-product of honey production.
No. 09
Lanolin Silk amino acid
Natural. Derived from sheep’s wool. By-product of wool production. Natural. Derived from the silkworm cocoon. Produced without killing the silkworm. We are working on replacing silk amino acid with the vegan ingredient, wheat protein, in future formulas.
No. 09 No. 12, 91
https://www.vegansociety.com/ https://www.vegansociety.com/your-business/vegan-trademark-standards
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Packaging Nordic Swan Ecolabelled cosmetic products are some of the products that have the lowest impact on their environment in their category and they meet both environmental and health requirements. Requirements are set on the classification and environmental properties of the chemicals used, of the use of fragrances and colourants, on packaging and on the effectiveness of the products. The products go down the drain after use, either directly such as soap, shampoo, and toothpaste, or indirectly by washing bodies, hair or clothes, such as lotions, creams, hairstyling products and make-up. Properties such as biodegradability, bioaccumulability and aquatic toxicity are therefore essential for all ingredients. Cosmetic products come into direct contact with the body. Therefore, the Nordic Swan Ecolabel also sets strict requirements on the substances with potentially effects that are harmful to health. Stricter packaging requirements restrict the use of packaging material and improve resource efficiency. A new requirement on the emptying level limits waste, leading to environmental benefits in all phases of the life cycle of the product. Sustainable extraction of raw materials is a major global issue with a huge environmental impact, and an information requirement as well as a policy requirement bring attention to the issue. Ecolabelled cosmetics means, among other things, •
Strict requirements on chemicals (harmful to health and the environment), including o o o o
•
Strict requirements on degradability and bioaccumulation, including o
•
No MI or other preservatives classified as sensibilisising No fragrances in baby/children's products No ingredients on EU's list of potential endocrine disruptors No parabens
No microplastic
Strict requirements on the amount and type of packaging
The Nordic Ecolabel not only makes demands on the chemicals in personal care products, but also on the packaging, for example the amount and type of packaging. The requirements both help to limit the material consumption and waste of the products. There is a requirement, among other things, that you may only use one layer of packaging - unless several products are sold together, or unless one layer is made of recycled material. There are also requirements for the emptying level, so that as much as possible of the product's content is used. At the same time, you must be able
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to separate the packaging without using tools, so it is easy to sort paper, cardboard, plastic, metal, and glass separately. Technology changes quickly and new technology is emerging all the time. In recent years, there has been a great focus on recycling and marine pollution. Ocean Waste Plastic (OWP) or recycled plastic can reduce the use of new plastic and with ZENZ Version 2.0, we aim to set higher requirements for our packaging than the Nordic Swan Ecolabel.
ZENZ version 2.0 1.
Recycled packaging in collaboration with Ocean Waste Plastic™
ZENZ version 2.0 is made in a new packaging design made mainly from recycled plastic. Most of the products are made from 100% recycled plastic, but the amount varies. ZENZ Organic Products want to help cleaning up the oceans and therefore collaborate with Ocean Waste Plastic™ who remove plastic from ocean/rivers 1:1 by the products packaging weight. The collected plastic from the oceans can be turned into plastic and reused for new packaging. This will avoid the production of virgin plastic as the plastic is recycled. The use of recycled plastic in the packaging and the collaboration with Ocean Waste Plastic are both sustainable solutions with an environmental impact in line with the vision of ZENZ Organic Products working for a better world.
2.
Organic level
We want the maximum level of COSMOS Organic certified ingredients without changing the existing formula, and we aim to increase the current level of organic ingredients, when possible, to be on a higher level than required by the COSMOS Organic certification.
3.
Non-natural ingredients
ZENZ Organic Products attach greatest importance to health and environment. There exist various perceptions about the use of natural and non-natural ingredients. Both natural and non-natural ingredients consist of chemical substances and compounds. Natural ingredients in cosmetics and skin care are most often extracted from plants in form of oils and extracts, where non-natural ingredients are preservatives and created by mixing isolated chemicals in a laboratory.
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With certifications as the Nordic Swan Ecolabel and AllergyCertified, you are guaranteed that the products meet strict requirements within health and environment. Nordic Swan Ecolabel and AllergyCertified both authorize the non-natural preservative phenoxyethanol, while COSMOS do not. COSMOS only authorize a few non-natural preservatives. See table below. Of the non-natural preservatives allowed by COSMOS, AllergyCertified do not allow the two preservatives benzyl alcohol (due to fragrance substance) and salicylic acid (due to endocrine disrupting effects).
Preservatives from non-natural (synthetic) ingredients AllergySwan Ingredient name COSMOS Certified Ecolabel !" !" !" Benzoic acid and its salt Benzyl alcohol ÷ !* !" Salicylic acid and its salt** ÷*** ! /÷*** !" !" !" !" Sorbic acid and its salt !" !" !" Dehydroacetic acid and its salt
SAFE HAIR SALON !" !" ! ###" !" !"
*May be included at a max of 0.001% (10 ppm) in leave-on products and a max of 0.01% (100 ppm) in rinse-off products. **EU’s Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) considers salicylic acid safe when used as preservative at a concentration of 0.5% in cosmetics except for sprayable and oral products other than lipstick. (21/06/2019) . ***AC do not allow salicylic acid due to endocrine disrupting effects. So far, this only applies to salicylic acid and not salts thereof. For discussion at Nordic Ecolabelling as a major Danish study identify salicylic acid as endocrine disrupting chemical (EDC). Is accepted in Safe Hair Salon but they encourage to avoid it due to reports and research suggesting it as endocrine disruptor.
In ZENZ version 2.0, we have replaced as many non-natural ingredients as possible with natural ingredients. This applies, among others, to the preservative phenoxyethanol that we used in many of ZENZ version 1.0 products. Our benchmark is to use ingredients that are allowed by both the Nordic Swan Ecolabel, AllergyCertified and COSMOS as we aim for all three certifications. We always prioritize Nordic Swan Ecolabel, AllergyCertified and COSMOS in the order mentioned. And therefore, it can happen that we cannot use the COSMOS certification in a specific product, as for example our conditioner, because today there is no softening conditioner ingredient that both meets COSMOS requirements and those for the quality and effectiveness that we believe a conditioner should have. Therefore, ZENZ Organic conditioners will not be COSMOS-certified but still carry the Nordic Swan Ecolabel and contain both natural and certified organic ingredients. The majority of ZENZ Organic products have a high proportion of natural ingredients from 95100%. However, some products have a lower proportion as the product's functionality cannot be achieved solely with natural ingredients.
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Our sun oil, for example, contains three effective synthetic sun filters. They are all approved by both the Nordic Swan Ecolabel and AllergyCertified and are the gentlest in terms of health and environment. ZENZ sun oil is a multifunctional product that not only protect the skin but also the hair and scalp, and they do not leave a white cast on the skin or hair. The Nordic Swan Ecolabel and AllergyCertified allow both physical and synthetic sun filters. They also allow certain types of the physical sun filter oxide (nano form) that the EU Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has assessed to be safe for use. The two certifications have strict requirements to ingredients, and filters that figure on EU’s list of substances suspected of being endocrine disrupting or classified as allergens are not allowed in Nordic Swan Ecolabelled or AllergyCertified products. Ecocert COSMOS Natural or Organic do not allow synthetic filters, only the physical sun filters: titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. They do not allow nano.
FACTS ABOUT SUN FILTERS Synthetic / chemical sun filters -
penetrate the upper skin layer and absorb the UV rays so that they do not penetrate the lower skin layers and cause damage. They cannot be seen on the skin and act as an invisible protection.
Physical / mineral sun filters - act like an invisible thin skin on top of the skin and protect by reflecting the UV light. They form a visible white layer on the skin and are typically used only for children. Sunscreen with physical filter on nanoform does not give a visible white cast.
ZENZ Organic Products both use synthetic perfume, natural perfume, and essential oils. We focus on the beneficial effects of aromatherapy in our organic oil range and use natural essential oils as bergamot, ginger, lavender, and peppermint. The Pure oil, however, is without perfume or essential oils. According to EU regulation, the presence of 26 fragrance substances with a well-recognised potential to cause allergy must be indicated in the list of ingredients when its concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products. Such labelling allows people who are allergic to one or more of these 26 fragrance allergens to avoid products containing them. In the table below, you see the fragrance allergens subject to declaration in ZENZ Organic oil range. They are all of natural origin and comes from natural essential oils or extracts, which have aromatherapeutic properties. The table also shows the complexity of the different criteria and certifications regarding authorised ingredients and their restrictions.
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EU’S LIST OF 26 FRAGRANCE ALLERGENS SUBJECT TO DECLARATION
Synthetic (S) or Natural (N) origin
Hexyl Cinnamal
S
Hydroxycitronellal Hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde Isoeugenol
S
AllergyCertified (perfume not allowed) ÷ ÷ ÷ ÷ ÷ ÷ ÷ ÷ ÷ ÷ ÷ ÷ ÷ ÷ ÷ ÷ ÷ ÷ ÷ ÷ ÷
S
÷
!" !" !" !" !" !" !" !" !" !" !" !" !" !" !" !" !" !" !" !" !" !"
S/N
Limonene
S/N
Linalool
S/N
÷ ÷ ÷ ÷
!" !" !" !"
Alpha-isomethyl Ionone
S
Amyl Cinnamal
S
Amylcinnamyl Alcohol
S
Anise Alcohol
S/N
Benzyl Alcohol
S/N
Benzyl Benzoate
S/N
Benzyl Cinnamate
S/N
Benzyl Salicylate
S/N
Butylphenyl Methylpropional
S
Cinnamal
S/N
Cinnamyl Alcohol
S/N
Citral
S/N
Citronellol
S/N
Coumarin
S/N
Eugenol
S/N
Evernia Furfuracea (treemoss extract)
N
Evernia Prunastri (oakmoss extract)
N
Farnesol
S/N
Geraniol
S/N
Methyl 2-Octynoate
S
Swan Ecolabel (*see restrictions)
COSMOS (only if natural origin) ÷ ÷ ÷ ! $%&" ! $%&" ! $%&" ! $%&" ! $%&" ÷ ! $%&" ! $%&" ! $%&" ! $%&" ! $%&" ! $%&" !" !" ! $%&" ! $%&" ÷ ÷ ! $%&" ! $%&" ! $%&" ÷
ZENZ oil no.
98 (N)
96 (N) 99 (N)
98, 99 (N)
÷ 96, 98, 99 (N) 98, 99 (N)
*May be included at a max of 0.001% (10 ppm) in leave-on products and a max of 0.01% (100 ppm) in rinse-off products.
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ZENZ Organic Products aim to meet all customers' needs and to keep up with the latest development and knowledge. ZENZ Version 2.0 replaces certain non-natural ingredients to achieve the healthiest products as possible. These ingredients meet the strict requirements for Nordic Swan Ecolabelled and AllergyCertified products (except the fragrance substances) but are not in compliance with COSMOS. It is an ongoing process to choose between different certifications, and we base our knowledge on the latest proven science and in accordance with the EU Cosmetic Regulation.
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