Métro Line 1 Line 1, the original Métro line, continues to offer service to many of Paris’ most important destinations. Put in service July 19, 1900
Don’t Miss Charles de Gaulle Etoile
Champs Elysée Clemenceau Concorde
Palais Royal Musée du Louvre
Arc de Triomphe, wander down the Champs Elysée
The gorgeous Pont Alexandre, the Grand Palais, the Petit Palais The ancient Egyptian Obelisk, Monet’s Water Lillies in l’Orangerie The world’s most famous museum, The Louvre
The Original Line The Exhbition Universelle or World’s Fair of 1900 was a watershed event for Paris, and for the world. The second modern Olympic Games were held in Paris, with swimming events occurring in the Seine! Talking films were introduced to the world, and now iconic structures like the Grand Palais, Petit Palais, Pont Alexandre and Gare d’Orsay were opened for the exhibition. The Exhibition also marked the opening of the Paris Métro, with Line 1 designed to move visitors on an east-west axis through the city. Today Line 1 serves a similar function, taking visitors and Parisians from the Medieval castle at Vincennes, across the heart of Paris, ending in the ultramodern La Défense business section on the western boundary of Paris. One could conceivably visit most of Paris through this line alone. Today Line 1 is undergoing a change to become an automated, driverless line.
Recommended Day Trip Head out to Chateau de Vincennes at the eastern edge of Paris for a day that few tourists experience. Visit a medieval chateau, a charming village, and wander through the Bois (or forest) de Vincennes.
Metro Stop La Défense
Stars 2
Destinations Grand Arche, Quartre Temps Shopping Mall Agam Fountain View of the two arches Jardin d’Acclimation, Bois de Boulogne Shopping, Beauvais shuttle, Kitty O’Shea’s, street market
Connections RER A
Esplanade de la Défense Pont de Neuilly Les Sablons
1 1 2
Port Maillot
1
Argentine Ch. D. Gaulle-Étoile
1 5
Arc de Triomphe, Champs Élysée Champs Élysée Champs Élysée, Theatre du Rond-Point, street market Pont Alexandre III, Grand Palais, Petit Palais, various statues Obelisk, Place de la Concorde, Musée de l’Orangerie (Monet’s Water Lilies)
2, 6, RER A
Georges V FDR
1 2
Champs-Élysées-Clemenceau
4
Concorde
5
Tuileries
5
Palais Royal-Louvre
5
Louvre-Rivoli
2
Chatelet
3
Hotel de Ville
3
Saint-Paul
5
Les Marais, Place des Vosges, Picasso Museum, Carnavalet Museum (museum of the city of Paris), Congnacq-Jay Museum, Maison Victor Hugo, church of St. Paul-St. Louis
Bastille
2
Juillet Column, Bastille Opera, rue de Lappe, street market
5, 8
Gare de Lyon
2
14, RER A & D
Reuilly-Diderot Nation
1 2
Métro museum, le Train Bleu restaurant, train station Street market Picpus cemetery, Place de la Nation
Porte de Vincennes Saint-Mandé-Tourelle Bérault Chateau de Vincennes
1 1 1 4
Tuileries gardens, Louvre, Galerie du Jeu de Paume Louvre, Museum of Decorative Arts Church of Saint-Germain l’Auxerrois, shopping Huge underground mall, Fountain of the Innocents City Hall, BHV Department store, Tour St. Jacques, church of St. Gervais-St. Protais
Chateau de Vincennes, Bois de Vincennes
RER C
9 13
8, 12
7
4, 7, 11, 14, RER A, B, D 11
8
★★
La Défense/Grande Arche & Esplanade de la Défense ★★ The arch most visitors miss
Things to See
✔ the Grande Arche ✔Quartre Temps shopping mall ✔the Christmas market (in December)
If you go…
• The métro ride is covered by a standard ticket or your Navigo pass • The RER A line is NOT covered by a standard ticket. Tourists often get stuck at the RER exit because they didn’t buy a ticket to travel to this zone • Lovers of baffling modern art should seek out the Agam Fountain in the square outside the Esplanade exit • Try hiking a bit east of the Arche for a view of the two arches aligned
The ride to the top of the Grande Arche is not covered by the museum pass.
Modern Paris When the Eiffel Tower was finished in 1889, much of Paris despised the monument and wanted it to be torn down. It barely survived several such efforts. Today, it’s hard to image Paris without the Eiffel Tower, and one can’t help but wonder if the same fate will befall the Grande Arche de la Défense. Throughout its modern history, Paris has had the unenviable task of protecting its historical architecture and layout, while at the same time continuing to function as one of the business capitals of the world. Rather than mix the old architecture with the new (think of London with its modern buildings like the Gherkin rising above Wren churches), Paris has tried to build around the
peripheral of the city. President François Mitterand was the force behind projects like Défense and the area around the Mitterand library in the 12th. While this movement has effectively created a place for big business in Paris, the area around Défense is currently sneered at by the majority of Parisians. Despite the sneers, the Grande Arche is worth seeing, especially for the repeat visitor to Paris. It’s on an axis with the Arc de Triomphe and is meant to compliment Napoleon’s monument to war, although the architect of the Grande Arche meant his work to be a monument to humanity. The Grande Arche is an imposing monument, and visiting the top via the vertiginous elevator ride will reward you with sweeping vistas of all of Paris. On a warm afternoon, consider climbing the steep steps in front and grabbing a seat. Here you can people watch, with all of Paris serving as the background. Although the skyscrapers and modern buildings offer little to the casual tourist beyond the Arche, if you come out this way, it’s worthwhile visiting the mall in the Métro station, la Quatre Temps, if you enjoy shopping. I often like to stop at the penultimate Métro station, the Esplanade de la Défense, and walk towards the Arche. The views are more expansive, and it’s easier to photograph from this more distant vantage point. In December Paris’ largest Christmas market is located between the stops, and is well worth seeking out. Often visitors complain about the small, expensive and cramped hotel rooms they get in the center of Paris. If you find telephone booth sized elevators (and matching showers) unsuitable, you may want to consider getting a hotel room in this area. You can often find a modern hotel room for much less out in the Défense area, although the tradeoff is that you are a lengthy Métro ride away from most of the sites you’ll want to visit. La Défense went directly from being futuristic to being passé without ever seeming like a normal feature of the present. Edmund White
★★
Pont de Neuilly ★ Small oasis on a busy block
History of the Wallace Fountain
One of the indelible and seemingly ubiquitous signs of Paris is the Wallace Fountain. They are named after Sir Richard Wallace, an English philanthropist who came to Parisian’s aid after much of the potable water infrastructure was destroyed in the Franco-Prussian war. There are several different models of the fountain scattered throughout Paris, but the most famous one features four female figures holding a dolphin-decorated dome aloft. Parisians still use these fountains, particularly during the summer months.
Between the Arches The bridge (or pont) in the name of the stop is several blocks to the west, and walking several blocks on the busy and nondescript Avenue de Madrid isn’t the best use of your Paris time. However, photographers or those who love seemingly incongruous public squares might consider popping up and spending ten minutes in the small park above the Métro stop. The park is located roughly midway between the two arches, so it’s a good place for photographs. There’s a nice Wallace Fountain, a lovely statue of Sisyphus rolling his rock uphill towards Defense, and little else to recommend the neighborhood. You could leave from here and walk downhill towards the Jardin de Acclimation (see les Sablons Métro stop), but there are more pleasant places to stroll throughout the city. However, if you go a few blocks off Madrid you can recapture a bit of the feel of when the area was a small village outside the gates of Paris. There’s a lovely cemetery five minutes away.
★★
Les Sabons/Jardin d’Acclimation ★★ Good stop for children
History Gardens and an Amusement Park Whizzing through stations underground, I used to find myself wondering about the exotic sounding names. Les Sablons may sound exotic, but it actually means a dry, barren, sandy place, like a desert. This sandy spot outside of Paris was the site of France’s first potato farm. While not exactly exotic, try to imagine your moules without frites!
If you have young children who need a break from Mona Lisa and grey gothic churches, the Jardin d’Acclimation is a perfect antidote. This amusement park offers rides, a miniature golf course, a miniature train, puppet shows, and various other amusements. Whereas older children may prefer Villette (See Métro stop Porte de Pantin on Line 5), this is a perfect and affordable half-day excursion for younger kids. Adults, too, may find this much more charming than Disneyland Paris. The other reason to exit here would be to visit the Bois de Boulogne. One of the two large forests bracketing Paris (see Bois Vincennes on line 1 for the other), Boulogne offers a horse racetrack, a botanical garden, picnic grounds, and, at night, Paris’ primary red-light district. Seriously, avoid this area at night. During the day, though, it’s a wonderful escape if you need to get away from the hustle and bustle of the downtown area. There’s a Vélib’ rack as you enter the park, and bicycling through the woods on a nice day makes for an ideal outing (but get there early, as the bikes tend to get used quite a bit). The Vélib’ system allows one to cheaply rent bikes for short periods of time, which is great for seeing the park.
★★
Porte Maillot ★ Paris Convention Center
Things to See
A Pause before Paris ✔ Kitty O’Shea’s ✔Bois de Boulogne
What The Heck Is A Porte? In Parisian place names, the word Porte general refers to a place where the gated city opened to the countryside, and is comparable to the English word “gate,” like Aldgate in London. Porte Maillot was the gated entrance to the king’s forest, the Bois de Boulogne, and was designed to keep poachers from shooting the king’s game.
This low-key area is probably best known to Parisians for being the site of the Palais des Congress, a major convention center in Paris. Many tourists, though, will know the area because it’s where the Ryan Air bus drops you off if you’re coming in on a cheap flight to Beauvais. You can find some good deals on hotels in this rather comfortable neighborhood, but there really isn’t a lot to see. Fans of James Joyce or Irish pubs may want to stop off for a Guinness at Kitty O’Shea’s on 10 rue des Capucines. The pub is decorated with a series of stained glass windows featuring scenes from Joyce’s Ulysses, and the friendly atmosphere provides a good opportunity to revive after the long bus ride in from Beauvais or a final touch of Paris before heading off to the sterile area around Defense. An expensive shopping gallery can be found above the Métro. Just to the west of the Métro stop is the beginning of the Bois de Boulogne. If you are coming in from a Beauvais flight and Métro line 1 doesn’t go near your hotel, you might want to check the map for RER C, which provides a quick link to the area around St. Michel and the D’Orsay. If you’re staying in this area, I recommend the Amiral Bruix street market, located just a few blocks down Boulevard Bruix. The market is open on Wednesday and Saturday.
★★
Argentine ★ A nice neighborhood just above the Champs Élysée and the Arc
Things to See
✔ View of the Arc
Residential Area This is a nice, upscale neighborhood. There’s a nice view here of the nearby Arc de Triomphe, and there are several embassies in the area, but most tourists won’t be stopping here.
History
The original name of this stop was rue Obligado, but after WWII the South American country of Argentina stepped in to help France. Because much of her means of production were decimated in the war, France depended upon meat and grain from Argentina while it rebuilt the countryside.
In a Station of the Metro The apparition of these faces in the crowd; Petals on a wet, black bough. Ezra Pound
★★
Charles de Gaulle/Etoile ★★★★★ MUST SEE !
Things to See
A must see ✔ View from the top of the Arc ✔Champs Élysée History
Not only does the Arc de Triomphe’s axis run through the heart of Paris, but the history of the city runs through the Arc as well. Originally commissioned by Napoleon to celebrate his victory at Austerlitz, the Arc has become the center of French patriotism. Napoleon’s body passed under the Arc, and Victor Hugo’s funeral service took place before throngs of crowds surrounding the monument. In WWII the Nazi army marched triumphantly through the Arc after capturing Paris, as did the Allied Forces when they retook the city. Etoile is French for star, denoting the star pattern of streets surrounding Place Charles de Gaulle.
The visit to the top of the Arc is covered by the museum pass.
This is one of those stops that everyone should make on a first trip to Paris, although returning visitors often choose to skip the area. Along with the Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame and Montmartre, this is the Paris that the world knows.
The Arc de Triomphe stands in the center of the incredibly busy Place Charles de Gaulle. It was designed to sit on an axis that unites Place de la Concorde, La Défense, and the Louvre. A dozen major roads feed into the chaotic circle of traffic that seems to navigate wildly around the Arc. Luckily, there is an underpass that provides pedestrian access to the Arc. Outside the Arc you’ll find a series of sculptures and monuments, including the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier from WWI. Be sure to explore below the Arc before heading to the top.
Continued from page 1
Most visitors climb the winding staircase and 284 stairs to the top of the monument, but if you’re unable to make the climb there is elevator access. From the top of the monument you have an unparalleled view of Paris. I can stand on the roof for hours watching the traffic circle around the monument. There are no visible lanes, and catastrophic accidents always appear imminent, although I’ve never seen so much as a fender bender. Be sure to allow time to visit the museum at the top of the monument either before or after making your way to the roof. If you visit before, it will give you time to catch your breath if you just walked up the stairs.
Don’t Miss: The Arc de Triomphe Shopping on the Champs Élysée Concept cars at Le RendezVous Toyota
After leaving the Arc, most visitors will want to explore the Champs Élysées, Paris’ most famous shopping avenue. The Champs isn’t as glamorous as it once was, as McDonald’s now stands nearby the temples of haute couture, but there’s still enough magic left to make this a unique shopping area. The avenue runs downhill from the Arc, so it’s an easy stroll if you start from here. There are a number of movie theaters if you are looking for something to do on a hot or rainy day, and children (and car lovers) are fascinated by the concept cars on display at Le Rendez-Vous Toyota at number 79. If you wander down the Champs, you can choose to take the long route and exit at the Franklin Roosevelt Métro or you can opt out early by taking the Georges V Métro stop. Either way, odds are that you’ll find yourself on the Champs at some point in your visit.
Metr2
★★
George V There is little reason to get off at this stop, unless you have a specific restaurant or business that you need to visit, or are lucky enough to be staying at the Four Seasons. The area is near the “Golden Triangle” or shopping, Paris’ home of exclusive, upscale shopping centered around Avenue Montaigne, where you’ll find Dior, Chanel and other temples of shopping. Otherwise, most tourists who want to see the Champs should get of at Charles de Gaulle/Etoile, while those who want to visit the Grand Palais and Petit Palais should exit at Clemenceau.
Franklin D. Roosevelt Although this is a beautiful area, there is little to compel stopping here. While many visitors exit here, this really isn’t the best stop if you want to explore either upper Champs Elysée or the museums around Clemenceau. East of the stop is the historical and famous theater district around the Rond Point and Avenue Gabriel, including the famous Theatre du Rond-Point. This area is quite beautiful, if lacking major tourist destinations, and you may want to consider strolling from the exit east to the next stop, Champs Elysée-Clemenceau.
Market Area One of the joys of Paris is discovering the different street markets scattered across the capital. From Thursday through Sunday a stamp, post card, and paper ephemera market takes place at the Marché Rond-Point des Champs Elysé. Continued on page 2
★★
Champs Elysée-Clemenceau ★★★★ MUST SEE !
Things to See
✔ Pont Alexandre III ✔Grand Palais ✔Petit Palais
History
Georges Clemenceau may have studied to become a doctor, but history will remember him as a statesman whose career spanned the chaos of the Third Republic to the horrors of WWI. He started several newspapers, denounced the Dreyfuss Affair, and twice served as Prime Minister of France.
The Most Beautiful Bridge in Paris The Pont Alexandre III, which lies just south of this stop, is a must see. The bridge, the Grand Palais and the Petit Palais were all built for the Universal Exhibition of 1900, giving this area a truly Art Nouveau stamp. Seemingly every inch of the bridge is designed to show off, from the gilt-covered statues to the bronze allegorical and mythological figures, including cherubs and nymphs. Even if you aren’t interested in visiting the museums now housed in the two palaces on the north side of the bridge, it’s still well worth your effort to stop and walk across the bridge. The bridge was named, by the way, for the Tsar of Russia, and was meant to cement the friendship between the two nations.
Of the two “palais,” the Grand Palais tends to get the more arresting art exhibitions. It’s an imposing building, and it carries on its original purpose of housing temporary exhibitions. Both the interior and the exterior are stunning. Even if you’re not interested in whatever temporary exhibition might be showing, it’s worth going into the Grand Palais just to explore features like the grand staircase. The Petit Palais houses a permanent collection of beaux arts, as well as temporary collections. I’m afraid that its wonderful collection of both paintings and other decorative arts is often lost in the city’s riches. Odds are that the first time visitor won’t make it here, but if you’re a repeat visitor, put this one on your list of museums worth spending an hour or two seeing. There are also a number of statues in the area, including ones of Clemenceau (see history above) and Winston Churchill.
Metr2
★★
Tuileries Concorde ★★★★★ MUST SEE !
Things to See
West of the Louvre ✔ Tuileries ✔Place de la Concorde ✔Musée de l’Orangerie ✔Galierie Nationale Jeu de Paume History
Place de la Concorde has (so far) had three name changes. Until the Revolution it was Place Louis XV, but was renamed Place de la Révolution and a guillotine was placed in the square.
The Orangerie & the Jeu de Paume are covered by the museum pass.
If you’ve only seen the Louvre from inside, walking between these two Métro stops will give you a better feel for this essential Paris space. Begin at the Place de la Concorde, a busy square that offers views straight up the Champs Elysee, across the Seine to the Palais Bourbon, north to the Madeleine church, and east towards the Louvre (where you’ll walk). At the center of this square is the oldest monument in Paris, an Egyptian obelisk that’s over 3000 years old. It once stood in front of the Temple of Luxor, but was a gift of the Egyptian government to France. The gilt hieroglyphics and ornate fountain surrounding the monument are impressive, particularly during the winter when a ferris wheel offers beautiful evening views of the obelisk and the surrounding area.
After exploring the area around the square, there are two museums worth visiting before plunging into the Tuileries garden. The most impressive is the l’Orangerie. Recently reopened after a lengthy renovation, the museum displays eight of the largest of Monet’s Water Lillies. The small building itself was the orangery for the royal palace and can be visited rather quickly—if there isn’t a long line to get in. You can also visit the Jeu de Paume museum of contemporary art on the northern end of the entry to the Tuileries. After visiting the museums, take a leisurely stroll through the garden of the Tuileries. There was once a royal palace on these grounds, one that linked up with the Louvre, but it didn’t survive the 1871 Paris Commune. After being burned down, the area was turned into a sculpture garden. On beautiful days it seems like all of Paris finds its way for a stroll through the lovely gardens.
Don’t Miss: The Obelisk
Make sure to stop and watch the children race their boats in the small pond as you work your way towards the Louvre. As you approach I.M. Pei’s famous pyramids, be sure to visit Naploeon’s Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, aligned with the larger Arc de Triomphe via the Axe historique, or historical axis linking the Louvre with the Arc de Triomphe and the Arc de la Defense.
The statues in the Tuileries Monet’s stunning series of water lilies in the l’Orangerie.
Metr2
★★
Palais Royal-Musee du Louvre ★★★★★ MUST SEE !
Things to See
✔ Mona Lisa, Winged Victory, Venus de Milo ✔Museum of Decorative Arts History
Built by the powerful Cardinal Richelieu between 1629 and 1633 (hence the Richelieu Wing in the museum), the “royal” part of its name came about when Louis XIII and then the young Louis XIV lived here—before Louis XIV moved the court to Versailles. A series of Dukes inhabited the palace until the start of the French Revolution.
The Louvre and the Museum of Decorative Arts are covered by the museum pass
Overwhelming Arguably the most famous museum in the world, the Louvre has the ability to overwhelm even the most eager art lover. Children and unwilling travel companions can burn out much more quickly, so any visitor should have a strategy when exploring the vast collections that the Louvre has to offer. Some choose to do the “greatest hits” only, making a bee line to crowd in front of the Mona Lisa. Others feel a cultural obligation to shuffle in front of paintings until they fall into a stupor. How you choose to visit the Louvre should depend upon your own interests and stamina. There’s art here for whatever you happen to enjoy, including ancient Egyptian, Roman, Greek and Etruscan art.
History buffs should visit the basement of the Louvre, where the original walls of the palace have been excavated. The collection of renaissance art is marvelous, and too many great paintings are missed if you focus just on Da Vinci’s Mona Lisa. To make the most out of your visit, you might consider taking a guided tour or following one of the thematic trails that the staff have created to help the bewildered visitor make sense out of the collection. Exploring http://www.louvre.fr/llv/activite/liste_parcours.jsp can help you to plan your trip in advance.
From the moment you get out of the Métro train, you are engulfed in the Louvre experience. The Métro stop has been designed using copies of works found in the museum, and the exit funnels you right into the Louvre shopping area, past the bottom of I.M. Pei’s famous inverted pyramid (usually surrounded by The Da Vinci Code fans getting their pictures taken). However, if you don’t go above ground you’ll miss several key sites. Standing outside in the Louvre courtyard, you get a much better sense of what the Palace was like before it was turned into a museum, and the role that the Tuileries Garden continues to play in Parisian life. There’s another interesting museum, the Musée des Arts Decoratifs, with its collection of furniture, ceramics and tapestries, and which faces the unenviable task of attracting visitors already weary of museums (which is a good reason to visit this overlooked gem of a museum, particularly when the Louvre is packed). Antique lovers will love the shopping available at the Louvre des Antiquaires, located just across from the Louvre, as well as the other stores and arcades in the area. Before leaving the Louvre area, make sure to visit the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel. Napoleon had the monument built to commemorate his military victories, and it stands on the historical axis that connects to the Arc de Triomphe and the Grand Arche in Défense.
Metr2
★★
Louvre-Rivoli ★★ Worth a look
Things to See An historic church ✔ Saint-Germain l’Auxerrois ✔Shopping on Rue de Rivoli
History
The St. Bartholomew’s Day Massacre was probably caused by a wedding. That week Marguerite de Valois, the daughter of Catherine de Medici, was supposed to marry the Protestant Henry of Navarre, and thousands of Protestants were in town to celebrate the nuptials. The ineffective King Charles IX probably had nothing to do with the massacre, but his mother, Catherine de Medici, is thought to have been behind the plot. At least 5000 people were murdered.
Despite the name, most visitors shouldn’t take this stop if they are headed to the Louvre. This stop is well east of the entrance to the museum. However, if one could easily stop here and visit the primary draw of this stop, the church Saint-Germain l’Auxerrois, and then walk up the Rue de Rivoli to the Louvre. The church of Saint-Germain l’Auxerrois (at 2, Place du Louvre), despite its impressive exterior and storied history as the church that served the Louvre when it was a palace, is best known for a dark moment in its past. When the bell tower rang on the night of August 23, 1572, it was a prearranged sign for Catholics to begin killing Protestants by the thousand in what became known as the St. Bartholomew’s Day Massacre. Despite this horrible history, the church itself features some incredible works of art and is worth a visit for anyone who loves French history or church architecture. In recent times, the church hosted the marriage of basketball star Tony Parker and American actress Eva Longoria.
★★
Les Halles-Chatelet ★★★ Unavoidable
Things to See
✔ Fountain of the Innocents ✔Central Paris Shopping Mall
History
For nearly a thousand years, Les Halles has served as the bustling center for Parisian business. From the 12th century until the 1960s, Les Halles was the central food market in Paris. Today, a vast underground shopping complex continues the tradition of commerce in the area. When you leave the underground, you’ll most likely end up in the large square that contains the Fontaine des Innocents. This 16th century fountain by Jean Goujon marks the boundary of the former Cimitiere des Saint-Innocents. Beginning in the 18th century, the cemetery was dug up and the remains moved to the Catacombs (see DenfertRochereau, lines 4 and 6)
The Center of Paris For nearly a thousand years Les Halles (and its connected station, Chatelet) has served as the bustling center of Parisian business. A massive and confusing nexus, too often a visitor’s first contact with these stations comes when she takes the RER into town from the airport and tries to transfer to another Métro line at Les Halles-Chatelet. Five Métro lines and three RER lines converge in these stations, and the tired, bewildered traveler is often left in a state of panic. For this reason, I always suggest making the initial connection elsewhere, even if it means one has to make two connections to get to her apartment or hotel. However, if one returns to this area refreshed and ready to tackle the beast, she’ll find that there is much to do in the area. Beyond the variety of mall shopping underground, there’s also a massive cinema multiplex. If you don’t speak French, look for v.o. on the marquee, indicating that the film is in its original language, and choose an American or British film. If you find your way above ground, there are several interesting sites scattered among the McDonald’s and Nike stores that make up most of the area. Since the middle of the 16th century the Fontaine des Innocents has stood in the center of a bustling square, one that often hosts short but intense protests. Continuing north will lead you to the Pompidou Museum of Modern Art—see suggested walk below.
Beginning just to the east of the entrance to Sainte-Eustache, you can begin a journey up the charming market street of Rue Montorgueil. Look for L’escargot at number 38, with the golden snail atop the marquee. Some of the best patisseries and bakeries in Paris can be found on the street, and there are restaurants for all tastes and budgets. A ten minute walk up Montorgueil leads to the Sentier station on Line 3 if you don’t want to backtrack. Either before or after visiting Rue Montorgueil, be sure to visit SainteEustache. This large, important church was completed in 1624. A monument near the altar marks where the powerful Cardinal Richelieu is buried.
Suggested Activity
Don’t Miss: St. Eustache The statue L’écoute The street market on Rue Montorgueil
If you don’t choose to explore Rue Montorgueil, a good half-day excursion can be planned around first shopping in Les Halles and then walking to the Pompidou Museum. Along with the museum itself, you can also tour Brancusi’s artist studio, visit the Church of Saint-Merri, watch the colorful Stravinsky fountain, and, if you arrive on the hour, watch the l’Horloge with its mechanical show. Right behind the Pompidou you can connect with line 11 and station Rambuteau, or continue your excursion at the Museum of the Art and History of Judaism or the Museum of Dolls (Poupee]. See Line 11/Rambuteau for a more detailed explanation. The area around Pompidou also has many cafes and restaurants.
How can you be expected to govern a nation that has 246 different kinds of cheese? Charles De Gaulle
Metr2
★★
Hotel de Ville ★★★ Worth a quick visit
Things to See
City Hall ✔ Hotel de Ville ✔Winter skating rink ✔BHV department store ✔St. Gervais-St. Protais ✔the Tour St. Jacques History
Long before it was the city hall of Paris, the area around Hotel de Ville was a center of Parisian activity. The place had at one time been known as the Place de Greve. A greve was a sloping riverbank, which is what this area was in the 12th century. The area has been the center of many riots and protests during the ensuing centuries, which led to the terms to grieve and grievance becoming synonymous with labor action. The area was also a popular place for public executions.
The area around Paris’ city hall isn’t necessarily worth seeking out on its own right, but so many visitors find themselves here anyway that it’s worth exploring the sites here. The Hotel de Ville rises up above the large, open square, seemingly encouraging excuses to fill the square. Throughout history these excuses have often included civil protest, but today they’re more likely to include winter time ice skating or temporary gardens in the spring, and shoppers queuing up to enter the BHV department store. On the east side of the building is the entrance to the various exhibits that are put on in the Hotel de Ville, and facing this entrance is the oddly Romanesque front of the church St. Gervais et St. Protais, one of the oldest in Paris. Inside is an impressive gothic church that seems architecturally in contradiction to the façade. In WWI a German bomb hit the church during a Good Friday service, killing over a hundred parishioners. On the east side of the square one can see the Tour St. Jacques rising up over the Chatelet area and Métro stop. The Tour, which has undergone recent renovations, is all that’s left of a massive gothic church that once stood in the area. Continuing on to Chatelet will allow you to return to the Métro. For the many tourists staying within walking distance of this area, the Baudoyer street market, open on Wednesday afternoons and Saturdays, is worth seeking out.
★★
Saint-Paul (Le Marais) ★★★★★ MUST SEE !
Things to See
Quintessential Paris ✔ Place des Vosges ✔A Great Open Air Market ✔Musée Picasso ✔Musée Carnavalet ✔Musée Cognacq-Jay ✔Church St. Paul-St. Louis ✔Rue des Rosiers ✔Maison de Victor Hugo ✔Hotel de Sully The Victor Hugo house and Picasso Museum are both covered by the Paris Museum Pass, while the permanent collections at the Congnacq-Jay and Carnavalet are free.
Although it has everything one pictures as the Paris of our dreams—winding streets, charming bistros, pre-Hausmann architecture—Le Marais has a bit of a advertising problem. So many first time tourists tick off the “must sees,” the Eiffel Tower, Montmartre, Notre Dame, the Louvre, and the Champs Elysée, but they somehow miss this most Parisian of neighborhoods. Perhaps it’s because so many guidebooks begin by announcing that marais means swamp, which is hardly an enticing beginning. Then, too, the neighborhood lacks a singular towering building, like Notre Dame (although the Place des Vosges can easily steal your heart away). There’s also the uncharacteristic scarcity of Métro stations—only one main stop serves an abundance of major sites. Whatever else you do, budget at least one full day to devote to wandering the streets of Le Marais. Much of the architecture of the district reflects the fact that the area was the area for those with money in the 16th century. A series of lucky events saved most of the area from Haussmann in the 19th century, after which the area fell into benign neglect. Its déclassé status meant that it remained largely unblemished until 1969 when it was declared an historical district. Today the area scrupulously works to maintain its cultural uniqueness. Many of the large aristocratic mansions still are standing throughout the district.
These large mansions are knows as “hotels”, which just denotes their size and scope. Famous hotels in les Marais include Hotel de Sully and Hotel de Sens. Several spectacular museums can be found in les Marais. Picasso fans shouldn’t miss the Musée Picasso, which is situated in the Hotel Salé. The museum includes three floors of Picasso’s work, donated by his estate to settle an outstanding tax bill. Even those who are not Picasso fans will enjoy seeing the inside of one of the great 17th century hotels. In the nearby Musée Cognacq-Jay you can explore the Hotel Donon, which houses an amazing collection of 18th century art and decorations, including furniture and china. The aesthetic contradiction between Picasso’s modern art and the baroque ornateness of the Cognacq-Jay may be jarring, but it reflects the richness that the area has to offer. The third major museum here is the Carnavalet, which is the museum of the city of Paris. This museum takes one through the history of the city, from pre-Roman era canoes through to the present. There’s a wealth of items devoted to the French Revolution, as well as to modern France. The museum even includes Marcel Proust’s bedroom. For those on a budget, the permanent collections of both the Cognacq-Jay and the Carnavalet are free. There’s a lot more to the Marais than just museums, though. Wandering through the narrow streets always seems to reveal new finds each time. Shoppers love the varied selection of boutiques and specialty stores, while foodies have a large selection of restaurants from which to choose. The streets of the Marais are so winding and irregular that it’s easy to get lost, which is a blessing in this area. Every time I get lost in the Marais, I end up finding something new. One street of note is the rue des Rosiers in the heart of Jewish Paris, a busy street where restaurants and bakeries call out to compete for your attention.
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Perhaps the “must see” spot in the area, though, is the Place des Vosges. In the 17th century this gorgeous square was the center of aristocratic Paris (indeed, along with Place Dauphine on the ile St. Louis, it’s one of the two earliest public squares in Paris), a place where one could stroll under the cover of arcades amongs the well to do. The history of the site goes back even further, as the area is the site where Henry II died in a jousting accident in 1559. Throughout history many famous people have lived on the square, including Cardinal Richelieu (in No. 21) and Victor Hugo, whose house at No.6 has been turned into a museum (now without admission fee!). Even if you aren’t a fan of the author of The Hunchback of Notre Dame, visiting his former home allows you to see firsthand what life was like living in this lovely little square. If possible, try to either enter or leave Place des Vosges through the southwest corner, where you can walk through the courtyard of the Hotel du Sully.
Other things to see: A synagogue designed by Hector Guimard, the designer of the Paris Métro station, at 10, rue Pavée The National Archives in Hotel du Rohan The church Notre Dame des Blancs Manteaux The church St. Paul-St. Louis
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★★
Bastille ★★ A major square
Things to See Site of a Revolutionary Spark ✔ Colonne de Juillet and the Spirit of Freedom ✔Opera House ✔Rue de Lappe History
The storming of the Bastille is an iconic event, the French equivalent of the Boston Tea Party. The event precipitated the French Revolution. The Bastille itself was a large prison, although at the time of the storming in held only seven prisoners, including the aristocrat, Comte de Solages. In popular lore the Bastille was stormed because rebels were imprisoned there, but in reality the revolutionaries were after the storehouse of weapons held inside.
Visitors who come to the busy Place de la Bastille hoping to find history will be disappointed. The only trace of the original prison is an outline of the building on the pavement where it once stood, and a few stones in the Square Henri Galli near the Sully-Morland stop on line 7. Instead, the modern Bastille Opera house towers over area. In the center of the roundabout is the Colonne de Juillet, which honors both the French Revolution and the rebellion of 1830. The bustling area around the Bastille really comes to life at night, as young people flood the area’s restaurants, cafes and movie theaters. For those in search of an evening drink, just to the west of Bastille in the Rue de Lappe, a narrow alley of bars and restaurants that attracts an evening crowd of (usually) low-key partiers. Make sure to notice the how the Métro stop décor pays homage to the Revolution.
Market Area A bustling street market occurs on Boulevard Richard Lenoir on Thursdays and Sundays.
★★
Gare de Lyon ★★★★★ MUST SEE !
Line 13
Things to See
A better train station ✔ Exterior of station ✔Le Train Bleu ✔Métro Museum and Musée de l’Argenterie History
The Universal Exposition of 1900 Today it’s easy to forget the role that international expositions and world fairs played in showcasing cities and leading to innovation. Paris’ exposition of 1900 led to the development of the Paris Métro system (or at least the first line), as well as the Gare de Lyon, Gare d’Orsay, The Grand and Petit Palais, and the stunning Pont Alexandre. Paris also hosted the 1900 Summer Olympics during the exposition.
In general, train stations (gares in French) are places one tries to go through as quickly as possible, but Gare de Lyon is a rather charming train station that may be worth a visit even if you’re not one of the hoard heading towards the Swiss, French or Italian Alps. To begin with, the station is a gorgeous example of public architecture. It was built for the World Exposition of 1900 (also the impetus for the Métro system). The station houses a truly gourmet restaurant, Le Train Bleu which has been featured in movies like Mr. Bean’s Holiday and La Femme Nikita and is worth visiting for a meal even if you’re not traveling. There’s also a take away version, Le Petite Train Bleu for those who want to pick up something to take on the train. There are also several area attractions worth your visit. If you’re a Métro afficianado, visit the Maison de Métro at 189 Rue de Bercy. It’s a big, confusing building that houses the Métro operations center, but for visitors there is an open exhibition of Métro artifacts. The exhibition varies, but it usually includes antique Métro cars. There is no cost to visit, and you can also pick up detailed Métro maps, but don’t expect to find any signage to help make visiting easier. There’s also a very cheap cafeteria upstairs. I’m not sure if everyone is allowed to eat there, but they didn’t question me when I dined in the cafeteria. Nearby at 109/113 avenue Daumesnil is the Petit Musée de l’Argenterie for those interested in silver tableware.
★★
Nation ★★ HISTORY BUFF SITE !
Things to See
✔ Picpus Cemetery ✔Place de la Nation
History
One of the largest squares in Paris, Place de la Nation has a long and often bloody history. Originally known as Place du Trone because a throne was erected there to welcome Louis XIV into the city, during the Revolution one of the busiest guillotines was set in the center of the square. In 1880 it was renamed to celebrate the Republic.
Directions: At the Nation Métro, find an area map and locate the exit for d’Eglantine. Head down Eglantine for one long block, and then go left to 35 Rue de Picpus. Return to Nation or proceed down Saint-Mande to Picpus Métro on line 6.
Hidden History Paris has a series of “places”, large, circular roundabouts that can be defined, paradoxically, as a square. The most famous of the places is at the Arc de Triomphe, but many others are focal points for traffic and commerce, including Bastille, Clichy, and Nation. Eleven different streets feed into the busy Place de la Nation. Despite the bustle of the square, there are only a few spots that demand a busy tourist’s attention. The statue by Dalou at the center of the square is impressive, and there are some reliable brasseries on the square, but most tourists should head right to Cimetiere Picpus.
Picpus is a melancholy site. Over 1300 of the victims of the guillotine set up in the square were removed at night and buried in two mass graves in Picpus. Before heading out to the cemetery, head into the small chapel where you will find two large signs inscribed with the names and the professions of the men and women who were victims of the Reign of Terror. Reading the list, you’ll find that while some of the victims were journalists or politicians, most had ordinary, everyday jobs. There are more pharmacists, butchers, and teachers listed than politicians or soldiers. Much like the Vietnam Wall in Washington, D.C., these two lists make a human tragedy more tangible. The cemetery itself consists of two parts. The larger part of the cemetery, which you come to first, is still used by relatives of victims of the Revolution. There are a number of interesting WWI memorials. Of most interest, though, is the memorial for General Lafayette of American Revolutionary fame. He escaped beheading (barely), although his wife’s family wasn’t as lucky. Today his grave is always marked by an American flag, as well as several other rememberences of the role he played in the American Revolution.
Don’t Miss: Lafayette’s tomb The two mass burial plots The lists of the victims in the Picpus Chapel
Immediately to the left Lafayette’s grave you’ll come to the site of the mass burial pits, which are gated off from the rest of the cemetery. The austere and somber atmosphere of the site is usually intensified by the loneliness of the site. There are seldom many visitors to Picpus; you may well find yourself alone if you visit. There are no English signs, but the cemetery and chapel are small and easy to navigate.
Vanity made the Revolution; liberty was only a pretext. Napoleon, on the French Revolution
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Reuilly-Diderot The Saint Eloi street market is open on Thursdays and Sundays on Rue de Reuilly.
Porte de Vincennes No compelling reason to stop. The area is surrounded by tall, grey apartments and a number of stores.
Sainte-Mandé Tourelle No compelling reason to stop, although this is an alternative way to go to the Vincennes Zoo, taking bus No. 86 from the Métro stop.
Bérault No compelling reason to stop. Named after an 18th century mayor of Vincennes.
Please Note: The entry for Nation is on the previous page and is out of order.
★★
Chateau de Vincennes ★★★ A Castle by the Woods
Things to See
th
✔ 14 Century castle ✔The town of Vincennes
History
The Chateau stands on the site of an earlier royal hunting ground. The major structures mostly date back to the 14th century. During WWI the chateau was the site where Mati Hari was executed by firing squad. She had been a dancer in Paris, as well as a mistress of Emile Guimet, whose personal collection led to the formation of the Musée Guimet (see line 9, Iena stop). Legend has it that Hari blew a kiss to her firing squad. Whether or not she was actually a spy for Germany is still debated.
The Chateau is covered by the museum pass
Off the Beaten Path A Castle in Paris Many visitors to Paris take a side trip to the countryside just to see chateaux, the French version of the medieval castle. Most tourists don’t know that a day trip to the Loire Valley to visit a medieval castle is unnecessary. A quick ride to the eastern end of Line 1 will deposit you right at the gate of Chateau de Vincennes. The 14th century royal chateau is a piece of Parisian history that seldom makes it into the guidebooks. A lovely chapel, the precursor to Sainte-Chapelle, stands across from the imposing chateau. On the grounds one also can visit the site of the donjon and stroll through a rear courtyard featuring rather incongruous Greek statues.
If you’ve made the trip out to see the chateau, take some time to explore the charming little town of Vincennes. Built on the outskirts of the Bois de Vincennes, one of the two forests bracketing Paris, Vincennes feels more like a separate small village, one apart from Paris proper. A twenty-minute walk through town will take you past antique shops, city hall, the old quarter, a small public park, and a statue of Saint Louis. There are a number of uncrowded restaurants, including Le Petit Bofinger, should you wish to make an afternoon of your visit.
Don’t Miss: Chateau de Vincennes The town of Vincennes The park and main square facing the Hotel de Ville
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Métro Line 2 Line 2, the second Métro line to be built, spans an east/west line across the northern part of Paris. Put in service December 13, 1900
Don’t Miss Charles de Gaulle Etoile
Visit the Arc de Triomphe, then wander down the Champs Elysée.
Monceau
Parc Monceau is one of the loveliest parks in Paris. Visit the Cernuschi.
Blanche
The Moulin Rouge is the iconic building here, but don’t miss the Cemetery.
Anvers
Take the funicular up to Montmartre & explore the area around Sacre Coeur.
The Original Line Line 2 isn’t particularly useful for the Paris tourist, although there are some good sites on the line. Much of the central part of this line bisects Paris’ red light district, as well as the northern working class districts of Barbes Rochechouart and Belleville, which is becoming a trendy destination. If you’re already seeing a site on this line, then there you may want to consider also exploring Sacre Coeur, Pere Lachaise or the Arc de Triomphe.
Recommended Day Trip Save Montmartre for another day, and just focus on the many smaller museums located on this line. From counterfeiting, African art and even erotic art, there are several very good museums to see. Don’t miss the Musée de la Vie Romantique (or museum of romantic life), a hidden gem just off the bustle of the red light district.
Metro Stop Porte Dauphine
Stars 2
Victor Hugo
2
Charles de Gaulle/Etiole Ternes Courcelles Villiers Rome Monceau
1
Plaee de Clichy Blanche
1 4
Pigalle Anvers
1 5
Barbes-Rochechouart
2
La Chapelle Stalingrad
0 1
Jaures
2
Colonel Fabian Belleville Couronnes
1 1 3
Ménilmontant
2
Pere Lachaise
3
Phillippe Auguste Alexandre Dumas Avron Nation
1 1 1 2
2 1 1 1 4
Destinations Museums: Contrefaçon (counterfeiting), d’Ennery; Guimard Métro station Museum Dapper (African Art) Arc de Triomphe, Champs Élysée Nevski Cathedral, ticket booth
Connections RER C
Street Market
3 3
Park Monceau, museum Cernuschi Busy square, restaurants Moulin Rouge, Montmartre Cemetery, museums: Romantic Life, Eroticism Red light district Gateway to Montmartre, via the funiculaire; Place du Tertre, Salvador Dali museum, churches: Sacre Coeur and St. Pierre African Paris, Tati department store Place de Stalingrad, Rontonde de la Villette (interesting building) Northern section of Canal Saint Martin
1, 6, RER A
13
12
4 5, 7 5, 7bis
11 Parc de Belleville, Museum of the Air Notre Dame de la Croix, Place Maurice Chevalier Lachaise cemetery (best exit for lower half). Take Gambetta on line 3 for upper half or full cemetery trip
Picpus cemetery, Place de la Nation
3
★★
Porte Dauphine ★★
Worth a visit
Things to See At the edge of town ✔ Musée Contrefaçon ✔Musée d’Ennery ✔Guimard’s History
Porte is term that generally suggests that at one time a gate to the city stood nearby. In this case, Marie Antoinette had a gate built here between the Bois de Boulogne. In general, the later gates were built less as a means of defense, and more as a way to charge taxes to those who wanted to bring their goods into Paris.
This busy stop at the edge of the 16th takes the visitor to the gateway of the Bois de Boulogne, as well as to two interesting if somewhat obscure museums. While I recommend visiting the Bois using the Les Sablons stop on line 1, if you are in the area you can enter Boulogne here (but avoid at night, as the area is notorious for prostitution and drug use). Most visitors come here for the museums. If you’ve got a teenager you’re trying to keep occupied, or if you’ve always secretly wanted to be a counterfeiter, then the Musée Contrefaçon is for you. Located at 16, rue de la Faisanderie, the museum includes interactive exhibits on all kinds of forgeries, from money to Louis Vuitton purses. The other museum in the area is the Musée d’Ennery, nearby at 59, avenue Foch. The small museum focuses on the mostly Chinese and Far Eastern art collected by the writer Adolphe d’Ennery and his wife. Even those who aren’t enchanted by Asian art may well find the charming 19th century home worth a visit. There is no cost to visit the permanent collection. Before you leave the Métro station, be sure to admire Hector Guimard’s covering over the station exit. There are only two still remaining, this one and the one at Abbesses, on Line 12.
The d’Ennery is free to enter.
★★
Victor Hugo ★★ A must see for lovers of African art
Things to See
African Art ✔ Musée Dapper History
Victor Hugo is an iconic figure in French history. Best know to Americans as the author of such works at Les Misérables and The Hunchback of Notre Dame. His political fortunes rose and fell during his lifetime, and for nearly two decades he lived as an exile from France. At the end of his life he was revered as a tireless fighter for freedom and human rights, and nearly two million people attended his funeral. His body now lies in the Pantheon. Victor Hugo fans should make sure to visit his house at the Place des Vosges (see St. Paul Métro stop on line 1).
The pretty but busy Place Victor Hugo isn’t on most tourists’ agendas, but if you’re in the area it’s a nice place to linger over a café crème. This being the 16th arrondissement, the coffee will cost you a bit more than it would elsewhere, but what are a few Euros when you have such a charming view? Although it’s a busy traffic roundabout, with 10 streets feeding into the place, there’s a relaxed feeling to the area. However, the reason to make a special trip out here is to visit the Musée Dapper. You reach the Dapper by heading down the Rue Léonard de Vinci and then taking a right on Rue Leroux. The museum is hidden at 35 rue Paul Valéry, and it focuses on sub-Saharan art. While the newer Musée du Quai Branly may have a more thorough collection, the Dapper’s exhibitions tend to be more focused (and much less crowded). The museum is named after Olfert Dapper, an early geographer of Africa. If you are in the area, the Saint-Didier Covered Market is open on Tuesday, Saturday, and Sunday. It’s located on Rue Mesnil.
Charles de Gaulle/Etoile See Line 1 for information on this major stop, offering access to the Arc de Triomphe and the Champs Élysées.
★★
Ternes ★★ Worth a visit if you enjoy unique churches or Russian architecture.
Things to See An interesting church ✔ Russian Orthodox church ✔Salle Playel ✔Cheap Ticket booth Visiting Churches in Paris Most churches in Paris welcome visitors, although some close to visitors at various times throughout the day. Active churches don’t charge fees to enter, although they may charge fees during special events, such as concerts. You are generally free to explore the church on your own, but be respectful as there are often worshippers at all times of the day. You shouldn’t open doors or visit places that aren’t readily accessible, such as altars or confessionals. During services many smaller churches restrict entry, although most welcome visitors to their services. That being said, Nevski Cathédrale has often been closed when I’ve stopped by.
The first thing that you may notice upon leaving the Métro stop, depending upon the time of the day, is a queue of people lined up in the center of Place des Ternes. That’s because a cheap ticket booth is located there. If you’re planning to see a show in Paris, it may be worth your while to stop and see if they have tickets to your show. The booth is situated here because of its proximity to Salle Pleyel, a world-class concert hall located on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (itself one of the main shopping and fashion streets in Paris). The main reason for a tourist to exit here is to visit one of the more unique churches in Paris, the Cathédrale SaintAlexandre Nevski. The unique domed church can be found at 12, Rue Daru. Beyond its unique architecture, the church also served as the place for Picasso’s first wedding, to the Russian ballerina Olga Khokhlova.
Market Area The Ternes covered market can be found at 8 bis rue Lebon, from Tuesday through Sunday. The market is open in the morning and from 4-7:30 from Tuesday through Saturday. It’s not an easy market to find, so be sure to check the map before leaving the Métro.
★★
Courcelles No compelling reason to stop. Courcelles is named after a small town that stood in the area. The Swedish church Suedoise Svenska Kyrkan is just north of the stop, and you’re just two blocks from Parc Monceau should you happen to find yourself at Courcelles.
★★
Villiers There is little reason to stop here. Villiers is named after a small town that stood in the area. There is a covered market at 1 rue Corvetto, just south of the Métro stop. It runs daily, except on Mondays. Because the market is within walking distance of the lovely Parc Monceau, this makes a good market to pick up supplies for a leisurely afternoon picnic.
Rome Sloping upwards toward Sacre Coeur, this lovely part of Paris offers little compelling reason to visit, although I have to admit that I’ve always wanted to take a Velib’ and bike downhill from here towards Villiers. Midway between here at the next stop, Place de Clichy, is a street market on Boulevard Batignolles.
When good Americans die they go to Paris. Oscar Wilde
★★
Monceau ★★★★ One of the prettiest parks in Paris
Things to See
Off the Beaten Path ✔ Park Monceau ✔Musée Cernuschi History
Parc Monceau was once twice the size that it is at present. It was created in the middle of the 18th century by the Duc d’Orléans, but after the Revolution the state seized the property, and eventually half the property was used to build private residences. Residents of the private property surrounding the park have 24-hour access.
If you enjoy Asian art, check out the nearby Musée Cernuschi at 7 Avenue Vélasquez. It features an impressive collection of Chinese and Japanese art, including many ancient ceramics and bronze pieces.
Of all the public parks in Paris, Monceau is one of the loveliest and certainly the most unique. It’s much smaller than the other major parks—the Luxembourg Gardens or Buttes Chaumont, for example—and it’s constructed around a series of follies: Greek pillars, Egyptian statuary and a pyramid, and a Dutch windmill. This green spot in the center of Paris offers a quiet refuge from the busy boulevards nearby. There are also surprises to be found in every corner, including a memorial to the first parachutist, Andre-Jacques Garnerin, who parachuted into the park on October 22, 1797, from a hot air balloon.
★★
Place de Clichy ★ A busy meeting place
Things to Do
✔ Have a meal in one of the many restaurants ✔People watch at night History
According to Susan Plotkin in her excellent book The Paris Métro: A Ticket to French History, the name Clichy derives from the French word for a rabbit warren. The area was apparently, at one time, overrun with rabbits. Despite the history, I can never seem to find Lapin on the menus in Clichy restaurants.
A Busy Spot Place de Clichy is a lot like the other busy “places” in Paris, such as Place de la Nation and Place Bastille: lots of good restaurants and brasseries (particularly seafood at Clichy), a large selection of movie theaters, and a variety of places to go for shopping or entertainment. Like Nation and Bastille, Clichy is a place where you’re more likely to find young Parisians out for a night on the town than you are likely to find tourists. In other words, the area doesn’t abound with old churches or museums, but instead offers a certain bustling energy one finds at meeting places in all large cities. As a visitor I wouldn’t go out of my way to come here, but if I were traveling past the area during lunch or dinnertime I might stop. Or, if I found myself fighting jet lag and needing someplace to unwind in the evening, I might come out here to have a drink and do some people watching. Just remember, you’re in an urban environment and should be aware of your surroundings, particularly at night.
★★
Blanche ★★★★ Several interesting sites
Things to See
✔ Musée de la Vie Romantique ✔Moulin Rouge ✔Cimetiere de Montmartre ✔Musée de l’érotisme History Moulin is the French word for the windmills which used to dot the hills of Montmartre. Blanche is a French word denoting white, a rather ironic term given the area’s reputation for lacking purity. The term came from the Plaster of Paris that was once mined in this region.
Entrance to the permanent collections at Musée de la Vie Romantique is free.
Erotic Paris Even before Baz Lurhman’s movie Moulin Rouge came out in 2001, the nightclub was synonymous with Paris and its overt sexuality. There had actually been at least five previous films about the Moulin Rouge, and postcards of Toulouse Latrec’s iconic posters advertising the cabaret can be found at any souvenir shop in town. Today you can still pay to watch dancers perform the can-can, although the dance doesn’t seem quite as risqué. Taking in a show and dinner is expensive, but for some visitors it is de rigueur. The area surrounding the Moulin Rouge constitutes Paris’ most famous red-light district, although it bares little resemblance to similar districts in Amsterdam or Frankfurt. The area can feel a little seedy at night, although during the day you’ll find families and hordes of tourists. If you want to experience a bit of the bawdy without worrying about your safety or forking over the Moulin Rouge’s exorbitant ticket prices, check out the Musée de l’érotisme just one block east of the Métro entrance.
One of Paris’ best little museums is also in the area. The Musée de la Vie Romantique, is a longish three blocks south at 16 Rue Chaptal. This charming little house and painting studio is hidden down a side street, offering a glimpse into the life of the artist in the middle of the 19th century. The house hosted an artistic salon during that time, one which was frequented by such guests as George Sand, Frédéric Chopin, and Eugene Delacroix. The house, which seems more like a cottage, features several floors of letters, paintings, drawings, and other artifacts of the time. Amongst the works you’ll find a couple of original Delacroix paintings. Just a few blocks north of the Moulin Rouge is the sprawling Montmartre Cemetery. Make sure get a map, either at the guardhouse or at one of the local florists in the area. Many artists are buried here, including Edgar Degas, Francois Truffaut, Nijinsky, and Stendahl. There are a number of interesting works of sculpture to be seen, as well. Perhaps the most unique feature to the cemetery is that it has a multitude of living inhabitants—the cats who prowl between the stones. Officials have discouraged the practice of feeding the cats, going so far as to threaten fines, but many of the local residents ignore the law. The feral cats add an unusual atmosphere to the cemetery, and one cannot help but think of the cemetery as theirs. Like Pere Lachaise, this cemetery has some steep hills, so make sure you allot enough time to comfortably explore the area.
Don’t Miss: Cimetiere Montmartre and its cats The blush-inducing shops on the Blvd. de Clichy Getting your picture taken in front of the Moulin Rouge.
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★★
Pigalle ★ Not recommended
Things to See
Paris’ Red-light District ✔ Blush inducing shops of the red light district History
Named for the 18th century French artist and sculptor, Jean-Baptiste Pigalle, who today is rather obscure and less famous than the red-light district of Pigalle. In WWII the area’s reputation for its sex trade earned it the nickname “pig alley”.
The Pigalle district is the center of Paris’ sex industry. While it’s rather tame compared to other European red-light districts, the area still is seedy, particularly at night. During the day, though, the flat, easy walk between Pigalle and Blanche can be an eye opener and is safe. Unless you have an interest in this kind of area, your time would be better spent elsewhere in Paris. For a quick sense of the area, disembarking at Blanche makes more sense. However, if you’re in the area, a glass of wine and a croque monsieur often costs less at a café here than in would closer to the Seine.
I lived in Barbes, in Pigalle, in Clichy, in the chic sections of town, in the theater districts, the streets where whores hung out. Edith Piaf
★★
Anvers ★★★★★ MUST SEE: Gateway to Montmartre !
Things to See
✔ Funicular ✔Montmartre ✔Place du Tertre ✔Sacre Coeur ✔St. Pierre ✔L’Espace Salvador Dali
History
Anvers in the French name for Antwerp, a major city in Belgium and cite of a French military victory.
The museum pass covers the Basilique
Montmartre Montmartre is one of the most iconic places in Paris, but ironically it’s also one of the hardest to get to. There is no Métro stop at the center of the village of Montmartre, so for those who are physically challenged or under time constraints, this is the stop to take. (For a full tour of Montmartre, see the entry for Abbesses on line 12). Although Montmartre towers above the Métro exit, a funicular will speed you to the top. You can also walk up the stairs, but if you do so, be aware of scam artists trying to sell you worthless bracelets or other trinkets. At the top of the hill you will find two of Paris’ most famous churches. The more obvious of the two is Sacre Coeur, a relatively new church built in the latter half of the 19th century to honor those who died in the Franco-Prussian war. Because the white-domed church can be seen from much of Paris, it quickly became associated with the Parisian skyline. The church is made out of a type of travertine that releases calcite whenever it rains, which keeps the Basilica white.
The more historically interesting of the two churches is the much older Saint Pierre de Montmartre. St. Denis established the church in the 3rd century, most likely on the grounds of an older Temple of Mars. Unfortunately, many tourists never visit this more interesting of the two churches. Just west of Saint Pierre is the Place du Tertre. Undeniably geared towards tourists, it still is on of the most beautiful spots in Paris. Artists set up their easels in the center of the square, sketching quick portraits of tourists or selling ready-made canvas paintings (beware: sometimes they are mass produced from China). Around the edge of the square are a number of cafes and bistros. It’s worth paying the overpriced fee for a coffee here, as it becomes your ticket to sit and take in the spectacle. According to lore, the term bistro began here, with Russian troops shouting their word for “quickly”, trying to speed up the delivery of their food. Today, when it’s busy the waiters will serve you more quickly than elsewhere in Paris, as they’re trying to move you through so the next tourist can sit down. Resist the urge to move on—linger over your café. Warning: Place du Tertre can get very crowded. Watch your wallet or purse, and get there early if throngs of people frustrate you. If you’re an art lover, there’s much to recommend this former artist colony. More of the art background will be covered at Abbesses, line 12, entry, but if you’re making a quick stop you may want to visit the L’Espace Salvador Dali at 11, rue Poulbot. . This small museum is dedicated to the works of the surrealist painter. If you find yourself here on a Friday, there is a good afternoon street market at the Place d’Anvers. The market is usually open until 8 p.m., which is unusual in Paris.
Metr2
★★
Barbes-Rochechouart ★★ African Paris
Things to See
A Different Side of Paris ✔ Tati department store ✔Colorful Open Air Market History
Armand Barbes was a radical politician in the 19th century. During the chaotic 1830s and 1840s he went from elected official to a political prisoner sentenced to death. He was spared, largely thanks to Victor Hugo, and later moved to the Netherlands where he lived the remainder of his life in exile.
Note: From BarbesRochechouart to the Jaures station the Métro travels above ground, allowing views of the city.
If you’re tired of the stereotypical Paris—charming patisseries, café’s with busy waiters—here’s a stop that will remind you of the incredible diversity in the city. The area around Barbes is predominantly North African. As soon as you exit the station, you’ll realize that this is indeed a very different Paris. The food smells are different, and the goods at the various street vendors aren’t like those found elsewhere. It’s a loud, energetic part of Paris, one that I often enjoy going to. The shopping store (or rather stores, as they seem to spread down the street) Tati is the focus of much of the energy in the region, and offers a very different experience that you get in, say, Printemps downtown. My favorite excursion in the area is to take the Chateau Rouge stop on line 4, which is 10 minutes uphill from Barbes-Rochechouart, and walk down towards Tati. There are a number of interesting stores to explore, including an inconceivable number of cell phone vendors. If you wander off the main drag a block or two, you’ll first find some often very good and inexpensive falafel and donor kabob restaurants, and then some quieter neighborhoods. Come on a Wednesday or Saturday morning for the colorful market on Boulevard Chapelle. Warning: the guidebooks warn about pickpockets in this area. I’ve never had an issue, but given the often chaotic nature of the quarter, personal awareness is warranted.
★★
La Chapelle This rather sketchy area is just north of Gare du Nord, and it includes some areas best avoided, particularly at night. That’s fine, as there is little to see here anyway.
Stalingrad While less sketchy than La Chapelle, there’s little to demand an unplanned stop here. At Place de Stalingrad you’ll find the interesting building the Rotonde de la Villette. The building traces its history to a late 18th century effort to build a wall around the city so that farmers would be taxed when they entered Paris.
Jaures Jaures and Stalingrad are situated closely together on the Place de la Bataille de Stalingrad, which serves as the border between the Canal Saint Martin and the Bassin de la Villette (which becomes the Canal de la Ourcq. While the area isn’t blessed with museums or must-see monuments, it has a youthful energy. It’s also a perfect place to either begin or end a bicycling excursion. There is a Velib’ stand at Juares, which makes an easy place to start a trip down the Canal Saint Martin, although a walk along the canal is also quite pleasant. If you do take the trip, you’ll travel through an area in Paris that isn’t directly on the Métro, so make sure to take a map and plan your exit. Most of the Métro access is three or four blocks west of the canal. One word of warning: the homeless often set up semi-temporary camps under the bridges, so look before you pedal or stroll through.
History
Jean Jaures was an advocate of socialism who played a key role in the Dreyfus Affair, supporting Alfred Dreyfus. He was assassinated in Paris on the eve of WWI.
x★★
Colonel Fabian Although there is no real reason to stop here, it’s worth knowing that Colonel Fabian was a French resistance fighter in WWII. He shot a German officer at the BarbesRochechouart stop.
Belleville Belleville still feels like a separate place, betraying its history as a working class commune where people spoke and ate differently than in Paris proper. There are interesting pockets throughout Belleville, but I’ll be focusing on those in the next entry. The fortunes of Belleville have waxed and waned over the years, but at present there’s a youthful energy to many pockets of the area. There is a street market on Boulevard de Belleville on Tuesdays and Fridays. The Villette street market is open on Wednesdays and Saturdays.
You can’t escape the past in Paris, and yet what’s so wonderful about it is that the past and present intermingle so intangibly that it doesn’t seem to burden. Allen Ginsberg
Off the Beaten Path
★★
Couronnes/Ménilmontant ★★★ An interesting excursion away from the crowds
Things to See
✔ Parc de Belleville ✔La Maison de l’Air ✔Notre Dame de la Croix History
Every Métro system seems to have a tragedy in its history, Paris’ tragedy occurred at these stops. In 1903, a train caught fire between these two stations, and 84 people lost their lives. The line was just over a year old at the time. The tragedy resulted in several safety changes to prevent a reoccurrence.
A View of all of Paris When you leave the Couronnes Métro, the surrounding area may look a little sketchy. There’s a rather desperate street market that sets up there many mornings, featuring mostly used kitchen goods and clothing. Scurry past the makeshift flea market, catch your breath, and start the three-block long hike up Rue des Couronnes. You’ll pass a number of interesting middle eastern restaurants, many offering water pipes to smoke tobacco and sweet coffee should you want to stop on the way. After three blocks you’ll find yourself at the base of the Parc de Belleville, where your hike gets really steep. Take a second to gather your breath, and push on to the top of Paris. At the top of the Parc you’re rewarded with a view of almost all of Paris. The city has built a number of platforms at the top, as well as an unusual museum: La Maison de l’Air. The museum is devoted to, well, air. Specifically, it provides information on barometrics and the effects of air pollution in a city. It’s a small, thoughtful (and free) museum, and when you leave you’ll no doubt take a deep breath of the clean air as you look down on pollution below.
Spend some time exploring this beautiful park, making sure to explore its many beautiful flowers and the vineyard that still exists at the top of the hill. After the chaos and noise of Belleville at your feet, this peaceful park seems like an urban oasis of calm. When you’re finished, head back downhill to continue the excursion. Off of Rue des Couronnes look for Rue Julien Lacroix. Take this street downhill for about three long blocks until you run into the busy Rue de Ménilmontant. Take a left for one block, until you see Notre Dame de la Croix rising above you on the left. At first the interior of this church will look familiar to you, as it looks an awful lot like most of the Notre Dames in Paris, but as you look closer at the decorations in the church you’ll start seeing the African influence of the parishioners in the carvings, paintings and statuary. As you leave the church, take time to stop at the beautiful little Place Maurice Chevalier. Continuing down Rue E. Dolet will take you to Belleville Boulevard, where the Ménilmontant Métro stop waits on your left.
If you’re in the area on a Tuesday or Friday, the Pere Lachaise street market occurs on the Boulevard de Menilmontant.
Metr2
★★
Pere Lachaise ★★★★★ MUST SEE—BUT STOP AT GAMBETTA ON LINE 3 !
Things to See
Paris’ Best Known Cemetery ✔ Abelard and Heloise’s Memorial ✔Jim Morrison’s Tomb History
If you think you had problems with your father-in law, you need to read the story of Abélard and Heloise. After impregnating Heloise, her father, Fulbert, had Abélard castrated, even though they were married. Abélard retreated into a monastery, but they continued their relationship in a famous series of letters. The lovers’ remains were moved to Pere Lachaise in 1817. Today fans often pay tribute by leaving flower and their own love letters on the memorial.
Most visitors should use the Gambetta stop on line 3, as this will allow them to see the Pere Lachaise Cemetery walking down the steep hill that it’s built upon. The cemetery is huge, though, and if you really just want to see Jim Morrison’s grave, this is the exit to take. Before you enter Pere Lachaise, make sure to buy a map (or “plan”) at one of the florists next to cemetery entry. In this lower half of the cemetery you’ll find several important graves, including those of Chopin, Colette, Haussmann, Heloise and Abélard, and, of course, American rock and roll star Jim Morrison. Morrison, who died in Paris in 1971 at the age of 27, continues to draw a large number of visitors. This often has caused controversy because of the trash they leave behind and the lack of decorum sometimes exhibited.
★★
Philippe Auguste There is little compelling reason to stop at this Métro station, which is named for the 12th and 13th century French king who fought in the Third Crusade.
Alexandre Dumas Named for the novelist who wrote The Three Musketeers, this stop features the Charonne Market on rue de Charonne, on Wednesdays and Saturdays.
Avron There is no compelling reason to stop here at this station in the shadow of Nation.
Nation See entry for Nation on Line 1.
When Paris sneezes, Europe catches cold. Prince Metternich