Clay Pigeon’s chief mixologist is leading one of the most creative cocktail programs in town.
BY ERIC GRIFFEY
Zest: Can you briefly describe your background and what sparked your interest in cocktails?
Tia Downey: My bar experience started when I was at the American Express Centurion Lounge in DFW Airport. I wasn’t even a bartender there. I was the assistant general manager over the bar program. It was there I worked with an array of bartenders who showed me many aspects of cocktail service. One was a flair bartender whose smiles, dad jokes, and bottle tricks kept everyone entertained. Another had worked in every type of bar from dive to casino. She told me she had been bartending longer than I had been alive. I even met, a role model of mine, Jim Meehan, who was our celebrity bartender in charge of the cocktail menu. I learned recipes from everyone, developed my own taste, and decided to pursue bartending as a career.
Clay Pigeon’s housemade limoncello is one of the many touches Tia Downey has brought to that bar’s cocktail program.
Photo by Crystal Wise
How did you land in Fort Worth?
I originally came to Fort Worth on a day trip to visit my twin, Bria, and to check out her new restaurant, Piattello. It was there I met one of the most influential people in my cocktail world, Kellen Hamrah [Clay Pigeon and Piattello general manager]. He inspired and motivated me to make the move from Dallas to help grow the cocktail scene of Fort Worth. He told me he had been looking for someone whose hand was on the pulse of bar culture and that I fit the build. His guidance and support have resulted in one of the best working relationships I have ever had.
What’s it like working so closely with your twin sister?
We worked together at Piattello, often on opposite schedules, so I almost didn’t notice we were a part of the same restaurant. Now at Clay Pigeon, she’s been my executive chef for more than a year, which in my opinion has allowed the overall growth of the restaurant to blossom. We constantly talk about developing new items. It reminds us of school –– just trying to achieve and maintain the high standards we set out for ourselves.
Downey: “Cocktails for me are liquid stories.”
Photo by Crystal Wise
How would you describe your cocktail philosophy? What sets you apart?
Cocktails for me are liquid stories. They should evoke memories and be shared in a way so more memories are made. When I set out to make a cocktail, I imagine what kind of memory I want someone to have. Am I passing down a fond thought of a loved one? Enjoying myself on a patio with friends? Recreating a vacation? I take into account the seasonal offerings and find the specific feeling I want my cocktails to evoke.
What changes have you made to the cocktail program at Clay Pigeon?
I took my time changing the cocktail program at Clay Pigeon. I grew to understand my clientele there, in hopes of bettering their overall dining experience. I keep a creative yet simple classic style to my cocktails on Clay Pigeon’s menu. I do a lot of housemade items that fit within the kitchen’s overall ethos. For example, I have a cocktail on the menu that is a new house favorite, the Western Sour. I use Western Son Gin (made in Pilot Point), ruby red grapefruit juice, lemon juice, egg whites, and a housemade pecan orgeat.
Tia Downey [right] on working with her twin sister Bria Downey [left]: “We constantly talk about developing new items.”
Photo by Crystal Wise
Where do you want to take the cocktail menu?
I eventually want my signature Clay Pigeon cocktails to be their own form of classic cocktails –– Clay Pigeon classics. In the seemingly short amount of time I have been there, I have had guests ask me about past cocktails I’ve designed. It’s extremely flattering to have someone just gush at you over something you made three seasons ago. Just recently, I had a guest ask me for Christmas in July because he loved my Texas egg nog so much.
What’s your process for creating a drink? Who do you test it on?
When I’m creating a drink, I either start with the base spirit or a specific flavor profile and work from there. I do a lot of homework before I even touch a bottle. I’ll read up on that spirit, check seasonality charts, flavor pairing graphs, and even just go to the farmers’ market for inspiration. I will write recipe after recipe and talk it through with other bar nerds and foodies. Sometimes I even dream of cocktail recipes when I’m feeling especially stumped. When I’m eventually sold on an idea, I want to try it in the real world. I will test it out on myself. If I like it, I ask myself the biggest question: Is this something I like that caters to my tastes, or is this something anyone could like? From there, I generally have Bria or Kellen try it and give me their opinions. Luckily, they do not pander to my feelings. They give me honest answers and sometimes follow up with suggestions.
One of Downey’s newer additions to the cocktail menu, the Avoca Coffee Martini, features Grey Goose Le Vanille, Kahlúa, and Cointreau.
Photo by Crystal Wise
What is your opinion on the state of Fort Worth’s cocktail scene?
The best part about Fort Worth is that it’s still growing. We are beginning to see people care more about the quality of a cocktail. Fort Worth is starting to recognize quality, and that is what makes the great places in Fort Worth stand out. It’s only going up from here.
Where do you go for drinks? And what do you normally order?
There are a few places I like to pop in and out of. If I’m just out for drinks, I will head over to The Usual or Proper. If I want the whole drink and dining experience, I’ll go down to the square and sit on Bird Cafe’s patio. My drink of choice is a Negroni with Plymouth Gin or anything that has a surprising combination on a drink menu.
