Kitchen DESI

Recipes from the Indian diaspora in Modern Britain

Words SARAH WOODS

Black Bean

Makhani Dhal

Serves 4-6

Ingredients

• 1 cup brown lentils

• 1 teaspoon whole coriander seeds

• 4 green cardamom pods

• vegetable oil, for cooking

• 2 teaspoons cumin seeds

• 5cm cassia bark

• 4 whole cloves

• 1 dried Kashmiri chilli (optional)

• ½ a star anise

• 1 large brown onion, finely diced

• 20g ginger, grated

• 20g garlic, grated

• 1–2 teaspoons minced green finger chillies, or to taste

• 2 teaspoons sea salt, or to taste

• ½ teaspoon garam masala

• 40g butter

• 1 tablespoon tomato purée

• 375ml water

• 150ml passata

• 3 x 400g tins of black beans, drained

• a pinch of Kasuri methi

• 1 tablespoon Greek yoghurt

• 2 tablespoons double cream

• fresh coriander, to garnish (optional)

Method

1 First cook the brown lentils –you’ll need a large lidded saucepan. Read the packet instructions; don’t overcook them into a mush. You need three to four times the volume of water to lentils, so 3–4 cups of water. Bring to a rapid boil, then reduce to a simmer. Skim o any scum, and don’t allow the pan to go dry. Remove from the heat, and set aside.

2 Toast the coriander seeds in a dry frying pan and transfer to a pestle and mortar. Lightly grind and set aside. Add cardamom seeds to the mortar, with a pinch of salt to act as an abrasive, and grind to a powder.

3 Now make the tarka, the foundation of every curry. In a large sauté pan or similar, activate your whole spices – cumin seeds, cassia bark, cloves, dried chilli and star anise – in 3 or 4 tablespoons of oil on a medium to high heat. When the aromas waft up, tip in the onions, crushed coriander and cardamom, and reduce the heat. Give these at least 10 minutes or so to allow the onions to soften and become translucent.

4 Add the ginger, garlic and chillies, cook for a couple of minutes, then add salt and garam masala. Toast for 30 seconds, then drop in half of the butter. Once melted, add the tomato purée and give everything a good mix. You want a few minutes to cook the purée out. Add some water, about 125ml, to help it on its way.

5 Pour in the passata and bring to the boil, then simmer for a few minutes. When you see the oil separating on the surface, it’s time to taste and make your adjustments.

6 Stir the cooked lentils and beans through the tarka. You’ll need extra water too, about 250ml. Ensure everything is mixed well, then bring to the boil and immediately reduce to a simmer. Taste again – you’ll probably need more salt. Add the methi, the rest of the butter, yoghurt and cream, holiding some cream back for a decorative swirl before serving. Allow to simmer for a little longer – say another 10 minutes or so.

7 Pair with whichever bread takes your fancy, or with rice. I serve it with black cardamom rice, charred aloo gobi, yoghurt and a crunchy slaw.

Baingan Bhurtha –Smoked Aubergine

Serves 4-6 (as a starter)

Ingredients

• 3 large black aubergines

• Vegetable oil, for roasting and cooking

• Sea salt

• 1 teaspoon cumin seeds, plus extra for roasting

• 1 star anise

• 1 large brown onion, finely sliced

• 2 green chillies, split in half

• 7g ginger, grated

• 7g garlic, grated

• 0.5. teaspoon ground turmeric

• 1 teaspoon garam masala

• 1 teaspoon salt, plus extra for roasting

• 150ml passata

• 1 teaspoon tomato puree

Garnish

• Labneh (or thick Greek yoghurt)

• Curry oil

• Finely diced red onion

• Dill fronds

• Pomegranate seeds

• Pomegranate molasses

Method

1 Set your oven to 200°C fan.

2 Start by prepping the aubergines. Use the largest aubergine for presentation – put that to one side. Fire up the two largest rings on your gas hob, on maximum. Place the other 2 aubergines directly on the flames.

3 Back to the presentation aubergine: cut this in half from top to bottom. Dice one half into chunky 2.5cm pieces. Lightly score the other half around the entire perimeter, about 0.5cm from the edge, then score the middle in a criss-cross; don’t pierce the outer skin.

4 Keep an eye on the flaming aubergines. Use tongs to turn them and ensure each side is charred.

5 Place the diced aubergine in a large mixing bowl, toss with a couple of tablespoons of vegetable oil, and season with sea salt and a sprinkle of cumin seeds. Gently massage the scored aubergine half all over with a scant amount of oil. Place it cut side up on a lined baking sheet and season with a little sea salt. Place the diced aubergine alongside it.

6 Your charred aubergines will be ready by now too. Lift these on to a separate lined baking sheet. Roast all the aubergines for 20 minutes, or until they are very soft when squeezed. The aubergine half and dice may need an extra 5 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow to cool.

7 Meanwhile make the masala. Heat 3 or 4 tablespoons of vegetable oil in a medium to large saucepan on a medium to high heat. Add the whole spices– cumin and star anise – and when they start to release their aromas, tip in the onions and chillies and reduce the heat. Cook the onions low and slow for 15–20 minutes, to lightly caramelize them. Add the ginger and garlic and let them cook out for a couple of minutes.

8 The aubergines should be ready to scoop out by now. First the presentation half: using a spoon, gently scoop out the flesh, being careful not to break the skin, and set aside. Next cut the charred aubergines in half from top to bottom, and gently spoon that flesh out too, discarding the charred exterior. Roughly dice the flesh, then place in a bowl and set aside.

9 Once the onions have caramelized, add the ground spices: turmeric and garam masala, and the salt. Toast these for 30 seconds, then add the passata and tomato puree. Increase the heat and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 7–8 minutes.

10 Stir in the aubergine flesh (this is often referred to as caviar) and the diced pieces. Mix thoroughly and simmer for 5–10 minutes or so.

11 Smother your serving plate with a thin layer of labneh or Greek yoghurt. Place the empty presentation aubergine half on top and load it up with the hot bhurtha. Garnish with finely diced red onion, dill fronds and pomegranate seeds. Drizzle with curry oil and pomegranate molasses, and tuck in with toasted charcoal sourdough, naan or crispy seeded lavash flatbread.