ABSOLUTELY eats out… MORTY & BOB’S

Comfort food, cocktails and stylish surroundings in Kensal Rise

By PENDLE HARTE

Morty and Bob’s started life as a purveyor of grilled cheese sandwiches at food markets and festivals.

Founder Charlie Phillips named the business after his grandfathers and when he landed a permanent spot in London Fields he expanded the repertoire from cheese sandwiches to include a seasonally changing series of options for breakfast, brunch and lunch. Now there are three sites: Coal Drop’s Yard, Westfield White City and Kensal Rise. The newest one, Kensal Rise, is more of a neighbourhood eaterie than the others, set in a residential area and this is where we visit for our Sunday brunch. It’s busy – packed, in fact – when we arrive, with families, couples and dogs populating the small and well laid-out space. The vibe is relaxed diner, with a stylish tiled bar, elegant school pendant lights and bare, cream-coloured walls. Sta are young and enthusiastic and the menu is small and simple.

First o is co ee, which is excellent, followed swiftly by my sliced avocado on sourdough toast with spiced yoghurt and poached egg. Good bread and delicious avocado –but a solo egg was not quite enough. Next time I’d order an extra one. The aged HG Walter bavette steak sandwich with chimichurri, pickled shalott, mustard mayo and rocket came in an excellent rosemary-infused focaccia bun with a generous helping of excellent fries, and the signature burger and fries was exactly what you want from a burger and fries: juicy meat, salty cheese, pickles and crispy chips. For pudding, a warm cookie with ice cream was a comforting indulgence, while an impressive half banana with caramelised honeycomb and chocolate mousse was delicious and decadent. Next time we’ll be back for cocktails, or for the newly announced grilled cheese and wine pairing evenings, hosted by sommelier Benedict Butterworth alongside Charlie Phillips.

MORTY & BOB’S

118 College Road, NW10 mortyandbobs.com