Absolutely Eats Out... Pastaio

By PENDLE HARTE

Fresh pasta from Stevie Parle at Westfield

When it opened, Stevie Parle’s Soho pasta outfit sounded a bit pedestrian in comparison with the more cheffy offerings we knew him for. But its instant success proved that what many of us really want is a good plate of pasta for around a tenner – and Pastaio’s winning formula offers affordable, freshly made pasta served with high quality ingredients. It’s accessible, appealing, uncomplicated.

So when another branch opened in Westfield recently, with signs promising free pasta on the opening day, there were queues around the block. And when we visit the following day, the team is still reeling – and the place is still full. It’s a colourful space with a reclaimed industrial feel, long shared tables and pop art walls, plus a busy pasta-making station that invites passers-by to watch. There are more seats set to open upstairs, and no doubt they will be filled immediately too. The atmosphere is buzzy, loud, fun.

Sometimes a plate of delicious pasta and a glass of wine really is all you want from life

We start with creamy burrata, which comes with bitter radicchio leaves and balsamic, and squash fritti, which is moreish, but we’re wary, because we’re expecting huge bowls to come. Happily, Pastaio’s portions do not amount to the vast heaps we are fearing; our main courses turn out to be pleasingly realistic, size-wise. Our daughter snubs the kids’ menu and orders adult-sized rigatoni with tomato sauce (though the adult wording is more elaborate: slow cooked san marzano tomato sauce, Parmesan and marjoram) and she eats it all, quickly. My vongole linguini with garlic, chilli, capers and anchovies is spot on: oily and delicious with juicy clams, not too many capers and a satisfyingly salty kick, perfectly paired with a tasty Riesing by the glass. Slow cooked sausage sauce with conchuglioni is a good meaty option, almost a bolognese but with pork. There’s a separate vegan menu and gluten-free options too; staff are very allergy-aware. Desserts are fine: tiramisu is good if predictable, while mango sorbet is perfectly fresh and zingy. Pastaio hits the spot, because sometimes a delicious plate of pasta and a glass of wine really is all you want from life.

PASTAIO

Westfield, Ariel Way, W12; pastaio.co.uk