Paradise Island

Six months after Hurrican Dorian, Absolutely explores the Bahamas' Paradise Island

By ABBIE SCHOFIELD

Pig Beach is one of the Bahamas' most famous tourist attractions

Don’t turn your back on the pigs or they’ll bite your ass!” warns Diego, our Bahamian guide. We turn fearfully towards the pigs, splaying our hands wide to show we aren't secreting any food. The pigs rush back to Diego and follow him as he walks deeper into the sea, until eventually, their trotters start paddling. Yes, the pigs are swimming, motivated by the carrot Diego is dangling in front of their glistening snouts. We aren't in a petting zoo from hell - in fact, we're in paradise.

Big Major Cay in the Exumas, Bahamas is also known as Pig Beach because of its pot-bellied inhabitants. They were first brought to the idyllic beach as an emergency food supply for the residents of Nassau, the Bahamas' capital and most-inhabited island. The pigs were well-fed and taken care of, and began to associate the boats coming to the island with dinner time. So, keen to get their grub, they learned to swim out to the boats, and now, Pig Beach is one of the Bahamas' most famous tourist attractions.

We are taken to Pig Beach by Pieces of Eight, a family-run tour operator who organises day trips around the Bahamas. As our speedboat charges across the sea, we witness the ocean turn 50 shades of blue, from deep navy to glistening azure. It’s no surprise that astronaut Bill Anders called the Bahamas “a turquoise jewel that you could see all the way to the moon. It was like an illuminated piece of opal.”

PIG BEACH BIG MAJOR CAY

The Cove

ATLANTIS

The Atlantis is the Bahamas' prize resort, boasting five separate hotels from the iconic Royal to the familyfriendly and more affordable Reef. But it’s The Cove that offers the ultimate luxury Caribbean experience.

Like the rest of the Atlantis, the Cove has an underwater theme and its design marries innovative architecture with natural elements. The lobby is openair, and the entire ground floor feels like an outside space; sea views, water features and foliage merge the hotel with the breathtaking nature surrounding it. The suites are full of nautical blues and earthy neutrals, and generous balconies mean the incredible ocean view is the centrepiece of the room, like a work of art.

On the 22nd floor is The Cove Club, reserved for the most exclusive of guests. With floor-to-ceiling windows providing panoramic views of the resort, the club offers a gourmet buffet breakfast in the morning and signature cocktails in the evening, as well as a dedicated concierge service.

The Cove may be luxurious, but the Atlantis is all about a five-star experience alongside Bahamian warmth and hospitality - it isn’t pretentious. Around every corner is a smiling member of staff, genuinely keen to know how you are, and each request is met with enthusiasm and kindness.

FISH BY MICHELIN-STARRED CHEF JOSÉ ANDRÉS

AFTER DORIAN

Despite the sensational hotels on offer, tourism in the Bahamas is far from booming. In August 2019, Hurricane Dorian ravaged the islands of Grand Bahama and Abaco. Homes and businesses were destroyed, and 70 people were found dead, with a further 282 missing. The Bahamas has just 390,000 residents, and the tight-knit community was devastated.

Dorian’s impact on tourism was swift. 50% of the Bahamian economy relies on the holiday industry, and with the rest of the world assuming the Bahamas wasn’t safe, visitor numbers dropped instantly.

“I have an Airbnb and my bookings are the lowest they’ve been in years,” a local woman tells me.

But what people don’t realise is that out of the 16 inhabited islands, 14 were unaffected by Hurricane Dorian. For example, Paradise Island, where the Atlantis is located (just a 30 minute drive from Nassau airport) remains untouched.

Hotels like the Atlantis have been instrumental in the post-hurricane recovery. The resort has 7,500 staff, most of them locals, and is the second largest employer after the government - with that comes social responsibility. The Atlantis has pledged $3 million to help with relief efforts alongside the Bahamas Red Cross and Chef José Andrés’ World Central Kitchen to provide food to those affected.

THE EXCLUSIVE COVE POOL

Of the 16 inhabited islands, 14 were unaffected by Hurricane Dorian

FOOD

Despite the tragedy of the past year, the Bahamians' cheer and warmth remains. One way of showcasing their zest for life is through food, and the Atlantis has plenty of it. My first taste of authentic Bahamian cuisine comes during our day trip with Pieces of Eight. They take us to Lorraine’s Café, a small shack five miles south of Pig Beach, which serves Caribbean soul food, buffet-style. I pile my plate high with fried plantain, peas and rice, spicy chicken, mac and cheese, coleslaw and sticky ribs.

Back at the Atlantis, there are a huge number of restaurants, from casual snack bars to exquisite high-end cuisine. On the ground floor of The Cove is Fish by Michelin-starred chef José Andrés, serving sustainably-sourced local seafood with a Bahamian twist. We also visit Nobu, located right next to the Atlantis’ bustling casino. The chef treats us to a special bespoke tasting menu - highlights are the flambé wagyu beef and a homemade sake infused with Caribbean pineapple. There’s also Café Martinique, a fine dining restaurant that celebrates plant-based food, championing local spices, ingredients and tradesmen. At the Atlantis, every day of the week offers a new phenomenal dining experience.

AZURE SUITE AT THE COVE

THINGS TO DO

When it comes to lounging at the pool, The Cove does it like no other. You can hire your own private cabana, complete with stunning beachfront views and access to the exclusive Cove pool. A VIP butler brings you cocktails and Bahamian dishes from Sip Sip, one of the most talked-about Caribbean restaurants originating from Harbour Island. You can even have a beachside massage from the hotel’s Mandarin Spa, which combines ancient Balinese methods with natural elements indigenous to the Bahamas.

The Atlantis’ family offering is equally impressive. Aquaventure is an 141-acre waterscape with dramatic slides, a two mile-long lazy river, multiple swimming pools and rides (adults love it, too), plus there's a kids' club with fully-trained childcare staff. The hotel is also home to marine life, and guests can swim with dolphins and sea lions, snorkel among tropical fish and visit the resort's large aquariums. The Atlantis invests a lot of resources into protecting the natural habitat - many of the creatures in the resort are rescue animals - and the hotel has its own fish hospital (yes, really).

Despite the sheer vastness of the resort, there is still a distinct island feel to the Atlantis. It has everything you could possibly want, without losing its Bahamian charm. Perhaps this is the reason why guests return year upon year, bringing their children who, years later, bring their own families. The Atlantis is paradise. Just watch out for the pigs.

THE COVE ATLANTIS

From £267 per night for an Ocean Suite One Casino Drive, Paradise Island, Bahamas +1 242 363 3000; atlantisbahamas.com