Eye-conic

Eye-conic

By: Dani Wolfenson Photography by Emporia Meng Makeup By Fjolla Arifi

Move past your standard smokey eye.

Since beginning to experiment with makeup almost a decade ago, I’ve long perfected the art of “no-makeup makeup” and remained in this bubble of natural-looking deception, obsessed with looking like I hadn’t tried too hard, even though I definitely had. I started using makeup to conceal the chronic dark circles surrounding my eyes and I only used neutral-toned eyeshadows that would distract from the purple skin beneath. I was horrified at the thought of hugging a boy wearing a white shirt, as I knew that my face would practically come off on the fabric, revealing that I was, in fact, wearing makeup. Thanks to the recent revival of graphic eye makeup in the mainstream, makeup wearers no longer worry about looking like they’re wearing makeup. Instead, people are encouraged to embrace their love for makeup and experiment with bold looks. Makeup is no longer made just to cover up, but rather to experiment with personal style and expression. The ’80s brought the first wave of graphic eyes -- bright pink and blue shadows filling the lid and lining the waterline was made popular by icons Diana Ross and Madonna. However, minimalist makeup was quickly revived in the ’90s with it-girl Kate Moss. Low-key makeup prevailed both on screen and in everyday life until American counterculture picked up bright shadows and glitter. This was characterized by music lovers and festival-goers who were ready to experiment with bold makeup in public. Festivals like Coachella became safe spaces for people to try new looks, and the rise of social media provided a platform to show off this emerging trend of festival makeup. Since then, social media and the internet have accelerated the graphic makeup trend. YouTube beauty gurus, such as Jackie Aina and Nikita Dragun, make videos guiding viewers through creating these intricate looks. However, graphic eye makeup has remained relatively taboo and unseen in everyday life. This all quickly changed with the release of HBO’s Euphoria, a series starring actress Zendaya as a teenager battling drug addiction. Though the show was made popular for its raw depiction of the struggles that modern teens face, it also made waves on social media for its use of bold eye looks. Fans obsessed over the characters’ vibrant eyeshadow, glitter, rhinestones, and sharp, colored eyeliner. In an interview with Vulture, the show’s makeup artist Doniella Davy said that Generation Z is expanding peoples’ views on makeup. “They’re using it to challenge beauty and makeup norms, to redefine what makeup is,” Davy says, “They’re using it to challenge stereotypical gender identities. It’s definitely not just about like being pretty or using makeup in a corrective manner.” Experimenting with graphic eye looks can seem intimidating. Luckily, we’re here to guide you through it with inspiration from Davy’s article with Elle. ROCK SOME RHINESTONES To nail a rhinestone-filled look, begin with a base eyeshadow color and apply it from your lash line up to your crease. For added drama, extend the base color up towards your eyebrow then apply black winged liner with a slanted flat eyeliner brush. Use

clear-drying eyelash glue to apply the rhinestones, outlining the shadow on the lid and connecting below the lower lash line. Rhinestones can also be placed randomly across the eyelids or even on the eyebrows. Keep the rest of the look simple with a nude lip and fresh brows, and finish with false lashes.

BRIGHTEN UP BASICS

When opting for a monochromatic eye look, begin with a cream shadow base. Use a flat concealer brush to apply the color all over the lid, bringing the color either just above your crease or up to your brow line. Spritz the brush with setting spray before dipping into the shadow to enhance pigmentation. Dust a shimmery, lighter-colored eyeshadow on top to set the base color. Use either the same cream eyeshadow or a slightly darker shade to line the lower lash line. To finish the look, apply a highlighter of your choice to the inner corners of your eyes and black mascara on both the top and bottom lashes.

GET GRAPHIC

For graphic liner looks, apply liner in the color of your choice with either a slanted flat eyeliner brush or a colorful felt tip pen. Next, carefully apply a liquid or cream eyeshadow over the liner. Davy recommends using cultfavorite Stila Shimmer & Glow Liquid Eyeshadow. For added sparkle, use eyelash glue to apply rhinestones on top of the eyeliner. When perfecting bold eyeliner, Davy says to be patient. “Perfect winged liner takes patience and practice to do,” Davy says, “Use small, pointy Q-tips to help make corrections.”