Unit 12: Computers in Art and Design Zoe Walker
Digital Printing and Laser Cutting Research
Digital Printing Digital printing are methods of printing from a digital image directly onto a range of media. Modern printing methods such as laser and ink-jet printing are known as digital printing. During this process, an image is sent directly to the printer using files such as PDFs and those from graphics software such as Illustrator, Photoshop and InDesign. During the printing process, the fabric is fed through the printer using rollers and the ink is applied to the surface in the form of thousands of tiny droplets. The inks used in digital printing are specific for each type of fibre. The fabric is then finished using heat and/or steam to cure the ink. Digital printing has become one of the latest trends. Fashion houses such as; Helmut Lang, Akris, Zac Posen, and Valentino have used this method, probably because of its versatility as it provides the opportunity to incorporate imagery onto garments and accessories. As designers now rely on digital technology from Photoshop and illustrator to aid their design process, digital printing is a tool that works well with this, which explains the reason for its popularity. While screen printing continues to be an effective and common form of textile printing, digital textile printing is becoming more and more popular. An advantage of digital printing is that it is a lot faster and more accurate than the traditional method of screen printing, so may be preferred by some designers. Other benefits include high quality. Digital printing allows for a high resolution image with clean edges, which will help achieve a professional finish. The technique is also a much faster process with fewer steps and can therefore return finished products to customers at a higher rate. As digital printing performs directly onto the garment, it prevents possible screen printing errors, therefore producing less waste making it more sustainable. Digital printing is also more cost effective. Many textile printers require a large batch for screen printing due to the associated cost and effort to create the desired item. Smaller batches are possible by using a method such as digital printing, which offers a less expensive option for many companies and individuals. However, digital printing also has disadvantages, for example, it cannot deliver colour accuracy as it is unable to colour match due to the four colour process that it uses, resulting in the end product appearing different to what was expected. Digital printing also uses more energy to produce compared to the method of screen printing as more electricity and power will be needed. For the future, colour accuracy is being improved upon as well as trying to make the process even faster. Another development being worked on includes trying to get the printers to apply functional finishes, therefore also creating a technical textile.
Valentino A/W 2014
Laser Cutting Laser cutting is a technology that uses a laser to cut materials, and is typically used for industrial manufacturing but is also starting to be used by schools, small businesses, and hobbyists. The Laser cutter works by directing a high powered laser beam very precisely at the chosen material to either etch the material or cut right through. When cutting, the laser beam burns away at the material leaving you with the desired cut out shape. The cutting beam is very thin (around 0.1mm) and precise resulting in incredibly detailed and accurate cuts. By reducing the beam power you can mark the surface of the material, this is known as etching or engraving and can create a variety of effects. Laser cut garments are becoming increasingly popular on the high street, not only as a new trend , but as the adoption of new technology. Consumers are becoming a lot more interested in texture and techniques used within the industry. As laser cutting was more readily available to manufacturers, it is no longer outsourced to bespoke companies. Despite this, it has proven popular at London Fashion Week, creating some unique clothing ranges. Designers that have used Laser Cutting include, Gianfranco FerrÊ (spring 2004), Emma Cook (Fall 2006), Fendi (Spring 2006), Cary Santiago (Spring 2007) and Chanel (Spring 2009 – couture). Laser cutting is a very accurate and successful method of cutting a variety of fabrics to create fine cut detail for intricate designs easily. It is the only technology that can cut or mark drawings with high accuracy. The laser cutter also has an excellent cut quality, this is partly due to the fact that there is no mechanical contact that could ruin the fabric and that the fabric edges are sealed when cut. This occurs because of the heat that is produced, which creates a seal on the fabric edges. This is especially beneficial to fabrics that ravel. This process is also high speed and creates minimal fabric loss so there is less wastage. However, disadvantages of laser cutting include, the possibility of fusing fabric together if multiple layers are cut at the same time due to the heat. Also lots of energy will be needed to power the lasers and set up will be expensive, as well as the cost to train people to use the technology.
CAD Computer-aided design (CAD) doesn’t just refer to drawings of a product on a computer, it refers to any use of computer software that supports the design process. Designers use CAD to make accurate 2D and 3D drawings of designs, patterns or prints to show how finished products will look as well as being able to experiment with design ideas. Different colours and textures can be added to the design and the product can be rotated to show different views. Many designers sketch by hand but large numbers of designers are now utilizing CAD. CAD is typically used in the fashion industry to aid the design process. The software enables the design to be more detailed by showing all the components in every design, which will also help the designer to ensure that a collection is functioning well together. By using CAD a design can be seen in three dimensions. This is useful for a fashion designer as it means that they can see a design, fabric and the colour all before producing the product, giving them more flexibility to experiment and develop their design. This is because CAD software can create a prototype of the design before it is produced. This is so that the designer can make amendments as the designer is able to view other possible designs, colours, fabrics and patterns on different models. Also the designer is able to use the computer to develop and test product ideas, which minimises the chances of human error when designing, therefore speeding up the process. All these tools make the design process easier and quicker for the designer as they are able to make changes to their design idea which saves the designer time and money. In recent years, CAD methods have gained popularity as it is seen as a more sophisticated and creative process in place of just regular designing methods such as drawing. Because of this, being able to use CAD has become a desired skill in the fashion industry as it has impacted the way in which designers conduct business, as today computer aided design is part of the qualifications for a fashion designer. From this it is clear that CAD has been a success within the fashion industry as it is being used more often to assist fashion designers. The software is constantly expanding and becoming more intricate.
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3D Printing 3D Printing is a process of making three dimensional solid objects from a digital file. It starts with the creation of a design made in a CAD 3D modelling program. To prepare the digital design for printing, the software slices the final model into many horizontal layers. When the file is ready, it can be uploaded to the 3D printer, which will then create the object layer by layer, blending each layer together, leaving no sign of layering. This results in the creation of a three dimensional object. This technology has already been revolutionary for a number of industries, and has recently become more popular within fashion, with more designers beginning to experiment. Continuum clothing company which is based in San Francisco is among the first to create wearable, 3D printed garments. Customers are able to design bikinis on Continuum’s website, specifying their body shapes and measurements. The company then uses nylon to print out each unique order. Dita von Teese also made headlines when she wore the world's first fully-articulated 3-D printed gown, designed by designer Michael Schmidt and architect Francis Bitonti,. Designers like Iris Van Herpen and Kimberly Ovitz are also experimenting with the technology. 3-D printing could have tremendous effects on the fashion industry as it allows shorter lead times and smaller quantities for the designers which has previously been prevented due to restrictions imposed by factories. However bigger orders will also benefit as it will allow a design to be duplicated and repeated multiple times. Rapid prototyping is also an advantage of this technology as it makes design development easier and quicker allowing the designer to be more creative. This also links to the idea of personalisation, as designs can be made more unique. This technology is also sustainable because less raw material is wasted due to the accuracy of the printer. 3-D printing could also appeal to environmentalists, not to mention PETA as no animals are being harmed for testing processes. On the other hand, 3D printing is expensive and the initial set up takes time. It could also eliminate many jobs in the manufacturing industry as there will be less need for human input. There are also the potential for tricky legal issues surrounding copyright. For example, brand control and authenticity. Susan Scafidi, Academic Director at Fashion Law Institute, says that she can foresee numerous lawsuits as 3-D printing could also facilitate counterfeiting. She also says, “Imagine five years in the future everyone is just downloading files and printing their own 'Tiffany jewelry'," or "People could also take a page from the Canal Street counterfeit vendors and easily print out, say, a silver Prada triangle and stick it on some cheap generic handbag.“ For the future, we're not close to wearing 3-D printed clothes yet. Time is still needed to figure out how things would work before it becomes a mainstream thing as it is currently not possible to print in comfortable, breathable fabrics.
3D Body Scanning A service called Bodi.me has been launched that uses 3D body scanning to match consumers with the correct clothing size. The service is available to both men and women and uses the individual’s data to find their perfect size in a wide range of leading clothing brands. High-end fashion store Selfridges has been offering a 3D scanning service since 2011, so this technology is not entirely new, but their accuracy has increased significantly in recent years. Getting a 3D body scan is currently free to build initial interest in the product, but will eventually cost £5.
Bodi.me is completely free for consumers to use and will make money by charging fashion companies for the service. At present the company is already provides sizing information for brands such as Topshop, Mango, Tommy Hilfiger, Lacoste and Forever 21. It will also provide an opportunity for traditional tailors to sell online. This could mean that tailored clothing becomes more affordable, as consumers are able to order from traditionally cheaper tailors based in areas such as Southeast Asia. When it comes to online shopping, Bodi.me could help solve the restriction of not being able to try on clothing. However, with that issue gone, it could be the end for fashion on the high street as there would be no need to try on clothing. Bodi.me would also enable friends and family to have access to your measurements, putting an end to ill-fitting presents. But EBay has already invested a lot for a similar service, and more companies are likely to follow soon. In the future, body scanning technology could be applied to 3D printing allowing customers to order 3D printed clothing or jewellery that is designed to fit them perfectly. Also, although Bodi.me is designed for fashion purposes, there are wider plans for the technology. Because Bodi.me allows consumers to regularly update their details, it offers long-term data about their changing size, which could be used for fitness purposes. However this idea is still in the process of development.
Customised Printing Customised Printing allows the customers to have some input into the design of the product, by being able to choose the print design, colours and its positioning on the garment as well as the option of personalisation. Examples of brands that currently offer this include Converse, Adidas, Nike and Constrvct. The option to customise garments has proven to be very popular amongst consumers, especially the options to customise shoes and sports wear. Customise printing can be made personal, the customer becomes the designer. This is the service’s unique selling point. The process also provides dramatic, distinctive and accurate results, so the end product is always desirable. Another benefit, is that there are unlimited design possibilities that can be chosen and created by the consumer. Also, customised printing, will minimise the amount of fabric that is wasted, which is beneficial to the environment. However, the final product can be costly, due to the desirable feature of personalisation and owning a unique garment. Also, not all brands offer this service and those who do, only offer it on a certain range and styles/models within their brand, which creates a limitation for the consumer.
As part of my research into customised printing, I decided to experiment on the Converse website at designing the print/pattern, and colour scheme on one of the styles of shoe available. When on the Converse website, I clicked on the ‘Create’ button on the tab bar, this then directed me to a page where I was able to choose the style of shoe that I wanted to customise. For my experimenting, I chose the ‘Chuck Taylor Double Upper’ so that I would have a range of components to alter.
When I had selected my style choice, I was given a black canvas to enable me to start my own creation. At the top of the page is a bar that will tell you which section you are able to customised so that you don’t miss anywhere out. To the right of the page, the shoe style’s name is displayed, the price and the option to save and share the design, or make a purchase when complete. Then on the left hand side of the page is where you are able to customise your design, with the option to choose a colour or print.
I worked through the process of selecting different colours and prints as can been seen on the top bar where my choices are sampled. The next step I came to on the bar was the option to personalise the shoe with an ID. Here I could type a short ID that would be stitched onto the shoe in a colour of my choice from the list available.
For my personal ID tag , I typed in my name, ‘Zoe’ and chose a grey stitch so that it would match the rest of my design. This is a picture of my design at the final stage. I have circled the Personal ID so that it can be clearly seen. I am also given the option to zoom in on my design, as well as being able to rotate my design so that I can view it from different angles, to make sure I am happy with how the shoe looks.
The final stage of this process is to choose my shoe size. The website also provides hints and tips for choosing the correct size to order. Once that has been done, you are able to order the shoes that you have designed.
The estimated standard delivery time for UK residents is 3 to 4 weeks. With being personalised the shoe will take more time to be produced as the consumer may have chosen a complex design with multiple colours and patterns, which will take longer to make during the production stages.
Summary I believe that digital and laser print technology will grow even more popular within the fashion industry within the following years, as the technology is always being developed and is becoming increasingly popular. This can be seen in fashion shows over recent years where both processes have been used. Digital printing can be used on a range of garments, whether just a print on a t-shirt or a whole dress. It creates a visually effective finish, however can be unreliable or inconsistent when transferring colours depending on compatibility and ink levels. Laser cutting is again aesthetically pleasing, as it adds depth to a garment, making the design more unique and interesting. However, the design can be restricted to its positioning on the garment unless the gaps are covered with a lining and to whether the design will actually work with the laser cutter effectively. I believe that CAD will now always be used with in the fashion industry as it aids the design process by making it considerably faster as well as minimising errors. It allows the designer to see a design or collection before it is produce to ensure they will be happy with final outcome. However, designers have to be reliant that the technology is working and is up to date, otherwise it could hinder the design process rather than aiding it. 3D printing is still being developed as it is still fairly new technology within the industry. However, I believe it will grow in popularity and may be seen on the high street in the near future. Currently though, the technology still needs to be further developed, so a range of materials can be used and so that it is more accessible to the fashion industry. Customised printing can be made very unique and personal to the consumer, therefore explaining its popularity, as many brands now offer this service on certain collections or styles. However, the personalised products are more pricey as a result and take longer to produce and to reach the consumer. To conclude, I think that the new technology within the fashion industry will have both positive and negative impacts. The advantages are that visually effective and textured garments are now being produced at a quicker rate to make fashion more exciting for the consumer, by creating innovative products with the option of combing techniques. Also a lot of these processes help to reduce waste material as the new technology is more accurate and makes fewer errors, therefore creating less wastage. On the other hand, new generations will not learn traditional methods of design as they will become reliant on the machines to do it for them and underprivileged countries may be left behind as they are unable to afford the new technology, therefore damaging their economy as they will be exporting less. Finally, all the new technology needs electricity to be powered, therefore we will be using a lot more energy than previously, which could cause consequences for the environment.
Patterns; To create the following patterns, I have hand drawn single images inspired by a natural form, scanned them in and used Photoshop to create my designs into a pattern. After creating the initial pattern, I have further edited some of the patterns using Photoshop by adding colour or different filters to develop them further. For one pattern, I have merged two patterns together make one new pattern, this involves the spiderweb and shell pattern.
Vegetable Cell
Flower/Leaf
Shell
Spiderweb
Honeycomb
Mushroom
Dandelion
Spiderweb and Shell
Digital Print Sample - Mushroom
Final Pattern Designs; I have selected some of my favourite patterns to create a board using Photoshop.
Digital Pattern Boards I have also created digital patterns by building up a range of digital images and shapes on Photoshop.
Autumn Theme
Water Theme
Peacock/Butterfly Theme
Evaluation – Digital Print
After completing my digital print designs, I have learnt that the process has both strengths and weaknesses. I have also thought about opportunities to overcome these weaknesses, as well as possible threats to the strengths of the process. To start, digital print is both visually and technically effective. A pattern can be created by hand and can be repeated to create a seamless pattern using design software such as Photoshop. Using the repeat pattern that has been created, the designer can then decide on the size of the pattern as you can alter the dimension of the pattern swatch, giving the designer more control of the final outcome. As designs can be created by hand as well as digitally, the pattern will originally be unique unless it is re-used. To avoid this, exclusivity could be guaranteed to ensure it remains unique to the designer. Also, with this technique, you are able combine it with other techniques, for example, laser cutting. This allows the designer to make a more intricate and interesting design. A variety of fabrics can also be used to create different effects using the same pattern, as different fabrics will hold the ink of the print differently. Some designs will be bolder and have stronger colour, whereas other fabrics won’t hold the ink as well as others. Finally, the design process will be quicker in comparison to more traditional printing techniques such as batik and silk screen. Digital printing also helps to minimise textile waste as the printing is more accurate than when done my hand using the other techniques. A weakness of the process is that it is quite expensive to maintain. Especially using the heat transfer method, as the ink and transfer paper will constantly need to be replaced as they don’t have unlimited use. Also the non-digital pattern designs are reliant on basic drawing skills which could be difficult as it isn’t every designers strong point. On the other hand, it creates employment for illustrators to draw the patterns for the designer. Another weakness is the quality of the colour. If the ink is running low, or the chosen colours are not compatible for printing, the colours may appear faded and dull. If this was used in industry, the garment wouldn’t be aesthetically pleasing to the consumer, so therefore may not sell very well. This could possibly be prevented by checking ink levels before beginning the process or by sampling the colours. However, ultimately the designer will have no control over this, as it is a part of the process.
Laser Cut Designs; I have also created laser cut designs using Illustrator. I have had to use Illustrator rather than Photoshop as Illustrator creates paths for the laser to follow. I used photo templates to help create my designs.
Flower
Curly Leaf
Although this design would work on the laser cutter, it will need amending so that the paths created are neater and don’t touch each other as that will ruin the effect of the laser design. However, I will find another image to use for my laser design as I feel I could find a more effective design and I don’t really like this one.
Spiderweb
Laser Cut Sample - Spiderweb
Evaluation – Laser Cutting
After completing my laser cut design, I have learnt that the process has both strengths and weaknesses. I have also thought about opportunities to overcome these weaknesses, as well as possible threats to the strengths of the process. To start, the laser cut is both visually and technically effective. The detail of the design has been cut out accurately and no quality has been lost or would be lost if I was to repeat this design. However. The materials that can be used for my design is limited. Some materials will set on fire or melt due to the intensity of the laser. Also as a result of this, I believe it would be best to avoid lighter colour materials, especially fabrics, as the laser leaves a singe mark where it has cut. This is not suitable for garments or any designs that require a good quality finish. Another strength is that the process is fairly quick. Laser cutting could save time in the production process as the other option would be for it to be done by hand. This would take considerably longer and would not be repeated accurately. Although the process is quick, larger more intricate designs will take longer to produce, which could potentially cause a back log. Additionally, the design created could be unique and individual, as the design, like mine, could be created as a CAD on the computer software Illustrator. This allows the designer control over the laser cut design. However this point highlights some weaknesses in the process. One weakness of the process is that the design will not be bespoke, as it is likely that the design will be mass produced, resulting in a value deterioration . This could be overcome however by guaranteeing exclusivity which will then re-increase its value. Another weakness is that the laser cutter is only compatible with the software Illustrator, which is a complex programme with many features, which people may find confusing to use. To resolve this issue, training will need to be given to those who need to produce laser cut designs. This links to another weakness, the process is expensive to set and start up. The laser cutter will be expensive to buy and it will cost to train people how to use it, however, the process will quickly pay for itself as the use of laser cut design is a popular method for design. However, for this process, we are reliant on the machine working or trained staff being available. If the machine breaks or trained staff aren’t available, the process may be delayed.
Collection Boards; Using my three favourite patterns, I have created a collection, presented as a range plan that incorporate these prints. After each Board I have shown the pattern on models as well as an inspiration board. Both of which were created on Photoshop.
For this board, I have combined both digital print and laser cutting techniques. I have used my spiderweb pattern and spiderweb laser cut to create this collection.
Final Collection
Final Evaluation By researching into digital printing laser cutting, 3D printing and customised printing, it has helped to inform me of the new technology within in the fashion industry and how it would work both on a smaller scale and on a larger scale within industry. This has helped me, as when I have been creating designs and patterns, I have had to think about my design ideas before using them as part of a collection. For example, I have learnt how the laser cutter is used and that it needs to follow a path in order to create the design. For the pattern to be successful, the inner shape needs to be removed to prevent the fabric from falling through whilst still being attached to the garment. Also with laser cutting I have had to consider it’s placement on my designs as it will cut a hole in the fabric exposing the body/skin, if not lined with another fabric. I have also learnt about digital printing and how it can be combined with other techniques, such as laser cutting to make a more innovative design. However, I have learnt that the design may not always be produced as expected, so it is better to create a sample of the print first to ensure you are happy with it. For my work I have used both digital print and laser cut techniques. For the digital print, I decided to create the mushroom pattern as a sample as I have used this on my final collection. To complete this process, I first hand sketched a picture of a mushroom and scanned it into the computer. From there I opened the image in Photoshop and edited it using different filters and chose my favourite. When I had my final print, I used special transfer paper to print out my design and then use the heat press to transfer the image onto calico. My sample can be seen earlier on in the presentation. I believe that my digital print was successful as the colours have come out clear and bold with no distortion. I have also used the laser cutter. To create my design for this, I found images off the internet and opened them in Illustrator. In Illustrator, I had to create a path around the image outline to create the shape the laser would cut. Once my design was prepared it was sent to the laser cutter. As a path had been created on Illustrator, the laser would follow this to create my design. Again my laser cut sample can be seen earlier in the presentation. I believe that this sample was also successful as the patter worked and looked like a spiderweb. I chose this design purposely as I thought it would work well and be the mot effective. Throughout my work I have used both traditional and digital techniques in my work. An example of a traditional technique is hand drawing my pattern designs before scanning them into the computer. This has added uniqueness and individuality to my work as I have created the designs using inspiration from natural forms. However, this could also cause limitations, as quality and quantity could not be maintained without the use of technology as the process alone is too slow. To enhance these patterns I have used digital techniques such as Photoshop to edit the aesthetics of the pattern design making them more appealing. Finally, I have made some creative decisions to help me choose my final collection. I decide to use my Mushroom Fresco Collection as my final collection as I believe that the garments and colour pallet flow the most effectively. The collection is womenswear for autumn/winter and has an edgy street vibe, again making the style more individual. I have created compatible garments for this collection as well as matching, functional accessories. To support this collection, I have produced an inspiration board and found models wearing garments using my print to accompany my final collection. Overall, I have learnt how the fashion industry use different printing methods to enhance their garments design by improving the aesthetics. Depending on the process used or the combination of processes, will depend on the price of the garment and how unique it is. The more unique and personal the design, the higher the price of the final garment. This is why products that have used customised printing, tend to be more expensive.