Sarajevo by Zoran BNpro

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

SARAJEVO Autumn 2009

Olympic City

The host of the ‘84 Winter Games has reopened for business

MESS Festival

Sarajevo’s 49th International Theatre Festival

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Contents

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents Arriving in Sarajevo

The Basics

Food, history, language and more

Culture & Events

Sports

Where to stay

Dining & Nightlife

Sarajevo’s upcoming festivals

Luxurious suites to backpacker haunts Where to eat Vegetarians beware Cafés The city’s social centres

Nightlife Be prepared to see sunrise

25 ‘Pigeon Square’ in Baščaršija

Sightseeing What to see 28 Mosques, churches and synagogues, oh my!

Around Sarajevo

Visoko’s mysterious pyramids

Getting around

Local, domestic and international transport

Mail, phones & internet

Shopping

Keep in touch

The best of what and where to buy

Directory

Maps & Index

Twisting Avaz Tower

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Street index City centre map City map Country map

44 45 46 48 Autumn 2009

foreWord The heart of Bosnia and Herzegovina is the capital Sarajevo, once a heart-broken, torn and demolished city it has risen above its recent history to once more welcome visitors with its centuries-old tradition of hospitality. This vibrant city can penetrate as deep into the traveller’s soul as it does for residents.

Europe In Your Pocket

With a population of about 400,000 Sarajevo makes full use of its abundance of bustling cafés, local eateries and handicraft shops. One of its unique features, something that has led to it being termed ‘the Jerusalem of Europe’, is its religiously diverse citizenry. Indeed, few places on earth feature an Orthodox and a Catholic church, a mosque and a synagogue within walking distance of each other. A city with characteristics of the East (enriched by the Byzantine and Ottoman empires) and the West (the Roman, Venetian and Austro-Hungarian empires), Sarajevo holds a central charm that visitors feel, encompassing the best of both worlds. The towering tree- and house-studded hilltops that connect to the Dinaric Alps surround the city in its valley setting, while the Miljacka River running through the centre provides a secluded, private and magical atmosphere. Just a few miles out of Sarajevo, the region’s largest and most popular mountains are crowded during the winter season with skiers and hikers coming from all over the country and abroad. The city itself encompasses four quarters: the old town (Baščaršija), the new town, the centre and New Sarajevo. Each district provides every traveller endless opportunities for relaxation, vigorous sightseeing and, above all, the unique experiences gained as you share this city with Sarajevo’s locals.

Cover story Sarajevo has always been known for its fresh clean drinking water, and in previous centuries numerous fountains and Sebiljs - larger and more ornate kiosk-shaped fountains - could be found all over the city. Today, roughly one-tenth of the fountains remain, while the only Sebilj still standing is the one pictured here, which is located in Baščaršija.

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Sarajevo In Your Pocket ESTV d.o.o. Bosnia and Herzegovina sarajevo@inyourpocket.com bihac@inyourpocket.com banjaluka@inyourpocket.com mostar@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1840-4901 © ESTV d.o.o. Published 3 times per year 20.000 copies

Sarajevo In Your Pocket

Our team in Russia is preparing a rather special In Your Pocket guide right now to tie in with the 1150th aniversary of the city of Velikiy Novgorod. Look out for a special supplement in our next Russian guides and online at russia. inyourpocket.com. Elsewhere, you can now get your hands on Sarajevo In Your Pocket when visiting the Bosnian capital, and the same team - who have successfully pocketed Slovenia and Bosnia - are now turning their attention to Italy, and to Venice. We welcome enquiries from anyone who would like to take part in our Pocket Revolution, either by contributing content or starting up an IYP. Send us an email at publisher@inyourpocket.com.

Editorial Editor Yuri Barron Writers Yuri Barron, Ian Rohr, Christian Jennings Researcher Mersiha Drinjakovic, Emina Becic, Amra Usanovic Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaite Consulting Craig Turp Photos Dejan Vekic and John Roberts Maps Emir Haracic

Text and photos copyright PIYP s.r.o. 2000-2006. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Management Directors Igor Blaha dipl.ecc & Niko Slavnic M.sc Executive Director: Zinaida Ilaria Tel.: + 387 61 144 310 Marketing, PR and operations management: ZI Public Relations Consultancy Tel.: + 387 33 228 616

The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

Editor’s note

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arriving in saraJevo By bus Both of Sarajevo’s bus stations are busy places, especially the main one near the train station which serves the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina and most international destinations. If you arrive here you can get a tram (number 1) or bus into the centre or grab a cab for around 5-6 KM. There is also an ATM here and a few cafés and bars nearby if the journey has been long, gruelling or both.If you are coming from or heading to a destination in the Republika Srpska, Serbia proper or Montenegro you will arrive at or depart from Lukavica (aka Istochno Sarajevo) bus station in east Sarajevo. This station is on the fringes of the city and you can either get a taxi into town (about 25 KM) or a bus from the local terminal which is about a 200 metre walk from the station. Cash can be obtained from the machine at the nearby TOM shopping centre. Signage at this bus station is predominately in Cyrillic script. If you are getting a taxi to the bus station make sure your driver knows which one you want - you can do this by explaining your destination to him.

By car

Jahornina in autumn

Sarajevo’s roads are much improved from a few years ago but this in turn may have contributed to the ever-increasing volume of traffic. Coming in and out of town is fairly straightforward with good signposting to the Centar but once in the heart of town non-local drivers need to contend with narrow streets, lots of one-way and ‘No Entry’ roads and the local drivers, who tend to be impatient behind the wheel and don’t mind using their horn to give a blast to anyone too slow to respond to a changed traffic signal. Those used to congested inner-cities won’t find it too much of a problem but the more hesitant may be best to leave the car parked at or near their hotel and use public transport, taxis and foot-power for getting around, all of which are less stressful and will give you the opportunity to see and experience a lot more than if you are gripping the wheel and gritting your teeth. This also gets rid of the problem of finding somewhere to park in the car-crowded centre. Drivers are required by law to have their headlights on at all times. This is mainly for safety reasons and when you enter one of Bosnia’s long tunnels you’ll be glad it is so. Another safety factor to bear in mind is that roads can be hazardous during the winters, with ice, fog and snow providing a challenge to all but the most experienced of mountainous terrain in winter drivers.

By plane Sarajevo airport (International Airport Butmir) is small and rarely too busy, helping it avoid the long baggage, immigration and customs queues that plague many of Europe’s other capital city airports. It has the facilities found at most airports including tourist information and currency exchange, a bar and cafe, an ATM and a souvenir shop. There is no regular scheduled bus service to the centre so your best bets are to either prearrange a transfer through your hotel or grab a cab - there are usually quite a few lined up outside and the 12km trip will cost about 20-25 KM (€10-12.50). As with all international airports, it’s not unheard of for taxi drivers to overcharge for a ride into town, especially if you’re a foreigner - make sure the metre is switched on before you depart.

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By train Bosnia’s rail infrastructure was badly damaged during the war and has yet to return to pre-war levels of operation. Most international visitors arriving by train will be coming from Zagreb or Budapest on the daily trains which arrive at 18:30 and 6:25 respectively. There is also a train to and from Ploče on the southern coast of Croatia which is worth looking into as the journey, via Mostar, is very scenic. Sarajevo’s train station is right near the bus station and you can get into the heart of town via a bus, tram or 5-6 KM taxi ride. There is no ATM at the station but there is one about 200 metres away at the bus station - just turn right when you come out of the station, go around and past the main post office and the bus station is straight ahead.

Tourist information Sarajevo City Administration Hamdije

K r e š ev l j a kov i ć a 3 , t e l . (+387) 33 20 83 40, fax (+387) 33 20 83 41, grad@ sarajevo.ba, www.sarajevo. ba, www.sarajevo-tourism. com. This agency provides travel-related information on Sarajevo and its vicinity to domestic and foreign visitors, as well as to domestic tour operators and their partner tourist agencies from abroad. Tourism Community of FB &H Branilaca Sarajeva, no 21/II, tel. (+387) 33 252 928, fax (+387) 33 252 901, media@tourism.ba, www. bhtourism.ba.

Tourist Community for the Sarajevo District

Branilaca Sarajeva 21/IV, tel. (+387) 33 25 02 00/(+387) 33 25 02 02, fax (+387) 33 25 02 04, tour.off@bih.net.ba, www.sarajevo-tourism. com. Info point (airport): Open: 10-17h, MondayThursday, 12-17h Friday-Sunday QOpen , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu 10:00 - 17:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.

Autumn 2009

BasiCs Learn about the facts and figures, the habits and attitudes of people and a little bit of Bosanski for a full filling time in Sarajevo.

Disabled travellers Bigger shopping centeres in the city offer disabled facilities, including toilets and so does the main post office in the centre of the city. Pedestrian crossings in the city have dropped kerbs, and large intersections in the centre are equipped with sound signalling systems. Most restaurants and cafés are inaccessible to disabled patrons, and hardly any offer toilet facilities for the disabled.

Price Level McDonald’s Big Mac (There is no McDonald’s restaurant for that matter) Loaf of white bread Snickers bar Litre of vodka Bottle of local beer (1/2 liter) Pack of Marlboros Public transport ticket Roll of Kodak 200 speed film, 24 exposures

in Sarajevo or BiH 0.90 KM 1 KM 15 KM 1.15 KM 3.30 KM 1.80 KM 2 KM

Money & Exchange The Bosnian currency is the Convertible Mark (KM), which was introduced in 1998. Coins come in the following denominations: 0.05, 0.10 0.20, 0.50, 1, 2 and 5. Banknotes come in denominations of 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200. Since 11 October 2001 the Convertible Mark has been tied to the Euro at a rate of €0.51129 = KM1 You can change money at banks or any post office. The differences in exchange rates are negligible. Most banks in Sarajevo will change travellers cheques, American Express, Thomas Cook, VISA and Eurocheques. Western Union money transfers from abroad can be collected from the post office and most banks. You can find ATMs of the major banks present in the country all over the city. Cards widely acceptable in Sarajevo are VISA, VISA Electron, MasterCard, Maestro, Diners Club and American Express. You can buy almost all goods and services with credit cards. You will need cash for green markets, some small shops and bars, kiosks, parking fees and taxis.

Basic data Country’s population: 4,590,310 (July 2008) (48 %

Bosniaks, 37.1 % Serbs, 14.3 % Croats and 0.6 % others) Sarajevo’s population: 402,000 Surface: Total 51,209km2 Longest river: Drina, 346km Highest mountain peak: Maglic, 2386m Land boundaries: 1,459 Borders with adjoining country: Montenegro - 225km, Croatia - 932km, Serbia - 302km

Politics:

Bosnia and Herzegovina is an emerging federal democratic republic. The Council of Ministers of BiH is the head of government. Date of next local elections: General Elections in 2010. Members of the Presidency: Haris Silajdzic, Zeljko Komsic and Nebojsa Radmanovic Chairman of the Council of Ministers: Nikola Spiric Governing party: multi-party system

Local time:

Sarajevo is in the Central European Time Zone: GMT + 1 hours (in winter), GMT + 2 during daylight saving time.

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Security Touch wood, Sarajevo is a safe and secure city, a million miles away from its wartime past. Bosnian people are welcoming, friendly to and tolerant of foreigners - they’ve had thousands of them in their country for fifteen years - and it’s an engagingly safe place. Taxis are cheap, women walk home, the city-centre and environs are friendly and largely secure. Outside of some of its more deprived and isolated suburbs and quarters, Sarajevo is one of the safest cities in Europe. Obviously, normal, basic safety precautions should be observed, but, for instance, any fights in or outside pubs, bars and clubs are extremely rare. The occasional presence on the streets of Roma exploiting their children as begging accoutrements is an unavoidable let-down common everywhere in the region - except in Kosovo where they are still largely too afraid of violence to leave their settlements. Best not to give them money - it goes not to their well-being but their parents’ grubby pockets. And on the other end of the spectrum, the vibrant organized crime scene in Bosnia means that some real organized gang violence is mostly confined to the occasional shooting and car-bombing in the cities’ suburbs.

Smoking In terms of smoking, it is safest, as with bars, to assume that everywhere you will visit in Sarajevo is a smoking zone, be it bars, restaurants, cafes, clubs or hotels, except where very strictly classified otherwise. This reviewer, for instance, once watched all three female staff at a health-club smoke while on-duty. A very high percentage of Bosnians smoke, both men and women, and a great deal of teenagers too. Despite vague and inaudible efforts to adhere to forthcoming EU policy once Bosnia eventually joins the Union, the idea of not being able to smoke anywhere in Bosnia would, rather nicely, be considered sacrilegious by much of its population. It is perfectly common to see people smoking in restaurants while others are eating at the same table, many people smoke half-way through a course, and the whole country is delightfully free of the smoking regulations so common in much of the rest of Europe and North America.

National holidays January 1 - New Year, (all offices closed) March 1 - Independence day (all offices closed - only in Federation of BiH) May 1 - International Labor Day (all offices and majority of businesses closed) November 25 - National day (all offices closed)

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BasiCs Tourists, back-packers, visitors and business travellers should be aware that this is a full-on smoking country, and that any complaints by outsiders about cigarette smoke and the perils thereof will be met with total derision and scornful laughter by both Bosnians and foreigners who live there.

War Take a walk through the centre of Sarajevo, and even fifteen years after the war ended in 1995, bullet-holes, pockmarked pavements hit by mortar and artillery blasts,

and the occasional shredded building that has not been renovated or demolished are all around you. Look down at the pavement when you walk: you’ll see many a familiar shape of a large ‘bears’ paw,’ the residue of an explosive mortar impact on the ground: fading, pink plastic has been poured into some of them to preserve the shape for posterity, sites that are known as ‘Sarajevo roses.’ The war in Bosnia saw 100,000 people die, a million people displaced or turned into refugees before NATO troops, and massive international humanitarian intervention, flooded into Bosnia to try and re-construct the country after the Dayton Peace Accords were signed in 1995.

Language Pronunciation š as in ship č as in cello ž as in pleasure đ in jam dž as in enjoy Niceties & Necessities Yes - Da No - Ne Good - Dobro Please - Molim Thank you - Hvala Sorry! - Izvini Good morning - Dobro jutro Good day - Dobar dan Hello - Zdravo Good night - Laku noć Excuse me! - Oprostite How are you? - Kako si? Practicalities When? - Kada? Where? - Gdje? Who? - Ko? Why? - Zašto? I have... - Ja imam I am... - Ja sam What’s your name? - Kako se zoveš? My name is... - Zovem se I’m from... - Ja sam iz… ...UK - Velike Britanije ...USA - Sjedinjenih Američkih Država I don’t understand - Ne razumijem I don’t speak Bosnian - Ja ne govorim bosanski How much does this cost? - Koliko košta? Signs Open - Otvoreno Closed - Zatvoreno Entrance - Ulaz Exit - Izlaz Push - Gurni Pull - Vuci Numbers 0 - nula 2 - dva 4 - četiri 6 - šest 8 - osam 10 - deset 50 - pedeset

1 - edan 3 - tri 5 - pet 7 - sedam 9 - devet 20 - dvadeset 100 - sto

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Days Monday - ponedjeljak Tuesday - utorak Wednesday - srijeda Thursday - četvrtak Friday - petak Saturday - subota Sunday - nedjelja Months January - januar February - februar March - mart April - april May - maj June - juni July - juli August - avgust September - septembar October - oktobar November - novembar December - decembar Time Now - sada Later - kasnije Today - danas Tomorrow - sutra Yesterday - juče In the morning - ujutro In the afternoon - poslijepodne In the evening - naveče At night - noću Restaurant talk Waiter! - Konobar! A table for two - Sto za dvoje Non-smoking / smoking - nepušačka zona / pušačka zona The menu please - Meni/jelovnik, molim Vas I’d like to order - Želim da naručim Do you have vegetarian food? - Služite li vegetarijansku hranu? Surprise me! - Iznenadite me The bill, please - Račun, molim Vas Bar talk One coffee, please - Jednu kafu, molim Vas A beer, please - Pivo, molim Vas Cheers! - Živjeli! You have beautiful eyes - Imaš lijepe oči Can I have your number - Mogu li dobiti tvoj broj telefona?

Autumn 2009

BasiCs A word from the mayor ries dating back to the Ottoman Empire or Austrian rule. They can listen to the whisper of the past and perhaps one day personally talk about the warm, welcoming people and about a city where dreams and reality meet. This walk will open wide all the doors of the past, and every corner will tell its remarkable story, from the crowded streets to the silence and shade of Sarajevo’s gardens. The idea of publishing this type of guide dates back several years. The aim was to enable easier access to information required to take you through the diversity of the city of Sarajevo. The guide contains useful tips and directions to places of interest as well as an overview of the city scene. In order to realise the idea of the city guide a wait was required for the segments of the past and the present to join.

Welcome to Sarajevo, a city of diversity and friendship. Throughout its history, Sarajevo has witnessed numeous changes. As a kind of a link between the East and the West, as a meeting place of different cultures, ideas and customs, Sarajevo has retained each sequence of its past, each mark of the times and rulers that walked these lands. A walk through the heart of the city simultaneaously becomes a walk through all the periods of the city’s existence. Every visitor can daydream about the sto-

Today Sarajevo is a continously expanding modern cosmopolitan centre where new and imposing buildings rise. Thanks to events such as the Sarajevo Film Festival, Jazz Festival and ‘Baščarškijske Noči’ Festival, Sarajevo has become an international metropolis of modern art and culture. To this day diversity, opposing views, innovative ideas, different cultures and generations, old and new architecture and old and new art flows all join up in Sarajevo. The citizens of Sarajevo create that distinct city feel and the key link enabling the harmonization of differences. However, Sarajevo does not belong to its citizens only but to all those who consider it their own and who visit it with good intentions. Dr Alija Behmen

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BasiCs Bosnian Cuisine If you like meat, you’ll love Bosnia and Herzegovina. Meat is a standard for any meal. However, there is still lots of interesting meals you can make do if you are a vegetarian. A typical breakfast is very different from a traditional English, American or Australian breakfast, but they can be found in the occasional restaurant. Omlettes, hams, eggs and cheeses are very popular and can be found even in most places. For budget travelers the large supermarkets carry fruit yogurt, muesli, and juices and the open markets are always filled with fresh fruit. Bakeries open early and sell hot rolls, croissants, brown bread, apple and cherry strudles which you can take to a cafe and enjoy with a Cevapi sa kajmakom morning cappucino. All travellers should at some point enter a buregdzenica and Cheeses are also prepared and strained in a variety of try the famous traditional pita dishes of burek, zeljanica, ways and are absolutely delicious. The vegetarian traveller sirnica, and krompirusa. They are all made from scratch will have a hell of a time getting through these which can and have been a traditional meal since Ottoman times. ordered as a large starter or side dish in restaurants, Burek is a meat pie wrapped in filo-dough. The zeljanica bought in supermarkets or at the market where is has is made from spinach and cheese. Sirnica is made from a been freshly and naturally prepared. fresh, homemade cheese and krompirusa is diced potatoes with spices. Usually one portion (porcija) is enough to stuff Travnicki a white, feta-like cheese from the Travnik district you. A porcija costs between 2-3KM. They may ask if you in central Bosnia. It is a bit salty and very popular with like pavlaka spread on top. Pavlaka is a fresh cream that ‘meze’, which is the tradition of slow drinking and eating tastes wonderful with the pita. Thin yogurt is also a popular throughout the course of a whole day. drink alongside your pita. Meat eating travellers should try out the wide range of Vlašicki similar to travnicki cheese. It is a highland available meats and should not miss the typical rostiljnica cheese from the mountain villages on Vlašic Mountain in that serves up a range of grilled meats specialities. central Bosnia. Whether chicken, beef, lamb, or pork, they come fresh from the mountainside. It is common practice here to raise all Livanjski is more similar to the dry yellow cheeses of animals free range, and with no hormones or chemicals. Dalmatia. It is very tasty and usually more expensive than Most people say they can taste the difference. others. It originates from the west Bosnian town of Livno. Mladi Sir literally means young cheese. There isn’t an Here is a list of the most popular traditional dishes: equivalent to it in English. It has a soft texture and is unsalted. Often times it is served with a cream sauce on top. It is very healthy. Cevapi small meat sausages of lamb and beef mix. They Kajmak is the most difficult of all cheeses to translate. are usually served with fresh onions and pita bread on the It is the top layer skimmed from milk, it is creamy and side. Cevapi usually come in pointer finger size sausages extremely tasty. Kajmak and ustipak (doughnut type roll) and are offered by five or ten pieces. is a wonderful appetizer. Teletina is veal, usually served in cutlets. Veal in BiH Iz mjeha sheep milk poured into a specially sewn sheep is not produced by locking calves in a cage to ensure skin ‘bag.’ After a time the dry cheese is taken out of the softer meat. skin container and the result is a strong, dry cheese that resembles real parmesan. Jagnjetina lamb grilled over an open fire. Musaka a meat pie made of minced beef, very similar to shepherds pie. Filovane paprike fried peppers stuffed with minced meat and spices. Pršut air dried ham, similar to italian proscuitto. Sudžuk beef sausages with a similar form to pepperoni. Suho Meso dried meat, either beef or pork. Sarme meat and rice rolled in cabbage or grape leaves. ‘Ispod Saca’ similar to a dutch oven. A metal dish is placed on hot coals, the food is placed in the dish and covered by a lid which is then completely covered in hot coals and left to bake. Inat Kuća is a great place to sample traditional Bosnian fare

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Autumn 2009

history Sarajevo is the administrative and cultural capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Situated at the far southern end of the Dinaric Alps, it lies between the mountains of Romanija, Bjelašnica, Igman and Trebević, and through it flows the narrow, shallow Miljacka River, which rises close to Pale, five miles due east of the city.

the city’s identity, most recently surfacing during the four-year siege of the city from 1992-1995. Austro-Hungarian Rule

Sarajevo is stretched across an area known as Sarajevo Field, and there are numerous archeological findings attesting to settlements in this area dating back to the Neolithic period, as well as records that point to a significant Ilyiran presence in the area. A primary Neolithic site was found at Butmir, outside Sarajevo. Ilyrian tribes flourished in the region from about 1,000 BC until their final conquest by the Romans around 9AD. For the Romans, with their aggressive, commercially-oriented and warlike policy of spreading the Pax Romana, the mountainous country that lay just next door to them became a source of mineral wealth, particularly silver.

The city’s second architectural expansion started following the Austro-Hungarian occupation in the late 19th century and lasted until the beginning of World War I in 1914, after the 1878 treaty of Berlin gave the Austro-Hungarian Empire a mandate to administer Bosnia. The city was modernized during this period. Austro-Hungarians established the city’s first public transportation system and the first telephone lines. Many cultural and educational institutions were founded in this period as well. The National (Land) Museum, the First Sheriate Law High School and the National Theatre. Sarajevo City Hall, Ashkenazi Synagogue, and Catholic Cathedral were also added to the expanding city. The growth of Sarajevo was interrupted on June 28, 1914 when Gavrilo Princip assassinated AustroHungarian Archduke Franz Ferdinand and his wife Sophia during their visit to Sarajevo, setting off the chain of events that led to the start of World War I.

Spread of Christianity

Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes

Between 6-800 AD arrived the Slavs, there was widespread conversion to Christianity, and the next five hundred years saw Bosnia at the focal point of influence through varying periods of conquest, control and administration by Serbs, Hungarians, Byzantines and Croats. The medieval town of Hodidjed was located in the vicinity of today’s Sarajevo; however, the actual name of the city, which comes from the Turkish words saray and ovasi, meaning ‘court’ and ‘field’ respectively, indicates that Sarajevo is a creation of the Ottoman Empire.

Following the Treaty of Versailles in 1918 that ended World War I, Sarajevo, along with Bosnia and Herzegovina, became a part of the newly-formed Kingdom of Serbs, Croats, and Slovenes. It remained within the later-renamed Kingdom of Yugoslavia until the beginning of World War II, when the monarchy was abolished and, following the end of the war, the new socialist Yugoslavia was created.

The Ottomans

The general plan for development of Sarajevo was adopted in 1945, and the city that suffered tremendous losses during World War II under the Germans expanded. German occupation had started in 1941, and Bosnia was assimilated into an atrocious Croatian Ustasha nationalist entity, where multiple atrocities were carried out, particularly against Serbs, many of which took place at the notorious Jasenovac concentration camp south of Zagreb where between 50-70,000 people, mainly Serbs, were slaughtered. In 1943 Josep Brod Tito, leading the Bosnian partisans on covert operations in the mountain fastnesses of the centre of the country, established the basis of the post-war Yugoslavia, of which Bosnia would be one of six republics. Subsequent to the war, Sarajevo was not only rebuilt but considerably expanded as well. It almost tripled in size during its third expansion which took place during the formative years of socialist Yugoslavia. By 1984, when the city hosted the 14th Winter Olympic Games, Sarajevo was a modern capital city of around 500,000 people.

First Settlements

Bosnia had starting emerging as an independent state since the mid-1100s, and became a kingdom under King Tvrtko the 1st in 1377, just as the Turks started their foray into the country, presaging the Ottoman invasion which took place between 1430 to 1592, when the last town in Bosnia - Bihac - fell into Turkish hands. The country was now part of the Ottoman Empire, and just in case there was any question that the country’s religious mix of Orthodox, Christianity and the indigenous Bosnian church was not sufficient, Islam joined the fray. Sarajevo became one of the most powerful cities in the Turks’ new frontier territories, and although the capital moved twice, to Banja Luka and Travnik, Sarajevo remained the nerve-centre. Sarajevo was founded in the mid 15th century by the Ottoman governor of Bosnia - Isa-bey Ishakovic - to house the area’s Ottoman government. Anyone strolling through Sarajevo will easily notice the city’s three distinct parts, each of which are reflective of the historical period in which it was built. The initial expansion of the city occurred during the first 150 years or so of Ottoman rule. Many of the city’s architectural gems were built during this period, such as Gazi Husrev Bey’s and The Emperor’s Mosques. Baščaršija - the city’s once-great bazaar - was also constructed during the same period. By the beginning of the 17th century, Sarajevo grew into a vibrant community of artisans and an important merchant trading post, as well as one of the most significant cities in the European part of the Ottoman Empire. In 1697 Sarajevo was attacked and burnt by Prince Eugene of Savoy, the final of series of unremitting attacks by the Hapsburgs and the Venetians. The Ottomans moved the capital to Travnik, and Sarajevo started to refuse to accept governors sent from Istanbul. This independent, self-determining and occasionally bloody-mindedness of spirit was to become a core feature of

Sarajevo In Your Pocket

Yugoslavia and Socialism

Looking Back Talk to Bosnians about the Tito era, and it is fondly remembered as a halcyon period set in a kind of aspic of nostalgia, of benevolent socialism, when everybody had a car, a state apartment, holidays on the coast every year, and life was a given. Yes and no, is the answer. The dream was founded on political repression and kept alive by wildly unrealistic economic planning and strategies, based on much heavy foreign borrowing. But for most people, it functioned, Tito kept nationalism at bay, and the country appeared to prosper. It was during this period that Sarajevo developed a reputation as something of a cultural centre, a party town, and acquired the rather clichéd adjective that is so often used to describe it: cosmopolitan. But it was a tougher, fiercely independent and more gutsy series of characteristics that was to carry it through the years of the 1992-1995 war.

sarajevo.inyourpocket.com

Culture & events Sarajevo brims with an affordable and diverse cultural life. It is proudly host to the Sarajevo Film Festival, which in fact in one of the most important in south eastern Europe. Festivals, performances, concerts and events are happening in and around town almost all the time so be sure to keep an eye (or an ear) out for some cultural entertainment.

Vrooom City Pub 9 December 2009

Music events

27. Sarajevo’s inaugural eco-food fair runs from 18 - 21 December, and includes tastings and competitions as well as various lectures, conferences and round-table discussion with participants from Bosnia and abroad.

Terminal Festival - electronic music Various venues 9 - 12 October 2009 Hladno Piva Dom Mladih, Skenderija 23 October French Hardcore Night Klub AG 27 October Concierto de Aranjuez by J. Rodrigo National Theatre 30 October Halloween with Lutzenkirchen Skenderija 31 October 2009 Anouar Brahem Bosnian Cultural Centre 4 November 2009 S.A.R.S. Coloseum Club 7 November Analena OKC Abrasevic 4 December Analena Access Club 5 December

Festivals Agro Food Skenderija Centre, tel. (+387) 33 21 73

Baščaršijske Noći Dalmatinska 2/1, tel. (+387)

33 20 79 29/(+387) 33 20 79 72, fax (+387) 33 207 921, sarajevoar t@bih.net.ba, w w w.bascarsijskenoci.ba. “Baščaršija Nights” is the tradi tional summer festival that takes place each year for the entire month of July on Sarajevo’s streets, squares, theaters, and galleries. The festi val offers ballets and theater performances, exhibits, concerts of popular and classical music, and special programs for children and youth. Q Free admission.

International Theater Festival (MESS) B-3, Maršala

Tita 54/1, tel. (+387) 33 20 03 92/(+387) 33 21 19 72, fax (+387) 33 21 19 72, mess@mess.ba, www.mess. ba. The International Theater Festival (MESS) has been held since the 1960s. The event attracts various international theatre groups as well as some of the most prestigious names of theatre. MESS is the perfect opportunity to watch masterpieces of performing arts at a low price, and usually without advance reservations. This year it runs from 16 - 27 October, and will feature 26 performances by ensembles from 14 countries. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.

Sarajevo Film Festival B-4, Zelenih Beretki 12/I, tel. (+387) 33 22 15 16, fax (+387) 33 26 33 81, info-sff@sff.ba, www.sff.ba. The Sarajevo Film Festival (SFF) is the most prestigious film festival in south eastern Europe, and aims to support and promote the art of film within the region. The festival has a distinctly international character and seems to have increased in both scale and notoriety each year since it was first held in 1995. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.

Sarajevo Jazz Fest Poštanski Pretinac 600, tel. (+387) 33 55 04 80/(+387) 61 26 71 14, fax (+387) 33 55 04 81, info@jazzfest. ba, www.jazzfest.ba. The international music festival Jazz Fest has been held since 1996. Every year Jazz Fest hosts some of the most prestigious jazz musicians from around the world. If you are in Sarajevo in November, don’t miss it.

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Autumn 2009

Culture & Events Culture Department of the Spanish Embassy

La Boheme at the National Theatre

Sarajevska Zima (Sarajevo Winter) Maršala Tita 9a,

tel. (+387) 33 20 79 45/(+387) 33 20 79 48, fax (+387) 33 20 79 48, ibrosa@bih.net.ba, www.sarajevskazima. ba. Sarajevo Winter has become a traditional gathering of artists from all over the world ever since it was first held in 1984 during the XIV Winter Olympic Games. The program features concerts, exibitions in galleries and museums, theater plays. There is something for everyone.

Cinemas Apolo Mis Irbina 2, tel. (+387) 33 44 52 01. Multiplex Cinema City Titova 26, tel. (+387) 33

228 008, fax. (+387) 33 228 008, info@cinemacity. ba, www.cinemacity.ba Unitic Fra Anđela Zvizdovića 1, tel. (+387) 33 29 50 01. QOpen 18:00 - 20:30.

Concert Halls Sarajevo Arts Agency Dalmatinska 2/I, tel. (+387) 33

20 79 29/(+387) 33 20 79 21, fax (+387) 33 20 79 72, koncagsa@bih.net.ba, www.sarajevoarts.ba. The Sarajevo Arts Agency organises a variety of concerts and festivals around Sarajevo and the rest of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Sarajevo Philharmonic B-4, Obala Kulina 9, tel. (+387) 33 66 65 19/(+387) 33 66 65 20, fax (+387) 33 66 65 21. The Sarajevo Philharmonic Orchestra is able to trace its roots back to before World War I, when serious musicians in the region were engaged in military instrumental music and other ensembles such as the Military Music Orchestra, the Student Orchestra of the Great Gymnasium of Sarajevo, the Musical Choir for Violins, of the Serbian vocal association “Sloga”, and Mannergesangverein, a musical society comprised of Austrian officials.

Culture Centres British Council Ljubljanska 9, tel. (+387) 33 250 220,

fax (+387) 33 250 240, British.Council@britishcouncil. ba, www.britishcouncil.ba. The British Council is the UK’s leading international organisation for educational and cultural relations. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00, Fri 08:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Information Centre: Opening Times are from 12:00 - 17:00. Centre Andre Malraux Mula Mustafe Bašeskije 8, tel. (+387) 33 206 889, fax (+387) 33 668 605, malraux@bih.net.ba, www.malraux.ba. A French cultural centre based in Sarajevo. Library and information available for French speaking expatriates. French lessons for locals. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sat 10:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun. The Library has different opening times: Monday, Wednesday, Friday: 10:00-18:00h Tuesday and Thursday: 14:00-18:00h

Sarajevo In Your Pocket

Čekaluša 14, tel. (+387) 33 223 331/(+387) 33 278 560, fax (+387) 33 278 582, ofcult@bih.net.ba. Part of the Spanish Embassy, the cultural department organizes events related to Spanish and Latin American culture. Ask here also for Spanish language courses. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00 & 15:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Goethe Institut B-5, Bentbaša 1a, tel. (+387) 33 570 000, fax (+387) 33 570 030, info@sarajevo.goethe. org, www.goethe.de/sarajevo. The cultural centre from Germany organizes german language courses, exhibitions, concerts and so on relating to German culture. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Islamic Republic of Iran Culture Centre Ferhadija 2, tel. (+387) 33 711 055. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Turkish Cultural Information Centre B-4, Mula Mustafe Bašeskije do 31, tel. (+387) 33 271 150. Movies on Tuesdays at 17:00 (English subtitles). QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

Galleries Collegium Artisticum A-2, Terezije bb (Centar Sken-

derija), tel. (+387) 33 270 750/(+387) 33 204 352, fax (+387) 33 270 751, cagalerija@open.net.ba, www. collegium.ba. Formed in 1975, Collegium Artisticum provided a gallery and meeting place for the nation’s three premier art associations. Operating throughout the war years, the Collegium remains a gathering venue for many of the city’s artists and intellectuals and has been involved in a range of cultural programmes that cover the arts in all their forms. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

Galerija 10m² ((Camille Laurelli)) B-4, Stakleni

Grad, Ferhadija 17, tel. (+387) 63 95 21 97/(+387) 61 917 037. Q Thu-Sun 14:00-19:00, closed Mon-Wed

Retrospectrum B-4, Zelenih Beretki 8, tel. (+387) 33

266 550, fax (+387) 33 664 162, ugbih@yahoo.com. Q Tue-Sat 12:00-20:00, closed Sun & Mon

Theatres Sarajevo Youth Theatre B-3, Kulovića 8, tel. (+387)

33 44 25 72, fax (+387) 33 20 57 99, pozmladi@bih. net.ba, www.pozoristemladih.ba. Formed in 1997, the Sarajevo Youth Theatre was the result of a merger between two other theatre groups for young people that had been in existence since 1950. It has won numerous accolades and awards and some of its members have gone to become amongstBosnia’s best-known performers. As their website says, ‘Sarajevo’s Youth Theatre has been and has remained a theatre for all generations.’ SARTR (Sarajevo War Theatre) Ćemaluša 1, tel. (+387) 33 66 40 70. Often performing for beer and cigarettes during the siege, when most artists and performers had fled the city, these days the Sarajevo War Theatre (SARTR) is a successful professional theatre company with an international reputation. During the war the company gave over 2000 performances, often in the most difficult of conditions, as part of the ‘theatre against death’ motive that lay at the heart of its formation and existence. The National Theatre B-4, Obala Kulina Bana 9, tel. (+387) 33 22 16 82/(+387) 33 66 36 47, fax (+387) 33 44 51 38, npsa@bih.net.ba, www.nps.ba. The National Theatre of Sarajevo has been performing both in Bosnia and abroad since its founding in 1921. During the last 85 + years its performers, directors, choreographers and other staff have won great acclaim and numerous awards. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00 & 16:00 - 19:30. Tickets: €2.50-5.

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Culture & Events

sarajevo.inyourpocket.com

Autumn 2009

Culture & Events INTERNATIONAL THEATER FESTIVAL

MESS - SARAJEVO Sarajevo is a city of a long theatre tradition and culture, and MESS Festival (Small and Experimental Stages), was one of the best theatre events in the territory of the former Yugoslavia. The MESS Festival forty nine years of its existence undoubtedly promoted modern theatre expression. Since 1960, the year when the Festival was established, numerous ensembles from almost all the world’s major theatre centers (Warsaw, Paris, New York, Moscow, Zurich, Bologna, Bucharest, Budapest…) have taken part in it. As it was impossible to organize an International Theatre Festival during the siege of the City, in 1993 the International Theatre and Film Festival started presentations and productions of artistic programs whose aim was, under the siege conditions, to contribute to the cultural life in Sarajevo, international reputation of the city, to the establishment and development of international cooperation. Culture as a fundamental human need was used as one of the ways to break up to the siege, to maintain life, to cherish quality… Within its activities, the MESS organized the First International Film Festival in 1993, which was estimated to have been the most important event in 1993, then the Festival of the Sarajevo Alternative Scene. The theatre production was also continued so that from 1993 to the end of the siege ten performances were produced, among which there were “Waiting for Godot” directed by Susan Sontag, “Alcestis” , “Silk Drums”, “In the Country of Last Things”, “Golden Eternal Braid” directed by Haris Pašović, “Circus” directed by Peter Schumann. In 1994 the Sarajevo Festival Ensemble, as part of the MESS Festival, with two of its performances did its large tour of Europe, organized by Peter Brook Theatre, Bouffes du Nord (Paris), playing on the stages of Paris, Amsterdam, Geneva, Berlin… The MESS also organized a multimedia festival “Baby Universe” (the summer of ’94) and a large project Memory Module (’96) under which published were the translations of Paul Auster’s books, Claude Lanzmann’s “Shoah”, and presented was the series of “Mahabharata”, held were concerts and exhibitions… In 1997, the Festival was resumed. Inter alia the following were presented: Volksbühne am Rosa Luxemburg Platz Theater, Stary Teatr, Picollo Theater, Theatre des Bouffes du Nord, Centre Choregraphique National D’Orleans, Living Theatre, Divadlo Komedie, Theater Lliure, Rosas Company, Theater A.D. Ruhr, The Moving House Theater Company, Meno Fortas Theatre Company, Schaubuehne am Lehniner Platz, schauspielhannover, staatsoperhannover, Moskovskii Teatr Yunogo Zritelya, Katona Jozsef Színház, Le Volcan – Scène Nationale du Havre, Pandur Theatres, State Academic Drama Theater named T. Shevchenko, Centre for Theatre Practices “Gardzienice”, Teatro delle Albe, Les Ballets C. de la B., Footsbarn Theatre, Oskaro Koršunovo Teatras, National Theatre Ivan Vazov, Betty Nansen Teatret, Complicite, Kretakor Szinhaz… And directors and actors such as Eugenio Baraba, Frank Castorf, Giorgio Strehler, Josef Nadj, Ariel Garcia Valdes, Phillipe Adrien, Rudi Häusermann, Roberto Ciulli, Anne Teresa de Keersmaker, Paolo Magelli, Eimuntas Nekrosius, Thomas Ostermeier, Wlodzimierz Staniewski, Mark Tompkins, Pippo Delbono, Olivier Py, Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui, Mark Tompkins, Alexandar Morfov, Oskaras Koršunovas, Luc Dunberry, Robert Wilson, Simon McBurney, Arpad Schilling, Nicolas Stemann, Marco Martinelli, Peter Brook, Kama Ginkas, Tomaž Pandur, Rodrigo Garcia, Andriy Zholdak… Unrestrained theatre play and specific theatre expression established themselves as the Festival aesthetic and ethical postulates. This means that the Festival is open for contemporary trends in the world theatre (and exchange with it) without the narrowing of horizons of understanding the theatre language, respecting the freedom of author’s concept and system, his attitude to “old” and “new” forms of expression and content. Therefore, the Festival aspires to be an annual review of the most interesting theatre achievements, professional theatres, theatre companies, ensembles projects conceived and carried out throughout the world the quality of which is professionally recognized. The Festival also has a production character... During the Festival, symposiums will be held and they will also have international character with the participation of critics, theatre analysts, drama artists and writers. During their stay, many outstanding guests will visit faculties, conduct workshops and creative activities. The realisation of the 49th International Theater Festival MESS Sarajevo has started already. As usual, the MESS Festival will be held from 16 - 26 October on the all theater stages of Sarajevo, Zenica, but Gorazde and Srebrenica, too.

Sarajevo In Your Pocket

sarajevo.inyourpocket.com

sPorts & aCtivities Swimming Pools

Termalna Rivijera Butmirska cesta 18, Ilidža, tel.

(+387) 33 771 000, fax (+387) 33 771 010, info@ terme-ilidza.ba, www.terme-ilidza.ba. Large water park in Ilidža. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Pools: 9.00 a.m. - 9.00 p.mTropical garden: 8.00 a.m. - 10.00 p.m. Admission: KM 9-17. PTAFLGBKC

Tennis Tennis Centre Stup Nikole Šopa 217 (Bojnička bb), tel. (+387) 33 468 231/(+387) 33 457 286, contact@ tcs.ba, www.tcs.ba. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.

Tennis Head Akademija Donji Hotonj II/B, tel. (+387)

33 482 416/(+387) 61 172 894, fax (+387) 33 482 415, info@headakademija.ba, www.headakademija. ba.

Hiking Paragliding on Jahorina

Extreme Sports Scorpio Extreme Sports Club Tel. (+387) 61 60

81 30/+387 61 78 81 05, info@scorpio.ba, www. scorpio.ba.

Fitness Centres Club Fighter Branilaca Dobrinje 4a, tel. (+387) 61 23

11 29, fighter@bih.net.ba, clubfighter.net. Dino company B-3, Mis Irbina 10, tel. (+387) 61 55 07 80/(+387) 61 55 07 81, dino.company@gmail.com. Fitness Centre Body Art B-2; B-3; C-2; D-2, Alipašina bb, Zetra, tel. (+387) 33 276 123. Hotel Green Ustanicka bb, Ilidža, tel. (+387) 33 63 97 01, greenp@bih.net.ba, www.green.co.ba. L.A. Lifetime Fitness Dzemala BIjedica 166a, tel. (+387) 61 10 94 32, info@lafitness.ba, www. lafitness.ba. Triumph Sports for Kids Semira Fraste 13, tel. (+387) 61 01 84 82. Youth House Džemala Bijedića bb, tel. +387 33 660 519, centar@youthhousesarajevo.ba, www. youthhousesarajevo.ba.

Paintball Patinball CKP B-2; B-3; C-2; D-2, Alipašina bb, Zetra, tel. (+387) 62 12 22 26, fax ((+387) 33 55 49 06, int@ ckp.ba, ckp.ba.

Stadiums & Arenas CSC Ilidža Mala Aleja 67, Ilidža, tel. +387 33 63 65 14.

CSC Skenderija A-2, Terezije bb, tel. (+387) 33 20 11 93, sport@skenderija.ba, http://www.skenderija.ba. Grbavica Stadium Zvornička 27, tel. (+387) 33 71 52 01. Koševo Stadium D-2, Patriotske lige 35, tel. (+387) 33 26 87 61. Ramiz Salčin Hall Semira Frašte bb, tel. (+387) 33 77 75 90.

sarajevo.inyourpocket.com

Hotel Termag Polji-

ce bb, Jahorina, tel. (+387) 57 27 04 22, w w w.termaghotel. com. The hills around Sarajevo are alive with the sounds of a range of ou tdoor activities throughout most of the year. Well-known for winter sports, the region also offers plenty to do in th e warmer months, including hiking and biking through the beautiful Bosnian mountains. The Hotel Termag, the big place situated on the slopes of Jahorina, offers a range of activities for guests or day visitors. In summer, mountain and quad bikes can be hired or you can give paragliding a go to get a bird’s eye view of a bit of Bosnia. During the winter there are ski and snowboarding classes and the hotel also boasts its own ice rink. And, if that all sounds way too active, the coffee shop and bar is a great place from which to watch others exercising.

Skakavac If you fancy wandering to a waterfall make

the hike up to Skakavac, just north of the city. The falls themselves are a pretty sight and the wander through the woods has a forest fairytale feel to it. You can drive much of the way, or walk the five or so kilometres up from the last bus stop in Nahoreva village, or go as far as the taxi driver will take you once the road turns to dirt and tramp the rest of the way. The turn-off to the falls is clearly marked and the path well-trodden. If you want refreshment it’s recommended you drop into Dragan’s. This rustic restaurant is located on the right hand side of the road just before the timber archway. It’s very much a ‘what’s going is what you get’ place and since what’s going is basic but delicious local food and a terrific atmosphere a brief stop can easily turn into an overnight stay (simple accommodation - as in Dragan will throw you a blanket and pillow and direct you towards the loft - is available), or mark the first of many return visits.

Autumn 2009

Where to stay Accommodation in Sarajevo is readily available for the traveling weary businessman or backpacker. You will have no problem finding a luxurious room in a hotel or a cheap hostel or B&B with the following selection.

Hecco De Luxe B-4, Ferhadija 2, tel. (+387) 33

P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

55 99 95, fax (+387) 33 55 89 95, heccodeluxe@ gmail.com, www.heccodeluxe.com. This restaurant and series of small hotel apartments has just been built on the very top of the JAT tower: a rickety, old apartment block sitting at the junction of Ferhadija and Marshal Tito streets, overlooking the Eternal Flame memorial to the dead partisans of World War Two. Q (singles €100, doubles €130). PTYJHAULGBKXW

O Casino

H Conference facilities

Holiday Inn B-1, B-2, Zmaja od Bosne 4, tel. (+387)

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

F Fitness centre

L Guarded parking

R Internet

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

J Old town location

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

6 Animal friendly

W Wi-Fi

Symbol key

Upmarket Central B-4, Ćumurija 8, tel. (+387) 33 56 18 00,

info@hotelcentral.ba, westwood.ba. More of a luxury fitness centre and spa than a hotel - a member of staff once quantified it for us as an 85/15 split in favour of the former - this West Wood-managed venture occupies a beautifullyrestored old building in the city centre. The gym is packed with state-of-the-art equipment, while the colonnaded pool is reminiscent of Justinian’s Cistern. The 15 rooms upstairs are expectedly lavish, although strangely enough for such an upmarket location some only have small skylights rather than actual windows. Q 15 rooms (single KM200, doubles KM240, suite KM300). PJAFKDCW

City Boutique B - 4, Mula Mustafe Bašeskije 2,

33 28 80 00, fax (+387) 33 66 38 62, reservation@ holiday- inn.ba, w w w.holiday- inn.com/sarajevo. Oh dear. The iconic wartime days of Sarajevo’s famous Holiday Inn, bullet-riddled and holding out to the last, filled with war-correspondents and gritty hotel staff existing on the edge, are sadly long gone. Apart from nice mushrooms at breakfast, some charming staff and faded memories, this overpriced, uncomfortable and architecturally hideous hotel has few redeeming features anymore. Q 220 rooms (singles €100, doubles €150). PTYJHA6UIFLGBKXW

Radon Plaza Džemala Bijedica 185, tel. (+387) 33 75

29 00/(+387) 33 75 29 06, fax (+387) 33 75 29 01, booking@radonplazahotel.ba, www.radonplazahotel. ba. This glistening five-star tower owned by the Avaz business group is Sarajevo’s first full-functional five-star hotel. It’s set way out of the centre of town, but if you are there for business it’s perfect. There are 112 rooms, conference centres, a spa, a swimming-pool, internet connection everywhere, a revolving restaurant, supremely comfortable rooms and 24-hour room-service - in short, everything one would expect. And it’s not that much more expensive than more prosaic city-centre joints. Q 122 rooms (singles €105, doubles €170, 3 suites €245). PTHAUFLEGBKDXCW

tel. (+387) 33 566 850, info@cityhotel.ba, www. cityhotel.ba. Only opened in August, this is the newest addition to Sarajevo’s upmarket accommodation field. Situated halfway between Baščaršija and the BBI shopping complex, virtuallyevery place of interest in the city centre is only a few minutes walk away. The modern façade stands in stark contrast to neighbouring buildings, and while the interior design is not quite modern minimalist you do get the impression that you’ve jumped at least a few years into the future. If you’re staying for any length of time definitely consider upgrading to the deluxe rooms or smaller apartments - they offer significantly more space and the price difference is negligible. Q 19 rooms (singles €90-100, doubles €100-110, apartments €130-150). PJARLW

Europe B-4, Vladislava Skarića 5, tel. (+387) 33

580 400/(+387) 33 580 500, fax (+387) 33 580 580, reception@hoteleurope.ba, www.hoteleurope. ba. Located in the heart of Old Sarajevo, the hotel was first established back in 1882 and reopened earlier this year after an extensive make-over. A modern wing has been cleaved onto the eastern side of the original AustroHungarian structure giving the façade a somewhat bipolar appearance, but the interior is about as luxurious as you’re likely to find anywhere in the city. The spacious rooms are exceedingly comfortable and many offer spectacular views of the surrounding Baščaršija area. Add to all this the 30% discount they’re offering until the end of the year and the place is downright cheap. Q 160 rooms (singles €92-143, doubles €123-179, apartments €230) All rooms 30% off until the end of 2009.. PJHARFLBKCW

Sarajevo In Your Pocket

Ornate Bosnian woodwork

sarajevo.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay Sarajevo Džemala Bijedica 169 A, tel. (+387) 33 777

900, fax (+387) 33 473 043, info@sarajevohotel.ba, sarajevohotel.ba. Aside from an almost surreal petrol station marring the otherwise gorgeous exterior, this place is one of the most aesthetically perfect hotels we’ve ever seen unfortunately it has prices to match. Situated in new Sarajevo near the national television station and countless shiny new office buildings, it unabashedly caters to an upmarket business clientele. The rooms are absolutely stunning as are the views from the enormous rooftop terrace and restaurant. Curiously, non-guests can use the small fitness centre and massage services for fairly reasonable fees. Q 66 rooms (singles €81-131, doubles €91-151, apartments €253). PHARUIFLBKDCW

Mid-range Astra Garni B-4, Kunduržiluk 2, tel. (+387) 33 47

51 00/(+387) 33 47 52 00, fax (+387) 33 47 63 00, h.astra.garni@bih.net.ba, www.astra-garni.com. ba. This comfortable, modern hotel is set bang in the heart of Bascarsija, boasting a gym, sauna, conference facilities and nicely-designed rooms, some set on two levels. Probably the most conveniently-set hotel in town, the downside is that Sarajevo’s heaving street culture on the pedestrian lanes of Baščaršija can make it noisy during summer months. But in winter it is both romantic and efficient for business or pleasure. Q 53 rooms and 14 suites (singles €90, doubles €120, suites €130). PTYJHA6UFLGKDXW

Astra Hotel B-4, Zelenih Beretki 9, tel. (+387) 33

25 21 00/(+387) 33 25 20 00, fax (+387) 33 20 99 39, h.astra@bih.net.ba, www.hotel-astra.com.ba. Comfortable, affordable, central, with friendly staff and great breakfasts. Rooms on the second floor are best: king-sized

beds swirled with silk drapes, luxurious fitted bathrooms and cable television. Downstairs in the breakfast room there’s a filling selection of pastries first thing in the morning. This hotel is a stone’s throw from the Gavrilo Princip Bridge, where Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated in 1914. Q 17 rooms (singles €80, doubles €100, apartment €120). PTYJA6UGKX

Bosnia B-3, Kulovića 9, tel. (+387) 33 47 12 51,

fax (+387) 33 44 45 72, bosniahotel@bih.net.ba, www.bosniahotels.com. A relic of the old Yugoslav days, particularly in terms of the décor, but the staff are friendly and attentive, and it is handy for getting almost anywhere in Sarajevo on foot. Q 60 rooms (singles €85, doubles €100). PTYJHAUILGBKXW

Dardanija B-3, Radićeva 15, tel. (+387) 33 213 613,

fax (+387) 33 213 616, dardanija@dardanija.co.ba, www.dardanija.co.ba. May very well have been one of the top hotels in town during its day, but those days have long since passed - picture shiny bedspreads, green floors and lots of gold-trimmed furniture. Your choice of rooms is also between front-facing ones with street noise or back ones with depressing views of an alley. If that description is not completely off-putting then the place might not be that bad of an option, as the rooms are comfortable enough and most are fairly large. Q (singles €62, doubles €104). PJAW

Europa Garni B-4, Vladislava Skarica 3, tel. (+387) 33

23 28 55, europa-garni@smartnet.ba. Sitting a hundred metres away from the Astra Garni is the Europa Garni: rooms, level of service, prices and comfort are all much the same, with the added benefit that the Garni offers Sarajevo’s only Moroccan restaurant set across three different floors. Intriguing. Q 28 rooms (singles €90, doubles €125). PTJHAILGKXW

Out for a stroll in Baščaršija

Sarajevo In Your Pocket

sarajevo.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay Gaj B-3, Skenderija 14, tel. (+387) 33 55 48 05/(+387)

33 55 48 06, fax (+387) 33 44 52 00, info@hotel-gaj. co.ba, www.hotel-gaj.com.ba. Small, modest 12-room hotel with a nice garden set ten minutes walk from the centre. Basic but comfortable. Q 12 rooms (singles €60, doubles €90). PTYJA6UILEGBKXW

Grand D-1, Muhameda ef. Pandže 7, tel. (+387)

33 56 31 00, fax (+387) 33 56 32 00, hotelgrand@ hotelgrand.com, www.hotelgrand.com. A less than inspirational-looking place on the hill behind the train station, at first glance it appears a bit behind the times - much like the photo of a Concorde hanging in the lobby. But we give it credit: the service and accommodation are first rate, and they somehow managed to secure the domain name hotelgrand.com, which has to count for something. Also, if you’re staying over the weekend there’s a 99% chance of seeing a wedding party downstairs - crashing it is entirely up to you and we take no responsibility for the consequences. Q 132 rooms (singles €61-76, doubles €95-116, suites €125). PJHAULKW

Safir Jagodića 3, tel. (+387) 33 47 50 40, info@

hotelsafir.ba, www.hotelsafir.ba. Down a quiet alley only a few minutes’ walk from Baščaršija, Safir is great option for budget-conscious business travellers in town for longer stays. In a modern building with touches of traditional Bosnian architecture, each their eight rooms is ‘apartment type’, which essentially means a standard double with the addition of a good-sized kitchenette. Although the brochure and website mention conference facilities, the room in question is quite small and would perhaps be suitable for meetings at best. Q 8 rooms (singles €50, doubles €72).

Unica B-3, Hamdije Kresevljakovica 42, tel. (+387)

33 55 52 25/(+387) 33 55 53 35, fax (+387) 33 55 52 26, hotelunica@hotmail.com, www.hotelunica.ba. At last. Just what Sarajevo needed. Eight double rooms and eight single rooms in a well-designed, tasteful hotel bang in the middle of Sarajevo, with multilingual staff and a nice cocktail bar thrown in. The rooms are comfortable with wi-fi connections, flat-screen TVs and great beds. It’s about to become the most popular hotel in town. Q 16 rooms (singles €75, doubles €100). PTJHALGKXW

Vila Wien B-4, Vladislava Skarica 3, tel. (+387) 33

23 28 55, fax (+387) 33 23 28 60, europa-garni@ smartnet.ba, www.europa-garni.ba. This is a small and cosy separate wing of the Europa Garni, with six nice but small and newly-renovated rooms in the heart of the old Town. Q 6 rooms (singles €70, doubles €80). PTJALXW

Villa Orient B-4, Oprkanj 6, tel. (+387) 33 23 27 02, fax (+387) 33 44 10 44, orient@bih.net.ba, www. hotel-villa-orient.com. The downside is that for what it costs - about €100 per night - the Vila Orient offers rather small rooms which are slightly featureless. The upside is that it is entirely central, right in the middle of Baščaršija, without being too noisy. Q 19 rooms (singles €75, doubles €100). PJHAFLBKXW

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October - November 2009

Where to stay Budget Halvat C-4, Kasima Efendije Dobrače 5, tel. (+387) 33 237 714/(+387) 61 130 093, fax (+387) 33 237 715, halvat@bih.net.ba, halvat.com.ba. We can’t say enough good things about this small family-run B&B just around the corner from Baščaršija. Mumo and Valida, the husband and wife team that runs the place, have been in the business for some 15 years and clearly pride themselves on paying attention to the smallest of details: we don’t want to ruin any future surprises but let’s just say that guests’ birthdays don’t go unnoticed. The house itself is incredibly cosy, with seven rooms and a large lounge in the basement where breakfast is served. Reservations are a must as their reputation keeps the place busy year round. Q 6 rooms (singles €46, doubles €68, triple €86). Prices are significantly lower from December to March. PJARB

Hecco C-4, Medrese 1, tel. (+387) 33 27 37 30/(+387)

33 27 37 31, fax (+387) 33 27 37 31, hotel.hecco@ gmail.com, www.hotel-hecco.net. Set 500 metres above the heart of Baščaršija, Sarajevo’s old Ottoman quarter, the Hecco is neither as well-located nor opulent as its city-centre cousins, but for fifty euros per night for a double, with a bright, spacious and comfortable room with cable TV, wireless internet, satisfactory breakfast and a lovely espresso first thing, who’s complaining. It’s a bit of a hike back after a night out, but the view compensates. Q 27 rooms (singles €40, doubles €57, triples €67). PTYJHARLGKXW

Hollywood Dr Pintola 23, Ilidža, tel. (+387) 33 77 31

00, fax (+387) 33 77 31 45, info@hotel-hollywood. ba, www.hotel-hollywood.ba. A massive hotel and conference centre located in the near the airport in Ilidža, Hollywood is extremely popular with budget-minded business travellers, NGO workers, sports teams and the like - and for good reason. Aside from ample conference facilities, multiple restaurants and comfortable modern rooms, the complex boasts a nearly Olympic-size swimming pool, full sports hall, 4-lane bowling alley, wellness centre and is right next door to the one of the best water parks in the country. A great choice for those who have their own transport or don’t mind taking a taxi to the centre and back. Q 200 rooms (singles KM 75-95, doubles KM 120-140, triples KM 160-180, apartments KM 190). PTHARFLEBKDCW

Hotel Boutique 36 C - 4, Safet bega Basagica

36, tel. (+387) 33 239 490, fax (+387) 33 233 309, boutique36@gmail.com, http://www.hb36. ba/. Bou ti qu e 36 on e minu te from Baščaršija. I n th e most famous and th e most at tracti ve par t o f Sarajevo Old Town, this is a newly open hotel, offering high quality service, accommodation and relaxation. Q (€52 per person).

Identiko Guest House Halaci 3, tel./fax (+387) 33

23 33 10, identiko@bih.net.ba. Small simple rooms, super-cheap, this makes a handy base from which to explore the centre of Sarajevo. Breakfast not included. Q 8 rooms (singles €24, doubles €75).

Italija Pofalicka 7, tel. (+387) 33 65 04 50/(+387) 55

65 04 85, fax (+387) 33 66 19 38, www.hotelitalia. ba. A straightforward hotel which has an extensive range of sporting extras, including an indoor swimming-pool and a small gym, which partly make up for the distance from the city-centre. Q 36 rooms (singles €45, doubles €75). TAIFLKXC

Sarajevo In Your Pocket

Konak B-4, Mula Mustafe Bašeskije 48, tel. (+387) 33 47 69 00/(+387) 61 53 14 94, info@hotel-konak. com, www.hotel-konak.com. This charming little hotel was re-opened earlier this year by the newest generation of the Resić family to get into the hotel business. While the street outside might be a little on the scruffy side, the hotel itself has been beautifully furnished in a traditional style with solid wood everything, modern amenities and a bright airy breakfast room downstairs. The service is excellent and the rates have been significantly reduced due to the current economic climate, making it a great value for the foreseeable future. Definitely recommended. Q 9 rooms (singles €50, doubles €70, apartment €150). PJALBW

Kovači B-4, C-4, Kovači 12, tel. (+387) 33 57 37 00,

fax (+387) 33 57 37 01, info@hotelkovaci.com, www. hotelkovaci.com. Yet another budget/mid-range option in the area immediately north of Baščaršija, Kovači looks quite stylish from the outside but the interior is a little too Spartan for our tastes. If you’re looking to splash out a bit in this part of town, they do offer a large top floor apartment with a jacuzzi bath. Q 8 rooms (singles €50, doubles €70, triple €80, suite €100). JALBW

Palas Krivajska 1, tel. (+387) 33 72 54 00, fax (+387)

33 72 54 08, info@palas.com.ba, www.palas.com.ba. Bang next-door to the railway and bus station. Simple, but cheap and convenient for getting in to town on the tram or on foot. Q 53 rooms (singles €40, doubles €60). Breakfast included. TALX

Pansion Stari Grad Bjelina Čikma 4, tel. (+387) 33 23

98 98, pansion_starigrad@hotmail.com. Located some 50m from the Sebilj in Baščaršija, this place is comfortable if not overwhelming. Some of the single rooms are only slightly larger than the beds and/or have bathrooms guaranteed to give you bruised elbows, in other words, you may want to negotiate for a double if you’re the least bit claustrophobic. The aquarium and breakfast terrace are nice additions, but the real selling point is use of the adjacent guarded car park - a rarity in the city centre - for a small additional fee. Q 10 rooms (singles €35, doubles €50, triples €65). JALBW

Yıldız C- 4, Tahčića Sokak 4, tel. (+387) 33 00

00 00/(+387) 61 13 97 36, info@hotelyildiz.ba, hotelyildiz.ba. Named after a neighbourhood in Istanbul, which is appropriate as it occupies a renovated Ottomanstyle house just north of Baščaršija, Yıldız has a bit more character than most of the nearby competition. We’d like it more if the rates were slightly less expensive (perhaps acquiring the best phone number in Sarajevo wasn’t cheap). Nevertheless it’s a good option for those who fancy the idea of staying in an old wooden house but still want WiFi and satellite television. Q 7 rooms (singles €40, doubles €50, triples €70). JAW

Hostels Lion B-4, Bravadzluk 30, tel. (+387) 33 23 61 37. On

the edge of Baščaršija. Some rooms don’t have windows and most are strangely decorated as though it were a doll’s house. No breakfast available. Q (singles €25, doubles €50). JAXW

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restaurants Bosnia, with its beautiful, favourable climate, has a fantastic selection of natural produce, in particular fruit and vegetables. The city’s three main markets in Ciglane, the city centre and Grbavica are well worth a visit, if for no other reason than to see the massive seasonal displays of cherries, apricots, nectarines, artichokes, avocados, raspberries, walnuts, celeriac, new potatoes and almost anything else you can think of. Many are just grown in kitchen gardens, all are non-GM, and a lot have never seen pesticides. The meat is excellent. However, this wide variety of raw ingredients does not always translate into good food being served in restaurants. Much of Bosnian cuisine is traditional, salty, meaty and fatty food. Tradition and societal expectation often stand in the way of culinary innovation, and too often the best one can say about Bosnian food is that it is OK. Most people eat at home, and restaurants are reserved for very special occasions: below is a selection of those places that do better than most.

Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

The wine collection at charming Noovi

E Live music

S Take away

Avlija C-3, Sumbula Avde 2, tel. (+387) 33 44 44 83,

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

O Casino

J Old Town location

6 Animal friendly

W Wi-Fi

B Outside seating

V Home delivery

Asian Hot Wok B-2; B-3, Titova 12, tel. (+387) 33 20 33 22/(+387) 61 17 17 60, info@hotwokcaffe.com. Eat mango chicken with fried noodles and sip a large freshly squeezed orange juice as you watch the cooks wok up sizzling, only mildly-improvised Thai food with inventive names like Hollywood Chicks. You’ll sit at high stools and be surrounded by a cluster of Bosnian businessmen, international diplomats and bureaucrats, or a foursome of Bosnian women on a night out. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (KM 8-22). JAXS

Kineski Restoran B-3, Ismeta Mujezinovića 14, tel.

(+387) 33 66 41 17, kineski.restoran.sarajevo@gmail. com. Opened this past summer to fill the MSG-flavoured void left by the closing of the city’s only other Chinese restaurant, this imaginatively named place (‘Chinese Restaurant’ in English) was still sorting out some of the subtle differences between Chinese and Bosnian cuisine when we visited during its first week. Aside from that small wrinkle the service is impeccable - it always helps to poach experienced professional staff from other establishments - and the selection of dishes quite varied: Coca Cola chicken anyone? The selection of wine is also impressive. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (KM10-60). ALXS

Bosnian ASDŽ B-4, Mali Čurčiluk 3, tel. (+387) 33 238 500. This

modern canteen-style place in Baščaršija is great if you want to sample a variety of Bosnian dishes without the hassle of sitting down for a proper meal in a restaurant. Just point to what looks good and specify if you want a small or large portion of it - no need to master the menu beforehand or worry about pronunciation. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. (KM 1.50-10). PJBS

sarajevo.inyourpocket.com

fax (+387) 33 44 42 60, fkarkin@bih.net.ba, www. avlija.ba. Meaning ‘courtyard’ in Bosnian, the inside of this eclectic, noisy Bosnian restaurant is like a walled garden. To start choose fried mushrooms in breadcrumbs or ustipce, small deep-fried doughballs served with kajmak, soft white cream cheese. Then follow on with fantastic pepper steaks with perfect roast potatoes, or muckalicka, spiced beef stew with peppers served in a clay pot. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (KM 4-22). TAX

Buregdžinica Bosna B-4, Bravadžiluk 9. We’ve heard this no-nonsense Burek place recommended as far away as Slovenia, and based solely on the constant queue waiting to get a plate of the piping-hot savoury pastry it’s not without good reason. Vegetarians have the option of sirnica (cheese), zeljanica (spinach and cheese) or krompiruša (potato), and there’s even an air-conditioned dining room up the dangerously steep stairs in back. When coming from the direction of the Sebilj look for the red basketball logo on your left. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. (8-12 KM per kilo). PJNBS

Dveri B-4, Prote Bacovica 12, tel. (+387) 33 53 70 20,

info@dveri.co.ba, www.dveri.co.ba. Beef goulash with plums, fabulous home-made bread, vegetable soup served with a poached egg, a garden to sit in summer, a toasty interior in which to sip rakiya in winter and hospitable Bosnian staff speaking perfect English make this small restaurant set in a pretty, flower-filled courtyard in Sarajevo’s Old Town one of the best choices to eat at for any occasion. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (KM6-18). AX

Inat Kuća B-5, Veliki Alifakovac 1, tel. (+387) 33 447

867/(+387) 61 338 177, fax (+387) 33 560 319. Dishes are limited but the location is good and the tale of how this restaurant came to be where it is, is pure Sarajevo - prevent the waiter whisking your menu away and read how the House of Spite got its name and position. Specializing in local soups and mains, the House rambles upwards with three floors of group settings, or tables for two for more intimate dining. Factor in the outdoor riverside tables and you have a pleasant setting for a traditional Bosnian experience, both culinary and cultural. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (KM 10-20). AU

Autumn 2009

Restaurants Kibe C-4, Vrbanjuša 164, tel. (+387) 33 441 936, www.

restorankibe.ba. Clinging to the side of the hill a few kilometres above Baščaršija, this family-run restaurant has been a Sarajevo institution since it opened in 1988. In a beautifully converted house with multiple dining areas, the menu contains all the Bosnian standards at prices similar to what you’ll find in less-inspired settings below, and the food is unanimously considered some of the best in the city. Definitely a must visit on any trip, just make sure to call ahead for reservations as window seats are scarce and demand understandably high. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (KM 5-17).

Lovac B-3; B-4, Petrekijina 24, tel. (+387) 33 66 41

76/(+387) 61 10 23 31, info@lovac-sarajevo.com, www. lovac-sarajevo.com. Occupying a hundred year-old villa on the hill above the Cathedral, Lovač (or the Hunter) lives up to its name with a menu full of venison, wild boar and other game meat dishes, as well as pretty much every Bosnian specialty we’ve ever heard of. Appropriately enough the large outdoor seating area has a distinct hunting lodge feel to it, while inside things are a bit statelier - though a fair amount of mounted antlers, horns and heads still adorn the walls. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (KM 8 - 36). PJALB

Park Prinčeva B-5, Iza Hrida 7, tel. (+387) 33 22 27 08,

fax (+387) 33 53 24 03, www.parkprinceva.ba. You go to sit and have a drink on the terrace at Park Prinčeva, set on the side of a mountain overlooking Sarajevo, for one reason and one reason alone: the view. Especially in summer, it offers the most amazing view all the way up the valley, and allows you to see the whole city stretched underneath you. The staff are courteous, friendly and efficient. The traditional Bosnian food is beyond bland. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (KM 8-22). TALEBX

Pod Lipom B-4, Prote Bakovica 6, tel. (+387) 33 44

07 00. On a quiet alley just around the corner from the Sebilj but away from most of the tourist traffic, Pod Lipom is a quaint traditional Bosnian restaurant with a lengthy menu and reasonable prices. There are a lot of hot and cold starters and soups to choose from so it’s great for groups who want to sample a bit of everything. If you want to get on your waiter’s good side ask him about the time Bill Clinton stopped by for some Sarajevski sahan. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (6 - 15 KM). JAB

Urban Grill B-3, Prušćakova 8, tel. (+387) 33 44 44 48, ugb@bih.net.ba, www.urbangrill.ba. The Brajlović family had been providing high quality meat to other restaurants for some 60 years before they finally decided to cut out the middle-men and open their own chain of slightly upmarket grills. So far they have two locations in Sarajevo, both of which are a cut above most of the competition in terms of quality and ambience while offering pretty much the same prices. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. (KM 5 - 15). PJBS

Željo 1 and 2 B-4, Kundurdžiluk 12, tel. (+387) 33

44 70 00. Sarajevo ‘čevapčiči’ are small, immensely tasty grilled spicy sausages, served with spiced flat bread called ‘somun.’ Traditionally accompanied by a glass of yoghourt, they are great at any time of day. Particularly good hangover food. Named after one of the city’s two main football clubs, Željo does some of the best čevačiči in Bosnia. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (KM 4-7). JBX

Indian Taj Mahal Paromlinska 48a, tel. (+387) 61 27 73

84, www.tajmahal-sarajevo.com. If you’ve had your fill of traditional Bosnian fare or are just looking for something different, Sarajevo’s only Indian restaurant is a great option.

Sarajevo In Your Pocket

It’s popular among expats and one of our personal favourites - we seem to find ourselves here at least a couple times a month. They specialise in Tandoori, but pretty much have all the standards covered as well as a large selection of Nepalese dishes. The location is a bit out of the way if you’re not familiar with the city so a taxi is probably a good idea, or you can always take advantage of their delivery service. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (KM 9-17). PALS

International 4 Sobe Gospode Safije C-3, Cekalusa 61, tel. (+387)

62 62 28 22, info@placetobe.ba, www.placetobe. ba. ‘Four Rooms of Mrs.Safije’ is the latest venture of the owners of Hacienda cocktail bar and Baghdad Café, and their interior design flair has struck again. Glamorous, dressed-up Sarajevans and foreigners flock to drink Bosnian and Croatian wines and eat fusion food on three floors of this original Austro-Hungarian house set just outside the centre. Themed on the early 1900s love-story between the Bosnian Safija and her Austrian lover, dishes that triumph on the menu include salmon fillet with hollandaise, risotto with prawns and parmesan and chicken marinaded with honey and chilli sauce QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (€2.50-12). PTILX

Dr Food B-4, Obala Kulina Bana 10, tel. (+387) 33

20 55 51. Some of the best food in town. Prawn salad with rocket, grilled tuna steaks, fantastic beef, great chips, grilled St.Pierre fish and inventive puddings are just some of the reasons why this small, cosy restaurant overlooking the River Miljacka works so well. Attentive staff, a really good wine list and affordable prices are the others. Everything, from the stylish cutlery to the loos seems to be just right. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (KM 10-28). PTJABXSW

Noovi Tina Ujevića bb, tel. (+387) 33 22 22 42. A newish wine-bar and restaurant, Noovi is situated just opposite the British Embassy on a small hill overlooking the centre of town. Run as a joint-venture between the staff of I Tri Bicchiere wineshop and Dr Food, it is a great place to amble along to on a sunny evening, have a bottle of Rioja and enjoy a platter of ham and cheese. If you feel like it there is seating indoors or out, their pasta and pizzas are well worth a try, and the wine-list is beyond extensive. Some of the best staff in town. QOpen 15:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€5-10). PJAB

Peppers A-2, Zagrebačka 4a, tel. (+387) 33 20 15

50, restoranbarpeppers@yahoo.com. Set snugly close to the Grbavica headquarters of the Office of the High Representative, or OHR, Bosnia’s foreign overseer, means that this charming, well-run restaurant has an international feel and many international clients. The service is slick and fast, and dishes such as prawn cocktail, broccoli soup and excellent pastas come served up to a background of jazz funk. Good beers too. QOpen 09:30 - 24:00. (€6-17). PJAS

Pivnica HS B-4, Franjevačka 15, tel. (+387) 33 49 11

00, www.sarajevska-pivara.ba. A favourite among tourists and well-heeled locals alike, this restaurant attached to the Sarajevska Brewery consists of one enormous hall with seating on two levels. The menu has just about anything you can think of, although house specialties seem to include many sausage and veal dishes. Aside from being on the expensive side - most mains with a side are around 20 KM - it’s also a little too nice for its own good, as the flawless décor somewhat compromises the traditional beer hall feel. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. (7-40 KM). TJAL

sarajevo.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

Pravda B-3, Radićeva 4c, tel. (+387) 33 55 82 15,

pravdasarajevo@gmail.com, www.pravda.ba. Sarajevo’s beautifully designed bar of the moment boasts comfortable sofas and high stools on which to perch and lounge, and good Croatian and Argentinian wines and snacks. Chicken Satay or tasty Dalmatian prawns with rocket are €7. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (KM 6-24). TJA6EBX

To Be or Not to Be Cizmedžluk 5, tel. (+387) 33 23

32 65. There’s not much space in this friendly den of home cooking in Baščaršija, with its two tables on the pavement, two downstairs and three upstairs. Which seems to make it all the nicer to enjoy steaks with grilled vegetables, sea-bass and good pasta as the sound of a Bosnian tin-smith tapping away down the street fills the Sarajevo night. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (KM 6-18). JABX

Vinoteka B-3, Skenderija 12, tel. (+387) 33 21 49 96,

www.vinoteka.ba. If you’re a visiting celebrity, Bosnian politician, foreign diplomat, member of the Sarajevo glitterati or just somebody who wants to have a fantastic meal with good wine in a beautifully-designed restaurant, you go to Vinoteka. Since opening in 2003 it’s been a prime contender for best restaurant in town. Set on the south side of the river on three floors, downstairs is a cosy wine-bar, while upstairs on two floors is the full restaurant experience. Choose from an extensive and varied menu: favourites such as carrot cream soup with shrimps, turkey breast with lime and honey, and Café de Paris Steak followed by tiramisu are all excellent. Over 100 wines from Bosnia and abroad make the meal sing. Unmissable. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (10-40 KM). PTJALGX

Mexican Caballero B-3; C-3, Džidžikova 3, tel. (+387) 33 21

02 66. This popular Mexican restaurant, situated up the hill from BBI near the French and Austrian embassies,

sarajevo.inyourpocket.com

serves up large portions of fairly decent Tex-Mex standards like tostadas, burritos and enchiladas, as well as many vegetarian options and some vaguely Mexican-sounding meat dishes that all come with a slight Bosnian twist. The large covered terrace built to resemble some kind of rustic Latin American beach bar is an atmospheric place to enjoy an evening Corona or tequila cocktail along with a starter or two. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (KM 7-20). TJALEBS

Vegetarian Karuzo B-3; B-4, Dženetića Čikma bb, tel. (+387) 33

44 46 47/(+387) 63 89 37 93, www.karuzorestaurant. com. Quirky doesn’t even begin to describe this place. The tiny restaurant behind Markale is the creation of Saša Obućina: owner, host, chef, waiter and DJ. Outfitted to resemble a boat and named after an Italian opera singer, Karuzo was the first vegetarian restaurant in Sarajevo, and the menu is a somewhat schizophrenic medley combining vegetarian, macrobiotic and Mediterranean dishes, along with sushi. The overall experience of eating here has always reminded us of going to your uncle’s house for dinner - only if your uncle was a great cook and vaguely resembled Steven Segal. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00; 18:00-23:00, Sat 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (KM 6 - 35). JABS

Vegehana B-2; B-3, Kemal-begova 4, tel. (+387) 61 59 21

23, catering@vegehana.com, vegehana.com. Located on a quiet residential side-street off of Alipašina, this borderline sacreligious vegetarian oasis in the middle of the carnivore’s paradise that is Sarajevo (along with the rest of Bosnia) caters to a mixed crowd of trendy students and health conscious professionals. The daily special is a great value offering six different dishes (soup, main, two sides, salad and a pastry) for KM10 - you can see the current week’s selection by clicking ‘Jelovnik’ on their website. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. (3-10 KM). JAS

Autumn 2009

CafÉs

Reconstructed music pavillion in Atmejdan Park

Music Pavillion Café B-4, Atmejdan Park. By far

Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

O Casino

J Old Town location

6 Animal friendly

W Wi-Fi

B Outside seating

V Home delivery

Caffe del O’mar B-3, Trg Sarajeva (BBI Centar), tel.

(+387) 33 56 99 99. A sprawling café that occupies a good chunk of the ground floor at the recently opened BBI shopping centre, it entices shoppers to take a load off with views of the centre’s six-floor atrium. There’s also additional seating out on the main square if you prefer some fresh air or the kids would just like to splash around in the nearby fountain. They do a variety of sandwiches and cakes, and also have some of the best shakes in town. The coffee’s not bad either. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. PTJAUB

Gradska Kafana Stari Grad B-4, Obala Kulina Bana

bb. This old school no-frills café is sandwiched between Baščaršija and the Obala along the river. Its large sprawling terrace is shaded courtesy of several ancient trees and there’s usually a mild breeze blowing up off the river, making it an ideal place for a coffee on sweltering summer days. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. J6NB

Sarajevo In Your Pocket

the best of the lot of cafés in At Mejdan Park along the southern bank of the river, it’s also one of our favourites in the entire city. Housed in and around a beautiful wooden bandstand that was originally built in 1913 by the AustroHungarians and destroyed during WWII, it was completely restored in 2004 (ironically with funding from the Austrian government) and is one of the more unique café experiences in Sarajevo. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. J6NB

Torte i to Café A-1, Grbavička 6, tel. (+387) 61 13 49 88, www.torte-i-to.ba. One of this cafe’s many selling points is that it’s the only non-smoking café we know of in Sarajevo. Aside from its fresh air, it’s also known for bringing some excellent cheesecake to town. Among their various other cakes, pastries and sweets the carrot cake is our personal favourite, and the selection of coffee is as good as anywhere else in town. The new branch on the top of the BBI shopping centre has a smoking terrace, and a great view of central Sarajevo. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. PJABS

Vatra B-4, Ferhadija 4, tel. (+387) 33 222 244, info@

vatra.ba, http://www.vatra.ba. This trendy café takes its name from Sarajevo’s Eternal Flame (Vječna Vatra), which burns only a few metres away in memory of the partisans who died during World War II. The café itself is a much less sombre affair, and we can’t remember ever seeing it not packed with a lively mix of people. The menu has just about enough cakes, ice creams and snacks to try something different each day of the year - we can’t get enough of the bite sized sandwiches - and fire-related quotes to keep you busy while you’re waiting. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.

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nightlife A night out in Sarajevo comes no better than an elongated wander through the city’s bar scene, where you will find people drinking coffee, beers, brandies, cocktails, wine, juices…or just mineral water. Sarajevo is very see-and-beseen, busy, and the city’s notoriously beautiful womenfolk dress accordingly. A handy rule-of-thumb is to assume that a waiter will find you almost as soon as you arrive in an establishment: do not order your drinks at the bar. Prices are almost the same everywhere, so think of paying about €2 for a large half-litre of beer, about €3-5 for a cocktail, and somewhere in between for wine. It’s well worth trying the local brandies, made from plums (slivovitz), grapes(rakiya), walnuts (orahovaca), cherries (visnavaca,) and apricots (kajsija). Bosnia has a healthy drinking culture, and loud, affable, friendly behaviour is the norm. Particularly since the war, this is a city that has been it, seen it and done it, so there is nothing you can do that has not been done or seen before.

Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

O Casino

J Old Town location

6 Animal friendly

W Wi-Fi

B Outside seating

V Home delivery

Bars Baghdad B-4, Bazardzani 4, tel. (+387) 33 53 72

18/(+387) 33 44 19 18, info@placetobe.ba, www. placetobe.ba. With its tasselled cushions, ornatelydecorated hanging glass lamps, blue and white tiles and conspicuously Moorish feel, this backstreet cocktail bar in Baščaršija has become very much in with Sarajevo’s twentysomething models, designers and party people. Extremely comfortable. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. JBXW

Barhana B-4, Djulagina Cikma 8, tel. (+387) 33 36

54 08/(+387) 33 44 77 27, info@barhana.ba, www. barhana.ba. Set in a cobbled street in Baščaršija, this is one of the top five bars in the whole city. The key to its success: good music, good-looking and cool customers, mainly Bosnian, easily-affordable drinks, friendly service and the best of eighties music. It suffices to say that Jasmina Mameledzija, Sarajevo’s uber-cool and glamorous original female DJ, names it as one of her favourite bars. Go along to see why. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. TJABKX

Central Café B-4, Strosmajerova 1, tel. (+387) 33 20

04 42, www.centralcafe.co.ba. If you’re young, Bosnian, female, probably beautiful and have got a few marks in the pocket of your hotpants or in your faux-designer handbag, on a Thursday, Friday or Saturday night you WILL be seen at Central Café. You’ll be drinking Nescafe, cherry-juice or possibly Bambus, which is Coca-Cola mixed with red wine. You’ll be texting your friends, dancing and catching the eye of a lot of hair-gelled, metrosexually-dressed Bosnian males. If, however, you are a visitor to Sarajevo it’s simply great fun to go along and watch the action. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00. JABX

Delikatesna Radnja B-4, Obala Kulina Bana 10,

tel. (+387) 33 20 88 55, www.delikatesnaradnja. ba. On the edge of the Miljacka, this popular café boasts good wireless internet, nice sandwiches, draft beer and a selection of teas and coffees. At weekends, or any time when it’s sunny, the outside seating area is packed with a more affluent-looking, stylish crowd, cars double parked, Sarajevo’s svelte twenty-something women drinking coffee and mingling in the sun. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:30 - 24:00. PTJABKXW

Hacienda B-4, Bazardzani 3, tel. (+387) 33 44 19

18, info@placetobe.ba, www.placetobe.ba. Sarajevo’s original cocktail bar, this lavish Mexican-themed enterprise in the centre of Baščaršija is a visual and relaxing retreat reminiscent of Seville or Guadalajara. Great cocktails such as Caipirinhas and Margaritas start at €4, as nocturnal Sarajevo descends to listen to Latin Jazz, Salsa and Cuban funk, see and be seen, dance and drink. QOpen 10:00 - 04:00. JAEBKXW

Havana B-4, Kundurdžiluk 12, tel. (+387) 33 44 70 00.

With its charming staff, high tile-topped tables with wroughtiron stools, and the floor-length glass windows open wide, this is a perfect place to watch Sarajevo pass by while you sip a beer or an espresso. There’s a bar in every town in the world that is themed on that hackneyed old cliché, Cuba, and this is it. But done better than most. Intriguing internal décor, including a fake wall that is actually a large mirror. QOpen 09:00 - 01:30. JBX

Jež Club B-4, Zelenih Beretki 14, tel. (+387) 33

650 312, info@jez.ba, www.jez.ba. Jež is a club, bar, restaurant and summer garden all in one. Come here to enjoy traditional live music ‘tamburasi’ (a band playing tamburas - a small stringed guitar) or ‘trubaci’ (a band playing trumpets) and for the ladies there are free cocktails available on Saturdays. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00.

Barka B-4, Kundurdžiluk 10, tel. (+387) 33 537 273,

www.clubbarka.ba. Walk in to Barka and you’d think the Dalmatian coast had just washed up in downtown Sarajevo. The bar is made from part of an old fishing-boat, nautical and maritime impedimenta hang from the ceilings and walls, and there’s a faint feeling of being on a permanent holiday. Efficient staff zip between the busy downstairs and the quieter snogging lounge upstairs. A garden in summer draws in the Bosnian diaspora crowd home on holiday. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00. JBX

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Rock that fiddle!

Autumn 2009

Nightlife Mash B-3, Branilaca Sarajeva 20/I, tel. (+387) 33 48 90 33/(+387) 33 205 490. Much of Sarajevo’s charm is that many of its attractions are not apparent, or even hidden. Were it not for the noise coming from its location on the first-floor terrace of a nondescript tower-block next to The National Theatre, you could easily miss this hip, stylish bar, with seats outside on a terrace. Popular with a younger crowd, it is often refurbished. Expect it to look like the interior of a ocean-liner, a spaceship or a drawing-room. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. JBX

Nostalgija Mukevita 10. Like name, like bar. Post-war

melancholia and fond memories of better days seem to hang over this tiny, somehow charming establishment set in an alley just off Ferhadija. The owner and barman’s an old Sarajevo DJ and soldier of note, the clientele a variety of semi-pickled Sarajevo regulars who float on the lesser fringes of the city’s artistic community. Fun, but not exactly lively. QOpen 10:30 - 24:00.

Opera B - 3, Branilaca Sarajeva 25, tel. (+387)

Someone came to party

Kino Bosna B-2; B-3; C-2; D-2, Alipašina 19. This

theatre-cum-bar is ground zero for Sarajevo’s alternative crowd and home to the cheapest beer in town. The bar is essentially just the lobby of an old cinema - which still shows a film every once and while and hosts the odd thrash/metal/ hardcore concert - but most nights the place is packed and the party is forced to spread outside onto the terrace, front steps and street. In recent years it’s made its way onto the tourist map, so you probably won’t be the only foreigner there. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. J6ENBS

L.A. C-2, Merhemića Trg 14, tel. (+387) 61 432

184/(+387) 61 376 009. L.A. is a new cocktail bar and organizes events and fashion shows worthy of attention. Summer time out in the big garden is crowded and lively. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. PEX

Marquee B-4, Obala Kulina Bana 6, tel. (+387) 61 132

117, info@ilijas.net, www.marquee.net.tf. Legend has it that Marquee never closes till the last customer passes out. You know you’ve had a premium night-out in Sarajevo when you end up in Marquee, with its rock memorabilia, chatty, friendly staff and the most-grafittied toilets in south-eastern Europe. Bottled beers and cocktails flow, while a mixture of leathery old rockers, gorgeous Sarajevo über-babes, mindbogglingly drunk EU peacekeepers and students happily rub shoulders. Most of them will have forgotten the following day that they went to Marquee at all. Fantastic. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. JX

Maršal Tito Bihacka 19, tel. (+387) 61 92 30 42.

This used to be a great, very individual bar themed on the late Marshal Tito, set on the edge of the river in Hrasno a couple of kilometres outside the centre of town. Now it’s moved to a new site behind the National Museum, with a huge outdoor seating area and a collection of machine-guns displayed on the walls. To find it, just look for the disused tanks and abandoned Mi-17 Helicopter gunship on the grass behind the National Museum. It’s next to them. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.

Sarajevo In Your Pocket

6 1 1 5 6 9 4 3 , f a x (+ 3 87 ) 3 3 2 2 1 9 4 0, i n f o @ caffebaropera.ba, www.caffebaropera.ba. Located opposite Mash bar, Opera’s high stools and tall tables pull in a twenty-and-thirty something crowd, with good cocktails and slick service, and occasional live music. The back room is filled with low-slung sofas, popular with younger couples and teenagers on dates, all of whom tend to live at home with their parents. They sip warm Nescafé and fruit juices and snog their way contentedly through the afternoon and early evening. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. JBX

Pravda B-3, Radićeva 4c, tel. (+387) 33 55 82 15,

pravdasarajevo@gmail.com, www.pravdasarajevo. c o m . S a ra j evo’s b ea u ti fu l l y d e si g n e d b a r o f t h e moment boasts com for table sofas and high stools on which to perch and lounge, and good Croatian and Argentinian wines and snacks. Spot Bosnian President Haris Silajdzic on sofas next to Bosnian and Serb models and designers, international diplomats and local celebrities. Great fun. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. JA6EBX

Ribica B -3, Kaptol 5, tel. (+387) 33 21 53 69.

Meaning ‘little fish,’ this is the most original bar in Sarajevo. Opera, theatre and concer t posters line the walls, customers like Džejla Glavović, Bosnia’s supermodel face of Ralph Lauren, sip coffee and beers, comfortable stools and plush banquettes with gilded mirrors bring to mind a cross between a mini-brasserie from Paris, a Viennese coffee house and a bar. Eccentric owner Slobodan plays country rock, folk and blues from a 13,000-strong song collection. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. JBX

Casinos Coloseum Club A-2, Terezije bb (KSC Skenderija),

tel. (+387) 33 250 860/(+387) 33 250 880, fax (+387) 33 250 861, coloseum@hit-bih.com.ba, www.coloseum-club.com. Enter tainment center Coloseum offers relaxed socializing, concerts, entertaining events and top enjoyment. In the Arena Restaurant you can enjoy a romantic dinner, numerous concerts by top local ar tsits, theatre plays, fashion shows and dance performances. There’s also a casio with table games and slot machines and a large conference room for business events and meetings. Q Open 00:00 - 24:00. POJHAULEBKX

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Nightlife Clubs Aqua Disco Mali Kiseljak 8, Ilidža, tel. (+387) 33

625 500. A big-stage disco with DJs and live music. It’s part of a swimming-pool complex, where some like to mix, swimming and dancing. Great for the summer time! Q PEBXC

Buddha Bar B-3, Radićeva 10, tel. (+387) 61 172 894, dandza@info.ba. Dancing and drinking club with great selection of seventies and eighties music and friendly bar-staff. QOpen 19:00 - 03:00. JX

Fis B-3, Musala bb, tel. (+387) 33 21 65 19, info@

bock.ba, www.bock.ba. Compact dancing club with black and white interior décor and a hedonistic, engagingly chaotic Bosnian clientele. Free entry. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. For more info visit: www.myspace.com/bocksarajevo. EX

The Club B-3, Maršala Tito 7, tel. (+387) 33 550

550/(+387) 33 208 288, fax (+387) 33 208 288, theclub.sarajevo@gmail.com, www.theclub.ba. Large, classy nightclub with live music, a good restaurant and fantastic service. Free entry. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Drinks from KM 3-6. PAEBKX

Pubs Celtic Pub B-4, Ferhadija 12 (pasaž), tel. (+387) 61

712 985/(+387) 61 916 565. One of the only urban hangouts in Sarajevo. In Celtic Pub you will feel the traditional Celtic spirit of the Bosnian way that guarantees a special pleasure for every guest. Try out the large selection of whiskies they have on offer, let alone the selection of beer

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and other beveragesof good quality. When there is a live band, it’s especially good fun! QOpen 09:00 - 03:00.

Cheers B-4, Muvekita 4, tel. (+387) 62 476 476/(+387)

62 622 210, denis_stojnec@hotmail.de. A great place to start a night out. The wood and brick interior and excellent service provide an environment for enjoyment with your friends and collegues. They offer a wide choice of beer, whiskeys, and alcoholic beverages, with quality live music and themed entertainment. QOpen 08:00 - 05:00. PJEK

City Pub B-4, Despiceva bb, tel. (+387) 33 209 789,

www.citypub.co.ba. Sarajevo’s most efficient waiters make everybody welcome at this jolly, popular city-centre pub, from uber-pretty university girls, tourists, off-duty European peacekeepers, resident internationals, Bosnian businessmen, models and artists. A resident DJ turns out everything from David Bowie to The Beach Boys to FatBoy Slim. A half-litre of Sarajevsko or Tuborg will set you back €1.5, cocktails €3. Boisterous. QOpen 08:00 - 01:30. YABX

Guinness Pub B-4, Ferhadija 28, tel. (+387) 61 72

22 60. At first appearance this joint looks more like an alleyway with a makeshift bar at the end of it than a proper pub, but there are actually several sprawling cellar-type rooms downstairs and the place would be pleasant enough if not for the excruciatingly bad vocal techno music they tend to blast. However, it’s impossible to recommend a place called Guinness Pub when - and we can’t stress this enough - they don’t have any Guinness! No draught, no bottles, no cans, nothing. Simply unforgiveable. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PJAEB

Autumn 2009

What to see

Downtown Sarajevo nestled amongst the rolling hills One of the beauties of Sarajevo is that it is small, making it easy to orientate yourself and start feeling at home as soon as you arrive. We make a few suggestions below about things to see and do in and around town, but you’ll quickly realise how much of the pleasure in a visit to Sarajevo is gained by simply wandering around and having a look at the wealth of interesting sights that lie around you. Walk down the boulevard called Vilsonovo Setaliste under the lime trees and watch the river Miljacka at dusk. Entrancing. The best way to get there is to take a taxi to the Vrbanja Bridge, and walk along the north side of the river all the way to Grbavica. There has been much reconstruction and repairing done in recent years and the physical scars of the war are becoming less and less visible. But the emotional ones remain for many: go to any of the three huge cemeteries in Ciglane and notice how many of the graves are dated between 1992-1995. Sit and enjoy the peace and quiet and reflect on how good ones’ lot in life actually is. The best way to get there is to walk from Marshal Tito away from the Eternal Flame in the city centre, follow the tram-lines, and turn right up Alipašina after about a kilometre. The cemeteries will be laid out on your right after a ten-minute walk. Take a taxi or tram out to Ilidža and walk down the avenue under the plane trees that leads to the hot springs. Take care not to get run over by the horses and carriages clop-

Sarajevo In Your Pocket

ping along, filled with sightseers enjoying the ride. Once you get back to the riverside, have coffee on the terrace at Café Prestige. If you’re feeling slightly more energetic, stroll along the Miljacka to Kozja Ćuprija (Goat Bridge), an Ottoman-era structure where trading caravans once crossed and local pilgrims set off for Mecca. The bridge itself is an impressive structure and the more romantically-minded visitor will get a kick out of imagining the people, pack animals and products that have traversed it over the centuries. The easy flat walk along the river makes for a pleasant morning or afternoon excursion and, if you need to revive yourself for the wander back to town, you can get a coffee or cool drink at the nearby café. Just follow the riverside path, keeping the water to your right on your way out to the bridge, and you can’t go wrong. Hire a car or take a taxi and drive up to Mount Bjelašnica outside Sarajevo. The route takes you up Mount Igman where wartime mines still lurk in the forests at the side of the road. At Bjelašnica have lunch at the Srebrna Lisica restaurant - the name means ‘Silver Fox’ - and watch the fantastic mountain scenery and the ski slopes where some of the 1984 Olympic events were held. No weekend in Sarajevo or visit to Bosnia would be complete without taking a 45-minute drive to the beautiful mountain forests and countryside of Romanija, which lies outside the town of Sokolac north-east of Sarajevo. Don’t forget to visit Sokolac itself: a visit to Café Victoria is a must. A hidden treat.

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What to see Galleries National Gallery of BiH B-4, Zelenih Beretki 8,

tel. (+387) 33 26 65 50. Located near the Orthodox Cathedral, the nation’s national gallery provides a fine introduction to the eclectic work of Bosnia’s artists, both contemporary and those representing the country’s rich artistic traditions from the past. Photography, sculpture, paintings and installations are all represented in a collection that has been curated around color themes and schemes. Entry to the gallery is free but some coins or a note dropped into the collection boxes dotted throughout will help the gallery continue to operate, and also acquire and exhibit the artworks of a country well-known for its artists. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Tue-Sat 12:00-20:00, closed Sun & Mon

Museums Brusa Bezistan B-4, Baščaršija, tel. (+387) 33 239 590, www.muzejsarajeva.ba. This Ottomanera covered market with its six large domes is one of Baščaršija’s most recognisable buildings. Designed by Rustem Pasha, Grand Vizier to Suleiman the Great, in 1551 the structure long served as the city’s centre of trade and commerce. It was heavily damaged during the siege, but has since been restored and today it’s part of the Museum of Sarajevo with a permanent exhibition spanning all the way from antiquity through to the end of the Austro-Hungarian empire. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

National Museum B-1; B-2, Zmaja od Bosne 3, tel.

(+387) 33 66 80 26/(+387) 33 66 80 27, fax (+387) 33 26 27 10, z.muzej@zemaljskimuzej.ba, www. zemaljskimuzej.ba. Located next to the Historical Museum and old-fashioned in the nicest possible way, the National Museum covers a lot of ground in the three buildings open to the public. Permanent exhibitions examine the life and history of Bosnia’s inhabitants - animal, vegetable and mineral - under the Departments of Archaeology, Ethnology and Natural History. The oldest cultural institution in BiH, the museum has its fair share of dioramas and insects in cases but these seem to add to its charm. And, temporary exhibitions such as the one on hand-made Bosnian women’s shirts that was showing at the time of writing demonstrate that the museum is also able to mount contemporary, atmospheric and well thought out exhibitions that would not be out of place in any of the world’s leading institutions. When you add in treasures such as some beautiful Roman mosaics and the world famous 14th century Sarajevo Haggadah you have a museum well worth a visit and where your small entry fee (5 KM) will help to keep it operating. If the stuffed bears and skewered bugs start to get to you, escape out into the Botanical Gardens where the hundreds of trees and other plants from around the globe provide a living, breathing lung in the centre of the complex. Q Tue-Fri 10:00-15:00, Sun 10:00-14:00, closed Mon & Sat Admission: 5 KM.

Around Sarajevo

Despić House (Despića Kuća) B-4, Despićeva

2, tel. (+387) 33 475 740, www.muzejsarajeva.ba. Originally built during the 17th century, the house belonged to a wealthy Orthodox family of traders and art patrons who are credited with organising Sarajevo’s first theatre performances. Nowadays the quaint pink and white building along Obala Kulina Bana is part of the Museum of Sarajevo and serves as a well-preserved cultural museum whose friendly staff seem more than happy to give impromptu history lesson or even tours. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Historical Museum of BiH B-1; B-2, Zmaja od

Bosne 5, tel. (+387) 33 21 04 18, histmuz@bih.net. ba. It is horribly ironic but also authentic that a museum such as this, badly damaged during the siege, should now house the permanent exhibtion ‘Surrounded Sarajevo’ which looks at the impact of the nearly four years of war on the city’s citizens.Downstairs is an exhibition on the history of Bosnia and Herzegovina from the earliest recorded mentions through to the Communist era but it is the upstairs that is most likely to attract and repel, move and educate the visitor to Sarajevo. Here, in a non-partisan or judgemental fashion, the story of the siege is told through photographs and artefacts, from hand-made heating, cooking and fighting implements to aid items that came in from abroad. Most harrowing perhaps are the images of and by children, trying to live a normal childhood in the most abnormal of conditions - few visitors could fail to be moved by the bloodstained school satchels and workbooks that are the legacy of a shell-strike on a lesson in progress. Like many cultural institutions in BiH the museum struggles for funds so the modest 4 KM entry fee you pay will do a little to help and in return provide an experience you are not likely to forget. Permanent Exhibits: ‘Sarajevo under Siege, B&H Through Centuries’. Q Tue-Fri 09:00-16:00, Sat-Sun 09:00-13:00, closed Mon 4 KM.

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Lukomir The inhabitants of Lukomir, a stone built

village on the slopes of Bjelasnica mountain, live the high life - located at nearly 1500 metres the town is the highest inhabited settlement in Bosnia. Cut off for much of the winter, Lukomir boasts a newly built lodge for those wanting to spend a few days exploring nearby sights such as the 800-metre deep Rakitnica Canyon and the Studeno Polje Valley. But it is age that makes Lukomir of most interest, for here you can get a glimpse into life as it was largely lived hundreds of years ago. Situated about 90 minutes drive away from Sarajevo, Lukomir can be reached by car, organised tour or bus.

Visoko Pyramids A worldwide jury of archaeologists is still out when it comes to the question of whether these large mounds of mystery in the countryside some 30km north of Sarajevo were made by the hands of man or constructed by mother nature - although nature is currently dominating the debate. Either way, the Visoko pyramids make for an interesting day trip. Visoko means ‘high place’ and visitors can enjoy the alpine scenery of the region while pondering the pyramid puzzle.

Autumn 2009

What to see Sights Avaz Tower B-1; B-2; C-2, Tesanjska 24b. It’s a case

of ‘I can see my hotel from up here’ when you are standing on the observation deck of the Avaz Twist Tower. Sarajevo is quite a sight when viewed from 172 metres up the ‘twister’ as this column of smoky blue glass is known. Situated near the train station in Marin Dvor, and that’s enough directions as it’s hard to miss, the lookout floor, with both indoor and outdoor areas, provides stunning views of the city below and the mountains fading off in the distance. One floor down is a cafe-bar where you can drink in a hot or cold beverage with the view. Open every day from 8:00 until 23:00 the tower offers a unique twist on seeing Sarajevo and it only costs a mark to take the fast trip to the top.

Sarajevo Museum 1878-1918 B-4, Zelenih Beretki

1, tel. (+387) 33 533 288, info@muzejsarajeva.ba, www.muzejsarajeva.ba. Located on the spot where Gavrilo Princip assassinated Archduke Franz Ferdinand - the heir the Austro-Hungarian throne and namesake of at least one modestly successful Scottish rock band - which of course led to a declaration of war on Serbia and the beginning of World War I. Opened in 2007 after extensive renovations, the well-designed, visitor-friendly museum details the years of Austro-Hungarian rule in Sarajevo and the effects it had on the city, from political and administrative changes to art and architecture, and everything in between. Q Open Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00, Sat 10:00-15:00, Closed Sun. From 15 Oct - 14 Apr closes at 16:00 on weekdays.

Tunnel Museum Tuneli 1, Ilidža, tel. (+387) 33 62

85 91. It might be small, but it’s definitely sincere - few museums move visitors to tears but the Tunnel Museum packs a powerful punch. Dug during the war, the tunnel linked the besieged city to the free zone beyond the airport, providing a life and supply line through which passed the aged and the injured, food and fuel, soldiers and cigarettes. Today, only about 20 metres of the original 700 metre length is accessible but even so crouching your way through the dim, dank passage gives a tiny taste of how a full-on crossing may have felt. The museum proper is inside one of the two houses which provided the entry/exit points. In addition to wartime memorabilia, visitors can view video footage of the siege and the tunnel’s construction and operation. Usually the video plays to a pin-drop silence interrupted only by intakes of breath as visitors watch shells shoot across the Sarajevo sky and slam into apartment blocks, the National Library ablaze, and soldiers and civilians alike making their way through this dirt and timber lifesaver. Moving, memorable, not to be missed.

Baščaršija B-5; B-4, . Get used to pronouncing the name Baščaršija (Bosh-CHAR-shee-ya) as this mouthful of letters is not only the heart and soul of Sarajevo and a striking reminder of its Ottoman past, but also home to - or at least the point of reference for - a majority of the city’s hotels, restaurants, sights and nightspots. While the area was the centre of trade and commerce during the Ottoman’s lengthy rule (the name itself means central market in English), nowadays its rebuilt lanes are packed with a mix of locals, independent travellers and tour groups virtually around the clock: eating, shopping, drinking or just soaking up the atmosphere during an evening stroll. Catholic Cathedral (Katedrala Srca Isusova)

B-4, Ferhadija bb. The Cathedral of Jesus’ Heart is the largest church in the country, and an impressive fixture of Sarajevo’s skyline. Well restored after being heavily damaged in the war, it was built in 1889 by Josip Vancas, the same architect who designed the post office. Outside, the steps provide a popular meeting and resting place. Inside, with the pastel blue and cream walls and some beautiful stained glass, busy Ferhadija seems a hundred miles and a hundred years away. The sense of peace so often found in places of worship permeates the cathedral so if you enter make sure your cell phone is firmly switched to ‘off’.

Eternal Flame B-3, Maršala Tita. At the junction of Ferhadija and Marsala Titova streets, the Eternal Flame and cupola behind it commemorates the partisans who fought in WWII. It’s nice, and in a focal part of town, but it needs a brush-and-scrub, a bit of doing-up and a couple of smartly-uniformed police officers on guard duty to give tough and short shrift to the tedious Roma children that beg nearby.

Parks Vrelo Bosne Ilidža. A lush green oasis at the source of

the River Bosne, the park may only be 12km southwest of the city centre in the suburb of Ilidža, but it’s a world away from the hustle and bustle of Sarajevo. Even without the urban contrast it’s quite an idyllic place with swans, waterfalls, Austro-Hungarian palaces and horse-drawn carriages all competing for attention, and if you’re there on a Saturday you’re more likely than not to see at least one wedding party. It’s easily combined with a trip to the Tunnel Museum, and there are several outdoor cafés selling drinks and lights snacks.

Sarajevo In Your Pocket

Catholic Cathedral

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What to see monuments and their own safety. Also on the site are a chapel, a fountain and several monuments dedicated to the victims of fascism. Though it can be walked to and one can get relatively close by public transport, a taxi might be the easiest way for visitors who don’t fancy the steep uphill climb.

Jewish Museum B-4, Mula Mustafe Bašeskije bb, tel. (+387) 33 21 55 32/(+387) 33 53 56 88, fax (+387) 33 47 57 49, kontakt@muzejsarajeva.ba, www.muzejsarajeva.ba. The bare stone walls and timber floors of this museum, located in a Sarajevo synagogue built in 1581, provide an aesthetically pleasing space for a small but well designed and laid out museum dedicated to the city’s long Jewish history. Along with religious artifacts the museum displays personal and professional objects associated with notable local writers, artists, composers and humanitarian workers. On the upper floor the displays turn their attention to one of the darkest periods in human history. The 12000 Jewish Bosnian victims of the Holocaust are commemorated in a large book bearing their names while photographs, documents and items such as concentration camp clothing provide the ‘faces’ behind these names and a testament to their suffering and the Jewish community’s ultimate survival. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat. Latin Bridge B- 4, Obala Kulina Bana. The name

Ghazi Husrev-beg

Ghazi Husrev-beg B-4, Veliki Saraći, tel. (+387)

33 53 43 75, vakuf-gazi@lsinter.net, www.vakufgazi.ba. The Gazi Husrev-Beg Mosque was built by the famous Ottoman architect Mirnar Sinan and is considered to be one of the most important Islamic buildings in Bosnia. Gazi Husrev-beg had it constructed by the Persian architect in an early Istanbul style in 1531. The 45m-high minaret towers over the 26m-high dome and the surrounding area. The grounds include an abdest hana, or washing room, a wooden sadrvan (fountain), a mekteb, or primary school, and a muvekithana, or prayer caller’s home. To the left are two elaborate 16th century buildings. The large red house in the enclosed garden behind the Careva mosque was the official residence of the Ottoman rulers of Bosnia, and is also the place where the heavily wounded Archduke Franz Ferdinand and his wife were brought, and died, after they had been shot by Gavrilo Princip in 1914.

Latinska Ćuprija may not mean much to the casual visitor to Sarajevo but mention ‘Franz Ferdinand’ and ‘World War I’ to anyone who did modern history in high school and the penny will drop. Dating from 1798 the structure is a fine example of Ottoman bridge design in itself, but that’s not why it is world-famous. Latinska Ćuprija is best-known as the place where the heir to the Austrian throne, Archduke Franz Ferdinand, and his pregnant wife were assassinated on 28 June 1914 by a Bosnian Serb nationalist, Gavrilo Princip. Beyond a plaque at the site and a small museum nearby little fuss is made of its notoriety but standing here you are at the place where Princip fired his pistol and where the rest, as they say, is history.

Jewish Cemetary A-4. Located on the front-line during

the war this historic cemetery was severely damaged during that time and now faces an ever-present threat from landslides due to its steep hillside location. Ongoing rescue and restoration work has seen some of the 3800+ tombstones repaired but much remains to be done and about 95% of the stones are still damaged. On the site, located in the Kovačići-Debelo Brdo area and not far above the transit road, visitors can wander through one of the largest Jewish cemeteries in Europe. Containing graves from the 16th century onwards, the cemetery is an integral part of Jewish history in the region and an atmospheric and interesting place for the casual visitor though those wandering through should be aware that the site is in poor condition and be careful of both the gravestones and

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The pseudo-Moorish Vijećnica

Autumn 2009

What to see Morica Han B-4, Saraci 77. Morica Han dates from

1551 and is the best preserved inn in Sarajevo. Its beautiful cobbled courtyard is surrounded by old stables and store houses and lodging rooms upstairs. Now home to a restaurant and a youth organisation. There is also a carpet shop with stacks of rugs where stables used to be. You‘re free to stroll around, have a coffee or something to eat, or buy a beautiful carpet.

National Library B-4, Mustaj-pasin mejdan, tel.

(+387) 33 275 301, fax (+387) 33 218 431, nubbih@ nub.ba, www.nub.ba. The National Library, once the town hall and now called Vijecnica, was constructed by Alexander Wittek in 1896. On 25 August 1992 a shell fired from the lines of the Serbian forces besieging Sarajevo wiped out a large part of the Bosnian literary heritage that was kept in the building - over two million books and documents went up in flames. As the plaque outside cautions, ‘Do not forget, remember and warn!’ Restoration work is still ongoing and Vijecnica is almost entirely boarded-up, although a stroll around the outside of this battered but still beautiful building is well worth the walk and art exhibitions are held from time to time in the shattered interior.

Orthodox Cathedral B-4, Zelenih Beretki bb. Inside the large, wonderfully cool and calming interior of the Church of the Most Holy Mother of God, which dates from 1868, are large iconostases holding icons made in Russia, installed here by Russian masons sent by Tsar Alexander II. As a proof of religious tolerance, Sultan Abdul Aziz, and the Prince of Serbia donated 500 gold ducats towards the construction of the building. Serb forces shot up their own church during the war and the Greek government is now involved in helping restore the damage. Once you feel that you’ve soaked up enough of the spiritual you can wander outside this imposing multi-domed, pale mustard-colored building and watch the men playing chess on the giant board just outside on the square.

Get ready to haggle

Orthodox Church B-4, Mula Mustafe Bašeskije

59. Sitting between the mosques is the ancient Serbian Orthodox church of St. Michael the Archangel, which dates from medieval times: the foundations and the unusual arcade structures are even early Christian, from the 5th and 6th century. A tad unprepossessing outside, the interior is beautiful with gilded icons and a balcony lit by candles and low light, and the scent of incense in the air. Inside glass cases are a few anatomical relics of saints such as bones. The current structure that dates from 1740 was ironically badly damaged by Serb shells during the siege.

Sebilj B-4, . If you are already wondering how soon you can

make a return visit to Sarajevo take a drink from the public fountain in Sebilj square and, according to local legend, you won’t stay away for long. Built in 1891 from a design by Czech architect Alexander Wittek, the stone and timber Moorish-style fountain is the centerpiece of the main square in the old town. You can stroll between the restaurants and souvenir shops and watch the pigeons that give the square its better-known name descend on anyone kindly or foolhardy enough to pay a mark for a cup of corn - literally birdfeed for bird food. And if you want a cup of real Bosnian coffee, here is the place to get both it and a ringside seat for watching Sarajevo stroll by.

Svrzo’s House C-4, Glodina 8, tel. (+387) 33 53 52

Orthodox Cathedral

Sarajevo In Your Pocket

64. Svrzo’s House reflects the lifestyle of a wealthy Muslim family lifestyle during the time of the Ottoman Empire. Visitors can inspect the separate living quarters of the men, women and servants and note the spacious comfort of the rooms used for receiving and entertaining guests. The house is in an extremely well-preserved condition, especially considering that it is constructed completely from wood, a building material not commonly used in the region in relatively modern times. A quiet courtyard would have provided the occupants with a pleasant and private outdoor sitting area, as it now does for the visitor, but it is the interior that provides the most interest. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

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getting around Public transport Gras Public Transport Operator Ćumurija 4, tel.

(+387) 33 20 38 19/(+387) 33 29 33 33, fax (+387) 33 45 21 86, gras@gras.co.ba, www.gras.co.ba. The main bus, tram and troley city operator is the company GRAS . You can buy city bus tickets at almost any news stand in the Sarajevo. The first ride is at 05:00 and the last at 01:00 a.m. Detail schedule is available in their office or on their web page. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. The ticket price is KM 1.60 from kiosks or KM 2 on the bus or trams. Daily tickets cost KM 5.40, weekly KM 12 and monthly KM 54.

Bus travel Both of Sarajevo’s bus stations are busy places, especially the main one near the train station which serves the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina and most international destinations. If you arrive here you can get a tram (number 1) or bus into the centre or grab a cab for around 5-6KM. There is also an ATM here and a few cafes and bars nearby if the journey has been long, gruelling or both. If you are coming from or heading to a destination in the Republika Srpska, Serbia proper or Montenegro you will arrive at or depart from Lukavica (aka Istochno Sarajevo) bus station in east Sarajevo. This station is on the fringes of the city and you can either get a taxi into town (about 25KM) or a bus from the local terminal which is about a 200 metre walk from the station. Cash can be obtained from the machine at the nearby TOM shopping centre. Signage at this bus station is predominately in Cyrillic script. If you are getting a taxi to the bus station make sure your driver knows which one you want - you can do this by explaining your destination to him.

Main Bus Station Put života 8, tel. (+387) 33 213

100/(+387) 33 213 010, fax (+387) 33 445 442, ctsbus@pksa.com.ba, www.centrotrans.com. The main bus operator is Centrotrans at the bus station.

Train travel Bosnia’s rail infrastructure was badly damaged during the war and has yet to return to pre-war levels of operation. Most international visitors arriving by train will be coming from Zagreb or Budapest on the daily trains which arrive at 18:30 and 06:25 respectively. There is also a train to and from Ploče on the southern coast of Croatia which is worth looking into as the journey, via Mostar, is very scenic. Sarajevo’s train station is right near the bus station and you can get into the heart of town via a bus, tram or 5 - 6KM taxi ride. There is no ATM at the station but there is one about 200 metres away at the bus station - just turn right when you come out of the station, go around and past the main post office and the bus station is straight ahead.

Train Station Sarajevo Put života 2, tel. (+387) 33 65 53 30. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

Air travel Sarajevo airport (International Airport Butmir) is small and rarely too busy, helping it avoid the long baggage, immigration and customs queues that plague many of Europe’s other capital city airports. It has the facilities found at most airports including tourist information and currency exchange, a bar and cafe, an ATM and a souvenir shop. There is no regular

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scheduled bus service to the centre so your best bets are to either prearrange a transfer through your hotel or grab a cab - there are usually quite a few lined up outside and the 12km trip will cost about 20-25 KM (€10-12.50). As with all international airports, it’s not unheard of for taxi drivers to overcharge for a ride into town, especially if you’re a foreigner - make sure the metre is switched on before you depart.

Public Transport Bus Lines 14 Dom Armije - Podhrastovi 15 Marin Dvor - Buća potok 15B Otoka - Buća potok 16 Dom Armije - Bare 16A Dom Armije - Koševsko brdo II 16B Dom Armije - Koševsko brdo 17 Dom Armije - Breka 17B Dom Armije - Breka II 18 Drvenija - Pofalići 20 Park - Jagomir 20A Park - Jezero20B Park - Šip 21 Sutjeska - Vogošća 21A Sutjeska - Malešići 22 Sutjeska - Ilijaš - Lješevo 22A Stup - Vogošća 23 Marin Dvor - Rajlovac 23A Marin Dvor - Reljevo dom 23C Otoka - Boljakov potok 26 Stup - Dobroševići - Ahatovići 27 Ilidža - Hrasnica 27A Ilidža - Sokolovići 27B Ilidža - Kovači (Hrasnica) 28 Ilidža - Rakovica - Kobiljača 30 Ilidža - Hadžići 31 Nedžarići - Dobrinja 31E Vijećnica - Dobrinja 32 Ilidža - Butmir 33 Ilidža - Tarčin - Vukovići 34 Marin Dvor - Kiseljak 35 Sutjeska - Bakići 36 Nedžarići - Naselje Aerodrom 37 Grbavica - Lukavica - Ilidža 41 Drvenija - Gornji Velešići 41A Drvenija - Donji Velešići 42 Otoka - Dobrinja43 Ilidža - Osijek 44 Franje Račkog - Bjelašnica 45 Ilidža - Dejčići 46 Ilidža - Vlakovo 47 Ilidža - Trnovo 48 Ilidža - Delijaši Tram Lines 1 Željeznička stanica - Baščaršija 2 Čengić vila - Baščaršija 3 Ilidža - Baščaršija 4 Željeznička stanica - Ilidža 5 Nedžarići - Baščaršija 6 Ilidža - Skenderija 7 Nedžarići - Skenderija Trolley Lines 101 Otoka - Drvenija 103 Dobrinja - Drvenija 104 Alipašino Polje - Drvenija

Autumn 2009

getting around Adria Airways Ferhadija 23/2, tel. (+387) 33 23 21

Local bus schedule From Sarajevo First Last 05:00 23:30 07:30 05:00 14:30

22:00 05:00 14:30

12:15

06:30 06:45 10:00 10:30 15:30 10:00 07:20 07:45 07:45 07:30

15:35 20:45 19:00 14:30 15:30 10:00 07:20 18:30 18:30 22:00

05:30 08:00 08:30 14:00

19:55 08:00 08:30 14:00

08:30 10:00 10:00 07:30 05:45 05:30 07:30 10:00 12:15 06:00 10:00 13:00

17:00 10:00 10:00 22:00 20:50 20:50 22:00 10:00 14:30 17:00 10:00 13:00

05:00 10:00 00:30 07:45 07:45 07:00 15:30

20:00 14:00 00:30 18:30 18:30 15:50 15:30

07:10

14:30 07:00 07:30 05:00 05:00 06:45 15:30

17:00 17:15 22:00 18:00 18:00 20:45 15:30

06:00 07:30 05:30 05:40 12:15

21:30 22:00 21:00 15:30 14:30

City Banja Luka Bihać Bijeljina Bosanska Dubica Bosanski Brod Brčko Breza Bugojno Busovača Cazin Čapljina Čelić Derventa Doboj Donji Vakuf Fojnica Goražde Goražde Gornji Rahići Gradačac Hadžići Jablanica Jajce Kakanj Kiseljak Ključ Konjic Maglaj Mostar Neum Novi Travnik Olovo Pale Prijedor Prijedor Prnjavor Renovica Sanski Most

To Sarajevo First Last # / day 05:00 17:00 6 07:30 16:10 22:30

22:00 16:10 22:30

3-4 1 1

05:54

05:00 05:45 05:45 06:40 23:50 17:30 07:00 07:45 08.30 06:05

15:00 19:20 17:30 12:15 23:50 17:30 07:00 15:45 16:30 01:40

3 10-22 3-4 2 1 1 1 2 2 9 - 10

05:30 16:30 14:30 06:35

19:30 16:30 14:30 06:35

8 1 1 1

05:30 20:15 19:05 07:10 05:00 06:00 06:00 19:30 03:20 06:00 16:30 07:10

13:45 20:15 19:05 00:50 20:00 20:00 23:40 19:30 07:45 18:15 16:30 07:10

2 1 1 6 13-22 8-13 4 1 2 8-11 1 1

06:10 11:00 05:30 05:30 07:15 06:00 05:00

18:45 15:00 05:30 05:30 15:15 15:50 05:00

15-16 2 1 1-2 2 2 1

Srebrenica

16:30

Stolac Tešanj Travnik Tuzla

06:10 06:30 02:45 04:00 05:30 05:30 23:00

11:10 15:30 06:50 18:00 18:00 18:45 23:00

2 3 11-12 14-15 13 7-8 1

05:30 07:10 06:00 06:00 03:40

20:30 19:20 20:30 16:45 07:30

11-23 7-11 10-21 3 2

Vareš Velika Kladuša Visoko Vitez Zenica Zvornik Žepče

Sarajevo In Your Pocket

25/(+387) 33 46 43 31, fax (+387) 33 23 36 92, adr. sarajevo@adria.si, www.adria.si. The national Slovenian airline flies regularly to Sarajevo. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. A Austrian Airlines Kurta Schorka 36, tel. (+387) 33 28 92 42/(+387) 33 45 12 13, fax (+387) 33 45 12 13, office.sjj@aua.com, www.aua.com. Austrian Airways operates flights from Vienna to Sarajevo. The Austrian airport office also represents Lufthansa. QOpen 05:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A BH Airlines Branilaca grada broj 15, tel./fax (+387) 33 55 01 26, tel. (+387) 33 55 01 25, agencija@ bhairlines.ba, www.airbosna.ba. The national airline carrier of Bosnia & Herzegovina. Q A Butmir International Airport Kurta Schorka 36, tel. (+387) 33 28 91 00, www.sarajevo-airport.ba. QOpen 06:30 - 22:00. AGKX Croatia Airlines Kranjčevićeva 4/I, tel. (+387) 33 66 61 23/(+387) 33 25 86 00, fax (+387) 33 258 600, sjjto@croatiaairlines.hr, www.croatiaairlines.hr. The national airline of Croatia. Operates flights to Sarajevo from Zagreb. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Lufthansa Kurta Schorka 36, tel. (+387) 33 28 92 42/(+387) 33 45 12 13, www.lufthansa.de. The German airline operates services from Koln, Stuttgart, Munchen and Frankfurt to Sarajevo. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Malev Zelenih beretki 6, tel. (+387) 33 21 62 40/(+387) 33 47 32 01, fax (+387) 33 46 71 05, sarajevo@malev.hu, www.malev.hu. The national Hungarian airline operates services from Budapest to Sarajevo. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 15:30. Turkish Airlines Kulovica 5, tel. (+387) 33 21 29 38/(+387) 33 46 57 31, fax (+387) 33 47 03 31, www. thy.com. The Turkish airline operates regular services from Instanbul to Sarajevo. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

Car rental Avis Kurta Schorka 36, tel. (+387) 33 46 99 33/(+387)

33 289 278, fax (+387) 33 474 055, info@avis.ba, www.avis.ba. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. A CITO Dzemala Bijedica 185 - Hotel Radon Plaza, tel. (+387) 33 76 98 90/(+387) 63 83 00 14, fax (+387) 33 76 98 91, info@cito.ba, www.cito.ba. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Europcar Bulevar Mese Selimovica 16, tel. (+387) 33 76 03 60, fax (+387) 33 76 03 61, reservation@ europcar.ba, www.europcar.ba. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. . Rabbit Akifa Šeremeta 58, tel. (+387) 62 22 99 11/(+387) 61 96 62 93, info@rabbit.ba, www.rabbit. ba. Rents Smart cars from its location near the airport. Virtus Muvekita 7, tel. (+387) 33 22 36 26/(+387) 33 22 36 26, fehim@virtus.ba, www.virtusrent.ba. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.

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getting around

Local train schedule From Sarajevo

Car travel Sarajevo’s roads are much improved from a few years ago but this in turn may have contributed to the ever-increasing volume of traffic. Coming in and out of town is fairly straightforward with good signposting to the Centar but once in the heart of town non-local drivers need to contend with narrow streets, lots of one-way and ‘No Entry’ roads and the local drivers, who tend to be impatient behind the wheel and don’t mind using their horn to give a blast to anyone too slow to respond to a changed traffic signal. Those used to congested inner-cities won’t find it too much of a problem but the more hesitant may be best to leave the car parked at or near their hotel and use public transport, taxis and foot-power for getting around, all of which are less stressful and will give you the opportunity to see and experience a lot more than if you are gripping the wheel and gritting your teeth. This also gets rid of the problem of finding somewhere to park in the car-crowded centre. Drivers are required by law to have their headlights on at all times. This is mainly for safety reasons and when you enter one of Bosnia’s long tunnels you’ll be glad it is so. Another safety factor to bear in mind is that roads can be hazardous during the winters, with ice, fog and snow providing a challenge to all but the most experienced of mountainous terrain in winter drivers.

To Sarajevo

First

Last

City

First

Last

06:45 10:27 07:10 10:27

18:18 21:20 19:30 21:20

07:26 13:15 06:24 11:44

18:28 01:24 18:36 23:51

07:14

16:48

06:45 06:45 06:45 10:27 07:14 04:40 10:27 06:45 04:40 07:10 06:45 06:45 07:14 06:45 06:45 04:40 07:14 07:14 04:40 06:45 10:27 06:45 07:10 06:45 04:40 10:27 04:40 07:10 04:40 21:20 06:45 10:27 04:40 07:14 04:40 07:14 06:45

19:30 18:18 18:18 21:20 21:20 19:11 21:20 18:18 19:11 19:30 19:30 18:18 21:20 19:30 18:18 19:11 21:20 07:14 19:11 18:18 21:20 18:18 19:30 19:30 21:20 21:20 19:11 19:30 19:11 21:20 18:18 21:20 21:20 21:20 21:20 21:20 18:18

Bačević Banja Luka Blažuj Bosanski novi Bosanski Šamac Bradina Čapljina ČelebićI Čelinac Doboj Dobrinje Dragalovci Drežnica Drivuša Grad Hadžići Jablanica Kakanj Konjic Kručevići Lašva Maglaj Modriča Modrinje Mostar Omarska Ostrožac Ovčari Pazarić Podlugovi Prijedor Rajlovac Raštelica Semizovac Stanari Šurmanici Ukrina Visoko Zavidovići Zenica Žepče Žitomislići

# / day 2 2 3 2

05:44 7:00 08:43 13:29 03:26 05:58 14:29 08:00 05:24 05:34 06:15 05:49 05:28 05:14 07:11 05:32 03:54 17:09 05:40 07:38 12:36 08:36 05:24 06:06 05:52 18:18 06:40 05:55 06:30 02:49 07:09 14:02 05:45 04:15 05:02 16:11 07:17

20:11 18:02 19:40 01:38 18:14 20:07 02:42 19:02 15:38 17:38 20:39 19:26 20:17 19:47 18:13 15:46 18:42 17:09 15:54 18:40 00:45 19:33 17:28 20:31 20:41 00:26 20:49 17:59 20:39 02:49 18:11 02:19 20:34 19:03 19:51 04:26 18:19

2-3 2 2 2 3 6 2 2 5 3 2-3 2-6 3 2-3 2 5 3 1 5 2 2 2 3 2-3 3-5 2 5 3 5 1 2 2 3-6 3 3-5 3 2

Taxis Do not be surprised with the state of some of the cars you get into. There is no standard for vehicles that can be used as taxis in Sarajevo. Some of the taxi drivers can be very nice and polite but a large number of them are not. Don’t be surprised if your taxi driver lights up a cigarette or turns up the volume on his stereo just because his favourite turbo folk song is on the radio.

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clickandbuy.inyourpocket.com

Autumn 2009

getting around International bus schedule From Sarajevo Days -2-----2----1234567 ---4-------61234567 1234-67 1234567 1234567 1234567 -----61234567 -----61234567 1234567 1234567 -----6-----61234567 -2-4--7 1234567 1234567 -----61234567 -----61234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 -----6----5-1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 -----6- 2 - - -6 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567

Dep. 08:00 08:00 06:00 16:00 08:00 09:30 13:00 08:00 10:00 08:00 09:00 09:30 09:00 17:00 11:00 08:05 09:00 09:30 09:30 09:00 20:40 15:15 09:00 09:30 08:00 17:00 15:00 22:00 07:00 21:00 15:15 09:30 09:00 19:00 18:00 08:05 09:30 14:30 10:00 21:00 06:00 10:00 09:00 09:30 08:30 08:00 11:15 16:00 06:30 12:30 22:00 09:30

Sarajevo In Your Pocket

Arr. 13:10 10:25 13:10 23:10 07:40 11:30 17:05 15:20 15:50 09:20 21:00 01:30 19:15 19:25 18:50 01:50 15:40 21:00 04:45 23:30 06:00 03:10 17:00 22:00 02:50 08:10 22:00 05:45 14:00 04:30 02:10 06:00 14:30 04:30 02:50 23:20 13:50 21:10 18:00 04:30 13:35 18:00 02:00 08:30 09:00 22:45 23:30 23:55 14:50 20:55 06:00 16:00

City Amsterdam Antwerpen Belgrade Belgrade Berlin Berlin Berlin Dortmund Dubrovnik Frankfurt Gotenborg Gotenborg Graz Hamburg Herceg Novi Innsbruck Copenhagen Copenhagen Linkoping Linz Ljubljana Ljubljana Malmo Malmo München München Novi Pazar Novi Pazar Novi Pazar Novi Pazar Novo mesto Oslo Paris Pula Rijeka Salzburg Slavonski Brod Split Split Split Split Split Stockholm Stockholm Stockholm Vienna Vienna Zagreb Zagreb Zagreb Zagreb Zagreb

To Sarajevo Days -2-----2----1234567 1234567 -----6----5-1234567 1234561234567 1234567 1234567 ----5-1234567 ----5-1234567 1234567 1234567 ----5----4--1234567 1 -3 -5 - 1234567 1234567 ----5-1234567 ----5-1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 ---4--------7 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 ---4---2--5-1234-67 1234-67 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567

Dep. 08:00 10:45 06:00 16:00 10:00 17:00 07:00 05:00 15:00 11:00 13:30 02:30 21:15 05:00 08:00 16:00 18:30 07:30 22:30 17:00 19:15 20:00 17:30 06:30 18:00 16:25 10:15 14:00 07:00 22:00 21:00 21:30 14:00 14:30 16:00 18:35 19:10 06:00 16:00 09:30 07:00 09:30 09:00 17:00 16:00 18:00 18:00 18:50 06:30 12:30 22:00 16:45

Arr. 13:10 13:10 12:45 22:45 09:40 16:15 11:00 12:35 20:50 12:35 00:00 16:15 07:55 07:40 15:50 09:55 00:00 16:15 16:15 07:55 04:55 08:10 00:00 16:15 12:35 07:40 17:00 20:30 14:15 05:15 08:10 16:15 17:30 02:45 02:45 09:55 22:30 12:45 22:20 17:30 14:25 17:30 00:00 16:15 17:30 08:45 06:00 02:45 14:50 20:55 06:00 22:30

One way (€) 118 114 21 88 107 82 133 23 108 144 152 40 133 23 62 135 130 163 56 45 39 135 130 65 15

35 171 133 45 39 57 15 24 24 24 24 24 158 163 182 49 44 31 35 35 35 23

sarajevo.inyourpocket.com

getting around The standard starting rate for taxis and the rate per kilometre is € 2 and €0.75 per kilometer. One hour waiting rate is € 7.5 There is no difference in price if you order a taxi in advance. There are at least 50 different taxi ranks in the city. To get a taxi you just need to stand on the street and stop one or simply call one of the taxi services. There are about 1.200 taxis in the city. Samir i Emir taxi Travnicka 35, tel. (+387) 33 66 76 81. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Sarajevo taxi Tel. (+387) 33 15 15/(+387) 33 66 06 66, www.sarajevotaxi.com.ba. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Zuti taxi Bana Mateja Ninoslava 18, tel. (+387) 33 66 35 55. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

Travel Agents Centrotrans-eurolines d.d. Sarajevo Kurta Shorka

bb, tel. (+387) 33 464 040/(+387) 33 464 045, ferhadija16@hotmail.com, info@centrotrans.com, www.centrotrans.com, www.centrotours.ba. They speak English and German. Otas Maršala Tita 38d, tel. (+387) 33 221 410/(+387) 33 221 420, otas@otas.ba, www.otas.ba. Relaxtours Terazije bb, tel. (+387) 33 209 012/(+387) 33 263 190, relaxtours@relaxtours.com, www.relaxtours.com. Relax tours is the leading bosnian travel agency established in 1989 and the first privately held travel agency in Bosnia and Herzegovina. These travel agents also speak English and German.

International train schedule From Sarajevo Dep. Arr. 07:14 07:14 07:14

14:10 17:20 18:58

10:27 21:20 10:27 21:20 10:27 07:14 06:45 18:18 10:27 21:20 07:14 07:14 06:45 18:18 07:14 07:14 10:27 18:05 10:27 21:20 07:14 07:14 10:27 21:20 07:14 10:27 21:20 10:27 07:14 10:27 21:20 21:20 10:27 21:20

18:05 05:01 19:10 06:07 23:50 14:38 10:07 21:44 06:15 16:32 13:15 15:55 10:41 22:16 17:36 16:32 18:53 05:41 18:46 05:48 11:50 12:27 18:23 05:18 16:10 19:31 06:26 07:16 14:44 17:56 04:28 13:55 19:47 06:43

07:50 12:00

09:45 13:55

City

To Sarajevo Dep. Arr.

Beli manastir 14:22 Belgrade 06:20 Budapest 09:25 Đakovo 05:21 Dombovar 08:57 Hrvatska kostajnica 10:39 Hrvatska kostajnica 22:39 Lekenik 09:33 Lekenik 21:31 Ljubljana 06:15 Magyarboly 13:40 Metkovići 06:35 Metkovići 17:34 Munich 11:26 Munich 23:45 Osijek 14:54 Pecs 12:40 Ploče 06:05 Ploče 17:00 Sarbogard 10:49 Sasd 11:52 Sisak 09:52 Sisak 21:50 Sisak caprag 09:59 Sisak caprag 21:58 Slavonski Šamac 16:03 Strizivojna - Vrpolje 15:46 Sunja 10:22 Sunja 22:22 Szentlorinc 12:15 Velika Gorica 09:14 Velika Gorica 21:09 Venice 21:27 Villany 13:13 Volinja 11:03 Volinja 23:08 Vienna 06:04 Zagreb 08:47 Zagreb 20:59

21:09 21:39 21:09

07:10 10:52 18:05 06:20 18:05 06:20 18:18 21:09 10:02 20:59 06:20 18:18 21:09 21:09 10:02 20:59 21:09 21:09 18:05 06:20 18:05 06:20 21:09 21:09 18:05 06:20 21:09 18:05 06:20 18:18 21:09 18:05 06:20 21:09 18:05 06:20

Valid until December 1, 2009.

One of Sarajevo’s trademark trams

sarajevo.inyourpocket.com

Autumn 2009

getting around

Relaxing by the river in Vilsonovo

Flight schedule From Sarajevo Days --3--61-----1234567 1234567 ---4--7 -2-----2---------61---4-6-23-5-7 -2-4-------6---4-61234567 ------7 12345-7 -2-----2----12345612345-7

To Sarajevo City Days Dep. Arr. Banja Luka (JA) --3--613:30 13:45 Banja Luka (JA) 1-----22:00 22:15 Beograd (JU) 1234567 21:40 22:10 Budapest (MA) 1234567 14:50 15:55 Frankfurt (JA) ---4--7 21:00 23:20 Stuttgart (4U) -2----06:35 08:15 Stuttgart (4U) -2----16:25 18:05 Stuttgart (4U) -----610:15 11:55 Istanbul (TK) 1---4-613:55 14:45 Istanbul (TK) -23-5-7 17:15 18:05 Koeln (Cologne) (4U) -2--4-13:15 15:15 Koeln (Cologne) (4U) ---4--13:40 15:40 Koeln (Cologne) (4U) -----615:25 17:25 Ljubljana (JP) ------7 14:55 15:50 Ljubljana (JP) 1234567 15:55 16:50 Istambul (JA) 12345-7 11:00 12:10 Duesseldorf (JA) -2----16:40 18:45 Duesseldorf (JA) -2----17:55 20:00 Munich (LH) 12345-7 12:25 13:50 Munich (LH) 12345-7 20:50 22:15 Beograd (SOP) 1-----10:45 11:30 12345-16:45 17:30 Beograd (SOP) -2345-11:10 11:55 --3-5-10:05 13:00 Rygge (DY) --3-5-09:25 12:20 1-----11:30 12:45 Skopje (JA) 1-----14:45 16:05 ---4--12:00 12:40 Podgorica (JA) ------7 14:45 15:30 ------7 13:15 14:00 Podgorica (JA) ---4--16:15 17:00 1--4--12:00 14:35 Copenhagen (JA) 1--4--15:35 18:05 --3--610:10 13:00 Stockholm (DY) --3--609:25 12:20 1-3---07:00 08:35 Vienna (JA) -2-45-17:00 18:20 -2-4567 13:30 14:50 Vienna (JA) -----607:30 10:15 Goteborg (JA) ---4--03:30 06:15 --3---12:00 14:45 Goteborg (JA) -----611:15 14:00 --3---22:00 00:45 Goteborg (JA) --3---15:40 18:15 1234567 07:50 09:10 Vienna (OS) 1234567 14:40 15:50 1234567 15:25 16:40 Vienna (OS) 1234567 21:00 22:10 1234567 06:30 07:15 Zagreb (OU) 1234567 15:30 16:15 1234567 16:15 17:15 Zagreb (OU) 1234567 22:00 22:45 -2-4--07:30 09:55 Zurich (JA) -2-45-7 12:30 14:55 ----5-7 07:15 09:30 Zurich (JA) Airline codes: JP Adria Airways; JU Jat Airways; MA Malev; OS Austrian Airlines; TK Turkish Airlines; RA Icar air; LH Lufthansa; BA British Airways; JA BH Airlines; 4U germanwings ; DY norvegian.no; OU Croatia Airlines; SOP Solinair Dep. 07:00 15:30 06:30 15:20 15:00 08:45 18:35 12:25 14:55 18:15 13:45 15:55 14:10 16:25 15:25 06:15 13:45 15:00 06:35 13:00

Sarajevo In Your Pocket

Arr. 07:15 15:45 07:15 16:25 17:25 10:30 20:20 14:10 17:45 21:05 15:45 17:55 16:10 17:20 16:20 09:25 15:50 17:05 08:05 14:30

sarajevo.inyourpocket.com

Mail & Phones Internet To log in over a phone line with a local dialup method contact one of the following providers: BH Telekom +387 33 212 277, M-Tel Phone: +387 57 310 490, Eronet +387 33 259 970Wifi is available in some hotels, restaurants and bars. Free wifi in the city can be found in: Business center UNITIC, Hotel Holiday Inn, Bus station Sarajevo, BH Telecom Center, main post office. e-Agent 29 Brace Begic. Situated in Kosevko Brdo, across from the Chinese embassy. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Cost: 1km/30 mins. Gemini Internet Cafe B-3, Šenoina 16. Situated across the street from Marsala Tita. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. InterLink Centar B-4, Obala Kulina bana 7/III, tel. (+387) 33 20 59 43. Q Prices are more or less same at all Internet cafes. Cost: €1 for one hour, €2,5 for three hours, €4 for five hours, €7.5 for 10 hours. Internet CAFÉ AltarITC C-2, Husrefa Redzica 3, tel. (+387) 33 44 08 15/(+387) 61 22 25 65. Q Prices are more or less same at all Internet cafes. Cost: €1 for one hour, €2,5 for three hours, €4 for five hours, €7.5 for 10 hours. Internet Cafe Cyber Uyun Komerc. On the street across Mula Mustafe Bašeskje, the street behind the Cathedral. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Cost: 1KM/20 mins. Internet Club Click B-4, Kundurdžiluk 1, tel. (+387) 33 236 914. In the center, across from hotel Astra. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Cost: 1km/20 mins. Virtual Spot B-3; B-4, Petrakijna 6, tel. (+387) 33 20 05 99/(+387) 61 19 89 28, virtual@bih.net.ba, www. v-spot.ba. This spot offers one of the best deals in town. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. 1 hour - 2KM, 3 hour - 5KM, 5 hour 8KM, 10 hour - 15KM, 50 hour - 65KM, 100 hour - 100KM. ZemZem B-4, Mula Mustafe Bašeskje 61, tel. (+387) 33 239 648/(+387) 61 804 200. Q Cost: 1KM/20 mins.

BH Telecom (061, 062) B-4, Obala Kulina bana

8, tel. (+387) 33 21 22 77, fax (+387) 33 21 22 88, www.bhmobile.ba. All operators in BiH offer prepaid SIM cards. They are for sale in operators offices, post offices, newspaper stands, bookshops, shopping centers etc. You don’t need to show ID to get a SIM card. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. The basic set-up costs for all mobile providers is 5-10 EUR. Eronet (063) B-3, Branilaca Sarajeva 19, tel. (+387) 33 25 99 70, fax (+387) 33 25 99 71, www.eronet.ba. All operators in BiH offer prepaid SIM cards. They are for sale in operators offices, post offices, newspaper stands, bookshops, shopping centers etc. You don’t need to show ID to get a SIM card. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. The basic set-up costs for all mobile providers is 5-10 EUR. M-tel (065, 066) Trg ilidžanskih boraca bb, tel. (+387) 57 31 04 90, fax (+387) 57 310 490, www.mtel.ba. All operators in BiH offer prepaid SIM cards. They are for sale in operators offices, post offices, newspaper stands, bookshops, shopping centers etc. You don’t need to show ID to get a SIM card. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. The basic set-up costs for all mobile providers is 5-10 EUR.

Mailing These are the main international express mail companies and the main post office in Sarajevo.Every post office and bank in the city offers currency exchange cash into/from euros.

DHL Dzemala Bijedica 166, tel. (+387) 33 77 40 00, www.dhl.ba. QOpen 08:00. EMS B-1, Zmaja od Bosne 88, tel. (+387) 33 17 17, www.bhp.ba. QOpen 08:00. FedEx Brace Mulic 48, tel. (+387) 33 77 32 50, www. fedex.co.ba.

Main Post Office (Glavna pošta Sarajevo) B-1, B-2, Zmaja od Bosne 88, tel. (+387) 33 14 44/(+387) 33 14 23, fax (+387) 33 65 04 07. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Postal Rates: Letters.

Public phones There is only one public phone company in the city. All payphones are card-operated. You can get a card in every post office. The instructions on the telephones are in English too. Calling cards cost 1 Euro, 2 Euros, etc.

Making calls

Inside the central post office

Mobile phones All operators in BiH offer prepaid SIM cards, available for sale in operators offices, post offices, newspaper stands, bookshops, shopping centers etc.The basic set-up costs for all mobile providers is from 5-10 EUR.You do not need to show any forms of ID to get a SIM card. There is no place in Sarajevo or at the airport to rent a mobile phone.

sarajevo.inyourpocket.com

When you are: calling within the city, only dial the 6 subscriber number digits calling from the city to another city: dial city code with the zero, then the 6-digit subscriber number calling from abroad to the city: dial country code, city code without the zero, then the 6-digit subscriber number. calling to a local mobile number: dial mobile number with the zero.

Local phone codes Sarajevo

033

Banja Luka

051

Bihać

037

Mostar

036

Tuzla

035

Autumn 2009

Shopping

You can spend hours upon hours browsing through quaint boutiques, workshops and large department stores within the bustling old town alleyways or along the main shopping streets. Here is a selection of shops that may be worth a visit - buy anything from books, souvenirs to clothes, art and flowers.

Art Art Gallery B-1; B-2, Zmaja od Bosne 4 - Holiday Inn,

tel. (+387) 33 28 80 00, holiday@bih.net.net.ba. The art gallery is located on the mezzanine floor. You can take a look at the paintings of Mersad Berber, one of the most reknowned Bosnian & Herzegovinian painters. Art Shop B-3, Branilaca Sarajeva 24. Original and unique pieces of art and jewellery are on sale every Saturday at BKC. Q Open Sat 11:00-17:00

Bookshops You can find translated Bosnian literature in English, German and Italian in the bookshops listed. You may be interested in the following famous/popular writers in Bosnia: Miljenko Jergović (Ruta Tannenbaum) Emir Imamović (Tajna Doline piramida) Nenad Veličković (100 zmajeva) Ozren Kebo (Sarajevo za početnike) Faruk Šehić (Transsarajevo, poetry)

Buybook B-3, Radićeva 4, tel. (+387) 33 71 64

51/(+387) 33 71 20 10, info@buybook.ba, www.buybook. ba. Almost the definition of a ‘good book shop’, Buybook has a range of titles in both Bosnian and other European languages along with postcards that go beyond the typical tourist type images. Add a coffee shop and no pressure to buy and you have an ideal place to stock up on reading material. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Interliber Azize Sacirbegovic 100, tel. (+387) 33 712 515, fax (+387) 33 712 516, info@interliber.com, www. interliber.com. Interliber bookshop offers a whole range of books - computers, history, literature, you name it and in local and international languages. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. TKD Šahinpašić B-4, Maršala Tita 29 & Vladislava Skarica 8, tel. (+387) 33 21 05 30/(+387) 33 77 11 80, fax (+387) 33 77 11 88, info@btcsahinpasic.com, www.btcsahinpasic.com. Like buybook, Šahinpašić has a good range of titles including novels and non-fiction, with a wide selection of the myriad books written on the Bosnian conflict. It has many English language titles, very helpful staff, and the prevailing atmosphere is browse for as long as you like. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.

Fashion Bata C-3, Ćemaluša 3, and Kurta Šorka 7 - Wisa

Shopping Centar, tel./fax (+387) 33 45 03 15, www. bata.com. Bata is one of the world’s leading footwear retailers and manufacturers. Calypso B-3; B-2, Titova 15 & Fra Andjela Zvizodvica 1, tel. (+387) 33 44 42 49/(+387) 33 20 76 63, fax (+387) 33 20 76 63, info@calypso.ba, www.calypso.ba. Fontana shop B-4; B-2, Ferhadija 35, Zelenih beretki 20, Kralja Tvrtka 27. Fortuna sells a range of cosmetics and perfumes for men and women. Granoff B-3; B-4, Ferhadija 34 & Titova 34, tel. (+387) 33 55 22 52/(+387) 33 57 21 55, fax (+387) 33 76 96 31, info@granoff.ba, www.granoff.ba. If you’ve got an important meeting in town or you have to be present at a wedding, don’t hestitate! You can pick a suit at Granoff which is the place to get fitted in one of the best men’s fashion boutiques. Marina Rinaldi B-3, Radićeva 12, tel. (+387) 33 27 20 10. Martimex B-4; A-1, Strossmayerova 1 & Gradačačka 1, tel. (+387) 33 200 983, martimex_stross@bih.net. ba. Perfumes for men and women. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Oviesse TC Intershop, Kolodvorska 12, www.oviesse. com/en. Italian fashion outlet for men, women, children and home accessories. Retro B-1; B-2, Zmaja od Bosne bb RTC. This store sells funky, retro boots and shoes for men and women at resonable prices. Springfield B-4, Sime Milutinovica 12. Terranova B-4, Mula Mustafe Bašeskije 14, tel. (+387) 33 550 795/(+387) 33 550 796, www. terranova-on-line.com. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Theresa B-2, Fra Andjela Zvizdovica 1.

Flowers Cvjećara Nerina 2 B-1; B-2, Zmaja od Bosne bb. Cvjecara VI B-4, Mula Mustafe Bašeskije 59, tel. (+387) 33 23 37 14. Palma C-3, Bolnicka bb, tel. (+387) 33 44 53 45.

Markets Sarajevo has plenty of open markets with fresh fruit and vegetables but also many other interesting items. The main city markets are open every day from early morning hours until 17:00 or 18:00. Bascarsija Market (crafts) Ciglane market (Flea market, vegetables and fruit) Markale market (vegetables, fruit and flowers) Flea market Stup (only on Sundays) Otoka Market (food and clothes)

Shopping Centres BBI Centar B-3, Trg Sarajeva, tel. (+387) 33 560 500,

Grand Centar in Ilidža

Sarajevo In Your Pocket

info@bbicentar.ba, www.bbicentar.ba. The crème de la crème of Sarajevo’s shopping centres, it’s 43000m² of capitalism gone wild and the only modern mall in the centre of town. Opened back in April it took the place of the older Sarajka shopping centre that was one of the symbols of Sarajevo prior to the war. The architecture both inside and out is quite impressive - if perhaps not to everyone’s taste - and the selection of shops is the widest you’ll find anywhere in the city. Even if you’re not looking to shop the five floors of air conditioned asymmetry can be an attractive place to wander during the hot summer months. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.

sarajevo.inyourpocket.com

shoPPing Grand Centar Butmirska 14, tel. (+387) 33 626

291 . Yet anoth er o f th e cit y’s brand new modern shopping centres, it’s par t of the Sani G rand City development combining retail, municipal and residential space in the suburb of Ilidža. Anchored by a nearly 3000m² Mercator Hypermarket the mall is home to all kinds of shops from fashion and footwear to books and electronics, and of course the prerequisite restaurants, children’s play area and more than enough parking. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Mercator Centar Ložionička 16, tel. (+387) 33 28 61 50, www.mercator.ba. Sarajevo’s first modern shopping centre is still popular with locals. A bit out of the centre it’s relatively easily reached by tram, and parking is plentiful if you have your own transport. There’s the usual mix of local boutiques and large international chain stores including Intersport and Benetton, as well as a cheap cantina-style buffet and several other eateries. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. Skenderija Shopping Centar A-2, Terezije bb, tel./ fax (+387) 33 665 322, marketing@skenderija.ba, www.skenderija.ba. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. VF Korea Put Zivota bb, trimont@bih.net.ba, www. trimont.com.ba. WISA Bačići bb, tel. (+387) 33 71 02 10/(+387) 61 14 53 80, fax (+387) 33 71 02 11, maldoo@bih.net. ba, www.mal.ba.

Souvenirs Baščaršija is a colourful market area of narrow streets, broad squares, mosques, ca fés and scores of tiny handicraft, carpet, antique and souvenir shops. Most of the souvenir shops offer up the same wares - mugs and postcards, copper coffee sets and serving dishes and trays - but there are also some unique items to be found. The hundreds of thousands of shells and bullets that rained down on Sarajevo during the siege are now turned into pens and pepper pots, showing that the ingenuity of the citizens didn’t desert them once the hostilities ceased. Other interesting items include memorabilia from the Communist years and the Olympic weeks. Though the occasional hard-sell approach may make you feel you really are in Istanbul, the tinkling of the copper-workers’ hammers, the cobblestones and timber-fronted shops make Baščaršija a great place for wandering, looking, and no doubt buying something to take home with you.

Bosnian Handicraft Knitwear Shop Cizmedžiluk

1, tel. (+387) 33 551 535, bhcrafts@bih.net.ba, www.bhcrafts.org. Some of the best handmade gifts in town can be found here. Bosnian Handicraft sells handmade sweaters, gloves, scarfs and toys made by Bosnian women. Butik Badem Abadžiluk 12. If you’re looking for oriental spices and some amazing sweets and nuts then pay a visit to Butik Badem. The Turkish delights and candied almonds are something you’ve got to try. You’ll definitely find something you fancy there. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Gallery Nur Veliki Čurčiluk 35. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Kazandžiluk Street B - 4, Kazandžiluk bb. The famous coppersmith trading place on the west side of Baščaršija. Here you’ll find great antiques, hand carved copper dishes and oriental decor. The best place in the old town to get your local coffee set souvenir. Kiko Rugs Trgovke 19, tel. (+387) 61 207 504. The shop has a nice selection of new and used rugs. They

sarajevo.inyourpocket.com

Hand-made metal work in Basščaršija are local specialists and also have a repair service. You will find it in a small street starting from the lower part of the Pigeon Square. Oriental Shoes B-4, Saraci 15. These oriental leather shoes are hand-made and embroidered by craftsmen of Kalajdzisalihovic M. Ahmed, proud of their tradition dating back to 1822. Q Price 55 EUR, other models from 25 EUR, also available in textile. Souvenir shop B-4, Kazandžiluk 18a. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Vezenje B - 4, Mula Mustafe Bašeskije 20, tel. (+387) 33 233 532/(+387) 61 172 998, vezenje@ bih.net.ba, www.vezenje.ba. This small shop near the Markale market is the place to go if you’re looking for patches. From UN and EU to various police and paramilitary groups to sport teams and of course the 1984 Winter Olympics, they have them all. The patches by themselves run KM3-5, but you can get them affixed to decent quality shirts starting at only KM15. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Sports BB Sport Shop B-4; A-2; B-1; B-2, Ferhadija 3, Terezije bb, Zmaja od Bosne bb (TC Robot Socijalno) , Mula Mustafe Bašeskije bb, tel. (+387) 33 222 333, info@ bbsport.ba, www.bbsport.ba. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Intersport Ložionička 16 (Mercator Centar). Sport life B-4, Ferhadija 12.

sarajevo.inyourpocket.com Autumn 2009

directory Everything about communications, health, government, media, banks, real estate, language courses and so on.

Government

Clinics and Hospitals

D-2, Alipasina 41, tel. (+387) 33 212 884/(+387) 33 212 885, fax (+387) 33 212 883, apfbih@bih.net.ba, www.apf.com.ba.

Clinical Centre I. Sarajevo Kasindo 74, tel. (+387)

57 676 195, bolnica_kasindo@paleol.net. Eurofarm Centar Butmirska cesta 14, tel. (+387) 33 773 020/(+387) 61 13 63 06, eurofarm@epn.ba, www. eurofarmcentar.ba. QOpen 08:00 - 21:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Opća bolnica Sarajevo (General hospital Sarajevo) B-1; B-2, Kranjčevićeva 12, tel. (+387) 33 208 100, hospital@obs.ba, www.obs.ba. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

Poliklinika Dr. Gezo Mustafe Kamerića 10, Dobrinja,

tel. (+387) 33 450 102, fax (+387) 33 455 425, info@drgezo.ba, www.drgezo.ba. Physicians specialize in Otolaryngology, the medical and surgical therapy of problems of the ears, nose and throat. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. Poliklinika Dr. Hadžiomerović B-3, Maršala Tita 2, tel. (+387) 33 458 684/(+387) 61 188 009, drhomer@pksa.com.ba, www.drhadziomerovic.ba. A private clinic with services in Gynocology, Internal Medicine and Ultrasound. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Poliklinika FM B-1; B-2, Vilsonovo šetalite 6, tel. (+387) 33 22 33 88, info@poliklinika-fm.ba, www. poliklinika -fm.ba. Clinic specializing in cardiology, gastroenterology, endocrinology, radiology, breast diseases, neurology, orthopedics, urology, dermatology and physical therapy. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Poliklinke Atrijum Džemala Bijedića 185, Avaz Business Center, tel. (+387) 33 467 444/(+387) 33 768 765, fax (+387) 33 768 768, a_omerbasic@yahoo. com. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00 / 14:00 - 18:00. University of Sarajevo Clinical Centre C-3, Bolnička 25, tel. (+387) 33 29 70 00/(+387) 33 66 66 20, fax (+387) 33 44 18 15, info@kcus.net, www. kcus.net.

Dentists Dental Office Dr. Elma Hojkurić Paromlinska 40, tel.

(+387) 33 654 024/(+387) 61 497 227, elmahojkuric@ hotmail.com, www.dr-elma.com. Dental Surgery Bičakčić B-3, Maršala Tita 7, tel./ fax (+387) 33 208 288. Dental Surgery Dr. Begeta C-3, Ćemaluša 4/II, tel./fax (+387) 33 225 257, tel. (+387) 61 148 148, ordinacija@begeta.ba, www.begeta.ba. Dr. Edin Muhić Splitska 3, tel./fax (+387) 33 21 47 06, dr.edin@lsinter.net, www.ordinacijamuhic. ba. Dr. Hatidza Foco B-3; B-4, Dzenetica Cikma 10/II, tel. (+387) 33 218 057, info@drfoco.com, www. ortodoncija.com.ba. Dr. Lejla Cerić-Džaferović D-2, Patriotske lige 43, tel. (+387) 61 360 195, ordinacija@drlejla.com, www. drlejla.com.

Dry Cleaners Dry Cleaners (Hemijska čistiona Boos) B-3, Tabašnica 11, tel. (+387) 33 215 735, fax (+387) 33 221 378.

Dr y Cleaner s (Hemijska čistiona F leka) Paromlinska 2, tel. (+387) 33 614 220.

Sarajevo In Your Pocket

Agency for Privatization in FBiH B-2; B-3; C-2;

Commission to Preserve National Monuments

B-4, Obala Kulina Bana 1, tel. (+387) 33 276 760, fax (+387) 33 276 768, aneks8ko@bih.net.ba, www. aneks8komisija.com.ba. Council Of Ministers B-2, Trg BiH 1, tel. (+387) 33 211 581/(+387) 33 663 519, fax (+387) 33 205 347, mmicevska@vijeceministara.gov.ba, www. vijeceministara.gov.ba. Federal Ministry Of Finance B-3, Mehmeda Spahe 5, tel. (+387) 33 253 532/(+387) 33 253 400, fax (+387) 33 663 920, info@fmf.gov.ba, www.fmf.gov.ba. Federal Office of Statistics B-4, Zelenih Beretki 26, tel./fax (+387) 33 66 45 53, fedstat@fzs.ba, www.fzs.ba.

Foreign Investment Promotion Agency for BiH

B-3, Branilaca Sarajeva 21/III, tel. (+387) 33 278 080, fax (+387) 33 278 081, fipa@fipa.gov.ba, www. fipa.gov.ba/.

Government of Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina B-2; B-3; C-2; D-2, Alipasina 41, tel.

(+387) 33 212 986, fax (+387) 33 220 437, info@ fbihvlada.gov.ba, www.fbihvlada.gov.ba. Ministry of Civil Affairs B-2, Trg Bosne i Hercegovine 1, tel. (+387) 33 221 073, kabinet.ministra@mcp.gov. ba, www.mcp.gov.ba. Ministry of Foreign Affairs B-3, Musala 2, tel. (+387) 33 281 100, fax (+387) 33 472 188, info@mvp.gov. ba, www.mfa.gov.ba. Useful and up to date information, including the principles of BiH foreign policy, diplomatic and other activities of the MFA, and diplomatic - consular missions, as well as other necessary and useful information, such as issuing of traveling documentation of Bosnia and Herzegovina, or visas information.

Ministry of Justice of Bosnia and Herzegovina

B-2, Trg Bosne i Hercegovine 1, tel. (+387) 33 223 505, fax (+387) 33 223 507, kontakt@mpr.gov.ba, www.mcp.gov.ba. Presidency Of BiH B-3, Musala 9, tel. (+387) 33 555 691, www.predsjednistvobih.ba.

Insurance Companies Sarajevo Osiguranje B-3, Čobanija 14, tel. (+387)

33 203 270, info@sarajevoosiguranje.ba, www. sarajevoosiguranje.ba. UNIQA Osiguranje B-2, Fra Anđela Zvizdovića 1, tel. (+387) 33 295 500, fax (+387) 33 295 541, info@ uniqa.ba, www.uniqa.ba.

Language Courses Interlingua B-3, Skenderija 35, tel. (+387) 33 710

490/(+387) 33 710 491, fax (+387) 33 572 961, info@ihsarajevo.ba, www.interlingua.ba. Interlingua has become a member of The International HouseWorld Organisation. The International House World Organisation (IHWO) is a network of language schools worldwide that are committed to implementing high standards of quality and innovation in education and training. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Soroš School for Foreign Languages B-3, Maršala Tita 19/III,, tel./fax (+387) 33 44 44 88, osf@soros. org.ba, www.soros.org.ba. The School organizes courses in English, French, German and Italian for adults and children,

sarajevo.inyourpocket.com

directory and preparatory courses for TOEFL and IELTS tests. It also offers both individual and courses tailored for the needs of companies and organizations. There are also courses in Bosnian language for the foreign citizens in B&H.

Sos Kinderdorf Semira Frašte bb., tel. (+387) 33

Chambers of Commerce

Notaries

American Chamber of Commerce in Bosnia and Hercegovina B-1; B-2, Zmaja od Bosne 4, tel. (+387)

Mušir Brkić Rustem Papina 41/II, Ilidža, tel. (+387)

33 269 230, fax (+387) 33 269 232, amcham@lol.ba, www.amcham.ba. BiH Chamber of Commerce Branislava Đurđeva 10, tel. (+387) 33 663 370, fax (+387) 33 214 292, cis@ komorabih.ba, www.komorabih.ba. Chamber of Economy of Sarajevo Canton B-3, La Benevolencija 8, tel. (+387) 33 250 100, fax (+387) 33 250 137, webmaster@pksa.com.ba, www.pksa. com.ba. Foreign Trade Chamber of BiH B-3, Branislava Đurđeva 10, tel. (+387) 33 663 370, fax (+387) 33 214 292, j.lasic@kfbih.com, www.kfbih.com.

Lawyers and Consultants Beganović-Žutić Mirsada B-3, Radićeva 2, tel.

(+387) 33 219 225, h_zutic@bih.net.ba. Crnalić Asim B-3, Branilaca Sarajeva 20, tel. (+387) 61 208 683/(+387) 33 206 580. Eterović Amila B-3, Branilaca Sarajeva 10/III, tel./ fax (+387) 33 215 430, tel. (+387) 33 207 434, info@ aketerovic.com, www.aketerovic.com.

Media BHT Television Bulevar Meše Selimovića 12, tel.

(+387) 33 455 211, www.bhrt.ba. Public service broadcasting TV station in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Bosnia Daily B-1; B-2, Zmaja od Bosne 4/X, tel. (+387) 33 288 035/(+387) 33 288 034, bdaily@ megatel.ba, www.bosniadaily.co.ba. Online newspaper in English focusing on Economics and Politics. Dnevni Avaz Newspaper Džemala Bijedića 185, tel. (+387) 33 281 490, redakcija@avaz.ba, www.avaz. ba. A daily newspaper. Oslobođenje Džemala Bijedića 185, tel. (+387) 33 276 900/(+387) 33 467 723, www.oslobodjenje. com.ba. Sarajevo Prime Television Bulevar Mese Selimovica 12, tel. (+387) 33 776 777/(+387) 33 776 770, pitajte@tvsa.ba, www.tvsa.ba.

NGOs Budi moj prijatelj (Be my friend) D-2, Patriotske lige

24, tel. (+387) 33 668 660, www.budimojprijatelj.com. Fondacija Mozaik A-3; B-3, Soukbunar 42, tel. (+387) 33 266 480, fax (+387) 33 266 482, info@mozaik.ba, www.mozaik.ba. Mozaik is a community development foundation that provides grants and advisory support to local initiatives of common interest throughout Bosnia and Herzegovina. Infohouse A-3; B-3, Soukbunar 42, tel. (+387) 33 227 614/(+387) 61 525 054, infohouse@infohouse.ba, www.infohouse.ba, www.ljudskaprava.ba. Nansen Dijalog Centar C-2, Hakije Kulenovića 10, tel. (+387) 33 273 461/(+387) 33 556 846, fax (+387) 33 556 845, office@ndcsarajevo.org, www. ndcsarajevo.org. Save the Children Hamdije Cemerlica 2/14, tel. (+387) 33 719 485.

sarajevo.inyourpocket.com

465 323/(+387) 33 465 218, fax (+387) 33 465 218, soskind@smartnet.ba, lamija.turcilo@smartnet.ba, www.sos-ds.ba.

33 763 455, mbrkic@bih.net.ba.

Nasiha Alić , tel. (+387) 33 766 245, naca124@ gnet.ba.

Opticians Oftalmološka ordinacija Dr. Sefić B-4, Ferhadija

5/1, tel. (+387) 33 210 212, fax (+387) 33 210 125, ordinacija@sefic.ba, www.sefic.ba. Optika Baroš B-4, Ferhadija 30, tel. (+387) 33 573 900, fax (+387) 33 201 860, info@optikabaros.ba, www.optikabaros.ba. Optika Loris Topal Osman paše 32, tel. (+387) 33 715 520, fax (+387) 33 715 522, optikaloris@bih.net.ba, www.optikaloris.ba. Optika Nur Velika avlija 12, tel. (+387) 61 529 894, info@optika.ba, www.optika.ba. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00 / 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Optika Oculto B-3, Šenoina 12, tel./fax (+387) 33 666 333, info@oculto.ba, www.oculto.ba.

Pharmacies Apoteka Baščaršija B-4, Obala Kulina bana 40,

tel. (+387) 33 272 300/(+387) 33 272 301, www. apoteke-sarajevo.ba. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. Apoteka Marijin Dvor B-3, Maršala Tita 1, tel. (+387) 33 714 280. Apoteka Novo B-1; B-2, Zmaja od Bosne 51, tel. (+387) 33 713 830/(+387) 33 713 831, informativna@ apoteke -sarajevo.ba, www.apoteke -sarajevo.ba. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Biljna apoteka Matija Paunovski B-4, Zelenih beretki 28, tel./fax (+387) 33 626 200, info@ ap oteka matija.ba, w w w.ap oteka matija. b a . Q O p e n 0 9: 0 0 - 2 0: 0 0, S a t 0 9: 0 0 - 1 5: 0 0. Closed Sun.

Real Estate Artis C-3, Hadži Idrizova 6, tel. (+387) 33 222

506/(+387) 61 148 810, prodaja@nekretnineartis.ba, narudjba@nekretnineartis.ba, www.nekretnineartis. ba. Prostor d.o.o B-4, Zelenih Beretki 30, tel. (+387) 33 570 555, fax (+387) 33 570 556, info@prostor.ba, www.prostor.ba. SigenX B-3, Plato Skenderije, tel. (+387) 33 667 727, info@sigenx.com, www.sigenx.com.

Relocations A u t o p r e v o z n i k Te l . (+ 3 8 7 ) 6 1 74 9 5 6 1 , dajaktransport@gmail.com.

Centrotrans International Džemala Bijedića

153, tel. (+387) 33 457 103/(+387) 62 134 714, centrotransmt@bih.net.ba. Intereuropa RTC Halilovići 12, tel. (+387) 33 465 054, damir.arapovic@intereuropa.ba, www. intereuropa.ba.

Autumn 2009

Street register A.Zvizdovića B2 Avde Jabučice B2 A. Šahinagića B4 Alifakovac B5 Alije Bejtića B5 Antuna Hangija C2 Avde Hume C2 Alipašina B2,B3,C2,D2 Armaganuša C3 Arapova C4 Ašikovac C4 Adžemoviæa C4 Asima Ferhatovića D3 Alije Nametka D4 Branilaca Sarajeva B3 Bakarevića B4 Bistrik B4,A4 Bistrik potok B4,A4 Brdo džamije B4 Bentbaša B5 Braće Morić B5 Bolnička C3 Brdakčije C3,D1,D4 Bjelave C3 Braće Eskenazi C4 Bakije sokak C5 Breka D3 Budakovići D4 Crni vrh B2,B3 Ciglane C2 Curak C3 Cadordžina C4 Carina C5 Ćebešije donje C5 Čobanija B3 Čeljugovići B5 Čekaluša C3 Čemerlina C4 Dolina B2 Danijela Ozme B3 Dol B5 Dajanli Ibrahim-bega C2 Derebent C3 Dola C3 Ðenetića č. B3,B4 Dž. Čauševića B3 Džidžikovac B3,C3 Džinina C4 Emerika Bluma A2 Ejuba Ademovića B3 F. Račkog B2 Ferhadija B4

Franjevačka B4 Grbavička A1 Garaplina A4,B4 Goruša B2 Gorica B2,C2 Gazi Husrev b. B4 Gabelina C3 Golobrdica C4 Glođina C4 Grličića brdo C5,D5 Huremuša A4 H. Dizdara A4 Hiseta B2 Hamdije Kreševljakovića B3 H. Kikića B3 Hadžiabdinica B4 Hrvatin B4,B5 Hošin brijeg B5 Halida Kajtaza C1 Hakije Kulenovića C2 Husrefa Redžića C2 Himzarina C3 Halim-hodžina C4 H.Kajimije C4 Hadži-Jamakova C5 Humka D4 Hrastovi D4,D5 Iza hrida B5 I. Cankara C3 Jezero B3 Josipa Vancaša C3 Josipa Štadlera C4 Jekovac C5 Jukićeva D2,C2 Kovačića A2 Kamenica A5 Kranjčeviæa B1,B2 Kalemova B2 K. Hermana B2 Kotromanića B2 Kralja Tvrtka B2 Kulovića B3 Kovači B4,C4 Konak B4 Kačanik m. B5 Kačanik v. B5 Koševo C2,D2,C3,B3 Kevrin potok C3 Kartal C4 Karpuzova C4 Kečina C4 Livanjska C2,D2

Logavina C4 Ljubušaka B3 Mrakuša A3 Magribija B2 Mjedenica B3,B4 Musala B3 Mis Irbina B3 Mehmeda Spahe B3 Maršala Tita B3 M.M.Bašeskije B4 Megara B5 M.Mujezinovića B5 Muhameda Hadžijahića C2,D2 Marija Mikulića C2 Mandžina C3 Mejtaš C3 Mehmed-paše Sokolovića C3,C4 Medresa C4 Mandrina C4 M. Handžića C4 M.Čazima Čatića C4 Mejlijina C4,C5 Mišćina C5 Mraovac C5 Mlini C5 Marcela Šnajdera D3 Mihrivode D4,D5 Nevesinjska A2 Nova Tekija B2,B3 Nadmlini B5 Nevjestina B5 Nalina B5 Okrugla A4 Omera Stupca B2 Odobašina B2,C2 Obala Maka Dizdara B3 Obala Kulina Bana B4 Obala Isa-bega Isakovića B4 Očaktanum C4 Put mladih Muslimana A2,A3,A4,B3,B4,B5 Petrakijina B3,B4 Pod bedemom B5,C5 Podcarina B5 Provare C3 Pirin brijeg C4 Potoklinica C4 Potok C4 Prijeka česma C5 Ploča C5 Radičeva B3

Rizaha štetića C3 Ramića sokak C5 Ramić banja D5 Rogina D5 Soukbunar A3,B3 Stolačka B3 Skenderija B3 Stake Skenderove B3 Sarači B4 S. Skarića B4 Sutjeska C2,C3 Sepetarevac C3 Sarač Ismailova C3,C4 Safvet bega-Bašagića C4 Sunulah Efendije C4 Sagrdžije C4 Strošići C5 Stjepana Tomića C3,D3 Safeta Pašalića C3,D3 Sedrenik D4,D5 Skender Kulenovića D4,D5 Streljačka D5 Šenoina B3 Šerina B5 Šekerova C3,C4 Šeih Mehmedova C3 Širokac C5 Terezija A2 Terzibašina A4 Tešanjska B1,B2,C2 Tepebašina B2 Tina Ujevića B3,C3 Trčivode B5 Tijesna C3,C4 Turbe B5 Vilsonovo šetalište B1,B2 Vrbanja B2 Valtera Perića B2 V. Skarića B4 Velešići C1 Vojislava Kecmanovića C2,D2 Višnjik C3 Vrbanjuša C4 Vinograd C5 Vratnik C5 Za beglukom A4,B4 Zmaja od Bosne B1,B2 Zelenih beretki B4 Zaima Šarca C3 Zatikuša C3,C4 Zmajevac C5 Žgarići A4

Vječna Vatra, or the Eternal Flame

Sarajevo In Your Pocket

sarajevo.inyourpocket.com

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Sedreni

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BAŠČARŠIJA

Petrakijina č. Đenetića

and ž

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Obala Maka Dizdara Hamdije Kreševljakovića

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GORICA

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Crni vrhh

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Omera Stupca

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Alipašina Raadićeva

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Muhameda Hadžijahića

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Index

Sarajevo In Your Pocket

sarajevo.inyourpocket.com

Unique books from

Ireland (and 21 other prizes)

Complete our latest readership survey at inyourpocket.com/survey and we’ll enter you in our prize draw: the winner gets something priceless and unique from every country currently In Your Pocket. Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

VILNIUS

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WARSAW

“In “I In Your Pocket: written wr ritt it series of guidebooks.”

August - September 2009

September AAugustt - S t b 2009

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

BELFAST YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

PRAGUE December 2008 - January 2009

Aug - Sep 2007

Užupis

A brief sojourn inside Vilnius’ distinctly eccentric independent republic

Better by design

Stunning souvenirs, stylish shopping and local crafts on display

Vingio Parkas

From Tolstoy to rollerblades, the city’s favourite park is pulled apart and examined

The Great Outdoors

Feel the burn, catch the waves, take a hike

Gastro Tourism Northern Ireland on a plate

After the Battle Warsaw Uprising 70 years on

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Warsaw‘s Barbican

Christmas Markets

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NORTHERN IRELAND HIGHLIGHTS & HIDDEN GEMS

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TIRANA

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

BUCHAREST

2006 - 2007

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

WARSAW

April - May 2006

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

PRAGUE

ST. PETERSBURG April 2006

August - September 2006

A New Look

We‘ve never looked better: In Your Pocket gets a makeover

Blogging Bucharest

Our guide to the best politically incorrect comment online

Going to the chapel

Karlštejn’s renovated jewel

Easter Greetings Shopping fever

Explore the Polish Versailles

Facade art

Poland‘s top spa town: Nałęczów

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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

BELFAST

TALLINN

KRAKÓW

Simple Minds, t.A.T.u. & Cosmonaut’s Day

N°34 - 100 Kč www.inyourpocket.com

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

COLOGNE

August - September 2006

April - May 2006

August - September 2006

Culture & Events

April 2006 N°24 www.inyourpocket.com

LOOK

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

Visiting the Bohemian Paradise

The best ways to discover the language

NEW

ISSN 1641-5264

Let’s rock

Russian in Russia

Out of town

Painting the city pink N°4 - 400 lek www.inyourpocket.com

Egg breaking & church walking…

Wilanów

Tirana’s first malls

June - July 2006

Football events Win or lose, this is where to party

River tours

Wine and dine on the Rhine

The Great Outdoors

Cycling, skydiving and country pursuits

Gastro Tourism Seafood, whiskey and St. George’s Market

Tarnów

Touring Narva

Explore the Pearl of the Renaissance

Cool sights at the EU‘s eastern border

Leisure

Getting active in Kraków

N°41 - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT) www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1508-2334

IYP gets a new look

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The inside scoop on the new look inside

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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

GDAŃSK

BERLIN

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

RIGA

Including

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HAMBURG

ŁÓDŹ

SOPOT & GDYNIA August - November 2006

August - September 2006

June - July 2006

April - May 2006

September - December 2006

Kashubia

Exploring the Polish Alps

Hot spots

The Baltic’s Beaches

Harbour tours

Explore Latvia

Win or lose, this is where to party

Everything you need to know about IIHF World Championship in Riga

Floating the boat

Take a day trip to the seaside towns of Jūrmala and Liepāja

100 museums in one night N°23 - €1.75 www.inyourpocket.com

Hockey Fever

Museum night

N°20 - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT) www.inyourpocket.com

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ISSN 1640-3592

Spree river tours

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

SKOPJE

Hollyłódź

Poland‘s cinema city

Down in the docks

Stars in your eyes

Football events

From Polanski to Max Factor, read about the famous natives.

N°2 - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT) www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1896-1169

N°1 Complimentary copy www.inyourpocket.com

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

2006 - 2007

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

SHKODRA

FRANKFURT

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

PRISTINA

KAISERSLAUTERN

2006 - 2007

August - September 2006

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

June - July 2006

Football events Win or lose, this is where to party

Skopje snapshots

Feature 2 - max 2 lines

Shkodra snapshots

The Marubi photo collection

Short description of the feature. Should be max. 3 lines.

The Marubi photo collection

Around town

Daytrips to the lake, beach and mountains

Beach bars

Football events Win or lose, this is where to party

Cocktail in hand, toes in sand

N°1 - Complimentary copy www.inyourpocket.com

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Dram tram

Sipping ebbelwei on the cider express

Going Palatine Strolling in the forest N°1 - Complimentary copy www.inyourpocket.com

N°1 - €3 www.inyourpocket.com N°1 Complimentary copy www.inyourpocket.com