MENSWEAR
GMT STYLE WINTER 2014
CONTENTS A/W
2014
NEWS WORDS
NATTHIAS MITCHINSON
WORDS
STYLE INSIDER 2SQUARE WORDS
CATWALK TRENDS
MARIA MARTIN - CARO
NATTHIAS MITCHINSON
GET THE LOOK WORDS
MUST HAVE STYLE GUIDE
ALICE MONICA
EDITORIAL
EDITORIAL TEAM MARIA MARTIN - CARO Editor - In - Chief
ANNA ZATS
Assistant Editor - In - Chief
NATTHIAS MITCHINSON Fashion Editor
ALICE MONICA Stylist
MARIA KRISNEL PAYUMO Graphic Designer
A. SAUVAGE
EMPORIO ARMANI
GIVENCHY
GUCCI
RICHARD JAMES
UMIT BENAN
VELVET JIL SANDER
KRIS VAN ASSCHE
LOUIS VUITTON
SAINT LAURENT
ANA LOCKING
DAVID ELFIN
TRENDS
- By: Natthias Mitchinson
SLIM SLACKS
LANVIN
RICHARD NICOLL
SAINT LAURENT
AGI & SAM
BURBERRY
DIOR HOMME
PAUL SMITH
ASTRID ANDERSEN
‘Over the past few seasons, looser trousers have been featuring on the runways but it seems that trend is over. Slim slacks are in and the looser fitting clothing is going back up top. Saint Laurent and Viktor Rolf both cropped the trousers at the ankle giving a casual feel to the trend whereas Tom Ford and Fendi kept the length and with it, the formal feel.’
WINTER COATS ‘This trend translated right throughout the runway in various different styles. Haider Ackermann and Louis Vuitton added length to their outerwear creating the impression of an elongated silhouette that exaggerates the proportions whist retaining a sophisticated feel Salvatore Ferragamo and Lanvin went for structured silhouettes that helped to retain shape and structure, by exaggerating the neck line they reinvented the silhouette of the trench coat without making it appear commercially unviable. E.Tautz went in the complete opposite direction by displaying free flowing and structurally oversized silhouettes that as demonstrated, go perfectly with a formal suit.’
TRENDS
- By: Natthias Mitchinson
CAMEL CHIC
AMI
CALVIN KLEIN CALVIN KLEIN
CORNELIANI
CHRISTOPHER KANE
KENZO
MISSONI
MR. GENTLEMAN
VERSACE
VALENTINO
For me, camel has been translated mainly into outerwear, and is the perfect way to add lighter tones to the darker attire that men wear throughout Autumn/Winter. The cut of the coat should be sharp, well fitted and refined, making a it an investment piece that will last for seasons to come.’
LOUIS VUITTON
‘Camel chic’ is a trend that has featured on the runways around the world this season. In London, Gieves and Hawkes provided a traditionally British take on the trend with their classic cut coats and defined fabric. Internationally, designers such as Ermengildo Zegna and Versace shone light on a more contemporary approach to the trend using fabrics with more depth and texture to create a casually sophisticated impression.
PATTERNS GALORE
Burberry and Dolce & Gabbana gave us more culturally intense prints. Paying yet more homage to their Italian background, Dolce & Gabbana featured religious referencing throughout their use of prints in a way that created a balance of casual/formal in their trademark effortless fashion.’
A. SAUVAGE
‘Fine knit is old news, this season sees the return of the classic chunky knit. The chunky knit jumper trend is clearly staying at the darker end of the colour spectrum with designers such as Belstaff and Philipp Plein keeping to a tradition black that goes with just about everything. Do not be afraid to inject some different colours though, Tom Ford featured dark purple whilst Dolce & Gabbana and Fendi stuck to shades of grey.’
BURBERRY
AMI
CHUNKY KNITS
CHRISTOPHER SHANNON
DOLCE & GABBANA
Colour blending was used by both Givenchy and Lou Dalton in two extremely different ways. Givenchy kept it cool and sophisticated with dark base colours being filtrated with lighter yellows and whites to create an almost poetic print. Lou Dalton went brighter using tye-die, this technique is uncontrollable which represents the playful side of the brand and gives a more casual feel.
GIVENCHY
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
‘It was patterns galore on the menswear runway this season, different colours and print techniques have made this trend universal and instantly adaptable to various looks. Formalities have been retained with the use of heavily dark prints by Vivienne Westwood and E.Tautz. They both used repeated angular shapes to create harsh and quite intense patterns.
NEWS
DKNY Mens AW14
Review
By Natthias Mitchinson
T
here is one word to epitomise the entire DKNY Autumn/ Winter 2014 collection, and that word is, versatility.
“We imagined him going to work, but also out to play” the words of Design Director Garry Martin when asked to describe the DKNY man this season. This vision has been translated with the utmost accuracy. This concept of young city dweller on the go is connoted through the sheer versatility of every single garment, there is an almost ‘mix and match’ feel echoed throughout - from the brown roll neck jumper with contrasting sleeves that would work so effortlessly with the grey patterned blazer.
I
t is clear that the DKNY man this season is effortless in style, this is not the sort of collection that requires a lot of thought when getting dressed - this is partly due to the fact that this collection will translate almost exactly as it is from the runway, through to retail. This is always a sign of direction in a collection, meaning that we can purchase from the collection in stores whilst looking at the runway for inspiration on how to wear the garments together. The colour palette bared homage to the brands routes, another colour that echoed throughout was blue, a blue that complimented the shades of brown with ease, a blue so subtle in appearance that it connoted femininity whilst maintaining masculinity - it’s a perfect balance, classic DKNY.
“Overall this collection is perfect for the day-to-night dresser that wants to achieve an effortless look of casual sophistication.”
STYLE INSIDER - ART
2SQUARE
“So I have a big bank of sketches to pull from. Some I’ve held onto for a couple of years because I haven’t had the right wall for them yet.” -JV
00-GMT : What are some of the key elements and aspects that you look for when picking up a sketch, idea and transferring it on the wall? How does your work process? (smile) 2SQUARE Justin Vallee - Jeremiah Taylor:
00-GMT: How many art pieces have you created around the world?, also which mural would you choose as your favourite piece? 2SQUARE Justin Vallee - Jeremiah Taylor:
JV: I’m constantly sketching and challenging myself in different sketchpads at the same time. I work different paces in each and end up drawing walls from a few. So I have a big bank of sketches to pull from. Some I’ve held onto for a couple of years because I haven’t had the right wall for them yet. Placement is just as important as material. Some images come to me randomly while others are inspired from an idea or another image. The subject matter can range as well as the emotions I’m trying to get across. JT: It starts with the desire I have in my heart. what do I need to express? what is it that, I want to tell the public? I have a burning desire to share what gives me strength and clarity. My content always changes, with my feelings and moods. I try to make the works personal to the mood. My paintings are a diary of my feelings. A “romantic writer”
JV: Thats a good question, I think we’ve painted a few hundred so far give or take. Some real detailed others not so. Choosing a favorite is not an easy thing. Different pieces were different battles. Not everything is cut and dry or easy to paint. Sometimes you have to climb around more and put your life at risk to finish. I enjoy the battle whether it’s placement, rain, wind, people. Obstacles may present themselves but past of the battle is how you work through them. JT: I have no idea of the count, but my favorite piece was a wall that, I did in Miami. It was of a famous photograph ,of the movie ashes and snow. for those who haven’t seen the movie, its a must see. visually perfect poetry. Its not that it is my best piece, but its my personal favorite. the feeling, the location, my first mural of that size. it felt so innocent. it looked as such. it just felt right. it portrayed me perfectly, in that time
00-GMT: what are some of the most memorable challenges that you have had experienced as an artists? 2SQUARE Justin Vallee - Jeremiah Taylor: JV: Every city treats you differently I think if you are open to it they can all change you a little. JT: Every time I paint its a monumental mountain that I climb. I passionately love painting and drawing, but it’s not so easy. it’s hands down the most challenging thing I do in life. I believe all of my success comes from a transcendent knowledge, that allows me to defeat the fear (unknown) and become more powerful in my paintings. it’s a lifestyle and a belief that has got me thus far. The more I understand the more articulate I become , in life,and in painting 00-GMT: Now!! We know there´s a new 2Square tour coming up? Can you share something with us, who would be the new Director recording this adventure and where’s it taking place? Shall we keep it in secret? (smile) 2SQUARE Justin Vallee - Jeremiah Taylor: JV: We just came off a tour in Europe for 3 1/2 months and working in Wynwood. I had a quick trip to Thailand in which I was able to do some cool stuff. We are about a month away from going through the lower states and visiting a few cities we’ve never been to here in the US. After that we plan to take a South America tour. Some of the tour has been recorded and we have a large product in development. That’s really all I can say about it. JT:Watch out, North and South America 00-GMT: 2SQUARE has been featured in magazines and fashion editorials, modeling for top photographers. How do you feel with this experience? 2SQUARE Justin Vallee - Jeremiah Taylor: JV: I take each experience as it comes, we’ve been really fortunate to work with some amazing photographers from around the world. Had tons of cool stuff published and some things that are still down the line waiting to drop. We are both honored to be able to work in so many industries and remain free agents to a degree. JT: I’d like to take a moment to thank my mom and dad. thank you! its been fun. I understand that every artist needs a muse. Justin and, both have a lot of people that inspire us. its good to give back and be that for someone else.
GET THE LOOK
GET THE LOOK
The
LOOK
How to wear...
the BOMBER JACKET
“The bomber jacket is a fantastic addition to any modern capsule wardrobe and will subtly lift any of your existing smart-casual looks. You can combine this effortless DSquared bomber jacket with a pair of SACAI trousers, and DSQUARED 2 classic shirt unlike before, Alongside LANVIN a simple classic loafers, with Stirling Lansen Chrono watch to complete the entire look. If you want to wear it to work, I suggest you keep the monochrome colour combination for a smarter attire but, depending on your Bomber Jacket & White Shirt – Dsquared2 area of work, bolder colours and patters may Trousers – Sacai Slippers Shoes – Giuseppe Zanotti Design fit in too.” -By Alice Monica | Stylist
GET THE LOOK
The
LOOK
How to wear...
the BLANKET COAT
INSIDER TIP
"The blankets coat are back in season!
Blanket Coat – Stella McCartney Trousers & Belt- Reiss Shoes- Topman
The STELLA MCCARTNEY blanket coat looks amazing and classic worn alone, as the season changes, but is even more fun to layer over an additional sweater from DKNY and smart pair of trousers from LANGTON T worn with an exclusive belt from VINNIE come blustery autumn! With a pair of TOPMAN shoe. Consider it this season’s update on your favorite scarf, sweater, and coat all at the same time. Don’t wait! Shop this look immediately." -By Alice Monica | Stylist
The
LOOK
How to wear...
the CHECKMATE OUTFITS
INSIDER TIP Check mate: Do you like chess?
Jacket/Jumper & Trousers– Uniqlo Trainers – Topman Scarf – Jaeger
Well, regardless of your answer, fashion wants you to be a real-life chessboard this season. No matter where you stand, checkered garments is in style this season. Check your wardrobes. Here’s an amazing Men fleece check set from UNIQLO worn with ONITSUKA navy red trainers from TOPMAN. In the evening, you can add this amazing Fleece check jacket from UNIQLO and Staggered scarf of course from JAEGER to keep yourself warm. -By Alice Monica | Stylist
MUST HAVE
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1
4
3
5 1 6 7 9
8
5
1
CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN
GIVENCHY
6
2
BALLY
3
VALENTINO GARAVANI
BURBERRY LONDON
7
LANVIN
8
4
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
SAINT LAURENT
9
NEIL BARRETT
2 1
3
4 5
6 7
9
8
5
1
ANN DEMEULEMEESTER
PAUL SMITH
6
GIVENCHY
7
2
COLE HAAN
RICK OWENS
8
3
DSQUARED2
4
SONG FOR THE MUTE
KENZO
9
SAINT LAURENT
SPORT WEAR Photography – Simone Lezzi http://www.simonelezzi.com
Photographer Assistant – Antonio Putini @cameraworklondon Style Director – Maria Martin – Caro http://www.mariamartincaro.com Make Up Artist – Anna Wild (using YSL) http://www.annawild.co.uk Hair Stylist – Atsushi Takita (using Bumble and Bumble) http://atsushitakita.com Model – Gregory Location – Crew8 Studio http://cre8studiolondon.com
Leather Jacket - Iceberg / Top & Shorts - NICOMEDE TALAVERA
BOLD Prints Top - Rachel James
IN QUILT Quilted Coat - Na Di Trouser - Antony Morato Boots - Anatomic
Chunky Knitwear
Jumper - Stone Island
Jumper - Burton / Trousers - Nicomede Talavera / Brogue Shoes & Scarf - Antony Morato
STYLE GUIDE
STYLE GUIDE
Embroidery
3.1 PHILLIP LIM
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
BOTTEGA VENETA
DOLCE & GABBANA
ERMANNO SCERVINO
KENZO
LANVIN
OUR LEGACY
RICK OWENS
VALENTINO
VERSACE
SAINT LAURENT
JIMI ROOS
MARCELO BURLON
PUBLIC SCHOOL
HELMUT LANG
ALEXANDER WANG
ROBINSON LES BAINS
CHRISTOPHER KANE
ISSEY MIYAKE
JONATHAN SAUNDERS
AQ/AQ
CHRISTOPHER KANE
STYLE GUIDE
SPORT LUXE
DRKSHDW BY RICK OWENS MONCLER GAMME BLEU
DKNY
TIM COPPENS
WOOYOUNGMI
DKNY
RICHARD NICOLL
COOLS
HELMUT LANG
NEIL BARRETT
GIVENCHY
GIVENCHY
3.1 PHILLIP LIM
MCQ BY ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
AGI & SAM
STYLE STYLEGUIDE GUIDE
3.1 PHILLIP LIM
ERMANNO SCERVINO
JUUN J.
KITON
FUR
COLOMBO
Coat
JAGGER
DROME
JIL SANDER
LANVIN
REISS
MANGO
VALENTINO
UNCONDITIONAL
SPRUNG FRÈRES
SAINT LAURENT
WOOLRICH
MONCLER GAMME BLEU
M&S
Y-3
PTO1
GREEN head to toe TOPMAN
ASPESI
BOTTEGA VENETA
SAINT LAURENT
JIL SANDER
DELIKATESSEN
STYLE GUIDE
DAMIR DOMA
BALMAIN
FENDI
HELMUT LANG CERRUTI 1881 PARIS
BOTTEGA VENETA
“khaki, sage, olive, moss, carob, brown” BALMAIN
PAUL SMITH
MANGO
BOGLIOLI
STYLE GUIDE
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
BRIAN DALES
ISAIA
DOLCE & GABBANA
IA N CO RN EL
BE RG IC E
ET RO
I
CANALI
M &
LA Y U V RE ES N SA T VI IN N T TA G E
O
S
AN G
TOMORROW LAND
M
S
IS
DOUBLE RE
KOLOR
Breasted
KR IS VA N
AS S
CH
E
TAILORED Double Breast Photography – Simone Lezzi http://www.simonelezzi.com Photographer Assistant – Antonio Putini @cameraworklondon Style Director – Maria Martin – Caro http://www.mariamartincaro.com Make Up Artist – Anna Wild (using YSL) http://www.annawild.co.uk Hair Stylist – Atsushi Takita (using Bumble and Bumble) http://atsushitakita.com Model – Gregory Location – Crew8 Studio http://cre8studiolondon.com
Suit & Shirt - Duchamp / Brogue Boots - Anatomic
Bomber Jacket
Shirt - Duchamp / Trouser - Volcom / Jacket - Antony Morato / Glasses - Cutler and Gross
Smart Work Wear
Blazer - Antony Morato / Jumper - Penfield / Trouser - Duchamp / Shoes - Anatomic
TUXEDO
Blazer & Tie - Duchamp / Shirt/Trouser & Evening Shoes - Antony Morato
Designer A ANATOMIC http://www.morato.it ANTONY MORATO http://www.anatomicshoes.com
B BURTON
http://www.burton.co.uk
C CUTLER AND GROSS
D DUCHAMP
I ICEBERG
http://www.cutlerandgross.com/
http://www.duchamplondon.com
http://www.iceberg.com
N
Na Di http://www.nadistudio.com/ NICOMEDE TALAVERA http://www.nicomedetalavera.com
P PENFIELD
http://penfield.com/
R RACHEL JAMES
S STONE ISLAND
V VOLCOM
http://racheljamesltd.com
http://www.stoneisland.co.uk
http://www.volcom.eu