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if y ou’ve got this guidebook in y our pocket, y ou’ll disco ver AMSTERDAM in no time flat. The best places of interest, museums, parks, rest aurants, cafés and shops are all listed for each city district. Six walks will guide you to past ALL THE NICEST SPOTS during the day. There are tips for what to do in the evenings and comfortable hotels to suit every pocket. The EASY-TOFOLLOW MAPS will sho w you where y ou are and where y ou need to be.

Go shopping in the Nine Streets, examine the works of the Dutch Masters in one of the museums, admire the modern arc hitecture of the Islands, immerse yourself in the multicult ural Pijp and the East Indian district and have a beer in the Caf é Nol. 100% AMSTERDAM FOR PEOPLE WHO DON’T WANT TO MISS A THING!

W I T H

T I P S

F R O M

AMSTERDAM

Whether you’re sightseeing, shopping, looking for good food or adventure;

AMSTERDAM

JOURNALIST EVELIEN VEHOF HA S LIVED IN AMSTERDAM FOR THE PAST FIVE YEAR S AND TOTALLY ADORES THE CITY. ITS CULTURAL VENUES, FES TIVALS AND SITES MAKE AMSTERDAM THE BES T CIT Y IN HOLLAND. CULTURE VULTURES WILL ALWAYS FIND SOMETHING TO DO! FOR 100% AMSTERDAM, SHE DESCRIBES HER FAVOURITE PLACES AND SHE HAS ALSO FOUND SOME NEW RES TAURANTS, SHOPS AND UNUSUAL PLACES FOR YOU TO VISIT.

WITH CITY MAPS

L O C A L S !

www.100procenttravel.com

9 789057 675621

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ENGLISH GLISH EDITION! ON!

ISBN 978-90-5767-562-1 ISBN 978-90-5767-562-1

EVELIEN VEHOF

ISBN 978-90-5767-562-1

ENGLISH ON! EDITIO

DISCO VER C I TY I N T H E 6 WA L K S

9 789057 675621

S I G H T S E E I N G + H O T E L S + R E S TA U R A N T S + S H O P S NIGHTLIFE + MUSEUMS + MAPS

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10 0 % A M ST E R DA M Amsterdam is one of the most expensive and multi-cultural cities in the world.

It‘s also an exceptionally creative city with its many cultural studios and refuges for artists of every ilk. There‘s always something going on in 'Mokum'.

Still, where do you start if you want to see all the best places? If you love shopping for example, you should visit the Negen Straatjes, and for the nicest little restaurants and trendiest pubs, head for the Pijp. You‘ll find genuine brown pubs in the Jordaan, and historic buildings all round De Wallen and the Dam. Art and culture lovers should go to the NDSM-werf, the Roest terrain and the Westergasterrein. This guide will make sure you don‘t miss a thing: sightseeing, shopping, good food and adventure. The excellent maps will point you in the right direction.

10 0 % A M S T E R DA M , E X P LO R E T H E C I T Y I N N O - T I M E !

2 - GENERAL

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Contents ABOUT 100 % AMSTERDAM

4

HOTELS

8

TRANSPORT

14

DISTRICT 1: CITY CENTRE

16

DISTRICT 2: JORDAAN & WESTERPARK

36

DISTRICT 3: NEGEN STRAATJES

56

DISTRICT 4: OUD-ZUID & OUD-WEST

76

DISTRICT 5: REMBRANDTPLEIN, UTRECHTSESTRAAT & DE PIJP

96

DISTRICT 6: DE EILANDEN & OOST

116

OTHER PLACES OF INTEREST

136

NIGHTLIFE

138

INDEX

142

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About 100 % Amsterdam To make this guide easy to follow, we have divided Amsterdam into six districts and included a detailed map for each. The general map at the front of the guide shows you where the districts are in relation to each other. We have used the letters A to W to show you where you can find the hotels, and other places of interest and entertainment described in the guide.

The next six chapters contain even more detailed descriptions of what there is to do in each district, the major places of interest and the best places to eat, drink, shop, relax and have fun. We have given each address a number 1 that you‘ll find on the map at the end of the chapter about the district. The colour of the number indicates what kind of place it is:

places of interest food and drink

shopping fun things to do

SIX WALKS In each chapter we‘ve added a walk that lasts about three hours if you want to see everything quickly! A line on the map shows the route. There is a description of the walk on the opposite page and you can take in the most interesting places and best addresses in each district so that you won‘t miss a thing. The routes show you places of interest, museums and parks as well as unusual shops, great places to have lunch and super restaurants. If you don‘t actually want to follow the route, you can still use the descriptions and the map to find your own way around.

INDICATONS OF PRICES FOR HOTELS AND RESTAURANTS We have included price indications with each address to give you a general idea of how much the hotels and restaurants cost. Unless indicated otherwise, the hotel prices are for a double room per night, not including breakfast. Unless indicated otherwise, the restaurant prices are the average cost of a main meal.

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NATIONAL HOLIDAYS As well as the Easter, Whitsun and Ascension Day holidays, the Netherlands also has the following official holidays: 1 January - New Years Day 30 April - Queen‘s Day 25 & 26 December - Christmas FESTIVALS There are various annual festivals all over Amsterdam, particularly in the summer months. We have made a list of the major events below: Holland Festival - May & June (www.hollandfestival.nl) International performing arts festival. Experimental music, operas, plays and dance at venues like the Stadsschouwburg and Muziekgebouw aan het IJ. Amsterdamse Bostheater - June, July & August Open-air plays in the Amsterdamse Bos. Amsterdam Roots - June (www.amsterdamroots.nl) Annual Festival of global music and culture with over sixty concerts at venues round the city plus the Roots Open Air Festival in the Oosterpark.

ITs Festival Amsterdam - June & July (www.itsfestivalamsterdam.com) The latest crop of performance artists from home and abroad show off their graduation pieces during the International Theatre School Festival.

Keti Koti Festival - July (www.ketikotiamsterdam.nl) Both a celebration and remembrance of the abolition of slavery in the former Dutch colonies. This is an exuberant music festival in the Oosterpark.

Over het IJ Festival - July (www.overhetij.nl) Theatre-on-the-move festival in Amsterdam-Noord. During the festival there are performances at different locations such as the NDSM-werf.

Juli Dans - July (www.julidans.nl) This festival is renowned for its international, contemporary dance. Performances all over the city from West to South East.

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Appelsap - last Sunday in July (www.appelsap.net) Music festival in the Oosterpark. Hiphop, urban music, soul, modern jazz.

Canal festival - August (www.grachtenfestival.nl) Classical music peformances in some very unusual places both on and near the water in the city centre, the banks of the IJ and Amsterdam Noord.

Loveland - August (http://lovelandfestival.nl) Dance festival with (live) acts in the Sloterpark.

Kwakoe Festival - July & August (www.kwakoefestival.nl) Multi-cultural festival, over six consecutive weekends in the Bijlmerpark.

Amsterdam Gay Pride - beginning of August (www.amsterdampride.nl) The biggest gay event in the Netherlands, with cultural and sporting activities, parties and the over-the-top boat parade (Canal Parade).

De Parade - first 2 weeks of August (www.deparade.nl) Travelling theatre festival in the Martin Luther King Park, with various (unusual) theatre, music and dance performances.

Uitmarkt - last weekend in August (www.uitmarkt.nl) Opening of the cultural season. Performances, festivities and stalls. Venues like the Museumplein, the Leidseplein and the Vondelpark.

Hartjesdagen - August (www.stichtinghartjesdagen.nl) Colourful street festival with folk music, street performers and operetta, which closes with the transvestite 'heart parade', in and round the Zeedijk.

Zomer in de Tolhuistuin - June, July & August (www.tolhuistuin.nl) Cultural festival in Amsterdam-Noord in the Tolhuistuin park. It has an open air stage, music, a wooden dance floor, climbing frames and good food.

IDFA - November (www.idfa.nl) The latest and the best documentaries from home and abroad are shown during the eleven days of the IDFA international documentary film festival.

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DO YOU HAVE ANY TIPS? We have taken a great deal of care in compiling this guide book. There are an enormous number of shops, places to eat, cafés and bars in Amsterdam and they are changing all the time. We hope it doesn‘t happen, but if you can‘t find an address, or if you have any comments or tips, then please let us know via our website at www.100procenttravel.com. The site also has a forum where you‘ll find updates to, and additional information for, the guidebook.

To avoid any misunderstandings, we must state that we haven‘t received any form of payments for the selection of the addresses or for the photos. The text has been written by independent editors.

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Hotels Amsterdam has something for everyone and that goes for hotels too. There is a huge choice. Are you looking for something modern or would you rather go for nostalgic? Large or small? The prices vary from € 23.50 a night in a youth hostel to the sky-high cost of one night in a five-star hotel. Alongside the familiar hotel chains and plenty of middle-range hotels, Amsterdam also offers some rather more unusual places to stay.

Below are some unusual hotels in different price ranges. We‘ve given each a letter, so you can easily find them on the map at the front of the guide book.

For more hotels, look at www.100procenttravel.com. The www.amsterdamaccommodation.nl website is also handy if you are looking for an apartment or a B&B, and www.amsterdamtourist.nl (Amsterdam‘s Tourist Office) also has information about the city, including hotels and other places to stay.

BUDGET The Hotel Belga is in one of the Negen Straatjes, and the 17th century building was designed by Rembrandt's picture framers. It's an attractive, rather chaotic family-run hotel, with a wonderful breakfast buffet. It's perfectly placed for a weekend of shopping, but is also within easy reach of cultural places of interest. hartenstraat 8, de negen straatjes, www.hotelbelga.nl, 020 6249080, from € 41, trams 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 14, 16, 17, 24, 25 dam A

In 2010, the two friends, Anika and Lotje opened the Coco Mama in Amsterdam. They wanted to make a cross between a hotel and a hostel, a kind of a dormitory with deluxe bedding. There is a shared kitchen if you want to make your own meals and join in the fun of being in a hostel. There are private rooms if you prefer. Anika and Lotje will tell you everyting you need to know about Amsterdam, the best place to hire a bike nearby and the nicest places to eat. There's an open, friendly atmosphere where guests have plenty of chance to get to know each other if they want to. westeinde 18, frederiksplein, www.cocomama.nl, 020 6272454, from € 51, shared room from € 36, tram 4 stadhouderskade B

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W I N STO N

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HOTEL DE FI L O SO O F

The Winston comes as a nice surprise, tucked away as it is among the rather grubby hotels in the Warmoesstraat. This stylish hotel has art as its inspiration and 8 of the 67 rooms have been designed by artists, the ‘Heineken room’ being the most popular. They also have dormitories for anyone on a tight budget. The adjoining Winston Kingdom nightclub has live music and is one of the city‘s real hotspots for both tourists and Amsterdammers. warmoesstraat 129, centrum, www.winston.nl, 020 6231380, from € 75, shared room from € 30, trams 1, 2, 4, 5, 9. 13, 14, 16, 17, 24, 25 dam C

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At the Bickersbed you‘re really among the locals. These smart studios are in a 17th century building on the Bickerseiland, surrounded by real Amsterdammers. This was the centre of trade in the Dutch Golden Age in the 17th century, but nowadays it feels more like a village with its small streets. The studios in the Bickersbed are self-catering and have fully-equipped kitchens. grote bickerstraat 23 hs, bickerseiland, www.bickersbed.nl, 020 4228264, from € 80, citybus 18, 21 buiten oranjestraat D

MID-RANGE De Filosoof hotel is in a quiet neighbourhood near the Vondelpark and has a large garden, a bar and 38 rooms. Each room is unique and decorated with the wisdom of famous philosophers. There‘s the Confucius room with its dark purple decor and delicate furniture, while other rooms focus on Spinoza, Nietzsche, and Wittgenstein. Other themes include passion, clouds and water. anna van den vondelstraat 6, vondelbuurt, www.hoteldefilosoof.nl, 020 6833013, from € 105, tram 1 j.p. heijestraat E

Hotel Arena has always been one of the city‘s most unusual hotels. This historic building isn‘t just a popular base for travellers and businessmen, but also a much-loved dance temple for many Amsterdammers. This former Catholic orphanage really swings, especially on Friday and Saturday evenings with 80s, 90s and 00s parties hosted by Arena Tonight. The hotel‘s 121 rooms are minimalistic in design. It has its own car park (€ 12 per 24 hours). ’s-gravesandestraat 51, oosterpark, www.hotelarena.nl, 020 8502410, from € 109, tram 3 beukenweg, trams 7, 10 korte ’s-gravesandestraat, trams 9, 14 mauritskade F

The Lloyd Hotel in the Oostelijke Handelskade (East Docks) is a lovingly restored national monument. It‘s an unusual hotel with 120 rooms that vary from one to five stars, where fifty artists and designers have worked together to make each room unique. It also has a restaurant/lobby where you can order simple snacks or full meals. There‘s a Cultural Embassy for readings, concerts, films and a library, too. oostelijke handelskade 34, oostelijk havengebied, www.lloydhotel.com, 020 5613636, from € 110, bus 43 lloydplein, tram 10 azartplein G

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Anyone who appreciates 'sustainable accomodation' heads straight for the Conscious Hotels. This 100% eco-friendly hotel with 81rooms near the Vondelpark has a sustainable, green philosophy.The airy rooms have desks made from recycled yoghurt cartons and fridge interiors. The cleaning staff only use 100% environmentally-friendly and biodegradable cleaning agents.

The foyer is covered with a living plant-wall and has designer furniture. As you would expect, they serve an organic and Fair Trade breakfast. overtoom 519-512, vondelpark / overtoomsesluis, www.conscioushotels.com, 020 820 33 33, from € 115, tram 1 overtoomsesluis H

TOP END Hotel V is reasonable-priced boutique hotel. They have free wifi, Applecomputers and a smart interior with lovely design features. This modern hotel is actually inside four 19th century historic buildings.It's very centrally located in the Pijp district. There is another Hotel V near the Amsterdam Arena. weteringschans 136, frederiksplein, www.hotelv.nl, 020 6663233, from € 130, trams 4, 7, 10 weteringschans I

The College Hotel is the perfect place to stay for anyone who appreciates style.This hotel is in a 19th century school building and has superb service and a lovely terrace. You'll find the local yuppies relaxing in the bar, which also has a very good name. roelof hartstraat 1, oud-zuid, www.thecollegehotel.com, 020 5711511, from € 175, trams 2, 3, 5, 12 roelof hartplein J

The incredibly luxurious Amstel Hotel is a five-star hotel in a lovely location on the banks of the Amstel. This huge, stately building has been patronized by such famous personages as Bono, the ageing rock stars the Rolling Stones, and not to mention members of various European royal families. It has 55 rooms and 24 suites, as well as the classy restaurant La Rive; its classic French-Mediteranean cusine has been awarded one Michelin star. They serve unique spiced wines. You can't dine dressed in jeans. professor tulpplein 1, weesperplein, www.amstelamsterdam.com, 020 5565565, from € 300, metro 51, 53, 54 weesperplein, tram 7, 10 weesperplein K

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THE COL L E G E H O T E L

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Transport Getting to Amsterdam is easiest by train. When you exit the Centraal Station you‘ll soon be in the city centre. If you arrive by car, it‘s best to leave it in one of the city‘s car parks. The charges for parking on the street vary per city district, from € 1.30 to € 5 per hour. The nearer you are to the centre, the more expensive it is. You can also buy a day ticket in one of the machines and pay with a bank card. If you want to keep the costs down, then leave your car in one of the P+R (Park and Ride) car parks: they are at the Amsterdam Arena, Sloterdijk station, Gaasperplas, World Fashion Centre, Bos en Lommer and the Olympic Stadium. You pay € 8 per 24 hours (with a maximum parking time of 96 hours) and you get two return tickets for public transport (www.amsterdam.nl/parkeren-verkeer).

For public transport in the city itself you have to have a (full) OV-chipkaart: this is a personal travel pass. If you don‘t have one, you can buy a non-personalized OV-chipkaart from one of the machines at the train and metro stations, or you could buy an hour or day ticket in the tram itself (www.ov-chipkaart.nl).

It‘s easy to travel around the city by tram. Amsterdam has sixteen tram-lines, most of which run from or via the Centraal Station to the different city districts. The bus is handy if you want to go a district that lies a bit further away from the centre. There are night buses that go from or via the Centraal Station. Check www.gvb.nl for up-to-date information.

Metro lines 53 and 54 link Amsterdam Centraal Station with the city‘s SouthEast district. Line 51 runs from Centraal Station via Buitenveldert to Amstelveen, and line 50 runs from Amsterdam Sloterdijk station via station Zuid to Gein.

You can hail a taxi on the street and there are taxi ranks all over the city. The best-known taxi firm is TCA (020 7777777). The initial charge is € 7.80 (this includes the first 2 kilometres). The maximum charge for a taxi with a maximum of four passengers is € 7.50 plus € 2.20 per kilometre. Do make sure that your taxi driver is sticking to these rules. You‘ll always find taxis at Amsterdam Centraal Station. In the centre you‘ll also find bright yellow electric taxis or bike-taxis which cost € 1 per three minutes.

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If you really want to feel like a local in Amsterdam, then you ought to get on a bike; it‘s such an easy way of getting round the city. You can hire bikes near the Centraal Station and in lots of other places around the city (www.macbike. nl, www.bikes.nl).

Real tourists take the 'hop on hop off' boat (four routes, twenty stops). They travel round the canals and stop near the major museums, shopping areas and attractions. If you get a day ticket (€ 20) you can get on and off all the routes all day long. You can also buy evening tickets (www.canal.nl). Another idea is to take a round trip starting from the Rokin. If you use the 'hop on hop off' bus (nine stops) you will get a great view of the city. A day ticket costs € 18 (www.hoponhopoffamsterdam.nl).

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City Centre

History, red light district and canals Amsterdam has a fantastic street plan, thanks to the ring of canals, which was added to the World Heritage list by UNESCO in 2010. During the Golden Age (in the 17th century), huge buildings with large gardens appeared and the Kalverstraat was transformed from a dusty meat market into a posh shopping street. It isn’t actually so posh any more: now it’s full of all the usual chain stores and during the day is heaving with people. Even so you can still find some lovely places round the Kalverstraat, like the Begijnhofje and the Amsterdam Museum, and on the ‘Nieuwezijds’ you’ll find some shops run by up-and-coming young designers: a good idea if you want to avoid the mainstream shops.

The streets round the Oude Kerk, known as De Wallen, form the oldest part of the city centre. They date from the Middle Ages, when the city still relied on the trade in herring and beer. De Wallen has since become the world’s most famous red light district. If you’re interested in peepshows, banana bars

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1 and the prostitutes in the windows, then they have an open day once a year when you can have a look inside.

The liveliest areas are in Chinatown and in the Nieuwmarkt. You’ll find most of the countless Asian shops and cafes on the Zeedijk - much frequented by vistors from every culture. Head for the Recht- en Kromboomsloot, which used to be packed with sailors; it's hard to believe nowadays as it’s so quiet.

The Dam is the historic heart of Amsterdam, where you’ll find the National Monument, the Nieuwe Kerk, and the recently restored Koninklijk Paleis. The Nes is also an interesting part of Amsterdam. At first glance it doesn’t look very special at all, but it does have lots of theatres. There’s plenty in the way of culture in the evenings.

And, yes, round the Warmoesstraat and Zeedijk you’ll often fall over a drunken tourist or two but the city centre has so much more to offer than coffee shops and prostitutes.

CITY CENTRE - 1 7

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6x what not to miss

Oudemanhuispoort

CafĂŠ Bern

Rembrandthuis

Walk through the gateway

Enjoy their famous cheese

See where the Old Master

along with the students.

fondue.

used to live.

Het Houten Huisje

SPR Specials

W139

Organic snacks in a little

Buy famous designer

Admire the experimental

wooden hut.

clothing.

artwork.

Places of interest Shopping

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Food and drink Fun things to do

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Places of interest The Fo Guang Shan He Hue Temple is the largest Chinese Buddhist temple in Europe. There are Buddhist services and you can take a course in Chinese or Buddhism. Guided tours except on Sundays, but book in advance. zeedijk 106-118, www.ibps.nl, phone 020 4202357, open tues-sat 12.0017.00, sunday 10.00-17.00, free entrance, trams 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 16, 17, 24, 25, 26 centraal station 6

Visiting the Rembrandthuis will give you a really good idea of the home and work place where the famous painter lived between 1639 and 1658. You can see his paintings, etchings and drawings in the museum. jodenbreestraat 4, www.rembrandthuis.nl, phone 020 5200400, open daily 10.00-17.00, entrance fee € 10, trams 9, 14 waterlooplein, metro 51, 53, 54 waterlooplein 14

The Oudemanhuispoort is a covered walkway leading from the Oudezijds Achterburgwal to the Kloveniersburgwal. This gateway no longer leads to Oudemannen- en Vrouwengasthuis, but to the Binnengasthuisterrein of the University of Amsterdam. It's always full of students and you'll find stalls with second-hand books and magazines. oudemanhuispoort, open mon-sat 12.00-18.00, free entrance, trams 4, 9, 14, 16, 24, 25 muntplein 19

An oasis of peace in the bustling city. In the Middle Ages, the Begijnhof was where pious women lived, cared for the sick and provided education. It's open to the public now – a perfect place for contemplation. begijnhof (entrance through the gate on spui), free entrance, trams 1, 2, 5 spui, tram 4, 9, 14, 16, 24, 25 rokin 21

You can find out everything about Amsterdam in the Amsterdam Museum. Its history is retold through stories about the city, old films, photos, sound recordings and paintings. nieuwezijds voorburgwal 357 and kalverstraat 92, www.amsterdammuseum. nl, phone 020 5231822, open mon-fri 10.00-17.00, sat-sun and public holidays 11.00-17.00, entrance fee € 10, trams 1, 2, 5 spui, trams 4, 9, 14, 16, 24, 25 rokin 22

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Originally, this classical Palace on the Dam was the Town Hall, and it didn't become a palace till after 1808. Amsterdam's Royal Palace is still used for ceremonial occasions. After its restoration in 2008, the Palace was (partly) reopened to the public. The interior of the building is beautiful, thanks in part to the restored chandeliers, furniture and works of art. dam 1, www.paleisamsterdam.nl, phone 020 6204060, open july-aug 11.0017.00 & sep-june 12.00-17.00 (closed on mondays and during official receptions), adult entrance fee € 7.50, trams 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 14, 16, 17, 24, 25 dam 28

De Nieuwe Kerk (New Church) was built towards the end of the 14th century, because de Oude Kerk (Old Church) was too small to accommodate the growing number of worshippers. Nowadays it hosts regular art and photo exhibitions. This is where Crown Prince Willem-Alexander and Princesss Máxima were married on 2-2-2002. dam 17, www.nieuwekerk.nl, phone 020 6386909, open only when there's an exhibition, times vary, entrance fee varies, trams 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 14, 16, 17, 24, 25 dam 29

De Oude Kerk (Old Church) is the oldest monument in Amsterdam, and has now been designated as a European Monument. Concerts and exhibitions are held here regularly. oudekerksplein 23, www.oudekerk.nl, phone 020 6258284, open mon-sat 11.00-17.00, sun 13.00-17.00, entrance fee € 5, trams 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 16, 17, 24, 25 dam 32

There is a 16th century church hidden in the attic of a canalside town house. The Reformed Church was all-powerful in those days, and Nonreformists were forced to hold services in places that didn't look like churches. This is how Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder came into existence. oudezijds voorburgwal 40, www.museumamstelkring.nl, phone 020 6246604, open mon-sat 10.00-17.00, sunday and public holidays 13.00-17.00, adult entrance fee € 7, trams 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 16, 17, 24, 25 centraal station 33

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REM B R A N D T H U I S

14

Originally the Beurs van Berlage was designed, not surprisingly (as Beurs means stock exchange), as a stock exchange, dealing in corn, stocks and commodities. Its architect, Berlage, was influenced by Italian architecture, but he also wanted to create a fairer society without the need for stock exchanges. His design reflects his beliefs. Amsterdam still has a stock exchange, but nowadays the Beurs van Berlage is a place for conferences, concerts and exhibitions. There is a guided tour once a fortnight which tells you all about the architectural history of the Beurs van Berlage. damrak 243 , www.beursvanberlage.nl, phone 020 5313355, open fortnightly guided tours sat 11.00-12.15, check website for details, guided tour â‚Ź 12.50 incl. refreshments, trams 4, 9, 16, 24, 25 dam 35

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Food and drink You simply don't expect to find a place like this opposite the Centraal Station, but you will feel right at home in the artistically decorated living room. Pop into the Dwaze Zaken to enjoy the dish of the day or just for a beer. On Mondays you can try the ‘pot luck’ for just € 6. They often have live jazz and various exhibitions. prins hendrikkade 50, www.dwazezaken.nl, phone 020 6124175, open monsat 12.00-0.00, price € 6, trams 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 16, 17, 24, 25 centraal station 1

Get a taste of Old Amsterdam in the Int Aepjen café. The name refers to a 15th century saying 'staying with the monkey'. If lodgers couldn't pay the bill, the landlord would let seafarers settle up by paying for their stay with the monkeys they brought back from their voyages. The animals were full of fleas and if people saw anyone scratching themselves on the Zeedijk, they would say 'he's been staying at the Aap’. zeedijk 1, www.cafeintaepjen.nl, phone 020 6268401, open sun-thurs 12.001.00, fri-sat 15.00-3.00, price € 3, trams 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 16, 17, 24, 25 centraal station 2

The Indian chef has over thirty years experience in traditional Northern Indian cuisine, so everyone who visits Ganesha can enjoy a wonderful meal at a reasonable price. Some dishes are hot, of course, but there are milder choices, too. A drink of divine mango-lassi will soon cool down the hottest curry. geldersekade 5, www.ganesharestaurant.nl, phone 020 3207302, open monsun 17.00-23.00, price € 13.50, trams 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 16, 17, 24, 25 centraal station 3

Café Captein & Co is in a lovely part of Amsterdam. The outdoor seating area has a wonderful view of the Oude Waal and the Montelbaan Tower. It's perfect for a glass of beer with little meat croquetttes, not to mention a hearty salad or other main dish. binnen bantammerstraat 27, phone 020 6278804, open daily 12.00-1.00, price € 12.50, trams 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 16, 17, 24, 25, 26 centraal station, metro 51, 53, 54 nieuwmarkt 4

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In Hemelse Modder they think very carefully about where the produce on the menu comes from. They use lots of local produce and 'good' fish and organic meat. Don't miss the Hemelse Modder dessert. You've never tasted such a heavenly chocolate mousse: a 100% 'fair trade' dessert, of course. oude waal 11, www.hemelsemodder.nl, phone 020 6243203, open daily from 18.00, price â‚Ź 29.50, trams 1, 2, 4 ,5, 9, 13, 16, 17, 24, 25, 26 centraal station 5

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Nam Kee featured in Kees van Beijnum's book 'Nam Kee's oysters', and the film starring Katja Schuurman. Nam Kee means good quality, reasonably priced and authentic Chinese food under its rather harsh lights. zeedijk 111, www.namkee.nl, phone 020 6243470, open daily 12.00-23.00, price € 12, trams 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 16, 17, 24, 25, 26 centraal station, metro 51, 53, 54 nieuwmarkt 7

You'd expect to find Latei in the Pijp or the Jordaan, not in the red light district. You will get an excellent cup of coffee, and it's a great place to find curiosa from the 1960s and 1970s. Everything is for sale, even your chair. zeedijk 143, www.latei.net, phone 020 6257485, open mon-wed 8.00-18.00, thurs-fri 8.00-22.00, sat 9.00-22.00, sun 11.00-18.00, price € 4, trams 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 16, 17, 24, 25 centraal station, metro 51, 53, 54 nieuwmarkt 8

A-Fusion has an extensive menu – all kinds of food with an Oriental flavour. Their specialities are dishes from the Foochow region, where the owner's family comes from, but don't forget to try the sushi, it's fabulous.

Restaurant critic Johannes Van Dam gave it a 9+ out of 10. zeedijk 130, www.a-fusion.nl, phone 020 3304068, open daily 12.00-23.00, price € 13, trams 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 16, 17, 24, 25, 26 centraal station, metro 51, 53, 54 nieuwmarkt 9

Café Bern was set up by a nuclear physicist from Switzerland who wanted to start a new life in Holland. You'll find the best cheese fondue in the city here. Don't miss the entrecote, which you cook yourself at the table. nieuwmarkt 3, phone 020 6274919, open sun-thurs 12.00-1.00, fri-sat 12.003.00, price € 18, trams 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 16, 17, 24, 25, 26 centraal station, metro 51, 53, 54 nieuwmarkt 10

Café 't Loosje is a no-nonsense brown café where you can enjoy a beer without any hoo-ha. The (heated) outdoor area is always packed with locals.

You can also order breakfast and lunch. nieuwmarkt 32-34, phone 020 6272635, open weekdays 11.00-1.00, sat-sun 11.00-3.00 (kitchen open 11.00-17.00), price € 2, trams 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 16, 17, 24, 25, 26 centraal station, metro 51, 53, 54 nieuwmarkt 11

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Originally, De Engelbewaarder was a literary café. Now it looks more like a Belgian cafe with many draught beers. There is live jazz every Sunday afternoon from 16.30 - what could be more perfect with your afternoon drinks? Stay for something to eat, because like all genuine Belgian cafés, they serve delicious, reasonably priced food. kloveniersburgwal 59, www.cafe-de-engelbewaarder.nl, phone 020 6253772, open sun-thurs 11.00-1.00, fri-sat 11.00-3.00, price € 3, trams 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 16, 17, 24, 25, 26 centraal station, metro 51, 53, 54 nieuwmarkt 13

Grand Café de Jaren is one of the largest cafés in Amsterdam. In its light and airy room you can enjoy your daily coffee and read the paper. In the evening it's perfect for a drink or for a snack. The waterside seated area is almost always packed. The al fresco area on the first floor has a wonderful view over the city centre. nieuwe doelenstraat 20, www.cafedejaren.nl, phone 020 6255771, open thurs-sun 9.30-1.00, fri-sat 9.30-2.00, price € 3, trams 4, 9, 16, 24, 25 muntplein 18

At Het Houten Huisje you can enjoy Belgian organic chips with homemade tartar sauce or an organic croquette. Scrumptious snacks are served in this tiny snackbar. nieuwezijds voorburgwal 289, www.morning-star.eu, phone 020 6256542, open mon-wed 11.00-18.00, thurs 11.00-20.00, fri-sat 11.00-1.00, sun 12.0018.00 (stays open longer in nice weather), price € 3, trams 1, 2, 5 spui, trams 4, 9, 14, 16, 24, 25 rokin 23

At the end of an evening in the ’t Sluisje transvestite café you will either be draped over the bar or dancing on the table. You will be served a threecourse meal and enjoy a transvestite show. Keep your eye on those waitresses because they do love their little jokes. Make sure to get there early as it soon fills up, but then you can carry on dancing till the wee small hours. torensteeg 1, www.sluisje.nl, phone 020 6240813, open thurs & sun from 19.00, fri-sat 18.00-20.30 or from 21.00, closing times vary, price € 45, trams 1, 5, 17 dam / raadhuisstraat 27

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Their drinking chocolade makes you think of that film 'Chocolat'. The Metropolitan Deli is a very dangerous place for chocoholics. They really do make everything with chocolate. You should try their fresh-made, traditional Italian ice creams. They also organise tasting sessions. warmoesstraat 135, www.metropolitandeli.nl, phone 020 3301955, open mon-thurs 9.00-22.00, fri 9.00-23.00, sat 10.00-23.00, sun 10.00-21.00 (in summer, one hour longer every day), price â‚Ź 2, trams 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 14, 16, 17, 24, 25 dam 31

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Shopping The End has a huge collection of vintage boots, pumps and clothing. We all know that 'Vintage' is just a trendy name for second-hand clothes, and because it's trendy, it's no longer cheap. Even so, you have to go for it to complete that vintage look. nieuwe hoogstraat 26, phone 020 6253162, open mon 12.00-18.00, tues-wed & fri-sat 11.00-18.00, thurs 11.00-21.00, sun 13.00-18.00, metro 51, 53, 54 nieuwmarkt 12

Just behind the Town Hall and the Music Theatre, you'll find the Waterlooplein with over three hundred stalls selling mostly second-hand goods. You'll often hear it said ‘If you can't find it here, you won't find it anywhere’. It isn't all that cheap these days but the Waterlooplein is still fun. waterlooplein, www.waterloopleinmarkt.nl, open mon-sat 10.00-17.00, trams 9, 14, metro 51, 53, 54 waterlooplein 15

Puccini is where you'll find dangerously delicious chocolates, or rather 'bonboni’. Try the traditional bonbons with caramel or marzipan, or be a devil and go for lemon grass or pepper. staalstraat 17, www.puccinibomboni.com, phone 020 6265474, open sunmon 12.00-18.00, tues-sat 9.00-18.00, trams 4, 9, 14, 16, 24, 25 muntplein 16

Dutch design has conquered the world and Droog Design has played a huge role in making this happen. In the shop/showroom you'll find worldfamous Dutch design to suit every purse. staastraat 7b, www.droog.com, phone 020 5235059, open tues-sat 12.0018.00, trams 4, 9, 14, 16, 24, 25 muntplein 17

Open Shop sells clothing by young Dutch designers. Here they can hire a clothes rack to display their latest creations, so they can get direct feedback from the shopping public. The 'Your husband called; you can buy whatever you like' linen shopping bags give shopaholics free rein. nieuwezijds voorburgwal 291, www.openshopamsterdam.com, phone 020 5286963, open fri-wed 12.00-19.00, thurs 12.00-21.00, trams 1, 2, 5, 13, 17 dam 24

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OPEN SHOP

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SPR Specials is the SPRMRKT outlet on the Rozengracht. A second chance to get the most fabulous goods at lower prices. They change the collection every four to six months. All the best stuff for ladies and gentlemen, including lables such as Acne, Damir Doma and 7d. nieuwezijds voorburgwal 262, www.sprmrkt.nl, open mon-wed 11.00-18.00, thurs 12.00-20.00, fri-sat 10.00-18.00, sun 12.00-18.00, trams 1, 2, 5, 13, 17 dam 25

Anyone who is a fan of all things Japanese simply shouldn't miss 't Japanse winkeltje. The shop was renovated in March 2010, emphasising the subtle beauty of Japanese design: ceramics, hand-made paper, kimonos, lamps and books, all in simple and ascetic designs. nieuwezijds voorburgwal 177, www.japansewinkeltje.nl, phone 020 6279523, open tues-sat 10.00-18.00, trams 1, 2, 5, 13,17 dam 26

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Fun things to do It might look like a rather ordinary and uninteresting road, but De Nes is actually Amsterdam's premier theatre street. With Frascati as its oldest theatre, and the Engelenbak, Comedy Theater, the Brakke Grond and the Parooltheater it transforms into a dazzling affair especially in the evenings and on Sunday afternoons. You should take a walk to the Gebed zonder End, an alley that is still reminiscent of the many cloisters that existed in the city in the Middle Ages. nes, trams 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 14, 16, 17, 24, 25 dam 20

W139 in the Warmoesstraat is (inter)nationally renowned for its exhibitions and as a sanctuary for sculptors. In other words it's a place where artists can experiment. They also organise regular dance performances, parties, concerts and other activities, so come on in and be amazed by the contemporary art projects in this industrial-style gallery. warmoesstraat 139, www.w139.nl, phone 020 6229434, open mon-sat 11.0019.00, free entrance, trams 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 14, 16, 17, 24, 25 dam 30

You'll find the Brouwerij de Prael in the street that used to be the Bierkade. You'll have fun with the guided tour, then you can relax at the bar and try one of the beers named after some famous singers of Dutch love songs. You could order a Johnny, Heintje or a Willeke. The tasting room also serves as a rehabilitation centre for people with psychiatric problems. oudezijds voorburgwal 30, www.deprael.nl, phone 020 4084470, open mon 10.00-17.00, tues-wed & fri 10.00-18.00, thurs 10.00-21.00, sat 12.00-17.00, sun 12.00-18.00, guided tour € 7.50, tasting € 10, guided tour & tasting € 16.50, trams 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 17, 24, 25 centraal station 34

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W139

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City Centre W A L K

1

WALK 2

(approx. 6km )

From the Centraal Station walk towards the Prins Hendrikkade for a 'slow food' lunch 1 and have a beer in the oldest pub 2 . Walk up the Geldersekade 3 .

Turn left into the Waalsteeg, then left for a beer 4 and the perfect chocolate mousse 5 . Turn right into the Montelbaanstraat and when you get to the Recht Boomsloot turn right again towards the Geldersekade. Turn right in the Geldersekade, go across the first bridge on the left, take the second left onto Zeedijk and you'll be in a Buddhist world 6 . Guzzle oysters 7 , enjoy a coffee and piece of cake 8 or try the Asian cuisine 9 . Walk around the Nieuwmarkt and find the oldest brown pub and the best cheese fondue 10 11 . Walk along the canal and turn left into Kooveniersburgwal. Shop in the Nieuwe Hoogstraat 12 .

Have a Belgian beer or a snack 13 . Turn left onto Raamgracht and keep bearing left until the end. When you get to the apartment block, walk through the passageway into the Sint Antoniebreestraat. The Jodenbreestraat was Rembrandt 's neighbourhood 14 . Walk across the Waterlooplein 15 past the Town Hall. Go across the bridge over the Amstel into Staalstraat for some super little shops 16 17 . Go left into the Nieuwe Doelenstraat 18 and turn round. Walk past the university and turn left into the Oudemanhuispoort 19 . Keep going to the Oudezijds Achterburgwal. Turn left then immediately right over the bridge and then bear right through the Nes 20 , a street with lots of theatres. Cross over the Rokin, walk along the Spui, turn right and go through the gateway to discover a haven of peace in the Begijnhof 21 .Turn left into the quiet Begijnensloot, then if you walk through the inner court of the Amsterdam Museum 22 , you'll find a couple of unusual little clothing shops 23 24 25 26 . Stroll along to the Molsteeg 27 and then walk back to get to the Dam for some culture and architecture 28 29 . Go left across the Damrak and spend a little time at the monument, then turn left into the Warmoesstraat 30 31 . Turn right into the Sint Annenstraat, then first left into the Sint Annendwarsstraat till you get to the Oudekerkseplein to go to an exhibition or a special concert 32 . Keep going left on the Oudezijds Voorburgwal 33 34 . Walk as far as the Armbrug, then when you get to the Warmoesstraat turn left then right, and take a moment to admire the works of one of Amsterdam's greatest architects 35 .

WALK 2

WALK 6

WALK 1

WALK 6

WALK 5

= places of interest = food and drink = shopping = fun things to do

WALK 3

WALK 5

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City Centre W A L K

1

WALK 2

(approx. 6km )

From the Centraal Station walk towards the Prins Hendrikkade for a 'slow food' lunch 1 and have a beer in the oldest pub 2 . Walk up the Geldersekade 3 .

Turn left into the Waalsteeg, then left for a beer 4 and the perfect chocolate mousse 5 . Turn right into the Montelbaanstraat and when you get to the Recht Boomsloot turn right again towards the Geldersekade. Turn right in the Geldersekade, go across the first bridge on the left, take the second left onto Zeedijk and you'll be in a Buddhist world 6 . Guzzle oysters 7 , enjoy a coffee and piece of cake 8 or try the Asian cuisine 9 . Walk around the Nieuwmarkt and find the oldest brown pub and the best cheese fondue 10 11 . Walk along the canal and turn left into Kooveniersburgwal. Shop in the Nieuwe Hoogstraat 12 .

Have a Belgian beer or a snack 13 . Turn left onto Raamgracht and keep bearing left until the end. When you get to the apartment block, walk through the passageway into the Sint Antoniebreestraat. The Jodenbreestraat was Rembrandt 's neighbourhood 14 . Walk across the Waterlooplein 15 past the Town Hall. Go across the bridge over the Amstel into Staalstraat for some super little shops 16 17 . Go left into the Nieuwe Doelenstraat 18 and turn round. Walk past the university and turn left into the Oudemanhuispoort 19 . Keep going to the Oudezijds Achterburgwal. Turn left then immediately right over the bridge and then bear right through the Nes 20 , a street with lots of theatres. Cross over the Rokin, walk along the Spui, turn right and go through the gateway to discover a haven of peace in the Begijnhof 21 .Turn left into the quiet Begijnensloot, then if you walk through the inner court of the Amsterdam Museum 22 , you'll find a couple of unusual little clothing shops 23 24 25 26 . Stroll along to the Molsteeg 27 and then walk back to get to the Dam for some culture and architecture 28 29 . Go left across the Damrak and spend a little time at the monument, then turn left into the Warmoesstraat 30 31 . Turn right into the Sint Annenstraat, then first left into the Sint Annendwarsstraat till you get to the Oudekerkseplein to go to an exhibition or a special concert 32 . Keep going left on the Oudezijds Voorburgwal 33 34 . Walk as far as the Armbrug, then when you get to the Warmoesstraat turn left then right, and take a moment to admire the works of one of Amsterdam's greatest architects 35 .

WALK 2

WALK 6

WALK 1

WALK 6

WALK 5

= places of interest = food and drink = shopping = fun things to do

WALK 3

WALK 5

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