October 2010-10 Magazine

Art • Theater • Concerts • Film • Community • Fitness • Dine & Drink • Nightlife • TRAVEL

Korea awaits! • OCTOber 2010 VOL. 3 NO. 1

외국인의 한국생활 노하우

Fly High Dive Deep

Tons of fun events in our nationwide calendar!

Printed using 100% soy ink.

Shot by jaso n te a le

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Reader’s 10: Your Favorite Drinking Establishment

Shot by sy lv i a K im

You’re not going to believe who won this.

Hint: it’s not in Seoul.

08 Antique Furniture

Tips for finding authentic antique treasures.

14 Bibimbap

A refresher course on the what and why of mixed rice.

18 Gyeongdong Market

Ginseng, roots, antlers, and more at this Oriental medicine market.

22 Nagasaki: Gateway to Korea’s Past To understand early Korean-Western relations, start at Nagasaki.

51 Acoustic Showdown

Break out the guitar and dust off the fiddle for this RMT competition.

OCTOBER 2010 vol. 3 No. 1

24 Diving in Jeju Island Most travelers to Jeju stick to dry land, but the greatest adventure on the island lies just below the surface.

Shot by lisa s mith

By P e t e r D e M a r c o

28 Learning to Fly Take to the sky in a recreational aircraft to see Korea’s beauty from above.

By M a l c o l m W r e s t

42 Korean Manhwa Top picks for Korean comics (manhwa) in translation.

44 Hwadong Bistro American-style hamburger steak just off Garosu-gil.

52 Global Gathering Three incredible headliners at Korea’s second Global Gathering.

60 Jarasum Jazz Festival One small island, tons of sizzling-hot jazz tunes.

64 Dalmaji Hill Artsy cafes and ambling trails on the hill just next to Haeundae in Busan.

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Garden of Morning Calm The leaves may change, but not the beauty of this Gyeonggi Province garden.

Rufus Wainwright in Concert: p.50

FROM THE EDITOR

Vol. 3, No. 1: Unbelievable

T

hank you for helping make 10 the most popular English monthly in Korea in only 2 years! Last month I talked about where 10 has been. This month let me tell you a little bit about where we’re going.

I hear it all the time: “He’s crazy for starting a print magazine now. The world’s going online.”

While to some extent that may be true, there’s still no substitute for the anticipation of turning a page. Scrolling just doesn’t quite do it. Nonetheless, we know that our online content is key and we’ve been building our presence in cyberspace slowly but surely - and you can count on us to keep growing and improving - with your help!

Daily you can see new articles from each month’s magazine uploaded with the exception of the Calendar (we gotta encourage subscriptions somehow, don’t we?).

With almost 5,000 page views daily, we’ve now got one of the most popular English sites in Korea. Our “Weekly 10” email, which provides the best 10 events each week, has become hugely popular with our readers. And we love our 3,500 “likers” on Facebook. Be sure to “like” us if you want to keep up on the hottest new events, including those that came up too late to make the magazine.

But we also know that from Linux to Wikipedia, it’s the users who add the value. Each and every comment you put up on our site make our articles more valuable. Okay, maybe not the spam and the incessant complainers, but the vast majority of the comments add helpful information. That’s why we want to reward you for it.

The most recent addition to our site is the new point system that rewards you for both checking in and for commenting. Every day that you visit our website and check in, you get 25 points, and when you comment you get 10 points. Those points can be redeemed for everything from concert tickets to restaurant gift certificates to stays at luxury hotels. It’s just one more way we encourage you to help make 10 the go-to website for information on what to do in Korea. Register and start collecting your points today at 10magazine.asia.

S t e p h e n R e v e r e , M anaging E ditor

A Shot of Korean by Stephen Revere

Hongeo restaurant alley at Yeongeungpo, Seoul Shot by Matthew Crawford

먹자골목 [meok-ja-gol-mok] restaurant alley It’s actually just a few words I’m teaching here. 먹다 (meok-da) is of course “to eat” and one of the first verbs you’ll ever learn if you study Korean.

If you drop the “다” and add a “자” on the end of it, you get “Let’s eat!” The word 골목 (gol-mok) means “alley.” So what’s a 먹자골목? It’s an alley or street lined with restaurants, and usually you can count on a 먹자골목 to provide you with an abundance of terrific places to experience Korean food. 먹자골목에 가자. [Meok-ja-gol-mok-e ga-ja] Let’s go to restaurant alley.

Check out Survival Korean and Survival Korean: Basic Grammar Skills for more Korean lessons from 10’s Managing Editor, Stephen Revere.

Subscribe today for over 30% off the cover price!

W29,000 for a year • W15,000 for 6 months subscribe@10magazine.asia, 02-3447-1610, www.10magazine.asia

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10 Magazine October 2010

CEO

Sang-tae Kim sangtaekim@10magazine.asia

Executive Editor

Jai-yoon Kim jaiyoonkim@10magazine.asia Stephen Revere sr@10magazine.asia David Carruth dc@10magazine.asia

Managing Editor Assistant Editor Contributors

Tracie Barret, Michael Berry Adam Boothe, Rhys Brindle Gregory Curley, Peter DeMarco Ralf Deutsch, Samantha Dix-Hill Jean Han, Ciaran Hickey Sylvia Kim, Song Lee, Mike Luedke, Stafford Lumsden Paul Matthews Charles Montgomery Robert Neff, Inae Oh Anna Orzel, Rob Ouwehand Sebastien Rousset Hughie Samson, Stacey Siebritz Lisa Smith Hannah Stuart-Leach Grace Sun, Julianne Taylor Armin Truttnau, Malcolm Wrest Lisa Xing, Charity Yoro

General Manager

Kyoung-hee Lim kl@10magazine.asia

Art Director

Hugh Lee hlee@10magazine.asia

Marketing Inquiries Calendar Events Contribute Questions/Comments Subscriptions

marketing@10magazine.asia calendar@10magazine.asia contribute@10magazine.asia comments@10magazine.asia subscribe@10magazine.asia

Print

Tara TPS. Co., Ltd We humans may not have wings or gills, but that doesn’t kill the dream of soaring through the blue above like a hawk or cruising the blue below like a marlin. This month’s cover image shows you two thrills to be had in the sky and sea: recreational flying and scuba diving. Flip to p. 24 to get ready for your next Korean adventure.

Please Recycle This Magazine 10 Magazine OcTOBER Vol. 3 No. 1 등록번호 서울 라 12065 (Registration: Seoul Ra 12065) ©10 Media Inc. Address 서울시 강남구 논현동 10-21 10-21 Nonhyeon-dong Gangnam-gu Seoul 135-010 Phone 02-3447-1610 www.10magazine.asia 10 Magazine is published monthly by 10 Media Inc. All Rights Reserved.

CONTRIBUTORS Charles Montgomery (p. 16, 42, 59) works at Dongguk University, where, at the request of students, staff and other faculty, he is usually locked in his office. A believer in unicorns, fan death, and the possibility of a balanced budget, his “never say die” attitude makes him extremely unpopular at funerals. His website is ktlit.com and he wants you to visit it.

Sebastien Rousset (p. 52) is a Britturned-Aussie who has found his way back to Seoul after spending a semester in Korea as an exchange student in 2008. An elementary school teacher by day, come night this club fiend heads to one of Seoul’s countless clubs to reenact the Hokey Pokey he lovingly taught in class earlier.

Julianne Taylor (p. 8) moved to Seoul in 2009 after living in China, Spain, and Australia. As an interior designer, she helps others make their homes “feel like home.” When she’s not finding ways for folks to spend their money, she enjoys whipping up southern USA treats for a taste of home. Julianne stays connected to Seoul’s diverse expat community and assists local Korean charities through her work as the President of the American Women’s Club. designstaylormade.com Malcolm Wrest (p. 28) is in the eleventh year of his temporary stay in Korea, and perhaps consequentially is now “a wife, two children and three dogs” further down the track of life. Hailing from Melbourne, Australia, he enjoys a variety of outdoor pursuits and would rate the time he has spent in Korea as some of his happiest years to date.

Charity Yoro (p. 63) is a full-time wanderer currently teaching in Wonju to support her consuming (and expensive) addiction to world travel.

She considers natural lighting, alliteration, world peace, and laugh lines her life passions. Follow her wondering wandering at gypcee.tumblr.com.

10 Magazine October 2010

LETTERS I am an Indian engineer from United Arab Emirates here for some temporary business with an engineering company in Seoul. During my stay I got an opportunity to read 10 Magazine. As a foreigner who finds difficulties in communication with Korean people, your magazine is really a boon. Your magazine covers all the information which a foreigner would like to know. The contact details of immigration, tourism, airlines, etc. are very much handy and I feel that I am part of Korea.

The information you give for the events, concerts, restaurants, film, conferences etc. are very much useful. Your article, “A Moment of Calm in Cambodia” was superb. It gave me an opportunity to learn about Cambodia’s culture, tourist attractions etc. As I am a pure vegetarian, I find no hotels which serve vegetarian food only. Even if there is a vegetarian dish, the waitress doesn’t know English language to answer whether the particular dish is vegetarian or not. Many times, this made me skip my dinner and manage with fruit only. But the article on cold noodles for “A Taste of Korea” gave me consolation. The scenic beauty of the Han River tempted me to visit, which I will do this weekend.

In short, your magazine is superb and I hope I get an opportunity to read all your forthcoming issues as well. It helps me to know more about Korean people, Korean culture and their hospitality.

B. Ganesan, Seoul Thanks so much! That’s exactly what we’re here for, and we’re ecstatic when we hear that we’ve accomplished our job.

Feel free to request specific articles of us in future emails!

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* * * I really love the magazine and I’ve noticed that lately you’ve been including more things to do outside of the Seoul area, which is great for me, as I live in South Gyeongsang Province. I’ve been in Korea long enough to get tired of going out to the bar every weekend and have seen all the really “famous” tourist attractions, so I rely on the mag to find new and interesting attractions and events. It’s also really great to get a fun, colorful, ENGLISH magazine every month in my mailbox. I’d definitely recommend it to any expat in Korea.

Jolene McConnell, Miryang Thanks Jolene! We love the praise. Keep it coming. It’s wonderful.

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N

ow that we’ve published some praise, however, we’re ready for some helpful critiques next month. Be concrete in your recommendations for us! What article did you think was over the top? Which article didn’t give you the information you needed? What would you like to see more of in the magazine? Come on, we can take it. Our skin is thick enough for a little constructive criticism. comments@10magazine.asia

Send Us a Letter, and You Could Win W15,000 in Whole Bean Coffee from Caribou Coffee

Blog of the Month

Eat Your Kimchi eatyourkimchi.com

If you’re new to Korea, you may need a little coaching on the simple things things like how to enjoy food at the street stalls, what the appeal of K-pop is, and what these Starcraft competitions on TV are all about. For a fun look at life in Korea and the exotic things you may find upon arrival, this issue’s blog of the month supplies plenty of interesting videos. Learn the intricacies of purchasing Korean custom-made fashions and convenience store patio dining from fun and quirky English teachers Simon and Martina. From their home base in the Seoul suburb of Bucheon, they put a ton of work into their videos, which provide a wealth of information to newcomers while also highlighting the lighter side of the country too - things like car greeters (yup, they’ve got ‘em here) and sticker photo booths.

Korea by the Numbers

3,000,000*

The estimated number of people addicted to gambling in Korea.

How to Win Free whole bean Coffee from Caribou Coffee

Overhe ard “It is undeniable that small businesses do not thrive because of big conglomerates."

President Lee Myung-bak At a meeting with major business leaders on September 14th, 2010

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1. Type up a paragraph sharing your thoughts about 10 Magazine.

Tell us what you think of the October issue, and especially about the events you learned about from 10!

2. Email your letter to comments@10magazine.asia by October 15th.

3. Excerpts from 2-3 letters will run in the November magazine. If you're chosen you will be sent 227 grams of whole bean coffee (W15,000 value) from Caribou Coffee by early December.

10 Magazine October 2010

6.1* 13

Percentage of Koreans addicted to gambling according to the National Gaming Control Commission. The comparable number is 1.9% in the UK, 1.7% in Canada and 2.55% in Australia.

The number of casinos in Korea.

The number of casinos Koreans can visit.

Kangwon Land in Gangwon Province is the only casino that Koreans are legally allowed to visit. *Source: The Korea Herald koreaherald.com

THE READER'S 10

What’s Your Favorite Drinking Establishment in Korea?

Shot by Jaso n Te a le at Benchwarmers, Ulsan

Y

eah, it’s a popularity contest. That’s exactly what the Reader’s 10 is all about—finding out what is the most popular among our readers. This month we found out that the bar with the most enthusiastic fans in Korea happens to be a legendary expat hangout in Ulsan. Who knew?

Here are your 10 favorite bars, pubs and lounges in Korea:

10. Sam Ryan's (Itaewon, Seoul) 9. Roofers (Itaewon, Seoul) 8. Wolfhound (Itaewon, Seoul) 7. LSG (Yeosu) 6. Holy Grill (downtown Daegu) 5. Traveler's Bar (Bundang, Seongnam) 4. Speakeasy (downtown Gwangju) 3. Beer O'Clock (Sinchon, Seoul) 2. Dillinger's (Itaewon, Seoul) 1. Benchwarmers (Ulsan) And our popularity contest for next month?

You’ve probably heard all about the government’s plan to popularize Korean food worldwide, and while we’re not sure you can force-feed Korean food to the rest of the world, we are sure that Korea boasts some incredible cuisine. Hence, we decided that we should give the Korean government a little help.

Sure, it’s a little bit obvious, but we have to ask:

W h at’s you r favor ite Kor ea n food?

We’re taking nominations for your favorite Korean food now online in our open thread at 10magazine.asia/favoritefood. We’ll take the results of that open thread and plug it into an online poll where you can go and vote for your favorites from Monday, October 4th to Sunday, October 10th (10.10.10!).

10 Magazine October 2010

style

Korean Furniture Motifs Uncovering the Hidden Meaning

Antique hunters can arm themselves with these useful tips before setting out in search of that perfect piece to add to their collection.

W o r d s b y J ul i a n n e T ayl o r , s h o t s b y S yl v i a K i m

W

estern eyes twinkle with delight at the beautiful Asianinspired furniture they see in the windows of local shops. The distressed finishes, hand-painted scenes and beautiful wood-carving details beckon you into the store.

Shoppers are hit with words and phrases like “Xing Dynasty,” “Mongolia,” and “It’s an antique,” and before you know it you’re asking them if they take credit cards and adding that, oh, by the way, you’ll take the life-sized clay warrior, too. What does all this furniture jargon mean, anyway?

How to Go Antique Shopping in Korea

Furniture shopping for expats all over the world can be somewhat of a daunting task, and the same can be said in Korea. The time spent exploring and finding just the right piece alone can be overwhelming, but you also have the challenge of a language barrier.

Understanding the local culture and customs can ease your shopping experience here in Seoul. There are no laws in Korea defining what is or isn’t an antique. With fewer and fewer original pieces left in Korea and the stiff competition, it is important that a relationship of trust be established between the buyer and the

8 10 Magazine October 2010

dealer. Most dealers will do their best to source a particular piece for a customer.

Typically an “antique” in Korea is any furniture that is more than seventy to eighty years old. A reproduction is a piece of furniture that is made using new wood, but aged and distressed to look like an antique. Buyers must be careful when buying reproduction pieces—especially here in Seoul with the harsh, dry winters. The first signs of cracking will send you running to the store to purchase humidifiers. On the contrary, the worn, weathered wood of authentic antiques will ride out the dry and humid seasons of Seoul beautifully. It’s a trade-off, and the prices of both types of furniture reflect that.

Common Traits of Korean Furniture

There are distinct characteristics of Korean furniture that differentiate it from other Asian style pieces. Korean carpenters historically focused on the beauty of the wood grain, versus a lacquered or painted finish. A beautiful sheen was achieved through a process of applying different seed oils and polishing the surface to accentuate the grain of the wood. Similar to the Chinese crafts-

men, Korean carpenters prided themselves on the use of durable joinery, such as the mortise and tenon joint. Unique to Korean antiques is the use of bamboo nails to reinforce joints—a missing component in many reproduction pieces.

Furniture adornments and motifs found on Korean furniture are often symbolic. Cranes symbolize longevity and are a very popular decoration on furniture and ceramics in Korea. Other common symbols of longevity include the cypress, pine tree, deer, plum, and chrysanthemum. Fish stand for wealth, while clouds represent good fortune and happiness. The butterfly is the emblem of joy and affection between a husband and wife; therefore, it is a common symbol found on women’s furniture items such as small chests and wardrobes.

Typically Korean furniture is smaller than furniture of other Asian countries. Land is at a premium in Korea, and the furniture reflects that. Smaller homes equal smaller furniture. Unlike the large chests and wardrobes you find in China and Indonesia, Korean furniture stores are full of charming little medicine chests, and trunks in beautiful dark wood finishes and lots of brass hardware. These mix wonderfully with both Western furniture styles and painted pieces from other Asian countries.

Shopping Destinations for the Furniture Sleuth

Incorporating one or more Asian-style pieces into what you already own can enhance the ambiance of your interior living space and provide years of memories about your time living in Asia. Shopping for Asian furniture should feel like a treat instead of a task. Finding furniture stores that have a friendly staff and English-speaking owners is key to an enjoyable furniture-shopping experience. Read on to find my favorite Englishspeaking vendors.

Dae Boo Antiques Owner Jin Kang has a treasure trove of antique and reproduction furniture and accessories from all parts of Asia and Indonesia and a large friendly dog to greet you at the front door. Many unique and hard to find items can be found here.

737-23 Hannam-Dong (off Itaewon Street), Yongsan-gu.

Open 10 am - 6:30 pm. 02-797-6787 Kojeon Antique This store is more like a large warehouse that holds antique and reproduction Korean, Chinese and Tibetan-style furniture and accessories. Many large and hand-painted pieces can be found here. Be prepared for a day trip as this warehouse is about 1.5 hours outside of Seoul. Owner Agnes Lee makes you a delicious authentic Korean lunch when you arrive and offers free furniture delivery to Seoul. Shuttle service is available for larger groups.

361 Hwasan-ri, Idong-Myeon, Cheoin-gu, Yongin-si, Gyeonggi-do.

Open every day, but best to make an appointment.

031-335-8851 Koreana Antique and Folk Craft Two floors chock-full of Korean, Chinese and Tibetan style furniture. Owner Symon Jeonn is particularly knowledgeable about authentic Korean style furniture and has a welcoming smile for all visitors to his store.

736-8, Hannam-Dong (Itaewon Street), Seoul.

Open 9 am - 7 pm (closed Tuesdays). 02-790-6641 Oriental Mood Owner Mi Sung has a delightful store filled with beautiful accessories, furniture and gifts from all parts of Asia.

She also offers highquality custom soft goods (such as bedding, pillows, and draperies) and 5-star customer service.

2nd Floor Vision Tower, 96-5, Banpo 4 Dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul.

Open 10:30 am - 9 pm.

02-536-5280 10 Magazine October 2010

Advertorial

Delicious Beef Restaurant Chains Shinseon Seollongtang & Kraze Burger

Sometimes the best and safest way to try something new in Korea is to go to a well-established chain that serves delicious and popular food. We’ve picked out two of the best options for you in the form of Korean beef stock soup and quality beef burgers. How could you possibly go wrong with these options?

Shinseon Seolnongtang

A 24-hour Korean restaurant serving seolleongtang (traditional beef stock soup), this 30-year-old franchise runs 33 stores around the Seoul area, serving steaming bowls of soup brewed with Australian beef.

Always up to date, Shinseon Seolnongtang has invented healthy, tasty options inspired by the traditional Korean beef stock soup to target choosey young customers and Westerners.

W h at t o o r d e r

While the original “Shinseon Seolnongtang” (신선 설농탕) comes only with brisket, customers can choose from a variety of other specialty soups ser ved with a combination of tendon, brisket and ox bone, vegetables, tofu and dumplings, or garlic and Shinseon Seolnongtang wild ginseng.

The creamy white broth is virtually salt-free, so feel free to season with salt, pepper or hot pepper sauce. The beef and tendon are so soft that they melt in your mouth.

The “Baekse Seolnongtang” (백세 설농 탕: hundred-year beef stock soup) is a specialty soup that comes with rich Korean traditional herbs, including ginseng, licorice, Korean dates, chestnuts and antlers.

Other beef dishes to order are the “Modeum Suyuk” (모듬 수육), which Baekse Seolnongtang is a beef and vegetable dish with a special dipping sauce, or the iconic “Galbi Jjim” (갈비찜), which are beef short ribs. An English menu is available, and friendly staff are always at your service. If you’ve never tried seolleongtang before, now’s your chance.

Kraze Burger

You’ve probably seen a Kraze Burger at some point during your stay in Korea, as this popular burger joint is a little hard to miss. With 52 stores in the Seoul capital area, the burger franchise opened its first store in 1998 in Apgujeong and has become one of the fastest-growing and most popular burger joints in the country, with branches also open in Macau and Hong Kong.

W h at t o o r d e r

You can’t go wrong with the “K.B Original,” which is the traditional beef burger with all the trimmings and special tomatobased Kraze sauce. For something extra, try the “K.B++” with bacon and egg or the “Maximum Burger,” which has bacon and a combination of BBQ and red hot sauce, giving it a smoky, bold texture not found in the original burger.

For those who really want something different, we highly recommend the “K.O Burger.” This is a special one indeed, served on a wheat bun with chilli balsamic sauce, special salad and fried jalapenos. A touch above the rest, this is the stand-out burger that tastes less like a burger.

A selection of fresh salads is also available, and of course, don’t forget your chilli cheese fries. Made with thick-cut fries, chedder cheese, delicious ground beef, chopped onions and just a touch of chilli - you haven’t lived until you try these.

All menus are in English, and you’ll find a good selection of sodas, juice “ades,” and international beers to quench your thirst.

Go on, get Kraze!

K.B ++ Burger

K.O. Burger

Modeum Suyuk

Located in and around Seoul, including branches at Myeongdong, Sinchon, Ilsan and Suwon. sinsunfood.co.kr/guide Directions to Apgujeong store (Line 3): Take exit 2 and walk straight a few meters. You will see the sign for 신선설농탕 on your left, just before you hit exit 3.

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Chilli Cheese Fries

Located all across Seoul, check website for details kraze.co.kr

Itaewon is hoppin’!!! ...and Kobeak is there.

Monday Dry Rib Night

Like Lan Kwai Fung in Hong Kong, Itaewon is becoming the place to eat in Seoul.

From the Canadian Rockies to New York and then on to Ireland and Austria, authentic foods prepared by authentic hands. The concern for quality is never ending in these fine establishments and is why they all choose Kobeak Foods as their meat supplier. We directly import the finest meats from around the world.

Kobeak Foods® is an Australian joint venture company specializing in supply to restaurants concerned with safe, high quality meat products from around the world. We carry all varieties of meats–beef, pork, poultry, lamb, venison, sausages, hamburgers and much more. Look for the "Kobeak Foods" mark at your favorite restaurant to ensure you are getting the best and safest quality products available.

3F, 59-11, Kuui-dong, Kwangjin-ku, Seoul, Korea | Tel; 02-454-3435 | Fax; 02-458-1302

IN THE KITCHEN Extensive travel abroad and an intense passion for food are the foundation of Chef Kim’s work as chief chef at the Ritz.

C

hef Soon-gi Kim is a very busy man. Head chef of the Ritz-Carlton Seoul since 1995, Chef Kim is responsible for four restaurants (The Garden, Chee Hong, Hanazono and the Oksan Buffet), the Ritz bar and the Ritz Deli. For the past 15 years, Chef Kim has been bringing his own style and flair to the Ritz Carlton brand and the food he presents is delicate, refined and shows off the skills this kitchen veteran has learnt over the years.

Chef Kim started his training not in school, but on the job. When he first began working, he admits that he didn’t even know what minestrone was. Restaurant kitchens were his classrooms, and he has strived hard to get to where he is today. His job has always been about challenges and achieving perfection. He is attracted to healthy food and light and fresh ingredients, especially seafood. He enjoys taking f lavours and balancing them together to create exciting dishes.

Starting off at the Sejong Cultural Centre in 1980, Chef Kim has travelled the world in search of inspiration. He has been especially inf luenced by his visits to Japan. At first, he found it difficult to communicate there and couldn’t understand why the food was so expensive. However, with time he began to see how impressive Japanese cuisine was. The portions were small, but Japanese attention to detail and the quality of the food was

incredible, and customer service was of crucial importance to them.

At his main restaurant, The Garden, Chef Kim focuses on assembling tastes that he has discovered around the world and transforming them into his own creations. It’s a joy to hear him talk as he excitedly describes some of his menus. He prefers tapas-style small portions and even hot smokes his own salmon.

In his other restaurants, he takes just as much care whether it’s with grilled steaks and fish at the Oksan Buffet, teppanyaki at Hanazono or shark’s fin soup at Chee Hong.

Catering for both Korean and foreign customers is not a problem for Chef Kim, as he experienced European cuisine from a young age and understands his clientele well. He also loves working hard to create Korean menus that work for foreigners. Five years ago he embarked upon a quest to find out how to introduce kimchi to foreigners, sampling as many different kinds as he could to understand the flavours. He had already spent time in Germany introducing bibimbap and japchae, as well as creating his own bulgogi sandwiches.

It’s easy to see why Chef Kim has enjoyed such success. He’s a charming man, and you can feel the passion that drives him to fight for perfection. His enthusiasm is infectious, and after spending time with him, I can’t help but share his excitement about his kitchen creations. The Ritz-Carlton Seoul wants to treat customers like royalty, and Chef Kim is the perfect choice to serve food fit for a king.

Soon-gi Kim, Executive Chef Ritz-Carlton Seoul W o r d s an d s h o t s b y P aul M att h e ws

Chef Kim’s Curry-Scented Brown Rice Salad Ingredients (5 servings) • 50g curry powder • 3 lemons • toast • 30g broccoli • 50g fresh basil • 30ml olive oil • brown rice • chives to taste • 5g fresh thyme • salt, pepper to taste • 50ml white wine • 30ml brown rice vinegar • fresh rosemary to taste • 250g sprouted sticky brown rice • 30ml balsamic vinegar • 5 cherry tomatoes (one per salad) • 5 small bell peppers (one per salad)

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Instructions 1 Wash sprouted brown rice and let sit in 500ml of water for 20-30 min before removing water.

2 Mix curry power and wine with water for rice stock and steam rice in the stock.

3 Add chives, brown rice vinegar, and salt into steamed rice.

4 Poach and mince the broccoli and put it on the toast with lemon juice, salt, pepper, and chopped herbs.

5 Blanch the cherry tomatoes in boiling water and add lemon juice to taste.

6 Garnish with the bell peppers, which may be pan-broiled or raw.

7 Let the rice cool to room temperature and serve with the vegetables, using mixed balsamic and olive oil for the dressing (1:1).

Shot by Sh awn Pa r k er

A TASTE OF KOREA

B i bi m ba p 비빔밥

the rice will brown up at the base of the pot, resulting in a toasted f lavor that is quite popular here. This version is not as easy to mix up as the others, but it’s still enjoyable.

I made one of my best bibimbap memories at a small counter down in Dongdaemun Market. All the ingredients were ar ranged in front of me, and I got to choose what I wanted to add to the rice.

It was then mixed, served and eaten in an enormous stainless steel metal bowl that could have easily held another five portions. As fast food goes, this was one of the quickest meals I have ever had, cheap as chips and delicious. Of course, it did feel a bit like I was eating from a basin!

From t hat f i r st ai rl i ne e ncou nt e r, bibimbab has grown to be one of my favorite Korean dishes, and I am sure to keep making it long after I leave this country behind.

A perennial favorite of Korean cuisine, bibimbap reminds us that it’s okay to get a little mixed up every now and again.

W o r d s by c i a r a n h i ck e y, e x ecu t i v e c h ef o f t h e w se o u l wa l ker h i l l

C

hances are that bibimbab was your first introduction to Korean food as it seems to be the permanent “second option” on Korean Air flights in and out of Seoul. It certainly was for me. Since then I have purchased a rice cooker and mastered the art of making bibimbap at home. As Korean dishes go, it is one of the simplest to prepare and serve.

Basically, bibimbap means “mixed rice” in Korean and is a simple dish of steamed rice topped with a selection of vegetables, greens, beef and an egg. You then simply mix the whole lot with gochujang, Korea’s fiery red pepper paste and a little sesame oil. One of the key points which makes this such an attractive dish is that you, the diner, control just how spicy it will be since you can add as little or as much gochujang as you can tolerate.

In addition to the standard dish, you From left: Shrimp dolsot bibimbab, Mushroom bulgogi bibimbab.

Image provided

by Bon Bibimbab

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10 Magazine October 2010

can also find a number of variations of the dish. First, there’s hwoedeopbap (회덮밥), which a lot of Japanese restaurants carry as “sashimi rice.” In this version, raw fish replaces the meat and the gochujang is adjusted a little to be lighter and easier to mix. The other bibimbap family member I unhappily burned my fingers on is dolsot bibimbap (돌솥 비빔밥). This little beauty is baked in a clay pot and served screaming hot from the oven—hence the burnt fingers. The key point of this dish is that

Secret Bibimbap in Jeonju Hidden in the back streets of downtown Jeonju is one of the best-kept secrets of this beautiful city. Jungang Hoegwan (중 앙회관) is quite possibly the best bibimbap restaurant you’ll ever visit. With prices starting at W10,000 for Old-Style Stone Bowl Bibimbap (옛날 가마솥 비빔밥), you’re guaranteed a feast for the eyes and the belly. The table is filled with deliciousness: spicy glass noodles, crispy mackerel in a sweet soy sauce, bitter dandelion leaf salad, and other tasty side dishes. The bibimbap itself is mixed for you at the table, and I guarantee that you won’t find a better tasting bowl of rice on the peninsula. Take the side street opposite the Jeonju Gaeksa and after 30 meters or so turn right. It’s on the left hand side.

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Clockwise : • Sun Tag Noh’s “the strAnge ball” is a photographic essay on a US radar installation in Korea. • Shilpa GUPTA’s “Singing Cloud” is a 1,000 microphone sound installation. • WEERASETHAKUL – From Apichatpong Weerasethakul’s “Primitive” • Ulrike-2 In "Ulrike and Eamon Compliant", by Blast Theory, you begin your journey through espionage and paranoia with a cell-phone in a box.”

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ooking for a chance to th ree outdoor projects, one get a super-hip, cutting performance and a substane dge mu lt i me d ia a r t t ia l nu mb e r of wor k s t h at fix? Then pack your reflective have never before been seen shades, grab a fistful of clove in South Korea. All of this is cigarettes, slam down a few spread across four venues in espressos, sharpen your postthe City Hall district of Seoul: This unconventional exhibition gives hipster irony till it gleams and the Seoul Museum of Art, the visitors a chance to pause and reflect head to downtown Seoul for Seoul Museum of Art’s Gyeonon the ever-changing media forms one of the best art exhibitions ghuigung Annex, the Simpson of the year. Media City Seoul is Memorial Hall and the Seoul that define our everyday lives. presenting the 6th edition of its Museum of History, all located international biennial exhibiwithin 15 minutes walking disWords by Charles Montgomery tion, with this year’s theme of tance of each other.

“Trust.” he focus of Media City Seoul has always been on techAs the title suggests, this exhibition is about the ambiguous nology and media art, and “Trust” brings together a stelnotion of “trust.” We invest a certain amount of trust in any relalar constellation of media artists, a priceless opportunity tionship we have with the world, whether personal or impersonal, academic or economic. Consider getting into a taxi in Seoul and to see the work of internationally established artists whose pieces speeding downtown among thousands of other drivers, each are not often seen in Seoul.

One of the featured artists is Thai filmmaker Apichatpong piloting their own 2,000-pound-plus potential weapon of mass destruction. This is a demonstration of trust at the highest level as Weerasethakul, who has an international reputation for featurewe put our lives into the hands of complete strangers. According length films and video installations. Weerasethakul will be to Media City Seoul, “As individuals we not only have relations showing his recent project Primitive, about the sleepy village to our fellow citizens, but also increasingly with modes of con- of Nabua, which was the target of fierce oppression, fighting nection. With proliferating forms of media, information comes and violence from the 60s through the 80s. The village is now to us in many guises and the message is more and more opaque; devoid of men, as many villagers were either killed or had fled marketing poses as friendship, solitude as community, and popu- to the forest. This reality of Nabua, known as “widow town,” is echoed in a local legend about a widow ghost who abducts men lism as democracy.”

“Trust” is an exhibition on a vast scale who enter her domain. The multi-platform work consists of video that continues for more than two months and projections, photographs, sculpture and synchronized sound that presents the works of 46 international artists, conjure a dreamscape in the jungle, following the imagined male including twelve entirely new commissions, descendants of the Communist farmers as teenagers who lead a

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journey into fabricated memories.

The collaborative film End of Endless, by internationally acclaimed multimedia artists Lucas Bambozzi, Cao Guimarães and Beto Magalhães will also be featured, a piece that examines the disappearance of certain occupations rendered obsolete as a consequence of modern innovations. It composes an immersive picture about the creative geniality and resistance against new cultural forms and technological trends.

In addition to familiar faces in the art world, this is also an opportunity to see the work of emerging artists. Among these up-and-comers is Korean artist Sung-hwan Kim (now living in Amsterdam). Kim’s new work, Washing the Brain and Corn is a single-channel video. Its inspiration comes from the poem “Leichen-Wasche” (Corpse Washing) by Rainer Maria Rilke.

The poem’s treatment of corpses, which the artist interprets as objects which can invent new stories even after death, presents a link to a legend with which his generation is intimately familiar: the story of a South Korean boy whose mouth was said to have been ripped open by North Korean spies for saying “Nan kongsandangi sireoyo” (“I don’t like Communists”). Here, the artist focuses on the ironic circumstances under which such a story is disseminated; after one person’s mouth is damaged, the story about that damaged mouth is then conveyed by several other mouths, initiating a ripple effect of the story’s influence which spreads, transforms or becomes extinct alongside changes in time and space.

“Trust” also includes several outdoor projects that require audience participation, two of which are sponsored by the British Council. The first of these is Blast Theory’s “Ulrike and Eamon Compliant” (originally presented at the Venice Biennial in 2009), a work based on the lives of Ulrike Meinhof (Red Army Faction) and Eamon Collins (Irish Republican Army). This interactive work invites the audience to assume the character of either Ulrike or Eamon as they take a journey through the city receiving and making phone calls as the character they have chosen.

EVENT: Media City Seoul The second outdoor project is THEME: Trust Duncan Speakman’s “As If It DATES: Through November 17th Were the Last Time,” an interacLOCATION: Various venues near tive flashmob featuring website Seoul City Hall (lines 1 and 2) downloads combined to create a TIMES: Tues – Sun 10 am – 9 collaborative outdoor orchestra pm; weekends & holidays 10 experience. am - 7 pm (Sep - Oct), 10 am It is easy to see from these 6 pm (Nov); closed on Mon. varied examples that “Trust” ADMISSION: Free promises to be interesting on ONLINE: Follow the progress multiple levels, with unconvenof the exhibition through tional artists using cutting edge the show’s website med ia to explore how com(mediacityseoul.org), blog munication and trust interact. (trustseoul.wordpress.com), twitter account (twitter.

This exhibition is a must-see for com/mediacityseoulE), and anyone interested in modern, flickr site (flickr.com/photos/ media or concept art, or anyone mediacityseoul/sets). interested in the point at which *There are English guidebooks technological and artistic praxis and audio guides available free come together to build modern of charge. artistic narratives.

For those who want to take this exhibition on the road, Media City Seoul is offering a catalogue (again, under the title “Trust”) which contains texts by fiction writer Young-ha Kim and writer, film theorist and video artist Jalal Toufic; curatorial essays by Clara Kim, Nicolaus Schafhausen, and Fumihiko Simitomo; and a foreword by artistic director Sunjung Kim. 10 Magazine October 2010

Valid date October 31st, 2010

hea lth

The Medicine Maze at Gyeongdong Market

Discover the power of natural healing at Seoul’s Gyeongdong Market, a veritable labyrinth of homeopathic remedies.

Words and shots BY Gregory Curley

Herbal Hub

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With its winding alleyways lined with teeming barrels chock-full of homeopathic ingredients (leaves, herbs, roots, flowers, mushrooms and even centipedes!), Gyeongdong Herbal Medicine Market is a feast for the eyes. Comprising more than 1,000 shops and stalls, it remains Korea’s most famous and one of its largest traditional medicinal markets. In fact, since it began in 1960, the market has been supplying an astounding seventy percent of the peninsula’s herbal medicine ingredients.

Here, you can find Oriental clinics, pharmacies, and myriad other healthrelated outlets selling medicinal herbs at prices 25-40% lower than other areas and department store chains. This writer was even able to save himself W30,000 on a jar of red ginseng. Purists that shy away from the more invasive practices of Western medicine will be happy to find herbal substitutes here.

Nearly as impressive is the 300,000 m2 market that spreads beyond the indoor herbal market. In an area five times the size of Seoul’s World Cup Stadium, vendors sell fresh produce and fish at bargain prices. With plenty of options to choose from and a large network of alleys, Gyeongdong Market is a fun place to get lost in for the day.

Alternative Routes to Healthy Living

Gyeongdong Market was established following the Korean War as farmers swar med in from nor ther n Gyeonggi and Gangwon Provinces to set up shop Continued on p.20

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1 Stalls stacked with fresh ginseng root line the strip outside exit 2 at Jegi-dong Station 2 The doraji (bellflower roots) hanging in front are a powerful fever and cough remedy 3 Front entrance to the warehouse-style herbal market 4 A shopkeeper stands in front of shelves crammed with cans of pure red ginseng.

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around the historic Seongdong Station, later renamed Hansol Donguibogam. This makeshift marketplace led to the birth of Gyeongdong Market. In 2005, the Seoul Metropolitan Government came up with a more accurate description, designating the market with the official title of Seoul Yang Nyoung Si (서울약령시), which translates to “the marketplace for drugs in Seoul.”

Don’t expect to find the likes of Tylenol or Buckley’s cough syrup, though. Instead, scoop up a bag of doraji, or bellflower root, which is said to relieve fevers and coughs.

Or perhaps grab some hwanggi—milk vetch root, which is excellent for boosting energy levels. Immune system a little weak? Scoop up some hongsam (red ginseng), as Gyeongdong has an endless selection of the much-heralded medicinal root.

A walk through some of the back streets will lead to a series of hanyakbang (한약방, herbal medicine shops) and haneuiwon (한 의원, Oriental clinics). Whereas the former only sell Oriental remedies, the latter will take you even further with medical treatments such as pulse examinations (the more traditional method of diagnosing patients) and acupuncture.

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The Way Forward

The numbers of visitors to the market have been shrinking over the years, and the recent economic downturn has also taken a toll. But things are looking up.

Renovations are currently under way to give the rather outdated look of the market a modern facelift. Officials envision a new shopping experience that will still preserve the area’s innate charm.

The first big addition was Hansol Donguibogam, built in 2004, which opened on the spot where Midopa Department used to stand. Hanbang Cheonha, Donguibogam Tower-Tel and several other areas are now undergoing renovations as well.

Seoul also plans to pave some of the older walkways, build a new parking lot to accommodate the city’s swelling traffic, and implement stricter sanitary rules for medicine and food items on display.

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Getting there

Take subway line 1 to Jegi-dong Station and get out at exit 2. There are many stalls lining the roads directly outside the exit. However, the indoor market is a little further down (roughly 500m) on the left.

Hours of operation

9 am - 6:30 pm. Note that some shops are closed on Sunday and public holidays.

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Antlers on sale

The Doctor Is In

If you’re not sure where to go for that first acupunctural jab, you could do far worse than Baekbong Clinic (백봉한의 원), which has a good Oriental pharmacy as well as the usual array of treatments.

Walk straight to the four-way intersection from exit 2 at Jegi-dong Station and turn left twice. It’s just down the street from there. 02-964-7778

8 5 A vendor in front of his store watches passersby 6 Barrels of jujube fill the entranceway to the indoor market 7 Just one of the many varieties of tree root one can find here 8 The mural on the stairwell leading to the ginseng center

Photographs from the collection of Robert Neff

history

Nagasaki

The Gateway to Korea’s Past Editor’s Note This is the first in an ongoing series of historical essays

by Robert Neff about Korea at the turn of the 20th century. Neff is a co-author of Korea Through Western Eyes (2010), an excellent source of information about life in Korea in the early modern period.

W o r d s BY R o b e r t N e f f

If you really want to learn about early Korean-Western relations, you have got to start by looking at Nagasaki, Japan.

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agasaki was opened for trade with the West in 1859. The foreign settlements that subsequently were established in that city served “as springboards for the modernization of Japan,” according to historians Brian Burke-Gaffney and Lane R. Earns, who have researched 19th and 20th century Nagasaki. They claim that “during the first years, Nagasaki played an important role in that it was the closest port to China and a stepping stone for the introduction to Japan of everything from secondhand steamships to bowling balls and as a gateway for coal mining, railroads, newsTop: Nagasaki city scene.

Bottom from left: Garden of Hotsuta in Tokyo, Nagasaki, Mount Fuji

22 10 Magazine October 2010

paper publishing, shipbuilding and other technologies.”

But Nagasaki was much more than just that—it was also the closest port to Korea and served as the “springboard” for early Western-Korean relations, both positive and otherwise, and some of Korea’s modernization. To take a commercial example, the first American businessmen in Korea got their start at Nagasaki. The first, Captain George B. Mott, arrived in Korea in the summer of 1883 but died two weeks later from a disease he contracted while in the fledgling port of Chemulpo (modern Incheon). The other businessman

was Captain Charles H. Cooper. Cooper also arrived in the summer of 1883 and managed to establish a fairly successful business before he passed away in December 1889. Both of these men have sensational backgrounds including shipwrecks and murder.

Mott and Cooper were both financed by the American-owned George Lake & Co. which was one of the earliest and largest businesses in Nagasaki. One of Korea’s first steamships was purchased from this company (and subsequently repossessed by it for failure to maintain payments).

George Lake also has the dubious honor of being the first American murdered in Korea by a fellow Westerner. The murder took place in Chemulpo in 1898, but few mourned his death because of his sordid past, including incest, abandonment and abuse.

In a round-about-way, Nagasaki may have even saved the Korean throne in 1886. The Chinese government, concerned about King Gojong’s progressive policies and friendly overtures to Russia, sent 150 Chinese soldiers disguised as coolies and merchants to Seoul. It simultaneously dispatched a large naval force not only to show its power to Korea, but also as a warning to Russia and Japan not to interfere. This fleet sailed first to Korea and then divided – one part going to Vladivostok and the other to Nagasaki.

The fleet was then supposed to regroup at Chemulpo where pressure could be placed upon the Korean king to adopt the Chinese policies or be forced from his throne.

Fortunately for Korea, while in Nagasaki, hundreds of Chinese sailors became involved in a huge brawl with Japanese police in the brothel district resulting in a number of deaths and arrests. The Chinese, fearful of antagonizing their neighbors, withdrew the threat of force from Korea.

Nagasaki remained an important gateway to Korea, Russia and China well into the twentieth century, but the spread of aviation greatly diminished this. Its history, however, remains an important gateway to Korea’s past.

10 Magazine October 2010

Words by Peter DeMarco

“Underwater adventure” doesn’t usually come to mind when most people think of Korea, but that’s exactly what you’ll find in the depths around Jeju Island.

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here’s nothing to do in Korea except go to the bars.” How many times have you heard that one? For those looking for something a little more than a night out on the town, look no more. Make your way over to Jeju Island, Korea’s undiscovered diving paradise. Once you dive in Jeju you will never look at Korea the same way again.

When I first moved to Jeju, I was fortunate enough to have an apar tment overlooking the Seogwipo harbor and its three islets: Munseom (Mosquito Islet), Supseom (Forest Islet), and Beom-

seom (Tiger Islet). Even though I had been diving since I was 15, I didn’t jump into the water right away. I saw the photos of tropical-looking fish on the flyer for the local submarine tour, but I thought the pools of fish and colorful coral were just a ploy, a way to get more tourists to pay W50,000 to go on the tour. Still, I often wondered what kind of underwater world was out there.

Jeju’s underwater world is an attractive mix of the black rocks and the kelp of Norway and the soft coral and colorful tropical fish of the Red Sea.

Then one day I met Ralf Deutsch, owner and dive instructor of the dive shop Big Blue 33. I could tell immediately he was a no-nonsense type of guy who did stuff by the book. He actually came to Jeju in 1994 as a professor of the German department at Jeju National University.

Then in 2001, Ralf decided to open his dive shop after seeing the underwater beauty Jeju had to offer. “I wouldn’t have started the dive shop if I didn’t think the diving was great,” said Ralf. I could tell he really believes that Jeju is a fantastic diving destination as he listed all the things you can see underwater.

He went on to say there is a unique mix of cold water and tropical species on Jeju: octopus, lionfish, scorpion fish, grouper, jack, butterfly fish, angelfish, boxfish, and many others. And then there are the numerous species of soft coral ranging in color from Ralf Deutsch at the Big Blue Dive Shop orange, yellow, and purple, to blue and white. They are like glowing underwater gardens, sometimes even on volcanic rock. In the cold season there are forests of kelp growing from the ocean floor that reach all the way to the surface.

Jeju Island really is on par with some of the best dive destinations around the world. Wolfgang Pölzer, underwater photographer and dive journalist from Austria, described Jeju’s underwater world during his visit as an “attractive mix of Norway and the Red Sea - the black rocks and the kelp like in Norway and the soft coral and the colorful tropical fish like in the Red Sea.” Convinced

After talking to Ralf and seeing some underwater photos at his dive shop, I knew his outfit was the one I wanted to dive with. I signed up for a dive and showed up at 9 am the next day.

For the first hour we prepared our gear and got to know the other divers over coffee and biscuits. Then we loaded up the van and took a short drive down to the port. Next, we loaded the tanks onto a fishing boat that took us on a 15-minute ride to Munseom Islet. Once we arrived we quickly unloaded our gear.

As the boat pulled away I had to admit I felt a little like Robinson Crusoe being left on some deserted island.

We put our wetsuits on and Ralf gathered us for a briefing on 10 Magazine October 2010

Photo on p. 24 taken by Hyeon-sik Yun, other shots by Ralf Deutsch and Armin Truttnau

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Sunlight shines down into the Munsom Kelp Ferest.

10 Magazine October 2010

the dive. I felt very safe and could tell he was a concerned professional. By now I was sweating so much inside my wetsuit I felt like I was in a sauna.

Finally the moment came and we leapt off the rocky islet into the water. As soon as I hit the sea and the cool salt water filled my wetsuit, I remembered why I like diving so much. You feel like a beached whale on land with all your heavy gear on. Moving around is cumbersome, especially with fins on. But once you’re in the water you just relax, glide around, and hover over the world below you. Only astronauts get to feel a greater sense of breaking away from gravity.

But the best feeling of all is when you put the regulator in your mouth, release all the air in your BC (buoyancy compensator), and slip into the bluish-green liquid below. You go instantly from a life of sound into one of weightless silence. Of course there is the rhythmic sound of your own breathing - the percolating pop of your own CO 2 bubbles rising to the surface - but even that sound is almost therapeutic.

As you descend you realize that, without trying to sound too clichéd, there really is a whole other world down there. And best of all, you don’t have to surface for another 25 to 30 minutes or more.

í•œęľ­ę¸ˆěœľíˆŹěž?협회 ě‹Źě‚Źí•„ ě œ10-4729호(2010.09.16 - 2010.12.11)

Class Is in Session

Whether you are a certified diver or a complete beginner, Ralf can help you out. Big Blue 33 offers many types of courses that are all taught according to NAUI (National Association of Underwater Instructors) standards, so your certifications will be accepted wherever you go in the world.

You can take the following NAUI courses: Scuba Diver, Advanced Scuba Diver, Master Scuba Diver, Scuba Rescue Diver, Assistant Instructor, and Divemaster.

If you have never dived before but are curious about what it is like, you can take the one-day Try Scuba Diving Course. It is a non-certification course designed to give you a feel for scuba.

Your instructor will teach you the basics and then shadow you on a shallow dive. You will have someone next to you at all times to make sure things go smoothly.

So if you are reading this article in a bar somewhere around Korea, looking for something new and adventurous to do, don’t hesitate. Korea’s best kept secret is out of the bag. Dive Jeju!

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'JOBODJBM (SPVQ Diving Jeju Fast Facts Contact: Ralf Deutsch at Big Blue 33, bigblue33.co.kr Dive Shop: 064-733-1733 • Mobile: 019-9755-1733 Main diving season: May through October, although you can still dive as late as December (the water temperature is still about 20 degrees around Christmas).

Where to stay: Check out the Big Blue 33 website or just call Ralf directly and ask him to help you set up your reservation.

Prices: • Two tank islet dive: W70,000 includes boat ride, guide, tank, weight, lunch, water • Gear rental for one day: W25,000 includes all the gear you need to make your dive • Try Scuba one day: W100,000 • Other diving course prices are on website Getting there:

By A ir

Flights leave daily from all around Korea. Once at the Jeju airport you can take the airport bus all the way to Seogwipo.

Remember you can dive after flying but you cannot fly immediately after diving. You should plan for one night in Jeju before you fly back home.

By S e a

Busan: Take the overnight ferry to Jeju (about six hours). Then try to catch a Sunday night ferry that will put you in Busan on Monday morning.

Jeollanam-do: The new orange high-speed ferry will get you to Jeju in less than two hours.

JH Ferry: jhferry.com 1577-5820 10 Magazine October 2010

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Words by Malcolm Wrest, shots by Malcolm Wrest and Lisa Smith

Let your spirits soar as you take to the sky in one of Korea’s recreational aircraft.

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iStockPhoto.com

first took to the air in Korea some eight years ago on a joy flight out of Songdo Airfield. The magic of it resonated immediately—the angelic ascent into a brilliantly azure day, in perfectly clear and still conditions. But since then I’ve found myself looking down as much as up. Flying permits me to discover some new feature of the country that I can later get to on foot, such as new routes to the topmost points of hills I have hiked or a public park that I was previously unaware of.

Flying affords a whole new perspective on the Korean landscape and magnifies my appreciation for locations formerly visited. There was a poignant moment on my last flight when I crossed over the stunning summit of Mt. Kumi, which a much younger version of myself had climbed almost a decade ago.

Another such occasion was late last year.

While I soared over the Yeongpyong ski resort and the gleaming white wind turbines situated along the east coast nearby, memories of an earlier visit to the site flooded back to me.

The Road to the Runway

Learning to fly is not as difficult as you may think, though it will take considerable time, effort, and of course funding. The first thing is to take a deep breath and brace yourself for the costs involved, as this is not a pastime for the financially faint-hearted. Next, you should choose the type of aircraft you want to fly.

This article will look at several categories of aircraft: fixed wing, recreational sports aircraft, ultralights, rotary wing, and nonrigid wing. Aircraft are graded by how they generate lift and how much they weigh, and costs vary proportionately.

Every flight has its own special moments, if you remain open enough to be sensitive to them: the majestic beauty of a cloud formation, the wind whistling by, and the achievement of facing and overcoming challenging weather.

General aviation

General aviation (GA or fixed wing) aircraft offer universal certificate recognition (if you can get the certificate, of course, but more on that later) in a proven and tested product that is generally comfortable to fly, and in a grade of aircraft that has the speed and range to outperform a vehicle. 40 hours minimum of instruction are officially required before testing may be undertaken.

Rather luckily for those living in Seoul and its environs, there are three schools situated out at Gimpo Airport, easily accessible by bus, taxi, or subway. I quote the price for the cheapest aircraft in each company. Prices rise considerably for larger grades of aircraft.

Beauti-fly is about a 10-minutes walk away a building outside the International Terminal at Gimpo in a secure area, which you will not be permitted to enter by yourself. Ring them in advance so they can pick you up from the International Terminal.

Aircraft: Cessna 152, 172S, 206 Contact: Mr. Lee at 02-2665-7627, club-beautifly.com Language: Instructors are said to speak English Cost: Starts at W160,000/hour of instruction. First flight must

be at least three hours long, but after that it’s up to you and the teacher.

Halla Sky Air is on the third floor of the International Terminal, in a difficult-to-find location, down a small corridor behind the shopping plaza. Call them in advance so that they can come and fetch you.

Aircraft: Cessna 172S and the Partenavie P68C Contact: Mr. Gabriel Yoo at 02-2661-6767, 010-9203-0914,

gabriel914@naver.com, hallaskyair.com Cost: Starts at W220,000 per hour. This is settled through

payments of one third of the total cost of 40-hours tuition to be paid over the course of three months until reaching the full sum. If more than 40 hours tuition is required, there will, of course, be further payments.

Pilot School is the easiest organization to locate as it is in the basement, directly below the information desk on the ground floor of the international terminal and accessible by escalator. It is the largest school in Gimpo and has all the bells and whistles: 10 Magazine October 2010

Left and below: Lisa S m ith

uniformed staff, training rooms, airline company partnerships, and so forth. Their instructors are outstanding both as pilots and teachers.

Aircraft: Cessna 172S, Socata TB9, Piper Seminole, Fairchild

Metro 23 Contact: 02-2667-0015 for reception, or contact Iris at

iris-kim78@hanmail.net or Perry at perry17@naver.com, pilotschool.co.kr Language: The instructors speak excellent English.

Cost: One hour of instructed flight costs W200,000 (Cessna 172S). They require an upfront payment of W3,000,000 which can then be applied as credit for your lessons. No refunds.

In addition to these private companies based at Gimpo, Korea boasts two universities which instruct pilots. The Korean Aerospace University in Goyang, northwest of Seoul, has an absolutely magnificent facility that opened only a few months previously out at Uljin-gun on the east coast, a four-hour drive from Seoul. At this stage it is still unclear exactly what courses the general public can access, but I have been informed that flight instruction is one of them.

Contact: 02-300-0114 (no English), kau.ac.kr Language: Mr. Song-won Shin (geraldwinnie@kau.ac.kr) will

reply to you in English Hanseo University has an impressive facility out in Taeangun (two-and-a-half-hour drive from Seoul with traffic), located very near the tip of the mainland featuring the one and only bridge across to Anmyeon Island. The airfield is large and imposing but quite difficult to find, as it is several kilometers away from the main road. It is, however, a spectacular location in which to fly. Most importantly, they do instruct people who are not enrolled in the university.

Aircraft: Cessna 172S and others Contact: Jason Kim (lima1bravo@hotmail.com, 010-8936-

1441) is a helpful and pleasant instructor. hanseo.ac.kr

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Cost: W263,000 per hour of tuition

10 Magazine October 2010

Recreational Sports Aircraft

This is a somewhat confusing category that lies somewhere in between a GA aircraft and an ultralight. Hanseo University (see above) has an aircraft with such a rating, which is available at W170,000 an hour. Mr. Park (soopark@hanseo.ac.kr) may be contacted to confirm these prices.

Another option is Expat Flyers, run by English expat Matthew Walker, who has lived in Korea for a number of years. This group offers introductory flight workshops (including an actual flight!) on many weekends of the year in a Zenair (recreational sports aircraft) and an X-Air (ultralight) hangared at Hanseo University Airfield. He offers “packages” which include most aspects of ground school (flight theory). To compare costs and flight time charges, look through the details of the respective packages at his site. expatflyers.net, information@expatflyers.net Ultralights

Though this category of aircraft originated as a more affordable way for amateurs to fly, ultralights will likely not save you much until you are in a position to purchase one outright. Tuition costs will still be in the region of W200,000 an hour or higher, and I personally believe that the money is better put towards tuition in a GA aircraft. However, the minimum number of flight hours to qualify for sitting the exam for a flying license drops to 20 hours at this grade of aircraft. There are other advantages, including the ability to fly them out of a paddock and the fact that licensing and operating costs are somewhat lower than a GA aircraft.

Even though I generally do not recommend ultralights, to date most of my flying has been in one or another of the things. They are certainly an intimate flying experience. However, there is virtually no luggage capacity, they are limited to two seats, and they frequently fly at speeds slower than most vehicles on Korea’s expressways. In addition, there are often restrictions on the distance that you may operate from your nominated “home” airfield. Forget about flying that man or woman of your dreams down to Jeju for a romantic weekend.

Dream Air, located in Chechon, has one of the most substantial ultralight operations in Korea, complete with a hardened tarmac and a large variety of aircraft, including a seaplane!

Aircraft: Dingo ultralight and others Contact: Reception at 043-643-2676, Mr. K.J. Yun at

010-9379-0119, flydream.co.kr Language: The owner, Mr. Yun, speaks English Cost: Time blocks of 10 hours (W2,250,000), which comes to

W225,000 per hour

I have otherwise personally flown ultralights at Songdo Airfield (opposite Songdo New Town in Incheon) for many a year.

While there have been no deaths to date, there have certainly been some substantial injuries that have been a little too close to death for my liking. Nevertheless, my instructor there, Mr. Lee, has faithfully persevered with me without any incidents in the old Wizard push-propeller ultralight over the years. Mr. Lee is a solid instructor and a cautious pilot—with barely a word of English.

There is a narrow flight zone and you will be restricted to within a few kilometers of the airfield. However, it is still fun to fly around the rather spectacular skyline of Songdo New Town and environs.

Contact: 011-9190-4021 Language: Mr. Lee’s wife speaks English Cost: W200,000 per hour Rotary Wing

Rotary wing aircraft, known to most of us as “helicopters,” are fabulous things of utter joy to fly. Admittedly, they are a bit more difficult to handle than a fixed wing aircraft, since you have to adjust to how the physics of flight are affected by feedback loops from the control surfaces. Still, piloting one of them is definitely an obtainable skill. You just need to choose which bank to rob, in order to pay for the tuition!

Hanseo University at the Taean Airfield (more details above) has both the Robinson R-22 (a two seater) and R-44 (a four seater) in which you can train. English speakers will be relieved to hear that there is an American national named Paul who is employed at the University and provides instruction for the R-22.

An hour’s instruction is available at W350,000 for the R-22 and W450,000 for the R-44, quite reasonable (for a helicopter, that is). Compare that to Turboline, a school with similar aircraft based at Gimpo with whom I have flown, which now charges W600,000 per hour for the R-22 due to skyrocketing insurance costs.

Coming in for a Landing

The last flight I took was down to Ulsan and back. It was a magical experience to return at night over the brightly glowing lights of Incheon to land at night at Gimpo Airport. As I pulled to a stop at the airport where I first arrived in Korea over a decade ago, I had the same spectacular cockpit view as a pilot of an Airbus or Boeing 747.

In some regards, the magic of flying never fades. Every flight has its own special moments, if you remain open enough to be sensitive to them: the majestic beauty of a cloud formation, the wind whistling by, and the achievement of facing and overcoming challenging weather. I’ve yet to tire of flying.

The Little Matter of a License So you’ve figured out how to get flying lessons, but what about getting a license? Most of the schools mentioned in this article can’t provide this certification. The organization in charge of this is the Korean Transportation Safety Association (www. ts2020.kr 1577-0990), which administers the test for ultralights and general aviation. In addition to demonstrating your practical knowledge of flying, there is a written exam entirely in highly technical Korean. Luckily for prospective pilots, however, several schools offer licenses without the Korean language written test. Dream Air (above) claim that they have trained and issued licenses to three expatriates to date. Another school said to be able to offer testing in English is Seung Jin Air, located in Yeoju-gun southeast of Seoul (aviationclub.co.kr 031881-4009). Naturally, there will still be a practical exam and the examiners will require you to demonstrate to their satisfaction that you understand aviation theory, but at least you will not have to demonstrate that knowledge in Korean.

10 Magazine October 2010

Expat News

Global Guests Invited to Free Nanta Show There are a lot of 10s this month, and one of them is the 10th anniversary of the Nanta theater. To mark the occasion, Nanta is offering souvenirs, photos, and best of all a totally free performance of Nanta on October 10th at 2 pm. This opportunity is offered to up to four people from each of the 41 countries where Nanta has been held (complete list on website). You can apply via email at bisous@nanta.co.kr by sending your name, nationality, size of group, and contact number. Note that on the day of the performance you’ll need to wear traditional clothing from your country. nanta.i-pmc.co.kr

Edited by K you ngh ee Li m and Song Lee

Jae-hee Oh Elected New ATEK President When outgoing President Greg Dolezal’s term came to an end on September 12th, ATEK had a big announcement to make: the election of Jae-Hee Oh, an English tutor from Busan, as its new president.

Ms. Oh was Busan’s Employment and Legal Issues Officer before running for president. Fully bilingual in Korean and English, she plans to help bring ATEK’s message into the Korean language media more effectively and raise awareness of ATEK among Korean speakers.

ATEK (the Association of Teachers of English) is a nationwide all-volunteer organization whose mission is to improve the life of English teachers in Korea.

ATEK and its officers provide information and connections to help English teachers develop professionally, make the most of life in Korea, and deal with work and culture issues. To learn more about membership or volunteering, go to atek.or.kr/newsletter.

Without You A n t h o ny R ap p, t h e a c to r w h o played the role of Mark Cohen in the Broadway hit musical Rent, presents his own one-man musical about of two life-changing events: the early days of Rent and the illness and death of his mother. Based on his best-selling memoir, Rapp uses a mix of original music and songs by R.E.M. and Jonathan Larson (the writer of Rent) to convey grief, hope, and triumph. All 10 shows at the 2010 New York Musical Theatre Festival have sold out already, but you still have a chance to see him on his Seoul tour. The show will be held at Sangsang Madang in Hongdae from October 16th to 31st (Dark Mondays).

W44,000 - W88,000. newventure@ newventureent.com 1544-1681

WY Dentistry: As Good As Back Home

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Communication difficulties can make dental care a source of anxiety for expats, but fortunately there are some places where you can be sure your teeth will be treated right. One such place is WY Dentistry, founded and operated by US trained and licensed dentist Dr. Yoo. Before settling in Korea, Dr. Yoo had practiced the general, cosmetic, and implant dentistry in Edison, New Jersey. Now, WY offers the full spectrum of general dental care for all ages with an emphasis on prevention of disease and maintenance of oral health. As WY Dentistry is celebrating its 15th anniversary, it will be giving 10 subscribers a free consultation. Call now to make sure you get your free session with Dr. Yoo. WY Dentristry is located in the heart of Gangnam minutes away from the Yeoksam Stn. (line 2) or Hakdong Stn. (line 7). 02-514-5575

10 Magazine October 2010

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Expat News

Seven Luck Casino

at Millennium Hilton Seoul Reopens The third of three Seven Luck Casinos operating in Korea as a subsidiary of the Korea National Tour Organization is now back in business. This past month, the Millennium Hilton Seoul branch reopened after interior remodeling which has increased the number of games and seats. At the casino, foreigners can test their chances on a variety of games such as roulette, black jack, baccarat, and slot machines.

Renovation at the hotel focused on offering guests a spacious and exquisite interior along with a comfortable and relaxing atmosphere. The entrance to the casino is decorated with ginkgo trees which make guests feel like they are walking down a trail in the forest. Inside the casino, a super-sized array of twenty-five 46-inch LCD monitors engages the eye, and a crystal chandelier decorates the ceiling six meters above.

Another major change is the introduction of the yin yang into the casino. This “taegeuk” pattern, the symbol seen on the Korean flag, is fundamental to the creation of the world according to Eastern philosophy. This symbol appears on the floors of the waiting areas and the main hall, giving the Seven Luck an enigmatic look. See the Seven Luck’s new look for yourself before the Lucky Money Couch Event ends on October 9th. The casino is open 24 hours a day with no holidays. 7luck.com 02-3466-6100 Getting there: Head toward the Millennium Hilton Seoul from Heohyeon Stn. (line 4, ex. 4) or Seoul Stn. (line 4 and 1, ex. 8). The location is ideal for tourists exploring the city, as it is only a 10 - minute walk from attractions like Myeongdong, N Seoul Tower on N ams an, N am d a emu n, and the Namsangol Hanok Village.

Proudly supplied by Kobeak Foods©

34 | 10 Magazine October 2010

Edited by K you ngh ee Li m and Song Lee

Hi Seoul Festival Goes Non-Verbal This fall’s Hi Seoul Festival is once again ready to rock you, this time with a focus on performances you don’t need any Korean to appreciate. From October 2nd to 10th, spots all along the Han River in Seoul will turn into festival venues hosting 200 non-verbal, mime, and circus performances from 13 countries. Jazz fans in particular will want to visit Seonyudo near Yanghwa Bridge for “Jaz z in Seonyudo.” For fireworks, watch Group F decorate the sky with indescribable colors the night before the festival star t. For activities and per formances, head to “Big Top Village” at Yeouido Park. And it’s all free. hiseoulfest.org 02-1330

Citi Cards Premium Dining Service 10% of f at dozens of restaurants? Free food at Mad for Garlic? These are the benefits you get with the Citi Cards Premium Dining S er vic e of fered

by Citibank Korea. Available for all Citibank credit card holders, including those with Citi BC, IBK, and Citi Cards issued overseas, the service gets you a 10% discount whenever you go to any restaurants inside the W Hotel (Gwangjin-gu) and the JW Marriott Seoul (Seocho-gu). It also applies to another 150 premier dining establishments located in Seoul hot spots such as Apgujeong, Cheongdam, Itaewon, Samcheong-dong, Garosugil and Gwanghwamun, as well as locations in Busan and Daegu. At Mad for Garlic, Citi Cards customers can also enjoy one of four menu items (Seafood Salad, Margherita Pizza, Garlicholic Rice or Garlicpeno Pasta) free of charge. citiworldprivileges.com 02-2004-1004 10 Magazine October 2010

E dited by J e a n H a n and S o ng L e e

Breakfast Bliss at Renovated Buffet Restaurant JW Marriott Seoul

The JW Marriott Seoul presents a special autumn package through November 30th. The package is good for one night in a Superior Room and comes with free access to the fitness club and swimming pool and breakfast for two in the newly remodeled buffet restaurant that opened on September 20th. The Autumn Package is available on Friday, Saturday and Sunday except November 7th – 12th. W249,000++. jw-marriott.co.kr 02-6282-6282

Cartier Exhibition at the Walkerhill Duty Free Shop Sheraton Grande Walkerhill The Cartier Brand Exhibition will be held through October 10th. The renowned French watch brand Cartier boasts limited edition watches with prices ranging from US $20,000 to US $1 million, and all available for purchase.

Cartier’s most beloved watches including the Rotonde Central Chronograph, Santos 100 Skeleton and Ballon Bleu Flying Tourbillion WG will be displayed as part of the exhibition as well. walkerhill.com 02-450-6350

Package Picnic to Namsan

36 10 Magazine October 2010

Grand Hyatt Seoul Through November 28th, the Grand Hyatt Seoul presents a special Autumn Weekend Package. Enjoy one night’s accommodation in a Grand Room, complete with a splendid view of the Namsan scenery and a picnic set with a mat for you to take with you on a pleasant outdoor stroll through Namsan Park. Package guests also enjoy full use of the gym and pool to take maximum advantage of their stay. W189,000++. seoul.grand.hyatt.com 02-799-8888

“Songi” Mushroom Cuisine at Marco Polo

Grand InterContinental Seoul Special “songi” (pine mushroom) dishes will be presented at the Grand InterContinental Seoul restaurant Marco Polo from September 27th to October 31st. As you enjoy the spectacular view, dine on delicious courses such as Chilean sea bass grilled in miso sauce and served with rare mushrooms and beef tenderloin smothered in gravy. Songi will also be offered in a variety of other Asian dishes with shark’s fin, prawn and abalone. W100,000 - W130,000+. seoul.intercontinental.com 02-559-7620

Fabulous Fall in Namhae Hilton Namhae Golf & Spa Resort

The Hilton Namhae Golf & Spa Resort offers the Fall in Namhae package from Sep 15th to Oct 21st. The package includes one night’s stay in a deluxe suite, free breakfast at the main restaurant Breeze, and free access to the spa. Also, guests are given a map of Namhae province and a 40% discount coupon at House in Garden. W325,000++. hiltonnamhae.com 055-860-0555.

Musical Tickets with 42nd Street Package Lotte Hotel, Seoul

The Lotte Hotel Seoul is offering the 42nd Street Package from September 29th through November 21st for those who want to complement a comfortable hotel stay with a visit to the theater to see the Broadway musical 42nd Street. The package features one night’s stay in a deluxe room, breakfast and food service for two at the Club Lounge and two tickets (R seats) to 42nd Street showing at Charlotte Theater. W325,000++. lottehotelseoul.com 02-759-7311~5

+ = subject to 10% VAT, ++ = subject to 10% VAT and 10% service charge

Special Autumn Menu at Theus Seacloud Hotel

The Seacloud Hotel is introducing two spectacular autumn set menus at the Theus restaurant. Their fresh salmon steak with sweet teriyaki or cream sauce (W30,000+) is prepared for those seeking seafood, and the beef steak (W35,000+) is ready for meat lovers. Both steaks come with the soup of the day, a glass of house wine and dessert. This special menu will only be available at this price in October. seacloudhotel.com 051-933-1600

Songi Mushroom, the Jewel of Autumn

Busan Lotte Hotel Chefs at the Busan Lotte Hotel offer Korean, Chinese, and Japanese dishes made with fresh “songi” (pine mushrooms) through the end of October. At these three different Asian restaurants you can experience the songi mushroom, which is said to taste the best in the fall. Dishes are made of other fresh ingredients including shark’s fin, abalone, prawn and beef. W50,000+ to W200,000+. lottehotelbusan.com 051-810-1000

New Steak and Seafood Dishes at Ventanas

Novotel Ambassador Busan Steak and seafood restaurant Ventanas located on the 4th floor of the Novotel Ambassador Busan will launch new menu items including Phyllo Wrapped Lamb, Surf and Turf Semi Royal, and Garlic Cream Soup through November. Phyllo Wrapped Lamb is made of spinach and goat cheese and wrapped in a crust, while the Surf and Turf Semi Royal consists of couscous, lemon herb sauce, grilled vegetables, grilled lobster and steak. Reservations are a must. novotelbusan.com 051-746-8481

US Beef on the MoMo Menu

Courtyard by Marriott Seoul This fall, Momo Café at the Courtyard Marriott presents a new US beef promotion menu with fine dishes such as char-grilled US beef rib eye with roasted pumpkin, asparagus, tomato and black garlic sauce. Stop by the café anytime during October for a delicious meal. Dishes are available à la carte or as set menus. courtyardseoul.com 02-2638-3081

10 Magazine October 2010

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October 29th - December 9th

National Geographic Photo Exhibition

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You’ve got to wonder if the editors of the first edition of National Geographic back in 1888 had any idea that one day it would be read by millions of subscribers in 34 languages, including Korean. This popularity is due not only to the fascinating articles on topics ranging from geology to archaeology but also to the spellbinding photography. Globetrotting photographers bring their technical prowess and courage to bear in capturing images that reveal both

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NATIONWIDE CALENDAR

Movies

by Paul M atthews

The Last Airbender Directed by M. Night Shyamalan After reading the scathing comments about M. Night Shyamalan’s latest film I was skeptical. Could it really be that bad?

Surely they must have been exaggerating; after all, this was the director who wowed us with The Sixth Sense and Unbreakable.

A live action film based on a popular Nickelodeon cartoon was bound to be at least a little entertaining.

Nothing could prepare me for how bad this film really was.

All you need to know about the plot is that there is a little boy named Aang (played by a woefully wooden Noah Ringer), and he is the last Airbender. There are good guys and bad guys and a big floating monster. Dev Patel plays the stroppy and rather evil Prince Zuko, and doesn’t deserve to have this film as his follow up to Slumdog Millionaire.

The Last Airbender feels less like a Shyamalan movie than a poor rip off of Lord of the Rings. It’s crammed with voiceovers and montages that give you the impression of a rushed and badly handled editing process. The action sequences are dull, the script is terrible and the relatively short run time of 103 minutes seems to drag on for days. I wish that it was so bad it was funny, but it was just deathly dull, without any redeeming features.

To turn a fun kids’ animation into the nadir of fantasy action film is quite an achievement, but perhaps not the one that Shyamalan was aiming for. Here’s hoping he turns his back on rubbish like this and finds his voice again. In the meantime, avoid this film like the plague, go back and watch The Sixth Sense, and pray that M. Night never makes The Last Airbender II. 40 | 10 Magazine October 2010

The Expendables Directed by Sylvester Stallone For me, Sylvester St allone, Br uce Willis a nd A r nold Schwarzenegger conjure up memories of violent cinematic fun from the 1980s, when bare-chested muscular heroes raced across screens, killing the bad guys and saving the girl. The Expendables is here to do exactly that, and with Sly Stallone in the director’s chair, it’s not afraid to pull any punches.

Stallone plays Barney Ross, head of a team of grizzled mercenaries called the Expendables. He and his gang are hired to overthrow evil dictator General Garza, but things don’t go as smoothly as planned thanks to loose cannon Gunnar Jensen (played with aplomb by Dolph Lundgren).

The plot is f limsy, the dialogue is dodgy, but the action sequences are worth the ticket price and are great, gruesome fun. It’s good to see Sly and chums enjoying themselves so much onscreen, and each of the film’s stars is given a chance to shine.

This eighties action nostalgia fest won’t be everybody’s cup of tea, but if you have fond memories of Sylvester Stallone and you don’t mind a bit of Jason Statham, then you’ll be happy to sit through this over-the-top tribute to the heroes of Hollywood. * * *

Directed by Seong-yeop Yu Korean melodramas seem to fall into two categories. Some treat their subject matter and their audiences with respect and touch our hearts; others just try to hit us over the head with tragedy and emotion, whilst failing to understand the joys of subtlety and understatement. Fortunately, A Long Visit falls firmly into the first category.

Looking back at the relationship between New This Month (dates are subject to change) Thursday, September 30th

Resilience 나를 닮은 얼굴 Korea/USA Dir. Tammy Chu. The director of this film, which takes a close look at international adoption through the story of a Korean mother reconnecting with her son after thirty years, is herself an adoptee. Limited screening at ArtSonje Center in Seoul (artsonje.org/eng). resiliencefilm.com Thursday, October 7th

Edited by s o n g le e and Dav i d Ca r ruth Thursday, October 14th

22 Bullets France Jean Reno, Kad Merad; dir.

Richard Berry. Former criminal Charly Matteï’s new life as a law-abiding citizen turns upside down when he is left for dead with twenty-two bullets in him. www.limmortel-2010.com Enlightenment 喝 (할) Korea Sang-jeon Woo, Yong-ju Jo, Hong-jin An; dir. Yong-jin Yun. Orphans Woo-cheon and Michael opt to follow different religious teachings on their path to enlightenment. cafe.naver.com/halmovie

D-Project Hong Kong/China Andy Lau, Jean-Michel Casanova; dir. Hark Tsui. Empress Wu Zetian recalls Detective Dee (based on the historical personage of Di Renjie) from exile so he can solve a string of perplexing deaths.

I, Don Giovanni Italy/Spain Lorenzo Balducci, Lino Guanciale; dir. Carlos Saura. 18th century Italian lyricist Lorenzo da Ponte, who worked on the opera Don Giovanni with Mozart, is the subject of this drama.

Godfather II USA Al Pacino, Robert Duvall, Diane Keaton; dir. Francis Ford Coppola. This is a re-release of the 1972 film that continued the epic story of the Corleone family of gangsters.

Midnight FM 심야의 FM Korea Ae Su, Ji-tae Yu, Song-hyeon Choe; dir.

Sang-man Kim. The host of a late night radio program has 120 minutes to free a family held hostage by a mysterious criminal. fm2010.co.kr

Letters to Juliet USA Amanda Seyfried, Marcia DeBonis, Gael García Bernal; dir. Gary Winick.

While on vacation in Italy, Sophie (Seyfried) is fascinated by an old, unanswered love letter that she finds and decides to answer it. letterstojuliet-movie.com

Reign of Assassins China Michelle Yeoh, Woo-sung Jung, Barbie Hsu; dir. Chao-Bin Su, John Woo. The powerful bones of an ancient monk stir up deception, greed, and murder. mediaasia.com/reignofassassins Thursday, October 21st

Skate or Die France Mickey Mahut, Idriss Diop, Elsa Pataky; dir. Miguel Courtois. Two stoned teens on skateboards keep one step ahead of the criminals who are after them in a chase scene that lasts for the entire movie.

Star of Hope: Ikhwezi Le Themba 희망의 별: 이퀘지레템바 Korea Heung-sae Lim, Jeong-hwa Kim; dir. Hong-seok Lee. This documentary tells the story of how football coach Heung-sae Lim brought a team of young South Africans to Korea for the International Youth Football Competition.

Wednesday, October 13th

Little Ashes UK/Spain Javier Beltrán, Robert Pattinson, Matthew McNulty; dir. Paul Morrison. This drama depicts the complicated relationship between young Spanish artists Luis Buñuel, Salvador Dalí, and Federico García Lorca. littleashes-themovie.com

Bloody Fight 혈투 Korea Hui-sun Park, Gu Jin, Chang-seok Go; dir. Hun-jeong Park. After Joseon troops are crushed in a battle with China, three survivors are forced to fight their own friends for survival.

Loveholic 참을 수 없는 Korea Ja-hyeon Chu; dir. Chil-in Kwon. Gyeong-rin’s marriage runs into trouble when a down-onher-luck friend comes to stay and when she falls for one of her husband’s coworkers.

Nora’s Will Mexico Fernando Luján, Verónica Langer; dir. Mariana Chenillo. When lapsed Jew Nora takes a fatal dose of sleeping pills, her ex-husband and relatives work together to prepare for her burial.

Wall Street: Money Never Sleeps USA Shia LaBeouf, Michael Douglas; dir. Oliver Stone. Michael Douglas returns as Gordon Gekko twenty years after the original Wall Street. wallstreetmoneyneversleeps.com 10 Magazine October 2010 | 41

NATIONWIDE

A Long Visit 친정엄마

Ji-suk (Jin-hui Park in fine form) and her mother (excellently performed by Hae-suk Kim), the film deals with the ups and downs of family life as well as reflecting on what every mother sacrifices for the sake of her children.

From the very beginning you know there’ll be no happy ending, but this slow-paced film keeps your attention from start to finish and gently leads you through t he l ive s of t he se t wo wome n .

Though director Yu is a little heavyhanded with the soundtrack, he has managed to translate the story from page and stage to screen without resorting to cheap tricks to make you cry. Even so you’ll probably need a box of tissues handy, and you’ll appreciate your parents even more after watching this.

Chris Massey Vibrainium Self-Released Once the listener gets past the readily apparent Art Blakey inf luences that pop up on drummer Chris Massey’s debut album, the most striking thing to note is just how powerfully the entire quintet melds its disparate parts into a larger-than-life whole. Massey bases his compositions and arrangements on his own “Nue Jazz” concept. This in turn is derived from a creature from Japanese folklore – The Nue – which is created from the parts of four other beasts. In effect, diversity in form leads to a singular musical identity that transcends individual limits. Massey’s drumming, especially on the longer compositions “Galactus” and the title track, certainly anchors the effort with taut emotion, and both the trumpet and sax punctuate with precision. However, it is the piano of Evgeny Lebedev, along with some stellar bass from David Ostrem, that firmly links the instrumental narratives firmly together, especially on the group’s vibrant reworkings of Joe Henderson’s “Inner Urge” and Chick Corea’s “Windows.” This is a powerful, dynamic, and compellingly creative debut indeed; if you thought American jazz had gotten mired in a neo-traditional, derivative morass, you’ll want to hear Vibranium’s refreshingly new direction.

by M i c h a e l B e r ry

Jon Langford & Skull Orchard Old Devils Bloodshot With a musical pedigree stretching back eons to the heady days of The Mekons, Waco Brothers, and Pine Valley Cosmonauts, Jon Langford is back to challenge complacency with his first solo album since 2006’s Gold Brick. Langford’s wry word- and tunesmithing, along with his uncompromising ability to spin a great yarn (often both cautionary and ruefully confessionary) has always stood him in great stead; this collection of quasi-nostalgic and reflective comments on the vagaries of life continues along that metaphorical path. However, given the inherent sense of self-examination expressed through his blend of alt-country honesty (think Wilco with a more punk sensibility), tempered rage (The Mekons/Gang Of Four), and off-beat folk flourishes (à la The Horse’s Ha), Old Devils showcases Langford’s ability to be both disarmingly witty and seriously committed. Mellow, he is not. All tunes on the album have something to offer listeners who actually listen to lyrics, while the music will (mostly) keep toes a-tappin’.

Sometimes, being an analogue man in a digital world has its rewards; in our modern era of ever-shortening attention spans and too much throwaway artistic “expression,” albums like Old Devils are a valuable commodity indeed. For astute listeners only.

by M i c h a e l B e r ry

BoA

Hurricane Venus SM Entertainment

Back with her first Korean album in f ive yea rs, BoA’s Hurr i c a n e Ve n u s is f u l l of what made the superstar’s longevity inevitable. Without pandering to too many electro clichés, the album is a testament to an artist who may not be quite at the top of her career, but is certainly enjoying the perks that come when you’ve spent ten years in the industry. Though Hurricane Venus is not quite as dance-heavy as last year’s English-language debut album, Boa is still reluctant to let tracks linger longer than three minutes of digestible pop filled with in-your-face attitude and sometimes reluctant melodies. Ballads make up the bulk of the longer tracks, proving the genre’s endurance over a career spanning more than fifteen albums while more high-energy tracks such as “Adrenaline” and “Game” keep the album from becoming predictable.

While not her most ambitious work, this comeback album’s content holds its own with BoA’s most memorable albums and underscores her successful

by A n n a O r z e l career.

Books This month we offer short reviews aimed at our visual learners and assessed on our revolutionary new “ocularity scale.”

ROKetship by Luke Martin ($6.49 for PDF, $11.00 tree-based) Fans of Korea, and particularly expats, should grab ROKetship and read it from cover to cover. If you laugh at less than 50% of it you’re a newbie; 50-70% and you’ve settled in; 70-90% you’re a pro; above 90% an old-hand; and if you laugh at all of it you may need to go back home! It’s a collection of funny and pointed cartoons. Martin’s illustration style is angular and distinctive and he is an expert at catching moments, vignettes, and clichés of daily expat life. Fi v e eyes wide open !

Scott Pilgrim (six volumes, prices vary) These six books read like a combination of a D&D adventure, science fiction, and manga.

They follow Canadian slacker Scott Pilgrim, part-time bassist in “Sex Bob-Omb.” He falls for delivery girl Ramona V. Flowers, but seven “evil ex-boyfriends” block him from romantic success. The series has manga-inspired graphics that reminded me of the cartoon “Speed Racer,” a mélange of mundane and peculiar, offbeat humor, and myriad slacker references (oldsters might check out comics by Harvey Pekar instead).

The series is now a movie starring Michael Cera.

Great for slackers of all nations! Fi v e eyes rolling .

Next up, Korean manhwa (kind of like manga, Japanese comics): 10 Magazine has found the good, the bad, and the weird.

T H E G O O D : The two-volume Forest of Gray City (Jung-Hyun Uhm, $9.89) boasts dreamlike art, featuring odd angles, unusual shifts, and irregular spacing and borders. Illustrator/author Junghyum Uhm is a master of shading and pointillism. The story has

42 | 10 Magazine October 2010

eye completely engaged

Manhwa 100 ($15.99) has a beautiful cover and a great concept – a comprehensive introduction to manhwa, but it seems slapped together. The text verges on incomprehensible: “Comic book characters are used in many character merchandises now, but it was not very actively used in the 1990s.” Organization is haphazard and the included essays are often internally contradictory. Beautiful art, but the THE BAD:

overall effect is muddled.

Fi v e eyes wide shut

T H E W E I R D : Let Dai (Sooyeon Won, $9.99), is a fifteenvolume work. While Let Dai is excessively violent, it is also entertainingly melodramatic and sometimes funny. Imagine Scott Pilgrim transplanted to the harsh and beautif ul Seoul of the future. Then add touches of homoeroticism, torture, depression and gangs and you are somewhere in the neighborhood. Won’s art flows smoothly, leading readers from one trauma to another.

Fi v e black eyes

nationwide Hotlines Emergency Police Directory Assistance Medical Information Center

119 112 114 1339

This is a 24-hour, nationwide hospital information service available in English, Korean, Chinese and Japanese.

Foreigner Assistance/Translation BBB 24-hour Language Assistance

1588-5644 KTO Tourism 24-hr Infoline 1330 Korea Immigration immigration.go.kr 1345 Korean Customs customs.go.kr 1577-8577 Seoul Dasan (city info) 02-120

Transportation

by S ta ff o r d L u m s d e n

StarCraft II: Wings of Liberty

Blizzard’s back with the sequel to the bestselling game that taught Korean kids helpful English expressions like “fire in the hole,” “insufficient minerals,” and “Zerg.”

I

n 1998, game developer Blizzard was already well known for its Warcraft series of real time strategy (RTS) games in which players fought pitched battles against Orcs while having to collect resources in order to build settlements and upgrade characters.

It seemed only natural that this formula should be applied to a space-based genre as well and so, 12 long years ago, Starcraft was unleashed upon the world pitting a rag-tag band of humans, lost in the depths of the Milky Way against the Zerg, a nasty insect-looking race, and the mysterious Protoss, both malevolent and benevolent, sometimes helping human outposts and sometimes destroying them.

Almost 10 million copies of Starcraft were sold worldwide up until May this year, and nearly half of those were sold in South Korea. This leads many to call it Korea’s national sport, a somewhat pejorative jab at Korea’s love for the game you might think, until you realize that not one, but two television channels are dedicated to broadcasting professional Starcraft matches 24

hours a day, seven days a week.

Such is the performance of players on Korea’s professional Starcraft circuit that their ability is not measured in wins in losses, but rather in APM or actions per minute, or basically how many mouse clicks a competitive player makes in 60 seconds. The average is about 400 but can reach as high as 800!

StarCraft II, the sequel to the popular game, was announced in May 2009 and released in late July 2010, and by the beginning of August had already sold over a million copies. Set just after the events of the previous game and its expansion packs, the game follows the exploits of character Jim Raynor and his attempts at overthrowing the dictatorial overlords, the Terran Dominion.

The newest iteration of Starcraft has been lauded as a masterpiece in terms of advancing the plot and feeling of the original, and of course the immense increase in computing power over the last 12 years has more than made up for the anticipation. I had access to the beta version early this year, and while RTS games aren’t my usual cup of tea (I’ll take an FPS over an RTS any day!) it was a capable and compelling gaming experience even on my clapped-out old PC. This is not to say that Starcraft II is without its flaws, and there’s one blaring omission. The designers upset many diehard fans by dropping LAN play (being able to play a game over a local network, which once saw geeks around the world lugging their PCs around town to join a LAN Party) in order to focus on online play at Blizzard’s dedicated Battle.net. And then there was the case of the melting computers…

Starcraft II is available for download from Battle.net now and requires a Battle.net subscription to play online. Expats may find it difficult to sign up on the Korean servers, so opt for the US network ($59.99) or European network (59.99 euros) instead.

Asiana flyasiana.com 1588-8000 Busan Air flyairbusan.com 1588-8009 Jeju Air jejuair.net 1599-1500 Korean Air koreanair.com 1588-2001 Intercity Express Bus kobus.co.kr 1588-6900 Korea Railroad Corp. korail.com 1544-7788 Seoul/Gyeonggi Interactive Subway Map smrt.co.kr Mobeom Taxi Service Nationwide 1588-2255 The nationwide “black taxi” number will put you in touch with a driver who speaks English, but these taxis cost about twice as much as taxis from the rest of the color spectrum. Otherwise call 1330 for regular taxis in your area.

Investment Assistance KOTRA kotra.or.kr Invest Korea investkorea.org

02-3460-7114 02-3460-7545

Korean Banks Shinhan Bank Seoul Global Center 100-768 1st Floor, Seoul Finance Center 84 Taepyungro 1-ga Jung-gu Seoul 02-773-3131 Korea Exchange Bank (KEB 외환은행) keb.co.kr 02-729-0114 SC First Bank (SC 제일은행) scfirstbank.com 02-3702-3114

Major Foreign Banks American Express americanexpress.co.kr 02-2000-8100 Australia & New Zealand Banking Group 02-3700-3100 China Construction Bank ccbseoul.com 02-6730-1718 Citibank citibank.co.kr 02-3455-2114 Deutsche Bank 02-724-4500 Bank of America 02-2202-4500 Bank of China 02-399-0368 BNP Paribas

bnpparibas.co.kr 02-317-1700 HSBC 02-311-0060 Websites shown are specifically for the Korean branches of listed foreign banks.

Pizza Delivery Order Nationwide English-speaking Service Domino’s 1577-3082 Papa John’s 1577-8080 Pizza Hut 1588-5588

10 Magazine October 2010 | 43

NATIONWIDE

realistic characters and a believable plot. The ending is a bit abrupt, but beyond that, this is a good introduction to manhwa, as the art is outstanding, and the story is good without going completely over the top (as some manhwa is apt to do). T hird

Food Review

SEOUL

Simple, Smooth, and Savory Hwadong Bistro W o r d s an d s h ot s b y L i sa X i n g

This classy little bistro close to one of Seoul’s swankiest streets serves up hamburger steaks just waiting for your knife and fork.

W

hoever said it’s blasphemous to eat a burger with a knife and fork was wrong. True, I’d rallied on the antiutensil side ever since I could hold one in my hands, but Hwadong Bistro has changed my mind.

Tucked away in a little corner of Sinsadong just off of Garosu-gil, this Americanstyle bistro and wine bar doesn’t boast the typical ribbons and bells of many other social establishments in the Gangnam area. The décor is simple—a smooth, clean, wooden finish on furniture and walls alike. The paintings are mostly the artistry of the owner’s daughter. In fact, almost everything about Hwadong reflects this “smooth,” comfortable feel. The musical selection is centered on easy listening, with appearances by Sade and Norah Jones.

The food ref lects this simple image, too.

Many say good hamburgers are born on a barbecue with a bun and steak sauce, but this bistro reinvents it as a classier fork-and-knife affair without giving in to pretension. Served hot on an iron plate, the grilled hamburger stew (W16,000) comes wrapped in foil, only to reveal a juicy patty topped with potatoes, red pepper, mushroom, carrots, thyme and demiglace sauce. An additional bonus—the waiter dons a bright red oven mitt and expertly pries 44 | 10 Magazine October 2010

open the foil packaging for you. No need for a bun when you have an oven-mitted waiter warming up the meal. If you really crave the carbs, the delicious rye and focaccia breads that precede the meal will do splendidly.

Besides oven-mitted waiters, the restaurant caters to those who fancy contrasting flavours and textures with the organic tomato Hwadong Salad (W11,000). The creamy texture of the avocado clashes wonderfully with the crunchy leaves and croutons—all tossed with organic tomatoes and herb butter. There’s a choice of blue cheese, fruit or balsamic dressing. I chose the latter and didn’t regret it.

Another thing I didn’t regret was going in for lunch. Now, the dinner menu was elaborate, with another assortment of hamburger steaks and a whole separate steak section, but the prices matched the product. With lunch, though, it’s easier to justify shelling out for that extra bottle of Hoegaarden or Miller (W8,000 a bottle). And of course there’s the creamy blueberry cupcake (W5,000), which melts in your mouth like butter—possibly because of all the butter.

Lunch at Hwadong Bistro was so enjoyable that I ended up losing track of time. But not to worry, as the staff didn’t bat an eyelash even an hour after the restaurant was slated to close for lunch.

English menus Allowed on terrace Vegetarian selections Difficult access, steps to restaurant Only for a private room Foreign beers, cheaper lunch menu Pricey beverages W10,000 - W40,000 02-3447-7755 lunch 11:30-2:30 pm, dinner 5:30-10:30 pm 523-20 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 10 Magazine reimburses reviewers for their meals and never notifies restaurants that they will be reviewed.

FOODIE FINDS

Sydney Seafood Fish ‘n’ Chips W o r d s an d s h ot s b y G r ac e S u n

G

yeongnidan is full of great finds lately, many of which were covered in the August issue. Now there’s Sydney Seafood Fish ‘n’ Chips, which recently opened above Noxa Lounge and is quite possibly the best place for fish ‘n’ chips in Seoul. The owner is a young Korean who spent eight years in Australia working at the former Somerset hotel in Sydney’s North Ryde. The best thing to order here is the battered fish and chip set, which includes two pieces of hot, perfectly fried fish, super-yummy thick chips, fresh salad and a drink for W12,000. We also ordered a grilled fish set and a soft-shell crab with chips, but the battered fish was the best by far. However, health-conscious customers will consider it a big plus that they can choose grilled fish instead of battered, something that many other restaurants don’t offer. The homemade tartare sauce was also amazing. If you want a view, you can sit on the high seats by the window and enjoy the passerbys strolling along Gyeongnidan.

G e tti n g th e r e

Head straight out of Noksapyeong Stn. (line 6, ex. 2) until you reach the underground passage way. Cross the street here and take a left. Sydney Seafood Fish ‘n’ Chips is right across the street.

Yongsan-gu Itaewon-dong 671, 2nd Floor, Seoul 02-790-2722 10 Magazine October 2010 | 45

SEOUL DISCOVERIES

SEOUL

Dante Does Seoul at Naos Nova At this posh restaurant and lounge next to Namsan, visitors can decide their own eternal destiny.

W o r d s an d s h ot s b y Ha n n a h S tua r t- L e ac h

W

alking into Naos Nova, located near Namsan Park, you’re immediately aware that this is the kind of place made for special occasions. The formal and exceptionally friendly doorman directs you straight to the glitzy, mirrored lift, leaving you with three options: Earth, Heaven or Hell.

While the intrigue of what awaits you in Heaven and Hell is tempting, it’s Earth where the majority of wine quaffing and fine dining are done. The chic bar and restaurant here, with its muted tones, is smart without being intimidating.

This place is not somewhere to go on a budget, though, with prices reaching as much as W1,837,000 for a fancy bottle of Cristal Rose. But if you’re out to celebrate, the champagne cocktails (W18,000 - W27,000) should be within reach. The extensive wine list also has some great options for less than W50,000, including the 2006 Bourgogne Pinot Noir.

But this isn’t somewhere to come and think about prices. At Naos Nova, it’s quality over quantity, with a serene candlelit atmosphere and wonderful views of Seoul. There’s a strong French influence, represented especially in the food. While the lunch and dinner options are fantastic, the monthly special menu, with six courses finished with coffee, is highly recommended (W80,000).

This writer was treated to carpaccio de filet de beuf coreen accompanied with chutney de poire and pesto de pignon de pin.

So, back to the most bling elevator in the city. Go up to Heaven, if after-dinner cigars and cognac are your thing. Or plunge down into Hell, and you’ll find a large but inviting room, dominated by a grand black dining table. It’s not quite the devil’s seat, but the red and black décor make a little debauchery in this function room seem more than possible.

Hours: 12 pm – 1 am. naosnova.net 02-754-2202 G e tti n g th e r e

Just across from the Hilton Hotel, Naos Nova is a two-minute walk from Seoul Stn. (line 1 & 4, ex. 11).

46 | 10 Magazine October 2010

SEOUL CALENDAR Design & Fashion Through October 7th Seoul Design Fair As the 2010 World Design Capital, Seoul has planned dozens of programs, exhibitions and conferences for the Seoul Design Fair.

Events take place at Jamsil Sports Complex as well as other design clusters throughout the city. sdf.seoul.go.kr 02-412-0729 Through October 31st Formula One: The Great Design Race Get ready for the Formula One Grand Prix scheduled for October with this exhibit about the race to design the perfect car. Seoul Arts Center. 11 am – 8 pm. Adults W12,000, teens W10,000, children W8,000. sac.or.kr/f1

October 22nd – 28th Seoul S/S Fashion Week Preview new styles and hot trends for the next fashion season. seoulfashionweek.org

Art Every Saturday Hongdae Free Market It’s called “free,” not “flea,” because the objects on sale here are hand-crafted by the vendors and not second-hand products. Held in the playground across from Hongik University (line 2). 1 - 6 pm. cafe.daum.net/ artmarket, artfreemarket@hanmail.net Through October 3rd The Calligraphy of Sang-hyeon Lee Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). 10:30 am – 10:30 pm.

Dark Mondays. sejongpac.or.kr Through October 10th Asian Realism Almost 100 paintings by artists from ten Asian countries. National Museum of Contemporary Art, Deoksugung Palace branch. City Hall St. (line 1, ex. 2). Closed Mon. 10 am – 5 pm.

Sat 10 am – 8 pm. Adults W5,000, teens W2,500. moca.go.kr 02-2022-0600 “Memories in Progress”: Jarmo Maekilae and Mohamad-Said Baalbaki Maekilae is from Finland, Baalbaki from Lebanon. Michael Schultz Gallery in Cheongdam-dong. 02-546-7955 Through October 31st Golden Splendors: The Royal Tomb of Silla “Hwangnamdaechong” National Museum of Korea. Tues – Sun 10 am, 11 am, 1 pm, 2 pm, 3 pm, 4 pm.

02-2077-9347 Through November 7th Over The Rainbow 1 Nine artists present Dorothy as she makes nine bizarre journeys through time and space. Sungkok Art Museum near Gwanghwamun St (line 5). 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W5,000, students W4,000. sungkokmuseum.com 02-737-8999 The Masters of Korean Modern and Contemporary Art 63 Sky Art at the 63 Building. Adults W12,000, teens W11,000, children W10,000. 63.co.kr 02-789-5663 Through November 14th White Porcelain Jars: Embracing Joseon Ideals and Rituals These

E DITOR’ S PICK

Art October 29th - December 9th

National Geographic Photo Exhibition

Through November 14th Movies in Seoul: 70s and 80s Last year’s exhibit was on movies from the 50s and 60s, and this year material from the next two decades is on display.

Cheonggyecheon Museum. Free. cgcm.go.kr 02-2286-3410 Through November 17th Media City Seoul This is the 6th Seoul International Biennale of Media Art, held at the Seoul Museum of Art and other venues. Free. See article on p. 16. mediacityseoul.org

SEOUL

October 15th – 17th Gangnam Fashion Festival Shopoholics will be in heaven at this festival that stretches over three different areas in Gangnam. Fashion designers, fashion shows, outdoor bazaars and markets galore. COEX Piano Fountain Square, Dosan Park and Garosugil. fashionfestival.or.kr 02-3447-0428

delicate and intricately designed white porcelain jars shed light on the Joseon Dynasty. National Museum of Korea, Ichon St. (line 4, ex. 2). Tue, Wed, Fri 9 am – 6 pm. Wed, Sat 9 am – 8 pm. Sun 9 am – 7 pm. museum.go.kr 02-2077-9000

Through November 21st Korean Avant-Garde Drawing Takes a closer look at some of the best drawings of the past 30 years. Soma Museum. 10 am – 6 pm. Adults W3,000, teens W2,000, children W1,000. somamuseum.or.kr 02-425-1077 Through November 28th Inside Paul Smith Don’t miss this chance to see Paul Smith’s first art exhibit ever in Korea. Daelim Contemporary Art Museum. 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W4,000, students W2,000. daelimmuseum.org 02-720-0667 Through December 26th “Flight” Exhibit A number of young Korean artists explore the themes of youth, challenge, and the future. Mapo Arts Center. 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Free September 28th - February 27th Leonardo da Vinci: The Genius Who Changed The World Discover the 25 secrets of the Mona Lisa. The War Museum in Yongsan near Samgakji Stn. (lines 4 & 6, ex. 12). davincithegenius.co.kr 1544-1555 October 1st – 13th Manif Seoul International Art Fair Hangaram Art Museum. 11 am – 8 pm. sac.or.kr 02-514-9292

© Bobby Haas / National Geographic

Continued from p. 39 the beauty and sorrow of the world today. With the 200 pictures in this exhibit, viewers can revisit historical moments and powerful scenes from past issues of the magazine. The exhibit is divided into four sections. Scenes from Nature takes a look at the earth, sea, and sky; The Drama of Life examines scenes from animal life; Tears of the Earth reveals how we are harming the earth; and A Tiny Hope zooms in on eco-friendly lifestyles. Exhibit held at the Seoul Art Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 6). Adults W10,000, teens W8,000, children W6,000. www.ngphoto.co.kr 1544-1681 Become a model for Marie & M and get a free makeover

October 5th – 8th Korea Crafts & Arts Prizes Displaying the 245 winning submissions in the competition. aT Center in Yangjae-dong. 10 am – 6 pm. Free. kocap.or.kr 02-2698-0003 October 5th – 10th Seoul Architecture Festival Learn about the dynamic history and architecture of Seoul. Dongdaemun History and Culture Park. saf2010.org 02-3676-1021 October 6th - November 2nd Michael Anderson Solo Exhibition “Happy Mascots” Jay Gallery in HBC. jaypia.com 02-2666-4450 October 11th – 15th PAMS 2010 PAMS (Performing Arts Market in Seoul) is a festival that features theater, dance, music and multidisciplinary art performances by domestic and international performing arts professionals. National Theater of Korea. pams.or.kr 02-708-2276

Theater & Dance Ongoing The Ballerina Who Loved a B-Boy This story of a would-be ballerina who falls for a b-boy street dancer is a genre-bending mash-up of break dance and ballet. Lotte World Art Hall at Jamsil St. (line 2). Wed – Thu 8 pm, Fri 5 & 8 pm, Sat – Sun 3 & 6 pm. Dark Mon & Tue. W50,000. showbboy.com 02-2266-3727

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10 Magazine October 2010 | 47

SEOUL CALENDAR E DITOR’ S PICK

SEOUL

Theater & Dance September 30th – October 20th

Seoul International Dance Festival (SIDance) From Seogang University to the Seoul Arts Center, performing arts centers across Seoul are presenting three weeks of world-quality dance. In previous years, SIDance focused on famous pieces by troupes from advanced countries, but this year the organizers are narrowing in on more experimental, less mainstream compositions from non-European countries. For a glance at dance in the Middle East, try 4 Men, Alice, Bach and the Deer by Israelis Yossi Berg and Oded Graf (10/9) or The Assassination of Omar Rajeh by Lebanese Omar Rajeh (10/16).

Another fun option is the Dancing City program, which brings the dance to parks, cafes, and streets in Mullae-dong and Yeouido Hangang Park. W20,000 – W70,000 (except Dancing City, which is free). sidance.org 02-3216-1185 Battle B-Boy Romance at a dance tournament serves as the setting for this exhibition of awesome dance routines and soaring aerial moves. Hongdae. Tue - Fri 8 pm Sat 6 pm, Sun 2 pm.

W50,000. sjbboys.com 02-323-5233 Billy Elliot: The Musical Since its release in 2005, the musical Billy Elliot (based on the 2000 movie) has won dozens of awards and has been staged successfully in major venues across the worldwide. In Korean. LG Arts Center by Yeoksam St. (line 2, ex. 7). Weekdays 8 pm, Weekends 2 & 7:30 pm, dark Mon. W50,000 – W130,000. lgart.com 02-2005-0114 Bubble World Though geared toward younger children, anyone can enjoy this creative presentation of bubbles, fans, lighting, and lasers. Myungbo Art Hall in Jongno. Wed 3 pm, Thu & Fri 3 pm & 8 pm, weekend 2 & 4:30 pm (and 8 pm on Sat). bubbleworld.co.kr 02-2263-9742

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Drawing Show Art exhibit or performance? The drawing show is as fun to watch as it is hard to classify.

Drawing Show Theater in Daehangno in Seoul (Hyehwa Station, exit 1).

Weekdays 8 pm. Sat 4 pm, 7 pm. Sun 3 pm, 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W30,000, children W20,000. cafe.daum.net/ drawingshow 02-766-7848

Korea House Performance Head over to the Korea House for two daily performances based on traditional Korean culture. You can also sample Korean royal cuisine before the show.

Chungmuro Stn. (lines 3 & 4, ex. 3). 7 – 8 pm, 8:50 – 9:50 pm. Dinner starts at W68,000. Performance is W50,000. kangkoku.or.kr/eng 02-2266-9101 Legend of Flower This romantic tale of two lovers redefines what a performance can be with stunning sound effects, tantalizing aromas, holographs, and more. Walkerhill Theatre at the Sheraton Grande Walkerhill. Mon – Sat 5:30 & 7 pm. W60,000 and up. legendofflower.com 02-455-5000 Miso Chongdong Theater presents Miso, a story of one woman’s encounter with love told through traditional dance, percussion, and music. City Hall Station.

4 pm & 8 pm. Closed Mon. W30,000 – W50,000. miso.mct.or.kr/eng 02-751-1500

Fanta-stick This slapstick nonverbal show offers young ones lots of laughs.

Conveniently located at the 63 Building in Yeouido. Tue - Sun 8 pm. W32,000 W50,000. fanta-stick.co.kr 02-789-5664

“Like” us on Facebook today! www.facebook.com/10magazine 48 | 10 Magazine October 2010

Jump First performed in 2003, this non-verbal show combines a comic story with martial arts moves and impressive visuals. Downtown near Jonggak Stn. Mon 8 pm, Tue – Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun 3 & 6 pm. W40,000 – W50,000. www.hijump.co.kr 02-722-3995

Nanta This kitchen percussion extravaganza is the non-verbal stage show that nearly everyone sees at least once. Two Seoul locations and performances almost daily. Refer to

E DITOR’ S PICK

Theater & Dance October 2nd – November 14th

Seoul Performing Arts Festival (SPAF)

SEOUL

This month, SPAF will be setting the stage on fire with 28 performances from 8 countries. Based on the theme of “SPAF Strikes Sparks,” this innovative festival will offer stimulating and thought-provoking performances by the acclaimed dance acts on the program. Find yourself mesmerized by Michèle Noiret’s body-based choreography in Demain, amused by the nakedness, naivety and grotesqueness in Marisa Godoy’s Please, surprised by the relationships between humans and mannequins in Showroomdummies, and enchanted by the elements of classical and modern dance in Anthony Égéa’s Urban Ballet. Each of the shows is introduced in detail at the excellent English website. Book your tickets from the festival’s official website or Interpark (ticket.interpark.com). Prices and venues vary. spaf.or.kr/2010english 02-3673-2565 website for more details. W50,000 – W60,000. nanta.co.kr 02-739-8288 Nori Madang Traditional Performance Every Sunday at 3 pm, Korean dancers and singers present you with all the vivid colors and exotic sounds of a traditional performance. Free. At Sokchon Lake Park near Jamsil Stn. (line 2, ex. 3). 02-120 Pan An exciting combination of Korean folk songs, minstrel music, and percussion of all kinds. Gwanghwamun Art Hall. Weekdays at 7:30 pm, weekends at 4 pm, closed Mon and Tue. 90 min. W30,000 – W50,000. www.ghmarthall.co.kr 02-722-3416 Sa-Choom An exciting non-verbal dance performance telling the story of three friends’ coming of age. Tue – Fri 8 pm. Sat 4 pm and 7:30 pm. Sun 4 pm.

W50,000. lovedance.co.kr, mr4u@nate. com 070-8249-3023 Through October 10th Rocky Horror Show Korea has seen a local version of the British musical, but this is the first time for the original (English-speaking!) cast and creative team to perform here. COEX Artium.

W66,000 - W110,000. 02-501-7888 Through October 24th Romeo and Juliet: Musical Play With the Mokhwa Repertory Company.

Korean language. Sejong Center. Weekdays 8 pm, weekends 3 pm. Dark Mondays.

Adults W30,000, minors W20,000 Through October 31st Grease: The Musical In Korean.

Chungmu Art Hall, Sindang Stn. (line 6, ex. 9), W30,000 – W70,000. cmah.or.kr 02-2230-6600 Through November 7th Theatre Olympics The 5th Theatre Olympics will attract hundreds of

performers, directors and writers from all over the world. Performances take place at the National Theater of Korea, Arko City and the Myeongdong Arts Theater.

Detailed schedule available on the website. theatreolympics.or.kr 02-747-2901 Through November 21st 42nd Street: The Musical In Korean.

Charlotte Theater. Mon, Tue, Thu 8 pm; Wed, Fri, Sat 3 pm. Dark Sun. W30,000 – W120,000. charlottetheater.co.kr 1644-0078 October 7th – 10th Prince Igor: the Opera One of Russia’s most famous operas will be performed by the Russia Novosibirsk State Academic Opera and Ballet. Seoul Arts Center. Thu & Fri 7:30 pm, Sat 5 pm, Sun 4pm. W50,000 – W250,000. sac.or.kr 02-2650-7481 October 9th Nirvana Nights Vol. 2: “A Cinderella Story” Professional bellydance of all genres by 20 performers from Japan, Korea, Canada, America, and Russia.

Theater Zero in Hongdae. 6 – 8:30 pm.

W20,000. theater0.com October 14th – 17th Andrea Chenier: The Opera With the Seoul Opera Troupe. Sejong Center. Thu - Fri 7:30 pm, Sat 3 & 7:30 pm, Sun 5 pm. W20,000 – W120,000. sejongpac.or.kr 02-399-1783 October 20th – 23rd Mefistofele: the Opera Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm. W10,000 – W150,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 October 29th – November 5th La Bayadere: the Ballet A tragedy of love, betrayal and revenge set in exotic India. Seoul Arts Center. Weekdays 7:30 pm, Sat 3 pm & 7:30 pm, Sun 3 pm.

10 Magazine October 2010 | 49

SEOUL CALENDAR E DITOR’ S PICK

Rufus Wainwright Concert October 10th

SEOUL

Witty lyrics, classical flourishes, and a gorgeous baritone— not to mention a reputation for a riotous lifestyle—have brought singer-songwriter Rufus Wainwright well-deserved recognition.

His albums Rufus Wainwright and Poses both received Juno Awards for Best Alternative Album, and Elton John even called Wainwright “the greatest songwriter on the planet.” On the tour circuit with his new album All Days Are Nights: Songs For Lulu, Wainwright will give Seoul residents their first chance to judge whether his art is show or substance. Following a song cycle of his latest work backed with video art by Scottish artist Douglas Gordon, Wainwright will turn to favorite tunes from earlier albums. AX-Korea (formerly Melon AX-Hall) near Gwangnaru Stn. (line 5, ex. 2). 6 pm. Tickets available through Interpark (ticket.interpark.com/global) or Private Curve (privatecurve.com). info@privatecurve.com 02-563-0595 Words by Dav id Ca r ruth

Closed on Nov 1. W10,000 – W100,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300

September 30th - October 2nd Keith Wyatt Concert Baekam Art Hall.

W20,000 – W40,000. baekamhall.com 02-443-9020

French Avignon Orchestra Yeruham Scharovsky will lead this French orchestra in its performance of Charles Gounod’s Symphony for Wind Instruments and Bizet’s Symphony in C. Nowon Culture and Arts Center. 5 pm. W40,000 –W50,000. nowonart.kr 02-951-3355

October 1st KBS Philharmonic Orchestra Saint-Saëns’ Piano Concerto No. 2 in G minor and Berlioz’ Symphonie Fantastique. Seoul Arts Center. 8pm.

W20,000 – W55,000. sac.or.kr

Oboe Ensemble “The Piri” Handel’s “Arrival of the Queen of Sheba” from Solomon, Mozart’s Fantasia in F Minor for a Mechanical Organ, and others. Seoul Arts Center. 3 pm.

W30,000. sac.or.kr 02-585-2934

October 2nd Let’s Spris Rock Festival Top Korean indie groups including No Brain, KOXX, Galaxy Express, and Rubber Ducky.

Nanji Area at the Han River Park. letsrock.co.kr

October 9th – 10th Renaissance Concert Mapo Arts Center. Sat 7 pm, Sun 6 pm. W110,000 – W130,000. mapoartcenter.or.kr 02-3274-8600

Concerts

Michel Moragues Flute Recital Sejong Center. 8 pm. W20,000 – W50,000. sejongpac.or.kr 02-3491-2370 Yuhki Kuramoto in Concert: Piano Poem Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm.

W30,000 – W100,000, sac.or.kr October 2nd – 3rd “Sing Sing Sing” Free Concert Featuring the Percussion and Wind Ensemble with Gwang-seo Park. Outdoor stage at Seoul Arts Center. 6 pm. sac.or.kr October 3rd GAS Concert Wolfgang Voigt from Cologne transcends the divide between high and low culture by mixing techno and classical music. National Theater of Korea. W20,000. hyun-woo.cho@seoul. goethe.org 02-2021-2821 Inger Marie Gundersen Mapo Arts Center. 6 pm. W30,000 – W60,000. mapoartcenter.or.kr 02-3274-8600 Marina Piccinini Flute Recital Seoul Arts Center. 3 pm. W30,000. sac.or.kr 02-514-9600 October 4th – 9th Free Concerts at Seoul Plaza 10/4: Autumn Concert I. 10/5: Autumn Concert II. 10/7: Rudiger and Friends Concert. 10/9: Last Performance. 7:30 pm each night. City Hall Stn. (lines 1 & 2), ex. 5. casp.or.kr 02-1330 October 6th Keith Jarrett, Gary Peacock, and Jack Dejohnette in Concert Sejong Center. 8 pm. W50,000 – W200,000. sejongpac.or.kr 02-399-1114 Red Army Chorus & Dance Ensemble Sejong Center. 7:30 pm.

W50,000 – W200,000. sejongpac.or.kr 02-548-4480 October 6th – 27th Indie Wednesdays at LIG Art Hall Free indie music every Wednesday at lunch time at LIG Art Hall near Gangnam Stn. (line 2, ex. 8). ligarthall.com 02-6900-3900 October 8th Denis Sungho & Alcan Quartet Mapo Arts Center. 8 – 10 pm. W30,000 – W50,000. mapoartcenter.or.kr 02-3274-8600 October 9th Budapest Festival Orchestra Tchaikovsky’s Piano Concerto No. 1, Bartók’s Concerto for Orchestra, and more. Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm. W30,000 – W170,000. sac.or.kr 02-2000-6309 Fall HBC Fest Phillies, The Orange Tree, and other venues in Haebangchon host this spring and fall music festival.

50 | 10 Magazine October 2010

Noksapyeong Stn. (line 6, ex. 2). deeleebob.com/hbcfest.htm

October 10th Indiana University Alumni Concert Kumho Art Hall near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5). kumhoarthall.co.kr 02-6303-7700 October 14th John O’Conner Piano Recital Kumho Art Hall near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5). 8 pm. Adults W20,000 – W30,000, students W8,000. kumhoarthall.co.kr 02-6303-7700 Three Great B’s Series: Beethoven Beethoven’s Piano Concerto No.3 in C minor and Symphony No.3 in Eb Major (Eroica). Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm. W20,000 – W40,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 October 15th French Folk Song Night Kumho Art Hall near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5). kumhoarthall.co.kr 02-6303-7700 Juergen Ruck Guitar Concert Nowon Culture and Arts Center. 7:30 pm. W15,000 – W20,000. nowonart.kr 02-951-3355 October 16th The Advantage Live in Concert Button-mashers and Nintendo masters will love this band dedicated to performing hip versions of 8-bit video game tunes. club Freebird in Hongdae. supercolorsuper.com Santo Oro Jazz Concert Dream Forest Art Center near Miasamgeori Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). 6 pm. dfac.or.kr 02-2289-5401 Yeon-hwa Jeong Harp Recital Kumho Art Hall near Gwanghwamun Stn. 8 pm. Adults W10,000, students W8,000. kumhoarthall.co.kr 02-6303-7700 October 21st Placebo Live in Seoul AX Live Hall near Gwangnaru St. (line 5, ex. 2). 8 pm.

W99,000. ax-korea.com 02-517-0394 October 22nd M4One Chamber Ensemble Bach’s Brandenburg Concerto No. 3 and other pieces. Hoam Art Hall, 8pm, W30,000. hoamarthall.org 02-725-3342 October 23th Tera Melos Live in Concert Innovative math rock band Tera Melos push the musical envelope. Seoul, location TBA.supercolorsuper.com October 23rd - 24th Grand Mint Festival No K-pop seeking teeny-boppers here. Targeting a more mature and sophisticated crowd, this yearly musical festival has four stages with alternative Korean acts such as Kingston Rudieska, Clazziquai Project, and Sister’s Barbershop. Olympic Park near Mongchontoseong Stn. (line 5).

E DITOR’ S PICK

Concert

Acoustic Showdown at Rocky Mountain Tavern October 29th – November 19th

I

SEOUL

f you’re musically inclined or just inclined to listen to some music, you may want to swing

by Rocky Mountain Tavern toward the end of the month for the Acoustic Showdown.

This musical competition, held at the Canadian-run Itaewon establishment for the 6th year in a row, brings guests the excitement of some serious prize money and the good vibes you might expect from a musical festival. To be sure, lots of venues host competitions for bands, but where else can you find an unplugged musical battle?

Over past years, the event has been successful at offering musicians throughout Korea an audience for their talent and a chance to meet folks with similar interests. And while many on stage are just there to have a bit of fun, other artists take the event quite seriously. There’s every reason to do so, with W1 million of cash and prizes at stake, including studio time at Lance Reegan-Diehl’s Deeleebob Studio in Haebangchon.

Acoustic Showdown begins with preliminary rounds on October 29th, November 5th, November 12th, with the finals following on November 19th.

The rules are simple: one musician, one acoustic instrument (guitar, piano, or violin/fiddle), and one mic. The session will be judged according to criteria such as originality, cover quality, and entertainment, and the winners of each preliminary round will return to Rocky Mountain Tavern for the finals. If you think you’ve got what it takes, contact Jamie (010-5189-2327) to sign up in advance.

Rocky Mountain Tavern is located a few minutes from Itaewon Stn. (line 6, ex. 3). Show starts at 10 pm. No cover. For more info, see rockymountaintavern.com or “Rocky Mountain Tavern” group on Facebook.

10 Magazine October 2010 | 51

SEOUL CALENDAR E DITOR’ S PICK

Nightlife October 9th

W66,000/W75,000 for one day, W99,000/ W110,000 for two days in advance/at the door. grandmintfestival.com October 23rd - 26th Voice Performance: “Dok” Explore the source of human voice at this interactive performance. National Theater of Korea.

Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 3 pm, Tue 8 pm.

W20,000. ntok.go.kr 02-889-3561

Global Gathering 2010 This electronic musical festival has DJs from all genres to stimulate the senses and keep the feet moving until the early hours.

October 24th Lucerne Festival Strings Featuring the world-famous chamber orchestra from Switzerland. Dream Forest Art Center near Miasamgeori Stn. (line 4, ex. 2).

5 pm. dfac.or.kr 02-2289-5401

W o r d s b y S e bast i e n R o uss e t Fatboy Slim

SEOUL

October 26th Sejong Soloists Society: The Red Priest Series II Hoam Art Hall. 8 pm.

W30,000. hoamarthall.org 02-751-9607 October 30th Pregnant and Mason Lindahl Double Tour To perform in the Round Robin at Club Freebird in Hongdae. supercolorsuper.com

October 9th Seoul Fireworks Festival Join the crowds for a free fireworks show at the Han River Park in Yeouido.

Starts at 5 pm. Free. 02-120

Film

T

Like last year, Global Gathering will be taking place at the popular Nanji area of the Han River Park. Buses are scheduled to leave every 15 minutes (1:30 pm – 5 am) from Sangsu Stn. (line 6, ex. 1) in Hongdae.

L o cat i o n

The longer you wait, the steeper they get. W77,000 before October 1st, W88,000 from October 1st – 7th, and W99,000 at the “door” (more accurately, “tent”).

T i ck e ts

Starting September 30th Theatrical Release of Resilience Directed by Tammy Chu, a KoreanAmerican filmmaker and adoptee living in Seoul, this film takes a close look at international adoption from the perspective of a Korean birth mother and her American son. With so many obstacles – language, culture, distance, and unspoken loss – can two strangers become mother and son? Screened at ArtSonje Center in Seoul (artsonje.org/ eng) near Anguk Stn. (line 3). W8,000. resiliencefilm.com, reservation@koroot.org

Family & Community Ongoing Can You Drive a Subway Train?

With the Seoul Metropolitan Rapid Transit Corporation, the answer is yes!

Every Sat and Sun from 2 – 6 pm, four lucky souls will get to take the wheel of one designated train. Applications available at smrt.co.kr 02-6311-2200 Namsangol Korean Style Culture Outing The Namsangol Hanok Village gives you your daily dose of Korean style.

Try calligraphy in Hangeul, learn how to drink tea properly, wear some hanbok, make hanji (Korean paper), or play gugak (traditional music). Namsangol Hanok Village near Chungmuro Stn. (lines 3 and 4, ex. 4). 11 am – 5 pm. Activities range from W3,000 – W8,000. hanokmaeul. seoul.go.kr 02-2266-6923 Traditional Cultural Performance “Misuda” Try on traditional garb, snack on Korean food, and hear the music that might have been played for King Sejong himself. Located at the Seoul Namsan Traditional Theater near Chungmuro Stn. (line 3). 4 pm. W50,000. sngad.or.kr 02-2261-0512 Traditional Wedding Ceremony Held every Sunday at 3 pm at the Namsan Hanok (traditional Korean house) Village near Chungmuro Stn. (line 3 & 4, ex. 3). visitseoul.net 02-2266-6923

Armin Van Buuren

52 | 10 Magazine October 2010

Justice

Through February 28th Children’s Nanta Activity at COEX Nanta is the popular non-verbal percussion show. Sessions held several times each day. COEX Atium Performance Hall near Samsung Stn. (line 2, ex. 6). Adults W13,000, children W20,000. i-pmc.co.kr October 2nd – 10th Hi Seoul Festival Spots all along the Han River in Seoul will turn into festival venues hosting 200 non-verbal, mime, and circus performances from 13 countries. Jazz fans in particular will want to visit Seonyudo near Yanghwa Bridge for “Jazz in Seonyudo.” All events are free. hiseoulfest.org 02-1330

October 31st Radu Lupu Piano Recital In the Mists

by Leoš Janácek, Beethoven’s Piano Sonata No. 23 Appassionata, and Schubert’s Piano Sonata in B flat Major.

Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm. W50,000 W130,000. sac.or.kr 02-541-6235

he announcement of Global Gathering 2010 about a month ago has created an aura of anticipation in techno circles. For those new to the scene, Global Gathering is an annual dance music festival first established in England in 2001.

It’s now held in countries worldwide and attracts over a quarter of a million clubbers each year.

Big names like The Prodigy, Underworld, and Röyksopp introduced Global Gathering to Korean audiences for the first time last year, but this year’s line-up is just as strong. Thanks to Angel Music Group, VU entertainment, Blue Spirit, and MNET, festival goers will be treated to a trio of noteworthy headliners: Fatboy Slim, inventor of the big-beat sound; Justice, the electro duo notorious for their distorted bass and rock opera-esque synth lines, and Dutch producer Armin Van Buuren, voted top DJ in DJ Magazine for three years in a row. In addition to the big names, the festival organizers have arranged for a stacked local line-up to fill in the gaps.

Sample Korean talent with up-and-comers Idiotape, electro heads Shut Da Mouth, the crowd-electrifying MC X, and others. Load up the English section of the website for a complete line-up and detailed schedule. globalgatheringkorea.co.kr 02-323-2838

and the Yongsan Korean Cultural Center (02-701-1747). koreawave.org 02-1330

Through October 3rd Namsan International Folklore Festival Folk art from around the world.

Events held at the Namsan Hanok Village

Education & Conferences Every Thursday and Saturday Meeting of the Mindz Language Exchange Want to work on your language skills? This free program is your chance to start. Manhattan in Itaewon. 7 – 9 pm. info@iconzmedia.com Through October 3rd Amusement Book Project An exhibit dedicated to the art of self-publishing. Sangsang Madang in Hongdae. 1 – 10 pm. Free. 02-3141-7030 Educare Fall 2010 for Children Find the latest products and programs to aid your child’s development. COEX. 10 am – 6 pm. Adults W5,000, children W3,000. Preregister for free admission. educare.co.kr Through November 30th Korean War Exhibition The artifacts, pictures, and videos here tell the story of the Korean War and its effects on the following 60 years. War Memorial near Samgakji Stn. (line 4 & 2, ex. 12). koreanwar60.go.kr 02-709-3139 Through December 31st UNESCO World Heritages in Korea Learn more about the UNESCO intangible cultural heritages and world heritage sites located in Korea through this photo exhibit. Lotte World with access from inside Jamsil Stn. (line 2 & 8). lotteworld.com 02-411-2000 October 1st Club Culture and German Reunification Panel Dealing with the sociopolitical impact of techno culture.

Platoon Kunsthalle. 8:30 pm. kunsthalle.com 02-3447-1191 October 26th RASKB Lecture: Haunted Seoul Historian Robert Neff (see p. 22) will deliver a lecture on Korean superstitions and ghost stories. Somerset Palace near Anguk Stn. (line 3). W5,000 for nonmembers. raskb.com 02-763-9483

Sport & Fitness Through November Sanirang Climbing Clinics Every Wednesday, Sanirang Alpine Networks offers hopeful climbers with an open clinic from 9 am - noon. These clinics teach the basics that every alpineer should know. All gear provided. Firsttimers W25,000, returnees W15,000. sanirang.net, sanirang.info@gmail.com

October 10th Seoul Bicycle Ride with 350.org Promote alternative modes of transport with this 3.5 mile bike ride from Mapo Stn. (line 5) to Nanji Park by World Cup Stadium. 350.org/seoul-bicycle-ride October 24th NIKE We Run Marathon The festival runs from lunch until 9 pm, with the 10k scheduled for 4 pm. Register now as space is limited. Ttukseom Park near Ttukseom Resort Stn. (line 7, ex. 2).

W20,000. werunseoul.com 1666-6453 October 30th – 31st Korea International Walking Festival 5, 10, 30k options on both days.

Registration accepted on a first-comefirst-serve basis. walking.or.kr kapa7077@korea.com

Sonata K-League Football

Ongoing Club Day The best night to experience the Hongdae disco scene. On the last Friday of each month (October 29th), W20,000 gets you into 20 clubs. 11 pm – 5 am. Buy tickets at participating clubs like NB, M2, and Q-vo. One drink included. theclubday.co.kr Stand Up Seoul Comedy Night Korea’s finest English language comedians deliver monologues and rants about expat life and other topics. New acts are welcome! 9 pm the first Thursday of every month at the Rocky Mountain Tavern in Itaewon. Facebook: Stand Up Seoul, brianaylward11@hotmail.com October 1st Monaco Night De Drop in Cheongdam-dong. hskevents.kr October 2nd Hongdae Club Night: We Call It Techno German and Korean DJs team up for a night celebrating the reunification of Germany. Club Vera in Hongdae. 10 pm. projekt.kultur1@seoul. goethe.org 02-338-0957 The Lyricist Lounge Vol. 2 Local MC showcase, plus DJs, airbrush art & live open jam. W10,000 + 1 FD. Freebird, Hongdae. Facebook: “The Kids Want Hip Hop Seoul” 02-335-4576 Sex Sells: Sex Kills Vol. 1 Club Function in Itaewon. Ladies free until 11 pm. 010-4100-8487

3rd Seoul vs Incheon at 1 pm 9th Seoul vs Gyeonnam at 7 pm 31st Seoul vs Busan at 3 pm All games at Seoul World Cup Stadium

Dine & Drink Ongoing Korean Cooking Classes and Market Tour Learn authentic Korean cuisine in English from a Korean chef.

Classes held at the O’ngo Cooking Studio near Insadong (Nakwon Sangga).

After class, tour the market for your ingredients. Classes include dakgalbi (red chili chicken), haemul pajeon (seafood pancake), bulgogi, bibimbap, and more. Mon – Fri 10 am and 2 pm (special classes on Sat). dan@ongofood.com 02-3446-1607 Korean Night Dining Tour Take a crash course on Korea’s late-night food and drinking culture. Start at Kwangjang Market and continue to historic Jongno 3-ga where you can eat Korean BBQ, drink makgeolli (rice wine) and dine at a tent (pochamacha) restaurant. W80,000 per person (3 people minimum) includes food, drinks, and guide. Thu – Sat night from 7-10 pm. dan@ongofood.com 02-3446-1607 Korea Taste Tour Experience culture through cuisine! With your culinary guide, visit a Buddhist-inspired Korean restaurant, get a quick tour of Insadong eateries, stop by a teahouse, and enjoy rice wine and Korean bar food snacks.

W80,000 per person includes food, drinks, and tour guide. Tours are usually Thu – Sun (3 people minimum) 12 – 3 pm. dan@ongofood.com 02-3446-1607 Toque Diner’s Turkey Dinners Get your turkey fix with help from Toque Diner. Have a traditional turkey buffet set up at Toque Diner, or order half or whole turkeys with all of the fixings to enjoy at home. 02-794-3834

October 6th Lounge Party El Bliss in Hongdae. hskevents.kr October 7th First Thursday Afterwork Lugo in Cheongdam-dong. hskevents.kr

SEOUL

November 21st Gi-jeong Son Marathon Gi-jeong Son, a gold medallist in the Berlin Olympic in 1936, had to complete on the Japanese team since Korea was occupied at the time. Full, 32k, hall, 10k, and 5k at Jamsil Sports Complex. 8 pm.

W40,000 – W5,000. Sign up by Oct 15th. sonkijung.co.kr 02-723-1666

E DITOR’ S PICK

Nightlife

Education October 16th - 17th

PAC-KOTESOL Conference On October 16th, KOTESOL, a non-profit organization dedicated to English language education, will host the 2010 PAC Conference. This is a first time visit to Korea, and the annual event will focus on the theme of “Advancing ELT in the Global Context” while providing a forum for educators to share their unique experiences and hear acclaimed professors speak on various cross-cultural topics. The two-day event will take place at Sookmyung Women’s University and is expected to attract over 1,500 people. Make sure to pre-register for discounted admission prices. Lunch is not included in registration but will be provided by Suji’s Deli and Tomatillos Mexican restaurant. For Words by I na e Oh registration info, visit kotesol.org.

October 9th Global Gathering 2010 Korea’s second major dance music festival is heating up just as the weather cools. For the scoop, see the article on p. 52. Nanji Area in the Han River Park. globalgatheringkorea.co.kr October 14th Lounge Party Bliss in Itaewon. hskevents.kr October 15th Disco Night Sortino’s in Itaewon. hskevents.kr October 16th Word Food Presents the Beat Generation Live jazz, spoken word pieces with instrumentation, singers, dance performances, theater. Wear black, berets, your smoking jacket, and a cool attitude. wordfood.tumblr.com October 21st G.H.Mumm and Formula One Party Club Heaven in Gangnam. hskevents.kr Speed Dating with the Seoul Sisters The Seoul Sisters’ Rugby Club hosts its monthly speed dating event at Scrooges Pub (Dickens Bar, 3rd Floor) in Itaewon.

First round starts 8:30 pm, second round 9:15 pm. W10,000. seoulsisters827@gmail.com October 22nd Seoul Is Burning Mansion in Hongdae. hskevents.kr October 23th DJ Joey Negro (AKA Dave Lee) Club Heaven in Gangnam. hskevents.kr October 30th Raving Mad: Halloween Rave Location revealed a week before. secondfromthesun@gmail.com

10 Magazine October 2010 | 53

SEOUL DIRECTORY WOW Corea Tour wowcoreatour.com

02-739-3337

Classes

Seoul Automobiles

bebop-guesthouse.com, 070-8261-4835 Kim’s Guesthouse Hongdae kimsguesthouse.com 02-337-9894 Namu Guesthouse Hongdae namugh.co.kr 070-8291-4878 Olympic Parktel Jamsil parktel.co.kr/english 02-410-2114 Seoul Backpackers Myeongdong seoulbackpackers.com 02-3672-1972

Pottery Classes at Yido Academy Gahoe-dong in Seoul. Fri 10 - 12 am. yidostyle@hanmail.net 02-744-0756 Salsa Lessons in English Top Bar near Apgujeong St. Call Crys at 010-4755-4728 Sanirang Alpine Networks This climbing service offers lessons, clinics, and guided tours. sanirang.net/about. html, info@sanirang.net

Foreigner Assistance

SEOUL

NEW CARS FOR LEASE Gyung Bok Agency

010-3524-8260 Gyung Bok Agency Take the wheel of a premium Hyundai with the Gyung Bok Agency’s lease program. 1-year, 2-year, and 3-year leases available.

921-1 Daechi-Dong, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul. Contact Chief Sales Manager Hank Jo at 010-3524-8260.

Insurance

t $"3 .0503$:$-& t

INSURANCE For A Free Quote,

Call Byung at 010-3232-0625 or Email: byung625@gmail.com

Hotels/Accommodations

KoreaHotel.com Korea’s version of Expedia. koreahotel.com 4-5 Star Hotels Astoria 02-2268-7111 COEX InterContinental 02-3452-2500 Courtyard 02-2638-3000 Grand InterContinental 02-555-5656 JW Marriott 02-6282-6262 Millenium Hilton 02-753-7788 Renaissance 02-555-0501 Ritz-Carlton 02-3451-8000 Hostels Guest House Baenang Yongsan ghbaenang.com 010-9071-4641 Guesthouse Korea Jongno guesthouseinkorea.com 02-3674-2205 Bebop Guesthouse Hongdae

54 | 10 Magazine October 2010

Museums

Gahoe Museum gahoemuseum.org 02-741-0466 World Jewelry Museum wjmuseum.com 02-730-1610 Kimchi Field Museum kimchimuseum.co.kr 02-6002-6456 Kyung-in Museum of Fine Art Kyunginart.co.kr 02-733-4448 Leeum Samsung Museum of Art leeum.org 02-2014-6901 Museum of Korean Traditional Music ncktpa.go.kr 02-580-3130 National Folk Museum nfm.go.kr 02-3704-3114 National Museum of Korea museum.go.kr 02-2077-9000 National Palace Museum of Korea gogung.go.kr 02-3701-7500 Seoul Art Center sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Seoul Museum of Art seoulmoa.seoul.go.kr 02-120 Seoul National Science Museum ssm.go.kr 02-3668-2200 War Memorial warmemo.or.kr 02-709-3139 Transportation

International Taxi (English Speaking)

1644-2255 Jumbo Taxi Service (more expensive)

02-888-2000 Interactive Subway Map smrt.co.kr Travel Agencies

Cosmo.jin Tour cosmojin.com Fides Travel fidestravel.co.kr Unique Travel Itaewon uniquetravel.co.kr Xanadu Travel xanadu.co.kr

02-318-0345 02-755-5470 02-792-0606 02-795-7771

Access Consciousness What if the life you imagined was actually possible?

Regular classes held in Seoul & around Korea. Contact Nate at 010-6285-6283 or nhkent@gmail.com Bellydance Lessons with Belynda Azhaar W20,000 per 90 minute session. azhaardance.com Bellydance Lessons with Eshe Morning, afternoon, and evening classes, plus Sunday classes at the Well Being Studio. navah@live.com Fine Art Class Myeongdong 7 -1 pm Fridays. cafe.daum.net/artd

02-771-2026 International Guides of Korea Courses in ice climbing, rock climbing and more. iguidekorea.com Jai Center for Yoga and Health jaicenter.co.kr 02-3443-9642

Studio-X-Fitness An expat-operated, personal and small group training studio. Highly-qualified foreign and Korean instructors dedicated to providing the most complete and optimized fitness experience. studio-x-fitness.com 02-794-3330 Suseonjae Meditation and Deep Breathing Classes jihye@suseonjae.org 019-201-5958 Wise-Up Workouts Lose weight and get lean in less than 30 days guaranteed? Author and creator of the No. 1 gym-free program is now in Korea. 1 to 1 service. Grab the book “Wise-Up Workouts� at www. wiseupworkouts.com 010-4998-8722 Medical Services

A Plus Dental aplusdental.co.kr

Jazz Rock Blues R&B Funk KB Bank

LEADERS MUSIC ACADEMY

02-3442-7616

GANGNAM CHIRO-PILATES CHIROPRACTIC & PILATES

SUBWAY LINE 4,7 ISU St.

3 MINUTE WALK FROM ISU STATION (LINE 4,7) EXIT #4

Leaders Music Academy Whether you’re interested in jazz, blues, R&B, or funk, the graduates of Berklee College of Music teaching at this academy can help you achieve your musical goals.

Lessons offered for voice, piano, guitar, bass, and drums. leadersmusic.com

02-6085-8727 / 010-5316-2331 Plaisir Gourmand Do you want to learn how to make tasty Korean food? Plaisir Gourmand cooking studio is the perfect choice. A famous Korean chef offers an English-language cooking demonstration plus hands-on cooking and tasting. Located right in front of Gangnam Stn. Various class times available. blog.naver.com/plaisir_g 02-3482-7482

Dr. Andrew Park r 6 4 /BUJPOBM #PBSE $IJSPQSBDUJD %PDUPS r $FSUJĂ FE *#5 r $FSUJĂ FE &YFSDJTF SFIBC Sin-nonhyun St. Exit #6 Subway Line 7 Kyobo bldg.

Center Plaza Bldg 5F,510 Woori bank BurgerKing

BodyShop

Gangnam St. Exit #6

Hannam Bridge

Samsung Fire and Marine Insurance Automobile and motorcycle insurance provided by one of Korea’s most reliable conglomerates. Also available; Life/ Annuities, Business/Fire, Supplemental Medical, Travel Insurance. 010-3232-0625

ATEK (Association for Teachers of English in Korea) atek.or.kr Seoul Dasan (City Info) 02-120 Seoul Global Center global.seoul.go.kr 02-1688-0120 Yeoksam English 02-3453-9038 Yeonnam Chinese 02-6406-8151 Seorae French 02-570-6009 Ichon Japanese 02-760-2018 Itaewon/Hannam English 02-796-2459

Subway Line 2

(02) 533-5124

APPOINTMENT FREE consultation by appointment

Korean Tours

www.seoulchiropracticinfo.com

Adventure Korea adventurekorea.com 018-242-5536 Korean Safari koreansafari.com 019-542-2955 O’ngo Culinary Tours Korean Food Tours and Cooking Classes in Seoul.

Tours and classes are taught by Korean food experts. Experience the culture through the cuisine. ongofood.com 010-6661-7769 Royal Asiatic Society Korea Branch raskb.com 02-763-9483 USO DMZ Tours affiliates.uso.org/korea 02-795-3028

Gangnam Chiro-Pilates Chiropractic & Pilates If you’re dealing with joint and muscle ailments, English-speaking chiropractic doctor Dr. Andrew Park offers the best treatments to restore balance to your body. Stop in for a free consultation if you have symptoms including neck pain, sore back, headaches, scoliosis, numbness, wrist pain, sports injuries (golf) etc. Seochodong 1307-7 Center Plaza 5F 510. seoulchiropracticinfo.com 02-533-5124 Hus Hu Dental & Skin Clinic hus-hu.com 02-519-8013

Advertise in our Directory!

It’s inexpensive and helps expats and tourists find YOU! marketing@10magazine.asia

or 02-3447-1611

Restaurants

American Chili King Itaewon Beefy burgers and chili served up by owner Kevin Cyr.

02-795-1303

SEOUL

Jaseng Hospital of Oriental Medicine Are you suffering from back or neck pain? Visit the non-surgical spinal specialists. jaseng.net 02-3218-2167 Korea Counseling Psychological Association krcpa.or.kr 02-498-8293 Korea HIV/AIDS Prevention & Support Center khap.org 02-927-4322 Ra Dental Clinic 02-569-8745 Tufts Dental Clinic 02-553-7512 Religious

Buddhist Seoul International Zen Center seoulzen.org 02-900-4326 Vairocana International Buddhist Meditation Center 02-735-5347 Jetavana Meditation Center jetavanacenter@gmail.com 02-595-5115 Catholic Bomun 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Chunma 02-765-0870 Dongducheon 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Hannam International Church English, Italian, Spanish, French 02-793-2070 Hyewha-dong Catholic Church

02-764-0221 (press 6) Jinjob 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Keumchon 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Philippine Center Tagalog 02-765-0870 Pastral Center for Labor English, Vietnamese, Thai 02-924-2721 Salesio Labor Center Tagalog, Daelim 1 dong 02-765-0870 Sung-dong Social Welfare Center Tagalog 02-765-0870 Yoksam-dong Church 02-553-0801 Catholics in South Korea Facebook Group, Annamarie at sunshineamore25@gmail.wcom Islam Seoul Central Masjid 02-794-7307 Protestant Gwanglim Church 02-2056-5732 International Lutheran 02-794-6274 Jubilee Church 02-569-2293 Kumnan Church 02-490-7000 Myungsung Presbyterian

02-440-9000 Onnuri Church 02-793-9686 Somang Presbyterian 02-512-9191 Seoul Union Church 02-333-7393 Yoido Full Gospel Church 02-782-4851 Yongsan Baptist Church 02-796-0284

Bonji Bistro Just behind Itaewon Hotel and under Gecko’s Garden, Bonji Bistro offers a terrific menu of salads, sandwiches, pastas and classic tapas along with an unbeatable bar. The floor-to-ceiling window door-walls open wide, making it the perfect place to be for their delicious weekend brunch. geckosterrace.com 02-795-9656 Gecko’s Terrace The original Itaewon foreigner hangout, with a comfortable atmosphere, delicious food including great sandwiches, salads and pasta, and English-speaking staff that know how to make cocktails and shots right. geckosterrace.com 02-749-9425

Mexican Mondays: W1,000 Tacos*, Specials on Margaritas, Nachos & Tequila Tuesdays: W500 BBQ Pork Ribs* Wednesdays: Sports Trivia Night Thirsty Thursdays: W1,500 OB Draft ‘til 10 pm Saturday & Sunday: Build Your Own Brunch from 11 - 3 pm

Business Hours

Mon – Fri: 4 pm ‘til Late Sat – Sun: 10:30 am ‘til Real Late t TBNSZBO DPN

Gecko’s Garden Legendary for its gorgeous home-style atmosphere, Gecko’s Garden has now started offering a delicious buffet, with steaks and pasta made to order. Don’t worry; the tapas menu is also still alive and well. geckosterrace.com 02-790-0540

10 Magazine October 2010 | 55

SEOUL DIRECTORY Italian

Hamilton Hotel

Itaewon St.

HOLLYWOOD GRILL (3rd floor) Police St.

SEOUL

Hollywood Grill The place for Premier League Football and other sports, Hollywood has a great menu of pizza, pasta and steaks along with darts, foosball, pool and Golden Tee. hollywoodgrill.co.kr 02-749-1659 Pancakes Original Story Itaewon Mon – Sat 9 am – 10 pm. 02-794-0508

Antonio’s Apgujeong Join chef Sebastiano Giangregorio for an authentic Italian culinary experience. Live jazz performances: Tuesday–Saturday, starting at 7:30 pm and Sunday at 1 pm. 93-8 Cheongdam-dong Gangnamgu. antonios.kr 02-3443-4333 The Pizza Peel Itaewon Offering fresh classic Italian and Western style pizzas.

Enjoy with beer or wine. We are hard to find but easy to remember! Dine in or take out.

02-795-3283

Fradia Gangnam Gaze out on a panoramic view of the Seoul skyline as you dine on choice Italian food at this cafe floating on the Han River. fradia.co.kr 02-3477-0033

Pita Time Haebangchon The salads, pitas and pizzas here provide a low-calorie, healthy meal. 11 am - 10 pm. pitatime.co.kr 02-790-8891

La Bocca Itaewon We can’t decide whether it’s a cafe, pastry shop, deli, or wine bar, but what we are sure about is that the food is fresh and the taste is divine. labocca.co.kr 02-790-5907

Suji’s Itaewon Great American fare in a New York-style bistro atmosphere. sujis.net 02-797-3698 Toque Itaewon

02-794-3834

Mexican Amigos Itaewon 02-795-9711 On the Border The #1 American chain hits that craving for fajitas, chimichangas, tacos, burritos, enchiladas and even margaritas. ontheborder.co.kr Sinchon: 02-324-0682 COEX: 02-565-0682 Times Square: 02-2672-0682 Pancho’s Itaewon 02-792-4767 Taco Amigo Itaewon 02-749-5253 Tomatillo Grill Locations at Jonggak Stn., Samseong Stn., and Yeoksam Stn. tomatillo.co.kr 02-734-9225 Middle Eastern Istanbul Noksapyeong 02-796-0271 Marakech Nights Itaewon Terrific Middle Eastern cuisine from Rhiti Mostaffa, former chef for the Moroccan ambassador to Korea. 02-795-9441 Petra Itaewon 02-790-9441 Thai Buddha’s Belly Itaewon A lounge atmosphere with full bar and cocktails along with great authentic Thai food.

02-796-9330 Eat Me Itaewon Thai fusion dining and lounge, late night kitchen in Itaewon.

Relax in the intimate yet casual dining area and outside patio. Sophisticated atmosphere is sure to please.

070-7624-3149 My Thai Itaewon 02-794-8090 Thai Orchid Itaewon 02-517-1135 Thai Garden Itaewon 02-792-8836

Sortino’s Cucina Itaewon Classic Italian trattoria cuisine in a comfortable, homey atmosphere.

02-797-0488

Caribou Coffee Popular in America, Caribou Coffee has expanded to Korea with locations at Ewha University, Sinchon, Yangjae, and Incheon Airport.

Support fair trade with the Rainforest Alliance Certified coffee sold here. cariboukorea.co.kr 02-3461-5680

Bulgarian 02-749-0600

Chinese

Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong 02-790-0776 Villa Sortino’s Itaewon An incredible Tuscan Villa interior matches perfectly with some delicately prepared Italian flavors. Just across from the Itaewon fire station.

02-553-900

French

korean

La Cigale Monmartre Itaewon

02-796-1244

Bulgogi Brothers Delicious Koreanstyle barbecue at locations throughout Seoul including Gangnam, Myeongdong (02-319-3351), Seoul Station, and Times Square. 11:30 am - 10 pm. bulgogibros.com

Le Saint-Ex Itaewon

02-795-2465

To inquire about getting a logobox for your business, email us at marketing@10magazine.asia 56 | 10 Magazine October 2010

Between Itaewon This multi-level lounge serves contemporary Italian and Spanish mains, lunch, brunch and tapas in a sophisticated atmosphere with live DJs and a spacious terrace. 124-7 Yongsangu, Itaewon-dong.

02-795-6164

BricX Hongdae, Itaewon Chill out at either of BricX’s two locations.

Hongdae 6 pm – 5 am, 마포구 서교동 409-1, B1, 02-3141-5571. Itaewon 7 pm – 5 am, 용산구 이태원동 119-10, B1, bricx.com 02-795-5572

BRAZILIAN

Ho Lee Chow Serving up the best North American-style Chinatown cuisine in Korea since 1998, with 5 convenient locations in the greater Seoul area to serve you. holeechow.co.kr. Itaewon 02-793-0802, Apgujeong 02-514-1730 Jamshil 02-411-0688, Dogok 02-34614468, Bundang 02-711-9071

Berlin Noksapyeong Combining a restaurant, cafe and lounge, Berlin boasts a varied menu, plus wines and all types of music. Noksapyeong St. (line 6). 457-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. awakeinseoul@gmail.com 02-749-0903

Bliss Itaewon Fresh beats by DJ Shine and a reasonably priced menu.

Itaewon. 4 pm – 4 am.

02-798-1125

02-797-3820

Copacabana Itaewon For only W29,000 you get all-you-can-eat of 7 different cuts of roasted meat and a tremendous Brazilian buffet. Make your reservations today!

02-796-1660 Zelen Itaewon

Bar Rouge Itaewon Luxurious wine and tapas bar in the basement of the JW Marriot in Gangnam. Happy hour Tue - Thu 6 - 9 pm.

02-6282-6763

Cafes

Caffé Bene Whether it’s coffee, gelato, or a waffle you’re looking for, you can find it at one of the 200 Caffé Bene outlets across Korea. caffebene.co.kr

02-3438-6888

Austrian Chef Meili Itaewon

B1 Itaewon One of the most hopping bars in Itaewon on any given night, with guest DJs and a good vibe.

7 pm - 3 am.

02-749-6164

Pulhyanggi Gangnam A tasty concoction of traditional Korean dishes and a contemporary slow-food sensibility, plus performances in the evenings. Close to COEX. 11 am – 10 pm. pulhyanggi.co.kr 02-539-3390

The Bungalow Itaewon This quirky beach-themed bar has sand on the floor, swinging chairs, and candle-lit rooms.

02-793-2344 Coffee Bar K Cheongdam-dong A Japanese franchise, they may just have the best bartenders in town. Mon – Sat 6 pm - 2 am.

02-516-1970

Bars/Lounges/Pubs

Wine Bars Dulce Y Suave Garosugil Stop by this classy Sinsa-dong wine bar for an extensive wine list that won’t break your budget. 5 pm - 3 am. club.cyworld.com/ dulceysuave.

02-515-6750 Vin Ga Apgujeong Immaculate service and a subdued atmosphere make this the wine bar of choice for dinner parties and business meetings. Podo Plaza building near Apgujeong St. podoplaza.co.kr 02-516-1761 Lounges / PUBS 3 Alley Pub Itaewon Rub shoulders with long-term Seoul expats and try your hands at darts or pool in this comfortable foreigner-owned pub.

116-15 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu.

3alleypub.com 02-749-3336

Dillinger’s A classic-styled bar with seven beers on tap, great food and drink specials. Come enjoy our large flatscreen TVs, dartboards and Wii games. A great atmosphere for you and your friends.

02-793-7232

Ghetto Vox Itaewon Itaewon’s first art and music space. 용산구 이태원동 132-5 (3rd floor) Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. ghettovox.com 010-3370-2979 Jane’s Groove Hongdae A good place to relax over a drink. 7:30 pm – 3 am.

Closed Mon. janesgroove@gmail.com

02-336-1664 Mike’s Cabin Sinchon This Western bar has a casual atmosphere and holds special events. Near the Yonsei University front gate.

02-325-7808 Monghwan Sinchon Come for the nice décor, live art and music events, and the signature cocktail soju. club. cyworld.com/monghwan 02-325-6218

along with Guinness and Kilkenny on draft. wolfhoundpub.com 02-749-7971 Live Music

Jazz All That Jazz Itaewon

02-795-5701

Cheonnyeondongando (천년동안도) Daehangno (Hyehwa St. Line4) chunnyun.com 02-743-5555 Club Evans Hongdae clubevans.com

02-337-8361

Club Palm Hongdae clubpalm.co.kr

02-336-9016

Once in a Blue Moon Apgujeong onceinabluemoon.co.kr 02-549-5490

SEOUL

Monkey Beach Apgujeong Thailand is just a subway ride away if you head to Monkey Beach. 7:30 pm – 5 am.

02-548-7930 Mix Lounge Garosu-gil It may look like a white greenhouse, but it’s actually a bar serving killer mojitos, lychee martinis and more. 6 pm – 3 am.

Closed Sun. 011-9650-7055 Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong Great home-style Italian cuisine with late night cocktail lounge.

02-790-0776 Platoon Kunsthalle Apgujeong Showcasing underground artists and a fine selection of cutting-edge performances. 11 am – 1 am. Closed Sun. 97-22 Gangnam-gu, Nonhyeondong. kunsthalle.com 02-3447-1191

Roofers Itaewon Come hang out in a warm, friendly atmosphere. Sample the mouthwatering menu, relax on the spacious rooftop and enjoy numerous expat events. Facebook: Roofers Rooftop Bar. 02-749-2970 Sam Ryan’s Itaewon This newcomer to the Itaewon scene offers sports fans eight flat screens throughout the bar along with the meanest plate of pork ribs to be found in Seoul. samryans.com 02-749-7933 Scrooge Pub/Dicken’s Lounge Itaewon A great little sports bar with pool, darts, delicious food and plenty of English-speaking staff. 02-797-8201 Seventy Four Cheongdam-dong A beautiful date spot featuring exotic drinks such as cheese martinis, banana mojitos and cuba libres.

7 pm – 4 am.

02-542-7412 So Much More Apgujeong Combining a hip interior design with the hottest music and the coolest drinks.

Noon - 2 am. blog.naver.com/ so_much_more 02-3447-7890 Tony’s Aussie Shop Itaewon Authentic Australian food and beer. Open mic night held every Wednesday 8 pm – 11 pm. 455-35 Itaewon-dong Yongsangu. writers.meetup.com/779

010-460-54326 Watts on Tap Sinchon Check out the parties, language exchange nights, and live music nights. 6 pm – 2 am. club. cyworld.nate.com/wattsontap 02-3142-8439 Wolfhound Itaewon Terrific Irish/British classic food in a true Irish Pub atmosphere, including shepherd’s pie, toad in a hole, fish n’ chips, bangers n’ mash

InterContinental Hotel Oakwood Premier Woori Bank

COEX

Rocky Mountain Tavern Itaewon Canadians feel right at home with all the hockey jerseys hanging on the walls and great live music and events, along with some of the best buffalo wings in Korea.

Don’t miss the Stand Up Seoul comedy night the first Thursday of each month. rockymountaintavern.com 010-5775-2327

Hyundai Department Store

Teheranno

LINE Line 22 Samseong Stn.

Tokyo Jazz Authentic jazz music performed Mon-Sat, 9:30 pm - 12:30 am by European, American, and Korean musicians. Two minute’s walking distance from the COEX and Grand InterContinental Hotels. 153-44 Samsung-dong.

02-3453-4472 Rock Freebird Hongdae cafe.navercom/ clubfreebird 02-335-4576 Jammers Hongdae jammers.co.kr

02- 325-3914

Just Blues Apgujeong justblues.co.kr

02-542-4788

SoundHolic Hongdae cafe.daum.net/ SoundHolic 02-3142-4233 Clubs

Answer Cheongdam-dong After a shortlived stint as gala restaurant Le Nuit Blanche, the club we all know and love is back. clubanswer.co.kr 02-514-4311 Ben @Blue Spirit Hongdae Great Japanese curry during the day and soju cocktails at night. Hit up the weekend parties. 360-18 SeokyoDong, Mapo-Gu. 02-3142-5301 Eden Gangnam New mega club with top DJs, sizzling sound, and model nights. 역삼동 602 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Ritz Carlton Hotel. eden-club.co.kr 010-9913-3919 Function Itaewon The boutique club hidden in the fancy Macaroni Market restaurant. Tue, Wed, Thu 6 pm – 2:30 am; Fri and Sat 6 pm-3:30 am. 737-50 Hannnam1-dong Yongsan-gu.

02-749-9181

10 Magazine October 2010 | 57

SEOUL DIRECTORY Heaven Gangnam The newest member of Seoul’s club scene combines top-notch technology with divine DJs spinning house and electro beats.

W30,000 general admission, W40,000 for after club hours. Near Yeoksam St. clubheaven.co.kr 02-3444-4997 J.J. Mahoney’s The drinks don’t come cheap, but this nightclub at the Grand Hyatt is a favorite with the over-30s crowd. 747-7 Hannam 2-dong. seoul.grand.hyatt.com 02-797-1234

Beauty

Koobar @Blue Spirit Apgujeong Hip music for a classy crowd. 664-11 Shinsadong, Gangnam-gu.

02-518-5115

SEOUL

M2 Hongdae This long-running club is party central for college students. Sun – Thu 8 pm – 4 am, Fri and Sat 7:30 pm – 6 am. Cover starts at W10,000.

367-11 Seogyo-dong Mapo-gu. ohoo.net/m2 02-3143-7573

English-speaking Staff High light and Low light Cutting Styling Hair spa

Mansion Hongdae This new club pumps out sizzling house, electro, and nu-disco grooves, bringing in quality acts like Roni Size and Goldie. mansionseoul@ gmail.com 02-3143-4037 Mass Gangnam The dance club for the “masses.” 9 pm – 6 am. Sun – Thu W15,000, Fri and Sat W20,000. clubmass.net 02-599-3165 NB Hongdae, Gangnam Supposedly the first hip-hop club in Korea, it has one bar, two stages, and a packed crowd. clubnb.com 02-326-1716 Pulse Itaewon This chilled-out club pumps out danceable tunes in all genres of electronic music until sunrise.

Everyday 8 pm – 7 am. Fri W10,000, Sat W15,000.

02-792-6662 Q-vo Hongdae A popular hip hop club with strobes pulsing above the dance floor. Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun 8 pm – 4 am and Wed, Fri, Sat 8 pm – 6:30 am.

W10,000 - W15,000. 121-210 Ohoo B/ D 367-1 Seogyo Dong. clubqvo.co.kr 02-3143-7573 Saab Hongdae Fashion-conscious twenty-somethings congregate here for a wide variety of music styles.

Weekdays 6 pm – 4 am, weekends 6 pm – 6 am. W10,000 cover on weekends.

02-324-6929

Hongik Univ.

Line 2 Hongdae St.

Coffee Bean

Samgeori Pocha

Record Mom & Shop Dad

Tony&Guy Whether it’s a cut, highlight, low light, or hair spa that you want, you’re guaranteed to get professional service from the English-speaking stylists at Toni & Guy. Near Hongik University.

02-338-2773 Florists

Oxana Garden You are invited to the botanical life. Enjoy the fresh aroma and the cozy environment these plants will bring to your home. Find the perfect flower among the various options on sale here. Hannam St. (Jungang line). oxanagarden.com 02-798-6787 Overseas Accommodation

Volume Itaewon A true “music lovers” club, Volume is found in the basement of Crown Hotel. Fri and Sat 9 pm - 6 am. W15,000 - W30,000. Crown Hotel B1 clubvolume.com 1544-2635 Woo Bar Check out the split-level lobby lounge for cool music and exclusive parties. No cover charge. 21 Gwangjang-dong wseoul.com 02-465-2222 Massage

Healing Hands Massage Studio healinghands.co.kr 070-7504-8090 Community

Brazilians in Seoul Also known as Brasileiros em Seul, this group meets up on the 3rd Tuesday of each month. alocoreia@gmail.com 010-9631-2133 Gangnam Hills Toastmasters Club Helping you develop oral communication and leadership skills. koreatraining@ yahoo.com 010-8779-1969 Republicans Abroad Monthly meetings, events, and lectures for supporters of the USA Republican Party. kmohay@ hotmail.com 010-8688-9810 Charity

Salvation Army Thrift Store Donate your used goods or shop at the stores.

All proceeds support the Adult Rehabilitation Center. nanumistore.org 02-365-7084

58 | 10 Magazine October 2010

Villa Orchid

Bali

Bali Orchid Villa Available for short or long term rental. Check website and then e-mail or call for exclusive Korea-only low rates. villaorchidbali. com email: vittoriaco@hotmail.com 010-7307-6555

GYEONGGI DESTINATION

The Garden of Morning Calm

GYEONGGI

With flowers in the spring, foliage in the fall, and a light festival in the winter, this meticulously planned pleasure garden is a great place to go all year long.

W o r d s by C h a r l e s M o n t g o m e ry, s h ot s by R o b Ouw e h a n d an d C h a r l e s M o n t g o m e ry

I

magine a beautiful garden spreading all around you, verdant and exploding with color. Birds chirp in the trees, and every fragrant blossom shines. To see that dream come true, head to the Garden of Morning Calm. Currently unlisted in Frommer’s and other major travel guides, this tourist destination is 30,000 m2 in size with over 5,000 plant species of eyepopping wonder and lovely aromas.

The garden was built by Professor Han Sangkyung, whose dream was that it would become internationally famous and spread the awareness of Korean natural beauty. While not yet internationally famous, Koreans do know about it.

The garden attracts about 650,000 tourists each year, and it can be quite crowded on the weekends, particularly in the peak season. Some who have visited by automobile tell stories of being trapped on the winding roads that lead to the garden. Do yourself a favor and use Korea’s excellent public transportation system.

Once at the garden, all you have to do is wander. There are large areas, suitable for plopping down and picnicking, and the paths that thread through the garden seem custom-made for young lovers to walk hand in hand. A creek running down the left side of the garden is fringed with a rock garden. Visitors should bring their good

cameras, because when the garden is in bloom, or during the winter light festival, it offers an endless supply of photo opportunities. In the spring, explosions of blossoms stand out in front of verdant, dense foliage.

The arboretum contains 13 theme-based gardens. The Korea Garden features jar stands and greenery that create a comfortable backyard feel.

The Wildflower Garden has a collection of Korean wildflowers, while the Bunjae Garden has plants formed into works of topiary art. Perhaps most popular is the Hagyeong Garden, notable for the observation tower from which you can view the entire arboretum. The grassy Morning Square at the center of the arboretum is a great place to sit and take in the view. In the Moonlight Garden (shaped like the Korean peninsula!), there is also a cute little church, and food and drinks are available in several locations.

The Garden of Morning Calm may be most beautiful from April to May when the f lowers bloom, but it is also stunning in the autumn when the colorful deciduous leaves stand out against the elegant rocks and gardens which surround them. From early December until the end of February the garden graces its plants and trees with more than one million colorful light bulbs as part of its annual light festival.

The garden is open all year round.

Admission price and hours of operation depend on the season.

Price

April – November: W7,000/ W8,000 for adults on weekdays/ weekends, W5,000 for teens, and W4,000 for children.

December – March: W6,000 for adults, W4,000 for teens, and W3,000 for children.

Hours

April – October: 8:30 am – 8:30 pm November – March: 9 am – 8:30 pm

By Bus

From Seoul, get a bus from Sangbong Intercity Bus Terminal or Dong Seoul Bus Terminal to Cheongpyeong Bus Terminal.

Alternatively, take Bus No. 1330 from Cheongnyangni Station to Cheongpyeong. From there take a bus or taxi to the garden.

By Tr ain

A train from Cheongnyangni Station in Seoul to Cheongpyeong will take about one hour.

Once there, a taxi ride to the garden is 20 - 25 minutes, or you can also walk to Cheongpyeong bus station for public transportation.

The Garden of Morning Calm also has an excellent website (Korean/ English): morningcalm.co.kr 1544-6703 10 Magazine October 2010 | 59

GYEONGGI CALENDAR Paolo Fresu

Stanley Jordan Candy Dulfer Shuffle Demons

O

ver the past seven years, the Jarasum So, what (and whom) can the jazz fan look Jazz Festival has grown from a relaforward to at this year’s event? Obviously, tively unknown rural jazz outpost people have wide and varied tastes in music, into one of Asia’s most impressive performance so checking out the website and schedule is a venues. Even though the event has spread bemust. While the Main Stage acts are somewhat yond the confines of Jara Island in the Bukhan toned down this year compared to previous fesRiver (where the Main Stage events are still tivals, there are still some performers of note held) and the crowds have swelled to sizes unto watch out for. For ECM jazz lovers, Friday imaginable in those formative days, the essence offers up the Paolo Fresu Trio, while The Dizzy of the event has remained true to its origins: JaGillespie All-Stars with the Heath Brothers will rasum is first and foremost all about the music. close out the night in fine fettle. Klezmaniacs With various venues focusing on specific up late will love what’s in store on the Dance elements of the “jazz experience” spread Stage later.

Each year in October, Saturday night promises almost too much throughout the town of Gapyeong, some planworshippers at the shrine of a good thing on both the Main and Party ning and coordination is essential if one is to of jazz take a pilgrimage to Stages: the abundance of riches begins with garner the most value from the event. Whether Stanley Jordan, powers through the funk with enjoying world class acts on the Main Stage, a small island called Jara.

Nils Landgren, and closes with the Watts Projtripping the light fantastic (or really getting Wo r d s by M i c h a e l B e r ry ect featuring Branford Marsalis and Jeff “Tain” one’s funk on) at the more intimate Festival Watts—yes, indeed! Not to be outdone, the Lounge, Jazz Cube, and Jazz Palette, or hang- G e tti n g th e r e Party Stage offers up a true stompfest with Caing out after hours at the small clubs that trans- By bus from Seoul: Buses going to nadian bop crazoids The Shuffle Demons, and form into versions of “Jazzland Korea” offerChuncheon via Gapyeong depart from Dongseoul Bus Terminal and the pulsating Brazilian rhythms of New Zealand ing post-midnight revelry, there are definitely Sangbong Bus Terminal. You can also combo Batucada Sound Machine: this promises options aplenty. take #7000 from Jamsil Stn. (lines 2 One thing that should be noted, however, is to be a total blast. and 5), or #1330-2 or #1330-3 from Cheongnyangni Stn. (line 1).

Sunday brings a more sultry vibe to the occathat with the non-Main Stage events all held off Be sure to get off at Gapyeong. sion, with both Tania Maria and Candy Dulfer the island, it requires some organization and By train from Seoul: It takes less than rounding out the weekend nicely. Sadly, there patience if the intrepid jazzhound is to make two hours from Cheongnyangni Stn. to Gapyeong, but you may want to get will be no Dance Stage that night. the scene on time and in fine form. While there your tickets early so you don’t have to Is your appetite whetted for some of the finare buses that move between venues, it is usustand up the whole way. est live music to descend on the peninsula in ally better to walk from the island to the town locations, as they are basically about a 20-25 minute hike. Plus, October? Just remember to plan accordingly, get there early, you’ll get to experience the other, more impromptu side of the bring your dancing shoes, get in the groove, and jazz the weekend Festival and a number of street venues (especially in front of the away. The info is online: all you have to do is dig it! www.jarasumjazz.com 031-581-2813 railway station).

60 | 10 Magazine October 2010

Art Through October 14th John Moore Contemporary Painting Prize Show The thirty artists displayed here represent some of the finest English painters working today.

Seongnam Arts Center. Dark Mondays.

Adults W4,000, teens W3,000, children W2,000. snart.or.kr 031-783-8000 Through October 17th Theo Jansen “Animals Modular” Exhibition Dutch artist-engineer Jansen uses simple ingredients like cable ties and plastic tubes to create massive skeleton-like structures that use the power of the wind to walk by themselves. Gwacheon National Science Museum, Seoul Grand Park St. (line 4, exit 5). 9:30 am – 8:30 pm.

Adults W13,000, students W8,000. theojansen.co.kr 1566-0329

Through October 31st Jangheung Art Market: JAM This innovative new art market offers original paintings, pictures, crafts, and objects d’art for viewing and buying. Jangheung Art Park in Yangju. Held on weekends and public holidays. 11 am – 6 pm. artpark.co.kr 031-877-0500 October 1st – 7th Incheon World Art Festival Incheon Culture & Arts Center. 10 am – 7 pm. Free. art.incheon.go.kr 032-435-0882

Theater & Dance October 7th - 10th Goyang Lake Park Arts Festival This festival features a variety of popular street art performances including theater, dance, music and mime performances from six different countries. Goyang Lake Park. gylaf.kr 031-960-9717 October 15th – 16th German Karlsruhe National Theater: A Midsummer Night’s Dream Ballet Anyang Art Center. Fri 8 pm, Sat 3 pm.

W10,000 – W55,000. ayac.or.kr 031-687-0500 October 26th – 30th Romeo and Juliet: the Opera Bucheon Cultural Foundation. Tues, Wed and Fri 7:30 pm, Sat 4 pm. W20,000 – W80,000. bcf.or.kr 032-320-6335 October 29th – 30th Ballet de L’Opera de Lyon: Giselle Seongnam Arts Center. Fri 8 pm, Sat 5 pm. W40,000 – W130,000. snart.or.kr 031-783-8000 October 29th – 31st La Boheme: the Opera Goyang Aram Nuri Arts Center. Fri 8 pm, Sat 7 pm, Sun 4 pm. W10,000 – W70,000. artgy.or.kr 1577-7766

Concerts October 2nd World of Classics Piano Concert Featuring classical pianists from Korea, Russia and Japan. Hwaseong Art Hall.

5 pm. W10,000 - W20,000. hcf.or.kr 031-267-8888 October 7th Autumn in Jazz Featuring jazz singer Woong San. Gyeonggi Arts Center. 7:30

October 8th Goyang Philharmonic Orchestra Performing Suppe’s Poet and Peasant Overture, Shostakovich’s Concerto for Piano and Trumpet No. 1 in C Minor Op. 35 and Dvorak’s Symphony No. 9 in E Minor Op. 95. Goyang Aram Nuri Arts Center. 8 pm. W10,000 – W50,000. www.artgy.or.kr 031-931-5970 Ivan Fischer and Budapest Festival Orchestra Performing Rossini’s La Gazza Ladra Overture, Bruch’s Violin Concerto No. 1 in G Minor Op. 26 featuring violinist Ju Young Baek, and Schubert’s Symphony No. 9 The Great.

Seongnam Arts Center. 8 pm. W40,000 – W130,000. snart.or.kr 031-783-8000 October 9th Shin Joong Hyun Guitar Tribute Concert Shin Joong Hyun, Korea’s godfather of rock, is the first Asian musician and the sixth musician in the world to have received a Fender Custom Shop Tribute Series guitar. Hanam Arts Center. 7 pm. W44,000 – W66,000. hnart.or.kr 031-790-7979 October 21st October Matinee Concert The Sejong Soloist Society and the Vivaldi Ensemble will be performing music by Vivaldi, Shostakovich and Brahms. Seongnam Arts Center. 11 am.

W24,000. snart.or.kr 031-783-8000 October 29th Great Composers Series II: Germany The Incheon Philharmonic Orchestra will be performing music by Beethoven, Mozart and Brahms. Incheon Culture & Arts Center. 7:30 pm. W5,000 – W10,000. art.incheon.go.kr 1588-2341 October 30th Harmonica Jazz Concert Featuring Harmonica Master Jae Deok Jeon. Icheon Art Hall, southeast of Seoul. 4 pm. W10,000 – W20,000. artic.or.kr 031-644-2100

Family & Community Through October 31st Everland Happy Halloween South Korea’s largest theme park will be decked out in Halloween décor for this spooky holiday. Yongin, south of Seoul. everland.com October 7th – 10th Incheon Sorae Pogu Festival This festival celebrates Sorae Harbor, famous for its picturesque scenery of small fishing boats and beautiful sunsets. Featuring concerts, a parade, a traditional Korean market and a seafood market that offers a daily selection of fresh seafood. Sorae Harbor and Sorae Wetland Eco Park. soraefestival.net 032-453-2140 Suwon Hwaseong Cultural Festival One of the largest culture and tourism festivals in Korea, this festival features a royal parade, historical reenactments, food tastings and various performances.

Hwaseong Fortress. shfes.suwon.ne.kr 031-228-2621 October 8th – December 5th Pororo Ice Land Experience Children will have fun at this event featuring one of Korea’s most popular cartoon characters. Ilsan Lake Park Goyang Flower Center. 10 am – 7 pm.

Adults W10,000, children W12,000. pororoland2.com 1688-5246 October 9th – 10th Lake Comic Festival This festival aims

at providing wholesome entertainment for children and teenagers, but animation lovers of all ages are welcome. Featuring cosplay performances, a concert, animation contests, a market, henna and face-painting. Next to Goyang Flower Center in Ilsan, northwest of Seoul. lcf.kr

gyeongGI province Religious Services

Osan Air Power Day This air show will feature performances by the Black Eagles, the Korean Air Force’s premier aerial demonstration team, and other aerial demonstrations. Osan Air Base. 9 am 5 pm. Free. osan.af.mil 031-661-4044

Grace & Truth Church Anyang, Ansan, and Suwon Sunday 9:30 am, 11 am, 1 pm, grace-truth.org 031-443-3731 Dongsan Church Ansan Sunday 11:30 am, 010-2910-7809

October 28th – 31st Robot World 2010 This enormous international exhibition of robot technology is comprised of three events, the international Robot Industry Show (iRIS), the International Robot Contest (IRC) and the Korea Robot Conference (KRC). Ilsan Kintex. robotworld.or.kr 02-780-3075

Central America Culture Center Goyang. latina.or.kr 031-962-7171 Elvis Presley Memorial Hall Paju paju.go.kr 031-948-3358 Face Museum Gwangju (Gyeonggi Province). visagej.org, 031-765-3522 Korean Lamp (Deung-Jan) Museum Yongin deungjan.or.kr/eng 031-334-0797 Waltz & Dr. Mahn Coffee Museum Namyangju wndcof.com 031-576-6051

October 29th – November 2nd Yeoncheon Paleolithic Festival One of two leading Old Stone Agerelated festivals in the world. Learn about the prehistoric era through hands-on activities. Prehistoric sites in Jeongok-ri and Jeongok-eup. goosukgi.org 031-839-2561

Museums

Transportation

International Taxi (English speaking)

1644-2255 Jumbo Taxi Service (more expensive) 02-888-2000 Radio

Education & Conferences Through October 12th Bucheon World Intangible Cultural Heritage Expo If you enjoy colorful costumes, traditional dances, and artifacts from times past, this cultural expo will be right up your alley. The Bucheon Visual Culture Complex. bucheonexpo.org 032-625-8320 October 22nd – 24th World Bike Expo 2010 This expo aims to foster and promote bike riding in Korea. Those in the industry can benefit from the business seminars and showcases on new and green products, while bike lovers can enjoy the demo and extreme bike shows and the competitions. Ilsan KINTEX. 10 am – 6 pm. worldbikeshow.com 031-810-8044 October 27th – 29th G-Fair 2010 750 companies will be represented at this year’s G-Fair, the biggest trade fair of SMEs (Small & Medium Enterprises) in Korea. Ilsan KINTEX. Free. gfair.or.kr 031-259-6224

US Armed Forces Network Dongducheon AM 1197/FM 88.3 Pyongtaek AM 1440/FM 88.3 Songtan AM 1359/FM 88.5 Uijeongbu AM 1161/FM 88.5 Restaurants

Cafe Nicolia Bucheon European-style café and wine bar. cafenicolia.com

032-329-0526 La Mia Cucina Ilsan The kitchen is always open at this English-friendly Italian pub with great outdoor seating all set for the summer months. 7 pm – 4 am. 010-2327-8882 First Nepal Restaurant Incheon . firstnepal.com 032-525-8771 Bars/Lounges/Pubs

The Park Bucheon 010-3136-0153 Rhythm & Blues Bucheon 032-323-0161 Frog and Toad Ilsan 010-9950-7399 West Island Ilsan 031-917-2225

Sports & Fitness Sonata K-League Football 4th Incheon vs Busan at Incheon World Cup Stadium 7 pm 9th Incheon vs Daejeon at Incheon World Cup Stadium 7 pm 9th Suwon vs Jeonnam at Suwon World Cup Stadium 7:30 pm 15th Seongnam vs Daejeon at Tancheon Stadium 7:30 pm 27th Incheon vs Gyeongnam at Incheon World Cup Stadium 7:30 pm 30th Seongnam vs Gwangju at Tancheon Stadium 3 pm 31st Suwon vs Pohang at Suwon World Cup Stadium 1 pm

Dine & Drink October 21st – 24th Icheon Rice Festival Even though Icheon is famous for its rice, this festival offers more than just food tastings. Events include historical reenactments, concerts, art exhibits, plays and parades. Seolbong Park. ricefestival.or.kr 031-644-4121

Jukjeon Gecko’s Yongin Bundang and Yongin expats should be ecstatic to know that the famous Gecko’s chain is expanding south. Near the Shinsegye department store. geckosterrace.com

031-262-9974

10 Magazine October 2010 | 61

GYEONGGI

Through October 24th Spatial Art Project Come to this exhibit to see some refreshingly different art. Goyang Oulim Nuri Arts Center in Ilsan. Tues – Thurs & Sun 10 am – 6 pm. Fri & Sat 10 am – 8 pm. Dark Mon. W3,000. artgy.or.kr 031-960-9730

pm. W10,000 – W30,000. ggac.or.kr 031-230-3440

CHUNGCHEONG CALENDAR F o odi e F i nd

Cheonan’s Answer to Your Curry Craving

Art October 9th – November 7th Gongju International Art Festival This year’s festival will feature paintings, screen prints and photography by sixty artists from twelve different countries on the theme of “Feelings and Nature.”

Limlip Art Museum. 10 am - 7 pm.

Adults W3,000, children W2,000. limlipmuseum.org 043-850-6720

Performances

CHUNGCHEONG

Mount Fishtail, a restaurant located near Cheonan Station, stays faithful to traditional cooking methods. The owners, a welcoming Nepalese couple, even imported a genuine Tandoor oven from India to ensure authentic flavors. They pride themselves on their Tandoori chicken and crispy baked naan and also sell various ingredients to help you create your own Indian-inspired cuisine.

The extensive, reasonably priced menu includes a dinner special for two: tandoori chicken and naan, curry and rice, and crunchy vegetable samosa with lassi to drink (W25,000). The food is simply outstanding. Each flavourful dish will have you oohing and aahing in a manner not entirely suitable for the dinner table. But they’re just that good. Head to Cheonan to see for yourself. 041-555-3612 rajesh_75shr@yahoo.com

Words by Stacey Siebr itz and shots by R h ys Br i n dle

edi t or’ s p ick

October 7th Tenor Christopher Pregardien Recital Concert Christropher Pregardien accompanied by Michael Gees will perform some of Schubert’s and Schumann’s most famous symphonies. Daejeon Culture and Art Center. 7:30 pm. W20,000 – W40,000. djac.or.kr 042-610-2222 October 8th French National Avignon Orchestra Concert Performing Camille SaintSaëns’ Concerto for Cello and Orchestra No.1 in A Minor and Bizet’s Symphony in C Major. Daejeon Culture and Art Center. 7:30 pm. W20,000 – W100,000. djac.or.kr 042-610-2222 October 16th – 17th The Ballerina Who Fell in Love with a B-Boy This story of a ballerina who falls for a b-boy street dancer is a blend of break dance and ballet. Jeongshimwha Hall, Chungnam University.

4 pm & 7 pm. W44,000 - W55,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-334-6396 October 19th Chungnam Philharmonic Orchestra Concert Enjoy a night of Korea’s first metropolitan symphonic orchestra.

Gongju Culture and Art Center.

7:30 pm. W2,000 – W5,000. acc.gongju.go.kr 041-856-0778 October 21st – 23rd Opera “La Boheme” Come see the French opera classic.

Daejeon Culture and Art Center. Mon - Fri 7:30 pm, Sat 7 pm. W10,000 – W70,000. djac.or.kr 042-610-2222 October 31st Red Star Army Chorus Dance Ensemble Concert This ensemble from Moscow will be performing classical Russian favorites. Eumseong Culture and Arts Center. 3pm. W20,000 - 30,000. esart.kr 043-871-3883

Family & Community Family October 5th – 10th

Cheonan Heungtaryeong Dance Festival

If you’re looking for a dance festival that combines the raw energy of local talent with the exotic exuberance of international performers, look no further than Cheonan. This year, the city will host the Cheonan Heungtaryeong Dance Festival (천안 흥 타령축제) in which 24 countries will compete in Korea’s first ever International Folk Dance Contest. Visitors will enjoy performances from K-pop superstars such as 2pm and Afterschool as well as street parades and a national dance contest. In the evening, the dazzling costumes and electric atmosphere of the Fun Fun Dance Parties will keep the audience and performers partying well into the early hours. This year’s festival promises something for everyone. Held at various locations around the city. Free admission. dancefestival.or.kr 041-521-5164

Words by Stacey Siebr itz image from Cheona n city

62 | 10 Magazine October 2010

October 1st – 5th Gyeryong World Military Culture Festival Participants can enjoy military band performances and experience military activities like shooting practice and hunting in camouflage. There will also be photo competitions, art exhibitions and an international military film festival. Around Gyeryong University. m-festival.org 042-840-2672

Sport & Fitness Through October 3rd Cheongju World Martial Arts Festival Watch and learn about hapkido, kickboxing, taekwondo and others.

Cheongju Martial Arts Theme Park. martialarts.or.kr 043-850-6720 Sonata K-League Football 2nd Daejeon vs Ulsan at 3 pm 27th Daejeon vs Pohang at 7 pm at Daejeon World Cup Stadium

CHUNGCHEONG PROVINCE Religious Services Central Presbyterian Church Nonsan 041-736-1002 Presbyterian Church Cheonan 041-675-2008 Central Presbyterian Church Gongju 011-382-1862 Sanseong Church 042-585-8111 Daejeon jungwonh@hotmail.com

Classes Yegok Natural Dye Workshop Okcheongun Dye clothing or make natural soap. yegok.co.kr 043-733-0978

Entertainment Kumdori Land Daejeon kumdori.co.kr 042-862-4000 O-World Amusement Park Daejeon oworld.kr 042-580-4820

Museums Alcohol Museum: Liquorium Chungju liquorium.com 043-855-7333 Gonam Shell Mound Museum Taeangun Anmyeon Island museum.taean.go.kr 041-670-2337 Jincheon Bell Museum Jincheon-gun jincheonbell.net 043-539-3850 Korea Traditional Architecture Museum Yesan-gun English site: ktam.or.kr 041-337-5877

Hotels/Accommodations New Korea Hotel Asan 041-542-8151 Onyang Hot Spring Hotel Asan 041-543-2141 Cheonan Central Hotel Cheonan 041-564-9100 Yuseong Daejeon

042-822-9591 The Sky Blue Bird Seosan 011-382-1862 Golden Wave Taean 041-675-2008

Medical Services Konyang International Health Care Center Daejeon kihcc.kyuh.co.kr 042-600-9978 Sun Hospital Daejeon 042-220-8000

Restaurants/Supermarkets Gasan Korean, Cheonan 041-561-9500 Spain House Spanish, Cheonan

041-571-7474 Olive Farms Buffet, Cheongju

043-215-3311

Live Music Venues Barker’s Live Bar Gyeryong Club In Sky 2 Daejeon cafe.daum.net/tjinsky

042-841-0470 042-223-7117

Bars/Lounges/Pubs Rolling Stones Cheonan 041-562-9824 MJ Cheongju “MJ Bar” on Facebook.

043-273-8366 Road King Cheongju 010-8301-5936 Blue Moon Cheongwon 043-285-0399 Brickhouse Sports Bar & Grill Daejeon “The Daejeon Brickhouse” on Facebook,

010-9867-0921 J-Rock Daejeon 010-4564-7721 Santa Claus Daejeon “Santa Claus 2008” on Facebook, 042-825-5500 The Shisha House Daejeon 042-825-4157 Sponge Daejeon 042-471-3373

GANGWON CALENDAR Art

Education & Conferences

Through October 14th Ilhyun Travel Grant Exhibition This exhibition supports the work of 20 young artists. Ilhyun Art Museum in Yangyang-gun. 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. ilhyunmuseum.or.kr 033-670-8450

October 8th - 10th Salmon Festival Watch as salmon born in the Namdaecheon River make the long journey from the Bearing Sea back to their birthplace for the last phase of their life cycle. Yangyang-gun. eng.yangyang.go.kr 033-670-2723

Concerts October 1st - 3rd Playground Music & Camping Festival Experience three days of Korean bands, games, flea markets and art exhibits. The fun keeps on going after dark with a night-time cinema and a BBQ party. Jungdo, Chuncheon.

W33,000 - 88,000. musiccamping.com 070-7725-0385 October 7th Wonju Philharmonic Orchestra’s Regular Concert Baegun Art Hall in Wonju. 7:30 pm. Regular W5,000, students W3,000. wjphil.wonju.go.kr 033-766-0067 October 9th Korean Classical Music Concert Gangneung Culture and Art Center. 7:30 pm. gmc.gangneung.go.kr 033-647-2004 October 26th Red Star Army Chorus Dance Ensemble Concert This ensemble from Moscow will be performing classical Russian favorites. Haeram Culture Hall in Gangneung-Wonju National University. 7:30 pm. W10,000. gmc.gangneung.go.kr 033-647-2004

October 1st - 31st Mindung Mountain Silver Grass Flower Festival Every fall visitors flock to Mindung Mountain to see the silver grass flower (억새꽃) at this festival in Jeongseon-gun. jeongseon.go.kr 033-591-9141 October 2nd - 16th Seorak Cultural Festival The East Sea and Seorak Mountain are the focus of this festival, where participants can take part in a climbing competition, ship-dragging competition, fishing competition and squid-tasting. Events are held around Seorak National Park and take place on weekends. seorakfestival.com 033-635-8827 October 6th - 9th Jeongseon Arirang Festival Jeongseon is the birthplace of one of Korea’s most famous folk songs, “Arirang,” which this festival is named after. The festival’s main events include a performance of this song as well as other traditional music performances, dance performances and plays. The Jeongseon Five Day Market is also a part of this festival. Arari Folk Village and Jeongseon Public Stadium. arirangfestival.kr 033-563-2646

Sport & Fitness

Art, Coffee and Pizza?

gangwon PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance Chuncheon Online Info tour.chuncheon.go.kr/eng

Libraries Chuncheon City Library iccl.or.kr 033-254-3887 Taebaek Municipal Library tbmlib.or.kr 033-550-2755

Amusement Parks Dreamland Amusement Park With a large zoo and plenty of rides, there’s lots of fun to be found at this park at Chiak Mountain near Wonju. W20,000 for adults, W18,000 for children. mydreamland.co.kr 033-732-5800

Museums Arari Puppet House Jeongseon-gun arari.net 033-563-9667 Bangsan Porcelain Museum Yanggu-gun bangsanm.or.kr 033-480-2664 Byeolmaru Observatory Yeongwol-gun yao.or.kr 033-374-7460 Chuncheon Animation Museum animationmuseum.com 033-245-6444 Chuncheon Makguksu Museum makguksumuseum.com 033-250-4134 Forest Art Museum Hoengseong-gun jjsoup.com 033-342-6833 Haslla Art World Gangneung haslla.kr 033-644-9411 Ilhyeon Art Museum Yangyang-gun ilhyunmuseum.or.kr 033-670-8450 Institute of Traditional Korean Cooking Pyeongchang-gun ktfce.com/ktfce.pdf 033-333-1012 Joseon Folk Painting Museum Yeongwol-gun minhwa.co.kr 033-375-6100 Marisorigol Musical Instrument Museum Hongcheon-gun great.go.kr 033-430-2016 Mooee Arts Center Pyeongchang-gun mooee.co.kr 033-335-6700 Sokbong Ceramic Museum Sokcho dogong.net 033-638-7711 Sokcho Museum Sokcho sokchomuse.go.kr 033-639-2977 Teddy Bear Farm Sokcho teddyfarm.net 033-636-3680 Wonju Hanji Museum Wonju wjhanji.co.kr 033-731-2323

Hotels/Accommodations W Hotel Wonju w-hotel.co.kr

033-742-5454

Medical Services

October 30th - 31st The 16th Wonju Two Days Walk Come join 40,000 other participants in walking a 5K, 10K, 20K, 30K or 50K. Tattoo Stadium. Regular W5,000, students W3,000. koreawalk.kr 33-762-2234

Gangwon National University Hospital Chuncheon knuh.or.kr/html/index.asp

033-258-2000 Gangnam Hospital Chuncheon ekangnam.co.kr 033-240-7000 Hyundai Animal Clinic Chuncheon dog7582.co.kr 033-256-7582 Ye Dental Clinic Chuncheon ccye.co.kr 033-262-2078

K-League Football 4th Gangwon vs Suwon at 7 pm 9th Gangwon vs Jeju at 7 pm 27th Gangwon vs Gwangju at 7:30 pm at Gangreung Stadium

Acozza Cafe Wonju Classy pizzas served in chic industrial décor. acozza.co.kr 033-766-7999

Restaurants

“Changing Thought, Changing Future” is the slogan graffitied on the wall of the Acozza Café, Wonju’s claim to cultured classy cuisine and a must-see in Gangwon’s largest city. The name itself is a compound word that means art, coffee and pizza. As the name states, this café caters to a variety of audiences. Art lovers will appreciate the exhibits showcasing works by local artists on the café’s chic industrial walls, coffee enthusiasts will enjoy the African-imported coffee and foodies will gobble up the gourmet pizzas and calzones. To get there, catch a cab from Wonju proper to Heungeop, pass a flower shop and follow the inconspicuous corner sign on your right leading up the hill to the cafe. Hours are from 11 am – 10 pm. acozza.co.kr 033-766-7999 Words and shots by Ch a r ity Yoro edi t or’ s pick

October 22nd - 31st

Gangneung Coffee Festival

Are you sick and tired of most of the coffee that is out there in Korea? Does the lack of selection bore your taste buds? If so, you’re in for a treat with the second annual Gangneung Coffee Festival, a chance for coffee novices and aficionados to get together in a place where Korea’s oldest coffee trees are grown. The festival boasts imported hand-roasted coffee beans from around the world including Brazil, Colombia, Guatemala, Ethiopia, and Kenya. Participants can learn how to differentiate between these coffees and many others in numerous tasting events, and for those who want to take their coffee experience home, you can even learn how to hand-drip the perfect cup of coffee. Happening in about 120 coffee shops in Gangneung. coffeefestival.net 033-640-5115 10 Magazine October 2010 | 63

GANGWON

Family & Community

gangwon disc overy

GYEONGSANG CALENDAR Gye ongsang DIS C OV ER Y

Art & Design Through October 13th Photographic Meditation: A Gwangho Choi Photo Exhibition Choi’s use of overexposure in capturing birth, death and rites of passage in Korean society provides a photographic history of Korea’s last three decades. Goeun Museum of Photography. Tues – Sun 10 am - 7 pm. goeunmuseum.org 051-746-0055

Moonlighting on Dalmaji Hill For under-the-moon imbibers and breathtaking views, follow the stars to Dalmaji Hill.

W o r d s an d s h ot s b y M i k e L u e dk e

A

t the intersection of old-school charm and modern chic, one finds Busan’s Dalmaji Hill. Both locals and celebrities are lured to its tree-lined terraces and five-star eateries fit for all palates. The name translates to “The Moon Watching Place,” and there is no better location to do so–ask the hoards of people who flock here annually to behold the first full moon.

An eastern walk along Moontan Road (a play on “suntan”) leads hikers from Haeundae’s Mipo district down an idyllic trail with ocean views and renowned sites such as Haewol Pavillion and Cheongsapo’s twin lighthouses. Stop in Cheongsapo for its famous grilled shellfish or take the 2.2 km trail to its terminus at Songjeong Beach.

On Dalmaji’s west side, a map highlighting almost 20 art galleries and museums stands at the entrance of the “15-curved road” that crisscrosses the hill. The more well known galleries include JoHyun Gallery, Gallery Montmarte, K Gallery, and the Korea Art Center. Gallery-hoppers can follow up their experience at one of Dalmaji’s many cafés like Angel-in-Us or A Twosome Place. Try the artsy café Van or Hae-o-Pabu café for a pricey yet delicious sandwich and beverage.

Nightlife seekers can head to Starface to enjoy delicious international cuisine and copious drinks with a culturally diverse crowd. Korean and expat bands provide the soundtrack.

Dalmaji Hill offers something for everyone, from scenic views to cultural immersion with classic charm.

See you there for the next full moon!

Through October 28th Daegu Modern History Photo Exhibition Follow the modern history of Daegu through the photographs of eight different exhibitors. Photographs start during the Japanese occupation circa 1930 and run through the Korean War, ending with the 1960s. A rare chance for a peek at life in Daegu before all the factories got there. Daegu’s Bongsan Cultural Center.

Free. bongsanart.org 019-9021-3989

Take subway line 2 to Jung-dong station. Exit in front of E-mart and walk south toward the ocean. Follow the signs toward Mipo, but take a left up the hill at the 5-way intersection. 1520 minutes walking time.

64 | 10 Magazine October 2010

October 21st - November 7th Phantom of the Opera In Korean.

Keimyung Art Center in Daegu.

Weekdays 8 pm, Sat 3 pm & 8 pm. Sun 2 pm & 7 pm. W40,000 – W130,000. kmuartcenter.kr 053-762-0000

Concerts Through October 23rd Bonghwangdae Regular Night Performances Gyeongju has put together regular Saturday night performances for the community, but the new schedule isn’t up yet. Check the website one more time before calling.

Nodonggobun Special Stage. 7 pm. gyeongju.go.kr 054-779-6770

Through October 31st Contemporary English Art Get an update on what’s been happening in the English art scene since the 90s with work by Damien Hirst, Julian Opie, and Marc Quinn. Johyun Gallery in Busan. johyungallery.com 051-747-8853

October 2nd – 3rd Lucid Fall Concert If you’re curious to know what Korean folk music sounds like, come to this concert. Lucid Fall is singer and songwriter Jo Yun-suk, a popular Korean indie folk rock artist known for his poetic lyrics. Suseong Artpia in Daegu. Sat 6 pm, Sun 5:30 pm.

W33,000. ssartpia.or.kr 051-752-5547

Through November 20th Busan Biennale Art expositions this massive don’t happen every day, people.

We’re talking about only once every two years. This year’s theme is evolution, both of art and of the human race. Busan Museum of Art and other locations.

2010.busanbiennale.org 051-503-6111

October 7th Schumann Violin Sonatas Eastern and Western talent will collaborate in this concert marking the 200th anniversary of Schumann’s birth. Sung-Ju Lee on violin, Oliver Kern on piano. Suseong Artpia in Daegu. 7:30 pm. W10,000 – W30,000. ssartpia.or.kr 02-780-5054

October 4th – 16th Busan International Textile & Fashion Show There will be over 500 booths at this year’s BITFA. Events include the Busan Textile Design Competition, a contest featuring traditional Korean costumes, the Busan Fashion Design Competition, and a fashion show featuring local brands.

BEXCO. bitfas.com 051-740-3510

October 7th – 10th Ulsan World Music Festival A part of the Cheoyong Culture Festival, the Ulsan World Music Festival will feature 52 musical groups from 17 different countries. There will also be b-boy performances, traditional Korean theatrical performances, a traditional Korean and foreign mask exhibition and a tea ceremony. Ulsan Culture and Arts Center. cheoyong.or.kr 052-260-7644

October 6th – 10th Busan Art Edition 2010 Korea’s main art fair for print and photography will feature the work of numerous artists from 15 different countries in about 60 galleries. BEXCO. 10 am – 7 pm. artedition.kr 02-521-9613

Theater & Dance Ongoing The Ballerina Who Fell in Love with a B-Boy This b-boy-meets-ballerina story is a genre-bending mash-up of break dance and ballet. Seomyeon BB Theater in Busan. Mon - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 and 8 pm, Sun 3 and 6 pm. W40,000 W50,000. bbtheater.co.kr 051-804-2252 Jump In its second decade, this popular martial arts comic show shows no signs of slowing. Lotte Art Hall. Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat & Holidays 5 pm & 8 pm, Sun 6 pm.

W40,000 – W50,000. hijump.co.kr 051-744-4885 Wizard of Oz in English Expats parents can use this show to help kids stay in touch with their roots. Cotton Candy Art Hall at the Migliore Department Store, 6th floor, near Seomyeon Station.

Saturdays at 2 pm W10,000. cafe.daum. net/somsatanghall 051-922-4545

G e tt i n g t h e r e :

Korea, their website only works right on a PC running MS Explorer. diof.org 053-666-6111

Through October 30th Daegu International Opera Festival The city of Daegu is really trying to make a name for itself with a few big festivals, and the Daegu International Opera Festival is one of them, now in its seventh year. As is common with these things in

October 14th - 15th The Advantage Live in Concert Gamers will love this band dedicated to performing hip versions of 8-bit Nintendo tunes. 10/14: Bar Guess in Daegu. 10/15: Busan (TBA). supercolorsuper.com supercolorsuper@gmail.com October 15th Isao Sasaki Concert Japanese voice actor, actor, vocalist and musician Isao Sasaki will be performing on the piano at this 10th anniversary concert. Suseong Artpia in Daegu. 7:30 pm. W40,000 – W70,000. ssartpia.or.kr 02-2658-3546 October 23rd World Mission Choir Concert Gumi Art Center. 7:30 pm. W3,000 – W5,000. gumiart.or.kr 054-451-3040 October 24th Russian Tatar State Symphony Orchestra Busan Citizen’s Hall. 3 pm & 7 pm. W30,000 – W70,000. citizenhall.busan.kr 051-462-7071 Tera Melos Live in Concert Innovative math rock band Tera Melos push the musical envelope. Busan, location TBA. supercolorsuper.com October 28th - 29th Pregnant and Mason Lindahl Double Tour 10/28: Bar Guess in Daegu. 10/29 Busan (TBA). supercolorsuper.com supercolorsuper@gmail.com October 29th – 31st Changwon International Interactive Music Festival We’re not sure about the “interactive” part of it, but there will be

E DITOR’ S PICK

Battle B-Boy

Korea in Motion Daegu

(Koinmo Daegu)

Theater & Dance November 5th – 7th

This November, Daegu tries to build its reputation as “the culture city” as it hosts Korea in Motion Daegu.

This is the chance for those living far beyond Seoul and searching for similar non-verbal theater to the well-known Nanta, Miso, and Fantastick performances to find cultural respite. These beautiful, non-verbal performances use gestures, rhythms, and various dance forms to overcome the language barriers that would otherwise separate the audience and performers. The three-day festival includes six performances: Return, Sachoom, Break Out, Madonna, New Resolution, and Trauma. Shows at Donggu Arts and Sports Center are W20,000 each, which admission is W10,000 at both the Bongsan Art Center and Harmonia Art Hall. Foreigners can also rejoice at a 50% discount on ticket Words by I na e Oh prices! koinmodaegu.com 1644-8415

October 30th Red Star Red Army Chorus & Dance Ensemble This ensemble from Moscow will be performing classical Russian favorites. Suseong Artpia in Daegu.

7 pm. W30,000 – W70,000. ssartpia.or.kr 053-666-1800

Family & Community Through October 3rd Arim Art Festival One thing you can count on at a Korean festival is a fireworks show, and this one starts right off the bat with one during the opening ceremonies on September 30th. From there the festival will include arts such as photography, Chinese calligraphy, dance, traditional Korean instrumental performances and more. Held in Geochang-gun, Geochang-eup (read: the boonies). arimje.co.kr 055-945-2234 Andong Maskdance Festival This is a biggie. Taking place in the closest thing to traditional Korea existing today, Hahoe Folk Village, dances that have been performed for generations will be on display. maskdance.com 054-840-6398 Through October 24th Onggi Expo in Ulsan Korea Encounter traditional Korean pottery, also known as Onggi (옹기) at Oegosan Onggi Village, Ulju-gun, Ulsan. onggiexpo.com 052-257-8830

October 8th – 10th Silla Cultural Festival Gyeongju is famous as the capital of the Silla Dynasty, and this festival features a “Silla Village” where you can experience the customs and lifestyle of bygone years.

Join in the fun throughout the city of Gyeongju and at Hwangseong Park. eguide.gyeongju.go.kr 054-779-6395

GYEONGSANG

international bands from Germany, Japan and Canada participating. Starts at 7 pm on the 29th and at 6 pm on the 30th and 31st.

3.15 Art Center in Changwon. W15,000 per showing, specials available for 3-show tickets. 315art.net 055-286-0315

October 14th – 17th Yacht and Boat Korea Over 150 companies are set to exhibit their yachts and boats along with the marina products, water sports equipment, boating schools, associations, resorts, and more. english.yachtkorea.or.kr 055-212-1331 October 21st – 23rd Busan International Fireworks Festival Thursday will boast a Hallyu Star Concert along with the fireworks.

Friday you get to watch fireworks teams from China, Italy and Portugal strut their stuff. Saturday promises a “High Tech Multimedia Fireworks Show”. Gwangalli Beach, Thu at 7 pm, Fri & Sat at 8 pm. festival.busan.kr/eng 051-888-3395

Education & Conferences Through October 29th World Confucianism Festival Gyeongsang Province is where Confucianism was most prominent in the past. This festival presents details of Confucian culture in the region. Events will take place at nine different venues. worldcf.co.kr 054-851-7182 September 30th - October 3rd Busan International Architectural Culture Festival Architects and

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E DITOR’ S PICK

Pusan International Film Festival Film October 7th - 15th

Coming soon to a theater near you: the 15th Pusan International Film Festival (PIFF). This October, at least 200,000 guests will experience the very best that Asian cinema has to offer. With over 300 films from 60 countries, PIFF is Asia’s largest and most prestigious international film festival. Screenings take place at theaters in Haeundae and Nampo-dong where the stars can also be spotted catching a world premiere—or a cup of coffee. Though noncompetitive, PIFF officially recognizes exceptional international cinema, especially the work of new directors through the New Currents award and Asian filmmakers through funding programs that connect international producers with promising pan-Asian talent.

Follow PIFF on twitter (@PIFF_org) for the latest. piff.org Words by Mik e Luedk e environmentalists of Busan rejoice! We’ve found your event. The exhibition’s concept is “Conservation & Innovation II” and it will be taking place at BEXCO Hall 3A. Exhibits will include a look at the vision of Busan’s future currently under development and a look at European architectural technology. biacf.org 051-888-4758

October 21st – 25th Cheolma Hanwoo Bulgogi Festival There are lots of the usual soap-making and fish-catching games, but it’s sure to be the free hanwoo bulgogi that brings you down to Gijang-gun for the festival.

Events held at the fields near Jangjeon River. cmhanwoo.com 051-722-1697

Dine & Drink

Sports & Fitness

October 1st – 4th Yeongcheon Herbal Medicine Festival Get a taste of the rich history and roots (sometimes literal) of Oriental medicine at Pharmacy Street (Yakjeon Geori) in Yeongcheon, just east of Daegu. herb.yc.go.kr 054-330-2830 October 9th – 31st Mungyeong Apple Festival The theme of this fruit-tastic festival is “The Apple That Snow White Loved.” That’s actually kind of scary, but we guarantee that there’s no poison in these tasty apples.

Mungyeong Saejae Provincial Park. mgapp.com 054-550-8266 October 14th – 17th Busan International Cafe & Bakery Show Exactly what it sounds like: you’ll be inundated (though not literally, we hope) with coffee, cookies, chocolate, and tea. 10/14 – 10/15 are for buyers only, 10/16 – 10/17 are open to the public. BEXCO (Busan Exposition and Convention Center). W5,000. idreamkorea.co.kr/café 051-862-8810 Busan International Wine & Spirit Show Your cup runneth over at this huge booze show. Over a hundred companies represented. 10/14 – 10/15 are for buyers only, 10/16 – 10/17 are open to the public.

BEXCO (Busan Exposition and Convention Center). W10,000. idreamkorea.co.kr/drink 051-862-8810

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Sonata K-League Soccer 3rd Daegu vs Busan at Daegu Field 3 pm 9th Pohang vs Gwangju at Pohang Steel Yard 3 pm 9th Ulsan vs Jeonbuk at Ulsan Munsu Soccer Field 5 pm 9th Busan vs Seongnam at Busan Asiad Field 5 pm 15th Pohang vs Busan at Pohang Steel Yard 7:30pm 16th Gyeongnam vs Gangwon at Changwon Soccer Field 7pm 17th Ulsan vs Seoul at Ulsan Munsu field, TBA 27th Busan vs Suwon at Busan Asiad Field 7 pm 27th Daegu vs Jeonbuk at Daegu Field 7 pm 30th Ulsan vs Incheon at Ulsan Munsu Field 3 pm 31st Daegu vs Jeju at Daegu Field 3 pm 31st Gyeongnam vs Daejeon at Changwon Soccer Field 3 pm

Nightlife October 9th “Cinematic Love” Party 2010 Dance your hearts out at the official Pusan International Film Festival after-party featuring Dj Doc, Leessang and Tomoyuki Tanaka (Fantastic Plastic Machine). 10 pm – 2 am. W35,000 in advance, W40,000 at the door. ticket.interpark.com 070-7806-6127

Passion: Dir. Byamba Sakhya, Mongolia, 2010, 80min

GYEONGSANG CALENDAR

GYEONGSANG DIRECTORY

Gyeongsang PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance Busan Foundation for Int’l Activities bfia.or.kr 051-898-3740, 051-865-0133 Geoje Foreign Resident Association gfra.net 055-687-9332 Ulsan Global Center 052-229-2810 Ulsan Online ulsanonline.com

Education Ayurveda Yoga Academy Certification course for would-be yoga teachers in Daegu. Sat 10 am – 7 pm.

Call Yatren at 011-9547-5181 Sand Sculpture Classes Haeundae Beach. Every Sun 1 - 3 pm. W10,000.

051-749-7611 Yoga Classes Each 1st and 3rd Sunday from 12:30 – 1:30 pm. Buy the Book Cafe in Daegu. megan.deutsch@gmail. com 010-7794-1218

Drinks, Western food and fun delivered next to Haeundae.

051-742-2959 Gumi Waegook Cook American Gumi’s original foreign-owned and operated restaurant, serving steaks, hamburgers, seafood, pastas, and German cuisine. waegookcook.com 054-444-3775 Daegu Buy the Book Western This bookstore and café is your source for free yoga, theater, and parties. Downtown Daegu. Open weekends. buythebookcafe@yahoo.com Café Francesco Italian Italian cuisine and good coffee. Near Rodeo Street.

053-252-9625 Dijon French Up-market French and Mediterranean cuisine. 053-422-2426 Hami Mami’s American One of Daegu’s best brunches. 50m from the US base.

8 am – 10 pm.

053-475-5242

Hotels/Accommodations 4 – 5 Star Hotels Busan Lotte Hotel 051-810-1000 Novotel Ambassador 051-743-1234 Seacloud 051-933-1000 Daegu Novotel Ambassador 053-664-1101 Hostels Busan Arpina 051-740-3228 Zen Backpackers 010-8722-1530

Radio TBS eFM Busan FM 90.5 US Armed Forces Network Jinhae AM 1512 / FM 88.5 Daegu AM 1080 / FM 88.5 Pohang AM 1512 Waegwan AM 1080 / FM 88.5

Daegu Hotel Inter-Burgo DAEGU: 300, Manchon-dong, Soosung-gu, Daegu, Korea. Tel: +82-53-6027-114 Hotel Inter-Burgo EXCO, Sangyeok 2-dong, Buk-gu, Daegu, Korea. Tel: +82-53-3800-114 2nd Floor Restaurant 3rd Floor Sports Lounge

www.ibhotel.com

Restaurants Busan Ganga Indian Opposite Haeundae Beach. ganga.co.kr 051-740-6670

Live Music Venues Club Interplay Busan cafe.daum.net/ interplaycafe 051-517-4773 Club Heavy Daegu cafe.daum.net/ clubheavy96 010-2338-1340 Club Metal Boys Gyeongju cafe.daum.net/metalboys 011-9599-8370

Bars/Lounges/Pubs Busan Aligote Wines, cheese platters, and excellent service. Haeundae. 6 pm – 3 am. aligote-busan.com 051-731-3322 Basement Open mic nights on Tuesdays and parties galore.

011-9294-2391 Fuzzy Navel Great drinks and great Mexican food as well. 011-1757-6349 The HQ Bar Kyungsung’s only foreignerowned bar with sports and dart games. busankart@yahoo.com Rock ‘n’ Roll House Western-style bar

with darts and pool and a great view of Haeundae.

051-742-5553 Sosa Bar A cozy latin bar close to Pusan National University.

051-513-0070 Daegu Ping Bar Great drinks, a pool table, and music upon request. Samdeok Catholic Church. 7 pm - 5 am. withhyk@hanmail.net 053-422-7708

Islamic Mosque Busan busanislam.or.kr 051-518-9991 Okpo Joonang Presbyterian Geoje Island 010-2586-7520, 010-3873-1652 Sumgim Presbyterian Church Geoje Island sumgim.org 017-577-3096

Beauty

Clubs Busan Elune Lots of international acts. Paradise Hotel.

010-5525-4055 Maktum Club dancing, events, launching shows, sports parties. 9 pm – 6 am. maktum.co.kr 051-742-0770 NEO Starface “Latin Club” Free salsa classes weekdays from 8 pm. Saturdays boast a live band and/or DJs. Haeundae. neostarface.com 051-746-1746 Vinyl Underground Delivers fresh breaks, house, funk, electro, tech house, hip hop. B2 Han La Building.

9 pm - 6 am.

051-628-0223 Daegu Club That Located on the rodeo just down from the Samdok fire station. clubthat.co.kr 053-427-7171 Old Skool Hip hop bar great for dancing, socializing or drinking. “Old SkooL: Daegu Muzik Club Bar” on Facebook.

Religious Services Bujeon Church Busan 051-807-3331 Catholic Center Busan bccenter.or.kr 051-441-6403 Hongbeopsa Temple 051-508-3470 Busan busanbuddhism.com/hannarae Hosanna Church Busan hosanna21.com 051-209-0191 Podowon Church Busan 051-333-3736 Shipyungro Church Busan spr.or.kr 051-220-0200 Sooyeongno Church Busan 051-740-4500 Pusan University of Foreign Studies Busan 051-640-3445

t Professional Service

t Western/

Foreign Hair Stylist

t Colourists

specializing in Highlights/ Lowlights

Int’l hair stylist now available in Korea Gorilla Burger Thursday Party

To Gallery Zone Urban

Berkeley 3rd FL Downtown Daegu

To Novotel

Frigo Hair Internationally renowned stylist Roberto Frigo (TONI&GUY, TIGI) keeps you looking your best with the latest hair trends. Based in Daegu, within easy reach of Seoul and Busan. frigoroberto@hotmail.com 010-2351-0055

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GYEONGSANG

053-423-4048 The Holy Grill Western Owned and operated by Canadians, the Grill provides expats with fantastic sandwiches, burgers, Tex-Mex and breakfast in a chilled-out environment that feels more like a lounge than a burger joint. Move up to the 3rd floor to catch major sporting events.

053-423-4048 Leo Chow Mexican A decent selection of burritos and tacos.

053-255-7111 Maya Indian Gyeongbuk University.

053-214-1916 Samarkland Russian Daegu station.

053-252-4021 Siji Taco Mexican Spicy tacos at competitive prices 053-791-5050 South St. Western Philly cheesesteaks and cold cuts in Suseong-gu. blog. naver.com/southst105 053-768-7867

Gecko’s Western Perched on lovely Haeundae Beach at the Pale de CZ, you can get all of that authentic Western food you’re used to back home, and you’ll find bartenders who know how to mix a real margarita. 051747-3069 Kebabistan Russian Uzbeki restaurant serving kebabs, soups and stews.

Busan Station.

051-581-4050 Sunset Lounge American

Wonju Hotel Inter-Burgo Wonju: 1401-10, Bangok-dong, Wonju-si, Kwangwon-do, Korea. Tel : +82-33-769-8114

JEOLLA CALENDAR J E OLL A DIS C OV ER Y

Art & Design Through November 7th The Gwangju Biennale: 10,000 Lives The 8th Gwangju Biennale investigates the relationships that bind people to images and images to people. Gwangju Biennale Hall, the Gwangju Museum of Art, and the Gwangju Folk Museum.

9 am - 6 pm. gb.or.kr 062-608-4114 Through October 10th “Like a Rolling River” Exhibit 90 pieces of art explore the mythical and cultural significance of the Mangyeong, Dongjin, and Seomjin Rivers. Jeonbuk Province Art Museum in Wanju-gun.

Closed Mon. 10 am – 6 pm. Free. jbartmuse.go.kr 063-280-4343 October 15th – 21st Korean Calligraphy Competition Originally submitted on Liberation Day, these pieces express patriotic sentiments.

North Jeolla Art Center in Jeonju.

10 am – 6 pm. sori21.co.kr 063-284-4445

Turn at The First A lleyway At Gwangju’s newest expat-run establishment, eat some home-cooked grub and enjoy the laid-back vibe, all while helping out a valued member of the community.

W o r d s an d s h ot s b y Hu g h i e S ams o n

H

JEOLLA

ead down to Gwangju’s lively downtown for one of the city’s newest foreign food restaurants. Open since this spring, The First Alleyway has been offering simple yet delicious fare that can satisfy any expat’s taste buds. Falafel pitas, pulled pork tacos, and all-day breakfast on Sundays are just a few of the many available delicacies.

In addition to the good food, there’s also good service and atmosphere. The cook, servers and owner speak English fluently and are friendly and courteous as well. The restaurant’s interior is uncluttered, clean and smoke-free. The first floor acts as a dining area, the second floor doubles as a pub serving a variety of alcoholic beverages, and the rooftop is sometimes open so patrons can enjoy some fresh air. After your meal, you can drop by the Underground Grocers, Gwangju’s premiere foreign food grocery store conveniently located just next door.

One particularly good reason for frequenting both businesses right now is because any purchases you make will support Canadian Michael Simning, owner of the First Alleyway and co-owner of the Underground Grocers. Michael was diagnosed with leukemia just a couple of weeks ago, and since then his friends have banded together to run both during his absence so that he isn’t forced to close their doors while he remains in the hospital over the next several months. For updates on Michael’s health, see “The Official Michael Simning Fan Club” on Facebook.

The First Alleyway Wed - Sat: 5 - 10 pm, Sun: 11 am - 5 pm.

Facebook “The First Alleyway” The Underground Grocers Wed: 11 - 7 pm, Thu and Fri: 1 -7 pm, weekends: 12 - 7 pm. Facebook “The Underground Grocers in Gwangju” ugfoods.co.kr 062-232-2626 68 | 10 Magazine October 2010

October 29th – November 4th Hanji Fashion Trends Exhibit No longer just the material for cheap souvenirs in Insadong, hanji is the theme of this fashion show featuring work by designers from Korea and abroad. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju.

10 am – 6 pm. sori21.co.kr 063-274-0570

Performances October 2nd – 16th Gwangju Int’l Performance Art Festival Quench your craving for exciting dance and theater with this month’s performances. 10/2 – 10/3: A Midsummer Night’s Dream by Traveler Art Troupe adapts Shakespeare’s play for a Korean audience. Sat 7:30 pm, Sun 4:00 pm. 10/5: Malson, by the Cuban dance troupe DanzAbierta. 7:30 pm.

10/10: Asian Folk Dances. 4 pm. Sat 7:30 pm, Sun 4 pm. 10/16: Stom, a play by the Pushkin Drama Theater. 6 pm. Gwangju Culture and Art Center, W10,000 – W20,000. art.gjcity.net 062-510-9251 October 7th B-boy Marionette Performance Gochang Culture Center. 7:30 pm. culture.gccl.kr 063-560-2321 The Drawing Show You’ve heard of performance art, but this is more like art performance with the actors reproducing great works of art on stage. Samsung Culture and Art Center of Jeonbuk University. 7 pm. Free. cnucc.chonbuk.ac.kr 02-3288-7876 October 8th – 10th Mamma Mia: The Musical Mokpo Citizen’s Culture and Athletic Center.

Fri 7:30 pm, Sat 3, 7:30 pm, Sun 2 pm.

W50,000 – W110,000. art.mokpo.go.kr 061-270-8375 October 21st Kongjwi and Patjwi: The Ballet This ballet is based on “Kongjwi and Patjwi,” a famous Korean tale similar to the Cinderella story. Samsung Culture and Art Center of Jeonbuk University. 7pm. Free. cnucc.chonbuk.ac.kr 063-253-5358 October 17th Moldova Radio Orchestra Gochang Culture Center. 7:30pm. culture.gccl.kr 063-560-2321

Family & Community October 2nd – 10th Chrysanthemum Festival Festivities dedicated to this fine flower will be held at Gujeolcho Park in Jeongeup. gujulcho.co.kr 063-539-6171

October 6th – 10th Horizon Festival Though Korea is no longer a largely agricultural society, festivals like this one serve to remind us of the past. Gimje. festival.gimje.go.kr 063-540-3031 October 8th – 10th The Great Battle of Myeongrang Festival This straight, located between Haenam and Jindo, was the site of a famous victory over the Japanese invaders by Admiral Yi Sun-shin in 1597.

The festival takes place at Woosugwang Resort in Haenam-gun and Nokjin Resort in Jindo-gun. mrdc.kr 061-286-5251 October 23rd – 24th Gulf of Yeoja Mudflat Sunset Festival The glow of the sun setting into the gulf of Yeoja is a thing of beauty. The shore at Jangcheok Village in Yeosu. festival.yeosu.go.kr 061-690-2602 October 29th – November 7th Ten Million Chrysanthemum Festival The whole area will be bursting with chrysanthemum blooms. Main events at Iksan Central Athletic Park. festival.iksan.go.kr 063-859-5797 October 30th – 31st Jeongeupsa Festival This festival celebrates “Jeongeupsa,” a sad love song written more than a thousand years ago. Jeongeupsa Park in Jeongeup. jchf.or.kr 063-532-8880

Education & Conferences Ongoing GIC Talks The Gwangju International Center organizes a lecture in English nearly every Saturday from 2:30– 4 pm.

Typical speakers include professors, writers, and diplomats. See website for this month’s lectures. gic.or.kr 062-226-2733

Dine & Drink October 7th – 10th Gwangju International Food Fair Kim Daejung Center in Gwangju. foodshow.kr 062-611-2213 October 8th – 10th Sunchang Hot Sauce Festival At the Sunchang Traditional Gochujang Village. hotsauce.go.kr 063-650-1611 October 20th – 24th Jeonju Bibimbap Festival Korea’s representative food at its finest. For bibimbap, there’s nowhere but Jeonju. Jeonju Hanok Village. bibimbapfest.com 063-277-2515 October 21st – 24th International Fermented Food Expo Meeting Plaza at Jeonju World Cup Stadium. iffe.or.kr 063-272-6998 October 23rd – 27th World Kimchi Culture Festival Around Jungoe Park in Gwangju. kimchi.gwangju.go.kr 062-613-3641

Sport & Fitness Sonata K-League Football 2nd Jeonbuk vs Gwangju at Jeonju World Cup Stadium, 3 pm 3rd Jeonnam vs Gangwon at Gwangyang Field, 7 pm 15th Jeonbuk vs Jeju at Jeonju World cup Stadium, 7 pm 16th Gwangju vs Daegu at Gwangju World Cup Stadium, 3 pm 16th Jeonnam vs Incheon at Gwangyang Field, 7 pm 27th Jeonnam vs Seongnam at Gwangyang Field, 7 pm 30th Jeonbuk vs Jeonnam at Jeonju World Cup Stadium, 1 pm

E DITOR’ S PICK

Formula One Grand Prix Community October 9th

Sporting Event October 22nd – 24th

Over the years, the Gwangju International Center (gic. or.kr) has done a lot for the expat community in this southwestern Korean city, and one of its biggest events each year is the Gwangju International Community Day. The event is organized to promote cultural exchange, and what better incentive could there be than food to eat, shows to watch, and stuff to buy? The world food program brings you tasty dishes (W3,000 or less) prepared by international residents of Gwangju wearing the traditional attire of their homeland. There will also be a flea market running all day, which may be your perfect chance to replace that old toaster. Located outside the Kim daejung Convention Center. 11:30 am – 5 pm. Contact Minsu Kim at 062-226-2733 or gwangjuic@gmail.com

Racing fans were elated to hear that an F1 Grand Prix will be held in Korea for the first time in the sport’s sixtyyear history. For this 3-day extraordinary event, the Korean International Circuit has built an impressive structure which employs a rare counter-clockwise design only utilized in five other countries. This unique direction is sure to provide an interesting challenge for all racers, even those well-versed in top formula racing.

For tickets, Cosmojin Tours (cosmojin.com) provides a package solely dedicated to the special event. The tour starts in Seoul and goes to the Yeongam F1 Circuit in South Jeolla Province, location of the Grand Prix. Also check out Cosmojin’s exceptional discounts on seats (02-318-0345 or 02-795-0355). koreangp.kr, info@ikavo.com Words by I na e Oh

Gwangju Int’l Community Day

Hotels/Accommodations

JEOLLA PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance Gwangju International Center gwangjuic.or.kr 062-226-1050

Religious Services

Museums Gochang Dolmen Museum 9 am – 5 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, teens W2,000, children W1,000. gcdolmen.go.kr 063-560-2576 Iksan Jewel Museum 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. jewelmuseum.go.kr 063-859-4641 Jeonju Oriental Medicine Cultural Center 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. hanbangcenter.com 063-232-2500 Jeonju Traditional Alcohol Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Free. urisul.net 063-287-6305 Jeonju Traditional Cultural Center jt.or.kr 063-280-7045 Mokpo Natural Museum 9 am – 6 pm.

Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. museum.mokpo.go.kr 061-294-3655 Mokpo Ceramic Livingware Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. doja.mokpo.go.kr 061-270-8480

Radio TBS eFM Gwangju FM 98.7 US Armed Forces Network Gunsan

AM 1440/FM 88.5 Gwangju FM 88.5

Restaurants/Supermarkets First Nepal Restaurant firstnepal.com 062-225-8771 Tequilaz Gwangju’s first Mexican cantina serves up your south-of-theborder favorites with magical margaritas and, of course, killer tequilas. tequilaz.com, tequilaz@gmail.com Underground Grocers Gwangju This foreigner-run food shop has those hardto-find cheeses, taco shells and other delicacies you crave.

062-232-2626

JEOLLA

Antioch Presbyterian Church Jeonju andiok.kr 063-274-3228 Iri Joongang Church Iksan

063-851-4311 Musangsa Muan-gun 042-841-6084

Gwangju Youth Hostel 062-943-4378 Ramada Plaza Gwangju ramadagwangju.com 062-717-7000

Live Music Venues Bars/Lounges/Pubs Art & Travel Cafe Jeonju Open mic nights every Wednesday from 9 pm.

Facebook group, 011-9437-0208 Deepin Jeonju Popular expat bar with Texas Holdem on Sundays.

019-9646-1028 Led Zeppelin Art Space Jeonju Hosts underground bands both expat and Korean. cafe.daum.net/k250073

018-607-6321 Speakeasy Gwangju The fun never stops at this fantastic bar owned and operated by honest Irishman Derrek Hannon.

010-4713-3825 San Antonio Latin Bistro Suncheon Suncheon surprises with this Latinthemed restaurant and bar. Facebook group, pyroz@hotmail.com 061-724-2234

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JEJU CALENDAR J E J U DIS C OV ER Y

Art Ongoing Heung-su Kim and Gwang-jin Park Exhibit These two Korean painters’ works are featured in the permanent collection at the Jeju Contemporary Art Museum. 9 am – 6 pm. Adults W1,000, students W500. jejumuseum.go.kr 064-710-7801

Performances

JEJU ISLAND Religious Services Jeju Anglican/Episcopal Church Sinjeju 010-2500-6780

Classes Woodcarving and Engraving Workshop Jeju Museum of Art. Weekdays 10 – 11:30 am, 2 – 3:30 pm; weekends 10 – 11:30 am, 2 – 4 pm.

Hotels/Accommodations Hotel Lotte Jeju 5-Star Jeju Hiking Inn Hostel hikinginn.com

Fresh from the Garden Once you’ve given your order at Shara’s Garden, don’t be surprised if your next sight of the order-taker is through the window as she picks your meal. Owner Monica (Shin Young) is a fan of slow food, preferably organic, and grows many of her ingredients mere meters away from the table.

Shara’s Garden is perfect for a romantic tryst or a scrumptious solo meal as you relax with a book. If you’re dining alone, have the sandwich set (home-made soup, freshpicked salad and chicken-breast sandwich for W10,000) or share La Polo Loco (W30,000) with a friend or two.

It’s a little off the beaten track in the sleepy village of Seonheul-ri but not far from two tourist must-sees – Geomeun Oreum and Hamdeok Beach – and well worth the detour. Phone ahead at 070-7773-9631 to get directions from Monica. Words and shot by T r ac i e Ba r r et t E DITOR’ S PICK

Seogwipo Chilsimni Festival JEJU ISLAND

Family & Community October 22nd - 24th

The mysterious-sounding name of this festival actually has a commonplace explanation. “Chilsimni,” meaning “seventy li (27 km),” refers to the distance from the magistrate’s post to Seogwipo Port in the 15th century. For the last sixteen years, the festival has served as an opportunity for Seogwipo residents and visitors to celebrate the beauty and traditions of the area. Stop by the Eternal Youth Road for a cooking contest and free tasting of Jeju delicacies like black pork throughout the festival. Another big event is the Chilsimni Parade (10/22 4:30 – 6:30 pm), where you can see locals wearing their finest traditional garb. Get creative with fun activities like pot making, flute making, tangerine squeezing, and natural soap making. Events held around Seogwipo on the south coast of Jeju. 70ni.com 064-739-7201 70 | 10 Magazine October 2010

064-731-1000 064-763-2380

Medical Services

Nanta Nanta, the non-verbal performance that got started ten years ago, is a feast for the ears that turns ordinary kitchen pots and pans into a rhythm section. Jeju Media Center in Jeju City (064-727-7800).

90 min. Sun 8 pm, Tue – Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 pm, 8 pm. W40,000 - W50,000. nanta.i-pmc.co.kr 1544-1555 October 27th The Annual Jeju Buddhist Women’s Choir Concert Enjoy a night of Korean Buddhist hymns, songs and mediation.

Special guest appearance by Master Buddhist Priest Seong Gak. Jeju Culture and Art Center. 7:30 pm. Free. jejuculture.or.kr 010-8660-0104

Dr. Chung’s Pediatric Clinic chung56@pednet.co.kr 064-748-1546 Hanna Women’s Clinic hannaobgy.com 064-711-7717 Pyeonhan Dental Clinic e-pretty.co.kr 064-758-2800

Radio Arirang Radio Jeju City: FM 88.7

Seoguipo: FM 88.1

Restaurants Bagdad Cafe Indian. Delicious, authentic Indian food made from local ingredients in a gorgeous atmosphere. Near City Hall in Jeju City 064-757-8182 Dom Jang Japanese. Spectacular sushi in several locations all over the island.

The best atmosphere is in Jungmun.

064-738-2550 El Paso Mexican. Rather bland but adequate Mexican food in a central location in Jeju City.

064-752-8252

Family & Community October 1st - 3rd Jeju Tamra Culture Festival Now in its 49th year, the Jeju Tamra Culture Festival is one of Jeju’s oldest yearly events. The merriment includes a parade, fireworks at Sinsang Park, and performances of all kinds. For those who enjoy the visual arts, there will also be art festivals and photography competitions. culture.jeju.go.kr 064-710-3417~18 October 5th - 7th Daejeong District Chusa Culture and Art Festival Come and enjoy village folk performances, a historical photo exhibition and other events at a festival that commemorates an important historical figure of the Joseon Dynasty, master and founder of Chusa calligraphy, Jeong-hee Kim. Chusajeokgeoji (064760-3406) just west of Seogwipo. culture.jeju.go.kr 064-760-2481 October 8th - 17th Jeju Horse Festival Try your hand at rounding up horses, horseback martial arts, and for the brave epicurean, horse meat. Jeju Racecourse Park. culture.jeju.go.kr 064-641-9251 October 9th - 10th Bonggae Peace Trekking Festival This festival gets participants in touch with nature with four kinds of treks in and around 4-3 Peace Park and Jeolmul Recreation Forest. culture.jeju.go.kr 064-721-0282

Sports Sonata K-League Football 3rd Jeju vs Gyeongnam at 3 pm 27th Jeju vs Seoul at 7 pm at Jeju World Cup Stadium Seoguipo

Island Gecko’s Western. A varied menu of terrific Western food, plus maybe the best cocktails and service on the island.

The BBQ nights every weekend will blow you away with ribeye steak, sausages, and more for only W19,000. Jungmun.

064-739-0845 geckosterrace.com The Plate This modern bistro serves up a great American-style hamburger along with other Thai dishes. 064-746-8008

Bars/Lounges/Pubs Boris Brewery Bull’s Darts Bar Modern Time

064-726-4141 064-759-5559 064-748-4180

NETWORKING CALENDAR E dited by s o n g l e e Friday, October 1st SIWA Photo Field Trip Join professional photographer Mihe Shin on this field trip to one of the most exciting old parts of Seoul: Samcheong-dong. 3 pm. Non-members W15,000. siwapage.com The Kiwi Chamber Friday Night Hui Catch up with mates, enjoy a buffet, and meet special guests from the ASB Bank Team. RSVP at chamber@kiwichamber.com. Lobby Lounge at COEX Intercontinental. 6 pm. W28,000. kiwichamber.com Wednesday, October 6th AUSTCHAM Breakfast Forum Michael Breen, a British author and journalist, will be giving a speech at the AUSTCHAM breakfast forum at the Grand Hyatt Hotel. Non-members W50,000. 7:30 am – 9:30 am. austchamkorea.org Thursday, October 7th SIWA Newcomers’ Meeting A great chance to learn a little bit about the Seoul International Women’s Association and make new friends. Held at the Seoul Club at 10 am. W8,000. siwapage.com Monday, October 11th SIWA Jewelry Atelier Visit SIWA offers a rare chance to understand Korean culture through traditional and modern ornaments and other wonderful artwork by Korean jewelry master Mrs. Choi. Same items will be for sale.

Meet at Nonhyeon Stn. (line, 7, ex. 1) at 9:45 am.

W10,000. siwapage.com Tuesday, October 12th BASS Catch Up Coffee Catch up with old friends and meet new ones with this monthly BASS meeting. Starbucks, Somerset Palace at 10 am. britishseoul.com SIDance Festival Join the SIWA ladies to experience Israel Galván’s rhythmical and innovative flamenco dance at the SIDance Festival. Sejong Arts Center at 8 pm. siwapage.com Wednesday, October 13th SIWA Korean Culinary Tour SIWA is taking a special tour of Kwangjang traditional market and cooking class to learn how to make Korean food from a Korean chef. The menu includes kimchi jeon (pancakes), dak-bokkeum-tang (braised red chicken barbecue) and a seasonal side salad. Meet at Eujiro 4-ga Stn. (lines 2 & 5, ex. 4) at 10 am. W60,000 for non-members. siwapage.com

BIWA Monthly Luncheon 10 am – 2 pm. Location TBA. biwa-korea.com Thursday, October 14th BCCK Breakfast Seminar A great chance to learn about Korea’s new pension scheme and prepare for a better future. Astor Suite, Lotte Hotel. 7:30 - 10:30 am. W60,000 for nonmembers. bcck.or.kr

2010 October

Thu AUSTCHAM G-20 th Business Awards Gala Event

28

Friday, October 15th AWC Coffee Morning Come and enjoy the Oktoberfest atmosphere with German food, beer and wine tasting at the Hillside Residence Club House. Check in at 9:30 am, program begins at 10 am with lunch at 11 am. Nonmembers W28,000. awckorea.org Sunday, October 17th Peace Queen Cup Football Match Come out to World Cup Stadium with family and friends to enjoy a great soccer match between the Korean and New Zealand women’s football teams.

2 pm.

Tuesday, October 19th ANZA Santa Fe Hat Party Enjoy a glass of champagne and enter the draw to win one of 60 fabulous designer hats courtesy of Santa Fe. anzakorea.com Wednesday, October 20th SIWA Coffee Morning Find out which foods will add to your wellbeing with guest speaker Mary-Jane Liddicoat. Grand Ambassador Hotel. 9:30 - 11:30 am. W17,000 for non-members. siwapage.com Friday, October 22nd AWC Newcomer’s Luncheon 11-12 pm at Vin Vino Restaurant in Itaewon. awckorea.org Tuesday, October 26th BASS Monthly Meeting BASS hosts its monthly get together at the Seoul Club. Catch up with friends and sign up for BASS events. Members and non-members are welcome at this relaxed morning tea. 10 am - noon. W14,000 non-members. britishseoul.com New Zealand Wine Experience The Kiwi Chamber will treat guests at the event to 80 premium New Zealand red and white wines.

Greenshell mussels, cheeses, and other tasty Kiwi finger foods will also be served. Seoul Plaza Hotel. 8 – 10:30 pm. W80,000. chamber@kiwichamber.com

The Australian Chamber of Commerce in Korea is hosting its annual Business Award gala event in conjunction with the G-20 Summit this year. A total of 17 Korean and foreign companies will vie for the awards of Investment of the Year, Best SME, Best Services Company, Trade Excellence and Business of the Year Award.

This will be an excellent chance to network with senior representatives of key Australian, Korean and global companies including POSCO, SK, GS Caltex, Samsung, Woodside, Chevron, KPMG, Macquarie Bank and Rio Tinto among many others. Book now for an excellent evening of networking and live entertainment celebrating the achievements of leading companies in the Australia-Korea business community.

Grand Hyatt Hotel. 6.30 pm.

W120,000 per person. Contact Jennifer Kim at austchamkorea@gmail.com or 010-3281-3229. austchamkorea.org

ANZA Australian and New Zealand

Association of Korea Austcham Australian Chamber of Commerce AWC American Women’s Club BASS British Association of Seoul BCCK British Chamber of Commerce Korea BIWA Busan International Women’s

Association IAK Irish Association of Korea Kiwi Chamber New Zealand Chamber

of Commerce SIWA Seoul International Women’s

Association

NETWORKING CALENDAR 10 Magazine October 2010 | 71

An Uplifting Experience Words by Sa m a n t h a Di x- H i ll , I llustration by h y eon - seu ng ry u

A

few weeks ago I was running frantically through the subway in a hopeless attempt to catch a connecting train, when I was side tracked by a pair of padded panties. All thoughts of reaching my destination vanished as I skidded to a halt and checked if my eyes were deceiving me.

We’re all familiar with the padded bra, some a little more than others, but the padded panty is new to me. At first I thought I was mistaken and grabbed a pair, surreptitiously trying to put my arms through the leg holes. Perhaps this was a new style of padded bra? But judging by the look on the stall owner’s face, these were panties, no doubt about it. Who would want a bigger butt is a mystery to me.

Suddenly I had an idea.

You cannot pick up a magazine these days without being told how to spice up your love life. And I’m not just referring to women’s magazines. Men’s magazines have the same articles; they’re just presented a little differently. Instead of a blow-by-blow howto manual on the subject, they merely slap in a couple of pictures of the latest Hollywood hottie and viola, the rest is left up to the personal interpretation of the reader.

I’m all for this, but when you reach my age and you’ve been married as long as I have it isn’t a matter of simply throwing on a negligee and a pair of heels à la a certain Hilton sister and hoping for the best. We’ve already established that I’m hopeless in heels and quite frankly I find lacy underwear rather scratchy.

Add to this the fact that my body is not as committed to the task as my mind as certain parts have started sliding south like a blob of jello that’s been thrown against a wall.

But standing there in the sweltering subway a whole new world opened up to me. Twenty

minutes later I left armed with a padded bra, padded panties and a few other goodies, any thought of my previous plans happily forgotten.

I should mention at this juncture that I’ve never really seen the point of padded underwear. Admittedly it can make your clothes fit a little better, but if you’re young and single and you meet that special somebody he (or she) is under the impression that you look a certain way. But then you have that “let me slip into something more comfortable” moment and reappear with a not so perky body. That seems like false advertising to me.

Anyway, a couple of nights later I found an opportunity to model my new look which included slippers attached to floor mops in bright pink and decorated with little green flowers; padded panties in the only color available, boring beige; a padded bra, again in beige (it’s essential to match these items for maximum effect); a sun-visor that covered my entire face and half my neck (clearly I don’t need to explain the benefits of this); and finally, long white gloves up to my elbows, meant for sun-protection and not for weddings, yet still managing to convey a certain sense of elegance.

The initial look of panic on my husband’s face morphed into one of curiosity at the sight of my feet encased in mops and I was required to spend the next ten minutes demonstrating how I could clean the floor while walking around the house performing other useful tasks. A little tricky as I kept bumping into random objects, thanks to the sun-visor.

These days I might not be able to pull off heels and negligees anymore but at least I can get my husband to laugh.

And let’s face it, there’s nothing quite as sexy as a sense of humor, is there?

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