10 Magazine 2011 July

Art • Theater • Concerts • Film • Community • Fitness • Dine & Drink • Nightlife • TRAVEL

Korea awaits! • july 2011 VOL. 3 NO. 10

Printed using 100% soy ink.

외국인의 한국생활 노하우

KORN

THE TING TINGS

BOOHWAL

PLAIN WHITE T'S

WONDERBIRD

NO BRAIN

!!!

GARION

SCHIZO

NEON TREES

VASSLINE

PARANA

MAMAS GUN

IDIOTAPE

GALAXY EXPRESS

THE GEEKS

THE BLACK SKIRTS

JOE BROOKS

VIDULGI OOYOO

WhangBoRyung =SMACKSOFT

LINUS'S BLANKET

13 STEPS

SUPER 8 BIT

BYE BYE BADMAN

BONI

EASTERN SIDE KICK

JAMBINAI

CHOI GO EUN

july 2011 vol. 3 No. 10 6 From the Editor / Shot of Korean

Nationwide Calendar

Jisa n Rock Festiva l in 2010

40 Movies X-Men: First Class, Inside Job, and Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter… and Spring

8 Contributors 10 Blog of the Month / Korea by the Numbers

41 TV Kiss & Cry on SBS 42 Music Billy Joel, The Pimps of Joytime, and F.T. Island

11 Reader’s 10 12 10 Questions Michael Spavor

14 History Baseball at the Gold Mine

Books Globish, The Last Lingua Franca, and The Information

43 Tech Starting a Blog

Regional Calendar

16 Taste of Korea Galbi

39 Seoul Editor’s Pick Richard Gere’s Pilgrim Photo Exhibit

18 In the Kitchen Ken Choi at T.G Brunch

44 Seoul Restaurant Review Jung Sik Dang ANZU

20 Expat Expertise English Teaching Certifications

46 Seoul Discovery Ichon-dong: A Taste of Tokyo

22 Fashion & Style Korean Cosmetics

49 Seoul Editor’s Picks Recommended Art Exhibits 61 Gangwon Discovery Jung-do: Chuncheon’s Island Getaway 65 Gyeongsang Discovery The Past and Present of Igidae

26 Music Learning the Gayageum 32 Hotel & Resort News 34 Expat News 35 Newcomers 36 Gastronomic News 38 Locations with 10 74 A Happy Ending

Summer of Rock

70 Editor's Pick The Hoesan White Lotus Habitat

28 It’s blisteringly hot and the mosquitoes are out in force, but that doesn’t stop the crowds from converging on Korea’s music festivals each July and August. This year, Korn, Arctic Monkeys, Incubus, The Chemical Brothers, and other Western bands join their Korean counterparts on stages at the Jisan Valley Rock Fest and the Pentaport Rock Fest.

Shot by Andy Clay

24 Sports & Fitness Kuk Sool Won

68 Korean Destination End of the Road, Korea

72 Jeju Discovery Seon Cultural Experience Center

Foreigner Friendly Korea

I

just returned from a trip to Japan for a friend’s wedding.

I had a wonderful time and met a lot of great people, but, um, how can I put this politely? Tokyo’s great and the people are very nice and helpful, but they seem to make Japan for the Japanese, and they’re cool if you visit, but they’d be happier if their visitors spoke Japanese, thank you.

Fortunately, I had the help of my friend, but without it I would have been utterly lost, which reminded me how amazingly welcoming to visitors Korea has become—partially because I was utterly lost when I first got here and I’ve watched them improve things every step of the way.

Every subway station has a huge English map now with easyto-read prices for each station. They’ve done an incredible job making it so intuitive to figure out thanks to the coloring system and the numbered exits. Heck, on some lines they’re announcing the stops in four languages now! Korean, English, Japanese and Chinese are all rattled off in an attempt to accommodate all of Korea’s top visiting nations. The only Korean I heard in Japan was in the bus from the airport and when the bride’s very talented Japanese father sang a Korean song during our post-wedding karaoke revelry.

Although the bus stops don’t display English for every location, they do for the major ones, so you can figure out which direction you’re going. Then when you get on any bus there is always an English version of the route you’re on with a great map to show you where you’re going. Imagine the work that went into doing that for every single bus route!

And then there are the incredibly useful hotlines.

Did you know about 1330? That’s the one from the Korea Tourism Organization which will hook you up with someone who speaks English 24 hours a day to help you with your travel needs.

Or 02-120? They’ll answer any question you have about Seoul–really, any question. We put them to work for us sometimes finding out information we need for the magazine. But

don’t tell them that.

How about 1339? That one will give you 24-hour English information about medical services, clinics and hospitals, and they’ll even translate for you du r i ng a med ical emergency. Yes, you need to memorize that one.

And then there are crucial nu mb e r s l i ke 1577- 8080, 1588-5588 and 1577-3082.

T hose are the nationwide nu mbers for Papa Joh n’s, Pizza Hut and Domino’s respectively. And they’ll all take orders in English, or they’ll have someone who speaks English call you back. Now that’s what I call service for visitors. It’s still of course up to you to know your delivery address in Korean, though.

Granted, I get tired of staff freaking out when I walk in the door, too. They begin to hyperventilate and push their co-workers in front of them on the assumption that there’s no way you could speak enough Korean to order a cajun twister. But then again, in Japan they just keep rattling off their Japanese to you as if you must be able to speak it, and if you can’t you should hurry up and learn. A little sign language and understanding that you might be katakana and hiragana-challenged would be much appreciated.

There’s got to be a way to gain a little balance here, and we can. We can gain perspective about the world with every experience abroad. As usual, it comes down to learning from your travels—both about the country you are visiting and the one you call home.

Steph en R ev er e M anaging E ditor

A Shot of Korean by Stephen Revere

워메!

[Weo-mae!] : Holy moly!

Long-time readers of 10 will remember that a long time ago, I taught the expression, “어머!” (Eo-meo!), which means, “Oh my gosh!” The funny thing about that expression, though, is that you’ll only hear it from women and very effeminate men (and foreign men learning Korean from their girlfriends). Should you not fall into one of those groups, you may want to use the fall-back expression above.

This one, however, is not as simple as it appears either. It’s originally a phrase used in Jeolla Province, and therefore it will also have Koreans in shock. Use it properly and you’ll either get a blank stare of complete disbelief that you could have any clue about it or, more likely, they will be bent over laughing at you.

Notice I say, “use it properly.” The accent is key here, so be sure to have a Korean friend model the phrase for you before you go and use it. The nasal up-and-down intonation is key! (Don’t tell them I taught you. They’ll say I’m a bad teacher and I should be teaching you “proper” Korean.)

재운이가 상 탔어! [Jae-un-i-ga sang tass-eo!] - Jae-woon won a prize! 워메! 잘 됐네! [Weo-mae! Jal dwaet-ne!] - Holy moly! That’s great!

Check out Survival Korean and Survival Korean: Basic Grammar Skills for more Korean lessons from 10’s Managing Editor, Stephen Revere.

6 | 10 Magazine July 2011

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"We are extremely pleased with the quality and service we receive from Kobeak Foods.

Having quality meat products is key to the positive reviews we receive from our customers about our food."

-Jason Cresswell Owner of Traveler's Bar & Grill

Congratulations to Traveler's Bar & Grill on being voted "Best Burger" and "Best Wings" in Korea by the readers of 10 Magazine

10 S ta f f S p o t l i g h t

Ji Sun Moon has moved around the globe with her parents from a young age, enjoying what this beautiful world has to offer. Through her trials and tribulations, she managed to pick up some German and English while hanging on to her Korean roots. Temporarily settled down in Itaewon, you can spot her strolling down the street, sipping coffee or hunting down hip and hot restaurants.

Emma Kalka (p. 28) grew up in the back roads of Oklahoma, but with a passion for writing and rock music. Especially live rock music. On any given weekend during the summer (when she’s not slaving away as a copy editor), you can find her roaming around various rock festivals or hanging in Hongdae at live rock joints.

Anna Orzel (p. 42) grew up listening to ABBA records and italo disco mix tapes on the south side of Chicago. She has been listening to East Asian pop and rock ever since discovering X Japan’s Jealousy in the ancient archives of a music store over thirteen years ago. She has a Master’s in Library and Information Science and writes at appears.wordpress.com.

CEO Executive Editor Managing Editor Assistant Editor

Sang-tae Kim sangtaekim@10mag.com Jai-yoon Kim jaiyoonkim@10mag.com Stephen Revere sr@10mag.com David Carruth dc@10mag.com

General Manager

Kyoung-hee Lim kl@10mag.com

Art Director

Hugh Lee hl@10mag.com Dylan Goldby dg@10mag.com

Photographer Marketing Inquiries Calendar Events Contribute Comments Subscriptions

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Contributors Michael Berry, Adam Boothe, George Marshall Brown, Todd Bruns, Judith Ann Clancy, Andy Clay, Patrick Conway, Matthew Crawford, Alison Eastwood, Josh Hamlet, Scott Hemsey, Ciaran Hickey, Angela Jacobus, Emma Kalka, Angela Lee, Grace Lee, Seul-ki Lee, Sun-kyung Lee, Stafford Lumsden, Russ Martin, Paul Matthews, Joe McPherson, John Mensing, Ji-sun Moon, Robert Neff, Anna Orzel, Eric Reichbaum, Jacob Roy, Jason Teale, James Tucker, David Volodzko, Patrick Volz, Bryce Weibley, Soyeon Kimberly Yoon

Jacob Roy (p. 26) is from Cornwall, Ontario. He is a professional expatriate, having lived in 5 countries and traveled to over 30. He is a ridiculously goodlooking man, erudite beyond comparison, and a terrible gayageum player. He promises to bring peace to the Korean peninsula by throwing frisbees at citizens on both sides of the DMZ.

Rocking out to some quality NuMetal bounce anthems, photographer Dylan Goldby and amazing models Crystal Kim and Kyle Caldwell put together this month’s festival cover.

Jason Teale (p. 24) is a camera-wielding, coffee-drinking, motorcycle-riding English teacher who is rumored to be from Canada. He has been in and out of Korea since 2003 and has resided in Ulsan for the entire time. He has been a photographer for a number of years now and his work can be found at jasonteale.com.

The views expressed in these articles do not necessarily represent the views of 10 Magazine.

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10 Magazine July Vol. 3 No. 10

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• Share your knowledge with our readers • See your work on the printed page • Receive vouchers, tickets, and other perks

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8 | 10 Magazine July 2011

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Blog of the Month

Ask a Korean askakorean.blogspot.com

So there’s something about Korea that’s driving you batty, and you want answers. Fortunately for you, there’s a blogger who cares.

Ever since 2006, the anonymous writer of Ask A Korean has been fielding questions about Korea, Koreans, and Koreanness and responding to them at length—and in the third person, as “The Korean.” The blog has received a great deal of exposure recently, with both the New York Times and CNN profiling his blog last year, and his frequent posts attract dozens, and sometimes hundreds, of comments.

One probable factor in increasing The Korean’s readership is the controversial topics he addresses. Perhaps most infamous was his post on the eating of dog—provocatively titled “Dog: It’s What’s For Dinner” (August 30th, 2009). His candid support of canine consumption stirred up the comment section and even elicited an angry response and rebuttal from KARA (Korea Animal Rights Advocates). Some readers find it difficult to detect when his deadpan tone conceals sarcasm, and his bold defense of the often-mocked Korean belief in fan death (January 7th, 2009) was accused of being tonguein-cheek.

But beyond sensational topics such as these, The Korean also writes with great sensitivity and wit on matters both serious (language acquisition, Confucianism, Japan and Korea) and silly (whether Asians look the same, what the deal is with Starcraft, and why there are so many Kims).

It’s overwhelmingly likely that your question has already been dealt with, but in the event that it hasn’t, you can reach The Korean at askakorean@gmail.com. Just bear in mind that it can take a while before you see the post—sometimes as long as a year.

Korea by the Numbers

51.6 37 2.7 38.4

The percentage of Korean citizens who consider Korean society to be corrupt.

The percentage of foreigners who consider Korean society to be corrupt The percentage of respondents who have directly experienced corruption (defined as providing “gratuities, entertainment, or gifts”).

The percentage of respondents who believe that setting stricter penalties for corruption is the best way to eliminate corruption. This was followed by improving administrative regulations (17.1%), monitoring public officials more closely (13.2%), and taking preventative action against corruption by public servants (9.9%).

10 | 10 Magazine July 2011

You can’t get this info anywhere else.

THE READER'S 10

What Is Your Favorite Expat Band in Korea?

O

ne of the fascinating ironies about Korea is that the polished, prefabricated K-pop heard on the airwaves coexists with a thriving DIY/indie music scene in the clubs of Hongdae. And scattered among the Korean bands trying to make a living on the road are dozens of expat bands, some covering the songs they love, others playing their own tunes.

Though the majority of these bands are transient and won’t stay on the concert circuit as long as their Korean peers, they’re still talented, serious musicians with a devoted following. We put that devotion to the test with this month’s Reader’s 10. The supporters of nearly thirty expat bands visited the 10 Magazine website to cast their vote. While we’re not making any claims about which bands are actually the best musicians, it’s definitely clear who has the most dedicated fans.

10 Mirrorhouse 9 One Drop East 8 Seoul City Suicides 7 Poko Lambro 6 The Odds Against 5 Magna Fall 4 Angry Bear 3 Fandeath 2 Slaughterhouse Jive

1. Levine We’ve heard your thoughts about the expat side of the music scene, but what about the Korean artists waiting to take the stage as soon as that expat band finishes its act? What about the teenage girls being groomed to become the next K-pop phenomenon? Mainstream or underground, independent or corporate, TV-friendly or deliberately obscure, whoever they are, we want to know:

What Is Your Favorite Korean Band, Group or Singer?

The open thread is up on our website right now, so visit 10mag.com/readers10 by July 7th to nominate your favorites and then vote in the final poll between July 8th and July 17th. Be sure to pick up next month’s issue to read about the winners of this battle of the bands.

10 Magazine July 2011 | 11

10 Qu estions

North of the Border I n t e r v i e w by Dav i d C a r r u t h , s h ot s by S c o t t H e ms e y

Michael Spavor Korea Program Director with the Pyongyang Project

I

n the winding streets of Ahyeon-dong in western Seoul, Michael Spavor is relaxing in the courtyard of the hanok that he renovated by hand. The house will soon be bulldozed as the neighborhood is redeveloped, and Michael himself will be starting work with the Pyongyang Project, a North Korea-focused study program. Michael has done everything from teaching tourists how to make kimchi to studying at a Korean university during his time here, but this job may be the most challenging yet. As the afternoon sun shines into the courtyard, Michael discusses his passion for North Korea.

12 10 Magazine July 2011

1. What first brought you to Korea?

Back in 1997, I was kind of bored with university, and I really wanted to travel. A friend of mine had moved here and he was doing voice recording and teaching, and he said, come on over. It was mid-semester and I had a thousand dollars on my credit card I needed to pay off, but I said “What the hell, I’ll come.” I said I would be there for the next three months, but it was six years before I went home.

2. What sort of work have you done since being in Korea?

Right off the bat, I was a co-host for a radio show. I was doing voice recording and odd jobs and extra work in movies and dramas. I was even in a music video with the K-pop group SES. Eventually, I worked as the marketing manager for North and South America and Europe at the Korea Tourism Organization and the Seoul Tourism Organization for two years.

3. How did you first get interested in North Korea?

I had always been interested in North Korea. In 2001 I went on vacation to North Korea with Koryo Tours. One night, I was in the Yanggakdo Hotel in Pyongyang and I looked across the city and it was dark. There were very few lights on anywhere.

And it just hit me. I thought, I want to live here. I don’t know how or what I can do but I want to be here. I want to experience what these people experience. I want to be part of this.

4. How did you turn that feeling into a reality?

After that first trip, I was reading tons about North Korea– anything I could find. So in my research I came across this NGO called Global Aid Network (GAiN) which needed graphic artists and English teachers for North Korea. I had a background in graphic arts and English teaching experience, and I fit the position perfectly. So in 2005, I found myself managing an NGO, and it was probably the best time of my life. But at the end of 6 months most of the NGOS, including GAiN, were kicked out of North Korea.

5. Could you share one of your favorite memories from your time there?

I was teaching art students English and basic computer skills.

One night, I came back to the office to pick something up and noticed a light on in the classroom. It was the top student and the lowest student in the class. I looked on the board and the stronger student was going over the stuff that I had taught in class, explaining it in Korean. And then I got it. They weren’t so concerned about their individual grades—what was more important to them was that the whole group did well. It was really shocking, since that’s a mentality that I didn’t grow up with.

6. And now, six years later, you’re planning on returning to North Korea. Who are you working with this time?

It’s a non-profit NGO called the Pyongyang Project under the EWC (East West Coalition). I’m officially working for them as of this May.

And it just hit me: I don’t know how or what I can do but I want to live here.

I want to experience what these people experience.

7. What is your role with the project?

I’m the Korea program director. The stuff I’m doing right now is preparation for our study trips to North Korea. I’m dealing with curriculum design and working with the North Korean teachers who will be teaching Joseonmal (조선말, the North Korean dialect) in the Korean language program. And I guess I’m a chaperone as well. I’m in charge of handling any issues that the students might have: booking rooms, arranging plane tickets, negotiating with the North Koreans, and brainstorming new projects and new ideas.

8. What exactly happens on these trips?

Well, the two-month language course is pretty self-explanatory. Another interesting course is the North-South Dialogue project. This will involve eight top students from Beijing University and eight top students from around the world, mostly Europe. We take them to Beijing for classes on East Asian security and cooperation and then to the North where they’ll participate in joint labor activities with North Korean students, visit schools, and talk to professors. Then they’ll come to the South for programs at a couple of different universities. They’ll also get to meet important scholars like Andrei Lankov and Andrew Salmon. Finally, all the students have to come up with a consensus paper which explains how to solve all of the problems they’ve studied.

9. Do a lot of people oppose the Pyongyang project?

Not once we sit down and talk with them. Of course, there are some people who are opposed to any interaction with North Korea. But the thing that’s different about our organization is that we’re entirely transparent. We say exactly how much of the money goes to the North Korean government, and it’s very little.

What the North Koreans are getting is the chance to send their professors abroad. 20% of each student’s tuition goes to this scholarship, which we use to take North Korean professors overseas. That money goes not to North Korea, but to the schools they study at and pays for their airfare, food, and accommodations.

10. What’s behind your passion for North Korea?

Just the kindness of the people there. The people I worked with became my best friends: we’d go places together and talk about life, and that’s why I always wanted to go back. People might think I want to go to North Korea because it’s adventurous and mysterious, but the truth is I fell in love with the North Korean people.

10 Magazine July 2011 | 13

America’s Pastime in the Korean Gold Mines When American gold miners weren’t hoping to strike it rich, they were hoping not to strike out at the annual Fourth of July baseball game.

O

ne of the largest enterprises in Korea in the early 20th century was the American-owned Oriental Consolidated Mining Company (OCMC). The OCMC, often referred to as the Unsan Gold Mine, was established in the late 1890s and operated several mines in the mountainous region north of Pyongyang. The mines operated 24 hours a day, every day but one—July 4th, the American Independence Day. Every year, the OCMC celebrated America’s independence with a festival of dinners, picnics, firework displays and sporting events for both the Western and Korean miners. The events for the Koreans included a 100-yard dash for boys, 100-yard dash for men, bicycle race, greased pig chase, greased pole climb, sack race, donkey race, egg race, wheelbarrow race, macaroni-eating contest, pillow fights, wrestling bouts, boxing for boys, and the

From top left: Baseball champions in 1916, July 4 party circa 1916 - 1920, Baseball game at the gold mine circa 1913

14 10 Magazine July 2011

somewhat ominous and ambiguous “string-eating contest.” The events for the Western miners were the running high jump; standing broad jump; running broad jump; the hop, skip, and jump; the shot put; the 100-yard dash; and a tennis tournament.

But by far the most popular Fourth of July game was baseball— America’s sport. Baseball was pretty much a novelty in Korea in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The first baseball game in Korea was held in Seoul in late April 1896 between the American legation’s marine guard and the city’s American expats. The marines won by a single run. This early game generated attention not only amongst the foreign community but the Korean community as well, and around 1905 Koreans began to play the game at the Seoul YMCA. In the early 1910s, the OCMC started a regular championship as part of their Fourth of July activities. The games were spirited, with a great deal of good-natured teasing between the two mining teams. These were the Outside Team and Inside Team, so named because of their locations within the mining community.

Words BY Robert Neff Photos from the Robert Neff collection with special appreciation to the families who provided them

A hand-drawn pamphlet for the Fourth of July of 1916 is filled with playful banter between the two teams in which they mock each other’s perceived whining and weaknesses. Although it isn’t clear, circumstantial evidence (mainly pictures) indicates that the Inside Team finally won the championship in 1916—just as they had predicted they would.

Things might have been a lot different if Fred Johnson, a young man from Indiana working at the French Mines at Taeyudong, had been invited to play. A former clerk at a hotel in Columbia City, Johnson had once played as “the right fielder and catcher on the famous professional Columbia City Reds baseball team and the Columbia City-Fort Wayne Shamrocks [team].”

The following poem, taken from the pamphlet prepared for the game, reveals the playful rivalry between the two teams.

Echoes from the Inside The “Outside” has been crowing, O’er the winning of the cup, O’er the great baseball they’re playing, And the way they’ve showed us up, But let me tell your people, It wasn’t playing, wasn’t luck, The way they’ve won the last two years, To Maibong took the cup, The “Outside” looked things over, Figured – as things stood they’d lose, So they began to “holler,” More men, they wished to choose, So the “Inside,” noble-hearted, Says “of course, take three or four, We don’t dare take advantage, You won’t play and will get sore,” So give them all the men they want, It won’t do us much harm, For this is now the third time, They say, “THE THIRD TIME IS THE CHARM”

10 Magazine July 2011 | 15

A TASTE OF KOREA

Galbi 갈비

Ribbing You the Right Way W o rds by C i a r a n H i c k e y, e x e c u t i v e c h e f o f t h e w s e o u l wa l k e r h i l l

Pork and chicken are popular barbecue options as well, but in Korea, beef ribs are the king of the grill.

I

think it’s safe to say that most non-Koreans have heard of Korean barbeque. Galbi, as it’s known on its home turf, is truly one of the most representative of all Korean dishes. The reason it’s so popular both in Korea and abroad has to be because the meat is cooked right at your table. It’s a great way to enjoy high quality beef while taking in a show at the same time.

Though it’s generally used to describe the cut of meat from beef short ribs, the term “galbi” (which literally means “ribs”) also applies to grilled pork. With beef, the meat is traditionally cut thin and rolled back several times over the rib bone that it’s attached to. Known as wang galbi (king ribs), this is the original style of preparing the beef, and because of the preparation involved and the cost of high quality hanwoo (Korean beef), galbi restaurants can be quite expensive.

Having said that, your experience in a galbi restaurant will not only mean eating rib meat, as it can include sirloin and tenderloin, too. The poor cousin of wang galbi is “LA” galbi, a more common variety which is not usually found in better restaurants. This version is cut across the

16 10 Magazine July 2011

rack of ribs and may contain four or more bones joined together with meat. Generally speaking, only American or Australian beef is used for this cut, an easy way also to tell what you’re eating.

This is the preferred home-cooked version as it is quick, easy and tender.

For a lot of people, the key to galbi is in the marinade, not just the quality of the beef. Generally, this is composed of sesame, ginger, soy sauce and occasionally garlic and sugar. Many places have “secret” recipes with ingredients like grated Asian pear. When the marinade caramelizes on the super hot grill, it helps create that amazing BBQ flavor.

Once your beef is cooked, it will be served with perilla leaves and lettuce. You can use these to wrap the beef after first dipping it in my absolute favorite of all Korean sauces, ssamjang. This pungent little condiment is made by mixing pepper paste, doenjang paste, sugar, garlic, onions and sesame oil.

Finally, as no Korean dish can be left lonely, we have banchan adding to the already overcrowded table. If you have spent any amount of time in Korea, a lot of them will be familiar: kimchi, kkakdugi (radish kimchi) and namul (greens). Soup will also be offered, and if there is any space left at this point, rice and soup are served to round off the meal.

It’s not uncommon to leave a galbi jip (rib house) smelling like an overused Weber grill, but there’s no better way to enjoy Korean beef, Korean hospitality and Korean alcohol.

10 tip

A popular chicken dish is known as “dalk galbi,” or literally “chicken ribs.” Obviously, this doesn’t contain any actual chicken ribs.

Netizen’s Picks Minsokchon 민속촌 The folk at this folk village (the meaning of “Minsokchon”) have their own unique way of dining on galbi. Start by dunking the galbi in the meat broth and finish your meal with bulnaengmyeon (불냉면) on a bed of lettuce.

73-2 Honam-dong, Donggu, Gwangju. 062-222-4815 Saengpotan 생포탄 The beef at Saengpotan is painstakingly prepared by hand and then grilled over charcoal to bring out the authentic flavor. It’s served with a topping of eggs to add a special twist.

366-1 Yatap-dong, Bundang-gu, Seongnam, Gyeonggi-do. seangpotan.com 1588-9273 Samwon Garden 삼원가든 The smell of ribs roasting at Samwon Garden (open since 1976) will set your mouth a-watering. A good way to round off the meal here is with a delicious bowl of danpatjuk (단팥죽, sweet red bean porridge).

623-5 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul. samwongarden.com 02-548-3030

Book the experience of a lifetime at millenniumseoulhilton.co.kr

IN THE KITCHEN butty, he put it on the menu especially for him. Unfortunately, no one else knew what it was, and there were few orders.

Ken chose to open his restaurant in Gyeongnidan because of the foreign population. He focuses his cuisine towards expat tastes and has changed the menu thirteen times in the past year to make sure his customers get the food they want. He’s proud of the dishes he serves: the portions are large, the food is tasty and the prices are good (a few thousand won cheaper than most Itaewon joints).

And though he may be more famous for the brunch that appears in the restaurant’s name, he is also proud of the California sushi rolls on his menu, which his customers tell him are the best in Seoul.

He perfected his roll-making skills during the eight years he spent working in the U.S. After training in Korea and spending ten years at the Seoul Hilton, he headed to Orange County where he worked at the Todai Buffet Restaurant and to Hawaii where he had a stint at the Akasaka and Sorabol restaurants as a sushi chef.

It was always hard work, and on the Lunar New Year, he’d sometimes find himself catering to two thousand guests at Sorabol.

Ken hopes one day to expand his restaurant, but for the moment he is content serving his friends and neighbors some of the best brunch dishes—and rolls—in the area.

Chef Ken Choi may well make the best California rolls you’ll ever find at a brunch spot.

T

G Brunch celebrated its first birthday this spring, and owner Ken Choi is very happy to be serving the locals of Gyeongnidan, an area just a short walk from the main drag of Itaewon near Noksapyeong Station. Ken opened up his place last April and has been specializing in his own particular style of food ever since.

The “TG” in T.G Brunch stands for “Thank God,” and Ken and his wife are devoted Catholics who despite customer complai nts choose not to open on Sunday.

Customers have asked Ken to change the name or open for business, but he explains that he has made a promise to God. Ken’s commitment to his faith is admirable, but he is also committed to his customers and has tailored his menu to suit the neighborhood’s needs.

Friendship is very important to Ken, and he tells me that almost all his customers are his friends. They call him up to ask if he’s open, they put in special requests, and they come back again and again to eat in his cozy diner.

When one Brit asked him for a chip

Thank God It’s Brunch W o rds a n d s h ot s by Pau l M at t h e w s

Ken Choi’s California Roll

Ingredients

• • • • • •

1 medium avocado, peeled, pitted, and sliced into 1/4-inch thick pieces 4 sheets of nori (dried seaweed) cut in half crosswise 1 small cucumber, peeled, seeded, and cut into matchstick-size pieces 1/3 cup sesame seeds, toasted • 1/2 batch sushi rice (see below) 4 crabsticks, torn into pieces • Wasabi, for serving Pickled ginger, for serving • Soy sauce, for serving

Di r e c t ion s

1 Cover a bamboo rolling mat with plastic wrap and lay 1 piece of nori, shiny side down, on the plastic-covered mat. Wet your fingers with water and spread about 1/2 cup of the rice evenly onto the nori. Sprinkle the rice with sesame seeds.

2 Turn the nori over so that the rice side is down. Place 1/8 of the cucumber, avocado and crab sticks in the center of the sheet. Grab the edge of the mat closest to you, keeping the fillings in place with your fingers, and roll it into a tight cylinder, using the mat to shape the cylinder.

3 Pull away the mat and set aside. Cover with a damp cloth. Repeat until all of the rice has been used. Cut each roll into 6 pieces. Serve with pickled ginger, wasabi and soy sauce.

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Sushi rice

•

2 cups sushi rice or short grain rice 2 cups water, plus extra for rinsing rice • 2 tablespoons rice vinegar • 2 tablespoons sugar • 1 tablespoon kosher salt •

1 Rinse the rice until the water runs clear. Place rice in pot with 2 cups of water, bring to the boil then lower the heat, cover and cook for 15 minutes. Remove from heat and leave covered for 10 minutes.

2 Combine other ingredients and microwave on high for 30 to 45 seconds. Transfer rice and vinegar mixture to bowl and mix thoroughly (coat each grain). Allow to cool to room temperature.

Ristorante & Lounge Tel 02-553-9000

Cucina Italiana Pizzeria & Bar Tel 02-797-0488~9

Italian Pastry Deli & Wine Bar Tel 02-790-5907

We Don't Claim To Be The Only Italian, Just The Best !

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Ex pat Ex per tise

How to Become a Certifiably Great English Teacher and Increase Your Salary at the Same Time Words by Todd Bruns Special thanks to Alison Eastwood for her research help

How does one go about keeping students engaged in class? What are the best ways to arrange a classroom and use classroom materials? What the hell is a transitive verb anyway? As the legions of ESLers here know, there’s a lot more to teaching English than, you know, speaking it.

T h e N at i o n a l P l a n

While education degrees, MAs and PhDs are clearly the best routes toward plum gigs at international schools and universities in both Korea and abroad, these avenues are major commitments in time and money. A lot of expat English teachers are not in the ESL (English as a Second Language) game for the long haul. For this large contingent, chasing an advanced degree in this field is no more practical than mastering underwater welding before taking a summer job as a life guard.

Fortunately, for those who want to widen their pool of potential jobs, or who wish to learn more about teaching methods, or to simply get a bump in pay, there are other options available.

Amongst the sea of options, the most frequently available are the online TEFL or TESOL, the in-class TEFL or TESOL, and the in-class CELTA. Classroom TEFL, TESOL, and CELTA courses are available in Seoul as well as other locations around the world.

Alphabet Soup

Like any field, ESL loves its acronyms. What exactly are TEFL, TESOL, and CELTA? TEFL stands for “teaching English as a foreign language,” while TESOL refers to “teaching English to speakers of other languages.” These terms are largely interchangeable. The primary difference is that TEFL is the more common term in the UK, and TESOL is used more in the United States. Korean public schools treat both certificates the same way. In fact, coursework for both certifications is often identical. CELTA refers to “certificate in English language teaching to adults.” It is a 140-hour certification awarded by Cambridge University, and is essentially a brand name for a specific type of TEFL diploma.

O n l i n e TEFL o r TE S OL

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Illustration by James Tucker

This is the least expensive, least time-consuming way to receive a certificate. A 100-hour online certificate starts at $200 through a number of sources. For those who don’t like taking tests and want more personal attention, 120-hour courses with online tutors run around $300. Value-wise, online is the most attractive choice for hagwon and public school teachers that are not looking to work outside of Korea. So far as EPIK, GEPIK, and SMOE are concerned, online certificates are equivalent to pricier classroom study pay-scale wise. Online courses do help with English teaching methodology, and they also pay for themselves within two or three months. These certificates are also useful for hagwon teachers, as hagwon owners will often pay more for teachers who hold them. That, and a teacher with some classroom management knowledge will be less likely to be fired by a fickle hagwon owner. Many options are available. I used ITTT (International TESOL Teaching Training) at tesolonline.com.

I n - c l a ss TEFL o r TE S OL

This is another common ESL certificate. This option, like all classroom options, is considerably costlier than its online cousin. This course increases its graduates’ options for Eng-lish teaching jobs outside of Korea. Within Korea, this course is as useful in moving up the public school pay scale as the online version. A variety of courses are available throughout Seoul and around the world. An eight week night or weekend class is the standard length in Seoul. One representative program is TEFL International (teflinternational.org.uk/seoul). As of June 2011, they cost W2.48 million ($2,180). Four-week TEFL or TESOL courses are also available throughout the world at varying costs.

TEFL Life charges $1,490 in Cebu, Philippines (tefl-life.com/

What exactly are TEFL, TESOL, and CELTA? TEFL stands for “teaching English as a foreign language,” while TESOL refers to “teaching English to speakers of other languages.” These terms are largely interchangeable. cebu-philippines) and $1,590 in Ban Phe, Thailand (tefllife.com/ banphe-thailand). On the pricier end, they offer courses for $2,290 in New York (tefllife.com/newyork-usa). These prices cover instruction only: room, board, and transportation are not included.

C ELTA

CELTA can be completed over four weeks or three months in 54 countries worldwide, including South Korea. The course not only teaches basic classroom skills, but gives practical experience in real-life teaching situations. While CELTA is aimed at teaching small groups of adults, the skills are transferable. As well as improved teaching ability, CELTA certification is widely recognized around the world. The International Graduate School of English offers courses, as does the British Council. IGSE (edulife.igse.ac.kr) is in Gangdong-gu, Seoul and courses cost W2.35 million ($2,180) for a 4-week full-time program or a 14-week part-time morning course. The British Council (britishcouncil.org/korea-teacher-development-courses-celta. htm) also runs 4-week full-time courses in Gwanghwamun, Seoul for W2.57 million ($2,390).

Eligibilit y

All of these programs are open for everyone, regardless of teaching experience. Non-native speakers are welcome as well, so long as they are proficient enough to teach English to a range of levels. An extensive knowledge of grammar is not a prerequisite, but knowing the basics is certainly an advantage as you will be expected to teach it during the course.

Worth it?

I can definitely see that my teaching has changed for the better, especially where classroom management is concerned. As I opted for the online route, my certificate has already paid for itself via a pay raise from my hagwon. I’m more marketable in Korea.

Should I later decide to take a classroom course for the sake of pursuing an ESL job in another country, my online studies will make the curriculum easier. And best of all, I know what a transitive verb is.

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Fashion & St yle

The natural solution for your skin

Face to Face with Korean Cosmetics W o rds by J i - s u n M o o n

If you’re still visiting the department store for heavily marked-up make up, maybe it’s time to try out what Korean brands have to offer.

F

ace the facts: it’s just not that easy to find quality cosmetics for a reasonable price. As you watch the bottles you brought from back home slowly running out, you start worrying about where to find the same product or at least something similar to it. We ladies have the reputation of being loyal to the product we put on our faces, right?

If you’re not ready to take a risk and try out something new, you might as well stop reading right now and head to the nearest Shinsegae. Of course, the prices are marked way higher than what you would have paid for the same product back home. But what choice do you have?

If you’re brave enough, there are always the local options. I bet you’ll be impressed by both the quality and price of Korean cosmetic brands. Read on to find out about three major brands that can serve as respectable substitutes for your go-to brands as well as a beauty retail outlet that can keep you stocked with your favorites.

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Since its first store opened in Myeongdong in 2003, The Face Shop has grown into one of Korea’s biggest cosmetic brands. There are now more than 1200 shops worldwide, with the majority located in Asia. As the brand’s motto “Natural Story” suggests, all products use natural ingredients and minimize artificial and chemical substances.

The Face Shop largely owes its success to LG Household & Health Care, which handles the company’s research and development. The brand’s focus is on rehabilitating damaged skin, and their best-selling line Smim Skin density 101.0 is designed to improve skin density and elasticity using fermented top-grade sake as the main ingredient. Another is Sseal Escargot, a cream that revitalizes skin using the mucin compound found in snail mucus. Despite its gross origins, mucin is great for healing blemishes and scars and soothing irritated skin.

Branches of The Face Shop are located in major shopping districts all around the country.

Prices vary, but the majority of products are between W10,000 – W30,000. For details, please see the English website. international.thefaceshop.com

A solid foundation for beaut y Established in 2000 as an online store, Missha has since become one of Korea’s leading beauty brands, mainly through word of mouth. Back then, the concept of a beauty store was still foreign to the Korean market. Missha had to prove that it was feasible to sell high-quality cosmetics at a reasonable price.

Missha’s strength is in its foundations and powders such as M Perfect Cover Blemish Balm Cream, which protects your complexion and covers up acne scars and irritated skin. The long-lasting Glam Silky Body Balm has been one of the brand’s three most popular products this summer. The glitter will not only make you look glamorous, but the balm also works as a sun block. Since Missha’s target market is not limited to Asian countries, it’s easier for Westerners to find color options that match their skin types.

Shops are located in all major shopping areas.

W10,000 – W50,000. You can also shop online (in Korean) at shop.beautynet.co.kr/missha.

A new option for cleansing Banila Co. made its debut in 2005, later than the two brands mentioned above. Though a relative newcomer to the Korean beauty scene, it has emerged as one of the most stylish and desired cosmetic brands in Korea. If you’re looking for colored make-up such as eye shadow and you prefer variety to quality, Banila Co. is an excellent alternative. Plus, its prices are competitive compared to MAC or Make Up Forever.

The flagship product line at Banila Co. includes primer, blemish balm as well as cleansing items. The most popular choice is Prime Primer, a make-up base used before powdering is available in classic, classic matte, hydrating, and hydrating shimmer. B.B Cream comes in a close second, giving a silky smooth and natural look to your skin. Coming back home from a late night out and don’t feel like going through all the tiring cleansing steps? Just grab Clean it Zero to wipe away even the thickest make-up.

Stores can be found in major commercial districts nationwide.

W18,000 – W30,000. For details, check out banilaco.com.

One stop for cosmetic classics Not quite ready to adopt a new makeup manufacturer? If so, health and beauty product retailer Olive Young might be the perfect choice. Over the past decade, Olive Young has grown from one store to over 100.

They’re aiming for 200 stores this year, and their multinational cosmetic brands, accessible locations, and modern store designs may help them reach that target.

Olive Young is basically a one-stop shop where you can conveniently buy a variety of products from a wide range of brands. Their list of products may not be perfect, but it may just be enough to quench that cosmetic craving.

Plus, the list is rapidly getting longer. CJ Group is the sole shareholder, which allows Olive Young to distribute products by major brands such as L’Oreal, P&G, Shiseido, Avène, and Vichy. Think of it as a convenience store for the trendy and beautiful. From household items to perfume, this store is dedicated to pleasing women of all ages with the best products at the best price. oliveyoung.co.kr 10 Magazine July 2011 | 23

Spor t s & Fit n ess N e w k a r ate kid on th e block

Kuk Sool Won is practiced all over the world— from Arkansas to Argentina—and is even taught as an extracurricular subject at the United States Military Academy at West Point. Every four years the world championships are held in Korea, drawing thousands of competitors from around the globe.

So why is it that when you mention Kuk Sool Won, foreigners look at you blankly and Koreans think you are talking about a bowl of noodles (guksu in Korean)?

The main reason that many are still unfamiliar with this martial art form is that the actual organized version of Kuk Sool Won is relatively new. It was formally established in Korea in 1961 and then as an international organization (known in English as the World Kuk Sool Association or WKSA) in 1975. Kuk Sool Won still has some catching up to do before it gains the popularity and exposure of more established martial art forms.

Kuk Sool Won incorporates striking, kicking, joint locks, weapons, animal techniques, throws, grappling, falls, acrobatics, meditation and even healing methods.

Ancie nt h i story a nd conte mpor a ry tech niqu es

International Martial Art of Mystery

Kuk Sool Won 국 술원

W o rds a n d s h ot s by J a s o n T e a l e

Most of you have heard of Korea’s national sport Taekwondo, but how many are aware of Kuk Sool Won?

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Not just martial arts enthusiasts but also history buffs can enjoy the study of Kuk Sool Won. Despite the recent establishment of the organization, the form has its roots in three important martial arts in Korean history. First is Sadomusul (사도무술), or tribal martial arts. This is an ancient form that also served as the basis of Taekkyeon (택견) and Ssireum (씨름). Next is Bulkyomusul (불교무술), or Buddhist martial arts. The final source is Gungjungmusul (궁중무술), which were the martial arts of the Korean royal court.

Kuk Sool Won is more a system of martial arts techniques than an individual art. But that said, it’s a well-balanced system that incorporates many, if not all, traditional Korean fighting techniques.

For those seeking variety in their training, Kuk Sool Won should not be overlooked. It incorporates striking, kicking, joint locks, weapons (and there are more than 24 traditional Korean weapons in the Kuk Sool Won curriculum), animal techniques, throws, grappling, falls, acrobatics, meditation and even healing methods. As you can see from this partial list, you’re not likely to get bored repeating the same old techniques.

Good r e ason s to tr a in in Ku k Sool Won

One of the best things about Kuk Sool Won for an expat is that it’s a worldwide association. This doesn’t merely mean that the sport is practiced outside Korea but that the association directly accredits and supports schools worldwide. As a result, there are extensive materials available in

English to help you train in Korea. Also, because of its international scope, your belt and rank are recognized in any dojang in the world. And because the system of teaching is completely standardized, even if you leave Korea you can continue training wherever you go.

Though Kuk Sool Won practitioners receive excellent instruction in everything from kicking to sword-fighting, it’s the self-defense training that really stands out. Known as hosinsul (호신술), these practical techniques cover a wide range of attacks from basic wrist or clothing grabs to knife attacks.

If you’re looking for a unique but effective martial art that will also serve as a great conversation starter, Kuk Sool Won may be just what you’re looking for. kuksoolwon.com 10 Magazine July 2011 | 25

m usic

Get Your Gayageum On

When Six Strings Just Aren’t Enough W o rds by J ac o b R oy, s h ot s by C h o i J i h o o n

H

ave you ever taken the KTX? If so, you may have noticed that when the train slows down before a station a certain tune comes on, gently reminding you that the train will be stopping soon. The music is sparse, minimal and distinctly oriental. The irregular notes evoke images of water slowly dripping from a hanok’s tiled roof. Each note, surrounded by silence, vibrates beautifully and pleases not only the ear but the mind as well. It is a far cry from the cacophonous boy/girl band pop music presently dominating the Korean airwaves.

After hearing this music each time I took the KTX, I finally asked my Korean friend about it. She replied that the sound was made by a gayageum (가야금). A gayageum? I had never heard of it! She informed me that it was a traditional Korean musical instrument. My curiosity was piqued.

I started by researching the history of the instrument. The gayageum is aptly named after the ancient kingdom of Gaya, though its historical origins are widely believed to be Chinese. The gayageum shares a basic shape, form and sound with other instruments collectively grouped in the Asian zither family. In addition to the Korean gayageum, this family includes the original zheng from China, the Mongolian yatag, the Vietnamese đàn tranh, and the Japanese koto.

Historical records suggest that King Gasil of the 6th century Gaya confederacy ordered a 12-string instrument to be built after hearing of the Chinese zheng. He then commanded (as kings tend to do) a musician named Wooreuk to compose twelve new pieces for the newly built instrument. Soon after, Gaya fell on hard times, and Wooreuk, fea r i ng for h is music (and life!), requested permission to take refuge in the neighboring Silla Kingdom.

It is a testament to King Jinheung of Silla that Wooreuk, his instrument and his music were not only accepted but Shot by Bryce Weibley highly prized within the royal court.

King Jinheung even ordered three talented young government officials to study with Wooreuk in order to learn the gayageum’s music.

Here the story takes a strange twist.

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Jacob Roy and Jackie Homann pluck beautiful music from the strings of the gayageum at the National Center for Performing Arts.

Behaving in a way that would now be deemed blasphemous by Confucian standards, the three students actually criticized their master’s music, calling it too chaotic. Kyego, Bupji, and Manduk amended the original twelve pieces to include five new compositions. Even more surprisingly, Wooreuk cried tears of delight when he heard the new music, reportedly saying, “There is joy (in this music) but it is not exaggerated, and there is sadness, yet it is not too painful. The music you play here is certainly just as it should be.” The Gaya confederacy fell in the 6th century, and Silla later in the 10th, but the music created in their kingdoms is alive and well in present-day Korea.

After discovering the gayageum’s existence, I wanted to learn more about the instrument. After a little research, I found a shop that specializes in helping foreigners understand Korean traditional culture. I went there soon after and told them how much I enjoyed the short snippet of gayageum music on the KTX. The informed staff there suggested I listen to a CD by Korean musical legend Hwang Byung-ki. They played a song for me right there in the store and I was immediately hooked. I bought the CD and listened to it extensively over the next few months. I even went to several of his concerts, including the Hwang Byung-ki tribute concert at the Seoul Arts Center.

But just listening to gayageum music was not enough. So enthralled was I that I decided to learn the instrument, despite my inability in the past to even play the recorder. I am now enrolled in a gayageum course open to foreigners at the National Center for Performing Arts (국립국악원) near the Seoul Arts Center in Seocho-gu. We meet every Saturday for 2 hours in a group of 15. The course is taught in English and Korean and for the very reasonable fee of W30,000, each student gets to learn on his or

her own gayageum. The courses are fast-paced, challenging and require more than a minimum of musical talent and devotion. The courses last 3 months, and those students that make it through can don hanbok and play in a final performance in one of the lovely halls attached to the complex. The next term starts in mid-September, but classes fill up quickly. If you want to take advantage of this wonderful chance to participate in Korean culture, don’t wait to sign up.

2364 Nambu Sunhwan-ro, Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul. gugak.go.kr 02-580-3300

A String of Gayageum Schools You don’t have to live in downtown Gangnam to learn how to play the gayageum. See the list below for more options, most of which include instruction in English.

Saemteo Gukak (샘터국악원)

Gyeonggi Province

English and Korean. 104 Hyogyeong Building, 637-34 Haensin-dong, Goyang, Deokyang-gu, Gyeonggi Province. skukak.com 031-972-5153

SBMW Gukak Nanta (SBMW 국악난타)

Gyeonggi Province

English and Korean. 207 Yuchang Building, 537-6 Gojang-dong, Danwon-gu, Ansan, Gyeonggi Province. cafe.daum.net/ansansorinarai 070-8791-3900

Kim Seungho Gukak Yeonguso (김승호 국악연구소)

Jeolla Province

English and Korean. 3F 503-30 Gakhwa-dong, Buk-gu, Gwangju.

010-6856-1427, 062-228-1427

From Korea Gukak School Seoul

Korean only. Near Hyochang Park Stn. (line 6, ex. 1). cafe.daum.net/gugaknara 02-713-0249 10 Magazine July 2011 | 27

Words by Emma Kalka Imagine: thousands of people standing outside on a summer night, singing in unison as music reverberates through the rural setting. Bright lights flash and lasers pierce the overcast sky. Even if there was a little drizzle earlier in the evening, no one seems to care because all eyes, and ears, are directed towards a stage where one of the most popular bands in the world is playing, and encouraging everyone to sing along.

And the great thing is, it’s only the first of three nights of performances.

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Summer is the season of rock music in Korea. With festivals seemingly taking place left and right starting in May, music lovers could easily have more than their fill of rock.

But the two biggest festivals in Korea are just one week apart this year, both bringing in popular bands from home and abroad. And there is nothing quite like experiencing multiple top bands in one place. The Pentaport and Jisan Valley Rock Festivals are both relatively new, but they have quickly become the top destinations for rock lovers in Korea. Both have rural settings that allow visitors, both Korean and foreign, to get away from the city and just enjoy the music.

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Pentaport Rock Festival August 5th – 7th The Pentaport Rock Festival kicked off in 2006 with headliners such as Franz Ferdinand, The Strokes, Placebo and even the Black Eyed Peas. And, before Jisan began, it was the festival to be at, with groups such as Dir En Grey, the Deftones and Muse all gracing its stages. From 2006 to 2009, the festival was held at Songdo, but last year’s fest moved to the new Incheon DreamPark, just southwest of the Incheon metro area. The festival mostly features rock artists, but does bring in some house/ electronic and hip hop artists as well. The name “Pentaport” is derived from the fact that the event has five themes: music, passion, eco-friendly, do it yourself and friendship.

Just like Jisan Valley, Pentaport also features a three stage layout with the main stage, a smaller stage and a DJ area. The stages are within walking distance, but yet far enough apart that there is no sound overlap.

Getting There Starting in Seoul, take the airport railroad (AREK) from either Seoul Station or Hongik Station and get off at Geomam Station.

You can also transfer from line 5 at Gimpo Airport Station to the AREX. There will be shuttles buses running from Geomam Station to the festival grounds every 20 to 30 minutes. You can also take bus #1100, 2100 or 9801 to Baekseok-dong Taepyeong APT Station. From there, transfer to bus #1, 7, 13, 17 or 77 to Geomam Station and take the shuttle from there.

If you’re in Incheon, you can take bus #40, 42-1, 111, 111-2, 302, 306, 308 or 710 to The National Institute of Biological Resources, which is about one kilometer from the site. Or you can take bus #28 or 591 to Geomam Station and take the shuttle from there. pentaportrock.com

Line-Up

This year’s headliner at Pentaport will be American band Korn. Other foreign groups on the lineup are Plain White T’s, Neon Trees, The Ting Tings, Mama’s Gun, !!! (“Chk Chk Chk”) and Joe Brooks. Korean fans will not be disappointed by local acts such as No Brain, Boohwal, GD & TOP, Taeyang, Idiotape, Vidulgi Ooyoo, and Galaxy Express.

Camping

There is a camping area located near the main stage at Incheon Dreampark. Camping tickets are available for two and three-day ticket holders and run about W10,000 per person.

There are also tents available to rent if you don’t bring your own.

Watch the Pentaport website for more updates as the festival date gets closer.

1 Mama’s Gun 2 Korn 3 Neon Trees 4 !!! (CHK CHK CHK) 5 GD & TOP

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Food and Drink

Pentaport has a variety of food and drink vendors located throughout the festival grounds which operate on a coin system. Visitors exchange cash or credit for coins and use them throughout the festival at all the food and drink stalls. The coins are refundable if you do not spend them all.

Tickets

Pentaport has one-, two-, and threeday passes available at the door for W88,000, W132,000 and W165,000.

T he y c a n a l s o b e b ou g ht o n l i ne through Interpark for a 10 percent discount. If you pre-order online before July 13th, the tickets will be shipped out on July 14th enabling you to avoid long lines. If you order tickets online after the 14th, you can choose whether you would like to pick them up at the venue or have them shipped.

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Jisan Valley Rock Festival July 29th – 31st Set at the Jisan Ski Resort southeast of Seoul, the Jisan Valley Rock Festival began in 2009 with a line-up full of heavy hitters: Fall Out Boy, Weezer, Jet, Pattie Smith and Oasis. There was also a bit of controversy surrounding the origins of the festival, since the organizers had previously been involved with the Pentaport Rock Festival and that first year, both events took place on 1

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the same weekend. But since then, the festival has made a name for itself, bringing artists such as Muse, Pet Shop Boys, Corrine Bailey Rae and Massive Attack for its second year, along with a strong group of local indie bands such as Galaxy Express and heavy metal band Crash.

Line-Up

The festival offers three stages: the main stage, the smaller green stage and the electronic stage.

Among the foreign artists for this year are Arctic Monkeys, Incubus, The Chemical Brothers, Suede, The Music and Amadou & Mariam, Asian Kung Fu Generation, Atari Teenage Riot, 9mm Parabellum Bullet and Feeder. Local artists include Dear Cloud, Crash, Huckleberry Finn, Guckkasten, Jaurim, Yellow Monster, Zitten, Apollo 18, Ukulele Picnic, Kingston Rudieska, PIA and Jang Ki-ha and the Faces.

Camping and Accommodations

Since the festival is located a fair distance from Seoul and other major cities, there is a campsite available.

Tickets are about W15,000 per person. The organizers offer tent rentals for 3 or more people, though they ask that campers try to stick to the smaller tents, since space is limited. Also, camping tickets are only available for three-day ticket holders. Tent rentals will be available through the Jisan website. Since the camping areas are all grass, no cooking or grills are allowed, and plastic or glass bottles and cans are prohibited. Shower buildings are placed around the campsites and phone charging centers are located throughout the festival grounds.

For those not into camping, there is a list of cabins, hotels and motels located near the resort on the Jisan website, but book now because they fill up fast.

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Food and Drinks

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Many local restaurants and bars sponsor tents both in the food zone near the main stage and throughout the festival grounds.

There are also snack shops and a cafeteria. The festival operates on a “no cash” policy, but food and drink coupons are available for purchase late into the night at the front gate. Festival goers can buy coupons with both cash and credit or check cards. The coupons are refundable.

Tickets

One- and three-day passes are available online or at the door for W110,000 and W220,000. Visit the Jisan website for information in English on how to book tickets in advance. There is currently a 10 percent discount for those that book online (1-day: W99,000 won, 3-day: W198,000).

Getting There

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1 Seude 2 Apollo 18 3 Feeder 4 Chemical Brothers 5 Amadou & Mariam 6 Incubus 7 Crowd at Jisan 8 Jaurim

10 Magazine July 2011

To get to Jisan, take a bus to either the Yongin Bus Terminal or Icheon Bus Terminal. From Yongin, you can catch local bus #103 to the resort and from Icheon, you can catch local bus #12. The festival may offer charter buses from Seoul as they have in the past, so Seoul residents should watch the website for updates on how to reserve a ticket. valleyrockfestival.com

Rocking Out All Summer Long For those who can’t make it to Pentaport or Jisan this summer, or for those festival junkies out there, rest assured. There are plenty of other smaller festivals taking place around Korea.

Up in Seoul, the Guro Indie Rock Festival is taking place on July 2nd and 3rd at the Guro Valley Arts Center near Daerim Stn. on line 2. Bands include Crash, Diablo, Vanilla Unity, PIA and Buiret. Tickets are W25,000 for first floor seats and W15,000 for second floor seats. They are available online on Interpark. guroartsvalley.or.kr July 2nd - 3rd will bring us the Rainbow Music Camping Festival, which will be held at one of the big getaways for Seoulites seeking a respite from the city and a little exposure to nature—Namiseom. There will be a couple of Western acts headlining (namely KT Tunstall on Saturday night and Brian McNight on Sunday) but for the most part the acts will be a who’s who of up-and-coming Korean talent. YB, 10 cm, Gangsanae (강산에), Lee Sang-eun (이상은), Windy City and many other popular Korean acts will take the stage the first weekend in July. It’s a great chance to hear a wide variety of local bands and pick your favorites. As a primarily Korean festival, however, there’s no English site and don’t expect the Korean one to work with anything other than MS Explorer 6. rainbowfestival.co.kr

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Down south is the Busan International Music Festival, scheduled for August 5th - 7th at Samnak Riverside Park. They have a strong line up of Korean bands such as Guckkasten, Buhwal and YB, along with The Haunted from Sweden and Firehouse from the US. bff.or.kr/ENG/Rock Next is the Stepping Stone Festival on Jeju Island. Last year’s festival took place in October but this year it’s scheduled to take place sometime over the summer. It’ll be the 8th installment of the fest and tickets are usually free. lltheplasticdayll@gmail.com Finally, we head back to Seoul for the Grand Mint Festival. Last year’s event took place on October 23rd and 24th at Olympic Park and this year’s event is expected to take place around the same time. Tickets are W66,000 for one and W99,000 for two days. Last year featured Peppertones, Teenage Fan Club and Clazziquai Project. grandmintfestival.com The following two festivals have already taken place, but you can attend next year.

Greenplugged Festival is held every May and brings in around 100 groups from all different genres from heavy metal to hip hop to perform over two days on five stages spread throughout a park. The festival moved to Nanji Hangang Park (previous site of the World DJ Festival) this year and tickets run about W55,000 won for one day. greenplugged.com Of the heavy metal persuasion? Then catch the Core and Metal Fest in Hongdae. This year’s event took place on June 11th at Sapiens 7 live club. Groups included Insane Dogs, Skald and Noeazy.

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Mon.-Tue. 20:00 / Wed.-Sun. & Holidays 17:00, 20:00 10 Magazine July 2011 | 31

Booking & Info 02-739-8288 www.nanta.co.kr become a member for free and get a 10% discount every day

E dited by DAVI D CA R RUTH and s u n k y u ng L e e

Dreams Come True with Disney Package

JW Marriott Seoul The Walt Disney Exhibition Package adds the JW Marriott Seoul’s opulent five-star amenities to the delights of Walt Disney’s beloved cartoons. Guests get to stay in an Executive Superior Room with fantastic views, designer furnishings and fully interactive 40” TV and receive two complimentary tickets to the Disney “Dreams Come True” exhibition held at the Seoul Art Center. Only 150 rooms will be available (June 24th - August 31st). The package is only offered to local residents. W299,000++. jw-marriott.co.kr 02-6282-6282

Summer Vacationers Offered Some Serious R&R

Renaissance Seoul Hotel The Renaissance Seoul Hotel is offering a relaxing “Summer Refresh Package” for those wanting to spend a pleasant vacation without leaving the city. For true summer relaxation, indulge in a night in a deluxe room, two Renaissance summer cocktails and a variety of other benefits (W155,000++). Prices may change during the peak summer season. Package available through August 31st. renaissanceseoul.com 02-2222-8500

Black Noodles for the 4th of July

Hotel Inter-Burgo Wonju The Chinese restaurant located in the Gangwon-do Wonju Hotel Inter-Burgo is offering black noodles for 50% off on the 4th of every month. They make the sauces themselves to create a more intense, enjoyable flavor for customers.

Lunch 12 – 3 pm, dinner 5:30 pm - 10 pm. hotel.inter-burgo.com 033-769-8225

Dive Into Summer at a Luxurious Outdoor Pool Grand Hyatt Seoul

Time to Try a Chi Power Lunch

Courtyard by Marriott Seoul MoMo Café answers the question, “Where should we have lunch?” with a summer full of various, healthy choices, available through August 31st. Lunch at MoMo combines unlimited access to the salad and dessert bars with an entree chosen from four nutritious Italian (W29,000++) or four Korean (W32,000++) sets. 02-26383081. courtyardseoul.com

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10 Magazine July 2011

Fresh, Sweet, Homemade Bingsu

Park Hyatt Seoul With natural sunlight streaming through the 24th-floor windows, The Lounge at the Park Hyatt Seoul presents unique homemade bingsu (shaved ice), available from spring to late summer. The chef’s special recipe includes ice flakes mixed with milk, condensed milk and other yummy ingredients. Extra chocolate sauce, berry sauce and whipped cream are also available for those who want a sweeter, richer taste. W24,000+. parkhyattseoul.co.kr 02-2016-1205

The “Summer Awaken” package at the Grand Hyatt Seoul begins with a delightful breakfast buffet for two at the hotel’s café restaurant The Terrace followed by a day of rest and relaxation at the hotel’s unparalleled outdoor swimming pool. Here, guests can take in panoramic views of the city and Han River. Access is limited to hotel guests and members of Club Olympus. Good through August 31st. W274,000++. seoul.grand.hyatt.com 02-799-8888

Sparkling Summer Nights for Sophisticated Women Grand Hilton Seoul

The Grand Suite, a premium serviced residence located adjacent to the Grand Hilton Seoul, is offering the “Sparkling Summer Night Ladies Package” through September 5th for chic and refined women.

The package provides a perfect way for groups of 4 or 6 women to enjoy a great night out and get through the heat of summer.

W209,000++ - W229,000++. grandhiltonseoul.com 02-2287-8400

+ = subject to 10% VAT, ++ = subject to 10% VAT and 10% service charge

Skip the Beach and Head to the Pool

Imperial Palace Why slog through the traffic on your way to the suburbs when you can enjoy a holiday destination right in the middle of Seoul? Head to the outdoor pool at the Imperial Palace Hotel, open through the beginning of September. When you’re done splashing in the pool, stretch out on one of the 30 sun beds to work on your tan. 8:30 pm – 4 pm, W31,000 W61,000. imperialpalace.co.kr 02-3440-8000

Recharge Your Energy with Park Café’s Summer Specials

Marriott Executive Apartments The Marriott Executive Apartment chef has created a fourcourse summer special designed to restore the vigor of those worn down by the summer heat.

The Park Café “Recharge Set” is a potent mix of traditional energy boosters and popular Western recipes. The set begins with familiar American health and comfort foods, while the final courses feature Korean favorites like grilled eel. measeoul.com 02-2090-8050

Cheep, Cold Beer Can Help with the Heat

Astoria Hotel With summer upon us, the Astoria Hotel will be holding a beer festival at the New York-style Italian restaurant Bella Coola 63. Grab a 500cc glass of beer for only W1,959. Every Friday, they will also have a beer buffet at which you can enjoy not only various foods but unlimited beer (6 pm – 9 pm, W25,000). The festival continues until August. 02-2275-7473 10 Magazine July 2011 | 33

Expat News Edited by A ngel a lee and Dav i d Carru t h

J uly 2011

Enjoy Your Summer Vacation with Citi Cards

If you are planning to go abroad this summer, Citicard—a must-take card when traveling overseas—will definitely make your vacation even more exciting. Any Citicard holder can enjoy “Citibank World Privileges,” which include various discounts and benefits like dining, shopping, SPA, and accommodations at 5,000 merchants in 24 countries around the world and especially in Asia. For instance, you can get a 20% discount at the Long Bar at Raffles Hotel in Singapore.

In addition, if your Citicard has the international check card feature, you can withdraw money in local currency instead of having to carry cash or traveler’s checks.

Unlike other cards that charge $2-$6 for overseas withdrawals, Citicard only charges $1. For more information, call 02-2004-1004, visit the Citibank homepage (citibank.co.kr), Citibank World Privileges’ homepage (citiworldprivileges.com), or head to the nearest Citibank global branch.

Pyongyang Trip Itinerary Includes Ultimate Frisbee and Mass Games

Ultimate Frisbee is a fast, athletic disc sport played 7 on 7 on a football pitch. Pyongyang is the capital city of North Korea. The Mass Games are North Korea’s 80,000 strong socialist gymnastics art extravaganza. Combine the three, and you get a great (and athletically stimulating) glimpse into a very different, yet still Korean society. The trip costs 890 euros, which includes a return flight from Beijing to Pyongyang, sight-seeing, food, hotel stay, and entertainment. Visa fee and Mass Games tickets are extra. South Korean citizens sadly can not attend. pyongyanghat@gmail.com.

Seoul Sets Out to Rebuild Walls by 2014 In 1396, it took King Taejo 98 days and 118,070 people to construct the Seoul Fortress. More than 600 years later, the Seoul city government is trying to restore the crumbling ruins in a bid to have Seoul Fortress added as a UNESCO World Heritage site. More than 12 of the total 18.6 km of the Seoul walls have already been rebuilt. Much of the remaining work covers tricky sections where buildings or roads are in the way, which will be handled by building overpasses and setting up granite markers in the ground. By 2014, Seoul officials hope to make the capital the world’s only fortress city.

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10 Magazine July 2011

Slip Into Something More Comfortable with Pull-In With Hollywood stars and European athletes going gaga over it, French underwear brand Pull-In has became a trendy necessity for fashion followers in the US and Europe. The colorful, unique print and the wide elastic waist band are its signature characteristics. Since launching 11 years ago, Pull-In already has over 1,200 branches all over the world, and now they’re opening a shop for their Korean fans. The local website ( pull-in.co.kr) is in Korean only, but you can browse offline at Abbey Road in Apgujeong, Seoul. 02-546-9505

Clothing Swap Helps Expats, Charities Secondhand clothing is no longer an embarrassment: the fashion world has officially deemed it hip, chic, and more importantly, cheap. Riding on the wave of the thrift store and vintage shop craze, Clothing Swap in Seoul allows you to bring your old stuff (a c c e s s o r i e s , m e n a n d c h i l dren’s clothing, and even hairdryers) to the International Christian Assembly Church in Jamwon and exchange it for something you’ll actually use and enjoy. The concept is simple, free, and even charitable, as some of the clothes are donated to the Beautiful Store and Teen Challenge. See the Facebook page “Clothing Swap in Seoul” for more information.

N e wc o m e r s

Each month, dozens of fresh new faces join the crowd of expats living and working in Korea. This is your chance to meet four of them.

As t he new g roup det ail director at Adidas Korea, Neelendra Singh, along with his wife Abha and daughter Navya, moved from India to the other side of Asia.

His open-mindedness and thirst for travel have fueled his enthusiasm to meet new people and create new memories. But for tunately for him, he’s already finding the Korean culture very similar to his own homeland. He’ll assimilate just f ine as he cites BBQ beef as one of his favorite dishes. He’s already halfway there.

Nic Bautista’s previous residence was Kuwait, so he’s familiar with adjusting to different lifestyles. In his work as the commercial attaché at the Embassy of the Philippines in Seoul, his goal is to increase the developing relationship between Korea and the Philippines through tourism, transport, and other key industries. But he’s not just all business. When he’s not hard at work, he can be found eating his favorite dishes— samgyetang and deonjang jjigae—with his lovely wife Wencisly Bautista.

Haili ng f rom the beaut iful coast of Kuala Lumpur is Vincent Arumugam. As the new business manager at NES Global Recruitment, he’s responsible for providing technical recruitment solutions and services to oil and gas projects in Korea, among other duties.

He hopes to tackle some simpler tasks in Korea as well, such as experiencing Korean culture and learning the Korean language. As a new expat in Korea, he welcomes all friendly people to contact him at vincent.arumugam@ nesglobal.com.

After living in Yeouido for two years, Simon Bell recently relocated to Gangnam to work as the new general manager at the Renaissance Seoul Hotel. Though this native Australian might not be quite a newcomer to Korea, he’s still finding pleasant little surprises in Korea, especially in the countryside outside of the city. He’s here with his beautiful wife Michelle and two handsome boys Michael and William.

10 Magazine July 2011 | 35

Gastronomic News J uly 2011

Between Releases Summer Dinner Set Step off the main Itaewon drag into Italian lounge restaurant Between for their summer dinner set.

The meal takes the finest, freshest ingredients and blends them using the chefs’ Italian culinary techniques. The gourmet menu options include prosciutto wrapped in halibut, paccheri with fresh tomatoes, and other dishes. The price per person ranges from W38,000+ to W60,000+, and ingredients vary with the price. Dishes can also be ordered separately. betweenitaewon.com 02-795-6164

This summer is going to be a scorcher, but premium Korean restaurant Bulgogi Brothers is ready to keep your spirits from flagging with a new boyang (energizing) menu. In addition to the popular BBQ options, try out the boyang special course menu, including a main course, rice, and dessert; the hanbang boyang galbi tang, augmented with Oriental medicine; and the beef mung bean jelly salad, chock full of the nutrients that growing children need. bulgogibros.com 02-526-7800

Appealing New Menu Options at The Pizza Peel

If you liked the old menu at Itaewon’s brick oven pizzeria The Pizza Peel, you’ll love the new expanded version. Try out the added cheese pizza options, a Buffalo Ranch pizza, the Texas Ranger (BBQ, mozzarella/cheddar, bacon) or the popular NY calzone with pepperoni, Italian sausage, and extra cheese. There are even some dessert pizzas—if you still have room.

Wash down your tasty pie with some American craft beers: Dead Guy Ale, Indica IPA, and Boont Amber Ale. The Pizza Peel is in Alley Market behind the new Santorini. 02-795-3283

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10 Magazine July 2011

Watch the Sunset from the Rooftop of Suji’s Restaurant As soon as the temperatures creep above 25 degrees Celsius or so, Koreans tend to head indoors for shade and air conditioning. Most Westerners, meanwhile, are perfectly happy braving a little sun for the pleasure of enjoying an iced tea and good food outside. Suji’s Restaurant and Deli in Itaewon has just remodeled their rooftop to cater to your Western desire for outdoor dining, providing beautiful views of the sunset as you eat. Due to low demand on weeknights, they may close the rooftop, so call ahead to make sure it’s still open. 02-797-3698

Shot by Dylan Goldby

Get Your Summer Pick-Me-Up at Bulgogi Brothers

Homebrew Korea Holds “Brew Your Hops Off” Competition This past May 14th, several hundred beer enthusiasts gathered at Oktoberfest in Gangnam, Seoul, for Homebrew Korea’s first event of the year. Twentyseven local brewers entered beers into the competition, which was judged by 10 Magazine food writer Joe McPherson, wine write r Joshua Hall, and Homebrew Korea’s founder Rob Titley.

It took the judges three hours to sample and judge all sixty-two beers. homebrewkorea.com

Hit up Hongdae with the Seoul Pub Crawl

Every Saturday night, the Seoul Pub Crawl invites people from all different walks of life to join a tour of the best bars and clubs in Hongdae such as Beer Space, Shamrock and Roll Irish pub, and Go Gos. It’s a great opportunity to meet new people in a relaxed and fun environment with lots of drink being given out as people hop from bar to bar. Games are played, new friends are made, and sometimes (if you’re lucky) phone numbers are exchanged.

Star ts at 9 pm. W15,000 gets you plenty of drinks and shots. Group discounts available. seoulpubcrawl.com

Edited by K you ng - h ee Li m and Dav i d Carru t h

Jamba Juice Opens Its 5th Korean Branch in Gangnam America’s number 1 smoothie chain Jamba Juice already has stores up and running in Gangdong-gu, Yongsan-gu, Bundang and Incheon Airport, and now Gangnam residents are being shown some love as well with the latest branch opening in Seocho-gu near Gangnam Station. Jamba Juice smoothies are made with fruit, yogurt, and sorbet and are free of artificial flavors or preservatives. These 100% natural drinks are a great supplement for your healthy (or otherwise) lifestyle. jambajuice.co.kr

Pasta and Pastry Among Big Changes at The Spice The Spice restaurant near Hangangjin Station has just added pasta to its weekday lunch menu. Pasta main course options will now be part of the two- and three-course lunch menu (W28,000 and W33,000).

In July, The Spice will also feature a French-inspired lunch and dinner menu with reserve wines available.

With the addition of new pastry chef Kim Jae Youn, the pastry menu will be changing to focus on classic European desserts. For updates on what else is happening in the kitchen, follow “The Spice Kitchen” on Facebook. 02-749-2596

Promotion Brings 30 New Zealand Wines to Korea

La Bocca’s Yogurt Pudding If you’re looking for a healthier option for your morning meal, tr y out La Bocca’s newly released summer item: a tart yogurt pudding topped with nuts and an amarena cherry. Low on calories and high on nutrients, the pudding is bursting with vitamin B and lactic acid. A delicious blend of sweet and sour, it serves as a pleasing snack whenever you decide to stop by.

02-790-5907

Through July 10th, New Zealand Trade and Enterprise (NZTE) will be joining with 30 restaurants and wine bars throughout Korea to introduce wine connoisseurs to New Zealand’s finest wine. Customers at these wine shops will have a chance to try out 30 of the country’s white wines, such as premium labels Cloudy Bay, Villa Maria, and Sileni. Participating restaurants include the Millennium Seoul Hilton Hotel, Bar Rouge at the JW Marriott Hotel, and Macaroni Market in Itaewon. purenzwines.com

“Capture the Variety” to Win Prizes at Tony Roma’s American-style family restaurant Tony Roma’s is mostly known for its ribs, but they’re upping the Miguk factor even more with 14 new menu items including nachos with artichoke dip, beef tenderloin salad, and even mac and cheese. Tony Roma’s is promoting the new menu with an event called “Capture the Variety.” Take a picture of one of these new dishes at a Tony Roma’s branch and upload it to your blog or Facebook page along with a short write-up. Post the URL on the Tony Roma’s site for a chance to win great prizes like a Canon DSLR. The event runs through July 31st. tonyromas.co.kr

37 10 Magazine July 2011

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Richard Gere: “Pilgrim” Photo Exhibit Through July 24th Most know American Richard Gere as the star of Hollywood blockbusters like Pretty Woman and Runaway Bride. But contrary to the image of an actor who was once selected as People magazine’s “sexiest man alive,” Gere is a practicing Buddhist who... [Continued on page 48]

NATIONWIDE

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SEOUL

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GaNGwon PROVINCE

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GYEONGGI PROVINCE

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CHUNGCHEONG PROVINCE

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GYEONGSANG PROVINCE

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JEOLLA PROVINCE

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NETWORKING CALENDAR

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Inside Job

Movies X-Men: First Class

Directed by Matthew Vaughn The last couple of forays into the X-Men franchise have done nothing for me. Whether it was watching Brett Ratner’s turgid mess X-Men: The Last Stand or the rather ordinary X-Men Origins: Wolverine, I had resigned myself to Hollywood never being able to capture the glory of these comic book heroes again. Thank goodness Matthew Vaughn (director of last year’s incredible action flick Kick-Ass) has stepped into the breach and created an X-Men film worthy of the title.

X-Men: First Class takes us back to the end of the second world war and allows us to see how Professor Charles Xavier (played by the always-watchable James McAvoy) and Erik Lehnsherr/Magneto (played

by Pa u l M atthews

by the dashing Michael Fassbender) first developed their mutant talents and how the X-Men were born. We’re treated to some startling action set-pieces and some good old fashioned mutant fisticuffs, as Vaughn guides us into this superhero extravaganza.

If you haven’t seen the previous films, fear not: you’ll have just as much fun as everyone else watching a ragtag bunch of mutant heroes do their best to defeat Kevin Bacon’s sinister Sebastian Shaw.

This film is a welcome reboot of what was previously a rather tired franchise. With the promise of more X-Men movies to come (along with Captain America, The Avengers and Iron Man 3), we are surely entering a golden age for fans of Marvel comics.

Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter... and Spring

Directed by Charles Ferguson If you’re looking for a heartwarming documentary, then you’re best off checking out the Discovery Channel, but if you want to understand the reasons behind the financial crisis of 2008 and you have a couple of hours to spare, then Inside Job may well be the film for you.

Narrated by Matt Damon, Inside Job charts the astronomic rise and catastrophic fall of the financial institutions that most of the public once trusted and now may well despise. Director Charles Ferguson gathers together interviews from leading politicians, professors, journalists and financial giants, piecing together the lead up to the financial crisis and its fallout.

Thanks to judicious editing, explanation and plenty of diagrams, the film never feels overwhelming or too complex. However, it does play out like a university lecture, and as a viewer you may well get the sense that you’ve stepped back into economics class at school. This is a must see for anyone who cares about the economy and is welldeserving of its Oscar win earlier this year.

From left: Henry Paulson, Ben Bernanke, and Timothy Geithner in Inside Job

Classics of Korean Cinema

봄 여름 가을 겨울 그리고 봄 Directed by Kim Ki-duk Kim Ki-duk has taken home cinematic trophies from festivals at Cannes, Berlin and Venice, yet he remains relatively uncelebrated in his home country. I’d urge you to head down to the DVD store, pick up a copy of his 2003 film Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter… and Spring, and see what all the fuss is about.

Split into five parts, the film deals with different stages in the life of a tormented man. The passing seasons show him serving as a very young Buddhist apprentice on a floating monastery, growing up, giving in to sexual desires, coming to terms with having killed his adulterous wife, saying goodbye to his mentor, and finally making peace with himself and the world around him.

Kim’s cinematography is beautiful and the surrounding mountains and the monastery itself are exquisitely shot, but it is the story of the cycle of life that draws the viewer in and hypnotizes 40 | 10 Magazine July 2011

us. The combination of beauty, sadness and cruelty creates an unforgettable filmic experience that will resonate with even the most jaded of audiences. Plus, it contains the best use of a cat as a paintbrush in movie history. Do yourself a favor and get your hands on a copy of this profound and moving film.

NATIONWIDE CALENDAR New This Month June 29th Transformer 3: Dark of

the Moon USA. Action/Adventure/ SF. Shia LaBeouf, Rosie HuntingtonWhiteley; dir. Michael Bay.

Drama. James McAvoy, Robin Wright; dir. Robert Redford.

July 21st Hop USA. Animation/

Comedy. Kaley Cuoco, Russell Brand; dir. Tim Hill.

July 21st The Front Line 고지전

Korea. War/Drama. Shin Ha-gyun, Go Su; dir. Jang Hun.

July 7th Taipei Exchange Taiwan.

NATIONWIDE

June 30th The Conspirator USA.

Dates are subject to change.

‘Where you’re more than just a guest’

Drama/Romance. Lunmei Kwai, Zaizai Lin; dir. Ya-chuan Hsiao.

July 7th You Are Umasou Japan.

Animation/Family. Tetsuya Bessho, Tomoyo Harada; dir. Masaya Fujimori.

July 7th The Men Who Stare At

Goats USA/UK. Comedy. George Clooney, Ewan McGregor; dir. Grant Heslov.

July 28th Rio Brazil/Canada/USA.

Animation/Adventure/Comedy.

Anne Hathaway, Jesse Eisenberg; dir. Carlos Saldanha.

July 28th Leafie, A Hen Into The Wild

마당을 나온 암탉 Korea. Animation/ Family/Adventure. Mun So-ri, Yu Seung-ho; dir. Oh Seong-yun.

July 28th Captain America: The First

Avenger USA. Action/Adventure.

Chris Evans, Hugo Weaving; dir. Joe Johnston.

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July 28th Detective Conan: Quarter July 14th Harry Potter And The

Deathly Hallows: Part 2 UK/USA. Adventure/Fantasy. Daniel Radcliffe, Emma Watson; dir. David Yates.

July 14th Point Blank France. Thriller.

Gilles Lellouche, Roschdy Zem; dir. Fred Cavayé.

of Silence Japan. Minami Takayama, Wakana Yamazaki; dir. Kobun Shizuno.

TBA Cars 2 USA. Animation/

Comedy. Owen Wilson, Michael Caine; dir. John Lasseter, Brad Lewis.

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Television

by S oy eo n K im b erly Yoo n

Emotion on the Ice Skating Rink Figure skater Kim Yuna introduces a new ice skating variety show to boost public interest in the sport.

Kim Yuna, Korea’s top figure skater and possibly the most famous Korean athlete alive, now appears as a judge on SBS’s new ice skating variety show called Kiss & Cry (키스앤크라이). In this new show, famous actors, idol singers, and comedians (Son Dam-bi, IU, Yun-ho, Krystal from f(x), and others) compete against each other in figure skating. As with many reality shows, the contestant who comes in last place has to leave the show.

Kiss & Cry shows what the participants go through during their practices and how they each feel about figure skating. This show is definitely boosting public interest in figure skating, which is the main reason why Kim Yuna decided to be on the variety show.

Although this new show, which began broadcasting on May 22nd, suffered from low ratings due to other variety shows that were running in the same time slot (I’m a

Singer on MBC and The Qualities of a Man on KBS2), the participants’ astonishing improvement has captured the attention of viewers. Yunho’s first figure skating performance received tremendous praise and a standing ovation from the audiences, along with gaining the highest score from the judges and Kim Yuna. His skating video is still popular on YouTube, on blogs and in the press, which has definitely helped the show to receive more attention from the public.

Another surprise showing was comedian Kim Byeong Man’s skating, which brought tears to the eyes of Kim Yuna and the audience. Kim Byeong Man had suffered from a ligament injury but his figure skating performance as Charlie Chaplin was incredible. His humorous antics had the audience laughing and his persistent effort was particularly inspiring.

The participants are currently teamed up with professional skaters, and all pairs are required to work together and perform as a skating duo in front of the judges and Kim Yuna. Since the participants are of all ages, it is a perfect Sunday afternoon show for a family to watch together. Find out who gets the highest (and lowest) score every Sunday at 6:40 PM on SBS. 10 Magazine July 2011 | 41

ous tracks is astounding. This release adds another chapter to the history of pop music and should be a must on any fan’s list. * * *

The Pimps of Joytime

Billy Joel Live At Shea Stadium Colombia/Legacy Another release that offers up more than enough music and live concert footage to sate even the most demanding listener, this live album catches one of pop music’s living legends striding purposefully through nostalgic realms to close out an era with inimitable style and grace. This two-day show, held in July 2008 in front of more than 110,000 fans, was the last concert ever at Shea Stadium: Billy Joel stepped forth and saw the legendary venue off in magnificent form. This 3-disc CD/DVD truly encapsulates his sense of the spirit of the age and, apart from a minor vocal inconsistency here and there, ineffably locks the music into the broader consciousness. Just about every Billy Joel favorite is here, with a few odd interspersions like pop ode “Zanzibar,” and the cast of musical luminaries on vari-

Janxta Funk Wonderwheel Records This is the kind of album that goes a long way towa r d r e s t o r i ng o ne’s faith in the passion of musical creativity. With this release, The Pimps of Joytime, a Brooklyn-based trio with impeccable street cred, have delivered funk a vital shot in the arm. Following on the heels of 2008’s well-received album High Steppin’, the Pimps have spiced up their already hearty stew of funk, soul, hip hop, Latin, and electrobeat with West African juju, high life and New Orleans gumbo à la The Neville Brothers (“Africa U”). The title track, along with “Take The L Train” and “Thas The Way We Do,” will funk up any life to the max; “Blues Wit’ You” latinizes the funk to perfection; and “Pimpin’ Music” puts the street right in your ear. This is one of the albums of the year so far, and, as the Pimps so rapturously posit, the most important thing is to “Keep That Music Playin.”

Janxta Funk will be released on June 21st.

by M i c h a e l B e rry

Books

42 | 10 Magazine July 2011

Return FNC Music

Resuming their activities in Korea after almost a year, quasir o c k g r o u p F.T. Island bring little i n novat ion w it h EP Return, instead rehashing sub-par melodies amidst rumbling drum rolls and child-proof guitar licks. The band trades electro beats for a tedious acoustic line in opener “Hello Hello,” the band’s major comeback single that cashes in on the effortless manufacture of idols in accessible genres. But the bloated currency of tunes with hollow, predictable titles like “I Must Confess” and “Sunshine Girl” leave the band little room to rock.

Instead, F.T. Island swoon and bleed while looking as neutered and predictable as their pop peers who only differ in their lack of finesse with actual musical instruments. Like the Jonas Brothers and contemporaries CN Blue, F.T. Island’s personification of gentlemanly, softspoken bliss makes for wonderful, glossy posters and too-expensive concert tickets,

by A n n a O r z e l but poor rock music.

by J o hn M ensing

Where is English Headed?

Globish: How the Engli s h L a n g u a ge B e c a m e the World’s Language by Robert McCrum (331 pages W32,340) is a surprisingly excellent read, a page turner which breathlessly exploits the drama of the language’s ascendancy. McCrum tells us how, when the language was near extinction under the heel of the Norman invasion, English flourished despite the adversity. He delights in recounting the highpoints of this language’s prose and poetry, making for a vibrant history. As the tongue evolves, he points out how the language is used by the powerful as well as the powerless; as the people triumph, the language triumphs.

For all the power of this narrative, the last 61 pages of Globish quickly evaporate, as Cr um waxes too wistfully sanguine about the English language’s forthcoming

F.T. Island

ubiquity. A better way to ponder the f ut ure of English is through the history not merely of English, but of all languages. As daunting as this sounds, it’s exactly what Nicholas Ostler does in The Last Lingua Franca: English Until the Return of Babel (330 pages, W28,560), which surveys Persian, Aramaic, Babylonian, Sogdian, Greek, Latin, and other meta-languages which have had their place in the sun, but faded. While Ostler’s scholastic prose is more difficult going than Crum’s inspirational canter, his thoughtful, sorrowful conclusion, that English is bound for resignation, is brought into question only by the wild card of information technology.

No one knows how machine translation and the internet will shake things out.

If you wanted to guess, however, the history of information would be the place to look. In The Information: A History, A The-

ory, A Flood (526 pages, W32,490), James Gleick tells us a story every bit as compelling as the rise of the English language.

Through the biographies of Cha rles Babbage, Alan Turing, Claude Shannon, George Boole, Norbert Wiener and other key players, Gleick takes us to a time before the flood, recounting how things got named, and how they changed society. It’s unbelievable.

While this works exceedingly well, some of the material is less germane, and Gleick fetishizes a tad too many biographical details. The point nevertheless clearly comes through, that the revolution in information technology was made possible by divorcing meaning from the signal. Thus, the answer to the question “Will English survive as a Lingua Franca?” will only come when we reap the whirlwind of semiotic payback.

A more intimate discussion of these titles can be had at our website. Next month, we will review fiction, and Canadian fiction at that.

Tech

by S taff o rd L umsden

So You’re Going to Start the Great Korean Blog Blogs. You read them, you mention them on Facebook, you might even comment on some, so isn’t it time you started your own? A blog is a great way to share your experiences in Korea with friends and family back home, not to mention sharing tips and tricks with fellow expats already in Korea

There are literally hundreds of options for where to put your blog and what software you can use to produce it. Blogger (blogger.com) is perhaps the easiest and is free from Google. Following the easy setup wizard, blogger will have you up and posting in minutes, and while the simple text entry interface might be all you need to use, there are a number of advanced formatting options under the hood letting you customize the look and feel of your blog.

nationwide Hotlines Emergency 119 Police 112 Directory Assistance 114 Medical Information Center 1339 This is a 24-hour, nationwide hospital information service available in English, Korean, Chinese and Japanese.

WordPress (wordpress.com) is another free option offering much more f lexibility for those bloggers who are more technically inclined.

Plugins for fighting spam, customized templates and the ability to host your content on a server of your choice (rather than being at the mercy of Google) are just some of the things that make WordPress appealing to bloggers.

Squarespace (squarespace.com) provides an all-in-one solution that marries the technical prowess of WordPress with the simplicity of Blogger. For $12 a month, Squarespace will host your content, and it provides almost limitless customization with different types of pages, galleries, portfolios, and social media widgets linking you to services like Facebook and Twitter.

Citibank citibank.co.kr Deutsche Bank Bank of America Bank of China BNP Paribas

bnpparibas.co.kr HSBC

Tips for Would-Be Bloggers Get a personalized domain name All three services have options allowing you to purchase a .com, .net or even .org domain name, usually starting at just 99 cents.

Don’t mention kimchi in your blog’s title It’s a cliché. But beyond “My Year in Korea,” do mention something Korean, something about the country that you love, hate, or just find intriguing. After all, your blog is a reflection of you and your experiences. There’s no reason to join the kimchi crowd (I don’t think that one’s taken yet!).

Post a lot and post regularly No one likes an infrequently written blog, neither do they like it when each post starts with the excuse, “Sorry for not posting in a while.” Remember your friends, family and readers want to know what life is like here in Korea. Your blog can tell them that and so much more.

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Major Foreign Banks American Express americanexpress.co.kr 02-2000-8100 Australia & New Zealand Banking Group 02-3700-3100 China Construction Bank ccbseoul.com 02-6730-1718

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10 Magazine July 2011 | 43

Food Review

SEOUL

ANZU

Bossam

Jung Sik Dang Does It Again W o rds a n d s h ot s b y J o e mc p h e r s o n

The latest addition to the Jung Sik Dang family of restaurants offers fine dining in a casual atmosphere.

A

long time ago, we talked about a little place called Jung Sik Dang.

Since then it has gotten a widespread reputation as one of the best, and sometimes the best, restaurant in all of Korea. Chef Yim Jung Sik’s whimsical approach to modern Korean cuisine which still puts flavor first has landed him many admirers and a small restaurant empire.

Since our original review in November 2009, Jung Sik Dang has moved to Dosan Park in Apgujeong, is opening a buzzworthy location in New York, and has converted the first location into a bistro called Jung Sik Dang ANZU under the leadership of Chef Kwon Oh-seong.

For those of you who want to try the JSD experience in a more low-key atmosphere, ANZU is the place. In the summer, the place is open air with an interior that resembles a coffee shop covered with

artwork with ANZU’s trademark color splotches.

The menu is more casual, as are the prices. And the items are more like common Korean food but with a few surprises. They serve a mean Korean green chile pasta that’s like a linguine in white clam sauce—but green. The flavor of the fresh chiles shine, and the kick is subtle. For the brave ones out there, they serve a meongge (멍게, sea squirt) bibimbap with black rice. For those who haven’t tried sea squirt, it’s an acquired taste that’s strong on the iodine. But once you acquire that taste, it’s addictive. There’s even an appearance of what may be a relative of Chef Yim’s signature dish, the seven-f lavor pork belly.

This time it’s called a bossam. Yet it’s still slowly cooked and then seared on the outside, making it crispy yet sinfully luscious.

It’s accompanied by some simple pickled onions and shredded radish that serve to enhance the perfectly cooked pork.

Jung Sik Dang ANZU is open for lunch and makes a great stop if you are in the Apgujeong area. They close their doors

briefly in the afternoon and open them back up for the evening, when they become a casual pub specializing in their namesake anju, the side dishes that accompany a night of drinking. They have an extensive Korean liquor list and even some liquor and anju sets. The service is friendly, and the staff will even give you their own personal recommendations if you ask. Jung Sik Dang ANZU makes a great addition to the JSD family for the times when you want that signature taste in a more casual setting.

10 Magazine reimburses reviewers for their meals and never notifies restaurants that they will be reviewed.

English menu and some staff speak English Smoking allowed Vegetarians will find some love here There are a few steps at the entrance Not necessary at this time Ideal place for a nice lunch or night out with modern Korean flair Not the most convenient of locations W3,000 to W50,000 02-518-4654 1F, Su-Jung B/D, 567-28 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul. Apgujeong Stn (line 3, ex. 4).

Take the fourth right. It’s on the right where the road curves.

Weekdays 11:30 am – 3 pm, 6 pm – 12 am; Saturday 6 pm – 12 am, closed Sunday

Sea Squirt Bibimbap 44 | 10 Magazine July 2011

Korean Chile Pasta

jungsikdang.com/home/anzu.php

FOODIE FINDS

The Good, the Bad, and the Greasy When the craving strikes for a big, floppy, slice of New Yorkstyle pizza, head to one of the several Mick Jones’s Pizza locations in Seoul. It’s not the place to go if you’re looking for gourmet toppings and artisan cheeses, but Mick Jones’s straightforward meat-and-mozzarella offerings are served up in foldable slices big enough to hang off the sides of the plate and cheap enough that you can eat yourself to the point of immobility for less than W10,000. The bacon cheddar pizza is the standout here, while the lemon garlic, with its sickly-sweet lemon syrup glaze, is the one to avoid. Round out your satisfyingly authentic greasy pizza experience with a cheap draft beer or a not-so-cheap imported bottle. Eight Seoul locations include Sinsa, Hongdae, and Sukdae. mickjones.co.kr 2299-9525

Words and shot by G e org e M arsh a l l Brow n

Burgers From Around the World The Korea burger renaissance continues. This time it’s in the form of another small burger counter, Mira Diner, near Euljiro 4-ga. What makes this place stand out is its global tour de force of burger styles. The basic burger is topped with jalapenos. The German burger comes with sauerkraut. The Ninja has wasabi and pickled ginger. And of course you gotta have the Korean entry, the Daehanmin, which is topped with kimchi and a spicy sauce. It’s perfectly gooey, and seriously, kimchi is such a great burger condiment that you’ll wonder why you hadn’t tried it before. Go to Eulji-ro 4-ga Station, exit 10. Turn left at Eulji-ro 20gil. It’s on your right. 15-11 Inhyeon-dong 1-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul.

02-2261-2901 Words and shot by Joe McPh e rson

Honest-to-Goodness Vegan Fare

Tucked away in a small second-f loor two-room space, you’ll find a mellow mood, four tables, a personable staff, a pleasantly diverse menu, and thoughtful food at Itaewon’s Honest Loving Hut. Anything and everything you find on the menu is vegan— from the cream pasta to the roll cake. Right off the main strip of Itaewon, Honest offers a healthy haven from busy days and hungry stomachs. This particular Loving Hut caters to traditionally Western lunch fair: salads, pastas, sandwiches, and burgers. A customer favorite is the supreme burger, loaded with a rich and hearty serving of roasted vegetables, pesto, sweet salsa, crisp greens, and a filling bean burger all served on top of moist and chewy vegan bread. 2F, 118-62, Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul. 02-795-2111 Words and shot by Jos h Ham l et

Hanmiri The beautiful Korean cuisine

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Chef’s Seasonal Menu Item Free!

Hanmiri provides an item from the chef’s seasonal menu with purchase.

Not valid with any other discount or promotion

10 Magazine July 2011 | 45

SEOUL discovery

SEOUL

1

3

4

2

5

A Taste of Tokyo in the Heart of Seoul W o rds b y D av i d V o l o d z ko, s h ot s b y Dy l a n G o l d b y

over my head, and was happy to hear the old refrain: Irasshaimase. Welcome. I tucked into a warm bowl of soba noodles as the rain outside poured down. I was so hungry I think I got halfway ead at the center of Seoul where the great Han makes through my meal before it dawned on me but then, like a bottle of its bend lies the Dragon Hill district, or Yongsan-gu, an shōchū, it hit me. The austere wooden interior, the gentle hum of area of rich diversity that’s home to the city’s best elec- Japanese conversations, the taste of buckwheat noodles, even the tronics market, its iconic Namsan Tower, Yongsan Garrison, the rain in its way, made me feel, well, at home—or something like hip little pocket known as Haebangchon, Sookmyung Women’s it, anyway. I stayed in there for what seemed like hours, until the University, Seoul Central Mosque—and Little Tokyo. Situated rain had long passed and I was full, and then stepped out and had in East Ichon, or Dongbu Ichon, this quiet hood doesn’t appear to myself a very satisfying walk around.

How had I missed it before? This area has apparently been live up to its name at first and is in fact so small it’s easy to miss if you don’t know where to look. But then, that’s just part of what booming lately, and not only with Japanese residents from all parts of Seoul but with other foreigners and Koreans as well. One makes it so appealing.

The first time someone told me about Ichon, I was eager. After obvious reason, apart from all the great restaurants and bars, is having lived in Japan for four years, I was excited at the prospect that it’s simply the best place to do your Japanese shopping— of having a place to go where I could buy bags of Niigata rice whether for clothes, groceries or what have you. It’s also probably while keeping my Japanese fresh by talking to people on the the best place to go for out-of-classroom Japanese practice, if you happen to be learning. Everyone street. So I went there on a Sunday speaks it here. You can walk into and walked around the area where any store or shop and be greeted it was supposed to have been, but All you can eat sashimi? I had to as easily in Japanese as in Korean, was sorely disappointed. Was this indulge. The tuna was deep with and often quite well in English, too. it? A few signs in Japanese and f lavor, and incredibly fresh. The They even have church services in some over-priced apartments? I salmon simply melted. I was in heaven.

Japanese. went back later, this time passing Out on the freshly wet streets, I through with a friend who lived there. I didn’t stop to take much in, but then I didn’t see much that passed takoyaki stalls and izakaya one after another, and while it warranted being taken in. Thus, Ichon slipped to the back of my didn’t have quite the same atmosphere that parts of Kobe or Hirothoughts until last autumn when, on a whim, I took a long walk shima sport, it did have something authentic about it, and it was through Yongsan which found me in the middle of an alley in better by far than any of the other Japantowns I’ve seen in the U.S., Canada or other parts of Asia. In fact, it was feeling more and Dongbu Ichon trying to dodge the rain.

I stepped into a small noodle shop for shelter, my jacket pulled more like a corner of Tokyo with every passing minute. A small

Seoul’s Little Tokyo is quiet and unassuming—and sinfully delicious, if you know where to go.

D

46 | 10 Magazine July 2011

SEOUL

6 1 Japanese lanterns hang from storefronts near Gukhwa.

2 Azigen makes some superbly slurpable miso ramen. 3 Skewered mushrooms and chicken adorn a plate at Gukhwa. 4 Sake bottles for sale at Azigen are mustered in orderly rows. 5 Gukhwa’s door hangings display a crab, squid, and fish. 6 Gukhwa garnishes its grilled Pacific saury with lettuce, lemons, ginger, wasabi, daikon, and garlic.

grocery selling bargain-priced Japanese products. A Japanesestyle karaoke bar. A woman walking past in a kimono. Reading online later, I found that Korea and Japan established diplomatic relations in 1965 and soon after Japanese companies established subsidiaries in Seoul, bringing with them a large number of Japanese employees. Over 1,000 of them live in Dongbu Ichon today, comprising 1/6th of Seoul’s Japanese population.

I finally found myself across the street from Sinyongsan Elementary School in an alley next to the Samik Apartments, unable to resist sitting down for another bite when I walked past the sashimi tabehodai sign for Mori Sushi (모리스시 02-790-3993).

All you can eat sashimi? I had to indulge. The tuna was deep with flavor, and incredibly fresh. The salmon simply melted. I was in heaven. On my way out, I passed a charming place nearby called Gookhwa (국화 02-794-8105), an old-fashioned Japanese bar with standing room only that looked like it could’ve been an Asakusa hole-in-the-wall. I made a mental note to come back next time.

Other spots I saw worth checking out were Gikku (기꾸 02-7948584), a sushiya near Ichon Hyundai Apartments; Azigen (아지겐 02-790-8177), also near Sinyongsan Elementary School, Mitaniya (미타니야 02-797-4060), in the basement of Samik Apartments; and of course Andersen Bakery near Ichon Stn. exit 3-1 (02-7978838), where you can escape the sad monotony of Paris Baguettes and get your cake fix on for real.

I am biased, and I have to say the food was a big part of the experience for me. Being able to converse in Japanese was also a great bonus, but even if you speak no Japanese at all—or Korean—you should have no trouble enjoying your time there. It’s a great place for people who haven’t been to Japan yet, or those who have and miss it. Best of all, it’s right there in Dragon Hill, in the heart of Seoul.

10 Magazine July 2011 | 47

Richard Gere, Mongolian Warrior Mongolia 1955

e di t or’ s p ick

Richard Gere: “Pilgrim” Photo Exhibit SEOUL

[Continued from p. 39] is extremely active in charitable activities. He has been an advocate of the Dalai Lama and Tibet for the past 30 years, and he even started a charity called the Gere Foundation to preserve Tibetan culture.

At the time of printing, Gere was planning on coming to Korea from June 20th – 25th to visit several Buddhist temples, which will also give him a chance to see his photo exhibit. Titled “Pilgrim,” the exhibit displays 64 images of Tibet that were photographed and produced by Gere himself. This collection has already toured 21 cities worldwide.

In addition to Gere’s work, the exhibit features a section called “The Year of Tibet Portfolio.” The 24 photographs in this section were donated to the Tibet House in New York by 24 prominent photographers, including Berenice Abbott, Horst P. Horst, and Mario Giacomelli. The exhibit is being shown at the V Gallery at the Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 11 am - 8 pm. Adults W10,000, teens W8,000, children W6,000. pilgrimkorea.co.kr 02-525-4237

Design & Fashion Ongoing Free Market and Hope Market Saturday afternoons, stop by the playground at Hongdae for some fashionable finds. The Free Market, held on Saturday, focuses on fashion accessories, while the Hope Market on Sundays offers more in the way of arts and crafts. Located close to Hongik Univ. Stn. (line 2) and Sangsu Stn. (line 6). cafe.daum.net/artmarket, cafe.daum.net/hopemarket 02-1330

Art Through July 8th Monster Draw +2 Exhibition Artist Yoon Jin-ho shows off his creativity by mixing opposing ideas. A percentage of the proceeds will be donated to the Red Cross. Gallery Through near Itaewon Stn. (line 6. ex. 2). 12 - 7 pm. Closed Mon. gallerythrough.com 02-798-1900 Through July 31st “Touch Me”: Juergen Teller Photo Exhibit Featuring photographs by famed fashion photographer, Juergen Teller. For more information, see 10mag.com/teller.

Daelim Contemporary Art Museum near Gyeongbokgung Stn. (line 3, ex. 4). 10 am – 6 pm. Children W2,000, Students W3,000, Adults W5,000. daelimmuseum.org 02-720-0667 Through August 10th Contemporary Photography Video Film Performance Images of our planet in the present and what it might be in the future by ten contemporary photographers. Hangaram Art Museum at Seoul Arts Center. 11 am - 8 pm. W6,000 - W10,000. sac.or.kr 02-710-0766 Through August 13th “Isabelle Huppert: Woman of Many Faces” Photo Exhibit Presenting photos of this famous French actress by 70 photographers. Hanmi Museum of Photography near Mongchontoseong Stn. (line 8, ex. 2). Weekday 10 am - 7 pm, weekends 11 am - 6:30 pm. photomuseum.or.kr 02-418-1315 Through August 28th The Song of Nature: Goryeo Celadon from Yucheon-ri By investigating the Goryeo Dynasty celadon kiln site in Yucheon-ri, we can learn more about the character and design of these beautiful pieces of pottery. National Museum of Korea near Ichon Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Tue, Wed, Fri 9 am – 6 pm. Wed, Sat 9 am – 8 pm. Sun 9 am – 7 pm. Closed Mon. Free. museum.go.kr 02-2077-9499 Through September 11th Ethnic Earthenware from the Asian Heart Explore what it means to be Asian through these earthen sculptures.

National Museum of Korea near Ichon Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Tue, Wed, Fri 9 am – 6 pm. Wed, Sat 9 am – 8 pm. Sun 9 am – 7 pm. museum.go.kr 02-2077-9553 Through September 13th Color in Space and Time Master of optical art Cruz Diez offers you a chance to experience the amazing world of colors. Sangsang Toktok Art Museum & Dream Gallery in the Dream Seoul Forest.

10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. W1,000 - W8,000. dfac.or.kr 02-2289-5401 Through September 25th The Art of Disney’s Classic Fairy Tales This exhibit features over 600 original artworks that express Walt Disney’s unique imagination and humanism. Hangaram Design Museum at Seoul Arts Center in Seocho.

Weekdays 11 am - 8 pm, Sat & Sun 10

48 | 10 Magazine July 2011

am - 8 pm. W10,000 - W14,000. dctexhibition.com 02-580-1300 Musée d’Orsay: Dream and Reality Featuring pieces from the collection of the Musée d’Orsay in Paris, including works by Van Gogh, Monet, and Gauguin. Hangaram Art Museum at Seoul Arts Center. 11 am - 8 pm. Closed July 25th. W5,000 - W12,000. sac.or.kr 02-325-1077 July 5th - 10th Korea-China-Japan Int’l Oriental Calligraphy Exhibition If you have a interest in calligraphy, come and compare how different the three country’s styles of calligraphy are. Seoul Calligraphy Art Museum. 11 am - 8 pm.

(7/10 11 am - 4 pm). W3,000. sac.or.kr 02-923-4260 July 8th - August 24th Art and Play: Kinetic Art Tired of rigid, unmoving art exhibitions? Check out the kinetic art on display here. Hangaram Art Museum at Seoul Arts Center. 11 am - 8 pm. Closed 25th. W4,000 - W8,000. sac. or.kr 02-580-1300 July 14th - 17th Handmade Korea Fair Featuring artwork, design, and crafts, all designed by hand. COEX at Samseong Stn. (line 2, ex. 5 & 6). W10,000. 10 am - 6 pm.(Sun 10 am - 5 pm) handmadekorea.co.kr 02-761-2512 July 22nd - 24th The 3rd Seoul Art Festival Interested in buying and selling artwork? The paintings will be displayed and auctioned at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel near Shinnonhyeon Stn. (line 9, ex. 4).

W50,000. safa.or.kr 070-4119-0090 July 23rd - 30th Korea Experimental Art Festival The annual Korean Experimental Art Festival is the biggest experimental and performing arts festival in the country, with more than 300 foreign artists from 30 countries scheduled to participate.

Hongdae area near Hongik Univ. Stn. (line 2. ex. 9). facebook.com/ keaf2011eng 02-322-2852

Theater & Dance Ongoing Drawing Show: Hero Art exhibit or performance? The drawing show is as fun to watch as it is hard to classify.

Drawing Show now presents a totally new show named “Hero” at a different location. Nonverbal performance.

Myungbo Art Hall near Chungmuro Stn. (lines 3 & 7, ex. 7). Weekdays 8 pm, Sat 4 & 7 pm, Sun 3 & 6 pm. Closed Mon. W40,000 - W50,000. drawingtheater.com 02-766-7848 Drum Cat This prize-winning, all-female percussion ensemble works rock, jazz, techno, and Latin rhythms into their complex and powerful non-verbal performance. Myungbo Art Hall - Haram Hall (Jung-gu). Tues - Sat 4 & 10 pm.

Sun & holidays 4 pm. 90 min. Closed Mon. W40,000 - W50,000. drumcat. co.kr 02-586-8489 Fanta-stick This slapstick nonverbal show mixed with Korean traditional music offers you lots of laughs.

Nonverbal performance. Kyunghyang Newspaper Building near Seodaemun Stn. (line 5, ex. 5). Tue - Sun 8 pm. 80 min. W40,000 - W50,000. fanta-stick. co.kr 02-789-5664 Jump Two would-be thieves break into a house full of martial arts masters! First performed in 2003, this non-verbal show

SEOUL CALENDAR

SEOUL

Roy Lichtenstein, Still Life with Crystal Bowl, 1973 Magna on canvas, Whitney Museum of American Art, New York

e di t or’ s p icks

Art Exhibitions Worth a Visit

Little America moves this month from Itaewon over to City Hall. There, at Deoksugung palace, works by Jeff Koons, Jasper Johns, and Roy Lichtenstein tell the story of 20th century American art.

Hosted by the National Museum of Contemporary Art, The American Art: Masterpieces of Everyday Life contains 87 works by noted and influential American artists, on tour from the Whitney Museum in New York. Few artists in the show directly address America as blatantly as Enrique Chavoya or Jasper Johns. Enrique Chavoya’s Roadmap is a global illustration, with all countries but America shrunk so small they could fit inside its borders. Jasper John’s Two Flags, comes from his series of American flags, which has long invited the question: is his altering of the flag blasphemy or pride? Together the pieces in the show pull together a narrative of America growing out of Modernism and finding new, distinctive ways of depicting American life. The American Art closes September 25.

From America, on to Paris. Another impressive body of foreign work is in Seoul this summer at the Seoul Arts Center’s Hangaram Museum. Musee d’Orsay: Dreams and Reality borrows works by Renoir, Van Gogh, and Monet. Starry Night over the Rhone is the crown jewel of the show, inviting viewers to see in person the gobs of paint reproduced millions of times.

Several Monets are also in the show, including a couple lessrecognizable paintings where he shifts from pastel landscapes to portraits. Dreams and Reality closes on September 25th.

The Seoul Arts Center is also hosting Imagine Earth, a photo exhibit posing questions of environmentalism, on through August 10th.

For note-worthy Korean art, head to Deferred Judgment at the Artsonje Museum in Insadong. Deferred Judgment shows new images from Seung Woo Back, including the series Seven Days, which shows iconic Tokyo public spaces stripped of their distinguishing features. It closes July 31st. Words by Russ M art i n Artsonje Museum Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex.1). 11 am – 7 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W1,500. artsonje.org/asc 02-7338945 National Museum of Contemporary Art Deoksugung Palace branch near City Hall Stn. (line 1, ex. 2). 10 am – 5 pm. Sat 10 am – 8 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, minors W1,500. moca.go.kr 02-2022-0600 Seoul Art Center near Nambu Bus Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 11 am - 8 pm. Closed last Mon of the month. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 10 Magazine July 2011 | 49

SEOUL CALENDAR combines a comic story with martial arts moves and impressive visuals. Downtown near Jonggak Stn. Mon 8 pm, Tue – Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun 3 & 6 pm. W40,000 – W50,000. hijump.co.kr 02-722-3995 Korea House Performance Head over to the Korea House for two daily performances based on traditional Korean culture. You can also sample Korean royal cuisine before the show. Nonverbal performance. Chungmuro Stn. (lines 3 & 4, ex. 3). 7 – 8 pm, 8:50 – 9:50 pm. Dinner price starts at W68,000. Performance is W50,000. kangkoku.or.kr 02-2266-9101

SEOUL

Figaro, The Barber of Seville: Opera/ Musical Presented by OTM (Originale Teatro Melodramma), this open-run production of Rossini’s famous opera buffa takes the bold step of featuring theatre actors and actresses in operatic roles. OTM Cheongdam Art Hall. Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 5 pm. 100 min. W20,000 - W50,000. otm.or.kr 070-8157-8064 Legend of Flower This romantic tale of two lovers redefines what a performance can be with stunning sound effects, tantalizing aromas, holographs, and more. Nonverbal performance. Walkerhill Theater at the Sheraton Grande Walkerhill. Mon – Sat 5:30 & 7 pm. 75 min. W60,000 and up. legendofflower. com 02-455-5000 The Marionette: B-Boy Musical This nonverbal b-boy musical won the top prize in an international competition.

Daehan Saengmyeong 63 Art Hall. 8 pm.

Closed Mon & 1st & 3rd Tue. 70 min.

W30,000. 63.co.kr 1661-1063 Miso Chongdong Theater presents Miso, a story of one woman’s encounter with love told through traditional dance, percussion, and music. Nonverbal performance. City Hall Stn. (lines 1, 2). 4 & 8 pm. Closed Mon. W30,000 – W50,000. miso.mct.or.kr 02-751-1500 Music Theater Company “Gong” Experience the emotions of the Joseon dynasty through this modern take on gugak (traditional Korean music) and dance. Seong Kyun Small Theater near Hyewha Stn. (line 4, ex. 4). Every Wednesday at 8 pm. 60 min. W20,000. cafe.daum.net/danceparamita 1544-1555

Dongyeong Munwha Center in Gangnam-gu. In Korean. Thu & Fri 3 pm, Weekends 1 & 3:30 pm (4th 11 am, 1:30 & 3:30 pm, 5th & 6th 1 & 3:30 pm).

Closed Mon & Tue & Wed. 70 min.

W15,000 - W50,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-738-8289 Sa-Choom This non-verbal dance performance tells the story of three friends’ coming of age. Insadong near Jongno 3-ga Stn. (lines 1, 3, & 5, ex. 5).

Tue – Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 7:30 pm, Sun 4 pm. 80 min. W50,000. lovedance.co.kr 070-8249-3023 Samcheonggak Morning Performance Start the day by sipping a cup of seasonal tea and listening to the sound of Korean traditional musical instruments. Samcheonggak in Seongbuk-gu. Free shuttle bus available outside of Euljiro Stn. (line 2, ex. 1) at 9:10 am. Every final Saturday. 10 am - 11 am.

60 min. W20,000. samcheonggak.or.kr 02-765-3700 Seoul Nori Madang: Traditional Performance Korean dancers and singers present you with all the vivid colors and exotic sounds of a traditional performance. At Sokchon Lake Park near Jamsil Stn. (line 2, ex. 3). Sun 3 pm. Free.

02-414-1985 You Are the Hero: The Play The audience is invited to take the stage and help perform the play. In Korean. Kim Dae Beom Little Theater. Weekday 4 & 6 & 8 pm, Weekends 2 & 4 & 6 & 8 pm. 90 min. W30,000. club.cyworld.com/ youarethehero 02-324-1421 Through July 2nd 100 Years, Companions of the Wind: The Play Telling the sorrowful story of Korean-Japanese. Space 111 at Doosan Art Center. In Korean. Weekdays 8 pm, Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 3 pm. Closed Mon. 100 min. W30,000. doosanartcenter.com 02-708-5001 Through July 10th Rain by Cirque Eloize The members of this traveling show aren’t afraid of getting wet. Over 2,000 waterfalls run down from the ceiling, soaking the actors and actresses. LG Arts Center near Yeoksam Stn. (line 2, ex. 7). 8 pm, Sat 2 & 7:30 pm, Sun 2 pm. 120 min. W40,000 W100,000. lgart.com 1577-5266 Through July 26th The Idiot: The Play Based on Fyodor Dostoevsky’s novel of the same name.

English subtitles available. Daehangno Arts Theater near Hyehwa Stn. (line 4, ex.

2). Tue - Sun 8 pm. Closed Mon. W20,000 - W35,000. seoulfactory@ hotmail.com 010-2699-0584

Nanta This kitchen percussion extravaganza is the nonverbal stage show that nearly everyone sees at least once. Two Seoul locations and performances almost daily. Refer to website for more details. W50,000 – W60,000. nanta.co.kr 02-739-8288 Pan An exciting combination of Korean folk songs and percussion of all kinds.

Nonverbal performance. Gwanghwamun Art Hall. Wed - Fri 8 pm. Weekends and holidays at 2 pm. Closed Mon and Tue. 90 min. W30,000 - W50,000. ghmarthall.co.kr 02-722-3416 Pinocchio: The Musical The classic fairy tale Pinocchio returns as a musical. Yerimdang Art Hall at

50 | 10 Magazine July 2011

Through August 15th Jekyll & Hyde: The Musical See two sides of human nature with this musical. In Korean. Charlotte Theater. Weekdays 8 pm, Sat 3 & 7:30 pm, Sun 2 & 6:30 pm. Closed Mon. 160 min. W50,000 - W130,000. charlottetheater.co.kr 1644-0078 Through August 21st Hedwig: The Musical Reserve your seats early for this stylish rock musical. In Korean. KT&G Sangsang Art Hall. W55,000 - W60,000. sangsangarthall.com 02-3404-4314 Through September 4th Spring Awakening: The Musical This innovative rock musical breaks away from established forms. In Korean.

Yeongang Hall at Doosan Art Center.

Weekday 8 pm, weekends 3 & 7 pm. 140 min. W30,000 - W60,000. doosanartcenter.com springawakening.co.kr 02-744-4334

Through December 31st Roommate: The Musical Two girls, one guy, one house! In Korean. 1 Hall at Doore Hall in Daehakno. 8 pm, Sat 4 & 7 pm, Sun 3 & 6 pm. W30,000. cafe.daum. net/2011roommate 02-744-4625

Nongae, the woman who dragged an invading Japanese general into the Nam River where they both drowned. Opera Theatre at Seoul Art Center. 7:30 pm.

120 min. W20,000 - W200,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300

Through July 24th Korea Opera Festival The Seoul Arts Center will be hosting productions of operas old and new this summer. 7/1 - 7/10: Siegfried by Wagner. 7/2 - 7/6: Tosca by Puccini. 7/12 - 7/15: Nongae by Ji Seong-ho (2006). 7/21 - 7/24: When Buckwheat Flowers Bloom by Woo Jong-ok (2009). See below for more details. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300

July 19th - August 20th Moby Dick: The Musical The cast of this “actor-musician musical” consider their musical instruments to be just another body part. In Korean. Space 111 at Doosan Art Center. Tue, Thu, Fri 8 pm, Wed 4 & 8 pm, Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 3 pm. Closed Mon. 100 min. W30,000 - W40,000. doosanartcenter.com 02-708-5001

July 1st - 10th Siegfried: The Opera The Korea National Opera presents the first Korean production of Wagner’s opera Der Ring des Nibelungen. Towol Theater at Seoul Arts Center. Weekday 4 pm, weekends 3 pm. Closed on Mon & Thu. W20,000 - W50,000. sac.or.kr 02-586-5284 July 1st - 17th Dance Theater Mirong This dance performance combines the elaborate rituals of the Joseon court with the simpler tastes of the common people.

Namsan Gugakdang. 90 min. Tue & Thu & Fri 8 pm, Wed & Sat & Sun 3 pm.

Closed Mon. W20,000 - W30,000. sejongpac.or.kr 1588-7890 July 2nd - 6th Tosca: The Opera Talented opera singers stage Puccini’s tragic love story.

Opera Theatre at Seoul Arts Center.

Mon - Sat 7:30 pm, Sun 5 pm. Closed 4th. W20,000 - W250,000. sac.or.kr 02-3476-6224 July 6th - 10th Gianni Schicchi: The Opera Regarded as one of Puccini’s best comic operas for its depiction of human greed. Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). Wed - Fri 7:30 pm, Sat & Sun 5 pm & 7:30 pm. W10,000 - W70,000. sejongpac.or.kr 1544-1887 July 6th - December 31st Special Letter: The Musical In this comic musical, a brow-beat private tries to win points with his sergeant by having a friend pose as a female pen pal. In Korean. Daehakno SM Art Hall near Hyehwa Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Weekday 8 pm, Sat 4 & 7 pm, Sun & Holidays 4 & 7 pm. Closed Mon. 110 min. W40,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-764-8760 July 8th - October 30th The Old Man and The Sea: The Play A modern interpretation of Hemingway’s famous novella about an old fisherman.

In Korean. Baekam Art Hall near Samgseong Stn. (line 2, ex. 8). Weekday 8 pm, weekends & holidays 3 & 6 pm.

Closed Mon. baekamhall.com W30,000 - W50,000. 070-7776-6613 July 8th - January 29th Cat in the Rooftop Flat: The Play Applauded at Daehangno, this romantic play based on the online novel is now being staged at Sindorim. In Korean.

Prime Art Hall in Sindorim. Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 7 pm, Sun & Holiday 3 & 6 pm. 100 min. W30,000 cafe.naver.com/ primearthall 02-2111-1146 July 12th - 15th Nongae: The Opera This original Korean opera is based on

Concerts Ongoing 1,000 Won Happiness Every month, the city of Seoul gives you an opportunity to enjoy quality concerts for the price of W1,000! Sign up between 5th and 7th of each month to win a seat.

Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). sejongpac.or.kr/happy 1000 1544-1887

SEOUL

July 1st - 3rd I Am the Pilot in Command: The Play An experimental dance theatre performance. In English. Club After in Itaewon. 8 pm. W15,000 includes one drink. homesoiltheatre.com

Saturday Chamber Music Enjoy your Saturday afternoon sipping a cup of coffee as you listen to great classical pieces played by the chamber orchestra at KT Chamber Hall in Mokdong. This event occurs every other Saturday. This month: 7/2 & 7/16. 4 pm. W10,000. ktchamberhall.com 02-1577-4579 July 1st Russian Opera Stars: Bolshoi Theatre Soloists Gala Concert These fine opera singers present an exciting program full of arias, Russian romance, and even Korean songs (gagok). Concert Hall at Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm. W50,000 - W130,000. sac.or.kr 02-2650-7481 Chamber Music Series 3: All That String The Seoul Philharmonic Orchestra will be performing Vivaldi’s Violin Concerto in A Minor, Mendelssohn’s Octet in E Major, and other pieces.

Sejong Chamber Hall. 7:30 pm. W10,000 - W30,000. sejongpac.or.kr 02-399-1114 July 2nd Huckleberry Finn Concert This indie band consists of a vocalist and guitarist. Sangsangmadang Live Hall. 7 pm. 120 min. W25,000 - W35,000. sangsangmadang.com 070-8867-1825 July 3rd Broccoli, You Too in Concert Despite few TV appearances and little radio exposure, Korean indie band Broccoli, You Too has sold over 50,000 albums. Sangsangmadang Live Hall. 6 pm. 120 min. sangsangmadang.com 070-8862-7686 July 9th Super Sketch This unconventional event brings together artists, bands, and the audience with live drawing, art, shadow theater, and psychedelic visuals performed on vintage overhead projectors. Theater Zero in Hongdae. 8 pm. Pre-sale W16,000, at door W20,000. supercolorsuper.com 010-8546-8381 July 14th 11 o’clock Concert Every second Thursday, cellist Song Young Hoon provides commentary on famous classical pieces. In Korean. 11 am.

W20,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 July 15th Dresden Philharmonic Children’s Choir Performing pieces ranging from the repertoire of Schubert, Schumann and Brahms to the pop favorites of ABBA.

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Myungseong Market

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31-1 Samcheong-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Tel: 02-730-7461, 11:30 am – 10:30 pm (2:30 – 5:30 pm Mon–Fri Break time) 10 Magazine July 2011 | 51

SEOUL CALENDAR Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). 7:30 pm. 100 min. W10,000 - W100,000. sejongpac.or.kr 02-399-1753 Metal Honey Vol. 3 Concert Each month, four metal bands put on a subscription concert. Live Hall at KT&G Sangsangmadang. 8 pm. W25,000 - W35,000. sangsangmadang.com 02-330-6211

July 1st - 3rd MBC Wedding Fair Compare prices and products as you get ready to embark upon married life. aT Center in Gangnam. 11 am - 8 pm. mbcweddingfair.co.kr 02-549-4313 July 2nd - 3rd

Film

SEOUL

Ongoing 8mm: Art Cinema Every other Wednesday night, the Laughing Tree Gallery hosts a free movie night featuring documentaries and art films. Bring your own drinks. The Laughing Tree Gallery is located in Haebangchon near Noksapyeong Stn. (line 6). 8 - 11 pm.

“8mm: Art Cinema” on Facebook. laughingtree.com 010-9528-9333 The Ultimate Wave Tahiti 3D Only the most experienced surfers in peak physical condition can handle the barrel waves unleashed at Teahupo’o Beach in Tahiti. 63 Building, 63 Art Hall Digital 3D Film Section. W11,000 - W12,000.

Please visit the website for screening schedule. 63.co.kr 02-789-5663

Family & Community Ongoing Dialogue in the Dark Experience the life of the visually impaired as you take a tour through darkness with your blind guide.

Vertigo Tower in Sinchon. Weekdays 12 – 8:30 pm, weekends 10 am – 7 pm.

Closed Mon. W20,000 - W30,000. dialogueinthedark.co.kr 02-313-9977 Lunchtime Cultural Performances Every Tuesday and Thursday through October, 30-minute performances are held from 12:20 pm at the permanent outdoor stage at Global Street Plaza in Mugyo-dong, Jung-gu (located behind City Hall near City Hall Stn. (line 1, ex. 4).

Traditional dances, recitals, band concerts, short dramas and magic shows attract numerous viewers at lunchtime. 02-2075-4135 Royal Horse Guard Parade to Draw Visitors to Deoksu Palace From Deoksu Palace’s Daehan Gate to Gwangtong Bridge, there will be a royal horse guard parade every Tuesday until late October. it departs from the palace’s Daehan Gate near City Hall Stn. (lines 1 & 2, ex. 2 & 12). 11 am, 2 & 3 pm. 30 min.

Free. deoksugung.go.kr 02-771-9951 Traditional Culture Experience Mi Su Da You can try on hanbok (Korean traditional clothing), try some tea, and listen to Korean music with English, Chinese and Japanese guides. Seoul Namsan Gukakdang near Chungmuro Stn. (line 3, ex. 3 & 4). 90 min. W35,000 - W50,000. Tue - Sat 4 pm. sejongpac.or.kr 02-399-1114 Through July 17th Cocomong: Special Exhibition Kids learn the importance of the environment as they watch educational movies, play games, and go on thrilling rides. 5th Floor at Sindorim Techno Mart near Sindorim Stn. (line 2). 10:30 am - 7 pm. Closed Mon. W10,000 - W15,000. playcocomong.com 1544-9033 Through August 28th Seoul Kids Motor Show A wonderful experience for kids with pump trolleys to push, go karts to race, and a traffic safety hall to explore. Special Exhibit Hall at Jamsil Stadium. 10 am - 6 pm. W12,000 - W15,000. kizmo.co.kr 1588-7859

52 | 10 Magazine July 2011

R-16 World B-Boy Masters Championship & Urban Arts Festival The festival brings together over 300 street artists, musicians, promoters, and of course b-boys from all parts of the world. Olympic Park near Olympic Park Station (line 5, ex. 3). r16korea.com July 4th - 7th Safety & Health Show Hall A of COEX at Samseong Stn. (line 2, ex. 5 & 6). 10 am - 5 pm. W3,000. kiss21c.org 02-785-4771 July 23rd - 24th Comic World SETEC near Hakyeoul Stn. (line 3). Sat 11 am - 5:30 pm, Sun 10 am - 5:30 pm. W4,000. comicw.co.kr 02-3142-2137

Education & Conferences Ongoing Beginner’s Photography Class Korea’s only photo class taught by a real photographer and English native speaker. You will learn to operate your DSLR and become a much better photographer than before the course starts. Every Sunday outside Mapo Stn. (line 5, ex. 2). W200,000 (with group discount available). facebook.com/ photoseoul kuraeji@gmail.com 010-9609-9965 “Garuya Garuya” Kids’ Flour Workshop Children can familiarize themselves with flour by getting involved in walking on, making dough, and baking it. PMC Kids Hall at COEX Artium 3rd Floor. Weekday 1 pm - 4 pm. Weekends 10:20 am - 4:40 pm. W17,000 W23,000. coex.co.kr 02-738-8289 Insect & Reptile Exhibition A great chance to see various insects in the middle of the city (but fortunately not in your house). Insect & Reptile Exhibition Center in Sindang Stn. (line 6). 10 am - 6 pm.

W10,000. bugsfestival.com 1588-2019 Weekly Lecture on Buddhism Curious about the practice of Zen Buddhism?

English lectures by Zen Master Subul Sunim and others will prove enlightening.

2:30 - 4:30 pm every Saturday except national holidays. Anguk Zen Center, 5 minutes on foot from Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex. 2). angukzen.org 011-229-2829 Through July 11th Coins from the Collection of Dr. Jeong Seong Chae Examine Korea’s history from the vantage point of its coinage, including the country’s first coin, Gunwonjungbo. The National Folk Museum of Korea. 9 am - 6 pm. Closed Tue. Free. nfm.go.kr 02-3704-3114 Through July 24th Maps of the Late Joseon Dynasty This exhibit marks the 150th anniversary of the publication of the map

Daedongyeojido. National Museum of Korea near Ichon Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Tue, Wed, Fri 9 am – 6 pm. Wed, Sat 9 am – 8 pm. Sun 9 am – 7 pm. Closed Mon. Free. museum.go.kr 02-2077-9462 Through November 30th Learn Korean Traditional Crafts Foreigners are welcome to attend classes on aspects of traditional Korean culture such as hanji (Korean paper), hanbok, folklore and dance. The National Folk Museum. 10 am - 12 pm, 2 - 4 pm.

W5,000 - W10,000. varanoteddymania@ gmail.com 02-3704-3104 June 29th - July 1st Smart Work & Mobile Office Fair Telecommuters can get some helpful tips at this expo. COEX Hall A. 10 am - 5 pm. smartworkfair.co.kr 02-6000-6687

July 15th - 17th “Return Farm” Expo This expo aims to change people’s stereotypes about farms and the countryside. Hall C of COEX at Samseong Stn. (line 2, ex. 5 & 6). returnfarm.co.kr 02-557-6776 Organic and Natural Trade Fair This expo reflects Koreans’ increasing interest in organic food. Hall C of COEX at Samseong Stn. (line 2, ex. 5 & 6). 10 am - 5 pm (Sun 10 am - 4 pm). organicshow.co.kr 02-557-6776 Edutainment Expo Hall C of COEX at Samseong Stn. (line 2, ex. 5 & 6). 10 am - 5 pm. W3,000. edu-expo.co.kr 02-557-6776 July 19th - September 18th The Return of the Oegyujanggak Uigwe from France The Oegyujanggak Uigwe (Records of the State Rites of the Joseon Dynasty), a priceless document which was looted by French soldiers in 1866, has finally returned to Korea.

National Museum of Korea near Ichon Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Tue, Wed, Fri 9 am – 6 pm. Wed, Sat 9 am – 8 pm. Sun 9 am – 7 pm. Free. museum.go.kr 02-2077-9487 July 20th - 22nd Seoul Promotion Plan SPP is a contents market for cartoons and animation. COEX Conference Center 3rd Floor. 9:30 am - 6 pm. sppseoul.com 02-3455-8355

Sport & Fitness 2011 K-League

LG Twins at Jamsil Stadium 8th vs KIA Tigers 6:30 pm 9th - 10th vs KIA Tigers 5 pm 12th - 14th vs SK Wyverns 6:30 pm Nexen Heroes at Mokdong Stadium 1st vs SK Wyverns 6:30 pm 2nd - 3rd vs SK Wyverns 5 pm 12th - 14th vs Samsung Lions 6:30 pm 19th - 21st vs LG Twins 6:30 pm 26th - 28th vs Hanhwa Eagles 6:30 pm July 30th Korea & Japan Tour Marathon 5k, 10k, half, and full, to depart from Seoulsaek Park under Mapo Bridge at 8 am (full 7:30 am). Register by July 27th. tourmarathon.com 02-1644-4219

Dine & Drink Ongoing Homemade Italian Luncheons Enjoy delicious Italian cuisine in a relaxing environment with Club Italia Seoul.

Located at the Franciscan Foreign Kindergarten (franciscanfk.com) next to the Italian Embassy between Hannam Stn. (line 6) and Hangangjin Stn. (line 3).

RSVP required. Each Sunday at 1 pm.

W15,000. Search for “Club Italia Seoul” on Facebook. clubitalia.or.kr clubitaliaseul@gmail.com Ongoing Korean Cooking Classes and Market Tour Learn authentic Korean cuisine in English from a Korean chef. Classes held at the O’ngo Cooking Studio near Insadong (Nakwon Sangga). Mon – Fri. 10 am, 2 pm. ongofood.com 02-3446-1607 Korean Night Dining Tour Take a crash course on Korea’s late-night food and drinking culture. W88,000 per person (minimum of 3). 6 – 10 pm ongofood.com 02-3446-1607 Korea Taste Tour This is a 2-hour walking food tour that will show you the real Korea as we seek out classic shops, street stalls, and restaurants. 11 – 1 pm. ongofood.com 02-3446-1607

힐링핸즈

Saturday Korean Cooking Classes The chefs at O’ngo Culinary School give you a deeper understanding of Korean cuisine. W55,000 per class, and W150,000 for three classes. Saturday 11 am. ongofood.com 02-3446-1607

Travel Ongoing Palace Tours Youth volunteers are your guides at these free English tours at Deoksugung Palace, taking place every 2nd and 4th Saturday at 10 am & 2:30 pm. Admission to the palace is W1,000. ici@icworld.or.kr 02-3210-3266 July 2nd - 3rd Wan-do and Jin-do Islands Tour A weekend spent in the unspoiled and rural extreme southern tip of the Korean peninsula, visiting the scenic islands of Wan-do, Bokil-do and Jin-do. W50,000 deposit, approx. W198,000 altogether. raskb.com 02-763-9483

July 9th Seoul vs Sangju at Seoul World Cup Stadium at 8 pm July 23rd Seoul vs Gwangju at Seoul World Cup Stadium at 8 pm

SEOUL

July 7th - 10th Seoul Auto Salon Does your car need an upgrade? Tune in to new ways to “tune” your car at the experience corner.

The 100 companies represented at this expo will help you meet all of your automobile-related needs. COEX near Samseong Stn. (line 2, ex. 5 & 6). 10 am - 6 pm. Adults W8,000, students under 18 yrs W6,000 (3-day tickets adults W22,000, students W16,000). coex.co.kr khk823@seoulmesse.co.kr 02-6000-1513

2011 Baseball Doosan Bears at Jamsil Stadium 1st vs LG Twins 6:30 pm 2nd - 3rd vs LG Twins 5 pm 5th - 7th vs Lotte Giants 6:30 pm 15th vs Nexen Heros 6:30 pm 16th - 17th vs Nexen Heros 5 pm 19th - 21st vs Lotte Giants 6:30 pm 26th - 28th vs LG Twins 6:30 pm

July 16th - 17th Inner Seorak and South Seorak Nature-Rhapsody Tour Enjoy the grand natural beauty of the less-visited northwestern area of South Korea’s

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10 Magazine July 2011 | 53

SEOUL CALENDAR e di t or’ s pick

SEOUL

Stand-Up Expat World Tour July 8th – 9th

Nightlife

The Stand Up Expat World Tour brings together a combination of veteran comics and up-and-comers to entertain expats in dozens of countries from China to the Czech Republic. For the Seoul show, the comics are headliner Ian Edwards (USA), Dharmander Singh (UK), and Nitin Mirani (India/UAE), with Didier Chabi (NL) hosting. While the sense of humor and jokes of these comedians may vary depending on which part of the world they call home, the thing they have in common is their interest in drawing attention to those in need. The tour is working with the World Food Programme’s WeFeedback campaign to feed thousands of children. Seating is limited, so make your reservations soon. Roofers in Itaewon. 5:30 pm. Reserve your tickets for W25,000 (rooftop BBQ is optional) or buy them at the door for W30,000. 010-5590-9219 svenschelwach@gmail.com greatest national park. W50,000 deposit, approx. W189,000 altogether. raskb.com 02-763-9483 July 17th Daecheon Beach Tour Known as the best swimming spot along the entire west coast of Korea, Daecheon Beach is also famous for being the spot of the Boryeong Mud Festival. W49,000. raskb.com 02-763-9483 July 23rd Island-Hopping Tour to Deokjeok-do The island features 2 kilometers of crescent-shaped beach. The tour includes some hiking to the hills and villages. Members W60,000. raskb.com 02-763-9483 July 24th Gangwha-do and Seongmo-do Islands Tour Highlights include the majestic fortress, a prehistoric dolmen, and the oldest Episcopal church in Korea.

W45,000. raskb.com 02-763-9483

Nightlife Ongoing Parties at Club Volume 7/1: Birthday Fridays. 7/9: ATFC (UK). 7/16 Bingo Players. 7/22 F*** me, I’m a DJ. 7/29 Electro Circus. clubvolume.com 1544-2635 First Thursdays Afterwork Chill out at a trendy lounge with other professionals.

Held the first Thursday of each month.

Location and time TBA. afterworkseoul.com Quiz Night at Craftworks Every Wednesday. Great prizes including

54 | 10 Magazine July 2011

W50,000 bar tab for 1st place. craftworkstaphouse.com 02-794-2537 Rhyme Time: Spoken Word and Poetry Every 2nd and 4th Thursday, head to Tony’s Aussie Bar in Itaewon for a literary evening. 8 pm. tonysitaewon. com 02-790-0793 Stand Up Seoul Comedy Night Korea’s finest English language comedians deliver monologues and rants about expat life and other topics.

New acts are welcome! The show starts at 9 pm on every first Thursday of each month at the Rocky Mountain Tavern in Itaewon. Facebook: Stand Up Seoul, james.hershberger@gmail.com Sunday Funday Seoul’s newest open mic comedy night, held on the 2nd and 4th Sunday of each month. Head down to the basement of the newly renovated Phillies Pub in Haebangchon at 7:30 (sign up at 7 pm). ekweber2@yahoo.com July 8th French Attack Party: Leonard de Leonard This pioneering DJ and producer cannot be pigeonholed into one musical genre. He is a hybrid of all things amazing. Mansion in Hongdae at 10 pm. W20,000 including 1 free drink.

010-4036-1909 July 22nd Viewziclub Cutting-edge electronic bands such as YNot? Glen Check, Telepathy, and others perform as an lineup of VJs accompany them on screen. ticket.yes24.com 1544-6339

Seoul Foreigner Assistance

Insurance

Relocation

Samsung Fire and Marine Insurance Automobile and motorcycle insurance provided by one of Korea’s most reliable conglomerates. Also available; Life/ Annuities, Business/Fire, Supplemental Medical, Travel Insurance. 010-3232-0625 Law Firm

Museums

Gahoe Museum gahoemuseum.org 02-741-0466 World Jewelry Museum wjmuseum.com 02-730-1610 Kimchi Field Museum kimchimuseum.co.kr 02-6002-6456 Kyung-in Museum of Fine Art Kyunginart.co.kr 02-733-4448 Leeum Samsung Museum of Art leeum.org 02-2014-6901 Museum of Korean Traditional Music ncktpa.go.kr 02-580-3130 National Folk Museum nfm.go.kr 02-3704-3114 National Museum of Korea museum.go.kr 02-2077-9000 National Palace Museum of Korea gogung.go.kr 02-3701-7500 Seoul Art Center sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Seoul Museum of Art seoulmoa.seoul.go.kr 02-120 Seoul National Science Museum ssm.go.kr 02-3668-2200 War Memorial warmemo.or.kr 02-709-3139 Korean Tours

Crown Relocation Worldwide When your family is looking to move, trust your worldly possessions to the CV2011SG_May_pr003.indd 1 23/05/2011 15:33:40 professionals at Crown. 02-796-5717

Noksapyeong Itaewon McDonald’s Market

Only takes 1 minute

Burger King Hannam-dong International Arcade

02-796-9052 Ambrosia Customized Embroidery You write it, he’ll sew it! It only takes a minute to have your name or message embroidered on hats, luggage tags, backpacks, T-shirts, ties and jackets.

56-9, Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. mrnameonhat.co.kr 02-796-9052 Travel Agencies

Cosmo.jin Tour cosmojin.com Fides Travel fidestravel.co.kr

Civil & Criminal

JM Law Group Hard to find a good lawyer in Korea? We at JM Law Group will fight for your legal rights from employment disputes to business transactions. For a free consultation, please email us at kkim@jmlaw.co.kr

Accessories

On hats & luggage tags

A Few Good Lawyers

US & Korean Attorneys

02-318-0345 02-755-5470

Radio

TBS eFM FM 101.3 American Forces Network

AM 1530 / FM 102.7 Transportation

International Taxi (English Speaking)

1644-2255 Jumbo Taxi Service (more expensive)

02-888-2000 Interactive Subway Map smrt.co.kr Hotels/Accommodations

KoreaHotel.com Korea’s version of Expedia. koreahotel.com 4-5 Star Hotels Astoria 02-2268-7111 COEX InterContinental 02-3452-2500 Courtyard 02-2638-3000 Grand InterContinental 02-555-5656 JW Marriott 02-6282-6262 Millenium Hilton 02-753-7788

chiropractor, uses pilates/yoga and body balancing therapy to help you reenergize your mind and achieve optimal health.

F2, 736-21 Hannam-dong, Yongsangu. nywc.co.kr 02-792-2296 Ra Dental Clinic 02-569-8745 Tufts Dental Clinic 02-553-7512

Adventure Korea adventurekorea.com 018-242-5536 Korean Safari koreansafari.com 019-542-2955 Korean Cooking Classes with Ms. Chang Want to do more than sightseeing? How about taking a Korean cooking class? This is your chance to experience the everyday meals of a Korean family. koreancookingclasses. blogspot.com 010-7193-2068 O’ngo Culinary Tours Korean food tours and cooking classes in Seoul.

Tours and classes are taught by Korean food experts. Experience the culture through the cuisine. ongofood.com 010-6661-7769 Royal Asiatic Society Korea Branch raskb.com 02-763-9483 USO DMZ Tours affiliates.uso.org/korea 02-795-3028 WOW Corea Tour wowcoreatour.com 02-739-3337 Medical Services

A Plus Dental aplusdental.co.kr 02-3442-7616 Hus Hu Dental & Skin Clinic hus-hu.com 02-519-8013 Jaseng Hospital of Oriental Medicine Are you suffering from back or neck pain? Visit the non-surgical spinal specialists. jaseng.net 02-3218-2167 Korea Counseling Psychological Association krcpa.or.kr 02-498-8293 Korea HIV/AIDS Prevention & Support Center khap.org 02-927-4322 New York Wholistic Care Dr. Vincent Jong, an experienced New York

SEOUL

ATEK (Association for Teachers of English in Korea) atek.or.kr Seoul Dasan (City Info) 02-120 Seoul Global Center global.seoul.go.kr 02-1688-0120 Yeoksam English 02-3453-9038 Yeonnam Chinese 02-6406-8151 Seorae French 02-570-6009 Ichon Japanese 02-2199-8882 Itaewon/Hannam English

02-2199-8883~5

JNC Travel Itaewon Itching to travel?

This travel agent offers worldwide discount air tickets, hotels, professional counseling, and package goods. Mon - Fri 10 am - 7 pm, Sat 10 am - 5 pm, Sun 1 - 5 pm.

02-796-9633 Unique Travel Itaewon uniquetravel.co.kr 02-792-0606 Xanadu Travel xanadu.co.kr 02-795-7771

Renaissance 02-555-0501 Ritz-Carlton 02-3451-8000 Hostels Guest House Baenang Yongsan ghbaenang.com 010-9071-4641 Guesthouse Korea Jongno guesthouseinkorea.com 02-3674-2205 Bebop Guesthouse Hongdae bebop-guesthouse.com, 070-8261-4835 Kim’s Guesthouse Hongdae kimsguesthouse.com 02-337-9894 Namu Guesthouse Hongdae namugh.co.kr 070-8291-4878 Olympic Parktel Jamsil parktel.co.kr/english 02-410-2114 Seoul Backpackers Myeongdong seoulbackpackers.com 02-3672-1972

WY Dentistry Gangnam Better than your dentist back home. Dr. Yoo is a US-trained and licensed dentist with over 20 years of clinical dental experience serving the expat community since 1996. wydent.com 02-514-5575 Religious

Buddhist Seoul International Zen Center seoulzen.org 02-900-4326 Vairocana International Buddhist Meditation Center 02-735-5347 Jetavana Meditation Center jetavanacenter@gmail.com 02-595-5115 Catholic Bomun 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Chunma 02-765-0870 Dongducheon 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Hannam International Church English, Italian, Spanish, French 02-793-2070 Hyewha-dong Catholic Church

02-764-0221 (press 6) Jinjob 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Keumchon 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Philippine Center Tagalog 02-765-0870 Pastral Center for Labor English, Vietnamese, Thai 02-924-2721 Salesio Labor Center Tagalog, Daelim 1 dong 02-765-0870 Sung-dong Social Welfare Center Tagalog 02-765-0870 Yoksam-dong Church 02-553-0801 Catholics in South Korea Facebook Group, Annamarie at sunshineamore25@gmail.com Islam Seoul Central Masjid 02-794-7307 Protestant Gwanglim Church 02-2056-5732 International Lutheran 02-794-6274 Jubilee Church 02-569-2293 Kumnan Church 02-490-7000 Myungsung Presbyterian 02-440-9000 New Philadelphia Church newphiladelphiachurch.com 02-706-2501 Onnuri Church 02-793-9686 Presbyterian Church of the Lord empcl.org 010-2266-6453 Somang Presbyterian 02-512-9191 Seoul Union Church 02-333-7393

10 Magazine July 2011 | 55

SEOUL DIRECTORY Yoido Full Gospel Church 02-782-4851 Yongsan Baptist Church 02-796-0284 Classes

SEOUL Proudly supplied by Kobeak Foods©

Our mission is to help you achieve beauty and harmony in your lifestyle. Our stylists are carefully trained in advanced techniques to bring out the best in your hair. We guarantee that you will receive professional service.

Access Consciousness What if the life you imagined was actually possible?

Regular classes held in Seoul & around Korea. Contact Nate at 010-6285-6283 or nhkent@gmail.com Bikram Yoga Gangnam Feel the 105°F heat of the original Bikram Yoga with 90-minute classes taught by passionate instructors. Behind the Kyobo Tower building, Sinnonhyeon Stn. (line 9, ex.

7). bikramyogakorea.co.kr 02-532-2101 Bellydance Lessons with Eshe Morning, afternoon, and evening classes, plus Sunday classes at the Well Being Studio. navah@live.com Fine Art Class Myeongdong 7 -1 pm Fridays. cafe.daum.net/artd

02-771-2026 Ballet Stretching Itaewon Dance your days away with a diverse selection of classes available: child ballet, yoga, tae bo, yoga for pregnant women, pilates, diet dance, and even salsa classes.

Private training available. Mon–Fri open 9 am–10 pm. 124-7 Itaewon-dong, yongsan-gu. 010-9309-9021 International Guides of Korea Courses in ice climbing, rock climbing and more. iguidekorea.com Jai Center for Yoga and Health jaicenter.co.kr 02-3443-9642 Pottery Classes at Yido Academy Gahoe-dong in Seoul. Fri 10 - 12 am. yidostyle@hanmail.net 02-744-0756 Salsa Lessons in English Top Bar near Apgujeong St. Call Crys at 010-4755-4728 Sanirang Alpine Networks This climbing service offers lessons, clinics, and guided tours. sanirang.net/about. html, info@sanirang.net Suseonjae Meditation and Deep Breathing Classes jihye@suseonjae.org 019-201-5958 Wise-Up Workouts Lose weight and get lean in less than 30 days guaranteed? Author and creator of the No. 1 gym-free program is now in Korea. 1 to 1 service. Grab the book “Wise-Up Workouts” at www. wiseupworkouts.com 010-4998-8722 Community

Brazilians in Seoul Also known as Brasileiros em Seul, this group meets up on the 3rd Tuesday of each month. alocoreia@gmail.com 010-9631-2133 Gangnam Hills Toastmasters Club Helping you develop oral communication and leadership skills. koreatraining@ yahoo.com 010-8779-1969 Republicans Abroad Monthly meetings, events, and lectures for supporters of the USA Republican Party. kmohay@ hotmail.com 010-8688-9810

est1894.com 02-792-1894 The Frypan 02-794-5598 Gallery Through Head here to enjoy fantastic meals, parties, art, and people.

02-798-1900

Gecko’s Terrace The original Itaewon foreigner hangout, with a comfortable atmosphere, delicious food including great sandwiches, salads and pasta, and English-speaking staff that know how to make cocktails and shots right. geckosterrace.com 02-749-9425 Gecko’s Garden Legendary for its gorgeous home-style atmosphere, Gecko’s Garden has now started offering a delicious buffet, with steaks and pasta made to order. Don’t worry; the tapas menu is also still alive and well. geckosterrace.com 02-790-0540 Hollywood Grill The place for Premier League Football and other sports, Hollywood has a great menu of pizza, pasta and steaks along with darts, foosball, pool and Golden Tee. hollywoodgrill.co.kr 02-749-1659

FUSION RESTAURANT TEL: 02.749.0508

Kimchi Pots

Noksapyeong Station Exit 2

Gyeongridan

Indigo A cozy cafe boasting terrific international favorites like their chicken pesto sandwich and a legendary weekend brunch at great prices.

Free wifi.

02-749-0508 Naked Grill Terrific Mexican food, salads and steaks, cooked up to order in a trendy atmosphere. 02-749-4225 Pancakes Original Story Itaewon Mon – Sat 9 am – 10 pm. 02-794-0508 Pita Time Haebangchon The salads, pitas and pizzas here provide a low-calorie, healthy meal. 11 am - 10 pm. pitatime.co.kr 02-790-8891

Restaurants

Trained at Tony&Guy and Vidal Sassoon Academy in UK

Call to make an appointment 070-4227-6158 / 010-3172-3177 Open 10 am — 8 pm English service available

56 | 10 Magazine July 2011

American Chili King Itaewon Beefy burgers and chili served up by owner Kevin Cyr.

02-795-1303 Bonji Bistro Just behind Itaewon Hotel and under Gecko’s Garden, Bonji Bistro offers a terrific menu of salads, sandwiches, pastas and classic tapas along with an unbeatable bar. The floor-to-ceiling window door-walls open wide, making it the perfect place to be for their delicious weekend brunch. geckosterrace.com 02-795-9656 EST 1894 Burgers are cooked up on the special rotagrill. Located just behind the Itaewon Market. 2nd Fl. 34-25 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu.

The Pizza Peel Itaewon Offering fresh classic Italian and Western-style pizzas. Enjoy with beer or wine. We are hard to find but easy to remember!

Dine in or take out.

02-795-3283 Suji’s Itaewon Great American fare in a New York-style bistro atmosphere.

Petra Itaewon 02-790-4433 SPANISH Bodega Jamsil With flamenco on every Friday. bodega.co.kr 02-3432-8686 Thai Buddha’s Belly Itaewon A lounge atmosphere with full bar and cocktails along with great authentic Thai food.

02-796-9330 Eat Me Itaewon Thai fusion dining and lounge, late night kitchen in Itaewon.

Relax in the intimate yet casual dining area and outside patio. Sophisticated atmosphere is sure to please.

070-7624-3149 My Thai Itaewon 02-794-8090 Thai Orchid Itaewon 02-517-1135 Thai Garden Itaewon 02-792-8836 Wang Thai Itaewon Prepared by locally trained chefs, Wang Thai offers only the best of Thai food. Enjoy delicious food in an exotic ambience.

02-749-2746~7

What happens when...

SEOUL

sujis.net 02-797-3698 T.G. Brunch Cafe Chef Choi from Hawaii serves a delightful brunch along with his signature burgers, sandwiches, and more. Wine W2,500 for ladies.

Wednesdays wing night: 10 for W3,000.

02-749-8005 Toque Itaewon 02-794-3834 Austrian Chef Meili Itaewon 02-797-3820 BRAZILIAN Copacabana Itaewon For only W29,000 you get all-you-can-eat of 7 different cuts of roasted meat and a tremendous Brazilian buffet. Make your reservations today!

02-796-1660 Bulgarian Zelen Itaewon 02-749-0600 Chinese Ho Lee Chow Serving up the best North American-style Chinatown cuisine in Korea since 1998, with 5 convenient locations in the greater Seoul area to serve you. holeechow.co.kr. Itaewon 02-793-0802, Apgujeong 02-514-1730 Jamshil 02-411-0688, Dogok 02-34614468, Bundang 02-711-9071 French La Cigale Monmartre Itaewon

02-796-1244 Le Saint-Ex Itaewon 02-795-2465 Italian Fradia Gangnam Gaze out on a panoramic view of the Seoul skyline as you dine on choice Italian food at this cafe floating on the Han River. fradia.co.kr 02-3477-0033 La Bocca Itaewon We can’t decide whether it’s a cafe, pastry shop, deli, or wine bar, but what we are sure about is that the food is fresh and the taste is divine. labocca.co.kr 02-790-5907 Sortino’s Cucina Itaewon Classic Italian trattoria cuisine in a comfortable, homey atmosphere.

02-797-0488 Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong 02-790-0776 Villa Sortino’s Itaewon An incredible Tuscan Villa interior matches perfectly with some delicately prepared Italian flavors. Just across from the Itaewon fire station.

02-553-9000 korean Bulgogi Brothers Delicious Koreanstyle barbecue at locations throughout Seoul including Gangnam, Myeongdong (02-319-3351), Seoul Station, and Times Square. 11:30 am - 10 pm. bulgogibros.com Maple Tree House (단풍나무집) Itaewon Classy Korean BBQ in the alley just behind the Hamilton Hotel (other branches are located in Samcheongdong and Dogok-dong). 116-1 Itaewondong, Yongsan-gu.

02-790-7977 Pulhyanggi Gangnam A tasty concoction of traditional Korean dishes and a contemporary slow-food sensibility, plus performances in the evenings. Close to COEX. 11 am – 10 pm. pulhyanggi.co.kr 02-539-3390 Mexican Amigos Itaewon 02-795-9711 On the Border The #1 American chain hits that craving for fajitas, chimichangas, tacos, burritos, enchiladas and even margaritas. ontheborder.co.kr Sinchon: 02-324-0682 COEX: 02-565-0682 Times Square: 02-2672-0682 Pancho’s Itaewon 02-792-4767 Taco Amigo Itaewon 02-749-5253 Tomatillo Grill Locations at Jonggak Stn., Samseong Stn., and Yeoksam Stn. tomatillo.co.kr 02-734-9225 Middle Eastern Istanbul Noksapyeong 02-796-0271 Marakech Nights Itaewon 02-795-9441

Bars/Lounges/Pubs

Wine Bars Dulce Y Suave Garosugil Stop by this classy Sinsa-dong wine bar for an extensive wine list that won’t break your budget. 5 pm - 3 am. club.cyworld.com/ dulceysuave.

02-515-6750 Vin Ga Apgujeong Immaculate service and a subdued atmosphere make this the wine bar of choice for dinner parties and business meetings. Podo Plaza building near Apgujeong St. podoplaza.co.kr 02-516-1761 Lounges / PUBS 3 Alley Pub Itaewon Rub shoulders with long-term Seoul expats and try your hands at darts or pool in this comfortable foreigner-owned pub.

116-15 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu.

3alleypub.com 02-749-3336 Bar Rouge Itaewon Luxurious wine and tapas bar in the basement of the JW Marriot in Gangnam. Happy hour Tue - Thu 6 - 9 pm.

02-6282-6763

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BA R SHINCHON TEL:(02)3339733

PII T AZE WZ A ON TEL:(02)7920007

HSM's three basic promises to our valuable customers: 1) always something new 2) always something free 3) always something special

Exit #1

w w w.b eeroc lock . c a Beer O’Clock The bar in Sinchon has darts and several sports on big-screen TVs with great food. The Kyeongnidan location will satisfy your Canadian-style pizza needs. Beer O’Clock serves up good times.

Sinchon: 02-333-9733 Berlin Noksapyeong Combining a restaurant, cafe and lounge, Berlin boasts a varied menu, plus wines and all types of music. Noksapyeong St. (line 6). 457-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. awakeinseoul@gmail.com 02-749-0903

Hangangjin Station

High Street Market (2nd floor)

HIGH STREET MARKET

IP Boutique Hotel Japan Plaza Buy the Way Exit #2 Cheil Building 제일기획

PARK HERE

Hannam-dong Community Center Parking Lot

Itaewon Station Subway: Line 2 to Itaewon Station exit #2 Go straight and High Street Market is on your left Line 6 Hangangjin Station exit #1 Go straight and High Street Market will be on your right

10 Magazine July 2011 | 57

SEOUL DIRECTORY

B1 Itaewon One of the most hopping bars in Itaewon on any given night, with guest DJs and a good vibe.

7 pm - 3 am.

02-749-6164

SEOUL Between Itaewon This multi-level lounge serves contemporary Italian and Spanish mains, lunch, brunch and tapas in a sophisticated atmosphere with live DJs and a spacious terrace. 124-7 Yongsan-gu, Itaewon-dong.

02-795-6164

Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong Great home-style Italian cuisine and all-day brunch with an extensive wine, cocktail and beer selection. This is the best that Noksapyeong/Gyeongnidan has to offer.

More info on Facebook: “Noxa Lounge.”

02-790-0776

Bliss Itaewon Fresh beats by DJ Shine and a reasonably priced menu.

Itaewon. 4 pm – 4 am. 02-798-1125 BricX Hongdae, Itaewon Chill out at either of BricX’s two locations.

Hongdae 6 pm – 5 am, 마포구 서교동 409-1, B1, 02-3141-5571. Itaewon 7 pm – 5 am, 용산구 이태원동 119-10, B1, bricx.com 02-795-5572 The Bungalow Itaewon This quirky beach-themed bar has sand on the floor, swinging chairs, and candle-lit rooms.

02-793-2344 Coffee Bar K Cheongdam-dong A Japanese franchise, they may just have the best bartenders in town. Mon – Sat 6 pm - 2 am.

02-516-1970 The Concorde Classic and cozy, this wine and martini bar offers an intimate and timeless atmosphere. Reuben sandwiches, quiche, soups and salads available till 1:00 am.

02-749-1210 Craftworks Taphouse Itaewon Whet your whistle with fine craft beers including Korea’s first IPA, and stave off your appetite with some great eats. craftworkstaphouse.com 02-794-ALES Dillinger’s A classic-styled bar with seven beers on tap, great food and drink specials. Come enjoy our large flatscreen TVs, dartboards and Wii games. A great atmosphere for you and your friends.

02-793-7232 Hollywood Grill Itaewon One of Itaewon’s oldest sports bars, it also has some of Itaewon’s finest pub grub. 123-33 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. 02-749-1659

Phillies Haebangchon The legendary local bar is now remodeled and under new ownership. Great burgers and wings.

02-793-2548 Platoon Kunsthalle Apgujeong Showcasing underground artists and a fine selection of cutting-edge performances. 11 am – 1 am. Closed Sun. 97-22 Gangnam-gu, Nonhyeondong. kunsthalle.com 02-3447-1191 Rocky Mountain Tavern Itaewon Canadians feel right at home with all the hockey jerseys hanging on the walls and great live music and events, along with some of the best buffalo wings in Korea.

Don’t miss the Stand Up Seoul comedy night the first Thursday of each month. rockymountaintavern.com 010-5775-2327 Roofers Itaewon Come hang out in a warm, friendly atmosphere. Sample the mouthwatering menu, relax on the spacious rooftop and enjoy numerous expat events. Facebook: Roofers Rooftop Bar. 02-749-2970 Sam Ryan’s Itaewon This newcomer to the Itaewon scene offers sports fans eight flat screens throughout the bar along with the meanest plate of pork ribs to be found in Seoul. samryans.com 02-749-7933

Adv e r t i s e i n o u r D i r e c to ry !

It’s inexpensive and helps expats and tourists find YOU! marketing@10mag.com or 02-3447-1610 58 | 10 Magazine July 2011

SEOUL DIRECTORY Scrooge Pub/Dicken’s Lounge Itaewon A great little sports bar with pool, darts, delicious food and plenty of English-speaking staff. 02-797-8201

Club Evans Hongdae clubevans.com 02-337-8361 Club Palm Hongdae clubpalm.co.kr 02-336-9016 Once in a Blue Moon Apgujeong onceinabluemoon.co.kr 02-549-5490

SEOUL

Seoul Pub Crawl Meet cool people, play drinking games and party all night long. Where the bars get louder, the drinks get cheaper and the people get better looking. www.seoulpubcrawl. webs.com 010-5839-9257

InterContinental Hotel Oakwood Premier Woori Bank

COEX

Seventy Four Cheongdam-dong A beautiful date spot featuring exotic drinks such as cheese martinis, banana mojitos and cuba libres.

7 pm – 4 am.

02-542-7412

Hyundai Department Store

Teheranno

LINE Line 22 Samseong Stn.

Tokyo Jazz Authentic jazz music performed Mon-Sat, 9:30 pm - 12:30 am by European, American, and Korean musicians. Two minute’s walking distance from the COEX and Grand InterContinental Hotels. 153-44 Samsung-dong.

02-3453-4472

Tony’s Aussie Bar & Bistro Itaewon Home of W6000 Guinness & Kilkenny on tap. Non–smoking environment with authentic Aussie food, beer & wine with Monday open mic and Wednesday comedy night. tonysitaewon.com 02-790-0793 Wolfhound Itaewon Terrific Irish/British classic food in a true Irish Pub atmosphere, including shepherd’s pie, toad in a hole, fish n’ chips, bangers n’ mash along with Guinness and Kilkenny on draft. wolfhoundpub.com 02-749-7971 Cafes

Caffé Bene Whether it’s coffee, gelato, or a waffle you’re looking for, you can find it at one of the 400 Caffé Bene outlets across Korea. caffebene.co.kr

02-3438-6888 Caribou Coffee Popular in America, Caribou Coffee has expanded to Korea with locations at Ewha University, Sinchon, Yangjae, and Incheon Airport.

Support fair trade with the Rainforest Alliance Certified coffee sold here. cariboukorea.co.kr 02-3461-5680 Gourmet Foods

High Street Market Itaewon Freshbaked bread, choice beef cuts, imported cheese, and value-for-money wines, and all in Live Music

Jazz All That Jazz Itaewon 02-795-5701 Cheonnyeondongando (천년동안도) Daehangno (Hyehwa St. Line4) chunnyun.com 02-743-5555

Rock Freebird Hongdae cafe.navercom/ clubfreebird 02-335-4576 Jammers Hongdae jammers.co.kr 02- 325-3914 Just Blues Apgujeong justblues.co.kr 02-542-4788 SoundHolic Hongdae cafe.daum.net/ SoundHolic 02-3142-4233 Massage

Healing Hands Massage Studio healinghands.co.kr 070-7504-8090 Beauty

Jay’s Hairdressing Itaewon. Stylists trained at Tony&Guy and Vidal Sassoon Academy bring out the best in your hair. 2F 126-17 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. 070-4227-6158

All staff are qualified by VIDAL SASSOON.

Become a model and get a FREE make over.

Mon~Sat: 10 am–9 pm Appointment only Tel. 02-512-3798~9

Marie&M Gangnam The right haircut makes all the difference! All staff at this salon are qualified by Vidal Sassoon.

02-512-3798 Tony&Guy Whether it’s a cut, highlight, low light, or hair spa that you want, you’re guaranteed to get professional service from the English-speaking stylists at Toni & Guy. Near Hongik University.

02-338-2773

10 Magazine July 2011 | 59

SEOUL DIRECTORY Clubs

Club Hamilton Hotel Fire Station

n

n Statio

Itaewo

KB Bank

Police Station

[ Itaewon Station Exit 3 ] Tel: 793.2333

SEOUL

America Latina Itaewon opens at 8 pm Wednesdays to Sundays and offers Salsa classes. Check Facebook group: Club America Latina in Seoul.

Answer Cheongdam-dong After a shortlived stint as gala restaurant Le Nuit Blanche, the club we all know and love is back. clubanswer.co.kr 02-514-4311 Ben @Blue Spirit Hongdae Great Japanese curry during the day and soju cocktails at night. Hit up the weekend parties. 360-18 Seokyo-Dong, Mapo-Gu. 02-3142-5301 Eden Gangnam Mega club with top DJs, sizzling sound, and model nights. 역삼동 602 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnamgu, Ritz Carlton Hotel. eden-club.co.kr 010-9913-3919 Function Itaewon The boutique club hidden in the fancy Macaroni Market restaurant. Tue, Wed, Thu 6 pm – 2:30 am; Fri and Sat 6 pm-3:30 am. 737-50 Hannnam1-dong Yongsan-gu. 02-749-9181 Heaven Gangnam The newest member of Seoul’s club scene combines top-notch technology with divine DJs spinning house and electro beats.

W30,000 general admission, W40,000 for after club hours. Near Yeoksam St. clubheaven.co.kr 02-3444-4997 J.J. Mahoney’s The drinks don’t come cheap, but this nightclub at the Grand Hyatt is a favorite with the over-30s crowd. 747-7 Hannam 2-dong. seoul.grand.hyatt.com 02-797-1234 Koobar @Blue Spirit Apgujeong Hip music for a classy crowd. 664-11 Shinsadong, Gangnam-gu.

02-518-5115 Volume Itaewon A true “music lovers” club, Volume is found in the basement of Crown Hotel. Fri and Sat 9 pm - 6 am. W15,000 - W30,000. Crown Hotel B1 clubvolume.com 1544-2635 Tattoos

GOOD FOOD

&

GOOD TIMES LO C AT I O N S

Itaewon Jukjeon Busan Jeju

Gecko’s Terrace, Bonji Bistro, Gecko’s Garden Gecko’s Uyeong Plaza Tel 031 262 9974 Haeundae Beach Pale de CZ Tel 051 747 3069 Island Gecko’s Jungmun Tel 064 739 0845

Proudly supplied by Kobeak Foods©

60 | 10 Magazine July May 2011 2011

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Sunrat Tattoo Hongdae The guys behind the Inkbomb Tattoo Convention bring you old school tattoos, bright colors, and more. Open 1 - 9 pm. 2F Brotherworld, 325-25 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul. sunrattattoo.com 02-336-5698

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GANGWON CALENDAR

Check Out Cheonan

Performances Ongoing Gangneung Gwanno Mask Dance This mask dance is inspired by the gwanno, a class of slave from the Joseon Dynasty. Ojukheon, Gangneung Municipal Museum, and Gyeongpo Beach. Sat 3 pm - 4 pm, Sun 11 am - 12 pm. ojukheon.or.kr 033-643-1301

DIS C OV ER Y

gangwon PROVINCE Hotels/Accommodations

Gangneung Nongak (Farm Music) Every Saturday, you have an opportunity to enjoy nongak, Korea’s traditional farm music. Ojukheon, Gangneung Municipal Museum, and Gyeongpo Beach. 2 - 3 pm. gangwon.to 1330 Through November 27th Arirang Music Theatre Every 2nd, 7th, 12th, 19th, and 26th of the month, you can experience Korea’s history through folk songs, including Arirang. Jeongsun Cultural Art Center. 4:40 pm. muyonsi.com 033-560-2548

Plenty to Do on Jung-do

July 17th Lee Seung-Hwan “The Regrets” Concert Lee Seung Hwan usually holds big concerts, but this time around, he’ll be holding a smaller concert to create a more intimate atmosphere for his fans.

Wonju Chiak Art Center. 6 pm. 120 min.

W77,000. 1688-8616

Family & Community Through September 25th Donggang International Photo Festival Against the beautiful backdrop of Donggang, take part in exchanging photos through exhibitions, workshops, portfolio reviews, and more. Donggang Photography Museum in Yeongwol-gun.

W500 - W1,000. dgphotofestival.com 033-370-2227 July 29th - August 1st Gangneung International Junior Art Festival Youths from six countries—Korea, Japan, Mongolia, Vietnam, Russia, and China—will hold performances in different genres, including traditional dance, hiphop, and much more at Gyeongpo beach in Gangneung. gnart.org 033-642-7145 July 29th - August 7th Taebaek Cool Cinema Festival Of course, film-watching is to be expected but there will be also be a water festival and other experiences to cool you off this hot summer. O2 Resort Ski House & Center Street in Taebaek. Adults W2,000.

Students W1,000. Free until 3 pm. festival.taebaek.go.kr 033-550-2085

Sport & Fitness K-League Football July 2nd Jeju vs Gangwon at Chuncheon Stadium 7 pm July 16th Gangwon vs Ulsan at Gangneung Stadium 7 pm July 14th - 19th Chuncheon Open International Taekwondo Contest See various kinds of contests, including foreigner and group matches, and enjoy taekwondo, one of Korea’s most important cultural expressions. Chuncheon Hoban Stadium. 9 am - 6 pm. koreaopentkd.org 250-3648

Hotel Inter-Burgo Wonju wonju.inter-burgo.com 033-766-8000 W Hotel Wonju w-hotel.co.kr 033-742-5454

Foreigner Assistance Chuncheon Online Info tour.chuncheon.go.kr/eng

Libraries Chuncheon City Library iccl.or.kr 033-254-3887 Taebaek Municipal Library tbmlib.or.kr 033-550-2755

Museums Bangsan Porcelain Museum Yanggu-gun bangsanm.or.kr 033-480-2664 Byeolmaru Observatory Yeongwol-gun yao.or.kr 033-374-7460 Byeolmaru Observatory Yeongwol-gun yao.or.kr 033-374-7460 Chuncheon Makguksu Museum makguksumuseum.com 033-250-4134 Haslla Art World Gangneung haslla.kr 033-644-9411 Marisorigol Musical Instrument Museum Hongcheon-gun great.go.kr 033-430-2016 Mooee Arts Center Pyeongchang-gun mooee.co.kr 033-335-6700 Sokbong Ceramic Museum Sokcho dogong.net 033-638-7711 Sokcho Museum sokchomuse.go.kr 033-639-2977 Teddy Bear Farm Sokcho teddyfarm.net 033-636-3680 Wonju Hanji Museum Wonju wjhanji.co.kr 033-731-2323

Medical Services Gangwon National University Hospital Chuncheon knuh.or.kr/html/index.asp

033-258-2000 Gangnam Hospital Chuncheon ekangnam.co.kr 033-240-7000 Hyundai Animal Clinic Chuncheon dog7582.co.kr 033-256-7582 Ye Dental Clinic Chuncheon ccye.co.kr 033-262-2078

Restaurants Acozza Cafe Wonju Classy pizzas served in chic industrial décor. acozza.co.kr 033-766-7999

Get an early start on summer in Chuncheon at this island getaway.

Jung-do (중도, Jung Island), just a 15-minute trip from downtown Chuncheon, offers space to frolic and have fun all year round. Unlike its more popular neighbor a few kilometers down the river, Namiseom in Gapyeong-gun, it rarely feels like Emart on a Saturday.

While Jung-do is commonly known as a family destination, there are heaps of activities that can keep anyone entertained.

Rent a bike (W5,000/hr, electric bikes W15,000/30 min), take a dip in the pool, kick a soccer ball around, serve up some tennis, or go for a hike. And when the summer heat hits, get into water sports.

If you can’t get enough of this little island in a day, rent a campground or cabin for the night. It’s a small island, so bring some earplugs if you’re a light sleeper! It’s also possible to venture into the wilds of Jung-do and try your hand at bush camping. Just after you hit land, scan for small trails straight ahead or to your right, and these will lead you into the more untamed part of the island.

The year-round ferry and its proximity to the city center provide ample reason for Chuncheonites and visitors to take advantage of this afternoon getaway. Although the amenities on the island are a little rusty (including the fer r y) and food and drink are limited, it’s a nice inexpensive place to chill away from the city with the trip there and back costing less than W6,000.

Getting There

First, take a bus or train to Chuncheon. There are no buses to the island from the bus terminal or Namchuncheon Station, but a taxi costs about W3,000.

Ask for Jung-do. Alternately, from Myeongdong Street, take buses 74 or 75 and get off at Jung-do. The facilities are open 9 am to 6 pm from February to November and 9 am – 5:30 pm during the winter months. gangwondotour.com 033-242-4881 Words and shots by J u di t h A n n C l a nc y

10 Magazine July 2011 | 61

GANGWON

July 16th - 17th Noverbal Musical “Jump” As a comic martial performance, Jump is applauded for its fantastic acrobatics and slapstick comedy. Wonju Baek-un Art Hall. Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 2 & 6 pm. 90 min. W33,000 W44,000. ticket.interpark.com 033-764-1313

GYEONGGI CALENDAR f o odi e f i nd

Art Ongoing The Year of the Rabbit Featuring traditional Korean artifacts depicting rabbits, the exhibition also shows new rabbit characters in Korean society, including Mashimaro, a popular Korean animated character created by Kim Jaein. Gyeonggi Provincial Museum. 10 am 6 pm. Free. musenet.or.kr 031-288-5300 Through July 3rd The Balance for Coexistence Exhibition The pieces at this exhibit attempt to express the balance between nature and humanity. Aramnuri Aram Art Museum in Goyang. Tue, Wed, Thu, and Sun 10 am - 6 pm, Fri & Sat 10 am - 8 pm. W2,000 - W3,000. artgy.or.kr 031-960-0180

A Piece of LA in Yongin McDonalds is a landmark for Westerners in Suji-gu, but who needs to spend W6,000+ on a burger set meal when just a stone’s throw away you can eat a healthy, hearty Korean dish for the same price? Sundubu jjigae (tofu stew) ranked #8 in 10 Magazine’s poll on the top 10 Korean dishes, and if you walk from McDonalds in the direction of Lotte Mart you will find a place which specializes in this popular dish: LA Bukchangdong Sundubu. Yes, it’s a franchise, but the service is personable and the value is unbeatable. Your stomach will ache with the amount of food you can get there for as little as W6,000. All manner of sundubu is available, from the ubiquitous seafood to the more quirky ham and cheese. 108019 Pungdeokcheon-dong, Suji-gu, Yongin. dubuhouse.com 031-889-4188 Words by Patr ick Con way

Image: The Origin of Creatures, Dir.: Floris Kaayk, Netherlands, 2010

e di t or’ s p ick

Gyeonggi Modern Ceramics: 100-Year Record This exhibition shows how master artisans search for a more advantageous environment in which to make ceramics.

Gyeonggi Ceramic Museum in Gwangju.

10 am - 7 pm (Sat & Sun 10 am - 9 pm).

Free. ggcm.or.kr 031-799-1500 Mediascape: à Pas de Nam June Paik Mediascape is the new social landscape that globalization has brought about, as posited by anthropologist Arjun Appadurai. Nam June Paik Art Center in Yongin. Weekdays 10 am - 8 pm, Weekends 10 am - 10 pm. Free. njpartcenter.kr 031-201-8500 Through July 10th Masters of Korean Ink Painting: Chang Wu-seong and Park No-su Compare the paintings of these two artists, similar in form but radically different in execution. Woljeon Museum of Art in Icheon. 10 am - 6 pm. W400 W2,000. iwoljeon.org 031-637-0033

masterpieces and make them come alive for children as well as adults. Seongnam Arts Center (Bundang). 10:30 am - 7:30 pm. W12,000. cafe.naver.com/clalice 1577-4356 July 19th - October 16th Contemporary Art After Marcel Duchamp Both the work of Duchamp and pieces by the generation that followed him. National Museum of Contemporary Art in Gwacheon. Weekdays 10 am - 6 pm, Weekend 10 am - 9 pm. Closed Mon. moca.go.kr 02-2188-6000 July 31st - March 25th Artists of the Year 1995-2010 A chance for visitors to encounter artists of the past and of the future.

National Museum of Contemporary Art in Gwacheon. Weekdays 10 am - 6 pm, Weekend 10 am - 9 pm. Closed Mon. moca.go.kr 02-2188-6000

Theater & Dance Ongoing Saturday Performance at Hwaseong Head down to Hwaseong Castle in Suwon for court dancing, folk music, tight-rope walking, and more. Shinpungru Square at Hwaseonghaenggung. Every Saturday at 2 pm. W500 - W1,500 hs.suwon.ne.kr 031-251-4435 Through December 24th 2011 Vision: Our Dance Watch Korean dancers demonstrate their repertory of traditional pieces. Cozy Small Theatre at Gyeonggi Arts Center. 5 pm. 90 min.

W10,000. ggac.or.kr 031-230-3440 July 7th - 10th Hansel and Gretel: Hybrid Opera Meet a hybrid opera that combines the pure art of operas and the dynamic humor of musicals. Saerasae Theatre at Goyang Aram Nuri Arts Center. Weekday 7 pm, Weekend 3 & 6 pm. W20,000 W60,000. artgy.or.kr 02-3446-9654 July 9th - 10th Ppallae (Laundry): The Musical Laundry is the unifying theme connecting the sorrows and pleasures of everyday life. In Korean. Cozy Small Theatre at Gyeonggi Arts Center. Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 5 pm. 150 min. ggac.or.kr 031-230-3440

Guerrillero Heroico, edicion espacial, 1999 © Estate Korda / La Fabrica

Puchon Int’l Fantastic Film Festival July 14th – 24th

Film

For many expats, Bucheon (former spelling: Puchon) is just a blip on the subway line between Seoul and Incheon. But for cinephiles, the city is the yearly host of PiFan, the Puchon Int’l Fantastic Film Festival. Unlike many festivals, this one focuses on so-called genre films: horror, mystery, animation, and fantasy. Along with several hundred screenings, some of the more interesting festival events are the “Movie Akdang” film-concert combo held in the evening on July 15th – 17th. Clubbers can get down with DJs at PiFan Holic’s Night on July 16th from 10 pm – 4 am. Film screenings will be held at the Korea Comics Museum, Primus Sopung Theater, Bucheon Gymnasium, and other sites in downtown Bucheon, with a shuttle bus servicing the area. Most films are W5,000. pifan.com 032-327-6313 62 | 10 Magazine July 2011

Che Guevara and Cuba, Korda Exhibition Korda was a revolutionary photographer, and many of the photos he took of the Cuban Revolution as well as of Cubans’ everyday lives will be on display at the Alvaro Siza Hall near Gwanak Stn. in Anyang (line 1, ex. 2).

10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. W2,000 W3,000. kordaphoto.co.kr 031-687-0548 Through August 18th 2011 MBC Trick Art Exhibition: Season 2 As season 1 focused on tricky paintings, this season will bring special exhibits filled with technology and motion. 3 Hall at KINTEX in Goyang (Ilsan). 10 am - 7 pm. W12,000. mbctrickart.co.kr 1566-1369 June 29th - August 18th Rhythm of Africa: Exhibition Experience Africa with the sculptures and photos on display and the performances held here, all inspired by the Tears of Africa documentary broadcast on MBC. 3 Hall at KINTEX in Goyang (Ilsan). 10 am - 7 pm. W9,000 - W11,000. tearsafrica.com 031-810-8114 July 1st - August 23rd Science in Art: The Secret of the Mona Lisa Scientific techniques are used to reinterpret famous artistic

July 15th - August 14th Liar 3: The Play This play explores how one little lie can grow into something monstrous. In Korean. Saerasae Theatre at Goyang Aram Nuri Arts Center. Weekday 8 pm, Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 7 pm. Closed Mon. W25,000. artgy.or.kr 1577-7766

Concerts Through July 2nd 2011 Gwacheon Saturday Art Stage Every Saturday at 7:30, head to the outdoor stage for an entertaining concert.

Outdoor Stage of Citizen Hall near Government Complex Gwacheon Stn. (line 4, ex. 10). gcfest.or.kr 02-504-0945 July 5th - 20th Cine Classic Festival: “Maestro 6” Fans of classical music will appreciate this special chance to watch recordings of six great maestros conducting on the big screen. Cozy Small Theatre at Gyeonggi Arts Center. 7 pm. 120 min.

W10,000. ggad.or.kr 031-230-3440 July 9th Norumok Music Picnic 5 Relax outside as you enjoy some fine music performed by bands composed of office workers. Norumok Outdoor Theatre at Goyang Aram Nuri. 7:30 pm. Free. artgy.or.kr 1577-7766

July 29th - 31st Jisan Valley Rock Festival Head to the Jisan Forest Resort in Icheon (note: not Incheon!) for one of Korea’s representative rock festivals, featuring Arctic Monkeys, The Chemical Brothers, Incubus, and many more. Also, see our cover story on p. 28.

W110,000 - W220,000. valleyrockfestival. mnet.com, qna_vrf@q.net

Family & Community Ongoing Cocomong’s Park Let the kids run amok for an afternoon in the Cocomong adventure zones. Gwacheon National Science Museum near Grand Park Stn. (line 4, ex. 5). 10:30 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. W5,000 - W10,000. scientorium.go.kr 1544-0568 Through July 3rd Paju Heyri “Ye” Festival The Chinese character “ye” means “art,” and this festival is a general art event with everything from indie bands to ukulele performances. Heyri Art Valley in Paju. heyri.net 031-946-8551 Through July 27th Little Pig Kkomkkomi Every Wednesday, a Gugak (traditional Korean music) performance for kids is held at Joyous Theatre at the Gyeonggi Arts Center. 11 am.

55 min. W10,000. ggad.or.kr 031-289-6424

Through August 18th Hi Dino Dinosaur Expo Everything about dinosaurs: from their extinction to the process of digging up their fossils. 2 Hall at KINTEX in Goyang (Ilsan). 10 am - 7 pm.

W13,000 - W15,000. hidino.co.kr 1577-6190

Education & Conferences July 20th - 29th Korea Student Invention Exhibition See some of the surprisingly creative inventions concocted by Korean students. Eoullim Hall at Gwacheon National Science Center. 10 am - 6 pm. kosie.net 02-3459-2752

Sport & Fitness

Religious Services

Grace & Truth Church Anyang, Ansan, and Suwon Sunday 9:30 am, 11 am, 1 pm, grace-truth.org 031-443-3731 Dongsan Church Ansan Sunday 11:30 am, 010-2910-7809 Museums

Central America Culture Center Goyang. latina.or.kr 031-962-7171 Elvis Presley Memorial Hall Paju paju.go.kr 031-948-3358 Face Museum Gwangju (Gyeonggi Province). visagej.org 031-765-3522 Korean Lamp (Deung-Jan) Museum Yongin deungjan.or.kr/eng 031-334-0797 Waltz & Dr. Mahn Coffee Museum Namyangju wndcof.com 031-576-6051 Transportation

International Taxi (English speaking)

1644-2255 Jumbo Taxi Service (more expensive) 02-888-2000 Radio

US Armed Forces Network Dongducheon AM 1197/FM 88.3 Pyongtaek AM 1440/FM 88.3 Songtan AM 1359/FM 88.5 Uijeongbu AM 1161/FM 88.5

GYEONGGI

Through July 31st Kids Land With Intangible Culture Exhibition Kids join popular cartoon character Pororo as they ride, slide, and play on the air bounce. Special Exhibit Hall at Bucheon Video Culture Complex.

10 am - 7 pm. W9,000 - W12,000. bkidsland.co.kr 1588-4648

gyeongGI province

Restaurants

Cafe Nicolia Bucheon European-style café and wine bar. cafenicolia.com

032-329-0526 La Mia Cucina Ilsan The kitchen is always open at this English-friendly Italian pub.

7 pm – 4 am.

010-2327-8882 First Nepal Restaurant Incheon firstnepal.com 032-525-8771 Bars/Lounges/Pubs

The Big Chill Suwon Chill out in a big way with the friendly crowd while enjoying a game of pool, darts, or wii. Opens 8 pm on Wed – Sat and 4 pm on Sun. Facebook group, edwardjorgensen@gmail.com 010-3136-0153 The Park Bucheon Rhythm & Blues Bucheon 032-323-0161 West Island Ilsan 031-917-2225

KBO Baseball Games are held at Munhak Stadium, home of the SK Wyverns.

5th - 7th vs Samsung Lions 6:30 pm 8th vs Lotte Giants 6:30 pm 9th - 10th Lotte Giants 5 pm 15th Hanhwa Eagles 6:30 pm 16th - 17th Hanhwa Eagles 5 pm K-League Football July 2nd Incheon vs Gwangju at Incheon World Cup Stadium at 7 pm July 2nd Suwon vs Pohang at Suwon World Cup Stadium at 7:30 pm July 10th Seongnam vs Incheon at Tancheon Stadium at 5 pm July 16th Seongnam vs Jeju at Tancheon Stadium at 7 pm July 16th Suwon vs Incheon at Suwon World Cup Stadium at 7:30 pm July 23rd Incheon vs Gyeongnam at Incheon World Cup Stadium at 7 pm July 16th Pyeongtaek Pear Blossoms Marathon 5k, 10k, half, and full to depart from Pyeongtaek University at 8:30 am. Register by July 12th. tourmarathon.com 031-618-8378

Jukjeon Gecko’s Yongin Bundang and Yongin expats should be ecstatic to know that the famous Gecko’s chain is expanding south. Near the Shinsegye department store. geckosterrace.com

031-262-9974 Clubs

Club Psycho Anyang bcmusicworld.com

010-7754-0409

To inquire about getting a logobox for your business, email to us at marketing@10mag.com 10 Magazine July 2011 | 63

CHUNGCHEONG CALENDAR e di t or’ s p ick

Art Through July 3rd Exchange Exhibition in Daejeon and Saint-Etienne The work of 12 artists from Daejeon and France offers you a good chance to reflect on the boundaries of contemporary art. Exhibition Hall 5 at Daejeon Museum of Art. 10 am - 7 pm (Fri 9 pm). Closed Mon. W300 - W500. dmma.metro.daejeon.kr 042-602-3225 Through July 11th Chungnam Art & Craft Contest 1 & 2 Exhibition Hall at Gongju Culture & Art Center. 9 am - 6 pm. W50,000 - W60,000. acc.gongju.go.kr 041-840-2464

Boryeong Mud Festival July 16th - 24th

Family & Community

CHUNGCHEONG

Back in 1996, scientists in Boryeong concocted several kinds of cosmetics from the mud on Daecheon Beach. In order to promote their medicinal mud, Boryeong organized this festival in 1998. While slathering the mud all over your body supposedly has some health benefits, let’s face it—the real reason people go to the mud fest is because it’s a great excuse to get dirty.

For two weekends in late July, more expats than you have ever seen in Korea (not to mention the Korean merrymakers) gather to Daecheon Beach for a wide range of mud-inspired mayhem: mud pools, mud massage, mudflat skiing, and even a mud prison. Be sure to arrange transportation and reserve a room well in advance. mudfestival.or.kr 011-438-4865 (English) f o odi e f i nd

Through July 24th Figure Art Exhibition Make connections in the art industry and find promising young Chungcheong artists.

Limlip Museum in Gongju-si. 10 am 6 pm. Closed Mon. W2,000 - W3,000. limlipmuseum.org 041-856-7749 Through August 28th Monet to Warhol Four different sections gives visitors the chance to look through the works of Picasso, Monet, Lichtenstein and Warhol. Exhibition Halls 1 & 4 at the Daejeon Museum of Art. 10 am - 7 pm (Fri 9 pm). Closed Mon. W300 - W500. dmma.metro.daejeon.kr 042-602-3225

Concerts July 5th Chamber Music With Commentary By comparing chamber music of the past and present, learn how our lives can be expressed through music. Small Theater at Gongju Culture & Art Center. 7:30 pm.

W1,000. acc.gongju.go.kr 041-840-2467

Family & Community Through July 24th Anteo Village’s Firefly Festival Follow the glow of the fireflies (and avoid the buzz of the mosquitos) around the pristine Daecheong Lake. Anteo Village at Seoktanri, Okcheon-gun. oc.go.kr 043-730-3114 July 21st - 24th Buyeo Seodong and Lotus Festival Seodong is the name of an ancient Buyeo king (back when Buyeo was not just a county but a country), and events related to his formerly royal majesty will be held here. Seodong Park, Buyeo-gun. buyeotour.net 041-830-2921 July 30th Suanbo and Salmi Daehak Corn Festival Suanbo-myeon is famous for two things: spring and their corn festival.

Terminal Hotel Square in Chungju. 10 am 6 pm. cj100.net/tour/festival 043-850-2321

Shisha Is in the House In terms of downright coolness, few places in Daejeon can compete with French-owned The Shisha House. As the name suggests, the café has built its reputation on Middle Eastern water pipes. To indulge, first head down to the humidor in the basement (a separate business) to buy the tobacco and possibly browse through the fine cigars for sale. Head back up to the café on the 1st floor where you can find a pipe. In addition to the hookah, the espresso drinks are excellent—and cheap as well, going for W4,500 or less. If you’re in a boozing mood, they’ve got Big Rock, Anderson Valley, Rogue, and Lost Coast microbrews.

Tell taxi drivers “Gung-dong Lotteria” and walk down the side road with Santa Claus Bar. F1 404-5 Gung-dong, Yuseong-gu, Daejeon. theshishahouse@gmail.com 042-825-4157

Words by Dav i d Carruth and A n dray A bra h ami a n

64 | 10 Magazine July 2011

Education & Conference June 30th - July 3rd Infant Care Expo Kotra Trade Exhibition Center in Daejeon. kotrex.com 1588-4858 July 9th - August 28th Lego Play World Kids can exercise their creativity as they explore a world made of legos. KOTREX in Daejeon. Weekdays 10 am - 6 pm, weekends 10 am - 7 pm. kotrex.com 1588-2532

Sport & Fitness KBO Baseball Games are held at Daejeon Stadium, home of the Hanwha Eagles 5th - 7th vs LG Twins 6:30 pm 8th vs Nexen Heroes 6:30 pm 9th - 10th Nexen Heroes 5 pm 19th - 21st KIA Tigers 6:30 pm 29th SK Wyverns 6:30 pm 30th - 31st SK Wyverns 5 pm

K-League Football July 2nd Daejeon vs Jeonnam at Daejeon World Cup Stadium 7 pm July 23rd Daejeon vs Gangwon at Daejeon World Cup Stadium 7 pm

CHUNGCHEONG PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance Daejeon International Community Center dicc.or.kr 042-223-0789 Daejeon jungwonh@hotmail.com

Classes Yegok Natural Dye Workshop Okcheon-gun Dye clothing or make natural soap. yegok.co.kr 043-733-0978

Entertainment O-World Amusement Park Daejeon oworld.kr 042-580-4820 Kumdori Land Daejeon kumdori.co.kr 042-862-4000

Religious Service Central Presbyterian Church Nonsan 041-736-1002 Presbyterian Church Cheonan 041-555-5100 Central Presbyterian Church Gongju 041-855-0691 Sanseong Church Daejeon jungwonh@hotmail.com 042-585-8111

Museums Alcohol Museum: Liquorium Chungju liquorium.com 043-855-7333 Gonam Shell Mound Museum Taean-gun Anmyeon Island museum.taean.go.kr 041-670-2337 Jincheon Bell Museum Jincheon-gun jincheonbell.net 043-539-3850 Korea Traditional Architecture Museum Yesan-gun English site: ktam.or.kr 041-337-5877

Hotels/Accommodations New Korea Hotel Asan 041-542-8151 Onyang Hot Spring Hotel Asan 041-545-2141 Cheonan Central Hotel Cheonan 041-564-9100 Yuseong Hotel Daejeon 042-822-9591 The Sky Blue Bird Seosan 011-382-1862 Golden Wave Taean 041-675-2008

Medical Services Konyang International Health Care Center Daejeon kihcc.kyuh.co.kr 042-600-9978 Sun Hospital Daejeon 042-220-8000

Restaurants/Supermarkets Gasan Korean, Cheonan 041-561-9500 Spain House Spanish, Cheonan

041-571-7474 Olive Farms Buffet, Cheongju

043-215-3311

Bars/Lounges/Pubs Rolling Stones Cheonan 041-562-9824 MJ Cheongju “MJ Bar” on Facebook.

043-273-8366 Road King Cheongju 010-8301-5936 Blue Moon Cheongwon 043-285-0399 Brickhouse Sports Bar & Grill Daejeon “The Daejeon Brickhouse” on Facebook,

010-9867-0921 J-Rock Daejeon 010-4564-7721 Santa Claus Daejeon “Santa Claus 2008” on Facebook, 042-825-5500 The Shisha House Daejeon “Welcome to the Shisha House” on Facebook.

042-825-4157 042-471-3373 Sponge Daejeon

Live Music Barker’s Live Bar Gyeryong 042-841-0470 Club In Sky 2 Daejeon cafe.daum.net/tjinsky 042-223-7117

GYEONGSANG calendar Art

Theater & Dance

Ongoing Dalmaji Hill Free Market A bustling arts market that happens every Saturday from 3 - 10 pm in Haewoljung (Pavilion) Plaza in Busan. Local artists gather to sell their crafts, draw caricatures, and perform old pop songs. english.busan.go.kr 1330

Ongoing Korean Music and Dance in Busan Performances every Saturday at the National Center for the Korean Traditional Performing Arts in Busan (National Gugak Center in Busan). W8,000. ncktpab.go.kr 051-811-0040

Through July 3rd Gyeongnam Women Artists & Conceptual Writers Exhibition This meaningful exhibition gives opportunities to new women artists and developing local artists. Yoon Seul Art Museum Exhibition Hall in Gimhae. 10 am - 7 am, Fri 10 am - 9 pm. Free. gasc.or.kr 017-581-9215

Through July 16th Daegu Int’l Musical Festival DIMF hopes to be one day called the Broadway of Asia. Performances held at Dongseongno in downtown Daegu. dimf.or.kr 053-622-1945

Old Scenery: The Exhibition The exhibition is mainly focused on Korea’s history through the scenery of Gyeongju captured by photographer Kang Woon-gu. Goeun Museum of Photography in Haeundae-gu, Busan.

10 am - 7 pm. Closed Mon. Free. goeunmuseum.org 051-744-3933 Through July 10th The Walls Between Men: The Exhibition Through many trips around the world, Alexandra and Frank look at the walls standing between people who fail to co-exist and live in harmony. Goeun Museum of Photography in Haeundaegu, Busan. 10 am - 7 pm. Closed Mon. Free. goeunmuseum.org 051-744-3933 Through August 28th Terra-cotta: Primitive Future Terra-cotta, made of clay and water, is a material which has been used for thousands of years. Clay Arch Gimhae Art Museum in Gimhae. 10 am - 6 pm.

Weekends 10 am - 7 pm. Closed Mon. 055-340-7000

e di t or’ s pick

Shilla, Land of the Gods Miso II

Open Run Starting July 1st

July 7th - 10th I Got Fired: The Musical This autobiographical musical is centered around a writer who works for a badtempered boss. One day, he gets fired and is finally able to recognize and achieve his dream. In English. Daegu Opera House.

Thu & Fri 7:30 pm, Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 2 & 6 pm. 90 min. W10,000 - W50,000. daeguoperahouse.org 053-622-1945 July 9th - 10th Nanta: Non-verbal Performance If you’ve never had a chance to see

Busaners love the green mountains, craggy shorelines, and broad beaches that adorn their city, and nowhere do these natural elements combine more spectacularly than in the seaside park known as Igidae. the park now stands. Two Korean gisaeng (female entertainers) were brought to the party. There they grabbed a drunken Japanese commander and flung themselves into the cold water, drowning all three of them.

The name Igidae, meaning “two gisaeng,” honors these courageous women.

Nowadays, the park is a joyful hive of outdoor activities for all walks of life, from young couples snapping cell-phone portraits to raucous groups of middle-aged hikers. For the grand tour, head for the rocky coastal trail. This three-hour hike incorporates plenty of ups and downs, several suspension bridges, a famous film location, a set of dinosaur footprints, and lots

of stunning lookouts. There’s not much in the way of refreshments, though, so bring plenty of water and snacks. Don’t forget sturdy footwear and a camera to capture the incredible scenes of Igidae.

Getting There

Start at Kyungsung University/Pukyong National University Station (line 2) and take bus #20, 22, 24, or 131 to Igidae Ipgu (이기대 입구). Follow the sign to dongsaengmal (동생말) for the trailhead.

From the end of the trail, catch a taxi and head back to the subway at Gyeongseongdae Yeok (경성대역).

Words and shots by Bryc e W ei bl ey

GYEONGSANG

Igidae’s Tragic Past and Glorious Present Fans of Korean cinema may recognize Igidae from the Korean blockbuster Haeundae (Tidal Wave). In the film, Busan rescue worker Hyeong-sik brings vacationing Seoul beauty Hui-mi to a lookout in the park to impress her with the magnificent view towards Gwangan Diamond Bridge and Haeundae. As he starts to explain the park’s history, she snaps that he’s cute until he opens his mouth. I’ll try where he failed, though, since the story is remarkable.

Igidae takes its name from a dark chapter in local history. During the Japanese invasion of Korea in the late 16th century, a local fortress was conquered and the invading forces held a celebration where

Theater & Dance

Over the past 14 years, patrons of the arts in Seoul and countless tourists have stopped by the Chongdong Theater near City Hall for the traditional performance Miso (meaning “smile” in Korean). This month, a new production will open in Gyeongju, the ancient capital of the Silla Dynasty (which lasted from 57 BC – AD 935). Titled “Miso II: Silla, Land of the Gods,” this non-verbal performance illustrates the thousand-year history of Silla with age-old Korean dance and music. The three acts touch upon the divine founding of Silla, the love story of Seondeok and Yongchun, and the Silla Road. Held at the Expo Cultural Center of the Gyeongju World Culture Expo. 7 pm.

Closed Mon. W20,000 – W50,000. misoshilla.com 054-740-3800

dramatic voices to illustrate the passion and fire of Italian songs, or canzone. Yongji Hall at Suseong Artpia in Daegu. 11 am.

W20,000. ssartpia.or.kr 053-668-1800 July 16th

Education & Conferences July 1st - 3rd Int’l Drycleaning & Laundry Expo We don’t recommend that you actually bring your drycleaning to this expo. 1B & 2A Hall at Daegu Exhibition and Convention Center. 10 am - 6 pm.

W3,000. cleanexpo.co.kr 02-3432-4552 July 8th - 10th Marriage Expo with TBC Not only big-scale, this marriage expo is also ecofriendly. 1 & 2A Hall at Daegu Exhibition and Convention Center. 11 am - 8 pm.

W2,000. excodaegu.co.kr 053-429-7955

Lim Jae Beom Concert As one of the members of “I Am a Singer,” a famous music program in Korea, Lim will show the audience the talent he has already displayed on TV. Convention Hall at Daegu Exhibition and Convention Center.

7 pm. W88,000 - W110,000. ticket.interpark.com 1599-2005

Pohang Int’l Fireworks Festival July 28th - 31st

Family & Community

GYEONGSANG

POSCO (the Pohang Iron and Steel Company) singlehandedly raised the town of Pohang to prominence, and it continues to give back to the community with this annual—and outstanding—fireworks show. Games, traditional performances, and other activities (including a badminton tournament and a sand art exhibition) will be held throughout the four days of the festival, but the main events are held on Saturday the 30th. After a parade and some concerts from 6 – 8:40 pm, the actual fireworks show will kick off. This year, teams from China, Australia, and Portugal will be competing to see who can paint the night sky with the most brilliant bursts of light. Events are held around Bukbu Beach, Hyeongsan River Athletic Park, Songdo Beach, and downtown. poscofs.com 054-220-1014 Nanta since it was only featured in Seoul, go and see it now in Gyeongnam. Grand Hall at 3.15 Art Center in Masan. Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun 3 & 7 pm. W15,000 W40,000. 315art.net 055-286-0315

July 2nd

Concerts Ongoing Woori Garak, Woori Munwha (Our Sound, Our Culture) This ongoing event presents a combination of Korean traditional music and various traditional performances. Every Sunday at Mt. Yongdu Park in Busan. 3 pm. Free. bscf.or.kr 051-744-7707

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July 30th “I’m a Musical Actor” Concert Enjoy a musical concert with Park Eun-tae. Muhak Hall at Suseong Artpia in Daegu. 3 pm. 120 min. W30,000. ticketlink.co.kr 1588-7890

Family & Community Ongoing World Confucianism Festival This festival will not only give you a chance to learn about Confucianism but also to experience its forms of artistic expression. Daetagol in Yeongyang-gun. worldcf.co.kr 054-851-7181 Through October 21st Mungyeongsaejae Moonlight Love Trip Twice a month, many enjoyable games and events will be prepared at Mungyeongsaejae. Outdoor Performance Space at Mungyeongsaejae Provincial Park, north of Daegu. Depart at 2:50 pm.

W8,000 - W10,000. mgmtour.co.kr 054-555-2571 July 29th - August 2nd Hamyang Wild Ginseng Festival If you’re ever wanted to taste those strange bulbous roots in the bottles at Namdaemun Market, this is your chance. There will be a cooking contest, conferences and events—all ginseng-related, of course.

Sanglim Park in Hamyang-gun. sansam.hygn.go.kr 055-960-5174

July 16th - 17th Singles: The Musical This romantic comedy was a big hit on the Daehangno musical circuit. In Korean. Nuri Hall at Gimhae Art and Sports Center. Sat 4 & 7 pm, Sun 3 & 6 pm. W30,000. gasc.or.kr 055-320-1251 July 23rd Pagliacci: The Opera This tragic opera about a cuckolded clown is the most famous work by Ruggero Leoncavallo.

Daegu Opera House. 5 pm. 100 min.

W10,000 - W20,000. daeguoperahouse.org 053-666-6000

July 23rd Kim Yeon Woo Concert Also one of the major stars on Korean program “I Am a Singer,” Kim is expected to draw a big crowd. Auditorium in New Building of Daegu Exhibition and Convention Center.

4 & 8 pm. W77,000 - W99,000. ticket.interpark.com 1599-2005

Kim Chang Wan Band Concert in Pohang If you want to see Korea rock out with a psychedelic and dream-like sound, hurry up and get your ticket.

Grand Performance Hall at Gyeongbuk Student Cultural Center in Pohang. 8 pm. 80 min. W25,000 - W45,000. ticketlink.co.kr 054-282-3711 Wiener Staatsoper Ensemble The Wiener Staatsoper Ensemble, consisting of twenty members of the Austrian National Opera Troupe, will present a program of operatic classics. Maru Hall at Gimhae Art and Sports Center. 5 pm. W30,000 - W60,000. gasc.or.kr 055-320-1234 July 12th Tuesday Morning: Matinee Concert These notable singers will use their

July 29th - August 15th Geochang International Festival of Theatre Approximately 15 Korean teams and 5 teams from abroad will be bringing some seriously creative performances to the stage. Suseungdae in Geochanggun. kift.or.kr 055-943-4152

July 8th - August 28th Kids and Beans This exhibit is literally worth a hill of beans. Children can learn to be healthy and creative in this nature-focused exhibit. Yoon Seul Art Museum Exhibition Hall in Gimhae. 10 am - 5 pm. Closed 1st & 3rd Mon. W8,000 - W10,000. gasc.or.kr 055-320-1261 July 22nd - 24th Daegu Fishing & Leisure Products Fair To revitalize the leisure culture in Daegu, fishing goods will be on display and a free medical examination will be offered. 1 & 2A Hall at Daegu Exhibition and Convention Center. 10 am - 6 pm. excodaegu.co.kr 053-429-7955

Sports & Fitness K-League Football July 2nd Sangju vs Daegu at Sangju Stadium 7 pm July 2nd Busan vs Seongnam at Busan Stadium 7 pm July 3rd Ulsan vs Gyeongnam at Ulsan Stadium 7 pm July 9th Daegu vs Busan at Daegu Stadium 7 pm July 9th Pohang vs Daejeon at Pohang Stadium 7 pm July 10th Ulsan vs Jeonbuk at Ulsan Stadium 7 pm July 16th Gyeongnam vs Daejeon at Changwon Stadium 7 pm July 16th Sangju vs Busan at Sangju Stadium 7 pm July 17th Pohang vs Seoul at Pohang Stadium 7 pm July 23rd Busan vs Suwon at Busan Stadium 7 pm July 23rd Sangju vs Jeju at Sangju Stadium 7 pm July 23rd Ulsan vs Jeonnam at Ulsan Stadium 7 pm July 23rd Daegu vs Pohang at Daegu Stadium 7 pm KBO Baseball All Busan games held at Sajik Stadium, home of the Lotte Giants.

12th - 14th vs Hanhwa Eagles 6:30 pm 15th vs LG Twins 6:30 pm 16th - 17th vs LG Twins 5 pm 26th - 28th vs SK Wyverns 6:30 pm 29th vs Doosan Bears 6:30 pm 30th - 31st vs Doosan Bears 5 pm

July 30th - August 1st Samgang Makgeolli Festival Taste makgeolli made the way it was in the Joseon Dynasty. Samgangjumak in Yecheon-gun. worldcf.co.kr 054-851-7182

All Daegu games held at Daegu Field, home of the Samsung Lions.

1st vs Lotte Giants 6:30 pm 2nd - 3rd vs Lotte Giants 5 pm 8th vs Doosan Bears 6:30 pm 9th - 10th vs Doosan Bears 5 pm 15th vs KIA Tigers 6:30 pm 16th - 17th vs KIA Tigers 5 pm 19th - 21st vs Samsung Lions 6:30 pm

July 30th - August 7th Bongwha Euneo Festival Get some euneo (sweetfish) on the line and then slap a fresh filet on the grill. Naeseongcheon in Bongwha-eup, Bonghwa-gun. bonghwafestival.com 054-679-6311

July 24th Gyeongju Bomun Lake Marathon 37.2k (group), 10 k, to depart from Gyeongju Bomun Tour Complex at 7 am.

W20,000 (group W80,000). Register by July 15th. gma1212.org 010-9774-4258

GYEONGSANG DIRECTORY

Gyeongsang Foreigner Assistance Busan Foundation for Int’l Activities bfia.or.kr 051-668-7900 Geoje Foreign Resident Association gfra.net 055-687-9332 Ulsan Global Center 052-229-2810 Ulsan Online ulsanonline.com

Education Ayurveda Yoga Academy Certification course for would-be yoga teachers in Daegu. Sat 10 am – 7 pm.

Call Yatren at 011-9547-5181 Yoga Classes Each 1st and 3rd Sunday from 12:30 – 1:30 pm. Buy the Book Cafe in Daegu. megan.deutsch@gmail. com 010-7794-1218

Open weekends. buythebookcafe@ yahoo.com Café Francesco Italian Italian cuisine and good coffee. Near Rodeo Street.

053-252-9625 Dijon French Up-market French and Mediterranean cuisine. 053-422-2426 Hami Mami’s American One of Daegu’s best brunches. 50m from the US base.

8 am – 10 pm.

053-475-5242

on Haeundae Beach.

051-746-7913 Daegu Ping Bar Great drinks, a pool table, and music upon request. Samdeok Catholic Church. 7 pm - 5 am. withhyk@hanmail.net 053-422-7708 Jinju Soundgarden Behind Gyeongsang National University. soundgarden. cyworld.com, zakkie@hanmail.net 055-753-2248, 010-6478-2248 (owner)

Religious Services Baekangro Church Busan 051-898-3740 Bujeon Church bujeon.org 051-807-3331 Catholic Center Busan bccenter.or.kr 051-441-6403

Hongbeopsa Temple 051-508-3470 Busan busanbuddhism.com/hannarae Hosanna Church Busan hosanna21.com 051-209-0191 Podowon Church Busan 051-333-3736 Shipyungro Church Busan spr.or.kr 051-220-0200 Sooyeongno Church Busan 051-740-4500 Pusan University of Foreign Studies Busan 051-640-3445 Islamic Mosque Busan busanislam.or.kr 051-518-9991 Okpo Joonang Presbyterian Geoje Island 010-2586-7520, 010-3873-1652 Sumgim Presbyterian Church Geoje Island sumgim.org 017-577-3096

Hotels/Accommodations 4 – 5 Star Hotels Busan Lotte Hotel 051-810-1000 Novotel Ambassador 051-743-1234 Seacloud 051-933-1000 Daegu Novotel Ambassador 053-664-1101 Hostels Busan Arpina 051-740-3228 Zen Backpackers 010-8722-1530

2nd Floor Restaurant 3rd Floor Sports Lounge

Restaurants Busan Ganga Indian Opposite Haeundae Beach. ganga.co.kr 051-740-6670

053-423-4048

GYEONGSANG

Gecko’s Western Perched on lovely Haeundae Beach at the Pale de CZ, you can get all of that authentic Western food you’re used to back home, and you’ll find bartenders who know how to mix a real margarita.

051-747-3069 Il Sole Italian Quality food with a great view of Haeundae Beach. 051-747-4253 Kebabistan Russian Uzbeki restaurant serving kebabs, soups and stews.

Busan Station.

051-581-4050 Sunset Lounge American Drinks, Western food and fun delivered next to Haeundae.

051-742-2959 Daegu Berkeley Italian Hof Street. 053-421-8577 Buy the Book Western This bookstore and café is your source for free yoga, theater, and parties. Downtown Daegu.

The Holy Grill Western Owned and operated by Canadians, the Grill provides expats with fantastic sandwiches, burgers, Tex-Mex and breakfast in a chilled-out environment that feels more like a lounge than a burger joint. Move up to the 3rd floor to catch major sporting events.

053-423-4048 Leo Chow Mexican A decent selection of burritos and tacos.

053-255-7111 Maya Indian Gyeongbuk University.

053-214-1916 Samarkland Russian Daegu station.

053-252-4021 Siji Taco Mexican Spicy tacos at competitive prices 053-791-5050 South St. Western Philly cheesesteaks and cold cuts in Suseong-gu. blog. naver.com/southst105 053-768-7867 Gumi Waegook Cook American Gumi’s original foreign-owned and operated restaurant, serving steaks, hamburgers, seafood, pastas, and German cuisine. waegookcook.com 054-444-3775

Bars/Lounges/Pubs Busan Aligote Wines, cheese platters, and excellent service. Haeundae. 6 pm – 3 am. aligote-busan.com 051-731-3322 Basement Open mic nights on Tuesdays and parties galore.

011-9294-2391 Fuzzy Navel Great drinks and great Mexican food as well. 011-1757-6349 The HQ Bar Kyungsung’s only foreignerowned bar with sports and dart games. busankart@yahoo.com Rock ‘n’ Roll House Western-style bar with darts and pool and a great view of Haeundae.

051-742-5553 Sosa Bar A cozy latin bar close to Pusan National University.

051-513-0070 Wolfhound The same classic food and drinks from the Seoul location, but right

10 Magazine July 2011 | 67

Kor ean desti nation

End of the Road, Korea

Words and shots by

Matthew C. Crawford

City life during the hot, steamy Korean summers can be tough, and folks flock to islands and beaches for a weekend getaway. But where can you go to avoid the fleeing city dwellers?

A

mong the all-season escapes in South Korea, the southern tip of South Jeolla province is one of the best.

Indeed, Land’s End (Ttangkkeut, 땅끝) is the farthest spot one can f lee to on the entire peninsula. It’s a charmed region in which a weekend can include finding solitude (and tiny parti-colored frogs) on the peaks at Duryunsan Provincial Park. For your Sunday stroll, you can walk off the rice wine fumes in your head with a trek across Nohwa Island, perhaps

to find yourself at the tail end of the pounding drums, chanting, and eerie wailing of a traditional funeral procession on the main street of Imok-ri.

You’ll also have a chance to browse the many varieties of dried shrimp, anchovy, and seaweed at Land’s End Village and enjoy island-spotting on the upper deck of the Bogil Island ferry. But even all this by no means exhausts the strange and sublime experiences served up in the Land’s End region.

The L ast Vill age

JEOLLA

Korea’s Land’s End is fairly easy to get to and stay in. Land’s End Village (Ttangkkeut Maeul, 땅끝마을) is essentially a concentrated cluster of small motels and minbak (home stays), seafood restaurants, and a pier. To reach the southernmost point, take a walk west along the coast to reach the marker tower; afterward, you may want to ride the monorail up to the viewpoint (adult fare, round-trip: W4,000), or simply take the stairs.

The village can be reached by bus from Mokpo (W5,400), Haenam (W3,950), or Gwangju (W14,300).

Cheap quality accommodation can be found at any of the motels (W20,000), though prices rise in July and August.

Top The waters off the coast of Haenam are rich in laver (seaweed).

Left A seagull’s-eye view of Land’s End Village.

A woman gathering edible seaweed near Land’s End Village.

Right From the pier of Land’s End Village, a path next to the cliff leads to the southernmost point on the peninsula.

68 | 10 Magazine July 2011

JEOLLA CALENDAR Art

T h e L a s t P r o vi n ci a l Pa r k

Duryun Mountain (두륜산) is among the more obscure parks in the country, hence its greatness. There are few boardwalks, railings, stairs, or unorthodox fitness machines, though there is a chair lift and a “cloud bridge” suspended above a precipice. Because it’s so far south, the forests are thick with bamboo groves and wild vines.

Daeheung Temple, 45 minutes from the park entrance, has a remarkable main hall. The temple’s main treasure, though, is its set of 1,000 white jade Buddha figures.

Halfway up the mountain but worth the effort to reach is a well-preserved Buddha relief in the cliffside that dates back to the United Silla era.

Buses run from Haenam to the restaurant lane leading to Bukmireukam on Duryunsan; Mireuk the ticket booth. Entrance for (the Korean name for Maitreya) is the Buddha of the future. adults is W2,500.

(Almost ) the L ast Island

To really get away from it all, follow the path of one of Korea’s greatest versifiers, the sijo poet Yun Seon-do, who retreated to Bogil Island (보길도) following the Manchu invasion of 1636. His classical Korean garden of mighty pines, boulder-strewn ponds, and a truly aged hanok (traditional Korean house) is now the island’s main attraction.

The garden is a 15-minute walk from the main town and port, Cheongbyul Village.

After boosting one’s cultural knowledge, there may still be time for Yesong Beach or one of the two others on the island. It’s a W5,000 taxi ride from Cheongbyul Village to the end of the road and the remote fishing village of Yesong, with its black pebble beach lined with black pine.

With the island-studded crescent of turquoise opening before you and the green peaks looming behind, you may well forget whichever metropolis it was that you were fleeing from.

Ferries to Bogil Island (W8,200) depart from Land’s End Village. Be aware that sailings to Sanyang unload on Nohwa Island, not Bogil Island.

Through August 7th Dochon Shin Yeong-bok Exhibition Taught by many famous artists, Shin Yeong-bok grew up to be a Korean master of Chinese painting of the Southern School. 1 & 2 Exhibit Hall at Main Building of Gwangju City Museum.

9 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. W200 W500. gjfm.gjcity.net 062-613-5346 Through August 21st Like Fire and Wind: Dancer Choi Seung-hui Exhibition Featuring photos of this revolutionary dancer who helped create contemporary Korean dance during the Japanese colonial period. Gwangju Museum of Art. 9 am 6 pm (Wed 9 am - 9 pm). Closed Mon. W200 - W500. artmuse.gwangju.go.kr 062-613-7134 Through August 28th Memorial Exhibition for Buddha’s Birthday Displaying bells, drums, and other instruments used to spread the message of Buddha. Art Hall at the Jeonju National Museum. 9 am - 6 pm (Sat 9 am - 9 pm, Sun 9 am - 7 pm).

Closed Mon. Free. jeonju.museum.go.kr Through September 29th Sagunja Exhibition “Sagunja” is a term referring to the four plants—the apricot, bamboo, chrysanthemum and orchid—which the scholars of the Joseon dynasty admired. Art Museum Hall. 9 am - 6 pm (weekends 9 am - 7 pm). Closed Mon. Free. jeonju.museum. go.kr 063-223-5651~2

Theater & Dance Ongoing Sinpan Norum: 12 Acts This performance, held each Saturday at 4 pm, combines elements of pansori, gutpan, changgeuk, and other traditional Korean art forms. Yewondang at National Center for Korean Folk Performing Area in Namwon. ntmc.go.kr 063-620-2324

July 2nd Narsha Dance Company Performance This group is a gathering of people who didn’t major in dance: these amateurs are just crazy about the art form. Grand Theater at the Suncheon Culture and Art Center. 6:30 pm. Free. scart.or.kr 010-9222-5599 July 5th Charlie’s Magic Factory This family magic show has received numerous awards. Gochang Culture Center. 11 am. Free. culture.gccl.kr 063-560-2322

Concerts Top Yesong Beach, an ideal place to bask in the sun.

Left The well-preserved pavilion in Joseon poet Yun Seon-do’s garden retreat on Bogildo, where he composed The Fisherman’s Calendar.

July 2nd Yun Su-il Band Concert Playing hit songs from pop to rock, this year the band has a fabulous new show to present to concert-goers. Outdoor Performance Stage at Sori Arts Center in Jeonju. 7 pm. 120 min. W44,000 W77,000. sori21.co.kr 1544-0674 Sakhalin City Orchestra Invitation Concert Grand Hall at Chonbuk

July 9th Lee Seung-hwan Concert: “The Regrets” Lee Seung-hwan weaves a fascinating narrative into his performance of his hit songs. Yeonji Hall at Sori Arts Center in Jeonju. 6 pm. 120 min. W77,000. sori21.co.kr 02-578-0262 July 14th IYF Artist Concert IYF (International Youth Fellowship) will perform a highquality concert for young people. Grand Hall at Chonbuk National University Cultural Center in Jeonju. 7 pm. cnucc.chonbuk.ac.kr 063-242-4828 July 23rd Violinist Andreas Buschatz Concert Andreas Buschatz, the concertmaster for the Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra, will be performing Brahms’ Violin Concerto with the Clamu Philharmonic Orchestra.

Moakdang at Sori Arts Center in Jeonju.

7:30 pm. 100 min. W30,000 - W70,000. sori21.co.kr 063-283-2511 Magic Concert This is a great chance to see a fantastic magic art show for free. Geonji Art Hall at Chonbuk National University Cultural Center in Jeonju. 6 pm.

Free. cnucc.chonbuk.ac.kr 010-5165-0215

Family & Community Through July 18th Slow Salt Village Festival The festival is held in the slow city of Shinan.

Jeungdo Taepyeong Salt Pond in Shinan-gun. shinan.go.kr 061-243-2171 Through August 28th Pororo Park Experience Exhibition Cartoon character and adorable penguin Pororo enjoys an astounding amount of popularity with Korean children. 1 Exhibit Hall at Kim Daejung Convention Center in Gwangju. kdjcenter.or.kr 062-417-6021 July 8th - August 28th Discovering Dinosaur Expo Meet the dinosaurs of Korea through this exhibit, which is divided into five exciting sections. With the interactive video presented at the Dino Talk Show, guests can even try to engage in conversation with dinosaurs. 3 Exhibit Hall at Kim Daejung Convention Center in Gwangju.

10 am - 7 pm. W12,000 - W14,000. hellodino.com 02-578-0262 July 13th - 16th Muan Illo Pumba Festival This festival takes visitors back to the age of the itinerant performers and beggars known as “pumba.” Auditorium of Seungdal Cultural Art Center in Muan-gun. koreapumba.co.kr 061-284-7050 July 21st - 24th Mokpo Madang Festival Some of the best theater groups in the country will be heading down to Mokpo for this competition. Yudal Mountain in Mokpo. mtfm.net/v2011 061-270-3225 July 29th - August 2nd Mokpo Ocean Cultural Festival A carnival on the water, a fireworks display, and many more fun summer events will entertain visitors to this southwestern city. Peace Square & Samhak-do in Mokpo. mokpofestival.com 061-270-8441 July 29th - August 4th Jeongnamjin Aqua Festival If you’re ready for some fun in the water, head down to Jangheung-gun on the

10 Magazine July 2011 | 69

JEOLLA

Through November 6th Ariul Arirang Every Saturday and Sunday, the story of a woman and the world’s largest seawall, Ariul, is told.

Ariul Art Hall in front of the 33 Center at the Saemangeum Seawall in Gunsan. 2 pm. 60 min. ariulart.com 063-280-3150

National University Cultural Center in Jeonju. 7 pm. W12,000 - W20,000. cnucc.chonbuk.ac.kr 063-908-5783

JEOLLA CALENDAR

Check Out Muan White Lotus Festival e di t or’ s p ick

Cheonan

southern coast. Events held near the Tamjin River. jhwater.kr 061-860-0380 July 30th - 31st Yeosu International Youth Festival This international exchange program brings young people from various countries to Yeosu to learn from local mentors. Odong Island off the coast of Yeosu. festival.yeosu.go.kr 061-690-7672 July 30th - August 2nd Tamjin River Euneo Festival During the Joseon Dynasty, the residents of Gangjin-gun offered the finest euneo (sweetfish) to the king.

Tamjin River Dunchi Park in Gangjingun. gangjin.go.kr 061-430-5522

The humble but beautiful lotus flower inspires legends— and draws droves of visitors to famous spots in Jeolla Province each summer.

July 15th - August 13th

Family & Community

JEOLLA

In Muan County in Jeollanam-do (South Jeolla Province), local legend has it that a villager once planted twelve lotus seeds in an abandoned reservoir. That night, he dreamed of twelve white cranes which resembled lotus flowers. Taking this as an omen, he took great care of the plants, and today the lake holds more than 30 different species of lotus.

The Hoesan White Lotus Habitat, which now covers more than 330,000 square meters of land, has become the nation’s premier site for viewing these beautiful flowers. Unusually for Korea, the majority of the blooms here are a pale white color— resembling the cranes of the villager’s dream. There are several trails around the lake and boardwalks extending out over the water to let visitors see the flowers up close, as well as an impressive glass-fronted visitor center designed to resemble a lotus flower.

This month is probably the best time to visit Muan, with the Muan White Lotus Festival running from July 15th - August 13th. Visitors will be able to enjoy boat rides around the lake and through the blooms, as well as buying lotus-based handicrafts and tasting a wide variety of lotus-related foods (the delicious lotus ice cream is highly recommended).

If you can’t make it down to Muan, try Deokjin Park in Jeonju, a few hours north. The park is well known for its display of thousands of beautiful pink lotus blooms, which at their peak cover more than half the lake. The flowers are best viewed from either the suspension bridge or the boardwalks running right through the midst of the lotus pool. The blooms and the many colorful dragonflies which also inhabit this popular city-center park make for excellent photographic opportunities.

Getting There

To reach Hoesan White Lotus Habitat, take an express bus to Muan or the KTX train to nearby Mokpo, and then a local bus to the habitat.

Jeonju’s Deokjin Park is adjacent to Chonbuk National University. Ask any taxi driver for “Deokjin Gongweon” (덕진공원).

Words and shots by A n dy C l ay

July 30th - August 7th Gangjin Celadon Festival 90% of Goryeo Dynasty celadon pottery that has been designated as a national treasure was made in Gangjin. Goryeo Celadon Doyoji in Gangjin-gun. gangjinfes.or.kr 061-430-3194

Education Ongoing GIC Talks Take advantage of English lectures by professors, writers, and diplomats that promote communication and mutual understanding among Koreans and international residents. Topics include a wide range of subjects such as culture, history, politics, and art. Gwangju International Center. Sat 2:30 – 4 pm.

Closed holidays. gic.or.kr 062-226-2733 July 1st - 3rd Franchise & Investment Business Exhibition With the theme “Gwangju and Jeonnam Becoming Rich,” this expo will work on promoting employment opportunities in the local economy.

3 Exhibition Hall at Kim Daejung Convention Center in Gwangju. 10 am 6 pm. W2,000. fitex.kr 062-236-0080

Sport & Fitness KBO Baseball KIA Tigers at Gwangju Stadium 1st vs Hanhwa Eagles 6:30 pm 2nd - 3rd vs Hanhwa Eagles 5 pm 5th - 7th vs Nexen Heroes 6:30 pm 12th - 14th vs Doosan Bears 6:30 pm 26th - 28th vs Samsung Lions 6:30 pm 29th vs Nexen Heroes 6:30 pm 30th -31st Nexen Heroes 5 pm KIA Tigers at Gunsan Stadium 5th - 7th vs Nexen Heroes 6:30 pm K-League Football July 3rd Jeonbuk vs Seoul at Jeonju World Cup Stadium at 7 pm July 9th Gwangju vs Gangwon at Gwangju World Cup Stadium at 7 pm July 10th Jeonnam vs Suwon at Gwangyang Stadium at 7 pm July 16th Gwangju vs Jeonbuk at Gwangju World Cup Stadium at 7 pm July 17th Jeonnam vs Daegu at Gangyang Stadium at 7 pm July 24th Jeonbuk vs Seongnam at Jeonju World Cup Stadium at 7 pm July 8th - 13th World Taekwondo Culture Expo In addition to the taekwondo competitions, you can enjoy some of the best Honam (Jeolla Province) dishes and traditional performances. Firefly Stadium in Muju. wtcexpo.net 063-250-8350 July 30th - 31st Yeonggwang Mud Flat Marathon Festival 5k, 8k, to depart from Baebawi Seaside in Yeonggwang at 9 am.

Register by July 18th. www.mudrun.net 061-375-1201

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JEOLLA PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance Gwangju International Center gic.or.kr 062-226-2733 Gwangju Blog gwangjublog.com Inside Jeonju insidejeonju.com The Jeonju Hub thejeonjuhub.com

Religious Services Antioch Presbyterian Church Jeonju andiok.kr 063-274-3228 Iri Joongang Church Iksan 0 63-851-4311 Musang Temple Muan-gun 042-841-6084

Museums Gochang Dolmen Museum 9 am – 5 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, teens W2,000, children W1,000. gcdolmen.go.kr 063-560-2576 Iksan Jewel Museum 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. jewelmuseum.go.kr 063-859-4641 Jeonju Oriental Medicine Cultural Center 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. hanbangcenter.com 063-232-2500 Jeonju Traditional Alcohol Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Free. urisul.net 063-287-6305 Jeonju Traditional Culture Center jt.or.kr 063-280-7045 Mokpo Ceramic Livingware Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. doja.mokpo.go.kr 0 61-270-8480 Mokpo Natural Museum 9 am – 6 pm.

Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. museum.mokpo.go.kr 061-274-3655 Mokpo Ceramic Livingware Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. doja.mokpo.go.kr 061-270-8480

Hotels/Accommodations Gwangju Youth Hostel 062-943-4378 Ramada Plaza Gwangju ramadagwangju.com 062-717-7000

Radio TBS eFM Gwangju FM 98.7 US Armed Forces Network Gunsan

AM 1440/FM 88.5 Gwangju FM 88.5

Restaurants/Supermarkets First Nepal Restaurant firstnepal.com 062-225-8771 Tequilaz Gwangju’s first Mexican cantina serves up your south-of-the-border favorites with magical margaritas and, of course, killer tequilas. tequilaz.com Underground Grocers Gwangju This foreigner-run food shop has those hardto-find cheeses, taco shells and other delicacies you crave.

062-232-2626

Live Music Venues Bars/Lounges/Pubs Art & Travel Cafe Jeonju Open mic nights every Wednesday from 9 pm.

Facebook group, 011-9437-0208 Deepin Jeonju Popular expat bar with Texas Holdem on Sundays.

019-9646-1028 Led Zeppelin Art Space Jeonju Hosts underground bands both expat and Korean. cafe.daum.net/k250073

018-607-6321 Radio Star Jeonju Under the 7-11 in Junghwasan-dong. 011-9444-9609 Speakeasy Gwangju The fun never stops at this fantastic bar owned and operated by honest Irishman Derrek Hannon.

010-4713-3825 San Antonio Latin Bistro Suncheon Suncheon surprises with this Latinthemed restaurant and bar. Facebook group, pyroz@hotmail.com 061-724-2234

Ad space donated by 10 Magazine

JEJU CALENDAR Performances

DIS C OV ER Y Ongoing

not both? Since ages past, Jeju residents have stretched out on the steaming hot black sands to improve their blood circulation. Samyang Black Sand Beach. culture.jeju.go.kr 064-728-4711

Sport & Fitness July 1st - 3rd Jeju International Surfing Contest And you thought there wasn’t any surfing in Korea! Admire the beautiful scenery of Jeju’s sweeping beaches as you participate in this cool contest. Jungmun Beach at Seogwipo. W40,000 - W50,000. cafe.daum.net/Waveclub 010-7275-2725

Tofu Burgers and Meditation

Jump In its second decade, this popular martial arts comic show shows no signs of slowing. Halla Art Hall in Cheju Halla College. Tue - Fri 8 pm; Sat 4, 8 pm; Sun, holiday 8 pm. Closed Mon. W40,000 W50,000. hijump.co.kr 064-749-0550

Think of an idea for a museum and Jeju probably has it. Case in point: the Seon Cultural Experience Center.

JEJU ISLAND

Also known as the meditation museum or the museum of life, the center is one of the more unique establishments to pop up on this subtropical island.

What makes it unique? First, the architecture. The white dome-shaped yurts are unlike anything you’ll find on Jeju.

Second, the location. It’s off the beaten path, almost hidden among farm fields, yet near popular attractions like Sanbangsan and the Tansan Oncheon jjimjilbang. Third, the subject matter: Suseonjae.

According to the Suseonjae web site (suseonjae.org), “Suseonjae offers an advanced program that covers all basics of meditation, breathing, well-living and spiritual evolution.”

The museum itself is tiny yet spacious and features displays to explain the Suseonjae philosophy. In the middle of the dome lies a meditation room with small white pillows and headsets programmed with guided meditations on love.

There’s also a coffin in which you can lay and contemplate your life and death. (Warning: if you’re bothered by new-age philosophy, this museum is not for you.)

Once you’ve finished wandering around the museum, you’ll definitely want to head next door to Cafe Seon. The limited menu features delicious vegetarian and organic items. Try the tomato smoothie and a tofu burger topped with freshly picked lettuce from their greenhouse.

Getting There

If you have a car or scooter, take the 1132 road and turn toward Tansan Oncheon. Once you’ve passed the jjimjilbang, keep driving down a narrow road until you see the white domes on your right. If you don’t have your own transportation, take a bus to Sanbangsan, get a taxi, and ask the driver to call the cafe for directions. seonmuseum.org 064-792-7911 Words and shots by A ng e l a Jacobus

72 | 10 Magazine July 2011

Nanta Nanta, the non-verbal performance that got started ten years ago, is a feast for the ears that turns ordinary kitchen pots and pans into a rhythm section. Jeju Media Center in Jeju City (064-727-7800). 90 min. Sun 8 pm, Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 pm, 8 pm. W40,000 - W50,000. nanta.i-pmc.co.kr 1544-1555 Ryu “Artcal” Get ready for a creative performance that brings together Korean dance and traditional martial arts for a hybrid of art and musical called an “artcal.”

Convention Hall at Jeju Tourism College.

2 & 5 pm. 60 min. W20,000 - W30,000. ticket.interpark.com 064-759-1214

JEJU ISLAND Restaurants Bagdad Cafe Indian. Delicious, authentic Indian food made from local ingredients in a gorgeous atmosphere. Near City Hall in Jeju City.

064-757-8182 Dom Jang Japanese. Spectacular sushi in several locations all over the island.

The best atmosphere is in Jungmun.

064-738-2550

Island Gecko’s Western. A varied menu of terrific Western food, plus maybe the best cocktails and service on the island.

The BBQ nights every weekend will blow you away with ribeye steak, sausages, and more for only W19,000. Jungmun. geckosterrace.com 064-739-0845 The Plate This modern bistro serves up a great American-style hamburger along with other Thai dishes. 064-746-8008 Zapata’s Mexican. Find it behind Burger King near City Hall in Jeju City. 0 64-722-3369

Theme Park

July 8th - 10th Monte Cristo: The Musical Adapted from the famous novel, this production astonishes with its presentation of love, fear, ruin, and revenge. In Korean. Jeju Arts Center in Jeju City. 3 & 7:30 pm.

160 min. W66,000 - W110,000. ticket.interpark.com 1588-0766 July 23rd - 24th Magic Cinderella: Children’s Musical Have fun with this adaptation of Cinderella which draws upon surprising magical tricks and beautiful melodies. Jeju Arts Center in Jeju City. 60 min. W20,000. 11 am & 1 pm & 3 pm. ticket.interpark.com 1544-1718

Family & Community July 2nd - 3rd Ppungppungi Bubble Show Your kids will have a blast dancing and blowing bubbles along with the adorable Ppungppungi.

Jeju Arts Center in Jeju City. 11 am - 5 pm (Sun 2 pm - 5 pm). 60 min. W10,000 W30,000. arts.jeju.go.kr 1544-7579 July 29th - 31st Chuja Island Gulbi Festival Caught in the clear sea around Jeju island, these gulbi (yellow corvina) are some of Chuja Island’s finest products. Chuja Island is located halfway between Jeju and the mainland. culture.jeju.go.kr 064-728-4311 Samyang Black Sand Seaside Festival The beach or the sauna? Why

Kimnyoung Maze Park The challenge is the thrill of the search and the reward the taste of success in ringing the bell!

San 16, Kimnyoung-ri, Gujwa-eup, Jejusi, Jeju-do. jejumaze.com 064-782-9266

NETWORKING CALENDAR E dited by J i s u n M oo n and dav i d carru t h

Photos of the Queen’s Birthday Ball, organized by BASS (the British Association of Seoul) and held at the Grand Hyatt Hotel in Seoul on Saturday, May 28th.

Wednesday, June 29th AMCHAM Korean Speaking Networking Night Ritz-Carlton Seoul, The Garden. 6:30 - 9 pm.

Members W59,000, non-members W69,000.

RSVP to amchamrsvp@amchamkorea.org or call at 02-6201-2200. amchamkorea.org

Thursday, June 30th CanCham Canada Day Party Grand Hyatt, Poolside JJ Garden. 6:30 pm - 9 pm. Price TBA. canchamkorea.org Thursday, June 30th EUCCK Monthly Luncheon Grand Hyatt. 12 pm - 1:30 pm. Members W60,000, non-members W80,000. Confirm your attendance to Ms. Yang at 02-725-9887 or eupr@eucck.org by the 28th.

Wednesday, July 27th BIWA Coffee Morning Held on the 4th Wednesday of each month.

Starbucks, Pale d’ CZ building. 9:30 - 11:30 am. biwa-korea.com leemalhya@yahoo.co.kr

Thursday, July 14th FKCCI Café du Commerce Join and network in an informal and French atmosphere and enjoy a French-style buffet along with a selection of French wines.

Novotel Ambassador Gangnam.

6:30 pm - 8:45 pm. W24,000. fkcci.com

Wednesday, July 27th SIWA’s Working Women’s Network Details TBA. Contact michellefarnsworth@live.com.

Tuesday, July 19th ANZA Monthly Global Cafe Held every 3rd Tuesday at Grand Hyatt. 10 am. Members W10,000, non-members W15,000. Register online anzakorea.com Tuesday, July 19th BASS Catch Up Coffee Newcomers are most welcome to join and pick up tips from other members.

10 am - 12 pm. The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, Itaewon. Please RSVP for this event at britishseoul.com.

ANZA

Australian & New Zealand Association of South Korea AMCHAM American Chamber of Commerce BASS British Association of Seoul BIWA Busan Int’l Women’s Association CanCham Canadian Chamber of Commerce in Korea EUCCK European Union Chamber of Commerce in Korea FKCCI French Chamber of Commerce and Industry in Korea SIWA Seoul Int’l Women’s Association

To list your event, contact David Carruth at calendar@10mag.com or 02-3447-1610 10 Magazine July 2011 | 73

NETWORKING CALENDAR

Wednesday, June 29th SIWA’s Working Women’s Network CasAntonio in Itaewon, Seoul. 7 – 9:30 pm.

Pay for your dinner and drinks, plus a W10,000 participation fee for non-members.

RSVP by June 28th to michellefarnsworth@ live.com. siwapage.com

Thursday, July 7th SIWA Newcomers’ Meeting A great chance to get to know more about the organization and the city of Seoul. Seoul Club. 10 am. W10,000. siwapage.com

Definitely Maybe Words by A da m Boot h e , I llustration by Pat r ick Volz

M

y girlfriend has a fear of com mit ment. She never gives me a straight answer.

Nothing is ever one hundred percent with her. When I ask her about her plans for the week, she only gives me a vague approximation, a clue as to what she might be thinking. She never speaks with direct certainty. It’s always maybe this or maybe that. I’m all for a little mystery to add to the romance, but I’m a dense guy. I need some help. I only assume that she still likes me because she keeps calling and showing up at my place.

I notice the same thing when I talk to my students. At the start of class, I’ll ask where so-and-so is. “Maybe she is in the bathroom,” they tell me. Maybe, huh?

Well, if you say “maybe,” you haven’t really told me anything. It’s just a coin flip. While it’s true that she may be in the bathroom, it’s just as true that she may be on the moon, or lurking in the shadows, waiting to strike. I have no way of knowing from this limited information.

I try again. “Is she coming to class today?” They smile back. “Yes.” And then it comes, like an afterthought. “Maybe.”

74 | 10 Magazine July 2011

Blast, foiled again. Clearly, I’m not getting anywhere.

I thought the whole goal of language was to pass along ideas. One person has a thought, makes some noise, and other people can magically have the same thought.

Communication is actually beautiful in its simplicity.

Korean culture is high-context, so there’s less reliance on speaking. The things that are not said are just as important as the things that are. And it works for them.

Everyone seems to know what is going on without anyone mentioning it explicitly.

Everyone knows but me, because I’m not smart enough to pick up on all of the clues.

I need all information spelled out, written down and repeated. With all the maybes in play, it feels like every moment is a surprise party waiting to happen. I get information on a need-to-know basis. Not knowing what is going to happen next is more annoying than exciting.

All of this confusion forces me to ask, “Maybe-yes or maybe-no?” several times a day. And yes, it’s not really a big issue. But it takes a few extra seconds of my day, and these are seconds that could be spent doing

something more productive, like wiping mayonnaise off my pizza.

The thing that bothers me the most about the abundance of maybes in Korea is the way that I have adopted it into my own speech. Exposure to Korean has not improved my Korean as I hoped it would.

Instead, it has deproved my English. See? I just typed “deproved.” That is how bad it’s getting.

I catch myself saying “maybe” in situations when I have no doubt. I answer yes/ no questions with maybe. I start sentences with maybe. And you know what? No one in Korea seems to mind. I think that just might be fantastic.

I have embraced the maybes. Sprinkling maybes into conversation pushes out all responsibility for what I say. I can’t be held accountable for my opinions, criticisms, or advice. I don’t have to stand behind anything. Because of the large shadow of doubt, no one could see me if I did. Using “maybe” puts distance between what is said and who says it.

The beauty about always saying “maybe” is that you never actually have to say anything. Maybe that is a good thing.