10 Magazine June 2011 by 10 Media

Art • Theater • Concerts • Film • Community • Fitness • Dine & Drink • Nightlife • TRAVEL

Korea awaits! • june 2011 VOL. 3 NO. 9

Printed using 100% soy ink.

외국인의 한국생활 노하우

june 2011 vol. 3 No. 9 4 From the Editor / Shot of Korean

Nationwide Calendar

piz z a at Tr e v i a

38 Movies Thor, Cave of Forgotten Dreams, and Nowhere to Hide

6 Contributors 8 Letters / Blog of the Month / Korea by the Numbers

39 TV The Greatest Love Conquers All on MBC 40 Music Eagles, Neon Bunny, North Mississippi Allstars,

9 Reader’s 10

10 10 Questions Kim Youngna, Director of the National Museum of Korea

Books Griftopia

41 Tech A Free Market for Mobiles

Regional Calendar 42 Seoul Restaurant Review Chaugi

12 History Bridge Over the River Han

44 Seoul Editor’s Pick Art Listings

14 Taste of Korea Ramen

59 Chungcheong Discovery High Quality, Lower Garden

16 In the Kitchen Making Cannolis by Hand

60 Korean Destination Jumunjin: Raw Fish and Relaxation

18 Expat Expertise Putting a Premium on Your Health

63 Gyeongsang Discovery Scuba Adventures

20 Dine & Drink The Story of Soju

69 Jeolla Discovery Secret Island Paradise

22 Korean Destination Jeju on the Flip Side

70 Jeju Discovery Foreigner-Friendly Guesthouse

30 Hotel & Resort News 32 Expat News

68 Jeolla Discovery Gwangju’s Kunsthalle

The Best of the West 24

Floating island on the Han River

34 Gastronomic News 35 Newcomers 36 Locations with 10 72 Happy Ending

Burgers, pizza, and wings—perhaps they’re not quite the greatest inventions of the Western mind (those, of course, would be baseball, nuclear power, and sliced bread), but they are some of the finest and greasiest down-home foods that expats in Korea tend to crave. This issue, three of 10’s dedicated foodies have tracked down the absolute best diners dishing out these three classics.

Ben Folds Concert See the Seoul calendar on p. 49.

Taking One More Bite for the Team

’m gonna get an earful this month I know, but I want to tell you something before you start reading—folks, I had ZERO influence in choosing 10 Magazine’s 10 best places for burgers, pizza, and wings in Korea. It wasn’t my job, but I’m ecstatic with the list that we got. We enlisted the help of three wonderful contributors (Nicole Hajdas, Jyoung-ah Kim, and Joe McPherson) who came up with some great lists. I know you think your burger (or pizza or wing) place is the best and should have ranked higher/made the list/is better than X, etc. So please, let us know about it. I leave it to you to register your opinions and complaints about the articles when they go up on 10mag.com in midJune. We’re happy to hear your input. When we set out to get this month’s cover story ready, we wanted to be sure that we included the places our readers enjoyed the most, so we made our February Reader’s 10 (which was of course conducted in January to make the magazine in February) a survey about where you think “The Best of the West” is. But obviously no voter could have tried every place on the list, so it was time to enlist the expertise of some great palates and send them on a mission to try every location on the list as well as a list of some of the favorites from the Korean blogosphere. And boy did they come through! Despite the rather detrimental effects of eating excessive amounts of the same food over an extended period of time (I think they all gained a few pounds since taking on this assignment, and are happy now that they can eat more leafy greens again), they each visited dozens of places to assess and compare the quality of the great favorites of Western countries. Now admittedly the list is a little Seoul-centric. We wish we

could have avoided that, but we don’t quite have the budget to send writers all around Korea to try burgers—yet! Hopefully, when we t r y t h is endeavor again in a year or two we will, but until then we would love it if people from other parts of the country who read 10 would also register their ideas and comments on 10mag.com. Let’s face it—some of the popular pizza, burger or wing places your Korean friends may take you to often end up being overpriced and/or poor replicas of the original. There’s no doubt in my mind that the popularity of this article will inspire Koreans to try some real, quality wings, burgers, and pizza and their love for these delicacies will grow. That will lead to many more great options for our writers to be forced to try—and perhaps gain more weight in the process. Now that I think about it, we’ll also have to set aside a budget for their gym memberships next time as well. I just can’t have that kind of guilt on my conscience. Steph en R ev er e M anaging E ditor

A Shot of Korean by Stephen Revere

글쎄...

[Geul-sse...] : Well... / Hmm… Quite often you get in a taxi and you don’t really know how far your destination is, right? And in that case the first thing you want to ask is, “How long will it take?” Well, Korean taxi drivers aren’t stupid. They know that if they give you an answer and they’re off by more than five minutes, you’ll be giving them h-e double hockey sticks (it’s a family magazine). So how do they avoid answering? 90% of the time, they use this word, with just the right up-and-down intonation to show that they either don’t know or ain’t tellin’. Then they just stop talking. Guess what? You can use it too!

얼마나 걸릴까요? [Eol-ma-na geol-lil-kka-yo?] - How long should it take? [Geul-sse…] – Well... 글쎄... 뭘 먹고 싶어요? [Mwol meok-go ship-eo-yo?] - What do you want to eat? 글쎄... 은선씨는 뭘 먹고 싶어요? [Geul-sse... Eunseon-ssi-neun mwol meok-go ship-eo-yo?]

Well…. what do you want to eat, Eunsun?*

*This is another example of that very difficult rule for Westerners that you almost never use the pronoun “you” in Korean—you just call people by their name. Check out Survival Korean and Survival Korean: Basic Grammar Skills for more Korean lessons from 10’s Managing Editor, Stephen Revere.

4 | 10 Magazine June 2011

Kobeak Foods is proud to be the exclusive supplier of beef and poultry products to Traveler's Bar & Grill, voted by the readers of 10 Magazine as best burgers and best wings in Korea. We look forward to continuing to work together at both their original Bundang location and at their new Daegu location.

"We are extremely pleased with the quality and service we receive from Kobeak Foods. Having quality meat products is key to the positive reviews we receive from our customers about our food." -Jason Cresswell Owner of Traveler's Bar & Grill

Congratulations to Traveler's Bar & Grill on being voted "Best Burger" and "Best Wings" in Korea by the readers of 10 Magazine

Nicole Hajdas (p. 24) has been living in Seoul for three years after relocating from the USA with her husband Chris. Originally from the Bluegrass State and then the Great Lakes State, she is now exploring and enjoying life in Seoul. Nicole always enjoys exchanging restaurant recommendations with others and rarely misses an opportunity for a culinary experience.

10 S t a f f S p o t l i g h t

Hugh Lee worked at LG Ad as an account executive before moving to New York to study communications design at the Pratt Institute. Foreseeing the financial crisis about to occur in the U.S., he wrapped up his work at a New York ad agency and returned to Korea. Hugh likes the Rolling Stones, Phil Collins, and Mark Knopfler and hates Fascism and cucumbers.

Jyoung-Ah Kim (p. 26) was born and raised in Dallas, Texas, and considers herself a Korean-Texan rather than a Korean-American. She is committed to stopping violence against women and empowering them by volunteering with several non-prof it organizations and events. Being strongly opinionated, she buzzes around the city in her spare time, spouting off critiques on food and restaurants.

Julianne Taylor (p. 16) moved to Seoul in 2009 after living in China, Spain, and Australia. She is the president of the American Women’s Club and an interior designer with Designs Taylor-Made (designstaylormade.com), helping other expats make their temporary homes feel like home. When she’s not helping others redesign their surroundings, she enjoys whipping up goodies in her kitchen for a taste of home.

CEO

Sang-tae Kim sangtaekim@10mag.com Jai-yoon Kim jaiyoonkim@10mag.com Stephen Revere sr@10mag.com David Carruth dc@10mag.com

Executive Editor Managing Editor Assistant Editor General Manager

Kyoung-hee Lim kl@10mag.com

Art Director

Hugh Lee hl@10mag.com Dylan Goldby dg@10mag.com

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Contributors Aaron Allinson, Priscilla Andrade, Michael Berry, Adam Boothe, Kyle Burton, Andy Clay, Fred Dustin, Curtis File, Nickolas Fury, Nicole Hajdas, Kenneth Hopewell, Ciaran Hickey, Angela Jacobus, Kathy Kearns, Jyoung-ah Kim, Angela Lee, Grace Lee, Seul-ki Lee, Sun-kyung Lee, Mike Luedke, Stafford Lumsden, Paul Matthews, Joe McPherson, John Mensing, Charles Montgomery, Ji-sun Moon, Robert Neff, Conor O’Reilly, Anna Orzel, Michael Palmer, Andrew Phelps, Julianne Taylor, David Volodzko, Patrick Volz, Bryce Weibley, Lisa Xing, Soyeon Kimberly Yoon One evening in early April, a burger from the fabled Chili King himself, Kevin Cyr, met its fate at the hands of photographer Dylan Goldby. After putting on a fabulous show with all the twists and turns you would expect from a good performer, and a few unexpected sprouts jumping in from left field, it was devoured at the hands of the merciless photographer.

The views expressed in these articles do not necessarily represent the views of 10 Magazine.

Please Recycle This Magazine

David Volodzko (p. 20) has spent a third of his life in his native home The Bahamas, a third going to school in the States, and a third in various parts of East Asia—notably Japan, South Korea and China. His interests include philosophy, religion, and East Asian cultures and languages. 6 | 10 Magazine June 2011

Lisa Xing (p. 22) is a Canadian who used to call Seoul home. She has just heavy-heartedly left Korea to pursue a career in broadcast journalism back in her other home of Canada. Despite having departed, Lisa still lives vicariously through the myriad photographs she has taken during her short year on the peninsula.

10 Magazine June Vol. 3 No. 9 등록번호: 용산 라 00184 (Registration: Yongsan Ra 00184) Address 서울시 용산구 이태원로 211 한남빌딩 10층 10th floor Hannam Buildling 211 Itaewon-ro, Seoul 140-893 Phone 02-3447-1610 www.10mag.com 10 Magazine is published monthly by 10 Media Inc. © All Rights Reserved.

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H ell o De ar 10 ,

It has been a year since I discovered 10 in Korea. Now I realize that I am familiar with this country, I love/hate it and I have reasons for that, I have already renewed my contract for the second year and I know I might do it again and again and again. Every time I meet a fresh person in Korea, my memory brings me back to the first couple weeks, when I was like a walking question mark: “What is this?” “How much does it cost?” “Is it shampoo or conditioner?” “Where can I find liquid soap?” And the killer—“How to get to Gwanghwamun?” Ever y time I open 10, my memor y brings me back to the first issue of the magazine. I was literally hungry for information about this country, I have reread the first issue so many times, that if you wake me in the middle of the

night, I would tell with no hesitation what particular kind of burgers you can get in a particular restaurant at any subway station which name means nothing to me and I could only guess it is in a big city somewhere in Korea. Or handmade muffins at a cafe I know all details about in a no-detail town neither I am able to spell its name nor do I have a slightest idea of its location. In one year I have traveled the country, read 12 issues of 10 and got some understanding of the culture. And I know how to get to Gwanghwamun to visit a concert I read about in 10. Magdalena Slastushinsky, Seoul It’s hard to imagine a better letter than that Magdalena! We’re glad to hear that you’re enjoying 10, and we hope you’ll re-sign that contract again and again—and keep subscribing to 10 Magazine! 10

Only one letter this month, readers. Let’s get on it in June! Send us an email with your comments - the good, the bad and the ugly—and we’ll be sure to print them. If you’re thinking it, then other people probably are too. Share it with us. We love your feedback! comments@10mag.com

Blog of the Month

Korea by the Numbers

09/15/1963 The day that instant ramen was first produced in Korea.

49 74

the average length in meters of the noodles in a pack of ramen.

3.4

Total servings of ramen eaten in Korea in 2010. Korea was ranked 5th, behind China (1st), Indonesia (2nd), Japan (3rd), and the U.S. (4th).

The price in won of Korea’s first ramen — Samyang Ramen.

billion

Chris in South Korea chrisinsouthkorea.com If you’re trying to discover another side of Korea, there are few resources as helpful as Chris in South Korea. Part travelogue, part photo blog, and part advice column, Chris’s blog serves as a compendium of information on how to get off the beaten track and what to do once there. Originally from Chicago, Chris Backe was living in Lexington, KY, when he decided to teach English in Korea. He started the blog in December 2007 as a way to simplify the process of keeping friends up-to-date on his experiences. From the beginning, he decided to focus on travel, committing to visiting “one new place, event, or festival every week” and sharing his experiences. Three years, one website relocation, and at least two hacks later, he’s still doing it. The highlights of Chris’s blog are his colorful photos and humorous descriptions of unconventional travel destinations, ranging from the Dokdo Museum on Ulleung Island to Busan’s Shinsegae Centum City (the world’s largest department store). If you’re still stuck for inspiration, click on the “Fun Stuff!” tab for a hilarious flow chart that offers customized travel suggestions for your weekend. But there is plenty more there for dedicated readers. Chris welcomes any questions about life in Korea and has in the past dealt with topics as various as investing and bringing kids to Korea. And with plenty of Konglish collections, quizzes, and news article spoofs, the site can keep you entertained even if you never actually take Chris up on his travel suggestions. 8 | 10 Magazine June 2011

Average number of bowls of ramen eaten per Korean in 2010. Korea ranked 1st worldwide, followed by Japan and Thailand.

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THE READER'S 10

What Is the Best Tour, Festival, or Annual Event That You’ve Experienced in Korea?

f there’s one thing that we at 10 Magazine feel that we’re pretty darn good at, it’s keeping our readers informed of what’s happening in Korea each month. And so that naturally got us a little curious. What are the big events that our readers get the most excited about? Is it the film festivals, the rock festivals, or the squid festivals? (Wait, scratch that last one.) Some of the bigger contenders like Seoul Fashion Week and the World DJ Festival didn’t make it on the final list. But the 10 that remain serve as a fairly good rundown of what there is to do in Korea each year. There’s one other thing the list reveals, though most of you probably know it already: the Irish really know how to party.

10. DMZ Tour 9. Haebangchon Music Fest 8. Jarasum Jazz Festival 7. Cherry Blossom Festivals 6. Jeonju Film Festival 5. Busan Int’l Film Festival 4. Global Gathering 3. Boryeong Mud Festival 2. Buddha’s Birthday Parade

1. St. Patrick’s Day Festival Most of the events in last month’s poll only take place once a year, so what do you do if you’re looking for a more regular form of weekend entertainment? One good option is the quality live music to be found at bars and dives in Hongdae, Itaewon, Haeundae, and all across the country. The bands may not be famous and their budgets may not be huge, but they’ve got passion, guts, and a battered drum set to prove it. While the Korean indie bands are definitely worth a listen, what we want to hear about this month is the foreigner side of things. They may not stay in Korea forever, but while they’re here these expat musicians really rock the mike. So here’s this month’s Reader’s 10:

What Is Your Favorite Expat Band in Korea? Head to 10mag.com/readers10 by June 6th to add recommended bands to the open thread. We’ll put these on the final poll, where you can cast your votes from June 7th – June 15th. 10 Magazine June 2011 | 9

10 Qu estions

An Afternoon at the Museum Kim Youngna, Director of the National Museum of Korea I n t e r v i e w by Dav i d C a r r u t h , sh ot s by H u g h L e e

hen the National Museum of Korea was established in 1945, Kim Chewon was its first director, and this year his daughter Kim Youngna was appointed to fill the same position. Over the 65 years that have passed since its founding, the museum has undergone a remarkable transformation. Formerly located in the old Japanese Government-General Building in Gwanghwamun, it is now housed in an imposing structure adjacent to the US military base at Yongsan and is ranked as the sixth largest museum in the world in terms of floor space. One sunny afternoon, Dr. Kim met with 10 Magazine to talk about recent developments at the museum.

10 10 Magazine June 2011

1. Your father, Kim Chewon, was the director of the museum during the Korean War. What happened to the museum during all of the fighting? When the North Korean forces first captured Seoul, they tried to remove the museum’s collection, but the staff managed to delay the transfer until UN forces retook the city after the Incheon landing. My father had a feeling that the North Koreans would be back soon and contacted Eugene Knez, an officer at the American embassy, for help. Mr. Knez was able to secure a US military train, which was used to transport the museum’s valuables and staff south to Busan. The collection was loaded on the train late at night to avoid causing panic. Just a month after the move was complete, North Korean forces reoccupied Seoul. 2. What important lessons did you learn from your father? My father became the director at the age of 36, right after liberation from Japan. At the time, there weren’t a lot of museum experts, so he spent a few months in America, studying English and visiting different museums. He had a very international mindset. Later, he sent many of his staff abroad to study, and some of them later became directors of this museum. My father showed me the importance of training the next generation and studying abroad 3. Like your father, you also studied abroad. Where did you go for your university studies? My father was a visiting lecturer at Muhlenberg College, a Lutheran university in Allentown, Pennsylvania. I accompanied him there and enrolled in the undergraduate program. My older sister was studying art history at the time, and I followed her example by taking classes on the history of Western art, the Renaissance, and the like. That’s when I remember thinking, “This is what I really want to study.” After completing my undergraduate coursework, I enrolled at Ohio State University and completed a Ph.D. in Art History, with an emphasis on 19th – 20th century art. 4. How does your graduate work in Western art history aid you in your work at a Korean museum? While I was in the graduate program, I took a number of courses on museum studies. Through these classes, I was able to visit various museums and interview the directors. I also served as a research assistant at the university gallery, where I learned how to set up exhibits and manage the collection, along with other skills.

5. What other experience do you have with directing museums? I was previously the director of the Duksung Women’s University Museum and the Seoul National University Museum. One exhibit that I remember from this time was “Artists on Journey,” which I organized for SNU in 2004. The point of this exhibit was to show how travel can be a turning point for artists. In the West, you have classic examples like Dürer crossing the Alps into Italy or Matisse leaving Paris for southern France. The exhibit showed how travel has influenced Korean artists from the Joseon period through the present. 6. How have you been promoting the National Museum of Korea on the world stage? In general, we’re organizing exchange exhibits with other countries. This year we’re working with Sydney’s Powerhouse, we have arrangements with Philadelphia and LA County in 2014, and Paris in 2016. The museum is also a member of ICOM (the International Council of Museums), will be the chair of ASEMUS (Asia-Europe Museum Network) starting this year, and will host the general assembly of the International Committee of the Blue Shield this November. 7. What is the ratio of Koreans to foreigners at the museum? Currently, about 5% of visitors to the museum are foreigners. That may sound small, but you have to remember that a large percentage of visitors here are composed of students on field trips. If you remove them from the calculations, 10% of general visitors are foreigners. 8. Many of the artifacts on display at the museum are hard to appreciate without explanations. Do you plan to provide more English labels? At the Metropolitan in New York, you can hang up a famous oil painting, add an explanation in several languages, and leave it up for years and years. It’s not the same here. Many of our paintings are sensitive to light and have to be rotated out every few months, meaning we have to change the labels more often. The process of preparing these materials in English is extremely timeconsuming. This is a problem that we are still dealing with, but even if there are not detailed translations for every label, we hope to provide an abstract of the exhibit on the panel in English. In the meantime, we encourage our visitors to take advantage of the free English tours at 10 and 11 am and 2 and 3 pm. 9. What parts of the permanent exhibit do you recommend to foreign visitors? First of all, the celadon pottery has long been the museum’s most well-known holding. Korea became widely known in part thanks to its world-famous celadon pottery during the Koryo Dynasty the name by which it is still known today. Another interesting part of the collection is the Pungsokhwa (풍속화), paintings about the everyday life of people during the Joseon Dynasty. Some painters of note include Kim Hong-do and Sin Yun-bok. Finally, we have some excellent Buddhist sculptures. 10. What upcoming exhibits do visitors of the museum have to look forward to? We’re currently focusing on introducing foreign cultures to our visitors so they can have a chance to see amazing artifacts without actually leaving the country. In recent years, we had the Greece and Inca exhibits, and we’re currently hosting “Princely Treasures: European Masterpieces 1600 - 1800” with pieces on loan from the Victoria and Albert Museum in England. Coming up this winter, we’re planning an exhibit of religious paintings from the Vatican Museum. We also have regular special exhibits focusing on Korean and Asian art, like the Secret of Portraits exhibit starting this September, which will feature pieces by Korean, Japanese, and Chinese artists. 10 Magazine June 2011 | 11

history

Bridge Over the River Han

Two days after the Korean War began, a disastrous decision to blow up the Han River Bridge resulted in the loss of hundreds of lives.

or many people, June 25th, 1950, started out as a dreary Sunday morning, a time for relaxation and worship, but before the morning was over Korea was at war. This war would eventually involve people from twenty nations (including North and South Koreans) and would result in civilian and military casualties numbering in the millions. Many of the casualties were caused by desperate measures— perhaps one of the most notorious of these was the destruction of the Han River Bridge. The North Korean attack had completely surprised the unprepared South Korean military, and the Communist forces quickly advanced toward Seoul. The South Korean government evacuated Seoul on June 27th and on the following day ordered the Han River Bridge to be destroyed so as to hamper the North Korean advance. Except for small ferries, the bridge had provided the only means of crossing the Han River.

10 Magazine June 2011

Thousands of people—men, women and children—crowded the bridge with all their worldly belongings in carts or in bags on their backs in a desperate attempt to escape the fighting. Hundreds of them were killed when the bridge, without warning, was destroyed. An American war correspondent who survived the explosion described what it was like: Lit only by the glow of the burning truck and occasional headlights, [it] was apocalyptic in frightfulness. All of the soldiers in the truck ahead of us had been killed. Bodies of the dead and dying were strewn over the bridge, civilians as well as soldiers. Confusion was complete. With the cries of the wounded and the dying forming the background, scores of refugees were running pell-mell off the brigde and disappearing into the night beyond. It was a horrible tragedy and one that someone had to be held responsible for. Col. Choe Jang-sik, the engineer in charge of the bridge, was executed by firing squad two months later for his role in the debacle. Unfortunately, Choe was nothing more than

Words BY Robert Neff

a scapegoat and had actually been responsible for saving lives by trying to clear the bridge before it was destroyed. And while the destruction of the bridge may have hampered the North Korean advance, it did not stop it. The North Korean tanks were able to use the adjacent railroad bridge that had somehow been overlooked. It was one of the few things that escaped destruction. Photographs from this period demonstrate just how much of the country was destroyed. Not only the infrastructure, buildings and farms were destroyed, but so too were families. Children lost their parents either through death or separation and were forced to fend for themselves on the streets. Some were lucky enough to be taken in and adopted, but many were not. Starvation ruled, and if not for the efforts of the UN many people would have perished for want of food. Even after the war, it was not uncommon to see people digging through the trash. It wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t until July 27th, 1953, that the Armistice Agreement was signed, ending the fighting, but not the war. As no peace treaty has been signed, the two Koreas are still technically at war, and the recent sinking of the South Korean warship Cheonan and the unprovoked attacks on Yeonpyeong Island only serve to reinforce this point. Previous page: Photos from the collection of Robert Neff; left and top: American soldiers near the Han River, 1952; bottom: American soldiers headed towards the Yalu River (Amnok River), 1950 This page: Photos from the collection of Fred Dustin; from top: Homeless man in Seoul looking for food, 1952; Destroyed bank, 1952

10 Magazine June 2011 | 13

A TASTE OF KOREA

Shot by Dylan Goldby

Ramen 라면

Noodle Nirvana W o rds by C i a r a n H i c k e y e xecutive chef of the w seoul wa l k e r h i l l

Boiling water and a bunch of dried noodles provide the canvas for your culinary creativity.

ntil a few years ago, I never realized the cult status enjoyed by ramen in this part of the world. Books, clubs, blogs, websites, smart phone apps and even a museum are dedicated to the enjoyment and glorification of this humble noodle. Japan is the spiritual home of ramen, of course, where they use Chukamen noodles, but this month we are focusing our attention on its Korean counterpart. Ramen, which appears to have originated in China as a dish of noodles in pork bone broth, is essentially a bowl of wheat noodles in soup or broth. The additional ingredients—meat, vegetables, and eggs—are there to balance out these two. Here in Korea, ramen can run toward hot and spicy, of course, but not always. A local style of Korean ramen is developing with both seafood and meat varieties, occasionally miso based. Let’s take a look at the three major parts: noodles, broth and toppings. The ramen noodles sold here usually come with some form of seasoning included, but this is only if you don’t want to make

10 Magazine June 2011

your own. They are generally sold in dried form, but I have seen the fresh article for sale. When shopping for ramen noodles, I’m afraid you are on your own, as the sheer variety is too daunting to even try pointing out some of the different types. As a rule of thumb, go for a simple packet without the added powders and dried ingredients. The broth for ramen is up to the chef: pork broth, chicken broth or broth made with dried fish or seaweed. The best I have ever had was a cloudy broth of chicken which tasted like New York-style kosher chicken soup; it was amazingly rich and hearty. The other one I tried was a mix of chicken and dashi broth; the smokiness of the dashi was beautiful, like a well-made consommé. You are free to add more soy or chili oil to the noodles in most restaurants. Last are the toppings. Actually some of the things that set the domestic version apart are ingredients that I would never have considered Korean by any stretch of the imagination: spam, hot dogs, and processed American cheese, of all things! My best experience was pork neck that was kept simmering in the broth. As you ordered, they would remove it and slice off a few pieces to put on top of the ramen. Hard-boiled eggs, chopped scallions and dried nori are the usual toppings here in Korea, but as I mentioned be prepared to see a lot of new and interesting versions of this classic dish popping up as chefs keep getting bolder and more creative.

N e ti z e n ’ s P i c k s These two franchises have dozens of branches throughout the country.

Do You Wanna Try It? 맛좀 볼래? The name says it all: if you want to try some Korean-style fusion ramen, this is the place. They make the sauces themselves to create unique flavors. Bring a handkerchief to prepare for the Great Tear Gas Ramen (그레이트 최루탄 라면), quite possibly the spiciest ramen in Korea. wannatry.com 1600-5778 Teumsae Ramyeon 틈새라면 The first humble shop opened up in Myeongdong in 1981, and since then it has branched out not only across Korea but also into other countries such as the U.S. and China. Among a number of tasty ramen varieties, one that stands out is ppalgye tteok (빨계떡). Watch out for its spicy kick. teumsae.com 02-2285-6197 They also produce instant ramen, Teumsae Ramen Ppalgyetteok, which can be found at a convenience store near you.

IN THE KITCHEN Pastry Chef Yeonsil Jung guides Julianne Taylor as she tackles these tricky but rewarding pastries.

oly cannoli! Most souther n women pride themselves on being able to make a delicious cake or fruit cobbler at some point in their lives—no doubt from a recipe handed down from grandmother to mother to granddaughter. I recently discovered something was missing from my flourdusted, dog-eared “family favorites” cookbook—the decadent cannoli. When the good folks at La Bocca in Itaewon invited me to learn how to make authentic cannolis, I jumped at the chance. Assisting me with my mission is Pastry Chef Yeonsil Jung. After receiving her bachelor’s degree in cooking and food styling from Hyejeon College, Yeonsil found her interests lay on the sweeter side of her palate. She studied sugar craft and French pastry at Lenôtre and fell in love with Italian desserts after a trip to Italy. Her education complete, Yeonsil took up her position as the Pastry Chef at La Bocca. All right: time for dessert! As I put on my toque, my first thought is, “Great—where shall I grab the ready-made cannoli shells?” Yeonsil has other plans. I soon realize we are making authentic cannolis from scratch. Mamma mia! As Yeonsil started weighing the ingredients

to make the shells, I see a bucket of metal tubes on the counter. This, I learn, is how cannolis originally got their name, since “cannoli” means “little tubes.” The dough is actually wrapped around these metal tubes and fried to a golden crisp, ready for one of dozens of different fillings. This time, we are making what is considered the traditional filling, a simple concoction of ricotta cheese and powdered sugar. Yeonsil carefully measures out all of the ingredients to make the cannoli shells, and I’m amazed at the surprise ingredient of Marsala wine. I’m told that it helps the dough cure and gives it a very distinct sweet smell. As we start rolling the dough onto the metal tubes, I remember that my kitchen is not equipped with these little gadgets. I’m told that Bangsan Bakery Market (near Euljiro 4-ga Station in Seoul) will sell the little tubes that you need to make the shells. No time to tackle this part of the job? La Bocca will sell large batches (50 or so) of ready-made shells into which you can insert your filling of choice: just perfect for your next party. After an hour or so of rolling, frying, and mixing, Yeonsil and I complete our batch of cannolis. The crunchy shell of these two-bite wonders is filled with a rich and creamy concoction of ricotta cheese and powdered sugar. We wipe the sweat off our foreheads and get ready to sink our teeth into these little Italian treasures. Our eyes meet in that first bite, and we nod in silent agreement. Pure heaven!

Making Cannolis by Hand W o rds by J u l i a n n e Tay l o r , sh ot s by H u g h L e e

Chef Yeonsil Jung’s Cannolis Sicilian-style fried pastries with ricotta cheese filling The yield depends on the size of the dough cutter. 9cm in diameter will result in 105 cannolis, while 6.5cm will make about 80.

Pa s t ry

• • • •

400g plain flour 20g corn starch 80g white granulated sugar 4g salt

• 44g unsalted butter • 50L Marsala wine • 150L warm water

2 Pour into bowl, cover, and refrigerate for two hours.

• 75g powdered sugar

4 Use a round cutter to cut out circle shapes in dough. Roll one circle onto each metal tube—making sure not to roll it too tightly.

R i c o t ta F i ll i n g

• 250g ricotta cheese

1 Cream butter and sugar using hand or standing mixer. Add corn starch to warm water to dissolve. Add this and all other ingredients to mixer.

3 After two hours, roll out the dough to a thickness of 2mm on a very lightly floured surface.

5 Wet the edges that overlap with a little water to ensure a good seal. 6 Heat vegetable oil to 185-190˚ C. Fry dough in oil making sure to constantly turn the tubes while cooking. 7 When the dough turns golden brown, remove from heat and drain on paper towels. Once cooled, give the dough a bit of a twist to loosen it from the tube. 8 Make ricotta filling by mixing ingredients together. 9 Fill pastry decorating tube with filling and pipe into cannoli shells. 10 Decorate exposed filling on the ends with crushed nuts, candied fruit, etc. La Bocca tops theirs with crushed pistachios on one end and tiny chopped candied orange on the other. Bellisimo! 16 | 10 Magazine June 2011

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Ex pat Ex per tise

Putting a Premium on Your Health W o rds by A a r o n A ll i n s o n

Language difficulties aside, Korean health insurance provides quality service at a fraction of the cost. Although health care isn’t one of the first things that come to mind when you say Korea, maybe it should be. The Wall Street Journal recently cited the South Korean system as one of the five most effective systems in the world. Korea spends the fourth-lowest amount on health as a percent of the country’s gross domestic product (6.5%). However, it has the third-lowest public expenditure on health as a percent of total health expenditures (55.3%). For expats, the most common complaint about the health care system here in Korea is the language barrier and the problems that it causes in gathering information about medical and insurance options. However, in terms of the actual quality of medical services that we receive in Korea and what we pay for them, Korea may soon gain more recognition worldwide, and deservedly so. T h e Nat i o n al P la n

Everything begins with national health insurance, which is available to everyone working in Korea. You are covered (with a deductible) for nearly any medical situation as long as it is not classified as “elective.” This insurance is provided by the National Health Insurance Corporation, is paid for through a national tax, and is one which you must sign up for. The premium for this comes directly out of your paycheck, with your employer paying half if you are employed, or is paid directly to the NHIC if you don’t have a job. For those employed by a government office (public school teachers) or private companies, their contribution is the same (50%). Your insurance cost is calculated at 5.9% of your monthly salary. For the self-employed or those who do not receive a standard wage, this gets slightly more complicated. Those on a student visa receive a lower contribution rate. For long-term resi-

dents, the rates are exactly the same as Korean nationals, based on income and property. This insurance applies to nearly all medical procedures except electives and certain other expenses, depending on what the hospital or clinic offers. Medication is also covered, making your trip to the pharmacy very affordable. Traditional (Oriental) medicine and treatment including acupuncture are also provided for, as well as more specialized services such as chiropractic. Basically, you pay from 20-35% of the costs for medical services with the percentage changing with the type of procedure. The NHIC has an international relations department at its main branch in Mapo-gu, Seoul. Their main function is to assist foreigners with their health care issues. Their phone number is 02-390-2000, and service is in English. nhic.or.kr

Talk to the Insurance Experts

18 10 Magazine June 2011

Byung Keun, Samsung Fire and Marine Insurance byung625@gmail.com 010-3232-0625

Chartis Insurance, Korean Office ask.chartis@ chartisinsurance.com 02-2260-6800

Korean National Health Insurance Corporation nhic.or.kr/portal/site/eng 02-390-2000 (English help line)

Lee Jeong-hyeon, Communications Specialist, LINA Korea (CIGNA International) 02-3781-1114 jeonghyun.lee@cigna.com

P r i vat e Op t i o n s

Even with the national health insurance, certain diseases or chronic conditions can become expensive as their treatments include options that are considered elective. These conditions may make it impossible to work. The deductibles on your hospital visits are also out-of-pocket and can be substantial as they are represent a percentage of the NHIC-set costs, not a set amount. Private health insurance is becoming increasingly necessary with the costs of medical care putting a huge financial strain on the NHIC. There are several options open to foreigners interested in purchasing private insurance. The list of products can be staggering, and information is usually not in English. The most sensible option is to contact a private insurance representative directly and explain exactly what coverage you are looking for and let them tailor a package for you. Standard health insurance is relatively cheap, covering small procedures and even legal protection. The more expensive “life” insurance covers larger procedures as well as drug and operative treatments. Many of the life insurance policies available function as a pension plan with payouts 10-15 years into the future. The NHIC in Korea covers 90% of the costs of cancer screening and testing for specific types of cancer (stomach, colorectal, breast and liver). However, long-term care can be expensive, so most companies offer packages that include coverage for specific types of cancer. Note that the ceilings on coverage can be quite low on some packages (W20 - 30 million) which can be used up quickly for certain treatments.

Do your homework! Find out exactly what you want and ask about it. The language barrier often stops insurance agents from volunteering information. If you don’t ask them, they won’t tell you. Don’t become too frustrated with the constant “you should contact someone else,” particularly on the phone.

Testimonials Khalil Mihad played on an American football team here in Seoul. During a game, he was injured but thought little of it. In such a violent sport, injuries of this type were considered typical. However, after a few days of minor discomfort, a sudden attack of pain revealed a hematoma in the spleen, requiring immediate surgery. After a bungled 4 am EMS experience, he found himself at the Samsung Medical Center in Irwon-dong. Mihad remained in the hospital for 11 days. The costs for the hospital stay came to about W6,000,000, but with the insurance he carried through his job, nearly W4,000,000 of that was covered, leaving a more manageable bill. While this is certainly substantial for a newcomer to the country, it could have been much worse. Johanna Haas was diagnosed with MS two years after coming to Korea. She was admitted to Boramae Hospital and given an MRI and lumbar puncture the same afternoon. Neurologists spoke with her in English, explained the diagnosis, and answered her questions. She was prescribed Betaferon, a drug which slows MS and decreases the severity of attacks. The cost of this drug is US $1,200 per month, but 90% of this cost was subsidized by the National Health Service. She was assigned, for no additional fee, a personal nurse from the drug company to train her to give herself the injections. After a full week spent recovering in the hospital, her bill was about US $1,500, a fraction of what it would have cost back home. 10 Magazine June 2011 | 19

Di n e & dr i nk

The Long and Savage Story of Soju W o rds by Dav i d V o l o d z ko

There are three things you should know about soju: your options, your manners, and your limit.

oju (소주, literally “burnt liquor”) isn’t what you think it is. The history of the drink we have today might surprise you. To start, it’s worth noting that the favorite poison of one of the world’s strongest drinking cultures originally comes from a country where alcohol is now illegal: Iran. Soju’s past is like a Park Chan-wook film – fraught with violence. Mongolian hordes swept through the Taklimakan Desert and across Persia, leaving horror and ash in their wake and returning home with something known as aragh-e sagi, or “dog sweat.” A kind of raisin brandy, its potency was no doubt enjoyed by Genghis Khan’s warriors, and, though the recipe was tweaked over time, “dog sweat” never lost its edge. The arid plains beyond the Gobi are no place for a vineyard, but the Mongolians had an abundance of something else: horses. Thus fermented raisins gave way to fermented mare’s milk, though to this day Mongolians still call the stiff brew “airag,” reflecting its distant origins. It was from this that Korea’s national drink evolved. In fact, before it was “soju” people knew it as “arakju” (아락주), and you can still get fermented horse’s milk in Korea today (now under the name “mayuju,” or 마유주). At first, soju wasn’t so different from Japanese sake. Rice was abundant in both areas and the distilled product was far tastier than other options, but then as now the process wasn’t cheap and it was therefore enjoyed mainly by

the ruling elite or sold as an expensive medicine. Its long-standing place in Korea’s consciousness as a kind of medicine, as well as the historical absence of certain religions that have been known to demonize drunkenness, might account for Korea’s open-minded attitude towards binge drinking, something many folks living here have praised. That, and its unbeatable price. Of course, “proper” soju distilled from rice, the stuff of connoisseurs, costs considerably more. The cheap stuff didn’t debut until the sixties. This second stage of its evolution was also the result of bloodshed. With the economic trouble following the Korean War, Park Cheong-hee’s industrialization policy in 1965 (산업화) prompted the Third Republic to prohibit the use of rice in the production of alcohol. This resulted in the decision to switch to using sweet potatoes and tapioca instead. The incredibly powerful result is then diluted with water and flavored so as to taste less like kerosene. In 1999, apparently the coast finally looked clear, because—hallelujah!—the ban on using rice was lifted. This was followed by the arrival of several old-style soju brands: i.e. distilled, not diluted. However, by then soju had already come to represent an efficient (that is, strong and cheap) means of getting drunk. While some of the classics still hang on and are worth hunting down a taste for lighter, fresher and sweeter soju has evolved. But whatever you fancy you can likely find it in your local grocery bottled in the same shade of green glass that Perrier uses to conjure up images of plush groves and mossy streams. Here’s to “dog sweat”— Wihayeo 위하여!

The Proper Way to Get Drunk Now that you’ve chosen your bottle and ordered your anju (bar snacks), don’t forget your etiquette.

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• Never drink soju alone. It’s a social lubricant. To paraphrase a Korean proverb: “after one bottle you’re a drunken stranger, after two you’re a drunken guest, but after three you’re a fellow drunk.” • If it’s a Cheoeum Cheoreom (see next page), then give the bottle a good swirl before cracking the cap. The goal here is create a little tornado in the bottle that’s believed to soften the taste (whether this actually works is dubious to say the least—but hey, it’s fun). • Don’t fill your own cup. We’re all drinkers here, but it’s not polite to show it, so fill the cup of those beside you (if they’ve fully drained it) and wait for them to fill yours. • When drinking with superiors (in age or position) turn your head away as you drink and keep the rim of your glass beneath theirs when you clink glasses. • When someone says “one shot!” you’re meant to finish your cup in, yes, one shot. Technically, the same goes when someone says geonbae (건배), which is literally means “dry glass” (as in, make your glass dry).

Tasting Notes by the Soju Sommelier W

hen you get to the grocery or corner convenience store, don’t make the mistake of thinking all soju brands are essentially the same. Get out there and explore. It isn’t all top-notch stuff, but once you develop a palate for it, the range of flavors can be charmingly diverse.

Andong Soju 안동소주 The single-malt whiskey of soju. Big, bold, earthy and with a firm 35% kick in the teeth just for good measure.

Cham Iseul 참이슬 (true dew) There’s the original at 20.1% and the newer “fresh” label at 19.5%. Produced by Jinro, Korea’s most successful soju manufacturer, whose toad mascot guards the side of every bottle. Crisp almonds with a spicy finish.

Chamsun 참순 (truly pure) This 21% blend includes flavoring from Japanese raisins (almost like old-school aragh-e sagi), lending a mildly chewy sweetness to its strength.

Hwayo 화요 ( fire emperor) For critics who consider soju nothing more than a cheap way to get drunk and find the Andong too harsh, here’s the reply. With Hwayo, you’ll find rich citrus aromas and silky textures—a soju for sipping, not shooting. But watch out: this one’s as pricy as it is tasty.

Jeulgye Chatgi 즐겨찾기 ( favorite) The bottle insists that everything about this soju is “comfortable” and “easy,” and it’s difficult to disagree because at 15.5% it goes down like cucumberflavored water.

San 산 (mountain)

Recognizable by the three green peaks on its label, this soju from Gangwon-do is 22% and contains a touch of green tea to take the edge off.

White 화이트

Cheoeum Cheoreom 처음처럼 (like the first time) The original label is 19.5% while the new “cool” style is a sharp and smooth, but slightly floral 16.8%.

The next time you’re in Gyeongsang, keep an eye out for this puppy. It packs a 23% punch, but they’ve added honey to balance that out and Xylitol for good measure to help whiten your smile while you unwind. 10 Magazine June 2011 | 21

Kor ean desti nation

Jeju on the Flip Side W o rds a n d sh ot s by L i s a X i n g

eju-do has been done. It really has. Museums are mapped out, popular beaches are labeled and planted with umbrella after umbrella. These are the spots in bold on the tourist map when you first arrive. But there are other destinations, other sites to see above and beyond the already-trodden. It’s easy to wing it on the island, especially due to its size so don’t stress too much over the details. While you should research what kind of trip you want it to be, leave plenty of room to veer off the well-trodden path.

M ov i n g A r o u n d O n Yo u r M o p e d

For the adventurous, traveling the little island is best by moped. Driving a car is quicker, but you don’t get to experience the open ocean air. Spend one day riding along the coast roads, stopping wherever you are interested. My friend and I came upon some gorgeous, deserted beaches and nooks along the north and west coasts. Slather on the sunscreen, though, or you’ll burn within an hour. There are a ton of bike shops in most towns on the island, but if you’re flying in, head to the immediate area around Jeju City. There’s a great bike shop called Mr. Lee’s Bike Shop ( jejubike@ gmail.com, 064-758-5296), which is an easy cab ride from Jeju Airport. Bikes cost less than W25,000 per day. G o i n g B e yo n d t h e B o ld L ab e l s o n t h e M ap

If you skip cities, it’s easier to discover brilliant waterfalls

and deserted beaches. We came across a lighthouse by the sea. Instead of just snapping shots, we climbed atop the landing and looked out into the open ocean. Along the west coast, we discovered little stretches of beach with deep, green water: perfect for sitting and reading a book without huge waves. Clothes in a pile on the sand. Hot sun, Bliss. When we visited Sunrise Peak on the east coast (a huge crater extending into the ocean—and also a huge tourist attraction) we climbed up around the other side of the entrance and hung out with a lonely horse grazing in the tall grass. Afterwards we biked over to one of the lookouts further away and spent a few hours napping. Looking Out for Free Lodgings

There are a ton of campsites around the island, and they’re all free. You’ll get the luxury of showers and proper bathrooms, of course. A better option is camping on the beach. In the heat of summer, though, you’ll fare better leaving one door layer unzipped or you’ll definitely overheat. You’ll be able to wake up to a gorgeous sunrise in the morning and go for a morning swim. A friend of mine actually skipped the tent for this reason and slept in the open air on the beach. A word of advice, though—avoid camping on a beach facing the open ocean, like on the east coast. We learned this lesson at Sinyang Beach on the second night. We had planned to set up camp

Three Tips for Would-Be Bikers

22 10 Magazine June 2011

1 If you plan on riding at 2 Don’t trust the time estimates locals night (and you probably give you. We were told it would shouldn’t), invest in a take us two hours to scooter it from facemask and a jacket Hyeopjae Beach on the east coast or you’ll end up with to the Donnaeko campsite near the mouthfuls of bugs and Seongpanak trail up the mountain. It guts all over you. took us almost four hours.

3 You don’t need to fret too much about slight damage to the vehicle. Back home, a broken mirror and scratched up paint job (don’t ask!) can cost upwards of $100. I was charged W10,000.

in a little gazebo overlooking the beach and ocean. It got viciously windy and thus, pretty much impossible to pitch or sleep in a tent. Ha n dl i n g t h e H i k e u p Halla s a n

Many people go to Jeju without doing the obvious—Hallasan, the highest mountain in South Korea. It’s worth the four-hour hike to the top just for the views (on a clear day) or just the sheer bragging rights. Whatever your incentive, there are other adventures to have off the well-trodden path. Make the short hop off the side of the bridge and lounge on the rocks by waterfalls on your way down the Gwaneumsa trail. The best way to trek the mountain is to venture up the Seongpanak trail first (south-east of the mountain). You’ll get to see a lot of Hallasan’s natural beauty and have chances for plenty of pit stops. Take the Gwaneumsa trail on the way down, though, because you’ll be treated to some spectacular views. It’s just a short bus or taxi ride back to Seongpanak if you parked your mopeds there. M a k i n g t h e M o s t o f A n y S i t uat i o n

Your trip is really what you make of it. Keep an open mind about your experiences and don’t be afraid to meet new people or take on a good opportunity to have fun. On the last night I ended up going to a restaurant later at night to have dinner as my poor food-poisoned friend passed out at 9 pm. It was deserted for the first hour or so, but then a group of ajossis and ajummas stormed in, pushed our tables together and insisted on all of us doing the “one-shot” or “up-and-dry” (no explanation needed). In my hazy state I stumbled back to our motel only to spend the next two hours sitting out on the steps talking to the student working behind the counter. Needless to say, waking up to catch the 8:30 am flight the next day was a bit of a challenge. But if you want an unconventional vacation on this oft-congested island, it’s all about simplifying your itinerary—or sometimes, throwing it out to sea. 10 Magazine June 2011 | 23

Shot by Joe McPherson at Wolfhound

Back to the Burger Words by Nicole Hajdas

Not all burgers are created equal, as you’ll find out when you try the fine patties served up at the restaurants below.

hat thoughts come to mind when you think of a burger? What characteristics are most important to you? Whether it’s chargrilled or juicy? The quality of beef or the texture? Regardless of where you hail from, or how much you enjoy all of the food adventures available here, you probably have a comfort food that you occasionally crave. For me, a cheeseburger provides one example of that little taste of home. Formulating a top 10 list is a lot of fun—especially when one gets to share the results. I jumped at the chance to explore new places, revisit old standbys, and really perform an unbiased assessment of the ever-changing, fast-moving burger subculture in Korea. We made a point of sampling each of the Reader’s Top 10 burger places—plus many more to compile our final list. In compiling this list, I hope to inspire readers to get out and make their own personal top 10 list. Just use caution with the burgers—you may need to double your time at the gym! Happy hamburgering.

Shot by Nickolas Fury at Pepper Grill

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The Joe

A relative newcomer to the Hongdae burger scene, The Joe offers a good basic burger with sweet relish, juicy meat, fresh ingredients and probably one of the most enthusiastic owners on the list (up there with Kevin at Chili King). Very clean, casual atmosphere with diner-type seating. Outside order window is available for carryout. Signature Burger: W5,900, Premier Burger: W7,900. Potato wedges included with set order (W2,500 to upgrade). 070-4156-5522, 1F 345-30 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

Pepper Grill

Fresh Australian beef is used for their flavorful and juicy chargrilled burger

with a lightly toasted bun. All sauces and toppings are made in house, and it shows. We noted (and enjoyed) the cheerful atmosphere and mellow music. Bernini and wine by the bottle available. W8,500 includes two potato wedges and slaw. 02-333-7138, 331-9 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

The Wolfhound

This popular pub is traditionally known for its fish and chips. Their 180g or 240g cheeseburger comes with a toasted bun, garlic mayo, and the expected toppings. This is a good, basic burger that satisfies your craving. 180g cheeseburger with bacon: W10,900. 240g cheeseburger:

W13,900. Salad, fries or mashed potatoes included. wolfhoundpub.com 02-749-7971, 128-6 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

EST. 1894

Fresh bun, juicy burger, lightly sautéed onions, and condiments automatically added to burger (note this when ordering). Tasty jalapeno relish available. They are quite proud of their specially designed rotagrill. It’s definitely worth a try! Cheeseburger with small portion of homemade potato chips: W9,800. Potato wedges with chili: W7,800. est1894.com 02-790-1894 34-25 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Hollywood Grill

Dillinger’s

All American Diner

Chili King

Cozy bar atmosphere, a tasty chargrilled burger that is juicy but not greasy, and nice cheese selection. My personal fave here is the Blue Cheese Burger. It’s not the largest burger in town, but I prefer quality over quantity any day! Cheeseburger with fries is W11,000. 02-749-1659 123-33 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Opened only one year ago, Dillinger’s has demonstrated consistency, traditional flavors, and a nice handmade patty. The half-price burger special on Tuesday nights is a great way to try these burgers for yourself. Expect a typical bar atmosphere with music and smoking, but in warmer weather the deck is a nice place to relax and enjoy some tasty burgers. Cheeseburger with fries is W10,500. 02-793-7232 72-32 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

A classic, chargrilled cheeseburger that is juicy and simply tasty. This diner is generous with the melted cheese (try the cheddar!), and grilled onions are available free of charge. Try to sit near the large, front windows with the license plate wall décor. The interior could benefit from a refresh, but there’s a good variety of highquality, kid-friendly, and tasty food. The basic burger with skinny fries is W11,900. 02-790-0411 56-13 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Chili King owner Kevin Cyr serves up quality, consistency, flavor, and a great attitude on a daily basis! You won’t leave Chili King without satisfying that burger fix. A personal favorite is the Jalapeno Burger with Ranch Dressing. Kevin is now

preparing his meat in-house, along with his homemade slaw and sauces. The latest additions to the menu include The Master Blaster and Big Kahuna. Non-smoking. The burger with seasoned fries and coleslaw is W9,900. Chili cheese fries are also available. chilikingkorea.com 02-795-1303 118-62 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Bistro Corner

Burger B

Jay Young and his family take great pride in preparing and smoking all meats on the premises, producing a lean, fine grade of hamburger meat. You won’t be disappointed by this juicy, flavorful burger. If you happen to be in the mood for ribs, you’re in luck, as they’ve got some of the very best in Seoul. The rooftop deck is small but perfect, weather permitting. The cheeseburger is W9,500, with fries at W3,000. 02-792-9282 57-28 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

This restaurant opened in January, 2010 with a variety of fun menu options like the Pop Burger, consisting of two sliders (mini-burgers) for W7,000. The burgers here are prepared with a nicely toasted bun and flavorful charbroiled ground chuck patty from a New York City recipe. The overall great taste makes this the total burger package for me. My top choice here would be the gorgonzola cheese and mushroom—delicious! The décor and the Illy coffee bar with homemade milkshakes are nice touches also. There’s even an incentive program for repeat customers. We wanted to make sure this was truly our number one pick, so we returned the following week and we were not disappointed! A cheeseburger is W5,800, or upgrade to a set with crispy skinny fries and a soda for W3,000 extra. 070-8870-9220 362-7 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul 10 Magazine June 2011 | 25

A Slice of Perfection Words by Jyoung-ah Kim

hen they tire of gnawing on live octopus, long-term expats feel a natural gravity towards comfort foods. New expats in the country can not understand the pains and frustration of the lifers who did cartwheels when they saw a decent block of cheese on the grocery shelf way back when. Though over the years many of expats’ back-home favorites have become more accessible, until recently, there was one item on the list that always fell short: pizza. Chicago deep dish, New York-style thin crust, Neapolitan brick oven: the varieties of the circular wonder are as endless as its toppings. It was quite difficult to rank them on one list; however, I can promise that you will not find a single sweet potato and corn pizza with squirts of mayonnaise at any of the establishments below. The criteria used for assessing them were: quality of toppings, quality of base, crunchiness factor, and bang for the buck.

Costco

I don’t think anyone actually likes the pizza: they just like the cheapness and the size. Though Costco pizza may look, smell, and even taste like the stuff you had back home, it’s not going to make anyone say, “That’s a damn good pizza.” Find a friend with a Costco membership or bite the bullet and invest in the W35,000 to get you in the door. The pizza is W12,000 costco.co.kr/eng

The Kitchen

Another one of those over-priced Italian restaurants that I’m not fond of, but this was a pleasant overall eating experience, and it’s south of the river for you bottom dwellers. You can get good quality, brick-oven pizza, but the center got a bit on the soggy side, keeping it lower down the list. The distinctive toppings include smoked provola, red onion, and marinated pork or chicken. W20,000 – W30,000. kitchensalvatore.kr 02-3447-0071 646-2 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

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Beer O’Clock

What? North Americanstyle pizza delivered to your home? But only if you live in Itaewon-dong. You can also dine in at the Sinchon bar, and it’s much better straight from the oven. Expect medium thickness on a chewy hand-tossed goodness from home. They are a bit skimpy on the toppings, but the Sinchon location does have an original pizza which pays tribute to the donair with minced beef and yogurt sauce to boot. W13,000 - W18,000. beeroclock.ca S i n c h o n : 02-333-9733 2F 52-53 Changcheon-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul I ta e w o n : 02-792-0007 F1 Geongnidan, 225-93 Itaewon-dong, Seoul

Uno Chicago Grill

Although this place is one of those over-done family chain restaurants, the taste that comes from the delectable deep dish is more than enough to satisfy your home-style craving. They have the classics—prima pepperoni, chunky sausage, and four cheeses— along with other fun dishes like cheese burger and one they call jambalaya. I cried when they closed the Sinchon location. Now it’s only located in COEX, Jamsil and Ilsan. W16,500 - W31,000. uno.co.kr 02-551-3355 C-1 COEX Mall, 159 Samseongdong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Crow’s Nest

People say the olfactory sense is the most nostalgic, and walking into this establishment certainly did remind me of the aroma of an authentic pizzeria. The look and feel also fall into line, and the menu has a decent variety of the appetizers you could find back home from Buffalo wings and cheese sticks to calamari. The pies comes in large and gargantuan at W16,000 - W26,000. 02-749-7888 112-2 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

The Pizza Peel

The owner is a former English teacher who realized the need for this comfort food. He flew to Italy to study about

the art of pizza-making before importing the brick oven and opening up his business in Little Itaewon. The dough and sauce uses a Neapolitan recipe and is made daily so it’s fresh. The menu covers the old classics and then some fancier stuff (if you want pesto and artichokes), but you’ll want to save room for the calzones. W11,000 – W17,000. 02-795-3283 34-65 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Trevia Trevia serves customers at two locations in

Itaewon-dong. The Itaewon Station shop is a full-on Italian restaurant with pastas that are delizioso and two types of pizza—the oblong pizza or the original tonda (round) Neapolitan styles. The oblong pizza is typically ordered as a half/half of your choice, and they range from W12,000 - W16,000 won. The other location near Noksapyeong is more of a café where you can walk up and purchase a slice for W4,000. I ta e w o n : 128-15 Itaewondong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul 02-795-6004 N o k s ap y e o n g : 557 Itaewondong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul 02-794-6003

Sortino’s Cucina

I’m typically not impressed with brick-oven pizzas from overpriced Italian restaurants, but I can’t deny the quality of toppings and overall pizzazz of this tasty pie. Honestly, crunchy crust and base are quite important to me. Who wants to sink their teeth into a soggy, wet mush? Sortino’s pizza stayed crunchy in the center even after taking it out of the to-go box! W16,000 W28,000. sortinos-seoul.com/sortino 02-797-0488 2F 736-11 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Hollywood Grill

I’ve been raving about Hollywood’s pizza and saying it’s the best for quite some time now. Although it may have been knocked off the pedestal on this list, it didn’t fall far. There is just something about the combination of the tangy sauce, gooey cheese and fresh toppings on this wonder. With a bar and pool table to keep it company, what more could you possibly ask for? W11,500 - W15,500. 02-749-1659 123-33 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Blacksmith’s Brick Oven Pizza

대장장이 화덕피자집 Why is this #1—other than the quality of toppings, yummy base, and decent price for what you get? What impressed me the most was that they served the pizza on a stone slab placed on an iron stand with a candle underneath to keep it hot and crunchy. The cutesy, eclectic interior at other places leaves me fairly jaded, but the décor here is cozy. (Incidentally, the owner is a professional blacksmith.) Once you finally make the trek to find it, get a reservation because it’s always packed. W18,000 - W26,000. 02-765-4298 62-1 Gahoe-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Shot by Dylan Goldby at Hollywood Grill 10 Magazine June 2011 | 27

Wings of Desire Words and shot by Joe McPherson

In the final part of our Best of the West series, Joe McPherson takes readers on a whistle-stop tour of the spiciest, crispiest, and wickedest wings on offer across the peninsula.

n 1999, Duane Henning was in Apgujeong complaining to his girlfriend about the sad state of Italian food in Korea. The conversation then turned to wings. The recently opened Reggae Pub had some jerk wings, and the foreign franchise casual dining places had wimpy attempts, but the concept of real tangy, drippingly hot Buffalo wings was alien in Korea. Henning opened Beaver’s Wings in Hongdae two years later, possibly the first full-fledged wing establishment in Korea. It had nine varieties, ranging from Buffalo to Thai to Jack Daniel’s. Despite its popularity, it closed its doors in 2002. Sometime later, Sh-wing opened in a tiny closet space in Apgujeong and became a legend with its “Krazy Korean” wings, where only one would make many patrons go outside to walk it off. More foreign-operated bars opened, and more wings started appearing on menus. When Korea’s first Hooters opened in early 2007 in Apgujeong, it became the death knell for Shwing and pushed hot wings into Korea’s mainstream. Ten years after the opening of Beaver’s Wings, chicken flappers have become staples of pubs. Restaurants feature their wings as main items. There are even a few places that specialize in just wings. We recently asked our readers to vote for their favorite wing spots. I have tried all of them personally and then some. What I’ve found is that there is not much of an agreed upon standard for what comes with wings. I ranked these according to the entire wing experience and left out the well-known chains. Some got points for the little extras. There were a lot of surprises.

Richard Copycat’s AllAmerican Diner Greatest Variety H e at: 8 For a restaurant boasting of its great wings and its variety of sauces, it’s a shame that they don’t allow any mixing. Their hottest wings, Volcano, gave some good fire. All the sauces I tried suffered from lack of depth. The hot sauce was like straight distilled vinegar with cayenne chile powder. Caribbean Mystery’s mystery was if it had anything to do with the Caribbean. richardcopycats.com 02-790-0411 56-13 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Blue Cheese Heaven H e at: 5 The Wolfie has a great burger and fish ‘n’ chips. The wings would be just as good if there wasn’t so much competition, even on the plate. They come with a basic Buffalo sauce, lightly applied. Their friends are some fat veggies and a tub of blue cheese dressing, which overshadow the wings themselves. wolfhoundpub.com, 02-749-7971 128-6 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

28 10 Magazine June 2011

The Wolfhound

Reggae Chicken

Best Atmosphere H e at: 1 Reggae only has the kingstone wings. They’re breaded and juicy with herby vinaigrette on the side, along with an onion ring and fried potato slices. As fried chicken goes, they’re tasty. Reggae’s definitely aren’t Buffalo wings. But this little Hongdae haven/Bob Marley shrine brings the right laid-back atmosphere. reggaechicken.net, 02-338-3438 91-3 Sangsu-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

Big Rock

Tastiest Unique Wing H e at: 6 The regular Buffalo wings come with a tiny bit of veggies and a suspiciously sweet and herbal ranch. But the one to get is the coconut red curry, which is breaded and comes with a salad, of all things. It’s delectably spicy and gooey with the essence of a Thai beach getaway. bigrockbeer.co.kr, 02-539-6650 B1 Yongjeong Building 818-8 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Beer O’Clock

Most Classic H e at: 6 When the granddaddy of Korea Buffalo wings, Duane “Beaver” Henning, isn’t making his own batch, he goes here. Beer O’Clock is generous with their sauce. They also have a chunky housemade ranch for a little extra. These are the classic wings to eat while watching sports and are properly messy. beeroclock.ca 02-333-9733 2F 52-53 Changcheon-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

Dillinger’s

Most Unique Presentation H e at: 9 Rather than serve ranch and celery, Dillinger’s serve their wings on a pile of crispy French fries. The fries soak in the sauce and become that much better. Dillinger’s hottest wings posed one of the greatest challenges in finishing because of the heat. The Thai green curry ones were also spicy and just tasted damn good. They appear in my dreams occasionally now. 02-793-7232 72-32 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Rocky Mountain Tavern

The Manliest Manly Man Choice H e at: 9 Get ready y’all because these testosteronedriven wings have some kick. They aren’t kidding when they call their hottest wing “Killer Ouch.” These are some nose runners. They counter that with the creamiest coolest ranch in the bunch. They don’t serve any veggies, saying no wussy vegetables

should be with their wings. But that ranch was so smooth it was crying for some celery. rockymountaintavern.com 010-5189-2327 2F 736-12 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

3 Alley Pub

Scrooge Pub

Traveler’s Bar & Grill

Deepest Flavor H e at: 8 The Insane wings are just that. Great heat on those monsters. The wings themselves are plump, and 3 Alley lets you mix ‘em up with different flavors. There’s this mysterious flavor that’s in the hot wings that I can’t quite peg. A good wing needs not only to be hot: it should have an interesting flavor to keep you returning. 3alleypub.com, 02-749-3336 116-15 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Hottest

H e at: 10 Scrooge is playing hardball. Their hottest wing is dangerous business. We couldn’t finish the stack. Their honey garlic wings are packed with flavor and are a good reprieve from their “insane” option. They don’t provide any veggies, so be prepared for euphoric torture. 02-797-8201 119-28 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Best with Friends This is the closest I found to Sh-wing’s “Krazy Korean.” They put straight capsaicin in their sauce, and they give a good punch and lingering lip afterburn. The flavor is a bit vinegary, but it matches perfectly with the provided ranch and veg sticks. The garlic parmesan offers a pleasant and smooth contrast. They also are liberal with customers’ mixing and matching preferences, so you can enjoy them with friends with difference preferences. An overall great experience. travelersbar.com 010-4591-4869 Taesung Building 3F, 265-6 Seohyun-dong, Bundang-Gu, Seongnam H e at: 8 - 9

10 Magazine June 2011 | 29

E dited by DAV I D CA R RU TH and su n k y u ng L e e

Spruce Up Your Bibimbap with Spring Herbs Korea’s Sparkling Summer

JW Marriott Seoul The JW Marriott Seoul is running a summer package exclusively for residents of Korea (June 24th - August 31st). Taking place every Friday and Saturday during this period, it includes admission for two to Bar Rouge’s margarita- and mojito-making class with attendance limited to four couples (7 - 7:30 pm, 8 - 8:30 pm). There’s no need to take notes while sampling your skills as recipes are provided. The package also includes breakfast buffet for two at The Café@JW. W279,000++. jw-marriott.co.kr 02-6282-6282

Friday Is Lady’s Night

Daegu Hotel Inter-Burgo Head to the Daegu Hotel Inter-Burgo to discover and enjoy the secrets of Korean and Japanese cooking. At Un Hae, guests can enjoy the spring herb and flower bar with namul for a healthy serving of bibimbap that is full of vitamin C and other nutrients that are essential after the long winter. Lunch 12 pm – 3 pm, dinner 6 pm – 10 pm. ibhotel.com 053-602-7114

Grand InterContinental Seoul Parnas This package is sure to please the ladies. Enjoy happy hour at a stylish contemporary bar and then head back to your spacious Junior Suite to find a complimentary bottle of wine (your choice of red or white) along with an assorted cheese platter. There are also three pieces of anti-aging nanocell masks for your skin. An extra bed is provided free of charge (W375,000++ for three guests). seoul.intercontinental.com 02-559-7777

10 Magazine June 2011

BBQ Night at Rooftop Terrace

Fraser Place Central Seoul Enjoy cool summer nights with stunning views of the city at the Fraser Place Central Seoul. Rent the 23rd floor rooftop terrace for your outdoor events and BBQ, and get exclusive access to the area, which includes use of BBQ grill and facilities. Pine Garden (max 50 guests) W300,000+. Maple Garden (max 25 guests) W200,000+. 6 pm – 9 pm. Reservation required. fraserplace.co.kr 02-2220-8888

The Temptation of Tender Lamb

Novotel Ambassador Busan Are you ready to give in to the temptation of tender lamb? Just in time for summer, steak and seafood restaurant Ventanas will offer a lamb and wine promotion. Get your fill of high-protein lamb dishes to keep your energy high as the summer approaches. You won’t be disappointed with the tender lamb and great wine. This promotion continues through June 15th. Reservations required. novotelbusan.com 051-746-8481

Get Ready for an Early Summer Getaway

Oakwood Premier COEX Center Seoul The Oakwood Premier COEX Center is offering an Early Summer Package for those who wish to take a mini getaway before the longer summer vacation later in the year. The package includes a onenight stay, complimentary breakfast for one person along with free admission to the fitness center, indoor swimming pool, sauna and indoor golf range. Guests can also rent 2 DVD movies. Through the end of June. W210,000 - W310,000. oakwoodpremier.co.kr 02-3466-7000

Brunch Buffet at the Park Café Marriott Executive Apartments From the Park Café’s 2nd floor, you can take in a spectacular view of the surrounding park while enjoying a peaceful brunch with those closest to you. The most popular entrees will now be complemented by an open buffet stocked with choices ranging from the wholesome and organic to the sinfully delicious. Guests can choose one main entrée and complement it with greens and fruit. 11:30 am - 2:30 pm. W40,000++. measeoul.com 02-2090-8050

+ = subject to 10% VAT, ++ = subject to 10% VAT and 10% service charge

Enjoy Lunch the Italian Way

Courtyard by Marriott Seoul Through May and June, the Courtyard by Marriott Seoul Times Square in Yeongdeungpo is the place to enjoy authentic Italian cuisine, and the chefs at MoMo CafĂŠ are putting together an impressive menu to prove it. Well-stocked salad and dessert bars complement their list of 15 entrĂŠe choices, five each among pizza, pasta and risotto. The lunch special (W29,000++) includes unlimited access to the open salad and dessert bars and tea or coffee. 11:30 am 2:30 pm. courtyardseoul.com 02-2638-3081

Welcoming Guests with a Free Beer

Astoria Hotel Astoria Hotel, which has been open for fifty-two years, is offering a Welcoming Beer Package to celebrate remodeling the front desk at the New York-style Italian restaurant Bella Coolla 63. Customers who check in on the weekend will receive free beer and a face pack, which will help you relax after a long day. Also, ten customers who follow the Astoria Hotel Twitter account and leave comments with photos will receive a limited edition bottle of Evian designed by Paul Smith. 02-2268-7111

Poolside Barbecue Buffet

Imperial Palace Looking for a place to party with friends or family? The poolside barbecue party at the Imperial Palace outdoor pool (weekends & holidays through September 25th) may be the ultimate choice. Tasty meat such as grilled lamb chops and pork ribs and fresh seafood will be served. The chef will make various barbecue dishes on the spot so you can enjoy watching the dishes getting grilled up before you chow down. Note that the outdoor pool is not available during buffet hours. Adults W75,000, children W42,000. imperialpalace.co.kr 02-3440-8000 10 Magazine June 2011 | 31

Expat News J U N E 2011

Tribute Bands and Indie Musicians Share Stage at RocKorea The new city of Midan in Incheon is ready to rock out with RocKorea: A Tribute to Indie Rock. From Saturday, June 4th to Sunday, June 5th, RocKorea will create a Woodstock-like atmosphere where individual freedom and communal experience will reign from noon to dawn. Koreabased expat bands (Lance Reegan-Diehl Band and Mirrorhouse), Korean bands (The Rocktigers and Minha Band), and tribute bands (Led Zeppelin tribute band Over the Hills and Far Away and Rolling Stones tribute band Sticky Fingers) are scheduled to perform along with approximately nine other bands. Of course, all that rocking out will leave fans famished, so there will be an international food court with a variety of menu options including Thai, Mexican, European, African, and Asian. There will also be a music contest and giveaway events held between performances. And for those who want to truly get into the spirit of the aspiring “Woodstock of Asia,” there will be a campsite for pitching your tent in true DIY fashion. Single tickets are W40,000, and group tickets (at least 4 people) are W25,000 per person. rockorea.com

Making Sunday a Funnier Day Sunday Funday, which got started in May, is Haebongchon’s first and only comedy open mic. The fun takes place downstairs at the recently renovated Phillies Pub every 2nd and 4th Sunday of the month. Starting early at 7:30 pm, it’s a great way to top off a weekend for those HBC dwellers not wanting to hike all the way to Itaewon. It’s also the only open mic in town where new comics get a free drink their first time on the mic. The next Sunday Funday takes place on June 12th. Show up at 7 pm to sign up. For more information, email Erin Weber at ekweber2@yahoo.com.

10 Magazine June 2011

Shot by Mark Savoie

Expat Bodybuilder Takes 2nd Place in Mr. Universe Korea After a grueling 4 months and losing over 15kgs, New Zealander Cody Hunter came in 2nd place in the 2011 Mr. Universe Korea competition. Hunter is the owner/operator of Studio X Fitness in Gyeongridan, Seoul, and despite a tough work schedule, he managed to get up and start his training every morning at 3:30 am. “It was a spectacular opportunity to get to compete and I was very happy with my showing,” Cody said. “It was also great to get to meet other bodybuilders in Korea and share training stories and make friendships.” This year he participated in the under 90kg category, but he’s aiming to go for the heavyweights next year - anything over 90kg.

Volunteers Needed for North Korea Human Rights Group Justice for North Korea, a group of Koreans and foreigners dedicated to addressing the North Korean human rights crisis, is recruiting new volunteers in Seoul. JFNK organizes speaking events and documentary screenings as well as fundraisers, with donations going directly to help North Korean refugees. Another activity is the monthly awareness campaign held in Insadong. To stay abreast of JFNK events and news, join the weekly email list by sending an email to rescuenorthkorea@gmail.com and briefly introducing yourself. A list of volunteer opportunities may be found online at justice4nk.org.

Edited by A ngela lee and Dav id Carru t h

Newcomers

Have you ever wondered who’s new in Korea? Read on to see three of the expats who have recently stepped foot on Korean shores.

Floating Island Moves Closer to Grand Opening A night of performances and speeches marked the preliminary opening of the Han River Floating Island on May 21st. Even if you’ve missed the media buzz, you’ve probably seen the construction under way near the Banpo section of the Han River Park. The Floating Island consists of three manmade islets, designed to support restaurants, conventions, and cultural activities. The lobby and viewing areas have been open since May 21st, and the rest of the facilities will be unveiled at the grand opening scheduled for this September. Call the tourism line at 1330 for more info.

New League Takes Seoulites Out to the Ball Game The Seoul Baseball League (SBL) star te d with a small idea and has blossomed into a full blown league thanks to people who are passionate about playing ball and some great sponsors. Beer O’Clock, Dillinger’s, Roofers, and Sam Ryan’s are each sponsoring one of the first four teams. The SBL will host a summer season with games twice a month from the end of May until the middle of August, and then two more teams will be added for the fall season. The league soon will be looking for sponsors for the next two teams. Games will take place on different fields in Seoul. “We started this as a group of guys that love sports and are competitive, and we wanted a sustainable outlet for foreigners to get their baseball jones on,” SBL co-founder Ryan Burda said. “Our hope is that this turns into a yearly league much like all the soccer, football, basketball, and volleyball leagues you see celebrating around Itaewon after games.” The SBL sponsors provided the league with help for uniforms and equipment, while members of the league pay dues to help rent fields and umpires. Statistics will be kept for the league, and a champion will be crowned at the end of the season. More information can be found on the Seoul Baseball League Facebook page and group page.

A s t he he a d of pre m iu m banking at Standard Chartered First Bank in Korea, Rajesh Kannan has found Korea to be “a la nd of extremely passionate people, great food, culture and beautiful landscape.” He has found his new home to have an interesting mix of old and new, traditional and modern with ancient temples and palaces against the backdrop of skyscrapers and rows and rows of apartment buildings. He himself is also influenced by an interesting mix, since Thai green curry and makgeolli are his favorite dish and drink. He hopes not only to be influenced by Korea but to also actively contribute, both in his work and free time.

While living in Singapore, Lin X iny i made the bold decision to move to Korea as the talent manager at Standard Chartered Bank Korea. She has smoothly transitioned into her new country, already stating that makgeolli, Korean BBQ, and tteokbokki are her favorite Korean beverages and dishes. When asked what she is looking forward to experiencing in Korea, she enthusiastically responded with, “Lots!” Along with traveling to meeting new people, she also wants to squeeze in some time to learn the Korean language and how to ski. Since snow and mountains are foreign to this Singaporean, she jokingly added that she hopes she won’t “break any limbs.”

Though he has a natural affinity for rice and chicken curry, Jaideep Appukuttan Nair has branched out to Korean cuisine during his first three months here, finding it to be “extremely delectable.” His assimilation to Korea has also influenced his alcohol preferences. We can safely say that he won’t deny a shot of soju from the new friends he will meet. When he’s not eating and drinking, he works as the head of procurement at Oxy Reckitt Benckiser Korea. With his new position in a new count r y, he hop e s t o gai n a n understanding of Korean culture and indulge in travels all around the country. 10 Magazine May 2011 | 33

Gastronomic News J une 2011

Edited by A ngela lee and Dav id Carru t h

Champagne Discounts and Raffle for Between’s 1st Anniversary

Citi Cards Offer a Special Discount at W Seoul Hotel’s Barbeque Buffet, W Sizzle Citibank Korea will be presenting a special discount offer to Citi Cards customers using the outdoor barbeque buffet at W Seoul Hotel Skydeck from 7 – 10 pm every Friday and Saturday through June 11th, 2011. Enchanting visitors with a beautiful view of Seoul and the Han River, W Seoul’s Skydeck presents W Sizzle, the barbeque buffet, which features premium meat cuts, authentic Italian sausages, fresh seafood and a variety of desserts. W Sizzle also offers a separate package providing unlimited beer refills in addition to the buffet menu. Any Skydeck customer paying the bill using Citi Cards (BC and corporate card excluded) will receive extra 5% DC in addition to the existing 10% DC. For reservations and more details, please contact W Seoul Hotel (02-2022-0111) or Citi Card Premium Dining Reservation Center (1577-0901).

Hollywood Grill Reshuffles Its Weekday Specials

10 Magazine June 2011

You know that 250g sirloin steak special on Tuesday nights at Hollywood Grill? Sadly, it’s gone (though most definitely not forgotten). Fortunately for big appetites, the Hollywood folks have come up with something to replace the steak. Tuesday nights feature an appetizer special. From 6 – 10 pm, items on the snack menu including Hollywood nachos, quesadillas, poutine, curry chips, burritos, chicken fingers, and much more will be half off. And if you get your days mixed up and drop by on Wednesday instead, you can console yourself with a cheese steak sandwich for only W7,500 (normally W12,000). The new specials come into effect on May 31st. Hollywood is located on the 3rd floor near Itaewon Stn. (line 6, ex. 2). 02-749-1659

Italian restaurant and lounge Between, located in the heart of Itaewon, is celebrating its first birthday by giving something back to its loyal customers. From May 22nd through June 22nd, guests can enjoy special deals on champagne: a bottle of Mumm and Antipasto Misto is W130,000, Mimosa with Mumm is W10,000, a glass of Mumm is W18,000. A raffle will also be held, with prizes including a hotel stay, a bottle of Mumm Magnum, and Between gift certificates. And while supplies last, visitors during the period will receive a special gift from the restaurant. The raffle winners will be announced in the restaurant on June 27th and on the homepage. betweenitaewon.com 02-795-6164

Sortino’s Cucina Releases New June Menu Confused as the weather gyrates between spring and summer? Turn to Sor tino’s Cucina in Itaewon, which has a great seasonal menu to cheer you up. 02-797-0488 Arancia caprese This traditional Italian hors d’oeuvre from Campagna is accented with buffalo mozzarella cheese, Sicilian oranges, and lemon dressing. Spaghetti all’amatriciana The representative pasta of Romagne, it’s a little spicy and a little smooth. Linguine aglio e olio con tartufo nero e gamberi This exquisite olive oil pasta is cooked with Umbrian truffle oil, the finest extra virgin oil, and Mediterranean jumbo shrimp.

Dillinger’s Has the Most Wanted 2nd Floor and Patio Dillinger’s Bar and Grill opened up quiDILLINGER’S etly at the end of last year on the main drag in Itaewon, taking over the location that the legendary Reggae Pub had occupied for over a decade. There’s been nothing quiet about the place since then. A great atmosphere, food and cheap drinks paired with super-friendly owner-bartenders have left the place brimming with jubilant customers most nights of the week—so much so that they’ve added a second floor to their revelry! Head up to Dillinger’s 2nd floor for some of the best views of Itaewon around—or chill out on the newly opened patio to enjoy the warm weather as you sip on your draft beer. facebook.com/DillingersBarSeoul 02-793-7232

On the Border App Debuts for Android Tex- M ex r e s t a u r a n t On the Border has just launched a new android application. With this brain-teasing memor y game, On the Border’s signature marga r it a s a re re de signe d a s cu te new game characters. The great par t of the deal is that you can exchange the points you collect for actual coupons and vouchers! Who was it that said video games were a waste of time? With this app, you can have fun playing and get a discount on your next meal. ontheborder.co.kr 10 Magazine June 2011 | 35

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PA L A C E SEOUL

Twelve Singing Animals: Children’s Musical Through August 21st Korean kids have plenty of musicals, plays, and other productions to take part in, but expat parents may feel there’s a shortage of creative opportunities for their kids. Picking up part of the slack is LATT Children’s Theater, which produces several musicals and plays conducted entirely in English each year. Of course, the primary market for the theater is Korean children whose parents want to expose them to a wider variety of English, but the snappy songs and colorful productions by this troupe are just as enjoyable for expat children. The troupe’s current production is a lively musical called Twelve Singing Animals (with Aku Kadogo as art director and Peter Winkler as composer), which has been seen by more than 94,000 patrons of the theater since its premiere in 2004. [Continued on page 47]

NATIONWIDE

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NETWORKING CALENDAR

Thor

Directed by Kenneth Branagh The latest adventure in the “Marvel Cinematic Universe” is here, and if you’re looking for some Nordic superhero antics, then Thor does not disappoint. We meet the god of thunder (played by a very buff Chris Hemsworth) in Asgard as he and his little brother Loki (Tom Hiddleston) wreak havoc with the Frost Giants. Odin (Anthony Hopkins in the role he was born to play), angered by his son’s recklessness, strips Thor of his powers and banishes him to Earth, where he encounters scientist Jane Foster (Natalie Portman) and attempts to reclaim his hammer, Mjolnir. Who knew that Kenneth Branagh would make an excellent action film director? He effortlessly leads us around the realms of Asgard, Jotunheim (home of the Frost Giants) and Earth in an entertaining, almost operatic version of this Marvel comic. There’s a great sense of fun, and if you’re willing to suspend your disbelief then it’s a very enjoyable two-hour superhero romp. Just remember to stay till the very end of the film and rejoice in the knowledge that Thor will return in The Avengers next year.

Movies Cave of Forgotten Dreams

by Pa u l M atthews

Directed by Werner Herzog Every other Hollywood movie seems to be coming out in 3D, but to my surprise it is this charming documentary that makes the best use of the third dimension. Werner Herzog takes us on an incredible journey into the Chauvet Cave in Southern France, which was first discovered in 1994. We are allowed deep inside the cave and are shown some extraordinary prehistoric works of art. Filmed under tight restrictions (the team was only allowed in the cave over a six-day period, four hours per day) and with a skeleton crew, Herzog still manages to capture the beauty and brilliance of these thirty thousand-year-old paintings.

Classics of Korean Cinema

38 | 10 Magazine June 2011

While it doesn’t have the flash-bang action of Avatar, Cave of Forgotten Dreams is a far more beautiful and worthwhile endeavor. Herzog uses 3D to great effect, allowing us to experience the cave paintings in a far more visceral and tangible way. This is a mustsee film for all art lovers, and a magnificent tribute to the Chauvet Cave and the ancient art that lies within.

Nowhere to Hide 인정사정 볼 것 없다 Directed by Lee Myung-se This 1999 action thriller is perhaps director Lee Myung-se’s best work and stands as one of the greatest Korean films of the past fifteen years. Starring Park Jung-hun as Detective Woo and Jang Dong-geon as Detective Kim, the film follows these two hard-boiled policemen as they chase vicious murderer Jang Seong-min (played by An Seong-gi), around Busan. It’s cops versus criminals, in quite possibly the most artistic action film ever made. The film is incredibly brutal, incredibly beautiful and incredibly funny (though the English subtitles don’t always do it justice). Lee has managed to create action sequences

filled with still images, colorful f lourishes and surprising shots that are more exciting and inventive than most normal movies. There’s a lightness of touch here, a playfulness, and a real sense that Lee is enjoying himself. He brings out the best in An Seong-gi (more famous for playing heroes than bad guys) and allows Park Jung-hun to shine as the cocky cop who will stop at nothing to get his man. Nowhere to Hide deserves to be seen and will not disappoint. Lee Myung-se’s masterpiece will have you glued to the screen, and the rain-soaked violent climax will leave you begging for more. Plus, I promise that you’ll never listen to the Bee Gees in the same way again.

NATIONWIDE CALENDAR New This Month June 2nd Mama 마마 Korea.

Drama. Eom Jeong-hwa, Yu Hae-jin; dir. Choe Ik-hwan.

Dates are subject to change. June 9th Priest USA. Action/Horror/

SF/Thriller. Paul Bettany, Karl Urban; dir. Scott Charles Stewart. June 16th In a Better World

June 2nd X-Men: First Class USA.

Action/Adventure/SF. James McAvoy, Michael Fassbender; dir. Matthew Vaughn.

June 16th Green Lantern USA.

Action/SF. Ryan Reynolds, Blake Lively; dir. Martin Campbell.

NATIONWIDE

Denmark/Norway. Drama. Mikael Persbrandt, Trine Dyrholm; dir. Susanne Bier.

‘Where you’re more than just a guest’

June 2nd The Resident

UK/USA. Suspense/Thriller. Hilary Swank, Jeffrey Dean Morgan; dir. Antti Jokinen.

June 9th Short! Short! Short!

애정만세 Korea. Drama. Seo Ju-hui; dir. Bu Ji-yeong and Yang Ik-jun.

June 16th Hoodwinked Too! Hood

VS. Evil USA. Animation. Hayden Panettiere, Patrick Warburton; dir. Mike Disa.

June 9th Play 플레이 Korea. Drama.

Jeong Jun-il; dir. Nam Da-jeong. June 9th White: The Melody of the

Curse 화이트: 저주의 멜로디 Korea. Horror. Ham Eun-jeong; dir. Kim Gok and Kim Seon.

June 9th Scream 4 USA. Horror/

Mystery/Thriller. Neve Campbell, Courteney Cox; dir. Wes Craven. June 9th Moby Dick 모비딕 Korea.

Drama/Thriller. Hwang Jeong-min, Kim Min-hui; dir. Park In-jae.

June 23rd Legend of the Fist:

The Return of Chen Zhen HK/China. Action/Drama. Donnie Yen, Qi Shu; dir. Wai-keung Lau

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June 30th Transformers: Dark of the

Moon USA. Action/Adventure/SF. Shia LaBeouf, Rosie HuntingtonWhiteley; dir. Michael Bay.

TBA Miracle on Jongno Street

종로의 기적 Korea. Documentary. So Jun-mun, Byeong-gwon Jang; dir. Lee Hyeok-san.

Television

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by S oyeo n K imberly Yoo n

The Greatest Love Conquers All The Greatest Love avoids the clichéd Cinderella formula to bag both romance and laughter.

ost Korean romantic dramas have a typical storyline: an ordinary girl who is living diligently despite her poverty meets a tall, good-looking, and filthy rich man who eventually falls in love with her. For some time, most dramas have seemed to revolve around the same Cinderella storyline with only slight differences in the setting and the characters. This storyline was a big hit when it was first introduced but viewers slowly began to crave something more fresh and exciting. The Greatest Love (최고의 사랑) finally brings viewers something new. This romance, formerly known as “Discovery of Affection,” is about an actress and former idol singer (Gu Ae-jeong, played by Gong Hyo-jin) who has seen better days and an actor (Dok Go-jin, played by Cha Seungwon) who is now at the peak of his career. These two go through a lot of trouble together, from their unpleasant first encounter at a gas station to Goo Ae-jeong accidently overhearing Dok Go-jin’s failure to be cast in a Hollywood

film. Gu Ae-jeong’s friendship with Dok Go-jin gives her a chance to be back in the spotlight, leading to her appearance on a famous TV show and in the press. Netizens are already thrilled to find out how arrogant and self-centered Dok Go-jin is going to fall in love with Gu Ae-jeong. Comic situations aren’t the only charm of this drama, however. Fashion icon Gong Hyo-jin has gotten a lot of press for her exceptional fashion style. Her jacket, sunglasses, and even her hairstyle are receiving much attention and viewers are dying to find out where to buy these items after each episode. Cha Seung-won’s style is also attracting many fashion followers. Not only his style, but also his comic way of speaking are proving popular. While other new dramas currently on the air are struggling due to low ratings, The Greatest Love is showing a steady increase in its ratings. Netizens are impressed with how this drama differs from others because of its unique subject matter and hilarious events that the couple must go through every episode. Find out how Gu Ae-jeong and Dok Go-jin fall in The Greatest Love every Wednesday and Thursday 9:55 PM on MBC. 10 Magazine June 2011 | 39

American roots music, and a serious listen refreshes the soul better than even the most potent moonshine. The gates to this kingdom are definitely open.

North Mississippi Allstars

Keys to the Kingdom Songs of the South Records There’s a renaissance of sor t s u nder way i n American roots music these days, with numerous bands fusing together disparate strands of a real down-home sound to produce heartfelt odes fully reflective of contemporary lives and times. One of the leading bands in this revival is Luther and Cody Dickinson’s trio the North Mississippi Allstars (with Chris Chew on bass); their blend of old-style slide blues, roots, alt-country, and plaintive rock has seen them ascend to lofty heights from decidedly humbler beginnings in 1996. Keys to the Kingdom, while softer in tone than their previous efforts, compensates grandly with growly lyrical expression, soulful deep-south and swamp-blues slide guitar, gravelly harmonies, and inspirational, spiritual exhortations. The twelve tunes lead the listener through a musical grove of all that is good and wholesome in real

Eagles

Hell Freezes Over Geffen Records Whether or not you are an Eagles fan, there’s no gainsaying their place in the past four decades of popular musical culture. From t he mor e h a rd edged rock-country sounds of their earliest releases like “Desperado,” through the cryptic lyricism that defined “Hotel California,” to the AOR staples like “Tequila Sunrise” and “Life in the Fast Lane,” the Eagles always soared just that much higher than their contemporaries. The 15 tunes on the album all stand the test of time, are wellproduced, and basically offer up a noteworthy Eagles retrospective. Nowadays, they prefer to re-energize their live concert cred, which is why this CD should resonate so well. Not only does it have all the standard tunes desired by legions of fans, but it also contains a live concert DVD with 17 tunes that should please even the most cynical listener. No W300,000 concert tickets are needed to enjoy this outing, so plug it in and by M ic h a e l B e rry “take it easy.”

Books

Stealing Home My little sister became insufferable after discovering Ayn Rand. “Everyone is motivated only by their self interest,” she declared, succinctly summing up the ethical ideal of Rands’ inspirational fictions. Turns out the problem with this reductionist ideology wasn’t limited to my family. Why did we have such a huge financial crisis in 2007-2008? Lo and behold, Alan Greenspan, Chairman of the U.S. Federal Reserve for two decades prior to 2006, was a personal disciple of Ayn Rand. Greenspan used Randian philosophy to steer us into economic ruin. How do I know this? I’ve read Griftopia: Bubble Machines, Vampire Squids and the Long Con That Is Breaking America 40 | 10 Magazine June 2011

Neon Bunny

Seoulight Mirrorball Music It’s not unusual for bands like Neon Bunny to go unnoticed: without gimmicks, a debut stage, or fancy dance routines, the band rely on their sentimental melodies and keen sense of melancholy to tap into the most enjoyable pop album of the year. Stripped of hyper-stylized electro beats and appearances by guest rappers, Neon Bunny’s vocals, heavy on reverb, blend effortlessly with the guitar- and piano-heavy arrangements that evoke a whimsical atmosphere with unpretentious love songs like “Can’t Stop Thinking of You” and “You Guys.” The blend of 60s pop with 90s alternative rock creates a unique homage to Shibuyakei complete with catchy beats and an asyet-to-be-explored canon of nostalgic hooks. A stunning debut album, Neon Bunny’s Seoulight evinces a sophisticated knowledge of pop history and makes up for its sometimes simplistic arrangements with a mature exploration of the nuances of its by A n n a Or z e l uncomplicated facade. by J ohn M e ns i ng

by Matt Taibbi (276 pages, $26.00). Taibbi writes for Rolling Stone, and his prose is chock-full of witticisms, guttural expressions, and heroically indiscreet epithets. What he’s describing – the mind-set and the people that bilked the U.S. and the world’s financial system – is both incredibly complex and frustrating, but he makes reading about it exciting. Many aspects of the U.S. Federal government were manifestly irresponsible, as were some investment banks, particularly Goldman Sachs. Taibi names some of the prominent perpetrators, chronicles when and where they did wrong, and quotes them rationalizing their malfeasance. He also finds a few heroes. It’s monumental reporting, tying together the disparate threads and weaving them into a tapestry more compelling than the individual dispatches. If you’re an American leftist, you may find Taibbi’s finger-pointing disenchanting: Obama appointed the same people who’d engineered and profited from it to supervise the post-disaster; his health care bill exclud-

ed insurance companies from anti-trust legislation; and the discourse on both sides of the aisle—the Republicans blaming “lazy poor people living in too much house” and the Democrats blaming a few avaricious suits—obscures systemic failings. If you’re European, you’ll read several examples of how Europe was intertwined with this mess; and of course, the rest of the world was both affected and involved as well: Korea has issues with derivatives, too. As an index of how popular this book is, over 1,000 people have written community reviews of it on goodreads.com, and there are several hundred overwhelmingly positive reviews of the book on Amazon. Taibbi, who initially covered the culture and politics beat, scooped the established financial journalists, who have been playing catch up ever since. See 10mag.com/books for a more elaborate discussion of this title. Next Month’s Review

English teachers will be fascinated to learn about the language they’re shilling in Globish: How the English Language Became the World’s Language by Robert McCrum.

Tech

by S ta ffo r d L u msd e n

A Free Market for Mobiles A recent decision by the Korea Communications Commission spells the end of local carriers’ control over cell phone sales.

In late 2009, SK Telecom and KT rolled out so-called Third Generation (3G) mobile phone networks. It meant Korea was the first country in the world to be totally covered by 3G networks, and that, as long as you had compatible hardware (2100Mhz WCDMA), it meant foreign handsets would

nationwide Hotlines Emergency 119 Police 112 Directory Assistance 114 Medical Information Center 1339 This is a 24-hour, nationwide hospital information service available in English, Korean, Chinese and Japanese.

finally work in Korea. Except it didn’t. Government regulations requiring handsets to have WIPI (Wireless Internet Platform for Interoperability) security software installed continued to covertly foster protectionism and near monopoly for handset makers Samsung, LG and to a lesser extent Motorola. Exit WIPI in late 2009 and say hello to iPhone and a slew of handsets from Taiwanese manufacturer HTC, Sony Ericsson and briefly from the world’s largest phone manufacturer, NOKIA. But the “open market” for handsets that was supposed to occur as a result of the demise of WIPI was a misnomer. Want to bring your own phone from your home country when coming to Korea? Be prepared to jump through hoops and pay hundreds of thousands of won to get it approved! KT will let you do it, begrudgingly, but if you want the newest phone, you are stuck with having to go through a carrier. Unlike the rest of the world, the only

Citibank citibank.co.kr Deutsche Bank Bank of America Bank of China BNP Paribas bnpparibas.co.kr HSBC

place you can buy a handset in Korea is from a carrier. And so notwithstanding the deals respective carriers have with Apple, KT and SK Telecom continue to prop up Samsung especially because you can’t get a mobile phone anywhere else. Enter the Korea Communications Commission. On April 13th, it announced that it “has decided to improve the distribution system so that people can buy mobile phones not just through mobile service providers.” Users will now be able to buy phones from anywhere – including as gifts (it’s kind of hard to surprise someone with a new phone when the lucky recipient has to show their ID to the carrier). In addition, it will mean users will be able to purchase devices directly from manufacturers (Nokia sells to customers for example, as does Apple) and from overseas. The biggest gain, though, will not be access to new and different handsets, but greater flexibility and cheaper services offered by carriers that are no longer able to milk consumers for the cost of a subsidized handset over the course of a two-year contract. The KCC has stated that the new system will come into effect at the end of the year.

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10 Magazine May June | 41

SEOUL Fish Cutlet Lunch

Food Review

An Intimate, Romantic Find

Chaugi

W o rds a n d sh ot s by J o e mcp h e r s o n

What this tiny restaurant lacks in space it more than makes up for with its ingredients and atmosphere.

estled in the alleys of Anguk-dong’s hanoks and art galleries is a little nook that has become the buzz of Korean food bloggers—not expat food bloggers, Korean Korean food bloggers. It’s Chaugi, a restaurant carved into a section of a hanok that is so intimate everyone speaks in hushed tones. Chaugi specializes in making global cuisines with Korean ingredients. There is a great emphasis on freshness. It’s because of this that the menu is constantly changing. It’s one of those restaurants where there is a standard menu and a du jour one written on an erasable board. This leads to one of Chaugi’s downsides. It’s an extremely small place, so there’s only room for one server. Yet the restaurant is popular, and each table is packed. So this lone server is trying to take care of everyone at the same time. With erasable board menus, well, there’s only one. When a new table comes in, the server has to greet the diners and hold up the menu board. The server can’t leave until the diners make their choices. While all this is happening, other tables are 42 | 10 Magazine June 2011

waiting for drinks, dishes and bills. So even though the server is working as hard and as quickly as she can, the service is on the inefficient side. The menu itself is nice but not show-stopping. It’s the usual Euro-Italian fare that Korean bloggers go ga-ga over—pastas, pizzas, gratins, hamburger steaks. Yet a sweet pickle was nowhere to be found, a good sign. A lot of people rave over the fried shrimp. Chef Chun Changwooki, formerly of 10 Magazine fave izakaya Smith Seongsaeng (RIP), owns and runs the place. That explains the little Japanese touches and why the Japanese dishes are well-executed. And while the menu doesn’t have many surprises, each dish comes out artfully executed with a freshness that leaps off the plate. This tiny room gets packed easily. Reservations are almost required. Yet it’s so intimate that it’s a great romantic spot. Also keep in mind that the standard menu has English on it, but the du jour board menu is all in handwritten Korean. Yet Chef Changwooki can speak English and may be able to help you make a good choice. It’s still a food blogger magnet, so expect a few cameras taking pictures of the food. 10 Magazine reimburses reviewers for their meals and never notifies restaurants that they will be reviewed.

Main menu has English, daily menu is in Korean Not allowed A few items and special requests can be made Inside is a tad narrow Highly suggested Gorgeous romantic setting and fresh ingredients Same menu you can get anywhere else W9,000 - W21,000 per dish 02-915-0105 32-8 Jae-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul. Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex. 2), walk north. Left at Jaedong Elementary. Left down a narrow stone-strewn alley at a coffee shop. It’s on the left. 12 - 2 pm, 6 -10 pm. Closed Sunday evening and all-day Monday.

FOODIE FINDS

Eat, Rest, Pay, Leave

Brunch and More Near COEX

This is the Soup Nazi of tteokbokki. Meok Swi Don Na (먹쉬돈 나) means “Eat, Rest, Pay, LEAVE.” It’s a popular little hut in a historic neighborhood that has a constant line outside. The server is usually outside taking orders from this line. They serve tteokbokki, but it’s the add-ons that people go for, like fried dumplings, mussels and cheese. This is all brought to your table and boiled. When you’ve finished—and the server will make sure you finish—the pot gets whisked away, and the remains are used to make fried rice. You eat the rice, pay and LEAVE. Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex. 1). Walk north. Left on second street. 02-723-8089 Words by Joe McPh e rs on

Images provided by CT Bakery

Whether you’re at COEX to meander through the mall or explore an expo, this brunch spot gives you some tasty options for refueling. Contrary to what its name implies, CT Bakery is much more than a bakery, serving delicious weekend brunch, salads and sandwiches, gelato and more. The modern space features plenty of seating, including an outdoor terrace for the warmer months. For the Western palate, brunch is the highlight, as the egg dishes are particularly f lavorful and artfully arranged. The bacon is perfectly cooked and fulfills that desire for salty indulgence, yet the side salad and asparagus make the dishes feel light and healthy. The Eggs Kitchen—a Benedict-style dish— features poached eggs with hollandaise over savory garlic toast, which always hits the spot. For heartier appetites, try the Salmon Brunch, which includes an omelet, sausage, asparagus, a side salad, bacon-wrapped salmon and a glass of white wine. But you may want to save room for the homemade desserts. Getting there

You can find this one located close to COEX mall, across from the Seven Luck Casino. Head to Samseong Stn. (line 2, ex. 5). 148-9 Samseongdong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 135-090 ctbakery.com 02-563-9966

Words and shots by K ath y K ear ns

10 Magazine June 2011 | 43

SEOUL CALENDAR e di t or’ s pick

From top:

SEOUL

π stripteasing 1=10° by François Morellet, 2005; Kristen Lifting Skirt by Juergen Teller, 2005

Exhibits of Note This Month This month the Daelim Contemporary Art Museum is full of naked flesh. In one photo, two models stand nude before the Mona Lisa in the Louvre. In another, a penis floats over a bare, pregnant belly (called I Love My Wife). A third set shows 70-year-old fashion designer Vivienne Westwood lounging naked on a couch, all red lipstick and imperfect teeth. The photos are by Juergen Teller, a German fashion photographer best known for his Marc Jacobs ads. Daelim has curated a mix of Teller’s commercial work with images from his retrospective books and shots from a trip to Cuba, titled “Ten Days in Havana.” The show continues through July 31st. Like the Yousuf Karsh show held at the Seoul Arts Center earlier this year, the portraits are as interesting for their subjects as how they were taken. While Karsh turned his gaze towards the ruling class of royalty and posh film stars (see: Jackie O and Audrey Hepburn), Teller turns his to a separate social set of younger, grimier stars (see: Pam Anderson, Kurt Cobain, and Kate Moss). At Gallery Hyundai, works by French artist François Morellet can be seen through June 19th. Since the 1950s, Morellet has played with minimalism and light. In this exhibit, a set of distorted works from the 70s can be seen, which the aging Morellet calls “Senile Lines.” Recent hyperrealistic paintings by active Korean artists can be seen at the Seoul Museum of Art’s annual Seoul Art Exhibit through June 19th. SEMA is also hosting an exhibit functioning as a cultural exchange between Korea and Australia. The show, Australia Digital Urban Portraits, celebrates 50 years of relations between the countries, and explores both how digital media has shaped the portrait and the look of present and future cities. This show closes June 26th. Words by Russ Martin Daelim Contemporary Art Museum 35-1 Tongui-dong, Jongno-gu. 10 am – 6 pm. daelimmuseum.org 02-720-0667 Gallery Hyundai 122 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu. 10 am – 6:30 pm. Closed Mon. galleryhyundai.co.kr 02-2287-3500

44 | 10 Magazine June 2011

Seoul Museum of Art 37 Seosomun-dong, Jong-gu. Weekdays 10 am – 8 pm. Weekends and holidays 10:00 am – 7 pm. Closed Mon. seoulmoa.seoul.go.kr 02-120

Design & Fashion Ongoing Free Market and Hope Market Saturday afternoons, stop by the playground at Hongdae for some fashionable finds. The Free Market, held on Saturday, focuses on fashion accessories, while the Hope Market on Sundays offers more in the way of arts and crafts. Located close to Hongik Univ. Stn. (line 2) and Sangsu Stn. (line 6). cafe.daum.net/artmarket, cafe.daum.net/ hopemarket 02-1330

fun and exciting? Forget about stiff museums and enter the world of optical illusions with your friends and family. Don’t forget your camera. 6th Floor Special Exhibition Place at Sindorim Technomart linked with Sindorim Stn. (line 2, ex. 2). 10:30 am - 9 pm. W12,000. mbctrickart.com/seoul 1566-1369

Through June 5th Choi Xooang Exhibition She takes the human body as her motif and uses angles in her selectively realistic style. Sungkok Art Museum near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, exit 7). 10 am – 6 pm. Thu 10 am - 9 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W5,000, students W4,000. sungkokmuseum.com 02-737-7650

Through September 25th The Art of Disney’s Classic Fairy Tales The exhibit features over 600 original artworks that express Walt Disney’s unique imagination and humanism. Hangaram Design Museum at Seoul Arts Center in Seocho. Weekdays 11 am - 8 pm, Sat & Sun 10 am - 8 pm. W10,000 - W14,000. dctexhibition.com 02-580-1300

Korean Rhapsody: A Montage of History and Memory The exhibition will focus on developments in Korean society throughout the 20th century by looking back on important historical incidents. Leeum Museum in Hannamdong. Tue - Sun 10:30 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. W4,000- W7,000. leeum.org 02-2014-6900 Through June 14th Emergency Landing, Disparate Surrounding Exhibition Enjoy the warm weather with this unusual outdoor exhibit. One day, a jumble of electronics and strange creatures make an emergency landing in a familiar space. Seoul Museum of Art near City Hall Stn. (lines 1 & 2, ex. 10). Weekdays 10 am – 8 pm. Weekends and holidays 10:00 am – 7 pm. Closed Mon. Free. seoulmoa.org 02-2124-8972 Through June 21st Gwanghwamun International Art Festival A children’s drawing contest will be held, turning the festival into family entertainment. Works of the winners will be displayed at Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). giaf.co.kr 02-723-9486 Through June 26th Korean Traditional Musical Instruments and Music In cooperation with the National Gukak Center, this exhibit displays treasures from prehistoric times through the Joseon dynasty and includes a chance to hear a gukak performance. National Museum of Korea near Ichon Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Tue, Wed, Fri 9 am – 6 pm. Wed, Sat 9 am – 8 pm. Sun 9 am – 7 pm. Free. museum.go.kr 02-2077-9459 Meeting Two Artists Exhibition This exhibit features two important figures of Korean art: Kim Yong-jun who is cherished as an artist and art critic as well as a scholar and Kim Whan-ki, a lyric artist whose work carries modern aesthetic value. Seongbuk Museum of Art near Hanseong University Stn. (line 4, ex. 6). 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. W1,000 - W2,000. sma.gongdan.go.kr 02-6925-5011 Seoul, City Exploration Exhibition Seoul has changed immensely in the past several decades, and this will be an opportunity to learn more about the city while encountering various types of artwork. Seoul Museum of Art near City Hall Stn. (lines 1 & 2, ex. 10). Weekdays 10 am – 8 pm. Weekends and holidays 10:00 am – 7 pm. Closed Mon. Free. seoulmoa.org 02-2124-8939 Trick Art Seoul Special Exhibition Ever thought a museum could be this

SEOUL

Art

Through September 11th Ethnic Earthenware from the Asian Heart Explore what it means to be Asian through these earthen sculptures. National Museum of Korea near Ichon Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Tue, Wed, Fri 9 am – 6 pm. Wed, Sat 9 am – 8 pm. Sun 9 am – 7 pm. museum.go.kr 02-2077-9000

Theater & Dance Ongoing The Ballerina Who Loved a B-Boy This story of a would-be ballerina who falls for a b-boy street dancer is a genrebending mash-up of break dance and ballet. Lotte World Art Hall at Jamsil Stn. (line 2). Wed – Thu 8 pm, Fri 5 & 8 pm, Sat – Sun 3 & 6 pm. Closed Mon & Tue. W50,000. showbboy.com 02-2266-3727 Battle B-Boy Romance at a dance tournament serves as the setting for this exhibition of awesome dance routines and soaring aerial moves. B-Boy Theater Samjin B/D B1 in Hongdae. Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 6 pm, Sun and holidays 2 & 6 pm. W50,000. sjbboys.com 02-323-5233 Chunhyangjeon Chunhyangjeon is one of Korea’s most well-known classics. All the characters are performed by women. Seong Kyun Small Theater near Hyewha Stn. (line 4, ex. 4). Every Thursday at 8 pm. W20,000. cafe.daum.net/ danceparamita 02-747-5035 Drawing Show: Hero Art exhibit or performance? The drawing show is as fun to watch as it is hard to classify. Drawing Show now presents a totally new show named “Hero” at a different location. Myungbo Art Hall near Chungmuro Stn. (lines 3 & 7, ex. 7). Weekdays 8 pm, Sat 4 & 7 pm, Sun 3 & 6 pm. Closed Mon. W40,000 - W50,000. drawingtheater.com 02-766-7848 Drum Cat These 6 Korean ladies may dress a bit provocatively, but their musical ability will chase away any doubts, or raised eyebrows, once the performance begins. Myungbo Art Hall - Haram Hall (Jung-gu). Tue - Sat 4 & 10 pm. Sun & holidays 4 pm. 90 min. Closed Mon. W40,000 - W50,000. drumcat.co.kr 02-586-8489 Fanta-stick This slapstick nonverbal show mixed with Korean traditional music offers you lots of laughs. Kyunghyang Newspaper Building near Seodaemun Stn. (line 5, ex. 5). Tue - Sun 8 pm. 80 min. W40,000 - W50,000. fanta-stick.co.kr 02-789-5664 Jump Two would-be thieves break into a house full of martial arts masters! First performed in 2003, this non-verbal show combines a comic story with martial arts moves and impressive visuals. Downtown near Jonggak Stn. Mon 8 pm, Tue – Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun 3 & 6 pm. W40,000 – W50,000. hijump.co.kr 02-722-3995

10 Magazine June 2011 | 45

SEOUL CALENDAR e di t or’ s pick

Korea House Performance Head over to the Korea House for two daily performances based on traditional Korean culture. You can also sample Korean royal cuisine before the show. Chungmuro Stn. (lines 3 & 4, ex. 3). 7 – 8 pm, 8:50 – 9:50 pm. Dinner price starts at W68,000. Performance is W50,000. kangkoku.or.kr 02-2266-9101

dynasty through this modern take on gugak (traditional Korean music) and dance. Seong Kyun Small Theater near Hyewha Stn. (line 4, ex. 4). Every Wednesday at 8 pm. 60 min. W20,000. cafe.daum.net/danceparamita 1544-1555

Legend of Flower This romantic tale of two lovers redefines what a performance can be with stunning sound effects, tantalizing aromas, holographs, and more. Walkerhill Theater at the Sheraton Grande Walkerhill. Mon – Sat 5:30 & 7 pm. 75 min. W60,000 and up. legendofflower.com 02-455-5000

SEOUL

R-16 World B-Boy Championships & Urban Arts Festival July 1st – 3rd

Theater & Dance

Respect: it’s what the B-boy lives for. These street warriors use their dance skills to battle each other either solo or as a crew. T he R-16 Championships are where the champions of the streets earn the right to be known as the world’s top b-boys. During the three days of the festival, ar tists, musicians, b-boys, and urban enthusiasts come together to participate in the events and cheer on their favored teams. The program includes solo and crew battles, a pre-party, a festival, and a graffiti show. Join the crowd to see if the Korean team can follow up on last year’s success with another win. Seoul Olympic Park near Olympic Park Stn. (line 5, ex. 3). r16Korea.com

46 | 10 Magazine June 2011

The Marionette: B-Boy Musical This nonverbal b-boy musical won the top prize in an international competition. Daehansaengmyeong 63 Art Hall. 8 pm. Closed Mon & 1st & 3rd Tue. 70 min. W30,000. 63.co.kr 1661-1063 Marshmallow A beautiful play about a hero and heroine’s struggle to love one another. Don’t worry. The story has a happy ending - they find their love again. In Korean. Kideuk-kideuk Art Hall Annex in Daehangno. 90 min. W25,000. Weekday 6:30 & 8 pm, Sat 6:10 & 7:40 & 9 pm, Sun 6:10 & 7:40 pm. 90 min. Closed Tue. cafe.daum.net/busting 02-3673-1590 Miso Chongdong Theater presents Miso, a story of one woman’s encounter with love told through traditional dance, percussion, and music. City Hall Stn. (lines 1, 2), 4 & 8 pm. Closed Mon. W30,000 – W50,000. miso.mct.or.kr 02-751-1500 Music Theater Company “Gong” Experience the emotions of the Joseon

Nanta This kitchen percussion extravaganza is the non-verbal stage show that nearly everyone sees at least once. Two Seoul locations and performances almost daily. Refer to the website for more details. W50,000 – W60,000. nanta.co.kr 02-739-8288 Pan An exciting combination of Korean folk songs and percussion of all kinds. Gwanghwamun Art Hall. Wed - Fri 8 pm. Weekends and holidays at 2 pm. Closed Mon and Tue. 90 min. W30,000 W50,000. ghmarthall.co.kr 02-722-3416 Pinocchio: The Musical The classic fairy tale Pinocchio returns as a musical. Yerimdang Art Hall at Dongyeong Munwha Center in Gangnam-gu. In Korean. Thu & Fri 3 pm, weekends 1 & 3:30 pm (4th 11 am, 1:30 & 3:30 pm, 5th & 6th 1 & 3:30 pm). Closed Mon & Tue & Wed. 70 min. W15,000 - W50,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-738-8289

e di t or’ s pick

Through August 21st

SEOUL

Twelve Singing Animals: Children’s Musical Theater & Dance

Continued from p. 37 The musical features a selfish dragon who expects everyone to do what he says and twelve brave animals who try to teach the dragon how to share. The story holds plenty of suspense and surprises, and the vivid costumes and props make it easy for children to enjoy the fun and apprehend the moral. LATT Children’s Theatre is located near Yangjae Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). Walk about 10 minutes and make a right turn shortly after the GS Gas Station. The theater is on the right hand side. Sat 3 & 6 pm, Sun 1 & 4 pm. W40,000. Note that admission is limited to children who are at least 36 months old. lattct.com 02-5600-999 Roommate: The Musical Two girls, one guy, one house! In Korean. 1 Hall at Doore Hall in Daehakno. 8 pm, Sat 4 & 7 pm, Sun 3 & 6 pm. W30,000. cafe.daum. net/2011roommate 02-744-4625 Sa-Choom This non-verbal dance performance tells the story of three friends’ coming of age. Insadong near Jongno 3-ga Stn. (lines 1, 3, & 5, ex. 5). Tue – Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 7:30 pm, Sun 4 pm. 80 min. W50,000. lovedance.co.kr 070-8249-3023 Samcheonggak Morning Performance Start the day by sipping a cup of seasonal tea and listening to the sound of traditional Korean musical instruments. Samcheonggak in Seongbuk. Free shuttle bus available outside of Euljiro Stn. (line 2, ex. 1) at 9:10 am. Every final Saturday. 10 am - 11 am. 60 min. W20,000. samcheonggak.or.kr 02-765-3700 Seoul Nori Madang: Traditional Performance Korean dancers and singers present you with all the vivid colors and exotic sounds of a traditional performance. At Sokchon Lake Park near Jamsil Stn. (line 2, ex. 3). Sun 3 pm. Free. 02-414-1985 You Are the Hero: The Play Kim Dae-beom, one of the star entertainers in Korea, is literally inviting the audience to the stage to perform and complete the play. Nothing can be predicted yet but fun is guaranteed. In Korean. Kim Dae Beom Little Theater. Weekday 4 & 6 & 8 pm, weekends 2 & 4 & 6 & 8 pm. 90 min. W30,000. club.cyworld.com/ youarethehero 02-324-1421 Through June 11th You Are Not Alone: Cabaret Review Presented by the Seoul Players, this is a cabaret review show featuring numbers

from many different Broadway musicals, all around the theme of community. Proceeds go to Habitat for Humanity, the House of Sharing, and Japan disaster relief. Saturday nights at Club After Mainstage in Itaewon. seoulplayers.com info@seoulplayers.com Through June 12th Hedwig: The Musical With raw animation and mind-blowing punk rock, Hedwig is still recording sold-out shows in over 80 cities around the world. KT & G Sangsang Art Hall near Samsung Stn. (line 2, ex. 2). Tue - Thu 8 pm, Sat 3, 6 & 9 pm, Sun 3 & 6 pm. 120 min. Dark Mon. W50,000 - W65,000. sangsangarthall. com 1544-1555 Through June 19th Macbeth: One Man Show The play reflects how modern society views Macbeth. English subtitles available. Daehangno Arts Theater near Hyehwa Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Tue - Fri 8 pm, Weekends 4 pm. Dark Mon. W15,000 - W20,000. dat.or.kr 02-3668-0029 June 1st - 29th Gasigogi: The Play Gasigogi is based on the famous Korean novel about a loving dad suffering from cancer. In Korean. M Theater in Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). 8 pm, Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 3 & 6 pm. Closed Mon. 100 min. W35,000 W55,000. sejongpac.or.kr 02-780-2169 June 14th Life is...: The Ballet Performed by the Seoul Ballet Theatre, the show centers around the subjects of death, love, loneliness, and birth with the music of Mozart and Bach. Opera Theater at Seoul Arts Center in Seocho-gu. 7:30 pm. 90 min. W10,000 - W80,000. ballet.or.kr 1588-1300

10 Magazine June 2011 | 47

SEOUL CALENDAR e di t or’ s pick

SEOUL

Madame Butterfly The Opera June 24th - 26th

Theater & Dance

Recognized as one of Giacomo Puccini’s best operas, Madame Butterfly will be performed by the Seoul Opera Troupe at the Sejong Center’s Grand Theater. Like many of Puccini’s works, the background is in the Orient, specifically Japan. The opera tells the tragic story of a woman who believes in her love, is betrayed by her lover, and finally ends her life. With famous Korean and Japanese opera singers on stage, the beautiful, touching arias and elaborate props and costumes will carry you to a different time and place. Located near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). 7:30 pm. 160 min. W30,000 - W270,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-587-1950 June 17th - July 26th The Idiot: The Play Based on Fyodor Dostoevsky’s novel of the same name. English subtitles available. Daehangno Arts Theater near Hyehwa Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Tue - Sun 8 pm. Closed Mon. W20,000 - W35,000. seoulfactory@ hotmail.com 010-2699-0584 June 24th Some Girls: The Play You might sympathize with this play if you are or have been married. A writer who is getting married soon gets cold feet. What will be his next move? Call up past girlfriends in search of the perfect woman! White Box Theatre near Hyochang Park Stn. (line 6, ex. 2). Time and price TBA. probationarytheatre.com

Dogok-dong 3rd Maple Tree House Now open in DOGOK-DONG

June 24th - July 10th Rain by Cirque Eloize The members of this traveling show aren’t afraid of getting wet. Over 2,000 waterfalls run down from the ceiling, soaking the actors and actresses. LG Arts Center near Yeoksam Stn. (line 2, ex. 7). 8 pm, Sat 2 & 7:30 pm, Sun 2 pm. 120 min. W40,000 - W100,000. lgart.com 1577-5266

SK Leader’s View Maebong Stn. exit.3

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Itaewon

Ongoing 1000 Won Happiness Every month, the city of Seoul invites you to an opportunity to enjoy quality concerts for the price of W1,000! Sign up between the 5th and 7th of each month to win a seat. Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). sejongpac.or.kr/happy1000 1544-1887

Samcheong-dong

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Itaewon Stn. exit.1

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48 | 10 Magazine June 2011

Myungseong Market

Samcheong-dong Street

Concerts

Bar 1010

31-1 Samcheong-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Tel: 02-730-7461, 11:30 am – 10:30 pm (2:30 – 5:30 pm Mon–Fri Break time)

Saturday Chamber Music Enjoy your Saturday afternoon sipping a cup of coffee as you listen to great classical pieces played by the chamber orchestra at KT Chamber Hall in Mokdong. This

event occurs every other Saturday. This month: 6/4 & 6/18. 4 pm. W10,000. ktchamberhall.com 02-3414-2063 May 31st - June 1st Prague Radio Symphony Orchestra One of the Czech Republic’s finest orchestras. Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). 8 pm. 120 min. W50,000 - W200,000. sejongpac.or.kr 02-3463-2466 June 2nd Keith Jarrett: An Evening of Solo Piano Improvisations Jazz and classical pianist Keith Jarrett impressed his Korean fans last year at his trio concert, and now he is visiting Seoul once again. Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). 8 pm. 120 min. W50,000 - W180,000. sejongpac.or.kr 1544-1887 / 02-3463-2466 June 3rd Great Concerto Series 2 Shostakovich’s Symphony No. 9, Brahms’ Violin Concerto, and Till Eulenspiegels lustige Streiche by Strauss. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. 120 min. W10,000 W60,000. sac.or.kr 1588-1210 June 4th Seoul Gugak Festival Gugak (traditional Korean music) as well as fusion music will be performed at the North Seoul Forest of Dreams. 1 - 9:30 pm. seoulgugakfestival.org 02-2171-2573 June 5th CoMPAS11 Series: Suzuki leads Bachsolisten Seoul Bach maestro Massaki Suzuki will be conducting the Korean baroque ensemble BSS for their performance of J.S.Bach’s Mass in b minor. LG Arts Center near Yeoksam Stn. (line 2, ex. 7). 7 pm. 160 min. W20,000 - W80,000. lgart.com 02-2005-0114

e di t or’ s pick

Ben Folds in Korea: Lonely Avenue Tour

SEOUL

June 9th

Concert

American singer-songwriter and unabashed pianist Ben Folds has always been a bit different. He has released tracks entitled “Satan Is My Master” and “For Those of Y’All Who Wear Fannie Packs” (from Naked Baby Photos, released in 1998). He improvised songs while streaming Chatroulette at a live concert, spawning a viral video on Youtube. He produced an album for William Shatner. And now, he is on tour promoting his 2010 album Lonely Avenue, a collaboration with British novelist Nick Hornby (High Fidelity, About a Boy), with lyrics written by Hornby, music by Folds, and string arrangements by Paul Buckmaster. Lonely Avenue is his 12th full-length album, including four records released with former band Ben Folds Five. Head to AX Korea to experience Ben’s emotive voice, piano chops, and always zany concert behavior. 8 pm. W99,000. ticket.interpark.com 1544-1555 Words by David Carruth Eduardo Fernandez Guitar Recital Chamber Hall at Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). 7 pm. 100 min. W20,000 - W50,000. sejongpac.or.kr 02-2277-6516

ex. 5). 8 pm. W60,000 - W150,000. sac.or.kr 070-4130-0877 June 25th

June 9th Toro Y Moi Korea Tour V-Hall. Hongik Stn. (line 2, ex. 9). 8 pm. Advance W50,000, door W55,000. No minors or refunds. supercolorsuper.com 02-563-0595 June 10th - 11th 20th Anniversary of the Shin Seung Hun Show: Grand Finale His five-year world tour will end with this finale concert. Grand Theater at Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 8 pm. 150 min. W55,000 W143,000. sejongpac.or.kr 02-1544-1555 June 13th - 14th Park Jong-ho Live Concert: The Story Tenor Park Jong-ho isn’t afraid to dance while he sings. Grand Theater at Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). 8 pm. 120 min. W30,000 - W120,000. sejongpac.or.kr 1588-5212 June 18th “Dancing Pipes” Organ Concert with Ken Cowan Hear this Canadian organist unleash the 8098-pipe beast. Grand Theater at Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). 7:30 pm. 105 min. W20,000 - W70,000. sejongpac.or.kr 02-399-1114 June 22nd Stuttgart Chamber Orchestra This world-renowned chamber orchestra is highly regarded for its rendering of pieces by Bach and Mozart. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3,

Re-TROS: Chinese Post-Punk Concert Chinese post-punk group Re-TROS (Rebuilding the Rights of Statues) has been influenced by bands like Bauhaus, Joy Division, Futureheads, and others. Rolling Hall near Sangsu Stn. (line 6, ex. 1) or Hapjeong Stn. (line 2, ex 6). 11 pm. Ticket info coming soon. supercolorsuper.com 02-325-6071 June 26th Martin Stadtfeld Piano Recital This precocious German pianist played his first concert at the age of 9. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W30,000 - W70,000. sac.or.kr 02-599-5743

Film Ongoing 8mm: Art Cinema Every other Wednesday night, Laughing Tree Gallery hosts a free movie night featuring documentaries and art films. Bring your own drinks. Laughing Tree Gallery is located in Haebangchon near Noksapyeong Stn. (line 6). 8 - 11 pm. “8mm: Art Cinema” on Facebook. laughingtree.com

10 Magazine June 2011 | 49

SEOUL CALENDAR Ongoing Mummies 3D: Secrets of the Pharaohs Are you daring enough to unwrap the ancient secrets of the pharaohs that have been locked away for many centuries? 63 Building, 63 Art Hall Digital 3D Film Section. W11,000 - W12,000. Please visit the website for screening schedule. 63.co.kr 02-789-5663

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Dialogue in the Dark Experience the life of the visually impaired as you take a tour through darkness with your blind guide. Vertigo Tower in Sinchon. Weekdays 12 – 8:30 pm, weekends 10 am – 7 pm. Closed Mon. W20,000 W30,000. dialogueinthedark.co.kr 02-313-9977 Gyeongbok Palace Folk Performances Performances including traditional dances, gut (exorcism rites), and Korean classical music are held every Saturday at 2 pm. National Folk Museum at Gyeongbok Palace. 3 pm. Museum admission gives free access to the performance. nfm.go.kr 02-3704-3114 Insect & Reptile Exhibition A great chance to see, feel, and experience various insects in the middle of the city (but fortunately not in your house). Insect & Reptile Exhibition Center in Sindang Stn. (line 6). 10 am - 6 pm. W10,000. bugsfestival.com 1588-2019

and listen to Korean music with English, Chinese and Japanese guides. Seoul Namsan Gukakdang near Chungmuro Stn. (line 3, ex. 3 & 4). 90 min. W35,000 - W50,000. Tue - Sat 4 pm. sejongpac.or.kr 02-399-1114~6 63 Wax Museum Exhibiting over 70 pieces in real human size, created by wax figure master craftsman Mazaski Satoru. Lower Ground Floor 3 at 63 City in Yeouido. 10 am - 10 pm. W13,000 - W14,000. 63waxmuseum.com 02-789-5663 Through July 17th Cocomong: Special Exhibition Kids learn the importance of the environment as they watch educational movies, play games, and go on thrilling rides. 5th Floor at Sindorim Techno Mart near Sindorim Stn. (line 2). 10:30 am - 7 pm. Closed Mon. W10,000 - W15,000. playcocomong.com 1544-9033 Through August 28th Seoul Kids Motor Show A wonderful experience for kids with pump trolleys to push, go karts to race, and a traffic safety hall to explore. Special Exhibit Hall at Jamsil Stadium. 10 am - 6 pm. W12,000 - W15,000. kizmo.co.kr 1588-7859 June 4th - 6th SBS Wedding Expo A bridezilla’s dream come true! This expo is complete with wedding dresses, hanbok, jewelry, studios, and much more. AT Center 2 Exhibition Hall near Yangjae Stn. (line 3, ex 7). 11 am - 8 pm. sbsweddingexpo.co.kr 02-549-4312 June 6th Hantol Nanum Festival This festival mobilizes Korean young people to work together for protecting the UN-mandated rights of children around the world. Seoul Jamsil Stadium. 9 am - 6 pm. hantol.or.kr 02-2085-8151

Education & Conferences

Kukkiwon Taekwondo Demonstration Performance Every Wednesday and Saturday at 11 am, a popular martial arts performance will be presented by Kukkiwon, home of the World Taekwondo Academy. Performed at Namsangol Hanok Village near Chungmuro Stn. (lines 3 & 4, ex. 3 & 4). kukkiwon.or.kr 02-567-1058 Lunchtime Cultural Performances Every Tuesday and Thursday through October, 30-minute performances are held from 12:20 pm at the permanent outdoor stage at Global Street Plaza in Mugyo-dong, Jung-gu, (located behind City Hall near City Hall Stn. (line 1, ex. 4). Traditional dances, recitals, concerts, short dramas and magic shows attract numerous viewers at lunchtime. 02-2075-4135 Royal Horse Guard Parade at Deoksu Palace From Deoksu Palace’s Daehan Gate to Gwangtong Bridge, there will be a royal horse guard parade every Tuesday until late October. Departs from the palace’s Daehan Gate near City Hall Stn. (lines 1 & 2, ex. 2 & 12). 11 am, 2 & 3 pm. 30 min. Free. deoksugung.go.kr 02-771-9951 Traditional Culture Experience Mi Su Da You can try on hanbok (Korean traditional clothing), have a tea experience,

50 | 10 Magazine June 2011

Ongoing “Garuya Garuya” Kids’ Flour Workshop Children can familiarize themselves with flour by getting involved in walking on, making dough, and baking it. PMC Kids Hall at COEX Artium 3rd Floor. Weekday 1 pm - 4 pm. Weekends 10:20 am - 4:40 pm. W17,000 W23,000. coex.co.kr 02-738-8289 Weekly Lecture on Buddhism Curious about the practice of Zen Buddhism? English lectures by Zen Master Subul Sunim and others will prove enlightening. 2:30 - 4:30 pm every Saturday except national holidays. Anguk Zen Center, 5 minutes on foot from Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex. 2). angukzen.org 011-229-2829 Through June 30th Gran Amigo This exhibition covers not only the three South American nations of Peru, Bolivia, and Ecuador but also global partnership and related skills. KOICA World Village Exhibit Center near Yangjae Stn. (line 3, ex. 7). 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. koica.go.kr/globalvillage. html 02-3460-5800 June 1st - 2nd Korea Media & Contents Market COEX Grand Ballroom. kmcm.kotra.or.kr 02-3460-7424 June 2nd - 4th Korea World Travel Fair Companies from travel, card, and hotel industries will be represented, with folk performances livening up the proceedings. COEX C Hall. 10 am - 6 pm, Sun 10 am - 5 pm. W2,000 - W3,000. kotfa.co.kr 02-757-6161

e di t or’ s pick

Seoul International Book Fair

SEOUL

June 15th - 19th

Education

Here’s one for the bookworms. With the slogan of “Book, the eye seeing the world,” hundreds of companies and cultural institutes from all over the world will gather to introduce books from their country. The fair will feature special exhibitions, seminars, and side events. The special exhibitions deal with cultural treasures, E-square, city pictorials, pop-up books, illustrated books, and writers. The seminars will touch upon subjects like the Frankfurt book exhibition, the status of Korean books in the world, and importing copyrighted works. Participants can stay entertained with fun side events such as a humanities cafe, conversation with writers, and a workshop in which you can make pop-up books. COEX A, B Hall, near Samsung Stn. (line 2, ex. 6). 10 am - 5 pm. W1,000 - W3,000. sibf.or.kr 02-735-2701 / 02-6000-8151 June 4th - 5th Early Study Abroad & English Camp Fair It’s never too early to learn English. This expo will feature early study abroad programs, English education books, and related services. COEX A Hall. 11 am - 6 pm. campenglish.net 02-783-8261 June 8th - 10th Int’l Exhibition on Environmental Technology & Green Energy Covering the fields of renewable energy and eco-friendly industry. COEX A, B Hall. 10 am - 5 pm. envex.or.kr 02-3407-1540~3 June 8th - 10th Korea Camping & RV Show 10 am - 7 pm, Fri 10 am - 6 pm. W5,000. campingkorea.org 02-6000-7850 Security World Expo COEX Hall C. 10 am - 5 pm. W5,000. secuexpo.com 02-555-7153 June 9th - 11th Imported Goods Fair From food to fashion, all kinds of imported goods will be on display. COEX A Hall. 10 am - 6 pm. W3,000. igf.co.kr 02-792-1581 June 14th - 17th Broadcast Audio & Lighting Equipment Show 35 countries and 700 companies will be here to display next-generation broadcast services, sound equipment, and lighting. COEX Hall C, D. 10 am - 5 pm. W10,000. kobashow.com 02-551-0102 June 22nd - 24th EV & AE Technology Expo Cars, services, components, and production facilities will be on display. COEX Hall B. 10 am - 5 pm. W3,000. evkorea.kr 02-6000-6681 Green Battery Cell Expo COEX Hall B. 10 am - 5 pm. W3,000. batteryshow.co.kr 02-2051-3322

Hotel Fair The only fair for accommodations in Korea. SETEC near Hakyeoul Stn. (line 3). W3,000. hotelfair.co.kr 032-363-3500 June 22nd - 26th Korea Landscaping Expo COEX Hall A. 10 am - 6 pm. W5,000. jokyongexpo.co.kr 02-515-4800 June 29th - July 1st Smart Work & Mobile Office Fair Telecommuters can get some helpful tips at this expo. COEX Hall A. 10 am - 5 pm. smartworkfair.co.kr 02-6000-6687

Sport & Fitness 2011 K-League June 11th Seoul vs Pohang June 25th Seoul vs Incheon Both at Seoul World Cup Stadium, 8 pm. 2011 Baseball Doosan Bears at Jamsil Stadium 3rd vs Samsung Lions 6:30 pm 4th vs Samsung Lions 5pm 10th vs SK Wyverns 6:30 11th - 12th vs SK Wyverns 5pm 14th - 16th vs Nexen Heroes 6:30 pm 24th vs KIA Tigers 6:30 pm 24th - 26th vs KIA Tigers 5pm LG Twins at Jamsil Stadium 1st - 2nd vs KIA Tigers 6:30 pm 7th - 9th vs Hanwha Eagles 6:30 pm 17th vs SK Wyverns 6:30 pm 18th - 19th vs SK Wyverns 5 pm 21st - 23rd vs Nexen Heroes 6:30pm 28th - 30th vs Samsung Lions 6:30pm Nexen Heroes at Mokdong Stadium 7th - 9th vs SK Wyverns 6:30 pm 10th vs Samsung Lions 5 pm 11th - 12th vs Samsung Lions 5 pm 17th vs Lotte Giants 6:30 pm

10 Magazine June 2011 | 51

SEOUL CALENDAR e di t or’ s pick

SEOUL

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18th vs Lotte Giants 5 pm 19th vs Lotte Giants 3 pm 28th - 30th vs Doosan Bears 6:30 pm Through June 11th Namsan Million Person Walking Festival Join the citizens of Seoul for this huge community walk. Namsan Fountain Square. 9 am - 12:30 pm. Free. Register by June 11th. seoulwalking.or.kr 02-522-5446~8 June 3rd - 6th XGOLF Fair All kinds of golf-related items such as golf wear, service, accessories, and books will be available in the booths here. SETEC near Hak-yeoul Stn. (line 3). W3,000. xgolf.co.kr 1544-9017 July 2nd The 3rd Korea Adventure Race 5/40k walk, 25/50k race. Han River Park at Jamsil, 3 pm. W30,000. Register by June 17th. koreaadventure.co.kr 031-791-8341 July 3rd The 18th Dawn Riverside International Marathon 5k, 10k, half, full. Sangam-dong World Cup Stadium, 6:30 am. W15,000 - W45,000. Register by June 23rd. amarunsb.com 031-919-2446 June 6th Han River Seoul Marathon Full, half, 10 km, 5 km. Han River Park on Yeouido, 8:40 am. W40,000. Register by June 1st. hangangseoul.co.kr 1600-7331

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52 | 10 Magazine June 2011

Food & Drink

Held yearly since 2003, this is the largest scale tea festival in the country, held to popularize tea-drinking culture and connect suppliers, customers, and overseas buyers of tea. Not only public institutions and businesses but also the average Joe will be present to participate in this expo and festival. Browse through booths displaying various teas, instruments, machines, and cases. What’s that—the main events aren’t really your cup of tea? That’s nothing to get concerned about: drift away from the display area and check out the design contest exhibit for tea sets and take part in a variety of cultural activities. Hall B1 & 2 in COEX. 10 am - 6 pm. W3,000. teanews.com 02-6000-800

July 10th The 5th Namsan Hot Summer Marathon Half and full. Namsan, 8 am. W35,000. Limited space, sign up now. matarun.com/summer

June 11th Boramae Park Marathon 5k, 10k, half, and full. Boramae Park near Sindaebang Stn., 7:30 am. W15,000 - W25,000. Register by June 8th. tourmarathon.com 02-1644-4219

Dine & Drink Ongoing Homemade Italian Luncheons Enjoy delicious Italian cuisine in a relaxing environment with Club Italia Seoul. Located at the Franciscan Foreign Kindergarten (franciscanfk.com) next to the Italian Embassy between Hannam Stn. (line 6) and Hangangjin Stn. (line 3). RSVP required. Each Sunday at 1 pm. W15,000. Search for “Club Italia Seoul” on Facebook. clubitalia.or.kr, clubitaliaseul@gmail.com Korean Cooking Classes and Market Tour Learn authentic Korean cuisine in English from a Korean chef. Classes held at the O’ngo Cooking Studio near Insadong (Nakwon Sangga). Classes include bulgogi, kimchi, and more. Mon – Fri. 10 am, 2 pm. ongofood.com 02-3446-1607 Korean Night Dining Tour Take a crash course on Korea’s late-night food and drinking culture. Start at Jongno 3-ga and end at Gwangjang Market while eating and drinking Korean favorites such as BBQ, rice wine, and spicy octopus.W88,000 per person (minimum of 3). 6 – 10pm. ongofood.com 02-3446-1607 Korea Taste Tour This 2-hour walking food tour will show you the real Korea as

we seek out classic shops, street stalls, and restaurants. The tour starts with a cooking demonstration and tasting at O’ngo Culinary School. Then we’ll head to a market and walk the streets and the winding alleys of Seoul while tasting and snacking at each stop. 11 – 1 pm. ongofood.com 02-3446-1607 Saturday Korean Cooking Classes The chefs at O’ngo Culinary School give you a deeper understanding of Korean cuisine. Watch their demonstration and then try making your own. 6/4 sundubu and seafood pancakes, 6/11 mandu and bibimguksu 6/18 banchan and doenjang jjigae. W55,000 per class, and W150,000 for three classes. Saturday 11 am. ongofood.com 02-3446-1607

June 2nd - 5th Superior School Food & Dining Out Industry Exhibition COEX A Hall. 11 am - 6 pm, Sun 11 am - 4 pm. W5,000. foodservicefair.com 02-515-4855 Tea World Festival Stay healthy while learning more about tea culture. Halls B1 & 2 in COEX at Samseong Stn. (line 2, ex. 5 & 6). 10 am - 6 pm. W3,000. teanews. com 02-6000-8000

Travel Ongoing Palace Tours Youth volunteers are your guides at these free English tours at Deoksugung Palace, taking place every 2nd and 4th Saturday at 10 am & 2:30 pm.Admission to the palace is W1,000. ici@icworld.or.kr 02-3210-3266 June 1st Hiking at Inwang-san with SIWA Meeting point Hongje Stn. (line 3, ex.1). 9:30 am. SIWA members W5,000, non-members W8,000. siwapage.com June 2nd Insadong Korean Taste Tour Join adventure food tour that will show you the authentic Korea while visiting shops and restaurants. Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex.4). 11 am. Siwa members w50,000, non-members W55,000. siwapage.com June 4th - 6th Hong-do and Heuksan-do Islands Tour Visit the southwestern islands of Heuksan-do and Hong-do, which are famous for the pink rock formations along the coast. W50,000 deposit, approx. W328,000 altogether. raskb.com 02-763-9483

June 12th Hiking and Cruising in Danyang Area Start by visiting Gosu Cave, enjoy a cruise on Chungju Lake, and go hiking in the beautiful national park at Worak Mountain. W49,500. raskb.com June 18th - 19th Tongyeong City and Geoje-do Tour A chance to explore some of Korea’s most outstanding scenery—the beautiful island of Geoje-do and the Hallyo Waterway. W50,000 deposit, approx. W228,000 altogether. raskb.com July 2nd - 3rd Wan-do and Jin-do Islands Tour Spend a weekend on the unspoiled and rural extreme southern tip of the Korean peninsula, visiting the scenic islands of Wan-do, Bokil-do and Jin-do. Approx. W198,000. raskb.com

SEOUL

June 1st - 5th Korea International Noodle Festival Various unique noodle dishes will be served up at this noodle event. COEX Hall D. 10 am - 6 pm. kinf.co.kr 02-780-0843

Sudeoksa Temple Stay This temple stay offers a unique experience for all to live in a temple for a short period of time and learn about Korean culture and the lifestyle of Buddhist monks. W89,000. adventurekorea.com

July 7th - 11th Mongolia Tour with Nadaam Festival A great five-day tour of a beautiful and fascinating nation, whose history and culture are intimately connected to Korea’s. W1,895,000. raskb.com

Nightlife Parties at Club Answer 6/4: Diamond Party. 6/10: Urbanoid by Escape Korea. 6/17: Afternoon Party. 6/18: Hunters Party. 6/24: Housegraphy Party. 6/25: Maxim Party. Cheongdam-dong. clubanswer.co.kr 02-514-4311 Parties at Club Mansion 6/4: Diamond Party. 6/10: Urbanoid by Escape Korea. 6/17: Afternoon Party. 6/18: Hunters Party. 6/24: Housegraphy Party. 6/25: Maxim Party. Hongdae. 02-3143-4037 mansionseoul@gmail.com Parties at Club Volume 6/2: PPP Casino Royale Martini. 6/4: Cocalime Launching Party Korea. 6/10: DJ Mag Top 100 N7 Gareth Emery. 6/30: PPP Mojito Night. Club Volume near Itaewon & Noksapyeong Stn. clubvolume.com 02-794-0257 Quiz Night at Craftworks Every Wednesday. Great prizes including W50,000 bar tab for 1st place. craftworkstaphouse.com 02-794-2537 Rhyme Time: Spoken Word and Poetry Every 2nd and 4th Thursday, head to Tony’s Aussie Bar in Itaewon for a literary evening. 8 pm. tonysitaewon.com 02-790-0793

Geomun-do and Baek-do Islands Tour Located far south of the peninsula, between the mainland and Jeju island, these islands offer a rare opportunity to explore the breathtaking scenery that has been chosen as a must-see by Koreans. W329,000. adventurekorea.com

Stand Up Seoul Comedy Night Korea’s finest English language comedians deliver monologues and rants about expat life and other topics. New acts are welcome! The show starts at 9 pm on every first Thursday of each month at the Rocky Mountain Tavern in Itaewon. Facebook: Stand Up Seoul, james. hershberger@gmail.com

June 11th - 12th Seonyu-do Bike Trip The picturesque south of Jeolla province has a lot to offer. The beaches, forests, and cliffs at Seonyu-do will keep everyone happy. W109,000. adventurekorea.com

Sunday Funday Seoul’s newest open mic comedy night, held on the 2nd and 4th Sunday of each month. Head down to the basement of the newly renovated Phillies Pub in Haebangchon at 7:30 (sign up at 7 pm). ekweber2@yahoo.com

The Weekly 10 10 Magazine’s Free Weekly Events Email Be the first to know about the hottest events happening all over the country each week. Sign up at www.10mag.com/weekly10 10 Magazine June 2011 | 53

SEOUL DIRECTORY Kim’s Guesthouse Hongdae kimsguesthouse.com 02-337-9894 Namu Guesthouse Hongdae namugh.co.kr 070-8291-4878 Olympic Parktel Jamsil parktel.co.kr/english 02-410-2114 Seoul Backpackers Myeongdong seoulbackpackers.com 02-3672-1972

Seoul Foreigner Assistance

Insurance

Classes

SEOUL

ATEK (Association for Teachers of English in Korea) atek.or.kr Seoul Dasan (City Info) 02-120 Seoul Global Center global.seoul.go.kr 02-1688-0120 Yeoksam English 02-3453-9038 Yeonnam Chinese 02-6406-8151 Seorae French 02-570-6009 Ichon Japanese 02-2199-8882 Itaewon/Hannam English 02-2199-8883~5

Religious

Accessories

On hats & luggage tags

Only takes 1 minute

Samsung Fire and Marine Insurance Automobile and motorcycle insurance provided by one of Korea’s most reliable conglomerates. Also available; Life/ Annuities, Business/Fire, Supplemental Medical, Travel Insurance. 010-3232-0625 Legal Assistance

Noksapyeong Itaewon McDonald’s Market

Burger King Hannam-dong International Arcade

02-796-9052 Ambrosia Customized Embroidery You write it, he’ll sew it! It only takes a minute to have your name or message embroidered on hats, luggage tags, backpacks, T-shirts, ties and jackets. 56-9, Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. mrnameonhat.co.kr 02-796-9052 Travel Agencies

Cosmo.jin Tour cosmojin.com 02-318-0345 Fides Travel fidestravel.co.kr 02-755-5470 JNC Travel Itaewon Itching to travel? This travel agent offers worldwide discount air tickets, hotels, professional counseling, and package goods. Mon - Fri 10 am - 7 pm, Sat 10 am - 5 pm, Sun 1 - 5 pm. 02-796-9633 Unique Travel Itaewon uniquetravel.co.kr 02-792-0606 Xanadu Travel xanadu.co.kr 02-795-7771 Korean Tours

Adventure Korea adventurekorea.com 018-242-5536 Korean Safari koreansafari.com 019-542-2955 Korean Cooking Classes with Ms. Chang Want to do more than sightseeing? How about taking a Korean cooking class? This is your chance to experience the everyday meals of a Korean family. koreancookingclasses. blogspot.com 010-7193-2068 O’ngo Culinary Tours Korean food tours and cooking classes in Seoul. Tours and classes are taught by Korean food experts. Experience the culture through the cuisine. ongofood.com 010-6661-7769 Royal Asiatic Society Korea Branch raskb.com 02-763-9483 USO DMZ Tours affiliates.uso.org/korea 02-795-3028 WOW Corea Tour wowcoreatour.com 02-739-3337

54 | 10 Magazine June 2011

Museum of Korean Traditional Music ncktpa.go.kr 02-580-3130 National Folk Museum nfm.go.kr 02-3704-3114 National Museum of Korea museum.go.kr 02-2077-9000 National Palace Museum of Korea gogung.go.kr 02-3701-7500 Seoul Art Center sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Seoul Museum of Art seoulmoa.seoul.go.kr 02-120 Seoul National Science Museum ssm.go.kr 02-3668-2200 War Memorial warmemo.or.kr 02-709-3139

A Few Good Laywers

US & Korean Attorneys Civil & Criminal

JM Law Group Hard to find a good lawyer in Korea? We at JM Law Group will fight for your legal rights from employment disputes to business transactions. For a free consultation, please email us at kkim@jmlaw.co.kr Radio

TBS eFM FM 101.3 American Forces Network AM 1530 / FM 102.7 Transportation

International Taxi (English Speaking) 1644-2255 Jumbo Taxi Service (more expensive) 02-888-2000 Interactive Subway Map smrt.co.kr Hotels/Accommodations

KoreaHotel.com Korea’s version of Expedia. koreahotel.com 4-5 Star Hotels Astoria 02-2268-7111 COEX InterContinental 02-3452-2500 Courtyard 02-2638-3000 Grand InterContinental 02-555-5656 JW Marriott 02-6282-6262 Millenium Hilton 02-753-7788 Renaissance 02-555-0501 Ritz-Carlton 02-3451-8000 Hostels Guest House Baenang Yongsan ghbaenang.com 010-9071-4641 Guesthouse Korea Jongno guesthouseinkorea.com 02-3674-2205 Bebop Guesthouse Hongdae bebop-guesthouse.com, 070-8261-4835

Access Consciousness What if the life you imagined was actually possible? Regular classes held in Seoul & around Korea. Contact Nate at 010-6285-6283 or nhkent@gmail.com Bikram Yoga Gangnam Feel the 105°F heat of the original Bikram Yoga with 90-minute classes taught by passionate instructors. Behind the Kyobo Tower building, Sinnonhyeon Stn. (line 9, ex. 7). bikramyogakorea. co.kr 02-532-2101 Bellydance Lessons with Eshe Morning, afternoon, and evening classes, plus Sunday classes at the Well Being Studio. navah@live.com Fine Art Class Myeongdong 7 -1 pm Fridays. cafe.daum.net/artd 02-771-2026 Ballet Stretching Itaewon Dance your days away with a diverse selection of classes available: child ballet, yoga, tae bo, yoga for pregnant women, pilates, diet dance, and even salsa classes. Private training available. Mon–Fri open 9 am–10 pm. 124-7 Itaewon-dong, yongsan-gu. 010-9309-9021 International Guides of Korea Courses in ice climbing, rock climbing and more. iguidekorea.com Jai Center for Yoga and Health jaicenter.co.kr 02-3443-9642 Pottery Classes at Yido Academy Gahoe-dong in Seoul. Fri 10 - 12 am. yidostyle@hanmail.net 02-744-0756 Salsa Lessons in English Top Bar near Apgujeong St. Call Crys at 010-4755-4728 Sanirang Alpine Networks This climbing service offers lessons, clinics, and guided tours. sanirang.net/about. html, info@sanirang.net Suseonjae Meditation and Deep Breathing Classes jihye@suseonjae.org 019-201-5958 Wise-Up Workouts Lose weight and get lean in less than 30 days guaranteed? Author and creator of the No. 1 gym-free program is now in Korea. 1 to 1 service. Grab the book “Wise-Up Workouts” at www. wiseupworkouts.com 010-4998-8722 Museums

Gahoe Museum gahoemuseum.org 02-741-0466 World Jewelry Museum wjmuseum.com 02-730-1610 Kimchi Field Museum kimchimuseum.co.kr 02-6002-6456 Kyung-in Museum of Fine Art Kyunginart.co.kr 02-733-4448 Leeum Samsung Museum of Art leeum.org 02-2014-6901

Buddhist Seoul International Zen Center seoulzen.org 02-900-4326 Vairocana International Buddhist Meditation Center 02-735-5347 Jetavana Meditation Center jetavanacenter@gmail.com 02-595-5115 Catholic Bomun 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Chunma 02-765-0870 Dongducheon 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Hannam International Church English, Italian, Spanish, French 02-793-2070 Hyewha-dong Catholic Church 02-764-0221 (press 6) Jinjob 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Keumchon 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Philippine Center Tagalog 02-765-0870 Pastral Center for Labor English, Vietnamese, Thai 02-924-2721 Salesio Labor Center Tagalog, Daelim 1 dong 02-765-0870 Sung-dong Social Welfare Center Tagalog 02-765-0870 Yoksam-dong Church 02-553-0801 Catholics in South Korea Facebook Group, Annamarie at sunshineamore25@gmail.com Islam Seoul Central Masjid 02-794-7307 Protestant Gwanglim Church 02-2056-5732 International Lutheran 02-794-6274 Jubilee Church 02-569-2293 Kumnan Church 02-490-7000 Myungsung Presbyterian 02-440-9000 New Philadelphia Church newphiladelphiachurch.com 02-706-2501 Onnuri Church 02-793-9686 Presbyterian Church of the Lord empcl.org 010-2266-6453 Somang Presbyterian 02-512-9191 Seoul Union Church 02-333-7393 Yoido Full Gospel Church 02-782-4851 Yongsan Baptist Church 02-796-0284 Medical Services

A Plus Dental aplusdental.co.kr 02-3442-7616 Hus Hu Dental & Skin Clinic hus-hu.com 02-519-8013 Jaseng Hospital of Oriental Medicine Are you suffering from back or neck pain? Visit the non-surgical spinal specialists. jaseng.net 02-3218-2167 Korea Counseling Psychological Association krcpa.or.kr 02-498-8293 Korea HIV/AIDS Prevention & Support Center khap.org 02-927-4322 New York Wholistic Care Dr. Vincent Jong, an experienced New York chiropractor, uses pilates/yoga and body balancing therapy to help you reenergize

your mind and achieve optimal health. F2, 736-21 Hannam-dong, Yongsangu. nywc.co.kr 02-792-2296 Ra Dental Clinic 02-569-8745 Tufts Dental Clinic 02-553-7512

classic tapas along with an unbeatable bar. The floor-to-ceiling window door-walls open wide, making it the perfect place to be for their delicious weekend brunch. geckosterrace.com 02-795-9656 EST 1894 Burgers are cooked up on the special rotagrill. Located just behind the Itaewon Market. 2nd Fl. 34-25 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. est1894.com 02-792-1894 The Frypan 02-794-5598 Gallery Through Head here to enjoy fantastic meals, parties, art, and people. 02-798-1900

What happens when... SEOUL

wine importer a direct premium meets up with a...

WY Dentistry Gangnam Better than your dentist back home. Dr. Yoo is a US-trained and licensed dentist with over 20 years of clinical dental experience serving the expat community since 1996. wydent.com 02-514-5575 Cafes

Caffé Bene Whether it’s coffee, gelato, or a waffle you’re looking for, you can find it at one of the 400 Caffé Bene outlets across Korea. caffebene.co.kr 02-3438-6888

Gecko’s Terrace The original Itaewon foreigner hangout, with a comfortable atmosphere, delicious food including great sandwiches, salads and pasta, and English-speaking staff that know how to make cocktails and shots right. geckosterrace.com 02-749-9425 Gecko’s Garden Legendary for its gorgeous home-style atmosphere, Gecko’s Garden has now started offering a delicious buffet, with steaks and pasta made to order. Don’t worry; the tapas menu is also still alive and well. geckosterrace.com 02-790-0540 Hollywood Grill The place for Premier League Football and other sports, Hollywood has a great menu of pizza, pasta and steaks along with darts, foosball, pool and Golden Tee. hollywoodgrill.co.kr 02-749-1659 Naked Grill Terrific Mexican food, salads and steaks, cooked up to order in a trendy atmosphere. 02-749-4225 Pancakes Original Story Itaewon Mon – Sat 9 am – 10 pm. 02-794-0508 Pita Time Haebangchon The salads, pitas and pizzas here provide a low-calorie, healthy meal. 11 am - 10 pm. pitatime.co.kr 02-790-8891

professional German baker who introduces Them to a...

rter meat impo .. top quality brings in a. who then

Gourmet natura l cheese distributo r...

HSM's three basic promises to our valuable customers: 1) always something new 2) always something free 3) always something special

Caribou Coffee Popular in America, Caribou Coffee has expanded to Korea with locations at Ewha University, Sinchon, Yangjae, and Incheon Airport. Support fair trade with the Rainforest Alliance Certified coffee sold here. cariboukorea.co.kr 02-3461-5680

Exit #1

Restaurants

American Chili King Itaewon Beefy burgers and chili served up by owner Kevin Cyr. 02-795-1303 Bonji Bistro Just behind Itaewon Hotel and under Gecko’s Garden, Bonji Bistro offers a terrific menu of salads, sandwiches, pastas and

The Pizza Peel Itaewon Offering fresh classic Italian and Western-style pizzas. Enjoy with beer or wine. We are hard to find but easy to remember! Dine in or take out. 02-795-3283 Suji’s Itaewon Great American fare in a New York-style bistro atmosphere. sujis.net 02-797-3698

A dv e r t i s e i n o u r D i r e c to ry ! It’s inexpensive and helps expats and tourists find YOU! marketing@10mag.com or 02-3447-1610

Hangangjin Station

High Street Market (2nd floor)

HIGH STREET MARKET

IP Boutique Hotel Japan Plaza Buy the Way Exit #2 Cheil Building 제일기획

PARK HERE

Hannam-dong Community Center Parking Lot

Itaewon Station Subway: Line 2 to Itaewon Station exit #2 Go straight and High Street Market is on your left Line 6 Hangangjin Station exit #1 Go straight and High Street Market will be on your right

10 Magazine June 2011 | 55

SEOUL DIRECTORY

SEOUL

T.G. Brunch Cafe Chef Choi from Hawaii serves a delightful brunch along with his signature burgers, sandwiches, and more. Wine W2,500 for ladies. Wednesdays wing night: 10 for W3,000. 02-749-8005 Toque Itaewon 02-794-3834 Austrian Chef Meili Itaewon 02-797-3820 BRAZILIAN Copacabana Itaewon For only W29,000 you get all-you-can-eat of 7 different cuts of roasted meat and a tremendous Brazilian buffet. Make your reservations today! 02-796-1660 Bulgarian Zelen Itaewon 02-749-0600 Chinese Ho Lee Chow Serving up the best North American-style Chinatown cuisine in Korea since 1998, with 5 convenient locations in the greater Seoul area to serve you. holeechow.co.kr. Itaewon 02-793-0802, Apgujeong 02-514-1730 Jamshil 02-411-0688, Dogok 02-34614468, Bundang 02-711-9071 French La Cigale Monmartre Itaewon 02-796-1244 Le Saint-Ex Itaewon 02-795-2465 Italian

style barbecue at locations throughout Seoul including Gangnam, Myeongdong (02-319-3351), Seoul Station, and Times Square. 11:30 am - 10 pm. bulgogibros.com Maple Tree House (단풍나무집) Itaewon Classy Korean BBQ in the alley just behind the Hamilton Hotel (other branches are located in Samcheongdong and Dogok-dong). 116-1 Itaewondong, Yongsan-gu. 02-790-7977 Pulhyanggi Gangnam A tasty concoction of traditional Korean dishes and a contemporary slow-food sensibility, plus performances in the evenings. Close to COEX. 11 am – 10 pm. pulhyanggi.co.kr 02-539-3390 Mexican Amigos Itaewon 02-795-9711 On the Border The #1 American chain hits that craving for fajitas, chimichangas, tacos, burritos, enchiladas and even margaritas. ontheborder.co.kr Sinchon: 02-324-0682 COEX: 02-565-0682 Times Square: 02-2672-0682 Pancho’s Itaewon 02-792-4767 Taco Amigo Itaewon 02-749-5253 Tomatillo Grill Locations at Jonggak Stn., Samseong Stn., and Yeoksam Stn. tomatillo.co.kr 02-734-9225 Middle Eastern Istanbul Noksapyeong 02-796-0271 Marakech Nights Itaewon 02-795-9441 Petra Itaewon 02-790-4433 SPANISH Bodega Jamsil With flamenco on every Friday. bodega.co.kr 02-3432-8686 Thai Buddha’s Belly Itaewon A lounge atmosphere with full bar and cocktails along with great authentic Thai food. 02-796-9330 Eat Me Itaewon Thai fusion dining and lounge, late night kitchen in Itaewon. Relax in the intimate yet casual dining area and outside patio. Sophisticated atmosphere is sure to please. 070-7624-3149 My Thai Itaewon 02-794-8090 Thai Orchid Itaewon 02-517-1135 Thai Garden Itaewon 02-792-8836 Wang Thai Itaewon Prepared by locally trained chefs, Wang Thai offers only the best of Thai food. Enjoy delicious food in an exotic ambience. 02-749-2746~7 Gourmet Foods

Antonio’s Cheongdamdong Join chef Sebastiano Giangregorio for an authentic Italian culinary experience. Live jazz performances Friday and Saturday at 7:30. 93-8 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnamgu. antonios.kr 02-3443-4333 Fradia Gangnam Gaze out on a panoramic view of the Seoul skyline as you dine on choice Italian food at this cafe floating on the Han River. fradia.co.kr 02-3477-0033 La Bocca Itaewon We can’t decide whether it’s a cafe, pastry shop, deli, or wine bar, but what we are sure about is that the food is fresh and the taste is divine. labocca.co.kr 02-790-5907 Sortino’s Cucina Itaewon Classic Italian trattoria cuisine in a comfortable, homey atmosphere. 02-797-0488 Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong 02-790-0776 Villa Sortino’s Itaewon An incredible Tuscan Villa interior matches perfectly with some delicately prepared Italian flavors. Just across from the Itaewon fire station. 02-553-9000 korean Bulgogi Brothers Delicious Korean-

56 | 10 Magazine June 2011

High Street Market Itaewon Freshbaked bread, choice beef cuts, imported cheese, and value-for-money wines, and all in Bars/Lounges/Pubs

Wine Bars Dulce Y Suave Garosugil Stop by this classy Sinsa-dong wine bar for an extensive wine list that won’t break your budget. 5 pm - 3 am. club.cyworld.com/ dulceysuave. 02-515-6750 Vin Ga Apgujeong Immaculate service and a subdued atmosphere make this the wine bar of choice for dinner parties and business meetings. Podo Plaza building near Apgujeong St. podoplaza.co.kr 02-516-1761 Lounges / PUBS 3 Alley Pub Itaewon Rub shoulders with long-term Seoul expats and try your hands at darts or pool in this comfortable foreigner-owned pub. 116-15 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. 3alleypub.com 02-749-3336 Bar Rouge Itaewon Luxurious wine and tapas bar in the basement of the JW Marriot in Gangnam. Happy hour Tue - Thu 6 - 9 pm. 02-6282-6763

SEOUL DIRECTORY

TWO GREAT LOCATIONS

B AR SHINCHON TEL:(02)3339733

PIZZA ITAEWON

Hongdae 6 pm – 5 am, 마포구 서교동 409-1, B1, 02-3141-5571. Itaewon 7 pm – 5 am, 용산구 이태원동 119-10, B1, bricx.com 02-795-5572 The Bungalow Itaewon This quirky beach-themed bar has sand on the floor, swinging chairs, and candle-lit rooms. 02-793-2344 Coffee Bar K Cheongdam-dong A Japanese franchise, they may just have the best bartenders in town. Mon – Sat 6 pm - 2 am. 02-516-1970

TEL:(02)7920007

SEOUL

IBK BANK

NOKSAPYEONG STATION

w w w.b eeroclock.c a Beer O’Clock The bar in Sinchon has darts and several sports on big-screen TVs with great food. The Kyeongnidan location will satisfy your Canadian-style pizza needs. Beer O’Clock serves up good times. Sinchon: 02-333-9733 Berlin Noksapyeong Combining a restaurant, cafe and lounge, Berlin boasts a varied menu, plus wines and all types of music. Noksapyeong St. (line 6). 457-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. awakeinseoul@gmail.com 02-749-0903

The Concorde Classic and cozy, this wine and martini bar offers an intimate and timeless atmosphere. Reuben sandwiches, quiche, soups and salads available till 1:00 am. 02-749-1210 Craftworks Tabhouse Itaewon Whet your whistle with fine craft beers including Korea’s first IPA, and stave off your appetite with some great eats. craftworkstaphouse.com 02-794-ALES Dillinger’s A classic-styled bar with seven beers on tap, great food and drink specials. Come enjoy our large flatscreen TVs, dartboards and Wii games. A great atmosphere for you and your friends. 02-793-7232 Hollywood Grill Itaewon One of Itaewon’s oldest sports bars, it also has some of Itaewon’s finest pub grub. 123-33 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. 02-749-1659 Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong Great home-style Italian cuisine with late night cocktail lounge. 02-790-0776

B1 Itaewon One of the most hopping bars in Itaewon on any given night, with guest DJs and a good vibe. 7 pm - 3 am. 02-749-6164

Between Itaewon This multi-level lounge serves contemporary Italian and Spanish mains, lunch, brunch and tapas in a sophisticated atmosphere with live DJs and a spacious terrace. 124-7 Yongsan-gu, Itaewon-dong. 02-795-6164 Bliss Itaewon Fresh beats by DJ Shine and a reasonably priced menu. Itaewon. 4 pm – 4 am. 02-798-1125 BricX Hongdae, Itaewon Chill out at either of BricX’s two locations.

Phillies The legendary local’s bar is now remodeled and under new ownership. Great burgers and wings. 02-793-2548 Platoon Kunsthalle Apgujeong Showcasing underground artists and a fine selection of cutting-edge performances. 11 am – 1 am. Closed Sun. 97-22 Gangnam-gu, Nonhyeondong. kunsthalle.com 02-3447-1191 Rocky Mountain Tavern Itaewon Canadians feel right at home with all the hockey jerseys hanging on the walls and great live music and events, along with some of the best buffalo wings in Korea. Don’t miss the Stand Up Seoul comedy night the first Thursday of each month. rockymountaintavern.com 010-5775-2327 Roofers Itaewon Come hang out in a warm, friendly atmosphere. Sample the mouthwatering menu, relax on the spacious rooftop and enjoy numerous expat events. Facebook: Roofers Rooftop Bar. 02-749-2970

GOOD FOOD

GOOD TIMES LO C AT I O N S

Itaewon Jukjeon Busan Jeju

Gecko’s Terrace, Bonji Bistro, Gecko’s Garden Gecko’s Uyeong Plaza Tel 031 262 9974 Haeundae Beach Pale de CZ Tel 051 747 3069 Island Gecko’s Jungmun Tel 064 739 0845

10 Magazine June 2011 | 57

SEOUL DIRECTORY Sam Ryan’s Itaewon This newcomer to the Itaewon scene offers sports fans eight flat screens throughout the bar along with the meanest plate of pork ribs to be found in Seoul. samryans.com 02-749-7933 Scrooge Pub/Dicken’s Lounge Itaewon A great little sports bar with pool, darts, delicious food and plenty of English-speaking staff. 02-797-8201

SEOUL Seoul Pub Crawl Meet cool people, play drinking games and party all night long. Where the bars get louder, the drinks get cheaper and the people get better looking. www.seoulpubcrawl. webs.com 010-5839-9257 Seventy Four Cheongdam-dong A beautiful date spot featuring exotic drinks such as cheese martinis, banana mojitos and cuba libres. 7 pm – 4 am. 02-542-7412

love is back. clubanswer.co.kr 02-514-4311 Ben @Blue Spirit Hongdae Great Japanese curry during the day and soju cocktails at night. Hit up the weekend parties. 360-18 Seokyo-Dong, Mapo-Gu. 02-3142-5301 Eden Gangnam Mega club with top DJs, sizzling sound, and model nights. 역삼동 602 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnamgu, Ritz Carlton Hotel. eden-club.co.kr 010-9913-3919 Function Itaewon The boutique club hidden in the fancy Macaroni Market restaurant. Tue, Wed, Thu 6 pm – 2:30 am; Fri and Sat 6 pm-3:30 am. 737-50 Hannnam1-dong Yongsan-gu. 02-749-9181 Heaven Gangnam The newest member of Seoul’s club scene combines top-notch technology with divine DJs spinning house and electro beats. W30,000 general admission, W40,000 for after club hours. Near Yeoksam St. clubheaven.co.kr 02-3444-4997 J.J. Mahoney’s The drinks don’t come cheap, but this nightclub at the Grand Hyatt is a favorite with the over-30s crowd. 747-7 Hannam 2-dong. seoul.grand.hyatt.com 02-797-1234 Koobar @Blue Spirit Apgujeong Hip music for a classy crowd. 664-11 Shinsadong, Gangnam-gu. 02-518-5115 Volume Itaewon A true “music lovers” club, Volume is found in the basement of Crown Hotel. Fri and Sat 9 pm - 6 am. W15,000 - W30,000. Crown Hotel B1 clubvolume.com 1544-2635 Live Music

Jazz All That Jazz Itaewon 02-795-5701 Cheonnyeondongando (천년동안도) Daehangno (Hyehwa St. Line4) chunnyun.com 02-743-5555 Club Evans Hongdae clubevans.com 02-337-8361 Club Palm Hongdae clubpalm.co.kr 02-336-9016 Once in a Blue Moon Apgujeong onceinabluemoon.co.kr 02-549-5490

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Massage

Healing Hands Massage Studio healinghands.co.kr 070-7504-8090 Beauty

Jay’s Hairdressing Itaewon. Stylists trained at Tony&Guy and Vidal Sassoon Academy bring out the best in your hair. 2F 126-17 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. 070-4227-6158

All staff are qualified by VIDAL SASSOON.

Become a model and get a FREE make over. Mon~Sat: 10 am–9 pm Appointment only Tel. 02-512-3798~9

Marie&M Gangnam The right haircut makes all the difference! All staff at this salon are qualified by Vidal Sassoon. 02-512-3798 Tony&Guy Whether it’s a cut, highlight, low light, or hair spa that you want, you’re guaranteed to get professional service from the English-speaking stylists at Toni & Guy. Near Hongik University. 02-338-2773 Relocation

Tony’s Aussie Bar & Bistro Itaewon Home of W6000 Guinness & Kilkenny on tap. Non–smoking environment with authentic Aussie food, beer & wine with Monday open mic and Wednesday comedy night. tonysitaewon.com 02-790-0793 Wolfhound Itaewon Terrific Irish/British classic food in a true Irish Pub atmosphere, including shepherd’s pie, toad in a hole, fish n’ chips, bangers n’ mash along with Guinness and Kilkenny on draft. wolfhoundpub.com 02-749-7971 Clubs

Club Hamilton Hotel Fire Station

n Statio

Itaewo

KB Bank

InterContinental Hotel

Police Station

Oakwood Premier Woori Bank

[ Itaewon Station Exit 3 ] Tel: 793.2333

America Latina Itaewon opens at 8 pm Wednesdays to Sundays and offers Salsa classes. Check Facebook group: Club America Latina in Seoul. Answer Cheongdam-dong After a short-lived stint as gala restaurant Le Nuit Blanche, the club we all know and

Teheranno

COEX

Rock Freebird Hongdae cafe.navercom/ clubfreebird 02-335-4576 Jammers Hongdae jammers.co.kr 02- 325-3914 Just Blues Apgujeong justblues.co.kr 02-542-4788 SoundHolic Hongdae cafe.daum.net/ SoundHolic 02-3142-4233

Crown Relocation Worldwide When your family is looking to move, trust LINE Line 22 your worldly possessions to the Samseong CV2011SG_May_pr003.indd 1 23/05/2011 15:33:40 Stn. professionals at Crown. 02-796-5717

Hyundai Department Store

Tokyo Jazz Authentic jazz music performed Mon-Sat, 9:30 pm - 12:30 am by European, American, and Korean musicians. Two minute’s walking distance from the COEX and Grand InterContinental Hotels. 153-44 Samsung-dong. 02-3453-4472

To inquire about getting a logobox for your business, email to us at marketing@10mag.com

CHUNGCHEONG CALENDAR Art Through June 3rd Professor Wang Yeol Exhibition He majored in Eastern painting at Hongik University, and the world of his work reflects Asian values and their modern interpretation. Limlip Art Museum in Gongju. 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. W3,000. limlipmuseum.org 041-856-7749

(snapper) at much cheaper prices than big cities. Maryangpo-gu, Seocheon-gun. seocheon.go.kr/html/tour/ 041-950-4020

CHUNGCHEONG PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance

June 4th - 6th Hansan Ramie Fabric Cultural Festival Seocheon is noted for its Hansan mosi (ramie fabric), and this event is held to develop this ancient clothing tradition. Mosikwan at Hansan Mosi Village in Seocheon-gun. 10 am - 6 pm. W1,000. seocheon.go.kr/html/tour/ festival 041-950-4256

Daejeon International Community Center dicc.or.kr 042-223-0789 Daejeon jungwonh@hotmail.com

Family & Community

O-World Amusement Park Daejeon oworld.kr 042-580-4820 Kumdori Land Daejeon kumdori.co.kr 042-862-4000

June 18th - 19th Palbong Mountain Potato Festival From morning to night, take part in unique experiences like a potato quiz contest and a peeling contest. Parking lot at Palbong Mountain in Yangil-ri. W6,000 - W10,000. potato.seosan.go.kr 041-662-6300 June 19th - July 5th Taean Lily Festival Taean is a center of the flower cultivation industry, and there are a lot of exhibit halls and activities. Lily Festival Event Hall in Taean-gun. W4,000 - W8,000. happylily.com 041-675-7881

Sport & Fitness K-League Football 2011 K-League June 25th Daejeon vs Suwon Daejeon World Cup Stadium, 7 pm KBO Baseball Games are held at Daejeon Stadium, home of the Hanwha Eagles 1st - 2nd vs Samsung Lions 6:30 pm 3rd vs Samsung Lions 6:30 pm 4th vs Samsung Lions 5 pm 14th - 16th vs KIA Tigers 6:30 pm 17th vs Doosan Bears 6:30 pm 18th - 19th vs Doosan Bears 5 pm 24th vs Doosan Bears 6:30 pm 25th - 26th vs Doosan Bears 5 pm Ongoing Daesungsan Survival Game Field Head out to the wild to enjoy some exciting games and sports. Great for group outings and leadership training. Byeolgok-ri, Danyang-eup, Danyang-gun. 120 min. Adult W25,000. cbtour.net 043-423-5600 Midongsan MTB Town The Midongsan arboretum has cycling courses for amateurs and experts and many MTB national conventions are also held at this site. 20 Miwon-ri, Miwon-myeon, Cheongwon-gun. 10 am - 5 pm. cbtour.net 043-220-5881 June 25th Boryeong Imhae Half Marathon Half, 10 km, 5 km. 9 am. W10,000 - W30,000. Register by June 10th. brcityrun.com 041-932-6303

Dine & Drink Through June 3rd Seocheon Gwangeo and Domi Festival This festival offers fish lovers some fresh gwangeo (flatfish) and domi

Classes Yegok Natural Dye Workshop Okcheon-gun Dye clothing or make natural soap. yegok.co.kr 043-733-0978

Entertainment

Religious Service

CHUNGCHEONG

Through June 4th Danyang Cheoljjuk Festival Royal azalea, or cheoljjuk in Korea, blooms all over Sobaek Mountain and looks rather like a pink jeogori (traditional jacket). Namhan River and Sobaek Mountain in Danyanggun. event.dy21.net 043-420-3388

disc ov er y

Central Presbyterian Church Nonsan 041-736-1002 Presbyterian Church Cheonan 041-555-5100 Central Presbyterian Church Gongju 041-855-0691 Sanseong Church Daejeon jungwonh@hotmail.com 042-585-8111

Museums Alcohol Museum: Liquorium Chungju liquorium.com 043-855-7333 Gonam Shell Mound Museum Taean-gun Anmyeon Island museum.taean.go.kr 041-670-2337 Jincheon Bell Museum Jincheon-gun jincheonbell.net 043-539-3850 Korea Traditional Architecture Museum Yesan-gun English site: ktam.or.kr 041-337-5877

Hotels/Accommodations New Korea Hotel Asan 041-542-8151 Onyang Hot Spring Hotel Asan 041-545-2141 Cheonan Central Hotel Cheonan 041-564-9100 Yuseong Hotel Daejeon 042-822-9591 The Sky Blue Bird Seosan 011-382-1862 Golden Wave Taean 041-675-2008

Medical Services Konyang International Health Care Center Daejeon kihcc.kyuh.co.kr 042-600-9978 Sun Hospital Daejeon 042-220-8000

Restaurants/Supermarkets Gasan Korean, Cheonan 041-561-9500 Spain House Spanish, Cheonan 041-571-7474 Olive Farms Buffet, Cheongju 043-215-3311

Bars/Lounges/Pubs Rolling Stones Cheonan 041-562-9824 MJ Cheongju “MJ Bar” on Facebook. 043-273-8366 Road King Cheongju 010-8301-5936 Blue Moon Cheongwon 043-285-0399 Brickhouse Sports Bar & Grill Daejeon “The Daejeon Brickhouse” on Facebook, 010-9867-0921 J-Rock Daejeon 010-4564-7721 Santa Claus Daejeon “Santa Claus 2008” on Facebook, 042-825-5500 The Shisha House Daejeon “Welcome to the Shisha House” on Facebook. 042-825-4157 Sponge Daejeon 042-471-3373

Live Music Barker’s Live Bar Gyeryong 042-841-0470 Club In Sky 2 Daejeon cafe.daum.net/tjinsky 042-223-7117

Higher Quality Coffee at Lower Garden Though it sits in the shadows of several coffee giants in Cheonan, Lower Garden wins out with its excellent variety and vastly superior service. In a fast-paced world, Lower Garden stands as an example of resilience and entrepreneurship. Inside, Park Sung-guk and Nakajima Mayuko have carefully crafted a cozy atmosphere, rich with soothing music and European influence. The warm wood and muted earth tones invite you to settle in. No matter whether you want to read, connect to the free Wi-Fi, or just get your morning caffeine fix, Lower Garden has what you need. The menu at Lower Garden will provide you with the things your taste buds desire, from outstanding mochas, frappes, and lattes to one of the best caramel macchiato in all of Korea. If you’re hungry, indulge yourself with fairly priced sandwiches, homemade muffins, or other desserts. You can probably find similar products at the competition, but Lower Garden sets itself apart through its creativity and quality. It stands for depth and purpose, as the shop’s name reveals. The owners met and fell in love while studying English in London, England. While there, they spent their moments together at a neighborhood park by the name of Lower Garden. It’s the simple moments that create the fondest memories, and these moments are made and shared every day at Lower Garden. Getting There

To find Lower Garden, take the 12 bus to the end of the line ending at Ssangyong-dong (near Korea Nazarene University). Cross the road, take a left and follow the sidewalk until you come to the first intersection. Take a right and follow the road around the bend, and you will see Signore’s Pizza. Take a right and you will see it down the road on your left. 1F 1515 Ssangyang-dong, Seobok-gu, Cheonan, Chungcheongnam-do, 041-573-0140 Words by Mich a el Palmer, shots by A n dr ew Phelps 10 Magazine June 2011 | 59

Kor ean desti nation

GANGWON

Raw Fish and Relaxation W o rds a n d sh ot s by C o n o r O ’ R e i lly

n northern Gangneung, the largest city on Gangwon Province’s famous East Sea coast, is one of the most popular summer locations in South Korea. It is an area often unexplored by expats but is highly regarded by many Koreans. The furthermost town in this area, Jumunjin is a place where the sand is white and the water clearer than any cliché could ever describe. The town is also one of the best places to experience a working fishing port that doubles as one of the best dining spots in the province.

T r a n q u i l i t y o n t h e Sa n d

Outside of the busiest month of the year, Jumunjin Beach is peaceful and accessible, and the slides, banana boats and jetskis of the peak season are nowhere to be seen. It’s possible to find a table in many of the fantastic restaurants and, if you book a few days in advance, a room in a comfortable hotel. It is then that you can really enjoy the long beach and busy seaside town nearby. Jumunjin Beach is generally a little bit quieter than the more popular Gyeongpo Beach further south. Located about twenty-five kilometers north of downtown Gangneung with regular public transport connections, it’s less densely developed than other beaches in this area. During the high season, activities abound while 60 | 10 Magazine June 2011

the low season offers a clean and tranquil shore with a few weekend visitors. The water here, while a little cold at times, is pristine. The beach backs onto pine woodland that is perfect for escaping from the sun or for having a relaxing picnic in between swims. Needless to say, there’s an ample supply of restaurants, many of which specialize in fresh fish, close to the beach if a picnic is beyond your level of preparation. F i s h o n t h e P lat e

While on the East Sea, it’s essential that you visit one of the ports to experience and taste the local delicacy, hoe (회, pronounced “hway”). This familiar dish of finely sliced raw fish is served with either spicy red pepper sauce or increasingly

wasabi and soy sauce. For many Koreans, Jumunjin is an excellent place to sample and appreciate this special meal. Unlike most other ports, everything you need is within a short walking distance in a town centered on the port. Once in town, you have a number of dining options. First, you can buy your fish in the market. This is an experience in itself. Amongst the stalls selling all kinds of fish, vendors will offer you baskets with different fish, all still alive and flopping. Generally speaking, the prices they offer are reasonable, though you can try to bargain for a better price. Once you make your purchase, you will be directed to another stall where your fish will be prepared properly, allowing you to take it to your hotel or back to the beach for a picnic

Previous page: The crowds are beginning to arrive on Jumunjin Beach in August. This page, clockwise: Buyers wait for a squid boat to arrive in Jumunjin Port. A small part of Jumunjin’s fishing fleet waits for the weather to clear. Customers bustle to get the best deals in the market in Jumunjin Port.

Daytripper’s Delight

F i s h i n g b oat s i n t h e h a r b o r

The town itself is well-worth exploring as Jumunjin is small but hectic in its own lazy way. Be sure to look around the port area. Outside the covered area and below the car park is a bustling market that sells fish fresh from the boats. During the summer months, the port is dominated by Jumunjin’s squid fleet. The ships will unload

massive quantities of squid, which are promptly auctioned off to buyers recognised by their yellow caps. The port is an exceptional source of fresh fish, crabs and shellfish, much of which is easily cooked. It can be an adventure in itself to just inspect the contents of the many blue basins and tanks around the market and port. The best time to experience the port at its most active is in the morning. This way you catch the boats coming in and avoid the large numbers of tour buses that arrive throughout the day.

A stream at Sogeumgang carves through the mountains to create a scenic gorge with unique rock formations.

T r av e l e r s o n t h e r oad

For a comfortable place to stay, try the Jumunjin Resort Hotel which is right on the beach and serves breakfast. All rooms have a small kitchen and the smallest rooms sleep up to four people. Visit jumunjinresort.com for details. Regular buses leave from all major cities to Gangeung, and from Seoul you can also take the train from Cheongnyangni Station. Once in Gangneung, take bus number 10 or 11 into Jumunjin. 10 Magazine June 2011 | 61

GANGWON

under the trees. If you would prefer to avoid the hustle and bustle of buying in the market, cross the street and you will see the 주문진 회 센터 (Jumunjin Raw Fish Center) which is a large and open hall packed with small restaurants battling it out to provide you with a full-course meal with a platter of raw fish as its centerpiece. The advantage to this is that you will get plenty of interesting side dishes, rice, and of course after your meal a spicy and savory soup made with the bones of the fish called maeuntang (매운탕). Each restaurant is named after a region in Korea, so you can choose where you want to eat according to where you live.

If the beach loses its allure and your gaze starts drifting toward the mountains in the background, take a day excursion to Sogeumgang, part of Odaesan National Park. The charming scenery of Sogeumgang was recognized in 1979, when it was officially designated as “Place of Scenic Beauty No. 1.” It doesn’t take long to realize why this is the case. The trail runs along the banks of a mountain stream, which cuts a magnificent and scenic gorge through the mountain, passing by large boulders, Buddhist temples and waterfalls. Hiking the full course can take the whole day, or you can take your time and wander along the 4km stretch of the valley, taking time to rest in the shade or with your feet deep in the cool mountain stream. To get to Sogeumgang, take bus number 303 from Gangneung Bus Terminal, or from Juminjin take bus number 300 to Yeongok, then transfer to bus number 303.

Jumunjin: wish you were here!

Performances Ongoing Gangneung Gwanno Mask Dance This mask dance is inspired by the gwanno, a kind of slave from the Joseon Dynasty. Ojukheon, Gangneung Municipal Museum, and Gyeongpo Beach. Sat 3 pm - 4 pm, Sun 11 am - 12 pm. ojukheon.or.kr 033-643-1301 Gangneung Nongak (Farm Music) Every Saturday, you have an opportunity to enjoy nongak, Korea’s traditional farm music. Ojukheon, Gangneung Municipal Museum, and Gyeongpo Beach. 2 pm 3 pm. gangwon.to 02-1330

GANGWON

10 Things to Do in Jumunjin 1. Ride on the Aranabi Zipline This 400-meter zip-line offers a unique view of Jumunjin beach as it swoops over the water toward the beach below. 033-641-9002 2. Have a ball at Jumunjin Beach During the high season, the beach is a lively tourist spot. Rent a shelter from the sun, or try the boat rides, water skiing, banana boats, and slides located up and down the beach. 3. See the sunrise at Jumunjin Lighthouse Located about halfway between the town and the beach, the lighthouse presents a good vantage point to see the town and watch the sunrise. 4. Chow down on naengmyeon Jumunjin is famous for this cold noodle dish. A local variant is hoe naengmyeon, which includes a mild chilli pepper paste and pieces of raw fish. For the best of both, go to Daedongmyeonok (대동면옥, 033-662-0076).

June 3rd - 21st Korea Theatre Festival Korea’s actors, directors, and other theatrical staff will gather in Wonju at Chiak Art Center, Baekwoon Art Hall in Wonju, and other venues. 29ktf.com 033-765-1129 June 4th Lee Eun-mi Concert Baek-ryeong Art Center at Gangwon University in Chuncheon. 3 pm, 7 pm. 120 min. W66,000 - W88,000. ticket.interpark.com 1544-1555 June 4th - 5th Bolshoi Ice Show This show offers visitors a chance to experience some fantastic Russian skaters. Uiam Skating Rink in Chuncheon. Sat 3 pm, 7 pm, Sun 2 pm, 6 pm. 120 min. W55,000 W77,000. ticket.interpark.com 1544-1822 June 18th Boohwal Live in Concert Haeram Hall at Kangnung University. 4 pm, 7:30 pm. 120 min. W66,000 - W88,000. kangnung.ac.kr 033-645-1253

June 26th Pyeongchang Daegwanryeong Gowon Marathon 5k, 10k, half, and full, to depart at 8 am at Daegwanryeong Express Rest Area. W10,000 - W40,000. Register by June 8th. run1080.com 042-638-1080

gangwon PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance Chuncheon Online Info tour.chuncheon.go.kr/eng

Libraries Chuncheon City Library iccl.or.kr 033-254-3887 Taebaek Municipal Library tbmlib.or.kr 033-550-2755

Museums Bangsan Porcelain Museum Yanggu-gun bangsanm.or.kr 033-480-2664 Chuncheon Makguksu Museum makguksumuseum.com 033-250-4134 Haslla Art World Gangneung haslla.kr 033-644-9411 Marisorigol Musical Instrument Museum Hongcheon-gun great.go.kr 033-430-2016 Sokbong Ceramic Museum Sokcho dogong.net 033-638-7711 Teddy Bear Farm Sokcho teddyfarm.net 033-636-3680 Wonju Hanji Museum Wonju wjhanji.co.kr 033-731-2323

Hotels/Accommodations

June 30th Wonju Philharmonic Orchestra One of the region’s finest orchestras. baekunart.wonju.go.kr 033-766-0067

Family & Community Through June 9th

5. Buy some dried squid The length of the main street into Jumunjin is lined with small stores selling dried seafood. This can be either eaten as a snack or added to soups for flavor. 6. Have some barbecued seafood Around the market, there are plenty of stalls that serve grilled fish, squid and shellfish. Shop around for the best price, and be sure to insist that your choice comes fresh. 7. Go shopping at the traditional market On every day that ends in a 1 or a 6, Jumunjin hosts a traditional market that sells herbs, household goods, cures, and countless other products. The market is situated parallel to the main street that leads to the port.

Gangneung Dano Festival Dano, one of the most famous Korean festivals, is held each year on May 5th (according to the lunar calendar). Join this festival to learn more about Korea’s agricultural history. Dano Grounds, Namdaecheon, Gangneung. danojefestival.or.kr 033-641-1593

8. Walk over to Yeongjin Beach Yeongjin is a small suburb of Jumunjin that is a thirty-minute stroll out of town and along the shore. The beach here is quieter with cafés and a wide variety of good restaurants.

June 18th - 20th Dosol Mt. Battle Memorial Festival This festival was established to commemorate the victories of South Korean marines during the Korean War. Yanggu Sports Complex. dosolfestival.net 033-480-2229

9. Have a coffee at Bohemian Bohemian, a Japanese-owned coffee shop a short walk from Yeongjin beach, is seen as one of the instigators of Gangneung’s current coffee craze. Don’t miss the great view of the distant beach and a relaxed atmosphere inside. 033-662-5365

June 24th - 26th Inje Seohwa DMZ Peace & Life Festival Get a better understanding of the tragedy of the Korean War at this area facing the DMZ. Cheondo-ri, Seohwa-myeon, Injegun. gangwon.to 010-6335-4174

10. Buy some fresh strawberries Just off the main road into Jumunjin, you can find some large greenhouses that sell freshly grown organic strawberries from February and into the summer months. Sample as many as you like before (and after) you buy. Words and shots by Conor O’R eilly 62 | 10 Magazine June 2011

Sport & Fitness K-League Football June 11th Gangwon vs Busan June 18th Gangwon vs Seoul Both at Gangneung Stadium, 7 pm

Hotel Inter-Burgo Wonju wonju.inter-burgo.com 033-766-8000 W Hotel Wonju w-hotel.co.kr 033-742-5454

Medical Services Gangwon National University Hospital Chuncheon knuh.or.kr/html/index.asp 033-258-2000 Gangnam Hospital Chuncheon ekangnam.co.kr 033-240-7000 Hyundai Animal Clinic Chuncheon dog7582.co.kr 033-256-7582 Ye Dental Clinic Chuncheon ccye.co.kr 033-262-2078

Restaurants Acozza Cafe Wonju Classy pizzas served in chic industrial décor. acozza.co.kr 033-766-7999

GYEONGSANG discovery Art Until November Dalmaji Hill Free Market A bustling arts market that happens every Saturday from 3 - 10 pm in Haewoljung (Pavilion) Plaza in Busan. Local artists gather to sell their crafts, draw caricatures, and perform old pop songs. english.busan.go.kr 1330 Through June 12th Changwon Truc Art Special Exhibition Inspired by the MBC Trick Art Exhibition, Truc Art uses two-dimensional images to express three-dimensional space. Seongji Outlet in Masan. 10 am - 8 pm. W12,000. trucart.com 1588-1793 Iwasaki Chihiro Exhibition Iwasaki is a notable Japanese artist who is fond of painting pictures of babies. He teaches children the importance of books through his innocent works. Yoon Seul Art Museum Exhibition Hall in Gimhae. 10 am - 6 pm. Free. gasc.or.kr 055-320-1261 The Purpose of Life Exhibition This exhibition attempts to reinterpret our mundane everyday life so we may find something extraordinary. Pohang Art Museum. 10 am - 6 pm. Free. poma.kr 054-250-6000 Through August 28th Terra-cotta: Primitive Future Terra-Cotta, made of clay and water, is a material which has been used for thousands of years. Clay Arch Gimhae Art Museum in Gimhae. 10 am - 6 pm. Weekends 10 am - 7 pm. Closed Mon. 055-340-7000

Gimhae Young Writers Exhibition This is an exhibition for Gimhae youth. Approximately 12 artists submitted up to 10 pieces of work. 1st Exhibition Hall at Yoon Seul Art Museum in Gimhae. 10 am - 7 am, Fri 10 am - 9 pm. Free. gasc.or.kr 010-9944-1504 June 27th - July 3rd Gyeongnam Women Artists & Conceptual Writers Exhibition This meaningful exhibition gives opportunities to new women artists and developing local artists. Yoon Seul Art Museum Exhibition Hall in Gimhae. 10 am - 7 am, Fri 10 am - 9 pm. Free. gasc.or.kr 017-581-9215

June 15th - July 16th Daegu Int’l Musical Festival DIMF hopes to be one day called the Broadway of Asia. Dongseongno. dimf.or.kr 053-622-1945 June 18th - 19th Jump: Comic Martial Arts Performance This story about a family of martial artists always gets big laughs. Grand Performance Hall at Changwon Seongsan Art Hall. Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 2 & 6 pm. 80 min. W40,000 - W50,000. ticket.interpark.com 1644-5564

Concerts Ongoing Woori Garak, Woori Munwha (Our Sound, Our Culture) This ongoing event presents a combination of Korean traditional music and various traditional performances. Every Sunday at Mt. Yongdu Park. 3 pm. Free. bscf.or.kr 051-744-7707 June 3rd Prague Radio Symphony Orchestra This orchestra holds annual concerts in Prague’s spring festival. With its long history, it is the pride of the Czech musical world. Petr Vronsky conducts Mozart’s The Marriage of Figaro, K.492, Overture; Smetana’s Ma vlast (My fatherland), Vltava (The Moldau); Tchaikovsky’s Overture Fantasy, Romeo and Juliet and Beethoven’s Piano Concerto No.5. Emperor. Konstantin Scherbakov plays piano. Grand Hall at Gumi Art Center. 7:30 pm. W30,000 W100,000. gumiart.or.kr 054-451-3040 June 7th Lee Hee-ah Concert Although born with only four fingers, she has been playing piano and trying to help other disabled people. Grand Performance Hall at Geoje Art Hall in Geoje-si. 7:30 pm. 100 min. W25,000 - W30,000. ticket.interpark.com 1688-5954 June 8th Toro Y Moi Korea Tour Toro Y Moi is one of the most talked about artists in the indie world. Although initially categorized under the “chillwave” genre, this multi-instrumentalist is branching out and showing the versatility of his music. Interplay in Busan. 9 pm. Advance W28,000. Door W34,000. supercolorsuper.com June 18th

Theater & Dance Ongoing Korean Music and Dance in Busan Performances every Saturday at the National Center for the Korean Traditional Performing Arts in Busan (National Gugak Center in Busan). W8,000. ncktpab.go.kr 051-811-0040 June 3rd - 7th

Busan International Dance Festival International and local troupes join to celebrate the beauty of the sea and the

e di t or’ s pick

Jo Yong-pil Live Concert With 40 years of albums and concerts, singer Jo Yong-pil is a legend of Korean popular music. CECO in Changwon. 7 pm. 120 min. W55,000 - W110,000. ticket.interpark.com 1588-8477

Gyeongsang Scuba Adventures

Whether you fancy becoming the next Jacques Cousteau, have a raging rubber fetish, or just savor the sensation of breathing like Darth Vader underwater, you’ll probably enjoy scuba diving in and around Busan. Start your scuba experience at Busan’s Sea World Dive Center, which offers a range of certification courses and local dives. Experienced Divemaster Drew McArthur from the UK handles foreign clientele, so there are no worries about language barriers. Never been diving? Your key to the world of scuba is the PADI Open Water Diver Certification, which starts at W550,000 at Sea World (including course materials, rental, and transportation to dive sites). Master the requisite skills in the safety of their indoor pool before taking it to the sea. Log book in hand, it’s time to explore some of the region’s best dive sites. The waters around Busan’s popular Taejongdae Park are great for beginners by day and advanced divers by night. Look for sea cucumbers, eels, crabs, and the red gurnard, a fish which uses its spiny fins to “walk” on the sandy bottom. Also near the city are the South Brother Islands. This site boasts superb visibility for spotting groupers, starfish, and rainbow fish. Excellent dive sites can also be found around the greater Gyeongsang region. Away from the city, the rich, crystal clear waters around Goeje Island have long attracted haenyo, freediving local ajummas who hold their breath for minutes while collecting the fruits of the sea. Near Pohang, on Korea’s east coast, unique attractions include shipwrecks, an underwater Buddha, and even a submerged sculpture of a male’s special parts. For more information about diving at these and other great sites, contact Divemaster Drew by adding his “Busan Scuba” group on Facebook or calling him at 0104410-1978. Make sure to ask about upcoming scuba excursions to awesome destinations like the Philippines and Palau. Words by K en n et h Hopew ell and Bryc e W eibl ey shots courtesy of Busa n Scuba

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GYEONGSANG

June 20th - 26th Geumbeol Artist Exhibition Held yearly for local artists. 2nd Exhibition Hall at Yoon Seul Art museum in Gimhae. 10 am - 7 am, Fri 10 am - 9 pm. Free. gasc.or.kr 017-844-7654

art of dance. Haeundae Beach. bidf.or.kr 051-890-2507

GYEONGSANG CALENDAR f o odi e f i nd

June 19th - 20th Folk Music Festival In addition to Korean folk music, you will also be able to enjoy Chinese folk music. Goseongnongyo Performance Place in Sangrimyeon. nongyo.com 055-674-2668

Family & Community Through June 19th Pororo Forest Playground Children who are fans of the Pororo TV show will enjoy playing with Pororo characters in each of the four zones. 1st floor of Gumico in Gumi. 10 am - 6 pm. W10,000 W12,000. gumico.com 054-476-0011 May 31st - June 3rd

‘Tis Not a Silly Place!

GYEONGSANG

The quest for good food and good times is just an unladen swallow’s journey away at Daegu’s Holy Grill. Known by locals as the spot for their Tex-Mex fix, they also whip up some sorely missed comfort foods. They have a twist on the Quebecois french fry amalgam poutine as well as a gooey macaroni and cheese. The dish that brings mom to Korea is their meatloaf, served with a simple Italian salad, a chunky marinara sauce and huge tracts of mashed potatoes—it’s like someone kidnapped his Canadian grandmother and put her in the kitchen. The Holy Grill consists of a 2nd floor restaurant and a 3rd floor sports grill, which has a bar strategically placed for big screen sports viewing pleasure. the.holy.grill@hotmail.com 053-423-4048 Words and shots by Joe McPh erson

e di t or’ s pick

Day of the Righteous Army Memorial Performance When the nation faced war, the volunteer army (uibyeong), fought for their country. Many cultural events will be held to honor these courageous men. Uibyeong Festival Site in Uiryeong-gun. tour.uiryeong.go.kr 055-570-2400 June 4th - 7th Traditional Korea Medicine Expo There will be a lot of booths related to Korean medicine and you can also take part in seminars and events. EXCO 1st floor Exhibition Hall in Daegu. 10 am - 6 pm. dgom.re.kr/Expo 053-810-0240 June 11th - 12th Cocomong: Help Aromi Friends of the refrigerator world try to help Aromi. The friendship displayed on stage will provide children with entertainment and education. Grand Performance Hall at Geoje Art Center on Geoje Island. 11 am, 2 & 4 pm. 70 min. W30,000 - W35,000. 02-588-8477

Ongoing World Confucianism Festival This festival will not only give you a chance to learn about Confucianism but also to experience its forms of artistic expression. Daetagol in Yeongyang-gun. worldcf.co.kr 054-851-7181

June 3rd – 6th

Family & Community

The beach may bring to mind thoughts of swimming in the surf and catching some rays, but what good would it be without the sand? This festival encourages you to look down at those pesky little rock particles and explore their entertaining potential. For the four days of events held at Haeundae, Busan’s most famous beach, you can see, feel, and enjoy sand. See the sand through artwork created by professional sand artists and graffitists. Challenges and outdoor activities, including sand sculptures, beach soccer, and traditional games will allow you to feel the sand. And naturally, you can enjoy the sand with parties and games right on Haeundae. Head to Haeundae Stn. (line 2, ex. 5). sandfestival.haeundae.go.kr 051-749-4000 64 | 10 Magazine June 2011

2011 Baseball All Busan games held at Sajik Stadium, home of the Lotte Giants. 1st - 2nd vs Nexen Heroes 6:30 pm 3rd vs LG Twins 6:30 pm 4th vs LG Twins 5 pm 10th vs Hanwha Eagles 6:30 pm 11th - 12th Hanwha Eagles 5 pm 21st - 23rd vs Doosan Bears 6:30 pm 28th - 30th vs KIA Tigers 6:30 pm All Daegu games held at Daegu Field, home of the Samsung Lions. 7th - 9th vs Lotte Giants 6:30 pm 14th - 16th vs LG Twins 6:30 pm 21st - 23rd vs Hanwha Eagles 6:30 pm 24th vs Nexen Heroes 6:30 pm 25th - 26th vs Nexen Heroes 5 pm June 18th Geumhogang Marathon Full, half, 10 km, 5 km, 30 km, to depart from Dongchon Yuwonji Parking lot at 9 am. W10,000 - W20,000. Register by June 16th. 2011.mapho.co.kr 011-526-9120

Education & Conferences

Haeundae Sand Festival

June 25th Busan vs Ulsan at Busan Asiad Main Stadium 7 pm June 25th Sangju vs Jeonbuk at Sangju Citizen Stadium 7 pm

June 23rd - 26th Total English Education Fare with Experience Over 80 companies are going to attend this EXPO, which will include English activities, books, and various booths. 3rd Floor Exhibition Place at CECO in Changwon. 10 am - 5 pm. teef.co.kr 055-265-6401

Sports & Fitness 2011 K-League Football June 5th Daegu vs Sangju at Daegu Citizen Stadium 7 pm June 11th Daegu vs Daejeon at Daegu Citizen Stadium 7 pm June 11th Ulsan vs Sangju at Sangju Citizen Stadium 7 pm June 18th Ulsan vs Incheon at Ulsan Munsu Football Stadium 7 pm June 18th Pohang vs Sangju at Pohang Steelyard 7 pm June 18th Gyeongnam vs Busan at Changwon Football Center 7 pm June 25th Daegu vs Seongnam at Daegu Citizen Stadium 7 pm June 25th Gyeongnam vs Pohang at Changwon Football Center 7 pm

June 19th Tongyeong Yokjido Tour Marathon Full, half, 100 km, 10 km, to depart from Tongyeong Ferry Terminal at 9 am. W50,000. Register by June 17th. tourmarathon.com 02-1644-4219 Pohang Seaside Marathon for Unification Half, 10 km, 5 km, to depart from Pohang Stadium at 9:30 am. W10,000 - W30,000. Register by May 27th. pohangmarathon.com 054-231-7025 June 26th Ulleung-do Marathon Full, half, 10 km, 5 km, 60 km, to depart from Ulleung Cultural Art Experience Place at 7 am. W10,000 - W30,000. Register by June 21st. tourmarathon.com 02-1644-4219

Dine & Drink June 3rd - 5th Cafe Festival 2011 This festival will be a rare combination of a food exhibition and cafe festival so you will be able to enjoy trendy food and drinks together. BEXCO in Busan. Fri & Sat 10 am - 5 pm, Sun 10 am - 4:30 pm. W3,000. bofas.com 02-588-2599 June 11th - 14th Daegu Int’l Food Industry Exhibition Exhibit products are divided by processed food, coffee & dessert, alcohol, packing equipment, and dining essentials. EXCO. 10 am - 6 pm. dafood.co.kr 053-601-5063 June 18th - 21st Busan Int’l Food EXPO This food-related exhibition will bring together products organized by traditional and general food, seafood, cafe and bakery, and food machine and wrapping. BEXCO in Haeundae-gu. 10 am - 5 pm, Sun 10 am - 4 pm. W3,000. bofas.com 02-588-2480

Daegu Int’l Tea Festival Including tea goods, a lot of tea craft and cultural artwork will be exhibited. EXCO 1st Floor Exhibition Hall in Buk-gu. 10 am - 6 pm. W10,000. tea-festival.kr 053-768-2516

GYEONGSANG DIRECTORY

Gyeongsang Foreigner Assistance Busan Foundation for Int’l Activities bfia.or.kr 051-898-3740, 051-865-0133 Geoje Foreign Resident Association gfra.net 055-687-9332 Ulsan Global Center 052-229-2810 Ulsan Online ulsanonline.com

Education Ayurveda Yoga Academy Certification course for would-be yoga teachers in Daegu. Sat 10 am – 7 pm. Call Yatren at 011-9547-5181 Yoga Classes Each 1st and 3rd Sunday from 12:30 – 1:30 pm. Buy the Book Cafe in Daegu. megan.deutsch@gmail. com 010-7794-1218

Open weekends. buythebookcafe@ yahoo.com Café Francesco Italian Italian cuisine and good coffee. Near Rodeo Street. 053-252-9625 Dijon French Up-market French and Mediterranean cuisine. 053-422-2426 Hami Mami’s American One of Daegu’s best brunches. 50m from the US base. 8 am – 10 pm. 053-475-5242

on Haeundae Beach. 051-746-7913 Daegu Ping Bar Great drinks, a pool table, and music upon request. Samdeok Catholic Church. 7 pm - 5 am. withhyk@hanmail.net 053-422-7708 Jinju Soundgarden Behind Gyeongsang National University. soundgarden. cyworld.com, zakkie@hanmail.net 055-753-2248, 010-6478-2248 (owner)

Religious Services Baekangro Church Busan 051-898-3740 Bujeon Church bujeon.org 051-807-3331 Catholic Center Busan bccenter.or.kr 051-441-6403

Hongbeopsa Temple 051-508-3470 Busan busanbuddhism.com/hannarae Hosanna Church Busan hosanna21.com 051-209-0191 Podowon Church Busan 051-333-3736 Shipyungro Church Busan spr.or.kr 051-220-0200 Sooyeongno Church Busan 051-740-4500 Pusan University of Foreign Studies Busan 051-640-3445 Islamic Mosque Busan busanislam.or.kr 051-518-9991 Okpo Joonang Presbyterian Geoje Island 010-2586-7520, 010-3873-1652 Sumgim Presbyterian Church Geoje Island sumgim.org 017-577-3096

Hotels/Accommodations 4 – 5 Star Hotels Busan Lotte Hotel 051-810-1000 Novotel Ambassador 051-743-1234 Seacloud 051-933-1000 Daegu Novotel Ambassador 053-664-1101 Hostels Busan Arpina 051-740-3228 Zen Backpackers 010-8722-1530

2nd Floor Restaurant 3rd Floor Sports Lounge

Restaurants Busan Ganga Indian Opposite Haeundae Beach. ganga.co.kr 051-740-6670

GYEONGSANG

053-423-4048

Gecko’s Western Perched on lovely Haeundae Beach at the Pale de CZ, you can get all of that authentic Western food you’re used to back home, and you’ll find bartenders who know how to mix a real margarita. 051-747-3069 Il Sole Italian Quality food with a great view of Haeundae Beach. 051-747-4253 Kebabistan Russian Uzbeki restaurant serving kebabs, soups and stews. Busan Station. 051-581-4050 Sunset Lounge American Drinks, Western food and fun delivered next to Haeundae. 051-742-2959 Daegu Berkeley Italian Hof Street. 053-421-8577 Buy the Book Western This bookstore and café is your source for free yoga, theater, and parties. Downtown Daegu.

The Holy Grill Western Owned and operated by Canadians, the Grill provides expats with fantastic sandwiches, burgers, Tex-Mex and breakfast in a chilled-out environment that feels more like a lounge than a burger joint. Move up to the 3rd floor to catch major sporting events. 053-423-4048 Leo Chow Mexican A decent selection of burritos and tacos. 053-255-7111 Maya Indian Gyeongbuk University. 053-214-1916 Samarkland Russian Daegu station. 053-252-4021 Siji Taco Mexican Spicy tacos at competitive prices 053-791-5050 South St. Western Philly cheesesteaks and cold cuts in Suseong-gu. blog. naver.com/southst105 053-768-7867 Gumi Waegook Cook American Gumi’s original foreign-owned and operated restaurant, serving steaks, hamburgers, seafood, pastas, and German cuisine. waegookcook.com 054-444-3775

Bars/Lounges/Pubs Busan Aligote Wines, cheese platters, and excellent service. Haeundae. 6 pm – 3 am. aligote-busan.com 051-731-3322 Basement Open mic nights on Tuesdays and parties galore. 011-9294-2391 Fuzzy Navel Great drinks and great Mexican food as well. 011-1757-6349 The HQ Bar Kyungsung’s only foreignerowned bar with sports and dart games. busankart@yahoo.com Rock ‘n’ Roll House Western-style bar with darts and pool and a great view of Haeundae. 051-742-5553 Sosa Bar A cozy latin bar close to Pusan National University. 051-513-0070 Wolfhound The same classic food and drinks from the Seoul location, but right

10 Magazine June 2011 | 65

GYEONGGI CALENDAR e di t or’ s pick

Korea Int’l Boat Show and Match Cup

Art Ongoing The Year of the Rabbit Featuring traditional Korean artifacts with rabbits, the exhibition also shows new rabbit characters in Korean society, including Mashimaro, a popular Korean animated character created by Kim Jae-in. Gyeonggi Provincial Museum. 10 am - 6 pm. Free. musenet.or.kr 031-288-5300 Through June 3rd Anthony Brown Exhibition: Kids Arts Festival Works of popular fairy tale illustrator Anthony Brown will be displayed for kids. Gyeonggi Arts Center in Suwon. 10 am - 5 pm. W12,000. ticket.interpark.com 1544-1555

June 6th – 12th

Sports and Fitness

After living in Korea for a while, it can get a little suffocating being sandwiched between skyscrapers and mountains. At Jeongok Marina in Hwaseong City and Tando Port, restless landlubbers and marine enthusiasts can set sail to celebrate the spirit of the open sea. The port will be bustling with two events, the Korea International Boat Show (June 8th – 12th) and the Korea Match Cup (June 6th - 12th). The boat show will feature exhibitions on land and water showcasing water sports, parts and equipment, and business consultations. To go along with the theme of the week, the Korea Match Cup will hold a stage of the World Match Racing Tour, which is one of the world’s leading professional sailing series. koreaboatshow.org, koreamatchcup.com f o odi e f i nd

Through June 6th “Closer to Contemporary Art” Exhibition This collection of 30 pieces of modern art will help visitors understand the difference between contemporary and traditional art. Gyeonggi Museum of Modern Art. Mon 2 pm, 4pm, Sat & Sun 11 am, 2 pm, 4 pm. gmoma.or.kr 031-481-7007~9 Through June 12th Art Road 77 Art Fair 2011 This art fair will include sections including Craft and Objet 77, Wood Fun Art Furniture Exhibition, and Daegu Art Fair Special Exhibition. Held at twelve galleries in Heyri Art Valley in Paju. W4,000. blog. naver.com/artroad77 031-957-1055

Few places have the ability to transcend space and time, but from the moment you open the doors of Durga, the wafting aroma of tandoori and butter masala transport you to the markets of Bali and Bangalore. The family-owned chain of restaurants offers a variety of mouth-watering Indian and Nepalese dishes, from aloo gobi to seafood curry and chicken briyani. But the star of the menu is, by far, the naan bread. Whether you order traditional, butter, or garlic you are in for a treat. The main dishes come with plenty of extra sauce for dipping, turning each bite into a warm, pillowy cloud of rich Indian spices. Along with the Uijeongbu branch reviewed here, Durga has three other locations in Seoul. 198-9 Uijeongbu 1- dong, Uijeongbu-si, Gyeonggi- do. durga.co.kr 031-848-4785 Words and shot by Curtis File 66 | 10 Magazine June 2011

Theater & Dance June 4th - 5th Monte Cristo: The Musical Some of Korea’s finest musical actors will star in this version of Victor Hugo’s classic novel of betrayal and revenge. Happy Grand Theater at Gyeonggi Arts Center in Suwon. Sat 3 pm, 7:30 pm, Sun 2 pm, 6:30 pm. 160 min. W50,000 W120,000. ggac.or.kr 1588-0766

Concerts June 3rd Jasmine Choi’s “Why not?” Clarinetist Jasmine Choi presents an entertaining mix of classical, jazz, and pop at this crossover concert. Aram Music Hall at Aramnuri in Goyang. 7:30 pm. W30,000 - W50,000. artgy.or.kr 043-230-2600 June 11th Aramnuri Youth Concert At this classical concert, teenagers can learn more about musical instruments. Aram Music Hall at Aramnuri in Goyang. 5 pm. W10,000. artgy.or.kr 1577-7766 June 17th

Through June 19th “Swim” (Rest) Exhibition Greeting the “family month,” the Gyeonggi Art Museum is holding an exhibition titled swim (쉼), meaning “rest,” to give us a chance to consider the real meaning of relaxation. 10 am - 7 pm. gmoma.or.kr 031-481-7007~9 Through June 26th Kim Chong Hak Retrospective Featuring 70 major paintings to commemorate the achievements of Kim Chong Hak, known for his representative paintings and depictions of Korea’s natural environment. National Museum of Contemporary Art in Gwacheon. 10 am 6 pm. moca.go.kr 02-2188-6038 New Acquisitions 2010 This exhibition features works of art collected during 2010 from artists such as Hyun-ki Park and Tschang-yeul Kim. National Museum of Contemporary Art in Gwacheon. 10 am - 6 pm (Sat & Sun 10 am - 9 pm). Closed Mon. Free. moca.go.kr 2186-6000

Dining Here is a Naan Issue

artists, similar in form but radically different in execution. Woljeon Museum of Art in Icheon. 10 am - 6 pm. W400 W2,000. iwoljeon.org 031-637-0033

Through July 3rd The Balance for Coexistence Exhibition The pieces at this exhibit attempt to express the balance between nature and humanity. Aramnuri Aram Art Museum in Goyang. Tue, Wed, Thu, and Sun 10 am - 6 pm, Fri & Sat 10 am - 8 pm. W2,000 W3,000. artgy.or.kr 031-960-0180 Gyeonggi Modern Ceramics: 100-Year Record This exhibition shows how master artisans search for a more advantageous environment in which to make ceramics. Gyeonggi Ceramic Museum in Gwangju. 10 am - 7 pm (Sat & Sun 10 am - 9 pm). Free. ggcm.or.kr 031-799-1500 Mediascape: à Pas de Nam June Paik Mediascape is the new social landscape that globalization has brought about, as posited by anthropologist Arjun Appadurai. Nam June Paik Art Center in Yong-in. 10 am - 8 pm (Sat & Sun 10 am - 10 pm). Free. njpartcenter.kr 031-201-8500 Through July 10th Masters of Korean Ink Painting: Chang Wu-seong and Park No-su Compare the paintings of these two

I Musici Concert Hear world-famous ensemble I Musici perform Vivaldi’s classic The Four Seasons. Aram Music Hall at Aramnuri in Goyang. 8 pm. W30,000 - W90,000. artgy.or.kr 1577-7766, 02-6377-1250 June 26th Ensemble Ditto Recital: “Impressionism” Hear the heavenly harmony of a violin, cello, piano, and viola. You don’t want to miss this chance to hear musicians like Richard Yongjae O’Neill and Jiyong. Grand Performance Hall at Gunpo Art Center. 5 pm. W40,000 - W60,000. gunpoart.net 031-390-3501~3504 June 30th Aramnuri Matinee Concert Enjoy European classic music with the artists insisting public’s conversion to classic. Aram Music Hall at Aramnuri in Goyang. 11 am. W15,000. artgy.or.kr 1577-7766

Family & Community Through June 6th Suwon Urban Agriculture & Yuchae Flower Festival At this festival, enjoy a number of theme zones such as yuchae (rape) flowers or head to the nature activity zones to learn about farming with your kids or friends. Located at the Urban Agriculture Theme Park in Suwon. 10 am - 6 pm (Sat & Sun 10 am - 7 pm). edonong.kr 031-408-9977 Through June 12th Seoul Land Spring Festival Seoul Land is a great spot for a family outing. Ride a roller coaster or view the tulips with your family. Seoul Land in Gwacheon.

Adults W17,000, teens W14,000, children W12,000. seoulland.co.kr 02-509-6000 Through June 30th Rose Garden Festival Take time to smell the roses—230 kinds of them—check out cool performances like folk dances, and take part in various events like making bouquets. Seoul Theme Garden at Seoul Grand Park in Gwacheon. 2 - 8 pm. grandpark.seoul.go.kr 02-500-7682 Through July 3rd Paju Heyri Ye Festival The Chinese character “ye” means “art,” and this festival is a general art event with everything from indie bands to ukulele performances. Heyri Art Valley in Paju. heyri.net 031-946-8551 June 4th - 5th Bubble Bubble Pang Pang Show Touching real bubbles on the stage: an unforgettable experience for children. Comfortable Small Theater at Gyeonggi Arts Center in Suwon. Sat 2 pm, 4 pm, Sun 11 am, 2 pm, 4 pm. 60 min. W15,000 - W20,000. ggac.or.kr 1588-0766 June 11th Hantol Nanum Festival This movement is known as HOPE--protecting children’s rights to health, opportunity, protection, and education. Gymnasium in Anyang. 9 am - 6 pm. hantol.or.kr/2011 031-439-9544 June 11th - 12th The Siblings Who Became the Sun and The Moon: The Musical Share one of Korea’s most famous fairy tales with your children. In Korean. Little Performance Hall at Gunpo Art Center. 11 am, 2 pm, 4 pm. W15,000. gunpoart.net 031-390-3501 June 17th - 19th Toechon Tomato Festival Raised amdist the natural beauty of Paldang Lake, Toechon’s tomatoes are fresh and tasty. 155-1 Jeongji-ri Toechon-myeon in Gwangju. tomato.gjcity.go.kr 031-760-2662

Education & Conferences

June 18th - 19th Anyang Cyber Science Festival Including many unusual contests in the areas of robotics, smart phone applications, and online gaming. Anyang Gymnasium. cyber.anyang.go.kr 031-470-4721

Religious Services

Grace & Truth Church Anyang, Ansan, and Suwon Sunday 9:30 am, 11 am, 1 pm, grace-truth.org 031-443-3731 Dongsan Church Ansan Sunday 11:30 am, 010-2910-7809 Museums

Central America Culture Center Goyang. latina.or.kr 031-962-7171 Elvis Presley Memorial Hall Paju paju.go.kr 031-948-3358 Face Museum Gwangju (Gyeonggi Province). visagej.org 031-765-3522 Korean Lamp (Deung-Jan) Museum Yongin deungjan.or.kr/eng 031-334-0797 Waltz & Dr. Mahn Coffee Museum Namyangju wndcof.com 031-576-6051 Transportation

International Taxi (English speaking) 1644-2255 Jumbo Taxi Service (more expensive) 02-888-2000 Radio

US Armed Forces Network Dongducheon AM 1197/FM 88.3 Pyongtaek AM 1440/FM 88.3 Songtan AM 1359/FM 88.5 Uijeongbu AM 1161/FM 88.5 Restaurants

Cafe Nicolia Bucheon European-style café and wine bar. cafenicolia.com 032-329-0526 La Mia Cucina Ilsan The kitchen is always open at this English-friendly Italian pub. 7 pm – 4 am. 010-2327-8882 First Nepal Restaurant Incheon firstnepal.com 032-525-8771 Bars/Lounges/Pubs

The Big Chill Suwon Chill out in a big way with the friendly crowd while enjoying a game of pool, darts, or wii. Opens 8 pm on Wed – Sat and 4 pm on Sun. Facebook group, edwardjorgensen@gmail.com 010-3136-0153 The Park Bucheon Rhythm & Blues Bucheon 032-323-0161 West Island Ilsan 031-917-2225

GYEONGGI

June 14th - 17th Korea Chem Expo Chemical firms from all over the world are represented at this expo in KINTEX, Goyang. 10 am - 5 pm. W5,000. koreachem.org 02-785-4771

gyeongGI province

June 21st - 24th International LED Green Lighting EXPO Learn more about the future of the LED industry at KINTEX in Goyang. 10 am - 5 pm (Fri 10 am - 4 pm). W3,000. ledexpo.com 02-783-7979

Sport & Fitness KBO Baseball Games are held at Munhak Stadium, home of the SK Wyverns. 1st - 2nd vs Doosan Bears 6:30 pm 3rd vs KIA Tigers 6:30 pm 4th vs KIA Tigers 5 pm 14th - 16th vs KIA Tigers 6:30 pm 24th vs LG Twins 6:30 pm 25th - 26th vs LG Twins 5 pm 28th - 30th vs Hanwha Eagles 6:30 pm 2011 K-League Football June 11th Incheon vs Jeonnam at Incheon World Cup Stadium June 18th Seongnam vs Daejeon at Tancheon Sports Complex June 18th Suwon vs Daegu at Suwon World Cup Stadium

Jukjeon Gecko’s Yongin Bundang and Yongin expats should be ecstatic to know that the famous Gecko’s chain is expanding south. Near the Shinsegye department store. geckosterrace.com 031-262-9974 Clubs

Club Psycho Anyang bcmusicworld.com

010-7754-0409

To inquire about getting a logobox for your business, email to us at marketing@10mag.com 10 Magazine June 2011 | 67

JEOLLA CALENDAR disc ov er y

Art Ongoing Like Fire and Wind: Dancer Choi Seung-hee Exhibition Featuring photos of this revolutionary dancer who helped create contemporary Korean dance during the Japanese colonial period. Gwangju Museum of Art. 9 am - 6 pm (Wed 9 am - 9 pm). Closed Mon. W200 - W500. artmuse.gwangju.go.kr 062-613-7134 Through June 26th New Strength of Geumgang: People of Wanju 2100 Years Ago The historical artifacts found in Wanju help us understand Korea’s bronze and iron age. Jeonju National Museum. 9 am - 6 pm (Sat 9 am - 9 pm, Sun 9 am - 7 pm). Closed Mon. Free. jeonju.museum.go.kr

Gwangju Kunsthalle: The Rise of Subculture

JEOLLA

Leave the mainstream at the door. Here only the underground, independent and hip may enter. For some time, the Asia Culture Complex (ACC) was nothing more than a hole in the ground in the heart of Gwangju. Construction of the art space seemed to be delayed indefinitely. For the citizens of Gwangju, art could not wait. That’s when the idea of Kunsthalle Gwangju (KHG) was born. To give the eager patrons a temporary venue to showcase modern art while the ACC was being completed, the KHG project was launched to offer a temporary location for local and international patrons to come together to enjoy art and life in a forward-thinking atmosphere. The first exhibition, entitled “Flower of May,” celebrated the location of KHG, built on the site of the 5-18 Gwangju Uprising, which took place in 1980. This exhibition set a tone of reverence for culture, history and, most importantly, art for future projects. Soon, this sleek and modern multi-purpose venue became a refreshing refuge for communally oriented citizens who believe in supporting independent artists and musicians, sharing ideas, and learning about art and culture with the global community. Once a month, the KHG features a flea market where socially conscious people come together to buy and sell art items while enjoying live performances, BBQ, and beer (much like the Kunsthalle in Seoul) and a movie night where art house films are viewed with relevant speakers who provide insight into the films. And more than once a month, the KHG showcases DJ nights and concerts, providing a platform for alternative and underground Korean bands and art exhibitions that focus on subcultures and the underground and welcome local and foreign artists. These projects focus on artists who convey a certain message about society and make visitors think about art and life in an entirely different way, which is the driving force of the KHG. More information about what’s on right now can be found at the Kunsthalle website. kunsthalle-g wang ju.com 062-236-0730 13 Gwangsan-dong, Donggu, Gwangju 501-180 Words by A ng e la L e e shots provided by G wa ng ju K u n st h all e

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Through August 28th Memorial Exhibition for Buddha’s Birthday Displaying bells, drums, and other instruments used to spread the message of Buddha. Art Hall at Jeonju National Museum. 9 am - 6 pm (Sat 9 am - 9 pm, Sun 9 am - 7 pm). Closed Mon. Free. jeonju.museum.go.kr

Theater & Dance Ongoing Sinpan Norum 12 Acts This performance, held each Saturday at 4 pm, combines elements of pansori, gutpan, changgeuk, and other traditional Korean art forms. Yewondang at National Center for Korean Folk Performing Area in Namwon. ntmc.go.kr 063-620-2324 June 1st - 3rd Little Three Pigs: Children’s Musical The three little pigs and the big bad wolf have been working on their singing skills for this musical. Minju Hall at 518 Memorial Center in Gwangju. 10:20 am, 11:20 am, 1:10 pm. 518center.gjcity.net 062-372-0300 June 7th Bee Maya’s Adventure: Children’s Musical This is an exciting musical that your kids will enjoy. Grand Performance Hall at Suncheon Cultural Art Center. 10:40 am. scart.or.kr 019-337-8498 June 8th The Art of Dancing and Expression Grand Performance Hall at Cheonbuk National University Cultural Center. 7:30 pm. Free. cnucc.chonbuk.ac.kr 063-270-3746 June 11th “Chusheoyo” Mask Dance Produced by the Mask Dance Workshop, this performance provides the audience with, humor and satire. Yewondang at the National Center for Korean Folk Performance in Namwon. 4 pm. 60 min. Free. ntmc.go.kr 032-620-2328 June 11th - 12th Hobi Show: Children’s Musical Kids learn about rhythm as they groove to the beat of Hobi the tiger and the other dancing characters on stage. Grand Performance Hall at Cheonbuk University Cultural Center. 2 pm, 4 pm. W30,000 - W35,000. cnucc.chonbuk.ac.kr 010-3001-1195 June 16th Moak Mountain: Korean Dance Get a glimpse into the history of Jeonju and Moak Mountain, which overlooks the city, through this three-act dance. Gochang Culture Center in Gochanggun. 7:30 pm. W1,500 - W3,000. culture.gccl.kr 063-560-2322

June 18th Kkokdo: Traditional Performance Creative Group Noni perform an exorcism for an old person’s soul, a striking example of Korea’s old shamanistic rituals. Yewondang at the National Center for Korean Folk Arts in Namwon. 4 pm. 60 min. Free. ntmc.go.kr 032-620-2328 June 22nd Beauty and the Beast: Children’s Play “Beauty and the Beast” is reborn as kids’ theater. Grand Performance Hall at Suncheon Cultural Art Center. 10:20 am, 11:20 am, 1:10 pm. scart.or.kr 1688 3820 / 010 3633 7857

Concerts June 2nd Army Band Concert A rare chance to see a concert performed by the army band. Grand Performance Hall at Suncheon Cultural Art Center. 7 pm. scart.or.kr 741-2796 / 017-342-0895 June 3rd Recital Invitation Series 1 Yeonji Hall at Sori Arts Center of Jeollabuk-do. 7:30 pm. W10,000. sori21.co.kr 063-270-8000 June 7th Textbook Music Concert for Youth Vocal soloists from around Jeonbuk can be heard at this performance. Yeonji Hall at Sori Arts Center of Jeollabuk-do. 7:30 pm. 90 min. W5,000 - W10,000. sori21.co.kr 010-8880-6648 June 12th Suncheon Youth Orchestra Concert Grand Performance Hall at Suncheon Cultural Art Center. Free. 5 pm. scart.or.kr 721-3229 June 18th An Suk-Seon’s Companion: Traditional Korean Performance In this performance by the group Seulgidung, you can experience crossover gukak, incorporating pansori and traditional chamber music. Moakdang at North Jeolla Art Center in Jeonju. 7 pm. 115 min. W20,000 - W50,000. seulgidoong.com 063-270-8000 / 7848 Namjin’s 45th Anniversary Concert Since releasing his first album titled Seoul Playboy in 1965, Namjin has been an important part of Korean popular music. Grand Performance Hall at Cheonbuk National University Cultural Center. 4 & 8 pm. W44,000 - W100,000. cnucc.chonbuk.ac.kr 1644-1123 June 22nd Jeonju Symphony Orchestra’s Regular Concert Yeonji Hall at Sori Arts Center of Jeollabuk-do in Jeonju. 7:30 pm. W7,000 - W10,000. art.jeonju.go.kr 063-281-2748 June 25th - 26th Lee Seon-hee Concert A popular singer in the 80s, Lee Seon-hee is now working to train up aspiring young singers. Grand Performance Hall at Cheonbuk National University Cultural Center in Jeonju. 7 pm. W55,000 - W99,000. cnucc.chonbuk.ac.kr 062-430-9805

Family & Community Through June 5th Yeonggwang Flower Festival The festival includes streets lined with flowers, flower picture contests and pungmulnori (traditional street performances). Hongnong-eup in Younggwang. yeonggwang.go.kr 051-350-5752 June 3rd - 11th Muju Firefly Festival As this is one of the region’s largest festivals, visitors can expect parades, fireworks, and plenty

of games. By participating in this ecofriendly festival, you not only experience the gorgeous scenery of the countryside but also can help protect the environment. Muju-gun. firefly.or.kr 063-324-2440

JEOLLA PROVINCE

June 4th - 5th Jeonju Dano Festival Dano is a traditional holiday on which you can ride swings and wash your hair with grape water. Jeonju Dukjin Park. pncc.or.kr 063-277-2515

Gwangju International Center gic.or.kr 062-226-2733 Gwangju Blog gwangjublog.com Inside Jeonju insidejeonju.com The Jeonju Hub thejeonjuhub.com

June 4th - 6th Beopseong Dano Festival and Gulbi Festival If you want to enjoy one of Korea’s old holidays while also getting a taste of gulbi (yellow corvina), this may be the best festival of all. Beopseong Harbor and Supjaengi Park in Yeonggwang-gun. yeonggwang.go.kr 061-350-5752

Education Ongoing GIC Talks Take advantage of English lectures by professors, writers, and diplomats that promote communication and mutual understanding among Koreans and international residents. Topics include a wide range of subjects such as culture, history, politics, and art. Gwangju International Center. Sat 2:30 – 4 pm. Closed holidays. gic.or.kr 062-226-2733 Haenam Dinosaur Museum As the first such museum in the region, the Haenam Dinosaur Museum introduces visitors to the rich fossil legacy of Uhangri in Haenam-gun. 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, teens W2,000, children W1,000. uhangridinopia. haenam.go.kr 061-532-7225 June 17th - 19th Jeonbuk Franchise EXPO Anyone interested in buying a franchise will want to head to Hwasan Stadium in Jeonju for this expo. fexpo.kr 063-214-0045

Sport & Fitness KBO Baseball KIA Tigers at Gwangju Stadium 7th - 9th vs Doosan Bears 6:30 pm 17th vs Samsung Lions 6:30pm 18th - 19th vs Samsung Lions 5 pm 21st - 23rd vs SK Wyverns 6:30 pm KIA Tigers at Gunsan Stadium 10th vs LG Twins 6:30 pm 11th - 12th vs LG Twins 5 pm

June 19th Jeong Nam Jin Marathon 5k, 10k, half, and full, to depart from Jangheungcheon Physical Education Square in Jangheung-gun at 9 am. Register by May 29th. W15,000 - W30,000. jeongnamjinrun.net 061-864-1188

Dine & Drink June 9th - 12th Gochang Bokbunja Food & Wine Festival Try out Gochang-gun’s bokbunja (raspberries), watermelon, and pungcheon jangeo (eel). Seonun Mountain Provincial Park in Gochang-gun. bokbunja.gochang.go.kr 063-560-2457

Foreigner Assistance

Religious Services Antioch Presbyterian Church Jeonju andiok.kr 063-274-3228 Iri Joongang Church Iksan 0 63-851-4311 Musang Temple Muan-gun 042-841-6084

Museums Gochang Dolmen Museum 9 am – 5 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, teens W2,000, children W1,000. gcdolmen.go.kr 063-560-2576 Iksan Jewel Museum 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. jewelmuseum.go.kr 063-859-4641 Jeonju Oriental Medicine Cultural Center 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. hanbangcenter.com 063-232-2500 Jeonju Traditional Alcohol Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Free. urisul.net 063-287-6305 Jeonju Traditional Culture Center jt.or.kr 063-280-7045 Mokpo Ceramic Livingware Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. doja.mokpo.go.kr 0 61-270-8480 Mokpo Natural Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. museum.mokpo.go.kr 061-274-3655 Mokpo Ceramic Livingware Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. doja.mokpo.go.kr 061-270-8480

Hotels/Accommodations Gwangju Youth Hostel 062-943-4378 Ramada Plaza Gwangju ramadagwangju.com 062-717-7000

Radio TBS eFM Gwangju FM 98.7 US Armed Forces Network Gunsan AM 1440/FM 88.5 Gwangju FM 88.5

Restaurants/Supermarkets First Nepal Restaurant firstnepal.com 062-225-8771 Tequilaz Gwangju’s first Mexican cantina serves up your south-of-the-border favorites with magical margaritas and, of course, killer tequilas. tequilaz.com Underground Grocers Gwangju This foreigner-run food shop has those hardto-find cheeses, taco shells and other delicacies you crave. 062-232-2626

Live Music Venues Bars/Lounges/Pubs

Seonyudo: Korea’s Secret Island Paradise

Warm turquoise waters, golden beaches, lush green vegetation and fresh seafood may conjure up images of some tropical paradise – but they’re all available right here in Korea. The Gogunsan archipelago, just off the Jeolla coast, has long been known as a getaway from the day-to-day life on the Korean peninsula. Even Admiral Yi Sun-sin brought his fleet here for a deserved 12-day break after defeating the Japanese in a naval battle in 1597. Although now connected to the mainland by the new Saemangeum seawall, the islands’ isolation has helped maintain their beauty and kept them relatively peaceful. Even in the heart of summer when many Korean families make the trip over, there is plenty of beach for everyone and it’s not too hard to find a quiet spot on one of the more far-flung islands. The largest and most frequently visited island is Seonyudo, but there are 63 in total, many linked by a network of bridges and causeways. Bicycles, scooters and quad bikes can be rented inexpensively from operators close to the ferry dock, and there are several minbak (cheap lodgings) dotted around the islands which welcome overnight guests. Another popular option is camping—many visitors bring a tent and simply pitch it on a convenient section of beach. Besides sunbathing, swimming and sandcastles, the islands’ rocky, forested interiors offer some decent walking and climbing opportunities, and watching the sunset from the top of Mangjubong is highly recommended. Getting There

Gunsan can be reached by bus from Seoul’s Express Bus Terminal, or by train from Iksan (on the KTX Honam line) followed by an W8,000 taxi ride to the ferry terminal. Ferry departure times vary by the tide, but there are several sailings each day. The trip should cost around W15,000 and take 60-90 minutes, depending on the weather.

Words by A n dy C lay, shots by Priscilla A n drade

Art & Travel Cafe Jeonju Open mic nights every Wednesday from 9 pm. Facebook group, 011-9437-0208 Deepin Jeonju Popular expat bar with Texas Holdem on Sundays. 019-9646-1028 Led Zeppelin Art Space Jeonju Hosts underground bands both expat and Korean. cafe.daum.net/k250073 018-607-6321 Radio Star Jeonju Under the 7-11 in Junghwasan-dong. 011-9444-9609 Speakeasy Gwangju The fun never stops at this fantastic bar owned and operated by honest Irishman Derrek Hannon. 010-4713-3825 San Antonio Latin Bistro Suncheon Suncheon surprises with this Latinthemed restaurant and bar. Facebook group, pyroz@hotmail.com 061-724-2234

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JEOLLA

2011 K-League June 11th Jeonbuk vs Gyeongnam at Jeonju World Cup Stadium, 7 pm June 11th Gwangju vs Seongnam at Gwangju World Cup Stadium, 7 pm June 18th Gwangju vs Jeonnam at Gwangju World Cup Stadium, 7 pm June 18th Jeonbuk vs Jeju at Jeonju World Cup Stadium, 7 pm June 26th Jeonnam vs Gangwon at Gwangyang Stadium, 7 pm

disc ov er y

JEJU CALENDAR Art

DIS C OVERY

June 7th - 10th Jeju Haevichi Arts Festival This yearly festival is not only a chance for culture center professionals to network but also for anyone who enjoys the performance arts and the fine arts to take in some good shows. Haevichi Hotel and Resort Jeju in Seogwipo etc. jhaf.or.kr 02-586-1994.

Performances Ongoing

New English-Speaking Guesthouse Opens in Southwest Jeju

JEJU ISLAND

Big beds, low rates, and a great location are the selling points of this new foreigner-friendly guesthouse. The Springflower Guesthouse, which opened its doors this March, is run by Dean Brown and his wife Choon Wha (which means “spring flower” in Korean). When the couple decided to move from the mainland to Jeju to enjoy island living, they chose Moseulpo, a small town on the southwest side of the island, as the perfect spot for their new business. Why Moseulpo? One word: location. About an hour’s drive from both Jeju City and Seogwipo, the guesthouse is near many interesting sites, and it’s the only accommodation for miles with English-speaking owners. Because of its proximity to the end of Olle 10, the spot is popular with hikers, but it’s also a great place for those who want to relax and escape the busy city. Guests can take a short walk to the Moseulpo ferry terminal and hop on a boat to Gapa-do or Mara-do (the southernmost islands in Korea). Take a bus to Sanbangsan or Seongaksan for a bit of sightseeing combined with exercise. If you’d rather relax, check out nearby Tansan Oncheon (hot springs) or the Seon Meditation Museum. If you want to go fishing, rent a rod from the guesthouse and walk across the street. Whatever you’d like to do, Dean and Choon Wha are happy to make suggestions and find information for you. If you’re looking for nightlife and a party scene, Springflower is probably not the place for you, but if you’d like to experience a family-oriented atmosphere, you’ll love it. Each night around 8 pm, guests gather in the common area to chat or play games. On Saturdays, there’s a BBQ on the deck with tasty pork from the butcher downstairs. Both private and dorm-style rooms are available, with prices starting at W18,000 per night. All rooms are clean, comfortable and feature the biggest beds you’ll find in a Korean guesthouse. More detailed information on location and rates are available on the website. gojejuguesthouse.com 010-6816-8879 Words by A ng e la Jac obus shots provided by Spri ng fl ow e r Gu e st house

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Jump In its second decade, this popular martial arts comic show shows no signs of slowing. Halla Art Hall in Cheju Halla Collage. Tue-Fri 8pm; Sat 4, 8pm; Sun, holiday 8pm. Closed Mon. W40,000 W50,000. hijump.co.kr 064-749-0550

JEJU ISLAND Restaurants Bagdad Cafe Indian. Delicious, authentic Indian food made from local ingredients in a gorgeous atmosphere. Near City Hall in Jeju City 064-757-8182 Dom Jang Japanese. Spectacular sushi in several locations all over the island. The best atmosphere is in Jungmun. 064-738-2550

Island Gecko’s Western. A varied menu of terrific Western food, plus maybe the best cocktails and service on the island. The BBQ nights every weekend will blow you away with ribeye steak, sausages, and more for only W19,000. Jungmun. geckosterrace.com 064-739-0845 The Plate This modern bistro serves up a great American-style hamburger along with other Thai dishes. 064-746-8008 Zapata’s Mexican. Find it behind Burger King near City Hall in Jeju City. 064-722-3369

Entertainment

Nanta Nanta, the non-verbal performance that got started ten years ago, is a feast for the ears that turns ordinary kitchen pots and pans into a rhythm section. Jeju Media Center in Jeju City (064-727-7800). 90 min. Sun 8 pm, Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 pm, 8 pm. W40,000 - W50,000. nanta.i-pmc.co.kr 1544-1555

Alice in Wonderland Haunted House Try to escape from this maze of mirrors. Seogwipo. 064-794-4700 Halla Arboretum A collection of hundreds of trees and flowers native to the island. Jeju City. Free. sumokwon.jeju.go.kr 064-710-7575 Jeju Sea World Attractions include a circus, submarine, jetski, and marine resort. jejuseaworld.co.kr 064-784-2333 Seogwipo Astronomy Culture Center Jeju’s first observatory and astronomy museum. Tamna University in Seogwipo. astronomy.seogwipo.go.kr 064-739-9701

Theme Park

May 27th - 28th Lee So-ra Concert in Jeju Recently, through TV and Internet, her songs have received a lot of attention, and now you can feel it in person in Jeju. Jeju Munye Hoikwan Grand Theater in Jeju City. 120 min. Fri 8 pm, Sat 6 pm. W77,000 W99,000. interpark.com 1588-9124 June 4th Namjin 45th Anniversary Live Concert Namjin, beloved by Koreans for 45 years, was one of the first to introduce the idea of the concert to Korea. Tamra Hall at Jeju National Convention Center in Seogwipo City. 120 min. 3 pm, 7 pm. W77,000 W99,000. interpark.com 1599-3411

Sport & Fitness June 3rd - 20th Jeju Leisure Sports Festival Tourists and club members all over the world will participate in this huge-scale sports festival. Jeju Tapdong Square & Jeju Sports Complex in Jeju City. jejusi.go.kr 064-728-2754 2011 K-League June 11th Jeju vs Suwon 3 pm June 25th Jeju vs Kwangju 3 pm Both at Jeju World Cup Stadium.

Kimnyoung Maze Park The challenge is the thrill of the search and the reward the taste of success in ringing the bell! San 16, Kimnyoung-ri, Gujwa-eup, Jejusi, Jeju-do. jejumaze.com 064-782-9266

NETWORKING CALENDAR E dited by J isu n M o o n and dav id carru t h

Photos taken by Dylan Goldby at ANZA’s Ocean’s 11 Charity Ball, which was held on April 30th, 2011, at the Grand Hyatt Ballroom in Seoul.

Monday, May 30th BCCK Business Lunch Grand Hyatt Seoul. 1:30 pm. W50,000. RSVP to administrator@bcck.or.kr bcck.or.kr Thursday, June 2nd SIWA Newcomers’ Meeting Seoul Club. 10 am. W10,000. siwapage.com

Friday, June 3rd Summer Networking with YPE Korea Wine and a buffet at W23 in Chungdamdong. 6:30 pm. Bank transfer W40,000, at door W45,000. ypenergy.org Wednesday, June 8th SIWA Coffee Morning Grand Ambassador Hotel. 9:30 am - 11:30 am. Members W14,000, non-members W19,000. siwapage.com

Thursday, June 9th FKCCI Café du Commerce Novotel Ambassador Gangnam. 6:30 pm 8:45 pm. W24,000. Visit the website for more details. fkcci.com Friday, June 10th Mahjong with BASS Seoul Club. 10 am - 12:30 pm. W10,000. britishseoul.com Monday, June 13th AMCHAM Health Care Innovation Seminar 2011 Hotel Lotte in downtown Sogong-dong. 9 am - 5 pm. amchamrsvp@amchamkorea.org 02-6201-2200 Tuesday, June 14th BASS Catch Up Coffee 10 am - 12 pm. The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, Itaewon. Please RSVP. britishseoul.com

Friday, June 17th SGBSC-KBC Evening for Int’l Entrepreneurship 6 pm - 10 pm. Behive in Cheongdam-dong. Contact Joy at 02-6001-7242 for details. koreabusinesscentral.com, artbehive.com Wednesday, June 22nd BIWA Coffee Morning 9:30 - 11:30 am. Starbucks, Pale d’ CZ building. biwa-korea.com, leemalhya@yahoo.co.kr AMCHAM American Chamber of Commerce BASS British Association of Seoul BCCK British Chamber of Commerce Korea BIWA Busan Int’l Women’s Association FKCCI French Chamber of Commerce and Industry in Korea KBC Korea Business Central SGBSC Seoul Global Business Support Center SIWA Seoul Int’l Women’s Association YPE Young Professionals in Energy Korea

To list your event, contact David Carruth at calendar@10mag.com or 02-3447-1610 10 Magazine June 2011 | 71

NETWORKING CALENDAR

Friday, June 3rd Mahjong with BASS Join a fun group of ladies who enjoy playing the Western version of this Chinese tile game. All levels welcome. Refreshments provided. Seoul Club. 10 am - 12:30 pm. W10,000. britishseoul.com

Wednesday, June 8th BIWA Monthly Luncheon Farewell luncheon at Todai Centum City in Busan. 10:30 am - 2 pm. W25,000. biwa-korea.com

Cleaning Out My Closets Words by Sama n t h a Dix- Hill , I llustration by Pat rick Volz

y husband is a very sentimental man. I’m not. If I haven’t used something in the last twelve months I get rid of it, which could explain why I’m on my second husband. Twice a year I clean out and tidy closets, drawers and cupboards. My family believes I suffer from mild OCD, but those of you who have had to pack up and move every two to three years will understand why I do this. After four international moves I’ve managed to whittle our belongings down to

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the absolute necessities. As far as possible, I try and let my family know in advance what I plan to get rid of, although sometimes it’s kinder not to. Why is this relevant? Well, it’s coming up on that time of the year when a lot of expat contracts come to an end, especially for those of you with children still at school. A lot of you will be leaving Korea and if, like me, you are usually the one left supervising the packing up, I thought it might be worthwhile sharing a few tips and ideas with you.

Tip number one. It’s best to get rid of stuff while your husband, wife or partner is away on a business trip. My husband (the sentimental one) has kept all his sports memorabilia since high school. Jerseys, team ties, tee shirts and caps lie in a box waiting for a time when they can be hauled out to remind my husband (and his grandkids?) about the glory days. For years, we lugged his entire hockey goalie kit from country to country. It smelt like a dead person, and each time it was unpacked we received suspicious looks from the movers. Somewhere, deep in his daydreams, my husband had visions of donning the padded contraption again and throwing himself in front of low-f lying missiles. Thankfully, the rest of his body was not in harmony with his brain, and that scenario never came to pass. A few years ago, I managed to get rid of the dreaded kit, although I must admit to telling him that I’d packed it away in storage. What I didn’t tell him was that the storage facility is in a parallel universe. Second tip; I have a problem with cords, cables and plugs. I have a box filled with an assortment of electrical wiring and nobody can tell me what it’s for. The TV, telephone and DVD player all seem to be in good working order. The mobile phones all have their cables as does the camera. Yet when I try to quietly discard the tangle of wires, I’m met with incredulous protests and shrieks of dismay. My husband looks at me like I’m trying to rid the world of oxygen. He left on a business trip this morning and guess what’s not going to be here when he gets back. Use it or lose it. Finally, my most important words of wisdom, especially for the wives who usually do most of the supervising when the time comes to unpack everything on the other side. Grab a piece of paper and attach two pieces of string to it. Write down “NO, I DO NOT KNOW WHERE THE REMOTE CONTROL IS!” and hang it around your neck. Why is that always the first thing a man wants?

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