10 Magazine January 2012

Art • Theater • Concerts • Film • Community • Fitness • Dine & Drink • Nightlife • TRAVEL

Korea awaits! • january 2012 VOL. 4 NO. 4

외국인의 한국생활 노하우

Limited Access

The 10 Most Exclusive Places in the Nation Also: • Off the Beaten Path in China • History: Pranks in Pyongyang

• French Chef at Le Saint Ex • Stay Warm at Korea's Hot Springs

Printed using 100% soy ink.

10 is more than just a magazine...

10mag.com • facebook.com/10magazine • twitter.com/10_magazine 10mag.com/weekly10 • 10mag.com/podcast New podcasts are released on the 1st and 15th of every month.

It’s the total package.

January 2012 vol. 4 No. 4 Nationwide Calendar

4 From the Editor / Shot of Korean

38 Movies 50/50, Moneyball, My Sassy Girl

6 Contributors 8 Letters / Blog of the Month / Korea by the Numbers

39 TV Couples on SBS 40 Music Crying Nut, Galaxy Express, Apollo 18, Wonder Girls

9 Reader’s 10 10 10 Questions Simon Bell, Renaissance Seoul Hotel

Books Renaissance Fare

41 Tech Predictions for 2012

12 History Adventures in Pyongyang

Regional Calendar

14 Taste of Korea Kimchi Jjim

48 Seoul Discovery Lotte World Folk Village

15 In the Kitchen Chef Nicolas Bouynet

49 Seoul Editor’s Pick Notre-Dame de Paris

42 Seoul Food Review Vatos Urban Tacos

50 Seoul Editor’s Pick Seoul Electronic Music Festival

16 Korean Destination Top 4 Hot Springs

Shot by David Wills

18 Korean Destination Getting Down in Daegu

20 Asian Destination Anhui Province, China 30 Hotel & Resort News 32 Expat News 34 Gastronomic News 68 A Happy Ending

Korea’s 10 Exclusive Places 24

Private clubs, world-class resorts, and deluxe spas—if access is limited and service divine, you’ll find it in this article.

52 Seoul Editor’s Pick Ice Skating in Seoul 60 Gyeonggi Discovery Yeongtong in Suwon

62 Chungcheong Discovery Yuseong Hot Springs 64 Gyeongsang Discovery Hurshimchung Spa and Brewhouse

Bringing Things into Focus

S

o I’m sitting in a nice little breakfast place near our Itaewon office reading a magazine and in the background a song starts: “Threeee is a magic number...”

For many of you this is meaningless but for a person of my age and nationality it conjures up memories of a relaxing Saturday morning spent watching cartoons with my brothers enjoying mom’s pancakes. During commercials these educational animated music videos called School House Rock would come on and after seeing them about 100 times or so we’d be singing along. Heck, there were only three stations to watch after all, and only one channel had cartoons on all morning. “ABC” only meant cartoons to me back then, and when the cartoons were over I went out to play in the snow or the stream near my house, depending on the season.

No computers, no cell phones and no cable. We had all of three or four TV channels to choose from, and that was if you were lucky enough to live near a big city and had some good rabbit ears. When we first got cable it was hailed as “the end of commercials” and each hour of music videos, the VJ would announce, was brought to you by Twix or some other sugar-filled plastic wrapper. But I still never had to change the channel. For a kid in his early teens back then the only thing you could even think about watching was Nina Blackwood, Mark Goodman, Alan Hunter, J.J. Jackson, Martha Quinn and the videos they played, even if you had already watched them the first time around that day.

Now there are adults who can’t fathom such an era and look at the 80s the way I look at a cast iron stove. Those simpler days are long gone and although I appreciate having experienced them, I certainly don’t want them back. I love my email, my apps, my instant connections to friends and family, my safe air travel, the lack of towering infernos and my electric toothbrush. It really gets at those back molars.

But then again we now live in a world where we are bombarded by instant messages, information and constant advertisements; where keeping in touch with people is so convenient that juggling

online “friendships” with people you hardly know could consume your days if you let it. Something is always vying for our attention, and often that attention ends up being divided amongst many things - a practice we have started referring to as “multitasking.” Everyone still realizes the value of occasionally turning it all off, though. No one spends their vacations checking the SNS sites, but instead they go into radio silence. The thing you most look forward to is turning off your cell phone and your computer, spending time with friends and family, and having the time to curl up with a good book.

As we bring in 2012, I want to encourage you to put 10 Magazine to its intended use for your New Year’s resolution. Bring back some of that focus to your life. Make this the year you get out there and try all the experiences that truly touch the soul.

Enjoy the great music, art and culture that bring us all together.

Experience a half marathon in a remote city or hike Korea’s spectacular mountains to get a high like no other. Basketball, baseball and soccer games are g reat deals here and you can carry in a loaded ice chest to feed family and friends. And Korea is as obsessed as anywhere in the world with festivals, so get out there and enjoy the unique festivals around the country for ever y thing from movies to mime, from coffee to body painting.

And when you do, leave the cell phone behind. Don’t multitask. Focus.

Steph en R ev er e M anaging E dit o r

A Shot of Korean by Stephen Revere 집중! [ Jeep-joong ] - focus, attention When teachers walk into a crowded classroom of screaming, chaotic students, here’s the first thing they’ll often shout out. You can of course use this one in any situation, whether it be a classroom of screaming kids, a business meeting that has lost its way, or an evening out with friends where you want to make a toast. Whatever you’d like to bring attention to, this is your expression.

The new Korean Romanization rules say that a “이” is an “i” and a “우” is a “u.” The actual sound is more like the “ee” and “oo” used above, but I’ve changed them back to the regular rules below.

Have a Korean pronounce it for you and repeat their pronunciation. 여러분, 집중해 주세요! [Yeo-reo-bun, jip-jung-hae ju-se-yo!] Everyone, your attention please! 요새 집중 못해요. [Yo-sae jip-jung mot-hae-yo.] - I can’t focus nowadays.

Check out Survival Korean and Survival Korean: Basic Grammar Skills for more Korean lessons from 10’s Managing Editor, Stephen Revere.

4 | 10 Magazine January 2012

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Dongbu Rent a Car

David Birchall (p. 18) is an English teacher in Daegu. Hailing from Britain, he’s been in Korea for two years, but will soon be swapping the life of a rich teacher for that of a poor graduate student. Just one of the many excellent life choices he’s made.

CEO

Sang-tae Kim sangtaekim@10mag.com

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Kyounghee Lim kl@10mag.com Chan-hui Jeong finance@10mag.com Dami Kang dk@10mag.com

Finance Sales/Promotion

Executive Editor

Jai-yoon Kim jaiyoonkim@10mag.com Stephen Revere sr@10mag.com David Carruth dc@10mag.com

Managing Editor

Dyren Billups-Adams (p. 18) rarely leaves home without his camera. When he’s not teaching elementary school or playing softball, he’s hanging out with his closest friends (including his Canon DSLR) and having a good time. With a particular love of portrait photography, Dyren hones his passion for the recorded image by studying new trends and techniques in the field. Check out his flickr stream at flickr.com/photos/aquiluse.

Production Editor

10 S ta ff S po t l i g h t

Cassie Hwang, an easy-going college senior majoring in journalism, is passionate about contributing her talents to 10 Magazine. She enjoys traveling, reading, cooking and drinking.

Recently, she has also enjoyed volunteering to take care of abandoned animals.

Rob Ouwehand’s (p. 8) Korea adventure began in 2003, when he came here from Canada. Since then, he has been teacher and student, traveler and writer, all documented on his blog (roboseyo. blogspot.com). When he is not seeking out ways to enjoy life in Korea, he is at home with his baby boy. His friends actually do call him Roboseyo.

Danielle Sedlak (p. 24) is originally from St. Louis, Missouri, but has lived all over the US. She holds an MBA with a background in advertising and marketing, is currently working freelance on various projects in Seoul and is enjoying some serious traveling, food tastings, rice wine, and Korean culture. She is looking forward to her time in Seoul and the many experiences, both professional and cultural, it will bring.

Mary Rager-Summers (p.

66) is a brand-new mom and an adventure seeker. A native of Indiana in the US, Mary, along with husband Tom and daughter Kaylee, enjoys exploring what her current home on Jeju-do has to offer. She loves the outdoors and likes to spend her time riding off-road motorcycles, running, cooking, traveling, and sharing her experiences with others.

Contribute to 10 Magazine 10 Magazine is currently looking for contributors all over Korea to provide photography and articles. If you’re interested in gaining valuable writing experience and sharing your experience here with readers all across Korea, contact us at 10mag.com/contribute.

6 | 10 Magazine January 2012

Contributors Joshua Beagle, Michael Berry, Dyren Billups-Adams, David Birchall, Dominique Buck, Matthew Crawford, Curtis File, Ian Henderson, Nina Hoffman, Chelsie Kozera, Leroy Kucia, Angela Lee, Stafford Lumsden, Paul Matthews, Joe McPherson, John Mensing, Charles Montgomery, Robert Neff, Conor O’Reilly, Anna Orzel, Rob Ouwehand, Danielle Sedlak, Mary Rager-Summers, Martyn Thompson, Bryce Weibley, David Wills, Soyeon Kimberly Yoon, Troy Zitzelsberger Art Director

Hugh Lee hl@10mag.com Dylan Goldby dg@10mag.com Gregory Etheart ge@10mag.com

Photographer Contributing Designer Coordinators

Jessica Lee coordinator@10mag.com Jisun Moon jm@10mag.com

Interns

Cassie Hwang Young-rae Kim Yoo-jung Jang

Marketing Inquiries Calendar Events Contributions Comments Subscriptions

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The views expressed in these articles do not necessarily represent the views of 10 Magazine.

Please Recycle This Magazine

10 Magazine January 2012, Vol. 4 No. 4 등록번호: 용산 라 00184 (Registration: Yongsan Ra 00184) Address 서울시 용산구 이태원로 211 한남빌딩 10층 10th floor Hannam Buildling 211 Itaewon-ro, Seoul 140-893 Phone 02-3447-1610 www.10mag.com 10 Magazine is published monthly by 10 Media Inc. © All Rights Reserved.

DEPARTMENTS le tt ers Is 10 Out of Touch with Fashion?

I was delighted to see your recent article on Dressing the Part (December 2011), a guide to dressing for the party season, as I am always looking for new tips and trends. However, after reading I was compelled to write in. I’m not sure in what era your writer is living or what parties she is going to, but no woman is wearing a ballgown to any event over the holiday season in 2011.

And I mean no woman! For a very formal black-tie event an evening gown might be necessar y, but a moder n woman knows that an elegantly accessorized cocktail dress will see you through any occasion.

As for shopping on the Ewha wedding strip...please, bridesmaids dresses are not what women want. Not one of your female readers is shopping on that street for their festive frock. Wrap dresses - yes they are incredibly flattering and stylish but I would suggest that as a day-to-night or work party option. I had to google Nicky Minaj as I had never heard of her before, but from what google images showed me, she would never wear a wrap dress so

I don’t know what the comment “More Kate Middleton than Nicky Minaj...” could possibly have meant. Kate Middleton might wear wrap dresses but not to Christmas parties!

Women may want to look elegant and classic, or sexy and edgy. There are a variety of different dresses, tuxedo jackets, skirts and all manner of ‘party tops’ in stores. It’s all about styling and committing to a ‘look’. I’m not sure if your writer, or for that matter, your illustrator is in touch with either of these things.

I hope to see some more up-to-date fashion tips in future.

Anonymous reader in Yongsan, Seoul We here at 10 always love to take on a good fashion fight! It may be risky, but some fashionistas really know how to pull off a fab ballgown for formal event, and we suggest that you search “celeb ball gown” to see some really spectacular examples.

Oh, and if you think all Edae offers is wedding dresses, we would kindly encourage you to leave your vehicle while window shopping - there are some incredible treasures to be found, and we’ve even spotted a few famous faces there. But keep those letters coming!

10

Korea by the Numbers

1,040 13

Won paid in tax for every W2,000 litre of gasoline bought (52% tax rate).

The maximum percentage of the price of gasoline paid as tax in the United States (varies depending on the state). This tax is 30% in Canada, 41% in Japan, and 60% in Germany.

Won paid in tax for every W2,500 pack of cigarettes bought (62% tax rate).

0

Won paid in tax on all purchases of tap water, bus and subway fares, books, newspapers, stamps, lottery tickets, fruit, and unprocessed food (no tax is levied).

Source: Korea National Oil Corporation, National Tax Service

8 | 10 Magazine January 2012

Blog of the Month

The Three Wise Monkeys thethreewisemonkeys.com Words by Rob Ouwehand

These monkeys have tales.

The feature is called “Blog of the Month,” but creator Scott Liam Soper differentiates his online magazine, The Three Wise Monkeys (3WM), from other blogs: “We like to put the issues of our posts first and foremost for the reader... it is our sui generis content that we want the readers to come and appreciate...” Indeed, 3WM presents unique content: it avoids recycling commentary from other blogs. It tells stories in danger of going untold, sometimes controversial accounts from the margins of Korean and expat society.

It reached its zenith of relevance when an exposé on a dishonest travel agency led to coverage in other media, and finally an arrest.

3WM’s two main contributors’ pen names, Mizaru and Iwazaru, are from the wise monkeys who “See no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil” in Japanese folklore. The third monkey, Kikazaru, could be you: readers are invited to submit contributions to the site.

The Scores Content Because of 3WM’s numerous contributors, the content varies from writer to writer: pieces range from rambling to gorgeous, from unpolished to eye-opening.

Layout The accessible format highlights recent pieces and gives features prominence. The readable font and helpful tool bar make a lot of information easily and quickly available to viewers.

Professionalism 3WM has posted several articles almost every Monday since its inception. The deducted half-point is for the comment forums, which can get a little hairy at times, with even the site editors sometimes getting involved—though for some, that is an added attraction in itself.

THE READER'S 10

What Is the Article That You Most Want to Read in 10?

W

e’re very serious about giving our readers what they want, which is why we’ve devoted this month’s Reader’s 10 to your preferences regarding our content. And in this case, the consensus is pretty clear: readers want more pieces on traveling and exploring. Off-the-beatenpath destinations were the number one response, and readers will be happy to know that David Wills’ piece in this issue on Anhui Province, China, is exactly that. And in upcoming issues, we’ll be doing our best to print entertainingly written and accurately researched pieces on the other topics you voted for.

10 More diversity in music section of calendar including classical and indie 9 Expanded Shot of Korean section with more Korean expressions 8 Traditional Korean restaurants and restaurants outside of Seoul 7 Profiles of famous Koreans living and dead, such as artists and politicians 6 List of the best restaurants serving various kinds of Korean food 5 Reviews of good Korean movies released in the past 4 Cheap motels, pensions, and other good places to stay when traveling 3 Walking tours of various cities 2 Profiles of foreigners and their experiences here

kor ean desti nation

1 Tourist destinations that are not so well known The February poll will be continuing the theme that we established above: getting reader feedback to make the magazine even better. This time, we’re hoping to hear your thoughts about the format: which parts should be kept, and which should be tossed?

Do you love our In the Kitchen chef interviews? Or maybe it’s Managing Editor Stephen Revere’s Korean language column A Shot of Korean that you most enjoy? Your opinions matter to us!

What are your favorite sections in 10 Magazine?

We’ll be skipping the open thread this month and putting all the sections up in our poll right away. Head over to 10mag.com/ readers10 starting on December 26th to find the poll and cast your vote. The poll will be open through January 16th, and the results as always will run in our February issue.

10 Magazine January 2012 | 9

10 Qu estions

S

ome may not know that worldwide the Renaissance hotels are all part of the greater Marriott chain of hotels. The Renaissance in Seoul is one of Korea’s largest hotels, with almost 500 rooms. This month we sat down with Simon Bell, who after a two-year stint as general manager at the Courtyard Marriott Seoul Times Square has now moved over to Gangnam to head up Seoul’s historic Renaissance Hotel.

S H ot by Dy l a n Gol d by

Simon Bell General Manager at the Renaissance Seoul Hotel

10 10 Magazine January 2012

1. How did you get involved in the hotel business?

My home town is a resort city in Australia. I grew up near the beach surrounded by luxury hotels and my parents owned a shop which I used to help out in on the weekends. I really enjoyed the customer interaction so I thought I would give the hotel business a go. From my first day on the job I fell in love with the industry and decided this is what I wanted to do for the rest of my life.

2. You travel a lot with this type of job, don’t you? Where has your career with Marriott taken you?

I have been really lucky with Marriott in that I have been with the company for 19 years now and have been given many opportunities to work in different cities. Before leaving Australia I had the opportunity to work in 3 different cities, including Sydney during the 2000 Olympic Games. Then I moved to the Caribbean and lived on the remote island of St. Kitts before coming back to Asia and to Korea.

T he g reat thi ng about ou r company, though, is if you are happy living where you are then you don’t have to move, so I look forward to staying in Korea for a long time to come.

3. You spent two years at the Courtyard Marriott Seoul Times Square before you moved to the Renaissance. How did you find your time there?

It was a great experience for me. I opened the hotel, so it was really exciting to set up the hotel and purchase everything right down to the knives and forks. It was also very rewarding because that hotel is the f lagship for Courtyard in Asia, so there was a lot of pressure to ensure that the hotel was successful from a branding

standpoint. We were one of only a few hotels in our company to open our doors to 100% occupancy and I am very proud to say the hotel still continues to perform very well. I also learned very quickly about doing business in Korea, which of course helped me get promoted to the Renaissance Hotel.

4. You must like life in Seoul if you changed hotels and yet stayed here. What do you enjoy about living in Korea?

There are so many things my family and I love about Korea.

We love the food, we love the people, we love how safe it is here and the countryside outside of Seoul is just beautiful. We try to get out of Seoul as much as we can and experience everything Korea has to offer. We also love the fact that Korea has four distinct seasons which we really don’t get to experience in Australia.

5. What can you tell us about the Renaissance Seoul?

The Renaissance Seoul Hotel is the hotel in Gangnam and is actually one of the largest Renaissance hotels we have in Asia.

The hotel is well-known for the friendly traditional Korean service and is located close to the COEX convention center and the Gangnam business district. The hotel has 11 different restaurants and bars and great meeting facilities that can cater for everything from small board meetings right up to gala dinners. We even have a couple of Korean ondol style rooms (traditional floor heating rooms with bedding cushions on the floor) for those guests who really want to experience traditional Korea.

6. We know your new hotel also has quite a history. Can you tell us a little bit about that?

The Renaissance Seoul Hotel opened in 1988 and became part of the Marriott International brand in the late 90s. Since its opening, the hotel has been an iconic hotel at the center of the Gangnam business area. We’ve won awards for our restaurants, including the Best Business Hotel and Food & Beverage Hotel by the Korea Times and the Korea Herald. We have also welcomed heads of state and VIP guests during their visits to Korea such as the president of Indonesia during the G20 in 2010.

7. What would you like to accomplish at the Renaissance over the next few years?

There are a lot of things I hope to accomplish during my time here but most importantly I want to continue to position this hotel as the #1 hotel in the Gangnam area. We have some interesting plans for our restaurants in 2012 so keep your eye on us.

8. How has your family adjusted to life in Korea?

Both of my children have spent more time here than they have in Australia so I guess they could be considered Koreans now. We have all adjusted to the way of life here very quickly and really embraced the culture and history of this country. We have made some great friends here and really have no plans to move anywhere else.

9. You have a newborn here in Korea too. How is it raising an infant here?

To be honest it was not as hard as you may think. I am very lucky to have a wife who is a great mom and she has done an amazing job raising both our kids while I spend most of my time at work. The great thing about having young kids here is that they have picked up some Korean phrases so I hope they can continue to grow their Korean language skills. The only thing we have missed raising our kids here is not having “Grandma and Pop� down the road, but various family members try to come up and see us every few months so that is a great help.

10. Do you have any advice for new arrivals in Korea?

Remember you are a guest in their country so respect their culture and way of life. Learn some basic phrases in Korean and that will go a long way. Also don’t be afraid to get out and explore Korea. My family and I have driven across to the east coast many times; we have been as far south as Jeju and love the skiing out at Yongpyong. Korea has a lot to offer so enjoy it!

10 Magazine January 2012 | 11

t JOGP!JOUDVMUDPN DPN

Fear and Loathing in Pyongyang The anti-Western sentiment pervasive in Pyongyang today has a long history, as historian Robert Neff recounts.

M

uch as it is now, Pyongyang in the late 1880s and early 1890s was pretty much anti-Western. The legacy of the General Sherman in 1866 gives testimony to the residents’ stoic opposition to all things Western. The General Sherman was a ship that traveled up the Taedong River to the city, despite being warned not to, and was then subsequently destroyed. The city was and presently is a bastion of conservatism and unwillingness to accept change.

There were few Western visitors, the only exceptions being the occasional French priests and American missionaries. One of the earliest American missionaries was Samuel Moffett. It is through his writing that we get a candid glimpse of the city in the early 1890s and the troubles associated with being a foreigner. His visit started out uneventfully; “The streets we found to be as usual narrow and filthy, and crowded with shops of native wares. The people whom we had often heard to be more warlike and independent than other hermits seemed to us in their appearance and disposition a very ordinary lot, perhaps a little less noisy and somewhat more polite than the natives of the south.”

12 10 Magazine January 2012

But that initial opinion changed relatively quickly. For about a week Moffett and his companions lived quietly in a Korean inn, but whenever they went out on to the streets they “were followed by an innumerable company of spectators, whose outbursts of laughter as we walked along seemed to betoken something extraordinary in our personal appearance.”

Moffett and the subsequent missionaries felt insulted by the Koreans’ reaction to their presence. Sometimes it wasn’t just jeers and insults that were hurled. The Koreans in this region were very skilled stone-throwers and the missionaries found themselves the targets on more than one occasion.

Sometimes, though, the missionaries may have been partly to blame. James Scarth Gale, a Canadian missionary, seems to have taken more than a few liberties with his Korean hosts. Once when confronted with a shallow but swift mountain stream, Gale hailed a nearby Korean coolie [porter], asking him to kindly carry him across in return for pay. The Korean refused and told Gale to make his own way across and then started to ford the stream alone. Gale, shocked at the perceived impertinence of the coolie, suddenly jumped upon his back and would not let go. The coolie “muttered to himself awful threatenings, proceeded slowly, stopping to reconsider in the middle of the stream, but it was hopeless and so he landed [Gale] safely.”

Gale promptly offered his apologies and a fairly large amount of money as a form of indemnity. Years later Gale wrote: “He (the coolie), however, stood looking at me in speechless amazement and is standing so yet for aught I know.”

Pyongyang circa 1920-1930

Words BY Robert Neff Photos courtesy of the Robert Neff collection

But this wasn’t Gale’s only imposition. Later, he and another missionary (perhaps Moffett) found accommodations at a small inn operated by an elderly couple. The wife was extremely nice and told them that she knew Westerners were good people and there to help the Korean people and not harm them. According to Gale, “this was encouraging, like rain on thirsty ground, after being pointed out for weeks as foreign devils.”

Gale discovered a fishing pole in the inn and decided to do some fishing to while away the afternoon. Gale considered himself part of the family and could see no reason why he should ask anyone for permission to use the pole—but he was wrong.

Making his way down to the river he cast the line in. Suddenly, as he recalls, “I felt a shock, not from a bite, but from a call behind me to bring home that fish rod. I pretended not to hear.

The storm would blow over in a little [while].” Unperturbed, he resumed fishing and was excited when he felt a bite but then “a whirlwind suddenly caught me, in which I lost line, fish, interest and everything. When I came properly to, an old Korean, seventy years of age, was carefully putting a fish-rod back in its place…”

Gale had been taught a lesson.

Gangnam / Myeongdong / Sadang / Mokdong / Yeomchang / Seogyo / Seoyeouido Wangsimni / Times Square / Seoul Station / Yongsan Station / Eunpyeong Seoul Finance Center / Myeongdong (ANEX) / Samseong (COEX) / Jongno Ilsan / Suwon Ingye / Bucheon Jungdong / Dongtan Megapolis / Pyeongtaek E-Mart Busan Lotte Dapartment (Gwangbok) / Busan Haeundae / Cheonan Sinbu Changwon / Gwangju Sangmoo / Ulsan / Incheon Concourse

Balsan (OPEN: 13, Dec) / Daejeon Complex Terminal (OPEN: 20, Dec)

Seven Star Gate Circa 1909

Pyongyang circa 1905 10 Magazine January 2012 | 13

Valid through February 28th, 2011

A TASTE OF KOREA

Kimchi Jjim

김치찜

Steamed Kimchi

W o r ds by S t ephe n R e v ere , sh ot by J osh ua B e ag le

There is hardly a more delicious and representative combination in Korean cuisine than pork and kimchi.

Y

ou’ll run across pork and kimchi most commonly in kimchi jjigae (김치찌개, kimchi stew) but you’ll also find it in other dishes. For example:

• Bossam (보쌈), which has its very own type of kimchi served with it • Dubu kimchi (두부김치), which is stir-fried pork, veggies and kimchi served with tofu • Samgyeopsal (삼겹살), which is often grilled up along with kimchi • Kimchi tacos, the fusion of East and West that is now incredibly popular back in the US

Kimchi jjim, however, is the best of them all.

The ideal kimchi to use for this dish is well-fermented kimchi, otherwise known as “sour” kimchi (신김치). To do it right the kimchi should have been fermented for quite a long time—up to a year or two. This pungent flavor adds a nice tang to the dish and brings out the flavor of the pork. When the pork and kimchi are slow-cooked together, the pork infuses its flavor into the kimchi, giving the dish a sweet crunchiness.

Finding a restaurant that does kimchi jjim well is rather rare.

It’s a time-consuming dish to prepare, as you have to cook it for an hour or longer, which is not conducive to the quick prepara-

tion necessary in restaurants. Hence, places that serve this dish right are often specialty restaurants that focus on a few dishes, one of these being kimchi jjim. My favorite place is actually a chicken hof (호프, pub) near Hakdong Station in Seoul that serves kimchi jjim only during the lunch hour. They don’t serve anything else. You walk in and yell out “Saminbun!” (삼인분, three servings), and within 3 to 5 minutes a heaping serving of spicy pork and kimchi is headed your way—and for only W5,000 a person. Ridiculously good food for the price. (Come out Hakdong Station exit 6, go 3 blocks, and turn right at Waazwiz, just past the Alpha office supply store.)

One great thing about this dish, however, is it’s relatively easy to cook on your own. The main feature is that you have to slow-cook the pork and kimchi together for an hour or more.

You can use pork rib meat or pork belly, or even just samgyeopsal, which is after all just sliced pork belly. For a leaner cut, request moksal (목살, literally “neck meat”). There are a ton of preparation methods out there, so experiment to determine your own. Visit 10mag.com/kimchi-jjim-video for Arirang TV’s video of kimchi jjim prepared by the former executive chef of the InterContinental Hotel (and previous writer of this column) Paul Schenk.

Now the actual word jjim (찜) just means boiled or braised, so you may run into other varieties like kkongchi kimchi jjim (꽁치김 치찜) or galbi kimchi jjim (갈비김치찜), but the most frequent and most delicious variety is just this good ol’ pork kimchi jjim.

Netizen’s Picks Hanokzip 한옥집

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Tourists to Seoul often head to Jongno to see the Cheonggyecheon and Insadong. Take advantage of your time there to try the delicious eats at Hanokzip. This restaurant, housed in a 200-year-old hanok (traditional Korean house), is famous for its kimchi jjim. A bowl costs W7,000, with unlimited rice refills. Closed Sunday. 112, Jongno 5-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul. 02-742-3002

10 Magazine January 2012

Dama Kimchi Jjim 담아 김치찜

Steamed kimchi (the literal meaning of “kimchi jjim”) usually means kimchi and pork, but Dama Kimchi gives you plenty of other choices.

The extensive menu lets you replace the pork with pollack, mackerel, and pork ribs. These all go for W6,000, with as much rice as you want.

935-16, Nohyeong-dong, Jeju-si, Jeju-do. 064-755-1091

Onggi Kimchijip 옹기 김치집

The best time to enjoy Onggi Kimchi’s set menu, which features various kinds of kimchi jjim and free refills on rice, is lunch, when the prices drop by as much as W8,000. One pleasant surprise is that the rice is served bento-style in an aluminum box with sliced spam (don’t knock it till you try). 170-34, Bujeon-dong, Busanjin-gu, Busan. kimchizip.com 051-816-0955

IN THE KITCHEN Bien sûr, if you’re looking for the true taste of France, Le Saint-Ex’s Chef Nicolas Bouynet is the one to meet.

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taewon’s Le Saint-Ex has just celebrated its eleventh birthday, quite a feat for any restaurant, let alone a small French bistro in the heart of Seoul, where dining establishments come and go in the blink of an eye. Lucky for us, Chef Nicolas Bouynet is at the heart of this well-loved landmark and is committed to serving fabulous French food for a long time to come.

His childhood in Bordeaux and the Dordogne gave Chef Bouynet his passion for cuisine. Spending time with his grandfather, visiting markets and tasting food together—he was destined to cook the food of his home. His work took him to Biarritz and then on to the Caribbean. After six years cooking on the beautiful island of St. Barts, he was contacted about coming to Korea and decided he wanted a change.

Three years ago Chef Bouynet set foot in Seoul and knew that this was the opportunity he had been waiting for. Starting as sous-chef at Le Saint-Ex was a culture shock: after

working in French-speaking kitchens for all his life, he had to adapt to working in English with his fellow kitchen staff, but he loves his job. Here, he has the freedom to play with seasonal ingredients and create his own dishes.

Last year he became chef of Le Saint-Ex, and it is inspiring to see his passion for food. When we meet he shows me his blackboard menus, pointing out the specials of the day and tells me that he has just got back from the Noryangjin fish market where he found beautiful baby calamari in season. Sure enough, on the board he has already put up “caramelized baby calamari with arborio risotto.” For Chef Bouynet, it is all about the freshest, tastiest local products he can find.

He’s also not afraid to step out of the kitchen and try Korean food.

Chef Bouynet’s philosophy is “If people can eat it, I can eat it,” and true to his word he’s willing to try ever y thing. He k nows that each country has its own tastes and is sensitive to the mix of Korean, French and other foreign customers. Tasting and testing food with his staff, he makes sure he can bring the best seasonal cuisine to the table. His passion comes across in his menu, and when you step inside Le Saint-Ex and try his food, you realize you are getting a true taste of France.

The Flavor of France W o r ds a n d sh ot s by Pau l M at t hews

Chef Nicolas Bouynet’s Fondant Au Chocolat • 140g dark chocolate • 100g butter • 2 eggs

C hef ’ s t i p :

Just before you put the fondant in the oven, you can push a piece of white chocolate into the center of the fondant. Serve with pistachio ice-cream.

• 50g sugar • 40g plain flour

1 Melt the dark chocolate with the butter.

2 Whip the eggs and sugar together until foamy and white.

3 Combine the chocolate/butter mix with the egg/sugar mix and add the flour.

4 Butter a baking cup and pour the mixture inside.

5 Bake in the oven for 12 minutes at 180 degrees Celsius.

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kor ean desti nation

Images provided by various Onyang hotels

Understanding and Enjoying Korea’s Hot Springs Words by Matthew C. Crawford Watch out: reading this article could land you in some hot water.

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ou reach the spa. The first step is to pay at the counter, where you’ll receive a paper receipt. If you haven’t already done so, take off your shoes and find a shoe locker. Hold onto the key—you’ll need to present this at the next station, the desk inside the changing room. Stow your personal effects in your locker and slip the key bracelet around your wrist or ankle. Shower thoroughly. Now you are ready to enter any of the pools in whichever order you like for as long as you can stand the heat.

The process is almost identical for every spa across the country— and there’s at least one for every neighborhood (look for the red neon signs that say “sauna,” or “사우나” in Korean). But Koreans are sensitive to varying levels of quality, especially when it comes to health, and the locals know that hot spring spas are the best.

Not all foreign visitors and residents, though, are aware of

16 | 10 Magazine January 2012

Korea’s hot spring culture. In order to bridge this hot, steaming gap, I met with Dr. Yun Seong-taek, a hot spring expert in the Department of Earth and Environmental Science at Korea University. Soon after I arrived, we sat down next to a wall of books and academic journals in the center of his office and began to talk hot springs. From Dr. Yun, I learned that there are more than 400 hot springs in South Korea and, though distributed quite evenly, those in the southeast are the hottest.

Compared to Ring of Fire countries like Japan and Taiwan, the out-flowing temperatures of South Korean hot springs are on the lower side. Because of the lower temperatures, Korean hot wells usually do not reach all the way to the surface and overflow. So while Korea has hot springs, they are without the special effects found in places like Yellowstone National Park.

According to Dr. Yun, there is a big difference between a regular Korean spa and a hot spring spa. A regular spa uses ground water from shallow wells with relatively low mineral content.

At hot spring areas, however, rain water penetrates deep into the earth’s crust, coming into contact with cooling magma. On its way down, high temperatures cause the water to react with minerals in the rocks, making the circulating water highly enriched. Then through thermal convection the steaming water cycles back up to the surface again. Dr. Yun classifies the country’s hot springs into four main types: alkaline (most common), saline (usually near the coast), CO2 (bubbly), and sulfate (rotten egg fragrance).

Because of his busy schedule Dr. Yun has few opportunities to actually immerse himself in Korean hot springs. Equipping myself with a pen and notepad (and mini shampoo), I set out to continue the research on my own.

Onyang Hot Spring 온양 온천

Cheoksan Hot Spring 척산 온천

“It’s over 600 years old, but there’s been some remodeling,” I was told by the woman at the tourist information desk. Near the border of Gyeonggi Province, Onyang has a huge selection of hot spring spas and hotels. The oldest is the Onyang Hot Spring Hotel, first built in 1904. Long before this, it was part of the Joseon royal family’s hot spring palace. While there are only four pools, the pistachio tones inside and the bamboo screen outdoors make it quite relaxing.

Touted as Gangwon Province’s top hot spring, Cheoksan is conveniently located for sufferers of hiking cramps as well as polar bear swim participants. Midway between Seoraksan National Park and the city of Sokcho, this hot spring is said to have once been a lotus pond. In operation since 1973, the Cheoksan Hot Spring Hotel is preferable to the nearby public spa because of its sublime mountain views and the variety of its pools.

Ge t t i n g There

Ge t t i n g There

Onyang is serviced by buses from every major station in Seoul, by subway (bring a large book for the ride), and by train (disembark at Cheonan).

Price at Onyang Hot Spring Hotel (온양 관광호텔): W5,500 for adults. onyanghotel.co.kr 041-540-1000 “Onyang is a typical alkalitype hot spring, so the pH is comparatively high.” D r. Yu n

From the Sokcho Express Bus Terminal, taxi fare is W6,000.

Alternatively, catch city bus 3 or 3-1; both begin their routes at the Intercity Bus Terminal.

Price at Cheoksan Hot Spring Hotel (척산 온천 휴양촌): W7,000 for adults. choksan.co.kr 033-636-4000 “Cheoksan is another alkali type, like most hot springs in South Korea.” D r. Yu n

Damyang Hot Spring 담양 온천

Bugok Hot Springs 부곡 온천

Deep in the heart of bamboo country, Damyang Hot Spring Resort, built in 2003, wouldn’t be out of place somewhere in the Mediterranean. The spacious, white-tiled spa is a sanctuary for city dwellers, but beware the massage pool—the falling jets are like blasts from a pressure washer. Be sure to try the novelty pools saturated with bamboo sap, bamboo leaves, and green tea.

They say that there was a stream in Bugok that was so hot you could do your laundry in it even in the winter. A hot spring prospector heard this rumor and decided to drill for hot water. Soon he struck clear gold. Since 1973, over a dozen hot spring hotels have sprouted up in this sleepy town. Those seeking an open air unisex hot spring can find one at Bugok Hawaii. Among the hotel spas, Hyundai Hotel is said to be the best.

Ge t t i n g There

You may want to use nearby Gwangju as your base for visiting Damyang. A taxi from Damyang Terminal costs W10,000.

Alternatively, there are nine local buses per day from Damyang Intercity Terminal (담양 시외터미널).

Price at Damyang Resort (담양 리조트): W7,500 for adults.

damyangspa.com 061-380-5000 “Damyang is not a well-known hot spring—you’d better delete it from your list.” D r. Yu n

Ge t t i n g There

A bus from Miryang Intercity Bus Station to Bugok costs W2,500.

Price at Hyundai Hot Spring Hotel (현대 온천 호텔): W4,000 for adults. 055-536-5391 “Bugok is the most noteworthy hot spring in South Korea and it is also the hottest, with temperatures sometimes reaching 75 degrees.” D r. Yu n

10 T i p

In addition to these four hot springs, you can also read about Daejeon’s Yuseong Hot Spring in the Chungcheong Calendar (p. 62) and Busan’s Hurshimchung Spa in the Gyeongsang Calendar (p. 64).

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kor ean desti nation

W o r ds by Dav i d B i rch a ll a n d sh ot s by Dy re n B i ll u ps - A da ms

The land-locked city of Daegu is best known for its textile factories, beautiful women, and the muggy summers that result from its position in a basin surrounded by mountains. But as Daegu-resident David Birchall reveals, there’s so much more than that.

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011 was a big year for little ol’ Daegu, as the city welcomed the international jet set for the IAAF Track and Field Games this past August. It was a time for the city to blow off ingrained prejudices and welcome ripped waygooks from across the globe to the 66,000-seat Daegu Stadium. The sprinters and discus throwers have all gone home by now, but there’s still loads for visitors to do.

Pitch up at Banwoldang subway station and you’ve near enough found our epicenter. Endless rows of shops will beg for your money, be it a thousand won for plastic earrings or two million for a handbag at one of the vast department stores. Of course, Korean restaurants abound and you can always find your favorite, but the best bet for Western cravings are the huge burgers of Traveller’s Bar or the sloppy kebabs of the Turkish-owned Star

Kebab, both minutes from the subway. Soon nightlife beckons, but any seasoned veteran knows you go first to the simply perfect Vinaroo, where a cocktail in a bag will cost you W4,000.

Downtown contains a madness of bars and clubs, and each dangles flashy carrots to lure pretty young things through their doors. Like the smell of urine and sweat at 4 am? Then head to the dark basement that is Who’s Bob. Like Thursday Party? We have two. All the gangstaz head to Urban, while the hardcore raving crew gets down to DJ Deported Noize in Kush. The slick and suave are only ever seen in Daegu’s very own superclub, Pasha. That one really is a bit special.

At a smattering of venues across the city, fine expat bands turn out regularly. Two of the best are Levine and Death by Kimchi, both of which were formed, cut their teeth and now continue their refinement here in Daegu.

As ever after a night out, you will wake up and weather permitting head out for some good-time frolicking at the sprawling Duryu Park. It’s all too easy to spend a day among the acres of manicured lawns, the bungeejumpable Daegu Tower and particularly Eworld (formerly known as Woobang Land), a fun, if not awe-inspiring, theme park that only sets you back W20,000. Eworld’s greatest rival is Spa Valley, and for about the same price you get access to a genuinely fun water park with loads of slides, swimming pools and hot pools. You’ll need to take a cab

Daegu Directory Get in touch with some of Daegu’s essential establishments using the contact info below.

ganga.co.kr 053-768-3610 eworld.kr 053-620-0001 Ku sh kushdaegu.com M aya 053-214-1916 Pash a club.cyworld.com/pashaclub S pa Va lle y spavalley.co.kr 053-608-5000 Sta r K eba b 053-424-9951 G a ng a

18 10 Magazine January 2012

E world

Facebook group 010-4911-1168 Th u rs day Pa rt y 053-422-6621 Tr av eller’s Ba r travelersbar.com

010-4591-4869 Urba n facebook.com/groups/Urbanbar W ho’s Bob Facebook group S ug a r Joe ’s

Sy d n e y S tree t

from downtown, but there’s no place better on a hot, hot day.

Fashionistas head south to the enormous Suseong Lake, which becomes a whirling tempest of beautiful people at the mere hint of warmth. Situated in the fancy part of town, the surrounding streets are lined with epicurean delights, including our very own Ganga Indian restaurant, numerous top-dollar galbi haunts, and, even a restaurant inside a real-life airplane. For kids and drunks there are swan boat rides around the lake and a fairly inauspicious fairground, featuring insanely easy dart throwing games, a 4D ride and a haunted house.

Once you’ve exhausted these tributes to modernity, you may be begging for some nature. If so, head to Mount Palgongsan.

Situated in the northern outreaches of Daegu, this series of peaks allows for all manner of hikes, from the highly strenuous to the lazy, beer-bellied stroll. Sites include Donghwasa Temple, where you can meet the resident monks, and the Gatbawi stone Buddha, a 4-meter tall statue high up on Palgongsan’s slopes. It was carved

Top Five Things to Do While in Daegu 5

Force down a Traveller’s Mega Burger--free beer if you can finish in the hour!

4

Sweat your way up one of Palgongsan’s numerous peaks.

3

Stroll down Jungangno, where every Western craving can be satisfied.

2

Act suave in Club Pasha.

1

Scream as you plummet from Duryu’s Daegu Tower.

over 1,000 years ago, and, according to theologians, can even grant wishes.

One of the beauties of Daegu is how easy it is to get around. The two-line subway system and legion of buses means you’re never much more than 30 minutes from downtown, and the two large university districts here are easily accessible. The largest of these is Kyungpook National, inconveniently off the subway line, but cab fare from downtown is only W3,000. Here lies Daegu’s finest Indian restaurant, Maya, and Sugar Joe’s, a popular place for foreign bands to play, as well as a host of cheap shops, bars, coffee shops and eateries.

Slightly further out, ten stops west on the green line to be precise, lies Keimyung University. This area is replete with wellpriced restaurants and makgeolli houses, along with a number of good expat bars. Worth a mention is the infamous Sydney Street, run by your classic drunken Ozzie, and home to every kind of drunken vice you could wish for.

Slightly further afield, tourist attractions such as Haeinsa Temple, home to the 81,000-wooden block Tripitaka Koreana, give footloose travelers even more to experience. But after a day in the field, it’s back to Daegu for a nightcap and a pleasant rest before you bid the city goodbye.

Our dishes are tastefully served by professional wait staff including a French-trained BP (brevet professionnel) sommelier.

Special offers for 10 Magazine readers* Mention this ad and The Spice will waive corking fee on parties of 6 or more that book our private dining room and order from our delectable set menu during this holiday season.* The Spice is also running an Oyster and Sparkling Wine promotion to showcase French seed oysters grown on the West Coast of Korea.

NEW to The Spice, Draft Beer!

Buy two and get one free.

Leeum Museum

Itaewon-ro Itaewon Stn.

10 Magazine January 2012 | 19

Hangangjin Stn.

729-45 Hannam-dong Youngsan-gu, Seoul For reservations call 02-749-2596 www.gurulife.co.kr

Asi an Desti nation

Anhui Province, China Further Off the Beaten Track Wo r ds a n d Ph oto s by Dav i d W i lls

If you want to find the undiscovered side of China, forget the Great Wall and head to rustic Anhui Province, a region poor in resources but rich in natural beauty.

Stunning scenery at Huangshan

20 10 Magazine January 2012

L

ike so many young Westerners, I have long been fascinated with adventure and that old cliché: getting “off the beaten track.” The problem with this idea, of course, is that anyone who’s actually ventured away from their own country to go someplace that none of their peers have been inevitably finds that someone else got there first. Asia has long been a popular destination for travelers from English-speaking countries seeking hidden paradises and a shelter from the Western world. Of course, when they get there, they find enclaves like Khao San Road and Koh Samui, where you can barely find a person who doesn’t speak English.

My first experience with the disappointment of failing to stray from “the track” was when I visited Laos. Lonely Planet called it “Asia’s forgotten country” and I fell head over heels in love with the idea of this hidden gem. My big mistake was in taking the advice of publications with millions of readers who would inevitably have jumped to the same conclusions and ideas as me.

When I arrived in Laos, I found myself surrounded by white people with cameras, always queuing to see the same damn things.

It’s hard to get off the beaten track when everywhere you go you’re greeted by locals with their palms outstretched and a phrase list comprised only of numbers and currencies.

In 2010 I took a job in China because I needed to save some money. I had heard that it was the least “fun” place to teach English, but China is surprisingly cool. The main downside is that without speaking Chinese, it can be quite tough to get around. Outside of Beijing, Shanghai, and Guangzhou, there really aren’t enough foreigners to form any kind of expat community, or to warrant any legitimate effort at helping or guiding tourists. Besides, tourism away from the Great Wall and the Terracotta Warriors still hasn’t really taken off, and China’s tourist boards don’t seem particularly interested in promoting other areas.

Anhui Province is one of China’s poorest areas. It is mountainous, has poor soil, and no natural resources. The summers are brutally hot, and the winters mercilessly cold. No particularly big battles were fought here, and no ancient capitals existed in Anhui. It lies a mere three-hour train ride west of Shanghai, but it may as well be on a different planet. The majority of Chinese citizens can’t place it on a map. Every town and city has its own thick dialect that is virtually incomprehensible to people born even a few towns over. The overwhelming majority of people in Anhui have never even seen a foreigner, and visitors are treated much like an extraterrestrial would be just about anywhere else in the world.

Yet it’s perhaps for these reasons that Anhui is an ideal destination for the adventurous traveler in search of something truly “off the beaten track.” Anhui is a challenge for tourists, and succeeding here is its own reward. There are no signposts in English, no menus that are comprehensible to anyone not fluent in Mandarin, and even Chinese from other parts of the country are baffled by the odd customs and chaos of life in this ancient place.

T h e Ci t i e s China’s cities are uniformly over-crowded and polluted. They may hold a few interesting parks and tourist attractions, but tourists would do well to get out into the country.

H efe i The first port of call for any traveler will likely be Hefei, the capital city of Anhui. Its small airport is served by f lights from around China that mostly arrive at the same time—late at night, leading to numerous delays. From there it’s a cheap cab ride to anywhere in the city (if, of course, you can explain in Chinese where you want to go).

Despite having almost nothing in the way of tourist attractions, Hefei does get a number of foreign visitors. It’s a hub of business, particularly for German and Japanese companies, and therefore there are a number of high quality (and expensive) hotels, including a Hilton, several Holiday Inns, and a Howard Johnson.

Fortunately though, if you can find your way out of Hefei, there is plenty to see.

10 Magazine January 2012 | 21

HONGDAE NANTA THEATRE Mon.-Sun. & Holidays 17:00, 20:00 MYEONGDONG NANTA THEATRE Mon.-Sun. & Holidays 14:00, 17:00, 20:00 GANGBUK JEONG DONG NANTA THEATRE Mon.-Sun. & Holidays 17:00, 20:00 Booking & Info. 02-739-8288 www.nanta.co.kr become a member for free and get a 10% discount every day

Asi an Desti nation W u h u Wuhu is more attractive than Hefei, but only because it’s smaller and has been the focus of less development. It’s two hours from Hefei by train, but not really worth seeing. The only real draw for tourists is FantaWild Adventures, a giant theme park that is basically an odd rip-off of Disneyland.

T h e N at iona l Pa r ks Although China’s cities might be filthy and unattractive, the mountains rival almost anywhere on earth in beauty and cleanliness. If you can pronounce the names, it’s not too difficult get a bus to any of these destinations from the central bus/train station in Hefei.

to Tianzhushan requires a slow, crowded train or bus ride from Hefei, followed by an hour-long taxi ride from Tianzhu Village to the mountain itself.

The park is absolutely huge, and once again, it’s possible to camp out. There is at least one over-priced hotel within the park, but there are so many beautiful locations that are suitable for camping that there’s no need to waste money on a run-down shack that charges as much as a Hilton!

The park is, like other parks around China, startlingly clean and served by well-tended paths and stairs, even up the most perilous peaks. The views from the top are stunning as you look out over a sea of clouds that swirl beneath.

Park entrance fee: 150 rmb

The only well-known tourist destination in Anhui Province is Huangshan. This mountain is one of the most beautiful places in China, and during peak travel times it can be phenomenally crowded, as people from all around the country descend upon it. It’s not exactly “off the beaten track” in that sense, but you’re unlikely to see many foreigners there.

Huangshan is where much of the movie Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon was filmed—most notably the fight scenes in the bamboo forest. It’s also the archetypal mountain in Chinese art, and even if you haven’t heard its name, you’ve probably seen its soaring peaks in paintings and on TV. W hilst the major it y of people will 1 choose the grossly overpriced hotels as their lodging for the night, it is possible—advisable, even—to camp out under the stars. Chinese national parks are very open about camping and you can pretty much walk through the gates with a tent on your back and leave a week later. Remember to bring water with you though, as prices in the park can be as much as ten times what they are outside!

H u a n g sh a n ( Yellow M o u n t a i n )

Park entrance fee: 230 rmb peak/120 rmb off-season T i a n z h u sh a n Tianzhushan is part of the same ridge of mountains that includes the much more famous Huangshan. It is, however, far quieter and a little harder to reach. That said, it is further from the beaten track, even for Chinese people. Getting

Almost in 3 Hubei Province, Tiantangzhai is a national park straddling a huge mountain range in the southwest of Anhui, with the nearest city being Lu’an, a little over two hou rs away. Tiant angzhai is set so firmly in the middle of nowhere that the air is as crisp and clean as anywhere on earth, a far cr y f rom the China we think we know. Perhaps even more amazing is the variety of wildlife. No trip to Tiantangzhai would be complete without a number of impressive animal sightings. There are hundreds of eagles and hawks that f ill the sky, along with a number of snakes (venomous—be careful) and land mammals. There are even wild leopards here.

Tiantangzhai is known for an abundance of waterfalls, some of which crash mightily from the sides of the giant mountains in the area. It’s also known for its local delicacies, which include a hanging wok filled with wild boar (another example of local wildlife).

Tiantangzhai is popular among adventurous young Chinese, with camping and rafting being popular activities. There is even a long zip-line that bridges two mountains.

T i a n ta n g z h a i

Park entrance fee: 118 rmb (includes free transport within the park)

T h e V i ll age s China’s villages are dying. The cities are expanding so fast you can almost watch them creep out across the countryside, as the government forces people off the land that their families have owned for centuries, and into tower blocks. Some still exist, though, beyond the reach of the cities, and others have been preserved as living museums.

T he most famous little village around is Hongcun, which is on the UNESCO World He r it age l ist. Agai n , it wa s featured in the movie Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon and exists as a fairly typical visual of ancient China.

Amazingly, although the village is preserved and frequently

Hongcun

2 22 | 10 Magazine January 2012

4

visited by Chinese tour groups, it is still a functioning village.

The locals carry on their lives as they have always done, hanging out their fish to dry (and not, as some tourists think, to sell). The village is a maze of tiny, winding cobblestone lanes under arched walkways. It’s an amazing glimpse at China’s past.

Getting here isn’t terribly easy, but it’s only two hours from Huangshan, and local buses make the journey possible, if you know where and when to catch them.

S a n he Even less well-known than Hongcun, and thus quieter, is Sanhe (lit. “three rivers”). This is another ancient village located an hour south of Hefei. Only a few tiny local buses run here, so getting to Sanhe is quite difficult, but it’s a rewarding experience, and arguably a better view of ancient China than Hongcun.

5 1 Above the rocks at Huangshan 2 Tianzhushan has some of the most amazing hikes in China 3 Tiantangzhai has hundreds of huge waterfalls 4 Pagoda at Sanhe 5 One of Sanhe’s three rivers.

R oa d s i d e Campi n g A popular activity among adventurous and wealthy Chinese is camping, but not straying too far from the road. There is relatively little private land in China, and outside of the cities, it’s possible to park your car and set up tent just about anywhere. This is, however, a relatively new pastime, so set a good example by being responsible; otherwise people may not be so accommodating in the future.

A dv ic e • Although most people in Anhui don’t speak Mandarin well, they do understand it. Carry a phrasebook, learn some important vocabulary, and always have your destination written in Chinese.

• Hitch-hiking is fairly safe in China, in that you will likely not be hurt. But make sure your driver knows he isn’t being used as a taxi and shouldn’t expect a large sum of money once you get out of the vehicle.

• Locals will tell you that the water from mountain streams is safe to drink, and it might well be, but stick to bottled or boiled water. Toilets in China are even worse in the mountains than the city, and you don’t want to get stuck on one for your entire trip.

• Haggle, haggle, haggle. Chinese are friendly and honest, but in and around the national parks they will attempt to take visitors for whatever they can. Don’t be afraid to start low and stick to your guns.

10 Magazine January 2012 | 23

For Your Eyes Only Korea’s 10 Hottest Exclusive Places Words by Danielle Sedlak

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hat does exclusive mean to you? Celebrities in sweeping gowns whisked past the crowd into a private movie screening? A smoke-filled club limited to high-rolling CEOs? Or a private cabin hidden away in your own corner of paradise?

In this 10 Magazine exclusive, we take you to 10 places that are not so easy to access, places highly selective about who they let in. In some cases, money is the issue; in others, occupation; in still others, nationality. While you probably won’t be able to actually experience all of these yourself, it doesn’t hurt to dream. And besides - who knows where luck may lead you?

10 Magazine January 2011

The Most Exclusive Spa Swiss Perfection Spa Access

W20,000,000 annual membership fee

Hidden on the first floor of the Millennium Seoul Hilton lies a spa that says it all in the name: the Swiss Perfection Spa. Combining modern ar t and classic Italian furniture, the Swiss Per fection Spa is unlike any other. Before or after treatment at the spa, member s can rela x on Italian furniture created by world-famous designer Antonio Citterio as they admire the works of Andy Warhol, Michael Craig-Martin and James Brown. The Swiss Perfection Spa understand the importance of atmosphere and venue, as they use environmentally friendly finishing materials, ergonomic flooring and the finest sisal carpets.

While the atmosphere sets the mood for members, what really makes this spa unique is the fact that it allows guests to enjoy Europe an spa tre atme nts without eve r leaving the comforts of Seoul. The Swiss Perfection Spa was the first to introduce cellular spa therapy to Korea, and it has provided European treatments all within a private and exclusive venue for both genders.

Members come for the comfort, relaxation, personalized treatments and privacy that can only be found in this exclusive spa. swissperfection.co.kr 02-777-7208

The Most Exclusive Nightclub VIP Section Club Ellui

Words by Nina Hoffman

Access VIP section starts at W500,000 for a table. Basic admission is W30,000.

Ellui in Cheongdam-dong is the place to see and be seen in Seoul. Taking the classic mega club template and turning it on its head, Ellui creates an atmosphere of class and sophistication that must be experienced to be believed.

Clubs on the South side of the Han River tend to attract a more upmarket clientele base and Ellui caters to this by providing a party venue that acknowledges Gangnam as the home of Seoul’s taste -maker s.

There are few places where the fashion designers, models, actors, singers and young professionals who populate Korea would feel more comfortable than the VIP (and VVIP) rooms that Ellui provides.

With a world- class sound system and design that evokes pure opulence, Ellui is prepared to offer its guests the best of everything--as long as they are prepared to settle the bill. The management prides itself on having membership deals that are better than most 4-star hotels and accordingly it attracts A-list celebrities every weekend.

A night at Ellui, whether in the all black-andwhite VIP rooms or on the main dance floor is the place to go for the ultimate exclusive clubbing experience. ellui.com 1577-9669 10 Magazine January 2012 | 25

The Most Exclusive Membership Resort Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul

Membership by letter of reference from current member or sales manger along with a substantial deposit and annual fee (varies by package).

Access

The Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul, located on the slopes of Namsan, is one of the most exquisite and exclusive hotels and clubs in Korea, making membership highly envied and hard to receive.

Extravagant outdoor facilities including tennis courts, a rooftop gym, basketball courts, swimming pools, and kid’s areas fill the perimeter of the Banyan Tree. The Banyan Tree pool also boasts private cabanas that each have their own private pool, giving it the feel of a Vegas resort unmatched anywhere else in Korea. If this is not enough to keep families busy, there are summer and winter camps and babysitting available for kids while members can enjoy the restaurant and spa services. As the resort recently opened in 2009, its three main structures (Hotel, Festa, and Club) and the restaurants, bars, and plentiful facilities in each are state-of-the-art, keeping members willing to pay the steep yearly membership fee.

Members at the Banyan Tree include many locals and around 10% expats. Various packages are available for those who need to pay their own way, while others are lucky enough for their corporation to sponsor a family membership. Even if you aren’t a member, there are still plenty of events that are open to the public to satisfy your curiosity. banyantree.com/en/seoul 02-2250-8060

The Most Exclusive Cigar Club Pierre’s Cigar Club

Meet and gain the approval of Pierre, along with an annual fee of W1,500,000.

Access

As you walk into Pierre’s, located in the Phillip’s Building on Namsan, it feels strangely familiar, almost like visiting an old friend who has saved a seat on the couch for you. This hidden refuge provides a uniquely intimate space. With wine by the bottle and a massive list of various cigars for all tastes, Pierre’s Cigar Bar creates an atmosphere that is comforting while maintaining a high standard. Pierre’s clientele are those who truly care about the other members and, of course, the cigars.

The Cigar Club was first created in 1995, back when there was no cigar business or even cigar sales in Korea. After a couple of years, the club slowly attracted more members. When the cigar market finally opened up, Pierre jumped at the opportunity.

Pierre’s Cigar Club “utilizes membership to entice and create a sense of a group, targeting the cigar lovers of Seoul,” says Pierre. With its walk-in humidor and spacious but cozy surroundings, members find a place of serenity - a place to smoke with friends both old and new. Pierre is not just the owner but a friendly face, offering members exclusivity within the comforts of home. pca@pierreltd.com, 010-8930-0658

The Most Exclusive Resort Hi Class Namhae Pool Villa

Only 11 villas, each ocean view and each with its own pool, ranging from W360,000 - W650,000.

Access

26 1010 Magazine Magazine January January 2011 2012

If you crave privacy--and an intimate evening in your own swimming pool--look no further than the Hi Class Namhae Pool Villa. With only eleven rooms in total, and a strict rule of privacy, there is no place that offers more seclusion than Hi Class Namhae.

Designed by Hi Archiforum, the villas opened recently in April 2010. Resort staff report that the clientele of younger and middle-aged guests are attracted to the private swimming pool located in each villa. In addition, this exclusive resort has an outdoor spa, private parking, and BBQ equipment ready for intimate meals in the room. Although privacy is the main selling point of these villas, their location is just as alluring.

Just five meters off the ocean coastline, visitors can view the rolling waves and deep blue of the sea off the west coast of Namhae Island.

Hi Class is also planning to open a resort on Jeju in March of this year. Sticking with the theme, this one will be private as well--if you don’t keep an eye out for it, you may never even realize it’s there. hiclass-nh.kr 070-7585-3438

The Most Exclusive Membership Club Seoul Club

Membership with approval of two current members along with a substantial deposit and annual fee.

Access

The Seoul Club has been the playground for Seoul’s elite for over a century. Originally the club was exclusively for foreign diplomats and businessmen but now the Seoul Club sets membership at 51% foreign and 49% Korean, leading to a great mix of cultures. Most ambassadors are honorary members, so you’re as likely to run into your ambassador here as anywhere in Korea. There are plenty of great facilities and services on hand, including both an indoor and an outdoor pool, a health club, child care, banquet rooms and terrific restaurants at great prices (as the club is actually a non-profit entity). They have a great bar and if you know a member well enough to request an invitation to their Friday Night Happy Hour, then you’re in for one of the most friendly happy hours in Korea as members enjoy each others’ company, a light buffet and half-priced wine by the glass.

Becoming a member requires getting two existing members to recommend you for membership. They also put a substantial down payment in the way, keeping out most self-financed folks, but many companies happily pay the high eight-figure deposit (in won) to give their top execs and their families a home away from home full of friendly expats and Koreans--as well as keep them rubbing elbows with other Seoul execs. You can bet that more than one business deal has been inked on the 2nd floor bar’s balcony while overlooking the outdoor pool and taking in the view of Namsan Tower behind it. seoulclub.org, membership@seoulclub.org

10 Magazine January 2012 | 27

The Most Exclusive Gaming Gaming Tables VIP VIP Floor Floor at at 77 Luck Luck Casino Casino

Foreign passport holders only.

W250,000 minimum hand for private play.

Access

The Most Exclusive Yacht Club 700 Yacht Club

W4.8 million annually for a private membership, W13 million for a corporate account.

Access

After a long and tiresome day at the office, many turn to a few rounds of golf, a walk around the neighborhood, or just a comfy cushion on the couch.

But for a select few, cool breeze on deck and the ripple of water below provide a relaxing end to the day. While you may be asking, “Can such a place exist--especially in Korea?” you would be shocked to find out that it does, and in the middle of Seoul.

The 700 Yacht Club began in 2006 in the attempt to create a new yachting culture in Seoul. With 9 different boats, members have the privilege of sailing anytime they desire without having the burden of owning and maintaining a boat of their own. Members are also offered sailing lessons and skippers free of charge.

Although sailing is the main attraction, there is a lot more that this club has to offer: a full kitchen, outdoor BBQs, a banquet hall, pool table and foosball tables, and all right on the Han River. The 700 Club provides all of these amenities and a sailing culture in the middle of Seoul, making corporate sponsorships popular to secure such a unique venue for events.

700yachtclub.com 02-376-5616

The Most Exclusive Restaurant Exclusivo Access

Reservations well in advance and a steep card limit.

With only three private dining rooms and a slightly larger lobby, Exclusivo Restaurant exists to entertain private parties. Created in response to continuous requests made by Executive Chef Sebastiano Giangregorio’s regulars, Exclusivo caters mostly to business executives who are looking for a quiet place to hold meetings or host small parties. With a large banquet room with room for ten and two private rooms holding only four to five people, Exclusivo provides a quiet and intimate atmosphere for a business deal, a gathering of friends, or even a private, romantic evening.

Although the restaurant has a set menu, customized options are continuously created to meet the needs and desires of any party. For the Exclusivo customer, no request is impossible.

Many of the ingredients and wines are imported from Italy, along with the décor and dinner settings, creating the illusion that you have stumbled upon modern Italy in the winding streets of Apgujeong. italianexecutivechef@gmail.com 010-5584-6663

28

10 Magazine January 2012

You thought the casinos of Korea were nothing like Vegas or Macau, until you walked onto the VIP floor at 7 Luck Casino.

Although 7 Luck mostly caters to Japanese and Chinese gamblers, there’s a reason why Westerners should take notice as well. The VIP floor offers high ceilings with elaborate c h a n d e l i e r s , c o m f o r t a b l e c h a i r s , p r i va te bathrooms, and of course private tables for those serious about gambling.

O rde r something to e at or drink, and it ’s delivered directly to you, without you having to leave an intense game--or the intense massage chair you find yourself in. Try not to be distracted from the game by the digital artwork around you, which changes as the game goes on. 7 Luck’s VIP room caters to the needs of the individual yet respects the importance of good group play, all while providing the ultimate gambling experience in surroundings that feel like a 5-star hotel.

A lthough the casino hosts around 30 0 to 40 0 customers on an average Friday or Saturday night, the spacious interior never feels packed. As Director of Security Bryan Wolffe explains, “Compared to other casinos, 7 Luck doesn’t get too crowded, eliminating potential distractions. This casino, especially the VIP floor, is for serious, more professional gamblers.”

If you ever have the chance--and the money--make sure you visit the 7 Luck VIP floor.

7luck.com 02-3466-6100

The Most Exclusive Everything U.S. Army Garrison Yongsan Access

Be part of the US armed forces or know someone who is.

For many young soldiers who have access to the Yongsan Garrison, it may not seem so “exclusive,” but for those on the other side of the gate it may as well be Fort Knox. As full-bird Col. Bill Huber explains, “I don’t think of Yongsan as ‘exclusive,’ but it is an enormous privilege to live in the heart of Seoul, in an area that can best be compared to living in Central Park. It is a massive open area, void of the skyscrapers and apartment complexes that blanket most of the city. It has an enormous concentration of trees; people come to enjoy the outdoors and open spaces. Unlike other neighborhoods, there are large athletic fields, playgrounds, tennis courts, and even a driving range.”

One of the most attractive privileges on the US base is basic traditional American food including chicken wings, breakfast buffets, salads and a huge selection of beer, which all can be found at many of the restaurants in Yongsan. As the food is directly transported from the US, even the fast food restaurants feel and taste American. Some of the most popular include R&R’s, the Navy Club, and Oasis Mexican Restaurant. There is even a steakhouse, Sables, that serves have-to-see-for-yourself 5-lb lobster!

For those who aren’t in the US Military but would like to visit, there are festivals that invite in the general public three times a year, opening up a portion of the base to those with proper identification. Other ways to experience a little Americana in the heart of Seoul are to take part in volunteer opportunities and faith-based organizations connected with the base or to tag along with someone with guest escort privileges. yongsan.korea.army.mil

E dited by DAVI D CA R RUTH and j i s u n moo n

As this month’s cover story is exclusive places in Korea, we decided to explore the membership programs being offered at some of the country’s finest hotels.

Dine@Hyatt Grand Hyatt Seoul The Grand Hyatt Seoul and Park Hyatt Seoul are presenting Dine@Hyatt, a brand new, innovative rewards program for the frequent diner. For every purchase you make at the designated restaurants and bars at either hotel, you will receive reward points.

Members will accrue points equivalent to 10% of their total purchase amount. In addition, you will earn 100,000 bonus points upon payment of your initial registration fee of W100,000, as a special incentive for new members. Points are convertible into credit vouchers. grandhyattseoul.co.kr, parkhyattseoul.co.kr 02-799-8899 Renaissance Recreation Center

Renaissance Seoul Hotel The Renaissance Hotel’s Recreation Center reopened in October 2007 after an extensive renovation. The center is furnished with a swimming pool, outdoor golf range, putting green and outdoor jogging track along with cutting-edge exercise equipment. Get away from the bustling city and take care of your mind and body with help from personal trainers and health experts. There are numerous discount plans such as 30% off on hotel accommodation for those who sign up for a membership. Open from 6 am - 10 pm. Closed every first Wednesday. renaissance-seoul.com 02-2222-8349

Classic 7: Your Club, Your Style

JW Marriott Seoul For tasteful ambiance, the best atmosphere in Seoul is seven stories up at the JW Marriott. Classic 7 membership ensures a prominent spot at a coveted venue. Members are also entitled to discounts at all JW Marriot Seoul restaurants (10%) and rooms (20%) along with complimentary entry to Bar Rouge events for each member and an additional guest. The hotel provides a choice of membership vouchers for guests to enjoy as they like. Membership can be acquired with a W2,000,000 deposit and W2,000,000+ annual fee. Classic 7 is open daily from 6 pm - 1 am. jw-marriott.co.kr 02-6282-6767

Club Esprit Fitness Center

Novotel Ambassador Busan The Club Esprit Fitness Center at the Novotel Ambassador Busan offers a unique combination of fitness and spa facilities and modern interior. It has an all-season swimming pool, natural hot spring spa, gymnasium and relaxation lounge with a breathtaking ocean view. The classic library is a space for modern people who are seeking to enjoy leisure and culture at the same time. Members receive access to the multi-sports center Ryan & Lillian and various sports activities such as yoga, aerobics, circuit training, and squash. novotelbusan.com 051-744-1177

Ruby, Sapphire, and Emerald Memberships

Imperial Palace Seoul To satisfy the different needs of its customers, the Imperial Palace Seoul has prepared three varying membership programs, each composed of unique perks and benefits. All three--the Ruby, Sapphire and Emerald memberships--include complimentary vouchers and discounts to the fitness club, spa, restaurants and bars as well as accommodations. Bring your membership with you to Imperial Palace hotels all around the world. Ruby W1,000,000, Sapphire W550,000, Emerald W350,000. imperialpalace.co.kr 02-3440-8059 30 | 10 Magazine January 2012

Park Club Spa and Fitness

Park Hyatt Seoul Renowned for its intimate and sophisticated service, the Park Hyatt Seoul’s Park Club Spa and Fitness Centre is located on the 23rd and 24th floors of the hotel and includes the fitness studio, three luxuriously appointed spa treatment rooms and the indoor heated swimming pool that commands panoramic views of the Gangnam area. Spa lovers should check out their premium antioxidant treatment offered to the end of February, which includes a 100-minute session that instantly nourishes dry skin.

Spa Treatment W220,000+. seoul.park.hyatt.com 02-2016-1176

+ = subject to 10% VAT, ++ = subject to 10% VAT and 10% service charge

Starwood Privilege Membership Program

Sheraton Incheon Hotel First launched in September 2009, the Starwood Privilege Membership Program has brought members benefits on food, beverages, and accommodations. One of the finest perks of this program is that the card is accepted at all Starwood hotels and resorts located in the Asia/Pacific area. The membership fee is W399,000 and includes a 20% - 50% discount on all restaurant and bar purchases, 10% off on accommodations and convenient facilities located in the hotel. sheratonincheon.com 032-835-1000

Oakwood Fitness Club

Oakwood Premier Coex Center Seoul Relax, rejuvenate and stay healthy at the Oakwood Premier Coex Center Seoul by visiting their fitness center. Remedy stress and strains at their indoor swimming pool, enhance flexibility and strength with the help of professional trainers, or simply relax in the sauna. Stateof-the-art exercise machines are also available for workout routines.

Yearly fee of W3,600,000+ includes complimentary accommodations and discounts on restaurants and bar purchases. 6 am - 10 pm. Closed every first Wednesday. oakwoodpremier.co.kr 02-3466-7788

Club at the Hyatt and Aqua View Membership Program

Hyatt Regency Jeju Club at the Hyatt is a membership program which offers special benefits whenever you use the rooms, restaurants and other hotel facilities in many Hyatt hotels. Discover your privileges at the Hyatt Regency Jeju and enjoy an array of special services.

Membership covers 10% of the total bill in all valid restaurants and bars (W300,000+). jeju.regency.hyatt.com 064-735-8544

MY Membership Card

Marriott Executive Apartments Regulars who visit the MEA for the superb dining, refined ambiance and stunning views of Yeouido Park now have a chance to enjoy some of their favorite things at up to 50% off the regular price. The hotel’s first membership, MY Membership, is also expected to settle the debate among all those friends who have been looking for a place to enjoy brunch on a terrace every weekend. For W250,000, card holders receive numerous discounts on meals, drinks, rooms, and spa treatments. The card is accepted at the JW Marriott Seoul in Banpo and Courtyard Marriott in Yeongdeungpo as well. measeoul.com 02-2090-8050 10 Magazine January 2012 | 31

Expat News January 2012

Yeouido Center to Assist Business-Minded Expats

Entrepreneurs from abroad hoping to set up shop in Korea and locals looking to start their own business now have another option for getting some helpful advice on entering the Korean market. The Yeouido Global Business Support Center is set to open in the Yeouido International Finance Center building at the end of December. This is the second such center in Seoul, following the one that opened in COEX in May of 2010. Dedicated staff at the Yeouido office, conversant in English, Chinese, and Japanese, can explain the numerous services available, including business incubation office space, small business consulting, and assistance for living in Seoul. global.seoul.go.kr/yeouido 02-6137-9830

Newly Released App Puts Museum in Your Pocket Do you enjoy visiting museums but just don’t have the time? With the smartphone application “Museum Park Is in My Hand,” released this past December by the National Museum of Korea, you no longer have to actually visit the museum to see its beautiful relics and learn about history. Unlike conventional exhibits, which explain important artifacts through the written word alone, this application uses 3D animations and storytelling methods to provide a wider audience with more entertaining ways to enjoy the museum. Highlights of the app include a guidebook of the museum and 20 national treasures that were presented during the G-20 Seoul summit. The app is available both in Korean and English. museum.go.kr

Korean Language Book Released for Short-Term Learners Mini Tripod Frees Hands for Cell Phone Cameras

Most of the major Korean language textbooks are designed for long-term programs at universities that last up to two years. Such textbooks are less appropriate for students studying Korean in a short-term program, who need a more intensive, fast-paced text. In response to this need comes the Fast & Fun Korean for Short-Term Learners textbook series by Kang Seung-hae, professor of Korean language education at Yonsei University. If most programs are a marathon, Kang says, her books are more like a sprint, using an integrated method to focus on the essential vocabulary and grammar necessary to begin communicating in less than three months.

The three books in the series, which sell for W15,000 each, come with an MP3 CD. darakwon.co.kr/koreanbooks 02-736-2031 32 | 10 Magazine January 2012

Here’s one for the “selca” (“self camera,” or taking pictures of yourself) generation. Camera-equipped cell phones are great, but it can be frustrating to try to hold the phone just right so that you and your friends fit into the picture frame. This is where the mini tripod comes in. Stick your camera into the convenient phone holder and then position the adjustable tripod legs so you’ve got the right angle. You can also remove the phone holder and attach a digital camera on the tripod’s universal screw thread – or use the phone holder on a tripod of your own.

Comes in black, green, orange and red. For more info about this and other products in the Xsories line, including a waterproof MP3-equipped headset and a combination solar cell phone charger and lamp, see xsories.com. $29.00.

Edited by Dav i d Carru t h

Itaewon Massage Therapy Center Marks 4th Year with 20% Off If your New Year’s resolution is to live a more relaxed lifestyle, it may be time to visit the Itaewon massage center Healing Hands. And through the end of the month, you can lower the cost for lowering your stress with a 20% discount on weekday visits. Healing Hands is an ideal destination for achieving peace of body and mind through the gentle touch of a professional masseuse. Restore balance to your weary muscles at Healing Hands, open every day from 11:30 am to 10 pm. healinghands.co.kr 010-3158-5572

Gyeongnidan’s Studio-X Fitness Reopens in Hannam-dong When Cody Hunter started Studio-X Fitness at the foot of Gyeongnidan, he was planning to run it as a personal training studio with a couple of “boot camps” (intensive training sessions) each day. But the plan soon changed as the boot camps dominated the schedule, increasing to eight per day. Cody and the Studio-X Fitness team have responded to this success by cranking things up a notch. With sponsorship from Reebok, they are rebranding as Reebok Crossfit Sentinel and opening their new facility on January 7th in Hannam-dong near the Hannam Ogeori (5-way intersection). The new-and-improved center will provide members with trainers that can maximize their workout, top-of-the-line equipment, scalable fitness programs, and a community of like-minded people. 635-1 B1 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul. cody@bootcampkorea.com 02-790-0801

Twelve Singing Animals Musical Tours Countryside

Latt Children’s Theatre, the only English-language children’s theatre company in Korea, is currently touring six cities outside of Seoul with its musical Twelve Singing Animals. Based on the twelve animals of the Asian zodiac, the production is about a greedy dragon and the animals who teach him to share. Already seen by over 100,000 people, the musical teaches children the Christmas spirit of sharing and gives them a chance to dance and sing along with the actors. Children must be over 36 months old to attend.

Performances held in Daejeon, Incheon, Masan, Daegu, Busan, and Gwangju from January 7th till February 19th. For tickets, visit ticketlink.co.kr (in Korean). W40,000. lattct.co.kr 02-560-0999 10 Magazine January 2012 | 33

What’s New in Itaewon 10 brings you the latest info on new restaurants, bars, salons, and other essential establishments in Seoul’s Itaewon district.

Al Mat to

Italian pizzeria

Toward the end of the main strip in Haebangchon on the left you can find Al Matto, an authentic pizzeria run by a Korean inspired to open his business by his studies in Italy—and the Italian chefs among his friends and family. Each Wednesday is Margherita Pizza Day, with the Margherita Pizza on sale all day long for W8,900.

Recommended: Neapolitan F1, Yongsan-dong 2-ga 38-11.

02-794-4616

Brea Burger

shots by K at h y Li m

The Foot Shop

California-style hamburgers

Traditional Chinese massage

Once a board member at a powerful investment firm, the owner of this restaurant quit his job to pursue his dream of making simple yet delicious burgers.

He says his burgers are better than anything else in Itaewon. A bold claim: you’ll have to stop by yourself to see if he’s right. Located in the alleys behind Itaewon Market.

Recommended: cheese burger 63-5 Itaewon-dong. 02-792-8864

Massage chain The Foot Shop has opened up a branch between Itaewon and Hangangjin stations. While foot care is provided as the name suggests, they also offer back massage, whole body massage, and other specialty treatments including couple massage and sports massage.

Prices start at W30,000 with big discounts for members.

Recommended: foot spa Anseong Tower 3F, 737-28 Hannam-dong.

02-749-9991

Linda Hair & Nail Art

Beauty salon

Have you subjected your hair to too many perms? For hair care that will restore the shine, Linda Hair & Nail Art, located just below The Foot Shop (see above), is here to help. The English-speaking owner and staff provide total hair, nail, and skin care.

Recommended: scalp and hair clinic Anseong Tower 2F, 737-28 Hannam-dong. 02-796-2388

O Chicken

Fried chicken hof Iron Chef Thai & Italian They’ve got Thai, and they’ve got Italian.

And why not? The Iron Chef mantra is “grub on fire,” which fits with the long bar from which customers can get a look at the dishes being prepared in the open kitchen.

If you need a drink, they’ve got them upstairs at Radio Garden, run by the same people.

Recommended: IMF burger, phat thai 1F 118-72 Itaewon-dong. 02-790-2829 34 | 10 Magazine January 2012

Many items on the menu (chicken, tteobokki, golbaengi) may remind you of a typical hof, but O Chicken’s atmosphere is chilled and subdued in black and white. Another innovation is menu options such as pasta and fried rice, added to draw the lunchtime crowd. Located behind Nari’s House BBQ near Hangangjin Station.

Recommended: fried chicken 741-19 Hannam-dong. 02-790-5506

Pizzeria D’Buzz a

Italian pizzeria

Just next to O Chicken is a new pizzeria hoping to capture the patronage of gastronomes near Hangangjin Station. The name sounds vaguely Italian, but it’s actually a transliteration of the Korean for “Rich Pizza.” The restaurant has plain décor but serious pizzas, as well as other Italian dishes such as lasagna and steamed mussels.

Recommended: Da Torino 743-33 Hannam-dong. buzzapizza.com 02-794-9474

gastronomic n ews January 2012

Edited by K you ng - h ee Li m and Dav i d Carru t h

Humble Omija Berry Used in Top-Shelf Alcohol The omija, a red Korean berry also known as “five flavor berr y” for its combination of salt y, sweet, sour, pungent, and bit ter, has generally been used in making Oriental medicine and herbal teas. But now it has been transformed into a sparkling alcoholic beverage thanks to the work of JL Craft Wine CEO Lee Jong-gi. After years of experimentation and fermentation, Mr. Lee unveiled the new beverage, called OMyRose (in a reference to omija), at an Apgujeong wine bar. Selling for W100,000 a bottle, it competes in price and quality with fine imported whiskeys. OMyRose represents Mr. Lee’s passion and determination to create an outstanding alcoholic beverage to represent Korea.

Four CJ Dining Brands Converge on Garosugil Following in the footsteps of CJ Food World near Dongdaemun and CGV Cheongdam Cine City, CJ Foodville has just launched its new creation CJ Garosu Town. Located in Garosugil, the popular shopping and dining street located in Sinsa-dong, the complex brings together four different brands.

There’s noodle restaurant Jeil Jemye o n s o (제일제면소 ), c o f f e e s h o p A Twosome Place, bibimbap restaurant Bibigo (비비고), and curry restaurant Loco Curry (로코커리). With two other CJ brands, Tous les Jours and Olive Young, already in the vicinity, CJ hopes to establish this Garosugil multiplex as an attractive destination for tourists and young Koreans. cjfoodville.co.kr

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Limited Edition Macallan and Lalique Whiskey Fetches High Price

W23 million seems like a high price to pay for a bottle of whiskey,

but that’s the price tag on the latest collaboration between world KAG 53@ 73F ?73F renowned French crystal house Lalique and The Macallan single malt scotch whiskey. The Macallan has released the Curiously 8G>> E3>36 43D Small Stills edition, which is limited to 400 individually numbered bottles worldwide, of which only 10 bottles are available in Korea.

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best design team, was inspired by the company’s smallest still, which symbolizes The Macallan’s tradition and craftsmanship. Those who have the privilege of picking up one of these bottles can enjoy its rich flavor, 5SXW 4W` consisting of the sweetness of dark chocolate and tangerines added to a harmonious blend of baked apples, lemon, and cinnamon.

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10 Magazine January 2012 | 35

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36 | 10 Magazine January 2012

PA L A C E SEOUL

Notre Dame de Paris English Version

• This English version of the blockbuster musical Notre-Dame de Paris brings Esmerelda, Frollo, and Quasimodo the hunchback to the stage at the Sejong Center in downtown Seoul.

See page 49 for more info.

January 19th – February 26th

NATIONWIDE 38 • SEOUL 42 • GaNGwon PROVINCE 59 • GYEONGGI PROVINCE 60 • CHUNGCHEONG PROVINCE 62 JEOLLA PROVINCE 63 • GYEONGSANG PROVINCE 64 • JEJU ISLAND 66 • NETWORKING CALENDAR 67

My Sassy Girl 엽기적인 그녀

50/50 Directed by Jonathan Levine

Movies

by Pa u l M at t he w s

Based on the true story of writer Will Reiser’s battle with cancer, 50/50 leads us through the trials and tribulations of Adam (Joseph Gordon Levitt) as he discovers he has a rare form of cancer. Supported by his best friend Kyle (Seth Rogen), his girlfriend Rachael (Bryce Dallas Howard), his mother (Anjelica Huston) and his therapist (Anna Kendrick), we follow Adam from diagnosis to chemotherapy to surgery.

This film has been described as a comedy-drama, and while it does have the occasional jolly moment, you should be prepared for a rather low-key, painful and ultimately beautiful experience. The story is intensely personal and incredibly touching, Joseph Gordon Levitt’s performance as Adam is Oscar-worthy and all of the supporting cast are outstanding.

Director Jonathan Levine and writer Will Reiser have managed to create a subtle, understated drama that shows the pain and suffering that cancer brings alongside the power of love and friendship in difficult times. It’s not an easy film to watch, but with a little perseverance and heartache, you’ll be rewarded with an incredibly satisfying exploration of how we as individuals react to both illness and death. One of my favorite films this year.

Moneyball Directed by Bennet Miller

38 | 10 Magazine January 2012

Let’s make this clear from the start—I’m not a baseball fan. I’m British, I don’t watch sports much, but I did love Bull Durham, Mr. Baseball and Major League.

Set 10 years ago, Moneyball stars Brad Pitt as Billy Beane, general manager of the Oakland Athletics team. Frustrated by their loss to the New York Yankees, he decides to shake things up and with the help of a young economics graduate (Jonah Hill), Beane creates a new team in a rather unconventional statistical fashion.

With an Oscar-nominated director, a script written by Steve Zaillian and Aaron

Classics of Korean Cinema

Directed by Kwak Jae-yong After over a decade in Korea, I can safely say that this 2001 film starring Jun Jihyun (as “the girl”) and Cha Tae-hyun (as Gyeon-woo) is my favorite Korean romantic comedy.

My Sassy Girl is a one-of-a-kind tale of bizarre romance, bringing together love and suffering in one very funny parcel. Gyeonwoo meets “the girl” one night at a subway station and saves her life, only to have to cope with her drunken vomiting. This awkward incident starts them off down a twisted path of friendship that results in jail time, too much soju, bungee jumping, hostage situations and much more.

This isn’t a conventional Korean romantic comedy and that’s part of the joy of it all. You’re swept along in a mix of pain, humiliation and adoration, feeling for Gyeon-woo and the girl and the problems they are dealing with. With its combination of slapstick comedy, raw emotion, fantasy sequences and silliness, My Sassy Girl entertains, amuses and gives us a great romance for the twenty-first century without slipping into mawkishness or melodrama.

Jun Ji-hyun is superb as the mercurial, melancholic girl, whilst Cha Tae-hyun wins over the hardest of hearts with his puppy-like stare and his dogged devotion to his friend/tormentor/love. The dark depths of winter are the perfect time to pick up a copy of My Sassy Girl. Let it warm your heart and tickle your funny bone.

Sorkin and a cast including Philip Seymour Hoffman, I went in with high expectations, and I was a little disappointed. It’s an interesting story and there are good performances from both Pitt and Hill, but the film drags in places. At 133 minutes, I found myself losing focus and becoming bored with the endless office-bound conversations about batting averages. Maybe an Oakland fan would love this heroic cinematic treatment of their 2002 season, but for someone with little knowledge of baseball, this film may become a chore. Give me Bull Durham over Moneyball any day.

NATIONWIDE CALENDAR New This Month

Dates are subject to change.

January 19th

Chico & Rita Spain/UK. Animation/Romance. Eman Xor Ona, Limara Meneses; dir. Javier Mariscal.

January 19th

Dogtooth Greece.

Comedy/Drama. Christos Stergioglou, Michele Valley; dir. Giorgos Lanthimos.

January 26th

January 5th

January 5th

Journey 2: The Mysterious Island USA. Action/Adventure.

Dwayne Johnson, Michael Caine; dir. Brad Peyton.

Never Ending Story 네버 엔딩 스토리 Korea. Drama. Ryo-won, Um Tae-woong; dir. Jeong Yong-ju.

힐링핸즈

Eleonore’s Secret France/Italy. Animation.

Dir. Dominique Monfery.

By The Will Of Genghis Khan Soviet Union/Mongolia/USA. Eduard Ondar, Orgil Makhaan; dir. Andrey Borisov.

January 5th

Massage for the soul The Beaver USA. Comedy/Drama.

Mel Gibson, Jodie Foster; dir. Jodie Foster.

TBA

Papa 파파 Korea. Comedy. Go Ah-ra, Park Yong-woo; dir. Han Ji-seung.

TBA

The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo USA/Sweden/UK/DE. Drama/ Thriller. Daniel Craig, Rooney Mara; dir. David Fincher.

January 12th

Barney’s Version Canada/Italy. Romance/Drama. Paul Giamatti, Rosamund Pike; dir. Richard J. Lewis.

Dancing Queen 댄싱퀸 Korea.

Comedy. Hwang Jeong-min, Eom Jeong-hwa; dir. Lee Seok-hoon.

TBA

January 12th

We Bought a Zoo USA. Family/Comedy. Matt Damon, Scarlett Johansson; dir. Cameron Crowe.

January 19th

Wonderful Radio 원더풀 라디오 Korea. Drama. Lee Min-jeong, Lee Jeong-jin; dir. Kwon Chil-in.

TBA

Puss In Boots USA. Animation/ Adventure/Comedy. Antonio Banderas, Salma Hayek; dir. Chris Miller.

TBA

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Television

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by S oy eo n K imberly Yoo n

Match-Making Reality Show Pokes Fun at Korean Dating Rituals The reality show Couples (짝) offers a blunt and unvarnished depiction of the Korean marriage market.

In Korea, men and women generally get married in their late 20s and early 30s, while it is also common for some women to get married in their early 20s to men who are quite a bit older than them. In order to explore how today’s men and women aim to achieve a happy marriage, both in terms of love and finance, SBS organized a one-time special broadcast called Couples early in 2011, which they have now developed into a regular reality show.

Couples highlights mating rituals, dating, and other relationship issues for young people in Korea. These topics are portrayed through 12 people (usually divided into 7 men and 5 women) who spend seven days together at an isolated village. All

participants are referred to as “Man Number 1,” “Woman Number 1” and so forth instead of their real names, and their personal information (such as age, education, career, and family relationships) is initially concealed and then gradually revealed during their stay in the village. The show accurately, but also exaggeratedly, captures the attitudes of the participants by

comparing their behavior before and after this personal information is revealed.

The show’s blunt and sometimes sarcastic style of depicting love and marriage in Korea has been attracting attention. Although each episode has different participants, viewers can count on women to pursue older men with privileged backgrounds, while men tend to chase after the more attractive women.

The show has received criticism for how it is deliberately edited to exaggerate certain dramatic moments at the village, which could misrepresent the actual personalities of the participants.

But without such creativity and in-depth analysis, this reality show would not have had the appeal to draw audiences to the discussion of love and marriage it presents. Couples is on SBS at 11:15 PM on Wednesday.

10 Magazine January 2012 | 39

NATIONWIDE

Paranormal Activity 2: Tokyo Night Japan. Horror.

Aoi Nakamura, Noriko Aoyama; dir. Toshikazu Nagae.

January 1st

언제나 좋았어) is actually a surprisingly complex musical outing, with interesting arrangements and slightly weird signatures.

It’s not hard-edged, yet it is certainly the most compelling, listenable cut. Oh yeah!

Apollo 18

Crying Nut

Crying Nut & Galaxy Express Gaegujaengi! (개구쟁이, rascal)

Drug Records This release features t wo of Kor e a’s t o p flight rock ensembles together on a single (6-song) EP. Three tunes each; two diverse (although obviously rocking) styles. Crying Nut offers up two versions of the song “Isaganeun Nal” (이사가는 날), which sounds eerily like a reworking of some Bread tune from the 70s, and a rollicking punkpower-pop workout (“The Brave Man”) that presses all the right buttons.

Galaxy Express, however, utilizes a more straightforward rock & roll formula to create their sounds. “Oh Yeah” (the opener) is just that: pure exuberant R&R delivered at full speed in their inimitable Korean style. The next two tunes don’t kick it quite as hard: “Tteonaneun Nal” (떠나는 날) is basic but workable pop rock, but “Jinagonamyeon Eonjena Joasseo” (지나고나면

Self-titled EP

Warner Music Korea Korean band Apollo 18’s new self-titled EP follows hot on the heels of a number of previously well-received musical outings and offers a tantalizing hint as to why they’re in the ascendant. The primary base is definitely hard rock/metal derived, but they stretch out on every tune, utilizing growling death metal vocal interspersions, jangly guitars, and frenetic pace to deliver the goods. On “Sonic Boom,” Apollo 18 channel a Blackmore/Malmsteen guitar extravaganza right into the heart of Seoul, while on “Corpse Flower” (my fave), this pyrotechnic aplomb follows a scorching intro to drive all mediocrity before it in a fast and furious blast.

The acoustically inclined “Deadend” and the almost grunge-ish ballad “Mur” further elaborate musical dexterity: the former by edgily meandering into the prog rock field; the latter, through use of a minimalist and plaintive vocal accompaniment. Yes indeed!

by M i c h a e l B e rry

Books

Renaissance Fare How the world became modern—the subtitle of Stephen Greenblatt’s The Swerve (2011, 256 pages)—brings us to the question of when. I’d always dated it with Erasmus, but Greenblatt moves it back to 1412, with the rediscovery of Lucretius’ heretofore lost poem On the Nature of Things. The Swerve answers the question of how the world became modern by reconstructing a likely scenario wherein Poggio Bracciolini, a Papal scrivener, discovers Lucretius’s longlost manuscript, which subsequently sets the world on fire.

Much of the book consists of Greenblatt’s depiction of how the revolution of Christianity—which gave souls to all those slaves and non-citizens of the Roman empire, essentially making them people—had come full circle by the middle of the last millennium, suppressing those whom it had once liberated. In Rome during that dark age, refugees of Byzantium idealized Cicero and looked longingly back on the Roman era.

More with the tone of a Hollywood gossip 40 | 10 Magazine January 2012

Wonder Girls Wonder World

JYP Entertainment “This song is for the girls all around the world,” begins “Girls Girls,” a fitting dedication not just for the song, but for all of Wonder World. Where Girls’ Generation portrays feminine aegyo and 2NE1 act like butt-kicking rabble-rousers, Wonder Girls just want to be one thing: your best friends. The album explores the joy of girl gangs with retro-pop homages like “Be My Baby” (a tribute to the Ronettes in name only) and “Sweet Dreams” and hard rock-influenced tracks like “Me, in.”

When these paeans to boys are more than mere rants, they exude a confidence as cool as the vocals. More than just a collection of girl power anthems, the fizzy hooks, clever nods to 90s R&B predecessors, and variety of styles makes it easy to gloss over the only weak track, an ode to maxing out credit cards for Manolos that sounds more like an amateur viral video throwaway. Wonder World appeals to the inner girl without posturing, making for a successful celebration of wonder girls

by A n n a O r z e l everywhere.

by J ohn M ensing

columnist than a scholar, Greenblatt makes an exceedingly dramatic evaluation of how the resurrected copy of Lucretius’s On the Nature of Things subsequently gained the attention of intellectual elites until it became no less than a principal influence on Thomas Jefferson’s Declaration of Independence.

What struck me as most shocking during this history of those times was the censure reserved for the study of rhetoric.

In the pagan/Roman era, rhetoric was a valued discipline, while in the Catholic age rhetoric was despised as injurious to the immortal soul of the faithful. In the wake of Greenblatt’s triumphalist account of humanism’s ascent, I found Farns-

worth’s Classical English Rhetoric (2011, 252 pages) to be a useful revivification of humanist ideals. Using only examples from English, not translation (his argument that some of the weight of a translated trope gets lost is persuasive), Farnsworth gives us what is in essence “another” dictionary of quotations, but one which can guide us in constructing our own witty, quotationworthy phraseology. Farnsworth’s gloss on these quotations, his organization of them into the categories of rhetorical argument, is superlative. He coaxes out of the reader an attention to the organizational formulations of language, a concern for the effect which empowers us to see patternings inside these moving bits of speech.

In Korea, where rhetoric is often unjustly equated with simple vehemence, the field of rhetoric anxiously awaits cultivation. In the larger world, as Farnsworth laments, the study of rhetoric has languished as of late and one can’t help but wonder, after pondering Greenblatt’s thesis, if a continued decline in the rhetorical arts might not herald the ascendancy of another dark age.

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Tech

by S tafford L u msden

Tech Predictions for

nationwide Hotlines Emergency 119 Police 112 Directory Assistance 114 Medical Information Center 1339 This is a 24-hour, nationwide hospital information service available in English, Korean, Chinese and Japanese.

Citibank citibank.co.kr Deutsche Bank Bank of America Bank of China BNP Paribas

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02-3455-2114 02-724-4500 02-2202-4500 02-399-0368 02-317-1700 02-311-0060

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Investment Assistance

2012 is upon us and January will see both the Consumer Electronics Show (CES) and MacWorld Expo set the agenda for the tech and gear year ahead. Here are a handful of predictions (or at least wishes) for 2012.

1 Facebook will reach critical mass in Korea.

It happened with Twitter in 2011 with everyone from Kim Yu-na to Cheongwadae (청와대, the Blue House) jumping on the instant messaging service and in 2012 it will be Facebook’s turn. Aided and abetted by iPhone and Android handsets, Facebook appeals to Koreans like no other social network. Watch for an explosion of Koreans and Korean content on Facebook—especially the Group function.

KOTRA kotra.or.kr Invest Korea investkorea.org

02-3460-7114 02-3460-7545

Korean Banks Shinhan Bank Seoul Global Center 1st Floor, Seoul Finance Center 84 Taepyungro 1-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul

02-773-3131 Korea Exchange Bank (KEB 외환은행) keb.co.kr 02-729-0114 SC First Bank (SC 제일은행) scfirstbank.com 02-3702-3114

Major Foreign Banks American Express americanexpress.co.kr 02-2000-8100 Australia & New Zealand Banking Group 02-3700-3100 China Construction Bank ccbseoul.com 02-6730-1718

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2 The Galaxy line of phones will continue to dominate.

Galaxy 3, Galaxy 4? Whatever it is eventually called, expect Samsung to extend and tighten its grip on the domestic phone market in 2012—especially with the advent of LTE or so-called Long Term Evolution networks, which promise unparalleled data speeds and voice quality.

PUB & RESTAURANT

3 Apple and Samsung will make nice.

With lawsuits from both parties in 2011, Apple and Samsung will come to a settlement out of court by the middle of 2012 that allows for the continuing symbiotic relationship between the two companies when it comes to the sale and purchase of RAM and microprocessors. The decline of the Galaxy Tab will simply come from lack of consumer interest more than anything else.

Come to Itaewon’s neighborhood pub!

4 There will be a new Xbox in the first half of the year.

Possibly revealed as early as CES (Consumer Electronics Show) in January. Rumors include double the graphics capability, cloud storage of games and game saves and a sleek, slim design at a price less than the current iteration.

5 iPhone 5 and iPad 3 will launch.

Need we say more? Watch also for a continued increase in acceptance of Apple and Mac computers in general in Korea.

6 A major bank will fall victim to a large-scale Internet security flaw.

This will prompt a major and much needed rethink of Korea’s dependence on outmoded forms of security like ActiveX browser controls. Expats will rejoice as it suddenly becomes easier to do Internet shopping and banking.

7 Ahn Cheol-soo, founder of Ahn labs, will run for president at the end of 2012.

Ahn may or may not win out against entrenched political interests, but his campaign will usher in a new age of democracy in Korea through the use of technology. In a manner reminiscent of Roh Moo-hyun’s election in 2003, Ahn will mobilize support using social networks like Facebook and Twitter beyond anything ever seen before in Korea or elsewhere.

Correction In October’s tech & gear column about the Tokyo Game Show, Konami’s Winning Eleven 2012 was erroneously referred to as “FIFA 2012.” We regret any confusion caused.

* Pool * Darts * NFL Football on Demand * Beers on Tap!

Daily Drink Specials Weekday Happy Hour & Food Specials Back room patio/terrace available for private parties & events.

Heineken Hoegaarden Ally Kat Guinness Domestic beers

이태원 대한민국 Itaewon Station exit 1, pass KFC on the right. Turn right at the 4th alley. 2nd floor of the third building on the left.

Phone: 02-792-2550 10 Magazine January 2012 | 41

Food Review

Twitter Fights Lead to Great Tacos Words by Joe M cPherson , shots by Troy Z it z elsberg er

T

witter feuds can have good results.

A Gangnam-based hipster Korean taco shop got upset when a person posted that she didn’t like their tacos because they put sweet pickle relish in them. They maturely responded that her face was “disgusting.” Unfortunately for them, this person was popular on Twitter, especially with those who knew how false that face comment was, and this taco grill got their tortillas handed to them.

During this fight, the name “Vatos” popped up frequently. They weren’t personally involved in this kerfuff le, but people stated how great their tacos were.

So, of course, we had to check them out.

We were absent from the hype about them before their opening, but we’re glad we stumbled upon this Twitter brawl and found out about them.

Located down the street from The Wolfhound in Itaewon, Vatos Urban Tacos serves real California street-style tacos— the small kind in unfried corn tortillas—in pairs or trios. Each of their signature tacos comes uniquely dressed, stuffed with smoky grilled meats. Two are traditional, beef Carne Asada and pork Braised Carnitas. Two are Ko-Mexican, Galbi Short Rib and Pork Belly. As of this writing they were introducing a fish taco that we didn’t get a chance to try. The flavors of

English menu, English spoken

02-797-TACO (8226)

Allowed

2F 66-8 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul. From Itaewon Station (line 6, ex. 4), head down the street behind the Outback Steakhouse.

Yes, and they’re accommodating Not easily accessible Reservations Accepted OMG! Great food and drinks Can get crowded in the early evening

On Friday and Saturday, the kitchen is open from 11:30 am – 11 pm. The bar stays open an hour or so later. vatoskorea.com

these tacos and the dishes at Vatos have moved the Mexican scene forward. They taste mature. They’re not the 80s Tex-Mex fare that we have gotten used to in Korea.

You take a bite out of a taco, quesadilla, or their Kimchi Carnitas Fries, and you taste something familiar followed by something deeper, more interesting, and exciting.

Oh, the Kimchi Carnitas Fries made you do a double take? According to the owners, they’re the most popular item on the menu.

Perfectly crispy fries loaded down with braised pork and housemade kimchi—easily in the top ten best Seoul dishes of 2011.

Vatos has limited kitchen space. They don’t even have a walk-in cooler, so they have to turn over their ingredients quickly.

What that means for the diner is that everything is made fresh that day. When they have guacamole on the menu, it’s prepared per order. Owner Kevin jokes that each guacamole order makes him nervous because he has to cut into a new avocado.

If it’s not ripe enough, it’s tossed.

Jonathan is the mixologist who perfected his art in Texas and brings some loaded drinks to the table, including a spicy Mexican Martini served in a shaker, the surprisingly yummy Makgeolita (a makgeolli margarita), and his signature Bloody Mary/ Maria.

The menu is not too large, so every dish is thought out. It also changes based on what’s in season. One more bonus: there’s a secret menu. We won’t tell you. You’ll have to find that out for yourself.

W2,500-W9,900 42 | 10 Magazine January 2012

10 Magazine reimburses reviewers for their meals and never notifies restaurants that they will be reviewed.

FOODIE FINDS

Makgeolli: More Taste, Less Billing Haebangchon’s Damotori H (다모토리 ㅎ) is a chance to refine your palate with a selection of makgeolli (rice wine) from all over the country. For a mere W2,000 you can order the sample platter and choose up to five different brands. Enjoy a range of flavors from the sweetness of black bean makgeolli from Sobaek Mountain to the more crisp notes of Boksundoga. While a bottle will only cost you about W5,000, the food is a little more expensive and the quality is par for the course. The galbi salad and the bacon egg wrap are particularly delicious companions to a bottle of fresh meokgoli. Near Noksapyeong Stn. (line 6, ex. 2). 44-18 Yongsan 2-dong, Yongsan-gu. 070-8950-8362

Words and sho t by C u rt i s F i l e

In an area mostly dominated by overpriced, sub-par food, 5ton Station is one of Gangnam’s hidden gems. The restaurant offers an array of pastas, pizzas and salads in a somewhat kitschy, albeit charming, atmosphere. From the minute you walk in the door a chain reaction of whoops and hollers begins with your server greeting you and ends with the kitchen staff shouting out their approval of your arrival. Their Gorgonzola pizza is a particularly delicious delight. An ample smattering of strong Gorgonzola accompanied by a rich cream sauce gives the thin-crust treat a smooth, sweet aftertaste. At W15,000 for a pie that can easily feed three, it’s definitely worth its weight in cheese.

In the café alley behind the CGV near Gangnam Stn. (line 2, ex.

11). 617-3 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu. 02-538-2212

Words and sho t by C u rt i s F i l e

Attend the Tale of Jesters Pies Could meat pies become the new trend in Seoul? It wasn’t that long ago that the first Korean outpost of Australia’s Jesters landed. When we finally got around to talking about it, twelve stores had already popped up from north Seoul to Daegu. They specialize in meat pies with playful names like Dr. Pepper (pepper steak), Popeye (spinach and feta), and Russian Roulette (beef stroganoff).

A couple of sweet pies also make appearances, like the William Tell (apple and custard). The crusts are light and flaky, and the filling is satisfying. They also have a passionate following from Commonwealth expats, who each have their own favorite. jesterskorea.com Words and sho t by Joe mc ph e rson

Proudly supplied by Kobeak Foods©

10 Magazine January 2012 | 43

SEOUL

Gorgonzola in Gangnam

SEOUL CALENDAR

“Quiet Air, Quiet Light” Photography Exhibition Through January 31st

Art

Christopher Domitter’s excellent photo exhibition, “Quiet Air, Quiet Light,” is a meditative but eye-popping collection of 19 naturescapes. The photos are highly-saturated and superglossy. Each one is a scene of Japanese natural beauty focusing particularly on seascapes and mountain landscapes, although there are other subjects in the exhibition.

The look of the photographs is consistent, with deep colors, super-realism, and vivid, though sometimes constrained, palettes. While the photos are super-realistic, they also hint at a kind of mysticism, particularly when Domitter does limit his palette. In those photos, the artist achieves a tonal effect that most of us associate with Photoshop, but he is adamant that he uses no such tools, instead shooting in medium format and not digitally altering his work. When Domitter utilizes a wide palette, the photos pop and his skill in composing foregrounds against backgrounds stands out.

There are no people in these works, though Domitter believes that their presence can be felt in his work: “I don’t often explicitly place people in the frame, but I always try to compose so that one subtly feels a human presence.” The human presence is clearer in some pictures than others, including the eerie “Rice Paddy in Shimane” and “Toshin Mountain Guardian.”

Domitter says that he is attempting to “juxtapose seascape and landscape shots that shared similar lighting conditions or composition elements.” I have to admit that in 50% of the pairings I just didn’t see this. Still, if I hadn’t read the gallery notes, that would not have concerned me in the slightest; perhaps this is merely a confusion of curation?

The exhibition is at the AreuPace.N Gallery, which is adjacent to a lovely café of the same name. The exhibit is directly across the street from the Seoul Animation Museum near Myeongdong Stn. (line 4, ex. 1). Open from 9:30 am to 11 pm. domitter.net 02-318-1336

44 | 10 Magazine January 2012

Words by C h arle s Mon tg om ery

SEOUL CALENDAR Art Through January 1st Neue Empiriker (New Empiricists) Exhibit Zaha Museum in Jongno.

Closed Mon. Tues - Sun 10 am - 6 pm. zahamuseum.com 02-395-3222

Through January 8th The Far Side of the Moon Exhibit Gallery Skape in Hannam-dong.

Weekdays 10 am – 7 pm. Weekends 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Monday. skape.co.kr 02-747-4675 Through January 10th Thomas Demand Exhibit German artist Thomas Demand spends is time trying to divide truth from fiction. All the objects in his photos are actually models made of paper. PKM Trinity Gallery in Apgujeong. 10:30 am - 6 pm. Closed Sun. pkmgallery.com 02-515-9496 Through January 12th ARTanatocus Artanatocus is a portmanteau word combining “art” and “anatomy.” The pieces in this exhibit blend medical illustrations, anatomical references in masterpieces, and the landscape inside the human body. Gallery AG near Guro Digital Complex Stn. (line 2. ex. 6). Closed Sun. Mon - Sat 10 am - 6 pm. galleryag.co.kr 02-3289-4399 Through January 14th Seo Hee-hwa Solo Exhibition: Art Garden “The Fun” If you plan to visit Gwanghwamun, you might as well stop by the Sejong Art Center and get a glimpse of this outdoor exhibition.

Sejong Center Sculpture Garden. Free. sejongpac.or.kr 02-399-1151 Through January 15th Lee Byung-ho: Shade Tree Under the theme of “change and recovery,” Lee uses air and silicone to make sculptures that offer a skeptical message about change.

Gallery Hyundai 16 Bungee near Anguk Stn. (line 3, exit 1). 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. 16bungee.com 02-2287-3516 Joseon Painters as Envoys to China National Museum of Korea near Ichon Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Tue, Wed & Fri 9 am – 6 pm. Wed & Sat 9 am – 8 pm, Sun 9 am – 7 pm. museum.go.kr 02-2077-9000 Through January 18th Tradition Transformed: Contemporary Korean Ceramics Over the past five years, this touring exhibition has shared developments in Korean ceramics with the people of Europe. The Korea Foundation Cultural Center Gallery. Closed Sun & holidays, Mon - Sat 10 am - 6 pm, Wed 10 am - 9 pm. Free. kf.or.kr 02-2046-8500 Through January 20th Joris Laarman Solo Exhibition Internationally acclaimed designer Joris Laarman is holding his first solo exhibition composed of work since 2006. His exquisitely designed furniture embrace both innovation and tradition. Kukje Gallery. Anguk Stn. (line 3, exit 1). 10 am - 6 pm. kukjegallery.com 02-735-8449

Court Painters of the Joseon Dynasty The English guide on Saturday at 2 pm will help you appreciate the art work even more. Leeum Samsung Museum of Art near Hangangjin Stn. (line 6, ex. 1). Closed Mon. Weekdays 10:30 am - 6 pm. Adults W7,000, teens W4,000. leeum.org 02-2014-6901 Through January 31th Ha Jeong-Woong Collection The items here are related to Emperor Sunjong’s inspection of the northwestern provinces. National Palace Museum of Korea near Gyeongbokgung Stn. (line 5, ex. 5). Closed Mon. Weekdays 9 am - 6 pm. Weekends & Holidays 9 am - 7 pm.

Free. gogung.go.kr 02-3701-7500

SEOUL

Through January 3rd Dots & Nets Forever: Yayoi Kusama Exhibit Japanese artist Kusama has played a huge role in the art world from the 1950s to the present day. From a young age, she became obsessed with dots and has used them as the basis for all of her work. She believes the circle to possess great power and life force, the sun and the moon and infinite time. This exhibition combines several of her pieces to create a mesmerizing exhibition full of life and color. Lotte Gallery at the Lotte Department Store in Yeondeungpo. 10:30 - 8 pm. lotteshopping.com 02-2670-8888

Through January 29th Paper Flower Bringing back the meaning of dead and forgotten objects.

Kokdu Museum near Hyewha Stn. (line 4, ex. 1). Closed Mon. Weekdays 10 am - 6 pm. Adults W5,000, Children W3,000. kokdumuseum.com 02-766-3315

Through February 5th Botanical Art in Cheonggyecheon Exhibiting miniatures of flowers to be found in the Cheonggyecheon Stream.

Seoul History Museum near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 1). Closed Mon. Weekdays 9 am – 9 pm. Weekends 9 am – 6 pm. Adults W700, children free. museum.seoul.kr 02-724-0274 Through February 10th A Tree Growing with the Forest Harmonizing the beauty of the East and the West, Jeon Byeong-hyeon comforts his viewers and brings back memories.

Seonhwa Gallery near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 6). seonhwafoundation.org 02-2002-7777 Through February 11th Project Countdown Multiple art projects can be seen and experienced at the recently renovated former location of Seoul Station. Culture Station Seoul 284.

Free. countdown2011.org 02-3407-3500 Through February 15th Contemporary Art: Aha! Moment Park Dae-jo is one of several artists exhibiting at the Seoul Art Center for the illusionist exhibition entitled “Aha! Moment.” Fifty paintings, photos, and sculptures are on display. Seoul Art Center, Hangaram Art Museum. 11 am - 7 pm. Adults W8,000, students W5,000. sac.or.kr 02-599-5743 Through February 19th Tell Me, Tell Me Exhibit In addition to being the repetitive song by the Wonder Girls, “Tell Me, Tell Me” is also the name of an exhibition taking place at the National Museum of Contemporary Art. The exhibition pays homage to the past relationship between Korea and Australia and aims to create new connections.

National Museum of Contemporary Art, Deoksugung Palace branch near City Hall Stn. (line 1, ex. 2). 10 am – 5 pm. Sat 10 am – 8 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W5,000, minors free. moca.go.kr 02-2022-0600 Where Is My Friend’s House? Various art pieces are arranged in a maze-like space to illustrate the bewildering structure of modern cities like Seoul.

Seoul Museum of Art near City Hall Stn. (line 1 and 2, ex. 10). Weekdays 10 am - 8 pm, weekends 10 am - 6 pm, Closed Monday and New Year’s Day. seoulmoa. seoul.go.kr 02-2124-8800 Buddhist Art of Japanes Biwaho Lake Biwaho is the single biggest lake in Japan, located in Shiga. This exhibit will be a chance to explore the unique Buddhist art in the area surrounding the lake. National Museum of Korea near

10 Magazine January 2012 | 45

SEOUL CALENDAR

Openrun Nonverbal Performances Lack of Korean ability can be a big stumbling block for plays or musicals performed in the local language, but you will find none of those problems at the following shows. All ongoing, and all non-verbal, these performances are perfect for fans of dance, physical comedy, and exciting music, no matter which language you may speak.

SEOUL

Ballerina Who Loves a B-Boy A would-be ballerina falls for a b-boy street dancer in this mash-up of break dance and ballet. Lotte World Art Hall at Jamsil Stn. (line 2). Wed – Fri 8 pm, Sat – Sun 3 & 6 pm. Closed Mon & Tue. W50,000. showbboy.com 02-2266-3727

Battle B-Boy B-boy ensemble Gorilla Crew uses breakdance to tell a gripping story. B-Boy Theater Samjin B/D B1 in Hongdae. Wed - Fri 8 pm, Sat 6 pm, Sun and holidays 2 pm. 90 min. Closed Mon & Tue. W50,000. sjbboys.com 02-323-5233

Bibap Bibap depicts one of Korea’s representative dishes, bibimbap. It was favorably received at the Edinburgh Festival Fringe in 2010. Cecil Theater near City Hall Stn. (lines 1 & 2, ex. 3) and Gwangwhamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 6).

Tue - Sat 5 & 8 pm, Sun & holidays 3 & 6 pm. W40,000 - W50,000. ceciltheater.com 02-766-0815

Drawing Show: Hero Art exhibit or performance? The drawing show is as fun to watch as it is hard to classify.

Myungbo Art Hall near Chungmuro Stn. (lines 3 & 7, ex. 7). Weekdays 8 pm, Sat 4 & 7 pm, Sun & Holidays 3 & 6 pm.

W40,000 - W50,000. drawingtheater.com 02-766-7848

Drum Cat This prize-winning, all-female percussion ensemble works rock, jazz, techno, and Latin rhythms into their powerful performance.

Myungbo Art Hall in Jung-gu. Tue - Sat 4 & 8 pm. Sun & holidays 4 pm. 90 min.

Closed Mon. W40,000 - W50,000. drumcat.co.kr 02-586-8489

Fanta-stick This show mixes physical comedy with traditional Korean music for lots of laughs. Kyunghyang Newspaper Building near Seodaemun Stn. (line 5, ex. 5). Daily at 8 pm. 80 min.

W40,000 - W50,000. fanta-stick.co.kr 02-6401-5959

Jump Two would-be thieves break into a house full of martial arts masters! First performed in 2003, this show combines a comic story with martial arts moves and impressive visuals. Downtown near Jonggak Stn. Mon 8 pm, Tue – Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun 3 & 6 pm. W40,000 – W60,000. hijump.co.kr 02-722-3995

Korea House Performance Head over to the Korea House for two daily performances based on traditional Korean culture. Chungmuro Stn. (lines 3 & 4, ex. 3). Part 1: 6:30 - 7:30 pm, part 2: 8:30 - 9:30 pm. Dinner price starts at W68,200. Performance is W50,000 (30% discount with dinner). kangkoku.or.kr 02-2266-9101

Legend of Flower II This romantic tale of two lovers is back and better than ever with stunning sound effects, tantalizing aromas, holographs, and more. Walkerhill Theater at the Sheraton

46 | 10 Magazine January 2012

Grande Walkerhill. Mon - Sat 4:50 & 7:30 pm. 75 min. W60,000 and up. legendofflower.com 02-455-5000

The Marionette: B-Boy Musical This b-boy musical won the top prize in an international competition. Daehan Saengmyeong 63 Art Hall. 8 pm.

Closed Mon & the 1st & 3rd Tue. 70 min. W30,000. 63.co.kr 1661-1063

Miso Chongdong Theater presents Miso, a story of one woman’s encounter with love told through traditional dance, percussion, and music. City Hall Stn. (lines 1, 2). 4 & 8 pm. Closed Mon. 80 min. W30,000 – W50,000. miso.chongdong.com 02-751-1500

Music Theater Company Gong A modern take on the traditional music and dance of the Joseon Dynasty.

Seong Kyun Small Theater near Hyewha Stn. (line 4, ex. 4). Every Wed at 8 pm. 60 min. W20,000. cafe.daum. net/danceparamita 1544-1555

Nanta This kitchen percussion extravaganza is the stage show that nearly everyone sees at least once.

Three Seoul locations and performances almost daily. W40,000 – W60,000. To find out how to get a big discount on your tickets, see p. 21. nanta.co.kr 02-739-8288

Pan An exciting combination of Korean folk songs, dances, and games.

Gwanghwamun Art Hall. Weekdays 8 pm, weekends and holidays at 2 pm.

Closed Mon and Tue. 90 min. W30,000 - W50,000. ghmarthall.com 02-722-3416

Sa-Choom The story of three friends’ coming of age is told through dance.

Insadong near Jongno 3-ga Stn. (lines 1, 3, & 5, ex. 5). Mon - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 7:30 pm, Sun 4 pm. 80 min. W25,000 - W50,000. lovedance.co.kr 02-3676-7616

Samcheonggak Morning Performance Start the day by sipping a cup of seasonal tea and listening to the sound of traditional Korean musical instruments. Samcheonggak in Seongbuk-gu. Free shuttle bus available outside of Euljiro Stn. (line 2, ex. 1) at 10:20 am. Every final Saturday.

10 am - 11 am. 60 min. W20,000. samcheonggak.or.kr 02-765-3700

Ichon Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Tue, Wed, Fri 9 am – 6 pm. Wed, Sat 9 am – 8 pm. Sun 9 am – 7 pm. museum.go.kr 02-2077-9000 Through February 26th Reviewing Korean Sculpture Twenty-two representative Korean sculptors are exhibiting their lifetime work under various themes. Soma Museum at Olympic Park near Mongchontoseong Stn. (line 5, ex. 1).

Closed Monday, New Year’s Day, Tue - Sun 10 am - 6 pm. Adults W3,000, Teens W2,000, under 12 years free. somamuseum.or.kr 02-425-1077

Label Market Music is to be seen and not heard? Awesome album art, imaginary concert posters, and more highlight the visual side of music, though there will be plenty to listen to as well.

Sangsang Madang Art Space in Hongdae near Sangsu Stn. (line 6, ex. 1). Art Market & Gallery 1 – 10 pm. Art square 12 – 11 pm. Closed every first Mon. sangsangmadang.com 02-330-6225 Through February 29th Chinese Food, Clothing and Shelter Exhibition Exhibiting handicrafts from the Ming and Qing Dynasties. Hwajeong Museum near Gyeongbokgung Stn. (line 3, ex. 3). 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon & Holidays. W4,000. hjmuseum.or.kr 02-2075-0114 Animal or Plant? Exhibit Seodaemun Museum of Natural History near Shinchon Stn. (line 2, ex. 1,3). Adults

Through March 3rd Chocolate: The Exhibition Learn about the history of chocolate and the process of making it. Seoul Art Center.

Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 11 am -7 pm. W10,000. chocolate2012.com 02-585-9991 Through March 4th Magnum Photo Exhibition: Companions for the Globe Photos of Steve McCurry and seven other photographers show the lives of AIDS patients and how antiretroviral therapy has changed them. Seoul Art Center, Hangaram Art Museum. 11 am - 7 pm.

W10,000. sac.or.kr 02-599-5743

‘Where you’re more than just a guest’

Hello! Genius Painter of the Joseon Dynasty At this unique exhibition, you can appreciate work from the Joseon Dynasty in 3D. Seoul Art Center. Seoul Calligraphy Art Museum. W10,000. 11 am - 7 pm. sac.or.kr 02-599-5743 Through March 11th The City of Art: New York 1945-2000 Experience contemporary art of New York. 64 pieces by Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein, Keith Haring, and others.

63 Sky Art Gallery. 63 Building. Daebang Stn. (line 1, exit 6). 10 am - 8 pm.

W12,000. 63skyart.co.kr 02-789-5663 Through March 15th Yann Arthus-Bertrand: The Earth from Above 220 photos and video captures by this aerial photographer.

Seoul Museum of Art. Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 5). 10 am - 8 pm. seoulmoa.seoul.go.kr 02-2124-8936 Through March 17th Kim Han-Yong: Ad Photos and the Birth of Consumers Meet the master of

SEOUL

David LaChapelle in Seoul Known as the Fellini of photography, Americanborn pop artist David LaChapelle was recently chosen as one of the world’s 10 best photographers. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). sac.or.kr 02-580-1300

W3,000, teens W2,000, children W1,000. namu.sdm.go.kr 02330-8899

WELCOME HOME TO FRASER PLACE CENTRAL, SEOUL Experience the wealth of opportunities, wondrous sights and cultural sounds that Seoul has to offer, while enjoying the luxury and comforts of a Gold Standard serviced residence and knowing that every need is well taken care of. Fraser Place Central Seoul. The retreat within a city, your home away from home.

FRASER PLACE CENTRAL - SEOUL #202, UIJURO 1-GA, JUNG-GU, SEOUL, KOREA 100-130 Reservations: +82-2-2220-8000,8333 Website: www.fraserplace.co.kr

10 Magazine January 2012 | 47

SEOUL CALENDAR Through January 15th Zorro: The Musical Korean language.

Blue Square Performance Hall near Hangangjin Stn. (line 6, ex. 2). 8 pm.

Wed: 3:30, 8 pm. Sat: 3, 7:30 pm. Sun: 2, 6:30 pm. W30,000 - W130,000. zorrothemusical.co.kr 1544-1555

disc ov er y

Stimulating the Mind at the Lotte World Folk Museum

Through January 29th Fame: The Musical Best-selling musical Fame returns with a new star-studded Korean cast. Expect dancing, singing, passion and inspiration. In Korean.

Olympic Park, Woori Art Hall. Olympic Park Stn. (line 5, ex. 3) 8 pm, Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 2 & 6 pm. Dark Mon. W66,000 W110,000. ticket.interpark.com 1588-5212 Through February 26th Thrill Me: The Musical Based on a murder that took place in Chicago in 1924. In Korean. Chungmu Art Hall, Middle Theater Black. 8 pm; Sat & Sun 3, 6 pm. Closed Mon. W40,000 - W50,000. cmah.or.kr 02-2230-6600 January 4th - 5th Endless Voyage: Dance Performance Your chance to experience the artistry of four established names in the world of contemporary Korean dance: Kim Ju-won, Hwang Hye-min, Eom Jae-yong, and Lee Jeong-yun. Seoul Art Center, Opera Theater. 8 pm. W10,000 - 90,000. sac.or.kr 02-599-5743

Most visit Lotte World for the roller coasters, but the exhibits in the complex’s Folk Museum are in their own way just as exciting.

Most foreigners in Korea are familiar with Lotte World at Jamsil Station in southeastern Seoul. However, many people are not aware that it houses a Korean history museum that is creatively named the Lotte World Folk Museum. For some reason most travel guidebooks dismiss it as a quaint little museum that is only worth checking out if your schedule permits. It is certainly not little, and should actually be a priority for anyone seeking to learn about the history of Korea. It is this author’s personal favorite museum on the peninsula.

Much like visiting numerous temples, museum fatigue can begin while travelling in Asia if one is inundated with ancient pottery and scrolls. The Folk Museum stands apart in that it is very engaging, visually appealing, and interactive. There are hundreds of animatronic life-size displays and moving dioramas, which take the visitor on a journey from the Stone Age all the way to the Japanese occupation at the beginning of the 20th century. Some of the premiere historical sites in Korea are created either full-scale or in miniature. Among these are the Seokguram Grotto near Gyeongju, the burial tombs of Silla Dynasty kings, and the Mongol-influenced mounted warrior campaigns.

The common people’s history is also well-represented, including chances to try your hand at ancient techniques of food preparation and the day-to-day life of women, peasants, and monks. There is also a small temple in the middle of the museum where one can meditate or pray if desired. The most standout feature of the entire exhibition is a sprawling, cavernous room containing small-scale of old Korea, including Gyeongbokgung Palace with a full royal procession. There are also recreated fortress walls giving an impressive view of the entire room. Last, but not least, the museum is equipped with grammatically perfect, well-written English signage.

Ge t t i n g There

Come out exit 4 of Jamsil Station (line 2 & 5). Adults W5,000. 9:30 am – Words by Ia n H en derson 8 pm. lotteworld.com 02-411-2000 48 | 10 Magazine January 2012

Korean advertising photographs through his work. The Museum of Photography, Seoul. Located near Mongchontoseong Station (line 8, ex. 2). 10 am - 7 pm. photomuseum.or.kr 02-418-1315 Through March 18th Karl Lagerfeld’s “Work in Progress” Photo Exhibition Director of Fendi and Chanel and world-famous fashion designer, Karl Lagerfeld titled this exhibition “Work in Progress” to reflect his motto that a new piece of work should be an improvement upon the previous one.

The exhibition includes photographs from the 2011 F/W collections of Chanel and Fendi. Daelim Contemporary Art Museum near Gyeongbokgung Stn. (line 3, ex. 3).

Tue - Sun 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. W5,000. daelimmuseum.org 02-720-0667 January 21st - February 26th Ceramics Commune Art Exhibit This exhibition illuminates the dreams of happy communities through contemporary ceramic art work. Artsonje Center. Anguk Stn. (line 3, exit 1). 11 am - 7 pm. Closed Mon. artsonje.org 02-733-8945 January 27th – February 15th Homo-Sapiens Exhibit Gallery Golmok in Itaewon will put together four artists’ work which explore how we got to where we are today and what the future may have in store for our species. Artists exhibiting include Martyn Thompson (UK), Jose Antonio Nigro (Venezuela), Heesoo Koo (Korea) and Jon Breitfuss (America), with a performance on the opening night

by Alexandra Le Cann (France). m-art-yn.com, info@m-art-yn.com

Theater & Dance Ongoing Figaro, the Barber of Seville: Opera/ Musical Presented by the OTM (Originale Teatro Melodramma), this open-run production of Rossini’s famous opera buffa takes the bold step of assigning operatic roles to theatre actors and actresses. OTM Cheongdam Art Hall. Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 5 pm. 100 min. W20,000 - W50,000. otm.or.kr 070-8157-8064

January 14th - February 5th Hero: The Musical Award-winning musical Hero is the epic story of activist and assassin An Jung-geun, who sacrificed his life in the fight to preserve Korean independence. In Korean. Seoul Art Center, Opera Hall. Nambu Turminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5) 8 pm. Sat 3 pm, 7:30 pm.

Sun 2 pm, 6:30 pm. Closed Mon. W40,000 - 120,000. sac.or.kr 02-2250-5900

Concerts Ongoing Korean Music & Dance Experience the beauty of the traditional Korean Music and dance every Saturday at 4 pm.

Umyeondang (Small Hall) at the National Gugak Center near Nambu Terminal Station (line 3). W10,000. gugak.go.kr 02-580-3300 Through January 27th Arte Jazz Festival Arte Hall near Hapjeong Station (line 2 & 6, ex. 7). Every Friday at 7:30 pm. W20,000. arte.co.kr January 7th Kenya Jirani Choir Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5). 5 pm.

W30,000 - W100,000. sejongpac.or.kr 02-3461-7200 January 10th Concert in My Neighborhood Enjoy a beautiful (and free) performance by the Seoul Philharmonic Orchestra. Seoul Seongrak Church in Shingil-dong, Yeongdeungpo-gu. 7:30 pm. seoulphil. or.kr 1588-1210 January 11th Damien Rice in Concert Irish singer-songwriter Damien Rice has his first concert in Korea. With two folk rock albums behind him, he has made lots of fans, and several of his songs have been featured in popular movies. Olympic Park, Olympic Hall. Olympic Park Stn. (line 5, exit 3). 8 pm. W132,000 W165,000. superseries.kr 02-3141-3488 January 13th An Evening with Pat Metheny with Larry Grenadier Critically acclaimed jazz guitarist Pat Metheny will be joined on stage by virtuoso double bassist Larry Grenadier. Sejong Center near

e di t or’ s p ick

Notre-Dame de Paris The Musical

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January 19th – February 26th

Theater & Dance

Following Les Miserables, the longest-running musical in history, Notre-Dame de Paris is the second Victor Hugo novel to become a successful musical. After premiering in Paris in 1998, it has toured in Canada, Taiwan, and other countries.

The current tour features the English version of the show, with Matt Laurent as Quasimodo and Candice Parise as Esmerelda.

Along with the actors, the production brings to Korea 30 tons of equipment, including a 10-meter tall and 20-meter long cathedral and 100 kg bells suspended from the ceiling. The story unfolds entirely through song, with the seven major characters singing and other characters dancing around them. Show held at Sejong Center for the Performing Arts near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 1). 150 min. Weekdays 8 pm, Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 2 & 6 pm (dark Mon). W60,000 - W200,000. notredamedeparis.co.kr, ticket.interpark.com/Global Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 7). 8 pm.

W55,000 - W132,000. 02-563-0595 sejongpac.or.kr Apollo 18 in Concert Korean rock band Apollo 18 (whose latest album is reviewed on p. 40) will be having a show at Sangsang Madang Live Hall starting at 8 pm. W33,000 in advance. apollo18kr@gmail.com Virtuoso Series I Conducted by Jeong Myeong-hun, the Seoul Philharmonic Orchestra will play Brahms’ Piano Concerto No. 2, Ravel’s Ma Mere l’Oye Suite, and Stravinsky’s L’Oiseau de Feu Suite. Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm. seoulphil. or.kr 1588-1210 January 15th Lim Hyung-joo Concert: Oriental Love Sejong Center. 6 pm. W44,000 - W110,000. sejongpac.or.kr 1588-4430 January 21st Boney M. in Concert Catch Eurodisco group Boney M. at Olympic Park.

Olympic Park Stn. (line 5). ticket. interpark.com 1544-6063 January 25th Beirut Concert US indie band Beirut will be performing in Korea for the first time. They use various instruments to produce their creative melodies, which are inspired by Eastern European Gypsy music. AX-Korea. Gwangnaru Stn. (line 5, ex. 2). 8 pm. W88,000. ax-korea.co.kr 02-6339-1232 facebook.com/ sonymusickorea January 27th - 28th 2012 Amoebahood Concert Hip-hop label Amoebaculture launches a joint concert featuring Dynamic Duo, Simon D, Primary and Rhythm Power. Olympic Park, Olympic Hall. 27th: 8 pm, 28th: 7

pm. W66,000 - 88,000. amoebaculture.com 1577-3363 January 28th Dan Deacon in Korea Indie electronic musician Dan Deacon’s songs are bursting at the seams with wild sounds.

Rolling Hall in Hongdae. 11 pm. W25,000 presale, W30,000 at the door. supercolorsuper.com

Film Through January 8th Music and Musical Special The 16 movies selected for this program will get you dancing. The schedule includes Detroit Metal City, GoGo70, Shall We Dance, Last Days and many more. Seoul Art Cinema. Jongro 3-ga Stn. (line 1, 3, 5, ex. 5). W6,000. cinematheque.seoul.kr 02-741-9782 Through January 20th IMAX Screening “The Legend of Flight” Soar through the sky with the planes in the IMAX theatre. This documentary follows the development of airlines in the 20th century and focuses on the design and the production of the revolutionary Boeing 787 Dreamliner, which was released in 2009. 63 Building near Yeouinaru Stn. (line 5, ex. 4). 43 min. Screenings throughout the day. 63.co.kr 02-789-5663

Family & Community Ongoing Dialogue in the Dark Experience a life of a visually impaired person as you take a tour in the dark with your blind guide.

Vertigo Tower in Sinchon. Weekdays 12 – 8:30 pm, weekends 10 am – 7 pm.

Closed Mon. W20,000 - W30,000. dialogueinthedark.co.kr 02-313-9977

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SEOUL CALENDAR

There ain’t no party like a dance party, and the ultimate dance party this month is going down in Ilsan, just northwest of Seoul.

January 14th

Nightlife

SEOUL

The Korean winter can be rough. It’s cold, it’s snowing, and it can get you down. Luckily for lovers of good music, VU Entertainment is bringing some of the biggest names in the electronic scene to our shores for a festival designed to help you dance yourself warm.

T h e l a s t S e o u l El e c tronic Music Festival was a massive success, and the 2012 edition is set to blow its predecessor out of the water. After a long round of negotiations, VU has managed to secure French electronic titans Justice, who join an already stellar line up including gothelectro punks Cr ystal Castles, Korean stalwarts Idiotape, trance kings Above and Beyond and local legends Astro Voize, Mongoose and plenty more.

By moving the festival to the 14th of January and just west of town to Ilsan, VU is hoping to pull in some massive numbers.

2011 was a banner year for the promotions company, with the Pentaport Rock Festival, Global Gathering and a truly anarchic Halloween show featuring Boyz Noize, so there is little doubt that SEMF will continue the trend. The caliber of acts alone is enough to warrant the move out of Seoul to a bigger venue, and it’s a credit to VU that they are willing to take the risk and have the faith in the old saying: if you book them, they will come.

The acts at this year’s SEMF are a testament to Korea’s growing popularity on the festival circuit. While Korean organizers were once lucky to grab the few bands that would make a side trip while in Japan, the last few years have seen an explosion in the number of acts performing here. This is great news not only for the crowds, but also for all of the fantastic local performers who are getting exposure via tours with bigger names.

It’s clear the SEMF is going to be an event for Korean music lovers to remember, and there are few better ways to start the New Year than with a dance party. 10 will be there: make sure you are too!

Ge t t i n g There

Exhibition Center 2 at KINTEX Convention Center in Ilsan. Near Daehwa Stn. (line 3, ex. 2). 3 pm – 4 am. W110,000 in advance, W121,000 at the door. SEMF.co.kr, info@vuent.co.kr

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Wo rds by N i n a Hoffma n

Ongoing Kids Atelier Taught by a graduate from the Parsons School of Design, this weekly lecture is held every Saturday from 1 pm - 2:30 pm. Classes are available either one on one or for a group of four children between 5 to 13 years old. 50% off for 10 Magazine readers.

Paik Hae-young Gallery. artnhyo@gmail.com 010-3795-1245 Vroomiz Playground The Vroomiz, in case you weren’t aware, are animated talking vehicles shaped like animals who inhabit the Zippy City. Toddlers and preschoolers who are fans of the cartoon will enjoy this interactive playground.

Sindorim Technomart, F5.

10:30 am - 7 pm. Adults (middle school and up) W10,000, children W15,000. gogovroomiz.com 1544-4092

Through February 12th Thomas & Friends’ Activity Zones Meet Thomas & Friends, the characters from the wildly popular children’s animated series. aT Center (aT섟터) in Gangnam. 9:30 am - 6:30 pm. Adults and teens W12,000, children (12 and under) W16,000. thomastour.com 1544-5063 Through March 4th Cocomong’s Green Playground Kids can learn about protecting the environment at this exciting play area.

Sindorim Technomart 5th Floor. 10:30 am - 7 pm. Adults (middle school and up) W10,000, children W15,000. Closed Mon. playcocomong.com 1544-9033

Education & Conferences Ongoing Insect & Reptile Exhibition Who doesn’t love seeing bugs and snakes, especially when there’s a thick layer of plexiglass between you and them? Insect & Reptile Exhibition Center in Sindang Stn. (line 6). 10 am - 6 pm. W10,000. bugsfestival.com 1588-2019 Weekly Lecture on Buddhism Curious about the practice of Zen Buddhism?

English lectures by Zen Master Subul Sunim and others will enlighten you. 2:30 - 4:30 pm every Saturday except national holidays. Anguk Zen Center, 5 minutes on foot from Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex. 2). angukzen.org 011-229-2829 Through January 2nd Seoul Doll Fair Korea’s largest doll fair, displaying about 10,000 dolls. COEX at Samsung Stn. (line 2, ex. 5 & 6). 10 am - 5 pm. Adults W10,000, teens W8,000, children W6,000. coex.co.kr 02-6000-0114 Through January 5th YG Lip Marks Exhibition Have you ever wanted a kiss from the members of Big Bang or pop star Tablo? Unrealistic as that may sound, you can at least see (if not feel) the impression the lips might make with this somewhat creepy and definitely hilarious collection of lip marks by pop stars represented by YG Entertainment. B2, Sin-Bundang Line, Gangnam Station. 7:30 am - 12 pm.

Through February 26th The Gold Treasures of Ukraine Exhibition These golden artifacts shed new light on the Scythian Period in the

Through February 28th This is Korea 1970KHz: History of Korean Pop Culture Learn about the life of Koreans during the 60s and 70s at this interactive exhibit. Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8).

10 am - 7 pm. W12,000 - W20,000. sejongpac.or.kr 1544-1887 January 17th RASKB Lecture: Short Stories of Park Jiwon Professor Emanuel Pastreich of Kyunghee University will lecture on Park Jiwon, a powerful advocate of a more open and imaginative nation in the second half of the 18th century. Learn about how a yangban like Park uncovered the world of ordinary people. 2nd floor Resident’s Lounge, Somerset Palace. 7:30 - 9 pm. W5,000. raskb.com raskb@kornet.net January 31st RAKSB Lecture: The Joseon Dynasty Uigwe Uigwe are official records of the Superintendency of the Joseon Dynasty.

Find out what can be discovered from these books in this lecture by Professor Yi Song-mi of the Academy of Korean Studies. 7:30 - 9 pm. W5,000. raskb.com raskb@kornet.net

Sport & Fitness January 14th Traveling the Homeland Marathon 5k, 10, half, and full marathon to depart from Sindaebang Stn. (line 2, ex. 3) at 10 am. W15,000 - W25,000. Sign up by January 12th. tourmarathon.com 1644-4219

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SEOUL

Through January 29th Delicious Art: Art & Cook A combination of creativity and food show that shows there are no limits to modern art. Sejong Center. Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 7) 11 am - 8:30 pm. W5,000 (Making muffins W15,000). sejongpac.or.kr 02-399-1022

Ukraine. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 11 am - 7 pm.

W10,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300

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January 19th I Love Parks Marathon 5k, 10, half, and full marathon to depart from Sangam World Cup Station (line 6, ex. 3) at 9 am.

W15,000 - W25,000. Sign up by January 19th. tourmarathon.com 1644-4219

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January 24th The New Years Marathon 5k, 10, half, and full marathon to depart from Sindorim Stn. (lines 1 & 2, ex. 1) at 10 am. W15,000 - W25,000. Sign up by January 20th. tourmarathon.com 1644-4219

Beautiful Health, NY Wholistic Care

January 28th Boramae Park Marathon 5k, 10, half, and full marathon to depart from Sindaebang Stn. (line 2, ex. 3) at 10 am.

W15,000 - W25,000. Register by January 26th. tourmarathon.com 1644-4219

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T. 02. 792. 2296 Office Hour M-F: 8a~9p Sat: 8a~5p www.nywc.co.kr

Live without PAIN

Dine & Drink Ongoing Korean Cooking Classes and Tours Learn authentic Korean cuisine in English and explore some of Seoul’s more exciting culinary districts with O’ngo Food. ongofood.com 02-3446-1607

Travel Ongoing Palace Tours Youth volunteers are your guides at these free English tours at Deoksugung Palace, taking place every 2nd and 4th Saturday at 10 am & 2:30 pm. Admission to the palace is W1,000. ici@icworld.or.kr 02-3210-3266 January 12th - 15th Korea Travel Expo 2012 COEX at Samsung Stn. (line 2, ex. 5 & 6). W5,000, or free with pre-registration. naenara.or.kr 02-6000-0114

International Health Insurance Benefit.

10 Magazine January 2012 | 51

SEOUL CALENDAR January 14th Hangang Booze Cruise Tour The first All-You-Can-Drink Han river boat cruise of 2012 will get you three hours of travel up and down the river at night. Great bands are lined up to play non-stop throughout the cruise. Hangang dock near Yeouinaru Stn. (line 5, ex. 3). 6 pm sharp. W50,000 in advance, W60,000 last minute at door. adventurekorea.com 010-4242-5536 January 15th DMZ Trip As Korea is the only divided country in the world, this trip will help you better understand Korea as you go around the demilitarized zone. Departure at Hongik Univ. Stn & Express Bus Terminal Stn. 9 am. W42,000. adventurekorea.com 010-4242-5536

SEOUL

January 21st - 24th Lunar New Year Special Trip This 4-day trip is a variety deal, including skiing, ice fishing and the Blue Canyon Water Park.

Allow yourself a great holiday in one of the best parts in Korea. Departure from Hongik Univ. Stn & Express Bus Terminal Stn. 7 am. W295,000. adventurekorea.com 010-4242-5536 January 28th Taebaek Snow Festival Taebaek has a great winter festival, a gorgeous cave to explore and a beautiful mountain to hike where you can enjoy a magnificent view of the surroundings. Departure from Hongik Univ. Stn. & Express Bus Terminal Stn. 7:30 am. W93,000. adventurekorea.com 010-4242-5536 January 28th - 29th Skiing and Snowboarding Trip The winter season has arrived and it’s time to hit the slopes. Korea will be hosting the 2018 Winter Olympics and Phoenix Park will be the site of the snowboarding and mogul competitions. Check out real Olympic-style ski slopes on this trip.

Departure from Hongik Univ. Stn & Express Bus Terminal Stn. 7:30 am. W126,000. adventurekorea.com 010-4242-5536

Nightlife Ongoing Club Day After a 6-month hiatus, Club Day has returned to Hongdae. As before, it’s held the final Friday of each month.

Entrance to M2, Via DD, NB2, Saab, Qvo, Ska2, and other top Hongdae party spots along with a free drink only costs W20,000. 8 pm - 6 am. theclubday.co.kr Open Mic Night at Bar Ireland Yuki Enjoy the musings of Seoul’s best talent every Thursday night at Bar Ireland Yuki.

Registration begins at 7:30 pm and the show starts at 8 pm. Free admission.

Located near Itaewon Station (line 6, ex.

2), right next to Kraze Burger. itaewonopenmic@gmail.com Quiz Night at Craftworks Every Wednesday at 8:30 pm. Great prizes including W50,000 bar tab for 1st place and prizes from sponsors. Craftworks Taphouse is located near Noksapyeong Stn. (line 6, ex. 2). craftworkstaphouse.com 02-794-2537 Rhyme Time: Spoken Word and Poetry Every 2nd and 4th Thursday, head to Tony’s Aussie Bar in Itaewon for a literary evening. 8 pm. tonysitaewon.com 02-790-0793 Stand Up Seoul Comedy Night Korea’s finest English language comedians deliver monologues and rants about expat life and other topics. New acts are welcome! The show starts at 9 pm on every first Thursday of each month at the Rocky Mountain Tavern in Itaewon. Facebook: Stand Up Seoul james.hershberger@gmail.com

52 | 10 Magazine January 2012

E di t or’ s Pick

T h e Ice R i n k s of Seou l

If you’ve been ice skating at all in Seoul, it’s probably at the free rink that the city operates each year at Seoul Plaza, downtown near City Hall. While that may be the cheapest option around, it’s certainly not your only choice. From indoor rinks that are open all year long to outdoor surfaces that are only frozen in the cold weather months, you have your choice of locations, prices, and service. So strap on your skates (and bring some gloves, as you may be turned away without them) and show Kim Yuna what you’ve got.

P ho t o s b y D o m i n i q u e B u c k All Year

Winter Only

Dong Cheon Ice Rink Dong Cheon Sports in Nowon-gu near Junggye Stn. (line 7, ex. 3). 10 am - 5:30 pm. Entrance fee W4,000 - W5,000. Skate rental W3,000. dcsports.co.kr 02-9499-114

December 3rd – February 12th Sangam World Cup Rink World Cup Stadium Stn. (line 6, ex. 1). Entrance fee W2,000. Skate rental W1,000. worldcuprink.com 02-3394-8666

Korea University Ice Rink On the Korea University campus near Anam Stn. (line 6, ex. 1). Mon - Sun 2 - 6 pm. Vacation: Mon - Sat 1 - 6 pm. Sun 2 - 6 pm. Entrance fee W5,000 - W6,000.

Skate rental W3,000. kicerink.co.kr 02-3290-4243

December 3rd – February 28th Grand Hyatt Seoul Ice Rink One of Seoul’s classic skating venues, the Grand Hyatt Seoul is located up the hill from Hangangjin Stn. (line 6, ex. 1). Mon - Thu: 12 - 5 pm (W20,000 + 10% VAT) and weekends, holidays, and December 23th to January 29th 10 am - 10 pm (W25,000 + 10% VAT). seoul.grand.hyatt.com 02-799-8888

Kwang Woon University Ice Rink Kwang Woon University in Nowon-gu, near Seongbuk Stn. (line 1, ex. 2). Weekdays 2 - 5 pm. Weekends 12 - 5 pm. Entrance fee W4,000 - W4,500. Skate rental W2,500 - W3,000. kw.ac.kr 02-940-5114 Lotte World Indoor Ice Skating Rink This is the indoor ice rink at Lotte World theme park. The moving lights create a romantic atmosphere at night.

Songpa-gu near Jamsil Stn. (lines 2 & 8, ex. 4).

Adults W8,500.

Skate rental W4,500.

Weekdays 11 am - 10:30 pm. Weekends 10 am - 10:30 pm. lotteworld.com 02-411-4591 Mokdong Ice Rink The biggest indoor skating rink in Korea. Near Omokgyo Stn. (line 5). Mon - Sat: 2 – 6 pm. Sun & holidays 12 - 6 pm. Vacation: 10 am - 6 pm. Entrance fee W3,000 – W4,000. Skate rental W3,000 for the first 2 hours.

W1,000 for every additional hour. mdicerink.co.kr 02-2649-8454 Taereung International Skating Rink The Taerung Training Center’s ice rink is famous as the former practice spot of Kim Yuna, the nation’s figure skating hero. Taereung Training Center, San 223-19, Gongreung-dong, Nowon-gu. 10 am - 7 pm. Entrance fee W3,000 - W4,000. Skate rental W3,000. icerink.or.kr 02-970-0501

December 9th - mid-February Garden 5′s “Ice Garden” Outdoor Ice Rink Not your normal ice skating experience. Transformed into a haven of LED lights, Garden 5 will create an air of excitement for children and romance for couples. Jangji Stn. (line 5, ex. 3). Weekdays 10 am - 8:50 pm, weekend 10 am - 10 pm. Adults W2,000, children W1,000. Skate rental W1,000. garden5.com 02-2157-8770 December 10th - February 12th Olympic Park Ice Rink This outdoor rink is located amidst the grandeur of Olympic Park, easily accessible from Olympic Park Stn. (line 5) and Mongchontoseong Stn. (line 8). W1,000 admission, with skate rental W1,500. 02-410-1654 December 16th - February 12th Seoul Plaza Ice Rink Get ready for Seoul’s cheapest ice skating rink, which opens each winter at Seoul Plaza. As always, an hour of fun on the ice can be had for only W1,000, which includes your skate rental (but not gloves, so bring your own or buy them on-site). City Hall Stn. (lines 1 & 2, ex. 7). 10 am - 10 pm, 11 pm on Saturday. seoulskate.or.kr 02-120 December 22th – early February Sheraton Walkerhill Ice Rink Take the hotel shuttle at Gwangnaru Stn (line 5, ex. 2).

Weekdays 12- 9 pm, weekends 12 - 10 pm. Entrance fee + Skate rental weekdays W32,000, weekends W42,000. sheratonwalkerhill.co.kr 02-455-5000

SEOUL DIRECTORY

Seoul Foreigner Assistance

Transportation

ATEK (Association for Teachers of English in Korea) atek.or.kr Seoul Dasan (City Info) 02-120 Seoul Global Center global.seoul.go.kr 02-1688-0120 Yeoksam English 02-3453-9038 Yeonnam Chinese 02-6406-8151 Seorae French 02-570-6009 Ichon Japanese 02-2199-8882 Itaewon/Hannam English

02-2199-8883~5

International Taxi (English Speaking)

1644-2255 Jumbo Taxi Service (more expensive)

02-888-2000 Interactive Subway Map smrt.co.kr Law Firm

SEOUL

Accessories

On hats & luggage tags

Only takes 1 minute

A Few Good Lawyers

US & Korean Attorneys

importer emium wine a direct pr s up with a... meet

Civil & Criminal

Noksapyeong Itaewon McDonald’s Market

Burger King Hannam-dong International Arcade

02-796-9052 Ambrosia Customized Embroidery You write it, he’ll sew it! It only takes a minute to have your name or message embroidered on hats, luggage tags, backpacks, T-shirts, ties and jackets.

56-9, Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. mrnameonhat.co.kr 02-796-9052

JM Law Group Hard to find a good lawyer in Korea? We at JM Law Group will fight for your legal rights from employment disputes to business transactions. For a free consultation, please email us at kkim@jmlaw.co.kr

professional Ger man baker who introduces Them to a...

Flower

Travel Agencies

Cosmojin Tour cosmojin.com 02-318-0345 Fides Travel fidestravel.co.kr 02-755-5470 JNC Travel Itaewon Itching to travel?

This travel agent offers worldwide discount air tickets, hotels, professional counseling, and package goods. Mon - Fri 10 am - 7 pm, Sat 10 am - 5 pm, Sun 1 - 5 pm.

02-796-9633 Unique Travel Itaewon uniquetravel.co.kr 02-792-0606 Xanadu Travel xanadu.co.kr 02-795-7771

er import meat a... ality gs in in top qu br hen who t Gourmet na cheese dis tural tributor.. .

?

Insurance

Exit #1

Flower shop 31 Free delivery in Seoul and Gyeonggi Province. English, Chinese, Japanese 1688-373; Korean (02) 415-3731 flowershop31.com

HIGH STREET MARKET

IP Boutique Hotel Japan Plaza

Hotels/Accommodations

Samsung Fire and Marine Insurance Automobile and motorcycle insurance provided by one of Korea’s most reliable conglomerates. Also available; Life/ Annuities, Business/Fire, Supplemental Medical, Travel Insurance. 010-3232-0625 Radio

TBS eFM FM 101.3 American Forces Network

AM 1530 / FM 102.7

KoreaHotel.com Korea’s version of Expedia. koreahotel.com 4-5 Star Hotels Astoria 02-2268-7111 COEX InterContinental 02-3452-2500 Courtyard 02-2638-3000 Grand InterContinental 02-555-5656 JW Marriott 02-6282-6262 Millenium Hilton 02-753-7788 Renaissance 02-555-0501 Ritz-Carlton 02-3451-8000

Hangangjin Station

High Street Market (2nd floor)

Buy the Way Exit #2 Cheil Building 제일기획

PARK HERE

Hannam-dong Community Center Parking Lot

Itaewon Station Subway: Line 2 to Itaewon Station exit #2 Go straight and High Street Market is on your left Line 6 Hangangjin Station exit #1 Go straight and High Street Market will be on your right

Phone: 02-790-5450, Fax: 02-790-5457 www.highstreet.co.kr www.twiter.com/highstreetseoul 10 Magazine January 2012 | 53

SEOUL DIRECTORY Hostels Guest House Baenang Yongsan ghbaenang.com 010-9071-4641 Guesthouse Korea Jongno guesthouseinkorea.com 02-3674-2205 Bebop Guesthouse Hongdae bebop-guesthouse.com, 070-8261-4835 Kim’s Guesthouse Hongdae kimsguesthouse.com 02-337-9894 Namu Guesthouse Hongdae namugh.co.kr 070-8291-4878 Olympic Parktel Jamsil parktel.co.kr/english 02-410-2114 Seoul Backpackers Myeongdong seoulbackpackers.com 02-3672-1972 Medical Services

SEOUL

A Plus Dental aplusnetworks.co.kr 02-3442-7616 Hus Hu Dental & Skin Clinic hus-hu.com 02-519-8013 Jaseng Hospital of Oriental Medicine Are you suffering from back or neck pain? Visit the non-surgical spinal specialists. jaseng.net 02-3218-2167 Korea Counseling Psychological Association krcpa.or.kr 02-498-8293 Korea HIV/AIDS Prevention & Support Center khap.org 02-927-4322 New York Wholistic Care Dr. Vincent Jong, an experienced New York chiropractor, uses pilates/yoga and body balancing therapy to help you reenergize your mind and achieve optimal health.

F2, 736-21 Hannam-dong, Yongsangu. nywc.co.kr 02-792-2296 Ra Dental Clinic 02-569-8745 Tufts Dental Clinic 02-553-7512

darts and several sports on big-screen TVs with great food. The Gyeongnidan location will satisfy your Canadian-style pizza needs. Beer O’Clock serves up good times.

Sinchon: 02-333-9733

Bellydance Lessons with Eshe Morning, afternoon, and evening classes, plus Sunday classes at the Well Being Studio. navah@live.com Fine Art Class Myeongdong 7 -1 pm Fridays. cafe.daum.net/artd

02-771-2026 Ballet Stretching Itaewon Dance your days away with a diverse selection of classes available: child ballet, yoga, tae bo, yoga for pregnant women, pilates, diet dance, and even salsa classes.

Private training available. Mon–Fri open 9 am–10 pm. 124-7 Itaewon-dong, yongsan-gu. 010-9309-9021

Berlin Noksapyeong Combining a restaurant, cafe and lounge, Berlin boasts a varied menu, plus wines and all types of music. Noksapyeong St. (line 6). 457-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. awakeinseoul@gmail.com 02-749-0903

Learn Korean from a pro.

All of our Korean language teachers have a Masters Degree in Teaching Korean as a Second Language or are getting one. And they all have years of experience teaching people like you!

Dulwich College Seoul Banpo The curriculum from toddlers to year 8 (ages 18 months to 14 years) follows the best practice of the Early Years Foundation Stage Framework and English National Curriculum, enhanced for an international setting.

02-3015-8500

InterCultural Communications Learn Korean at your home or office from experienced, professional Korean language teachers.

02-512-8443

B1 Itaewon One of the most hopping bars in Itaewon on any given night, with guest DJs and a good vibe.

7 pm - 3 am.

02-749-6164

International Guides of Korea Courses in ice climbing, rock climbing and more. iguidekorea.com Jai Center for Yoga and Health jaicenter.co.kr 02-3443-9642 Pottery Classes at Yido Academy Gahoe-dong in Seoul. Fri 10 - 12 am. yidostyle@hanmail.net 02-744-0756 Salsa Lessons in English Top Bar near Apgujeong St. Call Crys at 010-4755-4728

Speaking Listening Diction Presentation 그레고리 에트하트 영어 프레젠테이션, 비즈니스 영어, 메디컬 영어, 영어회화, 취업 유학 준비, 영어발표, TOEFL 말하기와 작문

G re g o ry Eth e a rt 0 10 - 9 9 3 0 - 7 6 5 6 WY Dentistry Gangnam Better than your dentist back home. Dr. Yoo is a US-trained and licensed dentist with over 20 years of clinical dental experience serving the expat community since 1996. wydent.com

02-514-5575 Classes

Access Consciousness What if the life you imagined was actually possible?

Regular classes held in Seoul & around Korea. Contact Nate at 010-6285-6283 or nhkent@gmail.com Bikram Yoga Gangnam Feel the 105°F heat of the original Bikram Yoga with 90-minute classes taught by passionate instructors. Behind the Kyobo Tower building, Sinnonhyeon Stn. (line 9, ex.

7). bikramyogakorea.co.kr 02-532-2101

54 | 10 Magazine January 2012

Greg’s English Private effective English conversational speaking and listening lessons for adults, middle and high school students. TOEFL, ILETS gregblex@gmail.com 010-9930-7656

Advertise in our Directory!

It’s inexpensive and helps expats and tourists find YOU! marketing@10magazine.asia

or 02-3447-1611

Sanirang Alpine Networks This climbing service offers lessons, clinics, and guided tours. sanirang.net/about. html, info@sanirang.net Suseonjae Meditation and Deep Breathing Classes jihye@suseonjae.org 019-201-5958 Wise-Up Workouts Lose weight and get lean in less than 30 days guaranteed? Author and creator of the No. 1 gym-free program is now in Korea. 1 to 1 service. Grab the book “Wise-Up Workouts” at www. wiseupworkouts.com 010-4998-8722 Bars/Lounges/Pubs

Wine Bars Dulce Y Suave Garosugil Stop by this classy Sinsa-dong wine bar for an extensive wine list that won’t break your budget. 5 pm - 3 am. club.cyworld.com/ dulceysuave.

02-515-6750 Vin Ga Apgujeong Immaculate service and a subdued atmosphere make this the wine bar of choice for dinner parties and business meetings. Podo Plaza building near Apgujeong St. podoplaza.co.kr 02-516-1761 Lounges / PUBS 3 Alley Pub Itaewon Rub shoulders with long-term Seoul expats and try your hands at darts or pool in this comfortable foreigner-owned pub.

116-15 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu.

3alleypub.com 02-749-3336 Bar Rouge Itaewon Luxurious wine and tapas bar in the basement of the JW Marriot in Gangnam. Happy hour Tue - Thu 6 - 9 pm.

02-6282-6763 Beer O’Clock The bar in Sinchon has

Between Itaewon This multi-level lounge serves contemporary Italian and Spanish mains, lunch, brunch and tapas in a sophisticated atmosphere with live DJs and a spacious terrace. 124-7 Yongsangu, Itaewon-dong.

02-795-6164 Bliss Itaewon Fresh beats by DJ Shine and a reasonably priced menu.

Itaewon. 4 pm – 4 am.

02-798-1125 BricX Hongdae, Itaewon Chill out at either of BricX’s two locations.

Hongdae 6 pm – 5 am, 마포구 서교동 409-1, B1, 02-3141-5571. Itaewon 7 pm – 5 am, 용산구 이태원동 119-10, B1, bricx.com 02-795-5572 The Bungalow Itaewon This quirky beach-themed bar has sand on the floor, swinging chairs, and candle-lit rooms.

02-793-2344 Coffee Bar K Cheongdam-dong A Japanese franchise, they may just have the best bartenders in town. Mon – Sat 6 pm - 2 am.

02-516-1970 The Concorde Classic and cozy, this wine and martini bar offers an intimate and timeless atmosphere. Reuben sandwiches, quiche, soups and salads available till 1:00 am.

02-749-1210 Craftworks Taphouse Itaewon Whet your whistle with fine craft beers including Korea’s first IPA, and stave off your appetite with some great eats. craftworkstaphouse.com 02-794-ALES Dillinger’s A classic-styled bar with seven beers on tap, great food and drink specials. Come enjoy our large flatscreen TVs, dartboards and Wii games. A great atmosphere for you and your friends.

02-793-7232

eight flat screens throughout the bar along with the meanest plate of pork ribs to be found in Seoul. samryans.com

02-749-7933

Canadian Pub & Restaurant Monday Dry Rib Night Tuesday

ight

Wing N

SEOUL

Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong Great home-style Italian cuisine and all-day brunch with an extensive wine, cocktail and beer selection. This is the best that Noksapyeong/Gyeongnidan has to offer.

More info on Facebook: “Noxa Lounge.”

02-790-0776 Platoon Kunsthalle Apgujeong Showcasing underground artists and a fine selection of cutting-edge performances. 11 am – 1 am. Closed Sun. 97-22 Gangnam-gu, Nonhyeondong. kunsthalle.com 02-3447-1191

Phillies Haebangchon The legendary local bar is now remodeled and under new ownership. Great burgers and wings.

02-793-2548 Scrooge Pub/Dicken’s Lounge Itaewon A great little sports bar with pool, darts, delicious food and plenty of English-speaking staff. 02-797-8201 Seoul Pub Crawl Meet cool people, play drinking games and party all night long. Where the bars get louder, the drinks get cheaper and the people get better looking. www.seoulpubcrawl. webs.com 010-5839-9257 Seventy Four Cheongdam-dong A beautiful date spot featuring exotic drinks such as cheese martinis, banana mojitos and cuba libres. 7 pm – 4 am.

02-542-7412 Tony’s Aussie Bar & Bistro Itaewon Home of W6000 Guinness & Kilkenny on tap. Non–smoking environment with authentic Aussie food, beer & wine with Monday open mic and Wednesday comedy night. tonysitaewon.com 02-790-0793 Wolfhound Itaewon Terrific Irish/British classic food in a true Irish Pub atmosphere, including shepherd’s pie, toad in a hole, fish n’ chips, bangers n’ mash along with Guinness and Kilkenny on draft. wolfhoundpub.com 02-749-7971

Burgers & Bar 3F

• W300 / wing • 11 different flavors • W5,500 cocktails Friday Bar special Saturday Live music/DJ Sat/Sun Truck Stop Brunch

www.rockymountaintavern.com 010-5189-2327 010-7196-0857 Rocky Mountain Tavern Itaewon Canadians feel right at home with all the hockey jerseys hanging on the walls and great live music and events, along with some of the best buffalo wings in Korea.

Don’t miss the Stand Up Seoul comedy night the first Thursday of each month. rockymountaintavern.com 010-5775-2327 Roofers Itaewon Come hang out in a warm, friendly atmosphere. Sample the mouthwatering menu, relax on the spacious rooftop and enjoy numerous expat events. Facebook: Roofers Rooftop Bar. 02-749-2970 Sam Ryan’s Itaewon This newcomer to the Itaewon scene offers sports fans

• Winter Beer Special Cass 500 cc only W2,300!

• 2 Beer Pong Tables!

• Best Nachos in Korea!

Sinchon 02-333-1604 Yaletown Sinchon Great food using only the best ingredients. Owned by a former NHL/NBA reporter, request your favorite game to watch! Now featuring “Barcraft.”

02-333-1604

10 Magazine January 2012 | 55

SEOUL DIRECTORY Restaurants

American Chili King Itaewon Beefy burgers and chili served up by owner Kevin Cyr.

02-795-1303 Bonji Bistro Just behind Itaewon Hotel and under Gecko’s Garden, Bonji Bistro offers a terrific menu of salads, sandwiches, pastas and classic tapas along with an unbeatable bar. The floor-to-ceiling window door-walls open wide, making it the perfect place to be for their delicious weekend brunch. geckosterrace.com 02-795-9656

t 10 Veterinarians t 10 vet burses t State of the art equipment CT, MRI, Digital X-Ray, U/S, Laser therapy

t International pet transportation service

SEOUL FRESHLY GROUND BEEF

25% Discount

for US soldiers and English teachers Coolpet Building, 35-3 Samseong-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 02-3443-8275 www.dr-pet.co.kr EST. 1984 Burgers are cooked up on their imported rotagrill. Hand-made burgers have become all the craze in Korea, and these are some damn good ones. est1894.com 02-792-1894 The Frypan Delicious fried chicken near Itaewon Station.

02-794-5598 Gallery Through Head here to enjoy fantastic meals, parties, art, and people.

02-798-1900 Gecko’s Terrace The original Itaewon foreigner hangout, with a comfortable atmosphere, delicious food including great sandwiches, salads and pasta, and English-speaking staff that know how to make cocktails and shots right. geckosterrace.com 02-749-9425 Gecko’s Garden Legendary for its gorgeous home-style atmosphere, Gecko’s Garden has now started offering a delicious buffet, with steaks and pasta made to order. Don’t worry; the tapas menu is also still alive and well. geckosterrace.com 02-790-0540

FUSION RESTAURANT TEL: 02.749.0508

Kimchi Pots

Noksapyeong Station Exit 2

Gyeongridan

Indigo A cozy cafe boasting terrific international favorites like their chicken pesto sandwich and a legendary weekend brunch at great prices.

Free wifi.

02-749-0508

56 | 10 Magazine January May 20112012

Hollywood Grill The place for Premier League Football and other sports, Hollywood has a great menu of pizza, pasta and steaks along with darts, foosball, pool and Golden Tee. hollywoodgrill.co.kr 02-749-1659 Naked Grill Terrific Mexican food, salads and steaks, cooked up to order in a trendy atmosphere. 02-749-4225 Pancakes Original Story Itaewon Mon – Sat 9 am – 10 pm. 02-794-0508 Pita Time Haebangchon The salads, pitas and pizzas here provide a low-calorie, healthy meal. 11 am - 10 pm. pitatime.co.kr 02-790-8891 The Pizza Peel Itaewon Offering fresh classic Italian and Western-style pizzas. Enjoy with beer or wine. Hard to find but easy to remember! Dine in or take out.

02-795-3283 Suji’s Itaewon Great American fare in a New York-style bistro atmosphere. sujis.net 02-797-3698 T.G. Brunch Cafe Chef Choi from Hawaii serves a delightful brunch along with his signature burgers, sandwiches, and more. Wine W2,500 for ladies.

Wednesdays wing night: 10 for W3,000.

02-749-8005 Toque Itaewon 02-794-3834 Austrian Chef Meili Itaewon 02-797-3820 BRAZILIAN Copacabana Itaewon For only W29,000 you get all-you-can-eat of 7 different cuts of roasted meat and a tremendous Brazilian buffet. Make your reservations today!

02-796-1660 Bulgarian Zelen Itaewon 02-749-0600 Chinese Ho Lee Chow Serving up the best North American-style Chinatown cuisine in Korea since 1998, with 5 convenient locations in the greater Seoul area to serve you. holeechow.co.kr. Itaewon 02-793-0802, Apgujeong 02-514-1730 Jamshil 02-411-0688, Dogok 02-34614468, Bundang 02-711-9071 Italian Fradia Gangnam Gaze out on a panoramic view of the Seoul skyline as you dine on choice Italian food at this cafe floating on the Han River. fradia.co.kr 02-3477-0033 La Bocca Itaewon We can’t decide whether it’s a cafe, pastry shop, deli, or wine bar, but what we are sure about is that the food is fresh and the taste is divine. labocca.co.kr 02-790-5907 Sortino’s Cucina Itaewon Classic Italian trattoria cuisine in a comfortable, homey atmosphere.

02-797-0488 Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong 02-790-0776 Villa Sortino’s Itaewon An incredible Tuscan Villa interior matches perfectly with some tastefully prepared Italian flavors. Just across from the Itaewon fire station.

02-553-9000 korean Bulgogi Brothers Delicious Koreanstyle barbecue at locations throughout Seoul including Gangnam, Myeongdong (02-319-3351), Seoul Station, and Times Square. 11:30 am - 10 pm. bulgogibros.com Maple Tree House (단풍나무집) Itaewon Classy Korean BBQ in the alley just behind the Hamilton Hotel (other branches are located in Samcheongdong and Dogok-dong). 116-1 Itaewondong, Yongsan-gu.

02-790-7977 Pulhyanggi Gangnam A tasty concoction of traditional Korean dishes and a contemporary slow-food sensibility, plus performances in the evenings. Close to COEX. 11 am – 10

Clubs

Club Hamilton Hotel

spinning house and electro beats.

W30,000 general admission, W40,000 for after club hours. Near Yeoksam St. clubheaven.co.kr 02-3444-4997 J.J. Mahoney’s The drinks don’t come cheap, but this nightclub at the Grand Hyatt is a favorite with the over-30s crowd. 747-7 Hannam 2-dong. seoul.grand.hyatt.com 02-797-1234 Koobar @Blue Spirit Apgujeong Hip music for a classy crowd. 664-11 Shinsadong, Gangnam-gu.

02-518-5115 M2 Hongdae This long-running club is party central for college students. Sun – Thu 8 pm – 4 am, Fri and Sat 7:30 pm – 6 am. Cover starts at W10,000. 36711 Seogyo-dong Mapo-gu. ohoo.net/m2 02-3143-7573 NB Hongdae, Gangnam Supposedly the first hip-hop club in Korea, it has one bar, two stages, and a packed crowd. clubnb.com 02-326-1716 Q-vo Hongdae A popular hip hop club with strobes pulsing above the dance floor. Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun 8 pm – 4 am and Wed, Fri, Sat 8 pm – 6:30 am.

W10,000 - W15,000. 121-210 Ohoo B/ D 367-1 Seogyo Dong. clubqvo.co.kr 02-3143-7573 Volume Itaewon A true “music lovers” club, Volume is found in the basement of Crown Hotel. Fri and Sat 9 pm - 6 am. W15,000 - W30,000. Crown Hotel B1 clubvolume.com 1544-2635 Woo Bar Check out the split-level lobby lounge for cool music and exclusive parties. No cover charge. 21 Gwangjang-dong wseoul.com 02-465-2222

02-3142-4233

Fresh!

New Taste!

Taco / Burrito / Fajita / Quesadilla Enchiladas / Margarita & Beer

Live Music

Jazz All That Jazz Itaewon 02-795-5701 Cheonnyeondongando (천년동안도) Daehangno (Hyehwa St. Line4) chunnyun.com 02-743-5555 Club Evans Hongdae clubevans.com 02-337-8361 Club Palm Hongdae clubpalm.co.kr 02-336-9016 Once in a Blue Moon Apgujeong onceinabluemoon.co.kr 02-549-5490

Fire Station

ion

n Stat Itaewo

KB Bank

Police Station

[ Itaewon Station Exit 3 ] Tel: 793.2333

Everyday 11:30 am ~ 10:30 pm

Catering & Delivery Service Available InterContinental Hotel Oakwood Premier Woori Bank Teheranno

COEX

America Latina Itaewon opens at 8 pm Wednesdays to Sundays and offers Salsa classes. Check Facebook group: Club America Latina in Seoul.

Answer Cheongdam-dong After a short-lived stint as gala restaurant Le Nuit Blanche, the club we all know and love is back. clubanswer.co.kr 02-514-4311 Ben @Blue Spirit Hongdae Great Japanese curry during the day and soju cocktails at night. Hit up the weekend parties. 360-18 SeokyoDong, Mapo-Gu. 02-3142-5301 Eden Gangnam Mega club with top DJs, sizzling sound, and model nights. 역삼동 602 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnamgu, Ritz Carlton Hotel. eden-club.co.kr 010-9913-3919 Function Itaewon The boutique club hidden in the fancy Macaroni Market restaurant. Tue, Wed, Thu 6 pm – 2:30 am; Fri and Sat 6 pm-3:30 am. 737-50 Hannnam1-dong Yongsan-gu.

02-749-9181 Heaven Gangnam The newest member of Seoul’s club scene combines top-notch technology with divine DJs

Hyundai Department Store

LINE Line 22 Samseong Stn.

Tokyo Jazz Authentic jazz music performed Mon-Sat, 9:30 pm - 12:30 am by European, American, and Korean musicians. Two minute’s walking distance from the COEX and Grand InterContinental Hotels. 153-44 Samsung-dong.

02-3453-4472

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SINCHON: 02-324-0682 COEX CALT: 02-565-0682 TIMES SQUARE: 02-2672-0682 APGUJEONG: 02-518-0682

www.ontheborder.co.kr blog.naver.com/4ontheborder 10 Magazine January 2012 | 57

SEOUL

pm. pulhyanggi.co.kr 02-539-3390 Mexican Amigos Itaewon 02-795-9711 On the Border The #1 American chain hits that craving for fajitas, chimichangas, tacos, burritos, enchiladas and even margaritas. ontheborder.co.kr Sinchon: 02-324-0682 COEX: 02-565-0682 Times Square: 02-2672-0682 Pancho’s Itaewon 02-792-4767 Taco Amigo Itaewon 02-749-5253 Tomatillo Grill Locations at Jonggak Stn., Samseong Stn., and Yeoksam Stn. tomatillo.co.kr 02-734-9225 Middle Eastern Istanbul Noksapyeong 02-796-0271 Marakech Nights Itaewon 02-795-9441 Petra Itaewon 02-790-4433 SPANISH Bodega Jamsil With flamenco every Friday. bodega.co.kr 02-3432-8686 Thai Buddha’s Belly Itaewon A lounge atmosphere with full bar and cocktails along with great authentic Thai food.

02-796-9330 Eat Me Itaewon Thai fusion dining and lounge, late night kitchen in Itaewon.

Relax in the intimate yet casual dining area and outside patio. Sophisticated atmosphere is sure to please.

070-7624-3149 My Thai Itaewon 02-794-8090 Thai Orchid Itaewon 02-517-1135 Thai Garden Itaewon 02-792-8836 Wang Thai Itaewon Prepared by locally trained chefs, Wang Thai offers only the best of Thai food. Enjoy delicious food in an exotic ambience.

02-749-2746~7

SEOUL DIRECTORY Rock Freebird Hongdae cafe.navercom/ clubfreebird 02-335-4576 Jammers Hongdae jammers.co.kr 02- 325-3914 Just Blues Apgujeong justblues.co.kr 02-542-4788 SoundHolic Hongdae cafe.daum.net/SoundHolic Korean Tours

SEOUL

Adventure Korea adventurekorea.com 018-242-5536 Explore Korea This Jeju local travel company specializes in private getaways and special group tours to Jeju Island.

They offer inexpensive tours with high quality service. explorekorea.net

070-4254-3956/ 010-2697-3955 Korean Safari koreansafari.com 019-542-2955 O’ngo Culinary Tours Korean food tours and cooking classes in Seoul.

Tours and classes are taught by Korean food experts. Experience the culture through the cuisine. ongofood.com 010-6661-7769 Royal Asiatic Society Korea Branch raskb.com 02-763-9483 USO DMZ Tours affiliates.uso.org/korea 02-795-3028 WOW Corea Tour wowcoreatour.com 02-739-3337 Tattoos

Jetavana Meditation Center jetavanacenter@gmail.com 02-595-5115 Catholic Bomun 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Chunma 02-765-0870 Dongducheon 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Hannam International Church English, Italian, Spanish, French 02-793-2070 Hyewha-dong Catholic Church

02-764-0221 (press 6) Jinjob 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Keumchon 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Philippine Center Tagalog 02-765-0870 Pastral Center for Labor English, Vietnamese, Thai 02-924-2721 Salesio Labor Center Tagalog, Daelim 1 dong 02-765-0870 Sung-dong Social Welfare Center Tagalog 02-765-0870 Yoksam-dong Church 02-553-0801 Catholics in South Korea Facebook Group, Annamarie at sunshineamore25@gmail.com Islam Seoul Central Masjid 02-794-7307 Protestant Gwanglim Church 02-2056-5732 International Lutheran 02-794-6274 Jubilee Church 02-569-2293 Korean Rainbow Christian Fellowship

krcf.weebly.com Kumnan Church 02-490-7000 Myungsung Presbyterian 02-440-9000 New Philadelphia Church newphiladelphiachurch.com 02-706-2501 Onnuri Church 02-793-9686 Presbyterian Church of the Lord empcl.org 010-2266-6453 Somang Presbyterian 02-512-9191 Seoul Union Church 02-333-7393 Yoido Full Gospel Church 02-782-4851 Yongsan Baptist Church 02-796-0284 Community

An experience to remember...

Itaewon 116-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Tel: 02-790-7977

Samcheong-dong 31-1 Samcheong-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Tel: 02-730-7461 Dogok-dong 464 Dogok-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Tel: 02-574-4468

Business Hour : 11:30am - 10:30pm

www.mapletreehouse.co.kr

58 | 10 Magazine January 2012

Sunrat Tattoo Hongdae The guys behind the Inkbomb Tattoo Convention bring you old school tattoos, bright colors, and more. Open 1 - 9 pm.

2F Brotherworld, 325-25 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul. sunrattattoo.com 02-336-5698 Beauty

Jay’s Hairdressing Itaewon Stylists trained at Tony&Guy and Vidal Sassoon Academy bring out the best in your hair. 2F 126-17 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. 070-4227-6158 Marie&M Gangnam The right haircut makes all the difference! All staff at this salon are qualified by Vidal Sassoon.

02-512-3798 Tony&Guy Whether it’s a cut, highlight, low light, or hair spa that you want, you’re guaranteed to get professional service from the English-speaking stylists at Toni & Guy. Near Hongik University.

02-338-2773 Cafes

Caffé Bene Coffee, gelatos, and waffles are on the menu at the 400 Caffé Bene outlets across Korea. caffebene.co.kr

02-3438-6888 Massage

Healing Hands Massage Studio healinghands.co.kr 070-7504-8090 Religious

Buddhist Seoul International Zen Center seoulzen.org 02-900-4326 Vairocana International Buddhist Meditation Center 02-735-5347

Brazilians in Seoul Also known as Brasileiros em Seul, this group meets up on the 3rd Tuesday of each month. alocoreia@gmail.com 010-9631-2133 Gangnam Hills Toastmasters Club Helping you develop oral communication and leadership skills. koreatraining@ yahoo.com 010-8779-1969 Republicans Abroad Monthly meetings, events, and lectures for supporters of the USA Republican Party. kmohay@hotmail.com 010-8688-9810 Gourmet Foods

High Street Market Itaewon Freshbaked bread, choice beef cuts, imported cheese, and value-for-money wines, and all in one shop. 737-24 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu.

02-790-5450 Museums

Gahoe Museum gahoemuseum.org 02-741-0466 World Jewelry Museum wjmuseum.com 02-730-1610 Kimchi Field Museum kimchimuseum.co.kr 02-6002-6456 Kyung-in Museum of Fine Art Kyunginart.co.kr 02-733-4448 Leeum Samsung Museum of Art leeum.org 02-2014-6901 Museum of Korean Traditional Music ncktpa.go.kr 02-580-3130 National Folk Museum nfm.go.kr 02-3704-3114 National Museum of Korea museum.go.kr 02-2077-9000 National Palace Museum of Korea gogung.go.kr 02-3701-7500 Seoul Art Center sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Seoul Museum of Art seoulmoa.seoul.go.kr 02-120 Seoul National Science Museum ssm.go.kr 02-3668-2200 War Memorial warmemo.or.kr 02-709-3139

GANGWON CALENDAR Art Through January 13th Paintings of Paintings Art often inspires more art. This exhibition features works of art that spoof famous paintings.

Ilhyun Art Museum in Yangyang-gun. 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W2,000, Teens W1,500. ilhyunmuseum.or.kr 033670-8450 Through January 24th Sarangbang: Joseon Interior Design In the Joseon Dynasty, a sarangbang was a reception room for male guests.

This Chuncheon National Museum exhibit features objects used in a sarangbang. Weekdays 9 am – 6 pm, weekend 9 am – 7 pm. Free. chuncheon. museum.go.kr 033-260-1500

Performance

Education & Conferences Ongoing Pottery Making Class Professional potters teach how to fire pottery by hand. Your pottery will be shipped to you after you return home. Seokbong Ceramic Museum in Sokcho. Closed Mon. 9 am – 6 pm (3 hours per lesson).

W15,000. dogong.net 033-638-7711

Education & Conferences January 15th 2012 International “Nude” Marathon Strip down to your shorts (and shirt for women) for a 5 and 10k run. Depart from Daegwallyeong Doam Middle School at 10:30 am. W10,000 - W30,000. Register by January 3rd. run1080.com 042-638-1080

Family & Community

gangwon PROVINCE

December 31st Jeongdongjin Sunset Festival Spend the final moments of 2011 at Jeongdongjin Hourglass Park in Gangneung. gntour.go.kr 033-640-5127

Hotel Inter-Burgo Wonju wonju.inter-burgo.com 033-766-8000 W Hotel Wonju w-hotel.co.kr 033-742-5454

December 31st - January 8th

Hotels/Accommodations

Foreigner Assistance Chuncheon Online Info tour.chuncheon.go.kr/eng

Medical Services Gangwon National University Hospital Chuncheon knuh.or.kr/html/index.asp

033-258-2000 Gangnam Hospital Chuncheon ekangnam.co.kr 033-240-7000 Hyundai Animal Clinic Chuncheon dog7582.co.kr 033-256-7582 Ye Dental Clinic Chuncheon ccye.co.kr 033-262-2078

Inner Seorak Riverside Festival At this festival, you can enjoy a topspinning game, ice fishing, sledding, ice soccer, and more. Near the river in Bukmyeon, Inje-gun. www.열목어축제.kr 033-462-2010 January 7th - 29th Hwacheon Ice Fishing Festival The festival staff have cut holes through the ice for you, but it’s up to you to grab the pole and see if the fish will take the bait. There are also some pretty impressive ice sculptures to help you while away the time between fishing sessions. Hwacheon-gun. narafestival.com 1688-3005 January 13th - 21st Daegwallyeong Snow Festival Admire the ice sculptures and play a variety of folk games. Chahang River & Doam Middle School in Daegwallyeongmyeon, Pyeongchang-gun. snowfestival.net 033-336-6112 January 17th - February 5th Taebaek Mountain Snow Festival Enjoy the snow while it’s here! This festival gives you plenty of chances to do just that with a parade, ice sculpture exhibit, huge snowmen, and an ice slide. Test your Arctic survival skills in the Polar Bear Run. Downtown Taebaek and Taebaek Mountain Provincial Park. festival.taebaek.go.kr 033-550-2085

Museums Byeolmaru Observatory Yeongwol yao.or.kr 033-374-7460 Chuncheon Animation Museum animationmuseum.com 033-245-6444 Chuncheon Makguksu Museum makguksumuseum.com 033-250-4134 Forest Art Museum Hoengseong jjsoup.com 033-342-6833 Haslla Art World Gangneung haslla.kr 033-644-9411 Ilhyun Art Museum Yangyang ilhyunmuseum.or.kr 033-670-8450 Institute of Traditional Korean Cooking Pyeongchang ktfce.com/ktfce.pdf 033-333-1012 Joseon Folk Painting Museum Yeongwol minhwa.co.kr 033-375-6100 Marisorigol Musical Instrument Museum Hongcheon great.go.kr 033-430-2016 Mooee Arts Center Pyeongchang mooee.co.kr 033-335-6700 Sokbong Ceramic Museum Sokcho dogong.net 033-638-7711 Sokcho Museum Sokcho sokchomuse.go.kr 033-639-2977 Teddy Bear Farm Sokcho teddyfarm.net 033-636-3680 Wonju Hanji Museum Wonju wjhanji.co.kr 033-734-4739

To list an event, e-mail coordinator@10magazine.asia 10 Magazine January 2012 | 59

Pyeongchang Trout Festival Through February 5th Family Get outside this winter and catch your own dinner at the Pyeongchang Trout Festival.

Brrrr! It’s cold out there. But don’t let the chill in the air force you into hibernation all winter. Korea offers several winter festivals worth crawling out from under the covers for this season. One such festival is the Pyeongchang Trout Festival.

This month-long ice fishing extravaganza is a perfect excuse to bundle up and get outside. There’s so much to do that you could easily spend all day at the festival: ice fishing, sledding, ice skating, ATV rides, and more.

The festival is located right across the street from the bus terminal, and all the activities are in the same vicinity. You can buy ice fishing equipment there and pay a small fee to gain access to the river where dozens of holes are already cut into the ice. If you’re looking for a more comfortable day of fishing then you can pay extra for chairs and a tent to shield you from the cold. However you fish, the experience is enjoyable.

If you get too cold, you can escape to the heated indoor facility for coffee and snacks. Restaurant tents serving various kinds of seafood aren’t far from the river. A ticket just for ice fishing costs W10,000, but an all-inclusive day pass will cost you W20,000. If you just want to go sledding, it’s W5,000. An ATV ride goes for W10,000.

Ge t t i n g There

Seoul and other big cities have bus service to Jinbu Terminal in Pyeongchang-gun. The festival is only a 5-minute walk from the terminal. festival700.or.kr 033-336-4000 Words and shots by Ch elsi e Koz era

GANGWON

Ongoing The Manic Show: Comedy and Magic Magician Choi Hyeon-u and comedian Jo Won-seok offer a show that is full of magic tricks and gags. Gangwon Tourist Pension in Jeongsun. 7 pm. Every Saturday and Sunday. W20,000. ticket.interpark.com 033-592-5942

January 28th - February 5th Inje Icefish Festival “Icefish” sounds more romantic than “smelt,” the other name for the silver fish that gathers in shoals under the ice sheet at Soyang Lake in Inje-gun. injefestival.co.kr 033-461-0373

GYEONGGI discovery

Getting It On in Yeongtong-dong Suwon’s Hippest Neighborhood

Words by Conor O’Re i lly, shots by B e n H ay n es

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1 Yeongtong’s main drag, filled with food, drink, and plenty of noraebangs.

2 A couple enjoying beer and fries at Avec Des Frites. 3 The quality homebrews on tap at The Queen’s Head pair well with the pizza cooked in the brick oven. 4 The beautiful interior at Grotto includes this water drop-shaped table and centerpiece. 5 The storefront at Grotto, a great place to mingle with friends and enjoy wine and Western-style food, entrees and hors d’oeurves.

60 | 10 Magazine January 2012

eongtong-dong is an impressive sight. Mostly a residential area with high-rise apartment complexes, at first you could be forgiven for thinking there’s not really much to see. However, in the centre of the relative calm and cohesion of this apartment conurbation is something quite different.

Less than twenty years old, this district on the outskirts of Suwon is dominated by many tall buildings packed densely together in the centre of this small dong (동, neighborhood). Recognisable by 24-hour flashing neon, the area is one of the top night spots in Suwon. Here a mix of university students, upwardly mobile Koreans and expats all converge to socialise seven nights a week. The diversity of local residents and visitors has encouraged the opening of a wide variety of venues where you can relax and let your hair down.

The very centre of Yeongtong is unmistakable: tall buildings, loud music blaring into the street, and flashing lights. There is a plethora of tuna restaurants, noraebang, hofs, izakaya, and the usual list of franchised restaurants and coffee shops seemingly found everywhere, and all are packed within easy stumbling distance of each other.

But it’s on the outskirts where Yeongtong offers its best fare. Behind the main drag of brightly lit, late-night businesses sits Half Moon Park (반달공원), a placid local park that stands in sharp contrast to the streets nearby. Cut through here to the far side and discover quiet coffee shops such as Hello Stranger where they roast fresh coffee daily, or Two Spoons of Sugar (설탕2스푼), serving an excellent selection of freshly made juices. Both are modern, cosy, and tastefully designed.

Around the corner from both of these is Avec Des Frites, a small eatery specialising in, well, frites, or crispy French fries cut freshly from potatoes and served with your choice of a wide selection of sauces (although you can never go wrong with ketchup). Take your time to relax in this funky graffiti-walled spot that is popular with the many students who frequent it. For added relaxation, enjoy a cold European beer avec des frites.

On the far side of Half Moon Park is a new café/wine bar named Grotto. Recently opened with an extensive and affordable wine list, this place is fast becoming popular with both Koreans and expats as it offers a welcome alternative to the established bar and noraebang scene. If a full bottle is beyond you, glasses of house wine are generous, and the sangria, while a little watery at times, is also liberally served.

Walking back towards the main drag, you’ll pass by a nondescript grey concrete building which is just before KFC. Enter this building and take the elevator to the fifth floor to find The Queen’s Head, a microbrewery making German-styled beers and a wood-fired pizza oven. While the beer is good, the surroundings are especially refreshing.

With high ceilings, big wood tables and ornate partitions, The Queen’s Head has a unique traditional feel to it, as well as smoking and nonsmoking sections.

Yeongtong is adding new and finer food and drink locations on a weekly basis, so be sure to keep exploring to find more worthwhile places to visit.

M ore Ve n u e I n fo

Ge t t i n g There

Hello Stranger blog.naver.com/h_stranger 031-273-8808 Two Spoons of Sugar 031-273-2923 Avec Des Frites blog.naver.com/semipga 010-6542-6523 (limited English) Grotto 010-8702-6772 (English spoken) The Queen’s Head 031-203-2669 (limited English)

Buses servicing Yeongtong include the M5107 from Seoul Station and the 5500 from Gangnam. By rail, disembark at Suwon Station and transfer to the 10, 10-5, or 37, which will bring you to the HomePlus at the entrance to the plaza.

GYEONGGI CALENDAR Through January 24th TV Commune Exhibit Starting this year, analogue TV will no longer be broadcast in Korea. The art work in this exhibit by 15 artists including Nam June Paik explores the effect TV has had on our lives. Nam June Paik Art Center in Yongin. 10 am - 7 pm. Closed every 2nd, 4th Mon. W4,000. njpartcenter.kr 031-201-8500 Epilogue: On the Border Exhibition Five artists who have returned from an international residency exhibit the results of their time abroad. Gyeonggi Museum of Modern Art in Ansan. Gongdan St. (line 4, exit 1) 10 am - 7 pm. No charge. gmoma.or.kr 031-481-7007 Through January 29th Beautiful Encounter: The Gifts of Collection 270 pieces of donated art works are exhibited. National Museum of Contemporary Art in Gwacheon. Seoul Grand Park Stn. (line 4, exit 4). 10 am - 5 pm. Closed Mon. No charge. moca.go.kr 02-2188-6000 Through March 4th A Journey Through Fairy Tale Pictures A picture book gallery, pop-up gallery, playground, and do-it-yourself book art are among the exciting activities prepared for young visitors. Seongnam Art Center.

Imae St. (Bundang line, exit 1). 10 am - 6 pm. W12,000. snart.or.kr 1688-1187 Through March 11th Edward Curtis: Sacred Legacy Edward Curtis was a photographer of the American West most famous for his monumental, if flawed, photo history of Native Americans called The North American Indian. See his work at the Gyeonggi Arts Center in Suwon. Suwon Stn. (line 1, ex. 4). 11 am - 7 pm. W6,000. curtis.kr 031-230-3440

Concerts January 14th KBS Symphony Orchestra: New Year’s Concert Icheon Art Hall. 7 pm. W20,000 - 50,000. artic.or.kr 031-644-2100 Seoul Electronic Music Festival The largest indoor festival taking place this winter. Artists include Above & Beyond, Crystal Castles, Idiotape, Mongoose and more. KINTEX in Ilsan. Daewha Stn. (line 3, exit 2). 3 pm. W121,000. semf.co.kr January 20th Vienna Strauss Festival Orchestra: New Year’s Concert The conductor of the Vienna Strauss Festival Orchestra is known for being able to conduct and play violin at the same time. Yongin Women’s Hall. 7:30 pm. W40,000 60,000. art.yonginsi.net 031-324-8994 January 28th Opera Carmen: Gala Concert Yongin Women’s Hall. 11 am. W5,000. art.yonginsi.net 031-324-8994

Education & Conference Through January 21st Science Camp: STEAM This camp is a chance for children to learn about science, technology, engineering, and mathematics as they play. Gwacheon National Science Museum near Seoul Grand Park Stn. (line 4, ex. 5) One day W35,000, 3 days and 2 nights W210,000. kastec.kr 1599-4155 Through February 26th Tutankhamun: His Tomb and His Treasures This exhibition of Egyptian pharaoh Tutankhamun and his treasures

includes over 13,000 relics. Gwacheon National Science Museum. Seoul Grand Park Stn. (line 4, ex. 5). 9:30 am - 6:30 pm. Closed Mon. W12,000. tutkorea.com 02-3677-1435

Family & Community Through February 9th Hello Kitty Castle Hello Kitty fans can jump on the banana bounce, whoosh down the rides, or check out the exhibition. 10 am - 6 pm. W15,000.

KINTEX in Ilsan. Daewha Stn. (line 3, ex. 2). kittycastle.co.kr 02-552-8114

Sport & Fitness Ongoing Dongnam Spopia Ice Rink Open all year. Don’t forget your gloves.

Yeonsu-dong, Incheon. 10 am - 8 pm.

Entrance fee W5,000. Skate rental W4,000. spopia.co.kr 032-814-1331

! n o w u S n i w o N NEW LOCATION

January 29th Korea Gold Marathon 10k, half, full marathon to depart from Hanam Misari Marine Stadium at 10 am. W60,000.

Register by January 12th. run1080.com 042-638-1080

Shoe Cake House

NH Bank

gyeongGI province Religious Services

Grace & Truth Church Anyang, Ansan, and Suwon Sunday 9:30 am, 11 am, 1 pm, grace-truth.org 031-443-3731 Dongsan Church Ansan Sunday 11:30 am, 010-2910-7809 Restaurants

Cafe Nicolia Bucheon European-style café and wine bar. cafenicolia.com

032-329-0526 La Mia Cucina Ilsan The kitchen is always open at this English-friendly Italian pub.

7 pm – 4 am.

010-2327-8882 First Nepal Restaurant Incheon firstnepal.com 032-525-8771

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The Big Chill Suwon Chill out in a big way with the friendly crowd while enjoying a game of pool, darts, or wii. Opens 8 pm on Wed – Sat and 4 pm on Sun. Facebook group, edwardjorgensen@gmail.com Dublin Bar Bundang Open mic every Wednesday at 9 pm 031-708-7942 Jukjeon Gecko’s Yongin Bundang and Yongin expats should be ecstatic to know that the famous Gecko’s chain is expanding south. geckosterrace.com

031-262-9974 The Park Bucheon There are three kinds of draft beer and cocktails for your thirst, Western food for your hunger, and four LCD TVs for your sports fixation. Jung-dong in Bucheon.

Facebook group 010-3136-0153 Rhythm & Booze Bucheon Open mic nights, sports, concerts, and parties make this a favorite of Bucheon’s expats.

Behind the CGV in Jung-dong. Open at 4 pm on Mon – Fri, 11 am on weekends.

Facebook group 032-323-0161 West Island Ilsan Have a chat with the friendly staff or kick back and watch the fire show on Fri and Sat. 6 pm – 5 am. club.cyworld.com/westisland

031-917-2225 Clubs

Club Psycho Anyang General open mic every 3rd Friday of the month at 11pm. bcmusicworld.com 010-7754-0409

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Suwon Subway Station, Exit 1 Train Station Exit 5 6-1 Mesanro 2 ga Paldal gu Suwon Gyeonggi-do 031.253.7933 10 Magazine January 2012 | 61

CHUNGCHEONG CALENDAR disc ov er y

Art Through January 15th Leslie de Chavez: God Is Busy Through paintings, sculptures, installations, and drawings, young artist Leslie from the Philippines views the present and future of society. Arario Gallery in Cheonan.

W3,000. 11 am - 7 pm. Closed Mon. arariogallery.co.kr 041-551-5100 Through February 12th Hwayang Lecture Hall and Mandong Tomb Interested in Confucianism?

Check out items related to famous Confucian scholar Song Si-yeol of the Joseon Dynesty. Cheongju National Museum. cjmuseum.org 043-229-6300

Basking in the Yuseong Hot Springs

CHUNGCHEONG

Although several spas are based at the Yuseong hot springs, for the original experience the Yuseong Hotel is a must-see.

Centuries ago, as the story goes, a soldier wounded in a campaign between Silla and Baekje returned to his village in Yuseong. His mother went out to look for medicine and saw a white crane bathing its damaged wing in melted snow. She had her son imitate the actions of the crane and he recovered miraculously—through the powers of the hot spring.

These days, the Yuseong hot springs (유성온천) have about as many hotels as Onyang, further north in the province. The Riviera and Hongin hotel spas are acclaimed, but the original is the Yuseong Hotel (built in 1915 and expanded in 1966 and 1992).

The main pool of the hotel spa is around 42°C, while the hottest is an incendiary 45°C. Options include a medicinal herb bath, a seaweed bath, and a chlorophyll-colored waterfall pool.

There’s also a Finnish sauna hidden away behind the aisles of scrubbing stalls.

Regulars gravitate to the outside area shielded by a vine encrusted rock wall. It’s here that you’ll find the coldest pool, with an icy waterfall that will turn your brains to applesauce.

A pitfall to watch out for is the weekend crowds, as tour buses from Gyeryeong Mountain often unload at the spa. Thankfully, children are consigned to a long narrow pool near the entrance.

If you’re looking for a free sample, there’s an open air foot bathing pool on the park strip that extends eastward from Yuseong Hotel. Also note that restaurants all around Yuseong offer discount coupons for hot spring spas.

Ge t t i n g There

Yuseong Hotel is a 10-minute walk from the Yuseong Intercity Bus Terminal and a bit farther from the Yuseong Geumho Express Bus Terminal. From elsewhere in Daejeon, take 10 T i p the subway to Yuseong Hot Spring Station (유성온천역). For our feature article on hot 5 am - 10 pm. W5,000 for adults. yousunghotel.com Words by M at t h ew C rawford springs, see 042-820-0100 p. 16.

Through February 19th The Beautiful Journey Pieces by acclaimed Korean painter Lee Ung-no and sculptor Mun Sin, two artists who helped make contemporary Korean art into what it is today. Ungno Lee Museum of Art. Daejeon. 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. W500 ungnolee.daejeon.go.kr 042-602-3275 Through February 26th The Modern Korean Temple Bell Korean Buddhist temple bells were made in the Japanese style under Japanese colonial rule, but recently there have been efforts to recover the original style of making the bells. Jincheon Bell Museum. jincheon.go.kr 043-539-3847

Performances January 5th and 8th Her Space Holiday Concert Marc Bianchi’s one-man-band Her Space Holiday features intricate string arrangements, analog synth patterns, lush guitar-like drones and tasteful drum programming. Opening band Knesset’s songwriting is also accessible and upbeat. 1/5 Dolce Bar in Cheonan. 1/8 Cantina in Daejeon. supercolorsuper.com 010-8546-8381 January 27th - 28th Sachoom: Just Feel the Dance This non-verbal dance show has toured at the Edinburgh Festival and is on an open run in Seoul. Bongseo Hall, Cheonan.

7:30, 3, and 6 pm. W20,000 - W50,000. asiamunhwa.com 1644-9289

Family & Community January 14th - 22nd Uirimji Winter Festival One of the reasons this festival is held is to preserve the traditions of the past, including folk plays and history. Uirimji Lake in Jecheon. 043-641-4870

Education & Conference Through January 8th Playing with Flour Activity Zone Children learn to be more creative as they get their hands into some flour. Activities include walking in flour, drawing, and baking bread. Hongju Center for the Performing Arts in Hongseong-gun. W20,000. ticket.interpark.com 041-631-3806 Through January 15th Playing with Dirt Activity Zone First flour, now dirt! Let your kids cut loose for a while: they can always clean up when they get home. Chungbuk Students Education & Culture Center in Cheongju. Closed Mon. 10:20 am - 4:30 pm. W10,000 W15,000 ticket.interpark.com 1544-1952 Through March 4th Kids Play Park 5-theme indoor playground including air bounce, Pororo

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world, and a bubble show. Daegu Exhibition & Convention Center (EXCO).

10 am - 6 pm. Adults W10,000, children W14,000. excodaegu.co.kr 053-601-5233

Sport & Fitness Ongoing Cheongju Ice Rink Open all year long.

Don’t forget to bring gloves, as they’re required for entrance. 514 Sachang-dong, Heungdeok-gu, Cheongju. W5,000.

Skate rental is W3,000. 9 am - 7 pm. cheongju-icerink.com 043-266-1717 January 15th The 8th Jaecheon Urimji Nude Marathon 5k and 10k marathon to depart from Jaecheon Urimji Shimto Square at 10 am. W10,000. Register by January 4th. jecheonmarathon.net 043-643-6677

CHUNGCHEONG PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance Daejeon International Community Center dicc.or.kr 042-223-0789 Daejeon jungwonh@hotmail.com

Classes Yegok Natural Dye Workshop Okcheon-gun Dye clothing or make natural soap. yegok.co.kr 043-733-0978

Hotels/Accommodations New Korea Hotel Asan 041-542-8151 Onyang Hot Spring Hotel Asan 041-545-2141 Cheonan Central Hotel Cheonan 041-564-9100 Yuseong Hotel Daejeon 042-822-9591 The Sky Blue Bird Seosan 011-382-1862 Golden Wave Taean 041-675-2008

Museums Alcohol Museum: Liquorium Chungju liquorium.com 043-855-7333 Gonam Shell Mound Museum Taean-gun Anmyeon Island museum.taean.go.kr 041-670-2337 Jincheon Bell Museum Jincheon-gun jincheonbell.net 043-539-3850 Korea Traditional Architecture Museum Yesan-gun English site: ktam.or.kr 041-337-5877

Medical Services Konyang International Health Care Center Daejeon kihcc.kyuh.co.kr 042-600-9978 Sun Hospital Daejeon 042-220-8000

Restaurants/Supermarkets Gasan Korean, Cheonan 041-561-9500 Spain House Spanish, Cheonan

041-571-7474 Olive Farms Buffet, Cheongju

043-215-3311

Bars/Lounges/Pubs Rolling Stones Cheonan 041-562-9824 MJ Cheongju “MJ Bar” on Facebook.

043-273-8366 Road King Cheongju 010-8301-5936 Blue Moon Cheongwon 043-285-0399 Brickhouse Sports Bar & Grill Daejeon “The Daejeon Brickhouse” on Facebook,

010-9867-0921 J-Rock Daejeon 010-4564-7721 Santa Claus Daejeon “Santa Claus 2008” on Facebook, 042-825-5500 The Shisha House Daejeon “Welcome to the Shisha House” on Facebook.

042-825-4157 042-471-3373 Sponge Daejeon

Live Music Barker’s Live Bar Gyeryong

042-841-0470 Club In Sky 2 Daejeon 042-223-7117

JEOLLA CALENDAR Art Through January 8th Exhibition of Preserved Cultural Assets Paper, Rock, Scissors is a common game in Korea, but what did scissors look like in the Goryeo and Joseon Dynasties? The Jeonju National Museum has the answer.

9 am – 6 pm. Closed Monday. Free. jeonju.museum.go.kr 063-223-5651 Through January 29th Faces of Jeonbuk People This exhibition consists the portraits of six people who were born or lived in Jeonbuk. Jeonju National Museum.

9 am – 6 pm. Closed Monday. Free. jeonju.museum.go.kr 063-223-5651 Ha Jeong-ung “Light” Exhibit Sixty pieces by Ha Jeong-ung and six other artists will be exhibited at the Gwangju Museum of Art. 9 am – 6 pm. Adults W500, teens W300, children W200. artmuse.gwangju.go.kr 062-510-0149 Through February 12th Examinations of the Ancients Head to the Jeonju National Museum to see exam papers and certificates of the Gwageo, the highest-level state examination used to recruit officials during the Goryeo and Joseon Dynasties. 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Monday. Free. jeonju.museum.go.kr 063-223-5651 Through February 19th The Ink of South Jeolla: 100 Years of Korean Painting Learn about the traditions of South Jeolla paintings and what can be done to help the art scene develop further. Jeonju National Museum.

9 am – 6 pm. Closed Monday. Free. jeonju.museum.go.kr 063-223-5651 Through February 26th National Geographic: Life and Nature World-famous American magazine National Geographic is holding an exhibition at the Gwangju Culture and Art Center. 10 am - 7 pm. W6,000 W10,000. art.gjcity.net 062-510-925

Ongoing Sinpan Norum: 12 Acts This performance, held the fourth Saturday of each month at 4 pm, combines elements of pansori, gutpan, changgeuk, and other traditional Korean art forms. Yewondang at National Center for Korean Folk Performing Area in Namwon. ntmc.go.kr 063-620-2324 Gugak Saturday Performance The South Jeolla Provincial Gugak Troupe has performed Korean classical music more than 1,300 times since 1986. Hear them each Saturday at Mokpo Citizen’s Culture and Athletic Center. 5 pm.

W5,000. art.mokpo.go.kr 061-270-8375 January 7th Jeonbuk National University Choir Concert Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 140 min. 7 pm. W10,000. sori21.co.kr 063-270-8000 January 12th Jeonju Symphony Orchestra Concert Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 7:30 pm. W7,000 - W10,000. sori21.co.kr 063-270-8000 January 14th Hanaim Orchestra Concert The program consists of Beethoven’s Egmont Overture and Schubert’s Symphony No. 8 Unfinished in B minor and Symphonie Espagnole in D minor.

Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 90 min. 7 pm. sori21.co.kr 063-270-8000

e di t or’ s pick

Sori Arts Center New Year Concert Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 7 pm. sori21.co.kr 063-270-8000 January 20th Vienna Boys Choir The Vienna Boys’ Choir, one of the best-known boys’ choirs in the world, will visit Jeonju on their world tour. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 110min. 7:30 pm. W40,000 W70,000. sori21.co.kr 063-270-8000 January 28th - 29th Insooni Concert: The Fantasia Get ready to give a standing ovation at this acclaimed R&B diva’s concert.

Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 120 min. 28th: 7 pm. 29th: 6 pm. W70,000 W110,000. sori21.co.kr 063-270-8000

Family & Community Through January 15th “Fun, Magic, Art” Exhibition The Mokpo Culture and Art Center will exhibit 52 pieces of trompe-l’oeil, an art technique that uses extremely realistic imagery to create the optical illusion that the depicted objects appear in three dimensions. Mokpo Culture and Art Center. 10:30 pm - 6 pm. W10,000. art.mokpo.go.kr 061-270-8484 Through January 29th Boseong Green Tea Light Festival While it’s a bit too cold to expect much cultivation at the Boseong Green Tea Plantation, the beautiful lights strung up on the fields give you another reason to go. Boseong-gun, Jeollanam-do. boseong.go.kr 061-850-5212 Through February 5th “Surisuri Misuri” Moving Art Exhibition This 3D modern art exhibition is great for children and adults. Gwangju Museum of Art. 9 am – 6 pm. Adults W500, teens W300, children W200. artmuse.gwangju.go.kr 062-510-0149 Through February 19th Air Kids Park This is a playground where children can jump, roll and swim.

There are five sections: giant slides, bounce zone, bounce ball play, indoor water boats and bounce playground. Kim Daejung Convention Center in Gwangju.

10 am - 6 pm. Adults W10,000, kids W12,000. kdjcenter.or.kr 062-611-2000 January 13th - 17th Muju Ice Festival At this festival, not only can you see ice sculptures and play a variety of folk games, but also enjoy ice sledding and ice fishing. Around the Namdaecheon Stream in Muju-eup, Muju-gun, Jeonbuk. tour.muju.go.kr 063-320-5703

Sport & Fitness Ongoing Hwasan Ice Rink Get out on the ice!

Be sure to bring your own gloves. San 45, Junghwasan-dong 2-ga, Wansangu, Jeonju. 9 am - 6 pm. Entrance fee W3,000. Skate rental W2,000. jjss.or.kr 063-239-2578 February 5th Jungnamjin Jangheung National Marathon 5k, 10k, half, and full marathon to depart from Cheonbyeon Sports Park at 10 am. W30,000.

Register by January 8th. jeongnamjin. marathonlife.net 061-864-1188

Gwangju Racing Park Through Febuary 26th Family Welcome to the world of cars! Families will have a blast at the Gwangju Racing Park, the biggest indoor playground in Korea. The park provides children a safe and warm place to have fun and stay active in the cold weather. With seven play zones, there is plenty to keep you and your kids entertained: an electric kart zone, a family hiking zone, a cycling zone with various types of bicycles, a bounce slide zone, a kids’ zone especially for toddlers, a model car racing zone, and a simulation game zone where you can play car and underwater boat games in 3D. Kim Daejung Convention Center in Gwangju. Adults W10,000, children W15,000. racing-park.co.kr 02-1688-7638 Words by J e ssica L ee

Hotels/Accommodations

JEOLLA PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance Gwangju International Center gic.or.kr 062-226-2733 Gwangju Blog gwangjublog.com Inside Jeonju insidejeonju.com The Jeonju Hub thejeonjuhub.com

Religious Services Antioch Presbyterian Church Jeonju andiok.kr 063-274-3228 Iri Joongang Church Iksan 0 63-851-4311 Musang Temple Muan-gun 042-841-6084

Museums Gochang Dolmen Museum 9 am – 5 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, teens W2,000, children W1,000. gcdolmen.go.kr 063-560-2576 Iksan Jewel Museum 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. jewelmuseum.go.kr 063-859-4641 Jeonju Oriental Medicine Cultural Center 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. hanbangcenter.com 063-232-2500 Jeonju Traditional Alcohol Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Free. urisul.net 063-287-6305 Jeonju Traditional Culture Center jt.or.kr 063-280-7045 Mokpo Ceramic Livingware Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. doja.mokpo.go.kr 0 61-270-8480 Mokpo Natural Museum 9 am – 6 pm.

Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. museum.mokpo.go.kr 061-274-3655

Gwangju Youth Hostel 062-943-4378 Ramada Plaza Gwangju ramadagwangju.com 062-717-7000

Radio TBS eFM Gwangju FM 98.7 US Armed Forces Network Gunsan AM 1440/FM 88.5 Gwangju FM 88.5

Restaurants/Supermarkets First Nepal Restaurant firstnepal.com 062-225-8771 Tequilaz Gwangju’s first Mexican cantina serves up your south-of-the-border favorites with magical margaritas and, of course, killer tequilas. tequilaz.com Underground Grocers Gwangju This foreigner-run food shop has those hardto-find cheeses, taco shells and other delicacies you crave.

062-232-2626

Live Music Venues Bars/Lounges/Pubs Art & Travel Cafe Jeonju Open mic nights every Wednesday from 9 pm.

Facebook group, 011-9437-0208 Deepin Jeonju Popular expat bar with Texas Holdem on Sundays.

019-9646-1028 Led Zeppelin Art Space Jeonju Hosts underground bands both expat and Korean. cafe.daum.net/k250073

018-607-6321 Radio Star Jeonju Under the 7-11 in Junghwasan-dong. 011-9444-9609 Speakeasy Gwangju The fun never stops at this fantastic bar owned and operated by honest Irishman Derrek Hannon.

010-4713-3825 San Antonio Latin Bistro Suncheon Suncheon surprises with this Latinthemed restaurant and bar. Facebook group, pyroz@hotmail.com 061-724-2234

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Performances

January 14th Kim Gyeong-ho Concert A great chance to catch rock star Kim Gyeongho. Chonbuk National University Cultural Center in Jeonju. 120 min. 4 & 7:30 pm.

W77,000 - W99,000. cnucc.chonbuk.ac.kr 063-270-2089

GYEONGSANG discovery resident band hits the stage and the crowd gets up on their feet—and the tables! The band plays a bizarre mix of older Korean pop songs, mainstream western (like Bon Jovi and “Macarena”), and a few tunes in Bulgarian and Russian. An evening in Hurshimchung Bräu is the perfect way to pick up the tempo after a relaxing day at the spa.

Ge t t i n g There :

Hurshimchung Spa and Bräu

137-7 Onchun-Dong, Dongnae-Gu, Busan.

A short walk from Oncheonjang Station (line 1, ex. 1). See 10mag.com/hurshimchung for a map.

Tel : 051-550-2100 H o u rs : 5:30 am – 10 pm daily E n t r a n ce fee : weekdays W8,000, weekends W10,000 R emember : Pay when you leave. No offensive tattoos or skin disease.

Refer to the website of Hotel Nongshim (hotelnongshim.com) for more information about the entire Hurchimchung complex.

Images provided by Hurshimchung and Bryce Weibley*

Soaking and Brewing at its Finest Wo r d s by Bryce Weible y

When it comes to hot springs in Busan, the historic district of Oncheonjang is the place to go (hence the name: oncheon means “hot spring”). Among dozens of decent local spas, the Hurshimchung complex stands out above the rest. This massive multi-purpose facility, connected to the Hotel Nongshim, is home to a spacious spa, a German-style brewhouse, and several restaurants.

GYEONGSANG

Hurshimchung Gr and S pa

Hurshimchung Br äu

Said to be the largest spa in Asia, the Hurshimchung Grand Spa takes the whole hot spring thing quite seriously. The great number of large pools, glass dome and high ceiling overhead, and open air section create a pleasant environment where you can always find some space for yourself. At Hurshimchung, the alkali spring water has the highest level of magnesium of any spa in Korea, which is said to make the skin smooth.

In addition to a wide range of regular pools at various temperatures, forty different seasonal bath types are available such as Chinese herbs, lavender, citrus, cherry, champagne, and pepper. A hot soak does wonders for aches and pains, and the massaging waterfall showers allow for specialized body treatment that will leave you feeling like a stick of melted butter. But when the fingers get wrinkly, it might be time to hit one of the cedar-scented saunas.

After all that relaxation, surely you’ll be ready to wet your whistle. Luckily, you won’t need to go far, as hot spring water isn’t the only bubbly liquid in vast supply here! The adjoining Hurshimchung Bräu pumps out 750 liters of its own freshly brewed beer every day for your drinking pleasure. The brew comes in three tasty varieties: Pils, Weizen, and Dunkel (W4,900 for 500 ml).

T he enor mous brewhouse is home to one of the most delightfully eclectic cultural mishmashes in Korea. Donning lederhosen, the friendly staff serve a lively c rowd of Korea n hi kers, busi nessmen, and families, peppered with the odd Russian sailor or amused English t e a ch e r. B u t t h e main spectacle starts when the Bulgarian

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* *

GYEONGSANG calendar Design & Fashion Through January 21st Design: Verner Panton Exhibition Featuring furniture by Verner Panton and others who have worked with design firm Vitra. Leeahn Gallery in Changwon.

Closed Sun. Mon - Sat 10 am - 6:30 pm. leeahngallery.com 055-287-2203

Art Through February 5th Karsh: The Master of Portrait Photography Karsh’s second exhibition in Korea presents photographs of significant 20th century figures such as Andy Warhol, Nelson Mandela, Marc Chagall, and Elizabeth Taylor. In addition to these portraits, there is also a section for hands and landscapes. 315 Art Center in Changwon. 10 am - 7 pm.

315art.net 055-286-0315 Through February 19th “Thinking of A Good House” Exhibition This exhibition is divided into three sections: Make Your Home, Picture Your Life, and Envision Your Garden. Clayarch Gimhae Art Gallery. 10 am - 6 pm.

Closed Mon. clayarch.org 055-340-7000 Through February 26th Bae Bien-u Exhibit This exhibition will highlight renowned photographer Bae Bien-u’s treatment of Korea’s beautiful scenery, including pine trees, oceans, and islands. Artsonje Museum in Gyeongju. Closed Mon. 10 am - 6 pm.

W5,000. artsonje.org 054-745-7075

Theater & Dance Ongoing Korean Music and Dance in Busan Performances take place every Saturday at the National Gugak Center in Busan.

4 pm. W8,000. busan.gugak.go.kr 051-811-0040

Through Februry 12th Miss Saigon: The Musical First premiering in London in the 1980s, Miss Saigon rapidly became one of the most beloved musicals in the world. In Korean.

Ulsan Culture Art Center. Closed Mon. Mon - Fri 7:30 pm, Sat 3 & 7:30 pm, Sun 6:30 pm. W50,000 - W120,000. ucac.or.kr 1599-1980

Concerts January 6th Daegu Symphony Orchestra New Year Concert Featuring Rossini’s Barber of Seville Overture, Tchaikovsky’s 1812 Overture in Eb Major, and Strauss Jr.’s Blue Danube Waltz. Daegu Culture and Arts Center. 7:30 pm. Adults W10,000, students W5,000. artcenter.daegu.go.kr 053-606-6192 Her Space Holiday in Concert Marc Bianchi’s one man band Her Space Holiday features intricate string arrangements, analog synth patterns, lush guitar-like drones and tasteful drum programming. Opening band Knesset’s

January 18th New Year’s Concert with Top Korean Vocalists Join this invigorating New Year’s concert with Gang Hye-jeong, Seo Hwal-lan, Seo Jeong-hak, and Ryu Jeong-pil. Hyundai Arts Center in Ulsan.

8 pm. W20,000 - W55,000. hyundaiartscenter.co.kr 052-235-2117 January 27th Dan Deacon in Korea Indie electronic musician Dan Deacon’s songs are bursting at the seams with wild sounds and an almost-OCD attention to detail.

Vinyl Underground in Busan. 10 pm.

W18,000 presale, W25,000 at the door. supercolorsuper.com

Family & Community Through January 29th Bugok Hawaii Ice World Festival When you can’t beat the cold, meet it head on. At this exciting wintry world, explore massive ice sculptures, a chilly ice maze, an igloo, snow sledding, and a snow flower exhibit. Bugok Hawaii in Bugok-myeon, Changnyeong-gun. Weekdays and holidays 9:30 am - 6:30 pm, weekends 9:30 am - 7 pm. bugokhawaii.co.kr 055-536-6331 December 31st - January 1st Busan New Year Festival Koreans ring a bell instead of dropping a ball as they celebrate the New Year. Busanites can head to Yongdusan Park and the Haeundae beach area for the festivities. english.busan.go.kr 051-888-3396 Homitgot New Year Festival Enjoy the beautiful sunrise and indulge in free tteokguk (떡국, rice cake soup). Daebo-myeon, Pohang. sunrise.ipohang.org 054-270-2254 Yeongdeok “Hope!” Sunrise Festival Make a wish as you take part in a New Year’s festival chock-full of events.

Samsa Marine Park in Yeongdeok-gun.

Free. festival.yd.go.kr January 7th Geojedo Penguin Swimming Festival See how much of a man (or woman) you are in the cold winter waves. Deokpo Beach in Geoje City. 11 am. W10,000.

Register online at goejepenguin.co.kr 055-639-4404

Sports & Fitness Ongoing Pohang Ice Rink The only ice rink in Pohang, with restaurants and a snack bar. 1589-1 Jangseong-dong, Buk-gu, Pohang.10 am - 6:30 pm. Entrance fee W4,500, skate rental W3,500. pohangicerink.com 054-242-0091 Susung Ice Rink Open throughout the year. Be sure to bring gloves. Stop by the snack bar if you get hungry while you skate. 725 Sang-dong, Suseong-gu, Daegu. Weekdays: 10 am - 5 pm, weekends: 10 am - 7 pm. Entrance fee W5,000, skate rental W3,000. susungicerink.com 053-765-1300 February 5th 2012 Junmahyup Ulsan Marathon 5k, 10k, and half marathon to depart from Ulsan Munsu Stadium at 10 am.

W10,000 - W30,000. Register by January 18th. run1080.com 042-638-1080 January 8th Busan Ilbo Polar Bear Swim Do you consider yourself athletic and fearless?

Participate in this swimming event held every year in the middle of winter.

Haeundae Beach in Busan. 9 am - 1 pm.

W20,000. bear.busan.com 051-461-4437

Register by February 13th. mapho.co.kr 010-526-9120

February 15th Green Growth Kumho River Marathon 5k, 10k, half, 30k, and full marathon to depart from Daegu Dongchon under the pedestrian overpass at 9 am. W10,000 - W20,000.

February 26th Milyang Arirang Marathon 5k, 10k, and half marathon to depart from Milyang Stadium at 10 am. W15,000 - W30,000. Sign up by January 8th. miryangmarathon.kr 055-356-6364

Gyeongsang Foreigner Assistance

Restaurants

Busan Foundation for Int’l Activities bfia.or.kr 051-668-7900 Geoje Foreign Resident Association gfra.net 055-687-9332 Ulsan Global Center 052-229-2810 Ulsan Online ulsanonline.com

Busan Ganga Indian Opposite Haeundae Beach. ganga.co.kr 051-740-6670 Gecko’s Western Perched on lovely Haeundae Beach at the Pale de CZ, you can get all of that authentic Western food you’re used to back home, and you’ll find bartenders who know how to mix a real margarita.

051-747-3069 Il Sole Italian Quality food with a great view of Haeundae Beach. 051-747-4253 Kebabistan Russian Uzbeki restaurant serving kebabs, soups and stews.

Busan Station.

051-581-4050

Radio Stations TBS eFM Busan FM 90.5 American Forces Network Jinhae AM 1512 / FM 88.5 Daegu AM 1080 / FM 88.5 Pohang AM 1512 Waegwan AM 1080 / FM 88.5

Medical Services Centum Eco Clinic Busan Reliable medical care from a doctor specializing in ENT, internal medicine and pediatrics.

Located in the shopping center of the Centum Park Apartments in Haeundaegu, Busan.

051-731-1522

Education Ayurveda Yoga Academy Certification course for would-be yoga teachers in Daegu. Sat 10 am – 7 pm.

Call Yatren at 011-9547-5181 Yoga Classes Each 1st and 3rd Sunday from 12:30 – 1:30 pm. Buy the Book Cafe in Daegu. megan.deutsch@gmail. com 010-7794-1218

Hotels/Accommodations 4 – 5 Star Hotels Busan Lotte Hotel 051-810-1000 Novotel Ambassador 051-743-1234 Seacloud 051-933-1000 Daegu Novotel Ambassador 053-664-1101 Hostels Busan Arpina 051-740-3228 Zen Backpackers 010-8722-1530

Bars/Lounges/Pubs Busan Aligote Wines, cheese platters, and excellent service. Haeundae. 6 pm – 3 am. aligote-busan.com 051-731-3322 Basement Open mic nights on Tuesdays and parties galore.

011-9294-2391 Fuzzy Navel Great drinks and great Mexican food as well. 011-1757-6349 The HQ Bar Kyungsung’s only foreignerowned bar with sports and dart games. busankart@yahoo.com Rock ‘n’ Roll House Western-style bar with darts and pool and a great view of Haeundae.

051-742-5553 Sosa Bar A cozy latin bar close to Pusan National University.

051-513-0070 Wolfhound The same classic food and drinks from the Seoul location, but right on Haeundae Beach.

051-746-7913 Daegu Ping Bar Great drinks, a pool table, and music upon request. Samdeok Catholic Church. 7 pm - 5 am. withhyk@hanmail.net 053-422-7708 Jinju Soundgarden Behind Gyeongsang National University. soundgarden. cyworld.com, zakkie@hanmail.net 055-753-2248, 010-6478-2248 (owner)

Live Music Venues Busan Club Interplay cafe.daum.net/ interplaycafe 051-517-4773 Daegu Club Heavy cafe.daum.net/clubheavy96

010-2338-1340 Gyeongju Club Metal Boys cafe.daum.net/ metalboys 011-9599-8370

Clubs Daegu Club That Located on the rodeo just down from the Samdok fire station. clubthat.co.kr 053-427-7171 Old Skool Hip hop bar great for dancing, socializing or drinking. “Old SkooL: Daegu Muzik Club Bar” on Facebook.

Busan Elune Lots of international acts.

Paradise Hotel 010-5525-4055 Maktum Club dancing, events, launching shows, sports parties. 9 pm – 6 am. maktum.co.kr, 051-742-0770 NEO Starface “Latin Club” Free salsa classes weekdays from 8 pm. Saturdays boast a live band and/or DJs. Haeundae. neostarface.com 051-746-1746 Vinyl Underground Delivers fresh breaks, house, funk, electro, tech house, hip hop. B2 Han La Building. 9 pm - 6 am.

051-628-0223

Religious Services Baekangro Church Busan 051-898-3740 Bujeon Church bujeon.org 051-807-3331 Catholic Center Busan bccenter.or.kr 051-441-6403 Hongbeopsa Temple 051-508-3470 Busan busanbuddhism.com/hannarae Hosanna Church Busan hosanna21.com 051-209-0191 Podowon Church Busan 051-333-3736 Shipyungro Church Busan spr.or.kr 051-220-0200 Sooyeongno Church Busan 051-740-4500 Pusan University of Foreign Studies Busan 051-640-3445 Islamic Mosque Busan busanislam.or.kr 051-518-9991 Okpo Joonang Presbyterian Geoje Island 010-2586-7520, 010-3873-1652 Sumgim Presbyterian Church Geoje Island sumgim.org 017-577-3096

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Miso II: Shilla, The Land of Gods This non-verbal performance illustrates the thousand-year history of Shilla with age-old Korean dance and music. The three acts touch upon the divine founding of Shilla, the love story of Seondeok and Yongchun, and the Silla Road. Expo Cultural Center of the Gyeongju World Culture Expo. 7 pm.

Closed Mon. W20,000 – W50,000. sillamiso.chongdong.com 054-740-3800

songwriting is very accessible and upbeat. Venue TBA. supercolorsuper. com 010-8546-8381

JEJU CALENDAR disc ov er y

Art Through January 3rd Jeju Pottery Culture Exhibition Jeju Culture Center. jejuculture.or.kr 010-9087-2953 Through January 29th Same Glances, Different Feeling Artists working in Jeju capture the same images in various ways. Jeju Museum of Art. 9 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. & Jan. 1st.

W1,000. jmoa.jeju.go.kr 064-710-4300 January 4th - 9th Photo Exhibition: The Wind and the Island Photos depicting scenes from daily life show off the beauty of Jeju Island. Jeju Culture Center. jejuculture.or.kr 010-5216-8662

Sport & Fitness January 3rd - 12th 2012 Youth Jeju Olle Road Walkaton Walk through Jeju Island and make great memories. Jeju Olle Road. ihwarang.or.kr 02-2235-2673

JEJU ISLAND Theme Park

January 10th - 14th 2011 Press Photographs Exhibit Catch some of the best photos of the year taken

by Jeju photojournalists. Jeju Culture Center. jejuculture.or.kr 010-6692-1039

Performances

Café Mulgogi Is a Great Catch The outstanding view and quiet charm bring visitors to this hard-to-find café.

Located in Daepyeong in Andeok Valley, Café Mulgogi (meaning “fish” in Korean) offers visitors a spectacular view of Mount Halla, Brother Island, and the farmland that surrounds it. But it’s not just the views that keep old customers coming back and new ones searching for this out-of-the-way spot.

Owner Lee Hye-young may be a petite woman of few words but she is definitely big into offering her customers a relaxing experience. Café Mulgogi’s interior consists of warehousestyle hanging lights, hardwood f loors, log tables, plastic chairs, and rock walkways that work together in an unexpected way to bring a sophisticated yet homey feeling to its patrons.

The four sitting areas—two open tables and two private-style floor sitting areas—each offer a different sense of tranquility, whether through bookshelves full of books and artwork, or ambient lighting and resting pillows. If the café is full inside, as is often the case on the weekends, there is outdoor seating that allows visitors to take in one of the most aesthetically pleasing views on the island while enjoying their drinks.

Beverages at the café consist of several types of coffees and teas—the Forest Berry and Honey Bush Garden teas are exceptional and highly recommended. Or you can opt to have a beer or wine with a side dish of tofu kimchi, cheese platter, or fish and sausage set. Everything about Café Mulgogi offers an air of sophistication and comfort. The teas are served in glass decanters (with the offer of free refills!) and the coffee is served in mugs you would expect to find in your mom’s own kitchen. Whether curled up inside or sipping wine outdoors, you’re sure to be hooked by this quaint café.

Ge t t i n g There

Daepyeong is located between Hwasun and Jungmun. Take 1132 south. After Hwasun turn right into Andeok Valley (sign points to Daepyeong). Go 3km and turn right when the road makes a T. 200m past this, look for the sign with the fish on the left. 804 Daepyeong-ri, Andeok-myeon, Seogwipo-si, Jeju. woojooinn@hanmail.net 070-8147-0804 Words and shots by M ary R ager- Su mm ers

66 | 10 Magazine January 2012

Ongoing Fanta-Stick: The Musical This comic music show draws upon the traditional Korean music called gugak and throws in some conteomporary touches. Jungmun Fanta-Stick theatre. 8 pm. W40,000 W50,000. ticket.interpark.com 064-739-7781 Jump In its second decade, this popular martial arts comic performance shows no signs of slowing. Halla Art Hall in Cheju Halla College. Tue - Fri 8 pm; Sat 4, 8 pm; Sun, holiday 8 pm. Closed Mon. W40,000 - W50,000. hijump.co.kr 064-749-0550

Kimnyoung Maze Park The challenge is the thrill of the search and the reward is the taste of success in ringing the bell!

San 16, Kimnyoung-ri, Gujwa-eup, Jejusi, Jeju-do. jejumaze.com 064-782-9266

Radio Arirang Radio Jeju City: FM 88.7 Seogwipo: FM 88.1

Medical Services Nanta Started a decade ago, this nonverbal performance is a feast for the ears that turns ordinary kitchen pots and pans into a rhythm section. Jeju Media Center in Jeju City (064-727-7800). 90 min. Sun 8 pm, Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 pm, 8 pm. W40,000 - W50,000. nanta.i-pmc.co.kr 1544-1555

Dr. Chung’s Pediatric Clinic chung56@pednet.co.kr 064-748-1546 Hanna Women’s Clinic hannaobgy.com 064-711-7717 E-Pyeonhan Dental Clinic e-pretty.co.kr 064-758-2800

Seolmundae: Circus Musical Dramatic circus musical Seolmundae is based on old Jeju legends. Jeju Artrium. 5 & 7:30 pm.

W16,000. jejuartcenter.com 1577-9575

Bagdad Cafe Indian. Delicious, authentic Indian food made from local ingredients in a gorgeous atmosphere. Near City Hall in Jeju City 064-757-8182 Dom Jang Japanese. Spectacular sushi in several locations all over the island.

The best atmosphere is in Jungmun.

064-738-2550

January 21st Classic Ballet Concert The Seoul Ballet Company will set the stage on fire with dances from Don Quixote, The Swan Lake, Chicago, Memory of the Cats, and more. Jeju Culture Center. 3 & 7 pm.

W40,000 - 60,000. jejuculture.or.kr 064-702-9870

Family & Community December 31st - January 1st Seongsan Sunrise Festival Begin the new year with a spectacular view of the sunrise at Seongsan Ilchulbong peak, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Seogwiposi. 70ni.seogwipo.go.kr 064-760-2661

Restaurants

Island Gecko’s Western. A varied menu of terrific Western food, plus maybe the best cocktails and service on the island.

The BBQ nights every weekend will blow you away with ribeye steak, sausages, and more for only W19,000. Jungmun.

064-739-0845 geckosterrace.com The Plate This modern bistro serves up a great American-style hamburger along with other Thai dishes. 064-746-8008 Zapata’s Mexican. Find it behind Burger King near City Hall in Jeju City.

064-722-3369

Religious Services Jeju Anglican/Episcopal Church Sinjeju 010-2500-6780

NETWORKING CALENDAR E dited by J i s u n M oo n and dav i d carru t h

Wednesday, January 11th SIWA Coffee Morning This is an opportunity to make new friends and chat with old ones as well as enjoy diverse presentations by guest speakers.

9:30 am. Members W14,000, non-members W19,000. siwapage.com

Thursday, January 12th BASS Catch-up Coffee chez Jennifer Join BASS for a relaxed coffee and catch-up after the Christmas holidays. This time it’s even more exciting as BASS president Jennifer Mclntosh has offered to host the coffee morning at her apartment in Bangbaedong. Newcomers are welcome. Visit britishseoul.com to sign up and get directions. 10 am - 12 pm.

Thursday, January 12th FKCCI Café du Commerce Enjoy an informal French atmosphere at the monthly Café du Commerce networking event at the Novotel Ambassador Gangnam.

6:30 - 8:45 pm. W26,000. fkcci.com

Friday, January 13th AWC Monthly Meeting Join AWC for lunch and catch up with friends who have returned from the holidays. 11:30 am at Tomatillo Restaurant in Itaewon.

Members 12,000, non-members W14,000.

Cost includes drinks and a Mexican dish of your choice. awckorea-seoul.org

Tuesday, January 17th ANZA Monthly Global Cafe The Global Cafe is held at 10 am on the 3rd Tuesday of each month at the Grand Hyatt.

Members W10,000, non-members W15,000.

RSVP at anza.com.

Tuesday, January 17th Deutscher Club Stammtisch Held at the Sky Lounge on the 30th floor of the COEX InterContinental Hotel. 7:30 pm.

Please RSVP to Beatrice Hunt at vizepraesidentin@deutscherclubseoul.de. deutscherclubseoul.de

Thursday, January 19th KGCCI Economic Outlook 2012 Held at the Ritz Carlton Hotel. 5:30 - 9 pm.

Details TBA. korea.ahk.de

Friday, January 20th Ice Skating with SIWA In winter, ice skating is a great outdoor activity for both adults and children. The SIWA ladies will be visiting the ice skating rink at the Grand Hyatt Hotel. 3 - 5 pm.

Members W24,000, non-members W28,000.

Price includes ice rink usage and skate rental. Reserve a spot at siwapage.com.

Wednesday, January 25th SIWA Working Women Network This is a rare chance for working women to network with fellow ladies. Held every final

Wednesday of the month. Venue TBA. contact michellefarnsworth@live.com for more details.

Tuesday, January 31st BASS Annual General Meeting Enjoy a glass of bubbly or two as you thank BASS’s hardworking 2011 committee and welcome in the 2012 committee. Any new ideas or suggestions are welcome. Hallasan Room at the Seoul Club. 10 am - 12 pm.

Members W10,000, non-members W14,000. britishseoul.com Editor’s Note

As many expats are out of Korean on vacation during January, relatively few networking events have been scheduled for this month.

ANZA AWC BASS FKCCI KGCCI SIWA

Australian & New Zealand Association of South Korea American Women’s Club British Association of Seoul French Chamber of Commerce and Industry in Korea Korean-German Chamber of Commerce and Industry Seoul Int’l Women’s Association

To list your event, contact David Carruth at calendar@10mag.com or 02-3447-1610

NETWORKING CALENDAR Photos taken by Hugh Lee at the American Women’s Club first annual Pampered Chef party, held at the house of club president Julianne Taylor in Itaewon on Friday, December 2nd.

10 Magazine January 2012 | 67

T-Shinglish Words by N ei l A rmst rong , I llustration by Leroy K uci a

an elementary school student and the second by a teenager who looked like he meant it. I would, if I could, have swapped out the elementary school girl with a grandmother and the teenager with any middle-aged male.

For every “Asta la Vista, maybe?� however, there are three “You’re Just Good To Be True�s, which has a kind of philosophical beauty but is obviously a mistake. And here’s the rub. T-shirt English encapsulates publicly the whole problem of language inherited through a different language base’s culture: it’s slightly wrong. It took years to rid from my head an Arirang TV ad for one of its own food shows which promised, “Your stomach will soon be joyous.� And although “My Favorite Color is Shine,� “I Love Pik� (written in orange on a white T-shirt), and “Booty Coll� all work on some level, they will forever be wrong. Further, when the art and text department cannot be bothered to try at all, you get “JEEF!� or “Minterly,� and a host of non-words merely avoiding vocabulary copyright. Off-center T-shirt English is so ubiquitous, I’m concerned it might seep into their speech when Koreans travel abroad.

A B A B A B

W

hen a Korean asks me what my hobby is, I’m usually doing it. It’s reading his or her T-shirt. At a street level in South Korea, T-shirts are the foremost locus of questionable spelling, grammar, and meaning. Last Sunday, I went to a big supermarket, the kind which has more floors of car parking than goods. It was busier than a CCTV monitor in London. It also made for excellent slogan spotting. Which of the following did I actually see and which am I making up?

1 There’s Always Time For Shapping 2 PORNO (on the front) OGRAPHY Needs Me (on the back) 3 Smil!

Answer: I’m not making any of them up. These T-shirts shout loudly but tell us nothing about the people wearing them. Tone and meaning are often weirdly juxtaposed. I once saw a bastion of motherhood in a fluorescent green top spattered with the principle English language swearword. Counter to expectations, it concluded with an encomium to live your life well, something like “Be Upgrade!�

Who is doing the wearing is as important as what is worn. In the supermarket on Sunday, not all attempts at catchy English messaging were grammatically flawed. Two of the better ones were, “The Pleasure is All Wine� and “yes, actually, the world does revolve around me.� The problem was the first was worn by

Good morning.

I’m your smile.

Would you like a coffee, sir?

High Performance Coffee Tray Gear.* So you would like coffee?

State 101!*

I once bought several pairs of socks in one of Masan’s side street markets for next to nothing. The product turned out to be defective—the socks shredded upon opening—but I went back for replacements. I couldn’t help myself. The packaging exercised a strange consumer pull. The first word on the packet was “qwertyuiop.� After that it got a lot less comprehensible. Commas and full stops appeared mid-word. Asterisks were pointlessly frequent.

Dollar signs never indicated price. And words were occasionally 19 letters long. Someone had clearly smashed their paws across a Roman alphabet keyboard thinking that passable English language branding would be the result. The actual result was mass produced gibberish. So although I derive pleasure from my hobby, the end result is sometimes a general denuding of the language.

T-shirt watching is a harmless though not unaffecting pastime.

And I have to be careful doing it. Reading a long block of text on a young woman’s t-shirt makes me look like the kind of man who goes to the beach alone wearing extra baggy shorts, very dark wraparound sunglasses, and a smirk. So I’m a quick reader. *Actual T-shirt slogans ë°Šě´Œ 단•해 •경댏 ě?´íƒœě›? n o w •Itae ngridan o •Gye bangchon •Hae

Discover Why Itaewon Rocks!

What are the new restaurants?

What happy hours are tonight?

Is there a quiz night tonight?

Where can I get brunch?

Brazilian? Italian? American?

Moroccan? Pick your cuisine.

Pick up your FREE copy today at the Itaewon Subway Station Tourism Information Office or from your hotel concierge.

68 | 10 Magazine January 2012

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