10 Magazine 2012 February by 10 Media

Art • Theater • Concerts • Film • Community • Fitness • Dine & Drink • Nightlife • TRAVEL

Korea awaits! • february 2012 VOL. 4 NO. 5

외국인의 한국생활 노하우

Exotic Eats

Korea’s Be st Mex ic an, T ha i, and I nd ian Re st aurant s Plus:

Online Shopping Insights Fun Cafes for Kids Interview with Itaewon Base Commander Development and Discovery in Indonesia

Printed using 100% soy ink.

February 2012 vol. 4 No. 5 Nationwide Calendar

4 From the Editor / Shot of Korean

38 Movies The Adventures of Tintin, Sherlock Holmes, The Foul King

6 Contributors 8 Blog of the Month / Korea by the Numbers

39 TV History of the Salaryman on SBS 40 Music Sotto Gamba, Mirrors, Chocolat

9 Reader’s 10 10 10 Questions Col. William P. Huber

12 History The RussoJapanese War Begins

Books The Dog Farm, Out of Place

41 Tech Gifts from the Techie’s Heart

14 Expat Expertise Korean Shopping Websites 16 Family & Community Kids Cafes in Korea

Regional Calendar 37 Seoul Editor’s Pick Scythian Gold Exhibition

Sarah Cha

42 Seoul Food Review Paulodemaria 52 Seoul Discovery Great Walks for Winter

18 Korean Destination 4 Foods in Andong

Matthew Crompton

20 Asian Destination 3 Secret Spots in Indonesia

30 Hotel & Resort News 32 Expat News 34 In the Kitchen Chef Bira at Tabom 36 Gastronomic News 68 A Happy Ending

47 Seoul Editor’s Pick Month of Metal Bands Shot by Troy Zitzelsberger

Last year you may recall our “Best of the West” restaurant round up. This time, instead of pizza, burgers, and wings, we’re covering more exotic cuisines. We’ve hunted down the restaurants serving the tastiest Thai, the most munchworthy Mexican, and the most incredible Indian food.

59 Gangwon Discovery Pre-Winter Olympic Tour 60 Gyeonggi Discovery Getting to Know Hwaseong 63 Jeolla Discovery Hiking Daedun Mountain 64 Gyeongsang Discovery Taste of Texas Street

Roll in style with Dongbu Rent a Car! We provide you with a range of vehicles from compact cars to luxurious cars, SUVs and VANs, etc. Daily rental is available with all types of cars. Make a reservation for your journey today! The Longer You Rent, The More You Save. Maybe you’re taking the summer off or heading to a military base for your business trip. Whatever your long-term rental needs, choose our long-term lease plan and enjoy major discounts on great cars, suvs and vans.

The Savings Are Just The Beginning. Enjoy The Full Benefits Of Dongbu Rent a Car: • Vehicle access to military installations • Navigation (English/Korean) available • 24-hour roadside assistance • FREE unlimited mileage

It’s Easy to Get the Savings Started Our long-term lease plan specialists are standing by to answer all your questions and to help make all your arrangements. We are open every day 8 am - 6 pm to make your trip more enjoyable!

Call 02-793-6665(COM) / 723-5792(DSN) or email us at BESTRENT@paran.com / dongburent@gmail.com We’ll get right back to you. Thanks!

Dongbu Rent a Car

Culture through Cuisine

ne of my favorite TV shows is the Travel Channel’s Anthony Bourdain: No Reservations. I sit around watching episodes for hours on end at my mom’s house when I head home for Christmas vacation. On the surface it would seem to be a show about food around the world but it actually goes much deeper than that. This show isn’t on the Food Network, it’s on the Travel Channel, and each and every episode is an exploration into the culture as much as it is into the food - and primarily it’s an exploration of the culture of food. He looks at where the food comes from, how fresh it is, how it is obtained and how healthy or unhealthy it is. Now you can criticize Bourdain for being inconsistent (he recently tore into another chef for teaching unhealthy recipes while singing the praises of pork on nearly every episode) and arrogant (he often is - and would probably readily admit it), but he is nothing if not open-minded when it comes to trying new foods. He’s also certainly no snob when it comes to eateries, happily launching into what for most of us would be a very suspect street vendor’s pho in a Vietnamese market with zest rather than hesitation. The street stalls and dives are more common destinations than fine dining, and that’s the appeal of the show. He eats like the native people do, not seeking out the finest bourgeoisie eateries but proletarian comfort food. Here at 10, our magazine also often serves as a purveyor of culture via cuisine. Each and every month you will find articles about unique Korean foods, and this month is certainly no exception, with a masterful exploration of Andong specialties by 10 regular contributor Curtis File and plenty of other Foodie Finds around the nation. 10, however, is about introducing cultures to each other and what better way to do just that than to introduce both our Western and our Korean readers to some of the best international cuisine from Southeast Asia, the Indian Subcontinent and Latin America. It’s a terrific way to experience other cultures while staying right here at home, and you’re likely to

run into natives of the countries whose cuisines you’ll be trying when you visit, as they may be employees or even owners of the restaurant. How cool is that? T h is cult u ral excha nge shouldn’t end with our articles, however, as we want you to participate! We’ve made the perfect venue for you to tell us where to find other restaurants or share your opinion on the restaurants we have featured on our pages 10mag.com. Visit our website and click on “Directory” and “Restaurants” to find the restaurants listed in these articles as well as to rate and review them just like you would on rating and reviewing sites back home. It’s the only place to find ratings and reviews of restaurants in this country in English. You can also put up your own restaurants and other venues simply by clicking on “Add Place” and filling out the required information and uploading pics. Share your dining secrets with 10 Magazine’s readers, too! It’s all part of the way that we’re trying to bring you into the conversation. Visit and share on our forums, listen to our podcast and tell us about your club events on our website. We’re trying hard to build a community that will share ideas and information about what to do, where to go and how to experience Korea like no other. This is not a one way conversation, and we’re always listening, so talk to us - be it on Facebook and Twitter, by email and phone, or by joining our website. And stay tuned for some more Korean food culture shared by yours truly and my new mother-in-law via YouTube very soon. You’re going to enjoy a lot more tastes of Korea in your own kitchen if the two of us have anything to say about it. Hopefully we’ll get Anthony Bourdain to join us in the kitchen someday, too. Steph en R ev er e M anaging E ditor

A Shot of Korean by Stephen Revere 다양해요. [ Da-yang-hae-yo. ] - It’s diverse. There’s a great variety. The original form of this word is of course 다양하다. The Chinese character 다 (多) means “many,” while 양 (樣) means “appearance.” You can obviously see how knowing a few Chinese characters can help you learn the Korean language. For more on this, check out the Handbook of Korean Vocabulary by Dr. William O’Grady. 용평에 가면 즐길 수 있는 레저 스포츠가 다양해요. If you go to Yongpyeong, there are diverse leisure activities you can enjoy.

진미 식당은 메뉴가 다양해요. Jinmi Restaurant has a wide variety of items on the menu. Check out Survival Korean and Survival Korean: Basic Grammar Skills for more Korean lessons from 10’s Managing Editor, Stephen Revere. 4 | 10 Magazine February 2012

CEO

Sang-tae Kim sangtaekim@10mag.com

General Manager

Kyounghee Lim kl@10mag.com Chan-hui Jeong finance@10mag.com Dami Kang dk@10mag.com

Finance Sales/Promotion

Executive Editor

Jai-yoon Kim jaiyoonkim@10mag.com Stephen Revere sr@10mag.com David Carruth dc@10mag.com

Managing Editor

Samantha Dix-Hill (p. 68) is a South African who now calls Germany home. She lived in Japan and China before joining her husband in Korea. She has an MS TESOL degree and is currently studying psychology in between taking care of her youngest son, her husband and her dog. Her passion is writing and she believes that a day without laughter is a day wasted. sd@10magazine.asia

Production Editor

Jyoung-Ah Kim (p. 24) is a Texan: you can take the girl out of the country, but you can’t take the country out of the girl! She has resided in Korea long enough that she has taken on the food and a sassy attitude and so she makes sure she can dish it as much as she can take it.

10 S ta ff S p o t l i g h t

Jennifer Kwon is a university student from Toronto, Canada. She is double majoring in art history and music. Currently she works at 10 Magazine and is really happy about it (we made her say that). She likes hiking, watching movies, and spending time with her family and friends. She is also interested in experiencing new cultures and learning new languages. Birgit Rappold (p. 26) is from Munich, Germany and has been living the expat life since 2006. She loves to travel, do and teach Pilates and Muay Thai and discover the hidden treasures of her host countries. After exploring and writing about her adventures in Southeast Asia, she has now arrived in Korea to continue her quest for fantastic food and fun.

Art Director

Hugh Lee hl@10mag.com Dylan Goldby dg@10mag.com Gregory Etheart ge@10mag.com

Photographer Contributing Designer

Conor O’Reilly (p. 60) is fond of wandering around places never wandered before, and Korea has always provided him plenty of opportunities for this. When not dreaming of a good pint of Guinness, he writes. He is happily married and lives in Suwon. For more waffle visit his blog, ifihadaminutetospare. wordpress.com.

Jason Strother (p. 28) is an American freelance radio journalist who first came to Korea as an exchange student in 2002. Four years later he returned and has since reported from around the country as well as from Pyongyang. Jason has covered everything from presidential elections to mud festivals and was even evacuated into a bomb shelter while reporting from Yeonpyeong Island.

Contribute to 10 Magazine 10 Magazine is currently looking for contributors all over Korea to provide photography and articles. If you’re interested in gaining valuable writing experience and sharing your experience here with readers all across Korea, contact us at 10mag.com/contribute. 6 | 10 Magazine February 2012

Contributors Michael Berry, Todd Bruns, Judith Clancy, Matthew Crompton, Anjee DiSanto, Samantha Dix-Hill, Curtis File, Ian Henderson, Nina Hoffman, Aaron Jackson-Crabb, Jyoung-Ah Kim, Chelsie Kozera, Leroy Kucia, Stafford Lumsden, Paul Matthews, Joe McPherson, John Mensing, Charles Montgomery, Robert Neff, Conor O’Reilly, Anna Orzel, Rob Ouwehand, Mary Rager-Summers, Birgit Rappold, Barun Sarkar, John Stoops, Jason Strother, Grace Sun, Martyn Thompson, Vaughan Wallis, Luigina Webb, Bryce Weibley, Soyeon Kimberly Yoon, Troy Zitzelsberger

Coordinators

Jessica Lee coordinator@10mag.com Jisun Moon jm@10mag.com

Interns

Teresa Franklin Yoo-jung Jang Jennifer Kwon Joo-yeong Yang

Marketing Inquiries Calendar Events Contributions Comments Subscriptions

marketing@10mag.com calendar@10mag.com contribute@10mag.com comments@10mag.com subscribe@10mag.com

Printer

Tara TPS. Co., Ltd The cover photo was taken by Dylan Goldby at Taj Indian restaurant in Gangnam.

Please Recycle This Magazine

The views expressed in these articles do not necessarily represent the views of 10 Magazine. 10 Magazine February 2012, Vol. 4 No. 5 등록번호: 용산 라 00184 (Registration: Yongsan Ra 00184) Address 서울시 용산구 이태원로 211 한남빌딩 10층 10th floor Hannam Buildling 211 Itaewon-ro, Seoul 140-893 Phone 02-3447-1610 www.10mag.com 10 Magazine is published monthly by 10 Media Inc. © All Rights Reserved.

DEPARTMENTS Blog of the Month

Korea by the Numbers

Maangchi maangchi.com

Words by Rob Ouwehand

100% 63%

Percentage of Korean parents who want their children to go to university.

Number of Koreans between the ages of 25 to 34 who are college graduates,the highest rate in the OECD. Number of high school graduates who enter university.

16%

The percentage of income that families in Seoul spend on private education (including academies and tutoring). Source: The Economist, Dec 17th, 2011

PODCAST

Carrier 12:34

www.10m

ag.com/

10mag

mag.c

om 8

Join Paul, Dani, and Dani for 10 Magazine’s Korea Culture Report on the 1st and 15th of every month for madcap antics, strong opinions on current topics and interesting places in Korea

Win a free subscription to 10 magazine by answering our super-cool trivia question! 10mag.com 8 | 10 Magazine February 2012

As Winter’s fingers thread through window frames, it’s a great time to hunker down at a computer screen and watch videos of food... or warm up the house by cooking some. Maangchi (망치, Korean for “Hammer”) is the online handle of the lady who runs a sprawling online community dedicated to Korean food. While not a trained chef, Maangchi is a Korean food enthusiast. She has populated her blog and YouTube channel with scores of how-to videos for Korean main dishes, side dishes, and desserts. Visiting the website is a highly interactive experience. Maangchi is clearly interested in helping her readers connect: readers can attend events, and most of the home page is filled with updates on the very active community forum discussions. Almost every part of the website is open to reader submissions: fans can send in videos, photos, recipes, and answer each other’s questions. The YouTube channel ( youtube.com/user/ Maangchi) features informative videos on cooking all kinds of Korean foods, starting with kimchi and bibimbap (the most popular videos). Maangchi is currently touring the globe to meet, and cook, with viewers, and post the resulting videos. The Scores Content As it’s generated as much by the community as Maangchi herself, any Korean food enthusiast will feel at home here. Layout While that active community might feel wellconnected by all the community information on the front page, it makes the page quite crowded and dense for newcomers. Professionalism The “lady with a camera” do-it-yourself production is charming; the YouTube videos, while unpolished, are captioned well and very useful.

THE READER'S 10

What Are Your Favorite Sections in 10 Magazine?

ome of our newer readers may not have noticed yet, but we at 10 Magazine stick to a consistent format each month. Starting with Managing Editor Stephen Revere’s message to readers at the beginning, continuing on through our regular departments and feature articles, and finishing up with our regional calendar at the back, the magazine gives readers the same kind of content each month so they know what to expect. But we do like to shuffle things up every now and again, and to do that we need to know what content our readers enjoy the most, and what they could do without. Our Reader’s 10 poll this month was about exactly that: figuring out what works, and what doesn’t. Many of the top ten results in the poll came out as we expected – our Cover Story and Asian Destination, for example – but we had no idea our Korean Destination travel articles had quite so many fans. 10 In the Kitchen 9 History 8 Cover Story 7 Asian Destination 6 From the Editor 5 Expat News 4 A Shot of Korean 3 Expat Expertise 2 Calendar Events

1 Korean Destination Shot by Joonghijung, flickr at Haeinsa, Gyeongsangnam-do

Our March Reader’s 10 question may hit a little close to home. That’s because we want to ask you about the place you came from. What makes you homesick? (Of course, many of our readers are Korean – but this will be a great opportunity for you to learn more about the foreigners living here!)

What Do You Miss Most About Life in Your Home Country? As always, we will be posting the open thread for the Reader’s 10 to our website on January 26th. Head to 10mag.com/ readers10, click on the open thread, and nominate the items you would like to include in the poll. On February 9th, we will take your nominations and use them to make the poll, available on our website between February 9th and February 16th. For the results, be sure to pick up our March issue. 10 Magazine February 2012 | 9

S H ot by S p c . Amb e r I . S mi t h

10 Qu estions

Colonel William P. Huber

Installation Commander at the United States Army Garrison Yongsan

ccupying the 2.5 square kilometers that stretch from Huam-dong near Namsan to Ichon-dong by the Han River, the U.S. Army Garrison Yongsan maintains an imposing presence in central Seoul. In charge of this key American military installation is Col. William P. Huber, who has served in South Korea on three occasions: as a major, as a lieutenant colonel and garrison commander at Camp Red Cloud north of Seoul, and in his present capacity. Col. Huber will soon be bidding farewell to Korea for a third time as he moves on to his next assignment. Fortunately, 10 Magazine managed to catch him before his departure to hear him share his thoughts about his time in Korea.

10 10 Magazine February 2012

1. What made you choose the U.S. Army for a profession? I don’t think I chose the U.S. Army as a profession. The U.S. Army chose me to serve. But there are four reasons why I have continued to serve. The first reason was to protect freedom and democracy. The second reason was to get an education because my family had limited resources. The third reason was to see the world. I was a boy from Montana and I had never left the state, so at 18 years old, it was an opportunity to get out and travel. The fourth reason was because I absolutely fell in love with the Army. 2. When did you join the Army? I enlisted in the Army in January 1981 as a high school senior. I spent six years as an enlisted Soldier (E-1 to E-5). After finishing my enlisted term, I graduated college, got out of the National Guard and took a commission on Active Duty through ROTC. The Army is the only job I’ve ever had. And you know what, when you love your job, you don’t have to work a day in your life. 3. You’ve been all over the world. What has been your most interesting posting? The most memorable assignment I’ve had is Desert Storm, when I was introduced to the desert. Living out there, training out there in the desert, and then going through the 100-hour war was the most interesting assignment. We were up in Al Nasiriya, which is the birthplace of Abraham. We got to walk around the ruins and learn from the Bedouins. Jesus talked about living 40 days and 40 nights in the desert. Well, what was it really like? I got to experience it.

4. As the Garrison Commander, what are your responsibilities? I oversee and manage all facilities, infrastructure and services on the garrison of Yongsan. The garrison maintains the quality of life for servicemembers, families and civilians. So anything outside of servicemembers’ jobs that takes place on the garrison and installation, the U.S. Army garrison staff oversees. 5. What sorts of things does Yongsan Garrison do to be part of the greater Seoul community? As residents of Seoul, we are tied not just to Yongsan Garrison, but to probably a 2-mile radius around the garrison. And we interact with all the community members and store owners. We are a proud part of this community. I believe we are ambassadors for the alliance, which is great and strong because we live side by side with our partners, share common values, and learn about our respective cultures. 6. The U.S. Army is an often maligned presence here in Korea, particularly when serious crimes are committed by solders. What do you do to prevent this from happening? We conduct an enor mous amount of t raining with our soldiers—not just to be warriors, but to be strong leaders, ambassadors and outstanding citizens. In many servicemember disciplinary cases, alcohol is involved. We have to go out and train our soldiers on what it means to drink responsibly and drink socially and not allow yourself to make bad decisions. 7. Have you enjoyed your time in Korea? Korea is my assignment of choice: my most exciting assignment and the assignment I have enjoyed the most. I have spent more years in Korea than anywhere else in my career. Nowhere else have I held the key leadership and staff positions that have given me the opportunity to rise to the next level. The people of Korea and I have built some lifelong friendships in the six to seven years I’ve been assigned to Korea that continue to grow every day. With the assignments, the contacts and the people who have coached and mentored me, Korea has become my second home. 8. Do you have a favorite hangout here? I love Itaewon as do thousands of others. Because I’ve lived here so long, I think The Three Alley Pub has become my dining facility, my mess hall, my watering hole. I eat there, I socialize there, I’ve got some very close friends there. Bernie and Albert, the owners of the pub, take good care of all servicemembers, civilians, contractors and community members. If you want to go have a beer with Col. Huber, stop by on Friday evening. 9. What are you most proud of having accomplished in your time here? I’m most proud of the staff and what the staff has accomplished in the 16 months that I’ve had the opportunity to be the Commander. When I returned to Yongsan, my passion was to improve the dining facilities, fitness centers, and unaccompanied personnel housing. This is what was important to me back in 1981 when I joined the Army: where I ate, where I worked out, and where I slept. So I asked the staff to look at these areas and make a difference for the soldier. I’m very proud of what the staff has accomplished at the Honors Cafe, the Trent Warrior Resiliency Strength and Fitness Center, and the Collier Community Fitness Center. 10. You’ll be moving on to another assignment soon, but do you have any future plans related to Korea? I’m going to come back for the 2018 Winter Olympics. I’ll 5=;@9 5Aalways =D be tied to Korea because I’ll always have friends here. Will I come back to work in Korea? I don’t know. But Korea is my sec$ )+& ++#+ ond home. Korea is where my closest friends reside, and Korea is a` Va`Y where I’ve had the greatest amount of contact in the past 10 years. I Wag^ ]adWS know I can come home to Seoul5SXW 4W` because my friends are here. There is potential that I could retire here in Itaewon and Yongsan-gu. But we are going to have to wait until the day comes that I hang the hat a` 7j EfSf[ up, take the[f $boots off, hang the uniform up and retire the spurs! ;fSWia`

9D3@6 B7@;@9

KAG 53@ 73F ?73F 8G>> E3>36 43D 477D A@ F3B

;fSWia` Da

10 Magazine February 2012 | 11

Chemulpo and the First Shots of the Russo-Japanese War

A skirmish between Japanese and Russian warships in February of 1904 was the first clash of the Russo-Japanese war, a conflict whose outcome would determine the fate of Korea.

From top: The Russian ships before the battle, from Collier's Russo-Japanese War, ca. 1905; Korean junks anchored safely in Chemulpo Harbor during the Russo-Japanese battle, from Illustrated News 1904; Postcard showing wounded Russians approaching the Japanese Red Cross Hospital at Chemulpo

10 Magazine February 2012

ust before noon on February 9th, 1904, two Russian warships, the Variag, an American-built cruiser, and the Koreetz, an obsolete gunboat, made their way past the chunks of floating ice in the Chemulpo (modern Incheon) harbor toward certain defeat. The crews frantically threw overboard tables, chairs and other items in an attempt to make the ships as fireproof as possible. Gone was the crews’ laundry that had just hours earlier hung from lines running from the masts and in their place were Russian battle flags rippling smartly in the wind. Awaiting the Russians was a powerful fleet of fourteen Japanese warships that had taken up position just outside of the harbor. The previous afternoon (February 8th), the Koreetz, unaware of the Japanese presence, had tried to set sail for China only to be fired upon by the Japanese fleet. It was only later that evening that the Russian government received Japan’s declaration of war – a full six hours later. Gone was the illusion of peace. Despite being badly outnumbered, the Russian commander elected to confront the Japanese rather than allow his ships to be captured. The sailors fatalistically wrote farewell letters to their wives and families in Russia, convinced that they would never see them again. These letters were entrusted with the commander of the British warship Talbot, which was anchored in Chemulpo’s harbor. As the Russian ships steamed past the anchored Western warships in the harbor, the Russian band bravely began to play the Russian national anthem as the sailors raised their voices in a show of defiance. This drew the attention and praise of the Western sailors. Cheers of admiration were heard from the decks of the French, Italian and British warships, for all knew that many of the Russians were going to their deaths. The Russian

Words BY Robert Neff Photos courtesy of the Robert Neff collection

Postcard with wounded Russian sailors in the Japanese military hospital at Chemulpo

sailors returned the cheers and the band played each of the other nations’ national anthems in appreciation. The battle – if it could be called that – lasted just over an hour. Crowds of people lined the streets along the waterfront and braved the cold to witness the beginning of the war between the two powers. The sounds of the great warships’ guns echoed across the bay and shook the city’s buildings and then it was over. The Variag, badly damaged and on fire, limped back into the port, but it was obviously sinking. The Koreetz had fared better but like its larger companion, it would not survive the night. Even as the Russian sailors began to hastily paint the ship to cover up the damage, the Russian commander issued orders to scuttle the ship along with the Sungari (a Russian steamship that also happened to be in the harbor). The wounded were quickly transferred to the British and French ships, but the American ships – the U.S.S. Vicksburg and Zaphrino – were not allowed to take on the survivors due to overcrowding and legal concerns. Many Americans living in Korea were ashamed of the navy’s decision not to aid the Russian sailors. The Koreetz was scuttled first at around 3:30 pm. The explosion rocked Chemulpo and sent up a huge cloud of smoke that darkened the sky and rained debris onto the roofs and heads of the spectators. The Variag sank quietly and gracefully just after sunset to the sound of the Russian bands playing from the sanctuary of the French and English warships, and the crowds watching from the shores and boats applauded in appreciation for her bravery. Accompanying her to her watery grave were fortyone Russian sailors killed in battle that had been laid to rest in one of her large cabins. The Russian steamship, Sungari, was set on fire and burned throughout the night, finally sinking in the early morning. Some of the seriously injured Russians were treated in a Japanese hospital in Chemulpo. For this act of kindness, the Russian government, through the French Minister in Seoul, donated $1,000 to the Japanese Red Cross. The Russian sailors were eventually repatriated to Russia aboard neutral nations’ vessels and were treated like heroes. As for the Russian ships, the Variag and the Sungari were salvaged and repaired by the Japanese and re-commissioned as Japanese ships. 10 Magazine February 2012 | 13

Ex pat Ex per tise

Finding the Best Deal on Korean Shopping Websites Gmarket, Danawa, and a host of other Korean websites provided online bargain hunters with an attractive alternative to Amazon and Craigslist. W o r d s by S ta fford L u msd e n

or the house-bound, infirm and otherwise agoraphobic amongst us, online shopping is a godsend. For expats, it’s often an important lifeline for obtaining those muchsought-after but comparatively rare items that it’s difficult to source in Korea. But there is also a vibrant and extensive online shopping experience to be had within the confines of the Korean language web, with some sites beginning to cater more and more to the expat and English-speaking community resident in Korea. This article doesn’t purport to look at all of the online shopping options you have in Korea, and having been written by a Firefox-loving, MacBook Air-wielding fan boy, your mileage may vary depending on the system you use to venture onto the Korean language Internet. But it will give you an idea about the online shopping secrets your Korean friends might have been keeping from you all this time!

Auction auction.co.kr

Gmarket gmarket.co.kr and eBay ebay.com

Interpark interpark.com

It’s time to find that Korean friend of yours to walk you through this one. Established in 2001, Auction was Korea’s first online auction service, set up like eBay, and eventually bought by eBay. Mostly in Korean, Auction is very similar to Gmarket, though it provides sellers the opportunity to sell second-hand goods as well as larger vendors to sell in bulk. Supposedly, it has support for signing up if you are a foreigner in Korea, asking you to input your name and alien registration number, but after four attempts at trying various combinations of the two, this author gave up and asked a Korean co-worker to log in and buy something on his behalf.

Perhaps the best known online store in Korea amongst expats, Gmarket was bought by eBay in 2011, but don’t worry—Gmarket is still around! You just need to pick one of its local stores (Korea, Singapore or Japan), when visiting gmarket.co.kr, all of which have an English version. Not all of the listings are in English, of course, and similar to eBay, depending on what you are searching for, you’ll get bounced around the three local sites. However, Gmarket remains one of the easiest shopping sites to join and log in to for expats in Korea. While it stopped supporting Paypal some time ago, if you are buying from a Korean vendor you have the ease of using your local bank ATM to pay for the goods via bank transfer. On the other hand, if you have already signed up for eBay you would usually have the choice of logging in at any of its localized sites (USA, Australia/New Zealand, UK, etc.) and it just works. Not so with eBay Korea, which asks you to create new sign-in details--that don’t work on eBay’s other sites but still send you to all the other eBay sites whenever you search for something. My advice: eBay Korea is not quite ready for the prime time.

Labelling itself “shopper’s heaven,” Interpark may well be the most comprehensive shopping site in Korea with everything from lingerie to Euro-rail tickets on offer. Sadly, there is no English language version of the site except for the ticket section (visit ticket. interpark.com/Global). That said, of all the sites discussed here, it read the best after a bit of Google Translate magic. Perhaps best known for sales of event tickets, Interpark has a comprehensive theatre review section (again in Korean) and impressive amounts of information on upcoming events throughout Korea. Now it might just be the vagaries of my long and complicated English name, but I was unable to register at Interpark either, leading me to think my name and alien number is filed somewhere deep in the bowels of a government computer somewhere and marked “No shopping for you!” However, a Korean friend will navigate Interpark with ease. Perhaps you could buy something for them from Interpark as a way of saying thank you.

10 Magazine February 2012

Joonggonara cafe.naver.com/joonggonara

Danawa danawa.com

Imagine the thousand or so items in the for sale section at seoul.craigslist.org and then multiply it by 8,000. That’s right. This Naver cafe (meaning “second-hand land”) has over eight million members swapping and selling second hand goods, everything from cameras to computers and from beauty products to fashion accessories. Joonggonara was Craigslist before there was a Craigslist (in Korea anyway), and this self-patrolled community of buyers and sellers works hard to keep its boards safe and useful. All that is required to access the sales on Joonggonara is a Naver ID. * * *

Danawa (meaning “we’ve got everything”) is the place to go online if you are intending to purchase something technology-related. But a lot of Danawa’s success is its ability to aggregate different sources of shopping information (including product news and reviews), so much so that you may well find yourself at Lotte. com looking at a Bean Pole special edition version of the Samsung NX 200 camera, rather than on Danawa, thus requiring a separate login. In amongst the cameras, PC cases and TVs, Danawa also offers a range of clothing options for the discerning geek including Adidas windbreakers, Nike shoes and off-therack suits from Shinsegae department store. What it doesn’t offer is any way for foreigners to become members and log in. The registration page has no English version and won’t even allow input of names in English, only in Korean. Despite the geeky technological wonders that lie just beyond the registration page, you’re definitely locked out of danawa.com if you’re an expat.

11th Street 11st.co.kr One of the more recent

entrants into the market, 11th Street (in Korean “11번가,” pronounced “shipil beonga”) was established in 2008 and is run by SK Telecom. Outside of the Windows/Internet Explorer realm, 11th Street fails to render properly with flash animations not loading and many of the links to various categories not working. Ultimately, attempts to register and log in were also met with pages that loaded incompletely and were difficult to navigate.

ltimately, the world of online shopping in Korea is still fraught with difficulties for those of us who don’t have the required credentials (a Korean social security number, and in large part Korean language skills). However, things are changing, albeit at a glacial pace. Gmarket remains the only place where you will get an online shopping experience you are familiar with, while eBay Korea, despite requiring new login details, still directs and pulls up search results from other localized sites. And while some caution is needed in dealing with individuals on Joonggonara, it too has good second-hand deals and a low barrier to entry. Beyond Gmarket and Joonggonara, it’s probably better for expats to stick with Amazon, perhaps utilizing an on-base friend with an APO address, just in time for that spring wardrobe refresh! 10 Magazine February 2012 | 15

Kids Cafes in Korea A Perfect Place for Families This Winter Words by Grace Sun and shots by Sarah Cha It’s cold and the kids are bored. The season for outdoor pools and running in the park is well and truly over. What to do now? For those of you who have very young children, it can often be a challenge finding a suitable place to take them for some playtime. Here’s some great news for you - Kids Cafés in Korea are aplenty! These indoor playgrounds cater to children and babies from 6 months up and are filled with wondrous delights to keep them entertained for a couple of hours while mom and dad take a well-deserved break. There are CCTV screens and helpful staff in every café, so you can rest assured that your child will be fine. Here’s 10’s guide to the best kids cafés in town.

Dalki Kids Café Perhaps the most expensive and the least suitable for young children, this large café has very little for toddlers and babies, but a lot to offer older kids. Train rides, haircuts in a car, manicure counters, craft and cooking centers, and a big teddy that fills up an entire room in the Times Square location make for great photos. B2, Times Square, 442 Yeongdeungpo-dong 4-ga, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Seoul. Kids W10,000, adults W5,000. Other branches in Yongin and Jamsil. cafe.dalkis.com 02-2638-2615

Cocomong Land Probably the coolest of the bunch, this café has an indoor ferris wheel, popping ball guns, and even bumper cars. Add to that a jumping area, cooking and art room, train ride, magnetic fishing and photo time with Cocomong. Don’t expect much in terms of food and drink, though. Note that for children, access is limited to those who are 7 years old or younger. 6F, 516 Munjeong-dong, Songpa-gu, Seoul. Below 24 months W8,000, 25 months - 7 years W13,000, adults W6,000. cocomongland.com 02-2157-5000

Courtesy of hellokittytown.co.kr

Hello Kitty Town

This one is for the girls and those that live in Ilsan. Themed (and pink, pink, pink!), this café has the usual play equipment, as well as a dress-up area with costumes, train ride, and large party room for birthdays. 3F B Tower, Western Dome, Janghang-dong, Ilsan-gu, Goyang-si, Gyeonggi-do. Kids up to 10 years old W7,000. Adults need not pay admission but must order food or a drink in the cafeteria. hellokittytown.co.kr 031-904-1772

10 Magazine February 2012

Little Bear Café Another chain with more than 20 locations in a variety of cities. The staff here are the most attentive, often helping and playing with the kids. Every 30-60 minutes, an activity - such as arts and crafts or dance exercises - is led by staff and everyone can join in. Play equipment is excellent and caters to all ages. Korean website has phone numbers and directions for each branch. Price varies as branches are operated separately. littlebearcafe.com

Tumbland Another large and busy one for the older kids, Tumbland lacks in some areas (notably, food and drink) but makes up for it with its huge jumping castle and big swinging tree. A ball pit and play room are suitable for smaller kids, but beware as this place can get pretty hectic on weekends. Located in Yongsan’s Ipark, it’s a convenient location for those that live in the area. 40-999 iPark Mall, Hanrang-ro 3-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul. Kids W15,000, adults W5,000. Other locations in Seoul and other cities. tumbland.co.kr 02-2012-0713

Little Prince Café Without a doubt the best all-rounder, the Little Prince chain has dozens of locations all over Korea, from Seoul to Jeju. The café is set up like a restaurant, so patrons must buy food. Adults can enjoy delicious pasta and rice dishes, gourmet coffees, and snacks, and dads can even enjoy some beer. The food served is the best in any kids café, and children’s meals are also fantastic - organic and MSG-free. All the usual equipment is there – slides, jumping area, ball pit – as well as a section for the little ones that contains bouncers and exersaucers. Every 3 hours, the entire play area is sanitized with UV lights. Highly recommended. Korean website has links to websites for each branch. Kids W7,000, adults must make a purchase at the cafeteria. kpgc.co.kr 1544-7993

Pororo Land Located in the new D-Cube City in Sindorim, this emporium for kids is perfect for those moms and dads in need of a bit of downtime from shopping. The very comfy relaxation area is a nice nesting place for the crawlers, and the ball pit, building blocks, activity rooms, large jumping mattress, and train ride are great for the older kids. Best of all is the live show every hour, complete with Pororo and all his friends dancing and singing – such a treat. The café has a good selection of drinks but no meals. 4F D-Cube, 360-51 Sindorim-dong, Guro-gu, Seoul. Kids W16,000, adults W6,000. Other branches in Hwaseong and Paju, both in Gyeonggi Province (admission is cheaper for kids here: W10,000). pororopark.com 1661-6340 10 Magazine February 2012 | 17

kor ean desti nation

Andong’s Four Famous Foods Wo r d s a n d sh ots by C u r t is F i l e

If you need an excuse to head to Andong, these four delicious culinary options should do the trick.

Few cities in Korea can claim to have nurtured and preserved the local culture as well as Andong, a city nestled in the northern part of Gyeongsangbuk-do. During the Joseon Dynasty, it was home to some of Korea’s most revered Confucian scholars and was an epicenter of academia and nobility. Along with the rich history comes a distinct culinary palate celebrated in the local specialties, making a trip to Andong an essential addition to any expat’s to-do list. S a lt e d M ack e r e l

Historically, Andong was one of the few inland cities where fish was available, making it a popular delicacy among the aristocracy. Salted mackerel, or gan godeungeo (간 고등어), is the region’s most famous fishy delight. Andong Gan Godeungeo (안동 간 고등어) has built a franchise out of their version of the dish, which they serve in a couple different styles. In its grilled form, the fish is served simply: alone on a platter 1 Table spread with hoetjesabap, 2 Godeung-eo jorim (mackerel stew), 3 Shark served with onions and beef, 4 Pan-fried mackerel and pollock, 5 Jjim dalk

10 Magazine February 2012

with the inside facing up to aid in deboning. Its presentation belies the deliciousness that awaits you. The crispy skin is a perfect combination with the salty, fluffy flesh. Alternatively, you can find the mackerel served in a stew-like dish, topped with mushrooms, spring onions, and a savory red sauce. You can’t go wrong pairing these salty treats with a fresh, cold beer. Website for Andong Gan Godeungeo (Korean): godunga.co.kr F u n e r a ry F ood

Like many of the dishes in Andong, heotjesabap (헛제삿밥) is one steeped in local history. Jesa (제사) is a Korean funerary tradition in which food is offered to deceased ancestors and incense is burned. Heotjesabap best translates to “fake jesa,” and it is called “fake” because it is eaten rather than actually sacrificed. One restaurant that has garnered fame for keeping the heotjesabap tradition alive is Kkachi Gumeong House (까치구멍집). The meal begins with egg, pan-fried mackerel and pollock, and vegetables served on a bronze goblet – a perfect sampler to start with. The main course is composed of several dishes including Andong-style bibimbap (with sesame seeds and soy sauce as opposed to the more familiar gochujang), kimchi, vegetables, and fish. The real highlight, though, is the shark. Served in a row of bite-size rectangles with a side of onions and beef, it has a texture and flavor closer to pork than fish. I can almost guarantee these little morsels will have you begging the server for more. Website for Kkaji Gumeong House (Korean): andongrice.com

Gangnam / Myeongdong / Sadang / Mokdong / Yeomchang / Seogyo / Seoyeouido Wangsimni / Times Square / Seoul Station / Yongsan Station / Eunpyeong Seoul Finance Center / Myeongdong (ANEX) / Samseong (COEX) / Jongno Ilsan / Suwon Ingye / Bucheon Jungdong / Dongtan Megapolis / Pyeongtaek E-Mart Busan Lotte Dapartment (Gwangbok) / Busan Haeundae / Cheonan Sinbu Changwon / Gwangju Sangmoo / Ulsan / Incheon Concourse

Balsan (OPEN: 13, Dec) / Daejeon Complex Terminal (OPEN: 20, Dec)

A n do n g S oj u

Forget ever y thi ng you k now about soju: the green bottles, the face-puckering cringe of a “one shot,” and the crippling morningafter headaches. Andong soju is a gentleman’s drink. Dating back to the Silla dynasty, the alcohol was brewed and consumed by Confucian scholars and the nobility that settled in the region. At 80-proof, it packs a much stronger punch than its convenience store counter par ts. The most noticeable difference is the ginlike flavor and the way it warms your body on the way down. Although considerably more expensive (around W16,000 for a small bottle), it’s more than worth the extra cash. A n do n g J jim - Da l k

Perhaps the real prize of Andong, and easily its most famous specialty, is jjim-dalk (찜닭), a chicken and vegetable stew served with cellophane noodles. The Andong Market, located at the center of town, is home to dozens of restaurateurs cooking up their own versions of the dish, each tweaking the ingredients to their own definitions of perfection. One of the oldest restaurants in the area, Andong Jjimdalk Jongson, is located right near the entrance of the market. What you will find in the jjim-dalk here that you won’t outside of Andong is the perfect balance of ingredients. The ratio of chicken and vegetables is perfectly tuned so that neither is emphasized at the expense of the other. The sauce blends together a perfect mix of savory and spicy that will have you eating your way into a food coma. 10 Magazine February 2012 | 19

Valid through March 31st, 2012

Asi an Desti nation

Improving Paradise

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Wonderful Indonesiaâ&#x20AC;? and the Drive Toward Development W o r d s b y Dav i d C a r r u t h , s h o t s b y M att h e w C r ompto n a n d Dav i d C a r r u t h *

20 10 Magazine February 2012

While Indonesia struggles to bring new facilities, investors, and tourists to underdeveloped regions, the country’s unpolished beauty speaks for itself.

Top Hikers overlooking the caldera of Lombok Island’s Mt. Rinjani from the Sembalun crater rim at sunset 1 A three-wheeled bajai, a common sight on the streets of Jakarta 2 A demon figure in the Sacred Monkey Forest in Ubud, Bali 3 Man examining a batik at a gallery in Jokjakarta, Java 4

4 Boat on the shore before a stormy sky in Pangandaran, South Java

am at the Indonesian Minist r y of Foreign Affairs in downtown Jakarta. Outside, the heat is unrelenting, and an endless stream of Kawasaki mopeds and three-wheeled bajais rattle down the thoroughfare. Inside, the AC is on full blast. I am sitting in a large conference room with the other journalists on this press trip. Across from us are Indonesian journalists and ministry officials, many wearing colorful batik, a traditional Indonesian fabric. We are listening to a presentation by Henky Manurung, head of the Subdirectorate for Tourism Investment of the Indonesia Ministry of Culture and Tourism. This is why we are here: to offer advice on how to bring more tourists to Indonesia. Despite the fact that Indonesia is a vast country with thousands of islands and more than 230 million citizens, its tourism figures are middling at best. Political unrest, a handful of terrorist attacks, and the resulting negative press in the middle of the last decade resulted in plummeting numbers of international tourists. Meanwhile regional rivals Thailand and Malaysia, despite being less than half the size of Indonesia, get more than twice the international tourists each year. Even tiny Singapore – a city state – has stronger figures. To counteract its disappointing showing, Indonesia has gone into tourism-upgrade mode. The country has angled to rebrand itself as a more desirable destination by coining the new slogan of “Wonderful Indonesia” and promoting MICE (meetings, incentives, conferencing, exhibitions) tourism and eco-tourism. Officials are also attempting to diversify the tourism market to reduce dependence on Bali, which is by far the country’s most popular vacation destination. In 2010, there were 2.49 million foreign visitors to Bali, almost one third of Indonesia’s total visitors. There are signs of progress, and Indonesia has bounced back from the dismal figures of the first half of the past decade. From a low of 4 million international visitors in 2003, the country recorded a record of 7.6 million in 2010. However, that’s still a far cry from neighbor Malaysia’s 2010 influx of 24.5 million people. As Henky summed it up, “We need so many investors, so many tourists to come to Indonesia.” With Bali tourism at full capacity, Indonesian government officials want tourists to start experiencing more of Indonesia’s diversity. Few countries can boast Indonesia’s rich tapestry of islands, cultures, cuisines, languages, and traditions. For every wave on Bali’s Kuta Beach, there is a living dragon on Komodo Island, a serpentine stream in the untouched rainforests of Kalimantan (Borneo), or an echo of the past like the blasted-out volcano of Krakatoa. On our trip, we visited three largely unknown sites currently under development, each of them in its own way as fascinating as better-known destinations. The plans for development at these spots are drawn up and the plots are for sale, but the resorts and investors have yet to come. It’s tourism, under construction. And that’s half of the charm.

T h e Lo n g a n d B u m p y R oa d Ta nj u ng L es u ng , Java

We drive west along the Jakarta-Merak toll road toward Tanjung Lesung on the west coast of Java. After we exit onto a local road, traffic slows as the well-paved asphalt of the highway gives way to a pothole-pitted surface with abrupt speed bumps and piles of sand. Five hours out of Jakarta, with the sun below the horizon, we reach 10 Magazine February 2012 | 21

Asi an Desti nation the resort area. We are in front of Kalicaa Villa, one of the resort’s two accommodations. The darkness conceals the ocean, but we can hear the waves gently breaking on the beach just out of sight as we enter a straw-thatched pavilion. As we dine on a buffet of succulent soups, beef satay, and vegetables marinated in peanut sauce, we watch an indigenous Debus performance – a magic show, of sorts. A gnarled old man and woman, along with their young assistants, perform spell-binding, gut-wrenching tricks: hammering a large iron nail into their stomachs, slashing their arms and necks with knives, and setting a burning coconut on a girl’s head - while stirfrying rice above it. The next day brings a boat tour of the Tanjung Lesung Beach Resort. The 1,500 hectares of developable land in the resort are largely empty. Currently, in addition to the Kalicaa Villa, there’s a four-star hotel, a beach club, and a sailing club. Slightly further afield is Ujung Kulon National Park, the only remaining habitat of the endangered Javan Rhinoceros, and Krakatau Volcano, whose 1883 eruption killed thousands and was heard thousands of miles away. Much of this information I learn later, reading the brochure – the tour guide’s voice can hardly be heard over the roar of the motorboat’s engines. Our next stop at Tanjung Lesung is the sailing club. The owner is a tall, tanned Englishman named David who has spent the past 50 years in Asia. David relates the long-running plans to attract tourists and residents to the region by constructing an airport, a 300-berth marina, a university. All have been delayed by a string of upheavals – changes in government, the tsunami, the recession. Despite this, his sailing club survives with patronage from expat businessmen, diplomats, and well-to-do Indonesians. 1 2 3 4

Sunset from the jetty of the Togian Island Retreat in central Sulawesi A traditional wedding procession blocking a road on south Lombok Island A monkey in the Sacred Monkey Forest in Ubud, Bali Off-shore view of the lighthouse on Lengkuas Island, near Belitung

22 10 Magazine February 2012

Oa sis i n t h e O c e a n Ta nj u ng Pa n da n , B e l i t u ng I s l a n d

The next day, we head to another of Indonesia’s untapped treasures: Belitung Island, located 45 minutes by air from Jakarta in the strait between Sumatra and Kalimantan. From the airport, we are shuttled to the Billiton Hotel and Klub. The distinguished building has history in abundance: it was first owned by a Chinese man named Ho, turned into a Dutch social gathering hall called the Societeit, and in the 1950s became the Government’s tin mining company office. The hotel preserves its past: the Toapekong, or Chinese place of worship, can still be seen today inside the hotel grounds alongside the old Dutch ballroom. Over brunch, we learn more about the island. Largely unknown, the island’s one claim to fame is that it was the shooting location for scenes from the (largely unknown) upcoming film The Philosophers, starring (also largely unknown) British actress Bonnie Wright. The bulk of the island’s inhabitants and attractions are crowded into Tanjung Pandan, the town on the east side of the island. Though most of the hundreds of hectares of land slated for development are still awaiting buyers, there are ample hotels and restaurants, as well as eco-friendly tourist activities such as snorkeling, kayaking, cycling, and horseback riding. But instead of seeing more of the city, we are herded aboard a small blue-painted motorboat. On the water, we pass by curious rock formations as we gaze at the emerald waves and doze on the sun-warmed planks of the boat. About an hour later, we reach Lengkuas Island, which houses a tall white lighthouse built by the Dutch in the 19th century. On the island, several Indonesian families are picnicking on the beach, but no foreign tourists are to be seen. There is no music playing or products for sale, nothing but the waves lapping on the beach, the swaying palm trees, and the lighthouse stretching above our heads. We enter the lighthouse and climb up, floor after floor, until we reach the top. The only thing to be seen around the lonely islet is the wide expanse of the Java Sea.

B a l i by A n y O t h e r N a m e M a n da l ik a R es o r t, Lo m b o k I s l a n d

From Belitung, we fly through Jakarta on our way to Lombok. A few months after we leave, Lombok’s new international airport will open. But when we arrive, we land on a small runway at the eastern city of Mataram and pass through a terminal smaller than most elementary school classrooms. We do visit the construction site of the international airport, a shell with flooring and girders, and no planes. Construction has so far taken seven years. In addition to the new airport, the southern part of the island is the site of the Mandalika Resort, a 1,249-hectare area managed by the Bali Tourism Development Corporation. This is the staterun company that transformed the Nusa Dua area in south Bali into the cluster of 5-star resorts it is today. The Mandalika resort on Lombok stretches across five beaches, but at present the only resort that is open is the Novotel Lombok Beach Resort. The local authorities in Lombok find themselves stuck in a quandary: Lombok has all of the beauty of Bali with none of the hordes of tourists (and tourist traps). As our Lombok tour guide told us, “If you can find something in Bali, you can find it on Lombok, but what you find in Lombok isn’t always in Bali.” But of course there has to be some kind of infrastructure in place to help travelers locate, access, and enjoy the island’s charms. Lombok officials are trying to preserve the natural splendor through strict regulations: each building must be 100 meters from the beach, there can be no tall buildings. The persistence of the old ways here is, from one point of view, inconveniencing. But it is also picturesque. Lombok seems to exist in the past—Bali, only 30 years ago, our guide intones. Instead of the constant stream of cars, we see horse-drawn carts hauling goods to the weekly market. While modern architecture has made inroads, some villages maintain the traditional way of life of the indigenous Sasak people with their thatched houses. We visit a workshop of women weaving tablecloths and scarves on wooden looms – it can take as long as two months to complete a single piece. On our drive back to the airport, we are even delayed by a traditional wedding procession, with hundreds of villagers escorting the joyous bride and groom along the road. Our bus moves slowly, but we are too absorbed in the procession to notice. B a l i at L a s t

From Lombok, a short flight to Bali lands us in the middle of tourism central. Our two days on “The Island of the Gods” are, in many ways, more relaxing and more pleasant than our previous stops. No more long rides on bumpy roads. No more smoke breaks at neglected truck stops, and no more motorboats. Instead, we tour ritzy resorts in the Nua Dusa development on the southern tip of Bali like the Club Med, the Westin, and the Bali International Convention Centre (this last one a subtle reminder that a substantial number of Indonesia’s visitors come for business, not for pleasure). We wander around the Garuda Wisnu Kencana Cultural Park to see fragments of the still uncompleted statue of Hindu god Vishnu riding the mythical bird Garuda. We sneak by sandal-stealing monkeys at Uluwatu Temple to see the Kecak Ramayana and Fire Dance at sunset. And we pay an obligatory visit to Kuta Beach on the morning before we leave. If Lombok is Bali thirty years ago, then Bali is Lombok thirty years from now. It has the appeal of well-developed transportation, numerous amenities, and armfuls of tourist pamphlets. It even has its own magazine, called hellobali. But it lacks something that persists in Tanjung Lesung, Belitung, and Lombok. It lacks the naïve innocence, the awkward charm, of less-traveled places. Development, when it comes, will be a step forward, but for many travelers, a step back into a vanished time is the ultimate adventure. 10 Magazine February 2012 | 23

A Mexican Food Fiesta Ko re a’ s Top 10 M e x ic a n R e stau r a n t s

Words by Jyoung-ah Kim

Mexican food in Korea has come a long way, baby. “Are you a Mexican or a Mexican’t?” Johnny Depp’s words from Once Upon a Time in Mexico seemed all too appropriate when I started this project to find out just how far we’d come in Korea from the collapse of Taco Bell in the 90s to its return last year. I managed to compile a relatively large list of places that had promise, but as I travelled around, to my despair, I realized many had closed down: The Taco in Gangnam, Casa Loca in Yeouido, and Taco Chido’s in Hongdae, to name a few. (Pancho’s in Itaewon also closed recently, but let’s face it—any foodie worth their nachos wouldn’t have graced its doors.) But despite my frustration, I did manage to find new places that had appeared to fill the void, and let me tell you: the future is exciting. So where can you find the best Mexican food in Korea? The answer is my house, but since that is not an open invitation, I’ve rustled up a list of places you can hit when you have a hankerin’ for some South of the Border fixin’s. The “Best of” Breakdown Vatos Urban Tacos Best Burrito: Gusto Taco Best Enchilada: Taco Amigo Best Guacamole: Taco Rico, On the Border Best Salsa: Vatos Urban Tacos Best Margarita: Vatos Urban Tacos, On the Border Best Taco:

24 10 Magazine February 2012 2011

Taco Be l l

10 9

It’s back and for a reason! No, we do not consider Taco Bell to be Mexican food in Texas, or anywhere else for that matter. The brown mush doesn’t look like meat, but that’s not the reason why we like it and keep going back for more. It’s because when we douse vinegary hot sauce on those cheap tacos filled with meat-substitute and plastic cheese, it somehow hits the spot, bringing us warm memories of home and childhood. tacobellkorea.com 02-749-6696 127-27, Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

D os Tacos

One of the last standing of the first generation of Korean Taco joints, Dos Tacos still delivers on what Mexican food should look and taste like. However, they lack the quality of meat and cater to Korean tastes with shredded cabbage and cold squeezed yellow cheese, so it’s lower on the list. The best location is Gangnam—the other spots just don’t live up to the original. dostacos.co.kr 02-593-5904 #104 Dessian Luv, 1303-35 Seochodong, Seoul (13 other locations including Hongdae and Jongno)

H e l l o S t e a k & Taco

8 7 6 G r i l l 5 Taco

G ue st su bm i s sion by Br yce Wei bley OK, it’s not the catchiest name for a Mexican restaurant, but this cozy joint in Haeundae New Town lets the food serve as the hook. The proprietor, Moon Brooks, brings 20 years of cooking experience in the U.S. to this top choice for Mexican in Busan, and it shows. From enchiladas to steak to tostadas, Hello Steak & Taco cooks up some tasty fare at reasonable prices. Wash it all down with pitchers of blended makkeoli (rice wine) cocktails.

They’ve brought the fad from Cali of marrying the Korean kimchi and pepper paste flavors with Mexican food, and it’s not bad. I would say they definitely lean more toward the Korean flavors than the Mexican flavors I craved. Nevertheless, they pull it off well. It’s different and worth a try. In particular, have a go at their kimchi quesadillas. grill5.tistory.com twitter.com/grill5taco 519-13 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

051-701-5199 202 Sejong World Plaza, 1479-3 Jwa-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan

Taco R i co

5 2 1

They have great ideas on the menu and good execution of the dishes, but the lack of quality in their meats and ingredients left me a little disappointed. The horchatas and margaritas are true to their taste and the guacamole was impressive with large chunks of avocadoes. It helps that the main chef is from Mexico. Also, check out their queso fundido (mushroom and chorizo fondue). 02-558-4525 818-8, Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

On the Border

It breaks my heart that I am putting a chain that I would never patronize back home so high up on the list, but it must be done and y’all know why. Bottom line is, the food is good, the margaritas fulfill their duty, and it’s a comfortable place to sit with a group of friends. True, it is pricey. Well, at least you get unlimited good salsa and homemade tortilla chips!

Taco A m igo

I remember when they first opened and I was not impressed, but I’m very happy that I went back. They’ve got the most authentic Mexican cuisine; the owner said that they often cater to the Mexican embassy, and I can believe it. Their menu proves it with mole, tamales and tortilla soup. Biting into their enchiladas took me straight back to Casa Tia’s. Good vegetarian options, too. 02-749-5253 130-34, Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

T omat i l l o

Someone mentioned Tomatillo is just a lower grade of Chipotle, but that lower grade is above par in Korea. They have better ingredients such as shredded pork and homemade roasted salsa compared to the first round of Mexican restaurant attempts, and they have a spacious, comfortable interior. They definitely cater to the business lunch crowds with changing lunch specials, ranging from affordable fajita platters to taco platters with beans and rice. tomatillo.co.kr 02-2112-3883 B1 Gangnam Finance Center, Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (other locations in Gwanghwamun and Itaewon)

G u sto Taco

With every bite into their taco or burrito, you can taste the painstaking hours the owner put into developing the rich tastes and recipes through sourcing quality ingredients and slow-cooking the meats. The owner proudly mentioned that he does not use any ground meat and he is constantly bettering the homemade tortilla recipe. While the small, four-stool interior gives off a fast food ambience, the food is anything but. gustotaco.com 02-3142-8226 342-16, Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

Shot by Troy Zitzelsberger

ontheborder.co.kr 02-2672-0682 #B112 Times Square, Yeongdeungpo-dong 4-ga, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Seoul (other locations in Sinchon, Apgujeong, COEX)

Vatos U r ba n Tacos

Three boyz from the US saw a need and decided to do something about it with quality ingredients and culinary art skills. Because it’s so new, they are still changing and perfecting the menu. As of my visit, they’re serving traditional carne asada tacos with homemade tortillas you could find on the streets of Mexico alongside more innovative options such as samgyeopsal tacos and kimchi fries. As strange as it may sound, it works, and it works damn well! vatoskorea.com 02-797-8226 66-8 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

10 Magazine February 2012 | 25

Passionate about Pad Thai

Ko re a’ s Top 10 T h a i R e stau r a n t s Words by Birgit Rappold and shots by John Stoops Perhaps Korean food’s spiciest rival: Thai. 10 introduces you to the best places to challenge your taste buds. If you are a spicy food lover like I am, you should be in heaven in Korea: Kimchi and Co. normally do a great job of satisfying your taste buds. But what about those times when you get tired of Korean cuisine, or just need a little change in how you spice up your life? Thai food is a great substitute as Thais share your passion for fiery food. With the difficulties of importing original Thai ingredients, it was quite an adventure to see how restaurants tried to create the authentic Thai experience.

10 9

B u dd h a’s Be l ly

26 10 Magazine February 2012

An ideal location in the heart of Itaewon. After climbing up the small wooden steps to the second floor, you enter into a warm and inviting abode. Head for the round booths to your right as the couches at the windows can get uncomfortable after a while. The menu is full of typical Thai fare like satay, curries and phad thai. I had a tom yum gung (spicy sour prawn soup). It was tasty and pretty spicy, but too much soup and not enough gung. However, you’re in Itaewon with many options for Round 2. 02-796-9330 119-7 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Z e n H id e away

A charming atmosphere and a good intro to Thai food if you’re not yet a spicy food lover. The menu is a fusion of Thai, Italian and Japanese. Everyone will find something to please their palate. Mix spicy with sweet by trying their gaeng pet ped (red duck curry). The roasted shallots and sweet pineapple pieces will help to balance the spiciness of the red curry. zenhideaway.com 02-3141-1461 408-3 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

Pattaya

8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Very tasty set dinners for the indecisive. The flavors are mouthwatering and the pad thai was almost perfect –just missing the lime. They do a remarkable gai pad preaw wan (sweet and sour chicken) with lots of veggies. It’s one of those tangy spicy dishes that keeps you craving more and more. The chefs are Thai, and you can taste it! ipattaya.co.kr 02-793-4888 116-14 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

T h a i O rc h id

L i tt l e T h a i

The decor of this place is very Thai, providing a lovely atmosphere despite the hustle and bustle of the crowd. The food is pretty good, but not great. Their tom yam gung soup is rich and zesty with lots of fresh shrimp. The yum nua (beef salad) is a tasty fusion of Thai and Korean. On the other hand, the pad thai is too sweet and misses the balance of green lime. The set menus are good value. littlethai.kr 02-318-1991 B1 Finance Center, 100-768 Taepyeong-no 1-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul

T h a i Nood l e

Come here to experience true Thai street food. Enjoy how the wok-fried chilies from the open kitchen start to tickle your nose and nick your throat until tears are welling up in your eyes - and you haven’t even started eating yet! Order a gai phat met mamuang (stir-fried chicken with cashew nuts): the food itself is not too spicy but in true street-stall style there are all the ingredients on the counter you need to add the right amount of hotness, tartness and sweetness to satisfy every craving. 02-749-9585 210-68 Itaewon 2 dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Don’t be fooled by the plastic dishes on display at the restaurant entrance. It’s not a tourist trap as their food is authentically Thai. I had a wonderful tom yum talay (spicy sour soup with seafood). It was taste-bud-teasingly hot and packed with seafood, a reason in its own to come again. The other dish that will bring me back is my favorite Thai dessert: the kanom sankaya (steamed pumpkin filled with custard). Sweet and rich and yummy! 02-795-3338 736-9 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Thai Garden

* Images provided by Thai Garden

The proud holder of the title “First Thai Restaurant in Korea (1996).” The menu is vast to a point that I had to go with a set menu as I couldn’t decide what not to order. I was happy as can be as the set included a delicious spicy gai phat met mamuang with succulent chicken pieces and a zesty tom yum gung soup with lots of fresh prawns. The finishing touch was an authentic sakhu (tapioca pearls in sweetened coconut milk with sweet corn and red beans). Simply delicious! thaigarden.co.kr 02-792-8836 3F 737-24 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Wa n g T h a i

They have a killer tom yum gung soup and an outstanding pad thai, one of the more difficult dishes to get right as it often tastes way too sweet. Also enjoyable was their yum som tam (green papaya salad), a dish that has to be seriously spicy and it was. Traditionally, it would come with Thai sticky rice to cool you down, but you can’t have it all. wangthai.kr 02-749-2746 F/3 Younghwa Bldg. Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

After the Rain is currently closed and will be reopening for business in April.

A f t e r t h e Ra i n

This place is quite unique in finding creative ways to offer true Thai dishes. With my eyes closed, the yum som o (Thai pomelo salad) tasted just like the original, but it didn’t look like it at all. But who cares? It was sweet and spicy and had a hint of coconut and a mountain of fresh shrimp on it. I loved the gaeng goong (shrimp red curry). None of the original Thai veggies were to be found, but it tasted amazing and who would have thought that pumpkin is a great substitute for Thai eggplant. Sorry to say, it’s quite on the pricey side.

Yum Thai

This place has it all: fun-loving Thai waiters, a vast menu, a buzzing atmosphere, and hot spicy food. Bring lots of friends so you can order loads of dishes and taste them all. We had an amazing pla sam rod (spicy triple flavor fish) beautifully presented and fiery hot! To cool off your screaming taste buds, they offer real homali Thai rice and cheaply priced Singh or Chang beer. Chok dee! 02-594-7988 5-4 Nonhyeon-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

atrain.co.kr 02-3446-9375 F/4 Art Bldg., 92-16 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 10 Magazine February 2012 | 27

Nirvana in a Bowl

Korea’s Top 10 Indian Re staurants Words by Jason Strother, shots by Dylan Goldby* There’s no clear path to nirvana. However, there is one guaranteed way to achieve earthly satisfaction: a really great bowl of curry. There’s no shortage of Indian food in Korea, but it can be tough to separate the authentic restaurants from the posers. Indian joints are also great repositories for lamb, which isn’t so easy to come by here. Noth’n beats mutton. So break out the sitar and start banging on your table: here’s a list of the best places in Seoul, plus one in Ilsan, where you can load up on some amazing Indian eats. Roya l I n di a

10 9 8

G ue st su bm i s sion by D ave H a z za n The place for excellent and cheap Indian in Ilsan remains Royal India in LaFesta. Check out the fabulous bottomless lunch special, which includes two curries (usually chicken makhni and aloo palak), tandoori drumsticks, vegetable biryani, nan, and salad, for W9000. A similar dinner set with choice of curry costs W20,000. Try it with the fabulous saag ghost, butter chicken, chicken tikka masala or palak paneer. They have beer and wine, but do the right thing and wash it down with soju.

031-816-6692 LaFesta F-207, 761 Janghang-dong, Ilsan-gu, Goyang-si, Gyeonggi-do

10 Magazine February 2012

G a n ga

The first thing that will clue you in that Ganga serves a heavily Korean clientele is the bowl of pickles that accompanies your curry. But don’t let that detract from your experience here. As far as Indian food goes, Ganga is a Seoul institution. If you visit their Finance Center branch don’t even imagine getting a table without a reservation during lunch or dinner hours. And unless you’re paying with the company credit card, expect to shell out a bit more cash than you would at other locations. So if you’re like me, you’ll pick the cheapest curry on the menu: dal bukhara (lentil beans in a creamy herb sauce) for W16,000. ganga.co.kr 02-3783-0610 B2 84 Taepyeongno 1-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Namast e

Anyone who’s ever taken a beginner yoga course knows that “namaste” means “welcome” in languages all over the subcontinent. That includes Nepal, which is helpful since this, as well as many other Indian restaurants in Seoul, is run by Nepalese. And if you ever wanted to dress up like a sherpa, there’s an adjacent shop where you can buy all sorts of Nepalese garb. Namaste is very cozy and specializes in southern Indian cuisine, which is a bit spicier and less creamy than northern variations. Lunch Set A: W15,000. namasterestaurant.co.kr 02-2232-2286 2F 316-2 Songin-dong, Jungbo-gu, Seoul

D u rga

7 6

Mention even the mere word “lamb” to a Korean friend and you will likely see a look of disgust. That’s because many locals say lamb “smells bad.” Try to convince them this affront to their olfactory sense might not have the same effect on their taste buds. Take them to Durga where eight different lamb curries appear on the menu. You can also go barbecue. The nan here is fantastic, too - so warm and moist you’ll want to be ensconced in it. Lamb tandoori: W22,000; Plain nan: W2,000. durga.co.kr 02-733-4786 2F 42 Jongno 1-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Ta j Pa l ac e

Shanti

H i ma l aya n

02-6052-3989 2F 47-18 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

himalayanrest.com 02-3672-1566 3F 293-5 Jangshin-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

So you’re heading out to Hongdae to get your groove on and you need some fuel to get your inner flame burning. Before you hit the dance floor, drop by Shanti for some spicy vindaloo. This has gotta be the stuff that Dhalsim ate to build up his Yoga Fire. You might need to wash that down with a cool mango lassi. Everything here is reasonably priced. That’s good because you’ll need some extra cash for that lonely taxi ride home after last call. Lamb vindaloo: W12,000; mango lassi: W4,000.

Climbing to the highest peaks of the Himalayas is a lifelong ambition of many mountaineers. Ascending the three flights of stairs to the Himalayan restaurant is a challenge in its own right, too, but one that doesn’t require an oxygen mask. Once you get up there, you’ll realize your efforts were well worth it. Very rich and creamy Indian and Nepalese dishes as well as delicious nan and other breads. Shar shahi korma (mutton, milk, cashew nuts): W8,000; palak paneer (cottage cheese, spinach, tomato, onion): W8,000; paratha (whole wheat bread): W2000.

There are two things you need before you go to a buffet: a voracious appetite and a loose fitting pair of eat’n pants. Unlike other buffets that subtract in quality what they provide in quantity, Taj Palace’s will not let you down. The staff here say the food is similar to what the kings of India once dined on. I’m no gastronomist, but I doubt the great Mughals stood in line to scoop butter chicken out of aluminum trays. Saturday/Sunday dinner buffet: W17,500. tajpalace.co.kr 02-790-5786 2F 132-2 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Many of these restaurants have multiple branches in Seoul and other cities. To find all locations, give them a call or visit their website.

Chakra

3 2 1

Ask one of your new age, hippie friends to name you the seven world chakras. Depending on which self-help guru they ascribe to, they’ll run down a list that includes Jerusalem, Mecca, and Delhi. Look at them square in the eyes and say, “the only chakra that I need is in Hannam-dong - now go get a job.” Since this restaurant is located just down the street from the Indian Embassy, you can safely assume this is the real deal. Bring five of your closest friends who won’t run out on the bill and get the group set. Privileged group meal: W100,000. chakraa.co.kr 02-796-2255 B1 28-9 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Ta j

Lunch break in Korea starts at 12 pm and ends at 1 pm. So arrive at 1:01 pm and you and the statue of Lord Ganesh will have the entire restaurant to yourselves. That will allow you to peacefully enjoy the lunch set, which might be the best deal on Indian food in all of Seoul. That includes two curries, a small salad and a generous helping of nan. At the end of the meal the staff will bring you a small bowl of water. It’s for washing your hands and not meant to be drunk. Trust me, I know. Lunch Set A: W10,000. taj.co.kr 02-776-3463 B1 YMCA Bldg., 1-3 Myeong-dong 1-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul

Jai guru deva om—nothing’s gonna change your world like lamb simmered in herbs and spices. And fortunately, you don’t have to go across the universe to get it. Just to the far end of Samcheong-dong. Bring along your tantric yoga buddy and order the couple’s set. That includes nan, rice, samosa, salad, soup, tandoori chicken, two curries, lassies and a cheese dessert called gulab jamun. This will absolutely fill you up. Though that will make it difficult, if not dangerous, to strike all those Kama Sutra poses later on. Couple’s Set B: W50,000. omfood.kr 02-730-8848 2F 125-1 Daehwa Bldg., Samcheong-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

10 Magazine February 2012 | 29

E dited by J e n n i f e r K wo n and j i s u n moo n

+ = subject to 10% VAT, ++ = subject to 10% VAT and 10% service charge

Irodori’s Bento Lunchbox Delivery Service

Renaissance Seoul Hotel A delicious Japanese-style bento lunch box, prepared by master chefs, and delivered to you! That’s the latest promotion at the Renaissance Seoul Hotel’s Japanese restaurant Irodori, available through March 31st. Enjoy a variety of high-quality, nutritious items including appetizers, sashimi, braised fish or vegetables, grilled fish, assorted tempura and more. Delivery is available for orders of five boxes and up and is limited to Gangnam. W45,000++, W55,000++. renaissance-seoul.com 02-2222-8659

Bouquet, Chocolates, and Limousine Part of Valentine’s Dinner

Grand Hyatt Seoul Enjoy a very special gourmet dinner with that special someone at the Grand Hyatt Seoul’s Paris Grill. The package includes a number of options such as an exquisite, five-course meal, a bottle of champagne, a flower bouquet, chocolates from The Deli, and even limousine pick-up or drop-off service. The Romantic Valentine’s Day event will be available on February 14th. W440,000++ for two (additional charge for limousine). seoul.grand.hyatt.com 02-799-8161

Soo Spa Reveals Pleasures of Chocolate Massage Marriott Executive Apartments Soo Spa at the Marriott Executive Apartments in Yeouido is giving lovers a much sweeter way to make an impact with chocolate. For Valentine’s Day, the spa is offering a 100-minute Chocolate Mousse Delight treatment throughout February. Guests can enjoy a chocolate-chip scrub, body wrap and massage with cacao, sugar, coconut and creamy chocolate mousse for W160,000++. Get a discount for two (W280,000++). measeoul.com 02-2090-8070

Two Romantic Packages for Valentine’s Day

Forget the Cold with MoMo Café’s Decadent Dining Options

Courtyard Marriott Every evening this February holds the promise of haute cuisine and fine wine at reasonable prices. The Prime Dinner Course at MoMo Café, served from 5:30 to 9:30 pm, is made with only the choicest ingredients. The two four-course selections are The Modern Set (W65,000++), featuring grilled scallops in a gorgonzola sauce, and The Living Set (W68,000++), ideal for steak lovers. courtyardseoul.com 02-2638-3081 30 | 10 Magazine February 2012

Menus at Japanese and Chinese Restaurants Focus on Health

Imperial Palace Seoul This winter, stay in good health with dishes from Chinese restaurant Cheon San’s Memory 2011 Menu such as Chinese-style chives with shrimp, scallops, and beef (48,000++). Or visit Japanese restaurant Manyo for the Winter Puffer Fish Menu, which features different styles of the popular health food puffer fish. These lowcalorie, high-protein dishes include puffer skin, steamed puffer with liquor, hot-pot, and puffer sashimi. W80,000++ and up, through February 29th. imperialpalace.co.kr

W Seoul Walkerhill This cupid day, the W Seoul Walkerhill wants to help you with your romantic planning. With two overnight packages (W Dreams in Romance and Wedding Night: Who’s Tying the Knot), you can enjoy a wonderful room decorated in red and white. The package also includes a dinner course for two with trendy wine at contemporary Japanese restaurant Namu or casual dining restaurant Kitchen. Prices start at W300,000++. wseoul@whotels.com 02-2022-0000

10-10-10 Package Celebrates 10 Years of Trust

Oakwood Premier Coex Center Seoul Celebrating its 10th anniversary this year, the Oakwood Premier Coex Center presents the 10-10-10 Package during February, offering guests 10 benefits with exceptional rates from 10 years ago. The package includes breakfast for two, wireless internet in apartments, tickets to the movies or an art exhibition, admission to the sauna, a prize giveaway, and more. oakwoodpremier.co.kr 02-3466-7000

Winter at the Park, a Romantic Winter Getaway

Park Hyatt Seoul The Winter at the Park package is designed for those who want to relax and recharge while enjoying exceptional, personalized service in a luxury boutique hotel. The package includes a one-night stay in a luxurious guestroom, a bottle of red wine, a discount for breakfast at the hotel’s main restaurant and more. Starts at W330,000. Available through February 29th. seoul.park.hyatt.com

The Perfect Cityscape for You and Your Valentine

Winter Entertainment in the Middle of Seoul

Fraser Place Central Seoul You deserve some R&R, and the Fraser Place Central Seoul is giving you an affordable way to do so. The Winter Bed and Breakfast package for two costs W150,000++ to W220,000++. Along with a fabulous room, the package entitles you to a special gift, access to the gym, sauna, and indoor swimming pool, a discount coupon at the First Floor Restaurant, and drinks at the Residents Lounge. fraserplace.co.kr 02-2220-8000 10 Magazine February 2012 | 31

JW Marriott Seoul Head to the JW’s Grill for a special Valentine’s Day dinner. Guests will be shown to a “couple seat” with atmospheric lighting and an idyllic cityscape visible through the window. The meal consists of five courses, with tenderloin and fish among the available mains. A glass of Moet-Chandon champagne and wine is included with the dinner. Available throughout February, W150,000++. jw-marriott.co.kr 02-6282-6759

Expat News F ebruary 2012

Citi Card Premium Dining Offers 10% Discount at The Mixed One

Jaseng Clinic Recognized by Government Ministry, Academic Societies

Citibank Korea is offering all Citi Card customers 10% off at The Mixed One for a year starting from this past November 1st. Run by Edward Kwon, The Mixed One is a classy family restaurant located in the UN Village in Hannam-dong, Seoul. The restaurant, which prides itself on “modern Californian multi-cuisine,” offers various Asian and Western items at an affordable price. On weekdays, two types of set menus are served for lunch and dinner. Both include the Welcome Box (bread, olive and housemade pickle, house salad, daily special) with your choice of appetizer, soup, main and desserts. The weekend and holiday brunch menu, called Weekend Social All Day, is a brand-new concept with 20 chefs serving 40 dishes directly to customers. Customers can choose breakfast items and one of four main course options and order as much as they would like to eat. ekrestaurants.com 02-749-1423

Consisting of 15 domestic branch clinics as well as two overseas branches in the USA and staffed by 280 medical specialists, the Jaseng Hospital of Korean Eastern Medicine offers fine non-surgical treatment through a combination of Eastern and Western medicine. Its contributions to the field of medical work have been acknowledged recently by the Ministry of Health, Welfare and Family Affairs, with the hospital recognized as the only Korean Eastern hospital in Korea specializing in spine conditions. Jaseng medical care was also selected as the most effective non-surgical treatment backed by peer-reviewed research at the American Pain Society and the European Congress of Physical Rehabilitation Medicine in 2008. For the latest news, see the Jaseng hospital blog at blog.jaseng.net.

Shopping Frenzy Begins with Korean Grand Sale Shoppe r s of the world should take notice: the Visit Korea Committee has organized a nationwide grand sale, which will last through the end of February. Foreign residents and tourists can enjoy discounts ranging from 5% to 70% at various shopping malls, restaurants, hotels, and health and beauty establishments. About 21,000 companies and organizations are participating, including many popular brands. For information on how you can take advantage of the discounts, please see koreagrandsale.or.kr. 051-888-8221

Free Buses to Busan and Jeonju Extended Through 2012 The free bus service for foreigners connecting Seoul with Korea’s southern cities of Busan and Jeonju will continue through 2012, the Visit Korea Committee recently announced. Previous users of the service should note that several changes have been made. First, the route from Seoul to Gyeongju has been discontinued. Second, the Paradise Hotel Busan in Haeundae has been dropped from the Seoul-Busan route. Third, on the Seoul-Jeonju route, a new 40-seat bus will be provided to accommodate the increased number of tourists to Jeonbuk for the Visit Jeonbuk Year 2012. For detailed information on the bus routes, please visit english.visitkoreayear.com or e-mail korea_en@chesstours.co.kr. 32 | 10 Magazine February 2012

Edited by J essica Lee and J en n i f er K won

Foreign Tourists Enjoy Up to 30% Off on KTX Tickets Through December 2012, foreign tourists can receive discounts of up to 30% on KTX tickets. To promote the Visit Korea 2012 campaign, the Visit Korea Committee and Korail Tourism Development are slashing prices on all routes along the Gyeongbu (Se oul- Busan) and Honam (Seoul-Mokpo) lines. To purchase online tickets, visit the Visit Korea Year website (visitkoreayear.com). Note that discounts do not apply for trips during Chuseok (Korean Thanksgiving, 9/29 – 10/1 of this year). Tickets must be booked 10 to 30 days before departure, and they may be canceled up to three days prior to departure for a 20% fee. All foreign nationals are eligible for the discount.

M-Pass Transit Card Gives Full Access to Seoul Subway Lines Foreigners can now purchase a new subway pass called the Metropolitan Pass, or “M-Pass,” at visitor information booths located at the Incheon International Airport. With the card, tourists can enjoy unlimited access to Seoul subway lines 1-9, Incheon subway, Incheon Airport railroad and other subway lines in Gyeonggi Province (up to 20 trips a day). One, two, three, five, and seven-day passes are available, ranging in price from W10,000 to W59,500 (plus a W5,000 deposit). When the pass is exhausted, it can be returned to any tourist information booth or GS convenience store for refund of the deposit.

Seoul Arts Center Launches User-Friendly Website The Seoul Arts Center has just unveiled a new web site for foreigners who are either living in Korea or planning to visit the country. The new web site, www.sacticket.co.kr, is simple and easy to use, allowing customers to buy a ticket without complicated registration steps such as entering an alien registration number, becoming members of the site, or downloading Active X online transaction security programs. Those who are planning to visit Korea can also book tickets using overseas credit cards and use browsers like Safari, Firefox and Google Chrome instead of IE Explorer. Visitors should note that as of January 18th the main English page is inexplicably in Korean. For English-language event information, click on “Program.”

10 Magazine February 2012 | 33

IN THE KITCHEN Tabom’s head chef Bira fuses his passion for Brazilian food and Korea to create authentic Brazilian BBQ for meat-lovers and adventurous diners.

hef Ubiratan Dalposso Belló wields a metre-long steel shaft skewered with golden-brown hunks of chicken. “When you cook, you should cook with love.” And enjoy yourself, it seems, as Belló, or Bira, as he prefers to be called, gives another wide grin. Bira is head chef at Tabom Brazil, a stylish 2nd-floor churrascaria (Brazilian BBQ) off Itaewon’s high street. Chef Bira prides himself in the art of grilled meats, but he has another mission: serving Brazilian food that appeals to Korean diners without getting lost in translation. Bira comes from Santa Catarina in the south of Brazil. When asked how he mastered his art, he shrugs. “Where I come from, everyone has a BBQ at the back of the house. You just get a feel for it.” He started cooking at the tender age of 13. As he explains, “My parents were busy working, so I used to do breakfast and lunch for my little brother. Stuff like fried rice. I didn’t have to, but it was fun.” Enjoyment and cooking seem inextricably linked in Bira’s mind. “I learned to smile from my grandma. And the cooking I saw at home was just fun; lots of singing and joking.” His professional career started while still in his mid-teens at his aunt’s restaurant, usually a couple of hours late at night after school. But for the last three years, he has honed his culinary skills in Korea. When Tabom opened in October of last year, he took the helm as head chef. “One of the biggest challenges is to adjust my recipes in Brazil for people here in Korea, while still keeping it Brazilian. Take vinagrete, which I like to think of as Brazilian-style kimchi. At Tabom, I add some sugar to the vinagrete, because the original is

a little sour for the Korean palate.” He also uses less salt than back in Brazil for some dishes. Aside from his mastery of the grill, he serves up dishes that introduce diners at Tabom to a wider range of Brazilian food. “People love meat in Korea. But we also serve other Brazilian food,” he adds. “People try it and, surprise, they like something new, something Brazilian.” “Something new” includes Brazilian chicken soup and Brazilian stroganoff, as well as classic feijoada, a bean stew made with various cuts of meat. Bira is as passionate about Korean food as he is about his own cooking. But as a master of the BBQ, his favorite Korean dish comes as less of a surprise: samgyeopsal (grilled pork-belly). When asked what he wants to do in the future, he pauses, then says, “I’d like to teach other people how to cook Brazilian food in Korea.” Surely good news for diners who want to take another bite of real Brazilian cuisine.

The Real Taste of Brazilian BBQ W o r d s a n d sh ot s by Vau g h a n Wa l l is

Chef Bira’s Vinagrete (for 8 people) • • • •

2 tomatoes 1 green bell pepper 1 yellow bell pepper 3 onions

• • • •

2 tsp. of sugar 3 tsp. of salt 25 ml of vinegar 40 ml of olive oil

Finely chop all the vegetables. Mix together with the salt, sugar, vinegar, and olive oil. 3 Leave for 15 minutes. 2

34 10 Magazine February 2012

Chef’s tip:

Vinagrete is a relish of chopped tomato, onions and bell peppers dressed in a little vinegar, olive oil, and salt. It is traditionally served with meat, but - like kimchi - goes well with just about anything. Make it in advance to allow the flavors to fully combine.

What’s New in the Itaewon Food Scene Words by Dav i d Carru t h, shots by K at h y Li m

10 brings you the latest info on new restaurants, bars, salons, and other essential establishments in Seoul’s Itaewon district.

Zzu Zzu Bba Bba 쭈쭈빠빠

Lounge

The partitioned tables to the side accommodate an intimate tête-à-tête, while the open area is just right for dancing if you’re in the mood. Look for the huge metal door in Gyeongnidan between Bao and Concorde. Recommended: dancing to the DJ’s tunes 1F, 658 Itaewon-dong. 02-793-8833

Cot tage Cafe Borie

American seafood & grill

This New York-style bistro and café has two things to say about its ingredients—they’re fresh and they’re in season. After dinner, indulge in one of the six beers on tap. Recommended: Surf & Turf, Assorted Mussel and Clam Stew 1F, 118-23 Itaewon-dong. cafeborie.com 02-6012-3383

Aligato

Japanese sushi lounge

There’s a DJ, so it’s a lounge. And there are rows of vodka bottles, so it’s a bar. There’s also sushi cooked by tall chefs, and private rooms for business meetings, so it’s a restaurant, too. Recommended: sushi 112-3 Itaewon-dong. 02-795-1533

Burn

Lounge and cigar bar

Head up the Gyeongnidan road and look for Burn on your left to find Korea’s first cigar lounge that’s open to the public. Even if you’re new to the art, affordable cigars are on hand to get you started. Recommended: cigars and scotch 2F, 305-7 Itaewon-dong. 02-794-8077

Bl ack Paprik a

Tempura

Attention: this is not your average tempura. This addition to the Hamilton back alley wants to show you that fried food can be a delicacy. Recommended: Kkusikaseu 12 (tempura sampler) 118-17 Itaewon-dong. 02-794-5414 10 Magazine February 2012 | 35

Gastronomic News Edited by J essica Lee and J en n i f er K won

F ebruary 2012

Live Showing of Superbowl and Other Events at Yaletown Yaletown, one of Sinchon’s most popular expat bars, is here for football fans. The bar’s Superbowl party starts at 8 am on February 6th with an American-style breakfast ready to keep you fueled throughout the game. But

• • • • • •

the fun doesn’t have to end when the teams troops of f the field. Yaletown has daily specials that keep the party going all week long. 02-333-1604 • S u n d ay Bud Day - 400cc Bud W3,500. M o n d ay Wing Night - W400/wing. T u e s d ay Sliders Night - 3+1 on mini burgers. W e d n e s d ay Bottomless Fries Night – get all-you-can-eat fries with your burger. T h u r s d ay Student Night – students get a free beer with the purchase of a burger. F r i d ay Shot Night - selected shots for W3,000. S at u r day Vodka Night – a bottle of Russian Vodka for only W39,000.

Mul Dwinda, a New Kind of Makgeollli Bar M ul D w in d a (물 뛴다), l o c a te d n e a r Chungjeongno Station in Seoul, is a makgeolli house that’s tr ying to do things a little differently. Managed by Jo Hyojin, director of Korean liquormaking academy Susubori Academy, Mul Dwinda offers pumpkin pajeon, fried oysters and lotus root sesame soup for anju (snacks to go with alcohol), all made with fresh ingredients from the countryside. In addition to the food menu, the establishment is proud of its unique layout and unusual seating options. Those interested not just in drinking makgeolli but also in learning how to brew their own batches of the rice wine can take introductory classes, of fe re d in Englis h a n d Ko re a n, at Susubori Academy. Mul Dwinda: 3-12 Chungjeong-ro 3 ga, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul. muldwinda.com 02-392-4200

Big News and Big Events at High Street Market Itaewon deli High Street Market is giving you some good reasons to help it celebrate its first anniversary. Shop for all your favorite products found in the meat, wine, bread, and dairy sections and leave your business card to be entered to win great prizes. There are over 20 items to win, including air fare to popular vacation destination Bali and a 4-night stay at a villa. Also, when you visit High Street Market’s new website (highstreet. co.kr) you can find out more about sales and events. Any orders over W100,000 will get you free delivery. 02-790-5450

Noxa Launches Drink Deals and Bring-YourOwn-Wine Sundays Noxa Lounge, a Gyeongnidan restaurant that draws in customers with its home-style Italian cuisine, is offering diners some attractive promotions. Every day between 5 pm and 1 am, guests who order a pitcher of Filipino beer San Miguel can get a bowl of seasoned chips. If wine is more your thing, you can buy a bottle to receive a free cheese platter. Noxa is also making it easier to make use of some of your private stock with its BringYour-Own-Wine Night, starting Sundays at 7 pm. Order a main dish and corkage is waived on wine (limited to one bottle). noxalounge@naver.com 02-790-0776

Sample 14 Draft Beers at “Chic Pub” Prost Say “prost” (the German equivalent of “cheers”) at the pub Prost, located on the first floor of Itaewon’s new cultural complex District. Unlike most pubs that focus on offering a casual atmosphere, newly-opened Prost lets visitors relax in style. With 14 beers on tap, the pub will bring excitement to your night of drinking and delight your taste buds. Along with the beers, an ample variety of delicious dishes including fries, pasta and steak will be served. When you’re ready to take the party to another location, check out the luxury lounge and funky nightclub located just below Prost. mykinc.com 02-792-6164 36 | 10 Magazine February 2012

Treasures from the Ukraine Scythian Gold of the Steppes Through February 26th • Mix Hellenistic Greek art and Asian nomadic goldsmithery and what do you get? The answer lies in these Ukrainian relics of the Scythian empire. Dominating the steppe region northeast of the Black Sea from the 7th to 3rd centuries BCE, their influence spread from Greece to the Far East and preceded the Mongols and the Huns. While their empire is forgotten, what remains today is their finely crafted golden relics, pieces from their battle gear and treasures from burial mounds not unlike those found here in Korea. Continued on page 44. NATIONWIDE 38 • SEOUL 42 • GaNGwon PROVINCE 59 • GYEONGGI PROVINCE 60 CHUNGCHEONG PROVINCE 62 • JEOLLA PROVINCE 63 • GYEONGSANG PROVINCE 64 JEJU ISLAND 66 • NETWORKING CALENDAR 67

Movies

by Pa u l M at t he w s

Sherlock Holmes: A Game Of Shadows Directed by Guy Ritchie

The Adventures of Tintin: The Secret of the Unicorn Directed by Steven Spielberg I’ve been a huge fan of Tintin ever since I was a small ginger-haired boy, so the prospect of a Spielberghelmed motion capture adaptation of Belgium’s most famous boy detective had me quivering in anticipation. I read every one of Herge’s books over and over again as a child and going into the film I was both excited and worried that my cherished memories might be besmirched by the heavy hand of Hollywood. Scriptwriters Steven Moffat (Doctor Who), Edgar Wright (Shaun of the Dead) and Joe Cornish (Attack the Block) have molded together three of Tintin’s most famous storylines describing the search for the secret of the Unicorn, a legendary ship helmed by the ancestor of Captain Haddock. Tintin and his faithful dog Snowy set about discovering the truth. I’m happy to say that my worries were completely unfounded. Spielberg has created an old-fashioned action adventure that manages to tickle your funny bone, keep you on the edge of your seat, and delight fans of Herge and newcomers equally. Jamie Bell does well as the titular Tintin, but it’s Andy Serkis who steals the show as the rum-soaked old sea dog, Captain Haddock. 38 | 10 Magazine February 2012

This sequel to the 2009 blockbuster movie brings us back together with Robert Downey Jr.’s Sherlock Holmes and Jude Law’s Dr. Watson as they find themselves neck deep in another Victorian mystery. This time they are joined by Noomi Rapace as Madame Simza Heron, a mysterious gypsy fortuneteller, and Stephen Fry as Mycroft, Sherlock Holmes’ older, smarter and sometimes naturist brother. Europe is on the verge of war and it’s up to Holmes and Watson to avert disaster. However, they may have met their match in the form of Professor James Moriarty (Jared Harris), who decides to engage Holmes and Watson in a very dangerous game. Director Guy Ritchie once again brings his own flair to Victorian England and in parts the film really entertains, providing some spectacular period action sequences. Despite these moments of excitement, Sherlock Holmes: A Game Of Shadows sags in places, never quite matching the invention and enjoyment of the first film. A pleasant diversion, but an ultimately unsatisfying addition to the Sherlock Holmes canon.

The Foul King 반칙왕 Directed by Kim Ji-woon

Classics of Korean Cinema

Before hitting the big time w it h st ylish act ion e pics like A Bittersweet Life and The Good, the Bad and the Weird, Kim Ji-woon started off his career making films about murderous families and semi-professional wrestling. If you’re in the mood for murder then check out The Quiet Family, but if you want something a little lighter and you’re a fan of men in tights then The Foul King is well worth your time. Song Kang-ho stars as Dae-ho, a put-upon bank clerk who after suffering humiliation after humiliation in his professional life joins a gym and finds himself on the bumpy road to becoming a professional wrestler. Alongside the laughs in this odd black comedy, Kim Ji-woon provides a touching portrayal of the problems that Korean men may face in their personal lives and in the workplace. There’s a sensitivity and soul to The Foul King that is missing from his later work and this darkly humorous depiction of a salaryman turned sportsman deserves a place on every Korean film fan’s shelf. A fabulously funny film with a warm heart and some great comedic wrestling action.

NATIONWIDE CALENDAR New This Month

Dates are subject to change. Tinker, Tailor, Soldier, Spy UK/France/Germany. Thriller. Tom Hardy, Gary Oldman; dir. Tomas Alfredson.

February 9th

Mr. Nice UK. Comedy/ Drama. Rhys Ifans, Chloe Sevigny; dir. Bernard Rose.

February 9th

NATIONWIDE

Star Wars Episode I: The Phantom Menace 3D USA. SF/Action. Liam Neeson, Ewan McGregor; dir. George Lucas.

February 9th

I Don’t Know How She Does It USA. Comedy/Romance. Sarah Jessica Parker, Pierce Brosnan; dir. Douglas McGrath.

February 2nd

Happy Feet 2 Australia. Animation/Comedy/Family. Elijah Jordan Wood, Pink; dir. George Miller.

February 2nd

The Bang Bang Club Canada/Republic of South Africa. Malin Akerman, Taylor Kitsch; dir. Steven Silver.

The Descendants USA. Comedy/Drama. George Clooney, Judy Greer; dir. Alexander Payne.

February 16th

Ghost Rider: Spirit of Vengeance USA. Action/Fantasy/ Thriller. Nicolas Cage, Idris Elba; dir. Mark Neveldine, Brian Taylor.

February 16th

February 2nd

Welcome to the Rileys UK/USA. Drama. James Gandolfini, Kristen Stewart; dir. Jake Scott.

February 2nd

The Grey USA/Canada. Action/Drama. Liam Neeson, Dermot Mulroney; dir. Joe Carnahan.

February 16th

This Means War USA. Comedy/Action/Romance. Reese Witherspoon, Chris Pine; dir. McG.

February 23rd

Man on a Ledge USA. Thriller/Crime. Sam Worthington, Elizabeth Banks; dir. Asger Leth.

February 23rd

Safe House USA/Republic of South Africa. Action/Thriller. Denzel Washington, Ryan Reynolds; dir. Daniel Espinosa.

TBA

Set Up USA. Action/Crime/Drama. Bruce Willis, 50 Cent; dir. Mike Gunther.

February 2nd

One for the Money USA. Romance/ Comedy/Crime. Katherine Heigl, Jason O’Mara; dir. Julie Anne Robinson.

TBA

Television

by S oy eo n K im b erly Yoo n

Formula-Defying Drama Finds Inspiration in Chinese History

New drama History of the Salaryman (샐러리맨 초한지) rejects the conventions of the standard romantic comedy and brings characters from Chinese history into a contemporary setting. Here’s some good news for Korean drama lovers who are bored with romantic comedies trotting out the same overused plot lines. History of the Salaryman (also known as Salaryman: Cho Han Ji), depicts the hectic lives of Korean workers and

how they handle intense competition and betrayal while seeking love and happiness. But it’s more than just that. As discussed on the DramaFever blog, the drama goes beyond “a parody of modern office politics” and “bases its characters on actual historical figures from ancient China.” These characters are drawn from the epic novel Cho Han Ji, which concerns the conflict between Xiang Yu and Liu Bang (who eventually became the first emperor of the Han Dynasty). In the drama, Lee Bum-soo plays Yoo Bang (historically Liu Bang). Yoo Bang is an intense, motivated character who manages to maintain his bright personality, making him the most-loved colleague at work. Jung Gyu-woon plays Choi Hangwoo (historically, Liu Bang’s rival Xiang Yu). As a summa cum laude graduate of Stanford, Hang-woo is climbing the ladder at Jangcho Pharmaceutical Company. For ambitious Hang-woo, Yoo Bang is a thorn in his side and an obstacle to his success.

The two leading female roles are played by Jung Ryeo-won and Hong Soo-hyun. Jung Ryeo-won plays Baek Yeo-chi (historically, Lu Zhi, wife of Liu Bang), reckless granddaughter of the president of Chunha Group. She leads an extravagant, materialistic life and lords it over the employees at Chunha Group. Her counterpart is Cha Woo-hee, played by Hong Soohyun, an intellectual chemist who lures men with her beauty and extensive knowledge about modern art, classical music, and wine. But Woo-hee (historically, Yu Miayoyi, Xiang Yu’s beloved) is actually from the countryside and leads a double life, using vulgar language when alone and envious of Yeo-chi. Adding to the show’s suspense is its sensational opening scene, with Yoo Bang and Yeo-chi accused of murdering Ho Hae, the vice-president and son of the president of Chunha Group. Then the drama shifts three months earlier to show the events that led up to his death. Follow the high-stakes lives of these four characters and figure out who the murderer is on SBS every Monday and Tuesday at 9:55 PM. 10 Magazine February 2012 | 39

Night,” “Ways to an End,” and “Hide and Seek”) is Simple Minds. Why? Who knows, but there you go.

Sotto Gamba

Mirrors

Lights and Offerings

Silent Grey Just when listeners might have thought the retro miners were having trouble locating new lodes to exploit, along comes a British three-piece synth-pop group from Brighton to dispel such wishful thinking. Taking early 1980s New Wave bands like OMD and Depeche Mode as their inspiration, Mirrors have thrown out a musical ode to those days of electro-pop stylism. The album stands out from today’s more somber music and risks censure by grabbing obvious snippets from more noteworthy artists. Right from the outset where The Who’s intro from Baba O’Reilly opens “Fear of Drowning,” Mirrors embarks on a veritable electro-pop odyssey with musical/ stylistic nods to Human League, Spandau Ballet, and Tears For Fears. The one notable inclusion that permeates the more dynamic – and better - tunes (“Write Through the

Booty Self-produced The f irst thing that becomes apparent when listening to Sotto Gamba’s debut release is the sheer number of styles and musical forms the band incorporates into their music; the second is the distinctive and compelling vocal prowess that drives the entire effort. Well-produced, musically astute, and creatively arranged, Booty is a welcome addition to the ongoing campaign by expat bands to stamp their distinctive musical mark on the everexpanding Korean music scene. Whether the musical derivations on Booty find form in stridently brassy excursions like “The Only One I Want Is You,” the reggae/ska infusions that propel cuts like “Honeygirl” and “Havana,” off beat offerings such as the Shuff le Demons-meet-Bowie indie sounds of “Dollar Wine,” the upbeat saxled jazz-pop (a la Matt Bianco) that carries “Bummernova” (fave!), or the cool vibe and funky backbeat that steps forth on “Easy Like That” (another fave!), Booty has more than enough oomph to deliver the goods. by M i c h a e l B e rry

Books

On the Plane The heartfelt cavorting of Jack Kerouac across America is recalled in The Dog Farm (298 pages, 2011), the first novel by David S. Wills (who writes sometimes in these pages). The title comes from a very vivid encounter with a boshintang restaurant, where dog meat soup is served. Although it often reads like a blog – the protagonist, Alexander, writes in the first person and often seems to be Wills himself – the novelist’s touch is there as well, tracing a story arc from Scotland to Korea and back again. We f ind in Alex’s stor y an all-toocredible young adult coming to Korea to teach out of a lack of other options at home. There are indelicate portraits of fellow expatriates, a hagwon in Daegu, and Korean romance; a spell working in Japan and then a return to try again, with more romance, in Korea. What is most appeal40 | 10 Magazine February 2012

Chocolat

I Like It Paramount Music

In their debut mini-album, Chocolat reveal just how difficult it can be to find a niche in a world where K-Pop is making headlines: mimicking recent dance-pop trends and throwing together an English version of the lead single does not a column in Billboard magazine make. The frivolous fun of “I Like It” doesn’t necessarily translate with lyrics like “all the bruises only make me want it some more.” Bruises from what (or whom?) is unclear, quickly turning the song into more of a red flag than a declaration of independence. The rest of the songs grasp for style by throwing together a variety of influences, leaving the album insubstantial and incoherent. If this is ambition, it’s directionless, like the freedom-seeking daughter who comes to realize her mother’s advice about leaving her ego at the door might actually by A n n a O r z e l have been right. by J ohn M ensing

ing about the book is also what is most disconcerting, and when I try to locate the impression I have to position it between the author and the reader. What we have come to expect from novels has changed, because of the internet and new styles of publishing. It is similar to the way in which reality TV and fake documentary movies have jarred our sense of narrative in TV shows and the cinema. A reader can’t come to this coming of age tale the way he or she would to This Side of Paradise – a novel to which The Dog

Farm could be compared – and may have difficulty deciding, as I did, whether it is rather more, or somewhat less, than a blog. As I felt it did well to illustrate the collection’s title, I’d have to judge “The Road to Sanbuk” by Valerie A. Nelson to be my favorite piece from Out of Place (146 pages, 2011), the 2012 Anthology of the Seoul Writers Workshop. Here you will find 30 more authors distilling their un-Koreanness i nto Kerouac- (and occasionally Murakami-) haunted prose, along with some Ferlinghetti-inspired poetry. All of these writing excerpts have the feeling of being well worked-over, refined by the efforts of their peers to improve the wording. Despite the workshop’s title, the collection is strikingly Seoul-less, with many of the pieces written about native soil. While some seemed labored and overly contrived, most authors had me wishing for a few more pages to their stories. Whether as diversion or as inspiration for your own scribbling, any readers here are advised to hit on this.

NATIONWIDE CALENDAR

Tech

Police 112 Directory Assistance 114 Human Rights and Discrimination 1331 Medical Information Center 1339 This is a 24-hour, nationwide hospital information service available in English, Korean, Chinese and Japanese.

by S tafford L umsden

Gifts from the Techie’s Heart In the West, February 14th (that’s Valentine’s Day, in case you forgot) is a day when young beaus impress their potential belles with gifts that show their secret admiration or proclaim their love. In Korea, however, it’s traditional for the ladies to give the gifts especially chocolate - while the boys get their chance to return the favor on the 14th of the next month, which is called White Day. It’s not too hard to find sweet confections, but if you’re looking for something less saccharine, here are some Valentine’s gift suggestions that will fill his or her techie heart with love. What says “I love you” more than an Apple product? Especially an iPod Nano filled with romantic hits?! (Filling this cute little mp3 player with Barry White songs may suggest something entirely different.) It’s available from the Apple store and various retailers for around W175,000. Purchases from the Apple’s online store also include free engraving, allowing you to add that special message to your loved one. store.apple.com/kr If you are a little more old school, and a little less f lush with cash, a Mixtape Memory Stick might be more your cup of tea. You won’t put this in a boom box and hold it over your head in front of her apartment window, though. Instead, this USB stick comes in a case resembling a cassette tape, and it’s only $12.99 from Think Geek. thinkgeek.com February is still cold, and gloves play havoc with the smooth operation of your smartphone. Warm up your loved one’s digits with smartgloves, which will keep her hands warm while she declares her love for you via KakaoTalk. Around $13 from amazon.com and other online retailers. For a treasure trove of heart-themed phone accessories, check out the recently redeveloped shopping areas in Gangnam Station in Seoul. You will be able to pick up phone covers, cases and more for as little as W4,000 or go for something every woman south of the river wants - an iPhone 4S case covered in pink and white crystals - for around W80,000. Classy! Or take the ultimate leap and get the object of your affections a new Samsung Galaxy S II in hot pink. Available from the Samsung Store in the basement of Samsung HQ, adjacent to Gangnam Station. Finally how would you like to capture your love-filled St. Valentine’s moment and make it last forever? The FujiFilm Instax 7 comes in a range of colours (including pink) and is available from various retailers for less than W60,000. Although the Polaroidesque charm of the 1970s abounds in these instant cameras, modern styling and reasonably cheap and easily pu rchased packs of instant film will have you snapping pics of your significant other all year round - not just on February 14th!

nationwide Overseas Accommodation

Foreigner Assistance/Translation BBB 24-hour Language Assistance 1588-5644 KTO Tourism 24-hr Infoline 1330 Korea Immigration immigration.go.kr 1345 Korean Customs customs.go.kr 1577-8577 Seoul Dasan (city info) 02-120

Investment Assistance KOTRA kotra.or.kr Invest Korea investkorea.org

02-3460-7114 1600 -7119

Korean Banks Shinhan Bank Seoul Global Center 1st Floor, Seoul Finance Center 84 Taepyungro 1-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul 02-773-3131 Korea Exchange Bank (KEB 외환은행) keb.co.kr 1544-3000

Villa Orchid

Bali

Villa Orchid Bali Available for short or long term rental. Check website and then e-mail or call for exclusive Koreaonly low rates. villaorchidbali.com email: vittoriaco@hotmail.com 010-7307-6555

Hotlines Emergency

119

SC First Bank (SC 제일은행) scfirstbank.com 02-3702-3114

Major Foreign Banks American Express americanexpress.co.kr 02-2000-8100 Australia & New Zealand Banking Group 02-3700-3100 China Construction Bank ccbseoul.com 02-6730-1718 Citibank citibank.co.kr 02-3455-2114 Deutsche Bank 02-724-4500 BNP Paribas bnpparibas.co.kr 02-317-1700 HSBC 1588-1770

PUB & RESTAURANT Come to Itaewon’s neighborhood pub!

* Pool * Darts * NFL Football on Demand * Beers on Tap!

Daily Drink Specials Weekday Happy Hour & Food Specials Back room patio/terrace available for private parties & events.

Heineken Hoegaarden Ally Kat Guinness Domestic beers

이태원 대한민국 Itaewon Station exit 1, pass KFC on the right. Turn right at the 4th alley. 2nd floor of the third building on the left.

Phone: 02-792-2550 10 Magazine February 2012 | 41

Stuffed Eggplant alla Caprese

Food Review

The Best Italian Restaurant You Never Heard Of Words and shots by Joe McPh e rson

his may be the best Italian restaurant in Seoul. There. I said it. It’s not only for the food. The food will transport your tastebuds to a villa in Rome. Paulodemaria, owned and run by, well, Paulo De Maria, is doing great work in bringing authentic and creative Italian dishes that Korea has never seen before. This is not the type of place that sells what I call “cream of spaghetti soup.” Chef Paulo stubbornly brings the flavors of his home country, and he is slowly winning this battle against the sweet pickle Italian restaurants. When eating at Paolodemaria, I kept thinking of Mario Batali. In the history books, Chef Batali will not be most remembered for his TV shows, his restaurant empire or his prowess on Iron Chef America. Batali and his restaurant Babbo (an unfortunate name if he ever opened an outlet here, as it sounds like the Korean word for “stupid”) will be remembered for changing the landscape for Italian food in America. He introduced ingredients like lardo and convinced Americans that tripe can be freakin’ tasty. He has raised America from red sauce and meatballs to the next level. Chef Paolo is doing the same. It helps that he’s also the president of the Food and Wine Committee of the Italian Chamber of Commerce in Korea. Enough superlative throwing. Paolodemaria is a trattoria on a

quaint street in Sorae Village that makes a good romantic date restaurant. The menu is extensive with old favorites. It also has some dishes and ingredients that you just can’t find in Korea, like the octopus appetizer with shaved bottarga, prized dried and cured fish roe. The lamb rack comes with foie gras and truffles. The pork belly is cooked slowly and served in Prosecco wine sauce. The menu also has more adventurous tastes, like the Roman-style Handmade Pappardelle (all the pastas are handmade) in Butter and Sage with Tripe, that you just have to try. Sweet, rich, and decadent. Don’t let it scare you. The dessert tray brings bold creative and classic creations to your table, and you are not limited to just one serving. You can choose a few selections for your plate. Accompany this meal with sharp personable service, great wines—even by the glass—and the enigmatic personality of Chef Paolo himself, and you have one of the best meals you will eat this year. This is the type of restaurant for special occasions, but there are affordable lunch specials. You seriously should treat yourself, treat the person you love, or treat the person you want to love you. 10 Magazine reimburses reviewers for their meals and never notifies restaurants that they will be reviewed.

English menu Allowed on the outside deck Veggie friendly Accessible Yes and sometimes necessary Possibly the best Italian restaurant in Seoul Not cheap W15,000 - W70,000 (some dishes for more than one diner go to W145,000) 02-599-9936 91-3 Banpo-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul Lunch 12 - 2:30 pm, Dinner 6 – 10 pm, Closed Monday paolodemaria.com Roman-style Pappardelle in Butter and Sage with Tripe 42 | 10 Magazine February 2012

FOODIE FINDS

Tower of Burgers

Bright lights and brilliant multicolored graffiti walls surround you as you step inside BBIS, the circular restaurant at the base of Seoul Tower. Cooks in an open kitchen prepare your selections from a minimalistic menu of hamburgers, hot dogs and fries. The simplicity saves you time as you decide between a Brooklyn Chicken Burger and a New York Classic Hot Dog. Limited by options but hungry, we ordered a Queens Mushroom Burger, a Kimchi Hot Dog, Chili Cheese Fries and two draft beers for W24,000. We happily scarfed down the pile of shoestring fries covered in spicy chili and cheese. Our first bites into the burger and hot dog were both a surprise. Dog: amazing. Burger: disappointing. The Kimchi hot dog was spicy and delicious while the ‘shroom burger lacked ‘shrooms. nseoultower.co.kr Words and shots by A aron J JacksonC rabb

The Chocolate Afternoon Tea Buffet is many delicious things in one. Sausage puffs and ham croissants serve as a light lunch. For the tea, there are unconventional but exquisite options like Grey Lavender and Sweet Ginger Peach. These share the drink menu with chocolate-based concoctions including the Iced Chocologie, a blend of chocolate syrup, milk, and whipped cream. But the main event, of course, is the chocolate confections: chocolatefilled and sugar-dusted beignets, a cake made of the rare criollo cocoa bean, and a selection of chocolates from seven countries, among others. If there’s a downside, it’s that you can’t eat it all. Though I wouldn’t blame you if you tried. Lobby Lounge, Grand InterContinental Hotel Parnas in Gangnam. Fri – Sun, 11 am – 5 pm. W30,000 (plus VAT and 10% service charge). For Englishlanguage information, call Belle Lee at 02-559-7603. Words by Dav i d Carru t h

SEOUL

How to Get a Ph.D. in Chocologie

힐링핸즈

Three Cheers for the Customers Based on the small sign and quaint entrance I was expecting peace and quiet but this place is all about the atmosphere. You’re immediately greeted with a chant from the entire staff, and then another cheer when you order a drink, followed by yet another when you order dinner. Teppen is an energetic teppenyaki restaurant and izakaya. The drink menu/placemat advertises specialty cocktails made with everything from sake to soju. For the food, the teppenyaki (dishes cooked on an iron griddle) will leave you stuffed while the tako wasabi (octopus marinated in wasabi) is fresh and perfectly spiced. It may be hard to find, but Teppen is boisterously delightful. Sangsu Station, exit 1. Go towards Hongik University and turn left at the 7-Eleven. teppenkorea.com 02-336-5578 Words by Troy Z i tz e lsb e rg e r and shots by Joe McPh e rson

Massage for the soul Full Body Massage t Foot Massage t Couples Massage Hot Massage t Accupressure t Package Standing Tanning Booth Hamilton Hotel Itaewon Station

It’s our 4 year anniversary! Fire Station

healinginseoul@gmail.com www.healinghands.co.kr 010.3158.5572

W 10,000 DISCOUNT on all our weekday services!*

*Valid for the month of February 2012, every Monday-Friday.

10 Magazine February 2012 | 43

SEOUL CALENDAR Art Through February 5th Botanical Art in Cheonggyecheon Exhibiting miniature flowers found in the Cheonggyecheon Stream. Seoul History Museum near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 1). Tue - Fri 9 am – 9 pm. Sat - Sun 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W700, children free. museum.seoul.kr 02-724-0274 Through February 10th A Tree Growing with the Forest Harmonizing the beauty of the East and the West, Jeon Byeong-hyeon comforts his viewers and brings back memories. Seonhwa Gallery near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 6). seonhwafoundation. org 02-2002-7777 Through February 11th Project Countdown Multiple art projects can be seen and experienced at the recently renovated former location of Seoul Station. Culture Station Seoul 284 near Seoul Station (line 1, exit 2). Free. countdown2011.org 02-3407-3500 Souvenirs From Earth.TV The very first independent TV channel which broadcasts media art such as video, design, music, performance, and installation art. Culture Station Seoul 284 near Seoul Station (line 1, exit 2). Mon - Fri 11 am - 7 pm, Sat - Sun 11 am - 8 pm. souvenirsfromearth.tv 02-3407-3500 Through February 15th Contemporary Art: Aha! Moment This illusionistic exhibition features fifty paintings, photos, and sculptures by Park Dae-jo and other artists. Seoul Art Center, Hangaram Art Museum. 11 am - 7 pm. Adults W8,000, students W5,000. sac.or.kr 02-599-5743 Homo-Sapiens Exhibit Gallery Golmok in Itaewon will put together four artists’ work, which explores how we got to where we are today and what the future may have in store for our species. Artists exhibiting include Martyn Thompson (UK), Jose Antonio Nigro (Venezuela), Heesoo Koo (Korea) and Jon Breitfuss (America), with a performance on the opening night by Alexandra Le Cann (France). m-art-yn.com, info@m-art-yn.com Through February 19th Buddhist Art of Japanese Biwaho Lake Biwaho is the single biggest lake in Japan, located in Shiga. This exhibit will be a chance to explore the unique Buddhist art in the area surrounding the lake. National Museum of Korea near Ichon Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Tue, Wed, Fri 9 am – 6 pm. Wed, Sat 9 am – 8 pm. Sun 9 am – 7 pm. museum.go.kr 02-2077-9000 Korean Abstract Painting: 10 Perspectives This exhibition shows artwork by 10 deceased Korean artists. Seoul Museum of Art. Tue - Fri 10 am - 8 pm. Sat - Sun 10 am - 7pm. Closed Mon. Free. seoulmoa.seoul.go.kr 02-2124-8934 Tell Me, Tell Me Exhibit In addition to being the repetitive song by the Wonder Girls, “Tell Me, Tell Me” is also the name of an exhibition taking place at the National Museum of Contemporary Art. The exhibition pays homage to the past relationship between Korea and Australia. National Museum of Contemporary Art, Deoksugung Palace branch near City Hall Stn. (line 1, ex. 2). 10 am – 5 pm. Sat 10 am – 8 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W5,000, minors free. moca.go.kr 02-2022-0600 Where Is My Friend’s House? Various art pieces are arranged in a maze-like space to illustrate the bewildering structure of modern cities like Seoul. Seoul Museum of Art near City Hall

44 | 10 Magazine February 2012

Stn. (line 1 and 2, ex. 10). Tue - Fri 10 am - 8 pm. Sat - Sun 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. seoulmoa.seoul.go.kr 02-2124-8800 Through February 26th Ceramics Commune Art Exhibit This exhibition illuminates the dreams of happy communities through contemporary ceramic artwork. Artsonje Center. Anguk Stn. (line 3, exit 1). 11 am - 7 pm. Closed Mon. artsonje.org 02-733-8945 David LaChapelle in Seoul This month sees the close of David LaChapelle’s exhibition at Seoul Arts Center, Hangaram Design Center. LaChapelle first gained fame when Andy Warhol pushed him towards the limelight by giving him a job for Interview magazine. Since then, LaChapelle’s works have varied greatly, from elaborate fashion photography to giant inflatables crushing super models and dramatic modern day reenactments of famous paintings. This exhibition shows his progression within his work by displaying over two hundred photographs. 11 am – 7 pm, excluding the last Monday of each month. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Label Market Music is to be seen and not heard? Awesome album art, imaginary concert posters, and more highlight the visual side of music, though there will be plenty to listen to as well. Sangsang Madang Art Space in Hongdae near Sangsu Stn. (line 6, ex. 1). Art Market & Gallery 1 – 10 pm. Art Square 12 – 11 pm. Closed every first Mon. sangsangmadang.com 02-330-6225 Reviewing Korean Sculpture Twentytwo representative Korean sculptors are exhibiting their lifetime work under various themes. SOMA Museum at Olympic Park near Mongchontoseong Stn. (line 5, ex. 1). Tue - Sun 10 am - 6 pm. Adults W3,000, teens W2,000, under 12 years free. somamuseum.or.kr 02-425-1077 Through February 29th Chinese Food, Clothing and Shelter Exhibition Exhibiting handicrafts from the Ming and Qing Dynasties. Hwajeong Museum near Gyeongbokgung Stn. (line 3, ex. 3). 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon & holidays. W4,000. hjmuseum.or.kr 02-2075-0114 Through March 4th Automata Meets the Movie Learn about how the Korean movie industry has developed from the 1970s through the present. Korean Film Archive. 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. Free. koreafilm.or.kr 02-3153-2072 Say Hi to Genius Painters of the Joseon Dynasty At this unique exhibition, you can experience artwork from the Joseon Dynasty in 3D. Seoul Art Center. Seoul Calligraphy Art Museum. W10,000. 11 am - 7 pm. sac.or.kr 02-599-5743 Magnum Photo Exhibition: Companions for the Globe Photos by Steve McCurry and seven other photographers show how the lives of AIDS patients have been changed by antiretroviral therapy. Seoul Art Center’s Hangaram Art Museum. 11 am - 7 pm. W10,000. sac.or.kr 02-599-5743 Special Exhibition: The 1300th Birthday of Saeng Kim 1300 years have passed since the birth of famous Silla Dynasty calligrapher Saeng Kim. This exhibit shows his work and related artifacts. Seoul Calligraphy Art Museum. 10 am - 7 pm. W5,000 - W7,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Through March 11th The City of Art: New York 1945-2000

Treasures from the Ukraine Scythian Gold of the Steppes

Through February 26th

Exhibition

Continued from p. 41 These Scythian treasures tell of a dynamic history. It is clear that the Scythians were a bridge between the East and West. A two-way inf luence with the Hellenistic art of the Greeks yielded remarkably Western-style bust pendants, while animal designs reminiscent of East Asian ideology, like the image of the deer, are prominent in Scythian religious relics. The Scythians left their mark on the Greeks, as well. It’s likely that the Greek idea of the Amazonian warrior women came from Scythian women found in the burial mounds. Exhibit held at the Hangaram Art Museum, part of the Seoul Arts Center, located near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 11 am - 7 pm daily. Adults W12,000, youth W8,000, children W5,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Words by T er e sa Fra n kl i n Experience the contemporary art of New York. Sixty-four pieces by Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein, Keith Haring, and others. 63 Sky Art Gallery at the 63 Building. Daebang Stn. (line 1, exit 6). 10 am - 8 pm. W12,000. 63skyart.co.kr 02-789-5663 Polipop Korean-American media artist Chun Min-jung presents Political Pop Art, which describes Korean and American culture, politically and socially. Sungkok Art Museum. 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. W4,000 - W5,000. sungkokmuseum.com 02-737-7650 Through March 15th Yann Arthus-Bertrand: The Earth from Above More than 220 photos and video captured by this aerial photographer. Seoul Museum of Art. Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 5). 10 am - 8 pm. seoulmoa.seoul.go.kr 02-2124-8936 Through March 17th Kim Han-Yong: Commercial Photography and the Birth of the Consumer Meet the master of Korean advertising photography through his work. The Museum of Photography, Seoul. Located near Mongchontoseong Station (line 8, ex. 2). 10 am - 7 pm. photomuseum.or.kr 02-418-1315 Through March 18th Karl Lagerfeld’s “Work in Progress” Photo Exhibition Director of Fendi and Chanel and world-famous fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld named this exhibition “Work in Progress” to reflect his motto that a new piece of work should be an improvement upon the previous one. The exhibition includes photographs from the 2011 F/W collections of Chanel and Fendi. Daelim Contemporary Art Museum near Gyeongbokgung Stn. (line 3, ex. 3). Tue - Sun 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. W5,000. daelimmuseum.org 02-720-0667

Through March 31st Modern Portraits of Beautiful Women Twenty-three artists’ pictures of beautiful women from Korea, France, and Germany. Space*C Coreana Art and Culture Complex, Apgujeong Stn. (line 3, ex. 3). 10 am - 6 pm. W2,000 - W3,000. spacec.co.kr 02-547-9177 Through April 14th Jewelry This exhibition shows how people from the Joseon Dynasty indicated their class using accessories and jewelry. Space*C Coreana Art and Culture Complex, Apgujeong Stn. (line 3, ex. 3). 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Sun. W2,000 - W3,000. spacec.co.kr 02-547-9177 February 23rd - 26th Korea Galleries Art Fair Introducing artwork by both new artists and world-famous artists. Hall D of COEX in Seoul. 11 am - 8 pm. W8,000 - W10,000. seoulartfair.net 02-6000-0114

Theater & Dance Through February 5th Hero: The Musical Award-winning musical Hero is the epic story of activist and assassin An Jung-geun, who sacrificed his life in the fight to preserve Korean independence. In Korean. Seoul Arts Center Opera House. Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5) Tue - Fri 8 pm. Sat 3, 7:30 pm. Sun 2, 6:30 pm. Closed Mon. W40,000 - 120,000. sac.or.kr 02-2250-5900 Through February 26th Thrill Me: The Musical Based on a murder that took place in Chicago in 1924. In Korean. Chungmu Art Hall, Middle Theater Black. Tue - Fri 8 pm. Sat & Sun 3, 6 pm. Closed Mon. W40,000 - W50,000. cmah.or.kr 02-2230-6600

SEOUL CALENDAR e di t or’ s p ick

February 10th – March 4th

SEOUL

Anthony Rapp’s Without You

Theater & Dance

Rent’s star performer Anthony Rapp presents a one-man autobiographical tale of loss and triumph based on his memoir Without You: A Memoir of Love, Loss, and the Musical Rent. Rapp’s enthralling story begins in 1994, working as a barista at Starbucks in New York, and guides the audience through the excitement of the founding of Rent, his struggle with the loss of his mother, and the untimely death of Rent’s director, Jonathan Larson. Rapp’s performance includes songs from Rent, as well as his own original music and songs by famous rock band R.E.M. Held at the KT&G SangSang Art Hall near Samsung Stn. (line 2, ex. 2). 100 min. Weekdays 8 pm, Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 3 pm. W44,000 – W66,000. Enjoy 50% off Feb 10th – Feb 12th. sangsangarthall.com 1544-1681 Words by T er e sa Fra n kl i n Through February 26th Notre Dame de Paris: The Musical The English version of this beloved French musical will be performed at the Sejong Center for the Performing Arts. Dark Mon. Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 2 & 6 pm. W60,000 - W200,000. notredamedeparis.co.kr ticket.interpark. com/Global Through March 28th Traditional Korean Dance Concert with Jung Yeon-hee This performance consists of many kinds of Korean traditional dance. You can get a close-up view of dancers’ bodies and hands in the intimate theater. Theater Sungkyun, Daehagno near Hyehwa Stn. (line 4). Wed 8 pm. W20,000. cafe.naver.com/sktheater 02-747-5035

Concerts Ongoing Korean Music & Dance Experience the beauty of the traditional Korean music and dance every Saturday at 4 pm. Umyeondang (Small Hall) at the National Gugak Center near Nambu Terminal Station (line 3). W10,000. gugak.go.kr 02-580-3300 M.Street: “Balla Show!” Experience the emotional vocals and beautiful harmonies of M.Street at their first Daehangno concert. Purchase tickets in front of the theater. First-come, firstserved. Daehangno Music Monster Hall. Sat & Sun 7:30 pm. W30,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-747-2113

February 18th Love Bitten: Shakespeare Performance Come and experience soulful Shakespearean sonnets like never before! Wine, dine and mingle amidst the candlelight with some of Seoul’s most talented female expat and Korean musicians. Camarata Music Studio, Haebangchon Main Street. 8 pm. Pay what you can. facebook.com/seoulshakespeare, info@seoulshakespeare.com

February 3rd Arte Jazz Festival: “Jazz Holic” Listen to thrilling jazz music at the Arte Hall near Hapjeong Stn. (line 2, 6, ex. 7). 7:30 pm. W20,000. interpark.com 02-2128-3366

February 18th - 19th Universal Ballet: This is Modern 3 Universal Ballet’s opening performance in 2012. Before the performance, leader Moon Hun-suk presents a lecture on how to appreciate the modern ballet.” Universal Art Center near Achasan Stn. (line 5, ex. 4). Sat 3 & 7 pm. Sun 3 pm. W10,000 - W70,000. uac.co.kr 070-7124-1740

February 3rd - 5th Park Joo-won’s Encore Concert “Fiesta of Sorrow” Guitarist Park Joo-won’s previous concert sold out, so he is holding an encore performance to please his fans. Lee Hae-rang Arts Theater at Dongguk University. Fri 8 pm, Sat 7 pm, Sun 6 pm. W55,000. 이해랑예술극장.com 02-2260-8901

Seoul Philharmonic Orchestra Masterpiece Series I With Leonard Slatkin, conductor of the BBC Symphony and musical director of the Washington National Symphony. Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm. W10,000 - W60,000. seoulphil.or.kr 02-1588-1210

Continued on p. 52 10 Magazine February 2012 | 45

SEOUL CALENDAR

Openrun Nonverbal Performances Lack of Korean ability can be a big stumbling block for plays or musicals performed in the local language, but you will find none of those problems at the following shows. All ongoing, and all non-verbal, these performances are perfect for fans of dance, physical comedy, and exciting music, no matter which language you may speak.

SEOUL

Ballerina Who Loves a B-Boy A would-be ballerina falls for a b-boy street dancer in this mash-up of break dance and ballet. Lotte World Art Hall at Jamsil Stn. (line 2). Wed – Fri 8 pm, Sat – Sun 3 & 6 pm. Closed Mon & Tue. W50,000. showbboy.com 02-2266-3727

‘Where you’re more than just a guest’

WELCOME HOME TO FRASER PLACE CENTRAL, SEOUL Experience the wealth of opportunities, wondrous sights and cultural sounds that Seoul has to offer, while enjoying the luxury and comforts of a Gold Standard serviced residence and knowing that every need is well taken care of. Fraser Place Central Seoul. The retreat within a city, your home away from home.

FRASER PLACE CENTRAL - SEOUL #202, UIJURO 1-GA, JUNG-GU, SEOUL, KOREA 100-130 Reservations: +82-2-2220-8000,8333 Website: www.fraserplace.co.kr

46 | 10 Magazine February 2012

B-Boy City in Seoul: Kung B-boy ensemble Gorilla Crew uses breakdance to tell a gripping story. B-Boy Theater Samjin B/D B1 in Hongdae. Wed - Fri 8 pm, Sat 6 pm, Sun and holidays 2 pm. 90 min. Closed Mon & Tue. W50,000. sjbboys.com 02-323-5233 Drawing Show: Hero Art exhibit or performance? The drawing show is as fun to watch as it is hard to classify. Myungbo Art Hall near Chungmuro Stn. (lines 3 & 7, ex. 7). Weekdays 8 pm, Sat 4 & 7 pm, Sun & Holidays 3 & 6 pm. W40,000 - W50,000. drawingtheater.com 02-766-7848 Fanta-stick This show mixes physical comedy with traditional Korean music for lots of laughs. Kyunghyang Newspaper Building near Seodaemun Stn. (line 5, ex. 5). Daily at 8 pm. 80 min. W40,000 - W50,000. fanta-stick.co.kr 02-6401-5959 Jump Two would-be thieves break into a house full of martial arts masters! First performed in 2003, this show combines a comic story with martial arts moves and impressive visuals. Downtown near Jonggak Stn. Mon 8 pm, Tue – Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun 3 & 6 pm. W40,000 – W60,000. hijump.co.kr 02-722-3995 Karma This nonverbal musical tells a classic tale of fate, love and conspiracy between the gods. Karma Theatre. Chungcheongno Stn. (lines 2 & 5, ex.7 & 8). Mon – Fri 8 pm, Sat 3 pm & 7 pm, Sun 3 pm. W44,000 – W77,000. thepatron.aboutmovie.com 02-336-1289 Korea House Performance Head over to the Korea House for two daily performances based on traditional Korean culture. Chungmuro Stn. (lines 3 & 4, ex. 3). Part 1: 6:30 - 7:30 pm, part 2: 8:30 - 9:30 pm. Dinner price starts at W68,200. Performance is W50,000 (30% discount with dinner). kangkoku.or.kr 02-2266-9101 Legend of Flower II This romantic tale of two lovers is back and better than ever with stunning sound effects, tantalizing aromas, holographs, and more. Walkerhill

Theater at the Sheraton Grande Walkerhill. Mon - Sat 4:50 & 7:30 pm. 75 min. W60,000 and up. legendofflower.com 02-455-5000 The Marionette: B-Boy Musical This b-boy musical won the top prize in an international competition. Daehan Saengmyeong 63 Art Hall. 8 pm. Closed Mon & the 1st & 3rd Tue. 70 min. W40,000. 63.co.kr 1661-1063 Miso Chongdong Theater presents Miso, a story of one woman’s encounter with love told through traditional dance, percussion, and music. City Hall Stn. (lines 1, 2). 4 & 8 pm. Closed Mon. 80 min. W30,000 – W50,000. miso.chongdong.com 02-751-1500

Nanta This kitchen percussion extravaganza is the stage show that nearly everyone sees at least once. Three Seoul locations and performances almost daily. W40,000 – W60,000. To find out how to get a big discount on your tickets, see p. 17. nanta.co.kr 02-739-8288 Pan An exciting combination of Korean folk songs, dances, and games. Gwanghwamun Art Hall. Weekdays 8 pm, weekends and holidays at 2 pm. Closed Mon and Tue. 90 min. W30,000 W50,000. ghmarthall.com 02-722-3416 Performances at National Folk Museum Every weekend, the National Folk Museum presents traditional Korean performances for visitors. Anguk Stn (line 3, ex. 1) Gwanghwamun Stn (line 5, ex. 2). Sat 3 pm. Free. nfm.go.kr 02-3704-3114 Sa-Choom The story of three friends’ coming of age is told through dance. Insadong near Jongno 3-ga Stn. (lines 1, 3, & 5, ex. 5). Mon - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 7:30 pm, Sun 4 pm. 80 min. W25,000 - W50,000. lovedance.co.kr 02-3676-7616 Samcheonggak Morning Performance Start the day by sipping a cup of seasonal tea and listening to the sound of traditional Korean musical instruments. Samcheonggak in Seongbuk-gu. Free shuttle bus available outside of Euljiro Stn. (line 2, ex. 1) at 10:20 am. Every final Saturday. 10 am - 11 am. 60 min. W20,000. samcheonggak.or.kr 02-765-3700

From genre progenitors Judas Priest to Lamb of God’s pure aggression and Opeth’s mind-expanding musical alchemy, metal cometh. February is promising to be the heaviest month in Korea’s musical history. Words by Ia n H e n de rson

February 4th

Alongside Black Sabbath and Led Zeppelin, Judas Priest are one of the founders of heavy metal. Rising from their bluesy origins, they gave the fledgling subculture its first major innovations in both sound and look. They introduced dual guitar harmonies, more operatic vocalizations, a punishing rhythm section, and even gave metal its trademark “spikes and leather” visual appearance. Best known for their metallic anthems “Breaking the Law,” “Victim of Changes,” and “Painkiller,” the group’s moniker of “The Metal Gods” is well-deserved. Now, after 40 years in action and over 50 million albums sold, the group is undertaking its last major world tour, appropriately titled “Epitaph.” Olympic Hall. 7 pm. W77,000 - W121,000. ticket.interpark.com 1544-1555

Lamb of God

February 12th

As one of the premiere bands of the new wave of American heavy metal, Lamb of God have honed their style of southern shred to perfection. Hailing from the southeastern U.S. state of Virginia, their aural assault of machinist-esque drumming, aggressively complex riffs, and primal vocals all covered in a thick layer of groove create a sound much akin to the late, great Pantera. In fact, many fans consider Lamb of God to have inherited the throne from the now defunct super-group. They have received three Grammy nominations and their last album, Wrath, debuted at number 2 on the Billboard 200. They are touring in support of their new release, Resolution. AX-KOREA near Gwangnaru Stn. 6 pm. W99,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-3445-9650

Opeth

February 14th

Since inception, Opeth has been considered on the cutting edge of extreme music. Seamlessly blending jazz, folk, death/black metal, and progressive rock into sweeping epics, they are the vanguard of metal artistry. Started as an underground project in Stockholm, the band is the brainchild of singer/guitarist/songwriter Mikael Akerfeldt. Their fan-base grew as their craft evolved, eventually becoming an international sensation. While still firmly rooted within the metal community, they nonetheless have continued to defy convention with the release of purely progressive albums such as Damnation, and their latest recording, Heritage. After gaining worldwide success, garnering a Swedish Grammy award and landing on the Billboard 200, they are now making their Korean debut. V-Hall. 8 pm. W77,000. ticket.interpark.com 070-8616-6749

10 Magazine February 2012 | 47

SEOUL

Judas Priest

SEOUL CALENDAR Continued from p. 49 February 4th - 5th B2ST Concert “Beautiful Show” Korean idol group B2ST’s world tour concert. Gymnastics Stadium at Olympic Park, Olympic Park Stn. (line 5, ex. 3). 6 pm. W55,000 - W99,000. kspo.or.kr 02-410-1114 February 5th Raise Your Flag Again Tour in Seoul The leading heavy metal band in Japan, Galneryus, is in Korea to celebrate their newly released album. KT&G Sangsang Madang in Hongdae. 6 pm. 상상마당.com 02-2611-0990

SEOUL

Romantic Concert: “I Miss You, Friends” Thirteen popular singers from the 70s and 80s are getting together to help you relive memories of the good old days. Daeyang Hall at Sejong University. 3 & 6:30 pm. W55,000 - W110,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-3408-3532

February 15th Woong-san with Her Jazz Orchestra: Love Story This romantic concert features jazz vocalist Woong-san backed by a big band orchestra. Seoul Art Center near Nambu Bus Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W66,000 - W88,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 February 16th Lee Jun-ki Concert: Reunion JG Lee Jun-ki, best known for his leading role in Korean film The King and the Clown, is making a comeback after finishing his military service. Sangmyung Art Center. 3 pm. W30,000. smarts.or.kr 02-2287-7186 February 17th Blackbag Concert: Beyond the Sky Celebrating rock band Blackbag’s newly released album. KT&G Sangsang Madang in Hongdae. 7:30 pm. W20,000 sangsangmadang.com 02-330-6263

February 9th Jazz Vocalist Lee Boo-young: “Reverie” Legendary Korean jazz vocalist Lee Boo-young at Mapo Arts Center near Daeheung Stn. (line 6, ex. 2). 7 pm. W33,000 - W55,000. mapoartcenter.or.kr 02-3274-8600 May Tree A Cappella Concert May Tree, the winner of the 2011 World A Cappella Competition, has an exciting concert for Valentine’s Day. Bear Hall near Samsung Stn. (line 2, ex. 8). 120 min. 8 pm. W50,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-550-8665 February 9th - 11th Baekja Encore Concert Welcomm Theater near Donguk Univ. Stn. (line 3, ex. 1). 120 min. Thu - Sat 8 pm, Sun 6 pm. W25,000. welcommtheater.com 02-720-0749 February 10th Seoul Philharmonic Orchestra Sejong Center for the Performing Arts. 7:30 pm. W10,000 - W30,000. seoulphil.or.kr 02-1588-1210 February 10th - 11th Noel Valentine’s Day Concert Korean R&B group Noel is holding a concert at Yonsei University. Fri 8 pm. Sat 7 pm. W88,000 - W99,000. wsmi.co.kr 02-1566-5490 February 11th - 12th Infinite Concert: Second Invasion Korean Idol group Infinite, will present their second concert at Olympic Park, Olympic Park Stn. (line 5, ex. 3). Sat 6 pm, Sun 5 pm. W88,000. kspo.or.kr 02-410-1601 February 11th Korean Pops Orchestra Experience the complete combination of pop and classical music. Seoul Arts Center. 7 pm. W30,000 - W150,000. ticket.auction.co.kr 02-581-5404 Lee Han-chul Concert The one-andonly happy singer Lee Han-Chul presents an exciting show. Bear Hall near Samsung Stn. (line 2, ex. 8). 7:30 pm. W50,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-550-8665 More Than a Kiss 1 Day Break will be previewing songs from their upcoming album at this Valentine’s Day concert. Mapo Arts Center near Daeheung Stn. (line 6, ex. 2). 6 pm. W33,000 - W55,000. mapoartcenter.or.kr 02-3274-8600 Viva-World Vol. 3 Awesome concerts with Crying Nut, Biuret, Nemesis, and Galaxy Express. Rolling Hall near Sangsu Stn. (line 6, ex. 1) or Hapjeong Stn. (line 2, ex 6). 6 pm. W15,000 - W25,000. rollinghall.co.kr 02-323-3733

48 | 10 Magazine February 2012

Evanescence Live in Seoul with Bush Gothic metal band Evanescence, famous for smash hits “Bring Me to Life” and “My Immortal,” is touring with special guest alternative rock band legend Bush. AX-Korea Hall near Gwangnaru Stn. (line 5, ex. 2). 8 pm. W132,000. ax-korea.co.kr 02-457-5114 Toro Y Moi Thanks to Super Color Super, indie band Toro y Moi is back in Korea. V-Hall near Hongik Stn. (line 2, ex. 9). 8 pm. W40,000. supercolorsuper.com 02-563-0595 February 18th Seoul-Tokyo Sound Bridge This performance is to be a musical exchange between Korea and Japan. On Feb 9th in Tokyo, and Feb 18th in Seoul. V-Hall near Hongik Stn. (line 2, ex. 9). 7 pm. W30,000. club.cyworld.com/v-hall 02-563-0595 Lim Dong-hyuk Piano Recital Outstanding young Korean pianist Lim Dong-hyuk will do a 10-city tour in celebration of the 10th anniversary of his debut. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Bus Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W30,000 - W100,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 February 19th Mint Festa Vol. 34: Eternal Indie band standing concert with 10cm, Clencheck, Lala-sweet and more. KT&G Sangsang Madang in Hongdae. 5 pm. W30,000. sangsangmadang.com 02-322-0014 February 21st - 22nd Jung Myung-hun and the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra Maestro Jung Myung-hun, perhaps the best conductor that Korea has ever produced, presents a variety of pieces from Brahms, Beethoven, and Bartok along with Amsterdam’s Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra. Seoul Art Center. 8 pm. W70,000 - W400,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300

February 23rd - 24th Halie Loren’s Second Jazz Concert Experience romantic jazz music with Halie Loren at Baekam Hall near Samsung Stn. (line 2, ex. 8). 8 pm. W15,000 - W70,000. baekamhall.com 02-6352-6636 February 24th Fred Perry Subculture Viewzic Session: Gogostar & Telepathy Live Concert Gogostar is a mixed band of four that dusts off rock and disco hits from the 80s. They are joined by video artist group Telepathy. 8 pm. W35,000. KT&G Sangsang Madang at Hongdae. ticket.interpark.com viewzic@gmail.com

from 1 - 2:30 pm. Classes are available either one on one or for a group of four children between 5 to 13 years old. 50% off for 10 Magazine readers. Paik Hae-young Gallery. artnhyo@gmail.com 010-3795-1245 Vroomiz Playground The Vroomiz, in case you didn’t know, are animated talking vehicles shaped like animals who inhabit the Zippy City. Toddlers and preschoolers who are fans of the cartoon will enjoy this playground. Sindorim Technomart, F5. 10:30 am - 7 pm. Adults (middle school and up) W10,000, children W15,000. gogovroomiz.com 1544-4092 Through February 12th Thomas & Friends’ Activity Zones Meet Thomas & Friends, the characters from the popular British children’s TV series, at the aT Center near Yangjae Stn. (line 3, ex. 7). 9:30 am - 6:30 pm. Adults W12,000, children 12 and under W16,000. thomastour.com 02-1544-5063

February 26th Rachael Yamagata Live in Seoul Known for “Be Your Love,” American singer-songwriter Yamagata is visiting Seoul to promote her newly released album. Blue Square Samsung Card Hall. 6 pm. W77,000 - W88,000. bluesquare. kr 02-6739-1394

Through March 4th Cocomong’s Green Playground Kids can learn about protecting the environment at this exciting playground. Sindorim Technomart, 5th floor. 10:30 am - 7 pm. Adults W10,000, children W15,000. Closed Mon. playcocomong.com 02-1544-9033

February 27th - 28th London Symphony Orchestra Concert England’s No. 1 orchestra, the London Symphony Orchestra, is coming to Korea for the first time in six years. Led by Valery Gergiev and accompanied by Sara Jang. Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm. W60,000 - W350,000. sac.or.kr

February 4th Burns Night The Seoul Burns Night will be held at the Grand Hyatt Hotel in Itaewon. Expect plenty of poetry, humorous speeches, banter, and whisky. britishseoul.com/links/ st-andrews-society-seoul

February 28th Great Artist Series III: Laura Fygi Jazz vocalist Laura Fygi will be the highlight of this concert held at the Sejong Center for the Performing Arts near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5). 8 pm. W30,000 - W80,000. sejongpac.or.kr 02-399-1114~6 February 29th Seoul Philharmonic Orchestra Conducted by Gennady Rozhdestvensky. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W10,000 - W60,000. seoulphil.or.kr 02-1588-1210 Watanabe Yuichi in Concert New-age pianist Watanabe Yuich will play his best songs along with arrangements of Korean tunes. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W60,000 - W80,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300

Film Through February 26th Cinematheque Friends Film Festival Various movies selected by the Korean Association of Cinematheque will be screened at Seoul Art Cinema. W5,000 - W6,000. cinematheque.seoul.kr 02-741-9782 February 1st - 3rd Marieclaire Film Festival and Jecheon International Music & Film Festival Watch from a selection of eight movies that were shown at the last JIFF and meet ten musicians including the Kim Chang-wan Band, Sweet Sorrow, and Broccoli You Too. CGV Chungdam Cine City. mcffplusjimff2012.tistory.com 02-1544-1122

Family & Community Ongoing Kids Atelier Taught by a graduate from the Parsons School of Design, this weekly lecture is held every Saturday

SEOUL

February 25th Annyeong Bada Concert Korean indie band Annyeong Bada is holding a concert to celebrate their 2nd album Pink Revolution. V-Hall near Hongik Stn. (line 2, ex. 9). 8 pm. W35,000. club. cyworld.com/v-hall 02-563-0595

February 11th -12th Seoul Comic World Participate in cosplay and other fun anime-related activities at the Seoul Trade Exhibition and Convention Center. Sat 10:30 am - 5:30 pm. Sun 10 am - 5:30 pm. W4,000. comicw.co.kr 02-3142-2137

Education & Conferences Ongoing Beginner’s Photography Class Korea’s only photography class taught in English by a professional photographer. Every Sunday outside Mapo Stn. (line 5, ex. 2). W200,000 (group discount available). facebook.com/photoseoul kuraeji@gmail.com Eric Carle English Art Studio Exhibitions and storytelling by an English teacher. This art class is a creative program taught in English in a small group environment. Yoondang Art Hall. Weekdays 10 am - 6 pm, weekends 10 am - 7 pm. W27,000. ydart.co.kr 02-546-8095 Garuya Garuya: Kids’ Flour Workshop Kids + flour = fun. PMC Kids Hall at COEX Artium. Mon - Fri 1 - 4 pm, Sat - Sun 10:20 am - 4:20 pm (Sat 4:55 pm). Adult 17,000, kids W23,000. coex.co.kr 02-738-8289 Insect & Reptile Exhibition Who doesn’t love seeing bugs and snakes, especially when there’s a thick layer of plexiglass between you and them? Insect & Reptile Exhibition Center in Sindang Stn. (line 2, 6, ex. 10). 10 am - 6 pm. W10,000. bugsfestival.com 1588-2019 Through February 5th Joseon Dynasty Books Returned from Japan This exhibition introduces visitors to the books recently returned to Korea by the Japanese government. National Palace Museum of Korea. Mon Fri 9 am - 6 pm. Weekend 9 am - 7 pm. Free. gogung.go.kr 02-3701-7500

An experience to remember... Itaewon 116-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Tel: 02-790-7977

Samcheong-dong 31-1 Samcheong-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Tel: 02-730-7461 Dogok-dong 464 Dogok-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Tel: 02-574-4468

Business Hour : 11:30am - 10:30pm

www.mapletreehouse.co.kr

10 Magazine February 2012 | 49

SEOUL CALENDAR

FREE Aroma Oil Deep Tissue Therapy (30 min) when you sign up for 1 month of Wholistic Reformer Pilates Group Exercise *This offer expires on 2012-02-29

SEOUL

t $IJSPQSBDUJD US Board Certified t 1JMBUFT *OUhM $FSUJmDBUF

Private & Small Group t #PEZ'MFY Circuit Training t 1SF 1PTU OBUBM $BSF t :PHB

Super Color Super Blaze Trail for DIY Concert Promotion

t 3FIBCJMJUBUJWF &YFSDJTF t #PEZ #BMBODJOH 5IFSBQZ t "SPNB %FFQ 5JTTVF .BTTBHF t 3FKVWFOBUJOH Facial Treatment t $PODJPVT $BSF

Beautiful Health, NY Wholistic Care

T. 02. 792. 2296 Office Hour M-F: 8a~9p Sat: 8a~5p www.nywc.co.kr

Live without PAIN

International Health Insurance Benefit. 50 | 10 Magazine February 2012

Super Color Super is a promotions company that is showing just how successful the DIY approach can be. It’s hard to turn down any alley in Seoul without seeing posters for upcoming concerts, DJ sets or club nights. With a scene expanding as rapidly as the one here, it comes as little surprise that competition between promoters is fierce. Super Color Super, helmed by California native Sean Maylone, has managed to carve an impressive name for itself in this market by showing a fantastic level of faith in the musical acumen of Seoul punters. Already, SCS have brought acts such as Mogwai, Yacht, Mount Eerie/The Microphones, Caribou, and Four Tet to Korean shores. So far, 2012 has seen performances by Dan Deacon and Her Space Holiday, and they have big things planned for the rest of the year. February heralds the return of chillwave/progressive heavyweight Toro y Moi at Rolling Hall, and if his appearance last July was anything to go by it will be another incredible event. What really sets this company apart though is their overwhelming commitment to the Korean music scene. They have recently launched G’old Vinyl, an initiative that seeks out underground 60s and 70s cuts of Korean recordings and puts them into mixtapes available for download. They expanded on this recently by holding their first G’old Vinyl club night in Busan. They also actively support smaller local bands and artists with their Round Robin and Supersketch events and are one of the few promotions teams that go out of their way to include Daegu and Busan in their tours. People not only in Korea but in the world at large are starting to take notice. Though SCS only has two full time staff (Maylone and Violet Her), their endeavors have already featured in international publications such as Vice, Nylon and the New York Times, in addition to local press. With future plans for giant cinema set ups, artist retreats and of course continuing to bring emerging and major acts to Korea, now is the time to jump on the SCS bandwagon. More information on this month’s concert can be found in the Seoul calendar listings. supercolorsuper.com

Words by N i na Hof f ma n

e di t or’ s p ick

February 25th

SEOUL

DJ Sascha Dive

Nightlife

Blending European and American styles, and the new with the old school, Frankfurt’s DJ Sascha Dive is breaking the house music mold. His own production label, Deep Vibes Recordings, is a growing presence in the European club scene. Sascha Dive has become renowned for his deep house, boldly remixing a diverse range of tracks, from funk to disco to soul. Citing Moodyman, Theo Parish, and Cie among his inspirations, Dive’s sounds are described as unique and sophisticated minimalist techno. This one-time performance in Seoul is sure to stand out among the rest. Performance will be held at Club Mystik in Itaewon, Friday night into Saturday morning (1 am – 4 am). Cover: W20,000. Reservations are available at 0103440-9470. Search for “Mystik” on Facebook for more info on the club. Words by T er esa Fra n kli n Through February 28th This is Korea 1970KHz: History of Korean Pop Culture Learn about the life of Koreans during the 60s and 70s at this interactive exhibit. Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). 10 am - 7 pm. W12,000 - W20,000. sejongpac.or.kr 1544-1887 Through February 29th Animal or Plant Exhibit See numerous kinds of animals and plants at the Seodaemun Museum of Natural History near Shinchon Stn. (line 2, ex. 1, 3). Adults W3,000, teens W2,000, children W1,000. namu.sdm.go.kr 02-330-8899

Sport & Fitness Dozens of volleyball and basketball games are scheduled for this month. Volleyball games are listed at kovo. co.kr (mostly Korean, though English schedules are also listed). For men’s basketball games, visit kbl.or.kr (Korean only) and women’s games, visit wkbl. or.kr (Korean only). February 23rd The 3rd Sunday Marathon 10k, 32k, and half marathon to depart at 1 pm from Event Plaza in Yeouido Hangang Park. Register by February 13th. W22,000. imarathon.kr 02-723-1667 March 1st Jamsil Independence Day Marathon 5k, 10k, and half marathon to depart at 10 am at Jamsil Olympic Main Stadium. Register by February 10th. run1080.com 042-638-1080 March 4th 3rd Seoul Race 5k, 10k, 30k, half and full to depart at 12 pm from Event Plaza in Yeouido Hangang Park. Register by

February 27th. W30,000. champrace.co.kr 02-1600-7331

Nightlife Ongoing Club Day After a 6-month hiatus, Club Day has returned to Hongdae. As before, it’s held on the final Friday of each month. Entrance to M2, Via DD, NB2, Saab, Qvo, Ska2, and other top Hongdae party spots along with a free drink only costs W20,000. 8 pm - 6 am. theclubday.co.kr Open Mic Night at Bar Ireland Yuki Enjoy the musings of Seoul’s best talent every Thursday night at Bar Ireland Yuki. Registration begins at 7:30 pm and the show starts at 8 pm. Free admission. Located near Itaewon Station (line 6, ex. 2), right next to Kraze Burger. itaewonopenmic@gmail.com Quiz Night at Craftworks Every Wednesday at 8:30 pm. Great prizes including W50,000 bar tab for 1st place and prizes from sponsors. Craftworks Taphouse is located near Noksapyeong Stn. (line 6, ex. 2). craftworkstaphouse.com 02-794-2537 Rhyme Time: Spoken Word and Poetry Every 2nd and 4th Thursday head to Tony’s Aussie Bar in Itaewon for a literary evening. 8 pm. tonysitaewon.com 02-790-0793 Stand Up Seoul Comedy Night Korea’s finest English language comedians deliver monologues and rants about expat life and other topics. New acts are welcome! The show starts at 9 pm on the first Thursday of each month at Rocky Mountain Tavern in Itaewon. Facebook: Stand Up Seoul james. hershberger@gmail.com

10 Magazine February 2012 | 51

SEOUL discovery

Walking in a Winter Wonderland Cold Weather Trekking in Seoul

SEOUL Words and shots by Todd B ru n s

here to walk? Namsan and Cheonggyecheon are the obvious spots, but plenty of options abound. Seoul delivers wide sidewalks, interesting alleys, and green space. Plus, Family Mart is always around the corner offering hand warmers, coffee, or tall boys of Hite D. Factor in the world’s best subway system that can take you home no matter how far you wander, and you’ve got an awesome city for taking a stroll. Sure, it’s getting colder by the day, but that’s no reason to stay home and hibernate. Bundle up and take to the streets! You haven’t really seen the Han River until you’ve seen it frozen solid. Paths along the streams are particularly rewarding since the city keeps the path clear of snow and ice. If you need some tips on where to direct your steps, here are a few of my favorites. Quick Jaunt

Longe r Tre k

E pic Hike

Itaewon Apgujeong This is a largely downhill trip. After lunch in the ‘Twon, walk east to the first intersection after Rocky Mountain Tavern and turn right. This little road snakes its way down the hill to central Hannam. At the major intersection under the underpass, turn right and walk toward the Hannam Bridge, which crosses the Han. I like this bridge for its lion sculptures and its views of the more attractive Banpo and Dongho bridges. A major interchange awaits south of the river, but a crossing signal will help you out. Once on the street on to which you “exited,” turn left and go under the bridge. Continue east, and Apgu will soon rear its surgically-altered head. Estimated time: 1 hour

Hansung University Itaewon Start at Hansung University Station on Line 4. Go out exit 6 and turn right. Soon, you’ll find yourself in Seongbuk-dong, one of Seoul’s most scenic neighborhoods. Continue uphill: things get steeper here. Before long, you’ll be in Bugaksan Park overlooking downtown. A twisty downhill road leads to Bukchon-dong, Seoul’s Hanok village. Go west and land in tony Samcheong-dong, where it becomes obvious that the North Side is still the real rich part of town. Keep going south to impressive Sejong Road, follow it through City Hall Plaza and on to Namdaemun gate. From here, veer left, then left again at the next fork and walk along the southern slope of Namsan. From here it’s easy to finish your trip in HBC (Haebangchon) or Itaewon, or at the Grand Hyatt if you’re a baller. Estimated time: 4 hours

Bundang Samseong-dong Star t in the burbs, Bundang south of Seoul. From Jeongja, Sunae, or Seohyun stations, the Tancheon is a quick jump to the east. At the river, start walking north. Just keep going. Corner stores are far less frequent, as are public transit exit plans, so gear up. The Tancheon goes from suburbia to rural, passes Seoul Airfield where military aircraft often run drills, cuts through southern Songpa-gu, and finally ends in Samseong-dong. Coex Mall makes for a great place to warm up. Estimated time: 5-6 hours

52 | 10 Magazine February 2012

SEOUL DIRECTORY

Seoul Foreigner Assistance

Law Firm

t 10 Veterinarians t 10 vet burses t State of the art equipment CT, MRI, Digital X-Ray, U/S, Laser therapy

t International pet transportation service

SEOUL

ATEK (Association for Teachers of English in Korea) atek.or.kr Seoul Dasan (City Info) 02-120 Seoul Global Center global.seoul.go.kr 02-1688-0120 Yeoksam English 02-3453-9038 Yeonnam Chinese 02-6406-8151 Seorae French 02-570-6009 Ichon Japanese 02-2199-8882 Itaewon/Hannam English 02-2199-8883~5

counseling, and package goods. Mon - Fri 10 am - 7 pm, Sat 10 am - 5 pm, Sun 1 - 5 pm. 02-796-9633 Unique Travel Itaewon 02-792-0606 Xanadu Travel xanadu.co.kr 02-795-7771

Accessories

On hats & luggage tags

Only takes 1 minute

Noksapyeong Itaewon McDonald’s Market

Burger King Hannam-dong International Arcade

02-796-9052 Ambrosia Customized Embroidery You write it, he’ll sew it! It only takes a minute to have your name or message embroidered on hats, luggage tags, backpacks, T-shirts, ties and jackets. 56-9, Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. mrnameonhat.co.kr 02-796-9052

A Few Good Lawyers

US & Korean Attorneys Civil & Criminal

JM Law Group Hard to find a good lawyer in Korea? We at JM Law Group will fight for your legal rights from employment disputes to business transactions. For a free consultation, please email us at kkim@jmlaw.co.kr Flower

25% Discount

for US soldiers and English teachers Coolpet Building, 35-3 Samseong-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 02-3443-8275 www.dr-pet.co.kr

Insurance

Samsung Fire and Marine Insurance Automobile and motorcycle insurance provided by one of Korea’s most reliable conglomerates. Also available; Life/ Annuities, Business/Fire, Supplemental Medical, Travel Insurance. 010-3232-0625 Radio

TBS eFM FM 101.3 American Forces Network AM 1530 / FM 102.7

Flowershop31 Free delivery in Seoul and Gyeonggi Province. English, Chinese, Japanese: 1688-3731 Korean 02-415-3731 flowershop31.com

Transportation

Hotels/Accommodations

International Taxi (English Speaking) 1644-2255 Jumbo Taxi Service (more expensive) 02-888-2000 Interactive Subway Map smrt.co.kr

KoreaHotel.com Korea’s version of Expedia. koreahotel.com 4-5 Star Hotels Astoria 02-2268-7111 COEX InterContinental 02-3452-2500 Courtyard 02-2638-3000 Grand InterContinental 02-555-5656 JW Marriott 02-6282-6262 Millenium Hilton 02-753-7788 Renaissance 02-555-0501 Ritz-Carlton 02-3451-8000 Hostels Guest House Baenang Yongsan 010-9071-4641

Travel Agencies

Cosmojin Tour cosmojin.com 02-318-0345 Fides Travel fidestravel.co.kr 02-755-5470 JNC Travel Itaewon Itching to travel? This travel agent offers worldwide discount air tickets, hotels, professional

10 Magazine February 2012 | 53

SEOUL DIRECTORY Guesthouse Korea Jongno guesthouseinkorea.com 02-3675-2205 Bebop Guesthouse Hongdae bebop-guesthouse.com, 070-8261-4835 Kim’s Guesthouse Hongdae kimsguesthouse.com 02-337-9894 Namu Guesthouse Hongdae namugh.co.kr 070-8291-4878 Olympic Parktel Jamsil parktel.co.kr 02-410-2114 Seoul Backpackers Myeongdong seoulbackpackers.com 02-3672-1972 Medical Services

SEOUL

A Plus Dental aplusnetworks.co.kr 02-3442-7616 Hus Hu Dental & Skin Clinic hus-hu.com 02-519-8013 Ideal Wellness Center Are you ready to upgrade your health? Get the help of US Board Certified Chiropractor, Dr. William Choi, sports trainer and massage specialist at this comfortable chiropractic clinic. idealwellness.co.kr 02-790-7246 Jaseng Hospital of Oriental Medicine Are you suffering from back or neck pain? Visit the non-surgical spinal specialists. jaseng.net 02-3218-2167 Korea Counseling Psychological Association krcpa.or.kr 02-498-8293 Korea HIV/AIDS Prevention & Support Center khap.org 02-927-4322 New York Wholistic Care Dr. Vincent Jong, an experienced New York chiropractor, uses pilates/yoga and body balancing therapy to help you reenergize your mind and achieve optimal health. F2, 736-21 Hannam-dong, Yongsangu. nywc.co.kr 02-792-2296 Ra Dental Clinic 02-569-8745 Tufts Dental Clinic 02-553-7512

Bikram Yoga Gangnam Feel the 105°F heat of the original Bikram Yoga with 90-minute classes taught by passionate instructors. Behind the Kyobo Tower building, Sinnonhyeon Stn. (line 9, ex. 7). bikramyogakorea.co.kr 02-532-2101 Bellydance Lessons with Eshe Morning, afternoon, and evening classes, plus Sunday classes at the Well Being Studio. navah@live.com Fine Art Class Myeongdong 7 -1 pm Fridays. cafe.daum.net/artd 02-771-2026 Ballet Stretching Itaewon Dance your days away with a diverse selection of classes available: child ballet, yoga, tae bo, yoga for pregnant women, pilates, diet dance, and even salsa classes. Private training available. Mon–Fri open 9 am–10 pm. 124-7 Itaewon-dong, yongsan-gu. 010-9309-9021

Berlin Noksapyeong Combining a restaurant, cafe and lounge, Berlin boasts a varied menu, plus wines and all types of music. Noksapyeong St. (line 6). 457-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. awakeinseoul@gmail.com 02-749-0903

Learn Korean from a pro. All of our Korean language teachers have a Masters Degree in Teaching Korean as a Second Language or are getting one. And they all have years of experience teaching people like you! InterCultural Communications Learn Korean at your home or office from experienced, professional Korean language teachers. 02-512-8443

Dulwich College Seoul Banpo The curriculum from Toddlers to Year 8 (ages 18 months to 14 years) follows the best practice of the Early Years Foundation Stage Framework and English National Curriculum, enhanced for an international setting. 02-3015-8500

International Guides of Korea Courses in ice climbing, rock climbing and more. iguidekorea.com Jai Center for Yoga and Health jaicenter.co.kr 02-3443-9642 Sanirang Alpine Networks This climbing service offers lessons, clinics, and guided tours. sanirang.net, info@sanirang.net Bars/Lounges/Pubs

Wine Bars Dulce Y Suave Garosugil Stop by this classy Sinsa-dong wine bar for an extensive wine list that won’t break your budget. 5 pm - 3 am. 02-515-6750

Speaking Listening Diction Presentation 그레고리 에트하트 영어 프레젠테이션, 비즈니스 영어, 메디컬 영어, 영어회화, 취업 유학 준비, 영어발표, TOEFL 말하기와 작문

G re g o ry Eth e a r t 0 10 - 9 9 3 0 - 7 6 5 6 WY Dentistry Gangnam Better than your dentist back home. Dr. Yoo is a US-trained and licensed dentist with over 20 years of clinical dental experience serving the expat community since 1996. wydent.com 02-514-5575 Classes

Access Consciousness What if the life you imagined was actually possible? Regular classes held in Seoul & around Korea. Contact Nate at 010-6285-6283 or nhkent@gmail.com

54 | 10 Magazine February 2012

B1 Itaewon One of the most hopping bars in Itaewon on any given night, with guest DJs and a good vibe. 7 pm - 3 am. 02-749-6164

Greg’s English Private effective English conversational speaking and listening lessons for adults, middle and high school students. TOEFL, ILETS gregblex@gmail.com 010-9930-7656

Vin Ga Apgujeong Immaculate service and a subdued atmosphere make this the wine bar of choice for dinner parties and business meetings. Podo Plaza building near Apgujeong St. podoplaza.co.kr 02-516-1761 Lounges / PUBS 3 Alley Pub Itaewon Rub shoulders with long-term Seoul expats and try your hands at darts or pool in this comfortable foreigner-owned pub. 116-15 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. 3alleypub.com 02-749-3336 Bar Rouge Itaewon Luxurious wine and tapas bar in the basement of the JW Marriot in Gangnam. Happy hour Tue - Thu 6 - 9 pm. 02-6282-6763 Beer O’Clock The bar in Sinchon has darts and several sports on big-screen TVs with great food. The Gyeongnidan location will satisfy your Canadian-style pizza needs. Beer O’Clock serves up good times. Sinchon: 02-333-9733

Between Itaewon This multi-level lounge serves contemporary Italian and Spanish mains, lunch, brunch and tapas in a sophisticated atmosphere with live DJs and a spacious terrace. 124-7 Yongsangu, Itaewon-dong. 02-795-6164 Bliss Itaewon Fresh beats by DJ Shine and a reasonably priced menu. Itaewon. 4 pm – 4 am. 02-798-1125 BricX Hongdae, Itaewon Chill out at either of BricX’s two locations. Hongdae 6 pm – 5 am, 마포구 서교동 409-1, B1, 02-3141-5571. Itaewon 7 pm – 5 am, 용산구 이태원동 119-10, B1, bricx.com 02-795-5572 The Bungalow Itaewon This quirky beach-themed bar has sand on the floor, swinging chairs, and candle-lit rooms. 02-793-2344 Coffee Bar K Cheongdam-dong A Japanese franchise, they may just have the best bartenders in town. Mon – Sat 6 pm - 2 am. 02-516-1970 The Concorde Classic and cozy, this wine and martini bar offers an intimate and timeless atmosphere. Reuben sandwiches, quiche, soups and salads available till 1:00 am. 02-749-1210 Craftworks Taphouse Itaewon Whet your whistle with fine craft beers including Korea’s first IPA, and stave off your appetite with some great eats. craftworkstaphouse.com 02-794-ALES

Advertise in our Directory! It’s inexpensive and helps expats and tourists find YOU! marketing@10magazine.asia or 02-3447-1611

Dillinger’s A classic-styled bar with seven beers on tap, great food and drink specials. Come enjoy our large flatscreen TVs, dartboards and Wii games. A great atmosphere for you and your friends. 02-793-7232

eight flat screens throughout the bar along with the meanest plate of pork ribs to be found in Seoul. samryans.com 02-749-7933

SEOUL

Phillies Haebangchon The legendary local bar is now remodeled and under new ownership. Great burgers and wings. 02-793-2548 Scrooge Pub/Dicken’s Lounge Itaewon A great little sports bar with pool, darts, delicious food and plenty of English-speaking staff. 02-797-8201 Seoul Pub Crawl Meet cool people, play drinking games and party all night long. Where the bars get louder, the drinks get cheaper and the people get better looking. www.seoulpubcrawl. webs.com 010-5839-9257 Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong Great home-style Italian cuisine and all-day brunch with an extensive wine, cocktail and beer selection. This is the best that Noksapyeong/Gyeongnidan has to offer. More info on Facebook: “Noxa Lounge.” 02-790-0776 Platoon Kunsthalle Apgujeong Showcasing underground artists and a fine selection of cutting-edge performances. 11 am – 1 am. Closed Sun. 97-22 Gangnam-gu, Nonhyeondong. kunsthalle.com 02-3447-1191

Seventy Four Cheongdam-dong A beautiful date spot featuring exotic drinks such as cheese martinis, banana mojitos and cuba libres. 7 pm – 4 am. 02-542-7412 Tony’s Aussie Bar & Bistro Itaewon Home of W6000 Guinness & Kilkenny on tap. Non–smoking environment with authentic Aussie food, beer & wine with Monday open mic and Wednesday comedy night. tonysitaewon.com 02-790-0793 Wolfhound Itaewon Terrific Irish/British classic food in a true Irish Pub atmosphere, including shepherd’s pie, toad in a hole, fish n’ chips, bangers n’ mash along with Guinness and Kilkenny on draft. wolfhoundpub.com 02-749-7971

Canadian Pub & Restaurant Monday Dry Rib Night Tuesday

Burgers & Bar 3F

ight

Wing N

• W300 / wing • 11 different flavors • W5,500 cocktails Friday Bar special Saturday Live music/DJ Sat/Sun Truck Stop Brunch

www.rockymountaintavern.com 010-5189-2327 010-7196-0857 Rocky Mountain Tavern Itaewon Canadians feel right at home with all the hockey jerseys hanging on the walls and great live music and events, along with some of the best buffalo wings in Korea. Don’t miss the Stand Up Seoul comedy night the first Thursday of each month. rockymountaintavern.com 010-5775-2327 Sam Ryan’s Itaewon This newcomer to the Itaewon scene offers sports fans

• Winter Beer Special Cass 500 cc only W2,300! • 2 Beer Pong Tables! • Best Nachos in Korea!

Sinchon 02-333-1604 Yaletown Sinchon Great food using only the best ingredients. Owned by a former NHL/NBA reporter, request your favorite game to watch! Now featuring “Barcraft.” 02-333-1604

10 Magazine February 2012 | 55

SEOUL DIRECTORY 7 different cuts of roasted meat and a tremendous Brazilian buffet. Make your reservations today! 02-796-1660

Restaurants

American Chili King Itaewon Beefy burgers and chili served up by owner Kevin Cyr. 02-795-1303

One Year Anniversary going on NOW! SEOUL

Stop by today and enter to WIN over 20 prizes!!

Bonji Bistro Just behind Itaewon Hotel and under Gecko’s Garden, Bonji Bistro offers a terrific menu of salads, sandwiches, pastas and classic tapas along with an unbeatable bar. The floor-to-ceiling window door-walls open wide, making it the perfect place to be for their delicious weekend brunch. geckosterrace.com 02-795-9656 The Frypan Delicious fried chicken near Itaewon Station. 02-794-5598 Gallery Through Head here to enjoy fantastic meals, parties, art, and people. 02-3444-9700 Gecko’s Terrace The original Itaewon foreigner hangout, with a comfortable atmosphere, delicious food including great sandwiches, salads and pasta, and English-speaking staff that know how to make cocktails and shots right. geckosterrace.com 02-749-9425 Gecko’s Garden Legendary for its gorgeous home-style atmosphere, Gecko’s Garden has now started offering a delicious buffet, with steaks and pasta made to order. Don’t worry; the tapas menu is also still alive and well. geckosterrace.com 02-790-0540

Kimchi Pots

• Boutique wines • Excellent meats cut to order • Fresh-baked European breads • High end cheeses • And everything in between

High Street Market (2nd floor)

Exit #1

Hangangjin Station

HIGH STREET MARKET

Itaewon Station

Cheil Building 제일기획

PARK HERE

Hannam-dong Community Center Parking Lot

Subway: Line 2 to Itaewon Station exit #2 Go straight and High Street Market is on your left. Line 6 Hangangjin Station exit #1 Go straight and High Street Market will be on your right

Phone: 02-790-5450 Fax: 02-790-5457 www.highstreet.co.kr 56 | 10 Magazine February May 20112012

Hollywood Grill The place for Premier League Football and other sports, Hollywood has a great menu of pizza, pasta and steaks along with darts, foosball, pool and Golden Tee. 02-749-1659

The Pizza Peel Itaewon Offering fresh classic Italian and Western-style pizzas. Enjoy with beer or wine. Hard to find but easy to remember! Dine in or take out. 02-795-3283 Suji’s Itaewon Great American fare in a New York-style bistro atmosphere. sujis.net 02-797-3698 T.G. Brunch Cafe Chef Choi from Hawaii serves a delightful brunch along with his signature burgers, sandwiches, and more. Wine W2,500 for ladies. Wednesdays wing night: 10 for W3,000. 02-749-8005 Austrian Chef Meili Itaewon

Italian Fradia Gangnam Gaze out on a panoramic view of the Seoul skyline as you dine on choice Italian food at this cafe floating on the Han River. fradia.co.kr 02-3477-0033 La Bocca Itaewon We can’t decide whether it’s a cafe, pastry shop, deli, or wine bar, but what we are sure about is that the food is fresh and the taste is divine. 02-790-5907 Sortino’s Cucina Itaewon Classic Italian trattoria cuisine in a comfortable, homey atmosphere. 02-797-0488 Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong 02-790-0776 Villa Sortino’s Itaewon An incredible Tuscan Villa interior matches perfectly with some tastefully prepared Italian flavors. Just across from the Itaewon fire station. 02-553-9000

Maple Tree House (단풍나무집) Itaewon Classy Korean BBQ in the alley just behind the Hamilton Hotel (other branches are located in Samcheongdong and Dogok-dong). 116-1 Itaewondong, Yongsan-gu. 02-790-7977 Mexican

Indigo A cozy cafe boasting terrific international favorites like their chicken pesto sandwich and a legendary weekend brunch at great prices. Free wifi. 02-749-0508

Pancakes Original Story Itaewon Mon – Sat 9 am – 10 pm. 02-794-0508

IP Boutique Hotel

Exit #2

Gyeongridan

Naked Grill Terrific Mexican food, salads and steaks, cooked up to order in a trendy atmosphere. 02-749-4225

COMING SOON: Do all your shopping online. Check us out: www.HighStreet.kr.co

02-749-0600

Chinese Ho Lee Chow Serving up the best North American-style Chinatown cuisine in Korea since 1998, with 5 convenient locations in the greater Seoul area to serve you. holeechow.co.kr. Itaewon 02-793-0802, Apgujeong 02-514-1730 Jamshil 02-411-0688, Dogok 02-34614468, Bundang 02-711-9071

korean Bulgogi Brothers Delicious Koreanstyle barbecue at locations throughout Seoul including Gangnam, Myeongdong (02-319-3351), Seoul Station, and Times Square. 11:30 am - 10 pm. bulgogibros.com

FUSION RESTAURANT TEL: 02.749.0508

Noksapyeong Station Exit 2

Bulgarian Zelen Itaewon

02-797-3820

Amigos Itaewon

02-795-9711

On the Border The #1 American chain hits that craving for fajitas, chimichangas, tacos, burritos, enchiladas and even margaritas. ontheborder.co.kr Sinchon: 02-324-0682 COEX: 02-565-0682 Times Square: 02-2672-0682 Pancho’s Itaewon

02-792-4767

Taco Amigo Itaewon

02-749-5253

Tomatillo Grill Locations at Jonggak Stn., Samseong Stn., and Yeoksam Stn. tomatillo.co.kr 02-734-9225 Middle Eastern Marakech Nights Itaewon 02-795-9441 Petra Itaewon

02-790-4433

SPANISH Bodega Jamsil With flamenco every Friday. bodega.co.kr 02-3432-8686 Thai Buddha’s Belly Itaewon A lounge atmosphere with full bar and cocktails along with great authentic Thai food. 02-796-9330 Eat Me Itaewon Thai fusion dining and lounge, late night kitchen in Itaewon. Relax in the intimate yet casual dining area and outside patio. Sophisticated atmosphere is sure to please. 070-7624-3149

BRAZILIAN

My Thai Itaewon

02-794-8090

Copacabana Itaewon For only W29,000 you get all-you-can-eat of

Thai Orchid Itaewon

02-795-3338

Thai Garden Itaewon

02-792-8836

Wang Thai Itaewon Prepared by locally trained chefs, Wang Thai offers only the best of Thai food. Enjoy delicious food in an exotic ambience. 02-749-2746~7 Live Music

Jazz All That Jazz Itaewon 02-795-5701 Cheonnyeondongando (천년동안도) Daehangno (Hyehwa St. Line4) chunnyun.com 02-743-5555 Club Evans Hongdae clubevans.com 02-337-8361 Club Palm Hongdae clubpalm.co.kr 02-336-9016 Once in a Blue Moon Apgujeong onceinabluemoon.co.kr 02-549-5490

02-514-4311 Ben @Blue Spirit Hongdae Great Japanese curry during the day and soju cocktails at night. Hit up the weekend parties. 360-18 SeokyoDong, Mapo-Gu. 02-3142-5301 Eden Gangnam Mega club with top DJs, sizzling sound, and model nights. 역삼동 602 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnamgu, Ritz Carlton Hotel. eden-club.co.kr 010-9913-3919 Function Itaewon The boutique club hidden in the fancy Macaroni Market restaurant. Tue, Wed, Thu 6 pm – 2:30 am; Fri and Sat 6 pm-3:30 am. 737-50 Hannnam1-dong Yongsan-gu. 02-749-9181

SEOUL

Heaven Gangnam The newest member of Seoul’s club scene combines top-notch technology with divine DJs spinning house and electro beats. W30,000 general admission, W40,000 for after club hours. Near Yeoksam St. clubheaven.co.kr 02-3444-4997 J.J. Mahoney’s The drinks don’t come cheap, but this nightclub at the Grand Hyatt is a favorite with the over-30s crowd. 747-7 Hannam 2-dong. seoul.grand.hyatt.com 02-797-1234 Koobar @Blue Spirit Apgujeong Hip music for a classy crowd. 664-11 Shinsadong, Gangnam-gu. 02-518-5115 M2 Hongdae This long-running club is party central for college students. Sun – Thu 8 pm – 4 am, Fri and Sat 7:30 pm – 6 am. Cover starts at W10,000. 36711 Seogyo-dong Mapo-gu. ohoo.net/m2 02-3143-7573

Oakwood Premier Woori Bank

COEX

InterContinental Hotel

Hyundai Department Store

Teheranno

LINE Line 22 Samseong Stn.

Tokyo Jazz Authentic jazz music performed Mon-Sat, 9:30 pm - 12:30 am by European, American, and Korean musicians. Two minute’s walking distance from the COEX and Grand InterContinental Hotels. 153-44 Samsung-dong. 02-3453-4472 Rock Freebird Hongdae cafe.navercom/ clubfreebird 02-335-4576 Jammers Hongdae jammers.co.kr 02- 325-3914 Just Blues Apgujeong justblues.co.kr 02-542-4788 SoundHolic Hongdae cafe.daum.net/SoundHolic Clubs

Club Hamilton Hotel Fire Station

n Statio

Itaewo

KB Bank

Police Station

[ Itaewon Station Exit 3 ] Tel: 793.2333

America Latina Itaewon opens at 8 pm Wednesdays to Sundays and offers Salsa classes. Check Facebook group: Club America Latina in Seoul. Answer Cheongdam-dong After a short-lived stint as gala restaurant Le Nuit Blanche, the club we all know and love is back. clubanswer.co.kr

Mystik Itaewon DJ Yeonjun and DJ Crew team up with international artists to bring you some off-the-hook parties with minimal, techno, and tech house. 010-3440-9474 NB Hongdae, Gangnam Supposedly the first hip-hop club in Korea, it has one bar, two stages, and a packed crowd. clubnb.com 02-326-1716 Q-vo Hongdae A popular hip hop club with strobes pulsing above the dance floor. Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun 8 pm – 4 am and Wed, Fri, Sat 8 pm – 6:30 am. W10,000 - W15,000. 121-210 Ohoo B/ D 367-1 Seogyo Dong. clubqvo.co.kr 02-3143-7573 Volume Itaewon A true “music lovers” club, Volume is found in the basement of Crown Hotel. Fri and Sat 9 pm - 6 am. W15,000 - W30,000. Crown Hotel B1 clubvolume.com 1544-2635 Woo Bar Check out the split-level lobby lounge for cool music and exclusive parties. No cover charge. 21 Gwangjang-dong wseoul.com 02-465-2222 02-3142-4233 Cafes

Caffé Bene Coffee, gelatos, and waffles are on the menu at the 400 Caffé Bene outlets across Korea. caffebene.co.kr 02-3438-6888

10 Magazine February 2012 | 57

SEOUL DIRECTORY Beauty

Korean Tours

Jay’s Hairdressing Itaewon Stylists trained at Tony&Guy and Vidal Sassoon Academy bring out the best in your hair. 2F 126-17 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. 070-4227-6158 Marie&M Gangnam The right haircut makes all the difference! All staff at this salon are qualified by Vidal Sassoon. 02-512-3798 Tony&Guy Whether it’s a cut, highlight, low light, or hair spa that you want, you’re guaranteed to get professional service from the English-speaking stylists at Toni & Guy. Near Hongik University. 02-338-2773

Adventure Korea adventurekorea.com 018-242-5536 Explore Korea This Jeju local travel company specializes in private getaways and special group tours to Jeju Island. They offer inexpensive tours with high quality service. explorekorea.net 070-4254-3956/ 010-2697-3955 Korean Safari koreansafari.com 019-542-2955 O’ngo Culinary Tours Korean food tours and cooking classes in Seoul. Tours and classes are taught by Korean food experts. Experience the culture through the cuisine. ongofood.com 010-6661-7769 Royal Asiatic Society Korea Branch raskb.com 02-763-9483 USO DMZ Tours affiliates.uso.org/korea 02-795-3028 WOW Corea Tour wowcoreatour.com 02-739-3337

Massage

SEOUL

Healing Hands Massage Studio healinghands.co.kr 070-7504-8090 Community

Brazilians in Seoul Also known as Brasileiros em Seul, this group meets up on the 3rd Tuesday of each month. alocoreia@gmail.com 010-9631-2133 Gangnam Hills Toastmasters Club Helping you develop oral communication and leadership skills. koreatraining@ yahoo.com 010-8779-1969 Republicans Abroad Monthly meetings, events, and lectures for supporters of the USA Republican Party. kmohay@hotmail.com 010-8688-9810 Gourmet Foods

High Street Market Itaewon Freshbaked bread, choice beef cuts, imported cheese, and value-for-money wines, and all in one shop. 737-24 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu. 02-790-5450 Proudly supplied by Kobeak Foods©

Museums

Gahoe Museum gahoemuseum.org 02-741-0466 World Jewelry Museum wjmuseum.com 02-730-1610 Kimchi Field Museum kimchimuseum.co.kr 02-6002-6456 Kyung-in Museum of Fine Art Kyunginart.co.kr 02-733-4448 Leeum Samsung Museum of Art leeum.org 02-2014-6901 Museum of Korean Traditional Music ncktpa.go.kr 02-580-3130 National Folk Museum nfm.go.kr 02-3704-3114 National Museum of Korea museum.go.kr 02-2077-9000 National Palace Museum of Korea gogung.go.kr 02-3701-7500 Seoul Art Center sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Seoul Museum of Art seoulmoa.seoul.go.kr 02-120 Seoul National Science Museum ssm.go.kr 02-3668-2200 War Memorial warmemo.or.kr 02-709-3139

Religious

Buddhist Seoul International Zen Center seoulzen.org 02-900-4326 Vairocana International Buddhist Meditation Center 02-735-5347 Jetavana Meditation Center jetavanacenter@gmail.com 02-595-5115 Catholic Bomun 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Dongducheon 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Hannam International Church English, Italian, Spanish, French 02-793-2070 Hyewha-dong Catholic Church 02-764-0221 (press 6) Jinjob 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Keumchon 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Pastral Center for Labor English, Vietnamese, Thai 02-924-2721 Salesio Labor Center Tagalog, Daelim 1 dong 02-765-0870 Sung-dong Social Welfare Center Tagalog 02-765-0870 Yoksam-dong Church 02-553-0801 Catholics in South Korea Facebook Group, Annamarie at sunshineamore25@gmail.com Islam Seoul Central Masjid 02-794-7307 Protestant Gwanglim Church 02-2056-5732 International Lutheran 02-794-6274 Jubilee Church 02-569-2293 Korean Rainbow Christian Fellowship krcf.weebly.com Kumnan Church 02-490-7000 Myungsung Presbyterian 02-440-9000 Onnuri Church 02-793-9686 Presbyterian Church of the Lord empcl.org 010-2266-6453 Somang Presbyterian 02-512-9191 Seoul Union Church 02-333-7393 Yoido Full Gospel Church 02-782-4851 Yongsan Baptist Church 02-796-0284

Advertise here Get results with 10 Magazine. marketing@10mag.com

58 | 10 Magazine February 2012

GANGWON CALENDAR Art Through March 11th Seeing Mt. Geumgang Again Relics from Mt. Geumgang are exhibited at Sokcho Museum and the Displaced Citizens Folk Village. 9 am - 5 pm. Adults W2,000, teens W1,500, children W700. sokchomuse.go.kr 033-639-2977

At this exhibition, you can play instruments from past ages as well as hi-tech modern electronic instruments. Chuncheon Culture and Arts Center. 10 am - 6 pm. Children W15,000, adults W12,000. ccac.or.kr 033-255-6663 February 6th

Performance Ongoing The Manic Show: Comedy and Magic Magician Choi Hyeon-u and comedian Jo Won-seok will entertain you with amusing magic tricks and gags. Gangwon Tourist Pension in Jeongsun. Saturdays and Sundays, 7 pm. W20,000. ticket.interpark.com 033-592-5942

February 11th Kim Kyung Ho in Concert Korean rock singer Kim Kyung-ho, whose vocal range spans four octaves, is holding a concert at Gangneung Gymnasium. 7 pm. W66,000 - W99,000. ticket.interpark.com 033- 647-2004

Education & Conferences Ongoing Pottery Making Class Professional potters teach you how to fire pottery by hand. Your pottery will be shipped to you. Seokbong Ceramic Museum in Sokcho. Closed Mon. 9 am – 6 pm (3 hours per lesson). W15,000. dogong.net 033-638-7711

Sport & Fitness Dozens of volleyball and basketball games are scheduled for this month. Volleyball games are listed at kovo.co.kr (mostly Korean, though some events are listed in English). Men’s basketball games are listed at kbl.or.kr (Korean only) and women’s games at wkbl.or.kr (also Korean only).

Family & Community Through February 5th Inje Ice Fish Festival Have fun catching some ice fish or smelt. Soyang Lake, Inje-gun. injefestival.co.kr 033-461-0373 Taebaek Mountain Snow Festival A parade, ice sculptures, huge snowmen, and ice slides will help you enjoy the cold weather. Test your arctic survival skills at this festival. Downtown Taebaek and Taebaek Mountain Provincial Park. festival.taebaek.go.kr 033-550-2085 Pyeongchang Trout Festival In addition to ice fishing and trout tasting, snow and ice game zones will keep you entertained. A whole day of ice fishing is W13,000. Pyeongchang-gun. festival700.or.kr 033-336-4000 Through February 6th “Seondeung” Street of Lamps Stroll down a 5-km stretch of road beautifully decorated with lamps called seondeung, meaning “lights leading to nirvana.” Jungang-ro, Hwacheon-eup, Hwacheongun. narafestival.com 1688-3005 Through February 12th Experiment with Diverse Instruments

Gangneung Full Moon “Daeboreum” Festival See the full moon and learn more about Korean culture through fun and often surprising activities. At the Dano Field near Namdaecheon Stream in Noam-dong, Gangneung. gntour.go.kr 033-643-2886

gangwon PROVINCE Hotels/Accommodations Hotel Inter-Burgo Wonju wonju.inter-burgo.com 033-766-8000 W Hotel Wonju w-hotel.co.kr 033-742-5454

Foreigner Assistance Chuncheon Online Info tour.chuncheon.go.kr/eng

Medical Services Gangwon National University Hospital Chuncheon k nuh.or.kr/html 033-258-2000 Gangnam Hospital Chuncheon ekangnam.co.kr 033-240-7000 Hyundai Animal Clinic Chuncheon dog7582.co.kr 033-256-7582 Ye Dental Clinic Chuncheon ccye.co.kr 033-262-2078

Libraries Chuncheon City Library iccl.or.kr 033-254-3887 Taebaek Municipal Library tbmlib.or.kr 033-550-2755

Museums Bangsan Porcelain Museum Yanggu Browse through the exhibits of Joseonera white clay pottery or sign up for classes to learn how to make it yourself. 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W1,000, teens W700, children W500. bangsanm.or.kr 033-480-2664 Byeolmaru Observatory Yeongwol At 800 meters above sea level, this is your best chance to see the stars on the Korean peninsula. Five tours daily at 2, 3, 6, 8, and 9 pm. Adults W5,000, students W4,000. yao.or.kr 033-374-7460 Mooee Arts Center Pyeongchang Sculpture garden, painting exhibits, and pottery, illustration, and calligraphy workshops available for individuals and groups upon request. 9 am – 7 pm. Adults W2,000, students W1,000. Closed 1st and 3rd Mon. mooee.co.kr 033-335-6700 Sokbong Ceramic Museum Sokcho The pottery on display here spans the United Silla,Goryeo, and Joseon Dynasties. Pottery lessons available. 9 am – 6 pm. Adults W3,500, teens W2,000, children W1,500. Closed Mon. dogong.net 033-638-7711

Early Bird Olympic Fever Explore the pre-2018 Winter Olympic grounds at Pyeongchang-gun before everything changes. The farming county of Pyeongchang will soon transform into the top tourist destination in Gangwon-do. A KTX line from Seoul is already in the works and construction is popping up everywhere. Why not seize the snowflake and have a gander at the future Olympic sights before the crowds come? Although technically not part of Pyeongchang-gun, the rinks and speed skating circles in Gangneung will be the location of a great many sporting events. Make it your first stop on your preOlympics Pyeongchang tour. The venues aren’t up and built yet, but stop by Gangneung Ice Rink (강릉 빙상경기장) for a local hockey game and catch the Olympic fever early. Heat up after watching others exercise with a hike along one of Pyeongchang’s many trails. Odaesan National Park (오대산 국립공원) boasts the best trails in the area. Take a leisurely hike in the snow or a sweat-out-the-winter-blues full day hike. Wrap up your visit with skiing at one of the 2018 Olympic resorts: Yongpyong or Alpensia. The former offers 18 runs, 15 lifts and a 3.7 km gondola ride (make sure you buy a lift ticket that includes the gondola if you want the longest run). Alpensia offers 6 slopes with 3 lifts. Both are snowboarder friendly and have night skiing available. Go early or late to avoid the afternoon lift lines. Getting There

• Gangneung Ice Rink in

Gangneung ask a taxi for bingsang gyeongijang (빙상 경기장) to get to the rink. • Odaesan National Park Take the bus to Jinbu, then local buses to Odaesan Park. Jump off at Woljeonsa Temple for a stroll or Sangwonsa for the trails. • Yongpyong Resort

yongpyong.co.kr/eng

• Alpensia Resort

www.alpensiaresort.co.kr Words by J u di t h A n n C la nc y and Photos by J u di t h A n n C la nc y and H ugh L ee*

10 Magazine February 2012 | 59

GANGWON

February 5th Shin You in Concert Talented singer Shin You performs trot songs, the oldest form of Korean pop music which kind of sounds like a cross between mariachi and disco. Gangneung Dano Center. 6 - 9 pm. danocenter.kr 033-640-4951

GYEONGGI discovery

A Wall with a View Hwaseong Fortress and the City That Surrounds It Words and shots by Conor O’Re i lly

Hwaseong Fortress and the city of Suwon are so intertwined that it would be difficult to fully appreciate one without experiencing the other.

waseong Fortress, Suwon’s most famous landmark, is an 18th century fortification encircling the city’s center. Hwaseong was built under the reign of King Jeongju when he moved the royal court to Suwon, and the wall and its environs were awarded UNESCO World Heritage status in 1997. But, to visit Suwon, you would not be given the impression that the city is revelling in the honour of being home to one of Korea’s first UNESCO World Heritage sites. Despite occasional bus stops and signs, Hwaseong Fortress is not overtly advertised. It’s not ignored; it’s more like it’s just accepted as another part of the city, like a park or major river that has always defined the city’s character. Liken this to Seoul, where you arrive at a site like Dongdaemun to find the large stone gate, essentially standing there minding its own business as the city roars around it. Hwaseong Fortress exists similarly within Suwon, which has grown in and around the high and thick stone walls. Hwaseong Fortress has much to marvel at, but to really experience it you must take the easy-going 6 km trek around its battlements. Do not be put off by the imposing Paldalsan which looks down on Paldalmun gate, where most excursions begin. Hwaseong encircles the centre of the city, so consider going the opposite direction. From Paldalmun gate walk down the wide market street perpendicular to the gate, cross the bridge and take an immediate left. Around thirty metres in front of you is a set of steps that will lead up to the battlements close to Bongdon (봉돈, Beacon Tower). From here Hwaseong comes into its own. Up on the wall the 60 | 10 Magazine February 2012

change in the decibel level is immediately noticeable. By taking this route, you not only save your energy to enjoy the walk, but you also allow yourself the ideal opportunity of finishing off your visit on top of Paldalsan, which offers a spectacular view of Suwon as the sun is setting. While exploring the many unique towers and gates that make up the fortress wall, it’s well worth appreciating how the city has grown around the wall over the past two hundred years. Quiet and peaceful neighbourhoods blend in with the huge stone fortifications giving the impression they have always been there together. The wall serves as a local amenity for residents who can be seen picnicking and relaxing in its peaceful environment: undoubtedly, a far cry from what the original designers imagined. Surrounded on either side by alleys, take a moment to wander off the main route and explore the old neighbourhoods, such as at Hwahongmun (화홍문) where Suwoncheon stream (수원천) passes through the wall. Here, the walls around the quiet neighbourhood close to Hwaseomun-ro street (화서문로) have been decorated with vibrantly painted murals by local artists. For large stretches of your walk along the wall you will find that you are alone, experiencing new and more amazing views of the early modern military and 20th century urban architecture coalescing uniquely and often beautifully with every bend the wall makes. The city and its 200-year-old wall are always at their own perfect point of fusion. For transportation options to Hwaseong Fortress and more, visit ehs.suwon.ne.kr.

GYEONGGI CALENDAR Art Through February 26th 2011 International Art Exhibition: The Power of Art Introducing unique pieces of art by contemporary Korean and Chinese artists. Young-eun Art Museum, Gwangju. 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. W2,000 - W4,000. youngeunmuseum.org 031-761-0137 Through March 4th A Journey Through Fairy Tale Pictures A picture book gallery, pop-up gallery, playground, do-it-yourself book art, and other exciting activities are prepared for young visitors. Seongnam Art Center. Imae Stn. (Bundang line, exit 1). 10 am 6 pm. W12,000. snart.or.kr 1688-1187 Hello! Artist Exhibit featuring Kim Heung-do & Sin-sah Im-dang Traditional pieces of art from the Joseon Dynasty have been reproduced in 3D and digilog (digital & analog). Seoul Arts Center. 10 am - 7 pm. W10,000 W11,000. helloartist.co.kr 02-2113-6680 Through March 11th Edward Curtis: Sacred Legacy Edward Curtis spent 30 years recording the American West and Native American culture through more than 40,000 photos. Gyeonggi Arts Center, Suwon. Suwon Stn. (line 1, ex. 4). 11 am - 7 pm. W6,000. curtis.kr 031-230-3440 Through April 1st Dream of Atom: Tezuka Osamu Special Exhibition Korea’s very first exhibition of legendary Japanese cartoonist Tezuka Osamu, known as the Walt Disney of Asia. The exhibit features Osamu’s undisclosed works, journals, background animations and original cartoons. Goyang Aramnuri Aram Art Center. Jungbalsan Stn. (line 3, ex. 3) Tue - Thu & Sun 10 am – 6 pm, Fri & Sat 10 am – 8 pm. Closed Mon. W6,000 W11,000. artgy.or.kr 031-960-0180

and sea of love. Paju. 6 - 11 pm. W3,000 - W5,000. provence.co.kr 1644-8088

Sport & Fitness Dozens of volleyball and basketball games are scheduled for this month. Volleyball games are listed on the website at kovo.co.kr (mostly Korean, though English schedules are also listed). Men’s basketball games are listed on kbl.or.kr (Korean only) and women’s games at wkbl.or.kr (also Korean only). Ongoing Dongnam Spopia Ice Rink Open all year. Don’t forget your gloves. Yeonsudong, Incheon. 10 am - 8 pm. Entrance fee W5,000. Skate rental W4,000. spopia.co.kr 032-814-1331 Ice Hockey All Anyang Halla games are held at Anyang Ice Rink. ansi.or.kr 031-389-5278 11th Halla vs High1, 5 pm, 23rd Halla vs Dragon, 7 pm 25th Halla vs Dragon, 7 pm 26th Halla vs Dragon, 5 pm All Goyang High1 games are held at Goyang Eoullimnuri Ice Rink. spart.gys.or.kr 031-960-0300 12th High1 vs Halla, 1 pm 18th High1 vs Dragon, 1 pm 19th High1 vs Dragon, 7 pm 21st High1 vs Dragon, 7 pm For more information, visit alhockey.com

Dine & Drink Through February 6th Cheongpyeong Trout Festival Come to Cheongpyeong to fish and enjoy various activities on the ice. Trout sashimi, BBQ, and Korean dishes will be provided. Cheongpyeong-myun near Cheongpyeong Stn. 8 am - 6 pm. W7,000 - W9,000. cpfestival.net 031-585-9449

Education & Conference Through February 26th Tutankhamun: His Tomb and His Treasures This exhibition of Egyptian pharaoh Tutankhamun and his treasures includes over 13,000 relics. Gwacheon National Science Museum. Seoul Grand Park Stn. (line 4, ex. 5). 9:30 am - 6:30 pm. Closed Mon. W12,000. tutkorea.com 02-3677-1435 February 24th - 26th Seoul Bike Show 2012 Bikers beware: this one’s not taking place in Seoul! Find all kinds of bicycles as well as cycling attire and accessories at this show. KINTEX Exhibition hall in Ilsan. 10 am - 6 pm (till 5 pm on Feb 26th). W2,000. seoulbikeshow.com 02-529-0691

gyeongGI province Transportation

International Taxi (English speaking) 1644-2255 Jumbo Taxi Service (more expensive) 02-888-2000 Religious Services

Dongsan Church Ansan 010-2910-7809 Global Mission Church Bundang jiguchon.org 031-710-5923 Grace & Truth Church Anyang, Ansan, and Suwon Sunday 9:30 am, 11 am, 1 pm, grace-truth.org 031-443-3731 Radio

Family & Community Through February 9th Hello Kitty Castle Hello Kitty fanciers can jump on the banana bounce, whoosh down the rides, or check out the exhibition. KINTEX in Ilsan. Daewha Stn. (line 3, ex. 2) 10 am - 6 pm. W15,000. kittycastle.co.kr 02-552-8114

US Armed Forces Network Dongducheon AM 1197/FM 88.3 Pyongtaek AM 1440/FM 88.3 Songtan AM 1359/FM 88.5 Uijeongbu AM 1161/FM 88.5 Museums

Through March 4th Happy World with SpongeBob Season 2 Fun activities for children include playing with SpongeBob, watching magic shows, and riding a sleigh. KINTEX in Ilsan. 10 am - 6 pm. W15,000 -W12,000. happyworld1.co.kr 031-995-8275

Central America Culture Center Goyang latina.or.kr 031-962-7171 Elvis Presley Memorial Hall Paju paju.go.kr 031-948-3358 Face Museum Gwangju (Gyeonggi Province) visagej.org 031-765-3522 Korean Lamp (Deung-Jan) Museum Yongin deungjan.or.kr/eng 031-334-0797 Waltz & Dr. Mahn Coffee Museum Namyangju wndcof.com 031-576-6051

Through April 1st Provence Village Light Festival This beautiful light festival is divided into different themes such as four seasons, heart park,

Club Psycho Anyang General open mic every 3rd Friday of the month at 11pm. bcmusicworld.com 010-7754-0409

Clubs

10 Magazine February 2012 | 61

CHUNGCHEONG CALENDAR Art Through February 12th Hwayang Lecture Hall and Mandong Tomb Interested in Confucianism? Check out items related to famous Confucian scholar Song Si-yeol of the Joseon Dynesty. Cheongju National Museum. cjmuseum.org 043-229-6300 Through February 17th China’s Beautiful Scenery Exhibition Limlip Art Museum in Gongju. limlipmuseum.org 041-856-7749 Through February 19th The Beautiful Journey Pieces by acclaimed Korean painter Lee Ungno and sculptor Mun Sin, two artists who shaped contemporary Korean art. Ungno Lee Museum of Art, Daejeon. 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. W500. ungnolee.daejeon.go.kr 042-602-3275

Southern Slopes and Hot Springs

CHUNGCHEONG

Gangwon Province isn’t the only place to ski this winter. Try these slopes in Jeolla and Chungcheong provinces for some southern exposure. Looking for a reason to get outside this winter season? For the avid skier or the beginner, Muju, or Deogyusan Ski Resort, in Jeollabuk-do is a picturesque setting where you’ll find the longest runs in the land of kimchi. You may have to give yourself a pinch and ask, “Am I still in Korea?” Muju’s ski town is modeled after a village you would find in the Rockies. A shuttle helps you get around to the different lodges, shops, restaurants, slopes, and sledding hills. The gondola will bring you to the top of the mountain where you’ll find a traditional Korean pagoda and a lodge with a restaurant and snack shops. After a long day tackling the mountain’s twenty-plus slopes, slide off those ski boots and into a hot spring where you can sit back and watch the skiers fly by as you soak. Advertised as natural, this is definitely a man-made over-sized hot tub; nonetheless, it’s worth a visit. Curious where else you can hit up some of Korea’s hot springs? Try Suanbo Hot Springs and Sajo Ski Resort near Chungju, Chungcheongbuk-do. This small ski resort only has a few slopes, but it’s enough to get your fix while enjoying a day outside this winter. If you’re a beginner, Sajo is a great place to hop down bunny slopes. Suanbo resort, only a short walk from the ski area, allows access to their hot springs for a small fee (Muju’s hot spring is about W14,000, while Suanbo is about W6,000). Although Gangwon-do offers more than 15 ski resorts, these southern slopes are worth a visit, so bundle up and enjoy!

Through February 26th The Modern Korean Temple Bell Korean Buddhist temple bells were made in Japanese style under Japanese colonial rule, but recently there have been efforts to return to the original style of bell making. Jincheon Bell Museum. jincheon.go.kr 043-539-3847 Through March 18th Immortal Dream The pieces in this exhibition illustrate the way of life and patterns of thought of the Han Dynasty of China (206 BC - AD 220). Asia Museum, Daejeon. 10 am – 6 pm, Sun 1 – 6 pm. Closed Mon. asiamuseum.asia 042-863-0055

Performances February 3rd Lee Hee-ah in Concert: Hope Lee Hee-ah is a pianist with only four fingers who performs to bring hope to her audience. Bongseo Hall near Cheonan City Hall. 7:30 pm. W20,000 - W30,000. asiamunhwa.com 041-521-2011 February 9th Acoustic Cafe in Concert Japanese new age group Acoustic Cafe is coming to Korea. Cheongju Arts Center. 7:30 pm. W44,000 - W88,000. cjac.or.kr 043-200-4421 February 14th Daejeon Municipal Symphony Orchestra: Valentine Concert Daejeon Culture and Arts Center. 7:30 pm. djac.or.kr 042-610-2222 February 17th - 19th Nanta This kitchen percussion extravaganza is a stage show that everyone must see at least once. CMB Expo Art Hall in Daejeon. 17th at 8 pm, 18th at 3 & 7 pm, & 19th at 2 pm. W30,000 - W50,000. cmbart.com 070-8110-7485 February 22nd

Getting There

• Muju Take a bus from Seoul to Daejeon to Yeongdong, or from Daegu to Yeongdong. Shuttle offered from terminal to resort. Taxi from terminal to resort: W20,000. • Sajo Take bus to Chungju, then take a city bus to Suanbo. 15-minute Words by C h elsi e Koz era walk from the bus stop to resort.

Family & Community Through February 5th Chilgapsan Frozen Fountain Festival Go bobsledding or ice fishing when you’re not checking out the ice sculptures and 50 “frozen fountains.” Alps Village, Cheongyang-gun. alpsvill. com 041-942-0797

Education & Conference Through March 4th Kids Play Park 5-theme indoor playground including air bouncers, Pororo World, and a bubble show. Daegu Exhibition & Convention Center (EXCO). 10 am - 6 pm. Adults W10,000, children W14,000. excodaegu.co.kr 053-601-5233

CHUNGCHEONG PROVINCE Entertainment O-World Amusement Park Daejeon oworld.kr 042-580-4820 Kumdori Land Daejeon kumdori.co.kr 042-862-4000

Hotels/Accommodations New Korea Hotel Asan 041-542-8151 Onyang Hot Spring Hotel Asan 041-545-2141 Cheonan Central Hotel Cheonan 041-564-9100 Yuseong Hotel Daejeon 042-822-9591 The Sky Blue Bird Seosan 011-382-1862 Golden Wave Taean 041-675-2008

Medical Services Konyang International Health Care Center Daejeon kihcc.kyuh.co.kr 042-600-9978 Sun Hospital Daejeon 042-220-8000

Bars/Lounges/Pubs

St. Thomas Choir of Leipzig and Leipzig Gewandhaus Orchestra German conductor Georg Christoph Biller will lead the Leipzig Gewandhaus Orchestra and the St. Thomas Choir for this performance of Bach’s St. Matthew Passion at the Daejeon Culture & Arts Center. 7:30 pm. W20,000 - W120,000. djac.or.kr 042-826-2814

62 | 10 Magazine February 2012

February 25th Kim Kyung Ho Concert Korean rock singer Kim Kyung Ho, famous for his vocal range that spans four octaves, is having an encore performance at Cheongju Gymnasium. 4 & 7:30 pm. W77,000 - W99,000. ticket.interpark. com 043-279-4609

Rolling Stones Cheonan 041-562-9824 MJ Cheongju “MJ Bar” on Facebook. 043-273-8366 Road King Cheongju 010-8301-5936 Blue Moon Cheongwon 043-285-0399 Brickhouse Sports Bar & Grill Daejeon “The Daejeon Brickhouse” on Facebook, 010-9867-0921 J-Rock Daejeon 010-4564-7721 Santa Claus Daejeon “Santa Claus 2008” on Facebook, 042-825-5500 The Shisha House Daejeon “Welcome to the Shisha House” on Facebook. 042-825-4157 Sponge Daejeon 042-471-3373

JEOLLA CALENDAR Art Through February 12th Examinations of the Ancients The Jeonju National Museum is displaying exam papers and certificates of the Gwageo, the highest-level state examination used to recruit officials during the Goryeo and Joseon Dynasties. 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Monday. Free. jeonju.museum.go.kr 063-223-5651 Through February 19th The Ink of South Jeolla: 100 Years of Korean Painting A thorough introduction to the paintings of South Jeolla. Jeonju National Museum. 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Monday. Free. jeonju.museum.go.kr 063-223-5651 Through February 26th

National Geographic: Life and Nature Award-winning magazine National Geographic has organized an exhibition at the Gwangju Culture and Art Center. 10 am - 7 pm. W6,000 - W10,000. gjart.net 062-513-7992

Performances Ongoing Gugak Saturday Performance The South Jeolla Provincial Gugak Troupe has held more than 1,300 Korean classical music performances since 1986. Performances every Saturday, 5 pm, at Mokpo Citizen’s Culture and Athletic Center. W5,000. art.mokpo.go.kr 061-270-8375

February 26th Philharmonic Cellists Ensemble The program is composed of Bach’s Sonata and Ave Maria, Ragtime, Dvorak’s Silent Woods, and more. Sori Arts Center in Jeonju. sori21.co.kr 063-270-8000

Family & Community Through February 5th “Surisuri Misuri” Moving Art Exhibition This 3D modern art exhibition is great for both children and adults. Gwangju Museum of Art. 9 am – 6 pm. Adults W500, teens W300, children W200. artmuse.gwangju.go.kr 062-510-0149 Through February 19th Air Kids Park This is a playground where children can jump, roll, and swim. There are five sections: giant slides, bounce zone, bounce ball play, indoor water boats, and bounce playground. Kim Daejung Convention Center in Gwangju. 10 am - 6 pm. Adults W10,000, kids W12,000. kdjcenter.or.kr 062-611-2000 Through February 25th Jiri Mountains Namwon Baraebong Snow Festival Tube sledding, ice wall climbing, ice sculpture exhibition, snow fight, and traditional games. Lots of food to eat. Jiri Mountain Herb Valley in Namwon. gojb.net 063-620-6114

Education & Conferences Ongoing GIC Talks English lectures on a wide range of subjects such as culture, history, politics, and art. Gwangju International Center. Sat 3 – 4:30 pm. Closed holidays. gic.or.kr 062-226-2733

Sport & Fitness Dozens of volleyball and basketball games are scheduled for this month. Volleyball games are listed on the website at kovo.co.kr (mostly Korean, though English schedules are also listed). Men’s basketball games are listed on kbl.or.kr (Korean only) and women’s games at wkbl.or.kr (also Korean only). Ongoing Hwasan Ice Rink Get out on the ice! Be sure to bring your own gloves. Wansangu, Jeonju. 9 am - 6 pm. Entrance fee W3,000. Skate rental W2,000. jjss.or.kr 063-239-2578 February 26th 2012 MBC Sumjin River Flower Road Marathon 5k, 10k, half, and full marathon to depart at 9 am from the Sumjin River in Jun-nam Gwangyang. Must be 18 years older as of Feb 26th to apply for half & full courses. Register by Feb 20th. W10,000 - W35,000. ysmbcrun.com 02-338-0344

JEOLLA PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance Gwangju International Center gic.or.kr 062-226-2733 Gwangju Blog gwangjublog.com Inside Jeonju insidejeonju.com The Jeonju Hub thejeonjuhub.com

Restaurants/Supermarkets First Nepal Restaurant Gwangju firstnepal.com 062-225-8771 Tequilaz Gwangju’s first Mexican cantina serves up your south-of-the-border favorites with magical margaritas and, of course, killer tequilas. tequilaz.com Underground Grocers Gwangju This foreigner-run food shop has those hardto-find cheeses, taco shells and other delicacies you crave. 062-232-2626

Live Music Venues Bars/Lounges/Pubs Art & Travel Cafe Jeonju Open mic nights every Wednesday from 9 pm. Facebook group, 011-9437-0208 Deepin Jeonju Popular expat bar with Texas Holdem on Sundays. 019-9646-1028 Led Zeppelin Art Space Jeonju Hosts underground bands both expat and Korean. cafe.daum.net/k250073 018-607-6321 Radio Star Jeonju Under the 7-11 in Junghwasan-dong. 011-9444-9609 Speakeasy Gwangju speakeasygwangju.com 010-4713-3825 San Antonio Latin Bistro Suncheon Suncheon surprises with this Latinthemed restaurant and bar. Facebook group, pyroz@hotmail.com 061-724-2234

Take the Daedunsan Challenge While some escape Korean winters with a bubbling jjigae (찌개) and toasty ondol (온돌) heating, adventurers can take on the challenge of Daedun Mountain in North Jeolla. Past the usual overpriced restaurants comes a loose-footed hike on the left slope. Watch your footing. Aim for the gazebo, from which you can check out the oddly shaped giant rock pillars or just take a break. Continue upwards until you get to the cable car station. Hop onto the rooftop and take in the view of countless slopes in the distance. The less-abled can take the aforementioned cable car to this point, saving at least 45 minutes. But don’t get too excited: this is only halfway. A little further on and the famous red suspension bridge appears. Fear not, it’s as solid as they get, but don’t look down at the 80m drop if you’re afraid of heights. Trek up some mini-ladders to an even more intimidating challenge: the red stairway. This is no joke. The handrail comes up only waist-high on an incline over 55 degrees steep. Vertigo? Probably. Scary enough to make you crawl up on your hands and feet? Absolutely. Daredevils will keep climbing 350m more to the peak, but if the rocky ledges of the path are iced over, you will be grasping at the metal guardrails for dear life. Hold on - it will be worth it to reach the pillar of victory at 878m. If it’s a clear day, admire the gorgeous view of the mountain range and let out a yodel or two. Finish the afternoon by soaking your aches away at the inexpensive sauna at Daedunsan Tourist Hotel at the mountain base. Ti p

1. Look into proper attire – endless layers are not always a good thing. 2. Trails get icy. Prepare proper footwear or attach shoe spikes. Getting There

Jeonju Intercity Bus Terminal: recommended bus times are 6:40, 9:00, 9:40 am. W7,500. Daejeon Seobu Terminal: 6 buses daily, at intervals from 7:45 am. Words and photos by Baru n Sarkar

10 Magazine February 2012 | 63

JEOLLA

February 11th ZHdK Strings in Concert Rudolf Koelman and the Zurich University Strings are pairing up to play classic European music. Sori Arts Center in Jeonju. 5 pm. W20,000. sori21.co.kr 063-270-8000

Through February 26th Gwangju Racing Park Family fun at Korea’s biggest indoor playground: gocarts, hiking, cycling, bounce slide, toddlers play zone, and much more. Kim Daejung Convention Center, Gwangju. Adults W10,000, children W15,000. racing-park.co.kr 02-1688-7638

GYEONGSANG discovery

A Taste of Texas Street Explore the international cuisine on offer in Busan’s most diverse ethnic enclave. Words and shots by B ryce We ib le y

exas Street may strike you as a strange name for the small lane opposite Busan Station filled with Filipino, Russian, and Uzbek joints. The name originated from the American soldiers who once frequented this notorious district. Since the U.S. military closed its Busan facilities, the GIs have largely been replaced by Russian sailors. By night, the booze and bargirls remain, but it’s not all debauchery. Texas Street also serves as a commercial district for local residents from the Philippines, Russia, and Uzbekistan, who have established a number of authentic eateries. And in the land of kimchi, the opportunity to sample such foreign flavors is too rare to pass up! Here’s a look at a few of Texas Street’s best ethnic restaurants. S amarkand A unique treat in the local restaurant scene is Samarkand, a bright Uzbek family restaurant. Here, the great range of delicious homestyle Uzbek and Russian dishes (W5,000 - W20,000) are intended for sharing, so bringing a group is recommended. While English is hit-or-miss on the menu, there’s a photo of each dish accompanied by Cyrillic and Hangul captions. Samarkand offers popular Uzbek dishes such as shurpa (lamb stew), samsa (meat-stuffed pastry), manty (dumplings), and hefty grilled meat skewers, as well as typical Russian fare such as borscht (beet and cabbage stew), cabbage rolls, and stuffed peppers. Uzbek food is certainly hearty, but it’s not all meat and starch. A full menu page is dedicated to a wide range of fresh salads. And to wash it all down, there’s Russian Ice vodka for W20,000 a bottle! 051-466-4734

Cabbage Roll and Stuffed Pepper

K amustahan

Lumpia

The 24-hour Filipino-run Kamustahan restaurant has a small interior, but the scrumptious homemade Filipino cuisine keeps the customers rolling in. The menu includes Filipino favorites such as adobong manok (chicken adobo), lumpia (Philippines-style fried spring rolls), and sinigang (sour, tamarind-based stew), all for around W10,000. There aren’t any English descriptions of the dishes, but the English-speaking staff gladly help interpret the menu. Of course, it wouldn’t be a Filipino joint without San Miguel Beer, though Kamustahan also stocks the same brewery’s extra-strong version, Red Horse, a rare find in Korea. 051-466-3364

GYEONGSANG

A mby ’s

Cabbage Rolls

Probably the most well-known of the area’s eateries, Amby’s restaurant and pub exemplifies the cultural mishmash that is Texas Street. Amby’s serves up a range of Filipino, Russian, Western, and Korean food from a mongrel menu that seems to change font and language throughout. Despite the fact that the Filipino waitress had no idea what borscht and cabbage rolls were – and the fact that the cook was Korean – the food was actually quite tasty. Dishes start at W5,000. Wi-fi and hilarious conversation with drunk Russian sailors are free of charge. 051-467-6206

V iking C lub Though most of the nightlife in the area tends towards the seedier side, the exception is the Viking Club. It does actually have a food menu, but it’s definitely more of a drinking and dancing kind of place. It’s worth a mention, however, for the house band – featuring a trio of Russian blondes – who perform the latest pop songs from their motherland on weekend nights. 64 | 10 Magazine February 2012

G e t t i n g T h e r e Take the subway (line 1) to Busan Station, exit 7. Turn left at the Family Mart and Texas Street will be the first right. For Samarkand, keep walking eastwards past Baskin Robbins, cross a road and continue another 50 meters past KB Bank. It’s on the second floor.

Although Texas Street remains the commonly used term for the area (at least among expats), don’t expect to find it on a map. The city government has officially rebranded the district as the innocuous-sounding Choryang Foreign Shopping Street.

10 Ti p

House Band at Viking Club

GYEONGSANG calendar Art Ongoing

Through March 18th 2011 ASEAN-Korea Contemporary Media Art Exhibition: CROSS+SCAPE Twenty-seven photographers portray the unique cultural characteristics of the ten ASEAN countries. Goeun Museum, Main Building, Busan. Tue - Sun, 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. Free. goeunmuseum.org 051-744-3933 The Centenary of Chung In-sung’s Birth Chung was one of Busan’s first-generation photographers. Historic pictures show how Busanites used to live. Goeun Museum, New Building, Busan. Tue - Sun, 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. Free. goeunmuseum.org 051-746-0055

Geert Jan Jansen and Ellen Van Baren Art Exhibition Dutch artist Geert Jan Jansen, influenced by Picasso, Warhol, and Appel, and his wife, Ellen Van Baren, noted for her soft pencil drawings of Oriental women, birds, and flowers, have artwork on monthly rotation at the Netherland Art Gallery in Busan. 12 - 7 pm. Closed Mon. Free. english.busan.go.kr 051-741-3622 Through February 5th Karsh: The Master of Portrait Photography Karsh’s second exhibition in Korea presents photographs of significant 20th century figures including Andy Warhol, Nelson Mandela, Marc Chagall, and Elizabeth Taylor. 315 Art Center, Changwon. 10 am - 7 pm. 315art.net 055-286-0315 Make Jade out of Clay: Longquan Celadon Elegant Chinese celadon ceramics, often referred to as “jade from clay,” on display at the Busan Museum. 9 am - 8 pm. Closed Mon. Free. english.busan.go.kr 051-610-7142 Through February 12th The Artwork of Shin Jang-sik and Son Ah-yoo Works of art by Shin Jang-sik and Son Ah-yoo have been donated by Ha Jeong-ung. City Museum of Busan. 10 am - 8 pm. Closed Mon. Free. busanmoma.org 051-740-4245

The Changing Face of Busan See various landscapes of Busan through art. Busan Museum of Art. 10 am - 8 pm. Closed Mon. Free. busanmoma.org 051-740-4252 Through February 20th Special Exhibition: Experience the History of Abstract Art This exhibition shows a timeline of 60 pieces from the beginnings of abstract to contemporary art. Geoje Art Center. 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Tue. Free. geojeart.or.kr 055-680-1000 Through February 26th Bae Bien-u Exhibit This exhibition highlights internationally renowned photographer Bae Bien-u’s appreciation of Korea’s beautiful landscapes, including pine trees, oceans, and islands. Artsonje Center, Gyeongju. 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. W5,000. artsonje.org/gye 054-745-7075 Trick Art in Busan Season 2 of Trick Art has arrived. Trick Art is a new genre that changes 2D classical paintings to a playful 3D perspective. BEXCO Convention Center. 10 am – 7 pm. W12,000, trickartkorea.com 051-740-4130

Theater & Dance Ongoing Korean Music and Dance in Busan Performances every Saturday at the National Gugak Center in Busan. 4 pm. W8,000. busan.gugak.go.kr 051-811-0040 Miso II: Shilla, The Land of Gods This non-verbal performance illustrates the thousand-year history of Shilla with age-old Korean dance and music. Three acts touch upon the divine founding of Shilla, the love story of Seondeok and Yongchun, and the Silla Road. Expo Cultural Center of the Gyeongju World Culture Expo. 7 pm. Closed Mon. W20,000 – W50,000. sillamiso.chongdong.com 054-740-3800 Through February 12th Miss Saigon: The Musical After it first premiered in London in the 1980s, Miss Saigon rapidly became one of the most beloved musicals in the world. Performed in Korean. Ulsan Culture Art Center. Closed Mon. Tue - Fri 7:30 pm, Sat 3 & 7:30 pm, Sun 2 & 6:30 pm. W50,000 W120,000. ucac.or.kr 1599-1980

Family & Community Ongoing ClayArch Exhibition See clay art and architecture and make your own at the ClayArch Gimhae Museum. Closed Mon. 10 am - 6 pm. Exhibit: Adult W2,000, children W500. Clay Academy: W5,000 - W10,000. m.clayarch.org 055-340-7060 Through February 19th Robot World See and feel robots from the Edo era to the contemporary era. Yoonseul Art Gallery, Gimhae Museum. 10 am - 6 pm. W12,000. renewal2011.gasc.or.kr 055-320-1261 Through February 26th Rainbow Think Season 6 Learn about art through storytelling. Cyan Museum of Art in Yeongcheon-si. 10:30 am, 1 pm, 3 pm. See website for detailed schedule. Reservations recommended. W18,000. cyanmuseum.org 054-338-9391 Through March 4th Happy Winter Festival: Season 3 Not just for children but parents, too! The expo has enormous flower and rainbow air bouncers, an amusement park for toddlers, and fun slides. Changwon Convention Center. 10 am - 7 pm. Adults W12,000, children W14,000. hfestival.co.kr 1588-4648 Garuya, Garuya: Flour Fun Play, draw, and bake with flour. Various programs are available for children and parents.

Education & Conferences Through February 26th Children’s Art Museum: Shh! Listen Up! Stimulate your creative mind with the 15 pieces of installation art at this exhibition. Busan Museum of Art. 10 am – 6 pm. Adults W700, students W300. art.busan.go.kr 051-740-4241 February 2nd – 5th 2012 Kids Education Fair This fair exhibits new English storybooks, exercise books, toys, exercise tool kits, clothes, and shoes for kids. BEXCO Convention Center. 10 am – 6 pm. W5,000. kidsedufair.co.kr 051-862-8810

Sports & Fitness Dozens of volleyball and basketball games are scheduled for this month. Volleyball games are listed on the website kovo.co.kr (mostly Korean, though some events are listed in English). Men’s basketball games are listed on kbl.or.kr (Korean only) and women’s games on wkbl.or.kr (also Korean only).

Ongoing Pohang Ice Rink Pohang’s exclusive ice rink complete with restaurants and a snack bar. 10 am - 6:30 pm. Admission: W4,500. Skate rental: W3,500. pohangicerink.com 054-242-0091 Susung Ice Rink Open throughout the year. Be sure to bring gloves. Snack bar available. Suseong-gu, Daegu. Mon - Fri 10 am - 5 pm, Sat & Sun 10 am - 7 pm. Admission: W5,000. Skate rental: W3,000. susungicerink.com 053-765-1300 February 15th Green Growth Kumho River Marathon 5k, 10k, half, 30k, and full marathon to depart from Daegu Dongchon under the pedestrian overpass at 9 am. W10,000 - W20,000. Register by February 13th. mapho.co.kr 010-526-9120

Travel Through February 29th Busan Grand Sale 2012 Enjoy up to 70% off while shopping and view cultural performances as well. The sale applies to foreigners (foreign passport holders) only. Grand Sale discounts can be enjoyed at various major tourist attractions in Busan, including Haeundae, Nampo-dong, Gwangalli, and Seomyeon. koreagrandsale.or.kr 051-888-8227

Gyeongsang Foreigner Assistance Busan Foundation for Int’l Activities bfia.or.kr 051-668-7900 Geoje Foreign Resident Association gfra.net 055-687-9332 Ulsan Global Center 052-229-2810 Ulsan Online ulsanonline.com

Education Yoga Classes Each 1st and 3rd Sunday from 12:30 – 1:30 pm. Buy the Book Cafe in Daegu. megan.deutsch@gmail. com 010-7794-1218

Hotels/Accommodations 4 – 5 Star Hotels Busan Lotte Hotel 051-810-1000 Novotel Ambassador 051-743-1234 Seacloud 051-933-1000 Daegu Novotel Ambassador 053-664-1101 Hostels Busan Arpina 051-740-3228 Zen Backpackers 010-8722-1530

Restaurants Busan Ganga Indian Opposite Haeundae Beach. ganga.co.kr 051-740-6670 Gecko’s Western Perched on lovely Haeundae Beach at the Pale de CZ, you can get all of that authentic Western food you’re used to back home, and you’ll find bartenders who know how to mix a real margarita. 051-747-3069 Il Sole Italian Quality food with a great view of Haeundae Beach. 051-747-4253 Samarkand Russian Uzbeki restaurant serving kebabs, soups and stews. Busan Station. 051-581-4050 Daegu Berkeley Italian 053-421-8577 Buy the Book Western This bookstore and café is your source for free yoga, theater, and parties. Downtown Daegu. Open weekends. buythebookcafe@yahoo.com

Café Francesco Italian Near Rodeo Street. 053-252-9625 Dijon French Up-market French and Mediterranean cuisine. 053-422-2426 Hami Mami’s American One of Daegu’s best brunches. 50m from the US base. 8 am – 10 pm. 053-475-5242

Live Music Venues Busan Club Interplay cafe.daum.net/ interplaycafe 051-517-4773 Daegu Club Heavy cafe.daum.net/clubheavy96 010-2338-1340 Gyeongju Club Metal Boys cafe.daum.net/ metalboys 011-9599-8370

Clubs Daegu Club That Located on the rodeo just down from the Samdok fire station. clubthat.co.kr 053-427-7171 Old Skool Hip hop bar great for dancing, socializing or drinking. “Old SkooL: Daegu Muzik Club Bar” on Facebook. Busan Elune Lots of international acts. Paradise Hotel 010-5525-4055 Maktum Club dancing, events, launching shows, sports parties. 9 pm – 6 am. maktum.co.kr, 051-742-0770 NEO Starface “Latin Club” Free salsa classes weekdays from 8 pm. Saturdays boast a live band and/or DJs. Haeundae. 051-746-1746 Vinyl Underground Delivers fresh breaks, house, funk, electro, tech house, hip hop. B2 Han La Building. 9 pm - 6 am. 051-628-0223

Medical Services Centum Eco Clinic Busan Reliable medical care from a doctor specializing in ENT, internal medicine and pediatrics. Located in the shopping center of the Centum Park Apartments in Haeundaegu, Busan. 051-731-1522

Advertise in our Directory!

marketing@10mag.com or 02-3447-1610

10 Magazine February 2012 | 65

GYEONGSANG

Through February 19th “Thinking About the Abode” Exhibition Using human-centered architecture and ceramics, this exhibition has three sections to inspire thoughts of the ideal home: building a house, envisioning life, and dreaming of a garden. Clayarch Gimhae Museum. 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. clayarch.org 055-340-7000

Through March 31st Memory of Place Seven Korean artists express their concepts of place in the form of art. Cyan Art Museum in Yeongcheon-si. Mon - Fri 10:30 am - 7 pm. Sat & Sun 10:30 am – 6:30 pm. cyanmuseum.org 054-338-9391

Daegu Cultural Center for Students. Mon - Fri 1:30 pm - 4 pm. Sat 10:10 am - 4:30 pm. Sun 10:10 am - 4 pm. W18,000 dccs.go.kr 02-738-8289

JEJU CALENDAR Art Through February 19th Artist’s Books: Book Talk Read great stories while also enjoying creatively designed books. Jeju Museum of Art. 9 am – 6 pm. jmoa.jeju.go.kr 061-710-4300 Through February 26th Female Artists Exhibition Learn more about female artists’ view of the world. Jeju Museum of Art. 9 am – 6 pm. jmoa.jeju.go.kr 061-710-4300

Performances Ongoing Changing Faces Performance In this famous Chinese performance, actors change their masks without touching them. Samgukji Land, Jocheon-eup, Jeju-si. 9:40, 10:50 am, 2:40 pm. Adults W12,000, teens W10,000, children W8,000. jeju.to 064-712-9961

discov ery

Roost Place

A Place for Fine Dining When it comes to Western food on Jeju Island, it can be hard to find an establishment that is satisfying in quality, quantity and scenery. But at Roost Place, located in Shin-Jeju, you strike gold in each category. From the name, many people think Roost Place is a chicken joint. Wrong! Roost Place has a wide selection of foods including pizzas, fried rice platters, pastas, and some of the most tender and delicious steaks on the island. There are also appetizers, desserts, snacks, and a brunch menu. The extensive menu includes cream, carbonara, and tomato-based pastas. The Pane (a personal favorite) is even served in a bread bowl – a wonderful taste of home! Among the steak selections are a ribeye, black pepper tenderloin, and a garlic snow steak. In addition, Roost Place has a vast selection of white and red wines. However, it’s not just the menu options that will make your mouth water. With each meal, Roost Place goes above and beyond what you expect. Dinner begins with a salad of mixed greens, tomatoes and mozzarella cheese. The always beautiful display changes with the chef’s mood. Along with salad, there is a cheese plate, sushi, or other exciting starter, and then coffee or ice cream after dinner – all included in the meal’s price. If the food alone doesn’t have you interested, the interior design is another reason to make a trip to Roost Place. As soon as you open the door, your eye will fall on the indoor koi pond stocked with gorgeous fish. The natural wood of the tables and chairs, the live greenery and flowing water displays give Roost Place a very warm yet romantic atmosphere, perfect for dinner with friends or a date night with that special someone. Getting There

Turn north at Nohyeong Rotary in Shin-Jeju and then left at the first traffic light. Roost Place is located at the end of the street on the left. 2F 2586-4 Nohyeong-dong, Jeju-si. 064-745-9004

Words and shots by M ary R ager- Su mm ers 66 | 10 Magazine February 2012

Circus World Happy Town. Andeokmyeon, Seogwipo-si. Reservations required. jejuartcenter.com 064-712-9961 Elephant Show You don’t have to go to Southeast Asia to see an elephant show. Andeok-myeon, Seogwipo-si. 10:30 am, 2:30, 4:30 pm. Adults W15,000, teens W12,000, children W9,000. jeju.to 064-792-1233 Fanta-stick: The Musical This comic musical draws upon gugak (traditional Korean music), and throws in some contemporary touches. Joongmoon FantaStick Theatre. 8 pm. W40,000 - W50,000. ticket.interpark.com 064-739-7781

and Aria Aramuse Hall. Time TBA. aramusehall.com 064-754-4695

Family & Community Ongoing Making Citrus Cookies and Muffins. Tourists can make their own cookies and muffins at the Seogwipo Citrus Museum. 10 - 10:30 am, 2 - 3:30 pm. W3,000. citrusmuseum.com 064-767-3010 February 2nd - 4th Jeongwol Daeboreum Fire Festival Jeongwol Daeboreum is the day of the first full moon according to the lunar year. There will be many fun activities such as tug-of-war, laser show, and ganggangsullae (traditional Korean dance). buriburi.go.kr 064-728-3021

Sport & Fitness February 26th Jeju Marathon with Hwang Young-jo 5k, 10k, and half marathon at Hanlim Stadium, Jeju City at 9:30 am. W10,000 - W30,000. Register by February 8th. run1080.com 042-638-1080

JEJU ISLAND Theme Park

Jump In its second decade, this popular martial arts comic performance shows no signs of slowing. Halla Art Hall at Cheju Halla College. Tue - Fri 8 pm; Sat 4 & 8 pm; Sun, holidays 8 pm. Closed Mon. W40,000 - W50,000. hijump.co.kr 064-749-0550 Mongolian Horseback Show Try not to dwell on those bad memories of riding horses at summer camp and stay focused on the amazing tricks of these horseback performers. Jorangmal Town in Seogwipo-si. 9:50, 11 am, 3 pm. Adults W12,000, teens W8,000, children W8,000. jejushow.co.kr 064-712-9961

Nanta Started a decade ago, this nonverbal performance is a feast for the ears that turns ordinary kitchen pots and pans into a rhythm section. Jeju Media Center in Jeju City (064-727-7800). 90 min. Sun 8 pm, Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 8 pm. W40,000 - W50,000. nanta.i-pmc.co.kr 064-723-8878 Seolmundae: Circus Musical Dramatic circus musical Seolmundae is based on old Jeju legends. Jeju Artrium. 5 & 7:30 pm. W16,000. jejuartcenter.com 1577-9575 February 2nd Song Hwa-eun Violin Recital Aramuse Hall. 7:30 pm. aramusehall.com 064-754-4695 February 7th Jeju Provincial Choir: Night of Song

Kimnyoung Maze Park The challenge is the thrill of the search and the reward is the taste of success in ringing the bell! San 16, Kimnyoung-ri, Gujwa-eup, Jejusi, Jeju-do. jejumaze.com 064-782-9266

Classes Woodcarving and Engraving Workshop Jeju Museum of Art. Weekdays 10 – 11:30 am, 2 – 3:30 pm; weekends 10 – 11:30 am, 2 – 4 pm.

Hotels/Accommodations Hotel Lotte Jeju 5-Star 064-731-1000 Jeju Hiking Inn Hostel hikinginn.com 064-763-2380

Entertainment Alice in Wonderland Haunted House 064-794-4700 Halla Arboretum Jeju City. Free. sumokwon.jeju.go.kr 064-710-7575 Jeju Sea World jejuseaworld.co.kr 064-784-2333

NETWORKING CALENDAR E dited by J i s u n M oo n and dav i d carru t h

Pictures taken by Luigina Webb at this past month’s ANZA Global Café, which was held on January 17th at the Grand Hyatt Hotel in Seoul.

Tuesday, January 31st AMCHAM General Membership Meeting Featuring guest speaker H.E. Sukwoo Hong, Minister of Knowledge Economy. Grand Hyatt Hotel. 11:30 am - 1:30 pm. Members W62,000, non-members W82,000. RSVP by noon, January 30th to amchamrsvp@ amchamkorea.org, amchamkorea.org BASS Annual General Meeting Have a glass of bubbly or two as you thank BASS’s hardworking 2011 committee and welcome in the 2012 committee. Any new ideas or suggestions are welcome. Hallasan Room at the Seoul Club. 10 am - 12 pm. Members W10,000, non-members W14,000. britishseoul.com

Monday, February 6th SIWA Newcomer’s Meeting A newcomer’s meeting is an opportunity for newcomers to get together in a small group along with some “long-time” Seoul residents and share experiences, find answers to questions, get good tips about their new life in Seoul and meet new people. Send an email to

Thursday, February 9th FKCCI Café du Commerce Enjoy an informal French atmosphere at the monthly Café du Commerce networking event at the Novotel Ambassador Gangnam. 6:30 - 8:45 pm. W26,000. fkcci.com Friday, February 10th AWC Monthly Meeting 11:30 am. Check the website for more information. awckorea-seoul.org Friday, February 10th - Sunday, February 12th 30th Yongpyong International Ski Festival All expats and their families are welcome to participate in a fun weekend full of skiing. Even better, there’s a 30% discount on accommodations, ski rental, and lift tickets at Yongpyong Resort during the festival. Fill out the form available online if you want to participate in the ski or snowboarding race. yongpyong.co.kr/eng Tuesday, February 14th Deutscher Club Stammtisch A romantic location will be announced soon. 7:30 pm. Please RSVP to Beatrice Hunt at vizepraesidentin@deutscherclubseoul.de. deutscherclubseoul.de Tuesday, February 21st ANZA Monthly Global Cafe The Global Cafe is held at 10 am on the 3rd Tuesday of each month at the Grand Hyatt. Members

W10,000, non-members W15,000. RSVP at anza.com.

Friday, February 24th KGCCI Green Cabbage Dinner 2012 Baerlin Deutsches Wirtshaus. 7 - 10 pm. Members only. korea.ahk.de Tuesday, February 28th BASS Monthly Meeting Hallasan Room at Seoul Club. 10 am - 12 pm. Members W10,000, non-members W14,000. Sign-up at britishseoul.com to confirm your attendance. Wednesday, February 29th SIWA Working Women Network This is a rare chance for working women to mingle together. Held the final Wednesday of each month. Venue TBA. 7 - 9:30 pm. There is W10,000 participation fee for non-members. RSVP to workingwomensnetwork@siwapage.com by the 28th. siwapage.com AMCHAM American Chamber of Commerce ANZA Australian & New Zealand Association of South Korea AWC American Women’s Club BASS British Association of Seoul FKCCI French Chamber of Commerce and Industry in Korea KGCCI Korean-German Chamber of Commerce and Industry SIWA Seoul Int’l Women’s Association

To list your event, contact David Carruth at calendar@10mag.com or 02-3447-1610 10 Magazine February 2012 | 67

NETWORKING CALENDAR

Friday, February 3rd German Carnival Ball Join the carnival ball in Seoul to enjoy live music and show off your fancy costume. Everyone is welcome. Millennium Seoul Hilton Grand Ballroom. 7:11 pm (yes, 7:11 pm!). Under 18 years old W50,000, Adults W90,000 buffet dinner and drinks included. For reservations and further information visit 1-skv.kr Tickets also available at the German Embassy.

newcomers@siwapage.com to register your attendance. siwapage.com

Adapt or Die Words by Sama n t h a Di x- H i ll , I llustration by Leroy K uci a

hange is not a bad thing. I like change. My gypsy soul needs new surroundings at least every two years and if that’s not possible I simply re-arrange the furniture in my home. These reorganizations are usually timed to coincide with one too many of my husband’s late night “business dinners” and Noraebang squeak-a-longs because I’ve determined that there is nothing more satisfying than the resounding thunk of his knee smashing into a newly placed piece of furniture. The resulting cursing and limping provides me with a sense of sadistic satisfaction and if you think I’m being overly mean then you’ve never had to share a bed and a night with someone reeking of garlic and soju. But we’re not here to discuss my husband’s pain and suffering; we’re talking about change, and if you’re a well-travelled expat you’ll know that change is something you have to deal with constantly. We’re always having to make new friends, find new hair-dressers, new dentists, new schools, new jobs (if you feel so inclined), the dreaded gynecologists (females only, please) and a reliable GP. And I’m quite happy, even enthusiastic, to adapt to all these changes. Friends are difficult to find and age has made me selective. So far I have four girlfriends and one rather obnoxious soccer coach whom I feel privileged to know. Hairdressers are slightly more complicated especially when you have Western hair in an Asian country but so far things are looking good. I feel disinclined to discuss those in the medical profession as I’m still somewhat scarred by my first experience with a German gynecologist who, I’m sure, was suffering from advanced Alzheimer’s. Month after month during my pregnancy he would never remember who I was until halfway through the examination. His bald head would pop up from between my knees and he would joyously

exclaim, “Ah, you are zee girl from Sud Africa, ja?” It was all rather disturbing. Generally, you get the idea; I’m not afraid of change. I embrace it and get on with the program. However, there is one type of change that I’m finding harder and harder to stomach and that is the re-organization of food in my grocery store. At least once a month some bright spark decides that it would be a good idea to re-arrange all the products. I wouldn’t mind if we were just talking shelf space as even I’m smart enough to understand the marketing benefits of optimal shelf placement. I’m talking whole aisles of re-arranged goods. I’m not one to serenely push my trolley up and down each aisle, perusing all the different brands, comparing prices and finding something new to try out. Food doesn’t interest me. I want to be in and out in the quickest possible time with a sufficient variety of nutrients to sustain my family for a week. Usually it takes fifteen minutes. But if you were to observe me on a day when shelves have been re-arranged you would witness a rather large Western woman having a very unsubtle “WTF!” moment in the middle of the store. This involves elaborate throwing of my arms into the air, a couple of pulls on my hair and a worrying moment when I feel the uncontrollable urge to rugby tackle the nearest staff member, throw them to the ground and pummel an explanation out of them. I’m beginning to realize that there are many things about Korea that I will never understand. While most of you will leave here having never fully understood the principle of Confucianism and other important cultural mysteries I will leave here wondering two things: why Korean drivers won’t let me in when I indicate so politely that I would like to change lanes, and why grocery stores keep hiding tinned tomatoes and olive oil from me.

촌

해방 이태원•경리단• •Itaewon •Gyeongridan •Haebangchon

Discover Why Itaewon Rocks! What are the new restaurants? What happy hours are tonight? Is there a quiz night tonight? Where can I get brunch? Brazilian? Italian? American? Moroccan? Pick your cuisine. Pick up your FREE copy today at the Itaewon Subway Station Tourism Information Office or from your hotel concierge. 68 | 10 Magazine February 2012

November 2011

Rocky Mountain Tavern’s 6th Annual Battle of the Bands Plus: Thanksgiving Dinner Where’s Wing Night?

Published by: