10 Magazine March 2012 by 10 Media

Art • Theater • Concerts • Film • Community • Fitness • Dine & Drink • Nightlife • TRAVEL

Korea awaits! • march 2012 VOL. 4 NO. 6

24 Hours in Seoul Reader's Picks for the 10 Best Ways to Spend a Day in Seoul

외국인의 한국생활 노하우

Plus:

Hundreds of events in our Korea-wide calendar!

How the Rich Got Around in Joseon Korea Getting Into Ultimate Frisbee How Dangerous Are Puffer Fish? South by Southwest: Hongdo and Heuksando Printed using 100% soy ink.

What’s hot in Korea? Join Charles, Dani and Paul for the 10 Magazine Podcast • Hot issues in Korea • Upcoming can’t miss events • Cool places to visit • Hot foodie finds • Korean culture tips • Great guests • Anything else you ask them to talk about - podcast@10mag.com New 10 Magazine Podcasts on the 1st and 15th of every month!

Photography by John Stoops

10mag.com/podcast

Just ask the Waegooks.

March 2012 vol. 4 No. 6 Nationwide Calendar

4 From the Editor / Shot of Korean

38 Movies Dancing Queen, Happy Feet Two, Journey 2

6 Contributors 8 Letters / Blog of the Month / Korea by the Numbers

39 TV Star Junior Show on SBS 40 Music Brian Joo, High Places, Hwanangom, Books Volumes about Vampires

9 Reader’s 10 10 10 Questions Jason Strother 12 History Traveling in Style

41 Tech Ultrabooks

14 Taste of Korea Bogeo: Puffer Fish

Regional Calendar 37 Seoul Editor’s Pick Lisa Ono

15 In the Kitchen Frank Terzoli at Suji’s

42 Seoul Food Review Le Pavillon

16 Sports & Fitness Ultimate Frisbee

44 Seoul Art Picks The City of Art: New York

18 Korean Destination Hongdo and Heuksando

51 Seoul Editor’s Pick St. Patrick’s Day Festival

20 Korean Destination Harmony Cruise

54 Seoul Discovery Stand Up Seoul 62 Chungcheong Discovery Anmyeon-do, Kkotji Beach Gyeongbokgung, Seoul, shot by Curtis File

22 Asian Destination East Timor 30 Hotel & Resort News 32 Expat News 34 Gastronomic News 68 A Happy Ending

the 10 best Things to Do with 24 Hours in Seoul 26

63 Jeolla Discovery Jeonju’s Nightlife Picks 64 Gyeongsang Discovery Busan Boat Tours

Your mission, if you should choose to accept it, is to spend 24 hours in Seoul locating the hottest spots for food, festivities and fun and making the most of your day in the Korean capital. Turn to p. 26 for the 10 Magazine tutorial.

For information about performances by Bobby McFerrin and Duran Duran, see the Seoul Calendar on page 48.

The Struggle

o a while ago I had a meeting with an organization that said they would like to pay us to publish an article about them. I said we were perfectly happy publishing this article, but we would inevitably have to put “Advertisement” at the top to prevent confusion as to whether the article was our own editorial team’s content or paid content. They were hoping to avoid that. I explained that the reason people read and loved 10 was that they trusted us and our content, that people could tell when content was just paid for and that it alienated readers. They thanked me and we shook hands and I left. I didn’t hear back from them. I did, however, see a full-page article about this same organization in another English publication in Korea the same month it would have run in our magazine. In the words of CC Music Factory, it was one of those “Things That Make You Go Hmmmm.” I sat around with another friend from Hong Kong for breakfast not long afterward. I explained to him my difficulty with the fact that people often want to pay for articles rather than ads, and how we avoid the practice at 10. He looked at me stunned. “Dude, why don’t you just put an article in there about them and then have them pay for an ad on another page? Nobody cares.” I looked at him equally stunned. Is it true that no one really cares anymore? Last year I discovered that in my home country the major magazines have a separation between editorial and advertising that many refer to as “the separation of church and state.” It’s what gives magazines the most important asset they have - credibility. Assisting editors in their efforts to keep the advertising arm from putting on the squeeze is an organization called the American Society of Magazine Editors (ASME). To do this, they issue the ASME Guidelines, which are rather detailed but come down to 4 basic principles which they outline in the preamble: • Every reader is entitled to fair and accurate news and information. • The value of magazines to advertisers depends on reader trust. • The difference between editorial content and marketing messages must be transparent. • Editorial integrity must not be compromised by advertiser influence.

In hindsight, we’ve always tried to follow these principles. On occasion we have fallen short (particularly when the finances were tight in the beginning), but for the most part we have done pretty well. Feature articles are never paid for without being clearly marked as an advertisement. Joe McPherson r a r ely eve n t el l s u s whe r e he’s going for his food review nowadays. We cover the bill for our monthly Seoul restaurant review. Our advertisers end up being reviewed only a fraction of the time, which is probably less than it should be. Our advertisers boast English-speaking staff and an understanding of Western tastes and service expectations. Nonetheless, upon quick review, the last 6 months’ reviews have not been on one of our advertisers. I don’t remember the last time one was. But what I still wonder is if we’re not just hamstringing ourselves unnecessarily. Am I just a relic? The world is changing quickly. The lines are more blurred online, and people don’t seem to care as much anymore. Even major titles back in the US are breaking some of the ASME guidelines, putting a bit of advertiser content on the cover, calling paid content “Promotional” or “Advertorial” instead of “Advertisement,” etc. When all the competition is doing it, why shouldn’t we? And where do you draw the line? Have we done okay, or have we done poorly? Did you subscribe to 10 because you could tell the difference? Tell me - I really want to know. My email address is sr@10mag.com. And as always, if you do appreciate our attempts to keep church and state separate, please patronize our advertisers and tell the owners you’re there because you saw them in 10. Steph en R ev er e M anaging E dito r

A Shot of Korean by Stephen Revere 한자 [ Hanja ] - Chinese Characters (Chinese-derived Korean words) The reason I’m teaching you this word this month is that from here on out we’re going to be throwing in an extra at the bottom of this explanation. I’m going to share with you a Chinese character that is going to help you guess the meaning of many other words. Many Korean words are derived from Chinese words, so if you want to build your vocabulary, knowing some Chinese characters can come in quite handy. 한자가 어려워요. [Han-ja-ga eo-ryeo-wo-yo.] Chinese characters are difficult. 한자 몰라요. [Han-ja mol-la-yo.] I don’t know any Chinese characters. Your Chinese character for the month - 자 (字 - 문자 자) - 문자 (text), 글자 (letter), 숫자 (number, numeral) Check out Survival Korean and Survival Korean: Basic Grammar Skills for more Korean lessons from 10’s Managing Editor, Stephen Revere. 4 | 10 Magazine March 2012

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Kyounghee Lim kl@10mag.com Chan-hui Jeong finance@10mag.com Dami Kang dk@10mag.com

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Neil Armstrong (p. 68) signs himself “N. B. Armstrong” when authoring textbooks because his real name might disappoint students looking for stories of space travel. He doesn’t sign his name at all when doing translating work. Neil is from the English Midlands and has lived on the Korean south coast for over a decade. He has two books about South Korea coming out this year.

Managing Editor Production Editor

Aaron Geddes (p. 22) teaches at a university outside of Seoul. Having been in Korea since 2004, he has had a lot of time to travel around Asia while always carrying his camera. When back in Seoul, he spends a lot of time playing hockey and soccer, or just hanging out with friends. Rajnesh Sharma (p. 15) is a Canadian writer and photographer who has traveled to nearly 30 countries to gain insight into cultural issues. When not enthralled in storytelling, she is intrigued by movies, reading, and nature. Her sense of adventure includes scuba diving, trekking, and rafting. A pristine beach, fine dining, and dancing the night away are her remedies for relaxation.

Contributors N.B. Armstrong, Michael Berry, Shauna Browne, Todd Bruns, Judith Ann Clancy, Tom Coyner, Matthew Crawford, Anjee DiSanto, Samantha Dix-Hill, Curtis File, Aaron Geddes, Aireanne Hjelle, Nina Hoffman, Michael Johnstone, Violet Haeun Kim, Leroy Kucia, Stafford Lumsden, Paul Matthews, Joe McPherson, John Mensing, Chris Mitchell, Charles Montgomery, Robert Neff, Anna Orzel, Rob Ouwehand, Milgem Rabanera, Mary Rager-Summers, Barun Sarkar, Rajnesh Sharma, Rhiannon Shepherd, David Stowe, Luigina Webb, Soyeon Kimberly Yoon, Troy Zitzelsberger Art Director Photographer Contributing Designer

Chris Mitchell (p. 54) is a native of Toronto, Canada, which explains his love of nature and maple syrup. He’s traveled around the world, but has found his home for the time being on this pleasant peninsula in Yongin. You can catch him reading, writing, eating, or even sleeping all across Korea – and on his blog at travelingmitch.blogspot.com. David Stowe (p. 22) is originally from the Ottawa Valley in Canada where he grew up dreaming of becoming a world traveler. Based in Korea for over a decade, he has lived, worked, studied, traveled (and skied) in North America, Europe, the U.K., the Middle East, the Caribbean, Australia, New Zealand and a “fair bit” of Asia. On his most recent trip to East Timor he purposely spent zero time researching or planning ahead for the trip so that everything would happen on the fly. starwalkers.consultants@gmail.com

Contribute to 10 Magazine 10 Magazine is currently looking for contributors all over Korea to provide photography and articles. If you’re interested in gaining valuable writing experience and sharing your experience here with readers all across Korea, contact us at 10mag.com/contribute. 6 | 10 Magazine March 2012

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Yang Joo-yeong is in her last year in university. She has been working for 10 Magazine during this winter vacation. As she has spent most of her early 20s studying at school, she hopes her mid 20s will be more relaxed. Lately, she’s trying to get more exercise – especially to music.

Jai-yoon Kim jaiyoonkim@10mag.com Stephen Revere sr@10mag.com David Carruth dc@10mag.com

For this month’s cover photo, Dylan Goldby set up his tripod on the Cheonggyecheon Stream in downtown Seoul and took shots for 16 hours. At home, he blended these together in chronological order to show how a single spot changes during the course of a single day.

The views expressed in these articles do not necessarily represent the views of 10 Magazine. 10 Magazine March 2012, Vol. 4 No. 6 등록번호: 용산 라 00184 (Registration: Yongsan Ra 00184) Address 서울시 용산구 이태원로 211 한남빌딩 10층 10th floor Hannam Buildling 211 Itaewon-ro, Seoul 140-893 Phone 02-3447-1610 www.10mag.com 10 Magazine is published monthly by 10 Media Inc. © All Rights Reserved.

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DEPARTMENTS Blog of the Month

le tt ers

Add Cheap Eats for Lunch to Guru Map! I have been living in Seoul since May 2011. My friends and I always talked about how it would be nice if they believed in “happy hour” like the U.S. does. And then, 10 Mag started publishing a little magazine called “Guru Maps” that almost answered our call. Inside this little magazine, there’s a section called “Cheap Eats” which we love. This opened our eyes to places that have discounted wings, steaks, burgers, etc. on different nights of the week. This sounds like home, and we love it. Now we are asking for something similar. Please start advertising “Cheap Eats” for lunch. We eat out nearly every day for lunch in the Itaewon area. This is putting a huge damper in our pockets. $10 - $15 per lunch is pretty expensive. Eventually we will have to start packing a lunch several days a week. If you could find restaurants that would agree to have “Cheap Eats,” for example halfprice burgers on Tuesdays, this would help us tremendously. Thank you and have a great New Years. Nathan Wick in Yongsan-gu, Seoul

First of all, thank you for your interest in Guru Maps. We’re very happy to hear that you’re enjoying it. We’ve been printing the Itaewon Guru Map for about 6 months now and it is growing fast. When we first published it, it was just a quarterly map, but after we saw the need in the market we decided to publish it monthly. Since then we have started added more content to it. The first thing that came to our minds was cheap eats and brunch information, and we recently added happy hours as well. Even though our office is in Itaewon and our usual hangouts are all located in the area, we still open up the Guru Map to look up the day’s special before we go out after work. As you suggested, we will also work on lunch specials, ladies’ nights, and more. As we continue to grow, we will be able to add more content to the Itaewon interview, Itaewon hotties, and other articles we are already printing. So please take Guru Maps with you and show Itaewon businesses how great a tool it is for promoting their services! 10

Korea by the Numbers

If you try to visit a censored website, your browser will display the image above. Tra n s l at i o n Censorship of Illegal and Harmful Information (Website) The site you have tried to visit is censored for containing illegal and harmful material. This censorship has been authorized by the Korea Communications Standards Commission. If you have a question, please contact the organization listed below.

151 82

Number of South Koreans questioned on suspicion of violating the National Security Law in 2010. There were 39 in 2007. Number of South Koreans prosecuted for pro-North Korean activity online in 2010. There were 5 in 2008. Number of South Korean websites shut down for pro-North Korean material in 2010. There were 18 in 2009.

67,333

Number of web posts censored by police for “praising North Korea and denouncing the U.S. and the government” in 2010. There were 14,430 in 2009. Source: New York Times, January 7th, 2012

8 | 10 Magazine March 2012

On Becoming a Good Blog Words by Rob Ouwehand

Blogs range from blush-inducingly confessional to academically topic-focused, but the best bring a unique voice to their topic. On Becoming a Good Korean (Feminist) Wife (msleetobe.wordpress.com) introduces the perspective of a Canadian forming a cross-cultural family in Korea, with humor, warmth, intelligence, and first-rate writing. The writer’s online persona is Ms. Lee to Be, a name that focuses on becoming, a major theme in the blog. An educator married to a Korean man, with an advanced degree in Asian religions and an inside view of Korean families, Ms. Lee has a perspective that is hard to find among all the blogs by unmarried young English teachers. Her level of background knowledge and context, equally rare, deliver some surprisingly insightful views on the topics she covers. While she has always examined cultural gaps and family issues since the blog’s inception, Ms. Lee’s most recent posts merit special mention: follow the story of her first son’s entry into the world and her thoughts on Korea’s pediatric health care system—and don’t forget to congratulate her in the comments. The Scores Content The strength of the blog is in the perspective, humor, and insight Ms. Lee to Be brings to her commentary and her storytelling. Layout There’s nothing wrong with a run-of-the-mill Wordpress blog, and it’s easily navigable: that’s all we need. Professionalism This is clearly a personal blog, so posts can be sporadic, but when they come, they’re always thoughtful and well-written.

THE READER'S 10

What Do You Miss Most About Life in Your Home Country?

hile most expats abroad enjoy new sights and unusual experiences, almost everyone feels a little homesick every now and again. Especially in a country as action-packed and filled with people as Korea, the constant grind of a busy work schedule and the crowds of people can wear you down after a while. When the going gets tough, what about home do you miss the most? This was our Reader’s 10 poll topic last month, and most of your answers are none too surprising. As probably anyone could have guessed the most popular response was family – living apart from parents and siblings is one of the biggest downsides of life overseas. But who would have guessed that expats miss hearing a familiar language even more than their friends and food back home? 10 Sports 9 Wider variety of concerts 8 Social infrastructure 7 More international cuisine 6 Local produce 5 Cuisine from back home 4 Friends 3 Diverse work opportunities 2 Understanding the language

1 Family

Food – there’s no denying its importance, and not only for preserving life. Life abroad can be challenging when you can’t find food that puts you at ease, as you can see by taking a look at the 5th, 6th, and 7th ranked entries in the poll above. This month, we’re going to ask you a question on a related topic

What Is Your Favorite Ethnic Cuisine? We got such a positive response to our articles in February about the top Mexican, Indian, and Thai restaurants that we’ve decided to take it a step further and see just what kind of cuisines you enjoy the most – even if they’re not always that easy to find in Korea. The poll will be up at 10mag.com/readers10 from February 28th through March 15th, so be sure to make your voice heard! 10 Magazine March 2012 | 9

10 Qu estions

Jason Strother

Freelance Radio Journalist S H ot by Dy l a n G o ld by

Interview by David Carruth

hen North Korea announced that Kim Jong-il had died this past December, international news outlets scrambled to find an authoritative English-speaking journalist located in Korea to provide commentary on the unfolding events. The person on the receiving end of many of these calls was Jason Strother, an American radio journalist who has been filing from South Korea for PRI’s The World and other programs for the past five years. 10 recently chatted with Jason to learn about his experiences as a radio stringer here.

1. What first brought you to Korea? I wanted to study in Asia while I was a broadcasting major back in New Jersey, and I’d asked my advisor to recommend a school in East Asia. He recommended Yonsei University. I didn’t know much about Korea at the time but I did a little research and Yonsei looked like a good option. It was pretty random that I ended up here, but the semester I spent here was probably the best time of my life.

10 Magazine March 2012

2. The word “journalist” conjures up images of TV anchors and newspaper reporters. What exactly does a freelance journalist do? As a freelance journalist, stories aren’t going to come to you. You have to go looking for them. And you don’t have a salary, so if you don’t work, you can’t pay your gas bill. So I feel that I’m constantly searching for new stories and pitching new ideas to clients. Just for my own survival, I can’t sit back and let things come to me. 3. Much of your work is for radio. Can you describe what goes into writing a radio report? Basically, I find a story idea, maybe something I’ve come across in a local newspaper or heard from friends. I send a pitch to my editor and if they say yes I make calls and set up interviews. Then I pack up my recording gear and I head out to do the interview. This brings me to a lot of different places: offices, out on the street, mountains, anywhere news is happening. Then I go home, select the sound bites I want to use in the piece, and write a script. I let my subjects tell the story; my voice just transitions between my sound bites. Then I send it to my editor and after the editing process is done I cut the sound bites, record my voice and send it to the client. 4. I understand that you have a visual impairment. Can you describe that for us? I’m legally blind. I can only see the E on the eye chart. I have to use a magnifier to read standard print. I wouldn’t be able to recognize a friend’s face from more than four meters away. With that said, I do not have a problem getting from point A to point B. I don’t bump into things and unless you saw me reading you would never know that I have a visual impairment.

5. How does your visual impairment affect your work and life in Korea? Because I’m legally blind I can’t read standard print. I can’t pick up a newspaper or a magazine to read it. I do all of my reading on the computer with my font turned up to 45. I use a text-tospeech converter on my computer to listen to articles. It’s challenging. I’m very comfortable in Korea now and I know how to get around. It’s sometimes hard to find the places I’m looking for but I manage to get by. I think that radio is a perfect medium for me just because I understand sound better and I know how to tell a story better orally than if I were writing. 6. Do you find that Korea is an accommodating place for the visually impaired? On the surface, you would think it is accommodating. Look on the sidewalks and you see the yellow raised pavement which is for the blind to drag their canes across. A lot of elevators speak the floor number and some have Braille. However, these infrastructural adaptations, while they seem nice, don’t necessarily imply that the blind have many opportunities either professionally or socially here. 7. What is one of your most memorable reports? In November 2010, two days after Yeonpyeong-do was attacked by North Korea, my intern and I took the ferry to the island. I spent 48 hours on the island and it was like being in one of those post-apocalyptic movies. Empty streets, dogs running around, helicopters off in the distance. Very surreal. Right as we were leaving on the third day, the air-raid sirens started going off. We were evacuated to a bomb shelter for close to half an hour underground not knowing what was happening. Fortunately, there was no second attack. It was the closest to being a war correspondent I had ever been. 8. How is the Korean press different from the West? If you pick up a newspaper, you know what articles and angle you’re going to get. The big issue is how much these papers rely on a particular Chaebol for advertising revenue, which has a major impact on business and technology. I don’t think it’s possible to get a very fair assessment because the owners of these papers are worried about losing money from their sponsors. However, there is also good journalism and there are very good journalists here. 9. In recent years, print journalism has been adversely affected by the growth of the internet. What has the influence been on radio journalism? I tend to think that radio has had a sort of renaissance in the last few years because of online podcasts and streaming radio. Before, you would only listen to radio when you were driving but now it’s readily available anytime. Whether on your computer or your smartphone, you can access so many sources of audio that never existed in the past. I think news radio’s profile has been greatly enhanced by broadband and smart technologies. But of course like print journalism there have been some cutbacks at radio stations. 10. With the death of Kim Jong-il, there has been much speculation about what will change on the peninsula. What can we expect to see in North Korea? I don’t think that North Korea is going to change very much even now with the ascension of Kim Jong-eun. There are many old guards who still have significant influence in how the country conducts its policies. I think it would take the dying out of these old generals for there to be any significant change. The bottom line is that North Korea’s elite don’t want to lose their status and they will do whatever they can to keep their privilege at the expense of the other 22 million North Koreans. 10 T i p

To follow Jason’s radio reports, visit his website at jasonstrother.com. 10 Magazine March 2012 | 11

Traveling in Style

For the high and mighty in Joseon Korea, moving around was no simple affair, often requiring the assistance of numerous servants and retainers.

From top: Korean woman and horse in Seoul in 1884; Korean high officer on outing circa 1900-1910

12 10 Magazine March 2012

or the man of means, traveling in Joseon Korea was quite an affair. Whenever a yangban (양반, nobleman) passed down the streets, people of lower social status were forced to dismount and bow. Failure to do so usually resulted in a severe beating or even imprisonment. The only exception to this rule was a young man on his way to get married – he was not required to dismount. In the capital city of Seoul, it was nearly impossible to go any great distance without encountering a nobleman. Thus Pimatgol (피맛골) was invented. Pimatgol was the long alley that ran along Jongno, one of the main streets of Seoul, and allowed the common people to carry on their normal activities away from the view of the nobility. This alley soon became a popular place to drink and eat. Obviously the worst way to travel through the soggy streets of Seoul was on foot. Not-so-affluent nobles were forced to strut down the street with an attendant supporting each of their arms. Of course, nobles weren’t the only ones, as an American visitor observed in 1888:

Words BY Robert Neff Photos courtesy of the Robert Neff collection

Gangnam / Myeongdong / Sadang / Mokdong / Yeomchang / Seogyo / Seoyeouido Wangsimni / Times Square / Seoul Station / Yongsan Station / Eunpyeong Seoul Finance Center / Myeongdong (ANEX) / Samseong (COEX) / Jongno Ilsan / Suwon Ingye / Bucheon Jungdong / Dongtan Megapolis / Pyeongtaek E-Mart

Nobleman and horse circa 1900-1910

Busan Lotte Dapartment (Gwangbok) / Busan Haeundae / Cheonan Sinbu

“The more money [the Koreans] have the more servants they keep, and the generals of the army among the most pompous of them. One of these silk-gowned, black horse hair hatted Corean generals was going up one of the hills about the capital the other day. He had two men behind him to push him and two others held his arms, when General Dye [an American advisor], who by the way is twice the man’s age, walked by him with a springing step and asked him as he passed if he expected to have that retinue with him in battle. It took some time for the Corean to appreciate the sarcasm in this remark, but it finally crept through his top knot that among the Western people, laziness and inability were not marks of honor and the next time the two came together the yang ban general walked alone.” The next class of travel for a nobleman was by donkey or horse. The exalted one rode upon what one Westerner described as “a ridiculously elevated saddle” and was supported by a man on either side while another man led the animal. But noblemen were not the only ones to use human supports. In 1901 a British diplomat wrote, “I saw only two officers on horseback, the older officer of the two had a soldier on each side of him, while the horse of the younger man was led by a servant. I was told that it is in strict accordance with Corean etiquette for a great man to be supported when mounted.” Considering the Korean pony’s reputation for orneriness, the Westerner felt the officers’ precautions were “fully justified.” The highest form of travel in Seoul was by chair. While some of the chairs were pretty plain – basically a chair with two long poles – other chairs were elaborate affairs and were covered with leopard or tiger skins. In addition to the chair were the staff accompanying it. There was at least one runner in front to warn the common people of the nobleman’s approach. In addition, there was “a custodian of the seals of his master which would be borne along in a brass-bound box. Another man would bear in a case strapped to his back, the uniform to be donned at court before going into the presence. There would be the pipebearer, whose duty it is to light his master’s pipe – wiping off the mouthpiece on the inside front breadth of his skirt thereafter.” And, there was one other man that no noble of any standing could do without, especially when out and about: the chamber pot carrier. 10 Magazine March 2012 | 13

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A TASTE OF KOREA

Bogeo

복어

Puffer Fish

W o r ds a nd s h ots by A n j e e D i S a n t o

The poisonous puffer fish is regarded as one of the more dangerous delicacies to be eaten, but the experience today is a much tamer affair.

“P

oison, poison, tasty fish.” I recalled the words from an iconic Simpsons episode in which Homer eats poisonous puffer fish. A dramatic cartoon chef slices the fish according to a comical diagram, “removing” the highly poisonous sections. A similar scene was in my mind the night I went to try bogeo (복어), the potentially poisonous puffer fish more popularly known to many Westerners by its Japanese name “fugu.” I imagined solemn knife-donning chefs in tall hats, sweating anxiously as brave foreigners tasted a slice of their wares. Korean bogeo, however, proved not to be so dramatic. In Jeonju’s Ijo Bokchip (이조복집), a restaurant recommended by my Korean acquaintances, chuckling, curly-haired ajummas replaced the image of knife-wielding chefs, and chunks of fish appeared innocuously in piping hot stews. “Is it safe?” I asked in choppy Korean. Twice. Both times, the aging server answered with only a hearty belly laugh. Puffer fish soup (called “bokguk,” 복국) made its way to our table – a hot, brothy soup full of unassuming bean sprouts and green onions. Substantial chunks of fish poked from the surface, revealing eyes and scales. The fish meat itself was neither particularly fishy nor noticeably flavorful, but optional spicy sauce (which can be pre-added by the chef, if desired) helped to com-

bat this. Not thrilling – just filling. Other popular forms of bogeo included a puffer fish bulgogi smothered in spicy sauce (coming in at a much higher price than our W15,000 shared soups). Meanwhile, each table had its most intriguing taste of the fish in the form of a side dish of puffer fish skin called bok kkeopjil (복껍질). This delicacy appeared in thin slivers, each piece comprising two thin layers of gelatinous fat with what felt like a scrubbing sponge in the middle. Again, the taste was unremarkable, but in this case, the texture was surprising and refreshing, unique enough to taste again and again. And as before, a tangy red sauce appeared alongside to kick up the flavor. Everything else about this “death-defying experience” seemed rather ordinary. Kimchi and other familiar side dishes graced our low-set table alongside the standard bottles of Hite and soju. No signing of liability forms, no nervous watching of chefs. The reason for this lack of panic? Farmers are now able to breed puffer fish without poison in the glands or skin. Safe taste, less thrilling. Even in the case of naturally occurring bogeo, Koreans were quick to point out that trained chefs in Japan can carefully slice the fish and send the safe parts frozen to Korea. All in all, though the experience lacks the f lare one might imagine, it offers a taste of exotic textures and an item to check off on your traveling bucket list. A side dish of puffer fish skin called bok kkeopjil

Netizen’s Picks Geumsu Bokguk 금수복국

Originating in Busan in 1971, the ttukbaegi bokguk (puffer fish stew) here has 41 years of history behind it. The stew tastes light and clean and is also said to be effective at relieving hangovers as it has lot of bean sprouts in it. Don’t forget to have some baked sweet potatoes for dessert. 627-12 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul. ksbog.com 02-3448-5488

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다복 The course meals in the evening range from W40,000 to W70,000, but you can score a discount at lunch with a set for W25,000, which features the venerable puffer fish served as sushi, as sashimi, fried up, in stew, and in porridge. Watch them chop up the puffer in front of you – it may still be moving when it reaches your plate! 368-8, Sanggye 2-dong, Nowon-gu, Seoul. daboc.co.kr 02-900-9505

Dabok

Those Who Catch Puffer Fish

복어 잡는 사람들 This Daegu restaurant is best known for bokbulgogi, puffer fish marinated with red pepper paste. Another specialty here is the delicious fried rice served with bokbulgogi sauce and surrounded by a circle of steamed eggs. For a deluxe experience, try the course meals (W30,000 - W190,000). 676-2 Hwanggeum-dong, Suseong-gu, Daegu. 053-762-0707

IN THE KITCHEN American chef and world traveler Frank Terzoli brings passion and inspiration to the Suji’s kitchen.

merican chef Frank Terzoli, the new executive chef at the Suji’s restaurant chain, had the fortune to discover his passion at a young age. At the age of eight, inspired by his Sicilian grandmother, Frank recognized his love for cooking. Two years later, this zest for cooking landed him a job at his uncle’s restaurant. Since then, Frank’s passion for the culinary world has only intensified. Aside from being a competitor on the American reality show Top Chef, he has traveled to 27 countries to delight others with his creative cooking style. Now, almost three decades since he got started in the culinary arts, his career path has led him to South Korea. Even though Frank admits that he had never imagined South Korea in his cards, he is now Suji’s new executive chef. He is responsible for the company’s research and development, a s wel l a s ove r s e e i n g t h e culinary aspects of all Suji’s outlets in Korea and Japan. While in Korea, Frank will be working at the Suji’s headquarters to enhance the menus. Inspired by ideas of simplicity and balance, he aims to create a repertoire of dishes to

gratify both Asian and Western palates. Aside from spicing up Suji’s menus with his unique dishes, he will be responsible for the management of chefs. Frank intends to work with and learn from these knowledgeable chefs, rather than simply micromanaging them. He is eager to build on what already exists as he continues to explore Asian flavors. As the creative engine of Suji’s, Frank has already successf ully jazzed up Suji’s menu in Tokyo, Japan, with the introduction of his delicious Shrimp and Watermelon Ceviche. This exquisitely refreshing appetizer is a heavenly treat for any palate. The combination of diced cucumbers, thinly sliced r e d o n io n s a n d c ele r y, c u b e d watermelons and fresh shrimp - all marinated in various citrus juices and spices - is only one example of Fran k’s ingenious cook ing style. Frank’s philosophy is that “food always tastes bet ter f rom the heart.” He believes, if you truly put passion into you r cooking, customers can tell from the flavors. At the moment, Frank is busy putting his creativit y to good use as he whips together a savory collection of dishes which he believes will be a big hit in Korea. It will be exciting to see what new delights will be spicing up Suji’s menu in 2012.

Flavors from the Heart W o r ds a nd s h ots by R aj n e sh S harma

Frank Terzoli’s Shrimp and Watermelon Ceviche • • • • • • • • • • • • •

2 lemons juiced 2 oranges juiced 3 limes juiced 3 cups fresh watermelon cubed 1 cucumber diced 1 stalk celery chopped ¾ cup ketchup ½ cup mustard 1 tbsp hot chili paste ½ tsp salt 1 tsp black pepper ½ red onion sliced thin 1kg 41/50 count white shrimp peeled and deveined

Blanch shrimp in salted water for 90 seconds until color starts to change, about half cooked.

Squeeze all the citrus and split into 2 equal portions.

3 Place

shrimp in one portion and set aside.

Combine remaining ingredients in a large bowl. 5

After the shrimp has cured for 30 minutes mix the 2 portions together and keep refrigerated until ready to serve.

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Spor ts and Fitn ess

Ultimate

in Sportsmanship, Community, and Fun

Wo r ds a nd s h ots by J udi t h A n n C l a n cy

The inexpensive alternative sport rounds up all types for a fast-paced and friendly game on Korean fields.

oing ho? Check feet? Watch your marker? What does it all mean? Ultimate Frisbee. I first heard about ultimate a little over five years ago. A friend had started playing on a university team. Now, living in Korea, I find that I’m always around someone who played the game back home or plays it here. Do I attract the “ultimate Frisbee” type? After a quick survey of friends and acquaintances, I realize that there is no “ultimate” type of person. Tall, short, jacked, f labby, male or female – anyone can play. That’s the beauty of the sport and why so many people have gotten into it. It’s cheap, it’s easy to learn, and players instantly become part of a community. Read on to get involved in this up-and-coming unconventional sport in Korea. LOW C O S T, H I G H VA L U E

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A Frisbee. That’s it. An entire season of play can cost as little as a frugal night out. The standard for ultimate Frisbee games, tournaments, or pick-up games are 175g flying discs. Ultimate brands vary, so it just comes down to personal preference. If you would like to be part of a league, matching uniforms are required. This past season the Seoul league went for one design and each team chose a different color. Non-metal cleats can prevent mucking up that butterfly cut as you try to intercept a pass. The terrain here can get slippery in the wet season, so good treads can be helpful. Hats can keep the sun out of your eyes as

you go for that alligator catch in game play. Sweatbands in the summer can help with Korea’s blazing heat, but other than a Frisbee everything is optional. If you are looking for gear, Five Ultimate is the biggest brand represented in Korea, but for specifics you may have to do some online shopping. F I N D G A M E S ON FAC EBOO K

For all your ultimate needs, turn to the Korea Ultimate Players Association, or KUPA as its members refer to it. They also have a website (koreaultimate.net), but the Facebook group (simply search for “Korea Ultimate Players Association”) is updated more often. Links, highlight reels, maps to games, and general ultimate banter are all available on the group page. If you’re looking to get started and don’t want to fumble around in your first pick-up game, read up on the rules and regulations. The USA Ultimate website (usaultimate.org) has short and long versions that can get you started. Once you have a little knowledge of the game, get out there! The wonderful thing about the sport is that anyone can play. It helps to have some athletic background, but in the spirit of the game, ultimately the only thing required to send the Frisbee gliding is a sense of fun and fair play. TO U R N A M ENT S

Fun or competitive, Korea has ultimate tournaments for any type of player. There are “hat” tournaments that mix newbies with the vets for a weekend of Frisbee fun. Players’ names are thrown in a “hat” and names are pulled out at random to form teams. Each player must also bring a hat to wear during the tournament. If a veteran is fast, their hat is likely to fall off. If it does, the play returns to the point when the hat was last on. It gives the newbies on the field a fair chance, and the veterans can still have fun. The tournament atmosphere is relaxed and fun. The main goal is to provide a way to get involved in the Korean ultimate scene. If you are looking to get serious, try out for a club team. The best way to start is to go to pick-up games or join a city team. The best players in the city leagues make up the club traveling teams. Past Korean club team members have participated in tournaments in China, Singapore, Hong Kong, and the Philippines. Last but not least, there is one international tournament that brings club teams from all over the world here to Korea. The Jeju Dirty Dozens (April 14th – 15th, 2012) is said to be one of the best tournaments in Asia. It’s a rad weekend with big-name sponsors and an immense amount of international talent. If there is one Korean tournament to take part in, it’s this one. Check the KUPA website for details or send an email to jejutournament@ gmail.com. C O M M U N I TY I N KO R E A

Ultimate is a relatively new sport in Korea. This means fewer players, smaller city leagues, and a limited number of tournaments. Players in Korea are working toward getting more people involved (Korean and foreign) by coaching college teams, creating training material, and holding training clinics in English and Korean. Most players would love to see the sport grow, as a greater number of players would create more playing opportunities. But for now, they will have to be satisfied with the plus side of a small but supportive community. 10 Magazine March 2012 | 17

kor ean Desti nation

To the Western Frontier

The Journey to Hongdo and Heuksando W o r d s a n d s h o t s b y M at t h e w C r aw f o r d

“D

o they have electricity and running water yet?” my friend Larry asked a few days after I’d returned from Hongdo and Heuksando. Since he visited in the early 70s, they have indeed been equipped with electricity, running water, and telephone and internet service, but none of these modern conveniences has left a deep mark on these remote islands where modern concepts of time become meaningless.

10 Magazine March 2012 2011

The jour ney to the Daedohan Marine National Park islands of Hongdo and Heuksando begins in Mokpo, at the end of the Honam railway line on the southwestern corner of the peninsula. Several boats leave each day from the imposing new domestic terminal. Rounding the cape of Mokpo Port, the ferry passes between the giant concrete supports for the Mokpo-Kohado Bridge, a monumental construction project-cum-photo opportunity. After threading between the cluster of islands that hug the coast, the boat reaches a stretch of open sea notorious for its choppiness. At this point, several passengers may rise from their seats and stagger ominously toward the bathroom stalls, and the crewmembers may begin passing out small plastic barf bags. Such is the glory of the islands that thousands of travelers brave this frightful passage year by year. The further of the two islands is Hongdo (홍도). When a weekend’s worth of travelers disembark, the pier is filled with jostling crowds of middle-aged tourists. The bright pattern of their hiking jackets is mesmerizing, but if you look beyond them you’ll glimpse some of the wildest cliffs in Korea. From the pier, you may follow the red-, pink-, and purple-jacketed tribe onto a tour boat that circumnavigates the island, taking in its cliffs and pinnacles (W22,000; 1.5 hours), or you may explore the steep, sunbaked lanes of the town and the charmed hills of the northern section of the island. At the joint between the north and south sections you’ll discover Mongdol Beach ( 몽 돌해수 욕 장 ), covered with perfectly round stones and f lanked by a rocky wall that feels higher than the 63 Building in Seoul. Continue further to reach the path up to Gitdaebong (깃대봉, 368 meters), continuing on to Village #2 (2구 마을) and the lighthouse. The southern section of Hongdo is presently off-limits to visitors, though a trail will be completed within the next couple years. At least one of the locals – a smallplot farmer with a quick temper – is fiercely protective of this undeveloped side of the mountain, so proceed with caution. Whether you’ve gone for a round-theisland cruise, a nature walk, or a dip in the ocean, you’ll probably still have enough time for a meal. The restaurants on Hongdo serve up maeuntang (매운탕, classic spicy seafood stew, W30,000), jangeotang when available ( 장어탕, eel stew, W30,000), jeonbokjuk (전복죽, abalone porridge, W15,000), and several types of hoe (회, sashimi, W60,000). Saengseongui (생선구이, grilled fish) is also available at the food tents along the pier. If you’re embarking on a weekend trip to this set of islands, you’ll have to decide which of the two to spend the night on. The larger of the islands is Heuksando (흑산도),

with a wider range of accom modation choices than Hongdo. While the harbor cur ves for kilometers in a near perfect semi-circle, Heuksando town is relatively compact. The fiscally intrepid will shun the hotels and head straight for a minbak (민밥). In some parts of South Korea minbak function as home-stays, but here they are more like low-grade motels (try 만수 민박, 061-275-9956; rooms start at W30,000). An experienced traveler recommends staying at one of the isolated coves, as there are minbak scattered around the perimeter of the island. From the harbor, you may explore the entire circuitous coast or head for the sprawling highlands. (Inquire at the tourist information booth for information on bike or scooter rentals.) The forested hills are just as untouched as those on Hongdo, and are filled with the smells of plant life and the calls of birds stopping over en route from Siberia. Along the coast are several beaches, among which the most popular and accessible is Baenangkimi (배낭기미 해수욕장). Travelers with time to spare may want to move on to some of the small nearby islands for a taste of even greater solitude and remoteness. Ferries sail on odd-numbered days to Gageodo (가거도), Manjae ( 만재), and Sang-Hatae (상-하태). All the culinar y specialties found on Hongdo are also available on Heuksando, with the addition of hongeohoe (홍어회, raw skate), the fish that made the island famous. Restaurants in Seoul and other mainland cities serve skate that has been imported from Chile, while in Heuksando it is still possible to sample a fresh catch. Most South Koreans are familiar with the fermented version of the dish: the longer it is fermented, the stronger the stench of ammonia. One of the local skate restaurants, Hongtak (홍탁집, 061-2759925), serves raw skate that has been caught the day before, with a tender and delicate flavor instead of an ammonia sting. If you are hesitating over this dish, consider ordering samhap (삼합), a combination of raw skate, pork belly, and old kimchi (a two-person serving is W40,000). If you’re in luck, there will be fresh homemade magkeolli on hand, just like during the 70s.

2 3

B o at fa r e s

Mokpo to Hongdo: W38,300 Mopko to Heuksando: W34,800 Heuksando to Hongdo: W14,300

Previous page Skates drying in the sun on Mongdol Beach, Hongdo. 1 While Heuksando is famous for its skate, Hongdo is praised for its vertiginous cliffs. 2 Photogenic lanes skirt the hillside above Hongdo’s ferry dock. 3 Mild half-day to full-day hiking circuits span the interior of Heuksando. 4 A skate trawler anchored at Yeri Harbor, Heuksando. 5 Some local color near the ferry dock at Heuksando. 10 Magazine March 2012 | 19

Asi an Desti nation

Cruising Through Northeast Asia W o r d s b y S t e ph e n R e v e r e , s h o t s c o u r t e s y o f H a r m o n y C r u i s e

Harmony Cruise Lines brings Korea its first cruise line, offering you the chance to enjoy your trip to Japan, China and Russia without ever having to endure airplane food.

hat comes to mind when you think “cruise”? The Caribbean? Cruising up the North American west coast to see Alaska? Tropical climates? Unlimited alcohol? Gaming? A certain Italian ship captain “tripping” into a lifeboat after crashing his ship? Now there’s a company that is seeking to change your image of cruises - or perhaps Koreanize it. Harmony Cruise Line is Korea’s first ever domestic cruise line and they’ve started out with a nice little cruise ship with room for up to 900 guests in their 383 cabins. And it comes complete with a Caffe Bene. Despite my terribly busy schedule I sacrificed a day of my time to leave frigid Seoul (it was -16) and make the long trip down to balmy Busan (only -1 that day) to attend the opening ceremonies and go for an overnight cruise just so I could fill you all in. I’m no cruise expert, but it certainly lived up to my expectations. This boat was purchased from Italy and all of the European touches are there, right down to the Austrian hotel General Manager, Stefan Peter Kern. Okay, not the best time to be associated with Italian cruise ships, but the owning company aren’t amateurs. Harmony was started by Polaris Shipping, one of Korea’s biggest shipping companies, so they have decades of experience

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on the seas behind them, and Captain Lee Hyung-shik (이형식) has been captaining ships for over a decade. No Ferrari drivers here - just Hyundai. The ship boasts a buffet restaurant, fine dining restaurant, theater, ballroom, night club, spa, sauna, health club, swimming pools and even a kids club. The ship itself is luxurious and beautifully designed - it is an Italian boat after all, and it was designed by Guido Canale. The salon, casino and duty free shopping are there, as is the friendly staff and spectacular food. Buffets are of course inevitable on a ship like this, but I have to say the food on offer at this smorgasbord was spectacular. There were two cooking stations serving up fresh galbi (갈비, ribs) for dinner and at breakfast they were hard at work on omelets made to order and freshly made French toast. All of the usual sushi culprits were there, but so was fatty tuna - not common on a buffet in my experience. The Philippine and Korean chefs on board obviously knew how to cater to international tastes. In fact, head chef Lee Chunshik (이춘식) has cooked at the Blue House for visiting presidents and dignitaries, ensuring both Korean and international cuisine par excellence. While sitting around with the bartender chatting I also learned

that a huge portion of ship crews around the world are from the Philippines, and the Club Harmony is no exception with friendly Philippine smiles and terrific service in abundance. What is unique is the approximately 20% or so Korean staff on board, of course making it convenient for the Korean speakers who will inevitably be the majority of the clientele. Even the Korean staff speak English well, though, so those of you non-Korean speakers will still have no trouble communicating with the friendly crew. The other key to any good cruise is of course the entertainment, and again Harmony doesn’t let you down. The highlight for me was The Big Band. Direct from New Orleans, this 9-member band plays all your favorite classics, and if you close your eyes you’d swear there were twice as many musicians up there. The two lead singers are stupendous, and together they have the audience standing up and dancing in no time - even in Korea. They play a few sets each night, but the highlight is in the ballroom after dinner (and plenty of drinks of course). There’s also a nightly “K-Girls” K-pop dancing performance and a participatory Mardi Gras Carnival Festival complete with masks and outfits for you and the family. Being a brand new cruise line, they’re of course looking to fill seats, er, cabins. Expect to pay 30% or so less right now than you’d be paying this time next year for a trip to see Japan and bounce around Fukuoka, Nagasaki and Osaka. Currently all of the trips planned are to Japan, but they’ll be adding Chinese destinations and even Russia in the near future. Trips are generally 3- to 4-night cruises and my little cabin slept 3, so prices can become surprisingly affordable right now depending on the accommodation you choose. For more information: www.harmonycruise.com (no English yet, sorry), 02-2260-1234, 1600-1073

Asi an Desti nation

A Tour of East Timor W o r d s b y Dav i d S t o w e , s h o t s b y A a r o n G e d d e s a n d Dav i d S t o w e *

If you are searching for a trip back to a time before guide books and online forums removed both the elements of spontaneity and discovery from your travels, then East Timor might be the place to visit.

was on the intercity bus bouncing along the highway to the city of Baucau in East Timor when I happened to sit next to Patricio, a uni student. He was heading back from the capital of Dili to his hometown on a 5-day holiday. He was majoring in English and his pronunciation was amazing. I asked him if he – and his motorcycle - would like to show me around the following day. He readily agreed. The next day, our first stop was his former high school. He was most eager to show me his “study room,” which was set back about 1 km from the main road. It was an open cave (with a view). Stacked on tables and the walls were typical Catholic religious icons. Candles and electric lights added to the effect. This was obviously a place of solace for him. Next we moved on to the Seven Caves at Bercoli. Japanese troops had carved out these intricate sandstone caves as a local base for both their soldiers and vehicles during WW2. They had been abandoned long ago. As there were no signs, it would have been easy to miss them without my guide. Onwards to Venilalae, a village built around two Catholic schools, one a hospitality institute for young women, the other a seminary for young men. Patricio’s younger brother Ferdinand, who

10 Magazine March 2012

Previous page Some of the most remarkable views combine mountains, shore, and sea. This page In any other country, this stunning beach would be packed with tourists; here, it is deserted.

was tagging along with us, had previously spent two years here studying to become a priest before he dropped out and got his ear pierced. I asked him if he had made any girlfriends during his stay in the village. He looked at me in disbelief as if I had just suggested that it was possible to have children out of wedlock. Following a spartan lunch of bananas and crackers, we set out down a goat track of a road for nearby Mount Ariana. We left the bikes with a local farmer and hiked 20 minutes to the summit. It was an easy ascent. With my binoculars I took a good look at the panorama. North to the coast, a river valley and Baucau. To the south, high mountains competing with haze. The summit was deserted, except for the statue of Jesus and the Virgin Mary (an ubiquitous sight in East Timor). On our return to Baucau I bought the two brothers a sumptuous dinner at the Victoria cafĂŠ, a popular haunt for expats in this city. It was located in the center of lower Baucau, and provided a great view of the coastline. With Cakung International Airport shut down indefinitely, there wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t much to see in upper Baucau. I was lucky to score a room at the fabled Pink Palace hotel. There is a shortage of hotel rooms in East Timor and I got the last one available. Only a handful of hotels have internet bookings. Perhaps the most famous hotel in the country, it goes under three monikers: Pink Palace, Flamingo and Patau. The restaurant was warm and friendly. The next morning I enquired about a swim at their pool as I had received firsthand accounts of crocodile sightings at the beach. Sadly I was told that their pool was empty. We barely caught the bus back to Dili (all intercity buses depart before noon) and were only 20 kilometers out of Dili when the driver took an unexpected off-road detour on some sand flats. He was attempting to bypass a 10 Magazine March 2012 | 23

Asi an Desti nation machine and a wide variety of foreign products unimaginable at indigenous department or discount stores in the ROK. The fresh food market was also nearby and there was a cosy Thai restaurant right next to the market. Downtown at Castaways bar, I met other travelers and a few local expats. There is no real tourist shopping in Dili, but a brand new shopping mall is opening soon across from Leaders store on the airport road. It was time to leave. I hadn’t seen many other tourists, and there was little in the way of development or resorts. But the people had been friendly, and this had been a positive experience. There were still areas I did not visit: Arturo and Jaco islands, and the highest peak - Mount Ramelau - which was reputed to be an easy hike. I would return.

massive turbine delivery vehicle when the bus got a puncture. Some of us wandered over to a deserted farmhouse. Back on the bus I noticed that my duffel back had taken a few tumbles on the ground. It had been sitting on top of the spare tire. Fortunately, the zipper held fast and the dust – everywhere in the dry season –had not soiled my extensive wardrobe of T-shirts and shorts. Back in Dili, I needed more cash. This turned out to be somewhat of a challenge. There are only half a dozen ATMs in East Timor. Of these, it seemed that half were out of order on this particular day. So I took a taxi around Dili searching for a working ATM and finally found one on the third try. The driver spoke no English but a young local woman whom I shared it with told him what I needed. I returned to the Timor Lodge Hotel - really an array of dustcovered industrial trailers - and eagerly plunged into their crocfree pool before sitting poolside with a chilled Speight beer. This hotel had the most reasonable rates in town for single rooms at $25 a night with shared bathrooms. The restaurant had a varied menu with a choice of Western and Asian food. Wifi, satellite TV and a pool table were available for entertainment. It was also close to the big Leaders general store which has a reliable ATM

1* 3

10 Magazine March 2012

1 It’s hard to tell the difference between scribbled graffiti and an artistic mural on this storefront in Baucau. 2 These colorful intercity buses are a common way to get around East Timor. 3 Visitors in summertime can expect to see rich verdant fields like the ones shown here. 4 The Virgin Mary and Baby Jesus are joined by Patricio and Ferdinand at the peak of Mt. Ariana. 5 A young girl takes time to enjoy the simple pleasure of a game of volleyball.

2 4*

The Bold Traveler’s Guide to East Timor Unlike more popular tourist destinations, it’s not that easy to find info about traveling in East Timor. Fortunately, veteran globetrotter David Stowe has done the research for you. Getting there 5 airlines: Air Timor, Batavia , Mercati, Silk Air, Air

North. Flights from Indonesia, Singapore, and Darwin leave 2 - 4 times per week. Return flights cost approximately US $250 - $400. The (Presidente) Nicolau Lobato airport in Dili is at present the only point of entry/departure. Visa Entry fee of US $30 upon arrival, cash only. Exit fee $10, cash

only. 1 month maximum stay – you must have a passport valid for 6 months beyond intended date of departure. Embassies USA, UK, South Korea and Australia (Canadians can

any contingencies. Money USD is the official currency in East Timor – coins of less than

$1 are issued in local centavos. Do not count on credit cards, debit cards, traveler’s cheques, or any other currency to pay for any goods or services. International bank cards can be used to withdraw cash at the (limited) ATM machines for a steep $5 service fee. Keep lots of small bills handy. Transportation Overland only. As roads are not great, realistically

one should count on travel times of 30km/hour. Rental 4x4 vehicles are available for $110/day and rental motorbikes for $35/day at a few outlets near Dili airport. An international driver’s license is required. Only experienced motorbike or 4x4 truck drivers should attempt to take on East Timorese roads - preferably during daylight hours. Intercity buses are cheap but slightly crowded with limited luggage space. The yellow taxis in Dili are not equipped with meters, so negotiate before stepping into the cab. The dry season between May and November is the best time to visit as roads can get washed away easily in the rains. Arturo ($10 one way) and Jaco ($5 one way) islands can be accessed by fishing boats. Infrequent ferry service or charter ferries for $35/person (minimum 6 people) are available for Arturo. Both islands have highly underrated snorkeling/scuba diving. One or two tour companies offer packages. Accommodation Hotels are not cheap in Dili: $50 - $80 is the

standard price. Outside Dili, $25 is the norm, and of course dorms and smaller guesthouses can be cheaper. Arturo island has a couple of guest houses, but Jaco island none. Electricity is 220V only. Many places have Australian 3-prong outlets but adaptors are readily available. There are power outages, so it is recommended to bring one or two “miners” or compact LED flashlights and keep them handy after dark. Culture, Geography, and Economy East Timor (in Portuguese,

Timor Leste) is the eastern part of an island approximately the same size as Fiji or three fourths the size of Wales, with a population of about one million inhabitants. There are also two small islands – Arturo (near Dili) and Jaco (near Tutuala). It is the second newest country in the world and will celebrate its 10th year as a sovereign nation in 2012. 450 years of Portuguese rule followed by 15 years of strife with neighboring Indonesia led finally to Independence in 2002. The official languages are Tetum and Portuguese, but Indonesian and English have gained in popularity amongst the younger generation so that today perhaps only 5% of the population speaks Portuguese fluently. There are approximately 35 other indigenous languages. It’s a staunchly Roman Catholic nation (97% declared) and the church plays a large role in the spiritual, educational and social life of the East Timorese people. Coffee, agricultural products, and more recently offshore oil are the basis of the economy. Remittances from East Timorese working overseas are also increasingly an important source of revenue. 10 Magazine March 2012 | 25

So, you’ve just stepped off the plane at Incheon Airport. It’s your first time in Korea and you are ready to spend the next 24 hours in Seoul, one of the biggest cities in the world. With so much to do, and so little time, taking on the big city can seem overwhelming. In our December Reader’s 10, we asked readers for their opinion on the top 10 places to visit during a single day in Seoul. The result is an itinerary that will have you challenging your taste buds, touching history, and tapping into the pulse of one of the most dynamic cities in the world. Stop #1

Noryangjin Fish Market

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After spending hours in the sensory deprivation of an airplane, there is no better place to start your authentic Seoul experience than to jump in feet first at the Noryangjin fish market. The 66,000 square meter facility has over 700 stalls selling fresh octopus, squid, prawn, and almost anything with a set of gills that lives under water. Dining here is as close to a choose-your-own adventure as culinary experiences get. After browsing around the stalls and haggling with the hawkers, make a selection of whatever intrigues your palate. Then bring it to one of the restaurant stalls and they’ll grill it, steam it, or turn it into fresh sashimi right in front of you. These chefs operate on a “nothing goes to waste” philosophy. After cooking up your catch, they take the leftovers and serve them up in a spicy broth. It’s the perfect meal to fuel you up for a long day of sightseeing. G e tt i ng T h e r e Ride line 1 (the dark blue line) to Noryangjin station and take the only exit following the bridge across the tracks until you reach a rooftop parking lot. Take the stairs down to the fish market.

Stop #3

Bukchon Hanok Vill age

Stop #2

Gyeongbokgung Pal ace Close your eyes for a minute and imagine yourself standing in Seoul 500 years ago. It’s hard to picture the city with no highrises, no city lights, and no stretches of traffic. As one of the great relics of the Joseon Dynasty, Gyeongbokgung palace offers visitors the chance to interact with Korean history. Originally built in 1395, it was destroyed during the Japanese invasion of the late 1500s and later restored. It’s still home to some of the most stunning and traditional architecture in Seoul and is often touted as the most beautiful palace in the city. The changing of the guard ritual is performed hourly between 10 am and 3 pm, while traditional dance performances are held throughout the day. The W3,000 entrance fee to the palace will also get you into the nearby National Folk Museum and the National Palace Museum. G e tt i ng T h e r e Take line 3 (the orange line) to Gyeongbokgung station and take exit 5.

Seoul is a Sim-City of sorts. One day you may be shopping in a vintage clothing store only to discover just days later it has been replaced by a trendy new coffee shop. This rapid development is the engine that drives Seoul and it’s part of what makes living here such a dynamic experience. While the city has seen much of the old replaced with the new, Bukchon Hanok Village is an area where tradition is being preserved. Hanok (한옥), traditional-style homes characterized by intricate wooden frames and slated rooftops, have almost disappeared from the city save for the few small regions designated as government heritage sites. Nestled between Gyeongbokgung palace and Changdeokgung palace, the village is lined with hanok, many of which have been converted into commercial facilities and accommodations. Stroll through the narrow, seemingly haphazard alleys, and you’ll find plenty of hidden gems in the form of shops, restaurants, teahouses and cultural centers. A map marking eight of the best photo opportunities in the area can be found at any of the information booths. Gahoedong Alley, the sixth photo spot, offers one of the best views of the hanok against the backdrop of Seoul high-rises. G e tt i ng T h e r e Turn left as you exit Gyeongbokgung Palace and walk for about 10 minutes until you reach Anguk station. Coming out of exit 2, walk straight for approximately 5 minutes and you will come upon an information booth that offers visitors a map of the area.

Stop #4

Insadong The last stop on the more traditional leg of the 24-hour tour, Insadong is an art lover’s paradise and a great place to shop for souvenirs and refuel. During the Joseon Dynasty, the area was dominated by dohwawon (도화원, schools for artists). Today, that tradition is alive and well, with a few modern twists. The main road is a 700-meter stretch lined with small art galleries, craft stalls, antique stores and traditional Korean ceramic shops. Among the more common things for sale are parchment and calligraphy materials, hanji (한지, traditional paper), hanbok (한복, traditional clothing), tea, and accessories. Make sure to duck into the side alleys as they are filled with some of the most unique shops in the area. Ssamzigil Mall, near the center of the main road, is probably the best place to find crafts made by younger artisans. The entrance is an open courtyard usually occupied by stalls showcasing weekend arts and craft exhibitions. A walk up the winding staircase provides ample opportunity to browse through some of the more modern shops. The rooftop has a great cafe to rest your feet before you continue on your Seoul adventure. G e tt i ng T h e r e Insadong is a short walk from Bukcheon Hanok Village. Use your map to find your way back to Anguk Station and take exit 6. Walk straight until you reach a tourism information booth where you can get a map of the area. From here turn left to find yourself on the main road of Insadong. 10 Magazine March 2012 | 27

Stop #5

Stop #6

Underground arcades, alleys clogged with street vendors, and multi-story buildings packed with wholesalers and small business owners. Like so many of the markets in Seoul, Namdaemun is a multilayered labyrinth filled with hidden treasures best experienced by getting lost down its stairwells and side streets. It operates in a 24-hour cycle with retailers and small shops open from 7 am to 5 pm and wholesalers operating from midnight to 6 am. There are over 1,000 shops selling clothes, shoes, fabrics, toys, souvenir trinkets, and imported food among others. Namdaemun Market is also an excellent place to sample some authentic Korean street food. During the day the main road is packed with tents offering bindaetteok (빈대떡, mung-bean pancakes), manduguk (만두 국, dumpling soup), tteokbokki (떡볶이, rice cake in a spicy sauce) and more. Be prepared to wait in line though because the market gets crowded with hungry shoppers during the day. G e tt i ng T h e r e Take subway line 4 (light blue line) to Hoehyeon Station and take exit 5. You’ll find yourself at Gate 6, the entrance to the main market street.

Perhaps the only place in Seoul (and possibly the country) where the view from the bathroom is a selling point, Seoul Tower is one of the city’s most popular attractions. Situated at the top of Namsan Mountain, it has earned a reputation for having the most breathtaking views of Seoul and the surrounding area. A round-trip ticket on the cable car to the top of the mountain costs W7,500 (or you can walk if you’re into that sort of thing). Beside the observatory there are a ton of activities and sites to see. A fenced area at the base of the tower is a famous spot among the hopelessly infatuated. Couples express their affection by leaving behind padlocks adorned with photos and sweet nothings believed to bring good luck to blossoming relationships. Other activities include a revolving restaurant, performance halls, exhibition rooms, or just a stroll around the park. G e tt i ng T h e r e Take subway line 4 (light blue line) to Myeongdong station and take exit 3. Take the wide road next to the convenience store and walk straight passing the Pacific Hotel on your left. Continue walking until you reach a stairway and follow it keeping to your right. You will see a vacant parking lot on the right. This is where you will find the cable car platform.

Namdaemun Market

28 10 Magazine March 2012

Seoul Tower

Stop #7

Hongdae Free Market Although Hongdae is an area most famous for its nightlife, a trip during the afternoon on weekends offers the opportunity to explore another one of the city’s unique markets. Started in 2002, the open air market embodies the artistic free spirit of the district. Between 1 and 7 pm on Saturdays, the park across from Hongik University is packed with vendors selling handmade crafts. While much of what is on sale is geared towards women (necklaces, rings, and other jewelry), the crafts are not the only reason to visit the market. The area also attracts street performers. On any given weekend you’ll find dancers, singers, musicians and magicians creating a buzz of activity in the market. The Free Market only operates between March and November, so if your 24hour tour lands in the winter months, this is one stop you may have to miss. G e tt i ng T h e r e Take line 2 (the green line) to Hongdae University Station and take exit 9.

Stop #9

Part y in Hongdae

Stop #8

Kore an BBQ As far as food goes in Korea, barbecue is about as ubiquitous as it gets. You can hardly throw a stone without hitting at least one restaurant, whether it be a chain or a mom & pop shop. There is a simple reason for this phenomenon: Korean barbecue is awesome. Where restaurants are concerned in Korea, looks can be deceiving. What might appear to be plain Jane or down right dodgy could be home to some of the most authentic cuisine in the city. Generally speaking, though not always, price correlates with the quality of the meat so use this as a barometer when choosing a place to eat. A decent meal will run approximately W8,000 per serving. Keep in mind that most barbecue-style restaurants require a minimum order of two servings (since the meal is intended to be shared) so if you’re traveling alone, be prepared to eat a significant portion of meat. Since you’re going for the authentic experience, order at least one bottle of soju. It’s the perfect drink to start the night of partying ahead of you.

If the soju hasn’t hit you yet, don’t worry. Nightlife in Seoul typically starts late (12 am or later) and ends early in the morning so you are going to want to pace yourself. As a university district built for the student lifestyle there is an endless sprawl of hofs (Korean-style pubs where you order drinks with food), bars, and clubs serving up cheap drinks and plenty of opportunity to socialize with Koreans and expats alike. A great place to start the night is at Zen Bar. Tequila shots run just W2,000 and beer and cocktails are around W5,000 or less. From there you can move to any of the dozens of dance clubs. Some of the hot spots include Club Naked, Cocoon, Papa Gorillas, and Mama Gorillas. Cover charges average around W10,000 but can reach W30,000 at some of the bigger venues depending on the night and the event. You can also look into some of the live music venues. Club Evans features live jazz; Freebird features live, local rock; and V-Hall and Rolling Hall are larger concert venues that have attracted some of the bigger names in indie-rock. A word of warning: the streets of Hongdae are a bit chaotic and it is easy to get turned around or lost. As a first timer, your best bet in finding any particular establishment is to ask for directions. Also, keep in mind that many places require ID so make sure to bring your passport. G e tt i ng T h e r e Take line 2 (the green line) to Hongdae University Station and come out exit 9.

Stop #10

Jjimjilbang Forget worrying about a hotel for the night. After a long day of sightseeing and a night of partying in Hongdae, a stop by one of Seoul’s jjimjilbang (찜질방) is just what the doctor ordered. Averaging in price between W6,000 and W15,000 for a night, these 24-hour full service spas are a cheap alternative to a hotel. After grabbing a locker and changing clothes, head to the gender-segregated bathhouses to freshen up. These areas have shower facilities as well as wet service areas where you can get a full scrub down and massage. After you’ve freshened up, hit the sauna to relax and let the stress of the day wear off. While every establishment varies in style, it’s standard to have unisex sauna areas with a number of rooms ranging in temperature. You can sweat it out in one of the hotter rooms or cool off (particularly in the summer months) in an ice room. When you’ve finished pampering yourself, head to one of the common rest areas and enjoy a snack and nap before your morning flight. Like barbecue joints, jjimjilbang are very easy to come by. But if you’re ending the night in Hongdae, the best place to go is Happy Day Spa, where W10,000 will buy you up to 12 hours use of the facilities. G e tt i ng T h e r e The subway stops running after midnight, so you’ll have to take a taxi to wherever you decide to spend the night. Happy Day Spa is located at Seoul-si Mapo-gu Seogyodong 371-10 Gyusyudang Wedding Hall B1 (02-322-3399). 10 Magazine March 2012 | 29

E dited by J e ss ica l e e and Dav i d Carru t h

Bountiful Sunday Brunch Menu at JW’s Grill

Sample Premium Whisky at the Gentlemen’s Club Grand Hyatt Seoul Whisky enthusiasts are invited to experience the Gentlemen’s Club, a new program offered at the Grand Hyatt Seoul. The Gentlemen’s Club will feature various kinds of whisky and cigars in addition to gourmet dining, creating a comfortable atmosphere for social networking and relaxation. The theme of this month’s event, held on March 22nd at 7:30 pm, will be Ardbeg, an exquisite single malt whiskey from the Ardbeg distillery. W180,000++. seoul.grand.hyatt.com 02-799-8361

JW Marriott Seoul JW’s Grill at the JW Marriott Seoul is offering a new Sunday brunch. Choose from a rich selection of entrées at the Healthy Counter, Seafood Counter, Carving Counter, and Dessert Counter. Premium dishes such as duck foie gras and smoked salmon mille-feuille are prepared by the chef upon request. The feast comes with a glass of sparkling wine (W79,000++) or free-flowing Piper-Heidsieck champagne (W99,000++). 11 am – 1 pm and 1:30 - 3:30 pm. marriott.com 02-6282-6759

A Different Western Dish Each Day of the Week

Renaissance Seoul Hotel Through March 31st, the Renaissance Seoul Hotel’s café Vendome will be offering a variety of traditional Western dishes for lunch, with each day of the week featuring a different option. Guests can enjoy braised beef and mushrooms on Mondays, cassoulet on Tuesdays, chicken pot pie on Wednesdays, sauerkraut on Thursdays and salmon pie on Fridays. All items include a glass of house wine or draft beer. Meals start at W19,500++. renaissanceseoul.com 02-2222-8630

Lovely Cakes for Lovers on White Day

Novotel Ambassador Busan Delices, the lobby café at the Novotel Ambassador Busan, is baking some sumptuous cakes for White Day (March 14th). The twelve cakes on sale include Chocolat, Wild Berry Bavarian, Mango Mousse, Fruit Cheese, Black Forest, and New York Cheese Cake. One of these lovely cakes would be a thoughtful way to show your sweetheart how much he or she means to you this White Day. novotelbusan.com 051-746–8265 30 | 10 Magazine March 2012

Two for One Special at Oakwood’s Happy Hour Oakwood Premier Coex Center Seoul Escape the hustle and bustle of the city as you relax at the Residents’ Lounge Bar at Oakwood Premier Coex Center Seoul. At the bar, guests can set the mood for the evening by choosing drinks including hard liquor, cocktails, wine, beer and more. And during happy hour, which takes place on Thursdays and Fridays from 6 to 9 pm, if you order one drink you’ll get a second one on the house. 6 pm – 1 am on weekdays, 6 pm – 12 am weekends and holidays. oakwoodpremier.co.kr 02-3466-7203

+ = subject to 10% VAT, ++ = subject to 10% VAT and 10% service charge

Weekend Japanese Gastronomic Buffet at Manyo

Imperial Palace Seoul Sashimi, sushi, robatayaki—if these words get your taste buds tingling, you are in for a treat. The weekend gastronomic buffet at the Imperial Palace Seoul’s Japanese restaurant Manyo offers a wide variety of Japanese dishes in an exquisitely designed space reminiscent of an Edo period garden. Each customer gets one glass of wine along with unlimited beer, soda, and (only in the month of March) sake. Lunch 12 – 3 pm (W95,000), dinner 6 – 10 pm (W110,000). imperialpalace.co.kr 02-3440-8000

End the Week with Free-Flowing Wine and Jazz Marriott Courtyard Head to the MoMo Café’s Vineyard @ Courtyard wine buffet to end your week on the right note. Fridays from 6 to 9 pm feature live jazz and free-flowing wine from your choice of eight select vintages. The admission (W40,000++ for gentlemen and W30,000++ for ladies) also includes one 200ml bottle of Perrier sparkling water per person, bread sticks, potato gratin, sausages, chicken wings, salmon, cheese, and fruit and dessert plates. courtyardseoul.com 02-2638-3081

Sake Zen Now Available at W Hotel’s Liquid Bar

W Seoul Walkerhill Stylish sake bar Liquid at the W Seoul Walkerhill is the only place in Korea to find Zen, a boutique sake (400ml, W80,000). Produced in Japan’s Iwate Prefecture, the sake has a mild aroma but an intense taste. In addition to Zen, there are many other sakes, sake cocktails, and Japanese beers to be found at premium lounge bar Liquid, located inside Japanese restaurant Namu. whotels.com 02-2022-0222

A Perfect Package for Jeju Flower Watchers Hyatt Regency Jeju Hoping to take your family on a trip to Jeju this spring to enjoy the blooming cherry and apricot blossoms? The Spring Cartel Package, available at the Hyatt Regency Jeju from March 1st through May 31st, offers an affordable way to do just that. In addition to a night in a Mountain View room and breakfast for two at the terrace Café, guests are entitled to one day’s free use of a sedan, a coupon book with discounts for local tourist attractions, and a tourist map. Rates start at W204,000++. jeju.regency.hyatt.kr 064-733-1234

Sweet Strawberries Star in Dessert Promotion

InterContinental Seoul COEX From now until April 22nd, the Lobby Lounge at the InterContinental Seoul COEX will be offering a spring-themed strawberry dessert buffet featuring a variety of treats made with the fruit including cakes, puddings, and chocolates. The buffet is available from 11:30 am to 3 pm each Friday, Saturday, and Sunday and costs W28,000++ (including coffee and tea). Guests can also stop by at any time for strawberry mojitos, strawberry ginseng juice, and other strawberry-based beverages. iccoex.com 02-3430-8603 10 Magazine March 2012 | 31

Expat News M a rch 2012

U.S. Embassy Organizes Q&A Session on Life in Korea If you’re struggling to navigate the Korean workplace, deal with culture shock, get legal help, or find resources to aid in your daily life, this free Q&A session may have some answers. On Sunday, March 11th, at 3 pm, staff from the U.S. Embassy will be inviting English teachers, international students, and businesspeople to get together

to ask questions and share experiences about their time in the ROK. Psychotherapists from Adaptable Human Solutions will also be present to talk about trends in the community and native English-speaking psychological services available in Seoul. The event will be held at Vatos Urban Tacos in Itaewon, which will be offering W10,000 specials including tacos and quesadillas. Let the embassy staff know you’re planning to attend by sending an email to Seoul_ACS@state.gov.

Kangbuk Samsung International Clinic Welcomes Foreigners Foreigners in Korea now have another option for their medical needs. The staff at the newly opened Kangbuk Samsung International Clinic are all fluent in English and Chinese, and Japanese and Russian interpreters are also available. The clinic is right in the middle of Seoul near City Hall, convenient for downtown workers. The International Clinic shares facilities with the Kangbuk Samsung Total Health Care Center, the largest in Korea. Patients at the clinic can expect the highest level of medical care, with state-of-the-art medical technology such as MRI, MDCT and PET-CT and over 40 specialists and 200 medical assistants. At the Experts Clinic, patients can receive treatment for colon and rectal disease, breast and thyroid disease, diabetes, chronic fatigue and stress, and cardiovascular disease. Services at the International Clinic include consultations, physical examinations, immunizations, and screening tests. Open weekdays 8 am – 5 pm. international.kbsmc.co.kr 02-2001-5100

Seoul Baseball League Takes Swing at Second Season Seoul’s only predominantly foreign baseball league will take the field for its second season starting April 7th. It started last season with four and then six teams, and now it has expanded to eight. The league is made up of teams sponsored by Itaewon bars Dillinger’s, Sam Ryan’s, The Wolfhound, Rocky Mountain Tavern, Sin Bin, and Roofers, as well as two club teams. It’s not all sweat and strike outs, though. “We play hard and party hard,” said SBL commissioner Ryan Burda. “Each team really bonded, and the SBL as a whole would get together every Saturday night and socialize at different sponsored bars.” Hungry homerun heroes can also try craft beers by Magpie Brewing and tacos from the Three Kings Truck, both present at league games. Registration is due March 14th. For more information, join the Seoul Baseball League on Facebook or send an email to Seoul_Baseball_League@yahoo.com.

Luxury Ventura Watches Now Available in South Korea

Luxury watch brand Ventura has opened up shop in Korea to show residents the appeal of a signature timepiece. Produced in Switzerland under the direction of founder Pierre Nobs, the brand is recognized as the creator of the world’s first ever automatic digital watch and many other innovative watch technologies. One of their more notable inventions is the Spark MGS (Micro Generated System), introduced in early 2011, a watch that generates electrical energy from the wearer’s wrist movements. The watch’s design is just as ingenious as its technology. The axis of the movement and the MGS are separated and the latter part is tilted by 180 degrees, making the beautiful mechanism visible to the owner – not to mention jealous friends. For this and other avant-garde models, visit Corso Como in Apgujeong or venturawatch.co.kr. For more information, contact Frederic Weber at fweber@luxenbliss.com.

Korean “Love Letter” Opera Woos Expats with Discounts, Subtitles While many Korean theatre productions are hard for expats to appreciate because of the glaring language gap, original opera Yeonseo Part II (연서, Love Letter) shows Seoul working hard to make Korean performances more accessible for 32 | 10 Magazine March 2012

Edited by J essica Lee and dav i d carru t h

Learning the Beat of a Different Drum You’ve tried the food and spoken the language – but what about the music? These classes for international residents are the perfect chance to learn some traditional Korean tunes. Held at the National Folk Museum of Korea located inside Gyeongbokgung Palace, the 8-session course shows participants how to play the janggu (장구), the hourglass-shaped Korean drum that is used in samulnori (사물놀 이) and other Korean musical genres. At the end of May, participants will get to take part in a final performance in the museum auditorium. Tuition is free, the museum provides instruments and costumes, and the courses are taught in English. International residents of all ages and genders are welcome to attend. To apply, send an email to Yeeyeon Hwang at minbakedu@gmail.com by March 23rd. 02-3704-3104

Wireless Zone Provides English-Friendly Mobile Service Expats in the market for a phone can find great English-language service at Wireless Zone, part of a chain of independent mobile phone providers in Korea. The experienced, friendly staff are dedicated to helping Korea’s international community obtain the highest quality phone service – and all in English. Services for incoming expats i n c l u d e s e t ti n g u p m o b il e p h o n e s with Korea’s major telecoms (SK, KT and LG telecom) and providing local pre-paid calling cards and international calling cards. For expats about to leave Korea, there are excellent deals on Verizon and T-Mobile phones and H20 SIM cards that connect to the AT&T network. Wireless Zone is located near Indigo across from Kobawoo Supermarket in Haebangchon (02-797-7609). Other locations in the chain are Celltowns near Gangnam Station (02-501-5399) and Mobile World in Songtan near Osan Air Force base (031-667-0165).

English speakers. From March 15th through 18th, the Sejong Center for the Performing Arts located in downtown Seoul will be presenting the second part of Yeonseo, which depicts lovers Dosil and Areuk trying to overcome the obstacles that separate them. On the very day they had planned to get married, Dosil’s family is accused of treachery, interrupting the festivities and requiring Dosil to become a gisaeng (Korean geisha). Tickets for the performance cost from W10,000 to W70,000, but a 20% discount is available for foreigners with a valid passport or alien registration card. English subtitles make it easy to follow the story. sejongpac.or.kr 02-399-1114 10 Magazine March 2012 | 33

Gastronomic News Edited by J essica Lee and dav i d carru t h

M a rch 2012

Citibank Korea Celebrates 200th Anniversary with Big Discounts

“The Slopper” Draws Burger Fans to Prost Prost Pub & Grill, which opened at the end of last year on the first floor of Itaewon’s entertainment complex District, continues to expand its menu of pub favorites with new items being added every week. This month, Prost introduces The Slopper, a burger stacked with homemade chili, fresh lettuce, red onions, roasted peppers, and cheese. The Slopper adds yet another selection to a menu featuring over a dozen beers on tap, wings, burgers, pastas, steak and salads. districtprost.com 02-796-6854 Correction In the February issue, we mistakenly referred to “the luxury lounge and nightclub located just below Prost.” In fact, the lounge and nightclub can be found above Prost, and all are part of the District culture complex.

Public Invited to Try Bistro Spirit at the Café des Arts

Eonyang bulgogi and Gwangyang bulgogi at Bulgogi Brothers

To mark the 200th anniversary of Citigroup, Citibank Korea is launching a nine-week promotion starting on March 9th. Citicard holders will receive a 50% discount or a free dish during weekday evenings at outstanding restaurants selected from the Citicard Premium Dining roster. There are four featured restaurants in March. Buffet restaurant Oriox will offer a 50% discount on one person’s food orders from March 5th to 9th. Pasta restaurant Solemio will serve up pizza at 50% off from March 12th to 16th. Pork cutlet restaurant Saboten will dish out sirloin katsu free of charge with an order of two or more servings of donkatsu from March 19th to 23rd. Finally, Korean BBQ restaurant Bulgogi Brothers is providing one serving of Eonyang bulgogi (언 양불고기) and Gwangyang bulgogi (광양불 고기) at half off from March 26th to 30th. Diners can also look forward to great deals at restaurants including Pizza Hill and Mong Jung Heon in April. citibank.co.kr 02-2004-1004

34 10 Magazine March 2012

Bistro-style French restaurant Café des Arts, located inside the Institute Français near Seoul Station, reopened in early February in partnership with Itaewon restaurant Le Saint-Ex, a pioneer of French bistro culture in Korea. Previously, the restaurant was used exclusively by the Institute Français staff and associates as a cafeteria. This time around, it will be advertised to the public. The newly renovated restaurant is drawing on the expertise of Chef Nicolas Bouynet from Le Saint-Ex to offer its guests authentic French cuisine along with “art de vivre,” the uniquely French way of life. Enjoy the panoramic view from the

18th floor while savoring French-style sandwiches, crepes, light salads, seasonal specials, French wine and homemade desserts. france.or.kr 02-317-8505

Peroni on Tap at Limited Locations in Seoul

Johnnie Walker’s Latest Goes Platinum

Seoul tapsters may soon be adding another option to their list of draf t beers. Premium Italian beer Peroni Nastro A zzurro has been available in bottled form in Korea since June of last year, and Koreans’ enthusiastic response t o t h e b e e r e n c o u raged the company to launch Peroni draft here as well. The soft launch has already begun, with the beer on sale at five outlets including Between in Itaewon, Woo Bar at the W Hotel, and Ristorante 7 in Garosugil. When the official launch occurs in May, the number of distributing establishments will increase to 15. Currently, Peroni draft is only sold in 10 countries worldwide, with South Korea being the second in Asia after Hong Kong.

Red, black, green, gold, blue – and now platinum. Johnnie Walker Platinum Label, the latest edition from the famous Scotch whisky brand, is a premium whisky that boasts perfect blending with a delicate smoky flavor and clean swallow. Of course, with Johnnie Walker the bottle itself is nearly as important as the contents, and the Platinum bottle adds new subtle elements to Johnnie Walker’s signature design, the square bottle with a tilted label. The glass at the bottom has been made thicker to express the drink’s dignity, while the shoulder of the bottle has a sophisticated sleek design to represent the pride the company takes in its quality. The whisky is available at stores in 500 ml and 750 ml bottles. johnniewalker.com

Wor ds by Dav i d Carru t h, shots by K at h y Li m

10 gets you the latest info on new restaurants, lounges, and other hot establishments in Seoul’s Itaewon district.

Ways of Seeing

El Grecos

Café and Art Space

There are different ways of seeing the world, and different ways of making use of this cafécum-diner-cum-cultural hot spot. Order a cup of coffee, order a bowl of tomato chicken stew, or check out the art on display. Recommended lasagna B1, 683-134 Hannam-dong thesuninjang.com 02-749-5174

Greek/Mediterranean

For those times when you’re walking down Gyeongnidan road and you get a hankering for a gyro. The Australian owner, inspired by his travels in Greece, dishes out authentic pork gyros with flatbread and tzatziki. Recommended pork gyros 273-11 Itaewon-dong 010-7916-8878

Paninos

Panini & Bruschetta

Dominic

Classic Italian sandwiches and appetizers are served up at reasonable prices, with the caveat that you have to pick up your own sandwich from the counter. But when you sink your teeth into the all-in-one panini, heaping with beef, smoked ham, and three kinds of cheese, you probably won’t mind. Recommended all-in-one Panini 119-28 Itaewon-dong 02-794-0034

Mi Casa

Homestyle American dining

A recent arrival to the Commes Les Garcons area near Hangangjin Stn., Dominic claims to deliver American homestyle dining. The finished product, however, with meticulous décor, a stunning view, and premium steak, is something a bit fancier than that. Recommended steak 683-133 Hannam-dong 02-790-7588

Spanish/Wine

There’s a dining area on the 1st floor, but most customers will be heading straight for the 2nd floor. The wine bar here features an Enomatic – a digital wine dispenser that gives you access to 40 kinds of wine by the glass. Now you don’t have to order a whole bottle to try that premium wine. Recommended dozens of wine by the glass 119-21 Itaewon-dong 02-790-0063 10 Magazine March 2012 | 35

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Lisa Ono in Concert March 3rd - 4th Mention bossa nova, and the usual names you might hear are Antônio Carlos Jobim, João Donato, and Stan Getz. But in Japan, fans of the Brazilian genre are just as likely to talk about Lisa Ono. Born in São Paulo, Lisa spent her early childhood in Brazil just as bossa nova was starting to emerge as a separate genre. After returning to Japan, she started playing guitar and singing and put out her first album in 1989. Continued on page 49.

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Dancing Queen Directed by Lee Seok-hoon

Movies I’m always glad to see Hwang Jeongmin up on the silver screen, so it was with a happy heart that I two-stepped into the cinema to spend some time with Dancing Queen. Hwang stars as an honest lawyer who finds himself swept up in the Seoul Mayoral Elections, with a chance to rise to power and perhaps help the whole of Seoul. His wife (played by K-pop diva Um Junghwa) is bored with life as a stay-at-home mum and decides to follow her dreams and become the pop star she always wanted to be. Unsurprisingly, things don’t work out quite how they expect. I would have loved Dancing Queen to waltz off as my favorite film of the year, but this awkward mishmash of comedy and drama never sets the screen alight. The two plots of mayoral election and the search for stardom seem to have been cack-handedly slammed together to produce a sometimes entertaining, but often underwhelming experience. Hwang Jeong-min deserves better than this sort of forgettable comedy and Um Jung-hwa should also get credit for a decent performance in this sub-par film. Sadly, the efforts of the two leads cannot overcome the poor writing and overindulgent editing that left me feeling as if I’d seen a f uneral march rather than a dance spectacular. There are many movies that make me want to tap my t oe s , but D a n cing Queen certainly isn’t one of them. 38 | 10 Magazine March 2012

by Pa u l M at t he w s

Happy Feet Two Directed by George Miller Recently I’ve been watching the BBC’s Frozen Planet and MBC’s Tears of the Antarctic, so perhaps I’m just in the mood for icy animations, but Happy Feet Two came as a very pleasant surprise. Following on from the first film we see Mumble (Elijah Wood) and Gloria (Pink) doing their best to raise their son Erik right. All is not well at the South Pole. After an iceberg shifts, trapping the entire colony of penguins, it’s up to Mumble, Erik and some of their friends to save the day. The plot of Happy Feet Two is a little messy and drawn out, but fortunately there are plenty of laughs and exciting adventures along the way. The animals are charming, the voice acting is superb and some of the landscapes are breathtakingly beautiful. Special mention must go to Bill and Will the Krill (Matt Damon and Brad Pitt) and Sven the incredible flying penguin (Hank Azaria) for providing some of the funniest scenes in the film. If you go into Happy Feet Two with an open heart and a sense of fun, you can look past the messiness and find something here that really does make you happy.

Journey 2: The Mysterious Island Directed by George Miller

If you’re a Jules Verne fan, then the prospect of seeing more of his ideas and stories on the big screen seems like a good idea, until you remember 2008’s Journey to the Center of the Earth. Its sequel, Journey 2, succeeds in crushing Verne fans’ dreams a little bit more. Using Verne’s novel The Mysterious Island as its basis, Journey 2 takes us on an adventure to a strange and magical place where Dwayne Johnson overacts, Luis Guzman shows he doesn’t have a knack for physical comedy and Michael Caine proves he will do any old rubbish if the check is big enough. We’re treated to giant lizards and insects, tiny elephants and a glimpse of Atlantis, alongside some pretty nifty ukulele playing from Johnson himself, but the film never excites. This turgid, clumsy piece of “family entertainment” deserves nothing but scorn and is most definitely a waste of your money. Stay away from this boring non-adventure and go read Verne’s books instead. A much more valuable and exciting use of your time.

NATIONWIDE CALENDAR New This Month Power Rangers: Miracle Force Japan. Action. Yudai Chiba, Rika Satoh; dir. Takao Nagaishi.

Dates are subject to change.

March 1st

18 19 (Eighteen, Nineteen) Romance/Drama. Korea. Yoo Yeon-suk, Baek Jin-hee; dir. Bae Gwang-soo.

Untouchables France. Comedy/Drama. Francois Cluzet, Omar Sy; dir. Olivier Nakache.

March 22nd

March 1st

Romance Joe 로맨스 조 Korea. Drama. Kim Yeong-pil, Shin Dong-mi; dir. Lee Gwang-guk.

NATIONWIDE

Set Up USA. Action/Crime/ Thriller. Bruce Willis, Jenna Dewan; dir. Mike Gunther.

March 7th

Planet of Snail 달팽이의 별 Korea. Documentary. Cho Young-chan, Kim Soon-ho; dir. Lee Seong-joon.

March 22nd

An Introduction to Architecture 건축학개론 Korea. Romance/Drama. Um Tae-woong, Han Ga-in; dir. Lee Yong-joo.

TBA

March 8th

Train 화차 Korea. Mystery. Lee Sun-kyun, Kim Min-hee; dir. Byun Young-joo.

TBA

John Carter USA. SF/ Action. Taylor Kitsch, Lynn Collins; dir. Andrew Stanton.

March 8th

Stanley’s Tiffin Box India. Drama. Partho A. Gupte; dir. Amole Gupte.

March 8th

Contraband USA/UK. Thriller/ Mystery. Mark Wahlberg, Kate Beckinsale; dir. Baltasar Kormakur.

TBA

Chronicle USA/UK. Drama/SF/Action/Thriller. Dane DeHaan, Alex Russell; dir. Josh Trank.

March 15th

Gabi 가비 Korea. Mystery/ Drama. Joo Jin-mo, Kim So-yeon; dir. Jang Yoon-hyun.

March 15th

Fighting! Family 화이팅 패밀리 Korea. Drama. Kim Ji-young, Sun Woo-sun; dir. Kim Sung-ho.

March 15th

The Raven USA. Thriller/Mystery. John Cusack, Luke Evans; dir. James McTeigue.

TBA

Television

Childlike Innocence Draws Viewers to Star Junior Show

Star Junior Show has managed to gain a loyal Saturday night following by avoiding the sexual content favored by other variety shows in favor of family fun and innocent gags. It seems like the more variety shows we see on TV, the fewer shows are available for families to watch together. Sometimes even music shows can be too embarrassing to watch with one’s kids because of the young idols doing erotic dance moves and wearing skirts that are too short and too tight. This is why Star Junior Show Bungeoppang (스타 쥬니어쇼 붕어빵) continues to see its viewer ratings rise despite intense competition with other

by S oy eo n K im b erly Yoo n

variety shows. Star Junior Show is basically a blend of talk show and quiz show that features celebrities and their children who share comic episodes from their home life. The show has a variety of segments, but it always begins by introducing topics drawn from a national survey of 1,000 children who were asked to write about the strange things that adults do. By focusing on the naivety and candidness of kids, the show aims to narrow the generation gap between parents and their children. The young guests on the show reveal their true feelings about their parents’ actions at home, which often do not coincide with their celebrity images. In past shows, the three daughters of anchor Chan Min-park once claimed their father plays favorites, while the son of comedian Jo Hyeryeon shared his opinion about his mom’s frequent plastic surgery. Nevertheless, most viewers’ favorite part of the show is the Family Speed Quiz, during which each parent and child take turns explaining the word written on the board, which only one is able to see. The duo with the best teamwork not only get bragging rights, but also win a prize at the end. Viewers burst into laughter as children get extremely eager to win and struggle to explain difficult ideas. One reason why Star Junior Show has enjoyed steady success is that it has a consistent number of hard-core fans who turn on the TV each Saturday to see the show. Star Junior Show may not always offer fresh concepts, but it does remind us of the importance of connecting with our family and the different ways in which adults and children view the world. You and your family can watch this show on Saturday at 5:15 pm on SBS. 10 Magazine March 2012 | 39

Hwanangom

(화난곰, Angry Bear) Self-titled

Self-produced It seems as though the local expat groups just keep on upping the ante with every new release that hits the shelves these days. Angry Bear, a true indie quartet who have recently managed to show their prowess at a number of live performances – and garner some critical acclaim – have finally solidified their efforts with a great new CD. Taking a firm hold on the elements that ensure a successful foray into the trenches of pure, original, indie rock, Hwanangom lays out quintessential R&R for aficionados of Korea-based expat music. While the listener may at times encounter influences ranging from Mute Math to Jet Black Berries, this is definitely a powerfully self-honed outing, best appreciated when the vocals step and drive the tunes, most notably on “Na Ha No, No Mind” (good, rollicking rock…), “Surely Not,” and the closer “Rome”. Great guitar abounds and the writing and production are rock solid. Just my opinion, but this is the best expat-rock effort to emerge yet!

High Places

Original Colors Thrill Jockey

Another hard-to ignore alter native release from one of the edgier alternative labels; kind of hard to pigeonhole, b u t ve r y e a s y t o take to. Basically a talented duo from L.A., Rob Barber and Mary Pearson use their off beat acumen on their 4th album to blend crunchy, choppy trip-hop/trance beats with an almost electro-folk and psychedelically-melodic sound layering effect to present the listener with a mélange of aural challenges. “Year Off” opens the album with a nice propulsive intro, while “The Pull” draws in listeners with a trip-hop reworking of a bossa nova beat. Off-centre vocals power an incessant rhythmic exploration on “Sonora” (somewhat reminiscent of bands like Swamp Children or Kalima), and tunes like “Dry Lake” and “Altos Lugares” re-invigorate a Groove Armada-ish vibe. This is a pretty hip, contemporary release that adds a lively spark to the current electro-rock music scene. by M i c h a e l B e rry

Books

It’s in the Blood My teenage daughter reads at a grade or two below level. That’s unusual fluency, as she’s been in Japanese or Korean language schools for her formal education, but we spend time reading together. Right now we’re working on The Saga of Darren Shan (2000 – 2006) by Darren Shan, a series of 12 books averaging 200 pages each. The reading level seems to be about the right blend of familiar and unfamiliar words, familiar enough to keep the plot going, and unfamiliar enough so that her vocabulary is expanded a bit. This key to acquiring competency in English involves having the student so consumed in the narrative that grammar and vocabulary are acquired in proper context. As a pedagogue, there seems to be no substit ute for it, as the method used in the schools here, of memorizing vocabular y lists and testtaking algor ith ms, yields dysfunctional results. While it may seem counterintuitive 40 | 10 Magazine March 2012

Brian Joo ReBorn Part. 1

Jellyfish Entertainment While most of Brian Joo’s solo work has rested on the singer’s i m p e c c a bl e s k i l l s a s a vo c a l i s t , h i s most recent release illustrates how effective the art of compromise can be. No stranger to collaboration, Brian’s latest mini-album ReBorn Part.1 has the young Korean-American teaming up with artists as diverse as Jay Park and Jade Valerie for a jack-of-all-trades production of pop and R&B. The album’s highlight “Can’t Stop” blends cathartic crooning with a whimsical confession while the aggressive electro of “Don’t Tell Me I’m Wrong” has Brian on the defensive against a formidable female opponent. English versions illustrate the singer’s knack for turning sometimescorny Brit-pop into sincere reflections on unrequited love. While it’s not the most original material, Brian brings a guileless spirit and remarkable emotion to the narratives that will hopefully continue in part by A n n a Or z e l two. by J o h n M ensing

from the point of view of test scores, finding a seductive narrative is, in fact, essential. Since there’s no accounting for personal taste, I’ve chosen to highlight vampire books here because they have a wide appeal, although they’re not the only narratives available. I suspect vampire stories have religious appeal, and that may be similar to the appeal which drew early Christians to the fold: the belief Christ rose from death. Vampires are not always bad in this literature. For example, in Vampire Academy by Richelle Mead (2007 - 2010), a series of six books that comes in at about 300 pages for each volume, some vampires are rather good. We listened to these on audiobook, and have started on Bloodlines (2011), a spin-

off series. The protagonist here is a teenage girl (Darren’s chronicle concerns a teenage boy) and she experiences all the angst, crushes, and fashion preoccupations of a normal teenager. Like most of the Young Adult literature I have read, it is incredibly vibrant and transformative, morally instructive without being overbearing. Current YA fiction is relevant not only to parents trying to inspire their children, but also to EFL learners who need to find material to read (aka narratives to lose themselves in) at their vocabulary level. For adult readers, The Historian by Elizabeth Kostava (2005, 816 pages) is a multigenerational account of a search for Dracula, with a significant portion of what could accurately be termed an historical novel (despite the vampire theme) taking place in the Near East. Kostava recounts the fall of Constantinople, and depicts Christendom and the Islamic world before and after the reformation and the crusades. Like its YA counterparts, the vampire trope here maintains suspense while educating the reader in what might otherwise be a dull subject.

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For those dissatisfied with the highly portable but underpowered netbook, the robust ultrabook is an attractive option. First there were UMPCs (ultra-mobile personal computers), then netbooks (and then the Apple MacBook Air) that shrunk our computing down to screens of about 10 inches and made carrying a laptop around a little easier on the back. The problem with the like of the popular Asus eee PC and the MSI Wind was that netbooks were woefully underpowered, sporting little more than an Intel Atom processor and 1GB of RAM. In addition, the low battery life had users hunting for the power outlet at Starbucks at lunch time just to get through the day. This year’s CES (Consumer Electronics Show) in Las Vegas, Nevada, saw the arrival of the “ultrabook” in response to the pitfalls we have all experienced with mobile computing. Invented by processor maker Intel, the ultrabook standard requires manufacturers to implement high-end processors, large amounts of RAM, good graphics and in many cases high-volume solid state hard drives in a light, mobile laptop body. Importantly Intel also mandates that Ultrabooks be sold at “mainstream prices” - usually around the $999 price point. At CES, there were a handful of models on display that surprised the tech pundits. Taiwanese manufact urer Acer is touting the world’s thinnest ultrabook, measuring only 15mm thick. It touts a thunderbolt port allowing for high bit rate data transfer and connection of accessories and all its USB ports hide behind a motorized back cover. Motorized! Very cool. The price of the Acer S-5 is yet to be announced. Korean manufacturers are also in on the game. LG has the Z330 and Z430. At 13 inches the Z330 has a core i7 processor, 13-inch HD display and 128GB SSD (solid state drive). (Its brushed aluminum finish might have you mistaking it for an Apple MacBook Air, too!) The Z430 at 14 inches is similarly loaded and both are the most expensive ultrabooks in the field, both selling for over $1500. Finally, Samsung’s Series 5 Ultrabooks are probably the pick of the litter. For $899, the Series 5 13-inch packs in a 500GB Hard Drive as well as a 16GB SSD and 4GB of RAM. It runs on a new Intel core i5 processor with USB 3.0 and a 13-inch screen. The 14-inch version carries a 1TB hard drive! It can also max out at 8GB of RAM, meaning those systemintensive tasks using Photoshop and video editing software are all quite easily done while you are on the road. With a purported 6.4 hours of battery life, you’ll be able to enjoy your coffee in Starbucks rather than hunting around for that power outlet!

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for US soldiers and English teachers Coolpet Building, 35-3 Samseong-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 02-3443-8275 www.dr-pet.co.kr 10 Magazine March 2012 | 41

Food Review

A Journey Through Europe at the Edge of Seoul

Words by M icha e l Joh n ston e

shots by M icha e l J o h n s to n e and J o e M c Ph e rs o n

서울 SEOUL

long the city’s old fortress wall in the refreshingly peaceful neighborhood of Seongbuk-dong, Le Pavillon is a fresh face. Recently opened for business, the restaurant is part of a trinity of culinary options. The second and third floors host Le Pavillon, while the lower floor features Le Gourmet, a brunch-style café, and an aromatic bakery that basks in the smell of freshly baked specialty breads. Despite the French moniker, Le Pavillon’s owner and executive chef Andrea Jeong specializes in Italian, a fact reflected in his chosen Western name. Yet his affinity and skill with dishes of other nationalities easily crosses borders and makes dining at Le Pavillon akin to a relaxing train journey across Europe with first class tickets. Chef Jeong’s diners are always treated with a simple yet elegant hors d’oeuvre to start their meal, which is chosen by the chef daily. An excellent example of his proclivity for Italian fare would be his take on melanzane parmigiano, a layered eggplant dish with a subtle tomato sauce, topped with freshly shredded parmesan cheese. A hot bowl of chicken and bean soup with chickpeas followed to warm the belly for that which was to come. A word of warning: selecting the main course at Le Pavillon can be difficult. There are only a handful of dishes to choose from, but with good reason. These are Chef Jeong’s masterpieces, handpicked and meticulously prepared. The Agnello, a rack of lamb with asparagus, received a general consensus amongst our table as the star dish, paired with a delicate gravy that was careful not to overpower the rich flavors of the meat. A stunning but modest side of mashed sweet potatoes complemented the course perfectly. The Costata Manzo, an Australian Wagyu steak, also stands among giants as a dish that lends credibility to the renowned status of this particular variety of cattle. Although several diners at our table were initially skeptical of cow pampering being reflected in taste, all were immediately converted after experiencing steak in its finest form: tenderness that scoffs at the very notion of a steak knife. Le Pavillon’s staff is hospitable and attentive to the highest degree of professionalism, and they are well acquainted with the dishes they serve. Le Pavillon offers a dining experience that transcends geography and celebrates 10 Magazine reimburses European dining in a manner that is a reviewers for their meals and never notifies restaurants fine tribute to simplicity, elegance and that they will be reviewed. the aspiration to achieve perfection. English menu, English-speaking staff Not permitted Happily prepared upon request No Recommended but not required main courses from W26,000 - W55,000 Stellar service, passionate chef A bit far from after-dinner entertainment and subway 42 | 10 Magazine March 2012

02-741-1178 Lunch: 12 – 3 pm, Dinner: 6 – 10 pm, closed on Monday woodnbrick.com 97-21 Seongbuk-dong, Seongbuk-gu, Seoul Take line 4 to Hansung University Station, exit 5. Walk for about 15 minutes to find the restaurant on the right hand side of the road, just past Seongbuk Elementary School.

FOODIE FINDS

When yearning for the French connection, consider taking a detour to Sinchon and paying a visit to La Celtique. Chef Charles Duval’s modest crêperie pays tribute to the versatile simplicity of one of France’s most recognizable culinary exports. The Saucisse is one of Chef Duval’s recommendations, and rightfully so. He makes the sausage by hand, and it shows: meaty, well-spiced and free of the gristle and filler of so many supermarket sausages. La Fondue aux Poireaux, a chicken crêpe, comes with a fresh, invigorating leek sauce. Dessert offerings are beautifully prepared and not overly sweet, a satisfying way to end a visit to a small piece of France in the heart of Seoul. Sinchon Stn. (line 2, ex. 3). Right at U-Plex intersection. Before Starbucks on the second floor. 02-312-7774 Wor ds and shot by M ic h a e l Joh n st on e

HBC’s Latest Burger Tooth Satisfier

서울 SEOUL

Vive La Celtique

Found during a casual stroll and lured in by a unique menu, M Burger appeared worthy of the day’s lunch. After glancing at the menu my mind was set: I would have the Juicy Lucy, a Minneapolis staple. The burger is cooked with the cheese on the inside and when I bit into it, it was the juiciest burger I ever had. With the addition of the caramelized onions and special bun, it’s safe to say that I’ll be back. I’m pretty sure the M stands for “mashisoyo” (맛있어요, Korean for “delicious”), since their burgers could satisfy even the Hamburglar’s cravings. Noksapyeong Station (line 3, ex. 2). 02-797-2787 Wor ds and shot by Troy Z i tz e l sb e rg e r

힐링핸즈

My House Is Your Tapas Bar Bull fighting, salsa dancing, wine and tapas. Thankfully, two of these urges can now be satisfied at Mi Casa’s second wine bar in Itaewon. Their motto is “Mi Casa es tu casa,” (translating to “my house is your house”), and the warmth of the phrase also applies to the restaurant’s atmosphere, tapas, and the superb quality of the wine. Whether you’re a rookie taking your first sip or a seasoned veteran who’s been around the block, their broad selection is sure to satisfy. When it comes to the tapas, the Croquetas del Mar and Gambas al Ajillo offer tastes of Ibiza right here in Seoul. Feel free to hang up your red cape at the door. micasa.kr 02-546-3979 Wor ds and shot by Troy Z i tz e l sb e rg e r

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10 Magazine March 2012 | 43

SEOUL CALENDAR

The City of Art New York 1945-2000 Through March 11th

Art

서울 SEOUL

The 63 Building exhibition running through March 11, titled The City of Art: New York 1945 - 2000, features 64 pieces by 14 artists from postWorld War II New York, and all in a gallery on the 60th floor of the iconic 63 Building in Yeouido. The 14-name roster, with pop art giants like Warhol and Lichtenstein to decorate it, is as respectable as it is impressive. The pieces are equally reliable; for example, for Warhol you get his Marilyn prints, rather than his early shoe sketches or lewd screen tests. The pieces are all loans from local collections, which perhaps explains the modest size. Fans of specific artists or movements will potentially be disappointed; James Rosenquist is represented by a single lithograph and Keith Haring by a few cocktail napkin-sized prints. But what is there is enjoyable. The abstract expressionist section misses the big names but has instead Joan Mitchell’s River scribbles and Frank Stella’s more engaging Wave paintings. George Segal’s Gazing Woman and Robert Motherwell’s St. Michael II are witty and diverting, and there is a series of easily digestible pieces by Tom Wesselmann and Jim Dine. The entire postmodernism section consists primarily of pieces from Robert Longo’s Men in the Cities series, which some viewers might recognize from American Psycho, albeit housed in a far smaller and dimmer space than

44 | 10 Magazine March 2012

Still Life with Liz © Estate of Tom Wesselmann / SACK, Seoul / VAGA, NY; Gazing Woman, from an American Portrait, 1776-1976 © The George and Helen Segal Foundation

Patrick Bateman’s living room. But even if you found the exhibition itself to be too brief, there is still something to be said for the gallery space itself. The cityscape, visible through the ceiling-to-floor windows dominating half the walls, is spectacular, especially at night. Guests can also use the coin-operated binoculars or seat themselves on a plastic platform called the Thrill Deck, and many of them do, breezing through the gallery to linger for the view. Admission is W12,000. Tickets can be purchased at the ticket desk of the 63 Building on Level B1. Nearby subway stations are Daebang (line 1, ex. 6) and Yeouinaru (line 5, ex. 4), both about a ten-minute walk away. 10 am - 10 pm. 63skyart.co.kr 02-789-5663 Wor ds by V iol et K i m

e di tor’ s p ick

March 5th – 11th

서울 SEOUL

Seoul Fashion Week

Fashion

The Seoul Fashion Week Fall/Winter Season is about to roll around, and fashion and media representatives will be piling into Gangnam’s Seoul Trade Exhibition Center venue to view the collections. Some designers to watch include Lie Sang Bong and MVIO. Seoul Fashion Week is divided into four categories: Seoul Collection, Generation Next, Fashion Take-Off, and Fashion Fair. Each category aims to showcase a different aspect of Korean fashion, with Seoul Collection presenting Korea’s star designers, Generation Next featuring the work of up-and-coming Korean designers, Fashion Take-Off giving Korean brands a chance to market themselves internationally, and finally Fashion Fair displaying more than 70 Korean retail brands throughout the week. Seoul Trade Exhibition Center (SETEC) in Daechi-dong. W6,000 – W8,000 per show. seoulfashionweek.org 02-2171-2820 Wor ds and shot by Lu ig i na W e b b

Design & Fashion March 7th - 11th 2012 Seoul Living Design Fair Hosting approximately 200 designers and brands, the fair covers interior, furniture, decorations and lifestyle. COEX Hall A. 10:30 am - 7 pm. W10,000 at the door, W5,000 with online pre-registration. livingdesignfair.co.kr 02-2262-7191

Art Ongoing Free Market and Hope Market On weekend afternoons, stop by the playground at Hongdae for some fashionable finds. The Free Market, held every Saturday, focuses on fashion accessories, while the Hope Market on Sundays offers more in the way of arts and crafts. Located close to Hongik Univ. Stn. (line 2) and Sangsu Stn. (line 6). 1 - 6 pm. cafe.daum.net/artmarket, cafe. daum.net/hopemarket Trickeye & Greek Mythology If you like posing for the camera, this exhibit is for you. Become a part of famous scenes from Greek mythology at the Trickeye Museum in Hongdae. 10 am - 6 pm. Adults W13,000, teens/children W11,000. trickeye.com 02-3144-6300 Through March 3rd Chocolate: The Exhibition Learn about the history of chocolate and how it’s made. Seoul Art Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 11 am - 7 pm. W10,000. chocolate2012.com 02-585-9991 Montage A collection of contemporary art work at Gaain Gallery in Pyeongchangdong, Jongno. 11 am - 6 pm. Closed Sun. gaainart.com 02-394-3631

Through March 4th The 1300th Birthday of Saeng Kim Exhibition The Seoul Calligraphy Art Museum (part of the Seoul Art Center) is celebrating famous Silla Dynasty calligrapher Sang Kim’s 1300th birthday by displaying his work and related artifacts. Located near Nambu Bus Terminal Station. 10 am - 7 pm. W5,000 - W7,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Automata Meets the Movie Learn about how the Korean movie industry has developed from the 1970s through the present. Korean Film Archive in Mapo. 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. Free. koreafilm.or.kr 02-3153-2072 Magnum Photo Exhibition: Companions for the Globe Photos by Steve McCurry and seven other photographers show how the lives of AIDS patients have been changed by antiretroviral therapy. Seoul Art Center’s Hangaram Art Museum. 11 am - 7 pm. W10,000. sac.or.kr 02-599-5743 Through March 8th Photo by Photo: A Portrait of Spain Composed of work by 15 artists ranging from the mid-20th century to the present, this exhibition highlights how Spain’s beautiful cities and the people who lived there have changed. Gallery at the Korea Foundation Culture Center near City Hall Stn. (line 2, ex. 9). Closed Sun and holidays. kf.or.kr 02-2151-6500 Through March 9th Michael Wesely “Still Life” Photo Exhibition Germany photographer Michael Wesely’s images show the quiet motion in seeming stillness: fog seen from a hilltop and fading flowers. The Columns Gallery in Itaewon. 11 am - 6 pm. Closed Sunday. columns.co.kr 02-3442-6301

10 Magazine March 2012 | 45

SEOUL CALENDAR

Openrun Nonverbal Performances Lack of Korean ability can be a big stumbling block for plays or musicals performed in the local language, but you will find none of those problems at the following shows. All ongoing, and all non-verbal, these performances are perfect for fans of dance, physical comedy, and exciting music, no matter which language you may speak.

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International Health Insurance Benefit. 46 | 10 Magazine March 2012

B-Boy City in Seoul: Kung B-boy ensemble Gorilla Crew uses breakdance to tell a gripping story. B-Boy Theater Samjin B/D B1 in Hongdae. Wed - Fri 8 pm, Sat 6 pm, Sun and holidays 2 pm. 90 min. Closed Mon & Tue. W50,000. sjbboys.com 02-323-5233 Drawing Show: Hero Art exhibit or performance? The drawing show is as fun to watch as it is hard to classify. Myungbo Art Hall near Chungmuro Stn. (lines 3 & 7, ex. 7). Weekdays 8 pm, Sat 4 & 7 pm, Sun & Holidays 3 & 6 pm. W40,000 - W50,000. drawingtheater.com 02-766-7848 Fanta-stick This show mixes physical comedy with traditional Korean music for lots of laughs. Kyunghyang Newspaper Building near Seodaemun Stn. (line 5, ex. 5). Daily at 8 pm. 80 min. W40,000 - W50,000. fanta-stick.co.kr 02-6401-5959 Jump Two would-be thieves break into a house full of martial arts masters! First performed in 2003, this show combines a comic story with martial arts moves and impressive visuals. Downtown near Jonggak Stn. Mon 8 pm, Tue – Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun 3 & 6 pm. W40,000 – W60,000. hijump.co.kr 02-722-3995 Karma This nonverbal musical tells a classic tale of fate, love and conspiracy between the gods. Karma Theatre. Chungcheongno Stn. (lines 2 & 5, ex.7 & 8). Mon – Fri 8 pm, Sat 3 pm & 7 pm, Sun 3 pm. W44,000 – W77,000. thepatron.aboutmovie.com 02-336-1289 Korea House Performance Head over to the Korea House for two daily performances based on traditional Korean culture. Chungmuro Stn. (lines 3 & 4, ex. 3). Part 1: 6:30 - 7:30 pm, part 2: 8:30 - 9:30 pm. Dinner price starts at W68,200. Performance is W50,000 (30% discount with dinner). kangkoku.or.kr 02-2266-9101 Legend of Flower II This romantic tale of two lovers is back and better than ever with stunning sound effects, tantalizing aromas, holographs, and more. Walkerhill Theater at the Sheraton Grande

Walkerhill. Mon - Sat 4:50 & 7:30 pm. 75 min. W60,000 and up. legendofflower.com 02-455-5000 The Marionette: B-Boy Musical This b-boy musical won the top prize in an international competition. Daehan Saengmyeong 63 Art Hall. 8 pm. Closed Mon & the 1st & 3rd Tue. 70 min. W40,000. 63.co.kr 1661-1063 Miso Chongdong Theater presents Miso, a story of one woman’s encounter with love told through traditional dance, percussion, and music. City Hall Stn. (lines 1, 2). 4 & 8 pm. Closed Mon. 80 min. W30,000 – W50,000. miso.chongdong.com 02-751-1500

Nanta This kitchen percussion extravaganza is the stage show that nearly everyone sees at least once. Three Seoul locations and performances almost daily. W40,000 – W60,000. To find out how to get a big discount on your tickets, see p. 17. nanta.co.kr 02-739-8288 Pan An exciting combination of Korean folk songs, dances, and games. Gwanghwamun Art Hall. Weekdays 8 pm, weekends and holidays at 2 pm. Closed Mon and Tue. 90 min. W30,000 - W50,000. ghmarthall.com 02-722-3416 Performances at National Folk Museum Every weekend, the National Folk Museum presents traditional Korean performances for visitors. Anguk Stn (line 3, ex. 1) Gwanghwamun Stn (line 5, ex. 2). Sat 3 pm. Free. nfm.go.kr 02-3704-3114 Sa-Choom The story of three friends’ coming of age is told through dance. Insadong near Jongno 3-ga Stn. (lines 1, 3, & 5, ex. 5). Mon - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 7:30 pm, Sun 4 pm. 80 min. W25,000 - W50,000. lovedance.co.kr 02-3676-7616 Samcheonggak Premium Lunch Concert “Jami” A premium five-course meal of Korean food with dessert and traditional tea is served as guests enjoy traditional Korean music, dance and vocal performances. Starts March 5th. Samcheonggak in Seongbuk-gu. Free shuttle bus available outside of Euljiro Stn. (line 2, ex. 1). Mon, Wed, Fri 12 pm. W50,000 – W70,000. samcheonggak.or.kr 02-765-3700

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Elisabeth The Musical

서울 SEOUL

Seoul’s definitive original opera

Through May 13th

Theater

First staged in Vienna in 1992 and regarded as the most popular German-language musical ever made, Elisabeth presents viewers with a darkly symbolic portrayal of the famous Austrian empress. The biographical facts of Elisabeth’s life are already surreal enough - her obsession with beauty, her child’s suicide, and her tragic assassination. To this, the musical adds the character Death, a handsome young man with whom Elisabeth falls in love. The musical will be performed in Korean, but a synopsis of the story is easy to find online, allowing you to focus on the stunning music and ravishing action on the stage. Blue Square Samsung Electronics Hall at Hangangjin Stn. (line 6). Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat - Sun 2 & 7 pm. W30,000 - W150,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-6391-6333 Through March 11th The City of Art: New York 1945-2000 Sixty-four pieces by Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein, Keith Haring, and other major contemporary artists who were based in New York. 63 Sky Art Gallery at the 63 Building. Daebang Stn. (line 1, ex. 6). 10 am - 8 pm. W12,000. 63skyart.co.kr 02-789-5663

artwork should be a continuation of what has gone before. The exhibition includes photographs from the 2011 F/W collections of Chanel and Fendi. Daelim Contemporary Art Museum near Gyeongbokgung Stn. (line 3, ex. 3). Tue - Sun 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. W5,000. daelimmuseum.org 02-720-0667

Hello, Mammoth! See a mammoth’s head, ivory tusks, left forepaw, and muscles as they were found in Russia. Special Exhibit Hall at Seoul Sports Complex near Sports Complex Stn. (line 3, ex. 1). Weekdays 10 am – 6:30 pm, weekends 10 am - 7 pm. Closed Mon. mammoth2012.com 02-723-6190

Through March 27th Making As Living Exhibition In memory of the devastation caused in Japan by last year’s earthquake, this exhibition brings together images showing how the country was affected and how the survivors have moved on with their lives. Artsonje Museum near Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex.1). Mon 10 am - 7 pm, Tue - Sun 10 am – 10 pm. Adults W3,000, students W1,500. artsonje.org/asc 02-733-8945

Through March 15th Yann Arthus-Bertrand: The Earth from Above More than 220 photos and video captures by this aerial photographer. Seoul Museum of Art near City Hall Stn. (line 1 & 2, ex. 12). 10 am - 8 pm. seoulmoa. seoul.go.kr 02-2124-8936 Through March 17th Kim Han-yong: Commercial Photography and the Birth of the Consumer Meet the master of Korean advertising photography through his work. The Museum of Photography Seoul located near Mongchontoseong Station (line 8, ex. 2). 10 am - 7 pm. photomuseum.or.kr 02-418-1315 Through March 18th Art & Cook Exhibit See - and taste - art at this exhibit at the Dream Forest Art Center near Miasamgeori Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). 10 am - 6 pm. Children W2,000, adults W3,000. dfac.or.kr 02-2289-5411 Karl Lagerfeld’s “Work in Progress” Photo Exhibition Director of Fendi and Chanel and world-famous fashion designer, Karl Lagerfeld believes that new

Through March 31st Modern Portraits of Beautiful Women Featuring 23 artists’ pictures of beautiful women from Korea, France, and Germany. Space*C Coreana Art and Culture Complex, Apgujeong Stn. (line 3, ex. 3). 10 am - 6 pm. W2,000 - W3,000. spacec.co.kr 02-547-9177 Through April 12th Past Toward Contemporary: Dutch Magic Realism The 71 carefully selected pieces on display introduce visitors to 20th-century European magical realism. Museum of Art near at Seoul National University. snumoa.org 02-880-9504 Through April 14th Jewelry Exhibition This exhibition shows how people from the Joseon Dynasty indicated their class using accessories and jewelry. Space*C Coreana Art and Culture Complex, Apgujeong Stn. (line 3, ex. 3). 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Sun. W2,000 - W3,000. spacec.co.kr 02-547-9177

Love Letter Yeonseo

Chapter 2

with English subtitles

Featuring an outstanding cast, the Seoul Philharmonic Orchestra and the Seoul Metropolitan Chorus The show is expected to be the best opera Korea has ever seen.

20% discount is available for foreigners!

2012.3.15(THU)-18(SUN)

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10 Magazine March 2012 | 47

SEOUL CALENDAR Through April 21st Reflections from Nature: Collection Cahiers d’Artistes Switzerland is reflected in the work of these four artists. SongEun ArtSpace in Cheongdam-dong. 11 am - 7 pm. Closed Sun. Free. songeunartspace.org 02-3448-0100 March 6th - 13th International Drawing Exhibition Domestic and foreign artists’ work will be put on display at the Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). sac.or.kr 02-580-1300

서울 SEOUL

March 17th - April 15th Open Call #1: North Korean Punk Rocker Lee Sung-woong Fictional character Lee Sung-woong explores the gap between fiction and reality in the Korean punk rock scene since its appearance in the 1990s. Artsonje Museum near Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex.1). 11 am – 7 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W1,500. artsonje.org/asc 02-733-8945 March 20th - June 24th Asia: Tales in the Trees Various Asian woodwork donated by Ganeko Gazusike. National Museum of Korea near Ichon Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Tue, Thu, Fri 9 am – 6 pm. Wed, Sat 9 am – 8 pm. Sun 9 am – 7 pm. museum.go.kr 02-2077-9552 March 21st - 27th There Is Nothing Like Australia Pictures whose subject is the nature, culture, people, and festivals of Australia are exhibited at Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). 10 am - 9 pm. Free. sejongpac.or.kr 1544-1887

Theater & Dance Through March 4th Without You: The Musical This one-man musical is based on the behindthe-scenes story of Anthony Rapp, a member of the original cast of Rent. KT&G Sangsang Art Hall near Samsung Stn. Mon - Fri 8 pm. Sat 3 & 7 pm. Sun 3 pm. Closed Mon. W44,000 - W66,000. sangsangarthall.com 1544-1681

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48 | 10 Magazine March 2012

Through March 28th Traditional Korean Dance Concert with Jung Yeon-hee This performance consists of many kinds of Korean traditional dance. Get a close-up view of dancers’ bodies in this intimate theater. Theater Sungkyun near Hyehwa Stn. (line 4). Wed 8 pm. W20,000. cafe.naver.com/sktheater 02-747-5035 March 1st - 4th Giselle: The Ballet Performed by the Korean National Ballet Troupe. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). Thu 3 pm, Fri 8 pm, Sat 3 & 7:30 pm, Sun 3 pm. W10,000 - W100,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 March 2nd - 3rd Stand Up Seoul Presents James Adomian Have a good laugh with one of the finalists from NBC’s Last Comic Standing. Admission includes a free drink and after party. Rocky Mountain Tavern in Itaewon. 10 pm. W30,000. standupseoul@gmail.com 010-8893-8764 March 7th - 8th Baekhaemuik Ossollotaek: The Dance With choreography by Kang Hwa-jeong. Arko Arts Theater near Hyehwa Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). 8 pm. W25,000. arko.or.kr 02-760-4840 March 15th - 17th Opera: A Magic Flute Director Peter Brook’s adaptation of Mozart’s classic opera The Magic Flute. LG Arts Center near Yeoksam Stn. (line 2, ex. 7). Thu, Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 pm. W40,000 - W80,000. lgart.com 02-2005-0114

March 15th - 18th Yeonseo (Love Letter): Korean Original Opera This fantasy tells of two lovers reuniting in the spirit world to fulfill their love. Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). Thu & Fri 7:30 pm, Sat 3 & 7:30 pm, Sun 5 pm. W10,000 - W70,000. sejongpac.or.kr 1544-1887 March 22nd - 23rd Hofesh Shechter Company: Uprising & In Your Rooms Featuring the work of Hofesh Shechter, an award-winning English choreographer. LG Arts Center near Yeoksam Stn. (line 2, ex. 7). lgart.com 02-2005-0114

Concerts Ongoing Korean Music & Dance Experience the beauty of traditional Korean music and dance every Saturday at 4 pm. Umyeondang at the National Gugak Center near Nambu Terminal Station (line 3). W10,000. gugak.go.kr 02-580-3300 March 1st - 4th “Travel Sketch” Concert Series with Breezin’ Breezin’ is one of Korea’s only folk rock bands. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). Thu 3 pm, Fri 7:30 pm, Sat 2:30 & 7 pm, Sun 3 pm. W44,000 - W55,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 March 2nd Philharmonia Hamburg Orchestra Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W30,000 W100,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Taru in Concert In celebration of her new album, Korean artist Taru is holding a concert at the Sangsang Madang Art Space in Hongdae near Sangsu Stn. (line 6, ex. 1). 8 pm. W40,000. sangsangmadang.com 02-330-6200 March 3rd Il Divo Concert Operatic pop masters Il Divo are bringing their international tour to Seoul. The quartet, composed of a French pop singer, an operatic baritone and two classically trained tenors, perform ballads sure to satisfy classical enthusiasts and Simon Cowell alike. Jamsil Indoor Stadium. 7 pm. W99,000 - W220,000. stadium.seoul.go.kr 02-2240-8000 Love Songs by Steve Barakatt Steve Barakatt, famous for his song “Rainbow Bridge,” is bringing his talent to Korea. Seoul Art Center near Nambu Bus Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 7 pm. W30,000 - W100,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 March 3rd - 18th Band Music Festa Korean indie bands Daybreak and Glen Check will be performing unreleased songs. Gangdong Art Center. 6 pm. W20,000 - W30,000. gangdongarts.or.kr 02-440-0500 Seoul Girl’s Collection Korean pop idols 4minute, G.Na, 2AM, Jay Park and more will appear in the Seoul Girl’s Collection concert. SETEC (Seoul Trade Exhibition Center) near Hagyeoul Stn. (line 3, ex. 1). 5 pm. W66,000. setec.or.kr 02-2222-3811 March 5th 6th Flute Festival Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). 7:30 pm. W20,000 - W30,000. sejongpac.or.kr 1544-1887 New Philharmonia Hamburg Orchestra Jangcheon Art Hall near Apgujeong Stn. (line 3, ex. 4 or 5). 7:30 pm. jcah.co.kr 02-2056-5787 March 6th - 11th Jung Tae-chun & Park Eun-ok in

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서울 SEOUL

Lisa Ono in Concert March 3rd - 4th

Concert

Continued from p.37. In the 22 albums she has released since, Lisa has not only helped establish a Japanese fan base for bossa nova but also experimented with numerous other genres in world music. Her most successful attempt was her bossa nova renditions of classic American songs from the 40s and 50s on the 1999 album Dream. It’s Lisa’s experimental side that will be the focus of this concert, as she mixes bossa nova with the French chanson, the Italian canzone, Latin, soul, country, and standard jazz. Songs like “Bésame Mucho,” “The Girl from Ipanema,” and “My Cherie Amour” will give her a chance to show off her mellifluous voice – and enchanting smile. 3/3 Women’s Hall in Yongin at 5 pm, 3/4 Concert Hall at Seoul Arts Center at 5 pm. W40,000 - W150,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-599-5743 Concert KT & G Sangsang Art Hall near Samsung Stn. (line 2, ex. 2). Mon - Thu 8 pm, Sat & Sun 6 pm. W66,000. sangsangarthall.com 02-3404-4311 March 7th Insiem Philharmonic Ochestra Seoul Art Center near Nambu Bus Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W30,000 W150,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 March 8th 11 O’Clock Concert with Korea Life Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 11 am. W15,000 W20,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Bobby McFerrin Live in Seoul Bobby McFerrin is a virtuoso American vocalist and conductor famous for his hit song “Don’t Worry, Be Happy.” He will be performing a solo a capella performance at Olympic Park near Olympic Park Stn. (line 5, ex. 3). 8 pm. W88,000 W132,000. kspo.or.kr 02-410-1601 Gangnam Symphony Brunch Concert Performing works by Mozart, Borodin, Lalo, J. Strauss, and Schumann. Gangnam-gu Community Center. 11 am. W10,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-3430-1153 March 9th - 10th Kim Gyeong-ho Concert A great chance to catch rock star Kim Gyeongho. Blue Square Samsung Card Hall. Fri 8 pm, Sat 7 pm. W88,000 - W99,000. bluesquare.kr 02-6739-1394 March 10th Buga Kingz White Day Hip Hop Concert Samsung Hall at Ewha Womans Univ. 4 & 8 pm. W77,000. samsunghall.interpark.com 02-393-0191 Dickpunks 2012 Tour Concert: Punk of Spring Day Sangsang Madang Art Space in Hongdae near Sangsu Stn. (line

6, ex. 1). 7 pm. W44,000. sangsangmadang.com 02-330-6200 Strange Fruit Summer Festival Fundraiser As a prelude to its upcoming music festival this summer, Exit Six will be hosting local rock bands Frenzy, Swimming Doll, Angry Bear and Japan’s iconic Girl Pistols at Strange Fruit in Hongdae. 8 pm. W5,000. drblues@ freechal.com 02-333-2919 March 12th Budapest Saxophone Quartet Concert Chungmu Art Hall near Sindang Stn. (line 6, ex. 9). 8 pm. W50,000 W70,000. cmah.or.kr 02-2230-6600 Duran Duran Concert English rock band Duran Duran will be performing at Olympic Park near Olympic Park Stn. (line 5, ex. 3). 8 pm. W99,000 - W132,000. kspo.or.kr 02-410-1601 Yo-Yo Ma and The Silk Road Ensemble World renowned celloist Yo-Yo Ma performs with the twenty-member Silk Road Ensemble to create a mixture of musical styles from all over the world. Seoul Art Center. 8 pm. W30,000 - W170,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 March 13th Laurent Korcia White Day Concert People magazine called this French musician the most distinctive violinist of his generation. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. W30,000 W90,000. seoularts.com 02-548-4480 March 14th More Than a Kiss 2: Get into Classical Music Indie group Autumn Vacation and violist Kim Joohyun will show you the charm of classical music at Mapo Arts Center near Daeheung Stn. (line 6, ex. 2). 8 pm. W22,000 - W33,000. mapoartcenter.or.kr 02-3274-8600

Proudly supplied by Kobeak Foods©

10 Magazine March 2012 | 49

SEOUL CALENDAR

PUB & RESTAURANT Come to Itaewon’s neighborhood pub! 서울 SEOUL

* Pool * Darts * NFL Football on Demand * Beers on Tap!

Daily Drink Specials Weekday Happy Hour & Food Specials Back room patio/terrace available for private parties & events.

Heineken Hoegaarden Ally Kat Guinness Domestic beers

March 16th - 18th Monni in Concert See these Korean indie rockers at Samsung Hall at Ewha Womans Univ. Fri 8 pm, Sat 7 pm, Sun 6 pm. W55,000. samsunghall.interpark.com 02-393-0191 March 18th Prelude: “Day Off” Concert This Boston-born quartet of young graduates from prestigious music schools Berklee and NYU are celebrating their 6th album with a jazz concert at the LG Arts Center near Yeoksam Stn. (line 2, ex. 7). 6 pm. W44,000 - W77,000. lgart.com 02-20050114 March 21st Charice: Infinity Tour Charice is a singer who rose to stardom by way of YouTube. See her live in Korea for the first time. AX-Korea near Gwangnaru Stn. (line 5, ex. 2). 8 pm. W88,000. ax-korea.co.kr 02-457-5114 March 23rd Virtuoso Series II: Seoul Philharmonic Orchestra German cellist Daniel Muller-Schott will be performing with the Seoul Philharmonic Orchestra conducted by Michel Plasson of France. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W10,000 - W60,000. seoulphil.or.kr 02-3700-6300

이태원 대한민국 Itaewon Station exit 1, pass KFC on the right. Turn right at the 4th alley. 2nd floor of the third building on the left.

March 15th Peresvet Male Chamber Choir Hailing from Moscow, this eleven-man choir is coming to Seoul to perform classics such as “Ave Maria,” “You Raise Me Up,” “O Sole Mio,” “My Way,” and more. Nowon Culture and Arts Center. 7:30 pm. W1,000. nowonart.kr 02-951-3355

Phone: 02-792-2550

March 24th Grand Opera Gala Concert Featuring selections from Tosca, La Traviata, Carmen, and the Magic Flute. Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). 4 & 8 pm. W30,000 - W150,000. sejongpac.or.kr 1544-1887 Rasmus Faber & RaFa Orchestra Swedish producer Rasmus and the RaFa Orchestra perform original songs and remixes in their unique fusion of jazz and dance. LG Arts Center near Yeoksam Stn. (line 2, ex. 7). 6 pm. W20,000 - W80,000. lgart.com 02-2005-0114 March 25th Yuki Kuramoto in Concert Japanese new age artist Yuki Kuramoto performs with the Mostly Philharmonic Orchestra (yes, that’s actually their name). Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). 3 pm. W30,000 - W100,000. sejongpac.or.kr 1544-1887 March 28th Brian Crain Concert It’s been 10 years since self-taught pianist and composer Brian Crain has performed in Korea. Gangdong Art Center near Godeok Stn. (line 5, ex. 4). W20,000 - W40,000. 8 pm. gangdongarts.or.kr 02-440-0500 March 30th Fred Perry Subculture Viewzic Session Catch Summer Here Kids, The Pony and Viewzic at KT&G Sangsang Art Hall near Samsung Stn. (line 2, ex. 2). 8 pm. W35,000. sangsangarthall.com 02-3404-4311

50 | 10 Magazine March 2012

members. Saecheonnyeon Hall at Sungkyunkwan University. 30th: 8 pm, 31st: 6 pm. W55,000 - W66,000. hall.skku.edu 02-760-0112 March 30th - April 1st Wanted: “Back to Vintage” Concert Korean rock band Wanted returns to the stage after four years. AX-Korea near Gwangnaru Stn. (line 5, ex. 2). March 31st: 7 pm, April 1st: 6 pm. W77,000. ax-korea.co.kr 02-457-5114

Film March 1st - 2nd Free Screenings at the Korean Film Museum Films include Bigger Than Life, The Night of the Hunter, The Grapes of Wrath, and Gentlemen Prefer Blondes. See website for detailed schedule. Korean Film Museum near Digital Media City Stn. (line 6, ex. 2). Free. koreafilm.or.kr 02-3153-2031

Family & Community March 31st - April 1st Comic World Seoul Comic World is a festival for amateur comic artists and anime fans. One of the big draws of these regular events is cosplay, where people dress up like comic book characters. Yangjae AT Center. 31st: 10:30 am - 5 pm, 1st: 10 am - 5:30 pm. W4,000. comicw.co.kr 02-6300-1500

Education & Conferences Ongoing Eric Carle English Art Studio This creative program for small groups allows children to develop their artistic faculty and their English ability at the same time. Taught by an English teacher. Yoondang Art Hall in Sinsa-dong. Weekdays 10 am - 6 pm, Weekends 10 am - 7 pm. W27,000. ydart.co.kr 02-546-8095 Through March 8th Body Worlds: The Original Exhibition The exhibition includes more than 200 “plastinates,” or human specimens that have been preserved using the special technique of plastination developed by Dr. Gunther von Hagens. English audio guides are available. The War Memorial of Korea. 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. W15,000 - W12,000. bodyworlds.kr 02-541-3184 Through March 31st Myeongdong Story Exhibit See pictures, letters, and other memorabilia from the Myeongdong of past years. Seoul History Museum near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 1). Weekdays 9 am – 9 pm. Weekends 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W700, children free. museum.seoul.kr 02-724-0274 March 14th RASKB Lecture: Has Korean Competition Reached its Limit? Fierce competition has driven Korean development, but has this success come at the expense of society at large? Kristin Chong-ae Lee of SBS will discuss the dilemma that Korea now faces. Somerset Palace, 2nd floor. 7:30 pm. W5,000 for non-members, free for members. raskb.com/node/230

Rush Hour Concert with Jo Jae-hyeok Jo Jae-hyeok presents a concert that focuses on classical tunes you’ve probably heard before by composers including Bach, Beethoven, and Chopin. LG Arts Center near Yeoksam Stn. (line 2, ex. 7). 7 pm. W15,000. lgart.com 02-2005-0114

March 15th - 17th Korea Franchise Business Expo Whether it’s retail or wholesale, food service or the entertainment business, you’ll find the info you need at this expo held at SETEC (Seoul Trade Exhibition Center) near Hagyeoul Stn. (line 3, exit 1). 10 am - 6 pm. kfaexpo.kr 02-3471-8135

March 30th - 31st Urban Zakapa Concert Urban Zakapa is an indie-jazz group consisting of nine

March 27th RASKB Lecture: Korean Traditional Porcelain Culture The intricate design

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서울 SEOUL

St. Patrick’sDay Festival March 17th

Family & Community

With just weeks to go, the Irish Association of Korea is busy finalizing preparations for this year’s St. Patrick’s Day Festival. The much-anticipated event will take place in a prime Seoul location on Saturday, March 17th. In past years, the festival has drawn large crowds and is in fact one of the largest annual expat events in Seoul. The Irish Association of Korea invites people from all nationalities to join them at this wonderful event. St. Patrick’s Day is a cultural holiday celebrated internationally on March 17th. It commemorates St. Patrick, commonly regarded as the patron saint of Ireland. On this day, people across the world come out to celebrate Irish traditions and customs. In Korea, the event is a time for expats as well as Koreans to join in on this Irish celebration. The Irish Association of Korea, of course, heads up the festivities on this occasion, as it has done for over ten years. Last year’s music and dance festival in Insadong saw over 10,000 people enjoying the festivities. At this year’s event, visitors can enjoy traditional Irish music performed by well-known musicians in Seoul, more upbeat Irish rock music, and the ceili, a traditional Irish group dance. After the dancing troop performs a few sets, the public will be invited to join in and participate. Later, there are plans to host a musical hooley featuring singers and musicians. The festivities will be held from 12 10 Tip – 5 pm on March 17th. More details To see 10’s regularly about the location will be announced updated list of 2012 St. on the IAK website at www.iak.co.kr. Patrick’s Day parties and You can also find them on Facebook celebrations, including by searching for “Irish Association of this one, visit 10mag. com/2012-st-patricks-day. Korea.” irishassociationofkorea@gmail.com Wor ds by Sh au na Brow n e and shots by Tom Coy n er 10 Magazine March 2012 | 51

SEOUL CALENDAR of Korean porcelain has made it a precious asset to artists and historians worldwide. Learn about the details of manufacture from Carolyn K. Koh Choo, Chung-Ang University professor emeritus. Somerset Palace, 2nd floor. 7:30 pm. W5,000 for non-members. raskb.com/node/231

서울 SEOUL SEOUL

2012 K-League March 10th Seoul vs Jeonnam March 18th FC Seoul vs Daejeon March 25th FC Seoul vs Jeonbuk All at Seoul World Cup Stadium, 3 pm 2012 Baseball Doosan Bears at Jamsil Stadium 20th - 21st vs LG 1 pm 24th - 25th vs KIA 1pm 27th - 28th vs Nexen 1 pm LG Twins at Jamsil Stadium 17th - 18th vs Samsung 1 pm 20th - 21st vs Doosan 1 pm 22nd - 23rd vs SK 1 pm 29th - 30th vs Hanwha 1 pm Nexen Heroes at Mokdong Stadium 20th - 21st vs KIA 1 pm 22nd - 23rd vs Daegu 1 pm March 8th - 11th 2012 Korea Golf Show With over 120 companies and 400 booths, both amateurs and pro-golfers are sure to find this exhibition helpful. COEX Hall B at Samseong Stn. (line 2, ex. 5 & 6). 8th - 10th: 10 am - 6 pm, 11th: 10 am - 5 pm. W5,000. Free with online registration. kogolf.co.kr 02-6000-1072 March 17th Oriental Melon Eating Marathon 5k, 10k, half and full to depart at 9 am from Sindaebang Stn. (ex. 5). Register by March 10th. W15,000 - W25,000. tourmarathon.com 1644-4219 Korea and Japan Tourism Marathon & Walkathon 5k, 10k, half, full to depart at 9 am from Sindorim Stn. ex. 1. Register by March 17th. W15,000 - W25,000. tourmarathon.com 1644-4219 March 24th 2012 Eco Marathon 5k, 10k, half and full to depart at 9 am from Sangam-dong World Cup Stadium. Register by March 15th. W20,000 - W30,000. ecomarathon. kr 02-358-1700 March 25th National Half Marathon 5k, 10k, and half to depart at 9:30 am from Jungrang Stream in Jungrang-gu. Register by March 5th. W15,000 - W20,000. runsportal.or.kr 02-416-8474

Travel

52 | 10 Magazine March 2012

March 4th Caving and Ferry Riding Get away from the city and closer to nature. Starting from the Chungju dam in Chungcheongbuk-do, the group will take a ferry ride to visit deep, dark caves and see famous mountain peak landscapes. W49,000. adventurekorea.com 010-4242-5536 March 10th - 11th Temple Stay Get spiritual with the monks of Geumsansa Temple in Jeollabuk-do. Learn about the lives of Buddhist monks and harmonize with nature on this overnight trip. W89,000. adventurekorea.com 010-4242-5536 March 17th RASKB Yeoju Tour Learn about Korean history and the country’s natural beauty with the Royal Asiatic Society, Korea Branch. Brother Anthony will lead this excursion through Shilluk-sa, Empress Myongsong’s birthplace, and King Sejong’s tomb. Bus departs from the Korean Yongsan Post Office at 8:30 am and returns at 7 pm. W43,000 - W51,600. Reserve by March 13th. raskb.com/node/229 March 18th RASKB Walk through Bukcheon Professor David Mason will share the rich history that surrounds the “North Village,” famous for its preserved hanok (한옥, traditional Korean houses). Departs from Anguk Stn. (ex. 3) at 9:30 am. W20,000 for members, W24,000 for non-members. Reserve by March 14th. raskb.com/node/232 March 24th - 25th Seoraksan and Osaek Hot Spring Trip From the mountaintop to the beach, this tour has a variety of hiking courses for beginners and thrill-seekers, as well as a chance to try fresh local seafood and natural Osaek mineral spring water. W106,000. adventurekorea.com 010-4242-5536

Nightlife Ongoing Open Mic Night at Bar Ireland Yuki Enjoy the musings of Seoul’s best talent every Thursday night at Bar Ireland Yuki. Registration begins at 7:30 pm and the show starts at 8 pm. Free admission. Located near Itaewon Station (line 6, ex. 2), right next to Kraze Burger. itaewonopenmic@gmail.com Quiz Night at Craftworks Every Wednesday at 8:30 pm. Great prizes including W50,000 bar tab for 1st place and prizes from sponsors. Craftworks Taphouse is located near Noksapyeong Stn. (line 6, ex. 2). craftworkstaphouse.com 02-794-2537 Stand Up Seoul Comedy Night Korea’s finest English language comedians deliver monologues and rants about expat life and other topics. New acts are welcome! The show starts at 9 pm on first Thursday of each month at the Rocky Mountain Tavern in Itaewon. Facebook: Stand Up Seoul james.hershberger@gmail.com

March 3rd Paintball Game Have LAN parties lost their excitement? Adventure Korea is hosting real first-person shooting games in the Gyeonggi countryside. Covers three to four rounds, but refills are always up for consideration. W41,000. adventurekorea.com 010-4242-5536

March 14th Wine Down Wednesday with Linked Seoul Mix and mingle with fine wine and fine food at Esclusivo in Sinsa-dong. Food prepared by Michelin-rated Chef Sebastiano Giagregorio. 7 - 10 pm. W50,000 prepay, W60,000 at the door. linkedseoul.org

All You Can Drink Brewery Tour See for yourself how beer is made (and drunk!) at the Cheongpyeong Brewery in Gyeonggi. Live expat bands and a barbecue pork dinner await you. W70,000. adventurekorea.com 010-4242-5536

March 17th St. Patrick’s Day on the Han River This 3-hour Han River cruise includes unlimited craft beer, a food item provided by Craftworks, and roasted pig! Yeouinaru Stn. (line 5, ex. 3). 6 pm - 9 pm. W60,000. seoulpeople@live.com 010-7196-4262

There are plenty of club promoters in Seoul, but few are doing it better than the three featured this month. Despite the difference in styles, all three are unwaveringly committed to providing unforgettable nights for the Korean late night set. Venue in Itaewon is turning the traditional hip-hop club model on its head. Manager Kevin Boyd is aiming to give artists a chance to play music they love in an environment that is relaxed and atmospheric. The burgeoning club is finding huge success in their Ladies Night on Thursdays, which offers groups of 3 girls or more a free bottle of wine. Spring sees the arrival of Lazy Sundays, a reggae roots/dubstep event that is sure to solidify their reputation as the place to party with dedicated hip-hop/soul lovers in Korea. Anyone with any interest in bass in Seoul knows J-Path (featured in pictures). A trailblazer for the scene, he is a passionate supporter of drum and bass, dubstep and deep house. Operating mainly out of Via in Hongdae, his Junglist parties are known for bringing the best overseas acts to Seoul but 2012 sees him turning the focus local. With Low End Theory, J-Path is hoping to create an environment where music lovers can bond over the deep, soulful bass being created by Korean artists. Skyler Jeong, owner of Freebird in Hongdae, is a true indie aficionado. He is constantly showcasing new bands and DJs at his club and is heavily involved in Seoul Night, Sound Day and Club Day. Skyler describes Freebird’s vibe as relaxed and a little grimy, but with some of the cheapest drink prices in Seoul and all types of indie, there are no complaints. March sees the introduction of vintage dance and rock and roll nights and another opportunity for this ten-year music veteran to demonstrate the way to do a club night right. Wor ds by N i na Hoffma n

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서울 SEOUL SEOUL

A Club Night for Everyone

High Street Market, for all your familiar and favorite goods!

SEOUL discovery

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Sit Down Laughing, Stand Up Seoul Words by Chris M itch e ll and shots by Charli e S uh

When you think of Seoul, what do you imagine? Perhaps you envision culinary delights or the vibrant nightlife in Hongdae. Maybe your mind jumps to the intriguing artistic scene of Insadong, or veers off to the serene palaces and temples strewn across the city. Well, it’s about time you added stand-up comedy to the mix, because plenty of laughs and opportunities abound in Seoul for the humor aficionado.

ow that we’re talking about comedy, what exactly does the city offer? As it turns out, an awful lot, in the form of Stand Up Seoul. They tout themselves as “Korea’s first and best in English comedy,” and rightfully so. Stand Up Seoul is nothing short of synonymous with expat comedy on the peninsula and, as their name suggests, especially in Seoul. It was the brainchild of a Canadian named Brian Alyward who, in 2009, focused on establishing a comedic platform that was previously non-existent. What began as an open mic night has become a full-fledged show, and what started as a simple idea has developed into a tight-knit community. And best of all, you can be a part of this thriving community yourself. Stand Up Seoul faced a hurdle in December of 2010 when Brian Alyward headed back to Canada, but it was gallantly overcome. Four passionate individuals (Erin Weber, Albert Escovedo, Rudy Tyburczy, and Jeff Sinclair) led the charge to keep Stand Up Seoul alive and well. Since its formation, Stand Up Seoul has continued to bring in top-notch, internationally renowned comedians such as Tom Cotter, Ted Alexandro, and Kyle Kinane. 54 | 10 Magazine March 2012

The latest visitor will be the hilarious James Adomian, who has been booked for two heavily anticipated performances on March 2nd and 3rd. If you haven’t heard of him, then visit YouTube, but not before making a visit to Itaewon for the next Stand Up Seoul show. It comes as no surprise that Stand Up Seoul’s headquarters are in the expat entertainment mecca known as Itaewon. On the first Thursday of each month you can find a devoted group of comedians strutting their stuff at Rocky Mountain Tavern, located a 5-minute walk from Itaewon Station. The venue itself provides all the ingredients for a fantastic evening, but it’s not just the venue that makes Stand Up Seoul special, but also the guffaws and giggles of the crowd. Though the crowd is primarily expat, it’s a welcome environment for anybody willing to part with a W5,000 note to get in the doors. It’s an absolute steal as far as entertainment goes. The monthly show generally begins around 9 pm and, depending on the comedic lineup, lasts around two hours. You’ll likely experience an eclectic group of comedians touching on a wide variety

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of topics. It’s not the type of show you want to bring your innocent toddler to, but it’s also not a show that will leave you utterly shocked and appalled. Not to mention that you’ll find yourself agreeing with a handful of rants about life here in this pleasant, but sometimes peculiar, country. Stand Up Seoul’s monthly show may be their bread and butter, but it certainly isn’t the only performance they’ve got in store. They put on a plethora of shows all over Korea from nearby Suwon to distant Busan. You can also find them at a variety of bars in the greater Seoul area for regular alternative events. Stand Up Seoul is always on the move, so the best way to track what they are up to is to join the regularly updated “Stand Up Seoul” group on Facebook. Also, be sure to keep an eye out for Busan’s prime comedy location, appropriately called the “Ha-Ha Hole.” While being part of a comedy crowd is fantastic, what if you’re craving the spotlight and excitement that only the bright lights of a stage can offer? Stand Up Seoul, after all, did begin as an open mic night, so there are definitely opportunities to explore your comedic potential. It’s a great community of encouraging comedians who all share a common bond as foreigners. As jumping straight into Stand Up Seoul might give you some stage fright, it’s best to shake off that nervousness first at either Tony’s Open Mic Comedy Wednesdays or a weekly Thursday night open mic at Bar Ireland Yuki’s, both venues also located in Itaewon. Then, get in touch with the folks at Stand Up Seoul and give it your best shot. Laughter is, after all, the best medicine, and whether you are delivering the jokes or chuckling in the audience, this is where you can fill your prescription.

L e ar n i n g M o r e

To find out more about the comedy nights mentioned in the article, see the following websites. Stand Up Seoul: “Stand Up Seoul” on Facebook Tony’s Open Mic Comedy Wednesdays: tonysitaewon.com Bar Ireland Yuki’s open mic: “Itaewon Open Mic at Bar Ireland Yuki” on Facebook Busan’s Ha-Ha Hole “The Ha-Ha Hole” on Facebook 10 Magazine March 2012 | 55

SEOUL DIRECTORY Guesthouse Korea Jongno guesthouseinkorea.com 02-3675-2205 Bebop Guesthouse Hongdae bebop-guesthouse.com, 070-8261-4835 Kim’s Guesthouse Hongdae kimsguesthouse.com 02-337-9894 Namu Guesthouse Hongdae namugh.co.kr 070-8291-4878 Olympic Parktel Jamsil parktel.co.kr 02-410-2114 Seoul Backpackers Myeongdong seoulbackpackers.com 02-3672-1972

Seoul Foreigner Assistance

Insurance

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ATEK (Association for Teachers of English in Korea) atek.or.kr Seoul Dasan (City Info) 02-120 Seoul Global Center global.seoul.go.kr 02-1688-0120 Yeoksam English 02-3453-9038 Yeonnam Chinese 02-6406-8151 Seorae French 02-570-6009 Ichon Japanese 02-2199-8882 Itaewon/Hannam English 02-2199-8883~5

Medical Services

Radio

TBS eFM FM 101.3 American Forces Network FM 102.7 Transportation

International Taxi (English Speaking) 1644-2255 Jumbo Taxi Service (more expensive) 02-888-2000 Interactive Subway Map smrt.co.kr Counseling Services

Conscious Living Looking for change? Or did change find you? Would you like to shift the places you’re stuck and have more ease and joy in life? Licensed facilitator, Mary-Jane, offers personal/staff/relationship counselling and life coaching. Group workshops also available. conscious-living.asia 010-3996-9429 Korea Counseling Psychological Association krcpa.or.kr 02-498-8293 Law Firm

JM Law Group Hard to find a good lawyer in Korea? We at JM Law Group will fight for your legal rights from employment disputes to business transactions. For a free consultation, please email us at kkim@jmlaw.co.kr

Samsung Fire and Marine Insurance Automobile and motorcycle insurance provided by one of Korea’s most reliable conglomerates. Also available; Life/ Annuities, Business/Fire, Supplemental Medical, Travel Insurance. 010-3232-0625 Travel Agencies

Cosmojin Tour cosmojin.com

02-318-0345

Fides Travel fidestravel.co.kr

02-755-5470

JNC Travel Itaewon Itching to travel? This travel agent offers worldwide discount air tickets, hotels, professional counseling, and package goods. Mon Fri 10 am - 7 pm, Sat 10 am - 5 pm, Sun 1 - 5 pm. 02-796-9633

A Plus Dental aplusnetworks.co.kr 02-3442-7616 Hus Hu Dental & Skin Clinic hus-hu.com 02-519-8013 Ideal Wellness Center Are you ready to upgrade your health? Get the help of US Board Certified Chiropractor, Dr. William Choi, sports trainer and massage specialist at this comfortable chiropractic clinic. idealwellness.co.kr 02-790-7246 Jaseng Hospital of Oriental Medicine Are you suffering from back or neck pain? Visit the non-surgical spinal specialists. jaseng.net 02-3218-2167 Korea HIV/AIDS Prevention & Support Center khap.org 02-927-4322 New York Wholistic Care Dr. Vincent Jong, an experienced New York chiropractor, uses pilates/yoga and body balancing therapy to help you reenergize your mind and achieve optimal health. F2, 736-21 Hannam-dong, Yongsangu. nywc.co.kr 02-792-2296 Ra Dental Clinic 02-569-8745 Tufts Dental Clinic 02-553-7512

Unique Travel Itaewon 02-792-0606 Xanadu Travel xanadu.co.kr

02-795-7771

Accessories

Flower

On hats & luggage tags Noksapyeong Itaewon McDonald’s Market

Only takes 1 minute

Burger King Hannam-dong International Arcade

070-4254-3956/ 010-2697-3955 Korean Safari koreansafari.com 019-542-2955 O’ngo Culinary Tours Korean food tours and cooking classes in Seoul. Tours and classes are taught by Korean food experts. Experience the culture through the cuisine. ongofood.com 010-6661-7769 Royal Asiatic Society Korea Branch raskb.com 02-763-9483 USO DMZ Tours affiliates.uso.org/korea 02-795-3028 WOW Corea Tour wowcoreatour.com 02-739-3337 Classes

Access Consciousness What if the life you imagined was actually possible? Regular classes held in Seoul & around Korea. Contact Nate at 010-6285-6283 or nhkent@gmail.com

Art Classes at Jankura Artspace Itaewon Learn to draw or paint with English instruction. Weekly life drawing sessions too! szpada@gmail.com, mstewartprintmaker.com/class.htm Bikram Yoga Gangnam Feel the 105°F heat of the original Bikram Yoga with 90-minute classes taught by passionate instructors. Behind the Kyobo Tower building, Sinnonhyeon Stn. (line 9, ex. 7). bikramyogakorea.co.kr 02-532-2101 Bellydance Lessons with Eshe Morning, afternoon, and evening classes, plus Sunday classes at the Well Being Studio. navah@live.com Ballet Stretching Itaewon Dance your days away with a diverse selection of classes available: child ballet, yoga, tae bo, yoga for pregnant women, pilates, diet dance, and even salsa classes. Private training available. Mon–Fri open 9 am–10 pm. 124-7 Itaewon-dong, yongsan-gu. 010-9309-9021

02-796-9052 Ambrosia Customized Embroidery You write it, he’ll sew it! It only takes a minute to have your name or message embroidered on hats, luggage tags, backpacks, T-shirts, ties and jackets. 56-9, Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. mrnameonhat.co.kr 02-796-9052 Hotels/Accommodations

Flowershop31 Free delivery in Seoul and Gyeonggi Province. English, Chinese, Japanese: 16883731; Korean 02-415-3731 flowershop31.com

56 | 10 Magazine March May 2011 2012

KoreaHotel.com Korea’s version of Expedia. koreahotel.com 4-5 Star Hotels Astoria 02-2268-7111 COEX InterContinental 02-3452-2500 Courtyard 02-2638-3000 Grand InterContinental 02-555-5656 JW Marriott 02-6282-6262 Millenium Hilton 02-753-7788 Renaissance 02-555-0501 Ritz-Carlton 02-3451-8000 Hostels Guest House Baenang Yongsan 010-9071-4641

WY Dentistry Gangnam Better than your dentist back home. Dr. Yoo is a US-trained and licensed dentist with over 20 years of clinical dental experience serving the expat community since 1996. wydent.com 02-514-5575 Korean Tours

Adventure Korea adventurekorea.com 018-242-5536 Explore Korea This Jeju local travel company specializes in private getaways and special group tours to Jeju Island. They offer inexpensive tours with high quality service. explorekorea.net

Dulwich College Seoul Banpo The curriculum from Toddlers to Year 8 (ages 18 months to 14 years) follows the best practice of the Early Years Foundation Stage Framework and English National Curriculum, enhanced for an international setting. 02-3015-8500

Beer O’Clock The bar in Sinchon has darts and several sports on big-screen TVs with great food. The Gyeongnidan location will satisfy your Canadian-style pizza needs. Beer O’Clock serves up good times. Sinchon: 02-333-9733 Berlin Noksapyeong Combining a restaurant, cafe and lounge, Berlin boasts a varied menu, plus wines and all types of music. Noksapyeong St. (line 6). 457-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. awakeinseoul@gmail.com 02-749-0903

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Speaking Listening Diction Presentation 그레고리 에트하트 영어 프레젠테이션, 비즈니스 영어, 메디컬 영어, 영어회화, 취업 유학 준비, 영어발표, TOEFL 말하기와 작문

Gregor y E t heart 01 0-9930-7656 Greg’s English Private effective English conversational speaking and listening lessons for adults, middle and high school students. TOEFL, ILETS gregblex@gmail.com 010-9930-7656

Tefl Worldwide Become TEFL certified and begin teaching English abroad! TEFL Worldwide offers courses on a monthly basis. Apply now! www.teflworldwideprague.com, info@teflworldwideprague.com

B1 Itaewon One of the most hopping bars in Itaewon on any given night, with guest DJs and a good vibe. 7 pm - 3 am. 02-749-6164

Museums

Learn Korean from a pro. All of our Korean language teachers have a Masters Degree in Teaching Korean as a Second Language or are getting one. And they all have years of experience teaching people like you! InterCultural Communications Learn Korean at your home or office from experienced, professional Korean language teachers. 02-512-8443 International Guides of Korea Courses in ice climbing, rock climbing and more. iguidekorea.com Jai Center for Yoga and Health jaicenter.co.kr 02-3443-9642 Sanirang Alpine Networks This climbing service offers lessons, clinics, and guided tours. sanirang.net, info@sanirang.net

To inquire about getting a logobox for your business, email us at marketing@10mag.com

Gahoe Museum gahoemuseum.org 02-741-0466 World Jewelry Museum wjmuseum.com 02-730-1610 Kimchi Field Museum kimchimuseum.co.kr 02-6002-6456 Kyung-in Museum of Fine Art Kyunginart.co.kr 02-733-4448 Leeum Samsung Museum of Art leeum.org 02-2014-6901 Museum of Korean Traditional Music ncktpa.go.kr 02-580-3130 National Folk Museum nfm.go.kr 02-3704-3114 National Museum of Korea museum.go.kr 02-2077-9000 National Palace Museum of Korea gogung.go.kr 02-3701-7500 Seoul Art Center sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Seoul Museum of Art seoulmoa.seoul.go.kr 02-120 Seoul National Science Museum ssm.go.kr 02-3668-2200 War Memorial warmemo.or.kr 02-709-3139 Bars/Lounges/Pubs

Wine Bars Dulce Y Suave Garosugil Stop by this classy Sinsa-dong wine bar for an extensive wine list that won’t break your budget. 5 pm - 3 am. 02-515-6750 Vin Ga Apgujeong Immaculate service and a subdued atmosphere make this the wine bar of choice for dinner parties and business meetings. Podo Plaza building near Apgujeong St. podoplaza.co.kr 02-516-1761 Lounges / PUBS 3 Alley Pub Itaewon Rub shoulders with long-term Seoul expats and try your hands at darts or pool in this comfortable foreigner-owned pub. 116-15 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. 3alleypub.com 02-749-3336 Bar Rouge Itaewon Luxurious wine and tapas bar in the basement of the JW Marriot in Gangnam. Happy hour Tue - Thu 6 - 9 pm. 02-6282-6763

Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong Great home-style Italian cuisine and all-day brunch with an extensive wine, cocktail and beer selection. This is the best that Noksapyeong/Gyeongnidan has to offer. More info on Facebook: “Noxa Lounge.” 02-790-0776 Platoon Kunsthalle Apgujeong Showcasing underground artists and a fine selection of cutting-edge performances. 11 am – 1 am. Closed Sun. 97-22 Gangnam-gu, Nonhyeondong. kunsthalle.com 02-3447-1191

Between Itaewon This multi-level lounge serves contemporary Italian and Spanish mains, lunch, brunch and tapas in a sophisticated atmosphere with live DJs and a spacious terrace. 124-7 Yongsan-gu, Itaewon-dong. 02-795-6164 Bliss Itaewon Fresh beats by DJ Shine and a reasonably priced menu. Itaewon. 4 pm – 4 am. 02-798-1125 BricX Hongdae, Itaewon Chill out at either of BricX’s two locations. Hongdae 6 pm – 5 am, 마포구 서교동 409-1, B1, 02-3141-5571. Itaewon 7 pm – 5 am, 용산구 이태원동 119-10, B1, bricx.com 02-795-5572 The Bungalow Itaewon This quirky beach-themed bar has sand on the floor, swinging chairs, and candle-lit rooms. 02-793-2344 Coffee Bar K Cheongdam-dong A Japanese franchise, they may just have the best bartenders in town. Mon – Sat 6 pm - 2 am. 02-516-1970 The Concorde Classic and cozy, this wine and martini bar offers an intimate and timeless atmosphere. Reuben sandwiches, quiche, soups and salads available till 1:00 am. 02-749-1210

Canadian Pub & Restaurant Monday Dry Rib Night Tuesday

ight

Wing N

• W300 / wing • 11 different flavors • W5,500 cocktails Friday Bar special Saturday Live music/DJ Sat/Sun Truck Stop Brunch

www.rockymountaintavern.com 010-5189-2327 010-7196-0857

Craftworks Taphouse Itaewon Whet your whistle with fine craft beers including Korea’s first IPA, and stave off your appetite with some great eats. craftworkstaphouse.com 02-794-ALES

Rocky Mountain Tavern Itaewon Canadians feel right at home with all the hockey jerseys hanging on the walls and great live music and events, along with some of the best buffalo wings in Korea. Don’t miss the Stand Up Seoul comedy night the first Thursday of each month. rockymountaintavern.com 010-5775-2327

Dillinger’s A classic-styled bar with seven beers on tap, great food and drink specials. Come enjoy our large flatscreen TVs, dartboards and Wii games. A great atmosphere for you and your friends. 02-793-7232

Sam Ryan’s Itaewon This newcomer to the Itaewon scene offers sports fans eight flat screens throughout the bar along with the meanest plate of pork ribs to be found in Seoul. samryans.com 02-749-7933

10 Magazine March 2012 | 57

SEOUL DIRECTORY

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Burgers & Bar 3F

• Winter Beer Special Cass 500 cc only W2,300! • 2 Beer Pong Tables! • Best Nachos in Korea!

Sinchon 02-333-1604 Yaletown Sinchon Great food using only the best ingredients. Owned by a former NHL/NBA reporter, request your favorite game to watch! Now featuring “Barcraft.” 02-333-1604 Restaurants

American Chili King Itaewon Beefy burgers and chili served up by owner Kevin Cyr. 02-795-1303

58 | 10 Magazine March 2012

FUSION RESTAURANT TEL: 02.749.0508

Kimchi Pots

Noksapyeong Station Exit 2

Gyeongridan

Indigo A cozy cafe boasting terrific international favorites like their chicken pesto sandwich and a legendary weekend brunch at great prices. Free wifi. 02-749-0508 Hollywood Grill The place for Premier League Football and other sports, Hollywood has a great menu of pizza, pasta and steaks along with darts, foosball, pool and Golden Tee. 02-749-1659 Naked Grill Terrific Mexican food, salads and steaks, cooked up to order in a trendy atmosphere. 02-749-4225 Pancakes Original Story Itaewon Mon – Sat 9 am – 10 pm. 02-794-0508 The Pizza Peel Itaewon Offering fresh classic Italian and Western-style pizzas. Enjoy with beer or wine. Hard to find but easy to remember! Dine in or take out. 02-795-3283 Suji’s Itaewon Great American fare in a New York-style bistro atmosphere. sujis.net 02-797-3698 T.G. Brunch Cafe Chef Choi from Hawaii serves a delightful brunch along with his signature burgers, sandwiches, and more. Wine W2,500 for ladies. Wednesdays wing night: 10 for W3,000. 02-749-8005 Austrian Chef Meili Itaewon 02-797-3820 BRAZILIAN Copacabana Itaewon For only W29,000 you get all-you-can-eat of 7 different cuts of roasted meat and a tremendous Brazilian buffet. Make your reservations today! 02-796-1660 Bulgarian Zelen Itaewon 02-749-0600 Chinese Ho Lee Chow Serving up the best North American-style Chinatown cuisine in Korea since 1998, with 5 convenient locations in the greater Seoul area to serve you. holeechow.co.kr. Itaewon

02-793-0802, Apgujeong 02-514-1730 Jamshil 02-411-0688, Dogok 02-34614468, Bundang 02-711-9071 French La Cigale Monmartre Itaewon 02-796-1244 Le Saint-Ex Itaewon 02-795-2465 Italian Fradia Gangnam Gaze out on a panoramic view of the Seoul skyline as you dine on choice Italian food at this cafe floating on the Han River. fradia.co.kr 02-3477-0033 La Bocca Itaewon We can’t decide whether it’s a cafe, pastry shop, deli, or wine bar, but what we are sure about is that the food is fresh and the taste is divine. 02-790-5907 Sortino’s Cucina Itaewon Classic Italian trattoria cuisine in a comfortable, homey atmosphere. 02-797-0488 Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong 02-790-0776 Villa Sortino’s Itaewon An incredible Tuscan Villa interior matches perfectly with some tastefully prepared Italian flavors. Just across from the Itaewon fire station. 02-553-9000 korean Bulgogi Brothers Delicious Koreanstyle barbecue at locations throughout Seoul including Gangnam, Myeongdong (02-319-3351), Seoul Station, and Times Square. 11:30 am - 10 pm. bulgogibros.com Maple Tree House (단풍나무집) Itaewon Classy Korean BBQ in the alley just behind the Hamilton Hotel (other branches are located in Samcheongdong and Dogok-dong). 116-1 Itaewondong, Yongsan-gu. 02-790-7977 Mexican Amigos Itaewon 02-795-9711 On the Border The #1 American chain hits that craving for fajitas, chimichangas, tacos, burritos, enchiladas and even margaritas. ontheborder.co.kr Sinchon: 02-324-0682 COEX: 02-565-0682 Times Square: 02-2672-0682 Pancho’s Itaewon 02-792-4767 Taco Amigo Itaewon 02-749-5253 Tomatillo Grill Locations at Jonggak Stn., Samseong Stn., and Yeoksam Stn. tomatillo.co.kr 02-734-9225 Middle Eastern Marakech Nights Itaewon 02-795-9441 Petra Itaewon 02-790-4433 SPANISH Bodega Jamsil With flamenco every Friday. bodega.co.kr 02-3432-8686 Thai Buddha’s Belly Itaewon A lounge atmosphere with full bar and cocktails along with great authentic Thai food. 02-796-9330 Eat Me Itaewon Thai fusion dining and lounge, late night kitchen in Itaewon. Relax in the intimate yet casual dining area and outside patio. Sophisticated atmosphere is sure to please. 070-7624-3149 My Thai Itaewon 02-794-8090 Thai Orchid Itaewon 02-795-3338 Thai Garden Itaewon 02-792-8836 Wang Thai Itaewon Prepared by locally trained chefs, Wang Thai offers only the best of Thai food. Enjoy delicious food in an exotic ambience. 02-749-2746~7 Live Music

Jazz All That Jazz Itaewon 02-795-5701 Cheonnyeondongando (천년동안도) Daehangno (Hyehwa St. Line4) chunnyun.com 02-743-5555

Club Evans Hongdae clubevans.com 02-337-8361 Club Palm Hongdae clubpalm.co.kr 02-336-9016 Once in a Blue Moon Apgujeong onceinabluemoon.co.kr 02-549-5490

InterContinental Hotel Oakwood Premier Woori Bank

COEX

Phillies Haebangchon The legendary local bar is now remodeled and under new ownership. Great burgers and wings. 02-793-2548 Scrooge Pub/Dicken’s Lounge Itaewon A great little sports bar with pool, darts, delicious food and plenty of English-speaking staff. 02-797-8201 Seoul Pub Crawl Meet cool people, play drinking games and party all night long. Where the bars get louder, the drinks get cheaper and the people get better looking. www.seoulpubcrawl. webs.com 010-5839-9257 Seventy Four Cheongdam-dong A beautiful date spot featuring exotic drinks such as cheese martinis, banana mojitos and cuba libres. 7 pm – 4 am. 02-542-7412 Tony’s Aussie Bar & Bistro Itaewon Home of W6000 Guinness & Kilkenny on tap. Non–smoking environment with authentic Aussie food, beer & wine with Monday open mic and Wednesday comedy night. tonysitaewon.com 02-790-0793 Wolfhound Itaewon Terrific Irish/British classic food in a true Irish Pub atmosphere, including shepherd’s pie, toad in a hole, fish n’ chips, bangers n’ mash along with Guinness and Kilkenny on draft. wolfhoundpub.com 02-749-7971

Bonji Bistro Just behind Itaewon Hotel and under Gecko’s Garden, Bonji Bistro offers a terrific menu of salads, sandwiches, pastas and classic tapas along with an unbeatable bar. The floor-to-ceiling window door-walls open wide, making it the perfect place to be for their delicious weekend brunch. geckosterrace.com 02-795-9656 The Frypan Delicious fried chicken near Itaewon Station. 02-794-5598 Gallery Through Head here to enjoy fantastic meals, parties, art, and people. 02-3444-9700 Gecko’s Terrace The original Itaewon foreigner hangout, with a comfortable atmosphere, delicious food including great sandwiches, salads and pasta, and English-speaking staff that know how to make cocktails and shots right. geckosterrace.com 02-749-9425 Gecko’s Garden Legendary for its gorgeous home-style atmosphere, Gecko’s Garden has now started offering a delicious buffet, with steaks and pasta made to order. Don’t worry; the tapas menu is also still alive and well. geckosterrace.com 02-790-0540

Hyundai Department Store

Teheranno

LINE Line 22 Samseong Stn.

Tokyo Jazz Authentic jazz music performed Mon-Sat, 9:30 pm - 12:30 am by European, American, and Korean musicians. Two minute’s walking distance from the COEX and Grand InterContinental Hotels. 153-44 Samsung-dong. 02-3453-4472 Rock Freebird Hongdae cafe.navercom/ clubfreebird 02-335-4576 Jammers Hongdae jammers.co.kr 02- 325-3914 Just Blues Apgujeong justblues.co.kr 02-542-4788 SoundHolic Hongdae cafe.daum.net/SoundHolic Clubs

Club Hamilton Hotel Fire Station

n Statio

Itaewo

KB Bank

Police Station

[ Itaewon Station Exit 3 ] Tel: 793.2333

America Latina Itaewon opens at 8 pm Wednesdays to Sundays and offers Salsa classes. Check Facebook group: Club America Latina in Seoul. Answer Cheongdam-dong After a short-lived stint as gala restaurant Le Nuit Blanche, the club we all know and love is back. clubanswer.co.kr 02-514-4311 Ben @Blue Spirit Hongdae Great Japanese curry during the day and soju cocktails at night. Hit up the weekend parties. 360-18 SeokyoDong, Mapo-Gu. 02-3142-5301 Eden Gangnam Mega club with top DJs, sizzling sound, and model nights. 역삼동 602 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnamgu, Ritz Carlton Hotel. eden-club.co.kr 010-9913-3919

service from the English-speaking stylists at Toni & Guy. Near Hongik University. 02-338-2773 Massage

Healing Hands Massage Studio healinghands.co.kr 070-7504-8090 Community

Brazilians in Seoul Also known as Brasileiros em Seul, this group meets up on the 3rd Tuesday of each month. alocoreia@gmail.com 010-9631-2133 Gangnam Hills Toastmasters Club Helping you develop oral communication and leadership skills. koreatraining@ yahoo.com 010-8779-1969 Korea Baby Network Korea’s only non-profit birth and breastfeeding education group. We offer classes and connections with doulas, birth educators, and families. Facebook: Korea Baby Network koreababynetwork.com Republicans Abroad Monthly meetings, events, and lectures for supporters of the USA Republican Party. kmohay@hotmail.com 010-8688-9810

서울 SEOUL

Function Itaewon The boutique club hidden in the fancy Macaroni Market restaurant. Tue, Wed, Thu 6 pm – 2:30 am; Fri and Sat 6 pm-3:30 am. 737-50 Hannnam1-dong Yongsan-gu. 02-749-9181 Heaven Gangnam The newest member of Seoul’s club scene combines top-notch technology with divine DJs spinning house and electro beats. W30,000 general admission, W40,000 for after club hours. Near Yeoksam St. clubheaven.co.kr 02-3444-4997 J.J. Mahoney’s The drinks don’t come cheap, but this nightclub at the Grand Hyatt is a favorite with the over-30s crowd. 747-7 Hannam 2-dong. seoul.grand.hyatt.com 02-797-1234 Koobar @Blue Spirit Apgujeong Hip music for a classy crowd. 664-11 Shinsadong, Gangnam-gu. 02-518-5115 M2 Hongdae This long-running club is party central for college students. Sun – Thu 8 pm – 4 am, Fri and Sat 7:30 pm – 6 am. Cover starts at W10,000. 367-11 Seogyo-dong Mapo-gu. ohoo.net/m2 02-3143-7573

Gourmet Foods

High Street Market Itaewon Freshbaked bread, choice beef cuts, imported cheese, and value-for-money wines, and all in one shop. 737-24 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu. 02-790-5450 Religious

Mystik Itaewon DJ Yeonjun and DJ Crew team up with international artists to bring you some off-the-hook parties with minimal, techno, and tech house. 010-3440-9474 NB Hongdae, Gangnam Supposedly the first hip-hop club in Korea, it has one bar, two stages, and a packed crowd. clubnb.com 02-326-1716 Q-vo Hongdae A popular hip hop club with strobes pulsing above the dance floor. Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun 8 pm – 4 am and Wed, Fri, Sat 8 pm – 6:30 am. W10,000 - W15,000. 121-210 Ohoo B/ D 367-1 Seogyo Dong. clubqvo.co.kr 02-3143-7573 Volume Itaewon A true “music lovers” club, Volume is found in the basement of Crown Hotel. Fri and Sat 9 pm - 6 am. W15,000 - W30,000. Crown Hotel B1 clubvolume.com 1544-2635 Woo Bar Check out the split-level lobby lounge for cool music and exclusive parties. No cover charge. 21 Gwangjang-dong wseoul.com 02-465-222202-3142-4233 Cafes

Caffé Bene Coffee, gelatos, and waffles are on the menu at the 400 Caffé Bene outlets across Korea. caffebene.co.kr 02-3438-6888 Beauty

Jay’s Hairdressing Itaewon Stylists trained at Tony&Guy and Vidal Sassoon Academy bring out the best in your hair. 2F 126-17 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. 070-4227-6158 Marie&M Gangnam The right haircut makes all the difference! All staff at this salon are qualified by Vidal Sassoon. 02-512-3798 Tony&Guy Whether it’s a cut, highlight, low light, or hair spa that you want, you’re guaranteed to get professional

Buddhist Seoul International Zen Center seoulzen.org 02-900-4326 Vairocana International Buddhist Meditation Center 02-735-5347 Jetavana Meditation Center jetavanacenter@gmail.com 02-595-5115 Catholic Bomun 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Dongducheon 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Hannam International Church English, Italian, Spanish, French 02-793-2070 Hyewha-dong Catholic Church 02-764-0221 (press 6) Jinjob 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Keumchon 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Pastral Center for Labor English, Vietnamese, Thai 02-924-2721 Salesio Labor Center Tagalog, Daelim 1 dong 02-765-0870 Sung-dong Social Welfare Center Tagalog 02-765-0870 Yoksam-dong Church 02-553-0801 Catholics in South Korea Facebook Group, Annamarie at sunshineamore25@gmail.com Islam Seoul Central Masjid

02-794-7307

Protestant Gwanglim Church 02-2056-5732 International Lutheran 02-794-6274 Jubilee Church 02-569-2293 Korean Rainbow Christian Fellowship krcf.weebly.com Kumnan Church 02-490-7000 Myungsung Presbyterian 02-440-9000 Onnuri Church 02-793-9686 Presbyterian Church of the Lord empcl.org 010-2266-6453 Somang Presbyterian 02-512-9191 Seoul Union Church 02-333-7393 Yoido Full Gospel Church 02-782-4851 Yongsan Baptist Church 02-796-0284

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GANGWON CALENDAR Art Through March 11th Seeing Mt. Geumgang Again Relics from Mt. Geumgang are exhibited at the Sokcho Museum and the Displaced Citizens Folk Village. 9 am - 5 pm. Adults W2,000, teens W1,500, children W700. sokchomuse.go.kr 033-639-2977

Performance Ongoing The Manic Show: Comedy and Magic Magician Choi Hyeon-u and comedian Jo Won-seok will entertain you with amusing magic tricks and gags. Gangwon Tourist Pension in Jeongsun. Saturdays and Sundays, 7 pm. W20,000. ticket.interpark.com 033-592-5942

GANGWON

Gangneung Folk Show Off Their Creative Side For expats in Gangneung, this monthly open mic night provides a welcome change of pace—and a welcoming environment for showing off talents. For many foreigners, living outside of Seoul means a dearth of cultural events. Socializing occurs mostly in bars, and outlets for creative expression can be few. But for residents of Gangneung on the east coast in Gangwon-do, both foreigners and Koreans have come together at a long-running open mic. Started five years ago by two foreign teachers, the Gangneung Open Mic has evolved over the years. Gene Justice and Dylan Butler headed up the first shows to engage the local community and bring together both Koreans and expatriates in a cultural exchange that did not center on soju. The open mic has been sustained by the community since Justice and Butler left Korea in 2010; the current organizer is J.E. Seuk. In this space, the community meets to share ideas, art, and laughs. Hosts vary from month to month (full disclosure: the author is an occasional host) and often organize the show around a theme. Contributors are encouraged to make thematic performances, and hosts lead theme-related games. Past themes have included Belief and Disbelief, Things That Start with the Letter “D,” and Guilty Pleasures. There is no guarantee about the number or types of performances. The night can last from 45 minutes to three hours and features everything from the Korean recorder-like instrument called the danso (단소) to hula dancing. Novel acts such as the psychedelic-folk band Language of Shapes regularly perform, and Verbal Kim, the frontman of aspiring hip-hop team Mixed Nutz, often comes by with his pink guitar. Both English and Korean writing may be read and impromptu performance art may occur, such as a Rubik’s cube/push up competition accompanied by fiddle. The one thing this open mic is never short on is fun. The Gangneung Open Mic takes place on the last Friday of every month at Sopoong, a Korean coffee shop (alcohol is served). It starts around 10:30 pm. And despite the word “mic” in its name, this event is acoustic. It is open to all, and anyone may sign up at the event. For information on the monthly theme or directions, “like” the page “Gangneung Open Mic” on Facebook. Wor ds by A i r e a n n e Hj el l e and shots by M ic h a el Bucz ek

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March 16th Wonju Philharmonic Orchestra Chiak Art Hall in Wonju. 7:30 pm. wjphil.wonju.go.kr 033-737-4302 March 17th - 18th Lee Mun-sae’s “Red Dusk” Concert Popular singer Lee Mun-sae, best known for his hit “Red Dawn,” will be bringing his passion and talent to Wonju. Baekun Art Hall in Wonju. 17th: 7 pm, 18th: 6 pm. W99,000 - W110,000. baekunart.wonju.go.kr 033-737-3820 March 24th Lee Hee-ah Concert Hee-ah is a pianist with only four fingers who performs to bring hope to her audience. Haeram Cultural Center at Wonju National University in Gangneung. 7:30 min. W15,000 - W25,000. ticket.interpark.com 1688-5954

Family & Community March 17th - 18th Bangtae Mountain “Gorosoe” Festival In the West, the sap of the maple tree (고로쇠, gorosoe) is generally boiled into syrup, but in Korea it’s drunk straight for its health benefits. Collect some sap at the Gorosoe Village in Injegun. misan1.org 011-219-1307

Education & Conferences Ongoing Experiencing the Culture of North Korea You can stay overnight at traditional North Korea-style houses. There are 5 kinds of houses. Sokcho Museum and Displaced Citizens Folk Village. W50,000 - W80,000. sokchomuse.go.kr 033-639-2977

Sport & Fitness Dozens of volleyball and basketball games are scheduled for this month. Volleyball games are listed at kovo.co.kr (mostly Korean, though some events are listed in English). Men’s basketball games are listed at kbl.or.kr (Korean only) and women’s games at wkbl.or.kr (also Korean only). Ongoing Sledding Slope at Alps Valley Forget about the plastic discs and get into inner tube sledding for added safety and fun. Alps Valley is located near Chuncheon. 10 am - 4 pm. W10,000. alpsvalley.kr 033-243-2130 2012 K-League * 10th Gangwon vs Daegu 3 pm March March 25th Gangwon vs Seongnam 3 pm at Gangneung Stadium

March 1st - 4th Fun Ski & Snow Festival Only open to foreigners, this festival is a chance to compete against other international skiers and snowboarders or work on your skills with ski lessons for all levels. Yongpyeong Resort. yongpyong.co.kr 1588-0009 April 8th 2012 Samchuk Hwang Young-jo International Marathon 5k, 10k, half, and full to depart from the Samchuk Expo Square. The marathon begins at 9 am. W10,000 - W35,000. Register by March 23rd. run1080.com 042-638-1080 April 29th Chuncheon Inline Marathon 10k, 20k, and 42k. W30,000 - W35,000. Register by March 31st. cc-iloveinline.com 033-260-9151

Dine & Drink Ongoing Institute of Traditional Korean Cooking The facilities here include traditional Korean lodgings, a traditional Korean culinary museum, a traditional gallery, a traditional restaurant, and even a traditional pond. Are you getting the picture? The institute was established to preserve Korean traditional cuisine and to share it with others. ktfce.com 033-333-1012

gangwon PROVINCE Hotels/Accommodations Hotel Inter-Burgo Wonju wonju.inter-burgo.com 033-766-8000 W Hotel Wonju w-hotel.co.kr 033-742-5454

Medical Services Gangwon National University Hospital Chuncheon k nuh.or.kr/html 033-258-2000 Gangnam Hospital Chuncheon ekangnam.co.kr 033-240-7000 Hyundai Animal Clinic Chuncheon dog7582.co.kr 033-256-7582 Ye Dental Clinic Chuncheon ccye.co.kr 033-262-2078

Libraries Chuncheon City Library iccl.or.kr 033-254-3887 Taebaek Municipal Library tbmlib.or.kr 033-550-2755

Museums Bangsan Porcelain Museum Yanggu Browse through the exhibits of Joseonera white clay pottery or sign up for classes to learn how to make it yourself. 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W1,000, teens W700, children W500. bangsanm.or.kr 033-480-2664 Byeolmaru Observatory Yeongwol At 800 meters above sea level, this is your best chance to see the stars on the Korean peninsula. Five tours daily at 2, 3, 6, 8, and 9 pm. Adults W5,000, students W4,000. yao.or.kr 033-374-7460 Mooee Arts Center Pyeongchang Sculpture garden, painting exhibits, and pottery, illustration, and calligraphy workshops available for individuals and groups upon request. 9 am – 7 pm. Adults W2,000, students W1,000. Closed 1st and 3rd Mon. mooee.co.kr 033-335-6700 Sokbong Ceramic Museum Sokcho The pottery on display here spans the United Silla,Goryeo, and Joseon Dynasties. Pottery lessons available. 9 am – 6 pm. Adults W3,500, teens W2,000, children W1,500. Closed Mon. dogong.net 033-638-7711

GYEONGGI CALENDAR Art Through March 4th A Journey Through Fairy Tale Pictures A picture book gallery, story gallery, pop-up gallery, playground, doit-yourself book art, and other exciting activities are prepared for young visitors. Seongnam Art Center. Imae Stn. (Bundang line, exit 1). 10 am - 6 pm. W12,000. snart.or.kr 1688-1187 Through March 11th Edward Curtis: Sacred Legacy Edward Curtis spent 30 years recording the American West and Native American culture through more than 40,000 photos. Gyeonggi Arts Center, Suwon. Suwon Stn. (line 1, ex. 4). 11 am - 7 pm. W6,000. curtis.kr 031-230-3440 Through April 1st Dream of Atom: Tezuka Osamu Special Exhibition Korea’s very first exhibition of legendary Japanese cartoonist Tezuka Osamu, known as the Walt Disney of Asia. The exhibit features Osamu’s undisclosed works, journals, background animations and original cartoons. Goyang Aramnuri Aram Art Center. Jungbalsan Stn. (line 3, ex. 3) Tue -Thu & Sun 10 am – 6 pm, Fri & Sat 10 am – 8 pm. Closed Mon. W6,000 W11,000. artgy.or.kr 031-960-0180

Family & Community Through March 4th Happy World with SpongeBob Season 2 Fun activities for children such as playing with SpongeBob, watching magic shows, and riding a sleigh. KINTEX in Ilsan. Daewha Stn. (line 3, ex. 2) 10 am - 6 pm. W15,000 -W12,000. happyworld1.co.kr 031-995-8275 Through April 1st Provence Village Light Festival This beautiful light festival is divided into different themes such as four seasons, heart park, and sea of love. Paju, north of Seoul. 6 - 11 pm. W3,000 - W5,000. provence.co.kr 1644-8088 March 9th - 11th 2012 International Fishing Exhibition (KOFISH 2012) Korean fishing organizations and companies will provide activities for anyone who enjoys fishing. KINTEX in Ilsan. W3,000 (free with online registration by 2/29). kofish.co.kr 02-6000-1514

Education & Conferences March 23rd - 25th Automotive Week 2012 This automobile festival includes two industrial exhibitions: Auto Service Korea, which focuses on maintenance and repair services, and The Tuning Show, at which visitors can learn about upgrades and custom tuning for their cars. KINTEX in Ilsan. W6,000. autoservicekorea.com 031-810-8093

Sport & Fitness Dozens of volleyball and basketball games are scheduled for this month. Volleyball games are listed at kovo.co.kr (mostly Korean, though some events are in English). For Men’s basketball games visit kbl.or.kr (Korean only) and for women’s games, wkbl.or.kr (also Korean only). March 15th - 18th 2012 Korea Golf Fair This exhibition brings together most major golf brands in Korea to exhibit apparel and golf

equipment. Visitors can also experience screen golf systems and learn more about golf courses. KINTEX in Ilsan. W3,000. koreagolffair.co.kr 02-2113-9564 Ongoing Dongnam Spopia Ice Rink Open all year. Don’t forget to bring your gloves. Yeonsu-dong, Incheon. 10 am - 8 pm. Entrance fee W5,000. Skate rental W4,000. spopia.co.kr 032-814-1331 2012 K-League March 4th Suwon vs Busan 3 pm March 17th Suwon vs Gangwon 3 pm Both at Suwon World Cup Stadium March 11th Incheon vs Suwon at 3 pm March 24th Incheon vs Daejeon at 5 pm Both at Incheon Football Stadium March 11th Seongnam vs Sangju at 3 pm March 30th Seongnam vs Busan at 7:30 pm. Both at Tancheon Sports Complex 2012 KBO Baseball SK Wyverns at Munhak Stadium 17th - 18th vs KIA Tigers 1 pm 20th - 21st vs Samsung Lions 1 pm 24th - 25th vs Nexen Heroes 1 pm 27th - 28th vs Hanwha Eagles 1 pm 29th - 30th vs Doosan Bears 1 pm

gyeongGI province Restaurants

Bihanee Restaurant Incheon bihanee.com 032-525-8771 Cafe Nicolia Bucheon European-style café and wine bar. cafenicolia.com 032329-0526 La Mia Cucina Ilsan The kitchen is always open at this English-friendly Italian pub. 7 pm – 4 am. 010-2327-8882 Bars/Lounges/Pubs

The Big Chill Suwon Chill out in a big way with the friendly crowd while enjoying a game of pool, darts, or wii. Opens 8 pm on Wed – Sat and 4 pm on Sun. Facebook group, edwardjorgensen@gmail.com Dublin Bar Bundang Open mic every Wednesday at 9 pm 031-708-7942 Jukjeon Gecko’s Yongin Bundang and Yongin expats should be ecstatic to know that the famous Gecko’s chain is expanding south. Near the Shinsegye department store. geckosterrace.com 031-262-9974 The Park Bucheon There are three kinds of draft beer and cocktails for your thirst, Western food for your hunger, and four LCD TVs for your sports fixation. Jung-dong in Bucheon. Facebook group 010-3136-0153 Rhythm & Booze Bucheon Open mic nights, sports, concerts, and parties make this a favorite of Bucheon’s expats. Behind the CGV in Jung-dong. Open at 4 pm on Mon – Fri, 11 am on weekends. Facebook group 032-323-0161 Indie Suwon Suwon Get your groove on at Suwon’s premier live music stage, home of the Suwon Open Mic Night held every 4th Saturday. Facebook group, edwardjorgensen@gmail.com Transportation

International Taxi (English speaking) 1644-2255 Jumbo Taxi Service (more expensive) 02-888-2000 Radio

US Armed Forces Network Dongducheon AM 1197/FM 88.3 Pyongtaek AM 1440/FM 88.3 Songtan AM 1359/FM 88.5 Uijeongbu AM 1161/FM 88.5

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CHUNGCHEONG CALENDAR Art Through March 18th Immortal Dream The pieces in this exhibition illustrate the way of life and patterns of thought in China’s Han Dynasty (206 BC - AD 220). Asia Museum, Daejeon. 10 am – 6 pm, Sun 1 – 6 pm. Closed Mon. asiamuseum.asia 042-863-0055

Theater & Dance March 1st Shen Yun World Tour Premier Chinese dance company Shen Yun Performing Arts presents colorful and exhilarating performances of classical dance and music. Jeongshimwha International Cultural Center at Chungnam University in Daejeon. 2 & 7:30 pm. W50,000 - W150,000. cnu.ac.kr 1544-8808

Far from the Gangnam Crowd

Kkotji Beach on Anmyeon Island

CHUNGCHEONG

Fair warning – Kkotji Beach (꽃지 해수욕장) is no place for noobs. But if you’ve been kicking it around the peninsula for a while, then you should be fine. After crossing the bridge from the Taean Peninsula to Amyeon Island, even the road signs are exclusively in Korean. From the time I left Seoul until the time I returned to Gangnam Terminal, I saw exactly zero foreigners. Amyeon has a number of hotels in town, and a lot of pensions near the beach. Solo travelers and couples simply can’t beat the Kkotji Beachtel (beachtel.anmyondo.co.kr). Waterfront rooms boast decks, and at high tide you could hit the water with a ubiquitous Roman candle. I’ve been to several Korean beaches, and I’ve never seen oceanfront balconies of this quality at an affordable hotel. Food options are limited at most Korean coastal areas. Kkotji Beach offers three very expensive raw fish restaurants with identical menus and prices, and two markets that sell snacks, drinks, cup ramen, and little else. I went cheap and got a W10,000 hoedeopbap (회덮밥, sashimi over rice), but it was fresh and tasty and came with a large array of side dishes. Kkotji is a different place at low tide than at high tide. A narrow strip of sand stretches out hundreds of meters when the tide goes out. The beach is more sandy than muddy at low tide, which a group of older Koreans took advantage of by playing kickball on a patch of land that spends a few hours underwater every day. Most striking in the tide difference are the Halmihalabi Rocks, which are small islets at high tide but fully accessible at low tide. If you want adventure, nightlife, and English ability on the coast, stick to Busan or the Boryeong Mudfest. If you want to relax, have a couple beers on an oceanfront deck, and listen to the waves under a night sky lit by stars, fireworks, and little else, give Kkotji a try. G e t t i n g Th e r e Start by heading to Taean-gun on the west coast, easily reached by bus from Seoul, Cheonan, and Daejeon. From Taean, it’s a halfhour bus ride to Anmyeon-do. Some Anmyeon bound buses go all the way to Kkotji Beach, while frequent buses (W1,000) also make the 5-minute trip from Wo r ds and shots by T o dd Bru n s Amyeon to Gotji.

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March 13th - 17th The Fragrance of Traditional Dance Daejeon Culture and Arts Center. djac.or.kr 042-610-2222 March 17th - 18th The Illusion: Lee Eun-gyeol’s Magic Show Lee Eun-gyeol, winner of half a dozen international awards, is Korea’s most famous magician. See his magic show at Jeongshimwha International Cultural Center at Chungnam University in Daejeon. Sat 3 & 7:30 pm, Sun 2 & 6:30 pm. W33,000 - W66,000. cnu.ac.kr 1644-0488 March 24th - 25th Nanta Begun a decade ago, this nonverbal performance is a feast for the ears that turns ordinary kitchen pots and pans into a rhythm section. Chungcheongbukdo Students Education and Cultural Center. 24th: 3 & 7 pm, 25th: 1 & 4 pm. W30,000 - W50,000. cbsec.or.kr 043-229-2622

Concerts March 27th Sangrok Orchestra in Concert Daejeon Culture and Arts Center. 7:30 pm. W10,000 - W50,000. djac.or.kr 042-610-2222 March 28th Brass Kingdom in Concert Daejeon Culture and Arts Center. 7:30 pm. W10,000. djac.or.kr 042-610-2222 March 30th Daejeon Art Orchestra in Concert Daejeon Culture and Arts Center. 7:30 pm. W10,000 - W20,000. djac.or.kr 042-610-2222

Family & Community Through March 4th Kid’s Play Park Five themed indoor playgrounds including air bouncers, Pororo World, and a bubble show. Daegu Exhibition & Convention Center (EXCO). 10 am - 6 pm. Adults W10,000, children W14,000. excodaegu.co.kr 053-601-5233 Through March 11th Cheongju Kid’s Park You and your kids can have a great time out of the cold at this indoor air bounce playground. Cheongju Cultural Industry Promotion Foundation. 10 am - 6 pm. W8,000. cjculture.org 043-219-1004

Sport & Fitness Dozens of volleyball and basketball games are scheduled for this month. Volleyball games are listed on the website at kovo.co.kr (mostly Korean, though English schedules are also listed). Men’s basketball games are listed on kbl.or.kr (Korean only) and women’s games at wkbl.or.kr (also Korean only).

Ongoing Cheongju Ice Rink Open all year. Don’t forget to bring gloves - they’re required for entrance. Heungdeok-gu, Cheongju. W5,000. Skate rental is W3,000. 9 am - 7 pm. cheongju-icerink.com 043-266-1717 April 15th Yesan Cherry Blossoms Marathon 5k, 10k, half, and full marathon to depart at 9 am from the Yesan Municipal Stadium. Register by March 31st. W15,000 - W30,000. yesanmarathon. co.kr 041-331-3630 2012 K-League March 11th Daejeon vs Jeonbuk At Daejeon World Cup Stadium at 3 pm 2012 KBO Baseball Hanwha Eagles at Chungju Stadium 17th - 18th vs Nexen 20th - 21st vs Lotte

CHUNGCHEONG PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance Daejeon International Community Center dicc.or.kr 042-223-0789 Daejeon jungwonh@hotmail.com

Entertainment O-World Amusement Park Daejeon oworld.kr 042-580-4820 Kumdori Land Daejeon kumdori.co.kr 042-862-4000

Hotels/Accommodations New Korea Hotel Asan 041-542-8151 Onyang Hot Spring Hotel Asan 041-545-2141 Cheonan Central Hotel Cheonan 041-564-9100 Yuseong Hotel Daejeon 042-822-9591 The Sky Blue Bird Seosan 011-382-1862 Golden Wave Taean 041-675-2008

Medical Services Konyang International Health Care Center Daejeon kihcc.kyuh.co.kr 042-600-9978 Sun Hospital Daejeon 042-220-8000

Restaurants/Supermarkets First Nepal Restaurant Cheongju firstnepal.com 043-260-5363 Gasan Korean, Cheonan 041-561-9500 Spain House Spanish, Cheonan 041-571-7474 Olive Farms Buffet, Cheongju 043-215-3311

Bars/Lounges/Pubs Rolling Stones Cheonan 041-562-9824 MJ Cheongju “MJ Bar” on Facebook. 043-273-8366 Road King Cheongju 010-8301-5936 Blue Moon Cheongwon 043-285-0399 Brickhouse Sports Bar & Grill Daejeon “The Daejeon Brickhouse” on Facebook, 010-9867-0921 Santa Claus Daejeon “Santa Claus 2008” on Facebook, 042-825-5500 The Shisha House Daejeon “Welcome to the Shisha House” on Facebook. 042-825-4157 042-471-3373 Sponge Daejeon

Live Music Barker’s Live Bar Gyeryong 042-841-0470 Club In Sky 2 Daejeon 042-223-7117

JEOLLA CALENDAR W44,000 - W66,000. cnucc.chonbuk.ac.kr 063-270-2089

Art Through March 18th Trick Art Trick art is a new genre that views 2D classical paintings from a playful 3D perspective. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 10 am - 6 pm. W12,000. sori21.co.kr 063-270-8000

March 24th Art Stage Sori: Park Ju-won “Fiesta of Sorrow” Guitarist Park Ju-won is holding a performance at the Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 7 pm. W20,000. sori21.co.kr 063-270-8000

Through May 28th Choi Seok-hwan and Pictures of Grape He may not have much competition, but Choi Seok Hwan is the undisputed master of grape portraits. His works are on display at Jeonju National Museum. 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Free. jeonju.museum.go.kr 063-223-5651

March 31st - April 1st Jeonju City Troupe Regular Concert Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 3 pm. Adults W15,000, Teens W10,000. sori21.co.kr 063-270-8000

Family & Community March 30th - April 8th

Concerts Ongoing Gugak Saturday Performance The South Jeolla Provincial Gugak Troupe has held more than 1,300 Korean classical music performances since 1986. Performances every Saturday, 5 pm, at Mokpo Citizen’s Culture and Athletic Center. W5,000. art.mokpo.go.kr 061-270-8375 March 2nd Early Spring Concert Suncheon Culture and Art Center. 7 pm. scart.or.kr 061-749-3516 March 3rd Lee Seung-cheol Concert “Request Show” Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 3 & 7 pm. W66,000 - W110,000. sori21.co.kr 063-270-8000 March 10th Clamu Philharmonic Orchestra Regular Concert Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 7:30 pm. sori21.co.kr 063-270-8000

JEOLLA PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance

Sport & Fitness

Gwangju International Center gic.or.kr 062-226-2733 Gwangju Blog gwangjublog.com Inside Jeonju insidejeonju.com The Jeonju Hub thejeonjuhub.com

Dozens of volleyball and basketball games are scheduled for this month. Volleyball games are listed on the website at kovo.co.kr (mostly Korean, though English schedules are also listed). Men’s basketball games are listed on kbl.or.kr (Korean only) and women’s games at wkbl.or.kr (also Korean only).

Religious Services Antioch Presbyterian Church Jeonju andiok.kr 063-274-3228 Iri Joongang Church Iksan 0 63-851-4311 Musang Temple Muan-gun 042-841-6084

Ongoing Hwasan Ice Rink Get out on the ice! Be sure to bring your own gloves. Wansangu, Jeonju. 9 am - 6 pm. Entrance fee W3,000. Skate rental W2,000. jjss.or.kr 063-239-2578

Hotels/Accommodations Gwangju Youth Hostel 062-943-4378 Ramada Plaza Gwangju ramadagwangju.com 062-717-7000

2012 K-League March 3rd Jeonbuk vs Seongnam 3 pm March 16th Jeonbuk vs Jeonnam 7 pm March 30th Jeonbuk vs Daegu 7:00pm at Jeonju World Cup Stadium Gwangju Spring Flowers Exhibition During this exhibition, expect to participate in interesting performances, classes about flowers, and activity programs. Kim Daejung Convention Center in Gwangju. 10 am - 6 pm. Children W3,000, adults W5,000. flowershow.kr 062-611-2000

Radio TBS eFM Gwangju FM 98.7 US Armed Forces Network Gunsan AM 1440/FM 88.5 Gwangju FM 88.5

March 4th Jeonnam vs Gangwon 3 pm March 24th Jeonnam vs Gyeongnam 3 pm at Gwangyang Football Stadium

Live Music Venues Bars/Lounges/Pubs Art & Travel Cafe Jeonju Open mic nights every Wednesday from 9 pm. Facebook group, 011-9437-0208 Deepin Jeonju Popular expat bar with Texas Holdem on Sundays. 019-9646-1028 Led Zeppelin Art Space Jeonju Hosts underground bands both expat and Korean. cafe.daum.net/k250073 018-607-6321 Radio Star Jeonju Under the 7-11 in Junghwasan-dong. 011-9444-9609 Speakeasy Gwangju The fun never stops at this fantastic bar owned and operated by honest Irishman Derrek Hannon. speakeasygwangju.com 010-4713-3825 San Antonio Latin Bistro Suncheon Suncheon surprises with this Latinthemed restaurant and bar. Facebook group, pyroz@hotmail.com 061-724-2234

March 11th Gwangju vs Pohang 3 pm March 18th Gwangju vs Jeju 5 pm at Gwangju World Cup Stadium

Education & Conferences Ongoing GIC Talks English lectures on a wide range of subjects such as culture, history, politics, and art. Gwangju International Center. Sat 3 – 4:30 pm. Closed holidays. gic.or.kr 062-226-2733 March 1st Chonbuk Wedding Exhibition This exhibition enables brides and their guests the opportunity to meet with a

2012 KBO Baseball KIA at Gwangju Stadium 27th - 28th vs LG 31st vs Hanhwa

The Great Jeonju Pub Crawl Jeonju isn’t just about bibimbap and the Hanok Village. Check out the most popular spots where expats go to play after the sun goes down. D e e pi n This is the original watering hole, since 1997. A

downtown dive bar of sorts, Deepin is a great place to have a messy night without getting judged. Catch a sports game or get a card game going with a draft brew and their old school CD library of Western tunes. 010-5001-9695

Deepin

R adi o s tar The place to be for live music in Jeonju, hands

Deepinto Radiostar

Art & Travel/Samara

down. This is the hotspot for regular live rock and fundraisers. Smoke allergies? Get there earlier in the night. 010-9444-9609

D e e pi n t o Wine tastings, murder-mystery parties and Western-style

brunches on the weekend at this upscale coffee and wine bar adds sophistication to the scene with prices to match. Deepin’s younger sister since 2009. 063-282-2680

Lounge Fever

A r t & Trav e l / S amara Two names, one

eclectic Indian-style atmosphere that goes hand-in-hand with being the only hookah bar in town. Grab an in-house board game or poker set along with some cocktails, herbal tea, fine wine or premium brews. 011-9437-0208

Tip Looking to party rock on

a dance floor? Check out Musicbank, Juk 2, Club Lady First or Club E.M., all in the Chonbukdae district.

L o u n g e F e v e r This stylish new lounge is a favorite for casual drinks or weekend pre-gaming and after-parties. Savor the color-changing luminescent bar, fire shows, lounging in leather and an array of cocktails and spirits. 063-271-1929 Wor ds and photos by Baru n Sarkar

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March 17th Verbal Jint White Day Concert “You Look Good” Korean rapper Verbal Jint is holding a concert for White Day, the March holiday when men give women candy. Chonbuk National University Cultural Center in Jeonju. 6 pm.

variety of wedding industry suppliers in a relaxed and informative setting. Chonbuk National University Cultural Center in Jeonju. 9 am - 5 pm. Free. cnucc.chonbuk.ac.kr 063-270-2089

GYEONGSANG discovery

Hop on Board Boat Saenuri for a Tour of Busan Port

Words by Rhia n non S h e ph e rd

Busan is both Korea’s largest coastal city and home to the fifth busiest container port in the world, and there are perhaps few better ways to get a proper view of the place than from the ocean. Good news, then, that the Busan Port Authority is offering free boat tours of its lively downtown North Port for both Busan citizens and visitors to the city.

GYEONGSANG

eparting twice a week from next to Busan’s Domestic Passenger Terminal in Jungang-dong (중앙동), the complimentary forty-minute tour gives visitors an opportunity to see up-close and first-hand the workings and environment of the busy Busan Port. The port is responsible for handling approximately 75% of South Korea’s container import and export total and is engaged in business with over 500 ports in 100 countries around the world. Each of the 30 major global shipping companies – alongside over 100 others – call at the six dedicated container terminals of Busan Port. In 2011, more than 293 million tonnes of cargo were handled here, representing a record in the history of the port. Passengers aboard the tour boat are also able to witness the ongoing construction of the Busan Port Redevelopment Project, an $8 billion dollar venture that will see the old downtown harbor transformed into an ultra-moder n maritime tou r ist destination. T his new, environmentally friendly water64 | 10 Magazine March 2012

front area is to be split into six zones: the Port Terminal Zone, Complex Port Zone, Commerce and Business Zone, Maritime Culture Zone, IT, Image, Exhibition Zone and the Multiplex Urban Zone. The area also boasts natural parks, hotel complexes, leisure attractions and a new opera house. The small two-tiered passenger boat has both an indoor seating area and an outdoor platform, so that passengers can either shelter from the sea-wind or take their cameras outside to capture the surrounding mountains, sizeable port facilities, ongoing redevelopment and docked ships.

Tours are normally in Korean, but an English-speaking tour guide can be provided upon request. The tour guide talks passengers through the 40-minute trip, so that they may learn a little about the history of the port, its vital role in local and national economy, and the current changes taking place and the effects they are expected to have on both the port, city and country as a whole. While tours r un ever y Tuesday and Thursday at 2pm, other times can also be arranged to accommodate large groups of special guests. G e t t i n g Th e r e From Busan Station take a five minute taxi to 연안여객터미널 옆 수미르 공원. An easier alternative for nonKorean speaking visitors is to take the orange subway line (line one) and get off at Jungang-dong Stn. Take exit 10 and walk as if toward the Busan Immigration Office, turning right immediately after crossing the large intersection. After a two-minute walk along the harbor side of that road you will see the boat’s departure point on your left, between Busan’s Domestic Passenger Terminal and the docking place of the oldstyle ship Nurimaru. For more information or to book a free place on a Busan Port boat tour, call 051-999-3159.

GYEONGSANG calendar Art Ongoing Geert Jan Jansen and Ellen Van Baren Art Exhibition Dutch artist Geert Jan Jansen is influenced by Picasso, Warhol, and Appel, and his wife Ellen Van Baren is noted for her soft pencil drawings of Oriental women, birds, and flowers. Their artwork is on monthly rotation at the Netherland Art Gallery in Busan. 12 - 7 pm. Closed Mon. Free. english.busan.go.kr 051-741-3622 Through March 18th ASEAN-Korea Contemporary Media Art Exhibition: CROSS+SCAPE Twenty-seven photographers portray the unique cultural characteristics of the ten ASEAN countries. Goeun Museum, Main Building, Busan. Tue - Sun, 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. Free. goeunmuseum.org 051-744-3933

Shilla, the love story of Seondeok & Yongchun, and the Silla Road. Expo Cultural Center of the Gyeongju World Culture Expo. Tue - Sun 7 pm. Closed Mon. W20,000 – W50,000. sillamiso.chongdong.com 054-740-3800 Through March 11th Mozart Opera Rock: The Musical Korean performers present the musical Mozart Opera Rock, which originated from France. In this show, classical music morphs into opera rock, modern rock, and electronic rock. Keimyung Art Center. Weekdays 7:30 pm. Sat 3 pm & 7:30 pm. Sun & holidays 2 pm. 6:30 pm. Closed Mon. W50,000 - W120,000. kmuartcenter.kr 053-580-6600 March 16th - 25th

Through May 28th Truc Art Exhibit The French word “truc,” means trick. At the Truc Art Exhibit, you can, see, touch and experience 2D artwork that will “trick” you into thinking its 3D. Ariwon Museum in front of the Hilton Hotel in Gyeongju. 10 am - 8 pm. W12,000. trucart.com 054-745-8111.

Concerts

March 14th Violin Concert with Laurent Korcia Acclaimed French violinist Laurent Korcia will perform for the third time in Korea this White Day at the Andong Culture & Art Center. 7:30 pm. W30,000 - W50,000. andongart.go.kr 054-840-3600 March 24th Kim Gun-mo: 20th Anniversary Tour To celebrate his 20th anniversary as a singer, Kim Gun-mo will hold a concert at the Gimhae Art and Sports Center. 4:30 & 8 pm. W88,000 - W110,000. gasc.or.kr 1600-1602

Theater & Dance Ongoing Korean Music and Dance in Busan Every Saturday there are traditional Korean performances at the National Gugak Center in Busan. 4 pm. W8,000. busan.gugak.go.kr 051-811-0040 Miso II: Shilla, The Land of Gods This non-verbal performance illustrates the thousand-year history of Shilla with age-old Korean dance and music. Three acts touch upon the divine founding of

March 22nd - 24th Kyungnam Water Expo This exhibit focuses on the sustainable use of water and preparations for the future. CECO Changwon Convention Center. 10 am - 6 pm. Register online by March 16th. weexpo.org 055-246-0982 March 28th - 30th International Green Energy Expo Conferences about energy and climate change will be held along with trade booths. EXCO in Daegu. W10,000. Free admission if you register online. energyexpo.co.kr 053-601-5371

International Health Care & Medical Expo Focusing on wellness in an aging society. BEXCO in Busan. 10 am - 6 pm. Free. iwimexpo.co.kr 051-740-7336

Sports & Fitness Notre Dame de Paris The original cast and production team of the musical Notre Dame de Paris appear at Daegu Keimyung Art Center. Performed in English. Weekdays 7:30 pm. Sat 3 & 7 pm. Sun 2 & 6 pm. Closed Mon. W60,000 - W200,000. kmuartcenter.kr 053-580-6600

Family & Community Through March 4th Garuya, Garuya: Flour Fun Play, draw, and bake with flour. Various programs are available for children and parents. Daegu Cultural Center for Students. Mon - Fri 1:30 pm - 4 pm. Sat 10:10 am - 4:30 pm. Sun 10:10 am - 4 pm. W18,000. dccs.go.kr 02-738-8289 Happy Winter Festival: Season 3 Not just for children but parents, too! The expo has enormous flower and rainbow air bouncers, an amusement park for toddlers, and fun slides. Changwon Convention Center. 10 am - 7 pm. Adults W12,000, children W14,000. hfestival.co.kr 1588-4648 Through June 10th Dinosaur World Expo 2012 This expo is based on two topics from elementary and middle school textbooks: “Rain Saves the Earth” and “A Story of Layers and Fossils.” Goseong-gun. W8,000 - W15,000 dinoexpo.com 080-2006-114 March 8th – 12th Yeongdeok Snow Crab Festival Try various dishes made with Yeongdeok’s delicious snow crabs and take part in exciting programs such as a snow crab auction and snow crab fishing. Yeongdeokgun. crab.yd.go.kr 054-730-6114 March 9th - 11th Gumi Mom & Baby Expo This exhibition for moms-to-be and kids presents a variety of teaching materials for young learners. Gumico Exhibition Hall. Register online. gumibaby.co.kr 051-740-7704

Education & Conferences March 7th - 9th Preview in Daegu 320 companies will be participating in this international textile fair.

Ongoing Pohang Ice Rink Pohang’s exclusive ice rink with restaurants and a snack bar. 10 am - 6:30 pm. Admission: W4,500. Skate rental: W3,500. pohangicerink.com 054-242-0091 Susung Ice Rink Open throughout the year. Be sure to bring gloves. Snack bar available. Suseong-gu, Daegu. Mon - Fri 10 am - 5 pm, Sat & Sun 10 am - 7 pm. Admission: W5,000. Skate rental: W3,000. susungicerink.com 053-765-1300 Dozens of volleyball and basketball games are scheduled for this month. Volleyball games are listed on the website kovo.co.kr (mostly Korean, though some events are listed in English). Men’s basketball games are listed on kbl.or.kr (Korean only) and women’s games on wkbl.or.kr (also Korean only). 2012 K-League March 3rd Pohang vs Ulsan 3 pm March 17th Pohang vs Busan 5 pm March 30th Pohang vs Jeonnam 7:30 pm Pohang Steel Yard March 4th Daegu vs Seoul 3 pm March 18th Daegu vs Incheon 3 pm March 25th Daegu vs Ulsan 3 pm Daegu Stadium March 4th Sangju vs Gwangju 3 pm March 25th Sangju vs Pohang 3 pm Sangju Civic Stadium March 4th Gyeongnam vs Daejeon 5 pm March 17th Gyeongnam vs Sangju 3 pm Changwon Football Center March 10th Busan vs Jeju 5 pm March 24th Busan vs Gwangju 3 pm Busan Asiad Main Stadium March 11th Ulsan vs Gyeongnam 5 pm March 16th Ulsan vs Seongnam 7 pm March 31st Ulsan vs Sangju 3 pm Ulsan Munsu Football Stadium For more information about 2012 K-League, please visit kleague.com 2012 KBO Baseball Lotte Giants at Sajik Stadium 17th - 18th vs Doosan 1 pm 29th - 30th vs Nexen 1 pm 31st vs SK 1 pm Samsung Lions at Daegu Stadium 31st vs Doosan 1:00 pm For more information about 2012 KBO Baseball, please visit koreabaseball.com

Gyeongsang Radio Stations TBS eFM Busan FM 90.5 American Forces Network Jinhae AM 1512 / FM 88.5 Daegu AM 1080 / FM 88.5 Pohang AM 1512 Waegwan AM 1080 / FM 88.5

Medical Services Centum Eco Clinic Busan Reliable medical care from a doctor specializing in ENT, internal medicine and pediatrics. Located in the shopping center of the Centum Park Apartments in Haeundaegu, Busan. 051-731-1522

Hotels/Accommodations 4 – 5 Star Hotels Busan Lotte Hotel 051-810-1000 Novotel Ambassador 051-743-1234 Seacloud 051-933-1000 Daegu Novotel Ambassador 053-664-1101 Hostels Busan Arpina 051-740-3228 Zen Backpackers 010-8722-1530

Bars/Lounges/Pubs Busan Aligote Wines, cheese platters, and excellent service. Haeundae. 6 pm – 3 am. 051-731-3322 Basement Open mic nights on Tuesdays and parties galore. 011-9294-2391 Fuzzy Navel Great drinks and great Mexican food as well. 011-1757-6349 The HQ Bar Kyungsung’s only foreignerowned bar with sports and dart games. thehqbar.com Rock ‘n’ Roll House Western-style bar with darts and pool and a great view of Haeundae. 051-742-5553 Sosa Bar A cozy latin bar close to Pusan National University. 051-513-0070 Wolfhound The same classic food and drinks from the Seoul location, but right on Haeundae Beach. 051-746-7913 Daegu Ping Bar Great drinks, a pool table, and music upon request. Samdeok Catholic Church. 7 pm - 5 am. withhyk@hanmail.net 053-422-7708 Jinju Soundgarden Behind Gyeongsang National University. soundgarden. cyworld.com, zakkie@hanmail.net 055-753-2248, 010-6478-2248 (owner)

Restaurants Busan Ganga Indian Opposite Haeundae Beach. ganga.co.kr 051-740-6670 Gecko’s Western Perched on lovely Haeundae Beach at the Pale de CZ, you can get all of that authentic Western food you’re used to back home, and you’ll find bartenders who know how to mix a real margarita. 051-747-3069 Il Sole Italian Quality food with a great view of Haeundae Beach. 051-747-4253 Samarkand Russian Uzbeki restaurant serving kebabs, soups and stews. Busan Station. 051-581-4050 Daegu Berkeley Italian 053-421-8577 Buy the Book Western This bookstore and café is your source for free yoga, theater, and parties. Downtown Daegu. Open weekends. buythebookcafe@yahoo.com Café Francesco Italian Near Rodeo Street. 053-252-9625 Dijon French Up-market French and Mediterranean cuisine. 053-422-2426 Hami Mami’s American One of Daegu’s best brunches. 50m from the US base. 8 am – 10 pm. 053-475-5242

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March 8th Morning Concert: Waltz, The Sounds of Spring The Morning Concert takes you on a journey through the romantic sounds of spring with famous opera arias and waltzes performed by a soprano, tenor, baritone, and pianist. 11 am. W18,000 includes a sandwich and coffee or tea. gasc.or.kr 055-320-1234

March 19th - 21st Nuclear Energy Korea BEXCO in Busan. 19th 10:30 am - 6 pm. 20th 10 am - 6 pm. 21st 10 am - 5 pm. Free. Register online. nekorea.kr 051-740-3420

March 29th - April 1st Busan Housing Interior Exhibition BEXCO in Busan. 10 am - 6 pm. W3,000. livingexpo.co.kr 051-740-7705

The Centenary of Chung In-sung’s Birth Chung was one of Busan’s first-generation photographers. Historic pictures show how Busanites used to live. Goeun Museum, New Building, Busan. Tue - Sun, 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. Free. goeunmuseum.org 051-746-0055 Through March 31st Memory of Place Seven Korean artists express their concept of place through the artwork on display here. Cyan Art Museum in Yeongcheon-si. Mon - Fri 10:30 am - 7 pm. Sat & Sun 10:30 am – 6:30 pm. cyanmuseum.org 054-338-9391

EXCO in Daegu. 10 am - 6 pm. Register online. previewin.com 053-560-6520

JEJU CALENDAR Art Through March 6th Go Yong-seok Private Exhibition Jeju Culture and Art Center. jejuculture.or.kr 064-710-7605

Performances Ongoing Changing Faces Performance In this famous Chinese performance, actors change their masks without touching them. Samgukji Land, Jocheon-eup, Jeju-si. 9:40, 10:50 am, 2:40 pm. Adults W12,000, teens W10,000, children W8,000. jeju.to 064-712-9961 Circus World Happy Town. Andeokmyeon, Seogwipo-si. Reservations required. jejuartcenter.com 064-712-9961 Elephant Show You don’t have to go to Southeast Asia to see an elephant. Andeok-myeon, Seogwipo-si. 10:30 am, 2:30, 4:30 pm. Adults W15,000, teens W12,000, children W9,000. jeju.to 064-792-1233

discov er y

A Tour of Gwaneumsa Temple It seems no matter how much research you do or how many travel books you buy and (maybe) read, some of the greatest sites found when traveling are simply stumbled upon. If you follow those brown “tourist attraction” signs instead of some guide book, you can find places like Gwaneumsa Temple. Gwaneumsa Temple is located off Highway 1131 on the northeast side of Mount Halla. The original temple is believed to have been built during the Tamna Dynasty (476 BC – AD 1005) but was destroyed during Joseon Dynasty rule in the early 1700s along with many other Buddhist temples on Jeju. The structures you can see today were rebuilt in 1912. Gwaneumsa Temple was also an important structure during the April 3rd riots that occurred on Jeju in 1948. Despite its destructive history, Gwaneumsa Temple today is one of the most awe-inspiringly beautiful and peaceful locations on the island. As soon as you reach the parking lot you see a giant Buddha welcoming you to this history-rich temple. After passing through the Bulimun Gate, a two-minute walk along a Buddha- and lantern-lined stone pathway leads you to the temple and seminary buildings. Here, take a break at the small reflection pond. After poking your head in the temple to catch a glimpse of serenity, you can walk around the temple grounds and admire the Sanshinak Pavilion where another large Buddha sits surrounded by an amphitheatre of his peers. If you’re up to it, you can even walk along the pathway up the hill to discover older temple buildings and enjoy natural scenery enveloping the complex. The beauty and tranquility that Gwaneumsa Temple and the surrounding landscape offers are one-of-a-kind and well worth the exploration it may take to get there. G e t t i n g Th e r e

Follow Highway 1131 to the northeast side of Mount Halla. Follow the tourist attraction signs for Gwaneumsa Temple.

Wor ds and shots by M ary R ager- Su mm ers

66 | 10 Magazine March 2012

Pianist Go Sang Hee are pairing up for a performance at Aramuse Hall. aramusehall.com 064-754-4695 March 27th The Night of Bach Concertos Aramuse Hall. aramusehall.com 064-754-4695

Sport & Fitness 2012 K-League March 4th Jeju vs Incheon March 24th Jeju vs Suwon Jeju World Cup Stadium at 3 pm

JEJU ISLAND Theme Park

Fanta-Stick: The Musical This comic musical draws upon gugak (traditional Korean music), and throws in some contemporary touches. Joongmoon FantaStick Theatre. 8 pm. W40,000 - W50,000. ticket.interpark.com 064-739-7781 Jump In its second decade, this popular martial arts comic performance shows no signs of slowing. Halla Art Hall at Cheju Halla College. Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun & holidays 8 pm. Closed Mon. W40,000 - W50,000. hijump.co.kr 064-749-0550 Mongolian Horseback Show Try not to dwell on those bad memories of riding horses at summer camp and stay focused on the amazing tricks of these horseback performers. Jorangmal Town in Seogwipo-si. 9:50, 11 am, 3 pm. Adults W12,000, teens W8,000, children W8,000. jejushow.co.kr 064-712-9961 Kimnyoung Maze Park The challenge is the thrill of the search and the reward is the taste of success in ringing the bell! San 16, Kimnyoung-ri, Gujwa-eup, Jejusi, Jeju-do. jejumaze.com 064-782-9266

Radio Arirang Radio Jeju City: FM 88.7 Seogwipo: FM 88.1

Restaurants

Nanta Started a decade ago, this nonverbal performance is a feast for the ears that turns ordinary kitchen pots and pans into a rhythm section. Jeju Media Center in Jeju City. 90 min. Sun 8 pm, Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 8 pm. W40,000 - W50,000. nanta.i-pmc.co.kr 064-723-8878 Seolmundae: Circus Musical Dramatic circus musical Seolmundae is based on old Jeju legends. Jeju Artrium. 5 & 7:30 pm. W16,000. jejuartcenter.com 1577-9575

Concerts March 3rd “Years of Youth” Concert Eight famous singers from the 70s to late 90s are having a concert at the Jeju Art Center. 4 & 7:30 pm. W77,000 - W99,000. arts.jeju.go.kr 064-753-2209 March 11th Boo Yun-jeong, Go Sang-hee Duo Recital Cellist Boo Yun Jeong and

Bagdad Cafe Indian. Delicious, authentic Indian food made from local ingredients in a gorgeous atmosphere. Near City Hall in Jeju City 064-757-8182 Dom Jang Japanese. Spectacular sushi in several locations all over the island. The best atmosphere is in Jungmun. 064-738-2550 Island Gecko’s Western. A varied menu of terrific Western food, plus maybe the best cocktails and service on the island. The BBQ nights every weekend will blow you away with ribeye steak, sausages, and more for only W19,000. Jungmun. 064-739-0845 geckosterrace.com The Plate This modern bistro serves up a great American-style hamburger along with other Thai dishes. 064-746-8008 Zapata’s Mexican. Find it behind Burger King near Jeju City Hall. 064-722-3369

Medical Services Dr. Chung’s Pediatric Clinic chung56@pednet.co.kr 064-748-1546 Hanna Women’s Clinic hannaobgy.com 064-711-7717 E-Pyeonhan Dental Clinic e-pretty.co.kr 064-758-2800

NETWORKING CALENDAR E dited by j e ss ica L e e and dav i d carru t h

Photos taken by Dylan Goldby at the Café du Commerce, a French-themed networking event and affordable allyou-can-eat buffet held each month at the Novotel Ambassador Gangnam.

Tuesday, March 6th SIWA Newcomers’ Meeting A newcomer’s meeting is an opportunity for newcomers to get together in a small group along with some long-time Seoul residents and share experiences, get good tips about life in Seoul and meet new people. M-Plaza Seoul Global Cultural Center. 10:30 am. W10,000. Send an e-mail to newcomers@siwapage.com to sign up. siwapapge.com Wednesday, March 7th EUCCK Global Job Fair in Busan If you’re looking for a job, you can’t go wrong meeting recruiters with companies including Novotel, Rolls Royce Marine, and Philip Morris. BEXCO Convention Hall 1F. 2 – 6 pm. eucck.org

Thursday, March 8th FKCCI Café du Commerce Enjoy an informal French atmosphere at the monthly Café du Commerce networking event at the Novotel Ambassador Gangnam. Food is served from 6:30 – 8:30 pm, but guests are welcome to stay later than that to listen to the live band. W26,000 includes the all-you-can-eat buffet, cheeses, and wines. fkcci.com Monday, March 12th KGCCI Stammtisch Oakroom at the Millennium Seoul Hilton. 6 – 9 pm. korea.ahk.de

Tuesday, March 13th SIWA Hiking at Bukhansan National Park As you hike, look below for amazing views of Seoul and up to see beautiful granite rock formations. Note that this hike will require some physical exertion. Meeting point TBA. 9:30 am - 2:30 pm. Members W5,000, non-members W8,000. siwapage.com Wednesday, March 14th BIWA Monthly Luncheon Includes a spring fashion show. Held at the Novotel Ambassador Hotel in Busan. For more details, visit the website. biwa-korea.com Wednesday, March 14th Linked Seoul March Wine Down Wednesday Guests at this monthly event can indulge in free-flowing wine as they make important new connections. To be held at Exclusivo restaurant in Gangnam. 7 – 10 pm. linkedseoul.org Saturday, March 17th RASKB Yeoju Tour Join the Royal Asiatic Society Korea Branch as it tours important sites in Yeoju including Shilluk Temple, the birthplace of Empress Myongsong, and King Sejong’s tomb. To depart from the Yongsan Post Office. 8:30 am - 7 pm. W43,000 members, W51,600 non-members. raskb.com Monday, March 19th ANZA Monthly Global Café Each month, the ANZA Global Café features a

speaker of interest to the expat community. Paris Grill Bar, Grand Hyatt Hotel. 10 am noon. Members W10,000, non-members W15,000. RSVP at anza.com.

Tuesday, March 27th BASS Monthly Coffee Join us for our regular monthly get together. Newcomers welcome. The Seoul Club, Cheesman room. 10am noon. Members W10,000, non-members W14,000. For further details, please visit britishseoul.com. Wednesday, March 28th BIWA Monthly Coffee Morning Build your circle of friends in Busan at this monthly meeting held at the Starbucks on the 2nd floor of the Pale d’CZ building. 9:30 – 11:30 am. biwa-korea.com Wednesday, March 28th SIWA Working Women Network Professional women often can’t make the midday meetings. This evening get together is planned with them in mind. Held the final Wednesday of the month. Contact michellefarnsworth@ live.com for details on this month’s event. ANZA BASS BIWA EUCCK FKCCI KGCCI RASKB SIWA

Australian & New Zealand Association of South Korea British Association of Seoul Busan Int’l Women’s Association European Union Chamber of Commerce Korea French Chamber of Commerce and Industry in Korea Korean-German Chamber of Commerce and Industry Royal Asiatic Society Korea Branch Seoul Int’l Women’s Association

To list your event, contact David Carruth at calendar@10mag.com or 070-7464-4625 10 Magazine March 2012 | 67

NETWORKING CALENDAR

Thursday, March 8th BASS Catch-up Coffee Join us for a relaxed coffee and chat and pick up invaluable advice and tips about living in Seoul. Newcomers are welcome. Held at the Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf (located diagonally from the Hamilton Hotel, Itaewon). 10 am - noon. RSVP at events@britishseoul.com

Tuesday, March 13th Deutscher Club Stammtisch More information will be announced soon. RSVP to Beatrice Hunt at vizepraesidentin@deutscherclubseoul.de.

A Trip to the Seoul International Book Fair Wor ds by N. B . A r m st rong I llust r ation by Leroy K uci a

t was a last minute decision to go to the Seoul International Book Fair. I had no business there; I just fancied a look around. To add luster to the last minute arrogance, I decided to fly. A: Went to the Seoul International Book Fair yesterday. B: Really? A: Yeah, last minute decision. Flew up mid morning. B: …cool. That’s how the conversation would go. Getting a taxi outside my apartment complex hasn’t been a problem this century. It’s as if they emerge from an assembly line around the corner. Within ten minutes, however, I was forced to consider the ultimate humiliation: walking to get one. I was starting to get a little behind. Fortunately, my taxi driver was willing to help. The journey was like one of those adverts in which the car finds a daring back route to beat the jams, except we didn’t need the back route. The rest of the traffic was respectfully scared. I could relax and, for the first time ever, watch the clock instead of the meter. Then: “Son

of a…” driver and passenger said in two different languages, as an eight-lane snarl up hoved into view. Now, I was watching the meter again. I could buy the plane ticket at the bus station. The hour-long limousine bus journey to Gimhae airport would leave me fifteen minutes between disembarkation and boarding. Cutting it that fine would sound even cooler. Yeah, I’ll take a single to Gimpo. Sit down. Think. Is fifteen minutes really enough? The limousine bus driver strolled in to make small talk with the counter assistant. She informed him of my situation. Their next conversation involved him telling her in about eleven different ways that I’m not going to make it. He couldn’t have been more negative if he had been wearing an upside down smiley mask. And by now I was thinking he would deliberately drive slowly so as not to lose face. He had too much invested in my failure. The assistant gave me a full refund and pointed to the train station next door. I vaulted its outdoor escalator. But the look on the station assistant’s face said that we’d both noticed the gigantic LED clock stating that the next train to Seoul was to depart in two minutes. The older, maler ticket vendor to her side solemnly confirmed there to be insufficient time to process the sale and make it to the platform. He was obviously in league with the limousine bus driver and I began looking for people to blame. It surely couldn’t be my fault. The last remaining option, which removed all cool from the journey, was the bus to Seoul. Do I need to tell you what happened? Briefly: a taxi drove straight past me as if I was hailing it naked and when I did arrive at the station I’m sure I saw the bus driver smirk, point, and light up as he watched me get smaller in his wing mirror. There usually comes a moment in such a train of events when resignation intervenes and you step outside the incident to recall the important things in life. Not in this one. Going back home, in my third taxi of the hour, I spent the whole journey working out how I could cause the maximum amount of destruction without getting arrested. Turns out, there’s not that much you can actually do. The only thing I learned was that those two puffs of nostril steam that appear when characters are angry in cartoons are not inventions of the animator. And also later, online, that the book fair had taken place two weeks earlier. This piece is excerpted from the author’s upcoming book A Few Korean Lessons.

Discover Why Itaewon Rocks! What are the new restaurants? What happy hours are tonight? Is there a quiz night tonight? Where can I get brunch? Brazilian? Italian? American? Moroccan? Pick your cuisine.

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