10 Magazine 2012 April by 10 Media

Art • Theater • Concerts • Film • Community • Fitness • Dine & Drink • Nightlife • TRAVEL

Korea awaits! • April 2012 VOL. 4 NO. 7

외국인의 한국생활 노하우

Find France in Korea

Plus 10 More International Cultural Centers

Interview with Shin Kyung-sook Korean Cuisine Ssam Bap Baseball Season Begins 5 Charms of Qingdao

Printed using 100% soy ink.

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April 2012 vol. 4 No. 7 Nationwide Calendar

4 From the Editor / Shot of Korean

38 Movies This Means War, Safe House, and Planet of Snail

6 Contributors 8 Letters / Blog of the Month / Korea by the Numbers

39 TV Music and Lyrics on MBC Music 40 Music Veronica Falls, Future Ghosts and Miss A

9 Reader’s 10 10 10 Questions Shin Kyung-sook

Books Tea Table Books

41 Tech Cameras to Go

Regional Calendar

Joe McPherson

Dylan Goldby

42 Seoul Food Review Bean Table

12 History Boys Will Be Boys

44 Seoul Discovery Parks of Seoul

14 Taste of Korea Ssam Bap

48 Seoul Editor’s Pick Nonverbal Performances

16 Korean Destination Cherry Blossom Festivals 18 Sports & Fitness Baseball Season Begins 20 Sports & Fitness The CrossFit Open 22 Asian Destination Qingdao 30 Hotel & Resort News 32 Expat News 34 Gastronomic News 35 In the Kitchen Sebastiano Giangregario 68 A Happy Ending

52 Seoul Discovery Kettlebell Training Goethe Institut

See the World Through Korea’s Cultural Centers 26 Authentic French cuisine, traditional Mongolian games, and Japanese kimonos – you don’t need thousands of dollars in airfare and hotel bills to experience this, as it’s all here in Seoul! Our list of Korea’s international cultural centers includes information on language classes, cultural events, and loads of helpful resources.

59 Gangwon Discovery Haesindang Park 60 Gyeonggi Editor’s Pick Ballantine’s Championship

62 Chungcheong Editor’s Pick Paragliding in Danyang 66 Jeju Discovery The Black Flag of Genghis Khan

Dynamic Rhetoric

he Korean government, Korean people, and even the occasional foreign resident of Korea are fond of saying that Korea is a “dynamic” place. But what exactly does that mean? I refer you to Mr. Webster (m-w.com). “2. a: Marked by usually continuous and productive activity or change b: energetic, forceful” And here we find that this is actually one of those rare occasions when the rhetoric happens to approximate reality. Examples of Korea’s combination of rapid change and vibrant energy are everywhere to be seen. The changing skyline, transit and other infrastructure we see transform each year, the pace of change in shops, restaurants and neighborhoods, and even the constantly transforming cultural attitudes - most recently expressed in the recent spate of films about multicultural families in a country that only a few years ago was still so proud to be 단일민족 (a single race). Recently I got to see another manifestation of this dynamism when I went to visit Stefano Ruzzo, the GM at the Namhae Hilton and author of this month’s Jeolla Discovery, and meet the people in charge of the 2012 World Expo in Yeosu. I think for many of us who have lived for a long time in Seoul, the addition of the word Yeosu to that phrase can give us the image of a small-town event which I found out is a complete misconception. As with all World Expos, this is going to be an event of gigantic proportions - they’re really building the equivalent of a small city down there. Direct KTX trips from Yongsan Station in Seoul to Yeosu have now been added and their frequency will be increased from the current five departures per day to fifteen per day during the Expo. Did I mention that the Expo grounds are right across the street from the train station? Frankly, I find it hard to believe it will be worth the massive investment they are making in the end, but hey, I’m going to enjoy it while it’s here. Recently a friend of mine (thanks Mr. Van Pelt) also arranged

a trip to the horse races as a boys’ day out. And dynamic Korea delivered again. Although the crowd displayed a distinct Asian gambling attitude (most of the visitors’ priority was to make money rather than enjoy the day with friends), the building was a brilliant and relatively new facility and the staff were friendly and helpful. They made sure that the people in the information booth spoke a little English or Japanese. We enjoyed a great day at the races with friends followed by one of the best Hanwoo beef restaurants I’ve ever experienced. I’ll certainly be back. If you want to find it yourself, look for Hanwoo Arirang near Sonbawi Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). And the building it was in was obviously quite new. Steph en R ev er e M anaging E ditor sr@10mag.com

A Shot of Korean by Stephen Revere 포기하다 [ Po-gi-ha-da ] To give up When you want to shorten it, and give up really quickly, you can just say: 포기! [ Po-gi ] I give up! Or you can tell someone that they should stick it out.

포기하지마! [ Po-gi-ha-ji-ma ] Don’t give up! Or, if someone already gave up and you want to tell your other friend, then you can just add on past tense thanks to the frequent lack of subjects in Korean sentences: 포기했어. [ Po-gi-haess-eo ] S/he gave up. (Also: I/they/we gave up.)

This month’s Hanja.

“jung” 中 central 가운데 “중” 중국 中國 China (literally, “middle kingdom”) 중학교 中學校 middle school/junior high school 중소기업 中小企業 medium and small businesses 중급 中級 intermediate (middle level)

Check out Survival Korean and Survival Korean: Basic Grammar Skills for more Korean lessons from 10’s Managing Editor, Stephen Revere. 4 | 10 Magazine April 2012

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Trapped in wanderlust, Aaron J JacksonCrabb (p. 59) has been living and traveling outside his own country since 2002. Raised in America. Studied in Australia. Fished in Fiji. Dived in Thailand. Married in Canada. Taught ESL in Japan and South Korea. Drove in Vietnam and caught food poisoning in the Philippines. Always willing and ready to go on assignment, anywhere at any time, his knapsack is pre-packed and sitting by the door.

Ian Henderson (p. 66) hails from the Cape Fear area of North Carolina and has been in Korea for the past three years, keeping his phonics skills well-honed. He can also be found scavenging for bits of the extreme music underground, craft microbrews, and anywhere documentaries are screened.

Contribute to 10 Magazine 10 Magazine is currently looking for contributors all over Korea to provide photography and articles. If you’re interested in gaining valuable writing experience and sharing your experience here with readers all across Korea, contact us at 10mag.com/contribute. 6 | 10 Magazine April 2012

Karin McDonald (p. 54) is a producer, writer and consultant who has made her home in northern California, Washington, D.C., London, and Edinburgh. Currently, she teaches business at a university in Seoul and lives in Bundang. She enjoys all kinds of sports and exercise, especially if they involve pets, kids and parks. Darrell Slater (p. 18) has been calling Gwangju his home for the past two years of his life. He can’t see a reason to leave just yet. He loves everything sport reading, writing, playing, watching, betting. You will find him on weekends hacking his way around golf courses around the globe in his local screen golf. Korea has been kind to him and his golf swing. Mike Stewart (cover) came to Korea in 2003 and has been an active member of the Seoul art scene for most of that time with nearly 30 gallery exhibitions under his belt. He’s the owner and director of Jankura Artspace, an art academy where he hosts life drawing sessions and art workshops and also teaches painting and drawing to adults. mstewartprintmaker.com/jankura.htm

Grace Sun (p. 22), from Sydney, Australia is our very own fashion editor and a long-time expat in Asia. She brings years of writing experience to our fashion and lifestyle column, as well as informative pieces on family life, travel and beauty. Writer, entrepreneur, mother and public relations professional – it’s a mouthful but she has a big appetite. Contact Grace with your story ideas at fashioneditor@10mag.com.

Managing Editor Production Editor

Jai-yoon Kim jaiyoonkim@10mag.com Stephen Revere sr@10mag.com David Carruth pe@10mag.com

Contributors Khaled Allen, Michael Berry, Dominique Buck, Mary Byrns, Jessica Coyle, Matthew Crawford, Samantha Dix-Hill, Briana Doble, Choi Eungyu, Andrew Farrell, Ken Fibbe, Teresa Franklin, Ian Henderson, Nina Hoffman, Aaron J JacksonCrabb, Chelsie Kozera, Leroy Kucia, Stafford Lumsden, Paul Matthews, Karin McDonald, Joe McPherson, John Mensing, Charles Montgomery, Robert Neff, Anna Orzel, Rob Ouwehand, Anna Pusack, Milgem Rabanera, Stefano Ruzza, Barun Sarkar, Darrell Slater, Grace Sun, Soyeon Kimberly Yoon Art Director Photographer

Hugh Lee hl@10mag.com Dylan Goldby dg@10mag.com

Coordinator

Jessica Lee coordinator@10mag.com

Interns

Teresa Franklin Su-yeon Lee Hyeon-jeong Paik

Marketing Inquiries Calendar Events Contributions Comments Subscriptions

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Printer

Tara TPS. Co., Ltd A loaf of bread, a jug of wine - and a photo shoot at the Institut Français in downtown Seoul. Dylan Goldby handled the photography, while cover models Sang-tae Kim and Hannam Nam donned berets and grabbed a copy of Le Monde to put readers in an appropriately French mood. The artwork of the Eiffel Tower and Notre Dame Cathedral in the background was drawn by the talented Mike Stewart.

The views expressed in these articles do not necessarily represent the views of 10 Magazine. 10 Magazine April 2012, Vol. 4 No. 7 등록번호: 용산 라 00184 (Registration: Yongsan Ra 00184) Address 서울시 용산구 이태원로 211 한남빌딩 10층 10th floor Hannam Buildling 211 Itaewon-ro, Seoul 140-893 Phone 02-3447-1610 www.10mag.com 10 Magazine is published monthly by 10 Media Inc. © All Rights Reserved.

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DEPARTMENTS le t t ers

The Balancing Act

The print media business can be competitive. I can understand the demands of it since my deceased father was a publisher/editor of a newspaper. So you really have to position yourself in the market and get a fair share of the business to survive and thrive. I commend you for the ethics that the magazine believes in. Integrity is rare these days. Honestly, I do not pay attention if the article was a paid endorsement or otherwise. Of course, if it is being featured all the time then it will be pretty obvious. I do not see anything wrong with writing a paid article such as a review IF the featured article is really a reputable establishment and has value - high quality, reasonable rates, great service, etc. If the paid endorsement is worth it in all aspects and the article did not come out as bias... it should be alright. By the same token, if the magazine is financially sound then one should be free to write about what you really care about... where your heart is - not what

is being dictated. It is a healthy balance with commercialism and art and is doable. Retain this kind of freshness and honest communication and we will understand the challenges without losing the respect and confidence of the readers. Thank you. Duchesne Tolaram-Crawford Yongsan, Seoul T h i s wa s th e ove r w h e l m i n g re a d e r response to editor Stephen Revere’s column last month about the struggle between adver tising and editorial in Korea. Most people pointed out that we’re not the New York Times here, and that a little sponsored content included is not only not offensive, but is often helpful. They generally felt that Steve’s friend from Hong Kong was right. As you recommend, Duchesne, we’ll be careful about what we include, and be sure that it is of value to readers first and foremost, and if it meets that criteria then it can run in our magazine. And as always, we want to hear from you whenever you want to tell us how we can do better (or what you happened to like). Send your thoughts to comments@10mag.com. 10

Korea by the Numbers

174

Number of criminal cases involving drug smuggling in 2011. The drugs weighed 29.3 kg and were valued at W62 billion, which represented increases of 110% and 220% from 2010, respectively.

600,000

The number of people who could potentially use the methamphetamines (18.3 kg) that were seized in these cases.

Number of drug smuggling cases that were traced back to China. The US accounted for 43 of the cases, Canada for 13, and England for 10, while 49 of the shipments came from other countries.

3,059

Number of grams of synthetic cannabis turned up by search and seizure in 2011. This figure was 605 in 2010 and a mere 30 in 2009. Usage of synthetic cannabis is increasing more rapidly than any other drug today. Source: Korea Customs Service, 2012

8 | 10 Magazine April 2012

Blog of the Month

Seeking Enlightenment about Korea’s Temples? Words by Rob Ouwehand

As spring, perhaps Korea’s most beautiful season, stretches into full blossom, adventurous blog readers may opt to spend time outside, instead of at a computer desk. Before they unplug entirely, Dale’s Korean Temple Adventures (daleskoreantempleadventures. blogspot.com) might help them choose their next destination. Author Dale has been living in and around Busan since 2003, and created this blog to introduce and interpret Korean temples to readers. Selections favor the south of the peninsula, and cover most of the famous and many of the less famous temples in Gyeongsang and Jeolla provinces. The detailed descriptions are augmented by some lovely photography of these beautiful, intricate buildings. For those to whom one old-fashioned wooden building looks pretty much like another, Dale has written a series of extremely useful explanations of different structures, designs, and artistic elements that set one temple apart from another. Such attention to detail enhances the entire temple experience. As many of Korea’s temples are up on mountainsides, visiting them often includes a bonus nature walk, making temple visits a perfect way to find a little peace and refreshment this spring. The Scores Content No other blogger is doing what Dale is doing right now. Half a point deducted for some posts running a little long; however, lovely photos break up the long posts. Layout Straightforward layout, but the links below the banner sort temples by rating and region. Professionalism Clean writing, rich, colorful photography, and an impressive archive after only a year.

THE READER'S 10

What Is Your Favorite Ethnic Cuisine?

hether or not Korean government pronouncements about the need for a multicultural society have had any effect, dining culture in Korea has definitely become more international in recent years. Our Reader’s 10 poll this month reflects that diversity. The poll covered eighteen kinds of world cuisine – from Mongolian to Moroccan – and the fact is that resourceful foodies can find restaurants carrying each of these cuisines throughout Korea (and especially in Seoul). Even these eighteen were not enough, as other voters expressed their love for Turkish, Malaysian, Brazilian, Swedish, and German eats in the “other” section. Looking at the poll results, we’ve gotta say that our choice of cuisines to feature in our Top 10 cover story in the February issue – Mexican, Indian, and Thai – was spot on. Just look at the top three positions in the poll! Clearly, we and our readers have a lot in common when it comes to our dining preferences. Of course, Korean food made a pretty respectable showing at number five, especially for a poll focused on foods that aren’t always that easy to locate in Korea. 10 9 8 7

French Chinese Japanese Middle Eastern

6 5 4 3

Greek Korean Italian Mexican

Tied for 1st Indian and Thai Mathematically inclined fans will know that this is the 28th poll that we have run in our Reader’s 10 series of surveys. It’s with some sadness that we announce that this has been our final poll. Since the first time we featured our online poll way back in January 2010, we’ve covered everything from the best Korean movies to your least favorite aspects of life in Korea. It has been a lot of fun, but we believe it’s time to offer something new to keep 10 Magazine fresh and relevant. So what’s next? You’re going to have to pick up a copy of the May issue to find out! 10 Magazine April 2012 | 9

10 Qu estions

Shin Kyung-sook

S H ot by Dy l a n G o l d by

Korean Novelist

Edited by Charles Montgomery, translated by David Carruth

n person, Shin Kyung-sook is modest and restrained, but there has been nothing modest or restrained about the success of her book Please Look After Mom (엄마를 부탁해). The book was named an Amazon top-10 book of the year while entering Amazon’s top 50 in literary sales, reached as high as number 14 on the New York Times Best Seller List, was chosen as an Oprah book of the month and won the Man Asia Literary Prize. To get to know this quiet dynamo of Korean literature, 10 Magazine sat down with Shin in a quiet café and asked 10 questions. 1. To what extent do you write for yourself, to what extent do you write with a Korean audience in mind, and to what extent do you write with an international audience in mind? I consider my audience as anyone who gives me the inspiration to write better fiction. I don’t give much thought to whether I’m writing for an international or Korean audience. Each time I write a story, what I am really focusing on is making the best story possible. As I spend most of my time anxiously wondering whether I will be able to finish the book, I’m not able to worry about who is actually going to read it. 2. Were you surprised by the international response to the English publication of “Please Look After Mom”? In all honesty, I was surprised. I believe that this response was caused by the fact that in the process of becoming modern, we have lost those human qualities that are symbolized by the word “Mom.” People today seem to share a sense of loss and longing for these qualities. Readers seem to have discovered themselves in the characters in the novel who are wandering in search of something precious that they have lost. 10 | 10 Magazine April 2012

3. How do you decide what you are going to write about? I devote my writing to finding the beauty and strength in humanity. To accomplish this, I have a couple of guidelines. First, I don’t want anyone to be hurt in any way whatsoever by what I write. Second, I want my books to help people look at old things in a new way. Third, I want people who have read my work to be touched and want to get closer to other people. These are the goals I consider as I choose my topics. 4. Can you tell us a little about the translation process with Kim Chi-young as she worked with you on “Please Look After Mom”? Chi-young Kim was the translator located by my agency. After the basic translation was completed, I had a long email correspondence with her and Robin Desser, the editor at the American publisher that published my book as we worked on bridging the cultural gap between Korean and English. I like to regard translation as a journey. Through the translator, the work I have written in Korean travels across borders and into another language. Of course, it is essential that the translation be good in order for the journey to be enjoyable for the reader. Kim Chi-young was able to accomplish this very well.

5. How has your life changed since you have become internationally famous? Literature has no borders. I don’t believe, for example, that American literature and French literature are actually separate. The only difference is that since writers speak different languages translation is necessary for communication to take place. In my case, Please Look After Mom is the only one of my books to have been released overseas, although I have published eight novels and seven short story collections here. I feel very pleased that my work, which before had only been available in Korean, can now be read outside Korea thanks to Please Look After Mom. I feel a very strong sense of liberation. As for my daily life, the only thing that has changed is that I get more interview requests from overseas journals and invitations to writing conferences. 6. Tell us a little bit about your writing process. I usually wake up at 3 am and write until 9 am. I follow this schedule because this is the time when I can be entirely alone, uninterrupted by anyone. When I’m not in the middle of a book, I use that time to plan future books, do some reading, write articles, or catch up on emails. Then at 9:30 I go to my Yoga class for an hour. Lunch is next, followed by a short nap, and in the afternoon and evening I meet people and go to concerts. This is what my typical day looks like. Of course, there are exceptions, but I always return to this daily pattern. 7. “Please Look After Mom” seems to look back with nostalgia on a more traditional Korean family structure. Are you nostalgic for the “good old days” of families and Korean society? The traditional family structure in Korean society no longer exists. Korean families today are really not much different from families all over the globe. We can’t go back to the past, and I don’t look for answers in the traditional family structure. We are no longer living in the time when family relationships were based purely on blood ties. As I see it, someone who lives with you is your family, even if they are not related to you at all. The thing that I miss is not the traditional Korean family structure but rather the human kindness, intimacy, and communication that we seem to have lost today. 8. Your next book is scheduled to be published in 2013. Can you tell us a little about this book and what your expectations are for its success? The English version of my book Somewhere a Telephone Is Ringing for Me (어디선가 나를 찾는 전화벨이 울리고) will be published under the title I’ll Be Right There. This work is a story about youth – a period which each of us has to pass through at some point. The story is about four young people who deal with tragic situations and fall in love with each other as they grow up. We’ve already finished the first phase of the translation. Just as with Please Look After Mom, the book will be published by Knopf. I hope it’s a success! 9. Readers are looking forward to your next work. Can you tell us a little bit about the next book you plan to write? In November 2011, my Korean publisher released a collection of seven short stories I’ve written entitled Ladies I Don’t Know (모르는 여인들). Sometime in the latter part of this year, I’m planning on starting another novel. That will probably be published in Korea around the beginning of next year. 10. What do you think of the future of Korean Literature? The greatest potential for Korean literature is found in young writers. Many of the younger generation today, regardless of what ideology they may adhere to, are publishing distinctive, original works. I believe that the very fact that there are so many young people writing today means that the future is bright. I hope that these writers’ works can be handed over to good translators (and publishers!) so that they can also speak to readers outside Korea. 10 Magazine April 2012 | 11

Boys Will Be Boys In this humorous anecdote from the turn of the 20th century, an American diplomat and a mob of Korean children strike up an unexpected friendship based on practical jokes.

orace N. Allen, the American minister to Korea from 1897-1905, found that his fondness for bicycle riding drew the attention of Korean children in his area, whom he described as being “mischievous as well as appreciative.” Allen liked to ride his bike in Seoul and the surrounding countryside. One spring day found him resting in “a pretty grove” outside of Seoul “that sheltered a tomb.” Allen leads us to believe that what happened next was purely by accident but, knowing Allen and his penchant for pranks, that seems questionable. A group of rambunctious boys were raking up pine needles and twigs to take back home for their family fires or to sell in the market and had not seen Allen take up his position behind the grave. Bald-headed and with most of his body hidden by the grave mound, the back of his head looked strikingly like

12 10 Magazine April 2012

Bikes, circa 1899

Words by Robert Neff Photos from the collection of Robert Neff

Gangnam / Myeongdong / Sadang / Mokdong / Yeomchang / Seogyo / Seoyeouido Wangsimni / Times Square / Seoul Station / Yongsan Station / Eunpyeong Seoul Finance Center / Myeongdong (ANEX) / Samseong (COEX) / Jongno Ilsan / Suwon Ingye / Bucheon Jungdong / Dongtan Megapolis / Pyeongtaek E-Mart Busan Lotte Dapartment (Gwangbok) / Busan Haeundae / Cheonan Sinbu Changwon / Gwangju Sangmoo / Ulsan / Incheon Concourse

Grave circa 1899 Balsan (OPEN: 13, Dec) / Daejeon Complex Terminal (OPEN: 20, Dec)

a skull. When Allen suddenly stood up and turned the horrified boys screamed in terror and fled, “leaving their tools, while the small ones, being outdistanced, howled in despair lest they be caught by the man rising from the dead.” One can easily imagine Allen laughing at the children’s fear, but his was not the last laugh. Bicycles at this time were still quite rare in Korea and the appearance of a Westerner astride these strange contraptions tended to inspire both curiosity and fear – especially in children. At a long narrow bridge just east of Seoul, Allen frequently encountered a group of children who eagerly awaited his arrival. Allen admitted that “it took some coaxing at first to induce these boys to trust themselves upon this strange machine, but when one had tried it and had ridden proudly over, ringing the bell all the way and smiling broadly through the grime on his happy face, there was no fear.” Fear turned to curiosity and the desire to prove to their peers that they too could conquer the strange wheeled contraption led to Allen being mobbed by the children all clamoring for their turn. Allen was actually quite proud of himself and decided to put his new found friendships to the test. Not too far from the bridge was “an ugly little ditch” that Allen could not cross except by dismounting and carrying his bike over it. He gathered some of the boys together, showed them a large flat stone, and, while handing out some coins to each boy, explained to them that he would like them to make a bridge over the ditch. The boys readily agreed and soon had a nice little bridge made from the stone and covered neatly with dirt. Finally, Allen’s dreaded nemesis, the ditch, had been conquered. On his return trip, Allen was relieved that he would not have to dismount. He raced down the hill and onto the little bridge, but instead of safely crossing it his front wheel fell through it and stopped the bike, sending him flying over the handle bars. “The little rascals had removed the stone and put in a bridge of twigs neatly covered with earth,” Allen recounted. “I could not see them but I knew they were looking and were enjoying me limping home along with a disabled wheel.” 10 Magazine April 2012 | 13

Valid through April 30th, 2012

A TASTE OF KOREA

Ssambap

쌈밥

Rice Wraps

W o r ds by St e p h e n R e v e r e

s with any non-Korean living here, I’m often asked what my favorite Korean food is. My general answer is ssambap (meaning literally “wrapped rice”). This is not to say that ssambap is the most delicious food in Korea (for that one I may have to go with January’s pork-loaded kimchi jjim) but ssambap has everything. It’s absolutely delicious, it’s healthy, it’s interactive and you get to be creative. Taking family and friends out for ssambap is such an enjoyable experience because you get to pick and choose the fresh green wrap, the meat, vegetables and sauces you’ll use in each individually wrapped bite. Each bite is a different taste and the terrific Korean custom of wrapping up a mouthful for your friend, family member or significant other is also a great way of sharing and showing your affection. There’s one main rule when eating ssambap: each preparation must be consumed in one bite. These aren’t spring rolls. They’re a little rice wrapped in lettuce with some sauces, veggies and perhaps meat. Yes, this will lead to occasional over-stuffing of the mouth and massive chipmunk cheeks but that’s just the way it’s done so don’t be too self-conscious about it. Everyone is doing it so it’s all good. Free refills are provided for the lettuce at most restaurants, so

if you’re a fan of fresh greens you can always wrap with two different kinds of lettuce rather than one. Good ssambap establishments will serve eight to ten different greens and the very best places will serve a dozen or more, leading to a situation where mixing and matching every green will leave you full before you can even try all the possible combinations. A personal favorite is mustard leaf or mustard greens (겨자잎, gyeojaip), which you can recognize from its distinctly curly edges. This leaf has a little kick to it, adding a freshness and spice that some can’t handle but many just love. The key to this dish, however, is actually the ssamjang (쌈장). This is the sauce that you will be putting on directly after the rice. It is made from either fermented bean paste (된장, doenjang) or red pepper paste (고추장, gochujang) or most commonly some combination of the two. Other common ingredients include soy sauce, sugar, sesame oil, and frequently meat of some sort, the most common being pork or a delicious little snail (우렁, ureong). It may sound scary, but it’s actually delicious and even healthy. Never let fear of the unique prevent you from at least trying something, or you will miss out on so many delicious experiences. Don’t let ssambap be one that you miss.

N e t i z e n ’ s P ick s Baek Jong-won’s Original Ssambap House 백종원 원조 쌈밥집

14 10 Magazine April 2012

If your ssambap experience is limited to lettuce and perilla leaves, you need to head to this restaurant for a little education. Order the Ssambap Set (W9,000) and get 30 kinds of wrappable greens as well as samgyeopsal, doenjang jjigae, mackerel, and other side dishes. Perhaps you, like one blogger we read, will admit that your visit revealed the true depth of your ignorance (and appetite). Branches throughout Korea. Original location : 165-15 Nonhyeon 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul. 02-548-7589

Jeju Mackerel Ssambap

제주 고등어 쌈밥 Hike along the Aewol Coastal Course in north Jeju, and you’re likely to run across this restaurant overlooking the ocean. Stop in – that’s what the locals do! – and chow down on the mackerel jorim made with three-year kimchi. Most orders will cost W28,000 for two, but if you’re lucky enough to be the first customers to show up each morning, you’ll get two orders of mackerel ssambap for free. 266-1 Hagwi 1-ri, Aewol-eup, Jeju. 064-799-9914

Lee Gyeong-jin’s Ureong Ssambap 이경진 우렁 쌈밥

In a country chockablock with health tonics and stamina boosters, the humble snail ureong would like your attention. Said to have 10 times the calcium, iron, and vitamins of the eel, another famous tonic food, ureong is a high-protein, low-fat option. Ssambap combos featuring this unlikely healthfood hero start at W9,000. Numerous branches in Seoul. Recommended: 89-4 Ogeum-dong, Songpa-gu, Seoul. 02-402-8838 Edited by Yang Joo-yeong and David Carruth

Kor ean Destination

Cheer Up with Cherry Blossoms From Feeling Blue to Seeing Pink Wo r d by Bria n a D o b l e

As we bid adieu to the stubborn Korean winter, we anxiously wait in budding anticipation for the blooming of beotkkot (벚꽃), or cherry blossoms; the single most tangible promise that spring is here to stay in Korea. Although life may prove to be hectic at times, there is no reason why you can’t find some time to stop and smell the roses, or cherry blossoms, somewhere in this beautiful, flowering country. If this past winter had you feeling blue or seeing red, then allow your heart and gaze to shift to the warmth of pink this spring.

AROUND THE PENINSULA A pril 1st - 10th

Jinhae Gunhangje Cherry Blossom Festival

Jinhae-gu, Changwon-si, South Gyeongsang Province Located on Korea’s namhae (남해), or southern coastline, Jinhae will host Korea’s most famous cherry blossom festival. The area has an estimated 340,000 trees, one of the largest groupings of cherry trees in the world, which over two million people come to see annually. Bring your camera: when the wind blows, the trees are so thick you would think it was raining cherry blossoms. First held in 1952 to commemorate Admiral Yi Sun-sin, who helped defeat the Japanese invasions over 400 years ago, the festival continues to honor him today by hosting a military band parade along with fireworks, concerts, and traditional music and dances. gunhang.changwon.go.kr 055-255-2341 A pril 6 th - 8 th

Hwagae Market Cherry Blossom Festival

Hadong-gun, South Gyeongsang Province Visitors to the “Wedding Path,” the 5 km road running from the Hwagae Market to Ssanggyesa Temple, will be able to see the cherry blossoms in full bloom. It’s said that if lovers walk down this road hand in hand, they will be married and live happily together forever. With or without a lover, the tree-lined walk will leave you amazed as the blossoms fall to carpet the seemingly never-ending lane in pink. toureng.hadong.go.kr/04festival/01_02.asp 055-880-2378 A pril 6 th - 8 th

King Cherry Blossom Festival

Jeju Island The famed King Cherry Tree, possessing the largest and most elaborate of all blossoms, will be in full bloom at the 21st annual festival held in the Seogwipo downtown area just off Yeonsam Road. These magnificent blossoms only stay in bloom for two to three days, so catch a glimpse while you can. culture.jeju.go.kr 064-728-2754 A pril 13 th - 15th

Cheongpunghoban Cherry Blossom Festival

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Jecheon-si, North Chungcheong Province Along with breathtaking views of the cherry blossoms on the shores of Cheongpunghoban Lake, you can also enjoy many exhibitions and performances at this festival. If you dare, try your hand at the bungee jumping and many other water sports that are offered on the lake. english.okjc.net 043-641-5114

CLOSER TO SEOUL A pril 13 th - 17 th

Hangang Yeouido Spring Flower Festival

This festival is one of the most popular destinations in Seoul on account of its famed “Cherry Blossom Tunnel.” The 5.7 km walk along Yungjungno Road will leave you in awe of the estimated 1500 cherry trees that border it. The trees are arguably even more impressive when they are lit up at night. With acrobats, street performances, art exhibitions, traditional Korean music, and even fireworks, there is no excuse not to come. Located near Yeouinaru Stn., line 5, ex. 1. tour.ydp.go.kr 02-2670-3140

Changgyeonggung Palace

One of the five grand palaces of the Joseon Dynasty, Changgyeonggung is beautiful all year around, but nothing can quite compare to the hundreds of cherry blossom trees in full bloom within the palace walls. It’s open from 9 am – 6 pm on weekdays and 9 am – 5 pm on weekends and holidays. Visitors should note that it is closed on Tuesdays. Hyehwa Station (line 4, ex. 4). Walk for 15 minutes, cross the road, turn left, walk 300 m to the palace walls, and follow these to the main entrance. jikimi.cha.go.kr 02-762-4868

Ilsan Lake Park

Alongside Korea’s largest artificial lake, this Flower Park will radiate with blossoms on all of its 1,800 cherry trees. Walk to Wolpajeong Pavilion located on the man-made island to see the highest concentration of trees in the park. Located 500 m from Jeongbalsan Stn. (line 3, ex. 2). lake-park.com 031-906-4557

More Seoul Spots for Cherry Blossom Viewing The Seoul locations in the following list may not be hosting any festivals per se, but they are all highly regarded as fine spots for flower viewing. • Children’s Grand Park Children’s Grand Park Stn. (line 7) • Gyeongbokgung Palace Gyeongbokgung Stn. (line 3, ex. 5) • Kyunghee University Campus Hoegi Stn. (line 1, ex. 1) • Namsan Park Chungmuro Stn. (line 3 & 4, ex. 2), Shuttle Bus 02 or 05 • Seokchon Lake & Lotte World Jamsil Stn. (line 2 & 8) • Seoul Forest Ttukseom Stn. (line 2, ex. 8) follow the signposts for 10 minutes to the park 10 T ip

Many of the links in this article lead to Korean websites. It’s often possible to find up-to-date information in English by visiting english.visitkorea.or.kr and searching 10 Magazine April 2012 | 17

Spor t s & Fit n ess

Baseball Fever Sweeps Korea W o r d s b y Da r r e ll Slat e r a n d A n d r e w Fa r r e ll

known as the Korean Series. The second place team awaits the winners of the 5-game play off between the third and fourth place teams for the right to contest the Korean Series. Games are played every day throughout the season except Monday, with 6:30 pm start times during the week and 5 pm on Saturdays and Sundays. Teams are only allowed two foreign players in their active roster, and this season every team has opted to use them for pitching staff. This goes to show that although this league can be high-scoring and entertaining, the coaches of Korean baseball teams hold foreign pitchers in much higher regard than their own. 2012 will also mark the final season when eight sides will vie for the KBO championship as from next year Changwon’s new expansion team, the NC Dinos, will enter the fray. The Dinos will spend this year in the second tier Futures’ League – the KBO’s farming and rehabilitation league for players returning from injury. The KBO has evolved significantly since its inaugural season in 1981 under the military dictatorship of Chun Doo-Hwan, who incidentally threw the first pitch. Only six teams started that first year and since then more teams have sprung up in Seoul, Suwon and Jeonju. Some have stayed with us, while others have been consigned to the scrapheap of defunct professional sporting teams.

For sports fans, there are few better things to look forward to in Korea once the dreary winter months are over than the start of baseball season. It might surprise many readers to learn that one of America’s favorite pastimes is also Korea’s preferred team-based sport. As we enter the month of April each year in Korea, sports fans and baseball fanatics across the peninsula begin to dust off their mitts and replica uniforms as they gear up for another season of the Korean Baseball Organization (KBO). The KBO was formed in 1981 and enters its thirty-first season this year, with regular and post-season games running from early April to the end of October. Currently there are 8 teams - based in Incheon, Busan, Daegu, Daejeon, Gwangju and Seoul – playing out a grueling 133-game season and facing each other a staggering 19 times. The top four teams compete in the postseason games with the team that finishes the regular season on top of the standings going straight to championship series,

18 10 Magazine April 2011 2012

The Nexan Heroes who cur rently have endured difficult spells in recent years with play in Mokdong, western Seoul, have the last of the Bears’ three championships coming changed name and location more times in 2001. They have lost three Korean Series since than any other. Starting out in Incheon then. LG’s last championship came in 1994. as the Sammi Superstars in 1982 they 1994 must seem like a lifetime away for LG have also assumed the identities of the fans as a fifth place finish in 2007 represents their Chongbo Pintos, Taepyungyang Dolhighest standing in a decade. As in Incheon, some phins, Hyundai Unicorns and Heroes. disillusioned fans showed their discontent last Nexan f inished last season as the season by protesting after a number of games. KBO’s worst team, but they won four Meanwhile, baseball crazy city Busan has a team titles in 12 seasons as the Unicorns based of its own – the Lotte Giants. Something of a sportin Suwon. Despite their success, poor ing anomaly in Korea, Lotte boasts one of the best attendance forced the team to move to stadiums in the country, some of the most influenSeoul. It comes as something of a surtial fans and often a line up of hitters to rival any prise then that Suwon is the most likely other. Unbelievably, though, they have gone without destination of the KBO’s tenth team. a championship for 20 years, having failed to even The KIA Tigers have had greater reach a Korean Series final this century. And with fortunes throughout history. From the last season’s MVP first baseman and home run king southern city of Gwangju, KIA won nine Lee Dae-ho moving to Japan, the Giants’ offense of the first sixteen championships. They will be tested as to how good it really is. were known as the Haitai Tigers in their Finally, there’s Daejeon’s Hanwha Eagles, glory days but when the Asian financial everybody’s favorite underachievers in the KBO. crisis hit in 1998, Haitai was forced to After a third place finish in 2007, Hanwha has sell the team to KIA, thus starting a since traded places with Nexen for last place, seemingly irreversible decline. despite the presence of one of Korea’s most talented strike-out pitchers, Ryu Hyun-Jin. The parallels with their former owners They may lack the chaotic characteristics of were striking as KIA languished in the Nexen, the drama of the Seoul franchises and bottom half of the league throughout the mid 2000s before claiming a tenth title in the talent of other clubs, but expect a season of exhilarating fashion in 2009. They are Korea’s most historically successful team, improvement this year from the Eagles. Commenholding double the number of titles of their nearest rival, the Samsung Lions. tator Danny K from mykbo.net believes the Eagles After a disastrous end to last season, KIA axed manager Jo Bom-hyun due have amassed the most improved squad over the to local fan protests and replaced him with celebrated figure Sun Dong-yeol. post season, having signed Korean baseball legend Dong-Yeol pitched for Haitai during the 1980s and 90s with a lifetime ERA of Park Chan-Ho to add leadership to the rotation and 1.20 in the KBO. Many fans hope he will bring stability to KIA’s faltering rotabrought back Kim Tae-kyun, who won the Home tion and relievers. Run Title for them in 2008. The Samsung Lions, from Daegu, are the defending champions going into Now that the season is upon us, it’s time to lay the 2012 season. After dominating the regular season the Lions overcame the to rest any misconceptions you may have about the SK Wyverns in game five of the Korean Series. The Lions exacted perfect quality of the KBO. Games are generally played revenge for their whitewash defeat to SK in the previous season’s showpiece. in front of large crowds with electric atmospheres. Based in Incheon, the SK Wyverns have competed in the last five Korean Tickets can cost as little as W8,000. As a fan, I Series finals, winning a respectable three. Last year they recovered from a must advise readers to take the opportunity to horrific mid-season slump to beat both KIA and Lotte Giants en-route to the check out a KBO fixture. As far as baseball goes, championship finale. Legendary manager Kim Sung-keun, who presided over for entertainment value alone, this is as good as a Korean record 23-game winning streak, was sacked in a controversial deciit gets. sion made last August that sparked wild scenes at Munhak Stadium. Despite early difficulties, new man Lee Man-soo brilliantly guided his team to the 10 T ip myKBO.net is a website dedicated to the KBO in Korean Series. full English language. It’s a useful site to get all your KBO Seoul is also represented by two other teams, both of whom play at Jamsil stats, info and fixtures throughout the upcoming season. Stadium. The Doosan Bears and LG Twins – both well-supported teams –

10 Magazine April 2012 | 19

Finding the Fittest Man in Asia

W o r d s b y S t e p h e n R e v e r e, S h o t s b y B r o o ks Ericks o n

There’s a new competitive sport in town and its adherents are anxiously awaiting the next phase of the battle - particularly because they don’t have a clue what they’ll have to do.

ntil recently, measuring fitness generally either focused on how good you were at aerobic longdistance sports like running, swimming, and triathlons or at weight training, which had physique and sheer strength as a barometer. Since 2007, however, the CrossFit Games have been redefining what it means to be in shape in North America, and increasingly the rest of the world, forcing people to prove that they have the whole package - strength, speed, endurance, balance and coordination - and that they can push themselves to the limits. 26,000 people participated in 2011 and you can bet there will be many more this year, including many new additions from Asia and Korea. The Reebok CrossFit Games have exploded onto the scene here. Last year the games barely took place in Korea, with under a dozen participants in the Regionals for Asia held in Okinawa, Japan. That’s all changed this year. There are now two Reebok CrossFit gyms here with dozens competing at each gym and they’re home to some of the fittest people in all of Asia. See the sidebar at bottom right for proof. 20 | 10 Magazine April 2012

Photo courtesy of Reebok Korea

Spor t s & Fit n ess

The games themselves kicked off this year with the CrossFit final weight - 210 lbs (95 kgs)! Stronger contestants jumped to the Open, which anyone could sign up for - and many did, with over top, until the third round required a true combination of skills: 15 500 people competing. The Open consists of one new workout box jumps, 12 push (shoulder) presses and 9 “toes-to-bar” (which each week for five weeks that must be judged by a certified involves grabbing on to a pull up bar and bringing your toes up CrossFit trainer. Many take the challenge even if they don’t plan to touch the bar - a serious abdominal exercise). All this, with as on competing with the best but just to test their fitness - chal- many rounds as possible in 18 minutes. This brings us to the preslenging themselves to see just how fit they can be. What is the ent. The leaderboard has stabilized, and as this article is being workout? No one knows until the week they have to do it, when it written round 4 is about to begin. is announced to the world! As 10 goes to print the Open portion of the contest will be Generally the workouts are relatively short and emphasize wrapping up and from there it will be time for Regionals. For aerobic fitness and strength in differing amounts. This year’s first Korea this means being part of Asia - from Afghanistan to Japan Open workout started off with the following instructions: “Do as and everything in between. Of the Asian contestants, the top 60 many ‘burpees’ as you can do in seven minutes.” A “burpee” has will qualify for the regional competition. This is where it gets you start in a standing position, drop down interesting for readers of 10: the Asia Reebok to lie flat on your stomach and get back up CrossFit Regionals will be held here in with a jump. It’s a grueling aerobic exercise, South Korea! If you’d like to see what this and the best in the world managed to get new fitness craze is all about, you can come 161 burpees in that short time. But many out to see the Regionals on May 4th to 6th of the contestants with the finest showing in Namyangju. Expect a brutal three-day Asia Regional Reebok in this heavily aerobic event soon dropped competition, with some of the fittest people Crossfit Games Finals from the leaderboard as the focus shifted to in the world competing to see who gets a D at e strength. The next week, competitors faced trip to the US to represent Asia in the finals. May 4th - 6th the “snatch” exercise, which had them lift a The finals of the CrossFit Games will be L o c at i o n heavy barbel from the ground straight over held July 3rd to 5th in Carson, California, The Graduate Institute of Peace their heads - at predetermined increasing and covered heavily on US television (they Studies, Kyung Hee Univ. weights for sets of 30 - in only 10 minutes. were on ESPN 2 last year). You can keep up 195 Gwangneung Sumokwon-ro, The top score in the men’s was 98 reps, and with the entire competition at games.crossfit. Jinjeop-eup, Namyangju-si, a large proportion of participants probably com or drop by your nearest Reebok CrossFit Gyeonggi-do could not have done even one rep of the gym for more information. Reebok CrossFit Fighting Spirit in Yeoksam-dong: 02-2052-0096

Reebok CrossFit Sentinel in Hannam-dong: 02-790-0801

You can also find them both on Facebook.

CrossFit Open Leaders in Korea

Want to see which competitors in Korea are on the leaderboard? Below you will find two truly fit guys who have a great shot at making it to Regionals.

Joseph (Taylor) Rank

Keun Hyung (KH) Lee

CrossFit Games Asia Region Ranking #2 after 4 rounds (time of print) Affiliate Gym: Reebok CrossFit Gym Sentinel Age 24 Height 186 cm Weight 88 kg Workout 1 115 burpees in 7 min. - #35 in Asia Workout 2 80 snatches - #3 in Asia Workout 3 11 rounds + 11 box jumps - #1 in Asia

Crossfit Games Asia Region Ranking #7 after 4 rounds (time of print) Affiliate Gym: Reebok Crossfit Gym Fighting Spirit Age 31 Height 175 cm Weight 78 kg Workout 1 127 burpees in 7 min. - #6 in Asia Workout 2 65 snatches - #30 in Asia Workout 3 10 rounds + 13 box jumps - #5 in Asia

This Division 1-A American football player was tailback for University of South Carolina for four years. After graduating he turned to weight-lifting to keep the competitive juices flowing but then was introduced to Reebok CrossFit by his cousin and army officer Nick Horton. He says he has never looked back since and sincerely hopes to take first in Asia and move on to the World CrossFit Games in Carson, California in July.

Lee got his start in athletics when his parents enrolled him in swimming classes fearing that he would end up as a weak child. From there he fell in love with sports of all kinds: basketball, judo and weight training. After experiencing some shoulder injuries during weight training, his search for a new way of working out finally led him to CrossFit. 10 Magazine April 2012 | 21

Shot by Yu Li

Asian Destination

5 Reasons to Visit Qingdao W o r d s b y G r ac e S un s h ot s b y E r ic Bl o ch e r

22 10 Magazine April 2012

Of course, we shouldn’t ignore the city’s more recent history, either. Since the first Korean companies began doing business there in 1988, thousands of Koreans now live and work there, which makes it the city with the most Korean investment enterprises in China and the city with the largest Korean population in China. Qingdao hosted the Sailing Competitions during the Beijing Olympic Games in 2008, and is now known as the sailing city of China. In 2009, Qingdao was named China’s most liveable city. For the rest of the article, we will look at the five things most visitors find most charming about China’s “green island.”

B eer Need we say more? Qingdao is home to the eponymous Tsingdao Beer – hard to ignore considering it is the face of Chinese beer and an internationally recognized global brand. Originally founded in 1903 by German settlers, the brew is now a beer of choice of aficionados worldwide. Visit the Qingdao Beer Museum to learn about the brewing processes and to try different versions of the beer, including Tsingtao Dark Beer and Spirulina Green Beer, local versions found only in Qingdao. At only 3RMB (W600) per bottle, this is perhaps the best city in the world to get happy on some cheap local brew! Prices can be steeper in some restaurants, going up to about 10x as much. The Qingdao International Beer Festival, held annually on the second week of August, is the largest beer festival in Asia, featuring a plethora of international breweries and the biggest congregation of beer drinkers imaginable, all f locking to the sun-kissed beaches of this little paradise. Held at the International Beer City just 10 minutes from the beach, the event lasts for two weeks, with an opening ceremony,

ying across the Shandong Peninsula and looking out toward the Yellow Sea, Qingdao is one of the most popular tourist cities in China. The city, whose name is composed of Chinese characters meaning “green island,” was ceded to Germany in the late 1800s and transformed into a strategic port for German marines. This occupation lasted until 1914, and explains much of the German architecture that surrounds the Old Town and Badaguan districts. Bei ng t he closest Ch i nese cit y to South Korea – only a one-hour f light from Incheon – Qingdao’s rich history is within easy reach of residents of Korea. 10 Magazine April 2012 | 23

beer tasting, drinking contests, live music, delicious international and local food, and a closing ceremony. As a foreigner, you may be offered free beer by generous (and often drunk) local Chinese all day long. This is truly a not-to-be-missed event, frequented by both serious and casual beer drinkers from all over the world.

B eac h Qingdao’s various beaches are dotted along the coastline and each offers a different scenic view of the picturesque city. The No. 1 Bathing Beach is perhaps the most crowded. Located near the popular Zhongsan Park, it draws the biggest crowd of locals during the summer months. Both No. 2 and No. 3 Bathing Beaches are close to the beautiful Badaguan area, a neighborhood that features stately villas built during the German administration, with tree-lined avenues and red rock outcroppings jutting into the sea. Perhaps the most beautiful is the Shi Lao Ren (Old Stone Man) beach, impressive by comparison to the other beaches, not just because of its prime position near the Olympic Sailing Regatta, but the heartbreaking legend of the prominent unexplained rock formation on the peninsula that resembles an old fisherman waiting for his lost daughter to return from beneath the waves.

L ao s h a n Mo u n ta i n The highest coastal mountain in China, peaking at 1132.7 m, Laoshan is known as one of the birthplaces of Taoism. At the height of Taoism, there were once nine palaces, eight temples and seventyLocated near old downtown, No. 1 Bathing Beach is the most popular beach for locals during the holiday season – just as the name suggests.

Asian Destination two nunneries on the mountain, most of which were later destroyed. The Taiqing Palace from the Son Dynasty still remains, with rare architect u re and a histor y spanning two thousand years. Facing the Yellow Sea, the mountain is one of China’s major scenic attractions, and the only famous one to be situated on the coast. Numerous palaces and temples dot the slopes, which stretch for 450 sq km along the coast and into the sea. Known for its ancient trees, eroded rock formations and clear spring water which is bottled and sold as the popular local Laoshan Mineral Water brand, Mount Lao as it is often called, is another reason why Qingdao is considered the most serene and pleasant Chinese city to live in. A lucky

tree located on the mountain is a popular attraction for gamblers, as it is said that three pats on the tree’s trunk will bring instant luck for those seeking money.

A r c h i te c t u re The Badaguan (Eight Passes) area features prominent German architecture and classic European houses built when Qingdao was a German protectorate. This area is unlike any other part of modern China, with its grassy lawns, European ambience and lack of locals and traffic, due to the residency of retired party and military officials. Once there, you will be transported to another era, which explains the frequent couples who visit there for wedding photography.

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Designed by a German architect and completed in 1934, St. Michael’s Cathedral was defaced during the Cultural Revolution, but parishioners saved the crosses from the steeple by hiding them in a ditch nearby. In 1981, the government funded the church’s restoration, and in 2005 the crosses were uncovered by workers fixing a nearby water line. As host to the 2008 Beijing Olympic Regatta, Qingdao is considered China’s sailing city. The state-of-the-art International Sailing Center in the modern downtown area is bustling with activity during the warmer months, providing training programs for local and international enthusiasts. This sculpture, entitled The Wind of May, is a major symbol of Qingdao’s past and its modern identity. The student-led May 4th Movement, sparked in Qingdao, is credited for having fomented nationalist sentiment in Eastern China during the interwar period.

Qingdao’s Old Town is another area that holds a myriad of historically significant buildings, still intact from when they were built in the early 1900s during the German occupation. Start at Yishui Rd and follow the path from the old German Lutheran Church up to the old American Consulate, the German Battalion, the German Governor’s building, and the old British Consulate and then on to the site of the famed Old Observatory YHA.

S hop p i n g a n d F o od The newly developed Dongbu area is modern, fashionable, and resembles a slice of Shanghai’s Pudong. Wide streets and boulevards give way to up-market luxury shopping, fancy department stores, the best restaurants, and the Olympic Regatta. Conversely, the Jimo Lu and Taidong areas maintain the hustle and bustle of young and trendy China, with night markets and 24 | 10 Magazine April 2012

Where to Stay Old Observatory YHA Located in the heart of the Old Town perched at the top of Mount Observatory, the Old Observatory YHA is a youth hostel unlike any other. This landmark building was the first contemporary observatory in China, and it is situated in an area that was once home to many famous Chinese writers and German astronomers. The heritage site was converted in 2007 to become the current Old Observatory YHA, famed for its laid-back and friendly atmosphere and its prime location and facilities. The mantra here is “Welcome Home,” and indeed, this quirky hostel is a home away from home, full of character and exuding the coziness you would expect from a traditional guesthouse. Amazing views can be seen from Mamahuhu Lounge, the rooftop bar that is a chill out zone by day and transforms into a party house, alive and happening at night. A second bar situated in the comfy lobby lounge is open until midnight for guests to sit back and enjoy a cocktail or coffee. Rooms are spacious and comfortable, and all offer superb views overlooking the city and free wifi. Cited as one of the best in China, this is the epitome of a lifestyle YHA, a wel-

coming space where a mixture of faces and personalities congregate in a homey atmosphere. The owner AJ speaks perfect English and is generous with his time, often taking his guests out to experience the real Qingdao. Every Friday is in-house party night, where guests gather together to enjoy a f ree meal, drink free-flowing beer for only 20RMB (W4,000) and mingle. Rooms range from approximately 30-300RMB (W6,000 W60,000) per night. You will not find a better place to stay in Qingdao. Check out

hostelqingdao.com for more details, or watch the following video to learn more about the su r rou nding neighborhood youtube.com/watch?v=gDh0SN7Re4I.

Extreme Sailing Series in Qingdao Fushan Bay April 17th – 20th

these craf t go where you want it to, as fast as it can. Even better, one of the unique asWords by Tim Lyddiatt with thanks pects of the Extreme Sailing Series is to R ed Star magazine in Qingdao the “fifth man.” The fifth man is you, If you found yourself transfixed by whizzing catamarans in a or someone like you and, weather permitting, in each of the day’s strong offshore squall about this time last year, then chances are you races, each team will be allocated one. This means that as well as were at the Olympic Marina, bearing witness to the Extreme Sailing watching, the fifth man gets to experience firsthand the excitement Series’ first foray into China. It was riveting stuff. The Series returns of flying a hull and the feel of spray on your face. Basically you’re this year following an event last year filled with high octane drama, ballast, but speaking as someone who has been lucky enough to including a record four capsizes and one broken mast in one day. be fifth man, you’ll be a laughing, smiling ballast and have a blast! Qingdao hosts the second of the eight events that form the Just like last year, the 2012 event includes a mix of additional Extreme Sailing calendar. In each, four-man teams of Olympic entertainment, both on and off the water. Supporting events like and World champions, record breakers and international risOlympic 49er class racing, Moth demo sailing, the Neil Pryde ing stars of the sailing world crew lightning-fast catamarans Windsurfing Series and kids racing Optimists provide the excitearound a tight inland course. That means that all the action ment while on shore, family-oriented entertainment, kid’s activities, takes place as close to the shore as possible, giving spectadance and music provide the fun in the Extreme Race Village. extremesailingseries.com tors an unprecedented view of what it takes to make one of

peddlers galore. W hen it comes to food, seafood is rightfully on the menu. The local cuisine is best known for its heavy reliance on soups and seafood, heavily punctuated with shallots and garlic. Be prepared for slightly stronger tastes for some dishes, coupled with palate-cleansing fresh cold

dishes and lightly cooked seafood. Yunxiaolu is a major restaurant area that boasts a delightful selection of regional and international cuisine, and Laiyang Lu offers a great selection of little restaurants specializing in Qingdao fare. A fairly large Muslim population has integrated lamb dishes, such as lamb soup, noodles and “meat stick”

(chuanrou) into local cuisine, and spicy dishes are also readily available. 10 T ip There’s a Magazine in Town!

If you’re looking for the Qingdao equivalent of 10 Magazine, Red Star should fit the bill. Be sure to visit their website at myredstar.com as you plan your trip and grab a paper copy after you land in town. 10 Magazine April 2012 | 25

Around the world in 80 Minutes Cultural Centers Add to Korea’s International Vibe Words by Mary Chavez Byrns

the mood for Italian, French or Japanese? We’re not talking about dinner, but rather food for your aesthetic tastebuds. How about a language class in Spanish, an Italian film or opera or a day of wrestling and archery at the Mongolian festival of Naadam? The numerous cultural centers give both Koreans and international residents another option for entertainment, education or both. Take a mini-trip to the country of your choice without spending too much money or even leaving Korea! What do Korea’s cultural centers offer? Most have language courses. Many have libraries which house collections of DVDs, audio CDs, and many sorts of books. Some house exhibits featuring the art and culture of that country. All have staff native to that country for you to meet and learn from. In short, they give visitors access to the culture, language and people of another nation. Read on for a summary of Korea’s international cultural centers and the resources you can tap into if you’re stimulated by the thought of revisiting a language you once studied or if you dream of visiting a particular country some day. This is still Korea, of course, so while some websites may provide English-language information, others will require some Korean language skills to find the information you need.

26 10 Magazine April 2012

British Council

Goethe Institut

Who better than the English to teach English? The British Council offers English-language classes, mostly targeted at Koreans. Gwanghwamun, Seoul Nat’l University of Education and Gyeongin University of Education are links to this center for English language learning, which also provides support for university IELTS exams. If you’re planning a visit to Great Britain, this is also a good place to gather information. Translation and interpretation services are available, but check with the center first.

Mrs. Joo is the librarian on duty, and her refined English and Korean will help you navigate through a solid collection of German language, art, culture and children’s magazines. German photography and artists are sometimes exhibited, so check with the center for the scheduled offerings. Starting this month is a new movie series titled “Goethe-Kino,” which will consist of six German movies that deal with multiculturalism in German society. Another event to look forward to in April is the performance by experimental German theater group “She She Pop” at Festival Bo:m on April 13th and 14th. Those interested in learning more about German culture are also encouraged to visit Platoon Kunsthalle in Gangnam for a culturally relevant, architecturally unique container building (kunsthalle.com).

Mon - Fri 8:30 am - 10:30 pm; Sat 10 am - 6 pm. Near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 6). 4F Heungguk Saengmyeong Building, 226 Sinmun-ro 1-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul. britishcouncil.org/korea.htm (Korean/English) 02-3702-0600

Centro Cultural Hispanico Located in the Inter-Burgo Hotel in Daegu, this center offers four-week language courses in Spanish at reasonable rates. The courses will help prepare you for the DELE proficiency exam. A library and gallery feature many books and artwork (mostly oil paintings), offering a variety of perspectives on the Spanish culture. The hotel also plays host to a highly regarded Spanish restaurant, which will allow you to fully indulge your Spanish soul after a language class. Mon – Fri 10 am – 7 pm; Sat 10 am – 5 pm. 3F Spain Cultural Center, Hotel Inter-Bulgo, 300 Manchon-dong, Suseong-gu, Daegu. spain.or.kr (Korean only) 053-602-7311

Classes: everyday 9 am - 9 pm. Library: Mon - Sat 11 am - 7 pm. Seoul Stn. (lines 1 & 2, ex. 9). 5F Seoul Square, 541 Namdaemunro 5-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul. goethe.de/ins/kr/seo (Korean/ German) 02-2021-2800

Institut Français Given Korea’s long history involving the French as Catholic missionaries and martyrs, it’s easy to understand why this center has popular appeal among Koreans. But even without the history, the center itself is an attractive destination. Along with the authentic French cuisine offered at the Café Des Arts, there are events including wine tastings, a book club, and French movie nights. The Cine France movie series takes place

every Tuesday at the Cinecode Sonje in Anguk-dong. Language classes are available for budding Francophiles not only at the main center location in Myeongdong, but also in Gangnam, Gwangju, Daejeon, Daegu, Jeonju and Busan. In addition to the official center website, the site of the Alliance Français (afseoul.or.krw) contains useful information most of it in French. Business hours differ for library, cafe, and main campus. See website for details. Seoul Stn. (lines 1 & 2, ex. 3). 18F, Woori Building, 10 Bongrae-dong 1-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul 100-161. france.or.kr (French/Korean) 02-317-8500

Public Information and Cultural Center, Embassy of Japan Interested in studying in Japan? You can find support in the form of helpful information and language classes here. Their library extends that support through books, magazines, videos, DVDs and music. A separate hall is available for watching Japanese movies for free. If you’re just in the mood for a taste of Japanese culture, stop by to try on a kimono or sit at a kotatsu table. Mon - Fri 10 am - 5:30 pm. Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex. 4). 114-8 Unni-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul. www.kr.emb-japan.go.jp (click on

of Foreign Studies (hufs.ac.kr) for English-language options. Mon - Fri 10 am - 6 pm; Sat 10:30 am - 2 pm. Yeoksam Stn. (line 2, ex. 6). 629-6 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul. turkey.or.kr (Korean only) 02-3452-8182

Instituto Italiano di Cultura

공보문화원, Korean/Japanese) 02-765-3011

Israel Culture Center Promoting greater friendship between Korea and Israel, this center offers guests a chance to come to a better understanding of Jewish history and art and the Hebrew language. There is also a library for Jewish studies as well as Hebrew language classes. The center is available as a venue for symposiums and seminars and is currently planning to increase its offering of exhibits, concerts, films and festivals. Mon, Tue, Thu 10:30 am - 5 pm. Fri 10:30 am - 3 pm. Gangnam Stn. (line 2 & Shin-Bundang line, ex. 6). #302 Seocho Town Tree Palace, 1327 Seocho 2-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul. iscc.co.kr (Korean and some English) 02-525-7446

Istanbul Cultural Center Funded by corporate and private donations, the Istanbul Cultural Center is actively engaged in promoting knowledge of Turkey in Korea. Some of the services provided by the center are information on how to study and travel in Turkey; lectures on Turkish art, history, philosophy and religion; tours to Korean museums or palaces, and displays of traditional art, calligraphy and Turkish rugs. Of note is the center’s program for Gender Equality and Family, which provides various exchange programs between the two countries to lead participants to deeper knowledge and understanding of both cultures. Turkish language classes are available for Koreans, while foreigners are encouraged to inquire at the Hankuk University

The Italian Institute of Culture is housed in a new modern building located near the U.N. Village in Hannam-dong, Seoul. Along with a permanent exhibit of Korean and Italian art, the institute has a library containing over 2,000 books, videos and CDs. Photocopies can be made in the library for W100 a page and the library collection is available through the OPAC online catalog to Korean schools and universities where Italian is taught. A multimedia room is available for conferences and presentations. Wed 9 am – 1 pm, 2 – 5 pm and Fri 9 am – 1 pm. Hangangjin Stn. (line 6, ex. 2). 3F Ilsin Building, 714 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul. www.iicseoul.esteri.it/IIC_Seoul (Italian/English/Korean) 02-796-0634

Mongolia Ulaanbataar Culture Promotion Center The outdoor exhibit area and language courses are the main attractions of this center. Those

Unofficial Cultural Centers There are a couple parts of the world that are not covered in our list– in particular, Africa and Latin America. Since there are no governmentsponsored cultural centers for these regions, two private organizations have been created to fill the gap: the African Art Museum and the Latin American Cultural Center.

28 10 Magazine April 2012

African Art Museum

Latin America Cultural Center

The African Art Museum is one of the few places in Korea dedicated to African culture and art. There is an outdoor exhibit area where African dances and instrumental performances can be viewed. The museum also has art such as wood carvings, bronze sculptures and masks on display.

Take a weekend excursion to Latin America by visiting this center in Goyang, just northwest of Seoul. Divided into a museum, art gallery, and sculpture park, the Latin American Cultural Center was founded by a former Korean diplomat to Latin America. For some Latin American cuisine, visit the Taco House in the sculpture park on Saturdays and Sundays or try paella at the museum on Monday through Saturday from 12 to 2:30 pm (reservations required). The lounge and souvenir shop allow you to empty your pockets or your cares. An interesting display of Mayan, Incan and Aztec art can be viewed at the center.

Tue - Sun 9 am - 5 pm. Located northeast of Seoul in Pocheon. 42 Murim-ri, Soheul-eup, Pocheon-si, Gyeonggi-do. amoa.or.kr (Korean only) 031-543-3600

Everyday 10 am - 6 pm. Adults W5,500, teens W4,500, children W3,500. 302-1 Goyang-dong, Goyang-si, Gyeonggi-do. latina.or.kr (Korean only) 031-962-7171

who are lucky enough to be in Korea on the second Sunday of July can attend Naadam, the famed Mongolian festival that features “the three games of men,” or wrestling, horse racing and archery. (Despite the name, women can participate in the horseracing and archery.) These were the main activities of the nomadic Mongolian tribes of the Gobi Desert. Mongolian products such as wool scarves and leather-covered drinking flasks are sometimes offered for sale. Perhaps some sheep ankle bones would pique your interest as well. Classes held in the afternoon. Gwangnaru Stn. (line 5, ex. 1). 388-8 Gwangjang-dong, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul. mongolcenter.org (Korean only) 02-446-4199

New Zealand Centre for Culture and Education Located near Gangnam Station, New Zealand’s cultural center will be most useful for those interested in finding English classes for their children and preparing them for education in New Zealand. Classes are available for Korean children in

kindergarten and elementary school. There is also a yearly event called Children’s Gala Day held on May 5th (Children Day in Korea) which is a chance for visitors to learn a little more about New Zealand culture. 9 am - 6:30 pm, Mondays to Fridays. Gangnam Stn. (line 2 & Shin-Bundang line, ex. 4). 2F 83040 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul. nzc.co.kr (Korean only) 02-3454-0059

Russian Cultural Center This newly established center is slowly gathering materials and cultural information from the home country to offer the public. Recent activities include celebrating International Women’s Day and assisting with the Moscow Philharmonic Orchestra’s visit to Seoul last March and the Gypsy Dance Performance in Seoul last September. They also offer classes and lectures on the Russian language. Weekdays 9 am – 6 pm. Hakdong Stn. (line 7, ex. 3). 6F Seoksang Building, 234-8 Nonhyeon-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul. russiacenter.or.kr 02-6352-1700

10 Magazine April 2012 | 29

E dited by Dav id Carru t h and K you ng h e e L im

Take a Sweet Escape with the “Sweetie Refreshing Package”

Spring Picnic Package for Your Springtime Outing

Grand Hilton Seoul

Feel as fresh as a spring breeze with the Sweetie Refreshing Package offered at the Grand Hilton Seoul through June 15th. For the reasonable price of W150,000++, enjoy a spring getaway for two that includes a night in a Deluxe Room, a piece of cake at the Alpine Deli, and an Americano coffee to go. You can also upgrade to a Superior Room for W170,000++. grandhiltonseoul.com 02-2287-8400

Fine-Tune Your Figure Before the Summer Starts

JW Marriott Seoul The Healthy Talk room package at the JW Marriott gives you access to a personal trainer and a secret formula for achieving some serious curves. Follow this unique exercise plan for three months and you’ll have a perfect body just in time for summer. Guests also receive two healthy fruit smoothies at the Lobby Lounge, as well as free use of Asia’s biggest fitness club and pool. W239,000++. Available on weekends only. marriott.com 02-6282-6282

30 10 Magazine April 2012

Novotel Ambassador Busan As the weather gets warmer, there are few destinations more appealing than Haeundae Beach at Busan. You can choose the Novotel Ambassador Busan as your home base with the Spring Picnic Package (available through the end of May), which includes two cups of herb tea at Le Bouchon, free access to the indoor swimming pool and fitness center, and a 10% discount at the hotel’s restaurants. W160,000++ with additional charges for weekend, and ocean view rooms. novotelbusan.com 051-743-1234

Kaiseki Chef Invited to Japanese Restaurant Mayabi

Sheraton Incheon Hotel From April 6th to 15th, guests at Japanese restaurant Mayabi at the Sheraton Incheon Hotel can experience the sensual pleasures of the multi-course Japanese cuisine kaiseki. Preparing the repast will be Chef Hiroki Ishida, visiting from the Sheraton Hiroshima Hotel, who began learning the art of kaiseki at the age of 21 and has honed his skill over the past 17 years at famous restaurants and hotels. Lunch ranges from W45,000++ to W65,000++, while dinner options are available for W100,000++ and W200,000++. sheratonincheon.com 032-835-1714

Saturday Night’s Alright for Dancing

Renaissance Seoul Hotel Starting April 14th, Italian restaurant Toscana at the Renaissance Seoul Hotel will be holding a special event entitled Dance & Dine at Toscana every 2nd and 4th Saturday. From 5 to 6 pm, learn sports dances with a private or couple lesson by Sherry Kwon Dance Sports School. Then from 6 to 10 pm, dig into a sumptuous Italian dinner including an antipasti buffet, main dish and dessert, along with free dancing time throughout the evening. W50,000+ for dinner, with extra charges for private lessons. renaissanceseoul.com 02-2222-8647

+ = subject to 10% VAT, ++ = subject to 10% VAT and 10% service charge

Temple Food Promotion Includes Vegan Delicacies

Park Hyatt Seoul Rejuvenate your body and soothe your soul with temple cuisine, served during the month of April at The Lounge on the 24th floor of the Park Hyatt Seoul. Health food enthusiasts are drawn to the food served at temples, which is entirely vegan without any meat or artificial flavors. The Park Hyatt Seoul chefs have created unique versions of temple dishes that maximize each ingredient while preserving their nutritional content. W18,000+ to W28,000+. seoul.park.hyatt.com 02-2016-1205

Wet and Wild Fun with W Hot Spring Package W Seoul Walkerhill

Whether you’re in the mood for a brisk swim or a relaxing soak in a sauna, the W Hot Spring Package at the W Seoul Walkerhill is where it’s at. The highlight of the package is admission for two to the water zone at the Hot Spring sauna, which features deluxe hinoki pools and a scent therapy tub. The package also includes admission to the pool Wet and the fitness club Sweat, as well as a night in a Wonderful Room and breakfast for two. Through May 31st. Price starts at W295,000++. wseoul.com 02-2022-0000

Plan Your Outing with the Sweet Picnic Package

Imperial Palace Seoul Cure yourself of cabin fever with an enjoyable spring outing courtesy of the Imperial Palace Seoul’s Sweet Picnic Package. Available through April 30th, the package includes a relaxing night at the hotel and a picnic basket from the Deli Amador. Other benefits include breakfast for two at Café Amiga and admission to the indoor swimming pool and fitness club. Package prices start at W239,000++ for a night in a Deluxe Room or W399,000 for any two nights between Friday and Monday. imperialpalace.co.kr 02-3440-8000

Gourmet Sandwiches Added to Library Catalog

Plan Your Party on the 15th-Floor Balcony Ritz-Carlton Seoul

The Balcony Delight package at the Ritz-Carlton Seoul includes one night in a Deluxe Room, but most guests will be more interested in the stunning view of Seoul offered from the balcony. Treat your guests to eight kinds of finger food or consult with the chef for a customized dinner. Ideal for a girls’ night out, a bridal shower, birthday party, or whatever special occasion you have in mind. Available through December 30th to parties of up to six, with prices starting at W400,000++. ritzcarlton.com 02-3451-8114

Marriott Executive Apartments Imagine the librarian walking up to you and asking whether you’d like an Onion Focaccia Bulgogi, Croissant Ham and Cheese, or a BLT on multigrain bread. Though these are not typical offerings at your local booklending institution, they are de rigueur at the Library Lounge, located in the Marriott Executive Apartments. Take a seat in this tastefully decorated lounge and order one of their gourmet sandwiches, which come with potato chips, a bowl of the chef’s soup du jour, and your choice of soft drink or coffee. W23,000++. 1 pm - 5 pm. measeoul.com 02-2090-8050

10 Magazine April 2012 | 31

Expat News Edited by dav id carru t h and K you ngh ee Lim

A pril 2012

Citibank Korea Celebrates 200th Year with Citicard Brand Week

Bridge the Cultural Divide with MorningPrint Business Cards There are a couple essential ingredients for meeting a new business contact in Korea: a greeting, a handshake, and of course a business card. Here to help you get a regular supply of affordable and attractive business cards is MorningPrint. As the company is based in America, the online interface for browsing products, customizing your order, and making the payment is all in English. They even have an English call center and accept PayPal and debit card transactions. Even better, since the factory is located in Korea, your cost is as low and the delivery time as fast as it gets. Choose from a dizzying variety of thirty different materials including the standard paper and plastic and fine-tune your product with foil, embossing, and other customizable options. Prices start at $9.99 for 500 cards. MorningPrint.com

Citicard Brand Week launched in March in celebration of Citibank’s 200th anniversary. The promotion continues through April at selected Citicard Premium Dining restaurants, each taking turns to offer 50% discounts or complimentary menu items. Only Citicard customers (not including BC and corporate cardholders) who visit on weekday evenings are eligible. The high-end restaurants participating in April Brand Week will offer dishes that are not easy to find in Korea. From April 9th to 13th, Pizza Hill, the premium pizza restaurant located at the Sheraton Grande Walkerhill, is offering 50% off on pizza menu items. From April 16th to 20th, restaurants such as Min’s Kitchen, Pazin and Yongsusan, well-known for their topquality food and atmosphere, will offer half off on signature menu items. Finally, from April 23rd to May 6th, Cantonese and Hunan restaurant Mong Jung Heon will offer a special Dim Sum course menu for two with complimentary Moët & Chandon Impérial (375ml). citibank.co.kr/eng 02-2004-1004

SweetWhale App Provides Digital Alternative to Stamp Cards Tired of carrying around all those “Buy 10, Get 1 Free” loyalty cards? That’s where SweetWhale 단고래 (pronounced “dangorae”) comes in. This stamp card app and marketing service lets businesses convert their paper stamp cards into digital form to store on smartphones. Customers can download the SweetWhale 단고래 app for free and scan the unique QR code at participating locations. Once scanned, stamps are automatically stored on the smartphone, eliminating the hassle of carrying around all those pesky paper cards. Subscribing merchants can also take advantage of services to build a loyal customer base and market to potential customers. Download the app for free from the Apple App Store and Android Marketplace. Available in English and Korean. sweetwhalebada.com 070-7867-3699

Beetox Manuka, the Latest Skin Care Import from New Zealand The domestic skin care market is facing stiff competition with the entrance of Manuka Naturals Korea, a company that is bringing New Zealand products to the country. This month, they will be adding some new items to their current line of premium skin care products. One of these is Natural Beetox Manuka Honey Cream, which contains Manuka Honey UMF 15+, made with bee venom to naturally tighten the skin and

32 10 Magazine April 2012

reduce fine lines and wrinkles. This product has been in the international spotlight since it was reportedly used by Kate Middleton before the Royal Wedding and other celebrities including Victoria Beckham. The best thing about the cream is that it can be used as a natural alternative to Botox as it helps plump up the skin. For more information, contact Leeanne Madden at 031-701-9811 leeanne@manukanaturals.co.kr

Seoul Launches iTour Service App in Five Languages With PC Bangs on every corner and scrolling monitors at every bus stop, the city of Seoul is a paradise for the tech-savvy, and the latest Seoul-focused app developed by the government continues the trend. Picking up where the city’s tourism website www.visitseoul.net and the iTour Seoul smart phone app

Harmony Cruise Bids for Guests with Cheap Fares Most businesses operate at a loss when they start out as they build their reputation and clientele. The cruise business is no exception. You may have read our article last month on Korea’s first ever cruise line, Harmony Cruise. Harmony is obviously serious about filling their staterooms, because they’re currently giving away a whole cruise for what it would cost to stay at a nice hotel. For only W449,000 per person you can get a luxurious 4-day, 3-night cruise to Japan and all that comes with it - first-class travel, delicious meals and terrific entertainment. Add a third or fourth person to your cabin for only W288,000 per person for an adult, W180,000 for kids 7 - 15 and kids under 6 are free! If you’ve been thinking about taking a trip to Japan, here’s your chance to do it in style - and for a fraction of what you can bet it would cost you next year! harmonycruise.com 02-2260-1234

Lunchtime Networking Sessions for Busy Professionals Working professionals in Seoul now have a new source to make industry connections. In February, business networking group Linked Seoul op e ne d a n e du c atio na l p ro g r a m called Lunch and Learn targeted at international businesspeople looking to maximize their lunch break. The program’s inaugural session took place on February 8th at a filled-to-capacity boardroom at the Gangnam Finance Center. Leadership consultant Ron Cahoon spoke about his experiences in winning multimillion-dollar convention bids for Korean organizations. The following session on March 7th featured KEPCO Overseas Strategy Director Todd Sample, who detailed wisdom gained in bringing 2010’s Keith Haring art exhibition to Korea. The 10 staff are particularly excited about the guest speaker this coming April 11th – 10’s Managing Editor Stephen Revere. Other events hosted by Linked Seoul include the WineDown Wednesday networking night and workshops for developing skills such as sales and leadership. linkedseoul.org W o r ds b y S o n i a H e n s l e y

left off, the iTour Service application gives travelers access to info about Seoul in five languages, including Korean, English and Chinese, on a variety of devices ranging from PCs to smartphones and tablet PCS. The app’s 14,000 pieces of information, which include maps and 3D images, cover tourist destinations, famous restaurants and lodgings. The application also enables people to navigate the city by providing directions based on their current location. iTour Service is currently available for Apple products, with an Android-based app set to be released in August.

Gastronomic News Edited by Dav id Carru t h and K you ngh ee Lim

A pril 2012

New Zealand Food and Drinks Showcased at Busan Fair

Yeouido Soon to Enjoy Ho Lee Chow’s American-Style Chinese If you’re getting tired of jjajangmyeon (짜장면) and other disappointing versions of Chinese cooking, why not go out for some hot and sour soup, shrimp fried rice, or General Tso’s chicken? These options and more are available at Ho Lee Chow, Korea’s one and only Americanstyle Chinese food restaurant chain. This April, the chain will be opening its sixth Korean location in Yeouido. As with all Ho Lee Chow locations, guests can expect a menu full of Chinatown fare, in addition to cooks expertly trained in the art of wokking and service geared toward customer satisfaction. Chinatown is closer than you think! Along with the new Yeouido location, find Ho Lee Chow in Itaewon, Apgujeong, Jamsil, Dogok and Bundang. holeechow.co.kr

On Februar y 29th, more than 200 F&B industry representatives from New Zealand and Korea gathered at the Paradise Hotel in Busan for the New Zealand Food Connection. In the third year the event has been held, 15 New Zealand-based companies, including Airborne Honey, Silver Fern Farms, Zespri and Heinz, exhibited honey, grass-fed beef, liquor, and other food products while performing cooking demonstrations on everything from appetizers to desserts. Even as the tastings and demonstrations were taking place, industry professionals from the two countries were busy hobnobbing and talking shop. The New Zealand Trade and Enterprise hosts the New Zealand Food Connection once in Seoul and once in Busan each year to build credibility for the industry through sharing actual New Zealand F&B products and to promote business cooperation opportunities between the two countries.

Korean Stain Remover Gives Hope to Frequent Spillers White shirt, meet splash of red wine - not what we would consider a match made in heaven! But while accidents do happen, there is a way to make the spills go away. Wine Eraser, produced by Korean firm Dilusso, Inc., is an easy solution for natural stains on clothing, carpets, shoes, or wherever they end up. The product is said to be especially effective on that mishandled glass of Cabernet Sauvignon, as well as ketchup, curry, blueberries, orange juice, and blood. First released in 2004, the product was upgraded in 2010 with a new container design that can be applied by squeezing instead of spraying. Wine Eraser is non-toxic, biodegradable, and safe for children. Available in 18ml and 60ml sizes. jose_dilusso@naver.com 010-3194-0924

Dadam Does Haute Cuisine, Korean Style

Spend enough time in Korea, and you’ll find that generally speaking Korean food is working-class fare, while foreign dining options are reserved for the privileged. New Cheongdam-dong restaurant Dadam doesn’t see things like that, however. The restaurant is dedicated to distilling the essence of Korea into mouthwatering haute cuisine. If that sounds a little dry, the food is anything but. The head chef at Dadam is Jeong Jae-deok, a master of temple cuisine who’s pretty good at showing how food that’s good for you can taste good, too. Supporting the food is the meticulously and ingeniously planned décor, with walls that are inked instead of painted, and decorative stones brought in from an old homestead on Ganghwa Province. Dadam is even divided into eighteen private rooms to ensure that guests can focus on their own meals and not those of other customers. 02-518-6161

10 Magazine April 2012

Birthday Bash and Big Wins at High Street Market High Street Market - Hannam-dong’s boutique market for bread, cheese, deli meats and wine - recently celebrated its first anniversary, and they shared the party with their customers. With over twenty prizes to give away and a guest chef handing out delicious treats, High Street customers were greeted with fun events throughout the birthday-weekend celebration. We hope you won’t be too jealous of the winners: Chea Srun received a marble cheese slicer and two imported cheeses, Anthony Spaeth got a wine gift box, and the grand prize of a trip to Bali went to Rebecca Conway. To make sure you don’t get left out again, be sure to hit up High Street Market today for your imported needs and cravings. highstreetmarket.co.kr 02-790-5450

I n th e K itch en

Italian Food Made by Italian Hands Sebastiano Giangregorio Hired by High Street Market

on a fide Italian chefs are rare in Korea, which makes cooking extraordinaire Sebastiano Giangregorio a valuable commodity here. So valuable, in fact, that Itaewon-based High Street Market recently hired him as a consultant to prepare and sell a variety of his well-known brand of Italian foods at their store. Giangregorio is a Modena, Italy native and executive chef at Esclusivo Restaurant, located in Gangnam. His passion and dedication to bringing a taste of Italy to Seoul motivated him to move his food products from out of the restaurant and into the Market. “The idea is to sell authentic Italian food, made by authentic Italian hands, and offer it at an affordable price,” he said. “It’s never been done before here.” The food is prepared fresh daily, every morning. He said he uses only the best materials and ingredients, 99 percent of which are imported from countries all over the world. “I always use the same, consistent Italian recipes, and that is not common to see in Korea.” Customers can now purchase just about any portion of his foods they desire, which include anti-pasta, spaghetti, focaccia, cannelloni, and piadina, to name a few. They have the option to heat up a fresh calzone, for instance, and dine in, or to purchase ingredients to cook themselves. “People here have shown that they want real Italian to make at home, and I want to give it to them.” High Street Market increased its seating capacity from two to twenty-five to accommodate for an ever-increasing demand in diners who desire his line of food products, which it first started selling a year ago. His products will be sold at the Market’s new “High Street Gastronomia” section, headed by full-time Italian chef, Marco Gaspari, who has worked under Giangregorio. And as more people pour in to purchase his special brand of ravioli, he is confident they will leave satisfied. “I want to make happy people with good food.” Words and shots by K en n et h F ibbe

10 Magazine April 2012 | 35

May 3 rd – 5 th There is more to Korean booze than beer and soju, as visitors to the World Traditional Alcoholic Beverage Festival will discover. On display at the festival will be Korea’s finest traditional alcohols, including brews that have been featured in the press as well as those that made the cut as finalists in the Korean Distillers’ Convention last year. The festival will provide readers with an excellent opportunity to get a little more familiar with makgeolli and make the acquaintance of more exotic tinctures such as insamju (fermented ginseng) and deodeokju (made from a medicinal root). Continued on p. 52

NATIONWIDE 38 • SEOUL 42 • GaNGwon PROVINCE 59 • GYEONGGI PROVINCE 60 CHUNGCHEONG PROVINCE 62 • JEOLLA PROVINCE 63 • GYEONGSANG PROVINCE 64 JEJU ISLAND 66 • NETWORKING CALENDAR 67

This Means War

Directed by McG

An action-packed romantic comedy about two spies falling in love with the same girl sounded like it could be fun, some light fluffy entertainment to while away the hours. Unfortunately when I saw the name McG attached to this film I knew there might be trouble ahead. Starring Reese Witherspoon as a lonely product tester and Chris Pine alongside Tom Hardy as the two CIA agents who compete for her affection, This Means War tells us a rather silly tale of lust, love and the betrayal of friendship. Who will get the girl? Who will get shot? How much of this film will you be able to tolerate? McG directs as if he is Michael Bay’s younger brother. Plenty of fast cuts, ridiculous action sequences and almost deliberate misuse of the talented performers on screen. All three leads are wasted in this bombastic, morally ambiguous and unrelentingly stupid film. In the hands of a different director we might have ended up with a passable action comedy, but under the direction of McG we end up with 97 minutes of our lives we will never ever get back.

Movies

by Pa u l M at t he w s

Planet of Snail Directed by Yi Seung-jun

Safe House

Directed by Daniel Espinosa It’s good to see Denzel Washington back on the big screen, this time joined by Ryan Reynolds in a gritty spy thriller from Swedish director Daniel Espinosa. Washington plays criminal mastermind Tobin Frost, an ex-CIA agent looking to make a deal down in Cape Town. When things go wrong he seeks sanctuary at the American consulate and is taken to a safe house where Matt Weston (Reynolds) is housekeeper. Things go from bad to worse and Weston finds himself having to keep Frost prisoner as they are chased all over the city by a group of mysterious assassins. Meanwhile Weston’s bosses are trying to contain the situation, but a file in Frost’s possession could have serious consequences for the intelligence community. While the script is a little predictable, relatively new director Espinosa manages to bring a real sense of tension and drama to the film. There’s plenty of action, plenty of violence, and it’s a joy to see Washington and Reynolds onscreen together. Both actors give excellent performances and turn the film from an average thriller into a more exciting prospect. The supporting cast of Brendan Gleeson, Sam Shepard and Vera Farmiga add weight to the proceedings and if the plot was a little less flimsy then this could have been an excellent tale of espionage. As it stands, Safe House will keep you entertained, but the twists and turns of the story will surprise no one, and ultimately despite the great performances it’s an enjoyably forgettable spy caper. 38 | 10 Magazine April 2012

Once in a while there comes a movie that just bowls me over. It was last spring at the Jeonju Film Festival that I first saw the remarkable Planet of Snail and it’s great to see that this spring it finally gets a nationwide release. This touching documentary focuses on Young-chan, a deaf and blind aspiring writer who lives his life in darkness and silence. He is aided by his wife Soon-ho who despite her own disabilities cares for Young-chan. Planet of Snail lets us into the lives of these two extraordinary people and allows us to begin to understand what life as a disabled person in Korea is like. Director Yi Seung-jun finds beauty in mundanity, focusing on everyday details and activities that we take for granted, but which for Young-chan are a completely different experience. There’s a warmth and a joy to this simple tale that will touch your heart and leave you changed. Documentaries like these are a rare treat and Planet of Snail is well worth seeking out if you are a fan of the genre.

NATIONWIDE CALENDAR New This Month

Dates are subject to change.

Mother 어머니 Korea. Documentary. Lee So-seon; dir. Tae Jun-sik

April 12th

Millennium: The Girl Who Kicked the Hornet’s Nest Denmark. Crime/Thriller. Michael Nyqvist; dir. Daniel Alfredson

April 19th

April 5th

A Better Life USA. Drama. Demian Bichir, Jose Julian, Nancy Lenehan; dir. Chris Weitz

NATIONWIDE

Regrets France. Romance/ Drama. Yvan Attal, Valeria Bruni Tedeschi, Arly Jover; dir. Cedric Kahn Crazy Horse USA/France. Documentary. Philippe Katerine, Daizy Blu; dir. Frederick Wiseman

April 19th

Starry Starry Night China/Taiwan/Hong Kong, Drama. Xu Jiao, Lin Hui-min; dir. Tom Lin

April 5th

The Ides Of March USA. Drama/Thriller. Ryan Gosling, George Clooney; dir. George Clooney

April 19th

On Tour France. Drama. Mathieu Amalric; dir. Mathieu Amalric

April 5th

Conan the Barbarian USA. Fantasy/Action. Jason Momoa, Ron Perlman; dir. Marcus Nispel

April 5th

The Hunger Games USA. Fantasy/Action. Jennifer Laurence, Josh Hutcherson; dir. Gary Ross

The Avengers USA. Action/ SF/Adventure. Robert Downey Jr., Chris Evans, Chris Hemsworth; dir. Joss Whedon

April 19th

April 5th

Eungyo 은교 Korea. Romance. Park Hae-il, Kim Mu-yeol, Kim Go-eun; dir. Jeong Ji-u

April 26th

The Scent 간기남 Korea. Thriller/Comedy. Park Hee-sun, Park Si-yeon; dir. Kim Hyeong-jun

April 5th

April 11th Beauty and the Beast 3D USA. Animation/Fantasy/Romance. Dir. Gary Trousdale, Kirk Wise

Battleship USA. Action/War. Rihanna, Taylor Kitsch, Liam Neeson; dir. Peter Berg

April 11th

The Beaver USA. Comedy/Drama. Mel Gibson, Jodi Foster; dir. Jodi Foster

April 12th

Bel Ami Great Britain/Italy. Drama. Robert Pattinson, Kristin Scott Thomas, Christina Ricci, Uma Thurman; dir. Nick Ormerod, Declan Donnellan

TBA

Ways to Live Forever Spain/ Great Britain. Drama. Robbie Kay, Alex Etel, Ben Chaplin; dir. Gustavo Ron

April 12th

Television

Songwriting Is Road to Romance on MBC Music’s Latest Reality Show Cable channel MBC Music takes a new approach to reaching music fans with romantic reality show Music and Lyrics.

These days every TV channel broadcasts numerous shows that have something to do with music. Music shows are overflowing with new idol groups with similar styles, while audition survival programs, which are not so revolutionary anymore, continue to dominate all major channels. While it’s still fun to watch qualified K-pop idol groups and listen to audition participants who are exceptionally talented, it seems like the broadcasting companies are only providing viewers with access to limited genres of music. This is why I was struck by a new program currently featured on rookie cable channel MBC Music. The show is called Music and Lyrics (그 여자 작사, 그 남자 작곡), and what grabbed my attention was its concept of blending the two genres of reality and music. Music and Lyrics is a reality show that pairs a female actress with a male songwriter to collaborate together for 30 days to write their own one-of-a-kind song and perform it on a special stage. The first couple is Park Shin-hye, a young female actress who is also known for her guitar savvy and pure singing voice,

by S oyeo n K im b erly Yoo n

and singer-songwriter Yoon Gun, a member of Korea’s top R&B group Brown Eyes who also appears as a music teacher in beloved sitcom High Kick: Revenge of the Short Legs (하이킥! 짧은 다 리의 역습). Music and Lyrics not only shows the artistic process through which the couple work on writing the song, but also reveals how they feel about each other after the first meeting and how their relationship gets more intimate and even a bit romantic. Just like the eponymous movie with Hugh Grant and Drew Barrymore, Music and Lyrics sets up a melodic, affectionate atmosphere for the couple. Park Shin-hye, who has a rather timid and shy personality, is intimidated by Yoon Gun, who is already a celebrated musician, and she struggles to confidently present her lyrics. The show provides a new way for fans to approach music and reveals how the couple’s work slowly develops into sweet-sounding music. Ru mor h a s it t h at actress Lee Shi-young has been cast for the second episode, while the male songwriter has not yet been decided. Discover who Lee ShiYo u n g w i l l h ave t o spend 30 days with and how the song-writing process will go at mid- Park Shin-hye and n ig ht on Fr id ays on Yoon Gun work MBC Music. together on set. 10 Magazine April 2012 | 39

Veronica Falls

Self-titled Slumberland Records After the appearance in Seoul on February 21st of indie upand-comers The Pains of Being Pure at Heart, it behooves us to add another of that band’s stablemates to this month’s review mix. While not quite as brashly dynamic as The Pains, the U.K.’s Veronica Falls scores with emotive, often darkly reflective lyrical explorations that better showcase the more sober and less jangly side of indie pop. This debut release, built on a few years of catchy, well-received singles, completes the band’s journey to the alt-plateau. The tunes, all of which point the way down a newer path of Brit indie music, contain a distinctly similar lyrical feel, but a couple – most notably “Bad Feeling” and “Beachy Head” – rev up the mood enough to satisfy even more. Regardless of the pervasively somber tone, Veronica Falls works: not so much like a dose of fresh air, but akin to the negative ion buildup before a storm - where you can’t wait to feel what comes next.

Future Ghosts

Oh, Great City Roundkid Records Even more notable indie music to throw your way and help kickstart spring in the ROK. Future Ghosts, a great new addition to the alt. stable, are a rock quartet from Greensboro, NC (not to be confused with a quintet from Chicago of the same name) who have opened more than a few eyes – and ears – with this powerful contemporary blast that evokes aural and lyrical comparisons to bands like Jimmy Eat World, Foo Fighters, and Jet Black Berries. While only a 7-song effort, this album packs a powerful punch in every tune, from the invigorating stride of “Spotless,” through the guitar attack that drives “Distiller,” to the wonderfully expressive piano that paves the way for the alt.rock mélange of “It Was the Pilot.” Future Ghosts display a musical maturity and sensibility that many of their contemporaries can only dream of. Essential listening to accompany the by M ic h a e l B e rry spring blooming, even here in Korea!

Miss A Touch

JYP Entertainment It was only a matter of time before American producer Skrillex hit the shores of South Korea. His bassheavy, screeching version of electro house that often masquerades under the term “dubstep” already influenced Big Bang’s Taeyang and now it serves as the powerhouse behind Miss A’s new mini album Touch. With nary a track missing a stylized punctuation of distorted drum patterns, Miss A’s mini album trades sentiment for a hyperphonic mix of pop and house. This 8-bit disco plays a large role in making Miss A’s sound unlike past efforts, blending catchy tunes of independence with subtle sonic furniture, from underlying bass lines to whole record-scratching bridges, a treasure hunt for audiophiles and casual fans alike. While exceeding expectations, Touch may rely too heavily on an already expired genre; but what it lacks in innovation, it makes up for in being one of the few to experiment so successfully without simply by A n n a O r z e l appropriating.

Books

by J o h n M e n s i n g

Tea Table Books

t’s a tradition in the home to have an oversized book o’ pictures on the coffee table. While many of us here don’t get coffee table books because we think we’re only going to be here for another year or so, the books in this month’s column give us cause to reconsider that decision. Assuming that all the subway stations looked the same, Flash Parker, the progenitor of The Metro Project (2012, 208

40 | 10 Magazine April 2012

pages) conceived of picturing their differences as a photography club project. Parker wanted to highlight those differences through the details, and a group of photographers join him in these pages on that quest. To me, coming from NYC, where the subway is a fact of life, this inspiration seemed a curious conceit: The stations of the Seoul metro - of which I’m only an occasional rider - never seemed similar to begin with. Regardless of their inspiration, the shutterbugs who have produced this milestone in trainspotting overachievement present us with some astounding images. Some of the photographs are composed to recollect iconic images from famous paintings, rendering the real world text of the underground virtually surreal. Alex Murray’s study of line 4 stands out as particularly well composed. Joe Tursi’s essay on line 2 is dramatically well executed, and Phillip Van Orden’s take on Line 1 and the Jungnang line is poignant. Others seem a little forced

and contrived, cloying and overcalculated, something you’d expect to see in an arty book. As a book, the diversity can become overwhelming, and these might work better as an exhibition or a screensaver. And if you’re a coffee table book traditionalist, you might not fancy the paperback cover, normal size and imperfect binding. Moon Tides: Jeju Island Grannies of the Sea (2011, 240 pages, oversized and hefty) meets all the traditional requirements for the tea table, being hard-bound and dripping with retro Han heritage. Brenda Sunoo, a Korean-American, put together these visuals for the International Museum of Women, and it’s all about portraiture and scenery, with none of that art college philosophical foppery to cloud the lens. Instead of shuffling around in the middle of the night collecting cardboard and whatnot, the ajummas of picturesque Jeju don wetsuits and tear up whatever they can get their hands on in the sea. These are the subjects of Sunoo’s study, and if you’re not squeamish about marine ecology, and enjoy a bit of the old sashimi, you’ll find succulence in this collection.

NATIONWIDE CALENDAR Major Foreign Banks

nationwide Hotlines

Cameras to Go

Tech

by S ta ff o r d L u ms d e n

i-definition cameras are very much the norm these days with phone and traditional camera manufacturers coming out with smaller and better-equipped cameras all the time. Yet it is a brave man (or woman) who will take their expensive piece of kit dirt bike riding, base jumping or braving the streets of Seoul on a bicycle in an attempt to capture the action “on film.” Enter the Camsports.com EVO HD, a camera barely larger than a tube of lipstick but able to shoot in 720p hi-def with its 3MP, 120-degree wide angle lens. 10 Magazine was lucky enough to get its hands on one to play around with late last month and the results are pretty impressive. Recording to Micro SD card, you’ll be able to fit 120 minutes on 32GB. Considering your average base jump lasts about 20 seconds you’ll be able to jump off plenty of cliffs before needing to download the contents of this little camera to your Windows machine or Mac. And at just 45 grams you won’t notice it strapped to your helmet, arm, leg or other appropriate appendage. The EVO HD is built to last. The lack of moving parts for a start says it means business and the number of ways to mount the little camera on pretty much any surface are almost limitless. In the pack users get the camera, with audio cover making it splash-proof, a cover and set of hermetic seals making it water-proof (to 10 meters) a helmet mount, goggles mount (for skiing and biking), two rotating mounts and a headband meaning you won’t be lost for places to mount the thing to capture just the right moment as you head down the slopes at Yongpyong. Also included in the box: a standard mini USB cable, software CD, wrist strap, user manual and more Velcro than you can swing a mini camera at. The EVO HD is manufactured by camsports.com and is available from select Korean online retailers for around W250,000. Also in 10 Magazine’s hot little hands last month: The XSories UShot. (Hey! We don’t name them!) The UShot is a monopod that you can safely and securely attach your smartphone to. It’s telescopic and gives you about 2 feet more reach when using your smartphone video. Great for short people stuck at the back of 2NE1 concerts! Along with the UShot we also had an XSories Deluxe tripod. Similar to the famed Gorilla pod, this mini-tripod has articulated legs allowing you to wrap it around poles, door handles and just about any other surface in order to effect that perfect selka (셀카, Konglish for a self-portrait snapshot). Online shoppers can use actionstudio.co.kr. The website is in Korean but there is an English-language payment option. 070-4415-0081

Emergency 119 Police 112 Directory Assistance 114 Human Rights and Discrimination 1331 Medical Information Center 1339 This is a 24-hour, nationwide hospital information service available in English, Korean, Chinese and Japanese.

Foreigner Assistance/Translation BBB 24-hour Language Assistance 1588-5644 KTO Tourism 24-hr Infoline 1330 Korea Immigration immigration.go.kr 1345 Korean Customs customs.go.kr 1577-8577 Seoul Dasan (city info) 02-120

Investment Assistance KOTRA kotra.or.kr Invest Korea investkorea.org

02-3460-7114 1600 -7119

Korean Banks Shinhan Bank Seoul Global Center 1st Floor, Seoul Finance Center 84 Taepyungro 1-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul 02-773-3131 Korea Exchange Bank (KEB 외환은행) keb.co.kr 1544-3000 SC First Bank (SC 제일은행) scfirstbank.com 02-3702-3114

American Express americanexpress.co.kr 02-2000-8100 Australia & New Zealand Banking Group 02-3700-3100 China Construction Bank ccbseoul.com 02-6730-1718 Citibank citibank.co.kr 02-3455-2114 Deutsche Bank 02-724-4500 BNP Paribas bnpparibas.co.kr 02-317-1700 HSBC 1588-1770

Transportation Asiana flyasiana.com 1588-8000 Busan Air flyairbusan.com 1588-8009 Jeju Air jejuair.net 1599-1500 Korean Air koreanair.com 1588-2001 Intercity Express Bus kobus.co.kr 1588-6900 Korea Railroad Corp. korail.com 1544-7788 Seoul/Gyeonggi Interactive Subway Map smrt.co.kr Mobeom Taxi Service Nationwide 1588-2255 The nationwide “black taxi” number will put you in touch with a driver who speaks English, but these taxis cost about twice as much as taxis from the rest of the color spectrum. Otherwise call 1330 for regular taxis in your area.

Pizza Delivery Order Nationwide English-speaking Service Domino’s 1577-3082 Papa John’s 1577-8080 Pizza Hut 1588-5588

10 Magazine’s Free Weekly Events Email Be the first to know about the hottest events happening all over the country each week. Sign up at www.10mag.com/weekly10

t 10 Veterinarians t 10 vet nurses t State of the art equipment CT, MRI, Digital X-Ray, U/S, Laser therapy

t International pet transportation service

25% Discount

for US soldiers and English teachers Coolpet Building, 35-3 Samseong-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 02-3443-8275 www.dr-pet.co.kr 10 Magazine April 2012 | 41

10 Magazine reimburses reviewers for their meals and never notifies restaurants that they will be reviewed.

Food Review

서울 SEOUL

Farm-to-Table Done Right Words AND SHOTS by Joe McPh e rson

our bubbling bowls of soup land on the table, surrounded by an army of side dishes, looking like they are about to attack Mordor. This is but one element of an epic lunch at Bean Table (두둑한상, Dudukhansang), the new hot ticket in town that’s slightly out of town. This is another destination restaurant, but it’s worth it. The lawyers and businessfolk from the Seocho, Yangjae and Gangnam districts rush during their lunch breaks to take in this unique, new and yet fittingly traditional eatery run by tenacious young chefs. It’s places like this, which brings to mind some of the most respected restaurants in California and Provence, that are going to get Korean dining international acclaim - not pretentious, overpriced galbi gardens. These guys are hardcore about sustainable farm-to-table flavors with modern interpretations. Their tofu is not only made in house. The soybeans come from a specific farmer from a specifically designated plot of land so that the terroir is consistent. The soybean paste comes from artisanal producers not far from the restaurant. This translates not only into great natural flavors but also great value. A lunch with more food than a human being can Satisfying farm-to-table Korean cuisine at a great price Out in the country, but not that far out Very English friendly

Accepted

Not allowed inside

W8,000 - W30,000

Veggie? Even good for vegans

beantable.com

42 | 10 Magazine April 2012

handle goes for W15,000. This includes perfectly marinated and grilled beef with chunks of earthy tofu and washed kimchi, a bubbling hotpot of seafood that tastes like my grandma’s gumbo, and pumpkin porridge with pan-fried rice cakes. This also includes the aforementioned banchan army with traditional and innovative flavors like the apple kimchi that you have to put on your bucket list. Finish this off with a tofu “ice cream” that is accidentally vegan and intentionally satisfying. Dining in the country, just a short taxi ride from Yangjae Station, surrounded by mountains in a folksy dining room just adds to the experience. The boys plan to add a garden when the weather warms up. They also source some local artisanal makgeolli, and Chef Songmo Lee will be happy to talk your head off about his makgeolli passion. That’s what makes this place truly stand out. There is a youthful passion to get back to the roots of Korean cooking. This is the perfect place to take someone who has never tried Korean food. It’s also the perfect place for the jaded veteran to rediscover why Korea has one of the world’s top peasant cuisines.

87-2 Geumto-dong, Sujeong-gu, Seongnam-si, Gyeonggi-do From Yangjae Station (line 3), Burger King exit, take green bus 4432 south for 12 stops. Get off at Yetgol. Walk a few meters, and it’s on your right. You can also print the map from the website with the phone number and give to a taxi driver. In case you have trouble explaining the location to your taxi driver, show them the following Korean address and they can punch it into their GPS.

경기도 성남시 수정구 금토동 87-2 두둑한상

031-8017-2213

FOODIE FINDS

Ice Cream for the Adventurous Eater

Days of Wine and Cheese

A casual stroll in the French village leads to Vinoflower, a casual wine bar with a wooden interior reminiscent of a rustic cabin. The variety of wine is plentiful, reasonably priced and paired nicely with a set menu or cheese. The cheese’s strategic presentation resembled that of a Risk board. The cream cheese and crackers had the high ground in the center but were surrounded by goat cheese, brie, sharp cheddar and smoked gouda. The Caesar salad was also unique, served on top of a soft tortilla with a cheese and Caesar dressing. Vinoflower’s loyal clientele frequently return due to their superb customer appreciation. It’s not uncommon to receive complimentary hors d’oeuvres while you enjoy fine wine and smooth jazz. 2F Han Building, 89-5 Banpo 4-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul. vinoflower.com 02-593-0344 Words and shot by Troy Zi tz e lsb e rg e r

Nestled into a small brick niche in one of Hongdae’s crowded alleys, Fell+Cole features ice cream flavors including exotic Chinese 5-Spice, more traditional but still mind-blowing Mexican Hot Chocolate, and quirky Darth Vader (black sesame), all handmade with the purest seasonal ingredients. Take a risk and try something unusual, but if you’re unsure, you can sample any flavor first. Seating is limited to stools along a narrow counter. It’s more of a gastronomic experience than a social one. The options change frequently, so check Facebook for the flavors du jour. Take Line 6 to Sangsu Stn., exit 1, walk north, turn left at the 7-Eleven, take the third left, and Fell+Cole is on the right. facebook.com/FELLnCOLE 070-4411-1434 Words by K h al e d A ll e n and shot by A n na Pusack

Outside Green, Inside Yum Watermelon Rind and White Rice Cake, a mom’s-kitchen spot in Hongdae, demonstrates that Korean comfort food can be healthy, hearty and more sophisticated than bibimbap or ramen. Subtle use of exotic spices and creative presentation make Watermelon stand out from the usual Korean fare. Popular dishes include the slow-cooked beef stew and the lighter pork salad, which is like Korean barbecue without the work. The menu is all Korean, but they have pictures of the most popular items. Consider a reservation, as the plant-adorned dining room fills up fast. Take exit 1 out of Sangsu Stn., turn right at the first alley, staying left, and turn right at the exit. Watermelon is twenty meters ahead on the right. Look for the very green place. 010-2243-8017

Words by K h al e d A ll e n, shot by A n na Pusack

10 Magazine April 2012 | 43

SEOUL discovery

The The Plentiful Parks of Seoul Words and shots by Ch arle s Montgom e ry

서울 SEOUL

Spring is one of the best times of the year to take advantage of one of Seoul’s greatest resources, its parks. Korean parks are places to take the family, visit museums, see animals, and just stretch out on a mat and relax. They are also great for people watching, as Koreans and their families flock to parks to socialize in public. With that in mind, here are short descriptions of five of the most interesting parks in Seoul.

Seoul Grand Park While not technically in Seoul but rather just south of the capital in the suburb of Gwacheon, Seoul Grand Park is probably the ultimate “family” park in the area. It contains a world-class zoo that is particularly entertaining when visitors ignore the signs warning against feeding the animals. Try to see the otters fed outside the dolphin show, see the dolphin show, and then quickly nip back out to see the sea lions fed.Check your zoo map for a schedule of the various feedings and events at the zoo. The park also contains a theme park and the National Museum of Modern Art. The park is ringed by a 7.5 km perimeter hiking trail and operates a trolley running to its major attractions. There is also a tram, which runs from the subway station to the top of the zoo. The trolley is 800 won and the cable car is more expensive, but worth it for the views it offers. G e tti n g T h e r e Seoul Grand Park Stn. (line 4, ex. 2)

Yongsan Park On slightly rolling hills, Yongsan Park is adjacent to the National Museum of Korea and makes a lovely place to relax and cool off after taking in the exhibitions at the museum. The park is scattered with picnic tables, chairs, plenty of space to spread out a mat, and plenty of vendors to fulfill your food or drink needs. The park has a formal garden as well a lovely pond, a triumph of artificiality with rocks and reeds arranged just so and an artificial waterfall and water mister pumping away in the background. On most nice days you will find a couple of geese sleeping lazily on the artificial island in the middle of the lake, and this is a picture-postcard photographic opportunity. In good weather, Korean families turn out here in droves, spread mats, and picnic and play the afternoon away. G e tti n g T h e r e Ichon Stn. (lines 1 & 4) 44 | 10 Magazine April 2012

Namsan Park Perhaps the best-known park in Seoul, due to its central location and the stunning N Seoul Tower (more commonly known as Namsan Tower), Namsan is the “must do” park for tourists and residents alike. Namsan can be hiked from multiple points of entry and offers a quick and convenient cable car (11 am to 11 pm) from the base of its east side. Once on top, there are several restaurants and it is de rigueur to go to the top of N Seoul Tower and take in the splendid panoramic views of Seoul. Old-timers know to check out the view from N Seoul Tower and then descend from the mountain to take their meals elsewhere. On the eastern side of Namsan Park is the Namsangol Hanok Village, an architectural time capsule complete with pond and pavilion. Visitors can explore hanok (traditional houses), experience tea ceremonies, shop, and learn traditional Korean games. On weekends in the summer, traditional wedding ceremonies are held at noon. G e tti n g T h e r e Bus lines #02, #03, and #05

stop at N Seoul Tower. By subway, use Dongguk Univ. Stn. and Chungmuro Stn. both on line 3.

Hangang Park 서울 SEOUL

This is kind of a cheat, because there are miles of Hangang Park all along the river. Everyone has their favorite section, from the austere shores just beyond Seoul Forest through the busier Banpo Hangang Park to the wildly popular Yeouido Hangang Park. The more popular sections of Hangang Park feature convenience stores (some of which sell the eternally attractive combination of beer and fireworks!), and you can walk or bike on the paths along the river. Bikes are available for rental, and it’s always a good idea to bring a kite on a windy day. G e tti n g T h e r e Head

to the river!

Seoul Forest Seoul Forest, the biggest in the city, may be a bit of a letdown for anyone expecting it to live up to the hype comparing it to Hyde Park in London or Central Park in New York. The park is very artificial, carefully planned and planted. Seoul Forest contains a Cultural Art Park including the visitors’ center, an Ecological Forest that is only partially accessible to visitors, a “Nature Experiencing Study Field,” a Wetlands Ecological Field, and a rather barren section of the Han River Park. The Ecological Forest is home to deer, elks, chipmunks, ducks, and moorhens and it’s cute to watch visiting children feed them. If you are into creepies and crawlies, check out the insect botanical garden in the Nature Experiencing Study Field. G e tti n g T h e r e Ttukseom Stn. (line 2, ex. 8). Follow the signs

to the park or catch bus 2014, 2224, 2412, or 2413.

From left: Marronnier Park, Yeouido Park

How great are the parks in Seoul? We haven’t even mentioned Olympic Park, World Cup Park, Marronnier Park, Yeouido Park, well, you get the point. For now, though, get out there and explore! 10 Magazine April 2012 | 45

e di t or’ s pick

6 Guitars April 13th – 14th

서울 SEOUL

Florida-based Chase Padgett knows the blues. He also knows jazz, folk, rock, country, and classical guitar. What he’s best at, though, is blending all these styles in his hilarious, award-winning show “6 Guitars,” which the Edmonton Sun described as “a storytelling masterpiece.” Padgett’s guitar act has won Best Solo Show, Best Original Play, Best Musician and Best Performer in numerous festivals across North America and was chosen as one of the few “Best of the Fringe” shows at the largest fringe festival in North America. Performances will be held for two nights at Moon Night in Itaewon at 9 pm. W15,000. For more info, email SixGuitarsKorea@gmail.com or search for “6 Guitars” on Facebook. Words by J e ssica Coyl e

Design & Fashion Through May 5th Nordic Day: Nordic Design in Everyday Life This exhibition boasts works based on the five keywords of nature, daily life, harmony, sharing and public. All works created by designers, craftsmen, and contemporary artists working in northern countries.Korea Foundation Cultural Center Gallery near City Hall Stn. (line 2, ex. 9). Mon - Tue, Thu - Sat 10 am - 6 pm. Wed 10 am. - 9 pm. Sun - closed kf.or.kr 02-2151-6500 April 19th - 22th Jewelry Fair Korea Uniquely designed jewelry, watches, and other items are sparkling throughout the venue. Wholesalers and retailers will be able to upgrade their international network over the course of the four-day event. Hall C, COEX 10 am - 6 pm. jewelfair.com 02-6000-5549

Art Ongoing Asia: Tales in the Trees Various Asian woodwork donated by Ganeko Gazusike. National Museum of Korea near Ichon Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Tue, Wed, Fri 9 am – 6 pm. Wed, Sat 9 am – 8 pm. Sun 9 am – 7 pm. museum.go.kr 02-2077-9552 Free Market and Hope Market On weekend afternoons, stop by the playground at Hongdae for some fashionable finds. The Free Market, held every Saturday, focuses on fashion accessories, while the Hope Market on Sundays offers more in the way of arts and crafts. Located close to Hongik Univ. Stn. (line 2) and Sangsu Stn. (line 6). 1 - 6

46 | 10 Magazine April 2012

pm. cafe.daum.net/artmarket, cafe. daum.net/hopemarket Tears of the Earth Photo Exhibition About 200 pictures from popular MBC documentaries Tears of the Antarctic, Tears of the Arctic, Tears of Africa, and Tears of the Amazon are displayed at Lotte Department Store. Kids will enjoy the chance to take pictures with the cute penguin at the photo zone. Lotte Department Store, Kimpo Airport Branch. imbc.com 02-6116-2500 Through March 31st Modern Portraits of Beautiful Women Featuring pictures of beautiful women from Korea, France, and Germany by 23 artists. Space*C Coreana Art and Culture Complex, Apgujeong Stn. (line 3, ex. 3). 10 am - 6 pm. W2,000 - W3,000. spacec.co.kr 02-547-9177 Through April 12nd Past to Contemporary: Dutch Magic Realism The seventy-one pieces on display introduce visitors to 20th-century European magical realism. Museum of Art near Seoul National University. snumoa.org 02-880-9504 Through April 14th 33+Collections: Comic Art Market Presenting original artwork by some of Korea’s finest comic artists. The Design Gallery at the Dongdaemun History and Culture Park. Adults W7,000, children W5,000. seouldesign.or.kr 02-332-5818 Jewelry Exhibition This exhibition shows how people from the Joseon Dynasty indicated their class using accessories and jewelry. Space*C Coreana Art and Culture Complex, Apgujeong Stn. (line 3, ex. 3). 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Sun. W2,000 - W3,000. spacec.co.kr 02-547-9177

Through April 15th Open Call #1: North Korean Punk Rocker Lee Sung-woong Fictional character Lee Sung-woong explores the gap between fiction and reality in the Korean punk rock scene since its appearance in the 1990s. Artsonje Museum near Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex.1). 11 am – 7 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W1,500. artsonje.org/asc 02-733-8945

Theater near Hyehwa Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). W20,000. ipap.co.kr 02-3674-2210

Through April 21st Reflections from Nature: Collection Cahiers d’Artistes Switzerland is reflected in the work of these four artists. SongEun ArtSpace in Cheongdam-dong. 11 am - 7 pm. Closed Sun. Free. songeunartspace.org 02-3448-0100

Concerts

Through April 22nd Sora Kim Solo Exhibition: Abstract Walking Art without physical representation? This artist uses sound and light in a new abstract method of presenting art. Artsonje Museum near Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex.1). 11 am – 7 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W1,500. artsonje.org/asc 02-733-8945 Hangeul, Another View Four artists prevent various ways of looking at Hangeul - using applied arts, drawings, video production, poetry, and computer fonts. Hangeul Gallery at Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). 10:30 am - 10:30 pm. sejongpac.or.kr 02-399-1153

April 19th - April 22nd Madame Butterfly: The Opera This famous opera by Giacomo Puccini addresses the clash of Eastern and Western cultures. Opera Theater in Seoul arts center near Nambu Bus Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5) W40,000 - W250,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300

Ongoing Korean Music & Dance Experience the beauty of traditional Korean music and dance every Saturday at 4 pm. Umyeondang at the National Gugak Center near Nambu Terminal Station (line 3). W10,000. gugak.go.kr 02-580-3300 M.street Balla Show Male vocal trio M.street, known for their powerful vocals and beautiful harmonies, perform every weekend in Daehangno. Purchase tickets in front of the theater. First-come, first-served. Daehangno Music Monster Hall. Sat & Sun 7:30 pm. W30,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-747-2113 Saturday Afternoon Chamber Music with KT Come out on Saturday afternoons to listen to beautiful music. KT Chamber Hall near Omokgyo Station (line 5, ex. 2). W10,000. ktchamberhall.com 1577-4579

April 7th - 13th International Sculpture Festa Presenting the work of over eighty Korean and international sculptors featuring great names of contemporary work, from leading figures to emerging artists. Hangaram Art Gallery in the Seoul Arts Center. sculpturefesta.com 02-720-9101

Through June 27th Premium Lunch Concert “Jami” Enjoy traditional music, Korean dance, and pansori as you dine on a full course Korean meal at Samcheonggak. Mon - Wed 12 pm. W50,000 - W70,000 samcheonggak.or.kr 02-765-3700

April 16th - 29th Michael Craig-Martin: Word, Image, Desire Gallery Hyundai New Center in Jongno. Tue - Sun 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. gallerhyundai.com 02-2287-3500

March 30th - 31st Urban Zakapa Concert Urban Zakapa is an indie-jazz group consisting of nine members. Saecheonnyeon Hall at Sungkyunkwan University. 30th: 8 pm, 31st: 6 pm. W55,000 - W66,000. hall.skku.edu 02-760-0112

April 18th - May 22nd Gwanghwamun Int’l Art Festival Featuring 400 Korean artists and 100 from abroad. Sejong Center near City Hall (line 1, ex 3) 1544-1887

Theater & Dance Ongoing Pang Show: Kim Tak Gu, Baker King Hit drama Kim Tak Gu, Baker King has been made into an exciting musical. Jungdong Gyeonghyang Art Hill 3F. Mon - Thu 8 pm, Fri - Sun 4 & 8 pm. W38,000. ticket.auction.co.kr 02-722-4400 April 3rd - 6th La Boheme: The Opera The first performance by the Korean national opera in 2012, celebrating the 50th anniversary of its founding, is Puccini’s La Boheme. Opera Theater at the Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Bus Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). W10,000 - W150,000 sac.or.kr 02-580-1300

March 30th - April 1st Wanted: “Back to Vintage” Concert Korean rock band Wanted returns to the stage after four years. AX-Korea near Gwangnaru Stn. (line 5, ex. 2). March 31st: 7 pm, April 1st: 6 pm. W77,000. ax-korea.co.kr 02-457-5114 April 3rd Sin Chi Rim Music Film Premire & Concert Sin Chi Rim is a folk trio composed of Yun Jong-sin, Jo Jeongchi, and Harim. Their thoughtful, sensitive songs will take you on a musical journey. NH Art Hall near Seodaemun Station Stn. (line 5, ex. 6). 5 & 8 pm. W20,000. ticket. interpark.com 02-736-1367 April 7th Mustache Fable Afternoon Album Launch Danielle Arsenault, who goes by the stage name Mustache Fable, will be releasing her debut album Saving Earthworms from Sun Scorched Death at Laughing Tree Lab in Itaewon. Her cheerful indie-folk songs will have you humming the sound of spring. 3 - 8 pm. W10,000 mustachefable.com

April 14th - 29th William Shakespeare’s The Tempest Seoul Shakespeare Company presents The Tempest as their main stage production for spriong 2012. See their Facebook page for more information on dates, times, and price. facebook.com/seoulshakespeare, seoulshakespeare.com

LMFAO Live In Seoul American electro pop duo LMFAO has introduced dance clubs the world over to the new genre of “party rock.” Olympic Hall at Olympic Park. 8 pm. W88,000 - W121,000. ticket. interpark.com 02-323-2838

April 14th - 29th Seoul Int’l Improvised Dance Festival About 20 official performances give infinite creativity to dancers and infinite imagination to audiences. Arko Art

Pg.Lost in Concert Swedish indie band Pg.Lost has a unique sound that swings between melancholy reminiscence of things lost and lively instrumental experimentation. DGBD in Hongdae.

e di t or’ s pick

May 3rd – 5th

서울 SEOUL

2012 Seoul Int’l Wines & Spirits Expo Dine & Drink

Now in its 10th year, the Seoul Int’l Wines and Spirits Expo introduces industry reps and consumers to the best of wine, beer, and cocktails. Highlight at this year’s expo include the World Beer Festival, which gives guests a chance to sample dozens of beers, Wines A to Z, in which sommeliers offer tips for identifying and analyzing wines, and the World Class Raising the Bar showcase, in which Korea’s top bartenders show off their skills. COEX Hall C near Samsung Stn. (line 2, ex. 5). Thu all day and Fri 10 am - 2 pm are strictly business, but everyone is welcome Fri 2 - 6 pm and Sat 10 am - 5 pm. Admission is W14,000 with online registration and W20,000 at the door. swsexpo.com 02-761-2512

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SEOUL CALENDAR

Openrun Nonverbal Performances Lack of Korean ability can be a big stumbling block for plays or musicals performed in the local language, but you will find none of those problems at the following shows. All ongoing, and all non-verbal, these performances are perfect for fans of dance, physical comedy, and exciting music, no matter which language you may speak. Ballerina Who Loves a B-Boy A would-be ballerina falls for a b-boy street dancer in this mash-up of break dance and ballet. Lotte World Art Hall at Jamsil Stn. (line 2). Wed – Fri 8 pm, Sat – Sun 3 & 6 pm. Closed Mon & Tue. W50,000. showbboy.com 02-2266-3727

서울 SEOUL B-Boy City in Seoul: Kung B-boy ensemble Gorilla Crew uses breakdance to tell a gripping story. B-Boy Theater Samjin B/D B1 in Hongdae. Wed - Fri 8 pm, Sat 6 pm, Sun and holidays 2 pm. 90 min. Closed Mon & Tue. W50,000. sjbboys.com 02-323-5233 Drawing Show: Hero Art exhibit or performance? The drawing show is as fun to watch as it is hard to classify. Myungbo Art Hall near Chungmuro Stn. (lines 3 & 7, ex. 7). Weekdays 8 pm, Sat 4 & 7 pm, Sun & Holidays 3 & 6 pm. W40,000 - W50,000. drawingtheater.com 02-766-7848 Fanta-stick This show mixes physical comedy with traditional Korean music for lots of laughs. Kyunghyang Newspaper Building near Seodaemun Stn. (line 5, ex. 5). Daily at 8 pm. 80 min. W40,000 - W50,000. fanta-stick.co.kr 02-6401-5959 Jump Two would-be thieves break into a house full of martial arts masters! First performed in 2003, this show combines a comic story with martial arts moves and impressive visuals. Downtown near Jonggak Stn. Mon 8 pm, Tue – Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun 3 & 6 pm. W40,000 – W60,000. hijump.co.kr 02-722-3995 Karma This nonverbal musical tells a classic tale of fate, love and conspiracy between the gods. Karma Theatre. Chungcheongno Stn. (lines 2 & 5, ex.7 & 8). Mon – Fri 8 pm, Sat 3 pm & 7 pm, Sun 3 pm. W44,000 – W77,000. thepatron. aboutmovie.com 02-336-1289 Korea House Performance Head over to the Korea House for two daily performances based on traditional Korean culture. Chungmuro Stn. (lines 3 & 4, ex. 3). Part 1: 6:30 - 7:30 pm, part 2: 8:30 - 9:30 pm. Dinner price starts at W68,200. Performance is W50,000 (30% discount with dinner). kangkoku.or.kr 02-2266-9101 Legend of Flower II This romantic tale of two lovers is back and better than ever with stunning sound effects, tantalizing aromas, holographs, and more. Walkerhill Theater at the Sheraton Grande Walkerhill. Mon - Sat 4:50 & 7:30 pm. 75 min. W60,000 and up. legendofflower.com 02-455-5000

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The Marionette: B-Boy Musical This b-boy musical won the top prize in an international competition. Daehan Saengmyeong 63 Art Hall. 8 pm. Closed Mon & the 1st & 3rd Tue. 70 min. W40,000. 63.co.kr 1661-1063 Miso Chongdong Theater presents Miso, a story of one woman’s encounter with love told through traditional dance, percussion, and music. City Hall Stn. (lines 1, 2). 4 & 8 pm. Closed Mon. 80 min. W30,000 – W50,000. miso.chongdong.com 02-751-1500

Nanta This kitchen percussion extravaganza is the stage show that nearly everyone sees at least once. Three Seoul locations and performances almost daily. W40,000 – W60,000. To find out how to get a big discount on your tickets, see p. 29. nanta.co.kr 02-739-8288 Pan An exciting combination of Korean folk songs, dances, and games. Gwanghwamun Art Hall. Weekdays 8 pm, weekends and holidays at 2 pm. Closed Mon and Tue. 90 min. W30,000 W50,000. ghmarthall.com 02-722-3416 Performances at National Folk Museum Every weekend, the National Folk Museum presents traditional Korean performances for visitors. Anguk Stn (line 3, ex. 1) Gwanghwamun Stn (line 5, ex. 2). Sat 3 pm. Free. nfm.go.kr 02-3704-3114 Sa-Choom The story of three friends’ coming of age is told through dance. Insadong near Jongno 3-ga Stn. (lines 1, 3, & 5, ex. 5). Mon - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 7:30 pm, Sun 4 pm. 80 min. W25,000 - W50,000. lovedance.co.kr 02-3676-7616 Samcheonggak Concert and Performance Dine on a premium meal of Korean food with traditional tea as you enjoy traditional Korean music, dance and vocal performances. Samcheonggak in Seongbuk-gu. Free shuttle bus available outside of Euljiro Stn. (line 2, ex. 1). W50,000 – W70,000. samcheonggak.or.kr 02-765-3700 Seoul Nori Madang Traditional Performance Korean dancers and singers present you with all the vivid colors and exotic sounds of a traditional performance. Sokchon Lake Park near Jamsil Stn. (line 2, ex. 3). Sun 3 pm. Free. culture.songpa.go.kr 02-414-1985

11:30 pm. W24,000 in advance, W28,000 at the door. supercolorsuper.com April 13th Lenny Kravitz Rock icon Lenny Kravitz, who won the Grammy Award for Best Male Rock Performance four years in a row, will be holding his first concert in Korea. Jamsil Indoor Stadium in Seoul. 8 pm. W88,000 - W165,000. ticket.interpark.com 1544-1555

Super Color Super Presents Pictureplane This electro-rock band from the Denver underground scene are known to be creative and unpredictable in live performances, which offer a wide array of styles from dub step and house to chillwave. Exit Bar. 10 pm. W15,000 in advance, W20,000 at the door. supercolorsuper.com April 17th Korea Foundation Spring Concert: The Lyricism of Norway Acclaimed conductor and violinist Stephan Barratt-Due, violist Soon-mi Chung and celebrated Korean pianist Chong Park will perform on the theme of Norwegian lyricism. Held at the Korea Foundation Cultural Center Gallery near City Hall Stn. (line 2, ex. 9). Tue 8 pm. kf.or.kr 02-2151-6500 April 19th Dream Theater: A Dramatic Tour Of Events Concert American band Dream Theater will be performing in Korea. Fans of the movie Inception will enjoy hearing a live version of “Dream Is Collapsing” from the film soundtrack. Olympic Hall in Olympic Park. 8 pm. W110,000 - W132,000 ticket.interpark.com 02-3141-3488 April 20th - 22nd Lucid Fall with Jo Yun Seong Singer-songwriter Lucid Fall meets conductor Jo Yun-seong for an exciting collaboration. See what happens when classical meets indie at this concert. LG Art Center near Yeoksam Station (line 2, ex. 7). 20th: 8 pm, 21st: 6 pm, 22nd: 6 pm. W66,000 - W88,000 ticket.interpark.com 1544-1555 April 21st Boney-M in Seoul Back in the 70s, Boney-M were on top of the world of disco. Today, the group members may have changed, but this concert offers a glimpse into the world of disco before punk, new wave, and rap changed the way we think of popular music. Sat 3 & 7:30 pm. Sejong Center near City Hall (line 1, ex 3) W60,000 - W150,000. sejongpac.or.kr 02-522-1790 K. Will: I Need You K. Will is embarking on his first national tour. Even if you’ve seen him sing one of his emotional ballads on Korean TV, this concert series has plenty of surprises in store for you. Olympic Hall in Olympic Park. 6 pm. W77,000 - W99,000. ticket.interpark.com 1544-1555 April 27th Lady Gaga Lady Gaga, perhaps the most popular pop star alive today, returns to Korea after a sellout show in 2009. This year’s concert styles itself an electro-metal pop opera. Jamsil Main Sports Complex in Seoul. 8 pm. W55,000 - W125,000. ticket.interpark.com 1544-1555

May 4th Blonde Redhead Featuring up-andcoming Korean indie group Apollo 18 as the opening act. Ax Hall near Gwangnaru Stn. (line 5, ex. 2). W67,000 in advance, W75,000 at the door. supercolorsuper.com May 4th - 28th Lee So-ra “The 5th Spring” Concert One of the featured members of the controversial music program I Am a Singer, Lee So-ra is generally recognized as one of Korea’s best living vocalists. This live performance will be a unique chance to hear some of her finest songs live on stage. Mary Hall at Sogang University. 8 pm on weekdays, 6 pm on holidays. W77,000. ticket.interpark.com 1544-1555 May 28th - 29th Noel Gallagher’s High Flying Birds As half of the songwriting talent behind Britpop legends Oasis, Noel Gallagher helped produce bestselling songs such as “Champagne Supernova” and “Wonderwall.” Oasis may be history, but Gallagher continues to make music with his solo project Noel Gallagher’s High Flying Birds, performing at AX-Korea near Gwangnaru Stn. (line 5, ex. 2) 8 pm. W99,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-332-3277

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Film April 19th - 26th International Women’s Film Festival in Seoul Learn about major trends in women’s films today. Proceeds from the festival will go to support programs for Asian women directing films. Films to be shown at Artreon Theater, KOFA (Korean Film Archive), Seoul Women’s Plaza and Yangcheon Haeruri Town. W5,000 - W40,000. wffis.or.kr 02-583-3598

Family & Community Ongoing Cocomong’s Green Playground Kids can learn about protecting the environment while playing with Cocomong, the animated monkey. Sindorim Technomart 5th floor, near Sindorim Station (lines 1 & 2). 10:30 am - 7 pm. Adults W10,000, children W15,000. Closed Mon. playcocomong.com 02-1544-9033

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Rolling Ball Museum This exhibit features steel balls, rails, and a whole lot of rolling. Exhibits by rolling ball artists Jeffrey Zachmann, Bruce Gray, and Didier Legros show you the artistic and scientific possibilities of this far-fromsimple art. 2nd floor of the Kyunghyang Newspaper Building at Seodaemun Stn. (line 5, ex. 5). 11 am - 8 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W12,000, students W10,000. rollingball.co.kr 1544-3852 Vroomiz Playground The Vroomiz, in case you didn’t know, are animated talking vehicles shaped like animals who inhabit the Zippy City. Toddlers and preschoolers who are fans of the cartoon will enjoy this playground. Sindorim Technomart, F5. 10:30 am - 7 pm. Adults (middle school and up) W10,000, children W15,000. gogovroomiz.com 1544-4092 March 31st - April 1st Comic World Seoul Comic World is a festival for amateur comic artists and anime fans. One of the big draws of these

International Health Insurance Benefit. 10 Magazine April 2012 | 49

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April 14th Rock 도 Fundraiser Pt. 2 See a good show and raise money to support a free summer music fest taking place later this year. The night’s lineup features The Rub, Magna Fall, The March Kings, and Table People. Takes place at DGBD in Hongdae, near Hapjeong Stn. (lines 2 & 6, ex. 3). 10:30 pm - 2:10 am. W5,000. on.fb.me/ FPtQg9 exitsixkorea@gmail.com

April 28th No Age The duo of Dean Spunt and Randy Randall are on a journey to explore the furthest reaches of sound. Rolling Hall in Seoul. W34,000 in advance, W40,000 at the door. supercolorsuper.com

SEOUL CALENDAR e di t or’ s pick

서울 SEOUL

“Back Kitchen Seoul,” Korea’s First Pop-Up Restaurant April 21st

Dine & Drink

Popular food bloggers ZenKimchi and Seoul in the City will host Korea’s first ever pop-up restaurant. These (usually) secret temporary restaurants have been a popular trend from L.A. to London. Called “Back Kitchen Seoul,” this first endeavor will open for one night and one night only on April 21st from 6 - 10 pm. The theme will be re-imagined Korean ingredients. There is no official charge for the family-style dinner, just a W30,000 suggested donation for ingredients, time and effort. Drinks are extra. This is a good chance to try food you won’t find anywhere else in Seoul while meeting interesting folks. The popup will be at Café Gondry in Anguk-dong. You can get more information and RSVP at zenkimchi.com. regular events is cosplay, where people dress up like comic book characters. Yang jae AT Center. 31st: 10:30 am - 5 pm, 1st: 10 am - 5:30 pm. W4,000. comicw.co.kr 02-6300-1500 April 13th - 17th The Han River Yeouido Spring Flower Festival As cherry blossoms comes into full bloom, this festival will unfold in Yeouido against the backdrop of the Han River. Events (and flowers!) can be found at Yeouido Park and the Yeouiseo-ro behind the National Assembly Building. ydp.go.kr 02-2670-3140 April 14th

Dutch Orange Ball A large number of guests from the Dutch, Korean, and international community will be present for this relaxed but stylish black-tie dinner and dance party. Entertainment will be provided this year by Dutch band Grooveline. Held at the Grand Ball Room, Grand Hyatt Hotel. dutchorangeball.squarespace.com

Education & Conferences Ongoing Body Worlds & The Cycle of Life Gunther Von Hagen’s Body World exhibit features actual human bodies, preserved through his patented process called

50 | 10 Magazine April 2012

plastination. Creepy? Sure. Fascinating? Absolutely. Yongsan War Memorial near Samgakji Stn. (line 4, ex. 12). 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Monday. Adults W15,000, students W12,000. warmemo.or.kr 02-531-3184 Eric Carle English Art Studio This creative program for small groups allows children to develop their artistic faculty and their English ability at the same time. Taught by an English teacher. Yoondang Art Hall in Sinsa-dong. Weekdays 10 am - 6 pm, Weekends 10 am - 7 pm. W27,000. ydart.co.kr 02-546-8095 Garuya, Garuya: Kids’ Flour Workshop Kids + flour = fun? PMC Kids Hall at the COEX Artium. Mon - Fri 1 - 4 pm, Sat - Sun 10:20 am - 4:20 pm (Sat 4:55 pm). Adult 17,000, kids W23,000. coex.co.kr 02-738-8289 Insect & Reptile Exhibition Who doesn’t love seeing bugs and snakes, especially when there’s a thick layer of plexiglass between you and them? Insect & Reptile Exhibition Center in Sindang Stn. (line 2, 6, ex. 10). 10 am - 6 pm. W10,000. bugsfestival.com 1588-2019

Русские уроки для английскийговорящих! Russian lessons for

beginner and intermediate speakers at Seoul Global Village Center, Myeongdong, from 4 to 6 pm every Sunday. Lessons 10,000 for visitors and 5,000 for members. aruskor.org Trick Eye Museum In this exhibit, famous artistic masterpieces are updated to create the illusion of three-dimensional space. Bring your camera to take some memorable and hilarious pictures. Trick Eye Museum near Hongik University Stn. (line 2, ex. 9) 10 am - 9 pm. W13,000. trickeye.com 02-3144-6300

e di t or’ s pick

April 13th – 14th

Dine & Drink

Eat, drink, and dance – without leaving the building! At Itaewon’s new entertainment complex District, that’s exactly what you can do. Located in the building that formerly housed the Hamilton Hotel buffet and banquet halls, the complex is one of the largest establishments in the city. District’s exclusive concept combines the elements of a classic pub and grill (Prost), the style and sophistication of a luxury lounge (glam), and the energetic atmosphere of a state-of-the-art club (Mute) all under one roof, seven days a week. The grand opening event this month will feature a fashion show, live performances and a guest DJ set by international DJ/Producer Paco Maroto. districtitaewon.com 02-749 3249 Through March 31st Myeongdong Story Exhibit See pictures, letters, and other memorabilia from the Myeongdong of past years. Seoul History Museum near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 1). Weekdays 9 am – 9 pm. Weekends 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W700, children free. museum.seoul.kr 02-724-0274

Travel Ongoing Palace Tours Youth volunteers are your guides at these free English tours at Deoksugung Palace, taking place every 2nd and 4th Saturday at 10 am, 1 pm, & 3 pm. Admission to the palace is W1,000. ici@icworld.or.kr 02-3210-3266 April 6th Mountain Spirit Ceremony Walking Tour This unusual SIWA tour will take you on a guided tour of a Buddhist temple in northern Seoul to watch a ceremony for the “Spirit of the Mountain.” Fri 9:30 am. Gireum Stn. (line 4, ex. 4) W20,000 - W25,000. siwapage.com April 6th - 8th Cherry Blossom Gyeongju Bike Tour This Adventure Korea trip down to Gyeongju, capital city of the Shilla Dynasty, provides adventurous travelers a chance to explore the famous relics of this area on bike. The price includes transportation, two-nights accommodation, bike rental, entrance free to temples, and three meals. W107,000. adventurekorea.com 010-4242-5536 April 7th - 8th South Sea Island Extravaganza and Cherry Blossom Excursion Spend your weekend on an island adventure with the Royal Asiatic Society as you explore Namhaedo island on the Korean

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District Grand Opening

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peninsula’s southernmost coast and Korea’s most famous cherry bloosom festival in Jinhae. W238,000 for members, W268,000 for non-members. raskb.com/node/241 April 17th Guided Tour of Dongdaemun History and Culture Park Dongdaemun has changed a lot in recent years, and nowhere is this more true than Dongdaemun History and Culture Park, former site of Dongdaemun Stadium. An English-speaking expert on the area will be your guide, providing you with information about the present and future of the park. 10 am. Dongdaemun History & Culture Park Stn. (lines 2, 4, & 5, ex. 1), W5,000 - W8,000. siwapage.com April 18th Cherry Blossom Tour With the return of spring to the peninsula comes the return of the cherry blossoms in Korea. During this tour you can explore some of the best places to see these beautiful harbingers of warmer weather in Seoul and Gyeonggi-do. Wed 8:30 am Sinyongsan Stn. (line 1, ex. 1). W40,000 - W45,000 siwapage.com April 20th Mangwol-sa Temple Tour Guided by Professor David A. Mason Visit some stunning temples in Seoul’s Bukhansan National Park during this four-hour hike. Expect to see lots of flowers in the lovely late-April weather! Fri 9:30 am Mangwolsa Stn. (line 1, ex. 1). W15,000 - W18,000 siwapage.com April 21st - 22nd Temple Stay Trip Adventure Korea leads the way to Geumsansa Temple located in North Jeolla province. Spend a weekend living like a monk and learn more about this holistic yet challenging

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10 Magazine April 2012 | 51

SEOUL CALENDAR e di t or’ s pick

PUB & RESTAURANT Come to Itaewon’s neighborhood pub! 서울 SEOUL

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lifestyle. W89,000. adventurekorea.com 010-4242-5536 April 28th - 29th Bungee Jumping & Overnight DMZ Trip Many visit the DMZ in the northwest, but what about the northeastern side? This Adventure Korea tour includes a visit to Odaemi Village in Gangwon Province, and the 2nd tunnel, Unification Observatory, and other sites located there. Plus bungee jumping! W103,000. adventurekorea.com 010-4242-5536

Nightlife Ongoing Awesome 80s Prom Half performance and half party, this unique event blurs the lines between the people in the show and the people watching it. The concept was designed by famous Off-Broadway producer Ken Davenport. Sat 7:30 pm. W20,000. King Club near Itaewon Stn. (line 6, ex. 3) 02-3471-8963 Club Day Held on the final Friday of each month, Club Day gets you entrance to M2, Via DD,, NB2, Saab, Qvo, Ska2, and other top Hongdae party spots along with a free drink for only W20,000. 8 pm - 6 am. theclubday.co.kr

52 | 10 Magazine April 2012

Dine & Drink

Continued from p. 37 In addition to Korea’s traditional alcohol beverages, the festival will feature a selection of spirits from overseas, including Western wine, Japanese sake, and Chinese baijiu. Even better, there are numerous free samples of drinks to try and food to match. Judge for yourself whether Korean spirits win the day or whether one of the international contenders deserves the prize. If you’re still on your feet after making the rounds of this festival, walk (or stagger) across the room to the simultaneously hosted Seoul Int’l Wines & Spirits Expo. Hall C of COEX near Samsung Stn. (line 2, ex. 5). 10 am – 6 pm. W5,000. 02-761-2512 Open Mic Night at Bar Ireland Yuki Enjoy the musings of Seoul’s best talent every Thursday night at Bar Ireland Yuki. Registration begins at 7:30 pm and the show starts at 8 pm. Free admission. Located near Itaewon Station (line 6, ex. 2), right next to Kraze Burger. itaewonopenmic@gmail.com Quiz Night at Craftworks Every Wednesday at 8:30 pm. Great prizes including W50,000 bar tab for 1st place and prizes from sponsors. Craftworks Taphouse is located near Noksapyeong Stn. (line 6, ex. 2). craftworkstaphouse.com 02-794-2537 Rhyme Time: Spoken Word and Poetry Every 2nd and 4th Thursday head to Tony’s Aussie Bar in Itaewon for a literary evening. 8 pm. tonysitaewon. com 02-790-0793 Stand Up Seoul Comedy Night Korea’s finest English language comedians deliver monologues and rants about expat life and other topics. New acts are welcome! The show starts at 9 pm on first Thursday of each month at the Rocky Mountain Tavern in Itaewon. Facebook: Stand Up Seoul james. hershberger@gmail.com

Nightlife

Lively Lineup for Live Music this Spring

Words by Ni na Hoffma n

서울 SEOUL

Icons, up-and-comers, pop superstars and killer festival lineups - there has never been a better year to be a music lover in Korea. 2012 is shaping up to be the defining year for live music. After years of missing major acts to Japan, Korea is finally staking its rightful place as a worthy international tour destination. Punters of every genre are being catered to this year. Jisan Rock Festival has managed to lure Radiohead and The Stone Roses to their event in July, news that resulted in the first round of tickets selling out within minutes. Su p e r C olor Su p e r h ave a n nounced a sensational spring lineup, with shows by No Age and Pictureplane in April and dream pop veterans Blonde Redhead appearing in May. Pop music fans have plenty to spend their won on as well, with shufflers LMFAO appearing at the beginning of April, followed the next week by rock crooner Lenny Kravitz. Reigning pop music queen Lady Gaga will also be here, bringing her Born This Way international tour to Seoul in late April. Everyone’s favorite militant vegetarian and former Smith, Morrissey, will bring his unique brand of indie rock to AX-Korea in May. Lady Gaga won’t leave her infamous meat dress lying around, fingers crossed! A nother high-prof ile Br itish rocker, Noel Gallagher, will be touring with his new band Noel Gallagher’s High Flying Birds, also in May. Fans of Oasis will have the opportunity to see how the new act compares. Finally, Latin Jazz icon Sergio Mendes is playing his 50th anniversary concert, also in May. Mendes has experienced something of a revival lately, featuring alongside artists such as The Black Eyed Peas and Erykah Badu. At 71 years of age, he is making his debut in Korea with the appropriately titled Timeless tour- be sure to catch it!

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Samcheong-dong 31-1 Samcheong-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Tel: 02-730-7461 Dogok-dong 464 Dogok-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Tel: 02-574-4468

Business Hour : 11:30am - 10:30pm

www.mapletreehouse.co.kr

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SEOUL CALENDAR

서울 SEOUL SEOUL

Keeping Fit with Kettlebell Fitness What do hearthrob Bi (Rain), author of The Four-Hour Work Week Tim Ferris and golf superstar Michelle Wie have in common? It’s one of the most effective and arguably efficient training techniques available, and it has hit Korean shores with a Russian-accented bang. It’s Kettlebell, comrade. Originating in 18th centur y Czarist Russia, kettlebell refers both to a strength and conditioning method and a piece of equipment. A Russian kettlebell resembles a cannonball with a handle, and the series of basic swings, presses and moves is ferociously effective in building a stronger and leaner you. But don’t let the deceptively simple apparatus fool you: kettlebell is one intense workout. There are different types of kettlebell training, too: hardstyle, oriented towards conditioning and strength, and Fedorenko style, oriented towards stamina and kettlebell sport competition. You may have seen hardstyle kettlebell training on popular American television shows such as World’s Biggest Loser, but it used to be the strict domain of the Russian military and elite athletes. Russian magazine Hercules remarked way back in 1913, “Not a single sport develops our muscular strength and bodies as well as kettlebell athletics.” And how can you argue with Hercules? According to Woo-chae Yoon, a certified Russian Kettlebell instructor, “Kettlebell is like a handheld gym. Every coordinated movement requires core muscle tension, rather than isolation. So every exercise is what we call ‘compound’ - it works the whole body.” However, because the movements appear simple, the uninitiated may make the mistake of going it alone. “It’s essential to perfect the basic kettlebell moves in order to ensure total safety,” warns Yoon. Luckily, Seoul has two RKC level 2 instructors who offer both group classes and personal kettlebell instruction for those willing to attack this fun and challenging training method. Mr. Yoon provides group kettlebell swing classes every day at Powerzone studio in Sinsa (powerzone.or.kr). If you’re north of the Han, the School of Movement (rkckorea.org) in Hongdae offers a variety of kettlebell training options daily. English-language instruction is available in both studios. For more kettlebell certified studios and instructors, visitdragondoor.com. Words by K arin McD onald and shots by D ominique Buck 54 | 10 Magazine April 2012

SEOUL DIRECTORY Renaissance 02-555-0501 Ritz-Carlton 02-3451-8000 Hostels Guest House Baenang Yongsan 010-9071-4641 Guesthouse Korea Jongno guesthouseinkorea.com 02-3675-2205 Bebop Guesthouse Hongdae bebop-guesthouse.com, 070-8261-4835

Seoul Foreigner Assistance

Insurance

Radio

TBS eFM FM 101.3 American Forces Network FM 102.7 Transportation

International Taxi (English Speaking) 1644-2255 Jumbo Taxi Service (more expensive) 02-888-2000 Interactive Subway Map smrt.co.kr Counseling Services

Samsung Fire and Marine Insurance Automobile and motorcycle insurance provided by one of Korea’s most reliable conglomerates. Also available; Life/ Annuities, Business/Fire, Supplemental Medical, Travel Insurance. 010-3232-0625 Printing Services

Conscious Living Looking for change? Or did change find you? Would you like to shift the places you’re stuck and have more ease and joy in life? Licensed facilitator, Mary-Jane, offers personal/staff/relationship counselling and life coaching. Group workshops also available. conscious-living.asia 010-3996-9429 Korea Counseling Psychological Association krcpa.or.kr 02-498-8293

Guest House

Black Gold The luxury of a hotel meets the comfort of a guest house. #201 Bellagio, 666-6 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul. 010-4798-0218 Kim’s Guesthouse Hongdae kimsguesthouse.com 02-337-9894 Namu Guesthouse Hongdae namugh.co.kr 070-8291-4878 Olympic Parktel Jamsil parktel.co.kr 02-410-2114 Seoul Backpackers Myeongdong seoulbackpackers.com 02-3672-1972 Travel Agencies

Law Firm

JM Law Group Hard to find a good lawyer in Korea? We at JM Law Group will fight for your legal rights from employment disputes to business transactions. For a free consultation, please email us at kkim@jmlaw.co.kr

Luxury

MorningPrint Meet your business card needs with 30 basic materials as well as foil, embossing, and other customizable options. MorningPrint.com

Flower

Accessories

Cosmojin Tour cosmojin.com 02-318-0345 Fides Travel fidestravel.co.kr 02-755-5470 JNC Travel Itaewon Itching to travel? This travel agent offers worldwide discount air tickets, hotels, professional counseling, and package goods. Mon - Fri 10 am - 7 pm, Sat 10 am - 5 pm, Sun 1 - 5 pm. 02-796-9633 Unique Travel Itaewon 02-792-0606 Xanadu Travel xanadu.co.kr 02-795-7771 Korean Tours

On hats & luggage tags Noksapyeong Itaewon McDonald’s Market

Only takes 1 minute

Burger King Hannam-dong International Arcade

02-796-9052 Ambrosia Customized Embroidery You write it, he’ll sew it! It only takes a minute to have your name or message embroidered on hats, luggage tags, backpacks, T-shirts, ties and jackets. 56-9, Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. mrnameonhat.co.kr 02-796-9052 Hotels/Accommodations

Flowershop31 Free delivery in Seoul and Gyeonggi Province. English, Chinese, Japanese: 16883731; Korean 02-415-3731 flowershop31.com

KoreaHotel.com Korea’s version of Expedia. koreahotel.com 4-5 Star Hotels Astoria 02-2268-7111 COEX InterContinental 02-3452-2500 Courtyard 02-2638-3000 Grand InterContinental 02-555-5656 JW Marriott 02-6282-6262 Millenium Hilton 02-753-7788

Adventure Korea adventurekorea.com 018-242-5536 Explore Korea This Jeju local travel company specializes in private getaways and special group tours to Jeju Island. They offer inexpensive tours with high quality service. explorekorea.net 070-4254-3956/ 010-2697-3955 Korean Safari koreansafari.com 019-542-2955 O’ngo Culinary Tours Korean food tours and cooking classes in Seoul. Tours and classes are taught by Korean food experts. Experience the culture through the cuisine. ongofood.com 010-6661-7769 Royal Asiatic Society Korea Branch raskb.com 02-763-9483 USO DMZ Tours affiliates.uso.org/korea 02-795-3028 WOW Corea Tour wowcoreatour.com 02-739-3337 Medical Services

A Plus Dental aplusnetworks.co.kr 02-3442-7616 Hus Hu Dental & Skin Clinic hus-hu.com 02-519-8013 Ideal Wellness Center Are you ready to upgrade your health? Get the help of US Board Certified Chiropractor, Dr. William Choi, sports trainer and

WY Dentistry Gangnam Better than your dentist back home. Dr. Yoo is a US-trained and licensed dentist with over 20 years of clinical dental experience serving the expat community since 1996. wydent.com 02-514-5575 Classes

Access Consciousness What if the life you imagined was actually possible? Regular classes held in Seoul & around Korea. Contact Nate at 010-6285-6283 or nhkent@gmail.com

Art Classes at Jankura Artspace Itaewon Learn to draw or paint with English instruction. Weekly life drawing sessions too! szpada@gmail.com, mstewartprintmaker.com/class.htm Bikram Yoga Gangnam Feel the 105°F heat of the original Bikram Yoga with 90-minute classes taught by passionate instructors. Behind the Kyobo Tower building, Sinnonhyeon Stn. (line 9, ex. 7). bikramyogakorea.co.kr 02-532-2101

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ATEK (Association for Teachers of English in Korea) atek.or.kr Seoul Dasan (City Info) 02-120 Seoul Global Center global.seoul.go.kr 02-1688-0120 Yeoksam English 02-3453-9038 Yeonnam Chinese 02-6406-8151 Seorae French 02-570-6009 Ichon Japanese 02-2199-8882 Itaewon/Hannam English 02-2199-8883~5

massage specialist at this comfortable chiropractic clinic. idealwellness.co.kr 02-790-7246 Jaseng Hospital of Oriental Medicine Are you suffering from back or neck pain? Visit the non-surgical spinal specialists. jaseng.net 02-3218-2167 Korea HIV/AIDS Prevention & Support Center khap.org 02-927-4322 New York Wholistic Care Dr. Vincent Jong, an experienced New York chiropractor, uses pilates/yoga and body balancing therapy to help you reenergize your mind and achieve optimal health. F2, 736-21 Hannam-dong, Yongsangu. nywc.co.kr 02-792-2296 Ra Dental Clinic 02-569-8745 Tufts Dental Clinic 02-553-7512

SEOUL DIRECTORY Bellydance Lessons with Eshe Morning, afternoon, and evening classes, plus Sunday classes at the Well Being Studio. navah@live.com Ballet Stretching Itaewon Dance your days away with a diverse selection of classes available: child ballet, yoga, tae bo, yoga for pregnant women, pilates, diet dance, and even salsa classes. Private training available. Mon–Fri open 9 am–10 pm. 124-7 Itaewon-dong, yongsan-gu. 010-9309-9021

Restaurants

서울 SEOUL Dulwich College Seoul Banpo The curriculum from Toddlers to Year 8 (ages 18 months to 14 years) follows the best practice of the Early Years Foundation Stage Framework and English National Curriculum, enhanced for an international setting. 02-3015-8500 Greg’s English Private effective English conversational speaking and listening lessons for adults, middle and high school students. TOEFL, ILETS gregblex@gmail.com 010-9930-7656

Tefl Worldwide Become TEFL certified and begin teaching English abroad! TEFL Worldwide offers courses on a monthly basis. Apply now! www.teflworldwideprague.com, info@teflworldwideprague.com Beauty

Jay’s Hairdressing Itaewon Stylists trained at Tony&Guy and Vidal Sassoon Academy bring out the best in your hair. 2F 126-17 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. 070-4227-6158 Marie&M Gangnam The right haircut makes all the difference! All staff at this salon are qualified by Vidal Sassoon. 02-512-3798

Learn Korean from a pro. All of our Korean language teachers have a Masters Degree in Teaching Korean as a Second Language or are getting one. And they all have years of experience teaching people like you! InterCultural Communications Learn Korean at your home or office from experienced, professional Korean language teachers. 02-512-8443 International Guides of Korea Courses in ice climbing, rock climbing and more. iguidekorea.com Jai Center for Yoga and Health jaicenter.co.kr 02-3443-9642 Sanirang Alpine Networks This climbing service offers lessons, clinics, and guided tours. sanirang.net, info@sanirang.net

To inquire about getting a logobox for your business, email us at marketing@10mag.com 56 | 10 Magazine April May 2011 2012

American Chili King Itaewon Beefy burgers and chili served up by owner Kevin Cyr. 02-795-1303 Bonji Bistro Just behind Itaewon Hotel and under Gecko’s Garden, Bonji Bistro offers a terrific menu of salads, sandwiches, pastas and classic tapas along with an unbeatable bar. The floor-to-ceiling window door-walls open wide, making it the perfect place to be for their delicious weekend brunch. geckosterrace.com 02-795-9656 The Frypan Delicious fried chicken near Itaewon Station. 02-794-5598 Gallery Through Head here to enjoy fantastic meals, parties, art, and people. 02-3444-9700 Gecko’s Terrace The original Itaewon foreigner hangout, with a comfortable atmosphere, delicious food including great sandwiches, salads and pasta, and English-speaking staff that know how to make cocktails and shots right. geckosterrace.com 02-749-9425 Gecko’s Garden Legendary for its gorgeous home-style atmosphere, Gecko’s Garden has now started offering a delicious buffet, with steaks and pasta made to order. Don’t worry; the tapas menu is also still alive and well. geckosterrace.com 02-790-0540

Manuka Naturals For sales and enquires contact leeanne@ manukanaturals.co.kr 010-8830-2103. Available at IP Medical Center, IP Boutique Hotel Itaewon. Tony&Guy Whether it’s a cut, highlight, low light, or hair spa that you want, you’re guaranteed to get professional service from the English-speaking stylists at Toni & Guy. Near Hongik University. 02-338-2773

FUSION RESTAURANT TEL: 02.749.0508

Kimchi Pots

Noksapyeong Station Exit 2

Gyeongridan

Indigo A cozy cafe boasting terrific international favorites like their chicken pesto sandwich and a legendary weekend brunch at great prices. Free wifi. 02-749-0508 Hollywood Grill The place for Premier League Football and other sports, Hollywood has a great menu of pizza, pasta and steaks along with darts, foosball, pool and Golden Tee. 02-749-1659 Naked Grill Terrific Mexican food, salads and steaks, cooked up to order in a trendy atmosphere. 02-749-4225 Pancakes Original Story Itaewon Mon – Sat 9 am – 10 pm. 02-794-0508 The Pizza Peel Itaewon Offering fresh classic Italian and Western-style pizzas. Enjoy with beer or wine. Hard to find but easy to remember! Dine in or take out. 02-795-3283 Suji’s Itaewon Great American fare in a New York-style bistro atmosphere. sujis.net 02-797-3698 T.G. Brunch Cafe Chef Choi from Hawaii serves a delightful brunch along with his signature burgers, sandwiches, and more. Wine W2,500 for ladies. Wednesdays wing night: 10 for W3,000. 02-749-8005 Austrian Chef Meili Itaewon 02-797-3820 BRAZILIAN Copacabana Itaewon For only W29,000 you get all-you-can-eat of 7 different cuts of roasted meat and a tremendous Brazilian buffet. Make your reservations today! 02-796-1660

Bulgarian Zelen Itaewon 02-749-0600 Chinese Ho Lee Chow Serving up the best North American-style Chinatown cuisine in Korea since 1998, with 5 convenient locations in the greater Seoul area to serve you. holeechow.co.kr. Itaewon 02-793-0802, Apgujeong 02-514-1730 Jamshil 02-411-0688, Dogok 02-34614468, Bundang 02-711-9071 French La Cigale Monmartre Itaewon 02-796-1244 Le Saint-Ex Itaewon 02-795-2465 Italian Fradia Gangnam Gaze out on a panoramic view of the Seoul skyline as you dine on choice Italian food at this cafe floating on the Han River. fradia.co.kr 02-3477-0033 La Bocca Itaewon We can’t decide whether it’s a cafe, pastry shop, deli, or wine bar, but what we are sure about is that the food is fresh and the taste is divine. 02-790-5907 Sortino’s Cucina Itaewon Classic Italian trattoria cuisine in a comfortable, homey atmosphere. 02-797-0488 Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong 02-790-0776 Villa Sortino’s Itaewon An incredible Tuscan Villa interior matches perfectly with some tastefully prepared Italian flavors. Just across from the Itaewon fire station. 02-553-9000 Japanese Black Paprika Their innovative Japanese tempura will revolutionize your taste buds. Don’t miss the affordable 12-piece Tempura Sampler. 02-794-5414 korean Bulgogi Brothers Delicious Koreanstyle barbecue at locations throughout Seoul including Gangnam, Myeongdong (02-319-3351), Seoul Station, and Times Square. 11:30 am - 10 pm. bulgogibros.com Maple Tree House (단풍나무집) Itaewon Classy Korean BBQ in the alley just behind the Hamilton Hotel (other branches are located in Samcheongdong and Dogok-dong). 116-1 Itaewondong, Yongsan-gu. 02-790-7977 Mexican Amigos Itaewon 02-795-9711 On the Border The #1 American chain hits that craving for fajitas, chimichangas, tacos, burritos, enchiladas and even margaritas. ontheborder.co.kr Sinchon: 02-324-0682 COEX: 02-565-0682 Times Square: 02-2672-0682 Pancho’s Itaewon 02-792-4767 Taco Amigo Itaewon 02-749-5253 Tomatillo Grill Locations at Jonggak Stn., Samseong Stn., and Yeoksam Stn. tomatillo.co.kr 02-734-9225 Middle Eastern Marakech Nights Itaewon 02-795-9441 Petra Itaewon 02-790-4433 SPANISH Bodega Jamsil With flamenco every Friday. bodega.co.kr 02-3432-8686 Thai Buddha’s Belly Itaewon A lounge atmosphere with full bar and cocktails along with great authentic Thai food. 02-796-9330 Eat Me Itaewon Thai fusion dining and lounge, late night kitchen in Itaewon. Relax in the intimate yet casual dining area and outside patio. Sophisticated atmosphere is sure to please. 070-7624-3149

My Thai Itaewon 02-794-8090 Saint Augustin Explore the diversity of Asian cuisine. For lunch go Thai – for dinner, order some wine! 1F, 118-17 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul. augustin.co.kr 02-790-5447 Thai Orchid Itaewon 02-795-3338 Thai Garden Itaewon 02-792-8836 Wang Thai Itaewon Prepared by locally trained chefs, Wang Thai offers only the best of Thai food. Enjoy delicious food in an exotic ambience. 02-749-2746~7 Bars/Lounges/Pubs

B1 Itaewon One of the most hopping bars in Itaewon on any given night, with guest DJs and a good vibe. 7 pm - 3 am. 02-749-6164

Between Itaewon This multi-level lounge serves contemporary Italian and Spanish mains, lunch, brunch and tapas in a sophisticated atmosphere with live DJs and a spacious terrace. 124-7 Yongsangu, Itaewon-dong. 02-795-6164

서울 SEOUL

Wine Bars Dulce Y Suave Garosugil Stop by this classy Sinsa-dong wine bar for an extensive wine list that won’t break your budget. 5 pm - 3 am. 02-515-6750 Vin Ga Apgujeong Immaculate service and a subdued atmosphere make this the wine bar of choice for dinner parties and business meetings. Podo Plaza building near Apgujeong St. podoplaza.co.kr 02-516-1761 Lounges / PUBS 3 Alley Pub Itaewon Rub shoulders with long-term Seoul expats and try your hands at darts or pool in this comfortable foreigner-owned pub. 116-15 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. 3alleypub.com 02-749-3336 Bar Rouge Itaewon Luxurious wine and tapas bar in the basement of the JW Marriot in Gangnam. Happy hour Tue - Thu 6 - 9 pm. 02-6282-6763 Beer O’Clock The bar in Sinchon has darts and several sports on big-screen TVs with great food. The Gyeongnidan location will satisfy your Canadian-style pizza needs. Beer O’Clock serves up good times. Sinchon: 02-333-9733 Berlin Noksapyeong Combining a restaurant, cafe and lounge, Berlin boasts a varied menu, plus wines and all types of music. Noksapyeong St. (line 6). 457-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. awakeinseoul@gmail.com 02-749-0903

Bliss Itaewon Fresh beats by DJ Shine and a reasonably priced menu. Itaewon. 4 pm – 4 am. 02-798-1125 BricX Hongdae, Itaewon Chill out at either of BricX’s two locations. Hongdae 6 pm – 5 am, 마포구 서교동 409-1, B1, 02-3141-5571. Itaewon 7 pm – 5 am, 용산구 이태원동 119-10, B1, bricx.com 02-795-5572 The Bungalow Itaewon This quirky beach-themed bar has sand on the floor, swinging chairs, and candle-lit rooms. 02-793-2344 Coffee Bar K Cheongdam-dong A Japanese franchise, they may just have the best bartenders in town. Mon – Sat 6 pm - 2 am. 02-516-1970 The Concorde Classic and cozy, this wine and martini bar offers an intimate and timeless atmosphere. Reuben sandwiches, quiche, soups and salads available till 1:00 am. 02-749-1210 Craftworks Taphouse Itaewon Whet your whistle with fine craft beers including Korea’s first IPA, and stave off your appetite with some great eats. craftworkstaphouse.com 02-794-ALES Dillinger’s A classic-styled bar with seven beers on tap, great food and drink specials. Come enjoy our large flatscreen TVs, dartboards and Wii games. A great atmosphere for you and your friends. 02-793-7232

Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong Great home-style Italian cuisine and all-day brunch with an extensive wine, cocktail and beer selection. This is the best that Noksapyeong/Gyeongnidan has to offer. More info on Facebook: “Noxa Lounge.” 02-790-0776 Platoon Kunsthalle Apgujeong Showcasing underground artists and a fine selection of cutting-edge performances. 11 am – 1 am. Closed Sun. 97-22 Gangnam-gu, Nonhyeondong. kunsthalle.com 02-3447-1191 Sam Ryan’s Itaewon This newcomer to the Itaewon scene offers sports fans eight flat screens throughout the bar along with the meanest plate of pork ribs to be found in Seoul. samryans.com 02-749-7933 Scrooge Pub/Dicken’s Lounge Itaewon A great little sports bar with pool, darts, delicious food and plenty of English-speaking staff. 02-797-8201 Seoul Pub Crawl Meet cool people, play drinking games and party all night long. Where the bars get louder, the drinks get cheaper and the people get

10 Magazine April 2012 | 57

SEOUL DIRECTORY better looking. www.seoulpubcrawl. webs.com 010-5839-9257

Wolfhound Itaewon Terrific Irish/British classic food in a true Irish Pub atmosphere, including shepherd’s pie, toad in a hole, fish n’ chips, bangers n’ mash along with Guinness and Kilkenny on draft. wolfhoundpub.com 02-749-7971

Canadian Pub & Restaurant Monday Dry Rib Night Tuesday

Burgers & Bar 3F

Grand InterContinental Hotels. 153-44 Samsung-dong. 02-3453-4472 Rock Freebird Hongdae cafe.navercom/ clubfreebird 02-335-4576 Jammers Hongdae jammers.co.kr 02- 325-3914 Just Blues Apgujeong justblues.co.kr 02-542-4788 SoundHolic Hongdae cafe.daum.net/SoundHolic

lounge for cool music and exclusive parties. No cover charge. 21 Gwangjang-dong wseoul.com 02-465-222202-3142-4233

Clubs

ig Wing N

Club Hamilton Hotel

서울 SEOUL

• W300 / wing • 11 different flavors • W5,500 cocktails Friday Bar special Saturday Live music/DJ Sat/Sun Truck Stop Brunch

www.rockymountaintavern.com 010-5189-2327 010-7196-0857 Rocky Mountain Tavern Itaewon Canadians feel right at home with all the hockey jerseys hanging on the walls and great live music and events, along with some of the best buffalo wings in Korea. Don’t miss the Stand Up Seoul comedy night the first Thursday of each month. rockymountaintavern.com 010-5775-2327

[ Itaewon Station Exit 3 ] Tel: 793.2333

• 100-Inch Screen for Watching Your Favorite Sports • 2 Beer Pong Tables! • Best Nachos in Korea!

Sinchon 02-333-1604

Yaletown Sinchon Great food using only the best ingredients. Owned by a former NHL/NBA reporter, request your favorite game to watch! Now featuring “Barcraft.” 02-333-1604 Jazz All That Jazz Itaewon 02-795-5701 Cheonnyeondongando (천년동안도) Daehangno (Hyehwa St. Line4) chunnyun.com 02-743-5555 Club Evans Hongdae clubevans.com 02-337-8361 Club Palm Hongdae clubpalm.co.kr 02-336-9016 Once in a Blue Moon Apgujeong onceinabluemoon.co.kr 02-549-5490

Mow Mow Your dinner: traditional Korean or Italian fusion. Your drink: fresh makgeolli from all over Korea or affordable champagne. 010-3194-0924

58 | 10 Magazine April 2012

InterContinental Hotel Oakwood Premier Woori Bank Teheranno

COEX

Phillies Haebangchon The legendary local bar is now remodeled and under new ownership. Great burgers and wings. 02-793-2548 Seventy Four Cheongdam-dong A beautiful date spot featuring exotic drinks such as cheese martinis, banana mojitos and cuba libres. 7 pm – 4 am. 02-542-7412 Tony’s Aussie Bar & Bistro Itaewon Home of W6000 Guinness & Kilkenny on tap. Non–smoking environment with authentic Aussie food, beer & wine with Monday open mic and Wednesday comedy night. tonysitaewon.com 02-790-0793

KB Bank

Police Station

Live Music

makgeolli

Fire Station

n Statio

Itaewo

Hyundai Department Store

LINE Line 22 Samseong Stn.

Tokyo Jazz Authentic jazz music performed Mon-Sat, 9:30 pm - 12:30 am by European, American, and Korean musicians. Two minute’s walking distance from the COEX and

America Latina Itaewon opens at 8 pm Wednesdays to Sundays and offers Salsa classes. Check Facebook group: Club America Latina in Seoul. Answer Cheongdam-dong After a shortlived stint as gala restaurant Le Nuit Blanche, the club we all know and love is back. clubanswer.co.kr 02-514-4311 Ben @Blue Spirit Hongdae Great Japanese curry during the day and soju cocktails at night. Hit up the weekend parties. 360-18 Seokyo-Dong, Mapo-Gu. 02-3142-5301 Eden Gangnam Mega club with top DJs, sizzling sound, and model nights. 역삼동 602 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnamgu, Ritz Carlton Hotel. eden-club.co.kr 010-9913-3919 Function Itaewon The boutique club hidden in the fancy Macaroni Market restaurant. Tue, Wed, Thu 6 pm – 2:30 am; Fri and Sat 6 pm-3:30 am. 737-50 Hannnam1-dong Yongsan-gu. 02-749-9181 Heaven Gangnam The newest member of Seoul’s club scene combines top-notch technology with divine DJs spinning house and electro beats. W30,000 general admission, W40,000 for after club hours. Near Yeoksam St. clubheaven.co.kr 02-3444-4997 J.J. Mahoney’s The drinks don’t come cheap, but this nightclub at the Grand Hyatt is a favorite with the over-30s crowd. 747-7 Hannam 2-dong. seoul.grand.hyatt.com 02-797-1234 Koobar @Blue Spirit Apgujeong Hip music for a classy crowd. 664-11 Shinsadong, Gangnam-gu. 02-518-5115 M2 Hongdae This long-running club is party central for college students. Sun – Thu 8 pm – 4 am, Fri and Sat 7:30 pm – 6 am. Cover starts at W10,000. 367-11 Seogyo-dong Mapo-gu. ohoo.net/m2 02-3143-7573 NB Hongdae, Gangnam Supposedly the first hip-hop club in Korea, it has one bar, two stages, and a packed crowd. clubnb.com 02-326-1716 Q-vo Hongdae A popular hip hop club with strobes pulsing above the dance floor. Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun 8 pm – 4 am and Wed, Fri, Sat 8 pm – 6:30 am. W10,000 - W15,000. 121-210 Ohoo B/ D 367-1 Seogyo Dong. clubqvo.co.kr 02-3143-7573 Volume Itaewon A true “music lovers” club, Volume is found in the basement of Crown Hotel. Fri and Sat 9 pm - 6 am. W15,000 - W30,000. Crown Hotel B1 clubvolume.com 1544-2635 Woo Bar Check out the split-level lobby

Mystik Itaewon DJ Yeonjun and DJ Crew team up with international artists to bring you some off-the-hook parties with minimal, techno, and tech house. 010-3440-9474 Gourmet Foods

High Street Market Itaewon Freshbaked bread, choice beef cuts, imported cheese, and value-for-money wines, and all in one shop. 737-24 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu. 02-790-5450 Cafes

Caffé Bene Coffee, gelatos, and waffles are on the menu at the 400 Caffé Bene outlets across Korea. caffebene.co.kr 02-3438-6888 Massage

Healing Hands Massage Studio healinghands.co.kr 070-7504-8090 Community

Brazilians in Seoul Also known as Brasileiros em Seul, this group meets up on the 3rd Tuesday of each month. alocoreia@gmail.com 010-9631-2133 Gangnam Hills Toastmasters Club Helping you develop oral communication and leadership skills. koreatraining@ yahoo.com 010-8779-1969 Korea Baby Network Korea’s only non-profit birth and breastfeeding education group. We offer classes and connections with doulas, birth educators, and families. Facebook: Korea Baby Network koreababynetwork.com Republicans Abroad Monthly meetings, events, and lectures for supporters of the USA Republican Party. kmohay@hotmail.com 010-8688-9810 Museums

Gahoe Museum gahoemuseum.org 02-741-0466 World Jewelry Museum wjmuseum.com 02-730-1610 Kimchi Field Museum kimchimuseum.co.kr 02-6002-6456 Kyung-in Museum of Fine Art Kyunginart.co.kr 02-733-4448 Leeum Samsung Museum of Art leeum.org 02-2014-6901 Museum of Korean Traditional Music ncktpa.go.kr 02-580-3130 National Folk Museum nfm.go.kr 02-3704-3114 National Museum of Korea museum.go.kr 02-2077-9000 National Palace Museum of Korea gogung.go.kr 02-3701-7500 Seoul Art Center sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Seoul Museum of Art seoulmoa.seoul.go.kr 02-120 Seoul National Science Museum ssm.go.kr 02-3668-2200 War Memorial warmemo.or.kr 02-709-3139

GANGWON CALENDAR Performance Ongoing The Manic Show: Comedy and Magic Magician Choi Hyeon-u and comedian Jo Won-seok will entertain you with amusing magic tricks and gags. Gangwon Tourist Pension in Jeongsun. Saturdays and Sundays, 7 pm. W20,000. ticket.interpark.com 033-592-5942 April 22nd “Gag Concert” Comedy Show You’ve seen Korean comedy shows on TV, but I bet you’ve never attended one in person. Join the KBS comedy team for some (Korean-language) laughs. Baeckryung Art Center in Chuncheon. 3:30 & 6:30 pm. W44,000 - W70,000. ticket.interpark.com 1644-8246

Family & Community

Sport & Fitness May 12th Inje Naeri Stream Marathon 5k, 10k and half. W20,000 - W30,000. Register by April 20th. run1080.com 042-638-1087

Dine & Drink Ongoing Institute of Traditional Korean Cooking The facilities here include traditional Korean lodgings, a traditional Korean culinary museum, a traditional gallery, a traditional restaurant, and even a traditional pond. Are you getting the picture? The institute was established to preserve Korean traditional cuisine and to share it with others. ktfce.com 033-333-1012

April 9th - 10th

gangwon PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance Chuncheon Online Info tour.chuncheon.go.kr/eng

Hoengseong Hoedaji Song Festival Experience some of Gangwon Province’s folk songs at this festival in Hoengseong, along with the deodeok mountain root and Anheung steamed buns. Jeonggeum Folk Museum, Ucheon-myeon, Hoengseong-gun. tour.hsg.go.kr/tour 033-340-2223 April 27th - 29th King Dangjong Cultural Festival King Danjong is the only king who was not given a proper funeral among the 27 kings of the Joseon Dynasty. After granting him a state funeral 550 years after his death, the city of Yeongwol turned the ceremony into a yearly ritual. Jangreung, Cheongryeongpo, banks of the Dong River. ywtour.com 1577-0545

Education & Conferences Ongoing Pottery Making Class Professional potters teach you how to fire pottery by hand. Your pottery will be shipped to you. Seokbong Ceramic Museum in Sokcho. Closed Mon. 9 am – 6 pm (3 hours per lesson). W15,000. dogong.net 033-638-7711 Experiencing the Culture of North Korea You can stay overnight at traditional North Korea-style houses. There are 5 kinds of houses. Sokcho Museum and Displaced Citizens Folk Village. W50,000 - W80,000. sokchomuse.go.kr 033-639-2977 April 6th - 7th Hutos, Seeds of Life: Family Musical In this family-oriented musical, children’s character Hutos and friends go in search of the seeds of life. Korean language. Chuncheon Culture & Art Center. 4/6: 11 am, 2 pm, 4 pm; 4/7 11 am, 2 pm, 4 pm. W20,000 - W30,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-582-1089

disc ov ery

Hotels/Accommodations Hotel Inter-Burgo Wonju wonju.inter-burgo.com 033-766-8000 W Hotel Wonju w-hotel.co.kr 033-742-5454

Medical Services Gangwon National University Hospital Chuncheon k nuh.or.kr/html 033-258-2000 Gangnam Hospital Chuncheon ekangnam.co.kr 033-240-7000 Hyundai Animal Clinic Chuncheon dog7582.co.kr 033-256-7582 Ye Dental Clinic Chuncheon ccye.co.kr 033-262-2078

Libraries Chuncheon City Library iccl.or.kr 033-254-3887 Taebaek Municipal Library tbmlib.or.kr 033-550-2755

Museums Bangsan Porcelain Museum Yanggu Browse through the exhibits of Joseonera white clay pottery or sign up for classes to learn how to make it yourself. 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W1,000, teens W700, children W500. bangsanm.or.kr 033-480-2664 Byeolmaru Observatory Yeongwol At 800 meters above sea level, this is your best chance to see the stars on the Korean peninsula. Five tours daily at 2, 3, 6, 8, and 9 pm. Adults W5,000, students W4,000. yao.or.kr 033-374-7460 Mooee Arts Center Pyeongchang Sculpture garden, painting exhibits, and pottery, illustration, and calligraphy workshops available for individuals and groups upon request. 9 am – 7 pm. Adults W2,000, students W1,000. Closed 1st and 3rd Mon. mooee.co.kr 033-335-6700 Sokbong Ceramic Museum Sokcho The pottery on display here spans the United Silla,Goryeo, and Joseon Dynasties. Pottery lessons available. 9 am – 6 pm. Adults W3,500, teens W2,000, children W1,500. Closed Mon. dogong.net 033-638-7711

Appeasing the Virgin’s Wrath Haesindang Park

Phallic statuary stands out at one of Korea’s most surprising parks. Along the southern tip of Gangwon-do, along the Yellow Sea, is a tiny fishing village called Sinnam. For over four decades, visitors have flocked here to explore Haesindang Park (해신당 공원) the headland park dedicated to a drowned virgin. Walking through the park, you will read about the legend of a young virgin who was swept out to sea. As the story goes, the virgin’s spirit was angered by her fate, and the tiny fishing village suffered as her fury began to disrupt the fishermen’s daily catch. One afternoon, a wise fisherman placed a phallic offering along the nearby headland overlooking the water. His kind gesture calmed the virgin, allowing him access to the plentiful sea. After this, other fisherman began placing phallic sculptures on the headland as well. Today, over 100 sculptures have been dedicated to the virgin. They are carved from wood, sculpted out of marble and erected from steel. These symbols of plentiful fish come in various sizes, shape and color. In addition to the sculptures, visitors can also stop by the Fishing Village Folk Museum on the park grounds. It was designed and built to replicate a fishing vessel. The exhibits at the museum describe the legend, the history of the fishing village, and Shamanistic rituals of the region. It also discusses the sexual iconography of other cultures through various works of art and sculpture. G e tti n g T h e r e You can reach Sinnam

by bus or car from Samcheok along Route 7, and it takesabout 45 minutes to the headland entrance. Catch the #24 bus from Samcheok’s inner city terminal every hour (W1,600). The park is closed on Monday. Open March to October 9 am to 6 pm and November to February 9 am to 5 pm. The entrance fee includes the Folk Museum. Adults W3,000, teens W2,000, children W1,500 (though some parental discretion is advised).

Words and shots by A aro n J Jackso n C rabb

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GANGWON

March 30th - April 1st Eunggol Strawberry Festival The festival features activities such as picking strawberries, making strawberry jam and baking cookies. Eunggol Strawberry Village, Sokcho-si, Gangwon-do. Picking strawberries: W10,000. sokchoberry.com/shop 033-635-3338

April 7th - 8th The Fantasy Magic Bubble Show Bubbles float up and over the auditorium seats at this entertaining show. 4/7 - 4/8 Gangneung Dano Center. 4/7 Pyeongchang Culture & Art Center. 12 am, 2 pm, 4 pm. W20,000. ticket.interpark.com 1566-9921

Ballantine’s Championship 2012 Words by Darrell Sl ater

April 26th - 27th

he Ballantine’s Championship returns to the Korean peninsula this April – and it’s celebrating its fifth birthday. The golf event arrives on Korean shores only once a year as part of the European Tour’s Asian schedule. Competitions are also held in Malaysia and China throughout April, giving spectators in the Far East a chance to observe some of the world’s top golfing talents. Korea’s most prominent golf competition, the Ballantine’s Championship will be held this year at the Blackstone Golf Club in Icheon, Gyeonggi-do on April 26th to 27th. Last year was the first time the championship was hosted there after spending its first three years on Korea’s famous holiday island of Jeju. The Pinx Golf Club was the location for those previous three competitions but it was decided in 2011 that the tournament should be moved to the mainland and, more importantly, closer to the capital. The tournament has brought a host of big-name golfers to Korea over the past five years. Previous winners at Ballantine’s include Graeme McDowell (2008), Thong60 | 10 Magazine April 2012

chai Jaidee (2009) and Malcolm Fraser (2010), who all won while the tournament was held in Jeju. England’s Lee Westwood won the inaugural Ballantine’s Championship held at Blackstone GC last year. Westwood narrowly beat out tour legend Miguel Angel Jiménez by one shot. The Spaniard missed a 15-foot birdie on the final hole to lose his chance of a playoff with Westwood. At the time, the win gave Westwood his second consecutive tournament win and cemented his place as the world’s number one ranked golfer. This year, to help celebrate the fifth anniversary of the tournament, major winners Darren Clarke and Korean ace Y.E. Yang will headline a list of impressive par-

ticipants in the competition. World number eight Adam Scott, from Australia, will make his debut at the event this year. Korean fans will be excited to see British Open champion Darren Clarke, but Y.E. Yang will surely be a firm home favorite with the locals. Yang, hailing from Jejudo, became the first Asian player to win a Major event in 2009 when he won the PGA Championship. He has missed the cut in the last two Ballantine’s Championships. Miguel Angel Jiménez, who is also returning to this year’s field, has some unfinished business after only just missing out on first place last year. He will be determined to go one better this time around. The pick of the top class field is completed by eccentric Englishman Ian Poulter. Poulter and Jiménez combined have accumulated an impressive 29 tour victories. Poulter is also no stranger to winning in Asia, having won the UBS Hong Kong Open in 2010. Tickets for the Ballantine’s Open will be sold at the Blackstone GC’s entrance throughout the tournament dates but are available for pre-purMiguel Angel chase on the web via Interpark and Jimenez JGolf. Prices range from W50,000 placed second – W100,000 for day passes. in last year’s ballantineschampionship.com championship.

Images courtesy of the Ballantine’s Championship

Y. E. Yang takes a swing.

GYEONGGI CALENDAR Art Through April 15th Face Unlock Exhibition Artwork that seeks to express itself through facial expressions. Jangheung Art Park in Yangju. artpark.co.kr 031-877-0500 Through June 30th Art Folly 2012 Cubrick An outdoor art and architecture exhibit in which all of the works on display are cube-shaped. LED lights and stacked structures make a uniquely cubical experience. Children’s programs also available. National Museum of Contemporary Art, Gwacheon. Closed Mon. Free. moca.go.kr 02-2188-6000

April 28th - May 20th Icheon Ceramic Festival Icheon is a center of ceramic activity in Korea. Make your own pottery and enjoy performances weekdays 10 am - 6 pm and weekends 9 am - 7 pm. Seolbong Park in Icheon. ceramic.or.kr 031-644-2944

Sport & Fitness April 29th Gwacheon Marathon Festival 5k, 10k, half, and full marathon to depart at 8 am from Gwacheon Munwon Sports Park. Register by April 13th. W30,000 W35,000. gcrun.net 02-521-1704

Family & Community April 6th Jazz Tonight with Kim Gi-cheol Performing together with Jazz Tonight, saxophonist Kim Gi-Cheol will present famous smooth jazz selections from Kenny G, Richie Cole, Billy Joel, and others. Uijeongbu Arts Center. 8 pm. W10,000. uac.or.kr 031-828-5841 April 7th Pianist Oleg Poliansky in Concert Ukranian pianist Poliansky will play pieces by Beethoven, Brahms, Schubert, and Rachmaninoff. Uijeongbu Arts Center. 3 pm. W12,000. uac.or.kr 031-828-5841 April 28th

gyeongGI province Religious Services

Dongsan Church Ansan 010-2910-7809 Global Mission Church Bundang jiguchon.org 031-710-5923 Grace & Truth Church Anyang, Ansan, and Suwon Sunday 9:30 am, 11 am, 1 pm, grace-truth.org 031-443-3731 Museums

Central America Culture Center Goyang latina.or.kr 031-962-7171 Elvis Presley Memorial Hall Paju paju.go.kr 031-948-3358 Face Museum Gwangju (Gyeonggi Province) visagej.org 031-765-3522 Korean Lamp (Deung-Jan) Museum Yongin deungjan.or.kr/eng 031-334-0797 Waltz & Dr. Mahn Coffee Museum Namyangju wndcof.com 031-576-6051 Transportation

International Taxi (English speaking) 1644-2255 Jumbo Taxi Service (more expensive) 02-888-2000 Radio

The Moscow Children’s Choir This choir returns to Korea to sing songs from around the globe from “The Sound of Music” to “Arirang.” Gunpo Culture and Art Center. 7 pm. W20,000 W25,000. gunpoart.net 031-390-3501 April 26th Aramnuri Matinée Concert The Prime Philharmonic Orchestra will be performing pieces by Puccini, Donizetti, Berlioz, and Tchaikovsky. Goyang Aramnuri Arts Center. 11 am. W15,000. artgy.or.kr 1577-7766 April 27th - 29th Mamma Mia: The Musical In their 822nd show since 2004, an all-Korean cast performs the world-famous rock opera. Gyeonggi Arts Center in Suwon. Fri 7:30 pm, Sat 3, 7:30 pm, Sun 3 pm. W30,000 W110,000. ggac.or.kr 1544-2344

Education & Conferences Through April 1st Provence Village Light Festival This beautiful light festival is divided into charming themes like the four seasons, heart park, and sea of love. Paju, north of Seoul. 6 - 11 pm. W3,000 - W5,000. provence.co.kr 1644-8088 April 6th - 8th Yangpyung Cornel Festival The Japanese cornel flower, referred to as sansuyu (산수유) in Korean, is the subject of this festival. One tip for tipplers: try the locally produced cornel alcohol. sansu.invil.org/sight/festival/sansu

US Armed Forces Network Dongducheon AM 1197/FM 88.3 Pyongtaek AM 1440/FM 88.3 Songtan AM 1359/FM 88.5 Uijeongbu AM 1161/FM 88.5 Bars/Lounges/Pubs

The Big Chill Suwon Chill out in a big way with the friendly crowd while enjoying a game of pool, darts, or wii. Opens 8 pm on Wed – Sat and 4 pm on Sun. Facebook group, edwardjorgensen@gmail.com Dublin Bar Bundang Open mic every Wednesday at 9 pm 031-708-7942 Jukjeon Gecko’s Yongin Bundang and Yongin expats should be ecstatic to know that the famous Gecko’s chain is expanding south. Near the Shinsegye department store. geckosterrace.com 031-262-9974 The Park Bucheon There are three kinds of draft beer and cocktails for your thirst, Western food for your hunger, and four LCD TVs for your sports fixation. Jung-dong in Bucheon. Facebook group 010-3136-0153 Rhythm & Booze Bucheon Open mic nights, sports, concerts, and parties make this a favorite of Bucheon’s expats. Behind the CGV in Jung-dong. Open at 4 pm on Mon – Fri, 11 am on weekends. Facebook group 032-323-0161 Indie Suwon Suwon Get your groove on at Suwon’s premier live music stage, home of the Suwon Open Mic Night held every 4th Saturday. Facebook group, edwardjorgensen@gmail.com Clubs

Club Psycho Anyang General open mic every 3rd Friday of the month at 11pm. bcmusicworld.com 010-7754-0409

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CHUNGCHEONG CALENDAR Art

Family & Community

Through April 22nd Art Cultivation Exhibition Featuring work by ten artists who are living or have lived in Chungcheong Province. Daejeon Museum of Art. 10 am – 6 pm. Fri 10 am - 9 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W500, children W300. dmma.metro.daejeon.kr 042-602-3200

March 30th - April 1st Seedling Festival Okcheon Iwon Sapling Distribution Center in Okcheon-gun. festival.oc.go.kr/seedling 043-730-3281

March 30th - November 18th Russia Picture Exhibition Experience Russian landscape, religion, culture, life and art through these sixty pieces of modern art. Asia Museum in Daejeon. 10 am – 6 pm, Sun 1 – 6 pm. Closed Mon. asiamuseum.asia 042-863-0055

Performances

Paragliding

Your Hour in the Sky

CHUNGCHEONG

It’s a bird – it’s a plane – it’s a paraglider! “Three…two…one…run!” Darting towards the side of the mountain, pulling an outstretched parachute behind me, feeling my heart racing and a lump in my throat, I hurled myself off a cliff in Danyang for my first tandem paragliding experience. Leaning back in the harness, my fears subsided and I enjoyed the twenty-minute flight above the rural landscape. Paragliding in Korea is an experience everyone should have, if not for the thrill, then for the peaceful moments while in flight when you can look down and admire Korea’s vast mountains. One excellent organization that can help you get up in the air is Paraglide Danyang. The activity is easily booked through a phone call a few days before your desired flight date. If you remind them, they can even make a video of your experience and email it to you, giving you a great keepsake of your actionpacked day in the not-so-sleepy town of Danyang. To make the most of your experience, be sure to wear sneakers and pants or you’ll be borrowing them from fellow paragliders as you wait atop the mountain for a gust of wind in the right direction. You should also set aside an afternoon for paragliding because waiting for the breeze to pick up is, wait for it, not always a breeze. You may find yourself gliding off the mountain within minutes of arrival or enjoying the outdoors and the friendly atmosphere the instructors create for an hour or so before flight begins. Nonetheless, paragliding high above the ground is an unforgettable experience, and well worth the W80,000 that your t went yminute soar session will cost. G e tti n g T h e r e Take a bus to Danyang

as it will leave you closer to the pickup point than the train station. Call the instructors before you arrive and they can transport you to the paragliding location free of charge. Call 010-9072-4553 to speak to the English-speaking instructor.

Words and shots by C h e lsi e Ko z e ra

T ip To get a taste of the

62 | 10 Magazine April 2012

paragliding experience before you go, check out Chelsie’s homemade video on YouTube at bit.ly/z8sL5V.

April 3rd and 8th Pg.Lost and No Respect for Beauty in Concert Swedish indie band Pg. Lost will be visiting Chungcheong Province as part of their 6-show, 6-city, 6-day whistlestop tour through South Korea. 4/3 Dolce in Cheonan. 4/8 Cantina in Daejeon. W15,000 in advance, W20,000 at the door. supercolorsuper.com April 7th Risorgente Opera Company’s Night of Korean Songs Daejeon Culture and Arts Center. 7 pm. W20,000 - W50,000. djac.or.kr 042-610-2222 April 10th

Through April 6th Camellia Octopus Festival Much to our disappointment, we discovered that camellia was a type of flower, and not the name of an octopus. Camellia Forest, Maryang-ri, Seo-myeon, Seocheon-gun. tour.seocheon.go.kr 041-950-4256 April 6th - 8th Religious Ritual for the Mt. Gyeryong Spirit Take part in ancient rites dedicated to the spirit of the mountain. Sinwon Temple in Yanghwa-ri, Gyeryong-myeon, Gongju. tour.gongju.go.kr April 12th - 15th Gijisi Tug-of-War Tug-of-war is a traditional event believed to ensure a good harvest. Playing tug-of-war brings people in villages together, vital to ensuring a rich year. Gijisi-ri, Songak-myeon, Dangjingun. gijisi.org 041-355-8118 April 13th - 15th Gyeryong Mountain Blossom Festival The cherry blossoms are in full bloom. Donghaksa in Hakbong-ri, Banpomyeon, Gongju-si. 042-825-2570 Nonsan Strawberry Festival At this festival, you can pick and eat strawberries to your heart’s content. nsfestival.co.kr 041-733-0861 April 22nd - May 8th Taean Tulip Festival Breathe the refreshing spring air and the beautiful scent of thousands of flowers at Nature World in Sinon-ri, Nam-myeon, Taean-gun. ffestival.co.kr 041-675-7881

CHUNGCHEONG PROVINCE Victoria Mullova and the Basel Chamber Orchestra This program includes Beethoven’s Violin Concerto in D Major and Symphony No. 7 and Kelterborn’s Four Movements for Classical Orchestra. Daejeon Culture and Arts Center. 7:30 pm. W10,000 W100,000. djac.or.kr 042-610-2222 April 13th Ryu Bok-sung Jazz Concert Ryu Bok-sung is called The King of Jazz in Korea. Bongseo Hall near Cheonan City Hall. W30,000 - W50,000. 7:30 pm. cheonan.go.kr 041-521-2011 April 17th Pianist Park Jeong-hwa Enjoy a classical piano recital at the Daejeon Culture and Arts Center. 11 am. W10,000. djac.or.kr 042-610-2222 April 21st Lee Seung-Cheol Concert: Request Show Recognized as Best Male Singer at the Korean Music Awards, Lee Seungcheol has had success both as the lead singer of Korean rock band Boohwal and in his solo career as a soft-rock and pop artist. KOTRA Trade Exhibition Center in Daejeon. W77,000 - W121,000. 7 pm. kotrex.com 042-365-3000 Sweet Sorrow Concert: Viva In celebration of their third album, male acapella and pop group Sweet Sorrow are holding a concert at Daejeon Woosong Art Center. 6 pm. W77,000. woosongart.co.kr 042-629-6363

Foreigner Assistance Daejeon International Community Center dicc.or.kr 042-223-0789 Daejeon jungwonh@hotmail.com

Hotels/Accommodations New Korea Hotel Asan 041-542-8151 Onyang Hot Spring Hotel Asan 041-545-2141 Cheonan Central Hotel Cheonan 041-564-9100 Yuseong Hotel Daejeon 042-822-9591 The Sky Blue Bird Seosan 011-382-1862 Golden Wave Taean 041-675-2008

Restaurants/Supermarkets First Nepal Restaurant Cheongju firstnepal.com 043-260-5363 Gasan Korean, Cheonan 041-561-9500 Spain House Spanish, Cheonan 041-571-7474 Olive Farms Buffet, Cheongju 043-215-3311

Museums Alcohol Museum: Liquorium Chungju liquorium.com 043-855-7333 Gonam Shell Mound Museum Taean-gun Anmyeon Island museum.taean.go.kr 041-670-2337 Jincheon Bell Museum Jincheon-gun jincheonbell.net 043-539-3850 Korea Traditional Architecture Museum Yesan-gun English site: ktam.or.kr 041-337-5877

JEOLLA CALENDAR Performances Ongoing Gugak Saturday Performance The South Jeolla Provincial Gugak Troupe has held more than 1,300 Korean classical music performances since 1986. Performances every Saturday, 5 pm, at Mokpo Citizen’s Culture and Athletic Center. W5,000. art.mokpo.go.kr 061-270-8375 March 31st - April 1st The Good Person of Szechwan: The Play Performed in Korean by the Jeonju City Theatre Troupe. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 3 pm. Adults W15,000, Teens W10,000. sori21.co.kr 063-270-8000 April 4th Pg.Lost and No Respect for Beauty in Concert Swedish indie band Pg. Lost will be visiting Gwangju as part of their 6-show, 6-city, 6-day whistlestop tour through South Korea. W15,000 in advance, W20,000 at the door. Zeppelins in Gwangju. supercolorsuper.com

Family & Community March 30th - April 1st Pasque Flower Spring Outing Stop and smell the pasque flowers as you take part in folk games and sample some traditional food. Hanjae Park, Deoksan-ri, Hoejin-myeon, Jangheung. travel.jangheung.go.kr 011-646-5643 March 30th - April 8th Gwangju Spring Flowers Exhibition At this exhibition, visitors can expect performances, activities, and, of course, spring flowers. Kim Daejung Convention Center in Gwangju. 10 am 6 pm. Children W3,000, Adults W5,000. flowershow.kr 062-611-2000

April 6th - 9th Yeongam Wangin Culture Festival The festival schedule includes a parade, displays of Yeongam’s special products, and a health-oriented tour. Yeongam Ceramic Museum and other locations in Yeongam. wanginfs.yeongam.go.kr 061-470-2347 April 7th - 8th Yudalsan Flower Festival Yudalsan, which overlooks the harbor and the southern sea in Mokpo, is the theme of this spring festival. Activities include a flower parade, floral decoration exhibition, drawing contest, and essay contest. Yudalsan in Mokpo. tour.mokpo.go.kr 061-270-8441 April 7th - 9th Jindo: Miraculous Sea Route Each year, thousands of tourists visit Jindo to see the sea road known as “the modern Moses miracle.” The unusually low tides this time of year uncover the sea floor. Hoedong-ri, Gogun-myeon, Jindo-gun. 4/7 5:40, 4/8 6:20, 4/9 9:30. miraclesea.jindo.go.kr 061-544-0151

Education & Conferences Ongoing GIC Talks English lectures on a wide range of subjects such as culture, history, politics, and art. Gwangju International Center. Sat 3 – 4:30 pm. Closed holidays. gic.or.kr 062-226-2733

JEOLLA PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance Gwangju International Center gic.or.kr 062-226-2733 Gwangju Blog gwangjublog.com The Jeonju Hub thejeonjuhub.com

Museums Gochang Dolmen Museum 9 am – 5 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, teens W2,000, children W1,000. gcdolmen.go.kr 063-560-2576 Iksan Jewel Museum 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. jewelmuseum.go.kr 063-834-5100 Jeonju Oriental Medicine Cultural Center 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. hanbangcenter.com 063-232-2500 Jeonju Traditional Alcohol Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Free. urisul.net 063-287-6305 Jeonju Traditional Culture Center jt.or.kr 063-280-7045 Mokpo Ceramic Livingware Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. doja.mokpo.go.kr 0 61-270-8480 Mokpo Natural Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. museum.mokpo.go.kr 061-274-3655

Restaurants/Supermarkets First Nepal Restaurant Gwangju firstnepal.com 062-225-8771 Tequilaz Gwangju’s first Mexican cantina serves up your south-of-the-border favorites with magical margaritas and, of course, killer tequilas. tequilaz.com Underground Grocers Gwangju This foreigner-run food shop has those hardto-find cheeses, taco shells and other delicacies you crave. 062-232-2626

An Afternoon of Colors The Shinan Tulip Festival April 20th – 29th

The warm breezes and welcome sunshine of mid-April bring all sorts of f lowers out to grace the entrance of the spring season. Hidden away amongst the thousand islands of Shinan County in the furthest southwest corner of Korea, that flower happens to be tulips, to the tune of six million bulbs. For the third week of April every year, the fields of the Shinan Tulip Festival explode with an array of colors in seemingly endless well-cultivated rows. Unlike many rural festivals, the labeling of flowers in both Korean and English is a welcome sight for those interested in putting a name to the petals. Picturesque windmills and striking sculptures along with ornate (albeit overpriced) horse-drawn carriage rides add to the romantic atmosphere. Photography of the festival and the surrounding islands are showcased in tents. If you need a breather from flowers galore, find a spot on Shinan Beach right next door to admire the crashing waves or take in an evening show at the visiting Chinese circus. You can even check out the surprisingly random ostrich farm and deer ranch set inside the festival grounds. Of course, small pots of tulips can be purchased from vendors in both Shinan and Jido to take home. Either way, the festival promises a pleasant, easygoing sunny afternoon for anyone who makes the trip. G e tti n g T h e r e From Gwangju, take a direct route bus to Muan (무안), transfer to a bus to Jido (지도), and take the free ferry to Shinan, where a free shuttle bus will drop you off just outside the festival. Travel time is just under 2 hours, costing W10,000 ,and admission into the festival is W4,000. shinantulip.co.kr 061-240-8880

Words and shots by B aru n S arkar

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JEOLLA

April 1st - 30th Cheongsando Slow Walking Festival Give yourself some time to recharge in Cheongsando as you soak in this small island’s natural beauty, culture, and history. Cheongsando, located just south of Wando. slowcitywando.com

GYEONGSANG calendar disc ov ery

Namhae Goes Pink with Cherry Blossoms Cherry blossom season in early April is no doubt one of the most colorful times of year on Namhae Island. Towards the end of March leading into April, the trees start to come into bloom. With a milder climate compared to areas further to the north, Namhae residents get to enjoy the pink petals a little early. The benefits of a temperate climate continue all year, of course, as summer lasts longer and the autumn is the most spectacular in the area. The island of Namhae, often referred to as “Treasure Island,” has a lot of beautiful sights to offer. You can follow the area’s “Scenic Road,” well marked with street signs, as you travel from treasure to treasure. Your exploration will take you from beautiful sandy beaches to mountain areas topped with mystic temples, of which Boriam Temple (보리암) is the most famous. The vivid colors of spring on Namhae include pink buds opening into white cherry blossoms, yellow cornel flowers, the green garlic fields, and above all a clear blue sky. Spring is the perfect season to go wandering around the island with picnic basket in hand. If you are into golf, you can experience the beauty of spring at the popular golf course at the Namhae Hilton, while other sports such as trekking and kayaking are also quite popular on the island. G e tti n g T h e r e The easiest way to reach Namhae is by car or bus. The

island is about four and a half hours from Seoul and an hour’s drive from Yeosu and Jinju or Sacheon. The new KTX line running to Yeosu will take you most of the way there, wherever you may be in Korea.

Words and shots by St efa no Ruz z a

Art Ongoing Geert Jan Jansen and Ellen Van Baren Art Exhibition Dutch artist Geert Jan Jansen is influenced by Picasso and Warhol, and his wife Ellen Van Baren is noted for her soft pencil drawings of Oriental women, birds, and flowers. Their artwork is on monthly rotation at the Netherland Art Gallery in Busan. 12 - 7 pm. Closed Mon. Free. english.busan.go.kr 051-741-3622 Through March 31st Memory of Place Seven Korean artists express their concept of place through the artwork on display here. Cyan Art Museum in Yeongcheon-si. Mon - Fri 10:30 am - 7 pm. Sat & Sun 10:30 am – 6:30 pm. cyanmuseum.org 054-338-9391 Through May 28th Truc Art Exhibit The French word truc means “trick.” At the Truc Art Exhibit, you can see, touch and experience 2D artwork that will “trick” you into thinking it’s 3D. Ariwon Museum in front of the Hilton Hotel in Gyeongju. 10 am - 8 pm. W12,000. trucart.com 054-745-8111

Theater & Dance Ongoing Korean Music and Dance in Busan Every Saturday there are traditional Korean performances at the National Gugak Center in Busan. 4 pm. W8,000. busan.gugak.go.kr 051-811-0040 Miso II: Shilla, The Land of Gods This non-verbal performance illustrates the thousand-year history of Shilla with age-old Korean dance and music. Three acts touch upon the divine founding of Shilla, the love story of Seondeok & Yongchun, and the Silla Road. Expo Cultural Center of the Gyeongju World Culture Expo. Tue - Sun 7 pm. Closed Mon. W20,000 – W50,000. sillamiso. chongdong.com 054-740-3800 Through April 1st Fountain: The Play This is the 156th annual performance of the Poyang City Theatre Troupe. Pohang Culture and Art Center. phart.ipohang.org 054-270-5483

GYEONGSANG

Concerts April 5th - 6th Pg.Lost and No Respect for Beauty in Concert Swedish indie band Pg. Lost will be visiting Gyeongsang Province as part of their 6-show, 6-city, 6-day whistlestop tour through South Korea. 4/5 Urban in Daegu. 4/6 Rock House in Busan. W15,000 in advance, W20,000 at the door. supercolorsuper.com April 7th Jang Sa-ik Concert: “Goodbye to Spring” Jang Sa-ik, one of the foremost voices in the movement to combine Korean traditional music with modern music, gives a tribute to spring at the Chunma Art Center in Gyeongsan-si. cmac.ac.kr 053-810-1527 April 10th Harim with the Gipsy and Fish Orchestra Multi-instrumentalist Harim has returned from a tour of the world in which he picked up even more musical instruments. See what he learned at this concert held at the Andong Culture and Art Hall. andongart.go.kr 054-840-3600 April 12th - 13th Pictureplane Live in Concert Travis Egedy, a.k.a. performance artist

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Pictureplane, is a growing force in the electronic scene. 4/12 Urban in Daegu. 4/13 Almost Famous in Busan. 10 pm. W10,000 in advance, W15,000 at the door. supercolorsuper.com April 22nd

Boney M: “Disco” Concert Though they were most popular during the disco generation of the 70s, vocal group Boney M continues to perform today - albeit with different members. Chunma Art Center in Gyeongsan-si. cmac.ac.kr 053-810-1528 April 24th Three Tastes, Three Colors: Violin, Viola, & Cello A beautiful ensemble of violin, viola, and cello will perform soothing pieces by Beethoven, Kreisler, Godard, and Brahms. Andong Culture and Art Center. 7:30 pm. W10,000. andongart.go.kr 054-840-3600 April 27th

No Age in Concert American indie rock duo No Age is bringing sounds from the LA underground scene to Korean audiences. Vinyl Underground in Busan. W20,000 in advance, W25,000 at the door. supercolorsuper.com April 28th Jang Yun-jeong in Concert Jang Yun-jeong is the undisputed queen of trot, the Korean musical genre especially popular in the 70s and 80s. Sungsang Art Hall in Changwon. ticket. interpark.com 055-268-7900

Family & Community Ongoing ClayArch Exhibition See clay art and architecture and make your own piece of art at the ClayArch Gimhae Museum. Closed Mon. 10 am - 6 pm. Exhibit: Adult W2,000, children W500. Clay Academy: W5,000 - W10,000. clayarch.org 055-340-7060 Through June 10th Dinosaur World Expo 2012 This expo is based on two topics from elementary and middle school textbooks: “Rain Saves the Earth” and “A Story of Layers and Fossils.” Goseong-gun. W8,000 - W15,000 dinoexpo.com 080-2006-114 April 6th - 10th Jinhae Military Band and Honor Guard Festival Show your support for the Korean armed forces at this military band festival in Jinhae. Jinhae Public Stadium. gunhang.changwon.go.kr 055-225-2341

April 28th – May 6th Mungyeong Chatsabal Pottery Festival Chatsabal refers to traditional Korean pottery and tea vessels. This festival gives curious youngsters (and oldsters, too) an opportunity to go for a round on the potter’s wheel. Located at the “Open Set” in Mungyeong. sabal21.com 054-550-3695 April 26th - 29th Yeongcheon Boheon Mountain Star Light Festival It’s not always easy to catch a glimpse of stars in the big city, but a trip to the country can change that. Open your eyes to the greatness of the night sky with the telescopes at the Boheonsan Observatory in Yeongcheonsi. star.yc.go.kr 054-330-6582

Gyeongsang Foreigner Assistance Busan Foundation for Int’l Activities bfia.or.kr 051-668-7900 Geoje Foreign Resident Association gfra.net 055-687-9332 Ulsan Global Center 052-229-2810 Ulsan Online ulsanonline.com

Hotels/Accommodations 4 – 5 Star Hotels Busan Lotte Hotel 051-810-1000 Novotel Ambassador 051-743-1234 Seacloud 051-933-1000 Daegu Novotel Ambassador 053-664-1101 Hostels Busan Arpina 051-740-3228 Zen Backpackers 010-8722-1530

Bars/Lounges/Pubs

Restaurants Busan Ganga Indian Opposite Haeundae Beach. ganga.co.kr 051-740-6670 Gecko’s Western Perched on lovely Haeundae Beach at the Pale de CZ, you can get all of that authentic Western food you’re used to back home, and you’ll find bartenders who know how to mix a real margarita. 051-747-3069 Il Sole Italian Quality food with a great view of Haeundae Beach. 051-747-4253 Samarkand Russian Uzbeki restaurant serving kebabs, soups and stews. Busan Station. 051-581-4050

March 29th - April 1st Busan Urban Agriculture Fair BEXCO in Busan. 10 am - 5 pm. W3,000. bexco.co.kr 051-740-7340 Busan Housing Interior Exhibition BEXCO in Busan. 10 am - 6 pm. W3,000. livingexpo.co.kr 051-740-7705 International Health Care & Medical Expo Focusing on wellness in an aging society. BEXCO in Busan. 10 am - 6 pm. Free. iwimexpo.co.kr 051-740-7336

Daegu Berkeley Italian 053-421-8577 Buy the Book Western This bookstore and café is your source for free yoga, theater, and parties. Downtown Daegu. Open weekends. buythebookcafe@ yahoo.com Café Francesco Italian Near Rodeo Street. 053-252-9625 Dijon French Up-market French and Mediterranean cuisine. 053-422-2426 Hami Mami’s American One of Daegu’s best brunches. 50m from the US base. 8 am – 10 pm. 053-475-5242

Clubs Daegu Club That Located on the rodeo just down from the Samdok fire station. clubthat.co.kr 053-427-7171 Old Skool Hip hop bar great for dancing, socializing or drinking. “Old SkooL: Daegu Muzik Club Bar” on Facebook. Busan Elune Lots of international acts. Paradise Hotel 010-5525-4055 Maktum Club dancing, events, launching shows, sports parties. 9 pm – 6 am. maktum.co.kr, 051-742-0770 NEO Starface “Latin Club” Free salsa classes weekdays from 8 pm. Saturdays boast a live band and/or DJs. Haeundae. 051-746-1746 Vinyl Underground Delivers fresh breaks, house, funk, electro, tech house, hip hop. B2 Han La Building. 9 pm - 6 am. 051-628-0223

Live Music Venues Busan Club Interplay cafe.daum.net/ interplaycafe 051-517-4773 Daegu Club Heavy cafe.daum.net/clubheavy96 010-2338-1340 Gyeongju Club Metal Boys cafe.daum.net/ metalboys 011-9599-8370

Religious Services Baekangro Church Busan 051-898-3740 Bujeon Church bujeon.org 051-807-3331 Catholic Center Busan bccenter.or.kr 051-441-6403 Hongbeopsa Temple 051-508-3470 Busan busanbuddhism.com/hannarae Hosanna Church Busan hosanna21.com 051-209-0191 Podowon Church Busan 051-333-3736 Shipyungro Church Busan spr.or.kr 051-220-0200 Sooyeongno Church Busan 051-740-4500 Pusan University of Foreign Studies Busan 051-640-3445 Islamic Mosque Busan busanislam.or.kr 051-518-9991 Okpo Joonang Presbyterian Geoje Island 010-2586-7520, 010-3873-1652 Sumgim Presbyterian Church Geoje Island sumgim.org 010-4577-3096

Becoming a Perfect Sage Dosan Seowon

South Korean paper currency is not just about purchasing goods and services – it can also teach us about the greater good and paying service to the king. Consider the W1,000 bill, which features scholar Yi Hwang (이황), also known by his pen name of Toegye (퇴계). Korean scholar Richard Rutt, who passed away last year, summed up Yi Hwang’s life concisely: “He died in 1570, having spent several periods of life in government service and high office, but always yearning to withdraw to a life of study with a group of disciples. His final retreat was in the beautiful valley of [Dosan], in southeast Korea, where his house still stands. [Toegye] is unquestionably the greatest of Korean philosophers.” Turn over the W1,000 bill and you will see a landscape painting of this beautiful valley and the Confucian academy that remains there to this day. It began in 1560 as Dosan Seodang (도산 서당), and after the death of Yi Hwang, the king commanded that a shrine be built for his memorial tablet and a full scale academy – a seowon (서원) – be founded. The complex of 15 wooden structures, some of them over 400 years old, rises along a gentle hill, surrounded by pine and fronted by the Nakdong River. Though the library, study hall, and other buildings are now completely empty, the site is still profoundly animated by its past. Back at the High Cloud Terrace my study is cool and quiet. A lifetime of books has meant delights without end. What words can I find to describe these pleasures ever fresh?

Translation by Richard Rutt

G e tti n g T h e r e Bus #67 departs four times per day from Andong’s

Intercity Bus Terminal. The site is open until 6 pm in the summer and 5 pm Words and shot by M at t h ew C . C rawford in the winter. 10 Magazine April 2012 | 65

GYEONGSANG

Busan Aligote Wines, cheese platters, and excellent service. Haeundae. 6 pm – 3 am. 051-731-3322 Basement Open mic nights on Tuesdays and parties galore. 011-92942391 Fuzzy Navel Great drinks and great Mexican food as well. 011-1757-6349 The HQ Bar Kyungsung’s only foreignerowned bar with sports and dart games. thehqbar.com Rock ‘n’ Roll House Western-style bar with darts and pool and a great view of Haeundae. 051-742-5553 Sosa Bar A cozy latin bar close to Pusan National University. 051-513-0070 Wolfhound The same classic food and drinks from the Seoul location, but right on Haeundae Beach. 051-746-7913 Daegu Ping Bar Great drinks, a pool table, and music upon request. Samdeok Catholic Church. 7 pm - 5 am. withhyk@hanmail.net 053-422-7708 Jinju Soundgarden Behind Gyeongsang National University. soundgarden. cyworld.com, zakkie@hanmail.net 055-753-2248, 010-6478-2248 (owner)

Education & Conferences

JEJU CALENDAR disc ov ery

Art Through April 1st Fairy Tales and Illustrations: Into Dreamland 148 pieces of art from 51 various illustrators representing 25 different countries from all over the world are being exhibited at Jeju National Museum. Weekdays 9 am - 6 pm, weekends 9 am 7 pm. jeju.museum.go.kr 064-720-8000 Through April 4th Lim Wan-soo Private Exhibition Jeju Culture and Art Center. jejuculture.or.kr 064-710-7605

Performances Ongoing Circus World Happy Town. Andeokmyeon, Seogwipo-si. Reservations required. jejuartcenter.com 064-712-9961

Mongol Horsemanship on Display at Jeju Show

Just under 800 years ago, Jeju Island served not only as a launching point for failed Mongol invasions of Japan, but also as a massive stable and grazing pasture for the empire’s horses. The equine descendents of Genghis Khan’s hordes are familiar to all those visiting Jeju today as the stocky, shaggy ponies ridden by tourists all over the island. Now Jeju’s role in that period of history has taken a far more theatrical form - the mock battle performances at the Ma Park. The show, entitled The Black Flag of Genghis Khan, is presented in four acts spread out over 50 minutes. It features close to 60 professional male and female riders providing a truly spectacular display of equestrian mastery. All the performers are from Mongolia, a land known for its horsemanship, and even more impressively, these riders have competed at the famed Nadam festival. The plot follows the rise of Genghis Khan from a child to the leader uniting all the Mongol tribes. As would be expected, it’s not just horse-riding tricks on display here, as the recreated combat encompasses archery and melee weapons, such as axes and swords. Unfortunately, the show is narrated entirely in Korean, but that doesn’t put much of a damper on the proceedings, given the action-oriented nature of the show. It costs W15,000 for adults, W12,000 for middle and high school-aged students, and W10,000 for children. Jeju residents get tickets at half-price. The show times are at 11 am, 2 pm, and 5 pm, except during the summer months when the 2 pm show is cancelled because of the heat. Although The Black Flag of Genghis Khan is the primary attraction, The Ma Park has far more on hand to entertain visitors. On site you will also find horseback riding, dining facilities, a miniature park, and a Mongolian Folk Village. The Ma Park is located in the Western part of Jeju in the area of Hallim. The easiest way to get there is via car or scooter. Jeju-do, Jeju-si, Hallim-eup, Wollim-ri, San 8. mapark.co.kr Words by I a n H en derson 064-795-8080

66 | 10 Magazine April 2012

Changing Faces Performance In this famous Chinese performance, actors change their masks without touching them. Samgukji Land, Jocheoneup, Jeju-si. 9:40, 10:50 am, 2:40 pm. Adults W12,000, teens W10,000, children W8,000. jeju.to 064-712-9961 Elephant Show You don’t have to go to Southeast Asia to see an elephant. Andeokmyeon, Seogwipo-si. 10:30 am, 2:30, 4:30 pm. Adults W15,000, teens W12,000, children W9,000. jeju.to 064-792-1233

April 20th People with Disabilities Day Commemoration Concert Featuring the Romanian Philharmonic Orchestra. Aramuse Hall. 6 pm. W10,000 - W50,000. aramusehall.com 064-754-4695

Sport & Fitness April 6th - 8th Jeju Cherry Blossom Festival Get ready to dive into these gorgeous white blossoms. Citizen’s Welfare Town. culture.jeju.go.kr 064-728-2754 April 21st - 22nd Halla Mountain Bracken Festival Bracken, or gosari (고사리) in Korean, is a common ingredient in many Korean dishes. You’re most likely to know it as that long brown stem in bibimbap. Jejudo is well-known for its fields of fresh, clean gosari. Sumang-ri, Namwon-eup. culture.jeju.go.kr 064-760-2662

JEJU ISLAND Theme Park

Fanta-Stick: The Musical This comic musical draws upon gugak (traditional Korean music) and throws in some contemporary touches. Joongmoon FantaStick Theatre. 8 pm. W40,000 - W50,000. ticket.interpark.com 064-739-7781 Jump Currently in its second decade, this popular martial arts comic performance shows no signs of slowing. Halla Art Hall at Cheju Halla College. Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun & holidays 8 pm. Closed Mon. W40,000 - W50,000. hijump.co.kr 064-749-0550

Nanta This non-verbal performance, which was first staged more than a decade ago, is a feast for the ears that turns ordinary kitchen pots and pans into a rhythm section. Jeju Media Center in Jeju City. 90 min. Sun 8 pm, Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 8 pm. W40,000 - W50,000. nanta.i-pmc.co.kr 064-723-8878 Seolmundae: Circus Musical Dramatic circus musical Seolmundae is based on old Jeju legends. Jeju Artrium. 5 & 7:30 pm. W16,000. jejuartcenter.com 1577-9575 April 14th - 15th The Ballerina Who Loved a B-Boy This story of a would-be ballerina who falls for a b-boy street dancer is a genre-bending mash-up of break dance and ballet. Jeju Art Center. arts.jeju.go.kr 064-753-2209

Concerts April 5th Night of Song and Aria II The Jeju Provincial Choir will perform at Aramuse Hall. aramusehall.com 064-754-4695

Kimnyoung Maze Park The challenge is the thrill of the search and the reward is the taste of success in ringing the bell! San 16, Kimnyoung-ri, Gujwa-eup, Jejusi, Jeju-do. jejumaze.com 064-782-9266

Radio Arirang Radio Jeju City: FM 88.7 Seogwipo: FM 88.1

Bars/Lounges/Pubs Boris Brewery The brewer at the successful Modern Time Brewpub is opening up another shop with beer and Spanish sangria based on a 30-year-old recipe. 064-726-4141 Bull’s Darts Bar As the name suggests, they’ve got five dart boards, a variety of games, and even a women’s dart league. Near City Hall in Jeju City. 064-759-5559 Modern Time With locations at Grand Hotel Sageori and City Hall, this microbrewery provides beer lovers with some of the best homemade ales in Korea. 064-748-4180

Radio Arirang Radio Jeju City: FM 88.7 Seogwipo: FM 88.1

NETWORKING CALENDAR E dited by T e r e sa F ra n kli n and dav id carru t h

Photos taken at Cena di Peroni, a dinner held for Peroni Beer at Ristorante Esclusivo in Sinsa-dong on February 8th. The meal was prepared by Esclusivo Executive Chef Sebastiano Giangregorio (see article on p. 35).

Wednesday, April 11th BASS Trip to Kojeon Antiques Join BASS for an hour’s bus ride out of Seoul to the Kojeon Antique warehouse. Transport and lunch are included. 9:30 am - 3 pm. W5,000. RSVP at events@britishseoul.com. Wednesday, April 11th BIWA-DIWA Joint Luncheon The ladies from Busan and Daegu will have a chance to swap stories from Korea’s two largest southern cities this month. 10 am - 2 pm. Details TBD. biwa-korea.com Wednesday, April 11th Lunch and Learn with 10 Magazine’s Stephen Revere Linked Seoul is hosting a luncheon with guest speaker Stephen Revere – 10’s managing editor! The event will be held at Between in Itaewon. 12 - 2 pm. linkedseoul.org

Saturday, April 14th Dutch Association in Korea’s Orange Ball Join the Dutch community for its 15th annual ball and enjoy dinner, dance, and live music provided by the Dutch band Grooveline. Dress to impress as the dress code is black tie. Proceeds go to help support local charities, and in particular disadvantaged children. Grand Hyatt Ballroom, Seoul. W200,000. Table reservations available. dutchorangeball.com

with them in mind. Held the final Wednesday of the month. Contact michellefarnsworth@ live.com for details on this month’s event.

Tuesday, April 17th FKCCI Wine Tasting Party Grand Hotel Ambassador. More details will be available soon. fkcci.com

Saturday, May 5th ANZA Korea Ball: A Night at the Casbah This year’s theme is glamorous and exotic Old Morocco. The party starts at 6:30 pm and ends “when the camels come home.” Held at the Grand Hyatt in Seoul. Members W225,000, non-members W245,000, tables available for W2,200,000. anzakorea.com

Wednesday, April 18th Linked Seoul’s Wine Down Wednesday Guests at this monthly event can indulge in free-flowing wine as they make important new connections. To be held at Zelen in Hannam. 7 pm - 10 pm. linkedseoul.org

Wednesday, May 9th SIWA 50th Anniversary Golden Luncheon Commemorating SIWA members of the past 50 years. Enjoy food, champagne, awards, and prize drawings. 11:30 am - 3 pm. Grand Hyatt Seoul. siwapage.com

Wednesday, April 18th SIWA Coffee Morning Enjoy a presentation from video producer Michael Aronson and connect with friends at this monthly meeting. Grand Ambassador Hotel, Seoul. 9:30 - 11:30 am. Members W15,000, non-members W20,000. siwapage.com

Saturday, May 26th The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Ball with BASS Celebrate the Queen’s birthday with the British Association. The evening will feature live music, dinner, wine, and fun. Grand Hyatt Hotel. 6:30 pm. Members W200,000, non-members W220,000. RSVP for this eagerly anticipated charity ball at bassqbbseoul@yahoo.co.uk.

Tuesday, April 24th BASS Monthly Meeting Join BASS for their regular monthly meeting. This month, speaker Kristy Kang from Kang’s Travel will talk about holiday travel options. Bring loose change for the “Small Change, Big Difference” charity box. The Seoul Club, Hallasan Room. 10 am - noon. Members W10,000, non-members W14,000. For more details, visit britishseoul.com. Wednesday, April 25th SIWA Working Women Network Professional women often can’t make the midday meetings. This evening get together is planned

ANZA BASS BIWA DIWA FKCCI SIWA

Australian & New Zealand Association of South Korea British Association of Seoul Busan Int’l Women’s Association Daegu International Women’s Association French Chamber of Commerce and Industry in Korea Seoul Int’l Women’s Association

To list your event, contact David Carruth at calendar@10mag.com or 070-7464-4625 10 Magazine April 2012 | 67

NETWORKING CALENDAR

Thursday, April 12th FKCCI Café du Commerce Enjoy an informal French atmosphere at the monthly Café du Commerce networking event at the Novotel Ambassador Gangnam. Food is served from 6:30 pm to 8:30 pm, but guests are welcome to stay later to listen to the live band. W26,000 includes the all-you-can-eat buffet, cheeses, and wines. fkcci.com

Tuesday, April 17th ANZA Monthly Global Cafe Get together with ANZA and the Korea expat community while enjoying guest presentations over coffee. 10 am. Grand Hyatt, Seoul. Members W12,000, non-members W17,000. Register online at anzakorea.com.

So Long, Soju! Words by Sama n t h a Di x- Hill , I llustration by Leroy K ucia

his time last year I was counting the months until I left Seoul for good. Obviously I’d been misled as this year I find myself doing exactly the same thing. However, this time I’m not getting excited until the fat lady sings. Those of you who have read this column over the past couple of years have probably realized that Korea has not been my most favorite place to live. If you haven’t, then despite what my husband believes, I am clearly not sarcastic enough. Most people I speak to have enjoyed living here so I’m willing to accept that the blame lies squarely with me. Don’t get me wrong; I’ve had moments of deep joy, which usually involved a bus colliding with a taxi, and moments of mild amusement, which usually involved an otherwise conservative businessman winding his way home like a cat with socks on its feet after hours of imbibing. Which brings me to the point of this month’s column. Far too late I’ve come to realize the benefits of soju. Life is better with soju, beer tastes better with soju, and the world with its two-legged antagonists look infinitely better after a bottle of that magical brew. How did I arrive at this conclusion? This December we had our first real visi-

tors in Seoul. Both were young men; one from Germany and one from South Africa and both were eager to see and experience as much of Korea as possible. On the list of things to do besides the usual DMZ, temples, palaces and all the other “cultural stuff” that one does, we included a Korean barbeque, noraebang and screen golf. As I’m sure I’ve mentioned previously, cooking my own food in a restaurant is right up there with standing in a buffet queue. It’s like going to a hairdresser and cutting my own hair. It’s not happening. But, while wrapping my seventh piece of lettuce around another sad-looking spring onion I realized that everything was suddenly extremely funny. My husband clutching at his right breast while pouring my drink reduced me to tears of mirth. It’s a habit that he’s picked up since living here and one I hope he loses once we leave. But the point is, I enjoyed the whole smoky performance simply because I was under the influence of soju. Life was good. A couple of nights later we took our guests to play screen golf. If you’ve never tried it you should. It’s basically indoor golf and has very little to do with your ability as a golfer, especially if you’re throwing back soju between swings. For the first time ever, I beat my husband and I’m giving full credit to the magic liquid. In fact, next time I play real golf I’m thinking hip-flask. As for noraebang - even the most reluctant warbler will be wrestling the microphone out of some unsuspecting wannabe’s hands after a glass of the clear liquid. For three days the German guest swore blind that he would not be singing karaoke; three soju shots later he was Beyonce complete with a few delightful little dance steps. I will be sad to leave my friends and soju behind, but hopefully this time next year I will be ambling along on the back of a horse with a piece of straw hanging out of the corner of my mouth with not a car or high-rise in sight. It’s wishful thinking I know. In the meantime I will be keeping an eye out for the fat lady.

Discover Why Itaewon Rocks! What are the new restaurants? What happy hours are tonight? Is there a quiz night tonight? Where can I get brunch? Brazilian? Italian? American? Moroccan? Pick your cuisine.

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Pick up your FREE copy today at the Itaewon Subway Station Tourism Information Office or from your hotel concierge. 68 | 10 Magazine April 2012