September 2010

Art • Theater • Concerts • Film • Community • Fitness • Dine & Drink • Nightlife • TRAVEL

Korea awaits! • september 2010 VOL. 2 NO. 12

외국인의 한국생활 노하우

Tips for Vegetarians Foreigner's Day

Football

Duty Free Shopping Jirisan Trail

Korea's Room Culture

Tons of fun events in our nationwide calendar!

Printed using 100% soy ink.

Shot by M at th e w C romp to n

22

The Vegetarian Way From how to say “vegetarian” in Korean to the dishes you should remember on your next dinner out, these guidelines can help you keep your sanity in a meat-loving land.

By e v e e l l e n b o g e n

08 Duty Free Shopping

If you don’t like taxes or lugging around your purchases, try these duty free stores.

14 Hyehyun Hong, Head Chef at Noxa She didn’t go to any fancy culinary institutes, but she sure makes a nice dish of gnocchi.

16 Korean Pine Mushrooms

Shot by Pe ter D e M a rco

This hard-to-find fungus has an unusual, subtle taste that makes it a favorite with chefs.

18 Jirisan Trail

Forget about going up. This trail takes you around the mountain.

20 The Seoul Ceili

Join the Irish community of Seoul for an afternoon of traditional dance.

34 Hotel and Resort News

Chuseok presents and fall packages make up this month’s hotel roundup.

Shot by Dy l a n go ld by

SEPTEMBER 2010 vol. 2 No. 12

26

A Room of Your Own Noraebangs, jjimjilbangs, DVD bangs—just some of the “bang” (rooms) where Koreans go to socialize, but there’s no reason why expats can’t have a great time there, too.

By S t e p h e n R e v e r e

41 Galaxy S Samsung’s latest smartphone gives the iPhone a run for its money.

42 International Food in Itaewon

63 Climbing Walls in Daegu With these fun facilities, you can stay on the wall rain or shine.

64 Dragon Dream

Test your chops at finding world cuisine in the everpopular expat haunt.

Dragons, caves, booze, and food. Need we say more?

53 Foreigner’s Day with FC Seoul

66 Hallyu Dream Festival

Beer, a hot dog, and a football match.

Ride the Korean Wave with this free superstar concert.

FROM THE EDITOR

Two Years and Counting

S

eptember 2010 marks the 24th issue of 10 Magazine. Yup, two whole years.

I can hardly believe it either. It seems like just yesterday I was sitting in an office with just my business partner, Kyoung-hee Lim, peering over our notebook computers and shooting questions to each other constantly. Now most of our communication seems to take place through email and Blackberry, and 10 has added three more full-time members to the team. It’s been a spectacular start, particularly when you consider that our first issue went out in October of 2008. Remember how the world economy was looking in October/November of 2008? We were just hoping for survival back then. I kept saying it was much harder on the big magazines, because since we were starting from zero, we had nowhere to go but up! There was certainly some truth to that, as every contract, no matter how small, had a great impact on our bottom line.

Since then, we have not only survived but prospered, and as I look back at those first issues, I think about all that I’ve learned and how far we’ve come. At the time, we outsourced design—a mistake in hindsight—but then in April of last year our full-time designer, Hugh Lee, came on the scene and our design has improved by leaps and bounds ever since. We also had no online presence, and now we have one of the most popular English websites on Korea. Our email–The Weekly 10—goes out to thousands every Thursday morning with the coolest 10 events in the country. Over 3,200 people “like” us on Facebook, but surely that number has grown even since this issue has gone to print. Our Reader’s 10 online survey gives us your opinion on everything from the best brunch to where you like to hang out in Korea (see this month’s column). We’ve discovered terrific ways to use technology to help reach our readership, and it’s helped us interact with our readers more and become a better magazine.

And with every advance and every new contract come more ideas and more ways to improve our service to you, our readers. Two years was just the beginning. Keep your eyes on 10, because there will be plenty more improvements and advances to come in upcoming months and years - and they’re all about improving your life in Korea. Korea Awaits!

S t e p h e n R e v e r e , M anag in g E ditor

A Shot of Korean by Stephen Revere 지지! [ji-ji] That’s dirty!

Kids have a way of picking up everything in arm’s reach, don’t they? As soon as they can clasp their fingers and curl their arms they’re shoving stuff in their mouths. Then as they get older, they may just want to reach for and start playing with anything around, and often it’s dirty as sin.

Here’s what Korean parents shout at their kids to let them know that it’s dirty and the kids shouldn’t be meddling with it. This word is almost never used with adults, but then again this is “the Korean lesson for people who don’t have time to learn Korean”—feel free to use it to elicit uproarious laughter from your Korean friends and coworkers. 지지! 만지지마. [ji-ji! man-ji-ji-ma] That’s dirty! Don’t touch it.

Check out Survival Korean and Survival Korean: Basic Grammar Skills for more Korean lessons from 10’s Managing Editor, Stephen Revere.

Subscribe today for over 30% off the cover price!

W29,000 for a year • W15,000 for 6 months subscribe@10magazine.asia, 02-3447-1610, www.10magazine.asia

4 |

10 Magazine September 2010

CEO

Sang-tae Kim sangtaekim@10magazine.asia

Executive Editor

Jai-yoon Kim jaiyoonkim@10magazine.asia Stephen Revere sr@10magazine.asia David Carruth dc@10magazine.asia

Managing Editor Assistant Editor Contributors

Michael Berry, Adam Boothe Rhys Brindle, Kyle Burton David Carruth, Tom Coyner Matthew Crompton Peter DeMarco Dylan (WelkinLight Photography) Eve Ellenbogen, Jean Han Scott Hemsey, Ciaran Hickey Dami Kang, Song Lee Mike Luedke, Stafford Lumsden Luke Martin, Paul Matthews Joe McPherson, Brian Miller Charles Montgomery Conor O’Reilly, Anna Orzel Chalica Pack, Megan Preece Hughie Sampson Stacey Siebritz, Grace Sun Barri Tsavaris, Bryce Weibley David Wills, Lisa Xing Charity Yoro

General Manager

Kyoung-hee Lim kl@10magazine.asia

Art Director

Hugh Lee hlee@10magazine.asia

Marketing Inquiries Calendar Events Contribute Questions/Comments Subscriptions

marketing@10magazine.asia calendar@10magazine.asia contribute@10magazine.asia comments@10magazine.asia subscribe@10magazine.asia

Print

Tara tps. Co., Ltd Life in Korea is all about working hard—and playing hard, which is what photographer Dylan (WelkinLight Photography) aimed to capture in this month’s cover shot. He joined cover model Nikelola Balogun at Jongno 2-ga for a photo shoot in the crazy glow of the neon lights. Nikelola’s fantastic fashion sense helped her bring off a dazzling norae-bang pose.

For more on noraebangs, and other kinds of “bang,” see our cover story on p. 26.

Please Recycle This Magazine 10 Magazine SEPTEMBER Vol. 2 No. 12 등록번호 서울 라 12065 (Registration: Seoul Ra 12065) ©10 Media Inc. Address 서울시 강남구 논현동 10-21 10-21 Nonhyeon-dong Gangnam-gu Seoul 135-010 Phone 02-3447-1610 www.10magazine.asia 10 Magazine is published monthly by 10 Media Inc. All Rights Reserved.

CONTRIBUTORS Peter DeMarco (p. 18) lived in a yurt with Mongolian nomads, was an extra in a movie in Barcelona starring Corey Feldman, ate Moroccan chicken in Morocco and Peking duck in Beijing, and lived on Jeju Island for a year in both 1979 and 2009. He currently calls Busan home where he follows his bliss as a photojournalist and English teacher. See more of his photos at flickr.com/ photos/the-nomad-within.

Eve Ellenboggen (p. 22) is from New York and has been in and out of Korea for the past three years. She spends her time teaching, traveling, writing, dancing, and badly abusing the Korean language in various bars around Hongdae. After Korea, she plans to hit the road with nothing but a backpack and a pen for several years of unfettered traveling and writing.

Stay tuned.

Dami Kang has given a great amount of her time and passion to 10 Magazine over the last year and a half and has helped us grow immensely. She has been a terrific coordinator for us in that time, but she has decided she will be taking a break from the daily grind before putting her talents to work elsewhere. She will be sorely missed. Thanks for all the help Dami!

Hughie Samson (p. 68) is a Canadian from Nova Scotia who lived in Winnipeg for five years before coming to Korea in March 2009. He contributes to Gwangju Blog, the Gwangju News, and now to 10 Magazine, and he can be heard every Friday evening discussing current Korean affairs on GFN 98.7 FM’s City of Light.

Lisa Xing (p. 14) is an English teacher by day, journalist and historian by degree, and creative writer by night—or any other time she can fit it into her schedule. This sometimes means scrawling on envelopes, receipts or other semi-flat surfaces on which ink doesn’t smudge. Skin can sometimes be a problem.

10 Magazine September 2010

LETTERS Seoul-centric?

I came across your magazine a few months ago (maybe longer) and immediately got a full subscription. Much to the skeptical looks of my friends who run helpful websites around my city, I continued to be impressed with the level of sophistication and professional quality of the articles. At times I have felt that the articles have been a little “Seoul-centric” but I realized that the option to submit my own articles is always there. That being said, 10 Magazine’s events calendar always has full coverage of the entire country. With so many articles on every aspect of life in Korea, it is something that I will continue to read and recommend to all of my friends and students. This magazine has opened my eyes to a lot of great places to eat, things to do and places to go, and has pushed me to hone my own talents to hopefully grace its pages one day. Thank you to all of the 10 Magazine staff for creating such a stylish magazine!

Jason Teale, Gwangju Our goal has always been to supply expats all over Korea with local information about what’s happening each month.

The fact is there aren’t enough expats in most areas of Korea to support a professionally-made magazine, but the expats who are in areas outside of Seoul are in even more need of local event information combined with information on how to experience Korea. We may end up being a little Seoul-centric at times, although we try to avoid it, but the fact is that it’s the vast numbers of expats living in Seoul that allow us to provide information about every area of the country–because many of them want to travel there, too! If you’d like more local articles and information

Send Us a Letter, and You Could Win W15,000 in Whole Bean Coffee from Caribou Coffee

for your area in our Calendar section, tell your local government they should promote themselves through 10.

Exploring Korea with 10 My partner and I are staying at the COEX InterContinental and we found 10 informative and useful. We read the “Multicultural Food District” by Matthew Crawford and took a ride to that location in Ansan. We found the underpass and took the lift and at the top saw the road sign on the lamppost, Damunhwa-gil, just as Matthew reported. Unfortunately it was a Thursday and Cafe Batavia Java and the other Muslim outlets were shut as Thursday is the eve of the Sabbath for Muslims!

We then took the lift up to the 4th floor to the Thai restaurant. We had fried rice with vegetables and clear soup. Unpretentious.

The outward train ride, before it got dark, showed us the vegetable plots and lifestyle of the working population of that part of Korea. Altogether it was an excellent way to spend an evening. Thank you for 10 and thank you COEX InterContinental Seoul for making 10 available in the guest rooms.

Bismillah Kader Internexia College, Malaysia

2. Email your letter to comments@10magazine.asia by September 15th.

3. Excerpts from 2-3 letters will run in the September magazine. If you're chosen you will be sent 227 grams of whole bean coffee (W15,000 value) from Caribou Coffee by early October.

6 |

10 Magazine September 2010

The Korean Law Blog thekoreanlawblog.com

Where do you go when you need legal help? For many a foreigner in Korea, the best place to turn is The Korean Law Blog. Lawyer Sean Hayes has been in Korea for over nine years and was the first foreigner to work for the Korean court system. He now writes for the Korea Times and is a frequent contributor to TBS e-FM. He has been running his blog since 2007 and the topics vary from how to collect on debts to “inept Korean attorneys” to the legality of abortion in Korea.

While most updates are reprints of his articles in the Korea Times, often the articles he posts serve up very practical answers to questions that are on the minds of his readers—which are usually people like you. And, yes, he does take questions. Postings can be a bit sporadic, fluctuating with Sean’s schedule, but recently 10 has been told that he’s got some new help in the office and readers can count on 3 - 4 posts a week starting this month. If you’d like to ensure that Sean covers your topic of choice, shoot him an article idea at SeanHayes@ IPGLegal.com.

Thank you Bismillah! And we would like to thank the COEX InterContental too— along with all of the other hotels that care enough about their guests to supply them with 10 Magazine. One true sign of a 1st class hotel is that they go out of their way to make sure that guests are supplied with the most current information on what’s happening locally. Our magazine is not free, and we’re impressed every time a hotel goes the extra mile to provide their guests with a complimentary copy of 10.

Korea by the Numbers

How to Win Free whole bean Coffee from Caribou Coffee

1. Type up a paragraph sharing your thoughts about 10 Magazine.

Tell us what you think of the September issue, and especially about the events you learned about from 10!

Blog of the Month

Percentage of GDP Korea spends on military expenditures

54

Ranking in the world of percentage of GDP spent on the military.

20

The number of months required for the obligatory Korean military service - for men only. Women are not required to serve at all.

4,000

The approximate number of women serving as commissioned and noncommissioned officers (approximately 2.3% of all officers)

#1 is Oman with 11.4% and #174 is Iceland at 0%. The US is #25 with 4.06%

Flag of the Ministry of National Defense, Republic of Korea

Source: The World Factbook www.cia.gov

THE READER'S 10

What’s your favorite place to hang out in Korea?

10

’s readers have spoken, and the answer is Hongdae!

With its prime location and great artistic influence (Hongik University is the #1 art school in Korea), the area is brimming with art galleries, unique cafes, tons of great international dining, and incredible nightlife. Famous for being the hottest place to catch up-and-coming bands performing live, as well as boasting a wide variety of dance clubs allowing you to get your groove on, the Hongdae club/music scene features everything from jazz to 80s and 90s pop to the grungiest grunge and hip hop. And recently the trendy area has seen another growth spurt, threatening to gradually consume every bit of 1st f loor real estate in the area stretching from Hongdae Stn. to Hapjeong Stn. and from Sangsu Stn. to Sanwoolim Theater. We could think of worse things to happen.

10. Samcheong-dong, Seoul 9. Garosu-gil, Seoul 8. Cheongdam-dong, Seoul 7. Sinchon, Seoul 6. Apgujeong, Seoul 5. Insadong, Seoul 4. Haeundae Beach, Busan Gangnam Station area, Seoul

2.

Itaewon-dong, Seoul

1.

Hongik University area (Hongdae), Seoul The main gate of Hongik University Image from Wikipedia, Uploaded by Meredith

3.

That’s a pretty impressive list, we have to say, and a great must-see list for anyone on their way to Korea. It should be noted that Busan was the only place outside of Seoul to hold a place in the top 10, with its respectable showing for Haeundae Beach.

Who doesn’t love Busan’s beautiful Haeundae Beach? (Although you may avoid it like the plague in peak season, when the people seem more numerous than the grains of sand.)

And now our question for the month of October. Many people who were talking about their favorite area in Korea also ended up mentioning the bar or pub they loved in that area, which raises the question, W h at is you r favor ite ba r , pu b or lou nge?

Visit 10magazine.asia/favorite-bar-open-thread to post your choice in the Comments section before September 5th, and then vote for your favorite from September 6th - 12th at 10magazine. asia/favorite-bar-poll.

10 Magazine September 2010

STYLE

Your Complete Guide

to Duty Free Shopping in Korea Words by Gr ace Su n

D

on’t have time for heavy duty shopping at the airport, but still want all your duty free products at their discounted tax-free price? Seoul is packed with duty free stores that house all the luxury boutiques, as well as stocking a large array of cosmetics, gifts and accessories.

All you have to do is bring your passport and plane ticket with you (or remember your flight number), buy what you want, and pick it up on the day of your departure at the airport gates. Further discounts abound with certain credit cards and VIP benefits. Read on for more details.

Lotte Duty Free Level 9-10 of Lotte Department Store in Myeondong, Seoul There are multiple locations for this chain, but the best and biggest by far is the Lotte Duty Free located on two massive floors in the main Lotte Department Store in Myeongdong, hosting a killer range of luxury retailers, cosmetics and accessories. This is the only place where you will find a Miu Miu store, as well as a nice range of boutique ladies shoes in La Collection, which houses brands like Marc by Marc Jacobs, Emilio Pucci, Givenchy, Kenzo, Donna Karan and Pedro Garcia. Other heavy hitters include Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Chanel, Dior, Fendi, Tiffany & Co, and Bottega Veneta. The mantra is that if you can find it in Lotte, don’t bother going anywhere else.

This is your one-stop shop for all the favorite brands and then some. Don’t forget that you also have the rest of Lotte Department Store, Avenuel, Lotte Young Plaza and Myeongdong shopping at your fingertips.

8 10 Magazine September 2010

VIP cards are available for Korean locals and foreigners. US $2,000 worth of purchases within two years gets you a Silver Card, providing 5-10% discount on most items, and US $10,000 in purchases over five years gets you a Gold Card and 5-15% discount on most items.

Making a purchase with a Visa card will get you a further 5-15% off items.

Directions: Euljiro 1-ga Stn. (line 2, Exit 7) kr.lottedfs.com 1688-3000

Lotte Duty Free Shilla Duty Free

Happy Chuseok!

Korean Thanksgiving Day

Korean traditional cookies for our audience September 21st - 23rd!

Shilla Duty Free Just down the hill from the Shilla Hotel is the Shilla Duty Free. You’ll find all the usual suspects and more, the Shilla being the next biggest duty free after Lotte.

There are 3 types of VIP cards available. The basic card offers 5% discount with no requirements. The Silver Card offers 5-10% and is for customers who have Asiana mileage cards, or who have totaled US $400 worth of purchases in two years. The simplest way is to just sign up online with no restrictions. The Gold Card, however, is only offered to travelers who have totaled US $3,000 in three years, and gives you 5-15% off.

If you use a Samsung card when purchasing items, you will receive a discount of W10,000 when you purchase over $200, and W20,000 when you purchase over $400.

Open Run 4pm, 8pm Chongdong Theater

R: W50,000, S: W40,000, A: W30,000

RE

T

CU

HE

Chuseok Special

Directions: about 200m from Dongguk Univ. Stn. (line 3, Exit 5). Seoul dfsshilla.com 1688-1110

30% OFF E

10 Magazine September 2010

T

CU

R HE

Expires September 30th, 2010 *Discount good up to four guests *No performance on Monday $IPOHEPOH 5IFBUFS r r XXX LPSFBNJTP DPN

STYLE Dongwha Duty Free

Dongwha Duty Free

This establishment, located on levels 1 and B1 of the Gwanghwamun Building downtown, is usually packed with Japanese and Chinese tourists who come in droves in their tour buses. It is a popular choice for these groups, but a bit smaller compared to Lotte and Shilla Duty Free. You won’t be disappointed though, with Louis Vuitton, Celine, Bottega Veneta, Dior, Gucci and all the rest. A plus is that the line to pick up purchases at the airport is substantially shorter for the Dongwha Duty Free – vital when you’re running late for a flight!

Be advised that Korean cosmetics purchased by foreigners at Dongwha cannot be picked up from the airport, but must be taken with you at the time of purchase and then shown to customs upon departure. The VIP system includes a Silver Card that offers 5-15% for all and a Gold Card that offers further discounts for foreigners with an address in Korea that spend over US $2,000 over an unlimited period of time. Those with a platinum credit card will also receive a 5-15% discount.

Directions: Level 1 of Gwanghwamun (Dongwha) Building outside exit 6 of Gwanghwamun Station (line 5). Seoul dutyfree24.com 02-399-3000

Walkerhill Duty Free Located in the Sheraton Walkerhill Hotel, this duty free may be a little out of the way for most Seoul tourists, but for those who are visiting the Walkerhill Casino and W Hotels, this would be the perfect shopping break in between blackjack and roulette games.

Although some big shot brands are missing here, style is most certainly not – with it brands like Manolo Blahnik, Chloe, and Tod’s all making an appearance.

A Silver VIP Card gives up to 10% discount, and all you need for this is your passport. For a Gold Card, purchases must be made up to US $10,000 over 5 years, and discounts are offered up to 15%.

Directions: Take the free hotel shuttle from Gangbyeon Stn. (line 2, ex. 1) or Gwangnaru Stn. (line 5, ex. 2) skdutyfree.com 02-450-6350

10 10 Magazine September 2010

Incheon Airport For those that run out of time and miss out on duty free shopping, do not fear. Incheon International Airport is one of the largest and busiest in the world, with shopping spots to rival Hong Kong International Airport and Narita in Tokyo.

In fact, many travelers choose to stop over at Incheon just so they can shop inside the airport! You can also use your VIP cards in the AK, Lotte and Shilla duty free stores here, although the product range is limited to cosmetics and gifts.

International retailers include the usuals – Chanel, Hermes, Burberry and Gucci to name a few. airport.kr/eng/enjoy

Claiming Tax Back in Cash Guess what? Even if you don’t shop in these duty free outlets, you can still save 7% on all your purchases and get your money back at the airport! Just take your receipts to the tax free lounge in all department stores, and you will be asked to fill in a form which you must then show to customs along with your products at the airport. You will then get the equivalent of 7% back on all your purchases in cash at the booth located near the departure gates at the airport. The staff at Incheon airport will give you cash back on the spot in either Korean won or US dollars, but Gimpo will make you wait up to 3 months for a deposit into your bank account. Unfortunately, this is only available for non-residents of Korea, which means those with an alien ID are not eligible. Doota Department Store in Dongdaemun also offers a similar benefit to foreigners and will return your cash back on the spot. Inquire at the information desk on level 1.

Other Duty Free Shops • Aquascutum Duty Free pgworld.co.kr 02-755-0105 • Busan Lotte Duty Free busanlottedfs.com • JDC Duty Free jdcdutyfree.com 064-740-9997 • Jeju Tourism Organization Duty Free jtodutyfree.com 064-780-7700

• •

Lotte World Duty Free kr.lottedfs.com 02-411-7565 Paradise Duty Free paradisemall.co.kr 051-749-1300 10 Magazine September 2010

Advertorial

Festive Recipes for Chuseok This month is Chuseok, the traditional harvest moon festival when Korean families get together to enjoy delicious traditional Korean food in their hometowns. Mrs. Moon Seong-Shil, a popular food blogger in Korea, shares some of her favorite beef recipes with us just in time for the holiday.

Steamed Ribs

Korean Beef Meatballs

What is a good family meal without a rich steamed dish? This recipe is best if made with Australian beef ribs and cooked in a pressure cooker, which will give you very tender ribs.

Although it requires a long cooking time, the finished product is a sure family favourite. Don’t forget to mix the sauce with rice when you eat it!

A favourite jeon (Korean pancake) of mine for Chuseok is the “beef meatball” pancake. Normally, traditional pajeon is served after the ancestor memorial ceremony, but I find that the beef meatball version goes down better with families.

These bite-sized pancakes are also perfect for lunchboxes, and kids love munching on the tender beef, mixed with a rich amount of vegetables.

(소갈비찜 Sogalbi Jjim)

(동그랑땡, Donggeurang Ttaeng)

Ingredients Serves 5- 6

• • • • • • • • • • • • Ingredients Serves 3- 4

• 1kg Australian beef ribs • 2 pieces white radish, 5cm each • 7 daechu (Korean dates) • 7 raw chestnuts • 20 eunhaeng (ginkgo nuts) • 1 red chili • 1 spicy green chili • 1 spring onion

• • • • • • • • •

½ pear or a small kiwi ½ minced onion 2 minced garlic cloves 1/3 minced ginger 12 tblsp soy sauce 3 tblsp mul yeot (starch syrup) 2 tblsp brown sugar 1 tblsp oyster sauce 5 tblsp matsul (Korean cooking wine),

Marinade: • 4 tblsp cheongju (clear rice wine) • 1/3 tblsp pepper • 2 tblsp tabasco sauce • ½ tblsp sesame oil Method

1. Leave ribs in cold water for 3-4 hours. Change water 2-3 times while waiting. Once finished, roughly chop the beef into bitesized pieces.

2. Prepare sauce while waiting. Mince pears (or kiwi) and onions with a blender. Mix together with all the ingredients for marinade in a bowl.

3. Marinate the chopped ribs with the sauce, and leave overnight in the fridge.

4. Cook marinated ribs in a pressure cooker or in a deep pot.

Cook for as long as necessary until the beef becomes soft.

Remove extra oil from the top with a spoon.

5. While the beef is cooking, chop the vegetables – radishes, chestnuts, dried daechu (Korean dates), and chilies.

6. After removing excess oil, place all ingredients together and continue cooking until ingredients become soft, and soup is reduced. Ready to serve!

12 | 10 Magazine September 2010

300g minced beef 1/2 onion 1/6 carrot 1/2 capsicum 1/3 spring onion 2 cups cheongju (clear rice wine) 1 tblsp minced garlic 1/3 tblsp spoon salt 1/4 tblsp ginger powder sesame oil flour 2 eggs (beaten)

Method

1. Marinate beef with cheongju (clear rice wine), then squeeze gently with kitchen towel. Stand for a few minutes.

2. Shred onions, carrots, capsicum, and spring onions.

3. Add minced garlic, salt, pepper, ginger powder, and sesame oil together with the marinated beef and shredded vegetables. Mix with hands and make into small bun shapes.

4. Roll buns in a generous amount of flour, and brush off extra flour to prevent chunks 5. Marinate with beaten eggs.

6. Heat up a pan with oil, and fry for around 1 min on medium heat until the bottom side turns yellow. Flip and repeat 3~4 times until the whole bun is fully cooked. Cut in half to check if meat has turned brown.

7. Serve with soy sauce for dipping, and enjoy!

About Mrs. Moon

Mrs. Moon Seong-Shil is a mother of 6-year-old twins and a well-known figure in the Korean blogosphere. A fulltime housewife, she has made a career out of blogging, partnering with media and the food industry, and is the author of four books. Her cooking blog (blog.naver.com/shriya) is one of the most read in Korea, with over 60,000 visitors a day.

Itaewon is hoppin’!!! ...and Kobeak is there.

Like Lan Kwai Fung in Hong Kong, Itaewon is becoming the place to eat in Seoul.

From the Canadian Rockies to New York and then on to Ireland and Austria, authentic foods prepared by authentic hands. The concern for quality is never ending in these fine establishments and is why they all choose Kobeak Foods as their meat supplier. We directly import the finest meats from around the world.

Kobeak Foods® is an Australian joint venture company specializing in supply to restaurants concerned with safe, high quality meat products from around the world. We carry all varieties of meats–beef, pork, poultry, lamb, venison, sausages, hamburgers and much more. Look for the "Kobeak Foods" mark at your favorite restaurant to ensure you are getting the best and safest quality products available.

3F, 59-11, Kuui-dong, Kwangjin-ku, Seoul, Korea | Tel; 02-454-3435 | Fax; 02-458-1302

IN THE KITCHEN

W

hen Hyehyun Hong flew to Italy more than 20 years ago, it wasn’t to study the cuisine. 19 years old when she arrived, she spent six years at fashion school studying specialized makeup. But in a country like Italy, it’s hard to ignore the cooking. Hong’s first foray into Italian cuisine was when she lived with an elderly woman in Perugia. Each Friday, her sons would visit home. Midweek, she gave Hong a huge grocery list. For someone who only knew the words “si” and “no,” she was forced to learn food names quickly, and all in Italian.

“School was only during the daytime, but after 3 pm, it was so boring!” Hong remembers. So, she studied fashion by day and began taking cooking courses by night. This didn’t inspire her to pursue it as a full-time job—at first. After returning to Korea, she spent the next seven years immersed in her specialty, from

makeup for a TV drama to fashion marketing. But after all those years, she wanted a change.

And that’s exactly what she got. In 2007, the owner of her favorite café told her he wanted to sell his business. She said that the second he told her, she jumped at the chance, snapping her fingers to emphasize her impromptu decision. A week later, Hong quit her job in marketing and opened Benvenuti, “Welcome” in Italian. At the time, Italian food wasn’t popular with Koreans so she wanted to do just that—welcome them to Italian cuisine.

This might just be why this chef is making Noxa Lounge, where she currently works, a household name in Seoul Italian cuisine.

“My focus is a little bit weird. Italian food is kind of a homey and slow food,” she says. Her recipes and techniques didn’t materialize from school, but rather from real life: what she ate and experienced while living in Italy. But this unconventional chef does admit that part of her “training” took place while she worked at a hotel kitchen in Seoul during her vacations from the café. “I mainly prepared cold dishes, but I could watch how they cut the filets. It was kind of like spying,” she says, smiling mischievously.

From these experiences, Hong developed her vision for cooking. One of her sayings is that the most important part of a restaurant’s interior is the people. Another is that you have to treat every order with respect. “Every single dish of food is like a son. So how can you judge which is the best?” And it seems people are responding to each dish. Noxa is abuzz with customers, and the head chef says she plans to stick around the kitchen. “To live, you have to eat. Eating is like air,” she says with the same mischievous smile.

Hyehyun Hong, Head Chef Noxa Lounge

Words and shots by Lisa X i ng

Chef Hong’s Ricotta-Stuffed Potato Gnocchi with Cream Sauce Ingredients (6-8 servings) • 5 russet potatoes (2 1/2 - 3lb) • 2 eggs

• 1 teaspoon salt

• olive oil

• pepper to taste

• 1 1/4 cup plain flour • 1/2 cup freshly grated parmesan cheese • 100g ricotta for stuffing

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Method 1. Steam the potatoes. While still hot, peel the skins and mash.

2. After letting the potatoes cool completely, slowly add the other ingredients and mix them evenly.

3. Knead the dough until it’s no longer sticky.

4. When it becomes springy, move the dough to a bowl, add shrink wrap, and let sit for 2 hours in the fridge.

5. Form the dough into little balls and stuff in ricotta cheese.

6. Boil the gnocchi in salt water until they float to the top.

7. Fry fresh sage with butter and then add a little cream and white wine for the sauce.

8. Mix the sauce with the boiled gnocchi.

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A TASTE OF KOREA

S ongi B eoseo t Korean Pine Mushroom The caviar of Korea, this forest mushroom will make your jaw drop with its great taste—and high price.

Words by Ci a r a n H ick ey, Executive chef of the w seoul walkerhill

K

orea has been blessed with a great amount of wonderful homegrown ingredients, but none have the mystique and romance of the songi beoseot, or pine mushroom. This rare and elusive fungus is found only in a few select regions and at a certain time of the year. Like many of the world’s great delicacies it cannot be cultivated, making it a specialty. For epicures and gastronomes, its high price tag and fine taste put it in the top tier of “things I must eat before I die” category along with Italian white truffles and Beluga caviar.

The Korean pine mushroom industry is mostly concentrated in the county of Yangyang in Gangwon Province. The mushrooms can be found in the shade of certain pine trees high up on the slopes of the local mountains. Mushrooms aside, this is a beautiful part of Korea, well worth the 3-hour drive from Seoul.

T he h a r ve s t of t h i s mu sh r o om i s decreasing yearly, causing the price to rise as access to the picking areas decline.

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Colockwise: Songi mushroom Jeongol; fried Songi; mushroom salad; steamed songi rice; Fried songi, beef and vegetables

10 Magazine September 2010

As a result, the areas are confined to professional pickers only, making it nearly impossible for non-professional pickers to harvest these mushrooms in season.

For those who want to take advantage of a rare opportunity, every autumn Yangyang holds the Pine Mushroom Festival, where visitors can try their hand at picking this special mushroom. This year’s festival will take place from the 24th to the 28th of September.

Apart from its rarity, the pine mushroom is prized for its delicate, woodsy taste. Its flavor is unlike any other mushroom, making it a popular choice among chefs. Most

major restaurants and hotels in Seoul will feature pine mushrooms on their menus when they are in season. Most of the top grade mushrooms are exported, where they command a high price, which in turn drives up the price at home, so be ready to pay for the privilege.

On my trip to Yangyang I was lucky enough to try a lot of different dishes featuring songi. Since Gangwon Province is well known for its fresh water salmon with its delicious, distinctive red flesh, the first dish I tried was salmon cooked with local potatoes and pine mushrooms. It’s not always easy to find this fish in Seoul, so it was a real treat.

I also had the pleasure of trying a bulgogi dish made with pine mushrooms. It was a pleasant change from the usual versions I had tried before. Along with this dish I had steamed rice cooked in a clay pot with pine mushrooms. The mushrooms gave the rice a fantastic flavor as it cooked.

It was expensive for a rice dish, but the taste was right up there with truffle risotto.

This amazing mushroom is truly one of Korea’s treats. When you see it on sale in autumn, nestling on a bed of pine needles, do yourself a favor and try it. Consider it one more thing crossed off your culinary bucket list before you hit the caviar!

September 24th – 28th

Pine Mushroom Festival Participants can enjoy the fresh air of pine forests and natural landscapes while partaking in tastings, educational seminars and guided tours. The festival also features a home stay program at pine mushroom farms where people can experience living in Korea’s countryside, as well as a half marathon where participants run along the Namdaecheon stream, surrounded by thick woods. For drama lovers, Taksangsadoegi, one of Yangyang’s traditional folk plays, is featured during the festival. Restaurants in the region offer special menus with dishes in which songi stars as the key ingredient.

The festival is also popular in Japan, with many visitors making the pilgrimage to try this “diamond of the forest,” known as Matsutake in Japanese cooking. The festival is held in Yangyang-gun on the coast in Gangwon Province. festival.yangyang.go.kr 033-670-2724

Korean Destinations

Rural Korea on the Jirisan Trail Pack your bag, lace up your boots and get ready for a slow-life adventure like none other.

W o rds and s h o t s b y P e t e r D e M arc o

“D

ynamic Korea” does not strike most people as a very laidback country. From eating to driving, the “ppalli ppalli” or “hurry up” mentality permeates almost every aspect of the culture today.

Fortunately, though, there are still some places left in this country of speed where you can kick back and soak in the slow life. Look no further than the Jirisan Trail to take you on a journey back in time to Korea’s simple agrarian past.

Not to be confused with the trails that go up to the peak of Jirisan, Jirisan Gil (지리산길) is a 300 km trail that encircles Jirisan National Park.

The trail also connects a web of 16 towns and 100 villages around the outskirts of the park.

Currently, only five sections of the trail (about 70 km) are open. However, an additional 80 km of trail is projected to open by the end of 2010.

A Yellow Brick Road of Sorts

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Walking along the trail feels uncannily like being in the Wizard of Oz. Bright orange balls of fruit hang from persimmon trees. Scarecrows stand guard in open fields of spicy red and green gochu (peppers). There are even a few Korean grandmothers selling noodles along the trail who, on a dark night, can surely be mistaken for witches.

The highest peak along the trail is about 700 meters but most of the trail snakes over rolling hills, along terraced rice paddies, bamboo stalks, rivers, fields, farms, forests, beekeepers tending their hives, and quaint villages. The Jirisan National park is so rich in biodiversity that it contains 30% of the 1500 species of plants known to Korea and 100 species of animals. Buddhism also f lourished in the peaks and valleys of Jirisan. Today there are around 400 temples in the park registered as Korean cultural treasures.

Red and black arrows clearly mark the way along the Jirisan Gil so you don’t have to worry much about getting lost. The terrain changes from single-track dirt trails to paved or dirt roads near farms and villages. Shops and food stands are few, so be sure to bring some snacks along with you.

From top left: A village resident, a trail sign directs hikers along the Jirisan Gil, fall foliage along the Jirisan Trail, persimmons in the fall, the raw beauty of the Jirisan Gil. Next page: Gochu (peppers) ripen in the mountain air

Suggested 1-2 Day Itinerary

Of the sections of the Jirisan Trail that I’ve hiked, the route from In-wol to Geum-ge offered the most to see and the best home stay options. If you are pressed for time, you can complete the 19.3km in one day if you make an early start and are in great shape.

However, a more leisurely option is to spend the night in Changwon (roughly 5k before Geum-ge), a small hillside farming village. If you have more time and would like to hike the full 70 km from Ju-cheon to Su-cheol, you’ll need about 4 days.

Where to Stay

Probably the best thing about the Jirisan Trail is that the local tourism board has set up a loose network of home stays along the trail. Visit one of the information centers or better yet, call ahead to reserve a place in a local home. A village home stay for one night will cost about W30,000 for 2-3 people. Since most of the small farming villages where the home stays are located don’t have any restaurants or markets, you’ll probably want your host to cook for you. This only costs W5,000 - W6,000 per meal per person.

Another option is to spend the night in one of the many pensions along the trail. You should definitely reserve your pension ahead of time, especially if you are staying over the weekend.

You can find information about pensions on the English website below or call the information number.

Home Sweet Home Stay

On my last hike along the trail we slept in an idyllic mountainside village. The 30 or so houses were shrouded in a thin blanket of smoke, and you could smell the burning wood from the fireplaces. The sign with the name of the village on it, Changwon (창 원), could have easily read “Get Away From it All.” There wasn’t a store in sight. No ubiquitous 7/11, phone shop, or neon sign to spoil the view.

When we got to the village, we called the local representative of the home stay network. She met us and brought us to the home we would spend the night in. Surprisingly enough, our host family had a small barn with two cows in it right next to their house. Our host family couldn’t say more than “Hello” in English but it didn’t matter. We smiled, laughed, and talked in broken Korean over a meal of grilled duck, some of the freshest vegetables I’ve tasted, and glasses of beer. At night, it was refreshing to just walk around the empty streets under the stars and breathe in the fresh crisp evening air. “Now this is the simple life at its best,” I thought.

There and Back Again

Go to the Dong Seoul Bus Terminal and take the bus for Namwon, Inwol. Look for the Jirisan Trail info center near the Inwol bus station. From other points in Korea, you may need to go to Hamyang first and transfer to the Inwol bus. Alternatively, take an express bus to Jinju or Gwangju and get on a local bus to Inwol from there. Another choice is to take a train to Namwon station. From there, get a city bus or taxi to Namwon Bus Terminal and board the bus to Inwol.

Once you hike to the end of a section of the trail, there are local buses that will take you back to one of the main bus terminals.

Valid date September 30th, 2010

More Information (in Korean)

Website: trail.or.kr Phone: 063-635-0850 10 Magazine September 2010

FEATURE

Irish Ceili Is Your Chance to Dance You don’t have to be Irish to enjoy the dancing at this month’s Ceílí in downtown Seoul.

W o rds BY C o n o r O ’ R e i lly and s h o t s b y T o m C o y n e r

O

n September 19th, the Irish community will take to the streets for the second time this year with the return of the Seoul Ceílí (pronounced “KAY-lee”) to Insadong. This once annual dance returns after a hiatus of several years to show another side to the diversity of Irish culture available in Seoul. Céilithe (the plural form) have been popular events on the social calendars

of Irish communities across the globe, and the Irish Association of Korea will return Seoul’s name to the list of cities that host similar events.

This will be the third céilí hosted by the Irish Association of Korea but the first since 2005. The céilí is an event that all Irish people are familiar with, and many

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still take place all over Ireland. They aren’t tied to any particular time of year or part of the country, instead remaining informal but lively and social occasions. Seoul’s event will follow the same lines.

A céilí is a traditional dance pattern in which people form into groups usually of two or four.

These small groups then dance together and with the group that has formed opposite them. After each stage, they move on to dance with the following group. It sounds complicated, and there is the potential for some disorder. However, if you pay attention to the steps, you’ll soon get the hang of it and it won’t take long for everything to fall into place.

Also, being as the céilí is far from a formal occasion, keeping to the exact steps isn’t all that important anyway. What is most important is getting up and trying your best. All the dances are certainly lively affairs with plenty of spinning and dancing in and out with your partner or the person standing opposite to you, guaranteeing lots of laughs and a unique experience not to be matched elsewhere in Korea.

If you’re worried about getting lost in the mass of swinging bodies, there will be volunteers on hand to guide you in the right direction. As it is an Irish event it wouldn’t be complete without the mandatory cups of tea, of which there will be plenty, as well as other refreshments to keep you lively in case you try to use the old excuse of having danced too much so as to avoid further revelry.

If dancing just isn’t your thing, there will be plenty of space to sit back and enjoy the live music provided by local Korean and Irish musicians, all residents of Korea, who will be on hand to dish out an afternoon’s worth of authentic and lively Irish traditional music.

The Seoul Céilí will return to its old home right in the heart of Insadong in the Daesung Group’s car park, which is about half way down Insadong-gil regardless of which end you approach it from. It is an excellent location with plenty of space for dancing or to sit back and enjoy the festivities right in the middle of Seoul’s cultural center. The Seoul Céilí will start at 2 pm and carry on until 6 pm on Sunday, September 19th and is organised by the Irish Association of Korea with help from Seoul City and the Daesung Group. This céilí, like all céilithe, is free to all who wish to attend.

For more information about the Irish Association of Korea, please visit iak.co.kr.

G e ttin g th e re Most residents of Korea will know how to get to Insadong, but in case you’re a newbie, start out by Anguk Stn. on line 3. Walk straight out of ex. 6 and take your first left to reach this popular tourist street.

SPECIAL FEATURE Deodeok root with seasonal greens at Baru by Matthew Crompton

The Vegetarian Way Korea can daunt vegetarian newbies, but with practice, patience, and a dash of courage, you can be on your way to dodging the meat without missing out on the cuisine.

Words by E v e E l l e n b o g e n

“C

hae-sik-ju-ui-ja.” It’s not that hard to translate “veg- that all you vegetarians out there have experienced at least one of etarian” from English to Korean, yet it seems that these things since coming to Korea. While it can be challenging there is so much room for error in a country that to be a vegetarian here, it’s a much more navigable road than one might think. just loves its meat.

Have you ever bitten into something omelet-esque and found My key to dining out in Korea is to throw all assumptions out yourself gagging on a piece of Spam? Have the window. Kamjatang (potato soup), kimchi you ever specifically ordered a cheese pizza jjigae (kimchi stew), sundubu jjigae (tofu stew), but found it covered in meat? (Or, for that kimbap—all of these dishes sound vegetarYou might want to avoid the matter, been denied a cheese-only pizza ian, but all of them usually come with meat or places that serve pig because it wouldn’t be “delicious” without fish. Kamjatang has pork spine. Kimchi jjigae intestines and dog soup, the meat?) Have you ever tried to go out for is made with pork, and kimchi itself is pickled dinner with friends of a different eating style, with fish. Sundubu jiggae contains either fish while you’re at it. I doubt only to end up picking ham broth or shellfish, and kimbap is made with that any amount of out of your 7-Eleven kimbap mystery meat. Even the Vietnamese pho that language mastery will help wh ile t hey chow dow n on I ordered for dinner a while back (which my you there. their galbi? Maybe I’ve just waitress swore came without meat) had bits of had bad luck, but chances are minced chicken sprinkled on it. (“Oh? So you

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don’t eat meat or chicken?”) Hence, my sacred rule: Always ask about the ingredients.

Here are a few helpful words and phrases you will need to know: chae-shik-ju-ui-ja (채식주의자) go-gi (고기) so-go-gi (소고기) dalk (닭) haem (햄) dwae-ji go-gi (돼지고기) be-i-keon (베이컨) hae-mul (해물) saeng-seon (생선) jo-gae (조개) cham-chi (참치) sae-u (새우) du-bu (두부) ya-chae (야채) gye-ran (계란) u-yu (우유) du-yu (두유) yuk-su (육수) mas-sal (맛살)

vegetarian meat beef chicken um… ham pork bacon seafood cooked fish shellfish tuna shrimp tofu vegetables egg milk soymilk meat broth crab meat .

•

mog-eo-yo ( 먹어요) —I eat ex. Ya-chae mog-eo-yo. – I eat eggs

•

an mog-eo-yo ( 안 먹어요) —I don’t eat ex. Go-gi an mog-eo-yo. - I don’t eat meat.

•

iss-eo-yo? ( 있어요?) —do you have ex. Du-bu iss-eo-yo? – Do you have tofu?

•

ppae-ju-se-yo ( 빼주세요) —No , please. ex. Haem ppae-ju-se-yo. – No ham, please.

. ?

Let’s see how this works in practice. I was recently at my favorite café in Hongdae in Seoul and decided to try their new, seasonal pasta dish, which happens to come with squid.

Me: Haemul deureo isseoyo (해물 들어 있어요)?

– Is there seafood in this?

Sweetest waitress in Hongdae: Ne (네). – Yes. Me: Ar-ass-eo-yo (알았어요) – Okay.

I-geot ju-se-yo (이것 주세요) – I’ll have this please.

Hae-mul-eun ppae-juseyo (해물은 빼주세요). – – Please leave out the seafood.

Sweetest Waitress In Hongdae: Ne (네). Okay.

And there you have it. It was delicious.

So by now you are a pro with the veggie vocabulary and you can eat at almost any non-galbi restaurant in this country. In fact, you might also want to avoid those places that serve pig intestines and dog soup, while you’re at it. I doubt that any amount of language mastery will help you there. But what about restaurants that specialize in vegetarian or vegan food? Believe it or not, there are some authentic vegetarian havens in Korea. Here’s a small smattering: The Loving Hut

With over 37 restaurants in Korea (and hundreds scattered over ten countries around the world), The Loving Hut offers savory 10 Magazine September 2010

SPECIAL FEATURE 3

1 2

4 5

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vegan food at affordable prices. My local Hut serves mandu dumplings, jjigaes, noodles, and even has “burgers,” among other dishes. In addition, most locations also offer vegan items for sale, such as cookies, birthday cakes, frozen dumplings and veggie burgers, among many others. Check it out: lovinghut.kr (English translation on the upper right-hand side).

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Cheong-guk-jang Restaurants

Upon walking into a cheong-guk-jang (청국장) restaurant, it’s easy to mistake the smell of the food for the odor of rotten socks, but don’t let that fool you! This tasty dish smells kind of funky at first, but the goodness of those fermented beans mixed with rice and vegetables is enough to make your mouth water every time you remove your sweaty gym shoes. Yes, it’s that good. The best way to find one of these gems is by asking a local.

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Juk

Juk (죽) warms you right down to the soul and is used to cure illnesses the way we Westerners use chicken soup or, in my family, matzah

10 Magazine September 2010

1. Soybean Cutlet 2. Tossed Salad 3. Mushroom Noodle Soup 1-3 images provided by the Loving Hut (lovinghut.kr) 4. Dishes at Baru, Jujeonburi - fruit and vegetable chips (center), soup made with soy beans (bottom center) 5. Baru 6. Rice wrapped in wild leaves 4-6. Shots by Matthew Crompton 7. Buddhist monk food at Sanchon (sanchon.com/english) 8.

Bibimbap 7-8 Shots by Chalica Pack

ball soup. Best described as rice porridge, juk comes in dozens of varieties with a plethora of possible ingredients. Some of my favorites are soft tofu and broccoli, sweet potato, and wild mushroom. The Bon Juk (본죽) franchise is easy to find, but if you’re not in the mood for restaurant dining, individual, ready-made portions can be found in most supermarkets. bonjuk.co.kr Buddhist Temples

Remember that scene in the original Willy Wonky and the Chocolate Factory when Gene Wilder sings about a world of pure imagination and then opens the door to chocolate heaven? That’s what it was like for me the first time I entered the dining room of a Buddhist temple in Korea. The tastiest, most wholesome, homegrown, well-prepared and (gasp) vegan food I had ever eaten. Even the kimchi is vegan! For fine temple dining, a good place to start is Baru, located across from Jogyesa in downtown Seoul. Fantastic taste meets exquisite presentation at this gourmet temple food restaurant. baru.or.kr

Dishes Worthy of Honorable Mention Bi-bim-bap (비빔밥): Better ask them to hold the beef. Note that Jeonju bibimbap, a specialty that is different from normal bibimbap, is made with rice soaked in meat broth (yuksu 육 수), so be sure to ask!

Ya-chae-rice (야채라이스): If you can keep the ham out, this vegetable and rice dish is a good staple for a late-night session at the kimbap shop. Similar to this is omurice (오무라이스), which is like yachaerice, but with an omelet on top. Again, be sure to ask for it without meat.

Kal-guk-su (칼국수): This hearty noodle soup is a good find, as long as you overlook the shellfish-based broth. Some restaurants will make this completely meat free. So, once again, just ask.

W

ell, now you know all that I know, and maybe more.

You should be ready to hit these meat-loving streets with the kind of ravenous fervor known only to vegetarians living in Korea. At times, you may come eye-to-eye, or even tongue-to-flesh, with a bit of dead animal. In my early days on the peninsula, I greeted those moments with the most adolescent behavior I could muster. (I once slammed the door to my hagwon bathroom before attempting to vomit loudly after eating a serving of supposedly vegetarian bibimbap that actually contained beef. I lost a lot of pride that day.) And yet, I still love Korean food and Korean restaurants. They’re part of my experience, good or bad, and I’m planning on saving the worst stories for my memoirs. So no matter your own experiences, remember to be bold, be strong, and be dedicated in your vegetarian pursuit.

The world needs you to keep on saving those animals, one chaesik-ju-ui-ja at a time.

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Have a Blast in a Bang!

Words by Stephen Revere, shots by Dylan Goldby and Scott Hemsey

Y

A look into Korea’s “bang” (room) culture and the wide variety of entertainment that it offers

ou may have noticed already, but Koreans aren’t big on talking to people they don’t know. Elevator interaction is rarely smiles and friendly “Hi!”s, but typically a solemn averting of one’s gaze to avoid eye contact. Bars and restaurants arrange seating for pairs or small groups to enjoy each other and seldom if ever does mingling come into play. Western influence only recently has brought in the concept of mixers, as signified by the new phrase which has worked it’s way into the language: 스탠딩 파티 - “standing party” - as in a party where people don’t just sit in small groups of friends, but stand, walk around and mingle. Nice restaurants always offer small, private dining rooms and there can be a 1-hour wait at the local Outback while the bar is full of empty seats. Go figure.

This may seem unfriendly to those who are not well-versed in Korean ways, but alternatively there is an automatic camaraderie that comes with a shared experience with another person. Upon two

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Koreans meeting for the first time they will search out that commonality like they’re looking for the Shin Raymeon in a an American grocery store.

“Where are you from?” Same home town? “Buddies!”

“How old are you?” Same age? “Friends!”

“What school did you go to?” Same Alma mater? “Let’s do some business together.”

There are no fraternities or sororities here because the classmates in your major are the equivalent of your brothers and sisters - right down to calling each other brothers and sisters! The point is that small rooms, or “bang” (방, with the “a” pronounced like the doctor tells you to say “Ahh”), are another way in which small groups of Korean like to get together and have fun. While some of these “bangs,” such as the PC-bang or the Jjimjil-bang, may be communal areas rather than actual separate rooms, you will find that the interaction is still limited to small groups of friends and family. Nonetheless, it’s hard to find a better way to

solidify friendships with Koreans (or Westerns for that matter) than a good few hours spent in any one of the following “bang”. It’s another way to get that ‘shared experience’ but in this case, it’s one that you actually get to share.

Norae-bang (노래방) First appearance: circa 1991 Cost: W9,000 - W17,000 per hour The original “bang,” the Norae-bang takes full advantage of the Koreans’ great tradition of peer pressuring people into singing front of each other.

From an expat’s point of view Koreans may seem to have have astoundingly melodic voices, which probably stems from the fact that they are given great positive encouragement to start singing at a young age - kind of like dancing babies in Brazil (Youtube that one if you haven’t seen it already.) Fear not, as willingness to get involved is prized over skill, and liberal doses of alcohol and reverb are sure to help you carry it off.

Nowadays there are the super, upscale Norae-bangs for you to enjoy, the most famous of which is Su Norae-bang.

Originally they started out in Hongdae (see our Reader’s 10 on page 7) but now they’re a chain with nationwide locations, which you can find at skysu. com - if you can speak Korean.

Norae-bang by Scott Hemsey

“A Noraebang is always a good end to the night, or let’s say the beginning! You start off agreeing to stay for just one hour no more, no less - then 3 hours later and your mates sneak back into the room giggling, ‘Oops I went and got another hour!’ And so it begins.”

Daniela De Tena, 28, Uijeongbu

DVD-bang (디비디방) First apperance: circa 1995 (in the form of “Video-bang” of course) Cost: W10,000 - W15,000 per movie You can’t go wrong with dinner and a movie. But what if that movie you wanted to see isn’t in theaters anymore, or you haven’t got tickets and the theater’s sold out? For less than the cost of tickets for two to the theater, you can get your own little room with a nice big screen so you can enjoy the movie without any of the disadvantages of the theater. And they also provide a little privacy so you and your date can snuggle a little if you’d like - but don’t get too close. Regulations require that there be windows on the doors that allow people to see into the room, and you wouldn’t want to put on a show for the staff.

DVD-bang can vary greatly in quality, so it may be a good idea to ask to see the room you’re going to be getting before you make your final decision. They also usually sell snacks and drinks to enjoy with your movie, although no Rasinets or Jordan Almonds.

10 Magazine September 2010

PC-bang (피시방)

Jjimjil-bang (찜질방)

First appearance: circa 2000 Cost: W1,000 - W1,500 per hour There was a time pre-2000 when, like the rest of the world, these places were called “Internet Cafes.” Their connections were slow and their locations were few and far between. The main people who frequented them were expats seeking to exchange emails with friends and family back home. Then came Starcraft. The borderline insanity for this game that followed was a boon to these “Internet Cafes” and left foreigners dumbfounded at 2-hour waits for a computer (yes, myself included). But that didn’t last long.

Soon “PC Bang” were on every corner charging a piddly W1,000 an hour and both expats and Koreans rejoiced at both the ubiquity of locations and high-speed Internet which seemingly appeared overnight. It’s no exaggeration to say that Starcraft and PC-bang played a key role in Korea’s meteoric rise to the fastest Internet speeds in the world, a title which it still holds today.

First appearance: circa 2000 (via Wikipedia, so take that for what it’s worth) Cost: W6,000 - W10,000 per person First you enter the bath area, and there will be plenty of them.

Varying temperatures and herbal concoctions give you a plethora of choices, but be careful - the brutal temperatures Koreans endure could singe some of that body hair that Koreans may lack. Steam rooms, saunas and cold pools add to the options.

Then you dry off, put on your pre-supplied shorts and T-shirt and head to the communal area where you can experience dry saunas at varying degrees of heat, a salt room, an oxygen room, a charcoal room, a hwangto (yellow earth) room, and just about whatever other clever room they could think up. Larger jjimjilbang will also have restaurants, often serving alcohol. Budget travelers should also be aware that the entrance fee is usually for up to a 24-hour period, making jjimjil-bang perhaps the cheapest accommodation option available - and a lot more fun than a cot at a youth hostel!

“Ah, the PC-bang, the traditional retreat of the harried husband and game-playing child. Relax in the cool dark, drink little cups of super-sweet coffee, and smoke ‘em if you got ‘em! At first the PC-bang might seem to break the general rule that Koreans like to do things in groups of friends, but look more closely and you’ll see that most Koreans are either playing Massive Multiplayer Online Role-Playing Games (MMORPGs) or on social media sites like Cyworld.”

Charles Montgomery, 50, Seoul

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“My first experience at a jjimjil-bang was at Hur Shim Chung in Busan, supposedly the largest of its kind in Asia.

I guess I thought if I was going to get naked with Koreans, I might as well start with as many as possible. Walking in, I was a little shy, but there was so much going on my modesty was forgotten in an instant. With so many pools to explore, of multiple temperatures and infusions, I had plenty to be getting

Previous Page: • PC-bang by Dylan Goldby This page from top: • Bathtub at Termeden; Image provided by Icheon Termeden Hot Spring Resort • Hwangto-bang in Jjimjil-bang • Multi-bang

by Stephen Revere

on with. I’m now totally hooked on Korea’s jjimjilbangs - from the hot soaks in outdoor, rose-tinted pools, to the vigorous scrubs by ajummas in lacy knickers. I never knew skin could be so smooth!”

Hannah Stuart-Leach

27, Seoul

Multi-bang (멀티방) First appearance: circa 2009 Cost per hour: W8,000 - W17,000 The original concept is that here you can do whatever electronic wizardry allows - play Nintendo Wii or PlayStation, use the PC to check your email or play Starcraft, watch a vast selection of movies - kind of the “killer app” of bangs. There’s a comprehensive system that allows easy switching amongst the many entertainment options, easily allowing you to choose from a huge selection of games, songs and movies.

Recently, however, the press on Multi-bang has been that they’ve gotten a little too comfortable, giving young adolescents a little too much privacy. But then again this is nothing new, as DVD-bang and Norae-bang have been accused of this for years.

Some owners of “multi-bang” are obviously trying to avoid this reputation by banning liquor, not allowing obviously drunk people to enter, and not allowing minors during evening hours. Others are targeting it, with locks on the door and renting rooms overnight - perhaps a nice option of you’re a traveler looking for some inexpensive lodging. As a rule, if you walk in the entrance and it’s brightly lit with a friendly, attentive staff, you can be confident that you’ve found the first category.

Charles Montgomery contributed to this article.

Proudly supplied by Kobeak Foods©

Edited by Dav i d Ca rru t h and K you ngh ee Li m

Gastronomic News

Ribeye Steak Added to Menu at Between Itaewon’s newest hot spot, the Italian restaurant and lounge Between, opened this past May 22nd and remains the place to be and to be seen. The latest addition to its already enticing menu is the Ribeye Steak (W38,000). Made of top-quality Korean beef and complemented with Radicchio Strudel, this superb steak is marinated in herb oil until tender and offers a taste you can’t find anywhere else. 02-795-6164

Eric Kayser Imports Traditional French Bread Anyone who has wished they could find a real baguette at their local Paris Baguette is in for a treat. This past July 29th, the first Eric Kayser bakery opened at the 63 Building in Yeouido, Seoul. Eric Kayser, a fourth-generation baker from Paris, was schooled in the skills and secrets of authentic French baking from a young age. Later, while employed as a professor at the national baking school, he passed down baking traditions to his students while combining originality and quality in his own research into better bread. He has since created a worldwide bakery chain with shops in countries such as the Arab Emirates, Greece, Russia, Morocco, Taiwan, and Japan. His bread has been recognized for its quality by top-ranking hotels and Michelin star restaurants. www.erickayser.co.kr 02-789-5987

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10 Magazine September 2010

Buy the Way and 7-Eleven Put Snacks on Sale The discounts of fered in the Seoul Grand Sale don’t only apply to high-dollar buys.

3 6 b r a n c h e s o f B u y t h e Way a n d 7-Eleven around Myongdong and Jongro and a thousand other branches in Seoul are also participating in the sale. Food favored by expats in Seoul such as gochujang (red pepper paste) and instant jug (porridge) are 10-20% off, and triangle kimbap and sandwiches will be 30-50% cheaper through September 12th. All prices and product descriptions will be written in four languages for expats’ convenience. The Seoul Grand Sale runs through September 23rd. seoulgrandsale.com

Expat News

Expats Take 1st and 2nd in Mountain Bike Race

Discount on Miso Tickets for Chuseok

On August 1st, a sweat-drenched Sunday, nine ex-pat riders from Team IGK hammered their pedals at the 11th National President’s Prize Mountain Bike Race in Geumsan, South Chungcheong Province. Heather Holmes and Julie Jan took first and second spots on the podium in the women’s advanced category while Mike Moses placed 5th in men’s intermediate. This is the strongest showing by a foreigner-based team in the race’s history.

Korea’s rugged terrain makes it particularly well-suited for mountain biking. Foreigners can get started by joining the Yahoo Group Mountain Bike Korea (sports.groups.yahoo. com/group/mtbk), an excellent site for meeting other riders. For more about Team IGK and iGuideKorea’s efforts to expose expats to Korea’s exciting wilderness, visit their website. iguidekorea.com igk@iguidekorea.com

It’s Korean Thanksgiving time, otherwise known as Chuseok. This year the folks at the traditional Korean musical Miso are giving you something to be thankful for. There’s never been a better time to enjoy the musical, with a full 30% discount on tickets for the month of September. And, if you just happen to be in the audience during the three-day Chuseok celebration on the 21st, 22nd and 23rd, then you’ll also enjoy some traditional Korean cookies and treats along with the show. If you haven’t seen Miso, now’s a great time to enjoy it and get a little warm up for the 2010 holiday season. koreamiso.com

Marie & M Salon Wants You to Model Who wouldn’t want to be a model for a day? Marie & M hair salon in Seocho-gu is looking for ladies who are ready to receive a bold makeover from the salon’s fabulous stylists. The Marie & M team will pick out an appropriate, attractive style, and apply it at no charge. Don’t miss this chance to get your hair cut and dyed for free as the Marie & M model. blog.naver.com/mariembeauty 02-512-3798

TOMS Shoes Give More the More They Get TOMS Shoes was founded by an American traveler, Blake Mycoskie, during his trip to Argentina in 2006. In an effort to help bare-footed children, TOMS Shoes carries out the One for One project, which provides a pair of shoes to children in need each time a pair of shoes is purchased by customers. As of April 2010, 600,000 pairs of shoes had been distributed to children in Argentina and South Africa. The more shoes that are purchased, the more children will benefit from TOMS Shoes generosity. tomsshoes.co.kr

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Edited by Dav i d Ca rru t h and K you ngh ee Li m

Discounts and More with Citicard’s New English-Language Service Starting this September, Citibank is offering some attractive discounts at Haddon House in celebration of their recent launch of the Citicard English-language service. English-language services include SMS notifications, e-statements, internet and mobile banking, and a 24/7 CitiPhone customer service line.

In addition, customers can apply for any one of three select Citicard products (Citi PremierMiles, Shinsegae Citicard Quattro, or a Citi Revolving Visa Card with a gas discount) via an English-language application form. Once approved, customers under this service receive all relevant information about their new card in English.

This September, customers who already have one of these products can enjoy 5% off their grocery bill at Haddon House, a popular supermarket among expatriates in Seoul located near Hannamdong. Now expatriates can make the most of life in Korea with Citicard English service and enjoy all the benefits that Citicard offers. For additional information about Citibank Credit Card products and promotions, call or visit their website. citibank.co.kr 02-2004-1004

ATEK’s 2nd Presidential Election Next month marks the completion of ATEK President Greg Dolezal’s one-year term as president of the organization.

The organization has grown and achieved significant successes during his tenure. With President Dolezal set to leave office, ATEK is announcing its second presidential election.

This August, our presidential candidate is Ms. Jaehee Oh, a labor officer from the Busan PMA. Ms. Oh, a Korean citizen from Busan who lived in America for eight years, has been teaching English in Korea for five years and is fully bilingual in Korean and English. Her understanding of both Korean language and culture makes her an ideal candidate to build connections with Korean organizations and institutions.

You can learn more about becoming an ATEK member at the ATEK website. atek.or.kr 10 Magazine September 2010

E dited by J e a n H a n and S o ng L e e

JW Marriott Seoul Celebrates 10th Anniversary

Chuseok Hamper Sets

Prestigious Chuseok Gift Sets

Lunch Promotion at Newly Opened Clock 16

JW Marriott Seoul The JW Marriott Seoul has planned three big promotions. Anyone who uploads a photo of a griffin to the website by September 30th can register to win a gift. The hotel has also created unique multi-course dining set menus in honor of the 10th Anniversary (W100,000++) including a complimentary bottle of wine per dinner through Sept.30. Plus, the 10th Anniversary Room Package runs through November 30th (except Nov. 7th – 12th). jw-marriott.co.kr 02-6282-6262

Ritz-Carlton Seoul From September 1st - 30th, The Ritz-Carlton, Seoul, will be featuring prestigious gift sets for Chuseok. Their chefs have cooked up impressive hampers with great gift items such as the finest beef or crab marinated in soy sauce. The hotel has also prepared a smoked salmon and wine gift set (W300,000) and various selections of meat. ritzcarlton.com 02-3451-8184

Jeju Olle Food Fair

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Lotte Hotel Lotte Hotel’s buffet restaurant La Seine (2F) hosts the Jeju Olle Food Fair, featuring diverse specialties from the beautiful island of Jeju through September 30th. La Seine will present a wide array of Jeju delicacies prepared with hairtail, sea urchin, sea bream, abalone, as well as black pork, hallabong, and bracken. The lunch and dinner buffet prices for adults are W57,000++ and W61,000++, respectively. Private rooms are available. lottehotel.co.kr 02-11-7811

InterContinental Seoul The Grand InterContinental Seoul and COEX InterContinental Seoul are introducing hamper sets for this Chuseok (Korean Thanksgiving). They include hotel vouchers and buffet certificates as well as a set of high quality meat. Also, a special wine set chosen by the hotel sommelier and fruit basket composed of fresh seasonal fruits, cheese, and ham await guests. The hamper sets are delivered to Seoul and most of Gyeonggi Province free of charge. (W120,000 – W2,000,000). seoul.intercontinental.co.kr 02-559-7653

Sheraton Grande Walkerhill To celebrate the opening of the Sheraton Grande Walkerhill’s new European restaurant and bar Clock 16, located on the 16th floor of the hotel, all customers will receive a special 16% discount on the 16th day of every month until November.

The Weekend Pasta Set (W39,000+) is yet another delicious treat for visitors during weekend lunch hours.

The set includes an appetizer, a pasta dish, dessert and tea.

Reservations are required. walkerhill.com 02-450-4516

Chuseok Package Combines Culture and Cuisine Grand Hyatt Seoul The Grand Hyatt Seoul is offering a special Chuseok Package (W210,000++) featuring one night’s accommodation in a Grand Double or Twin room, your choice of a lunch or dinner buffet for two persons at The Terrace, complimentary use of the hotel’s spectacular gym and pool and free shuttle service to Namsangol Traditional Village (10 am - 6 pm) from Sep 19th to 24th. seoul.grand.hyatt.com 02-799-8888

+ = subject to 10% VAT, ++ = subject to 10% VAT and 10% service charge

Unforgettable Fall on the Beach Seacloud Hotel

The Seacloud Hotel is now offering its Autumn Package, available through November 30th, for a memorable autumn trip spent on Haeundae Beach.

In addition to a Superior Half Ocean View room (W140,000++), other benefits include breakfast for two adults and special discount coupons for attractions such as the Busan Aquarium and the Tiffany 21 Cruise. Additional charges apply on weekends and the day before national holidays. seacloudhotel.com 051-933-1000

Autumn Package Includes Sports and Sauna Access Novotel Busan

The Novotel Ambassador Busan is offering the Autumn Package (W160,000++) for fall vacationers in Busan through the end of November. Receive free admission for two to the natural salt spring sauna, fitness center, and swimming pool as well as 10% off hotel restaurants. You can also experience golf, squash, billiards, and table tennis in the Ryan & Lillian at a 50% discount (not including screen golf). novotelbusan.com 051-743-1234

Beef, Wine, and More in Chuseok Gift Sets

Busan Lotte Hotel The Busan Lotte Hotel offers Chuseok gift sets, available at Delica-Hans on the 1st floor, until September 20th.

The highest quality corvina, Korean Galbi, Australian beef, wine and other carefully selected items are included (051-810-6490).

Also, talented chefs at the hotel offer dishes made from freshly delivered pine mushrooms in Korean, Chinese and Japanese cuisine through the end of October. lottehotelbusan.com 051-810-1000 10 Magazine September 2010

Advertorial

Find everything you need to know for traveling and living in Seoul, all in one place.

A

re you new to S e o u l? H a ve you eve r felt lost in this city and clueless about how to get around? We’ve all been there. You can’t find the theater you’re looking for, or you find yourself wandering around in an unfamiliar neighborhood, looking for a place to eat.

Perhaps you’re trying to get good tickets to a show or to the movies, but you have no idea where to start. It can be tough city to navigate sometimes, especially if you don’t speak Korean.

But luckily getting around Seoul just got a lot easier thanks to i Tour Seoul.

In a recent survey, we asked visitors and expats living in Seoul to tell us about their experiences with this new service. “I thought getting around Seoul was going to be impossible,” said Sharon, a 29-year-old accountant from Tallahassee, Florida. “I actually printed these lists of places, like itineraries, and maps every day at the hotel lobby and found my way around and did everything without the help of a tour guide.” Sharon was using the i Tour Seoul website (www.visitseoul.net) and found the recommended itineraries, walking tours, and was able to reach every destination using the maps that are also available on the site. She even booked herself tickets to see Nanta and paid for everything using her credit card. When asked if she’d use the service again, she commented, “Yes, I’d definitely use this again because it’s really, really easy!”

Anyone with a smartphone and access to the Internet could also find all the tools that Sharon had used by visiting m.visitseoul.net, the mobile version of the website.

Sharon highlighted one of the best features of the i Tour Seoul service: the ability to buy tickets online. All visitors and foreign residents in Seoul can now find show times for movies and performances, and then book their own tickets without entering an ID number or registering as a member. Since the site accepts all major credit cards, anyone in Seoul will now have the chance to purchase their own tickets 36 | 10 Magazine September 2010

without having to ask a Korean friend for help.

Glenn is a 22-year-old grad student from Sweden who recently stopped t h roug h Seoul for a weekend on his way back from Japan. He rented an iPhone at Incheon Airpor t for a mere 3,000 won a day and sent in rave reviews about the i Tour Seoul mobile phone applicat ion. “It was crazy. I’ve never been to Seoul before, but I was able to know exactly where I was the whole time,” he commented. Glenn was able to use the i Tour Seoul app to pinpoint his location and list the surrounding restaurants, sights, shops, accommodation and travel information. “I really liked the maps in English,” he said. “It was so much better than finding and carrying around a bunch of paper maps for each area.” Any newcomer to Seoul will be able to find his or her way around in no time with i Tour Seoul Maps, which even lists public transportation routes for buses and subways.

There’s a learning curve that comes with public transportation in a new city, but i Tour Seoul makes the adjustment a lot easier. As easy as i Tour Seoul is to use, it’s even easier to sign up for the website. The smartphone application is available for the iPhone, Android and Windows Mobile phones. iPhones can be rented at Gimpo and Incheon International Airports, and other rental sites will be opening soon. i Tour Seoul makes the city so manageable, it’s hard to imagine being in Seoul without it.

Customer Service Contact • iPhone Rental: 1588-0608 (SHOW Global Roaming Center) • Seoul Tourism: 120

(Seoul Tourism Guide Service “Dasan Call Center”)

September 8th – 12th

Sangre Flamenca:

Flamenco Dance Musical “Sangre” means blood, and this flamenco performance will be infused with all the red-blooded passion of Latin dance and the Gypsy spirit. The performers are Spanish dancing duo Rojas and Rodriguez and their flamenco troupe Nuevo Ballet Español, which has toured in countries such

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NATIONWIDE CALENDAR Moss 이끼

Directed by Woo-seok Gang I have to admit that I was a little wary of Moss. Director Wooseok Gang (Silmido and Public Enemy) has made his fair share of hits and misses, and a 163-minute-long mystery movie based on a “webtoon” didn’t really sound too promising. However, I was pleasantly surprised by the creepy ride I was taken on.

Upon hearing that his estranged father has died, Hae-guk (Haeil Park) makes his way to the village where his father lived and attempts to start a new life there. However, the villagers aren’t particularly friendly and the circumstances of his father’s death are in question. Chief Young-deok (Jae-yeong Jung), an ex-detective with a checkered past, seems to be hiding something and Hae-guk is determined to get some answers.

With a strong ensemble cast (and a standout performance by Hae-jin Yu), Moss manages to hold your attention for almost three hours, twisting and turning its way through a rather enjoyable murder mystery. It’s no masterpiece, but this moody tale of judgment and revenge will keep you on the edge of your seat and leave you satisfied.

Movies

Inception Directed by Christopher Nolan Confusing, complicated and refusing to compromise, Inception is perhaps the most intelligent Hollywood action film out there.

Christopher Nolan confronts us with a science fiction tale of dream invasion that may make your brain hurt a little, but will reward you with an incredible cinematic experience.

After messing up his last contract (stealing ideas from dreams), Cobb (Leonardo DiCaprio) has been forced into the hardest con of his life. His task is to infiltrate the dreams of Robert Fischer (Cilian Murphy) and plant an idea there, an idea that Fischer will think is his own.

After putting a team together, Cobb and his right hand man Arthur (Joseph Gordon-Levitt) create a plan to pull off the impossible.

Nolan has imagined an amazing dream world, where he manages to combine twisted science fiction concepts with large-scale action set pieces. The plot can be convoluted at times, but even getting lost in Nolan’s world is a lot of fun. DiCaprio gives one of his best performances in years as Cobb, but it 38 | 10 Magazine September 2010

by Paul M atthews

is Joseph Gordon-Levitt who surprises most with the charming, acrobatic Arthur.

Inception requires its audience to think and won’t allow you to just sit back and let the film wash over you. However, if you’re willing to concentrate a little harder than usual, you’ll find yourself wrapped up in this intriguing heist movie. The special effects are stunning (especially in IMAX), the performances are solid and by the end of the movie you’ll be ready to book tickets to see it again. See this on the biggest screen you can and prepare yourself for one of the best films of 2010.

Toy Story 3 Directed by Lee Unkrich Third time’s a charm for Pixar’s latest outing as Woody, Buzz and friends find themselves abandoned by their owner Andy and stranded in a rather dangerous daycare center. There are the usual sight gags and fantastic action set pieces (on a miniature and not-so-miniature scale), as well as some new toys to meet. Tom Hanks, Tim Allen and Joan Cusack all reprise their voice roles, backed by a fantastic ensemble

New This Month (dates are subject to change) Wednesday, September 1st

The Tournament UK Robert Carlyle, Kelly Hu, Ian Somerhalder; dir. Scott Mann. The world’s most dangerous killers turn an unsuspecting English town into the site of a high-stakes competition.

ments of heart-breaking poignancy.

It’s the greatest film of the series and puts lame franchises like Shrek to shame. Pixar deserves its reputation as the best in the business, and it’s proven itself yet again with a laughout-loud family film that will keep both parents and children entertained.

Edited by j e a n h a n and Dav i d Carruth Thursday, September 16th

Resident Evil: Afterlife USA/UK Milla Jovovich, Ali Larter, Wentworth Miller; dir.

Paul W.S. Anderson. The Resident Evil film series continues as Alice searches for survivors in LA and finally confronts the head of the Umbrella Corporation. residentevil-movie.com

Thursday, September 2nd

Intangible Asset Number 82 땡큐, 마스터 킴 Australia Dir. Emma Franz. This documentary follows a jazz musician on his quest to find a secretive Korean shaman. intangibleasset82.com Lymelife USA Alec Baldwin, Cynthia Nixon, Timothy Hutton; dir. Derick Martini. Fifteen-year-old Scott discovers the cracks forming in his family in this film set in the 1970s. screenmediafilms.net/lymelife Bedevilled 김복남 살인사건의 전말 Korea Yeong-hui Seo, Seong-won Ji, Jeong-hak Park; dir. Cheol-so Jang. Hidden behind the deceptive tranquility of this little island are betrayal, murder, and revenge.

Break Away 탈주 Korea Yeong-hun Lee, Yu-jin So, I-han Jin; dir.

Song-hui-il Lee. A drama about soldiers who go AWOL and the shocking reason behind their decision.

The Kids Are All Right USA Annette Bening, Julianne Moore, Mark Ruffalo; dir. Lisa Cholodenko. In this comedy, the two children of a lesbian couple decide to locate the anonymous sperm donor who is their father. filminfocus.com/the_kids_are_all_right Mulan China/USA Wei Zhao, Jaycee Chan, Rongguang Yu; dir.

Jingle Ma. Based on the same story as the Disney cartoon, this movie is the tale of a brave woman disguised as a man who leads the Chinese army. mulan.sina.com.cn Thursday, September 9th

Cats & Dogs: The Revenge of Kitty Galore USA/Australia James Marsden, Nick Nolte, Christina Applegate; dir. Brad Peyton. Cats and dogs must set aside their differences to forestall the schemes of one crazy cat. catsanddogsmovie.warnerbros.com Oki’s Movie 옥희의 영화 Korea Seon-gyun Lee, Seong-geun Mun; dir. Sang-su Hong. This collection of four short films traces the complex relationship between the three main characters. blog.naver.com/okismovie Quiz King 퀴즈왕 Korea Su-ro Kim, Jae-seok Han, Seung-nyong Ryu; dir. Jin Jang. Fifteen clueless game show contestants battle for 133 billion won in prize money.

Thursday, September 23rd

Wall Street: Money Never Sleeps USA Shia LaBeouf, Michael Douglas, Susan Sarandon; dir. Oliver Stone. Michael Douglas returns as Gordon Gekko twenty years after the original Wall Street. wallstreetmoneyneversleeps.com Thursday, September 30th

Eat Pray Love USA Julia Roberts, Javier Bardem, Billy Crudup; dir. Ryan Murphy. In this film inspired by the memoir of Elizabeth Gilbert, an unhappy woman escapes her marriage and sets off to travel the world. letyourselfgo.com TBA

Grand Prix 그랑프리 Korea Tae-hui Kim, Dong-geun Yang; dir. Yun-ho Yang. After losing her horse and her confidence in an accident on the racecourse, Ju-hui (Kim Tae-hui) goes to Jeju to get away from it all.

Earth’s Women 땅의 여자 Korea Hui-ju So, Seon-hui Kang, Eun-ju Byeon; dir. Woo-jeong Kwon. Three Korean college students quit their classes and head to the countryside in this documentary about rural life. earthwomen.co.kr

Cyrano Agency 시라노; 연애조작단 Korea Tae-ung Eom, Min-jeong Lee, Daniel Choi; dir.

Hyeon-seok Kim. The Cyrano Agency, which claims a 100% success rate in arranging romance for unlucky lads, faces its greatest challenge yet. cyranoagency.com

The Borrower Arrietty Japan Kirin Kiki, Ryunosuke Kamiki, Mirai Shida; dir.

Hiromasa Yonebayashi. Studio Ghibli’s latest film is an adaptation of Mary Norton’s fantasy books about little people living under the floor. karigurashi.jp

A Better Tomorrow 무적자 Korea/Japan/Hong Kong Jin-mo Ju, Seung-heon Song, Gang-u Kim; dir. Hae-seong Song. A remake of the 1986 film by Hong Kong director John Woo, but this time with North Korean defectors and crime lords. go-together.co.kr

The 8 Sentiments 여덟 번의 감정 Korea Yeong-ho Kim, In-yeong Hwang; dir. Ji-hye Seong. In this contemplative drama, Jonghun’s feelings slowly change on his trips from Seoul to Busan to see his girlfriend Eun-ju.

Troubleshooter 해결사 Korea Gyeong-gu Seol, Jeong-jin Lee; dir. Hyeok-jae Kwon. Double-crossed and framed for murder, this bad boy will need all of his fighting skills and wit to survive. ction2010.co.kr 10 Magazine September 2010 | 39

NATIONWIDE

of performers.

Whether it’s the blossoming romance of Barbie and Ken, the ridiculous bickerings of the Potato Heads or the lunacy of a brainwashed Buzz Lightyear, the film cooks up plenty of laughs and surprises, managing to metamorphose from wacky comedy one minute to gritty prison drama the next, interspersed with mo-

Ozzy Osbourne Scream Sony Music

The crazy train just keeps on rollin’, and Ozzy never seems to slacken his grip on the melodic, well-crafted metal that has become his signature sound. Ozzy is definitely “all things to all people” in the metal world, and his pedigree is fully established. Never one to shy away from attempting to blend metal mayhem with commercial cachet, Ozzy throws a plethora of sounds, influences, and styles into Scream. The result is a morethan-adequate metal melange incorporating sounds that evoke Motohead (“Let Me Hear You Scream”), old Sabbath from the Vol. 4 days (“Fearless”), Brit metal à la Iron Maiden and Judas Priest (“Soulsucker”); and Ozzy’s own days with Randy Rhoads (“Let It Die” and “I Want It More”). There’s even a paean to the Beatles (“Strawberry Fields”) that is an unmistakable presence on “Time.”

Once again another leading figure in the old guard of rock demonstrates both ability and endurance, and keeps the metal flame burning. This crazy train is nowhere near the end of the line yet, and all and sundry are still welcome aboard! by M i c h a e l B e rry

SHINee

Lucifer SM Entertainment

How a group can make a “comeback” after leaving the spotlight (but not the public consciousness) for less than a year is a mystery, but somehow SHINee managed to do it. Now, with their second full-length album Lucifer, the group is intent on adding nuanced vocal harmonies, songwriting credits, and poetry to their already impressive resume. Indeed, the album’s most striking feature is its variety. Though lead single “Lucifer” gives Super Junior’s “Bonamana” worthy competition, it can’t rival the vocal flexibility and authentic angst of “Obsession” or the all-encompassing boy band montage of synths and safe pop hooks on “Ready Or Not.” True, the album is still a little heavy on R&B ballads that require little more than swells of tortured crooning, but it compensates with an amalgam of electro, hip-hop, and rap. A comeback it may not be, but it’s competent and a clear improvement over last year.

SHINee keeps proving SM Entertainment’s phenomenal ability to

by A n n a Or z e l produce hits.

Books Popular Books Not by Stieg Larsson that Cost W9,590

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ith Larsson taking the first two spots on the bestseller list, he’s difficult to avoid (as July readers will remember). But this month we take a look at the books Larsson is keeping out of first.

Nine Dragons

Michael Connelly This is the latest in a series of books focusing on LA detective Harry Bosch. In this case, he 40 | 10 Magazine September 2010

The Chemical Brothers

Further Virgin/Warner Korea The Brit music press likes it; their Yank counterparts, not so much. Further, the latest release from major British electronic luminaries Tom Rowlands and Ed Simons seems destined to be one of those albums that marks a directional shift in a band’s musical sojourn, musically and career-wise. In terms of their contributions to the burgeoning electronic music scene, The Chemical Brothers certainly have nothing more to prove. Yet this album, with its foray into a slower, more melodic and at times progressive/psychedelic realm, seems to evince an attempt to go beyond. Whether it’s the techno-folk extravaganza of “Escape Velocity,” the quirky push into highend melody on Swoon, or the percussive determinism that defines “K*D*B,” this due of likely lads has chosen to march in a different direction from previous efforts. “Horse Power” does step back a little into more familiar territory, but overall this is definitely a new sound: less intrusive and incessant than before and one that might garner more than a few WTFs! Daring? To be sure, but a guaranteed success? The jury’s still out on that one, I’m afraid.

by M ichael B erry

by C harles M o n tgomery

is investigating the death of a Chinese convenience store owner.

Security footage and assistance from Detective Chu, a member of the Asian Gang Unit, lead Harry to the Triad, the Chinese extortion outfit. But is Chu trustworthy? If he is, then who is leaking information?

And that’s when Harry’s daughter Madeline, who lives in Hong Kong with her mother Eleanor, goes missing. He drops the LA case to travel across the Pacific to save his daughter. Are her disappearance and the case related? When Eleanor falls into harm’s way, Bosch’s guilt grows and the investigation becomes even more complicated. The book runs along at a whiz-bang pace and feature multiple plot twists. It’s worth picking up.

384 pages, W9,590

The Lucky One

Charlie St. Cloud

Ben Sherwood This book was originally published in 2004 as The Life and Death of Charlie St. Cloud. Charlie and his brother have a terrible accident as teens and as a result, Charlie “sees dead people.”

This is convenient as he becomes an undertaker, but inconvenient in that he manages to make that predictable and sappy. Tack on a ghostly romance, and you have a perfect storm of treacle. If you took the movie The Sixth Sense, the book The Five People You Meet in Heaven, and Robin Williams’ What Dreams May Come and tossed them into a trash compactor along with a fifty-pound sack of sugar, this might well be the result. Consequently, the original was a massive success and is now a movie starring Zac Efron. Sometimes I just don’t get it!

306 pages, W9,590

by S ta ff o r d L u msd e n

The Galaxy S Samsung’s Answer to the iPhone

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hen it comes to phones in Korea, the buzz word is definitely “smartphone.”

Despite KT selling over 800,000 iPhones since November of last year, it’s local powerhouse Samsung that, perhaps predictably, is shaping Koreans’ expectations of smartphones and winning mind share when it comes to the new mobile computing paradigm.

The Galaxy S is not Sammy’s first smartphone offering by any means. Believe it or not, it was only two years ago that the Samsung BlackJack set the standard, albeit on the now defunct Windows Mobile platform. The Galaxy is not Samsung’s first try at taking advantage of Google’s Android operating system either. But with 400,000 buyers since March, it seems that these previous efforts only paved the way for what Samsung is calling the “iPhone Killer.”

There is no denying that the Galaxy equals and in some cases bests the iPhone 4. The 1gHz processor makes Android snappy and fast. The “Super” AMOLED display is a joy to look at with bright vibrant colours consistent with Apple’s Retina Display, and its resolution makes viewing movies shot on the phone in HD 720p quality look that much crisper.

Speaking of movies, the Galaxy makes watching a flick probably the simplest for any phone on the market. The common DivX format for movies

is supported, meaning users can just copy their movies to the external memory card and watch their films on the go. (In markets outside Korea, James Cameron’s Avatar actually came preloaded on the phone!) And speaking of on the go, the Korean market gets the ubiquitous DMB (mobile TV), meaning you will never miss a broadcast of a Starcraft II match while commuting on the subway.

Samsung is aware of the threat that Apple poses to its domestic dominance. As such, it has done two things. First, it has stopped supplying phones to KT, the exclusive carrier for the iPhone, so you’ll only find the Galaxy S at SK Telecom. Second, they have undertaken a massive marketing campaign promoting the phone and the Samsung and Android brands. The main focus of the marketing is that the Galaxy S, despite its somewhat hardcore geek credentials and specifications, is an everyday device for everyday users. Check out the Galaxy S Blog (blog.naver. com/galaxyblog) for stories from “everyday” Korean Galaxy S users (hand-picked by Sammy).

The Galaxy is a serious and credible challenge to Apple’s iPhone. Samsung’s TouchWiz interface is a little sluggish compared to HTC’s Sense UI or the default interface on the Nexus One, but its tight integration with Google services should seal the deal for most.

The Galaxy S is available from SK Telecom at various prices depending on contract. Many thanks to the team at the Samsung A/S centre in Yeokgok for letting me play with the Galaxy S and ask them questions in stilted Korean for half an hour on a rainy Thursday afternoon.

nationwide Hotlines Emergency Police Directory Assistance Medical Information Center

119 112 114 1339

This is a 24-hour, nationwide hospital information service available in English, Korean, Chinese and Japanese.

Foreigner Assistance/Translation BBB 24-hour Language Assistance

1588-5644 KTO Tourism 24-hr Infoline 1330 Korea Immigration immigration.go.kr 1345 Korean Customs customs.go.kr 1577-8577 Seoul Dasan (city info) 02-120

Transportation Asiana flyasiana.com 1588-8000 Busan Air flyairbusan.com 1588-8009 Jeju Air jejuair.net 1599-1500 Korean Air koreanair.com 1588-2001 Intercity Express Bus kobus.co.kr 1588-6900 Korea Railroad Corp. korail.com 1544-7788 Seoul/Gyeonggi Interactive Subway Map smrt.co.kr Mobeom Taxi Service Nationwide 1588-2255 The nationwide “black taxi” number will put you in touch with a driver who speaks English, but these taxis cost about twice as much as taxis from the rest of the color spectrum. Otherwise call 1330 for regular taxis in your area.

Investment Assistance KOTRA kotra.or.kr Invest Korea investkorea.org

02-3460-7114 02-3460-7545

Korean Banks Shinhan Bank Seoul Global Center 100-768 1st Floor, Seoul Finance Center 84 Taepyungro 1-ga Jung-gu Seoul 02-773-3131 Korea Exchange Bank (KEB 외환은행) keb.co.kr 02-729-0114 SC First Bank (SC 제일은행) scfirstbank.com 02-3702-3114

Major Foreign Banks American Express americanexpress.co.kr 02-2000-8100 Australia & New Zealand Banking Group 02-3700-3100 China Construction Bank ccbseoul.com 02-6730-1718 Citibank citibank.co.kr 02-3455-2114 Deutsche Bank 02-724-4500 Bank of America 02-2202-4500 Bank of China 02-399-0368 BNP Paribas

bnpparibas.co.kr 02-317-1700 HSBC 02-311-0060 Websites shown are specifically for the Korean branches of listed foreign banks.

Pizza Delivery Order Nationwide English-speaking Service Domino’s 1577-3082 Papa John’s 1577-8080 Pizza Hut 1588-5588

10 Magazine September 2010 | 41

NATIONWIDE

Nicholas Sparks Nichola s Spa rk s w r ites u nabashed romances, and this is one of his best. Threeterm Iraq War soldier Logan Thibault finds a picture of a pretty woman which he pockets. Soon it becomes clear that in war, as in poker, the photo is a lucky charm.

Logan’s friend Victor figures this out, and while sticking close to Logan also teases him that fate will lead to the unknown woman in the picture.

When luck r uns out for Victor, Logan is crushed and returns to the United States to search for the mysterious woman in the photo.

He finds the woman, named Elizabeth, and it quickly becomes clear to him that it is fate that brought the two of them together. There is one last secret, however, the very secret of the photo, that puts everything in peril. This is a well-done work in a genre I’m not normally keen on.

332 pages, W9,590

Foodie finds

International Food in Itaewon Words and shots by J o e M c Ph e rs o n

For those times when kimchi just doesn’t cut it, these four walking routes will guide you to the best in international dining.

SEOUL

B

efore coming to Korea you may have heard about Itaewon. What exactly you heard will depend a lot on the date of entry of the person who you heard it from. It has not always been what it is, and it won’t always be that way either. Compared with the rest of Seoul, it’s not really that old.

Since its humble beginnings as a few bars and tailors catering to the nearby US army base, it has been in a constant state of flux.

Old-timers (as in people who came before the 2002 World Cup)

disparage what they see as the gentrification of a legendary gritty inland sailor’s village. Yet even that period of Itaewon was relatively short-lived.

For the past couple of years, the constantly changing neighborhood has been going through its greatest metamorphosis. Itaewon now caters to an international crowd in addition to the soldiers, and despite frequent procrastination, the US army base will move south one day. This environment has spawned an exciting dining scene that native Seoulites are finally starting to discover. Sometimes I like to go there to explore different international cuisines, which I call “globing it.” This article will offer you a little walking guide to some of our faves.

Where Would Obi Won Go?

There are three landmarks in Itaewon you usually refer to when meeting someone: the Hamilton Hotel, Gecko’s Terrace, and Quizno’s (formerly Burger King), all of which are just outside Itaewon Station (line 6, the brown line). Let’s start with exit 4, the Gecko’s exit. Gecko’s (1) is not only a good place to grab a steak pie and a beer; it’s also sort of the Star Wars cantina of Seoul. Everyone goes through there at one point. It’s a great mix of nationalities, ages and professions. Investigators looking for missing persons would be wise to start their searches here—and I have been approached by one who did.

Behind Gecko’s is Chef Meili (2). Our resident Austrian chef has breathed life into this sector by whipping up classic schnitzel and chateaubriand in a relaxed setting while also manning a full-service deli. And by full service I mean the man 42 | 10 Magazine September 2010

the Sultan Restaurant. This place has real shish kebabs that taste like a Saturday evening backyard barbecue. As of this writing, they’re closed for renovation.

Passing Sultan and climbing up the stairs, turn left and walk to the end of the street. At the corner is the legendary Suji’s, the restaurant that sparked Korea’s brunch craze. They serve some mean breakfast. Now they’re going for an encore by bringing New York deli sandwiches to Korea. Here’s to hoping that this will also become a trend.

From Turkey to Morocco

1

2

3 cures his own meats and bakes his own breads. He’s also a good source for a rare lobe of foie gras if you’re in the market for it.

Going down the hill you can get some Paraguayan empanadas at El Comedor on the left and one of the best burgers at The Wolfhound (3) on the right. A new find that we’ll go into detail in a future issue is

For the second touring route, start at Quizno’s, walk around the hungry customers lined up at Taco Bell and turn left at the first back street. You’ll immediately hit Sultan Kebab House (4), the place that started the whole kebab trend

4

5

6

in Seoul in 2006. It’s still the best. Heading all the way up to the intersection and turning right, you can find Roofers (5).

We’ve talked about Roofers before, but if you’re a newcomer you weren’t here for that. I’ll shorten it in Twitter-speak: Roofers is gd 4 ThaiTunaMelt, gr8 brgr n beer on rooftop.

Across the street and up a ways you hit the Foreign Food Mart. This is the best bet for hard-to-find items from almost any international cuisine, especially lamb and curries.

The last find on this leg is a bit of a walk. Back on the main street, head toward the big Cheil Building. You’ll pass by Rocky Mountain Tavern, an authentic Canadian tavern with great wings and pizza.

Next to it is Marrakech Night (6), Korea’s best stop for authentic Moroccan food.

9

7 8

The Restaurant Row

Now for the Hamilton Hotel side. This is where the big restaurant renaissance has been occurring over the past five years.

It’s not on the main street but immediately behind the hotel. Slightly more upscale ethnic restaurants populate this restaurant row, starting with the granddaddy Le Saint Ex (7) French bistro across from the 3 Alley Pub. You can find great desserts at the former and great goulash soup at the latter. Or pick up a strawberry-rhubarb pie from Tartine, which is close by. This street is where to go for the world mix: Bulgarian at Zelen, Greek at Santorini, Brazilian at Copacabana and the beach barbecue environment of Bungalow (8), serving skewers with dozens of world flavors. We’re only naming a few on this one because the establishments come and go rapidly. For the rest, here are some handy guidelines: if it’s lively, it’s good. If it’s only waiters standing out front, it’s struggling. If there’s a line out the door, stay away. It’s overhyped.

Roads Less Traveled

Now for the less-traveled areas. From Itaewon Station, go out of exit 1 and walk towards the Burger King. Two streets before BK, turn right up the hill. Tucked

10

away on this street is the other restaurant of royalty, Chili King (9). Great chili. Go figure. A little further to the right is Irani, a tiny friendly restaurant that is a favorite of long-time Itaewon insiders.

For the final part of our quick walking tour, we return to the Burger King area.

Count three streets beyond that—the last small street before the large junction leading to Noksapyeong. This road ramps up and around, eventually leading to the expat neighborhood of Haebangchon. If you’re in the mood for a soothing cup of herbal tea and some enticing pan-Asian treats, check out Berlin (10). For our friends from Oz, Tony’s Aussie Bar & Bistro serves all the comforts of home, including beetroots, vegemite, meat pies and Tim Tam Slams.

We end our journey at the top of the hill overlooking the edge of Itaewon. Petra (11) stands on the rock and has crys-

Chili King

3 Alley Pub

11 tallized its reputation as one of the oldest and best stops for Middle Eastern cuisine and the origin of the Itaewon pastime of hookah smoking.

I

t’s been quite a tour, but we still haven’t completely covered t he neighborhood. That’s because it’s still growing. The Hannam-dong eastern edge offers some upscale fine dining, and there’s a row of Japanese izakaya in between. And at night, it has the most diverse street food in Seoul. Feel free to explore and share your favorite finds as comments on the online version of the article at 10magazine.asia.

Bungalow

Petra Tony’s Aussie Bar Berlin

Burger King

Le Saint Ex

Hamilton Hotel

Tartine

Ex.1

Ex.2

Ex.4

Ex.3

Itaewon Stn. Line 3

Suji’s

Gecko’s Wolfhound

Quiznos Taco Bell Sultan Kebab

Rocky Mountain Tavern

Marakech Night

Chef Meili Roofers

Foreign Food Mart 10 Magazine September 2010 | 43

SEOUL DISCOVERIES

The B-Boy Next D oor

SEOUL Fantastic footwork at frequent b-boy jams keeps Seoul in the center of breakdance worldwide.

W o rds and s h ot s b y M at t h e w C r o mp t o n

I

have long been suspicious of any subculture employing the use of adjectives like “sick,” “nasty,” or “dope” to serve as high praise. Sideline for the battles at the R16–the international b-boying competition held recently in Olympic Park– however, I find myself being quickly converted. As crews from eight countries throw down impossible airflares, gravity-defying freezes, and crisp toprock footwork, I pick my jaw up off the floor, forced to admit that yeah, that move was simply dope.

Nomenclature aside, what you may not know is that alongside profligate alcohol consumption, ingestion of pickled cabbage, and the manufacture of flat-screen TVs, the southern half of the Korean Peninsula is also a world leader in the international b-boying and breakdancing scene. Seoul in particular is home to more upper-echelon toprockers and powerheads per capita than almost anywhere on earth, including R16 champion crew Jinjo and former Battle of the Year winners Gamblerz. And if you find yourself here in the Land of the Morning Calm, you owe it to yourself to check it out.

Practice spots and studios dot the city, from Namguro to Nowon to Apgujeong, with Hongdae serving as a major locus, and events and b-boy jams happening every month. Like any other scene that is constantly changing and evolving, the internet is your best source of information on current spots, upcoming events and classes for those keen on developing their six-step.

The Bboy World forums (bboyworld.com/forum: free registration required; check out “Training Spots Asia” for the 44 | 10 Magazine September 2010

Seoul sticky) remain an excellent source of information, but for the most up-to-date info, join the Seoul Bboying Guide Facebook group, an active and responsive online community. Check out the Photos tab, especially p a ge 1, fo r c u r r e nt event fliers.

Before you hit that first event, though, be forewar ned. Regular exposure to anything this dope may be habitforming.

Central Sanctuary, Yeo Yeo (bottom)

SEOUL

M editation Myoga ksa

at

Find a weekend’s worth of enlightenment at this 500-year-old temple hidden in the middle of Seoul.

W o rds and s h ot s b y K yl e B ur t o n

T

emple stay programs are a great opportunity to experience Korean Buddhism in an authentic and inexpensive way. Of course, many temples are located in remote areas of the country and are often difficult to get to.

Myogaksa, however, offers the perfect getaway without having to get away. Tucked away in the bedrock of Mt. Naksan in the middle of Seoul, Myogaksa is a historical Buddhist holy ground dating back 500 years to when the city was much smaller than it is today. Not only is Myogaksa easy to reach, but it also offers programs in English. Your guide is Yeo-Yeo, a friendly nun who has been at the temple for nearly 10 years and teaches about Buddhism in fluent English.

Myogaksa offers two programs, an overnight stay (W50,000) or a one-day program (threeand-a-half hours, W30,000). The overnight stay usually commences on a Saturday afternoon; however, if you are booking with a large group, it is possible to reserve any day of the week.

The weekend program begins with registration at 2:30 pm. During your 20-hour stay, you will have the opportunity to make beaded prayer bracelets, practice meditation, and walk up the mountain to Naksan Park where you can watch the sunrise. Your sojourn concludes with a tea ceremony at 10:30 am, when you are free to ask any questions you may have to one of the monks or nuns.

Whether you are looking to fulfill a spiritual need, learn about Buddhism, or simply try something new, the temple stay program offered at Myogaksa is sure to suit your needs. myogaksa.net 02-763-3345 yeodiamond@naver.com G e t ti n g th e r e

Start at exit 2 of Dongmyo Stn. (line 6). Take your first left and your first right and then walk up the hill and follow the sign boards leading to the temple.

10 Magazine September 2010 | 45

SEOUL CALENDAR E DI T OR’ S PICK

SEOUL

Design & Fashion September 17th – October 7th Seoul Design Fair

Much to the surprise of those who grumble about the monotonous apartments and ugly signs, Seoul was named the 2010 World Design Capital. In response, the city has planned dozens of programs, exhibitions and conferences for the Seoul Design Fair. The events for this year’s fair roughly fall into the categories of economy, participation, and education. Among the economic events, the Seoul Design Market will bring together major designers and prospective buyers. The participation theme includes the Seoul International Design Competition, which has drawn thousands of submissions. For education, the Hall of Idea Imagination offers children inspirational tours of design exhibits. These and other events take place at the main pavilions set up at the Jamsil Sports Complex, as well as other design clusters in Hongdae, Dongdaemun, Guro, and Sinsa. Most events are open to all and free of charge. sdf.seoul.go.kr

Design & Fashion September 8th – October 31st Formula One: The Great Design Race Get ready for the Formula One Grand Prix scheduled for October with this exhibit about the race to design the perfect car. Seoul Arts Center. 11 am – 8 pm. Adults W12,000, teens W10,000, children W8,000. sac.or.kr/f1 September 18th Mio Fall 2010 Trunk Show See the latest designs from this children’s clothing brand that emphasizes fine fabric, dainty design, and sanguine spirit.

Hallasan at the Seoul Club. 11 am - 7 pm. mioseoul.com 0505-258-2525

Art

Though September 5th Pop Art Superstar Keith Haring Throughout the 1980s, Keith Haring used his simple yet powerful images to send a message about critical social issues. Soma Museum at Olympic Park near Mongchontoseong St. (line 5, ex.

1). 10 am – 6 pm. Adults W12,000, teens W10,000, children W8,000. haring.co.kr 02-410-1343 Through September 11th Blindness in the City Inspired by the book by Jose Saramago, this unusual exhibit is held at Boan Yeogwan near Gyeongbok Palace. Noon – 9 pm. cafe. naver.com/boaninn.cafe 02-720-8409 Dynamic State Exhibit In the art garden outside of the Sejong Center Through September 26th

Every Saturday Hongdae Free Market It’s called “free,” not “flea,” because the objects on sale here are hand-crafted by the vendors and not second-hand products. Held in the playground across from Hongik University (line 2). 1 - 6 pm. cafe.daum.net/artmarket, artfreemarket@hanmail.net Through September 4th Walker Evans Photo Exhibit American photographer Walker Evans is best known for his work chronicling the hardships of farmers during the Great Depression. Hanmi Photography Museum. Mongchontoseong Stn. (line 8, ex. 2). Weekdays 10 am – 7 pm.

Weekends 11 am – 6:30 pm. photomuseum.or.kr 02-418-1315

46 | 10 Magazine September 2010

Modern English Landscape Paintings This is your chance to assess the artistic value of 18th and 19th century English landscape paintings by masters like J.M.W. Turner and John Constable. Seoul Arts Center.

11 am – 8 pm Thrugh October 3rd The Calligraphy of Sang-hyeon Lee

Sejong Center. 10:30 am – 10:30 pm.

Dark Mondays Through October 10th

genre-bending mash-up of break dance and ballet. Lotte World Art Hall at Jamsil St. (line 2). Wed – Thu 8 pm, Fri 5 & 8 pm, Sat – Sun 3 & 6 pm. Dark Mon & Tue. W50,000. showbboy.com 02-2266-3727

E DI T OR’ S PICK S

Battle B-Boy Romance at a dance tournament serves as the setting for this exhibition of awesome dance routines and soaring aerial moves. Hongdae.

Tue - Fri 8 pm Sat 6 pm, Sun 2 pm.

W50,000. sjbboys.com 02-323-5233

Through November 14th White Porcelain Jars: Embracing Joseon Ideals and Rituals These delicate and intricately designed white porcelain jars embodied the lives and attitudes of people in the Joseon Dynasty. National Museum of Korea, Ichon St. (line 4, ex. 2). Tue, Wed, Fri 9 am – 6 pm. Wed, Sat 9 am – 8 pm. Sun 9 am – 7 pm. museum.go.kr 02-2077-9000 Through December 26th “Flight” Exhibit A number of young Korean artists explore the themes of youth, challenge, and the future. Mapo Arts Center. 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Free

Bubble World Though geared toward younger children, anyone can enjoy this creative presentation of bubbles, fans, lighting, and lasers. Myungbo Art Hall in Jongno. Wed 3 pm, Thu & Fri 3 pm & 8 pm, weekend 2 & 4:30 pm (and 8 pm on Sat). bubbleworld.co.kr 02-2263-9742 Drawing Show Art exhibit or performance? The drawing show is as fun to watch as it is hard to classify.

Drawing Show Theater in Daehangno in Seoul (Hyehwa Station, exit 1).

Weekdays 8 pm. Sat 4 pm, 7 pm. Sun 3 pm, 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W30,000, children W20,000. afe.daum. net/drawingshow, drawingshow@gmail. com 02-766-7848

August 6th – November 7th Fanta-stick This slapstick nonverbal Over The Rainbow 1 Nine artists show offers young ones lots of laughs. present Dorothy as she makes nine Conveniently located at bizarre journeys through the 63 Building in Yeouido. time and space. Sungkok VENUES Tue - Sun 8 pm. W32,000 Art Museum near - W50,000. fanta-stick.co.

Gwanghwamun St (line 5).

Arko Arts Theater Hyehwa Stn. (line 4, ex. 2) kr 02-789-5664 10 am – 6 pm. Closed arko.or.kr 02-760-4840 Mon. Adults W5,000, Jump First performed in students W4,000.

COEX Samsung Stn. (line 2) 2003, this non-verbal show sungkokmuseum.com coex.co.kr 02-6000-0114 combines a comic story 02-737-8999 Mapo Arts Center with martial arts moves Daeheung Stn. (line 6, ex.

2) September 7th – and impressive visuals. mapoartcenter.or.kr November 17th Downtown near Jonggak 02-3274-8600 Media City Seoul Stn. Mon 8 pm, Tue – Sat National Theater of Korea 4 & 8 pm, Sun 3 & 6 pm.

This is the 6th Seoul Shuttle available from Dongguk International Biennale of W40,000 – W50,000.

Univ. Stn. (line 3, ex. 6) Media Art, held at the hijump.co.kr 02-722-3995 ntok.go.kr 02-2280-4114 Seoul Museum of Art and other venues. Free.

Sangsang Madang Korea House Art Space Hongdae mediacityseoul.org info@ Performance Head over sangsangmadang.co.kr mediacityseoul.org to the Korea House for two 02-330-6200 daily performances based September 9th – 11th on traditional Korean Sejong Center Seoul DMC “Culture Gwanghwamun Stn. culture. You can also Open” Festival (line 5, ex. 8) sample Korean royal Featuring the Digital Media sejongpac.or.kr 1544-1887 cuisine before the show.

Art Festival, DMC Chungmuro Stn. (lines 3 & Seoul Art Center Nambu High-Tech Street Festival, 4, ex. 3). 7 – 8 pm, 8:50 – Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5) and Culturenomics. Digital 9:50 pm. Dinner starts at sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Media City (DMC) in W68,000. Performance is SETEC Mapo-gu. sedco.sba.kr W50,000. kangkoku.or.kr/ (Seoul Trade Exhibition Center) 02-3153-7124 eng 02-2266-9101 Hagyeoul St. (line 3, ex. 1) September 9th – 13th setec.or.kr 02-2222-3811 Legend of Flower This Korea International Art romantic tale of two lovers Fair Thousands of pieces redefines what a performance can be of art are for sale at the KIAF, held at with stunning sound effects, tantalizing COEX. Thu – Sun 11 am – 8 pm, Mon 11 aromas, holographs, and more. am – 5 pm. Adults W15,000, students Walkerhill Theatre at the Sheraton W10,000. kiaf.org 02-766-3702 Grande Walkerhill. Mon – Sat 5:30 & 7 pm. W60,000 and up.

Theater & Dance legendofflower.com 02-455-5000 Ongoing The Ballerina Who Loved a B-Boy This story of a would-be ballerina who falls for a b-boy street dancer is a

Miso Chongdong Theater presents Miso, a story of one woman’s encounter with love told through traditional dance, percussion, and music. City Hall Station.

SEOUL

Asian Realism Almost 100 paintings by artists from ten Asian countries. National Museum of Contemporary Art, Deoksugung Palace branch. City Hall St. (line 1, ex. 2).

Closed Mon. 10 am – 5 pm. Sat 10 am – 8 pm. Adults W5,000, teens W2,500. moca.go.kr 02-2022-0600.

Billy Elliot: The Musical Since its release in 2005, the musical Billy Elliot (based on the 2000 movie) has won dozens of awards and has been staged successfully in major venues across the worldwide. In Korean. LG Arts Center

by Yeoksam St. (line 2, ex. 7). Weekdays 8 pm, Weekends 2 & 7:30 pm, dark Mon. W50,000 – W130,000. lgart.com 02-2005-0114

Theater & Dance September 8th – 12th

Sangre Flamenca: Flamenco Dance Musical Continued from p. 37

as the United States, Great Britain, and Germany and received awards including the Best Flamenco and Spanish Dance Company (1999) and the Villa de Madrid Prize for Best Dance Interpreters (2005). Their dances transcend traditional flamenco, maintaining its essence while adding elements from classical and modern Spanish dance. In Sangre Flamenca, six male and four female dancers take the stage to exhibit their explosive routine. The highlight of the work is the dynamic duo performance by Rojas and Rodriguez. Complementing the dancing will be the powerful but plaintive Gypsy music of seven musicians and singers. Universal Art Center. Achasan Stn. (line 5, ex. 4). Weekdays 8 pm, weekends 3 & 7 pm. W55,000 – W150,000. superflamenco.com 02-517-0394

Hamlet, Schaubuhne am lehniner platz

Fernando Amorsolo, Philippines, Rice Planting, 1924, Oil on canvas, 69 x 99cm, Collection of Mr. and Mrs. Paulino Que

Theater & Dance September 24th – November 7th

Theatre Olympics

Think of the great theatre centers of the world, and you are sure to evoke visions of New York City’s Broadway, London’s West End, and even Moscow’s Theatre Square. As the host of the 5th Theatre Olympics, it may not be long before Seoul is added to the list of cities showcasing some of the finest new theatre talent in the world. Last October, a 14-country committee chose Seoul to host the festival, which will attract hundreds of performers, directors and writers from all over the world to the city in September 2010. Performances at the festival will take place at the National Theater of Korea, Arko City and the Myeongdong Arts Theater. For more information and a detailed schedule, visit the website. theatreolympics.or.kr 02-747-2901 Words by Ba rr i Tsava r is 10 Magazine September 2010 | 47

SEOUL CALENDAR 4 pm & 8 pm. Closed Mon. W30,000 – W50,000. miso.mct.or.kr/eng 02-751-1500

Show Russian puppet troupe Ognivo performs this show for youngsters.

Mapo Arts Center. 8 pm. W10,000 – W20,000. 02-3274-8600 September 9th – 11th La Traviata: The Opera One of Verdi’s masterpieces. Seoul Arts Center. Thu – Fri 3 & 7:30 pm, Sat 7:30 pm.

W10,000 – W50,000 September 10th - 11th Simia Concumbia: The Play This new play by Boots McMartin will be presented for the first time by the Workshop Division at Roofers in Itaewon.

9 – 11 pm. W10,000 includes a drink. roofers.co.kr, workshopdiv@yahoo.com

SEOUL

Nanta This kitchen percussion extravaganza is the non-verbal stage show that nearly everyone sees at least once. Two Seoul locations and performances almost daily. Refer to website for more details. W50,000 – W60,000. nanta.co.kr 02-739-8288

September 17th - 19th Cosi Fan Tutte: The Opera Seoul Art Center.

Fri 7:30 pm, Sat 3 & 7:30 pm, Sun 4 pm.

W10,000 – W50,000 Othello: The Play A modernized version of the tragic tale of envy and desire. National Theater of Korea.

Weekdays at 8 pm, weekends at 3 pm. W20,000 – W70,000

Nori Madang Traditional For more Performance Every Sunday at September 18th – 19th detailed venue 3 pm, Korean dancers and information, Shakespeare Festival See singers present you with all the see p.

47 Shakespeare’s plays performed vivid colors and exotic sounds in the original language (i.e. of a traditional performance.

English). National Theater of Korea. 7 Free. Sokchon Lake Park near Jamsil pm. Free. 010-7300-0266 Stn. (line 2, ex. 3). 02-120

Proudly supplied by Kobeak Foods©

Pan An exciting combination of Korean folk songs, minstrel music, and percussion of all kinds. Gwanghwamun Art Hall. Weekdays at 7:30 pm, weekends at 4 pm, closed Mon and Tue. 90 min. W30,000 – W50,000. ghmarthall.co.kr 02-722-3416

September 21st – October 24th Romeo and Juliet: Musical Play With the Mokhwa Repertory Company.

Korean language. Sejong Center.

Weekdays 8 pm, weekends 3 pm. Dark Mondays. Adults W30,000, minors W20,000

Sa-Choom A non-verbal dance performance telling the story of three friends’ coming of age. Tue – Fri 8 pm.

Sat 4 pm, 7:30 pm. Sun 4 pm.

W50,000. lovedance.co.kr 070-8249-3023

September 25th Aga 雅歌 (“Bright Song”): The Dance An expression of the Korean spirit through dance. Arko Arts Theater. Sat 4 & 7:30 pm, Sun 7:30 pm. W20,000 – W30,000. 02-704-6420

Through September 11th The Phantom of the Opera In Korean. Tue – Fri 8 pm. Sat 3 & 8 pm.

Sun 2 & 7 pm. W40,000 – W140,000.

Charlotte Theater near Jamsil Stn. (line 2 & 8, ex. 3). phantomoftheopera.co.kr 02-501-7888

Russian National Classical Ballet If you’re wondering why so many performances this year feature Russian artists, it’s because this is the 20th anniversary of normalizing diplomatic relations between Russia and South Korea. 9/25: Sleeping Beauty. 9/26: Swan Lake. 3 & 7 pm. Sejong Center.

02-737-6614

September 1st – 3rd Le Nozze Di Figaro: The Opera Seoul Arts Center. Wed – Thu 7:30 pm, Fri 3 & 7:30 pm. W10,000 – W50,000 September 3rd - 4th The Flaming Sword: The Dance Dance troupe Black Sonata performs The Flaming Sword, inspired by the Pablo Neruda poem of the same name.

Arko Arts Theater. Fri 8 pm, Sat 5 pm.

W15,000 – W20,000. 02-2220-1338 September 3rd – 19th The King is the King: The Play This Arabian play is presented as part of the modern drama series. Subtitles available in Arabic and English!

Weekdays 8 pm, Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 3 pm. W20,000 – W30,000. Sejong Center September 4th – 5th Shakespeare on Love, Sex, and Romance Amateur Shakespearean drama troupe Actors Without Barders has carefully assembled the bawdiest of the Bard’s dramaturgy for your literary delectation. Theater Gori near Hyehwa Stn. (line 4, ex. 4). 9/4: 7 pm. 9/5 3 & 7 pm. W10,000. actorswb@yahoo.com September 9th Tomorrow Starts Yesterday: Puppet

48 | 10 Magazine September 2010

September 25th – 30th Raymonda: The Ballet This famous Russian ballet was composed in the late 19th century, but this performance features more recent choreography by Yuri Grigorovich. Seoul Arts Center.

Weekdays and Sat 7:30 pm, Sun 3 pm.

W5,000 – W120,000 September 30th – October 20th Seoul International Dance Festival International dance acts bring new life into the Korean contemporary dance scene at this yearly festival. Events held at the Seoul Arts Center, Sejong Center, and other venues. sidance.org 02-3216-1185

Concerts September 1st The Ik-tae An Memorial Concert The KBA Symphony Orchestra performs Beethoven’s Egmont Overture and Mozart’s Piano Concerto No. 24, along with short pieces by Korean composers. Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm September 2nd – 5th Seoul International Computer Music Festival Twenty-six artists were

SEOUL

Choi, Sora and Arirang Party

E DI T OR’ S P ICK s

Concerts September 4th – 30th

The Seoul Drum Festival If you’re looking for a little rhythm, the Seoul Drum Festival may be just what you need. On the main stage, the headlining performances (9/24 – 9/26) feature twenty teams from Korea and seven teams from countries including India, Japan, and France. But why remain a spectator when you can join a huge percussion parade 10,000 people strong (9/25) in an attempt to set a Guinness World Record? Applications for the parade are accepted online. Other events include a Chuseok Drum Concert (9/23), a Percussion Art “Market” (actually more of a group showcase), and fringe drum performances (9/4 – 9/26) at several locations throughout Seoul To get there, head to Ttukseom Stn. (line 2, ex. 8) and listen for the sound of drums. seouldrum.go.kr/English 02-757-2121

Concerts September 12th

Isang Yun Concert

Mistrusted during his life and admired after his death, classical composer Isang Yun is a testament to the tragedy of the Korean War. He was abducted by South Korean agents while living in West Germany and would have been executed as a spy had Western musicians not intervened. He spent the rest of his life in Germany, forbidden to return to his native land, and he died in 1995 before pardon was given. Since then, South Korea has recognized his contributions to classical music with the Tongyeong Music Festival, established in his honor. At this concert, you can hear Yun’s 2nd Symphony, performed for the first time in Korea and Edouard Lalo’s Symphonie Espagnole The Wonju Symphony Orchestra performs with Chi-yong Jeong conducting. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3). 8 pm. W20,000 – W70,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300

“Like” us on Facebook today! www.facebook.com/10magazine 10 Magazine September 2010 | 49

SEOUL CALENDAR

SEOUL

chosen from the 200 who submitted a composition to the judges. The guest ensemble is the influential German group Aventure. Seoul Arts Center. 7:30 pm. W10,000

for Falla’s El Sombrero de Tres Picos, Tchaikovsky’s Variations on a Rococo Theme, and Schumann’s Symphony No. 1, Spring. Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm.

W10,000 – W50,000

September 2nd – 11th Yeo Woo Rak: “Our Music Is Here” Festival 9/2 – 9/3: Gong Myeong. Apparently, Korean world music, which sounds like an oxymoron. 8 pm.

9/4 – 9/5: Noreum Machi. Famous for their work in The King and the Clown.

Sat 6 pm, Sun 3 pm.

9/7 – 9/8: Sonagi Project. 8 pm.

9/9 – 9/10: Dulsori. 8 pm.

9/11: Jam Concert. All of the groups team up for a joint concert. 4 & 7 pm.

National Theater of Korea.

W20,000 – W30,000

Schumann Chamber Music Festival On the 200th anniversary of the death of Schumann, the Sejong Center will hold a concert featuring Schumann’s Märchenbilder for Viola and Piano op.

113, Märchenerzählungen for Clarinet, Viola and Piano Op. 132 and other pieces. 8 pm. W30,000 – W80,000.

02-780-5054

September 3rd Junge Munchner Philharmonie Performing Beethoven’s Egmont Overture, Rachmaninoff’s Piano Concert No.2, Yong-Jin Kwon’s Kyung-Hee Fantasia Through the World, and Dvorak’s Symphony No. 9. Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm.

W30,000 – W150,000

September 4th Gwacheon Academic Symphony Orchestra Chopin’s Piano Concerto No. 2 and Mahler’s Symphony No. 3.

2:30 pm. W10,000 – W20,000. Seoul Arts Center An Evening of Love The Camarata Music Company will perform a selection of romantic pieces with Ryan Goessl conducting. The concert will begin with the choral harmonies of Brahms’ Liebeslieder Walzer and move on to the Rachmaninoff’s turbulent Suite no. 2 for Two Pianos. 7:30 PM at Chungdong First Methodist Church, near City Hall Station. camaratamusic.com 010-9806-8655 September 5th Korea-China-Japan Culture Shuttle Concert Ensemble Ditto performs Dvorak’s Piano Quintet op.81 and Schubert’s Piano Quintet The Trout.

Seoul Arts Center. 2:30 pm.

W30,000 – W80,000 Ji-eun Yun Piano Recital Piano pieces by Chopin and Schumann. Sejong Center. 8 pm Korea W Philharmonic Orchestra: A Stroll Through Musicals and Jazz “Over the Rainbow,” “Phantom of the Opera,” and many more. Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm. W22,000 – W77,000

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50 | 10 Magazine September 2010

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September 12th Bassist Anthony Jackson in Korea New York-based Anthony Jackson, who exclusively uses a six-string bass that he calls a contrabass guitar, has had a massive influence on the contemporary electric bass scene.

Mapo Art Center. 6 pm. W33,000 – W77,000. 02-3274-8600

September 13th Gangnam Symphony Orchestra Playing Mendelssohn’s Overture to Die Hebriden; Beethoven’s Triple Concerto for Violin, Cello & Piano; and Brahms’ Symphony No. 3. Seoul Art Center. 8 pm. W10,000 – W50,000

For more detailed venue information, see p. 47

September 3rd, 8th, 15th, Seoul Philharmonic Orchestra in Free Concert Seoul Plaza near City Hall Stn. (line 1 & 2). 7:30 pm. seoulphil.or.kr

Best haircut makes life happier.

All staff has qualified by VIDAL SASSOON

September 10th – 11th G3: Extreme Guitar Concert Popular Korean indie groups like Galaxy Express and Kingston Rudieska will cover songs by classic rock favorites like Chuck Berry and Elvis on the 10th and metal groups like Metallica and Megadeth on the 11th. W20,000 in advance, W25,000 at the door. Sangsang Madang Art Space in Hongdae

September 7th The Women Pavarotti Loved: The Concert Three years after the death of Luciano Pavarotti, the Prime Philharmonic Orchestra performs Wagner’s Prelude to The Mastersingers of Nuremberg, Mascagni’s Cavalleria Rusticana, and more. Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm. W20,000 – W70,000.

September 10th Seoul Philharmonic Orchestra: Masterpiece Series III Spanish conductor Jesus Lopez-Cobos and cellist Alban Gerhardt join the Seoul Phil

September 14th Beethoven Complete Sonata Series: Su-Jin Park Piano Recital With Sonata No. 1, 2, and 3, as well as the well-known Moonlight Sonata, No. 14. Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm. W20,000 September 15th London Philharmonic Orchestra Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm. 1577-5266 September 16th London Philharmonic Orchestra Vassily Serafimovich Sinaisky is conducting this world-renowned orchestra. Guest violinists Stefan Jackiw and Richard Yongjae O’Neill bring their distinctive charm to this performance of Beethoven’s Leonore Overture, Mozart’s Sinfonia Concertante, and Tchaikovsky’s Symphony No. 5. Sejong Center. 7:30 pm. W40,000 – W200,000. 02-751-9607 Pianist Emmanuel Strosser and Cellist Yang Sung Won Playing pieces by Schumann and Brahms’ cello sonatas. Kumho Art Hall near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 7).

8 pm. W8,000 – W30,000. kumhoarthall.co.kr 02-6303-7700 September 17th London Philharmonic Orchestra The LPO performs for a third consecutive night in Seoul with soloist Sarah Chang on the violin. The program includes Weber’s Overture to Oberon, Brahms’ Violin Concerto, and Dvorak’s Symphony No. 8. Seoul Arts Center.

W50,000 – W280,000 Seoul Philharmonic Orchestra Free Concert With a program focusing on woodwind concertos included in movie

E DI T OR’ S PICK

Film September 2nd – 10th

Chungmuro International Film Festival

scores. Seoul History Museum near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 1). 11:50 am. seoulphil.or.kr 02-724-0190 September 18th Asian Rock Bus 2010 Featuring essential indie groups Crying Nut, Doberman, and Galaxy Express. V-Hall in Hongdae. W33,000. ticket.yes24.com 02-326-3075 Zach Hill in Concert Eccentrically excellent indie musician Zach Hill will visit Freebird in Hongdae on his Asian tour this fall. supercolorsuper.com September 21st Yeong-im Kim in Concert Be awed by this gugak (traditional Korean music) singer’s powerful voice.

Sejong Center. 2 & 5:30 pm. W40,000 – W120,000. 02-2233-1755 September 28th Famous Korean Choral Music National Theater of Korea. 8 pm.

W15,000 – W30,000. 02-2280-4115

Film September 1st – 7th Experimental Film and Video Festival (EXIS) If you’re sick of Hollywood plot clichés and predictable cinematography, then this experimental film fest may be for you. Arthouse MOMO and other venues. ex-is.org 02-3141-1841 September 2nd – 8th Great Short Film Festival Films cost W5,000 each. Sangsang Madang Art Space in Hongdae

SEOUL

It was i n Chu ngmuro that Danseongsa, the f irst Korean theater, was built in 1907, and it has remai ned a prov i ng g rou nd for Korea n ci nema ever si nce.

This will be the fourth year that this historically significant area will host the Chungmuro International Film Festival in Seoul, which provides Seoul cinephiles with a closer alternative to PIFF in Busan, scheduled for this October. This year, CHIFFS will be screening nearly 100 films from 28 countries in theaters including Lotte Cinema and Myeongdong CGV. There are a variety of programs to satisfy even choosy viewers. Try Panorama to catch up on current trends in cinema, or revisit classic films and influential directors of yesteryear with Cine Retro. Movies cost W5,000 with discounts for packages. There are English subtitles available for all films. For up-to-the-minute information, refer to the helpful English website. eng.chiffs.kr September 7th Lecture on Brazilian Cinema On Brazil’s Independence Day, award-winning Brazilian filmmaker Tizuka Yamazaki will be delivering a lecture at the Korea Foundation Cultural Center. 3 - 5 pm. Free, but seating is limnited. brasemb.or.kr 02-738-4970

Family & Community Ongoing Can You Drive a Subway Train?

With the Seoul Metropolitan Rapid Transit Corporation, the answer is yes!

Every Sat and Sun from 2 – 6 pm, four lucky souls will get to take the wheel of one designated train. Applications available at smrt.co.kr 02-6311-2200 Namsangol Korean Style Culture Outing The Namsangol Hanok Village gives you your daily dose of Korean style. Try calligraphy in Hangeul, learn how to drink tea properly, wear some hanbok, make hanji (Korean paper), or play gugak (traditional music).

Namsangol Hanok Village near Chungmuro Stn. (lines 3 and 4, ex. 4).

11 am – 5 pm. Activities range from W3,000 – W8,000. hanokmaeul.seoul. go.kr 02-2266-6923 Traditional Cultural Performance “Misuda” Try on traditional garb, snack on Korean food, and hear the music that might have been played for King Sejong himself. Located at the Seoul Namsan Traditional Theater near Chungmuro Stn. (line 3). 4 pm.

W50,000. sngad.or.kr 02-2261-0512

10 Magazine September 2010 | 51

SEOUL CALENDAR Traditional Wedding Ceremony Held every Sunday at 3 pm at the Namsan Hanok (traditional Korean house) Village near Chungmuro Stn. (line 3 & 4, ex. 3). visitseoul.net 02-2266-6923 All Month KFCC 5th Anniversary Festival This month marks the 5th anniversary of the Korea Foundation Cultural Center. To celebrate the occasion, the center presents exhibits, marimba and tango concerts, a lecture, and movie screenings.

Events are free. Detailed schedule on site. kfcenter.or.kr 02-2151-6500 Through September 12th

SEOUL Seoul Grand Sale Sponsored by the Seoul Metropolitan Government and Seoul Tourism Organization, the Seoul Grand Sale is an effort to increase Seoul’s reputation as a shopping destination. Last year, 810 stores participated, but this year a whopping 5000 will offer deals. Pick up the coupon book and “Big 20” card for the best bargains. seoulgrandsale.com 02-120 Through February 28th Children’s Nanta Activity at COEX Nanta is the popular non-verbal percussion show. Sessions held several times each day. COEX Atium Performance Hall near Samsung Stn. (line 2, ex. 6). Adults W13,000, children W20,000. i-pmc.co.kr September 17th – 19th Hanseong Baekje Culture Festival Long before Joseon and Goryeo was the kingdom of Baekje, and at this festival the culture and traditions of this ancient people come to life. Held at Peace Plaza at Olympic Park near Mongchontoseong Stn. (line 8, ex. 1). hanseong.songpa.go.kr 02-2147-2823 September 19th

Céilí: Traditional Irish Dance The Irish Association of Korea will be hosting the third Seoul Céili, an afternoon of traditional Irish music and dance with light refreshments. 100% craic guaranteed!

See article on p. XX for more. 2 pm - 6 pm. DaeSung Group Car Park, Insadong near Anguk Stn. (line 3). Free. iak.co.kr

Education & Conferences Every Thursday and Saturday Meeting of the Mindz Language Exchange Ever wanted to learn languages like English, Korean, Japanese, Chinese, Thai, Tagalog, Swahili or French? This free language exchange program is your chance to start. 7 – 9 pm. info@iconzmedia.com

52 | 10 Magazine September 2010

Through November 30th Korean War Exhibition The artifacts, pictures, and videos here tell the story of the Korean War and its effect on the following 60 years. War Memorial near Samgakji Stn. (line 4 & 2, ex. 12). www. koreanwar60.go.kr 02-709-3139 Through December 31st UNESCO World Heritages in Korea Learn more about the UNESCO intangible cultural heritages and world heritage sites located in Korea through this photo exhibit. Lotte World with access from inside Jamsil Stn. (line 2 & 8). lotteworld.com 02-411-2000 September 3rd - October 3rd Amusement Book Project An exhibit dedicated to the art of self-publishing.

Sangsang Madang in Hongdae. 1 – 10 pm. Free. 02-3141-7030 September 7th YEOL Lecture on Korean Ceramics Carolyn K. Choo, professor emeritus at Chung-ang University, will be delivering a lecture on science and art in traditional Korean ceramics culture.

Seminar room (2nd floor) at the Seoul Museum of History. 10:30 am - noon.

W10,000 per lecture. yeol400@paran. com 02-736-5868 September 8th RASKB Lecture: Korean Sounds in the World Imagination Many are familiar with the surge of interest in K-pop outside of Korea, but gugak (traditional Korean music) may be next. Professor John Seales from the University of California at Santa Cruz will share contemporary American composers’ attempts to combine Korean and Western musical elements in their work. W5,000 for non-members. raskb.com 02-763-9483 September 9th – 12th Seoul Gift Show The imported goods that are the focus of this expo range from cameras to clocks to collector items.

Trade visitors only. COEX. 10 am – 6 pm. seoulgiftshow.com 02-2698-0003 September 11th KOTESOL Seoul Workshop on Online Teaching Tools English teacher Carl Kwan will be leading a workshop titled “Click Away: Integrating Online Resource into English Lessons.”

Teachers will enjoy useful tips for enhancing their lessons with the internet and new media. Room 105 Injaeguan Center, Sookmyung Women’s University.

2:30 – 5 pm. kotesol.org September 12th – 13th Studying Abroad in Japan Expo Useful for those wanting to add another language to their skill set. SETEC. 10 am – 5 pm. 02-3452-5999 September 13th – 15th Korea Games Conference Experts and leaders in the field of games worldwide will be present at this expo to discuss trends and developments.

COEX. kgconf.com 02-3153-2782 September 15th – 18th Your Future Job Expo COEX. 10 am – 5 pm. Admission is free. yourfuture.co.kr 02-6000-1431 September 30th – October 3rd Educare Fall 2010 for Children Find the latest products and programs to aid your child’s development. COEX. 10 am – 6 pm. Adults W5,000, children W3,000. Preregister for free admission. educare.co.kr

Remodelling Expo and Heating and Air Expo SETEC. dong-afairs.co.kr 02-780-0366

person (3 people minimum) includes food, drinks, and guide. Thu – Sat night from 7-10 pm. dan@ongofood.com 02-3446-1607

Sport & Fitness

Korea Taste Tour Experience culture through cuisine! With your culinary guide, visit a Buddhist-inspired Korean restaurant, get a quick tour of Insadong eateries, stop by a teahouse, and enjoy rice wine and Korean bar food snacks.

W80,000 per person includes, food, drinks, and tour guide. Tours are usually Thu – Sun (3 people minimum) 12 – 3 pm. dan@ongofood.com 02-3446-1607

K-League Football League 4th Seoul vs Gwangju at 7pm 11th Seoul vs Daegu at 7pm at Seoul World Cup Stadium KBO Professional Baseball All games held at Jamsil Stadium, home of the Doosan Twins.

1st - 3rd vs SK at 6:30pm 4th/5th vs Kia at 5pm 8th vs Nexen at 6:30pm 11th/12th vs Lotte at 5pm All games held at Jamsil Stadium, home of the LG Twins.

9th vs Lotte at 6:30pm 14th vs Hanhwa at 6:30pm 16th/17th vs SK at 6:30pm 18th/19th vs Kia at 5pm All games held at Mokdong Stadium, home of the Nexen Heroes.

1st vs Samsung at 6:30pm 3rd vs LG at 6:30pm 9th vs Kia at 6:30pm 10th vs Lotte at 6:30pm 17th vs Doosan at 6:30pm 18th/19th vs Doosan at 5pm

Travel September 18th – 22nd Ulleungdo and Dokdo Trip This may be your only chance to visit this exotic and little-known corner of Korea.

Ulleungdo, a ferry ride away from ports on the East Sea, puts you within easy reach of the much-disputed islet of Dokdo. W369,000. Contact Adventure Korea at adventurekorea.com 018-242-5536

Dine & Drink Ongoing Korean Cooking Classes and Market Tour Learn authentic Korean cuisine in English from a Korean chef.

Classes held at the O’ngo Cooking Studio near Insadong (Nagwon Sangga). After class, tour the market for your ingredients. Classes include dakgalbi (red chili chicken), haemul pajeon (seafood pancake), bulgogi, bibimbap, and more. Mon – Fri 10 am and 2 pm (special classes on Sat). dan@ongofood.com 02-3446-1607 Korean Night Dining Tour Take a crash course on Korea’s late-night food and drinking culture.

Start at Kwangjang Market and continues to historic Jongno 3-ga where you can eat Korean BBQ, drink makgeolli (rice wine) and dine at a tent (pochamacha) restaurant. W80,000 per

Toque Diner’s Turkey Dinners Get your turkey fix with help from Toque Diner. Have a traditional turkey buffet set up at Toque Diner, or order half or whole turkeys with all of the fixings to enjoy at home. 02-794-3834 Through September 30th Absolute Deals at Between Score a Vanilla & Fruit Kiss and tapas plate for W40,000 (normally W55,000) or a bottle of Absolute and a tapas plate for W140,000 (normally W155,000). Between in Itaewon. After 10 pm. 02-795-6164 Discount on Voga Champagne at B1 From W100,000 down to W93,000. B1 in Itaewon by the Hamilton Hotel.

02-749-6164 August 31st - September 2nd H.O.T. Pepper Festival Pass the pepper! Yeongyang-gun’s spicy little treats make their way to the Seoul Plaza for some exciting events. festival.yyg.go.kr 054-682-2241 September 10th – 11th

Oktoberfest at the Grand Hilton Seoul Inspired by one of the world’s greatest festivals, Oktoberfest features the German band Erdinger, a buffet full of great German fare, and of course, unlimited beer. Grand Hilton Seoul. 7 pm. W120,000. grandhiltonseoul.com 02-2287-7456 September 26th – 30th Seoul Gourmet 2010 Celebrate the culinary creativity and diversity with some of the world’s greatest chefs. The highlight of the expo is the exclusive Star Chefs Dinners, in which chefs will prepare Korea-inspired feasts for a lucky few. seoulgourmet.org 02-3788-0877

Nightlife September 3rd - 4th A Night of Professional Comedy Stand Up Seoul brings professional comedian Ted Alexandro, veteran of David Letterman, Conan O’Brian, and Comedy Central Presents, to our humble corner of Asia. Comedy, a dinner buffet and one drink for W35,000.

Roofer’s Rooftop Bar (02-749-2970) in Itaewon at 9 pm. standupseoul@hotmail. com 010-3037-8774 September 4th Seductive Summer Shakedown Global-Asia Promotions bring you this adults-only party at Jane’s Groove in Hongdae. Sangsu Stn. (line 6, ex. 2).

W10,000. 010-8690-1135

SEOUL

November 21st Gi-jeong Son Marathon Gi-jeong Son, a gold medallist in the Berlin Olympic in 1936, had to compete on the Japanese team since Korea was occupied at the time. Full, 32k, hall, 10k, and 5k at Jamsil Sports Complex. 8 pm.

W40,000 – W5,000. Sign up by Oct 15th. sonkijung.co.kr 02-723-1666

10 Magazine Foreigner’s Day with FC Seoul

T

September 11th

he World Cup may be over, but more football fun may be closer than you think. At 10 Magazine Foreigner’s Day with FC Seoul, you get food and booze to go with admission to a match with one of the hottest football teams in Korea.

If the K-League were Major League Baseball, FC Seoul would be the Yankees. Boasting strong sides and an excellent winning record, they draw crowds and attract rising stars. Big names on the Korean national team such as Park Chu-Young (AS Monaco FC), Lee Chung-Yong (Bolton Wanderers FC), and Ki Sung-Yong (Celtic FC) all made their debut on FS Seoul. Meanwhile, after three years with Turkish coach Şenol Güneş at the helm, Portuguese Nelo Vingada took charge last year.

The football would be fun enough by itself, but FC Seoul and 10 Magazine are teaming up to add some re freshments to the action. At Foreigner’s Day (September 11th), you get admission to the match between FC Seoul and Daegu FC plus a beer and a hot dog for only W10,000.

For the tickets, stop

by Dillinger’s, Hollywood Grill, Pita Time, Rocky Mountain Tavern, Wolfhound, or Sam Ryan’s in Itaewon or Beer O’Clock, Chois’ Tacos, or Yaletown in Shinchon.

All games held at 7 pm near World Cup Stadium Stn. (line 6). fcseoul.com 10 Magazine September 2010 | 53

Image provided by FC Seoul

October 10th Seoul Hi Marathon Full, half, and 10k at the Seoul Plaza at 8 am. Sign up by Sep. 18th. hiseoulmarathon.com 02-361-1430

E DI T OR’ S PICK

SEOUL DIRECTORY WOW Corea Tour wowcoreatour.com

02-739-3337

Classes

Seoul Automobiles

bebop-guesthouse.com, 070-8261-4835 Kim’s Guesthouse Hongdae kimsguesthouse.com 02-337-9894 Namu Guesthouse Hongdae namugh.co.kr 070-8291-4878 Olympic Parktel Jamsil parktel.co.kr/english 02-410-2114 Seoul Backpackers Myeongdong seoulbackpackers.com 02-3672-1972

Pottery Classes at Yido Academy Gahoe-dong in Seoul. Fri 10 - 12 am. yidostyle@hanmail.net 02-744-0756 Salsa Lessons in English Top Bar near Apgujeong St. Call Crys at 010-4755-4728 Sanirang Alpine Networks This climbing service offers lessons, clinics, and guided tours. sanirang.net/about. html, info@sanirang.net

Foreigner Assistance

SEOUL

NEW CARS FOR LEASE Gyung Bok Agency

010-3524-8260 Gyung Bok Agency Take the wheel of a premium Hyundai with the Gyung Bok Agency’s lease program. 1-year, 2-year, and 3-year leases available.

921-1 Daechi-Dong, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul. Contact Chief Sales Manager Hank Jo at 010-3524-8260.

Insurance

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Call Byung at 010-3232-0625 or Email: byung625@gmail.com

Hotels/Accommodations

KoreaHotel.com Korea’s version of Expedia. koreahotel.com 4-5 Star Hotels Astoria 02-2268-7111 COEX InterContinental 02-3452-2500 Courtyard 02-2638-3000 Grand InterContinental 02-555-5656 JW Marriott 02-6282-6262 Millenium Hilton 02-753-7788 Renaissance 02-555-0501 Ritz-Carlton 02-3451-8000 Hostels Guest House Baenang Yongsan ghbaenang.com 010-9071-4641 Guesthouse Korea Jongno guesthouseinkorea.com 02-3674-2205 Bebop Guesthouse Hongdae

54 | 10 Magazine September 2010

Museums

Gahoe Museum gahoemuseum.org 02-741-0466 World Jewelry Museum wjmuseum.com 02-730-1610 Kimchi Field Museum kimchimuseum.co.kr 02-6002-6456 Kyung-in Museum of Fine Art Kyunginart.co.kr 02-733-4448 Leeum Samsung Museum of Art leeum.org 02-2014-6901 Museum of Korean Traditional Music ncktpa.go.kr 02-580-3130 National Folk Museum nfm.go.kr 02-3704-3114 National Museum of Korea museum.go.kr 02-2077-9000 National Palace Museum of Korea gogung.go.kr 02-3701-7500 Seoul Art Center sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Seoul Museum of Art seoulmoa.seoul.go.kr 02-120 Seoul National Science Museum ssm.go.kr 02-3668-2200 War Memorial warmemo.or.kr 02-709-3139 Transportation

International Taxi (English Speaking)

1644-2255 Jumbo Taxi Service (more expensive)

02-888-2000 Interactive Subway Map smrt.co.kr

Access Consciousness What if the life you imagined was actually possible?

Regular classes held in Seoul & around Korea. Contact Nate at 010-6285-6283 or nhkent@gmail.com Bellydance Lessons with Belynda Azhaar W20,000 per 90 minute session. azhaardance.com Bellydance Lessons with Eshe Morning, afternoon, and evening classes, plus Sunday classes at the Well Being Studio. navah@live.com Fine Art Class Myeongdong 7 -1 pm Fridays. cafe.daum.net/artd

02-771-2026 International Guides of Korea Courses in ice climbing, rock climbing and more. iguidekorea.com Jai Center for Yoga and Health jaicenter.co.kr 02-3443-9642

Studio-X-Fitness A expat-operated, personal and small group training studio. Highly-qualified foreign and Korean instructors dedicated to providing the most complete and optimized fitness experience. studio-x-fitness.com 02-794-3330 Suseonjae Meditation and Deep Breathing Classes jihye@suseonjae.org 019-201-5958 Wise-Up Workouts Lose weight and get lean in less than 30 days guaranteed? Author and creator of the No. 1 gym-free program is now in Korea. 1 to 1 service. Grab the book “Wise-Up Workouts� at www. wiseupworkouts.com 010-4998-8722 Medical Services

A Plus Dental aplusdental.co.kr

Jazz Rock Blues R&B Funk KB Bank

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SUBWAY LINE 4,7 ISU St.

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Leaders Music Academy Whether you’re interested in jazz, blues, R&B, or funk, the graduates of Berklee College of Music teaching at this academy can help you achieve your musical goals.

Lessons offered for voice, piano, guitar, bass, and drums. leadersmusic.com

02-6085-8727 / 010-5316-2331

Dr. Andrew Park r 6 4 /BUJPOBM #PBSE $IJSPQSBDUJD %PDUPS r $FSUJĂ FE *#5 r $FSUJĂ FE &YFSDJTF SFIBC Sin-nonhyun St. Exit #6

Travel Agencies

Cosmo.jin Tour cosmojin.com Fides Travel fidestravel.co.kr Unique Travel Itaewon uniquetravel.co.kr Xanadu Travel xanadu.co.kr

02-3442-7616

Subway Line 7 Kyobo bldg.

Center Plaza Bldg 5F,510

02-318-0345

Woori bank BurgerKing

02-755-5470

BodyShop

Gangnam St. Exit #6

Hannam Bridge

Samsung Fire and Marine Insurance Automobile and motorcycle insurance provided by one of Korea’s most reliable conglomerates. Also available; Life/ Annuities, Business/Fire, Supplemental Medical, Travel Insurance. 010-3232-0625

ATEK (Association for Teachers of English in Korea) atek.or.kr Seoul Dasan (City Info) 02-120 Seoul Global Center global.seoul.go.kr 02-1688-0120 Yeoksam English 02-3453-9038 Yeonnam Chinese 02-6406-8151 Seorae French 02-570-6009 Ichon Japanese 02-760-2018 Itaewon/Hannam English 02-796-2459

Subway Line 2

02-792-0606

(02) 533-5124

APPOINTMENT FREE consultation by appointment

02-795-7771

Korean Tours

www.seoulchiropracticinfo.com

Adventure Korea adventurekorea.com 018-242-5536 Korean Safari koreansafari.com 019-542-2955 O’ngo Culinary Tours Korean Food Tours and Cooking Classes in Seoul.

Tours and classes are taught by Korean food experts. Experience the culture through the cuisine. ongofood.com 010-6661-7769 Royal Asiatic Society Korea Branch raskb.com 02-763-9483 USO DMZ Tours affiliates.uso.org/korea 02-795-3028

Gangnam Chiro-Pilates Chiropractic & Pilates If you’re dealing with joint and muscle ailments, English-speaking chiropractic doctor Dr. Andrew Park offers the best treatments to restore balance to your body. Stop in for a free consultation if you have symptoms including neck pain, sore back, headaches, scoliosis, numbness, wrist pain, sports injuries (golf) etc. Seochodong 1307-7 Center Plaza 5F 510. seoulchiropracticinfo.com 02-533-5124 Hus Hu Dental & Skin Clinic hus-hu.com 02-519-8013

Plaisir Gourmand Do you want to learn how to make tasty Korean food? Plaisir Gourmand cooking studio is the perfect choice. A famous Korean chef offers an English-language cooking demonstration plus hands-on cooking and tasting. Located right in front of Gangnam Stn. Various class times available. blog.naver.com/plaisir_g 02-3482-7482

Islam Seoul Central Masjid

Jaseng Hospital of Oriental Medicine Are you suffering from back or neck pain? Visit the non-surgical spinal specialists. jaseng.net 02-3218-2167 Korea Counseling Psychological Association krcpa.or.kr 02-498-8293 Korea HIV/AIDS Prevention & Support Center khap.org 02-927-4322 Ra Dental Clinic 02-569-8745

02-794-7307

Protestant Gwanglim Church 02-2056-5732 International Lutheran 02-794-6274 Jubilee Church 02-569-2293 Kumnan Church 02-490-7000 Myungsung Presbyterian

02-440-9000 Onnuri Church 02-793-9686 Somang Presbyterian 02-512-9191 Seoul Union Church 02-333-7393 Yoido Full Gospel Church 02-782-4851 Yongsan Baptist Church 02-796-0284 Restaurants

American Chili King Itaewon Beefy burgers and chili served up by owner Kevin Cyr.

02-795-1303

All The Sports You Can Handle Under One Roof!

8 Giant Flat-Screen TVs – Not a Bad Seat in the House Mexican Mondays W1,000 Tacos*, Specials on Margaritas, Nachos & Tequila Tuesdays W500 BBQ Pork Ribs*

Wednesdays Sports Trivia Night

Thirsty Thursdays W1,500 OB Draft ‘til 10 pm Saturday & Sunday Build Your Own Brunch from 11 - 3 pm *with drink purchase (10-rib minimum)

Put Your Stomach Where Your Mouth Is...

Finish our 72 oz (2kg) Rib-eye Steak Challenge under an hour and Sam Ryan's Picks Up The Tab!

Business Hours

Mon – Fri: 4 pm ‘til Late Sat – Sun: 10:30 am ‘til Real Late t TBNSZBO DPN

Design your smile with a licensed American dentist.

COEX

Tufts Dental

Hyungdai Department Store

Building No. 437

Seolleung St.

Subway Line 2

Samseong St.

Posco Center

Tufts Dental Clinic www.tuftsdental.net (02) 553-7512 Tufts Dental Clinic ADA member Dr. Gina Sohn is a Tufts University graduate licensed in MA, CT, and NJ. Near COEX at the POSCO intersection. tuftsdental.net 02-553-7512 Radio

TBS eFM FM 101.3 American Forces Network

AM 1530 / FM 102.7 Religious

Buddhist Seoul International Zen Center seoulzen.org 02-900-4326 Vairocana International Buddhist Meditation Center 02-735-5347 Jetavana Meditation Center jetavanacenter@gmail.com 02-595-5115

Bonji Bistro Just behind Itaewon Hotel and under Gecko’s Garden, Bonji Bistro offers a terrific menu of salads, sandwiches, pastas and classic tapas along with an unbeatable bar. The floor-to-ceiling window door-walls open wide, making it the perfect place to be for their delicious weekend brunch. geckosterrace.com 02-795-9656 Gecko’s Terrace The original Itaewon foreigner hangout, with a comfortable atmosphere, delicious food including great sandwiches, salads and pasta, and English-speaking staff that know how to make cocktails and shots right. geckosterrace.com 02-749-9425

10 Magazine September 2010 | 55

SEOUL

Catholic Bomun 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Chunma 02-765-0870 Dongducheon 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Hannam International Church English, Italian, Spanish, French 02-793-2070 Hyewha-dong Catholic Church

02-764-0221 (press 6) Jinjob 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Keumchon 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Philippine Center Tagalog 02-765-0870 Pastral Center for Labor English, Vietnamese, Thai 02-924-2721 Salesio Labor Center Tagalog, Daelim 1 dong 02-765-0870 Sung-dong Social Welfare Center Tagalog 02-765-0870 Yoksam-dong Church 02-553-0801 Catholics in South Korea Facebook Group, Annamarie at sunshineamore25@gmail.wcom

SEOUL DIRECTORY Le Saint-Ex Itaewon Italian

02-795-2465

hits that craving for fajitas, chimichangas, tacos, burritos, enchiladas and even margaritas. ontheborder.co.kr Sinchon: 02-324-0682 COEX: 02-565-0682 Times Square: 02-2672-0682 Pancho’s Itaewon 02-792-4767 Taco Amigo Itaewon 02-749-5253 Tomatillo Grill Locations at Jonggak Stn., Samseong Stn., and Yeoksam Stn. tomatillo.co.kr 02-734-9225 Middle Eastern Istanbul Noksapyeong 02-796-0271 Marakech Nights Itaewon Terrific Middle Eastern cuisine from Rhiti Mostaffa, former chef for the Moroccan ambassador to Korea. 02-795-9441 Petra Itaewon 02-790-9441 Thai

SEOUL Gecko’s Garden Legendary for its gorgeous home-style atmosphere, Gecko’s Garden has now started offering a delicious buffet, with steaks and pasta made to order. Don’t worry; the tapas menu is also still alive and well. geckosterrace.com 02-790-0540

Hamilton Hotel

Itaewon St.

HOLLYWOOD GRILL (3rd floor) Police St.

Hollywood Grill The place for Premier League Football and other sports, Hollywood has a great menu of pizza, pasta and steaks along with darts, foosball, pool and Golden Tee. hollywoodgrill.co.kr 02-749-1659 Pancakes Original Story Itaewon Mon – Sat 9 am – 10 pm. 02-794-0508 Pita Time Haebangchon The salads, pitas and pizzas here provide a low-calorie, healthy meal. 11 am - 10 pm. pitatime.co.kr 02-790-8891 Suji’s Itaewon Great American fare in a New York-style bistro atmosphere. sujis.net 02-797-3698 Toque Itaewon 02-794-3834 Austrian Chef Meili Itaewon 02-797-3820 BRAZILIAN Copacabana Itaewon For only W29,000 you get all-you-can-eat of 7 different cuts of roasted meat and a tremendous Brazilian buffet. Make your reservations today!

02-796-1660 Bulgarian Zelen Itaewon 02-749-0600 Chinese Ho Lee Chow Serving up the best North American-style Chinatown cuisine in Korea since 1998, with 5 convenient locations in the greater Seoul area to serve you. holeechow.co.kr. Itaewon 02-793-0802, Apgujeong 02-514-1730 Jamshil 02-411-0688, Dogok 02-34614468, Bundang 02-711-9071 French La Cigale Monmartre Itaewon

02-796-1244

56 | 10 Magazine September 2010

Antonio’s Apgujeong Join chef Sebastiano Giangregorio for an authentic Italian culinary experience. Live Jazz performances: Tuesday–Saturday, starting at 7:30 pm and Sunday at 1 pm. 93-8 Cheongdam-dong Gangnamgu. antonios.kr 02-3443-4333 Fradia Gangnam Gaze out on a panoramic view of the Seoul skyline as you dine on choice Italian food at this cafe floating on the Han River. fradia.co.kr 02-3477-0033 La Bocca Itaewon We can’t decide whether it’s a cafe, pastry shop, deli, or wine bar, but what we are sure about is that the food is fresh and the taste is divine. labocca.co.kr 02-790-5907 Sortino’s Cucina Itaewon Classic Italian trattoria cuisine in a comfortable, homey atmosphere.

02-797-0488

Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong 02-790-0776 Villa Sortino’s Itaewon An incredible Tuscan Villa interior matches perfectly with some delicately prepared Italian flavors. Just across from the Itaewon fire station.

02-553-900 korean Bulgogi Brothers Delicious Koreanstyle barbecue at locations throughout Seoul including Gangnam, Myeongdong (02-319-3351), Seoul Station, and Times Square. 11:30 am - 10 pm. bulgogibros.com Pulhyanggi Gangnam A tasty concoction of traditional Korean dishes and a contemporary slow-food sensibility, plus performances in the evenings. Close to COEX. 11 am – 10 pm. pulhyanggi.co.kr 02-539-3390 Mexican Amigos Itaewon 02-795-9711 On the Border The #1 American chain

116-15 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu.

3alleypub.com 02-749-3336

B1 Itaewon One of the most hopping bars in Itaewon on any given night, with guest DJs and a good vibe.

7 pm - 3 am.

02-749-6164 Bar Rouge Itaewon Luxurious wine and tapas bar in the basement of the JW Marriot in Gangnam. Happy hour Tue - Thu 6 - 9 pm.

02-6282-6763

46//: 5&33"$& t .0%&3/ "4*"/ $6*4*/& 8*/& $0$,5"*-4 t 46/%": .*.04" #36/$) Buddha’s Belly Itaewon A lounge atmosphere with full bar and cocktails along with great authentic Thai food.

02-796-9330 Eat Me Itaewon Thai fusion dining and lounge, late night kitchen in Itaewon.

Relax in the intimate yet casual dining area and outside patio. Sophisticated atmosphere is sure to please.

070-7624-3149 My Thai Itaewon 02-794-8090 Thai Orchid Itaewon 02-517-1135 Thai Garden Itaewon 02-792-8836

Berlin Noksapyeong Combining a restaurant, cafe and lounge, Berlin boasts a varied menu, plus wines and all types of music. Noksapyeong St. (line 6). 457-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. awakeinseoul@gmail.com 02-749-0903

Cafes

Caribou Coffee Popular in America, Caribou Coffee has expanded to Korea with locations at Ewha University, Sinchon, Yangjae, and Incheon Airport.

Support fair trade with the Rainforest Alliance Certified coffee sold here. cariboukorea.co.kr 02-3461-5680 Bars/Lounges/Pubs

W i n e B ars Dulce Y Suave Garosugil Stop by this classy Sinsa-dong wine bar for an extensive wine list that won’t break your budget. 5 pm - 3 am. club.cyworld.com/ dulceysuave.

02-515-6750 Vin Ga Apgujeong Immaculate service and a subdued atmosphere make this the wine bar of choice for dinner parties and business meetings. Podo Plaza building near Apgujeong St. podoplaza.co.kr 02-516-1761 Lounges / PUBS 3 Alley Pub Itaewon Rub shoulders with long-term Seoul expats and try your hands at darts or pool in this comfortable foreigner-owned pub.

Between Itaewon This multi-level lounge serves contemporary Italian and Spanish mains, lunch, brunch and tapas in a sophisticated atmosphere with live DJs and a spacious terrace. 124-7 Yongsangu, Itaewon-dong.

02-795-6164 Bliss Itaewon Fresh beats by DJ Shine and a reasonably priced menu.

Itaewon. 4 pm – 4 am.

02-798-1125 BricX Hongdae, Itaewon Chill out at either of BricX’s two locations.

Hongdae 6 pm – 5 am, 마포구 서교동 409-1, B1, 02-3141-5571. Itaewon 7 pm – 5 am, 용산구 이태원동 119-10, B1, bricx.com 02-795-5572 The Bungalow Itaewon This quirky beach-themed bar has sand on the floor, swinging chairs, and candle-lit rooms.

02-793-2344 Coffee Bar K Cheongdam-dong A Japanese franchise, they may just have the best bartenders in town. Mon – Sat 6 pm - 2 am.

02-516-1970

To inquire about getting a logobox for your business, email to us at marketing@10magazine.asia

Live Music

InterContinental Hotel Oakwood Premier Woori Bank

SEOUL

Jazz All That Jazz Itaewon 02-795-5701 Cheonnyeondongando (천년동안도) Daehangno (Hyehwa St. Line4) chunnyun.com 02-743-5555 Club Evans Hongdae clubevans.com 02-337-8361 Club Palm Hongdae clubpalm.co.kr 02-336-9016 Once in a Blue Moon Apgujeong onceinabluemoon.co.kr 02-549-5490

COEX

Dillinger’s A classic-styled bar with seven beers on tap, great food and drink specials. Come enjoy our large flatscreen TVs, dartboards and Wii games. A great atmosphere for you and your friends.

02-793-7232 Ghetto Vox Itaewon Itaewon’s first art and music space. 용산구 이태원동 132-5 (3rd floor) Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. ghettovox.com 010-3370-2979 Jane’s Groove Hongdae A good place to relax over a drink. 7:30 pm – 3 am.

Closed Mon. janesgroove@gmail.com

02-336-1664 Mike’s Cabin Sinchon This Western bar has a casual atmosphere and holds special events. Near the Yonsei University front gate.

02-325-7808 Monghwan Sinchon Come for the nice décor, live art and music events, and the signature cocktail soju. club. cyworld.com/monghwan 02-325-6218 Monkey Beach Apgujeong Thailand is just a subway ride away if you head to Monkey Beach. 7:30 pm – 5 am.

02-548-7930 Mix Lounge Garosu-gil It may look like a white greenhouse, but it’s actually a bar serving killer mojitos, lychee martinis and more. 6 pm – 3 am.

Closed Sun. 011-9650-7055 Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong Great home-style Italian cuisine with late night cocktail lounge.

02-790-0776 Platoon Kunsthalle Apgujeong Showcasing underground artists and a fine selection of cutting-edge performances. 11 am – 1 am. Closed Sun. 97-22 Gangnam-gu, Nonhyeondong. kunsthalle.com 02-3447-1191 Rocky Mountain Tavern Itaewon Canadians feel right at home with all the hockey jerseys hanging on the walls and great live music and events, along with some of the best buffalo wings in Korea.

Don’t miss the Stand Up Seoul comedy night the first Thursday of each month. rockymountaintavern.com 010-5775-2327 Roofers Itaewon Come hang out in a warm, friendly atmosphere. Sample the mouthwatering menu, relax on the spacious rooftop and enjoy numerous expat events. Facebook: Roofers Rooftop Bar. 02-749-2970 Sam Ryan’s Itaewon This newcomer to the Itaewon scene offers sports fans eight flat screens throughout the bar along with the meanest plate of pork ribs to be found in Seoul. samryans.com 02-749-7933 Scrooge Pub/Dicken’s Lounge Itaewon A great little sports bar with pool, darts, delicious food and plenty of English-speaking staff. 02-797-8201 Seventy Four Cheongdam-dong A beautiful date spot featuring exotic drinks such as cheese martinis, banana mojitos and cuba libres.

7 pm – 4 am.

02-542-7412 So Much More Apgujeong Combining a hip interior design with the hottest music and the coolest drinks.

Noon - 2 am. blog.naver.com/ so_much_more 02-3447-7890

Tony’s Aussie Shop Itaewon Authentic Australian food and beer. Open mic night held every Wednesday 8 pm – 11 pm. 455-35 Itaewon-dong Yongsangu. writers.meetup.com/779

010-460-54326 Watts on Tap Sinchon Check out the parties, language exchange nights, and live music nights. 6 pm – 2 am. club.cyworld. nate.com/wattsontap 02-3142-8439 Wolfhound Itaewon Terrific Irish/British classic food in a true Irish Pub atmosphere, including shepherd’s pie, toad in a hole, fish n’ chips, bangers n’ mash along with Guinness and Kilkenny on draft. wolfhoundpub.com 02-749-7971

Hyundai Department Store

Teheranno

LINE Line 22 Samseong Stn.

Tokyo Jazz Authentic jazz music performed Mon-Sat, 9:30 pm - 12:30 am by European, American, and Korean musicians. Two minute’s walking distance from the COEX and Grand InterContinental Hotels. 153-44 Samsung-dong.

02-3453-4472 Rock Freebird Hongdae cafe.navercom/ clubfreebird 02-335-4576 Jammers Hongdae jammers.co.kr 02- 325-3914 Just Blues Apgujeong justblues.co.kr 02-542-4788 SoundHolic Hongdae cafe.daum.net/ SoundHolic 02-3142-4233 Clubs

Answer Cheongdam-dong After a shortlived stint as gala restaurant Le Nuit Blanche, the club we all know and love is back. clubanswer.co.kr 02-514-4311 Ben @Blue Spirit Hongdae Great Japanese curry during the day and soju cocktails at night. Hit up the weekend parties. 360-18 SeokyoDong, Mapo-Gu. 02-3142-5301 Eden Gangnam New mega club with top DJs, sizzling sound, and model nights. 역삼동 602 Yeoksam-dong,

10 Magazine September 2010 | 57

SEOUL DIRECTORY

SEOUL

Gangnam-gu, Ritz Carlton Hotel. eden-club.co.kr 010-9913-3919 Function Itaewon The boutique club hidden in the fancy Macaroni Market restaurant. Tue, Wed, Thu 6 pm – 2:30 am; Fri and Sat 6 pm-3:30 am. 737-50 Hannnam1-dong Yongsan-gu.

02-749-9181 Heaven Gangnam The newest member of Seoul’s club scene combines top-notch technology with divine DJs spinning house and electro beats.

W30,000 general admission, W40,000 for after club hours. Near Yeoksam St. clubheaven.co.kr 02-3444-4997 J.J. Mahoney’s The drinks don’t come cheap, but this nightclub at the Grand Hyatt is a favorite with the over-30s crowd. 747-7 Hannam 2-dong. seoul.grand.hyatt.com 02-797-1234 Koobar @Blue Spirit Apgujeong Hip music for a classy crowd. 664-11 Shinsadong, Gangnam-gu.

02-518-5115 M2 Hongdae This long-running club is party central for college students. Sun – Thu 8 pm – 4 am, Fri and Sat 7:30 pm – 6 am. Cover starts at W10,000.

367-11 Seogyo-dong Mapo-gu. ohoo.net/m2 02-3143-7573 Mansion Hongdae This new club pumps out sizzling house, electro, and nu-disco grooves, bringing in quality acts like Roni Size and Goldie. mansionseoul@ gmail.com 02-3143-4037 Mass Gangnam The dance club for the “masses.” 9 pm – 6 am. Sun – Thu W15,000, Fri and Sat W20,000. clubmass.net 02-599-3165 NB Hongdae, Gangnam Supposedly the first hip-hop club in Korea, it has one bar, two stages, and a packed crowd. clubnb.com 02-326-1716 Pulse Itaewon This chilled-out club pumps out danceable tunes in all genres of electronic music until sunrise.

Everyday 8 pm – 7 am. Fri W10,000, Sat W15,000.

02-792-6662 Q-vo Hongdae A popular hip hop club with strobes pulsing above the dance floor. Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun 8 pm – 4 am and Wed, Fri, Sat 8 pm – 6:30 am.

W10,000 - W15,000. 121-210 Ohoo B/ D 367-1 Seogyo Dong. clubqvo.co.kr 02-3143-7573 Saab Hongdae Fashion-conscious twenty-somethings congregate here for a wide variety of music styles.

Weekdays 6 pm – 4 am, weekends 6 pm – 6 am. W10,000 cover on weekends.

02-324-6929 Volume Itaewon A true “music lovers” club, Volume is found in the basement of Crown Hotel. Fri and Sat 9 pm - 6 am. W15,000 - W30,000. Crown Hotel B1 clubvolume.com 1544-2635 Woo Bar Check out the split-level lobby lounge for cool music and exclusive parties. No cover charge. 21 Gwangjang-dong wseoul.com 02-465-2222

Salvation Army Thrift Store Donate your used goods or shop at the stores.

All proceeds support the Adult Rehabilitation Center. nanumistore.org 02-365-7084 Beauty

English-speaking Staff High light and Low light Cutting Styling Hair spa

Hongik Univ.

Line 2 Hongdae St.

Coffee Bean

Samgeori Pocha

Record Mom & Shop Dad

Tony&Guy Whether it’s a cut, highlight, low light, or hair spa that you want, you’re guaranteed to get professional service from the English-speaking stylists at Toni & Guy. Near Hongik University.

02-338-2773 Florists

Oxana Garden You are invited to the botanical life. Enjoy the fresh aroma and the cozy environment these plants will bring to your home. Find the perfect flower among the various options on sale here. Hannam St. (Jungang line). oxanagarden.com 02-798-6787 Overseas Accommodation

Massage

Healing Hands Massage Studio healinghands.co.kr 070-7504-8090 Community

Brazilians in Seoul Also known as Brasileiros em Seul, this group meets up on the 3rd Tuesday of each month. alocoreia@gmail.com 010-9631-2133 Republicans Abroad Monthly meetings, events, and lectures for supporters of the USA Republican Party. kmohay@ hotmail.com 010-8688-9810 Charity

Salvation Army Thrift Store Donate your used goods or shop at the stores.

All proceeds support the Adult Rehabilitation Center. nanumistore.org 02-365-7084

58 | 10 Magazine September 2010

Villa Orchid

Bali

Bali Orchid Villa Available for short or long term rental. Check website and then e-mail or call for exclusive Korea-only low rates. villaorchidbali. com email: vittoriaco@hotmail.com 010-7307-6555

GANGWON CALENDAR Art September 9th – 12th Wonju Hanji Cultural Festival Learn more about Hanji, the craft-friendly traditional Korean paper, at this festival in Wonju. Special events include an awards ceremony for the Korean Hanji Contest and a Hanji Fashion Show On the 9th at 7:30 pm. wjhanji.co.kr 033-766-1366

Theater & Dance September 1st – 5th Chuncheon International Theater Festival With theater groups from Poland, Japan, Russia, and the Czech Republic. Located at the Chuncheon Art Stage across from City Hall. W10,000 – W30,000. citf.or.kr 033-241-4345

Concerts

September 9th Ensemble Ditto: Bohemian The classical group Ensemble Ditto featuring violist Richard “Yongjae” O’Neill will be playing Brahms’ Piano Quartet no. 1 in G Minor and Schubert’s Piano Quintet in A Major. Chuncheon Culture and Arts Center. 7:30 pm. W50,000 – W70,000. ccac.or.kr 033-251-3474

Film September 2nd – 4th Chuncheon Animation Forum Amateur animators and industry professionals will enjoy a variety of events including the Asian Animation Summit, 3D Film Festival, and a conference on industry support. Anitown in Chuncheon. caf21.org 033-425-6100

Family & Community September 1st – 5th Gangwon Gamyeong Festival Named for Gamyeong, the capital of Gangwon during the Joseon Dynasty, this festival includes offerings made to the mountain gods and other traditional activities. Ilsan-dong in Wonju. gamyeong.com 033-744-1838 September 3rd – 12th Hyoseok Culture Festival Hyo-seok Lee, author of the short story “When Buckwheat Flowers Bloom,” is the most famous son of Bongpyeong-myeon in Pyeongchang-gun. hyoseok.com 033-335-2323

Sport & Fitness Through September 5th World Leisure Congress and Leisure Games 15,000 athletes from 50 countries compete in the first-ever World Leisure Games, with sports including inline marathon, wakeboard, paragliding, and billiards. Songam Sports Town. worldleisure2010.org 033-250-4204 October 24th Chuncheon Marathon Full marathon to begin near Soyang Lake in Chuncheon at 10 am. W40,000.

Register ASAP. marathon.chosun.com 02-724-6333

Dine & Drink Through September 5th Chuncheon Dakgalbi Makguksu Festival With thousands of athletes in Chuncheon for the World Leisure Congress and Games, the city is pulling out all the stops with this festival based on its most famous foods, dakgalbi and makguksu. mdfestival.com 033-250-4347 September 24th – 28th Yangyang “Songi” Pine Mushroom Festival For the full story on this festival, see Taste of Korea on p. 16. song-i.yangyang.go.kr

G angwon Discov ery

The Charming Coast of Gangwon Province

C

W o rds and s h ot s b y C h ar i t y Yo r o

atching some rays shouldn’t be your only reason for heading to the Gangwon coast this season.

Sure, it’s a great place to relax, but there are also sights to be seen and coastal cuisine to be had. Intrigued but don’t know where to start? Here are some suggestions for a weekend trip:

gangwon PROVINCE

GANGWON

September 8th – 12th Wonju Tattoo: Harmony Through Music You’re not likely to see many tattoos here, as this festival actually refers to performances by military bands.

Hear twelve Koreans bands and seven bands from other countries. Wonju Tattoo Concert Hall. W1,000 – W5,000. wonjutattoo.com 033-763-5981

K-League Football 4th Gangwon vs Suwon at Gangreung Stadium 7pm 26th Gangwon vs Seongnam at Chuncheon Stadium 3pm

Foreigner Assistance Chuncheon Online Info tour.chuncheon.go.kr/eng

Libraries Chuncheon City Library iccl.or.kr 033-254-3887 Taebaek Municipal Library tbmlib.or.kr 033-550-2755

Amusement Parks Dreamland Amusement Park With a large zoo and plenty of rides, there’s lots of fun to be found at this park at Chiak Mountain near Wonju. W20,000 for adults, W18,000 for children. mydreamland.co.kr 033-732-5800

Museums Arari Puppet House Jeongseon-gun arari.net 033-563-9667 Bangsan Porcelain Museum Yanggu-gun bangsanm.or.kr 033-480-2664 Byeolmaru Observatory Yeongwol-gun yao.or.kr 033-374-7460 Chuncheon Animation Museum animationmuseum.com 033-245-6444 Chuncheon Makguksu Museum makguksumuseum.com 033-250-4134 Forest Art Museum Hoengseong-gun jjsoup.com 033-342-6833 Haslla Art World Gangneung haslla.kr 033-644-9411 Ilhyeon Art Museum Yangyang-gun ilhyunmuseum.or.kr 033-670-8450 Institute of Traditional Korean Cooking Pyeongchang-gun ktfce.com/ktfce.pdf 033-333-1012 Joseon Folk Painting Museum Yeongwol-gun minhwa.co.kr 033-375-6100 Marisorigol Musical Instrument Museum Hongcheon-gun great.go.kr 033-430-2016 Mooee Arts Center Pyeongchang-gun mooee.co.kr 033-335-6700 Sokbong Ceramic Museum Sokcho dogong.net 033-638-7711 Sokcho Museum Sokcho sokchomuse.go.kr 033-639-2977 Teddy Bear Farm Sokcho teddyfarm.net 033-636-3680

Off the Beaten (Beach) Path

An hour north of Sokcho is a little town called Geojin, where the beaches are beautiful and the people less pervasive. Enjoy a leisurely hike to the town’s lighthouse, an afternoon at the beachside aquarium, or even a visit to the DMZ. With direct buses to and from Sokcho, you can still have your squid sundae and eat it too.

Take the Midnight Train

Not much rivals a sunrise at the beach, especially if it’s at the famed Jeongdong jin beach. The four-and-a-half hour train ride to the coast departs around midnight from Wonju. And don’t worry—the mart at the train station has plenty of Hite on demand to make the perfect sunrise complete.

It’s Not a Real Beach If There Ain’t No Burgers

After you’ve had enough of the sun and sand at Gangneung’s Anmuk Beach, catch a cab downtown for the best burger and fries joint this side of Gangwon. In a city that also boasts Kraze and Ashley’s, the local Sim’s Burgers is Gangneung’s hidden gem you must discover for yourself.

Medical Services Gangwon National University Hospital Chuncheon knuh.or.kr/html/index.asp

033-258-2000 Gangnam Hospital Chuncheon ekangnam.co.kr 033-240-7000 Hyundai Animal Clinic Chuncheon dog7582.co.kr 033-256-7582 Ye Dental Clinic Chuncheon English-speaking service available. ccye.co.kr 033-262-2078

10 Magazine September 2010 | 59

Roy Ascott: Mobile Art - La Plissure du Texte 2 (screenshot Elif Ayiter), 2010

E DI T OR’ S PICK

Art September 1st – 30th

Incheon International Digital Art Festival It’s only appropriate that you should visit the city of the future to experience the art of the future. And at the Incheon Digital Art Festial (INDAF) in Songdo, Korea’s first international city, art is experienced and not only viewed. You might even say that the artwork here is not as much on display as it is in operation, and it demands the viewer’s participation to complete its function. The DIY Rock Band piece allows visitors to make their own music, much as in the Rock Band video game. Find works like this that hover on the border of art and technology in sections including Mobile Art, BLUR, Tomorrow Public Art, and Nine Scenery. Guests can also take part in a number of conferences and workshops. Step into the art of tomorrow at Tomorrow City and Songdo Convensia near University of Incheon Stn. (Incheon line, ex. 4). indaf.org 032-210-4045 Theater & Dance September 9th – 12th

Mr. Qwirk

Incheon International Clown Mime Festival

Probably few will be surprised to find that “Clown mime” is exactly as it sounds: clowns doing mime. What’s more surprising is the delightful group of entertainers assembled for this festival, now in its 15th year. Along with the Clownmime team from Korea, Djuggledy from Germany, Fire Fingers from Israel, Duo Cappuchino from Russia, Mr. Qwirk from New Zealand, Acrobuffos from America, and Yui from Japan bring you laughs from around the world. The “mime” part of the perform a nc e me a n s t he r e’s no talking, so all communication comes in the form of non-verbal humor. Spectators will enjoy the journey to the strange and hilarious world of clown mimes. Performances are scheduled at the Little Theater Dolche, Incheon Dohobu Office (dohobu. org), Bupyeong Culture Love Community (bpcl.or.kr), and the Bupyeong Art Center (bpart.kr). For a detailed schedule, refer to the website. Tickets are W20,000 for adults and W10,000 for students. clownmime.com 032-772-7361

cable ties and plastic tubes to create massive skeleton-like structures that use the power of the wind to walk Through September 5th by themselves. Gwacheon National Color x Art x Play x 2 This familyScience Museum, Seoul Grand Park St. friendly exhibit teaches kids about art (line 4, exit 5). 9:30 am – 8:30 pm. Adults through play. Oulim Nuri Arts W13,000 and students Center in Goyang. Wondang W8,000. theojansen.co.kr VENUES St. (line 3, ex. 4). Tue - Thu, 1566-0329 Aram Nuri Arts Center Sun 10 am - 6 pm, Fri - Sat 10 Goyang. Jeongbalsan Stn. Through October 31st am - 8 pm. W5,000 - W6,000. artgy.or.kr 1577-7766 Jangheung Art Market: 031-960-9730 Incheon Culture and Arts JAM Center Arts Center Stn. Through September 19th This innovative new art art.incheon.go.kr Matching Point market offers original 032-427-8401 Just in time for the museum’s paintings, pictures, crafts, National Museum of 10th anniversary, this exhibit and objects d’art for viewing Contemporary Art examines trends in art today. and buying. Jangheung Seoul Grand Park St. Yeong-eun Museum of Art Park in Yangju. Held Weekdays 10 am – 5 pm, Contemporary Art in Gwangju weekends 10 am – 8 pm, on weekends and public closed Mon. Free.

(Gyeonggi). 10 am – 6 pm. holidays. 11 am – 6 pm. moca.go.kr 02-2188-6000 Adults W5,000, students artpark.co.kr 031-877-0500 Seongnam Arts Center W3,000, children W4,000.

Through December 26th near exit 1 of Imae St. on youngeunmuseum.org Forgotten War, Divided the Bundang line.

031-761-0137 snart.or.kr 031-783-8000 Country This collection Through September 26th shows you the bloody Painters Who Had to Leave Home scenes of war through the eyes of Commemorating the 60th anniversary Korean artists. National Museum of of the Korean War with works by artists Contemporary Art in Gwacheon of the time. Aram Nuri Arts Center in September 11th Goyang. W3,000 - W5,000 Rhythm and Art in ROK for Bucheon Through September 30th 3 Live music, prizes, poker, and art, and all to raise money for the Rodam Tree House, a charity for elderly Koreans (koreacare.org). Rhythm and Booze in Bucheon. 4 – 8 pm. 032-323-0161

Art

Lee, Heung-duk; Buddha and Jesus Come to Seoul, 1998 Oil

Collection Highlights With 300 pieces by more than 200 Korean artists including luminaries Su-geun Park and Jung-seop Lee, this exhibit provides newcomers with a perfect introduction to the world of Korean art. National Museum of Contemporary Art in Gwacheon. Free

September 13th – 15th Winning Entries in the G Design Fair A contest for high school students aspiring to be designers. KINTEX in Goyang, Daehwa St. (line 3), ex. 2. gdesignfair.org 031-259-6151 September 15th – 19th ICC & BICOF ICC (International Comic Artist Conference) and BICOF (Bucheon International Comic Festival) are both taking place at the Korea Animation Institute in Bucheon. bicof.com 032-661-3745

Through October 3rd In the Shade of Language: KoreanSpanish Exchange Exhibit Featuring works on loan from the Barcelona Contemporary Art Museum by artists such as Antoni Tapies and Joan Jonas. National Museum of Contemporary Art in Gwacheon. Adults W5,000, minors W2,500

September 18th – 19th Lake Comic Festival Get a closer look at the comic book and animation subculture that exists among Korean youth today at Lake Park in Ilsan and the convention center there. lcf.kr

Though October 14th John Moores Contemporary Painting Prize Show The thirty artists displayed here represented some of the finest English painters working today.

Seongnam Arts Center. Adults W4,000, teens W3,000, children W2,000. Dark Mondays

September 1st – 19th The Last Empress: the Musical Korea’s first musical, which debuted in 1995, tells the story of Empress Myeongseong, assassinated by the Japanese in 1895. Tue & Wed 11:30 am, Thu & Fri 8 pm, Sat 3 & 7:30 pm, Sun 3 pm. Dark Mon. 2 ½ hours. W30,000 – W90,000. Seongnam Arts Center

Through October 17th

Animaris Percipiere Primus 10 x 2.7 x 2m

Theo Jansen “Animals Modular” Exhibition Sometimes referred to as the Leonardo da Vinci of the 21st century, Dutch artist-engineer Jansen uses simple ingredients like

Theater & Dance

September 11th - 12th Peterpan: The Musical Oulim Nuri Arts Center in Goyang.

Wondang St. (line 3, ex. 4). Sat 11 am, 2 & 5 pm, Sun 11 am & 2:30 pm. W40,000 – W50,000. artgy.or.kr 1577-7766 September 25th – October 3rd Miss Saigon: The Musical Incheon Culture and Arts Center.

Weekdays 8 pm, Saturday 2 & 7 pm, Sun 1 & 6 pm. Dark Mon. W20,000 – W80,000 September 29th – October 3rd Gwacheon Hanmadang Festival Get a taste of traditional Korean performances in Gwacheon just south of Seoul. gcfest.or.kr

GYEONGGI CALENDAR Nobody Passes Perfectly, 2009 Dir. Saskia Bisp Denmark, 43 min

E DI T OR’ S PICK

of the Namsadang traveling performers.

For five days, Anseong Riverside Park will be transformed into a 19th century old market. eng.baudeogi.com 031-676-4601

Education & Conferences Through December 31st The Bible Expo The Good Book is the theme of the art, activities, and exhibits displayed in the spacious Songdo Central Park. Outside of Central Park Stn. (Incheon line 1, ex. 4). W15,000 at the door, W13,500 in advance. bibleexpo2010.com 02-541-1100 September 28th – October 12th

Film September 9th – 13th

DMZ Korean Documentary Festival

Concerts September 3rd Friday Arts Stage: Free Jazz Concert Outside stage at the Incheon Culture and Arts Center. 7 pm.

032-420-2732 September 4th Junge Muenchner Philharmonie The Young Philharmonic Orchestra of Munich will play Beethoven’s Egmont Overture, Saint-Saëns’ Cello Concerto No. 1, Dvorak’s New World Symphony No. 9, and others. Aram Nuri Arts Center in Goyang. 7 pm. W20,000 – W70,000 September 10th Incheon Philharmonic Orchestra: Fall Concert With Tchaikovsky’s Romeo and Juliet, Saint-Saëns’ Piano Concerto No. 2, and Dvorak’s Symphony No. 7. Incheon Culture and Arts Center. 7:30 pm.

W5,000 – W10,000. 1588-2341 September 12th Junge Muenchner Philharmonie Performing Beethoven’s Egmont Overture, Triple Concert and Dvorak’s Symphony No. 9. Seongnam Arts Center. W20,000 – W70,000 September 14th From the Baroque to the Present In addition to Bach’s Concerto No. 1 in A Minor and Haydn’s Trumpet Concerto in Eb Major, classical string group i-Sinfonietta will perform three original compositions dedicated to Incheon and illustrated by images of the city on the screen above the stage. Incheon

Culture and Arts Center. 7:30 pm.

Adults W15,000, students W10,000.

032-834-1055 September 15th Coffee Concert with the Mostly Philharmonic Orchestra Come to this concert for a performance of some of Mozart’s most beloved symphonies. Incheon Culture and Arts Center. 2 pm. W10,000 September 16th Matinee Concert Take an imaginary journey to England and North Europe with pieces by Elgar and Grieg.

Seongnam Arts Center. 11 am. W24,000

Film Through September 11th Italian Film & Art Festival Film screenings and an art exhibit at the Songdo Dio Art Center (dioartcenter.com) in Incheon give you a chance to immerse yourself in contemporary Italian culture. ifaf.co.kr

Family & Community Ongoing Saturday Performance at Hwaseong Head down to Hwaseong Castle in Suwon for court dancing, folk music, tight-rope walking, and more. Every Saturday at 2 pm. hs.suwon.ne.kr 031-251-4435 September 7th – 12th Anseong Namsadang Baudeogi Festival This festival refers to Baudeogi, a famous and talented leader

Religious Services

Grace & Truth Church Anyang, Ansan, and Suwon Sunday 9:30 am, 11 am, 1 pm, grace-truth.org 031-443-3731 Dongsan Church Ansan Sunday 11:30 am, 010-2910-7809 Museums

Central America Culture Center Goyang. latina.or.kr 031-962-7171 Elvis Presley Memorial Hall Paju paju.go.kr 031-948-3358 Face Museum Gwangju (Gyeonggi Province). visagej.org, 031-765-3522 Korean Lamp (Deung-Jan) Museum Yongin deungjan.or.kr/eng 031-334-0797 Waltz & Dr. Mahn Coffee Museum Namyangju wndcof.com 031-576-6051 Transportation

Bucheon World Intangible Cultural Heritage Expo If you enjoy colorful costumes, traditional dances, and artifacts from times past, this cultural expo will be right up your alley. The Bucheon Video Culture Complex. bucheonexpo.org 032-625-8320 September 30th – October 1st Incheon Investment Promotion Fair Songdo Convensia in Incheon.

Incheon University Stn. (Incheon line 1). songdoconvensia.com 032-210-1114

Sports & Fitness September 11th – 12th Yongin Cyber Festival This e-sports event began 10 years ago—which happens to be about when Starcraft was released. Events include a robot tournament, a science fair, and lots and lots of video games. The Yongin Public Gymnasium. ycf.or.kr 1577-1122

International Taxi (English speaking)

1644-2255 Jumbo Taxi Service (more expensive) 02-888-2000 Radio

US Armed Forces Network Dongducheon AM 1197/FM 88.3 Pyongtaek AM 1440/FM 88.3 Songtan AM 1359/FM 88.5 Uijeongbu AM 1161/FM 88.5 Restaurants

La Mia Cucina Ilsan The kitchen is always open at this English-friendly Italian pub with great outdoor seating all set for the summer months. 7 pm – 4 am. 010-2327-8882 First Nepal Restaurant Incheon . firstnepal.com 032-525-8771 Bars/Lounges/Pubs

The Park Bucheon 010-3136-0153 Rhythm & Blues Bucheon 032-323-0161 Frog and Toad Ilsan 010-9950-7399 West Island Ilsan 031-917-2225

October 10th Osan Doksan Castle Half Marathon 4.2k (W10,000), 10k (W20,000), and half (W30,000) to depart from Osan Sports Complex at 8 am. Sign up by September 5th. emarathon.or.kr K-League Football 1st Seongnam vs Suwon at Tancheon Stadium 7:30pm 4th Incheon vs Busan at Incheon World Cup Stadium 7pm 11th Suwon vs Jeju at Suwon World Cup Stadium 7:30pm 18th Seongnam vs Jeju at Tancheon Stadium 7pm 18th Suwon vs Gyeongnam at Suwon World Cup Stadium 7:30pm 26th Incheon vs Jeonbuk at Incheon World Cup Stadium 3pm KBO Professional Baseball All games held at Munhak Stadium, home of the SK Wyverns.

4th vs LG at 6:30pm 5th vs Hanhwa at 5pm 7th vs Dusan at 6:30pm 8th vs Hanhwa at 6:30pm 12th vs Kia at 5pm

Dine & Drink September 19th - 20th Gimpo Grape Festival No grapes of wrath here, or sour grapes for that matter. Just round purple goodness.

Bukbyeon Public Parking Garage in Gimpo. tour.gimpo.go.kr 031-980-5097

Jukjeon Gecko’s Yongin Bundang and Yongin expats should be ecstatic to know that the famous Gecko’s chain is expanding south. Near the Shinsegye department store. geckosterrace.com

031-262-9974 Clubs

Club Psycho Anyang bcmusicworld.com

010-7754-0409

10 Magazine September 2010 | 61

GYEONGGI

There’s nowhere else in the world quite like the DMZ, and if the DMZ Korean International Documentary Festival has its way, there will be no other festival quite as good at bringing together noteworthy documentaries. Held at indoor and outdoor venues in Paju Printing Town and the Peace Park in Imjingak, both disconcertingly close to the barbed wire at the border, the festival aims to give visitors access to stories and sights they would not be able to hear or see otherwise. Seventy-four films from thirty-five countries will be presented at the film fest. They are divided into the competitive categories of International and Korean and the non-competitive categories of World Spectrum and Special Feature. As this year is the 60th anniversary of the Korean War, this last program brings together documentaries exploring the cruelty and inhumanity of armed conflicts from all corners of the globe. See the website for a detailed schedule and directions. dmzdocs.com 031-955-8623

gyeongGI province

CHUNGCHEONG CALENDAR E DI T OR’ S P ICK s

Helicopter Hijinks

Art Through September 26th Leonardo Da Vinci, Michelangelo, and Raphael Murals Asia Museum in Daejeon. 10 am – 6 pm, Sun 1 – 6 pm.

Closed Mon. Adults W12,000, teens W10,000, children W8,000. frescoart.co.kr 042-863-0055

Family & Community

CHUNGCHEONG

Tucked away in the Asan countryside is Chinook (시누크), a bar whose soft lighting, comfortable sofas and vintage vinyls make it stand out from the crowd—that, and the fact that it’s a giant helicopter.

The owner, Mr. Jong Hee Jang, hand-built this replica Chinook from scratch. It was truly a labour of love, spanning seven years during which, he says, he “lived on water and noodles.” The bar, with its eclectic mix of rock and roll memorabilia and Air Force artifacts, has attracted visitors from over 59 countries. Mr. Jang proudly states, “I wanted to make a meeting place…a Mecca of artistic and cultural riches.”

This month, Chinook hosted a band night in aid of Cambodian charity ABCs and Rice, featuring music from local talent The Spanish Lounge, Namji Slaps Chichis, and Hongdae club FF favorites Like a Fox. Mr Jang hopes this will serve as a prototype for future fundraisers and plans to host an outdoor rock festival in the fall.

016-457-3656 chinookch47@hanmail.net

Words by Stacey Siebr itz and shots by R h ys Br i n dle

September 3rd - 6th Cheongju Jikji Festival 78 years before Gutenberg printed his first Bible, monks in Korea created the world’s first-recorded movable metal print text, called the Jikji. Cheongju Arts Cetner. jikjifestival.com 043-200-4407 September 9th – 12th Hongseong Naepo Festival What is called Hongseong-gun today was once Hongju, famous for its bustling market. This festival recreates that old-timey market with plenty to see, eat, and enjoy. Hongseonggun. naepofestival.com 041-632-3616 September 19th - 23rd Wooreuk Culture Festival Held for nearly 40 years, the festival honors great musicians like Wooreuk with a diverse array of activities in the works including fireworks, sports, martial arts, and a daeyageum contest. Chungju. wooreuk.org 043-847-1565

Dine & Drink September 3rd - 5th Cheongyang Red Pepper and Gugija Festival This is the site of the spicy pepper eating contest from the movie Too Beautiful to Lie (그녀를 믿지마세요).

The traditional market in Cheongyanggun. cygg.kr 041-940-2371 September 3rd - 7th Yeongdong Grape Festival Pick your own fruit, make your own wine, and have yourself a grape time at Yeongdonggun. Near Yongdu Park. ydpodo.co.kr 043-740-3474 September 3rd - 12th Geumsan Insam Festival See the ginseng rice cake mallet show or try sowing and gathering the pungent root yourself.

Geumsan-gun. geumsan.go.kr 041-750-2391

Sport & Fitness

September 18th – October 17th

Great Baekje World Festival

Nearly 1,400 years after the Silla and Chinese armies crushed the forces of Baekje, the ancient kingdom is reborn—at least for the duration of this festival. Co-hosted by Gongju and Buyeo County, the month-long festival offers a rare look into an oftforgotten chapter of Korean history. It has been held each year since 1955, during which time it has become one of Korea’s most highly regarded cultural events. Visitors this year can see performances including the riverfront military drama Sama Iyagi and the on-the-water cultural show Sabimir. In addition, there will be parading soldiers in traditional attire and a reenactment of the fatal battle of Hwangsanbeol between Baekje and Silla forces. Events held near Gomanaru Ferry in Gongju City and at the Baekje Cultural Complex in Buyeo County. baekje.org 041-857-6955 62 | 10 Magazine September 2010

CHUNGCHEONG PROVINCE Religious Services Central Presbyterian Church Nonsan 041-736-1002 Presbyterian Church Cheonan 041-675-2008 Central Presbyterian Church Gongju 011-382-1862 Sanseong Church 042-585-8111 Daejeon jungwonh@hotmail.com

Classes Yegok Natural Dye Workshop Okcheongun Dye clothing or make natural soap. yegok.co.kr 043-733-0978

Entertainment Kumdori Land Daejeon kumdori.co.kr 042-862-4000 O-World Amusement Park Daejeon oworld.kr 042-580-4820

Museums Alcohol Museum: Liquorium Chungju liquorium.com 043-855-7333 Gonam Shell Mound Museum Taeangun Anmyeon Island museum.taean.go.kr 041-670-2337 Jincheon Bell Museum Jincheon-gun jincheonbell.net 043-539-3850 Korea Traditional Architecture Museum Yesan-gun English site: ktam.or.kr 041-337-5877

Hotels/Accommodations New Korea Hotel Asan 041-542-8151 Onyang Hot Spring Hotel Asan 041-543-2141 Cheonan Central Hotel Cheonan 041-564-9100 Yuseong Daejeon

042-822-9591 The Sky Blue Bird Seosan 011-382-1862 Golden Wave Taean 041-675-2008

Medical Services Konyang International Health Care Center Daejeon kihcc.kyuh.co.kr 042-600-9978 Sun Hospital Daejeon 042-220-8000

Restaurants/Supermarkets

September 29th – October 3rd Chungju World Martial Arts Festival The competition is fierce with 1,000 athletes from Korea and two hundred from overseas. World Martial Arts Theme Park. martialarts.or.kr 043-850-6720

Gasan Korean, Cheonan 041-561-9500 Spain House Spanish, Cheonan

041-571-7474 Olive Farms Buffet, Cheongju

043-215-3311

October 3rd Eco-1 Seonyang Masai “Barefoot” Marathon 5km and 13km walking or running in the forest paths on Gyejok Mountain in Daejeon, starting at 10 am.

Apply by Sep. 24th. masaimarathon.com 042-527-1880

Barker’s Live Bar Gyeryong Club In Sky 2 Daejeon cafe.daum.net/tjinsky

October 10th Daecheongho Marathon 5k for W15,000, 10k and half for W30,000. 9 am at Daecheong Park in Daejeon. Apply by Sep. 6th. dcmarathon.or.kr 042-934-8890 K-League Soccer Schedule at Daejeon World Cup Stadium 11th Daejeon vs Busan at 3 pm 19th Daejeon vs Gwangju at 3 pm Pro-Baseball at Daejeon Stadium vs Samsung 2nd – 3rd at 6:30pm vs SK 9-10th at 6:30pm, 11th at 5pm vs Nexen 15th 6:30pm vs Lotte 17th at 6:30pm, 18/19th at 5pm

Live Music Venues 042-841-0470 042-223-7117

Bars/Lounges/Pubs Rolling Stones Cheonan 041-562-9824 MJ Cheongju “MJ Bar” on Facebook.

043-273-8366 Road King Cheongju 010-8301-5936 Blue Moon Cheongwon 043-285-0399 Brickhouse Sports Bar & Grill Daejeon “The Daejeon Brickhouse” on Facebook,

010-9867-0921 J-Rock Daejeon 010-4564-7721 Santa Claus Daejeon “Santa Claus 2008” on Facebook, 042-825-5500 The Shisha House Daejeon 042-825-4157 Sponge Daejeon 042-471-3373

GYEONGSANG DESTINATION

Climbing Walls in Daegu

With both indoor and outdoor rock faces within easy reach, Daegu gives you plenty of chances to work on your climbing skills.

Words by Dav i d W i l ls and shots by M ega n Pr eec e

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challenging for such a small place. It costs W5,000 to use the facilities, or W50,000 for a one month pass, and is open from 11 am until midnight. You’ll find Challenger very near the Sinmae subway stop on the Green Line. Come out of exit 1 and walk past the row of English academies. A small road leads down to the right, and you’ll see a doorway with a yellow sign above it that says “암 벽등반 Challenger.” cafe.daum.net./chgcc On the south side of Beomeo Park (near the Suseong-gu Office subway stop on the green line) there is a small outdoor climbing wall. There isn’t a lot to do here, but it’s extremely peaceful, nestled among the trees and hills. If you’re just learning to climb and don’t want to learn in front of anyone else (except the numerous chipmunks and squirrels that inhabit the area), there is nowhere better. This is absolutely secluded, and largely unknown to both foreign and Korean climbers. To get there, enter Beomeo Park and head to the southwest corner. It is completely unsigned and difficult to find, but if you can manage it you’ll have your own private wall for as long as you like.

Finding these climbing gems isn’t always easy, but it is certainly rewarding. There is good exercise, great friendships, and sometimes a bit of peace and quiet to be found at Daegu’s indoor and outdoor climbing locations.

Getting there:

Daegu is located two thirds of the way down the KTX line joining Seoul and Busan. As one of Korea’s major metropolises, Daegu is easy to reach from any major train or bus station.

Beomeo Park climbing wall, shot by David Wills 10 Magazine September 2010 | 63

GYEONGSANG

ike much of Korea, Daegu offers a lot of options both for hiking and climbing. Surrounded by mountains, you’re never more than a short bus-ride from soaring peaks, steep trails and rocky outcrops. To the north there’s Palgong Mountain, to the south Ap Mountain, and in between a number of indoor and outdoor climbing facilities.

Probably the best known place to climb is the World Cup Stadium, which one can find from almost anywhere in Daegu thanks to the abundance of giant brown tourist signs. Follow the roads back towards the mountains and you’ll find the Daegu Sports Park Rock Climbing Wall. There aren’t many signs for the wall itself, but if you head towards the drive-in cinema behind the bus parking area, it’s hard to miss. This wall is enclosed, so it’s great for climbing even in the rainy season. It’s also suitable for climbers of all abilities with simple beginner’s trails that build up to a fifteen-meter-high peak with a 155 degree overhang. The Daegu Sports Park Climbing Wall is open 9 am to 5 pm from December to February, and 9 am to 6 pm throughout the rest of the year.

Climbing classes are available for a mere W2,000 won per twohour session.

Much less well known, but very close to the Daegu Sports Park Climbing Wall, is a small wall on Uksoo (욱수) Mountain. If you head east from the World Cup Stadium to Gyeongsan, there’s a large bowling pin next to a spa called Worldpia. Follow the road for about five minutes and you’ll find the wall on your right hand side. It is an untended crag and thus free to use, with nine routes suitable for intermediate or advanced climbers.

If you’re in the Siji area of Daegu (near the World Cup Stadium) you’ll definitely want to visit Challenger – perhaps the best known indoor climbing facility in the city. It’s run by a very friendly couple, who will help beginners master the basics of climbing. The gym features some simple exercise equipment, but the main draw is the climbing routes, which are extensive and

GYEONGSANG CALENDAR Gyeongsang DIS C OV ER Y

Art Through October 13th Photographic Meditation: A Gwangho Choi Photo Exhibition You won’t find a lot of digital shots in this exhibition.

Choi’s use of overexposure in capturing birth, death and rites of passage in Korean society provides a photographic history of Korea’s last three decades. The exhibiting museum boasts that “oxygen generators are installed in each hall so the audience can see photographs with exhilarating air.” No open flames nearby please. Goeun Museum of Photography.

Tue – Sun 10 am - 7 pm. goeunmuseum.org 051-746-0055

Candy Art Hall. cafe.daum.net/ somsatanghall 051-922-4545 September 2nd – 5th Daegu International jazz Festival Showcasing some of the best domestic and international jazz talents in Korea.

The lineup includes the Raon Park Quartet, Natsuki Morikawa, the Ronn Branton Quartet, and the Seoul Soloist Jazz Orchestra (don’t ask us about how you can have a “soloist” orchestra).

W30,000 - W60,000. Susong Artpia, Jungangro Outdoor Stage, along with other venues. dijf.co.kr 053-744-5235 September 3rd – 5th

September 6th - November 15th

Dragon Dream W o rds BY M i k e L u e dk e , s h ot s b y B R YC E W EI B L E Y

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arved into the side of a mountain in the heart of Busan, Dragon Dream serves traditional Korean food and drink in a uniquely subterranean setting. A keen sense of direction is needed to navigate the twists and turns to get there, but it’s worth the effort, as any previous patron will attest. Known to the foreigner crowd as “The Cave Bar,” what was once a bomb shelter now attracts clientele with a craving for pajeon (onion pancake), grilled prawn, and other seafood specialties – all with a generous side of cave drippings. The s p e c t e r of a s eve n -fo ot dragon stares on as diners enjoy their first bites of dubu kimchi, arguably the best in Busan, while waiting for their meal.

Although the food is delicious and reasonably priced, the main attraction beside the atmosphere is the dongdongju and bamboo soju found on the drink menu. In regular or ginseng flavors, the dongdongju comes in a heavy kettle with enough liquid to satisfy your thirst and leave you wanting just one more bowl. The din within the restaurant gradually elevates with each passing kettle, and so too the ambiance of this strangely enchanting restaurant within a cave.

Come hungry and thirsty and let the fruits of this dragon’s dream satisfy your desire.

G e t t i n g t h e r e : Take subway line 1 to Beomil-dong Stn., exit 7. Take a right at the top of the stairs walking past Hyundai Department Store. Cross the pedestrian footbridge and go left to the first crosswalk. Cross the street and turn left until reaching a meat restaurant with a red sign that translates to “Samgyeop Party.” Go right and then take a quick left at So Hee Hair Salon. About 30 meters ahead, look for a simple red and white sign on the right reading 용꿈 (Yong Ggum), which translates to “Dragon Dream.” 051-646-5924

64 | 10 Magazine September 2010

Busan Biennale Art expositions this massive don’t happen every day people.

We’re talking about only once every two years. This year’s theme is evolution, both of art and of the human race. Busan Museum of Art and other locations.

2010.busanbiennale.org 051-503-6111 Starting September 10th Off the Wall Fifteen exhibitors will have approximately 32 paintings and 18 sculptures on display. Clayarch Kimhae Museum. Exhibition runs through February 27th. clayarch.org 055-340-7004 September 28th Daegu Modern History Photo Exhibition Follow the modern history of Daegu through the photographs of eight different exhibitors. Photographs begin during the Japanese occupation circa 1930 and run through the Korean War, ending with the 1960s. A rare chance for a peek at life in Daegu before all the factories got there. Through October 24th at Daegu’s Bongsan Cultural Center. Free entry. bongsanart.org 019-9021-3989

Theater & Dance Ongoing The Ballerina Who Fell in Love with a B-Boy This b-boy-meets-ballerina story is a genre-bending mash-up of break dance and ballet. Seomyeon BB Theater in Busan. Mon - Fri 8 pm , Sat 4 and 8 pm, Sun 3 and 6 pm. W40,000 W50,000. bbtheater.co.kr 051-804-2252

Mamma Mia! Ever heard the music of ABBA made into a comical musical that over 42 million people have seen—In Korean? Synopsis from the site: “On the eve of her wedding, a daughter’s quest to discover the identity of her father brings three men from her mother’s past back to the island they last visited 20 years ago.” Now that you know the storyline, you can see writer Catherine Johnson’s Tony Award-nominated musical and experience ABBA in Korean. sungsanart.or.kr 055-268-7900 September 14th Cellist Seon-won Yang’s Serenade of Schmann and Brahms Mr. Yang and his team will be playing pieces from Brahms Cello Sonatas and Schumann.

Sungsan Art Hall in Changwon. sungsanart.or.kr 055-268-7900 Yeongnam Percussion Band Founding Performance 7 pm at Daegu’s Bongsan Cultural Center, Gaon Hall. Free. bongsanart.org 010-7288-1930 September 15th

Jump In its second decade, this popular martial arts comic show shows no signs of slowing. Lotte Art Hall. Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat & Holidays 5 pm & 8 pm, Sun 6 pm.

W40,000 – W50,000. hijump.co.kr 051-744-4885 Wizard of Oz in English This is a tremendous opportunity for those of you expats with children anywhere near Busan. An English version of The Wizard of Oz helps keep the kids in touch with their roots. The bad news is that you’ll probably need someone who speaks Korean to help you get tickets. W10,000. Saturdays at 2 pm. Near Seomyeon Station. Migliore Department Store, 6th floor. Cotton

Sangre Flamenca The original Flamenco Artists directly from Spain. 7:30 pm at Suseong Artpia.

W30,000 - W100,000. Virus infected site: ssartpia.or.kr 053-668-1530

September 25th – 26th Lucid Fall (Voz e Violao) Part of the “Voice and Guitar” series. Sat 6 pm, Sun 5:30 pm at the Haeundae Cultural Center in Busan. W33,000. hcc.haeundae.go.kr 051-749-7651 September 26th

Center on Geoje Island. geojeart.or.kr 055-680-1000 September 7th, 14th and 28th Daegu Gukak (Traditional Instrument) Troop Tuesday Performances Tuesday the 7th, 14th and 28th enjoy a completely free performance in the Daegu Culture and Art Center’s Outdoor Theater. artcenter. daegu.go.kr 053-606-6338 September 8th Busan Philharmonic Orchestra Beethoven’s Overture to Fidelio, Schumann’s Cello Concerto, Glinka’s Overture to Ruslan and Ludmilla and more. 7:30 pm at the Busan Culture Center. W5,000 - W10,000. culture.busan.go.kr 051-607-3114 September 10th Daegu Symphony Orchestra The orchestra is going to play Suppé, Bruch and Rimsky-Korsakov. Palgong Hall, Daegue Culture and Art Center.

W10,000 - W20,000. 7:30 pm. artcenter. daegu.go.kr 053-606-6313

Sarah Jang Concert with the Daegu Symphony Orchestra Mendelssohn Violin Concerto No. 1. W50,000 W150,000. Daegu Susong Artpia Yongji Art Hall. ssartpia.or.kr 053-668-1530 September 28th The Divine Comedy: The Dance 7 pm at Daegu’s Bongsan Cultural Center, Gaon Hall. W20,000 - W40,000. bongsanart.org 010-3357-8060 September 30th – October 3rd Arim Art Festival One thing you can count on at a Korean festival is a fireworks show, and this one starts right off the bat with one during the opening ceremonies on the 30th. From there the festival will include arts such as photography, Chinese calligraphy, dance, traditional Korean instrumental performances and more. Held in Geochang-gun, Geochang-eup (read: the boonies). arimje.co.kr 055-945-2234

September 16th Busan Philharmonic Orchestra The Busan Philharmonic Orchestra introduces well-known classical pieces of Sibelius, Grieg, Mozart, Tchaikovsky and many more. Busan Culture Center at 7:30 pm for W2,000. culture.busan.go.kr 051-673-3111

GYEONGSANG

September 30th – October 30th Daegu International Opera Festival The city of Daegu is really trying to make a name for itself with a few big festivals, and the Daegu International Opera Festival is one of them, now in its seventh year. As is common with these things in Korea, their website only works right on a PC running MS Explorer. diof.org 053-666-6111

Kim Deoksu Samulnori Don’t let any Koreans tell you that Samulnori is centuries old. It’s not. Deok-su Kim created it with his team in 1978. Sure the instruments, symbols and drums existed in different forms on the farms but it was Mr. Kim who brought them together, coining both the performing art and the term Samulnori. He is now a legend for creating the quintessential Korean “folk art.” See the man himself perform and brag to your children later. Daegu’s Dalseogu Advanced Culture Center. 7:30 pm. W20,000. dsac.or.kr 053-667-3081

September 17th

Concerts Every Saturday Bonghwangdae Regular Night Performances Gyeongju has put together regular Saturday night performances for the community and the website says they’ll be continuing through October 23rd, but the new schedule isn’t up yet. Check the website one more time before calling.

Nodonggobun Special Stage. e.guide. gyeongju.go.kr 054-779-6770 September 2nd Daegu Symphony Orchestra Plays Tchaikovsky O. Nicolai’s overture The Merry Wives of Windsor, Debussy’s Prélude à l’après-midi d’un faune along with Tchaikovsky’s Symphony No.4 and Piano Concerto No.1 among other pieces. W10,000 - W20,000. artcenter.daegu.go.kr 053-606-6313 September 3rd The 7th Annual Geoje National Choir Contest National choir contest for amateur groups of singers composed of 20 to 50 people. 1:30 pm at Geoje Art

Japanese Rock Band : Doberman

Asian Rock Bus (Busan) Crying Nut and Doberman team up for the Busan leg of this tour, which you can catch in Seoul on the 18th. Held at Busan MBC Lotte Art Hall. W33,000. mbcarthall.com 02-326-3075 Lasse Lindh in Busan Swedish musician Lasse Lindh begins his tour in Korea starting from Busan. His sweet ballads will attract quite a crowd. Haeundae Cultural Center. 7 pm. W22,000 - W33,000, haeundae.go.kr 051-749-7651 September 19th Lasse Lindh in Daegu Swedish musician Lasse Lindh continues his Korean tour in Daegu. Suseong Artpia. 6 pm. W33,000, ssartpia.or.kr 053-668-1530

10 Magazine September 2010 | 65

GYEONGSANG CALENDAR E DI T OR’ S PICK

Concert September 10th - 12th

Hallyu Dream Festival

Gyeongju has put together the end-all-be-all Hallyu (Korean Wave) event. The first night, entitled Date with Hallyu Stars, will host a few heart throbs for the young ladies out there: Sang-hyun Yoon, Bum Kim and Taewoong Uhm. The second night will see the Lee Young Hee Fashion Show, and acts from the previous night will again take the stage. But the real event is the climactic concert on the 12th: The Hallyu Dream Concert. The list of acts performing reads like a who’s who of Korean pop: Super Junior, Davichi, 2PM, Kang-ta, Se7en, 4Minute, T-ara, Kara, Secret, After School and loads more! The big bonus: tickets are free to foreigners! Visit their great English website to check out the schedule and apply early for the (first-come-first-served) tickets. hallyudreamfestival.or.kr 053-950-3332

September 29th Busan Philharmonic Youth Orchestra: French Night The orchestra plays “Music of Ballet” from Faust and pieces like Symphony on a French Mountain Air for piano & orchestra for this French Night. 7 pm at the Busan Culture Center. W2,000. culture.busan.go.kr 051-673-3111 September 30th Busan Philharmonic Ochestra Well-being Concert Under the title of Well-being Concert, the orchestra presents a number of pieces of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, Händel, Beethoven and Mendelssohn to the audience. Busan Culture Center at 11 am. W10,000. culture.busan.go.kr 051-673-3111 Daegu Opera Festival A story about one old man who falls in love with Marguerite yet makes a deal with the devil, the opera Faust plays at the Daegu Opera House.

7:30 pm. W10,000 - W70,000. operafestival.or.kr 053-666-6111

Saturdays in September The Ceremonial Walk of Queen Seondeok Watch the queen and her entourage parade by if you’re in Korea’s historical landmark city, Gyeongju, on a Saturday at 2:30 pm. eguide.gyeongju.go.kr 054-779-6770 September 11th – 15th Yeongcheon Herb Medicine Festival There is no better chance than this to experience the herbs which are a key part of Oriental medicine. All kinds of different herbs will be displayed and can be purchased. Yeongcheon Yakjeon Street. herb.yc.go.kr 054-330-6068

September 24th - October 3rd

Busan International Travel Fair If you are thinking about traveling abroad at some point (and let’s face it, what expat isn’t looking to travel Asia while located in Korea), then here is a terrific opportunity. All those destinations you’re contemplating will be represented at the fair: China, Japan, Sri Lanka, Macao, Hong Kong, India, Japan, Malaysia, Indonesia, the Philippines, Thailand, Taiwan, Mongolia, as well as farther destinations like Slovakia, Turkey, Croatia, Canada, Mexico, South Africa. You can get tons of information from natives of the country you’re thinking about visiting, and there will be foreign foods from a variety of countries on sale in the food court as well. Takes place at Busan’s BEXCO exhibition. Only W2,000 to enter. bitf.co.kr 051-740-3570 66 | 10 Magazine September 2010

September 10th -12th International Beauty and Cosmetic Surgery Medical Industry Expo Takes place at Busan’s BEXCO. ibps.kr 051-740-7707 September 30th - October 3rd Busan International Architectural Culture Fair biacf.org 051-888-4758 Through October 29th World Confucianism Festival Gyeongsang Province is where Confucianism was most prominent in the past. This festival presents details of Confucian culture in the region. Events will take place at nine different venues. worldcf.co.kr 054-851-7182

Dine & Drink September 10th - 12th

Family & Community

September 18th Moon and King Festival As visitors follow the path, they can participate in traditional archery, samulnori, magic shows, and more. Mungyeong Pass Outside Stage in Mungyeong. mgmtour.co.kr 054-555-2571

Conference September 10th - 13th

September 8th - 11th 2010 IT EXPO Held at Busan’s BEXCO. itexpo.or.kr 051-740-3417

Andong Mask Dance Festival The mask dance is the most significant tradition in Andong’s cultural heritage.

Maskdance Park, Hahoe Park Village. maskdance.com 054-840-6398 September 30th – October 24th Onggi Expo in Ulsan Korea Encounter traditional Korean pottery, also known as Onggi (옹기) at Oegosan Onggi Village, Ulju-gun, Ulsan. onggiexpo.com 052-257-8830

Education & Conferences September 1st - 4th Environment and Energy Tech 2010 Held at Busan’s BEXCO. entechkorea.net 051-740-7456 September 2nd – 4th Color & Design Week 2010 Held at Daegu’s EXCO Convention Center, 3rd floor. colorweek.co.kr 035-601-5085 Lighting & Display Korea Held at Daegu’s EXCO Hall 1. lndexpo.co.kr 053-601-5366

Omija Festival in Moongyeong Omija, a fruit that is said to contain five different tastes, can be experienced through various activities at the festival.

A detailed schedule can be found on the official website. Dongro Elementary school. 5mija.kr 054-554-7555 September 30th – October 3rd Bonghwa Pine Mushroom Festival A good chance to experience the region’s specialty, Songi mushroom. Also see our article on the topic on page 16. Chaeyuk Park, Bonghwa-gun. bonghwafestival. com/songi 054-679-6321

Sports & Fitness October 24th Jinju Namgang Marathon Sign up deadline is September 30th. 5 km (W10,000), 10 km (W25,000), half marathon (W30,000) or full marathon (W30,000) next to the Namgang in Jinju. gnmarathon.co.kr 055-751-1085 K-League Soccer 1st Pohang vs FC Seoul at Pohang Steel Yard 7:30pm 4th Daegu vs Sungnam at Daegu Field 7pm 11th Gyeongnam vs Ulsan at Changwon Soccer Center 8pm 18th Ulsan vs Jeonnam at Ulsan Munsu Soccer Field 5pm 18th Busan vs Gangwon at Busan Asiad Field 7pm 18th Daegu vs Incheon at Daegu Field 7pm 25th Busan vs Ulsan at Busan Asiad Field 5pm 25th Gyeongnam vs Daegu at Changwon Soccer Center 7pm KBO Professional Baseball League All Busan games held at Sajik Stadium, home of the Lotte Giants.

1st vs LG at 6:30pm 4th/5th vs Samsung at 5pm 7th vs Nexen at 6:30pm 14th/15th vs SK at 6:30pm All Daegu games held at Daegu Field, home of the Samsung Lions.

8th vs Lotte at 6:30pm 10th vs LG 6:30pm 11th/12th vs LG 5pm 19th vs SK at 5pm

Gyeongsang PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance Busan Foundation for International Activities bfia.or.kr 1577-7716 Geoje Foreign Resident Association gfra.net 055-687-9332 Ulsan Global Center 052-229-2810 Ulsan Online ulsanonline.com

Religious Services

Kebabistan Russian 051-581-4050 Sunset Lounge American 051-742-2959 Gumi Waegook Cook American

waegookcook.com 054-444-3775 Daegu Berkeley Italian Hof Street. 053-421-8577 Buy the Book Western This bookstore and café is your source for free yoga, theater, and parties. Downtown Daegu. Open weekends. buythebookcafe@yahoo.com Café Francesco Italian 053-252-9625 Hami Mami’s American 053-475-5242

Bujeon Church Busan 051-807-3331 Suyeongno Church Busan 051-740-4500 Podowon Church Busan 051-333-3736 Baekangro Church Busan 051-898-3740 Pusan University of Foreign Studies Busan 051-640-3445 Okpo Joonang Presbyterian Geoje Island 010-2586-7520, 010-3873-1652 Sumgim Presbyterian Church Geoje Island sumgim.org 017-577-3096

Education Ayurveda Yoga Academy Certification course for would-be yoga teachers in Daegu. Sat 10 am – 7 pm.

Call Yatren at 011-9547-5181 Sand Sculpture Classes Haeundae Beach. Every Sun 1 - 3 pm. W10,000.

051-749-7611 Yoga Classes Each 1st and 3rd Sunday from 12:30 – 1:30 pm. Buy the Book Cafe in Daegu. megan.deutsch@gmail. com 010-7794-1218

2nd Floor Restaurant 3rd Floor Sports Lounge

Wonju Hotel Inter-Burgo Wonju: 1401-10, Bangok-dong, Wonju-si, Kwangwon-do, Korea. Tel : +82-33-769-8114

Hotels/Accommodations 4 – 5 Star Hotels Busan Lotte Hotel 051-810-1000 Novotel Ambassador 051-743-1234 Seacloud 051-933-1000 Daegu Novotel Ambassador 053-664-1101 Hostels Busan Arpina 051-740-3228 Zen Backpackers 010-8722-1530

053-423-4048 The Holy Grill Western Owned and operated by Canadians, the Grill provides expats with fantastic sandwiches, burgers, Tex-Mex and breakfast in a chilled-out environment that feels more like a lounge than a burger joint. Move up to the 3rd floor to catch major sporting events.

053-423-4048 Leo Chow Mexican A decent selection of burritos and tacos.

053-255-7111 Maya Indian Gyeongbuk University.

053-214-1916 Samarkland Russian Daegu station.

053-252-4021 Siji Taco Mexican Spicy tacos at competitive prices 053-791-5050 South St. Western Philly cheesesteaks and cold cuts in Suseong-gu. blog. naver.com/southst105 053-768-7867

www.ibhotel.com

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Live Music Venues Club Interplay Busan cafe.daum.net/ interplaycafe 051-517-4773 Club Heavy Daegu cafe.daum.net/ clubheavy96 010-2338-1340 Club Metal Boys Gyeongju cafe.daum.net/metalboys 011-9599-8370

Bars/Lounges/Pubs

Gecko’s Western Perched on lovely Haeundae Beach at the Pale de CZ, you can get all of that authentic Western food you’re used to back home, and you’ll find bartenders who know how to mix a real margarita. 051747-3069

Busan Aligote Wines, cheese platters, and excellent service. Haeundae. 6 pm – 3 am. aligote-busan.com 051-731-3322 Basement Open mic nights on Tuesdays and parties galore.

011-9294-2391 Fuzzy Navel Great drinks and great Mexican food as well. 011-1757-6349 The HQ Bar Kyungsung’s only foreignerowned bar with sports and dart games. busankart@yahoo.com Rock ‘n’ Roll House Western-style bar with darts and pool and a great view of Haeundae.

051-742-5553 Sosa Bar A cozy latin bar close to Pusan National University.

051-513-0070 Daegu Ping Bar Great drinks, a pool table, and music upon request. Samdeok Catholic Church. 7 pm - 5 am. withhyk@hanmail.net 053-422-7708

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GYEONGSANG

Restaurants Busan Ganga Indian Opposite Haeundae Beach. ganga.co.kr 051-740-6670

Deagu Hotel Inter-Burgo DAEGU: 300, Manchon-dong, Soosung-gu, Daegu, Korea. Tel: +82-53-6027-114 Hotel Inter-Burgo Exco, Sangyeok 2-dong, Buk-gu, Daegu, Korea. Tel: +82-53-3800-114

JEOLLA CALENDAR E DI T OR’ S PICK

The Gwangju Biennale: 10,000 Lives W o rds b y Hug h i e S ams o n

Art Through September 2nd The Beautiful World of Buddha: Juyeon Jo’s Solo Exhibition Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 011-671-3782 BISA Exhibit: “The Meeting of Teacher and Student” Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 010-3655-3885 North Jeolla Art Fair In this art fair, around 480 pieces by 32 artists are on display and for sale. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 063-276-9475

T

Top left: Liu Wei; right: Lee Friedlander bottom left, right: Ydessa Hendeles

Through October 3rd Let’s Play with Picture Books This exhibit gives children a chance to browse through colorful storybooks and meet fascinating characters.

Gwangju Museum of Art

JEOLLA

he eighth Gwangju Biennale, which opens on September 3rd, presents a compelling investigation of the relationships which bind people to images and images to people.

The exhibition is named 10,000 Lives (만인보) after a thirty-volume epic poem conceived of by Korean author Eun Ko while in solitary confinement for his participation in the Gwangju Uprising in 1980. Encompassing a diverse range of media with a particular emphasis on portraiture, it engages our love of images and our need to create substitutes, effigies, and avatars for ourselves and our loved ones. The pieces on display examine how images are used as sites of affection and means of survival, how they are fabricated, circulated, and exchanged, and what their power consists of.

The Biennale is Asia’s oldest biennial of contemporary art and a highlight of the international contemporary art biennale circuit, and this year’s artwork will not disappoint. An installation of one-hundred life-size sculptures depicting the suffering of Chinese peasants will be presented in its entirety at the Biennale for the first time in an Asian country outside of China, and it is merely one of the hundreds of highlights which visitors to the Biennale can look forward to encountering this year. In all, it will feature the work of 134 different artists from 28 different countries with new work by Pawel Althamer, Roberto Cuoghi, Keren Cytter, and others.

The exhibition will run daily from 9 am until 6 pm.

It will continue until November 7th, and three venues neighboring each other within Jungoui Park will host it: Gwangju Biennale Hall, the Gwangju Museum of Art, and the Gwangju Folk Museum. For more information, visit gb.or.kr and 10000lives.org or call 062-608-4114.

68 | 10 Magazine September 2010

September 1st – 5th Art Gwangju 2010: Int’l Art Fair Gwangju keeps the culture coming with this art fair, a sister event to the Gwangju Biennale. The relaxed atmosphere suits the theme of the meeting of fine art and design. In addition to works from galleries and design firms across the world, viewers will enjoy the Emerging Asian Artists exhibit. Kim Daejung Convention Center in Gwangju. kdjcenter.or.kr 062-611-3005 September 3rd – 7th South Jeolla Photo Contest Exhibit and Awards The photos in this contest offer an artistic look into the traditions of Jeolla Province. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 7 pm. sori21.co.kr 063-270-8000 September 10th – 16th Yong-geun Kim Solo Exhibition Suncheon Culture and Art Center. 8 pm. scart.or.kr 010-7622-0894 September 26th – 30th Suncheon Art Competition Suncheon Culture and Art Center. scart.or.kr 061-749-3516

Theater & Dance September 1st – 5th Jeolla-Gyeongsang Theater Festival: “Four-City Fest” This theater festival attempts to improve ties between the Jeolla and Gyeongsang regions, the residents of which are not known for being especially friendly to each other. 9/1: Dragon and Dog. 7:30 pm. 9/2: Clowns (non-verbal). 7:30 pm. 9/3: Until Dark.

7:30 pm. 9/4: The Inn Without a Number.

4 pm. 9/5: Bae Bi Jang Jeon at 4 pm and Korean War concert at 6 pm. Korean ability required. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. sori21.co.kr 063-277-7440 September 8th Yun-suk Son Ballet Troupe Suncheon Culture and Art Center. 7 pm.

W5,000. scart.or.kr 010-9866-8100 September 11th – 12th Cloud Bread: Kids’ Musical Based on the best-selling children’s book about the kittens who break off a piece of cloud so mother cat can bake them some cloud bread. Korean ability required. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 2 – 4 pm. W20,000 – W25,000. sori21.co.kr 063-270-8000 September 12th Jeong-gyun Kim’s Dance: A Sweet Fragrance This dance, presented by the Jeong-gyun Kim Dance Company, expresses the pleasures and desires of human life through the metaphor

of smell. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 4 pm. Adults W10,000, students W5,000. sori21.co.kr 070-8777-9472 September 18th – 19th Maninbo: The Play This play is inspired

by Maninbo, the mind-bogglingly huge collection of poems by Korean writer Eun Go, which was completed earlier this year with the publication of the 30th volume. Performed by the Jeonju City Theater Troupe. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. Sat 7 pm, Sun 2 & 7 pm. Adults W15,000, children W10,000. art.jeonju.go.kr 063-273-1044

Concerts September 2nd Jeonju Symphony Orchestra Seok-hui Kang directs a performance of Rachmaninov’s Piano Concerto No. 3 in D Minor and Tchaikovsky’s Violin Concerto in D Major with Won-jin Song on violin and Se-jin Song on piano. Chonbuk National University Cultural Center in Jeonju. 7:30 pm. W5,000 – W7,000. cnucc.chonbuk.ac.kr 063-281-2748 September 2nd – 30th Thursday Gugak Art Stage These free weekly performances sponsored by the North Jeolla Province Gugak Center give the audience a chance to experience Korean opera, dance, music, and other traditional forms of artistic expression.

Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju.

7:30 pm. sori21.co.kr 063-710-1395 September 3rd – 6th Bang-ul Lim Traditional Music Festival and Competition Hailing from Gwangsan-gu in Gwangju, pansori singer Bang-ul Lim (1904-1961) gave voice to the sadness and suffering of Koreans during the Japanese occupation. The contest held in his honor includes pansori instrumental music, dance, poetry and farm music.

Events held at various locations in Gwangju. imbangul.or.kr 062-521-0731 September 4th Dream Philharmonic Orchestra With the Dream Philharmonic Orchestra, made up of junior high and high school students who are passionate about music. Beethoven’s 5th Symphony and other compositions. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 7:30 pm. sori21.co.kr 010-6611-8060 September 4th – 25th Free Outdoor Concerts in Gwangju Head to the Kim Daejung Convention Center each Saturday night for some great entertainment at no cost. 9/4: Jazz dance and magic show. 9/11: Traffic music concert. 9/18: Swing dance.

9/25: Acoustic guitar and jazz dance. 7 – 9 pm. kdjcenter.or.kr 062-611-2228 September 9th Jinju YMCA Choir Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 7:30 pm. sori21.co.kr 063-224-5501 September 10th 11 AM Happiness Concert Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 11 am. W15,000. sori21.co.kr 063-270-8000 September 11th Evergreen Band This unusual brass band is composed of older musicians who travel around sharing their love of music with the poor and disadvantaged.

Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. Free concert. sori21.co.kr 010-2627-4658 Gwangju Family Music Festival In addition to a music competition, festival attendees can enjoy an exhibit

J E OL L A DIS C OV ER Y

Choco Pie Heaven

If you’re a fan of choco pies then you need to head down to the PNB Bakery (풍년제과) in Jeonju for a taste of their unique spin on Korea’s favourite chocolate snack.

For only W1,200 you can get your hands on this supersized treat. PNB have taken two delicious circles of nutty chocolate cake, glued them together with strawberry jam and butter cream and then covered the whole mess in chocolate. It’s a calorie counter’s nightmare, but a heavenly experience for those with a sweet tooth. Far superior to the standard mass-produced choco pie, this cake offers a quirky experience you definitely don’t want to miss if you’re in the area.

PNB is the oldest bakery in Jeonju (started in 1951) and can be found at the intersection of Chungkyung-ro and Paldal-ro in downtown Jeonju. You can call them at 063Words A N D SHOT by Pau l M atthews 285-6666. with instruments from around the world, face painting, and more. City Hall in Gwangju. 3 -6 pm. fmsong.or.kr 062-514-1195 September 15th Mang-sin Yu Concert Prokofiev’s Violin Concerto No. 2, Chopin’s Piano Concerto No. 2, and other pieces by the Jeonju Symphony Orchestra. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. Free. sori21.co.kr 063-281-2748

while you’re there. yeonggwang.go.kr/tour 061-350-5752 September 19th – 21st Maryangmi Harbor Festival Cast a rod in the fishing contest or saddle up for some horse riding at this picturesque harbor located between Gogeum Island and Maryang-myeon in Gangjin-gun. gangjin.go.kr 061-430-5582 September 25th – 27th

Family & Community September 3rd - 4th Bunam Riverside Festival Muju offers lots of old-fashioned fun with stargazing on the evening of the 3rd and water activities like rafting, a water balloon fight, and a race the following day.

Bunam-myeon Athletics Park in Mujugun. tour.muju.org 063-320-2647 September 17th – 19th Bulgap Mountain Resurrection Lily Festival There’s no better place in Korea to see these beautiful pink flowers than Bulgap Mountain in Yeonggwang-gun. Explore the resort

September 7th – 9th Asia Culture Forum Held in Korean and English, this forum will look at the sweeping economic, political and cultural changes that are creating a “new Asia.”

The forum is expected to help Gwangju as it prepares for the National Asian Culture Complex scheduled to be built there. Kim Daejung Convention Center in Gwangju. acf.or.kr 062-226-2731 September 9th – 12th

ACE (Asia Content and Entertainment) Industry Fair 2010 Along with exhibits on broadcasting, video, gaming, and animation, this media-focused expo will also host the 4th Int’l Character Design Contest and the Gwangju e-Sports Festival. Kim Daejung Convention Center in Gwangju. acefair.or.kr 062-611-2241 Gwangju Science Festival Kim Daejung Convention Center in Gwangju. kdjcenter.or.kr 062-611-2000 September 29th – October 1st Jinju Local Government Expo Support grass-roots activity and the little guy along with representatives from hundreds of local organizations from all over Korea. Jinju Indoor Gymnasium and around City Hall. partner.or.kr/expo 055-749-2114

Dine & Drink

Sport & Fitness Simcheong Festival Simcheong is the pansori character who exemplifies the Korean virtue of hyo (효), or loyalty to one’s parents. In the legend, she sacrifices herself so that her father can regain his eyesight. Hear the rest of the story at the Train Village near the Seomjin River in Gokseong-gun. simcheong.com 061-363-2011 September 30th – October 3rd Iksan Seodong Festival Long before Romeo and Juliet but centuries after Paris and Helen, the Korean love story of Seodong and Seonhwa was first told.

As the story was set in Iksan, the city holds a romance-themed festival each year. Couples in particular will enjoy somewhat hokey events such as the Love Relay, the Love Post Office, the Door of Love, and a special chance to declare your love in public. seodong.iksan.go.kr 063-831-0541

K-League Football 4th Jeonbuk vs Pohang at Jeonju World Cup Stadium, 7pm 4th Jeonnam vs Daejeon at Gwangyang Field, 7pm 10th Jeonbuk vs Gangwon at Jeonju World Cup Stadium, 7pm 12th Gwangju vs Incheon at Gwangju World Cup Stadium, 3:10pm 25th Jeonnam vs Seoul at Gwangyang Field, 7pm 26th Gwangju vs Suwon at Gwangju World Cup Stadium, 3:10pm KBO Baseball All games held at Gwangju Stadium home of the KIA Tigers.

2nd/3rd vs Lotte at 6:30pm 7th/8th vs Hanhwa at 6:30pm 14th/15th vs Doosan at 6:30pm 16th/17th vs Samsung at 6:30pm

JEOLLA PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance Gwangju International Center gwangjuic.or.kr 062-226-1050

Religious Services Antioch Presbyterian Church Jeonju andiok.kr 063-274-3228 Iri Joongang Church Iksan

063-851-4311 Musangsa Muan-gun 042-841-6084

Museums Gochang Dolmen Museum 9 am – 5 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, teens W2,000, children W1,000. gcdolmen.go.kr 063-560-2576 Iksan Jewel Museum 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. jewelmuseum.go.kr 063-859-4641 Jeonju Oriental Medicine Cultural Center 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. hanbangcenter.com 063-232-2500 Jeonju Traditional Alcohol Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Free. urisul.net 063-287-6305 Jeonju Traditional Cultural Center jt.or.kr 063-280-7045 Mokpo Natural Museum 9 am – 6 pm.

Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. museum.mokpo.go.kr 061-294-3655 Mokpo Ceramic Livingware Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. doja.mokpo.go.kr 061-270-8480

Hotels/Accommodations Gwangju Youth Hostel 062-943-4378 Ramada Plaza Gwangju ramadagwangju.com 062-717-7000

Radio TBS eFM Gwangju FM 98.7 US Armed Forces Network Gunsan

AM 1440/FM 88.5 Gwangju FM 88.5

Restaurants/Supermarkets First Nepal Restaurant firstnepal.com 062-225-8771 Tequilaz Gwangju’s first Mexican cantina serves up your south-of-theborder favorites with magical margaritas and, of course, killer tequilas. tequilaz.com, tequilaz@gmail.com Underground Grocers Gwangju This foreigner-run food shop has those hardto-find cheeses, taco shells and other delicacies you crave.

062-232-2626

Live Music Venues Bars/Lounges/Pubs Art & Travel Cafe Jeonju Open mic nights every Wednesday from 9 pm.

Facebook group, 011-9437-0208 Deepin Jeonju Popular expat bar with Texas Holdem on Sundays.

019-9646-1028 Led Zeppelin Art Space Jeonju Hosts underground bands both expat and Korean. cafe.daum.net/k250073

018-607-6321 Speakeasy Gwangju The fun never stops at this fantastic bar owned and operated by honest Irishman Derrek Hannon.

010-4713-3825 San Antonio Latin Bistro Suncheon Suncheon surprises with this Latinthemed restaurant and bar. Facebook group, pyroz@hotmail.com 061-724-2234

10 Magazine September 2010 | 69

JEOLLA

South Jeolla CBS Children’s Orchestra Suncheon Culture and Art Center. scart.or.kr 061-749-3516

Ongoing GIC Talks The Gwangju International Center organizes a lecture in English nearly every Saturday from 2:30– 4 pm. Typical speakers include professors, writers, and diplomats. See website for this month’s lectures. gic.or.kr 062-226-2733

September 10th – 12th Jangsu Hanwoo and Apple Festival Beef and apples are the major farming products of Jangsu-gun, and both are well-represented in this festival. Events held at Uiam Park, Hannuri Performance Hall, and other locations. jangsufestival.com 063-350-2751

September 17th Jung-hyeon Sin Live in Concert The godfather of Korean rock and roll and soul. W55,000 – W77,000.

Suncheon Culture and Art Center. scart.or.kr 010-4127-1567 September 18th Amabile Piano Concert Suncheon Culture and Art Center.

7 pm. scart.or.kr 010-3674-3013

Education & Conferences

JEJU CALENDAR J E J U DIS C OV ER Y

Art

Image provided by Spirited Garden

Through September 26th “Close Encounter” Exhibit This exhibit, which marks the 1st anniversary of the museum, presents artwork representing the “slow life” of Jeju citizens as opposed to the rapid changes in the larger world. Jeju Museum of Art September 4th – 5th Jeju Museum of Contemporary Art Weekend Bus Tour The museum offers Jeju residents and tourists a chance to go on a tour of several of Jeju’s museums. 1 pm - 5:30 pm. The bus is free, though current museum costs apply. jejumuseum.go.kr 064-710-7803

Spirited Garden

Is life stressing you out? Do you feel like you need to get away from it all? Then make your way to the Spirited Garden, a garden sanctuary hidden away from the rest of the world. Reviewed as the number one Jeju tourist attraction by the Jeju Tourism Board and hailed in print as one of the most beautiful gardens in the world, this garden is not your average botanical or bonsai garden. It’s a place where you can relax and meditate while communing with nature. Rejuvenate your spirit while walking amongst diverse plant life, waterfalls and colorful garden art. If you’re hungry, try one of the healthy meals at the garden restaurant. From November to February hours are from 8:30 am - 6 pm, from March to October, 8:30 am - 7:30 pm. Admission costs W9,000 (adults), W7,000 (elderly/ youth) and W5,000 (children). spiritedgarden.com 064-772-3701 Words by j ea n h a n E DI T OR’ S PICK

September 17th - 19th Jung-seop Lee Art Festival This annual festival celebrates Jeju’s most famous painter and features installation art, performance art and traditional Korean folk music. Jung-seob Lee Art Gallery in Seogwipo City. culture.jeju.go.kr 064-760-2484

JEJU ISLAND Religious Services Jeju Anglican/Episcopal Church Sinjeju 010-2500-6780

Classes Woodcarving and Engraving Workshop Jeju Museum of Art. Weekdays 10 – 11:30 am, 2 – 3:30 pm; weekends 10 – 11:30 am, 2 – 4 pm.

Hotels/Accommodations Hotel Lotte Jeju 5-Star Jeju Hiking Inn Hostel hikinginn.com

064-731-1000 064-763-2380

Medical Services Dr. Chung’s Pediatric Clinic chung56@pednet.co.kr 064-748-1546 Hanna Women’s Clinic hannaobgy.com 064-711-7717 Pyeonhan Dental Clinic e-pretty.co.kr 064-758-2800

Theater & Dance

Radio Arirang Radio Jeju City: FM 88.7

Seoguipo: FM 88.1

Restaurants Bagdad Cafe Indian. Delicious, authentic Indian food made from local ingredients in a gorgeous atmosphere. Near City Hall in Jeju City 064-757-8182 Dom Jang Japanese. Spectacular sushi in several locations all over the island.

The best atmosphere is in Jungmun.

064-738-2550 El Paso Mexican. Rather bland but adequate Mexican food in a central location in Jeju City.

064-752-8252

Nanta Nanta, the non-verbal performance that got started ten years ago, is a feast for the ears that turns ordinary kitchen pots and pans into a rhythm section. Jeju Media Center in Jeju City (064-727-7800). 90 min. Sun 8 pm, Tue – Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 pm, 8 pm. W40,000 - W50,000. nanta.i-pmc.co.kr 1544-1555

Shot by Brian Miller

Concerts

Family & Community Ongoing

JEJU ISLAND

Jeju Traditional Five Day Market Forget E-mart and Homeplus—if you live in Jeju the best place to go for your shopping needs is the Five Day Market (오일장) located on the outskirts of Jeju City. Opening on the 2nd, 7th, 12th, 17th, 22nd, and 27th days of each month, this open-air market has just about anything you could ever want to buy. At the market you will be greeted by smiling old Korean women selling their carefully grown produce from tents, stalls, and even floor mats. In addition to fresh produce, you can also find rows upon rows of fish and seafood piled up high, and a meat market with a butcher’s shop where you can get the freshest meat money can buy. 8 am to 1 hour after sunset. An English language leaflet about the market is available from tourist Words by j ea n h a n information booths. 02-1330 70 | 10 Magazine September 2010

September 3rd Philip Morris Korea Concert for Jeju Residents Philip Morris Korea sponsors this free concert with the Seoul Pops Orchestra performing under the direction of Maestro Sung-ho Ha and featuring trot singer Hyun-bin Park and soprano Hyewuk Goh. Jeju Culture and Art Center.

7:30 pm. jejuculture.or.kr 02-593-8760 September 5th David Lanz Trio This performance will feature Lanz classics as well as music from their recent release Liverpool: ReImagining the Beatles. Jeju Culture and Art Center. 5 pm – 7pm. W30,000 W50,000. arts.jejusi.go.kr 02-582-4098

September 1st – 4th Bonggae Peace Trekking Festival This festival gets participants in touch with nature with four kinds of treks in and around 4-3 Peace Park and Jeolmul Recreation Forest. culture.jeju.go.kr 064-721-0282

Island Gecko’s Western. A varied menu of terrific Western food, plus maybe the best cocktails and service on the island.

The BBQ nights every weekend will blow you away with ribeye steak, sausages, and more for only W19,000. Jungmun.

064-739-0845 geckosterrace.com The Plate This modern bistro serves up a great American-style hamburger along with other Thai dishes. 064-746-8008

K-League Football 4th Jeju vs Ulsan at Jeju World Cup Stadium, 7pm 26th Jeju vs Pohang at Jeju Stadium, 3pm

Boris Brewery Bull’s Darts Bar Modern Time

Sports

Bars/Lounges/Pubs 064-726-4141 064-759-5559 064-748-4180

NETWORKING CALENDAR

Sponsored by Allied Pickfords E dited by j e a n h a n

Every Thursday

BIWA Informal Lunch Noon at Ono's Bene City in Busan. biwa-korea.com 010-8568-1888 Wednesday, September 1st

BIWA Coffee Morning 10 am - 12 pm at the Starbucks in Pale De Cz, next to the Paradise Hotel in Busan.

Non-members welcome. biwa-korea.com Thursday, September 2nd

AUSTCHAM Breakfast with Professor Lyn Beazley Grand Hyatt Hotel. 7:30 - 9:30 am.

Non-members W50,000. austchamkorea.org

2010 Commonwealth Chambers Networking Evening Join AUSTCHAM, BCCK, CANCHAM, ICCK and the Kiwi Chamber for a networking opportunity with the nations of the commonwealth. Grand Hyatt Hotel, Waterfall Garden. 6:30 – 9 pm. Non-members W70,000 (includes buffet dinner, beverages and taxes). canchamkorea.org

SIWA Newcomers' Meeting If you are new to Seoul or to SIWA, this meeting is a great chance to get to know more about the organization and the city of Seoul. Seoul Club. 10 - 11:30 am. W8,000. siwapage.com Friday, September 3rd

Leeum Samsung Museum of Art Guided Tour Join the SIWA ladies for an English-guided visit of the traditional section of the Leeum Samsung Museum of Art and the Hong-do Kim special exhibition. Meet at Hangang-jin Station, exit 1. 10 am - 1 pm. Non-members W30,000. siwapage.com Saturday, September 4th

AMCHAM Labor Day Picnic 2010 Misari Public Park, Mini Soccer Field. 11 am

- 3 pm. Adults W50,000, children W35,000, children under 8 free. amchamkorea.org Wednesday, September 8th

Hantaek Botanical Garden Tour Join the SIWA ladies for an English-guided tour of Korea’s biggest botanical garden. Meet at the Freedom Center lower parking lot (next to Seoul Club). 8:30 am - 3 pm. Non-members W40,000 (includes transportation, admission and lunch). siwapage.com Friday, September 10th

AWC Coffee Morning with Concierge K James Kim from Concierge K, a nationwide lifestyle management company for expats in Korea, will be giving tips on how to make your life abroad simpler and more enjoyable. Seoul Club. 9:30 am - noon. Non-members W15,000. awcseoul.org Saturday, September 11th

ANZA Membership Sign-Up Night and Bledisloe Cup BBQ Join ANZA, AUSTCHAM and the Kiwi Chamber for a BBQ dinner, unlimited beverages and live coverage of the game. Millenium Seoul Hilton Hotel. 6 pm. W50,000. anzakorea.com Monday, September 13th - Friday, October 1st

Business Start-Up School for Foreigners The Seoul Global Business Team welcomes you to the 3rd session of their Business Startup School, a program that offers expats a chance to learn from helpful courses and network with colleagues. Seoul Global Center.

Free. global.seoul.go.kr 02-2075-4139

Thursday, September 16th

Han River Cycling Tour Join the SIWA ladies for a relaxing morning bike tour along the Han River. Meet at Oksu Station. 10 am – noon. Non-members W5,000. siwapage.com Wednesday, September 22nd

Terrace Café Networking Club Every 4th Wednesday, the Terrace Café at the Novotel Daegu hosts a social networking party with unlimited French wine, beer and buffet food. Everyone is welcome. 7:30 – 9:50 pm.

W25,000 + tax. RSVP at info@novoteldaegu. com or 053-664-1169 Tuesday, September 28th

BASS Monthly Meeting The British Association of Seoul is hosting its monthly get together. Catch up with friends and sign up for BASS events. All are welcome at this relaxed morning tea. Seoul Club. 10 am - noon. Non-members W14,000. britishseoul.com Amcham American Chamber of Commerce ANZA Australian and New Zealand

Association of Korea Austcham Australian Chamber of Commerce AWC American Women’s Club BASS British Association of Seoul BCCK British Chamber of Commerce Korea BIWA Busan International Women’s

Association CANCHAM Canadian Chamber of Commerce ICCK Indian Chamber of Commerce in Korea SIWA Seoul International Women’s

Association

Wednesday, September 15th

SIWA Coffee Morning This monthly get-together is a chance to make new friends and chat with old ones. There will also be an interest group sign-up for members to take a class and learn something new, with more than 20 classes to choose from. Grand Ambassador Hotel. 9:30 - 11:30 am. Nonmembers W17,000. siwapage.com

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NETWORKING CALENDAR 10 Magazine September 2010 | 71

Good Touch, Bad Touch Words by Ada m Boot h e , I llustration by lu k e m a rt i n

K

oreans have some unusual ideas concerning the appro- Piggy if this were to become a Lord of the Flies type thing. No priate amount of what I refer to as man-space. Man- one wants to be Piggy. space can be defined as the distance that you feel necGoing out with Korean friends offers more chances for inapessary between you and all others of the male species. It’s a pro- propriate touching. Drinking with friends, I am often hugged and tective aura of sorts. This concept of man-space is not born from held. Every few minutes there is a mini-celebration. Guys throw homophobia; in fact, it is much more utilitarian. their arms around me without hesitation. But it’s cool, accordEveryone can benefit from man-space. Man-space can protect ing to the man-space rules, because we are drinking. However, you from such threats as uncomfortable shoulder rubbing, myste- even the drinking rule has its limitations. Korean men are fond of rious smells emanating from strangers, awkward seating arrange- thigh rubbing as a way of showing closeness and camaraderie. I’m ments and the bad touch. Because Korean men have no concept all for respecting cultures and “When in Seoul, do as the Seouof man-space, they fail to distinguish between good touches and lites,” but I’m not trying to let someone get to second base just so bad touches. he can save face. What kind of guy do they think I am?

Coming from the South, I grew up with a very traditional Despite my minor complaints, women here have it much worse. (read: unenlightened) concept of good versus bad touches. It was Crowded subways can be a nightmare of prodding and pinching. simple: any touch coming from a dude was a bad touch. Obvi- Unwittingly, I was once guilty of this myself. During rush hour ous exceptions could be made during sporting events or while we were all packed in to the subway car. My hands were stuck intoxicated and, more often than not, these exceptions were not inside my hoodie’s front pocket with my iPod. We were smashed mutually exclusive. High five: good, butt in pretty tight for a few stops. I was grab: bad. Butt grab after a touchdown: zoning out and started skipping tracks good. on my MP3 player. After a few songs, When I f irst ar rived, I was taken I realized that my tiny finger motion aback by the lack of man-space that was rubbing against the backside of Koreans showed to one another. It wasn’t the woman in front of me. Immedijust that the holiness of man-space was ately I straightened up and looked being violated; it was that the violaaround in an attempt to appear innotion was welcomed and encouraged. I cent, as if someone else had reached remember I once walked into my classover and fondled her, not the guy stuck room at an intensive private camp. The right behind her. I did my best to look university-aged males were all napping casual, preparing to ignore her gaze. on the floor, scattered everywhere like But, the gaze never came. She outfallen soldiers. When they saw me they ignored me. She let me slide because motioned me over. One guy tapped his that sort of thing just happens. I realthigh to indicate that it might make a ized that’s the best strategy when dealsuitable pillow. I disagreed and sat away ing with bad touches: just ignore them. from them. I have seen enough prison Since then, I have gotten over my rigid movies to know how that scene ends. My idea of man-space. Some touches are shape and appearance would make me © Luke Martin. All rights reserved. ROKETSHIP neither good nor bad, they just are.

Subscribe to 10 because staring at an iPod on the toilet is just weird.

W29,000 for a year W15,000 for 6 months subscribe@10magazine.asia 02-3447-1610 www.10magazine.asia 72 | 10 Magazine September 2010

The New Shinhan Seoul Global Center The new Shinhan branch exclusively for foreigners.

Put Korea's Leading Bank to Work for You!

Shinhan Bank’s extraordinary new Shinhan Seoul Global Center has been made with Korean visitors and expats in mind.

Boasting a beautiful new facility conveniently located in the heart of downtown Seoul and a completely bilingual staff catering specifically to the needs of non-Korean customers, the center is truly the long-awaited answer to the prayers of the foreign community in Korea.

With services range from opening new accounts, Internet banking, credit card applications to foreign exchange, the Shinhan Seoul Global Center is your one-stop shop for all your international banking needs.

t 0OF TUPQ QBDLBHF GPS FYQBUT Banking products, credit cards, phone, Internet, safe deposit box, guide books t .VMUJ MJOHVBM 'JOBODJBM $POTVMUJOH English, Japanese, Chinese and Korean t 1FSTPOBMJ[FE 1SJWBUF #BOLJOH 4FSWJDFT t 4NBMM (SPVQ 'JOBODJBM $FOUFST t -VYVSJPVT 'BDJMJUZ Including meeting rooms available to exclusively to Shinhan customers t 1SJNF -PDBUJPO in the heart of downtown Seoul

S H I N H A N BA N K S E O UL GLO BA L C E N T E R 100-768 1st Floor, Seoul Finance Center 84 Taepyungro 1-ga Jung-gu Seoul. Phone: 02 -773-3131, Fax: 02-773-3164