10 Magazine April 2011 by 10 Media

Art • Theater • Concerts • Film • Community • Fitness • Dine & Drink • Nightlife • TRAVEL

Korea awaits! • april 2011 VOL. 3 NO. 7

외국인의 한국생활 노하우

The L a nd of the Morning Foursome World #2 Lee Westwood Joins Ernie Els and Others in Korea for The Ballentine's Championship

H itting the Links Kor ea n Style Amazing Virtual Golf (Or "Screen Golf" As The Locals Say)

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ial c e p S Golf ! Issue

is more than just a magazine...

ART r THEATER r CONCERTS r FILM r COMMUNITY r FITNESS r DINE & DRINK r NIGHTLIFE r TRAVEL

KOREA AWAITS! t FEBRUARY 2011 VOL. 3 NO. 5

외국인의 한국생활 노하우

Shijang Korea s Amazing Markets

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It’s the total package.

april 2011 vol. 3 No. 7 37 Calendar Cover: Varekai

Blog of the Month, Korea by the Numbers

See the stats on Korean readers and read up on ROK Drop.

Cirque du Soleil returns to Korea after an absence of two years.

40 Korean Book Reviews

Reader’s 10: Favorite Place to Shop

Satisfy your literary craving with short fiction and one long walk.

42 Craftworks Taphouse

Find out where our readers like to drop the big bucks.

They’re doing the brews right, and the food’s not that bad either.

10 Questions with TBS President Joon-ho Lee Meet the man behind Seoul’s English-language radio.

History: Introducing Incheon

Incheon has changed a lot in the past 100 years, starting with its name.

47 Expat Theater

Shot by Tay lor S loa n

Shakespeare, adoption, and Vegas are the themes of this month’s theater.

49 ANZA Ball

Featuring big band-themed group The Rat Pack’s Back.

61 Korean Destination: Namwon

Taste of Korea: Jajangmyeon

If you’re tired of big-city living, try the slower way of life in Namwon.

64 Il Sole

Korea’s Black Day isn’t about goths or racism—it’s about these yummy black noodles.

Don’t miss the goodies at Busan’s newest ristorante.

66 Golf Courses of Jeju

In the Kitchen: Pietro Androsoni

These affordable courses make it easy to golf on the island.

For this Florentine chef, culinary excellence depends on sticking with tradition.

Expat Expertise: Yoga Learn more about the health benefits of this Eastern discipline.

Korean Destination: Islands of Incheon

There’s much more to Incheon than the airport.

Shot by B r i a n Mille r

Fun on the Fairway

Korea’s biggest golfing event, the 2011 Ballantine’s Championship, will be held at the end of this month, bringing top athletes from around the globe. 10 gives you tips on how to catch a round, crash a course, and even make a virtual hole-in-one.

Eric Benet For information about performances by Gilberto Gil, Ne-Yo, MGMT, Incognito, and Eric Benet, see the Seoul calendar on p. 42.

10 Magazine, 10 Years from Now

arch 30th, 2011, is the 70th birthday of 10’s biggest fan: my mom, Catherine Rose Revere. Hence, as the April issue of 10 Magazine is released, I’ll be on my way to the US to celebrate her gohee (고희), or 70th birthday party. In a country where respect for elders is (was?) cherished, Korea has names for the major ceremonies and celebrations marking the achievement of old age. A 60th birthday party is called a hwan-gap (환갑), while the aforementioned gohee is of course an even bigger celebration. As my parents get to that age, of course I wonder what my future and that of 10 hold in store when I turn 70. What will 10 have become at that point? Will it still be around? Will these last 3 years of effort, stress and lost sleep have been worth it? Will 10 still be helping expats and tourists enjoy Korea? Will I still be living in Korea? This sort of contemplation leads you to wonder what your real goals are in life and in business. I suppose there’s a certain irony in the fact that the biggest goal of any entrepreneur worth their salt is to build something that will outlast them. Some entrepreneurs and businesspeople go into it for the money, the glory and/ or the ability to boss people around. They don’t last long - I’ve seen plenty of examples firsthand. The history of expats in Korea is littered with newsletters, magazines, clubs, groups, meet-ups and websites that were started and fueled by the enthusiasm of their leaders for a while and then fizzled out after those leaders lost their enthusiasm, went on to other projects or just went home. A few major exceptions

come to mind, such as the Seoul International Women’s Association and the Seoul Club (Congrats to the members on keeping the Seoul Club alive by the way!), but there certainly aren’t many that have stood the test of time, and none of them are in print media. For that matter, who knows how much longer print media itself will survive? That’s not what I want for 10, and that’s the irony. I’m trying to build up 10 to the point where it will not only survive without me, but thrive without me, and have people who believe in it and care about it as much as I do now. And of course to do that we have to balance our mission and our values with more practical limitations like capital and time. We’re nowhere near where I hope to get yet, but thanks to our terrific employees, contributors and interns, we’re certainly on our way. And I look forward to writing you another From the Editor celebrating 10’s terrific achievements as I depart for my mother’s 80th birthday in 2021. Steph en R ev er e M a n ag i n g E ditor

A Shot of Korean by Stephen Revere

내 말을 씹지마 [nae mar-eul sship-ji-ma] : Don’t ignore me / Don’t ignore what I said. 씹다 (sship-da) originally means “to chew” or “to bite.” Its slang usage, however, refers to completely ignoring someone. How it made that leap, don’t ask me. But you’ll certainly hear it used as slang much more often in the negative command, low form. In other words, 지마 (ji-ma) is added onto the end, meaning, “don’t.” You put the thing that was ignored just before the verb, and that is usually something someone said or sent. Ignoring text messages is something that commonly happens which many find annoying.

내 문자 씹었어. [nae munja sshib-eoss-eo] - (He/she) ignored my text. Check out Survival Korean and Survival Korean: Basic Grammar Skills for more Korean lessons from 10’s Managing Editor, Stephen Revere.

4 | 10 Magazine April 2011

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Sarah Carr (p. 16) spent her girlhood in a little seashore tow n i n New Hampshire, so she loves the ocean. She also loves exploring the rest of the world, and she hearts her current home in Seoul. One of the wonders Sarah most enjoys consuming and creating is the written word. She also likes children, jewelry, animals, t he out door s, helpi ng and most things that are intrinsically good in one way or another.

Judith Ann Clancy (p. 60) is from Toronto, Ontario. When she is not bouncing from place to place in Korea, you can find her working on one of her many hobbies. Judith was trained in film, but currently pursues writing, fashion and photography. Her work can be found at jacthegirl.com.

Grace Lee is from Manchester, Connecticut and has been in Korea for a year and a half. Currently she is studying Korean and designing for the best English magazine (that’s us!). She enjoys the arts, d e s i g n i n g , t r a ve l i n g , watching movies, finding great places to eat, and sleeping.

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Contributors Lucy Beauclair, Michael Berry, Sarah Carr, Paul Charles, Judith Clancy, Andy Clay Matthew Crawford, Samantha Dix-Hill, Curtis File Ciaran Hickey, Angela Jacobus, Angela Lee Grace Lee, Minjung Lee, Song Lee, Sun-kyung Lee Mike Luedke, Stafford Lumsden, Paul Matthews Daniel McNamee, Joe McPherson, Brian Miller Charles Montgomery, Ji-sun Moon, Robert Neff Danny O’Sullivan, Anna Orzel, Taylor Sloan Patrick Volz, Malcolm Wrest, Lisa Xing Soyeon Kimberly Yoon

Veteran golfer Lee Westwood takes a swing on this month’s cover. He was ranked the world’s number 1 golfer from October 31st, 2010 to February 26th of this year, when he was ousted from the top spot by Martin Kaymer. You can see Westwood at this month’s Ballantine’s Championship, to be held in Icheon just south of Seoul (see p. 24 for more).

“Like” us? Malcolm Wrest (p. 20) is in the twelfth year of his temporary stay in Korea, and perhaps consequentially is now “a wife, two children and three dogs” further down the track of life. Hailing from Melb ou r ne, Au s t r a l ia , he enjoys a variety of outdoor pursuits and would rate the time he has spent in Korea as some of his happiest years to date.

6 | 10 Magazine April 2011

Due to an u nfor t u nate home-brewing accident (t u r n s o u t k i m c h i i s not the safe basis for a h efe we i z e n), C h a r l e s M o n t g o m e r y ( p . 4 0) is stepping down as 10 Magazine book reviewer. When (and if ) his wits gather again, he will be working on longer pieces, which you can look for in 10 Magazine or on his Korean Modern Literature blog at ktlit.com.

B r i a n M i l l e r ( p. 2 4) is f rom G r a nd Haven, Michigan but spends most of his weekends trudging around the backcountry of Jeju taking pictures of shrines, dormant volcanoes and burial mounds. He’s a freelance writer and photographer and has just published a photo book about Jeju Island called The Village across the Sea (reviewed in the Febr uar y edition). You can check out his photos at baraka.zenfolio.com.

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10 Magazine April Vol. 3 No. 7 등록번호: 용산 라 00184 (Registration: Yongsan Ra 00184) Address 서울시 용산구 이태원로 211 한남빌딩 10층 10th floor Hannam Buildling 211 Itaewonro, Seoul 140-893 Phone 02-3447-1610 www.10mag.com 10 Magazine is published monthly by 10 Media Inc. © All Rights Reserved.

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Watching the tragedy in Japan has left all of us in shock. As this issue of 10 Magazine goes to print, there has been over a week of devastation there, starting with the earthquake and the tsunami, followed by the current nuclear crisis and the potential meltdown. It appears as though the recent snow could result in floods as it melts, and lack of sanitation has raised the threat of the spread of infectious diseases. Obviously, we all want to do what we can to help. Be sure to send information for any fundraisers you plan to hold to calendar@10mag.com! We’ll promote the events through our magazine, our website, our Facebook page, and our Weekly 10 email. Get the word out through 10 and let’s get more food, water, and assistance to our neighbors to the East.

Blog of the Month

De ar 10 M aga z i n e ,

I am a travel agent from Lion Travel Taiwan. And, I am your loyal reader. I really like the content you guys provide. Korea’s food killed me every time. Haha~ I think that you guys could add more Korean food articles…. It would be better for me. Cause I’m a spicy food lover. Cheers up. Marcus Lin, Taiwan We really want to thank you for your email! It’s nice to hear that we have a reader in Taiwan who is enjoying our magazine. We’ll be sure to print your letter in next month’s magazine. Just curious - do you subscribe? How do you read our magazine? 10

10 ’ s R e p ly

M a r c u s ’ s R e p ly Actually, I subscribed to the magazine and the weekly newsletter from the 10 Magazine website since one year ago. And due to my job, I need to go to Korea frequently. I really like Korea’s style, art and culture. Also, Korean girl is hot. Haha! Anyway, no matter where we from, it about what we love. Please keep writing all the time. I’m really exited about seeing the next article. Marcus Lin, Taiwan

Korea by the Numbers

34.6 16.6 4.5

The percentage of Korean adults who didn’t read a single book in 2010. This was 28.3% in 2009. The average number of books read in 2010 by Korean readers. This was 15.3 in 2009. The percentage of adults who listed reading as their favorite leisure activity. Reading was ranked seventh in the survey after watching TV (28.7%), surfing the internet (12.7%), sleeping/resting (9.5%), exercising (6.9%), meeting friends (5.6%), and doing housework (4.9%).

Bestsellers at Kyobo Books in 2010

1 Justice: What’s the Right Thing to Do? by Michael J. Sandel (Ethics. USA) 2 Deokhyeongju: The Last Princess of Joseon by Bi-yeong Kwon (Fiction. Korea) 3 1Q84 by Murakami Haruki (Fiction. Japan) 4 Beautiful Ending by Ven. Beop Jeong (Essay. Korea) 5 The 25 Things You Regret On Your Deathbed by Otsu Shuichi (Essay. Japan) Source: Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism, 2010; Kyobo Books

Subscribe today for 45% off the cover price! W29,000 for a year • W15,000 for 6 months subscribe@10magazine.asia, 02-3447-1610, www.10mag.com 8 | 10 Magazine April 2011

ROK Drop rokdrop.com

Read enough English-language blogs on Korea and you’ll discover that most of the people who publish online are English teachers. One notable exception is ROK Drop, a blog by an active-duty US service member who goes by the moniker of GI Korea. While US soldiers don’t always have the most positive reputation among Koreans and expats in Korea, few have a chance to tell their side of the story. But ROK Drop provides an intelligent insider’s perspective on the often-criticized United States Forces Korea. Scroll through the archives to find fascinating posts that deal with many of the thorny subjects that have tarnished the reputations of US forces here. One of the most fascinating is GI Korea’s comprehensive account of the events surrounding the deaths of Shim Misun and Shin Hyo-sun, who were run over by an American armored vehicle in June of 2002 (posted on June 13th, 2008, the 6th anniversary of the tragedy). The incident provoked intense anti-Americanism at the time, one of the primary reasons that GI Korea started his blog. Other interesting posts include a discussion of crimes committed by US soldiers and an essay on the Korean War massacre at No Gun Ri. Though the blogger is no longer on the peninsula, ROK Drop continues to be updated regularly, and has a community of commenters who are in their own way as dedicated as any. Readers may not always agree with GI Korea’s conservative takes on politics and current events, but they will certainly find plenty of food for thought.

THE READER'S 10

What Is Your Favorite Place to Shop in Korea?

ust try to go a single day without stumbling upon a clothing vendor, retail outlet, or department store. It’s an impossible feat! Of course, it’s not always quite as easy to find a shopping spot that suits your particular needs and tastes. With so many options out there, we wanted you to find out where you like to shop for our April Reader’s 10. So what location came out on top in this consumer-frenzy peninsula? Was it the frantic streets of Myeongdong? The endless rows of products at Namdaemun? Or the dizzying selections online on Gmarket? We’ve calculated all the votes and here are the top 10 places where you like to shop til you drop. And the winner? Well, it’s not in Seoul!

10. Gmarket english.gmarket.co.kr 9. Insadong 8. Dongdaemun Market 7. Times Square Mall 6. High Street Market in Itaewon 5. Emart 4. Homeplus 3. Myeongdong 2. Costco

1 Underground Grocers in Gwangju ugfoods.co.kr Now that we’ve found out where our readers like to splurge on payday, we’d like to move on to what they do on game day. With the NHL playoffs starting on April 13th and the NBA postseason beginning on April 18th, we thought it would be only appropriate to find out where you go to watch these and other games. So here’s the Reader’s 10 question for May:

What’s your favorite public establishment for watching sporting events? A black hole of a bar filled with crazed fans yelling at the television screen? A hole-in-the-wall where everyone knows your name? We want to know just which public venue offers the best sporting event-watching experience. Make nominations on our open thread through April 5th and place your vote at the same place from April 6th – April 16th. It all happens at 10mag.com/ readers10. 10 Magazine April 2011 | 9

10 Qu estions

E dited by Dav i d C a r r u t h , s h ots by Pau l M at t h e w s

Joon-ho Lee

President of TBS (Traffic Broadcasting System)

Joon-ho Lee considers himself a very lucky man. He began his career as a reporter with KBS, and his appointment as president of TBS a few years ago means that he will be ending his broadcasting career at the top of his game. But it’s not only his business success that makes him happy. Rather, it’s his conviction that his work is worth doing and is rewarding. In this interview, Mr. Lee shares more about how TBS is providing a valuable service to English-speakers in Korea.

readers is 101.3 eFM, an all-English radio station for foreigners in Seoul. We also have TV and radio stations offered on DMB. Up until recently our DMB radio was broadcast in Korean, but in mid-March we switched over to English-language content. 2. Some of our readers might not be sure what DMB is. Can you explain what it is? Of course. DMB, which means digital media broadcasting, is a Korean technology that allows video and audio to be streamed to mobile devices, car navigation systems, laptops, and other devices. Korean smart phones and even a lot of ordinary phones can use DMB, and it means that you can listen to radio programs without a radio receiver. 3. TBS eFM has only been in operation since late December 2008. How did the radio station come to be? Our listeners should be grateful to President Myung-bak Lee, 1. In Japan, TBS is the Tokyo Broadcasting System, and in the US, it’s the Turner Broadcasting Station. What is TBS in who decided that Seoul needed a good English-language radio station. When the Korea Communications Commission sent out a Korea? TBS stands for the Traffic Broadcasting System, a media out- call for businesses to manage the station, we were quick to apply. let supported by the city of Seoul that encompasses five separate In the end, our access to information about the city of Seoul and our twenty years of experience in the services. First, there’s FM 95.1, a Koreanradio business, along with generous fundlanguage radio station which provides ing promised by Seoul Mayor Se-hoon information about traffic on the streets of One of the inherent Oh, helped make our bid successful. Seoul, among other things. Next, there’s difficulties in running a 4. What is the main target audience of a TBS TV station. More relevant to your radio station is that our TBS eFM? listeners are of many Our primary purpose is to provide different ages and their quality information about life in Seoul tastes in music differ: for foreigners living and visiting here. These make up our primary target audisome people like K-pop girl ence. Now of course, of the 1,000,000 groups, while others want

10 Magazine April 2011

to listen to Tom Jones.

foreigners living in Korea, the majority are not Westerners and don’t speak English, so the pool of potential English-speaking listeners is relatively small. This means that the majority of our listeners are Koreans who want to work on their English. Even so, our main goal remains providing useful information about living in Korea. 5. TBS eFM isn’t the only English-language radio station in Korea. How are you different from AFN, EBS, and Arirang? Though there are a number of other English-language radio stations on the air, TBS eFM is the only one that provides general information for the average foreigner in Seoul. AFN (American Forces Network) is broadcast for American troops; Arirang is marketed to overseas listeners, and EBS is an educational station that teaches English to Koreans. TBS eFM is accessible and enjoyable for the average person. 6. What sort of response have you gotten from listeners so far? We’ve heard from our Korean listeners that TBS eFM stands out from the other English-language broadcasters, and many of our foreign listeners have said that they find our content useful. We continue to monitor our listeners’ feedback through our Audience Committee. These ten members, who are regular listeners (and viewers) of TBS stations, have a meeting each month to provide us with the consumer perspective. Since the introduction of TBS eFM, three foreigners have been present on this panel to complement the Korean panelists. 7. What complaints have listeners expressed? One of the inherent difficulties in running a radio station like this is that our listeners are of many different ages and it’s simply impossible to satisfy all of them. People’s tastes in music differ: some people like K-pop girl groups, while others want to listen to Tom Jones. Another issue had to do with the accents of our hosts. Some Korean listeners have complained about the use of people with Australian, English, or German accents (as opposed to American). But we think a variety of accents is important in representing the global scope of the language. 8. Has TBS eFM expanded into some other markets? Our motto is to be “the flagship station of English radio in Korea,” and we are ready to support local stations that want to begin broadcasting in English. Currently, in addition to Seoul, there are TBS eFM affiliate radio stations in Gwangju (98.7 FM) and Busan (90.5 FM). These cities don’t have the resources or infrastructure to produce 24 hours of radio a day, so we provide them with a lot of our content. Currently, Gwangju is syndicating 18 hours a day of TBS content with 6 hours produced in studio. Busan has a mix of Arirang and TBS content as well as some of their own shows. 9. Are there any other cities that are planning on opening English radio stations soon? Other cities that we are currently in dialogue with are Ulsan, Daejeon, and Daegu. The current proposal is that TBS would provide about 80% of their programming. The problem is that these cities want to get funding from the city of Seoul, while Seoul is of the opinion that the cities should fund their projects themselves. 10. What recommendations do you have for new visitors to Korea? There are plenty of beautiful places to visit as the weather gets warmer. In particular, I think that Deoksu Palace in Seoul is an excellent example of the distinct Korean characteristic of jak-jiman agijagi-hada: small but charming. Another thing I’d recommend to people who want to understand Korea better is to travel around the peninsula and just talk to people. Of course, it will help if you can speak some Korean! Also, get advice from other foreigners. I’m often surprised to find that foreigners who live in Seoul are more attuned to what makes the city so great than I am. 10 Magazine April 2011 | 11

history

Entrance to a Great Adventure sold merchandise, generally American and European goods, to local Korean merchants. Chinese and Japanese tailors kept the merchants well-dressed, a couple of Japanese banks protected their profits, and a few small churches protected their souls. Like most port cities in the world, Chemulpo had a rough side n 1896, William Franklin Sands, a young American diplomat newly assigned to Korea, described Chemulpo to it. Large transient populations of merchants, sailors, and even (modern Incheon) as “an unattractive entrance to a great vagabonds seeking “opportunities” frequented the bars, tea housadventure.” His initial impression of the city’s appear- es and houses of ill-repute. The earliest hotels catered not to tourance was somewhat harsh but accurate. Because of the exception- ists and their families (there were few tourists prior to the early al tidal difference of 30 feet, at low tide the port was seemingly twentieth century) but rather to the sailors, offering them a large selection of cheap alcohol and billiard tables and separated from the sea by a vast expanse of female companions for entertainment. mud. This dismalness was further compounded Chemulpo’s whole Surprisingly, crime was not as bad as one by the bare slopes of the surrounding hills. But Chemulpo had a charm that we are able constabulary consisted might imagine. According to Sands, Chemulpo’s “whole constabulary consisted of one very to glean through some of Sands’ and other early of one very old and old and respectable Chinese night watchman Westerners’ accounts. Chemulpo was full of respectable Chinese with a huge sleep-dispelling wooden clapper.” contrasts and the melding of Eastern and Westnight watchman with a The watchman wandered the streets at night ern cultures which now form the foundation of huge sleep-dispelling announcing his approach with a clap-clap-clap modern Incheon. wooden clapper. The sound. As the foreign population grew, residents First opened to the West in 1882, Chemulpo began to complain of the sound, and the hapless began as a small Korean village consisting of watchman wandered Chinese watchman was fired and replaced with “about two dozen straggling huts” but by 1886 the streets at night a recently discharged Western sailor. had grown into a full-f ledged open port. The announcing his Almost immediately, a crime wave rocked Korean community consisted of over 120 houses approach with a clapthe community. According to the Chinese conand some 700 people, in addition to the three clap-clap sound. sul at the time, when a Chinese “thief goes out foreign settlements: the Japanese, Chinese and to steal he knows that Heaven is watching him. others. These made up a permanent population of about 200 Chinese, 240 Japanese (112 of them women) and a hand- If, then, he hears the voice of the wooden clapper approaching, ful of Westerners including French, Russian, German, American, it is the voice of Heaven to his guilty conscience and he flees British and an elegant Spanish woman married to a former Chi- the spot.” The Western constable, however, was so quiet that the nese diplomat she had met while she had graced the stage in Paris thief did not realize he was near and thus became emboldened. The Chinese consul further noted, “It is not Europeans who are in the late 1870s. Entrepreneurs – mainly Chinese and Japanese but also a few doing these burglaries.” After a little deliberation, the Chemulpo Germans, Americans, British, and other Westerners – established Municipal Committee quickly agreed to rehire the Chinese night their stores along the long streets that graced the city. Much of watchman and, sure enough, the crime wave ended. There were, however, crimes committed by Westerners – gentheir business dealt in supplying the Western naval vessels that, as the years passed, visited the port more frequently. They also erally sailors and transients – though they were often nothing

Sailors, adventurers, diplomats, and businessmen made up the initial foreign community in Chemulpo, known today as Incheon.

12 10 Magazine April 2011

Chemulpo in the 1910s Next page, top: Chemulpo in the 1880s, bottom: circa 1910 Pictures from the collection of Robert Neff

Words BY Robert Neff

more than simple assaults or petty thefts (often influenced by the constant presence of alcohol). These criminals were often apprehended by the constabulary and, if members of the navy, taken to their ship’s commander for punishment. Non-military offenders were transferred to the appropriate embassy in Seoul or one of the three consulates in Chemulpo. The Japanese, Chinese and British all maintained consulates at Chemulpo (whereas the Americans built one but never used it and eventually sold it). While the Japanese and Chinese consulates were fine buildings, they perhaps lacked the character of the British consulate. The Royal Oak, a large saloon in Nagasaki, was purchased by the British government, dismantled and then shipped to Chemulpo where it was reassembled and put to use as the British consulate. It was a less-than-ideal building and was described by an early visitor, the elderly but intrepid English explorer and traveler Isabella Bird Bishop, as “comfortless and unworthy”—harsh words from a woman who often slept in the most severe wilderness. Her observation, however, seems to have held some truth. When British consul Henry Bencraft Joly died there in 1898, his death was partially blamed upon the draftiness of the old building. Although more than a hundred years have passed since Chemulpo became an open port, many of the late Renaissancestyle churches and banks yet remain. Even the Chinese and Japanese settlements still retain much of their original charm and provide an interesting contrast of the different cultures. If Sands could see Chemulpo now, he probably wouldn’t describe it as “unattractive,” but he would no doubt still insist that it is the “entrance to a great adventure” in Korea. Ed i t o r ’ s N o t e This is the sixth in an ongoing series of articles by historian Robert Neff. Even more information about late 19th century Korea can be found in Korea Through Western Eyes (2010), co-authored by Neff.

10 Magazine April 2011 | 13

A TASTE OF KOREA

Black Bean Noodles

Shot by Paul Matthews

Jajangmyeon

자장면

W o rds by C i a r an H i c k e y, e x ec u tive c h ef o f t h e w se o u l wa l ker h i l l

If your lack of a love life is getting you down, turn to these black noodles for a quick pick-me-up.

have to admit it—I never liked the look of jajangmyeon. But then again, I was only coming across it on the golf course where it is one of the choices at the half-way snack bar. This probably had something to do with its color and the overuse of cornstarch. Of course, once I had the authentic version, I understood why it’s one of the most, if not the most, popular dish in Korea. Jajangmyeon is basically a dish of noodles covered with a sauce of black bean paste and meat, mostly pork, and vegetables. Despite being one of the unofficial symbols of Korean cuisine and the single most-ordered take-out food in the country, it is in fact an import, brought across from China over 100 years ago and now adjusted to Korean tastes. Let’s start with the noodles, known as sutamyeon (수타면). They are hand-made with regular flour (rather than potato starch like their cousins in japchae) and then quickly blanched in boiling water and set aside for the final preparation. The sauce is made by cooking the vegetables and pork in a pan and then adding the black bean sauce. Next, stock is added to cut the saltiness, and it is finally thickened by adding a little cornstarch, a typical Chinese touch.

No dish is an island in Korea, of course, so there are also side dishes to consider. Danmuji (단무지, yellow pickled turnip) is the usual accompaniment together with a dish of raw onions marinated in rice vinegar. I have also been served a dish of the black bean sauce itself to dip into, although this isn’t really necessary. Ironically, jajangmyeon prepared in the Korean way is now becoming popular back in China, completing the circle started by the Chinese immigrants years ago. But this particular dish’s real claim to fame is the role it plays on Black Day, which takes place on April 14th. On this day, the poor single souls who missed out on the chocolate and gift-giving on Valentine’s Day and White Day get to drown their sorrows with other singletons and eat jajang noodles, the black color representing the gloom of their situation. So if April 14th rolls around and you need something to fill that empty space in your life, call your local restaurant and have a bowl of jajangmyeon sent over. While it may not fill the void in your heart, it will definitely fill your stomach. 10 Tip

If you pay careful attention to spoken Korean, you will eventually hear jajangmyeon pronounced (and even written) as 짜장면 (jjajang-myeon). This isn’t standard Korean, so if you hear your Korean friends make this blunder, you can demonstrate your mastery of the language (and pretentiousness) by correcting them.

Netizen’s Picks

Bokseonggak 복성각 This restaurant is especially popular with young people. Come here to taste unusual jajangmyeon dishes with colorful sauces in yellow or red and a variety featuring flat noodles. 31-8 Changcheondong, Seodaemungu, Seoul. 02-364-1522

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Hyeonraejang 현래장 If you want to see how jajangmyeon noodles are made, this is the place. They’ve been hand-crafting pasta for 60 years, and the chef has appeared on numerous TV shows as a master of the art. Visitors can see him tossing the dough as he prepares your dish. Dabo Building B1, Mapodong 140, Mapogu, Seoul. 02-715-0730

Gonghwachun 공화춘 Opened in 1905, Gonghwachun was the first Chinese restaurant in Korea and not so coincidentally the place where jajangmyeon was first served here. Their old restaurant building is registered as cultural property No. 246, and the current restaurant is housed in a new four-story building about 100m from Incheon Stn. (line 1). China Town, 5-6 Bukseongdong 3-ga, Junggu, Incheon. gonghwachun.co.kr 032-765-0571

IN THE KITCHEN While working as a chef in Cleveland, Tokyo, and Seoul, Chef Pietro Androsoni has applied the culinary principles he learned back in his grandmother’s house in Florence.

s Walking into Between in Itaewon, one is immediately struck by the staff: they glide silently and effortlessly among the diners, re-filling water glasses, taking orders, delivering meals, and clearing plates. They’re thoroughly attentive and professional, almost continental. Which is exactly the way three-star Michelin chef Pietro Androsoni wants it: professional and completely authentic. The 43-year-old chef was born just outside of Florence, Italy. He credits his basic skills and his burning desire to serve fresh food to his grandmother’s tutelage on the family farm. He remembers his grandmother working in the fields and bringing fresh food home to cook every evening. By the age of ten, this ambitious boy had already cooked his first panettone (Italian cake) and announced his intention to become a chef. He moved one step closer to achieving this dream when he was accepted into the prestigious Instituto Profession-

ale Alberghiero Culinary School in Florence and then moved on to attend three-star Michelin restauranteur Enoteca Pinchiorri’s Culinary Arts Program. His career then made an unlikely move, to Cleveland in the United States, where he worked for two years (about this stay the chef jokes, “I was younger!”). This was followed by a year at Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence, where he worked in the pastry and pasta division of the kitchen. In 1992, he received an invitation to open a Tokyo branch of Enoteca Pinchiorri. Moving to Tokyo for “just six months,” he ended up staying 16 years. It was then, as he searched for new fields to conquer, that he turned his eyes to Between in Itaewon. Almost one year ago, he created its entire menu from scratch. The menu is an eclectic one, including seafood, steak, a variety of pastas, Spanish and Italian tapas, and a range of appetizers. Androsoni notes that it wasn’t always smooth going, as Korean expectations of Italian food were often slightly different from his expectations. But by remaining true to his principles, Androsoni has attracted a discerning clientele who appreciate the true-to-Italy flavors of his menu. On a bustling Tuesday night, dashing between his kitchen duties and friendly conversation with customers, Androsoni stops to talk about his philosophy. His focus, he says, is on creating authentic food, and this quest takes him from market to market in Korea, as he locates just the right ingredients for his dishes. And then he’s off again, rushing back to the kitchen to make sure that everything is cooked just right and passes his strict standards of authenticity.

Pietro Androsoni

Executive Chef at Between, Itaewon W o rds A N D S HOT S by C h a r l e s M o n t g o m e r y

Chef Androsini’s Ricotta Crespelle Baked Fiorentino Crepe with Ricotta Cheese, Spinach and Parmesan Cheese In g r e d i e n t s Dressing

• Parmesan cheese • Sprig of basil • Tomato puree

Crepe

• 1 egg • 2 tbsp flour • A dash of salt • Milk (to taste) • Butter (to taste)

Filling

• 100 g Ricotta cheese • 2 tbsp parmesan • 10 g blanched spinach • Nutmeg (to taste)

In s t r u c t i o n s

1 For the crepes, whisk egg and 2 tbsp flour plus pinch of salt. 2 Add milk little by little while checking consistency (pro tip: try using the back of the spoon for this). 3 Cook crepes on very low heat. Crepes can be stored in refrigerator for up to a week, but separate each with plastic wrap. 4 Mix ricotta cheese, parmesan cheese and finely chopped blanched spinach for the filling. 5 Season with nutmeg, salt, and pepper. 10 Magazine April 2011 | 15

Split

Ex pat Ex pertise

Get Your Chakras On W o rds by Sa r a h C a r r , p h oto s c o u rtesy o f Yo g a Pa l ac e

Can yoga really improve your health, aid your balance, focus your concentration, lessen your stress, and increase your endurance? The only way to find out is to give it a try.

Camel

omeone you know practices yoga. Maybe it’s your co-worker with The man who is doing yoga poses in the the toned arms and the curiously calm approach to workplace photos is Ball Rattanapong, 2008 World stressors. Maybe it’s that runner you always cross paths with along Yoga Asana Champion and founder of Yoga Palace in Apgujeong. the Han River on the weekends. Maybe it’s your banker, or your boss, or the unfathomably flexible ajumma you see in the gym doing the splits. Perhaps you’re a practitioner who just hasn’t had time to discover the ideal studio here. While those of us in Seoul are lucky to live in a city full of a myriad of activities from the niche to the mainstream, sometimes what you’re looking for is hidden behind language barriers or lost on ambiguously labeled maps. But that doesn’t have to keep you away from your first yoga class. Likewise, don’t be intimidated by the different class names you may discover on a yoga studio schedule. There are nearly as many schools of yoga as there are rice-based dishes at Kimbab Cheonguk (김밥천국). Different incarnations of yoga all have their own names, but they share a common essence. While we can’t cover them all in a single article, we can give you a basic intro to some of the types of yoga available for practice in Korea.

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Bow

Hat h a yo g a : p o s e s and b r e at h i n g

The term “Hatha” refers to yoga as a physical practice, and it encompasses all the derivatives that branch off of the basic principle of practising the yoga asanas and the pranayama breathing exercises. The word “asana” in yoga-speak means “posture,” and it is used to refer to the stances that an individual will take during the practice. In a yoga class, anytime you find yourself holding a specific posture, you are doing Hatha yoga. Whether you are dripping with sweat and bending it like Bikram or flowing through a Vinyasa series, you are in a sense practicing Hatha yoga. “Pranayama” refers to the breathing exercises that are an equally important part of yoga practice, and during a Hatha yoga class you will be introduced to both pranayama and asanas. The focus will typically be on stretching, breathing, and working your body into asanas and aiming to enter a calm and meditative

Locust Scorpion

state. A Hatha yoga class can be much less physically demanding than a Vinyasa or Bikram class, so if you’d prefer to familiarize yourself with some of the breathing exercises and movements before you shock your hamstrings, try out Hatha first. V i n ya s a yo g a : c e a s e l e s s f l o w

Vinyasa yoga is generally the type of Hatha yoga that is most commonly practiced in the West. The word “Vinyasa” refers to the combination of movements and breathing that the practice involves. In Vinyasa yoga, the transitions between the asanas and the timing of inhalation and exhalation are just as essential as the poses themselves. In Vinyasa yoga, practitioners inhale and exhale at a prescribed time during the postures and transitions. In this way, breath and movement are linked, creating a constant flow of kinetic energy throughout the series of postures. The elements of breath, asana, and transitions create a physically challenging practice with a perpetual flow. Vinyasa is ideal for active types who hope to elicit a heartpumping workout, but since you are free to determine the intensity of your practice, it is fine for beginners, too. English Vinyasa classes are available in Seoul, but even if you jump into a class where the dialogue isn’t in English, you shouldn’t worry too much. The teachers lead the class by demonstration, so you can simply follow along using the universal language of the body.

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Ex pat Ex pertise B i k r am yo g a : s w e at i n g i t o u t

A Bikram yoga class is 90 minutes of practice in a room heated to around 40˚ C (105˚ F) with a humidity level of 40%. The Bikram series is the same every single time, which allows you to focus on 26 Hatha postures and 2 breathing exercises that make up a Bikram class. The asanas in the Bikram series were chosen by the school’s founder because practising them in succession stimulates every muscle, joint and organ in the body. Combined with the intense heat in the studio, these postures help you sweat out the toxins in your body. The feeling that results is soothing and empowering and may just end up being your newest (and healthiest) addiction. Many practitioners are initially attracted to Bikram for the obvious physical benefits. The boost it gives to strength, f lexibility, and balance are so apparent that some NFL athletes have incorporated it into their workout routines. But since its aim

is to improve the student’s overall well-being, including not only the physical but also the mental, Bikram yoga can guide you on your path toward holistic self-improvement. Yo g a and yo u

Whether you are a practitioner well-versed in the art of the sweat, stretch, bend and bow, an athlete looking to add something new to your lifestyle, or just someone with a mild interest in the activity, there is a type of yoga that will suit your interests. Fitness, balance, concentration, weight loss, endurance and mental fortitude are all incidentals that come with learning the postures, so regardless of what attracts you to yoga, you’re likely to reap more benefits than you initially anticipated. “The positive impact yoga has on my life makes me recommend it for so many reasons,” says Patty Blake, an expat who has lived in Seoul for over a year and just returned from a Yoga Teacher Training program in India. “It is so beneficial mentally and physically, and it’s a healthy way to deal with the inevitable stress that comes with any life, especially one you are living in a foreign country. It’s a great way to meet and interact with Koreans and people that share your interests, and in many ways I’ve built my life around it.”

The Eight Limbs of Yoga Standing bow

These foundations of yoga were written down around 200 CE (yoga has certainly aged well!). Limbs three and four—asanas and pranayama—are what you’ll focus on in most classes. Yama universal morality Niyama personal observances Asanas body postures Pranayama breathing exercises Pratyahara control of the senses Dharana concentration and cultivation of inner perceptual awareness Dhyana devotion, meditation on the divine Samadhi union with the divine

Peacock

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english speaking Yoga Classes Across the Country In Seoul Bikram Yoga Gangnam. Learn the original Bikram Yoga with this affiliated studio, located near Sinnonhyeon Stn. (line 9, ex. 7). 4F Seokwon Building, 1303-6 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu. bikramyogakorea.co.kr 02-532-2101 Drishti Yoga Myeongdong. Myeongdong Stn. (line 4, ex. 8). On the website, find the map under the second tab of the Drishti Yoga menu. 5F Handeok Building, 65-6 Chungmuro 2-ga, Jung-gu. drishtiyoga.co.kr 02-319-5655 Hot Yoga Korea Banpo. You’ll see the Hot Yoga franchise all over Seoul. One branch is located at Express Bus Terminal Stn. (lines 3, 7, 9, ex. 8-1). Walk straight till you see the entrance to the establishment. Kristin’s English Vinyasa class is at 8 pm on Wednesdays. 02-593-9988. B1 Ildong Building, 75-10 Jamwondong, Seocho-gu. JAI Center for Yoga and Health Apgujeong. Sinsa Stn. (line 3, ex. 4). Turn right at the second alley and it’s on the left. An English Vinyasa class is held at 4:30 on Sundays. 5F Naksan Plaza, 570-12 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu. jaicenter.co.kr 02-3443-9642 Magic Pond Yoga Yeouido. Located at the World Gym just next to the 63 Building in Yeouido, a short cab ride from Yeouinaru Stn. (line 5) or Saetgang Stn. (line 9). See the map on the website. 3F River Tower Building, 61-5 Yeouido-dong, Yeongdeungpo-gu. rajayoga.co.kr 010-3689-1799 Mind Body Seoul Itaewon. This is a multipurpose space in Itaewon that offers yoga classes in different disciplines, among other interesting activities. Check their English website for more. 1F, Mind Body Seoul, 732-15 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu. mindbodyseoul.kr 010-8580-7430 New York Wholistic Care Itaewon. Get your yoga classes customized for your particular needs at this wellness center. 2F, 736-21 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu. nywc.co.kr 02-792-2296 Yoga Palace Sinsa. Learn yoga from a world champion! Ball Rattanapong, 2008 World Yoga Asana Champion, along with his sisters Fame and Fair started this center to share their knowledge and talents. Bikram yoga is the only discipline offered here. It’s easily accessible via bus (stop at the Galleria or Designer Club) or a taxi ride from Apgujeong Stn. (line 3, ex. 2). The website has a map in English and Korean. 666-4 Bosung Building, Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu. yoga-palace.com 02-544-7771

Outside of Seoul Ayurveda Yoga Academy Daegu. Two studios in one city, and Saturday classes in English! ayurvedayogastudio.blogspot.com Gwangju Yoga Gwangju. Saturday 4:30 - 6 pm and Tuesday evening 6 - 7:30 pm above the Underground Grocers in downtown Gwangju. Check out their Facebook page for contact information. Yoga Life Bundang. Take the Bundang line to Ori Stn. (ex. 3) for this branch of the chain. It’s on the 6th floor of the building directly in front of the exit. Classes in English are on Tuesday and Thursday at 7:40 pm. The website is in Korean, so you may want to call directly. #601, 185-1 Gumi-dong, Bundang-gu, Seongnam-si, Gyeonggi-do. yogalife.co.kr 010-2791-0106 Yoga V&A Busan. In addition to these classes, the gym at Pusan National University also offers yoga classes including one in English to members. 3F Haeundae Centum Hotel, 1505 Woo 2-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan. yogav.co.kr 051-720-8030 10 Magazine April 2011 | 19

korean desti nation Neungdong Jagal Madang, Deokjeok Island

Incheon’s Idyllic Islands W o rds B Y M a l c o l m W r e s t

Special thanks to the Incheon Tourism Department for its gracious assistance

Daebu, Jebu, Yeongjong, and Ganghwa—these are just a few of the islands to be found off the coast of Incheon.

number of outstanding weekend retreats on peaceful islets with stunning coastal scenery lie far closer than you might commonly imagine. The rugged beauty of Ulleung Island (울릉도) in the East Sea or Hong Island (홍도) in the West Sea is reproduced on a number of the islands located in the waters just immediately to the west. These are islands where rock stacks and sea cliffs vie with the pounding ocean for ascendancy and where one may hike sublimely—and alone—along quiet, contemplative shores. A disparate arc of such islands extends some 100 kilometers from only just south of the NLL (Northern Limit Line) to a little north of the Taean Coast National Marine Park (태안해안국립공 원) in Chungcheong Province. Most of the islands covered here have small permanent communities which offer affordable minbak (민박) rented rooms and are easily accessed over the weekend. Accommodation can often be arranged in advance, courtesy of information collated on the internet and then confirmed by phone (spoken Korean being a definite advantage here). For the purposes of this article, the islands are grouped by means of access, beginning with those that may be reached by bus or car via bridges and causeways and wrapping up with those that only offer ferry service.

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By Bridge. . .

Islands that are now connected to the mainland by the construction of major bridges are, of course, the most accessible, and many local buses traverse the following locations.

T h e Gan g w h a G r o u p

The eastern coast of Ganghwa Island ( 강화도) holds the restored remains of fortifications that enabled the Goryeo royal court to stare down the marauding Mongols, glumly encamped on the opposite shore for several decades. The best, and largest, of these is Gwangseongbo Fort. On the south of the Island, Mani Mountain is a fantastic peak with only an hour’s climb (including 40 minutes of stairs) to a lovely peak that looks out over the nearby seas. Similarly, in the far south of the island lies the Ganghwa Foreshore Center, with postcard perfect mud f lats (tidalf lat. ganghwa.incheon.kr 032-937-5057). In the extreme north of the island is the Ganghwa Peace Observatory, which may be reached by car (032-930-7062). From the port of Oepo on the east of Gangwha Island, travelers can reach another smaller island, called Seokmo Island (석모도). This is famed for the fabulous little temple of Bomun and a hiking trail along the spine of rolling hills that cross the island north to south, which terminates at the hill just above the temple grounds itself. Thirsty hikers can make a beeline for one of the many makgeolli stores located just outside the temple’s gate. To reach this hiking trail, you can take a local bus to be found approximately ten minutes from the port terminal bus stop. english.ganghwa.incheon.kr 032-930-3114

Gapgotdondae, Ganghwa Island

Changing of the guards Gwangseong Bosu Gate, Ganghwa Island Incheon Bridge

Ganghwa Is. Seokmo Is.

S E ou l Yeongjong Isl.

Incheon Intâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;l Airport Incheon Bridge

Silmi Isl.

i n c h e o n

Muui Isl. Yeongheung Isl. Jawol Isl.

Daebu Isl.

Deokjeok Isl. Seonjae Isl. Nue Isl.

Gureop Isl. Soijak Isl. Daeijak Isl. Saseungbong Isl.

Hwas e o ng

Jebu Isl. Seungbong Isl.

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Jawol Island

Yeongjong Island

The Yeongjong Group

Seokmo Island

Footbridge on Bua Mountain, Daeijak Island

Gureop Island

T h e Da e b u G r o u p

Incheon Airport is built on land reclaimed from the sea that Daebu Island (대부도), which is technically part of Ansan once separated two distinct islands, now combined into Yeong- rather than Incheon, lies 15 kilometers west of the Wolgot interjong Island (영종도). Though the expressway rail service con- change on the Yeongdeung Expressway. An enormous viaduct necting the airport with Seoul Station in the heart of the capital connects the island to the mainland, and another bridge leads was built with international passengers in mind, it also comes in travelers out even further to Yeongheung Island. Daebu is where you can find the delightful Baradel horse riding complex (for handy for island hoppers. One recommended course is the pleasant walk (45 minutes, more, see the article on p. 59). Otherwise, however, it lacks the moderate difficulty) to the local peak (Baegun Mountain) not far charm of other islands, unless rows of identical, down-at-the-heel from the Science Musuem (ienet.re.kr), which on a clear day has kalguksu restaurants take your fancy. commanding views of the airport and surrounding waters. The On your way to neighbouring Yeongheung Island, be sure train begins at the top of the road running alongside the museum to stop at Bul Island (불섬). Just after crossing Seonjae Bridge and continues over the peak and down to the famous (and minute) from Daebu Island to the small intermediary island of Sonjae (선 Yonggung Temple. The Science Museum 재), you can take a pleasant excursion on itself can most simply be accessed by taxi foot to this islet at low tide, when a natuIf you neglect to watch the tide ral causeway is exposed. The spit also from Unseo Stn. on the AREX airport line. times, you will be stuck there extends out past the islet for a kilometer, There are modest beaches on Yeongjong island, as well as the four smaller islands for the night, as the road back ending in a lattice of shallow channels to the north, but for a far better stretch of draining into the sea. to the mainland rapidly slips sand, head south to Muui Island. Jebu Island (제부도) which is part of below the incoming ocean. Hwaseong (화성시, hscity.net) must be Rumor has it that Muui Island (무의도) may eventually be connected by bridge approached by a road which impressively to Yeongjeong Island (and hence to the mainland). In the mean- submerges at high tide. In many ways, the main beach is a little time, you can head to the Jamjin Island dock to make use of the reminiscent of the famous foreshore further south on Anmyeon rather pricey ferry service to Muui Island, which accommodates Island (안면도). Just to the rear of the main beach is the usual array vehicles. There are two quite reasonable beaches here. The larger of raw fish restaurants, and just behind them a further array of beach, Hanagae, benefits from a local bus service. From the minbaks and yogwans, the more modern of them being quite comsouthern end of the beach, a trail leads up to one of the two major fortable lodgings. Should you neglect to watch the tide times, you peaks on the island, a scenic spot from which you can watch the will indeed be there for the night, as the road back to the mainland aircraft dramatically arriving in the distance and contemplate the rapidly slips below the incoming ocean. Back on the mainland, bay immediately below. The other beach on the island is Silmido immediately beside the nearby Ansan Maritime Museum (032Beach, located a 40-minute walk from the ferry terminal. Korean 886-2913) is a smaller island, Nu-e (누에섬), with a similar subcinema buffs may want to wait for low tide so they can walk mersing causeway. This one, however, is exclusively for the use of across to Silmi Island, the site of the events on which the hit mov- pedestrians, and is ideal if you prefer solitude and the company of ie Silmido was based. eng.icjg.go.kr 032-760-7114 your own footsteps. iansan.net, yeongheung.ongjin.go.kr

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T h at O t h e r Ko r e a n I s l a n d

In discussing the Islands immediately accessible by sea from Seoul, mention must be made of the largest of these, an island which in fact you may already be quite familiar with. That would be none other than Jeju Island. Chonghaejin Marine operates a twice weekly service to Jeju that departs late in the afternoon and arrives the following morning. Readers would be advised to invest in an actual room and avoid the far cheaper public dormitory. Watch for the spectacular sunset, visible from the deck of the vessel as it passes out of the port of Incheon under the new bridge. cmcline.co.kr 032-889-7800

. . . or by Ferry

The first stop for ferry service is the easily accessed Incheon Coastal Ferry Terminal (032 -888-0116), which is approximately ten minutes by taxi from Incheon Stn. (line 1) or alternatively buses 12 or 24 from immediately outside Dong Incheon Stn. (line 1). There is an information service at the terminal (closing in the early afternoon) which can provide limited assistance in English for finding island accommodation. In addition, access for passengers and vehicles is available to several members of the Jawol and Deokjeok groups from the Daebu Island Terminal (daebuhw.com), located by the viaduct on the north part of Taebu Island, in a slower vessel designed to transport cars and light trucks (about W12,000 per person, per trip). T h e Jaw o l G r o u p

The Jawol group prominently includes Jawol Island (자월도) itself, the delightful pair of So Ijak and Dae Ijak Islands (소이작, Little Ijak and 대이작, Big Ijak), which are separated by only a few hundred meters of intervening ocean, and Seungbong Island (승봉도) just to the east. The standards of accommodation here have greatly improved over the last decade, and along the southern foreshore of both Jawol Island and Seungbong Island, immediately adjacent to the main beach and ferry terminal, are a number of quality minbaks. The islands are all only a few kilometers in area and both the Ijak Islands and Seungbong Island may be almost completely circumnavigated over the course of a day along the foreshore by the adventurous (but beware of tides). On Dae Ijak, head up the walking path that leads to the summit of one of the island’s major hills for some lovely views on a sunny day with the sunlight glinting off the sparkling waters. The island also features a spectacular offshore sandy spit which becomes visible once the tide goes out and which may be accessed by boats (you can usually arrange rental at your minbak). The privately owned Saseungbong Island (사승봉도) features an even larger version of this phenomenon. The Deokjeok Group

The Deokjeok group includes the notable Deokjeok Island (덕 적도) itself, home of the enormous Seopori Beach and the quite respectable Batjireum Beach a few kilometers down the road. Both of these are some kilometers distant from the ferry terminal, and it is recommended that visitors take a local bus. Immediately behind Batjireum Beach is the path that leads up to the local peak, Pibong, a superlative point affording magnificent views of Deokjeok and the surrounding islands. To the north of the island is the pretty Neungdong pebble beach. A further change of ferry (which looks like little more than a converted fishing trawler) is necessary at the Deokjeok pier in order to travel out to the other islands in this group. Fantastic sea stacks jutting majestically out of the waters occasionally dot the route of the ferry as it wends its way over the seas across to the various islands. Gureop Island (굴업도) is a magical cross of terrain with rocky cliffs at its extremes, featuring small sea caves and pristine sandy shores that intersect in the center of the island, alongside a tiny range of low hills. Accommodation can be found at the homes of local families and may best be described as “rustic.” The sense of wildness here is palpable—but don’t wait too long, as major development is under consideration. Visit the following sites for more information about the islands discussed here. • Ongjin-gun (the administrative district of several islands) ongjin.go.kr • City of Incheon incheon.go.kr • Incheon Tourism Organization into.or.kr 10 Magazine April 2011 | 23

Join the Sultans of Swing The Ballantine’s Championship Comes to Icheon

Ernie Els

W o r ds a n d sh o ts b y B r i an M i l l e r

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After three years on Jeju, Korea’s most prestigious golf tournament moves a little closer to Seoul.

he European Tour will be making a stop in Icheon this month for the 2011 Ballantine’s Championship, Asia’s fourth largest golf tournament. This will be the fourth installment of the Championship, which for the last three years was played at Pinx Golf Club on Korea’s southernmost island of Jeju. The first European Tour event to be held in Korea, the Ballantine’s Championship is sanctioned by the Asian Tour and the Korea PGA and has featured some of the biggest names in professional golf. Everyone from Fred Couples to Ernie Els, Padraig Harrington, Lee Westwood, Henrik Stenson and Anthony Kim have battled for the title and a purse valued at €2.0-2.2 million.

When it was announced that the tournament had been moved from Jeju to Icheon for the next three years, the news was met by golf fans on the island with a great deal of disappointment. For them, Ballantineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s was an opportunity to witness world class golf in a setting that allowed people to get much closer to its biggest stars than at many other tournaments. And the Championship never failed to deliver on great golfing drama. Graeme McDowell triumphed in the inaugural tournament in 2008 after a tense playoff with Jeev Milkha Singh. In the

Anthony Kim told members of the press at the 2009 Ballantineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Championship that â&#x20AC;&#x153;the wind blew so much, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m glad I had a little bit of weight on me, because I could have blown off with the rest of the golf balls that got blown off the greens.â&#x20AC;? year that followed the galleries were treated to a thrilling 3-way playoff that lead to the crowning of Thongchai Jaidee as tournament champ. In 2010 it was Marcus Fraserâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s turn to lift the cup. It was an uplifting win for the Australian, who had nearly given up on golf just a few years prior due to disappointing play. It was surely Jejuâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most glamorous sporting event, and the action on the greens never ceased to disappoint. But on a largely agricultural island with a low population density where horse racing is the sport of choice, Ballantineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s never seemed to find the kind of large fan support it deserved. Organizers had such a difficult time luring fans to Pinx that they began handing out free passes (valued at W50,000) at local bars. At issue also was Jejuâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s notoriously unforgiving weather, especially its vicious wind, which plagued the Championship through its three-year run on the island. In 2010, play had to be shortened to 54 holes after poor weather led to the cancellation of the first day of the tournament. Anthony Kim told members of the press at Pinx that in 2009 â&#x20AC;&#x153;the wind blew so much, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m glad I had a little bit of weight on me, because I could have blown off with the rest of the golf balls that got blown off the greens.â&#x20AC;? But as he joked with the press, the always amiable Kim reminded reporters that â&#x20AC;&#x153;we play golf outdoors, so you have to learn how to play with the wind, and just overcome adversity.â&#x20AC;? A few tournament officials meanwhile joked that, being from Scotland, the wind would have to blow a lot harder if they were to be impressed.

Anthony Kim 10 Magazine April 2011 | 25

t JOGP!JOUDVMUDPN DPN

Yong-eun Yang

Graeme Macdowell Marcus Fraser

Fred Couples

Danny Willett

Kyung-ju Choi Padraig Harrington

evertheless, event organizers, after much deliberation, made the decision to move Ballantine’s to Blackstone Resort, just an hour from Seoul. It’s a move hailed by those associated with the tournament as a chance for the Championship to grow into one of Asia’s premiere events. And with the course so close to Korea’s major population centers, Blackstone is likely to attract far more fans. And so Jeju’s loss is Icheon’s gain. David Ciclitira, the chairman of Parallel Media Group (the organization promoting Ballantine’s), has been highly supportive of the decision. He called the move to Blackstone “an exciting next step in the tournament’s development - a chance to showcase it to even more people and realize its huge potential.” The move to Icheon, located just an hour to the southeast of Seoul (and not to be confused with Incheon to the west of the capital), is calculated to bring a greater fan presence and more golf stars to the tournament. This year’s Championship will also be a coming out party for Icheon’s ultra-exclusive Blackstone Resort, which opened in 2009 and has just 300 members. According to Blackstone Resort Chief Officer Greg Won, golfer Tom Watson made a visit to the course and was 26 | 10 Magazine April 2011

said to be “very impressed” by Blackstone’s course. From April 28th - May 1st, Blackstone will be hosting Korea’s premiere golfing event, a star-studded affair with a €2.2 million prize. The winner of this year’s championship will also receive a bottle of Ballantine’s Championship Blend, a blended scotch crafted from a collection of rare whiskies aged 38 years or more, created through collaboration between a master blender and last year’s tournament winner, Marcus Fraser. Only 10 bottles of the Scotch have been produced and are said to be “priceless” based on the precious nature of the ingredients. This is the second time such a blend has been created, after 2008 winner Graeme McDowell created a similar scotch with master blender Sandy Hyslop (McDowell later celebrated his 2010 US Open win at Pebble Beach by opening up the bottle).

lthough the entire field has yet to be announced, several world class golfers have already been slated to participate, giving fans at the 2011 Ballantine’s Championship plenty to cheer about. Lee Westwood, who enjoyed a few months as the world’s number one golfer before surrendering the top spot to Martin Kaymer in early March, is one of the first golfers to announce his participation in the tournament at Blackstone. “I thoroughly enjoyed playing in the Ballantine’s Championship in 2009,” Westwood recently told reporters in Abu Dhabi, “and I’m very much looking forward to returning to the tournament this year. I enjoyed a fantastic 2010 and becoming the world number one has been the fulfillment of a life-long ambition. Obviously I’m very keen to maintain the momentum in 2011 so I’m aiming to put on a great display for the Korean fans.” World number 14 Ian Poulter will be making his debut at the Ballantine’s Championship this year, though this won’t be his first time in Korea. He previously played at the Korea Open in 2008. It will be Poulter’s first event of 2011 after a year of success in 2010 that saw him claim the USB Hong Kong Championship. Y. E. Yang will hope to rebound from the disappointing show he put on for hometown fans at last year’s Championship in Jeju. The Jeju native, who became a hometown hero by defeating Tiger Woods to win the US PGA championship in 2009, hopes that this year’s appearance at Ballantine’s sees an improvement in his fortunes. Yang suffered a slow finish last year after being elevated to stardom in 2009 and will be looking to start this year with a bang at Blackstone. But Yang will need to be in top form if he’s to hold off fan favorite and World Golf Hall of Famer, Ernie Els. Els has 60 worldwide victories to his name, including three majors (the US Open in 1994 and 1997 and the British Open in 2002). He’ll be rejoining the tournament after finishing in the top ten in his last two appearances at Ballantine’s. The South African star made strong starts in 2009 and 2010, but came up short late in each tournament to drop him from contention. Last year he told reporters, “I was pleased with a top-five finish, although if I could have got a couple more putts to drop on the final day it might have been even better!” As the tournament draws nearer, the field for this year’s Championship will come into greater focus. However, with a purse of €2.2 million and a push by organizers to raise the profile of the event, fans can expect much of the previous year’s field to return to Korea for a shot at the Championship. Those interested in attending the tournament will be able to find more information about the championship and ticket sales at ballantineschampionship.com. Although prices for this year’s tournament have yet to be set, tickets for Ballantine’s 2010 were priced at W15,000 - W20,000 for a one-day pass and W50,000 for a 4-day “Season Pass.” 10 Magazine April 2011 | 27

Take On the Korean Golf Challenge W o r ds b y D an i e l M c N am e e , sh o ts b y B r i an M i l l e r

The fees can be steep and the competition intimidating, but there are few places more golf-crazy than Korea.

olf is often seen as a sport for the elite, and that is even more so the case in Korea. It is often too expensive for the average Korean to enjoy and those who play, play well. As a result, the atmosphere at most golf courses in Korea is quite competitive, fast-paced and professional. Visitors may be surprised by what they see, and avid golfers may even like the differences of the golf scene in Korea. A trip to any driving range in the country exemplifies Koreans’ dedication to golf. Most of the golfers are regulars who practice often, though few of them need the practice because they are all so good. If you have the chance to play a course in Korea, you will see the golf environment first hand. Courses are for the most part not very wide, which leaves little room for error, making them more difficult than many of their counterparts in the West. In general, golf courses in Korea are similar to the most expensive options to be found in North America. Korean courses usually make you hire a caddy and cart, which can be frustrating. Both of those requirements are probably in place to increase the speed of play on packed courses. If you don’t play well, you will likely have a caddy pushing you to go quicker and highly skilled players waiting on you. It can all be rather intimidating for weaker golfers. The price can also add up with the cart, caddy and green fee often each adding a significant amount to the price of a round. The tough golf course environment perhaps explains why so many Korean golfers regu-

28 | 10 Magazine April 2011

larly hone their skills at a driving range. Naturally, most Korean men who golf do not want to be the one who slows down the group or who stands out because of a lack of practice. If you see someone playing very badly, there’s a good possibility they’re hungover. No doubt, foreigners looking to scratch their golf itch in Korea wouldn’t want to slow down a group (or be mistaken for an inebriate golfer, for that matter), especially if golfing with business partners. Hence, the only solution is to get out and golf more regularly. There are several options for golfing in Korea. The most obvious choice is to try out one of the thousands of screen golf cafés in Korea, which we describe in detail on the next page. You may also be able to find a driving range. As most ranges in Korea are surrounded by netting, it’s rare to find one large enough for your ball to hit the ground after a long drive. There’s of course no reason why you can’t also go for a round on a golf course, though you should be prepared to dress well and bring your A game. Korea is home to the famous Nine Bridges Golf Club, one of the only Asian golf courses usually found on top 100 lists. There are a number of other prestigious clubs in Korea, especially on Korea’s golf paradise island, Jeju. Golf is so prominent in Korean culture that anyone living in Korea should try to experience it in some way. Whether you get out to a course, play screen golf, go to a driving range, or just watch a golf tournament, it will certainly be a rewarding experience. And with the Ballantine’s Championship taking place just southwest of Seoul at the end of this month, you have no excuse not to see a couple rounds of pro-level golf. For a list of great places to golf on Jeju Island, see the article on p. 66.

Images provided by a l bat r o s s s c r e e n g o l f

Number 1, Meet Me on the Holodeck W o rds B Y S t e p h e n R e v e r e

Screen golf is about as close to virtual reality as it gets outside of Star Trek. Care to join me for a round of golf? Don’t worry, you don’t need to bring your clubs. The course is just around the corner. Oh, and you can choose one of hundreds of the best courses in the world. We’ll finish 18 holes in about 2 hours. Sound too good to be true? That’s because it isn’t. It’s virtual, and it’s a blast. Granted, there’s no beating being in the beautiful outdoors and walking a lush green course, but paying a couple hundred bucks for 18 holes in Korea (not to mention spending thousands on clubs and gear) can wear on the pocketbooks of even the relatively wellheeled. Then there’s also the time spent getting to and from the course, the planning involved putting together a foursome, and the cutthroat competition for a good tee time that all go with trying to play a round of golf on this crowded little peninsula. Screen golf, however, will cost you about 1/10th of the price, 1 - 6 players can shoot together, and you can order in pizza and beers to enjoy while your partners take their swings. And the similarity to a real golf game will amaze you. That little slice you have a tendency to work into your swing? It’s there, so be sure to play it. Got a funny lie on the side of the hill? The floor will tilt to compensate. If there is a weakness, it’s certainly in the putting, where it is almost impossible to judge exactly how hard to hit the ball. But then maybe it’s just that my putting game sucks. So next time you’re itching to hit the links, head over to a screen golf café and experience one of the perks of living in a tech-happy, golf-obsessed country. 10 Magazine April 2011 | 29

E dited by DAVI D CA R RUTH a n d s u n k y u n g L e e

A Berry Delicious Meal

Green Salad and Pasta Buffet

Astoria Hotel The Astoria Hotel is celebrating the 2nd anniversary of New York-style Italian restaurant Bella Coolla 63 with the Green Salad & Pasta Buffet, available each Thursday in April from 6 – 9 pm. Don’t miss this opportunity to enjoy a variety of delights at 50% off—only W19,800 per person—along with a limited-edition bottle of Paul Smith Evian mineral water. This special offer is limited to the first five to make reservations each week. 02-2275-7473

The American Steak Lover’s Dream

JW Marriott Seoul JW’s Grill combines a superb American chef, searing flames and USDA prime cuts for the best sizzling steak opportunity in Asia. This red-meat extravaganza is designed by New Yorktrained Chef Timothy Broderick and available April 4th - May 31st. Also, as Seoul’s first hotel to offer Tomahawk à la carte, 100 diners will have the chance to savor the famed ribeye for free – provided they make dinner reservations at least one day in advance and can eat all 1.4 charbroiled and juicy kilograms in under 20 minutes. marriott.com 02-6282-6759

Graceful Spring Selections at Un Hae

Daegu Hotel Inter-Burgo EXCO At Un Hae, the restaurant at the Daegu Hotel Inter-Burgo EXCO, discover the secrets of Korean and Japanese cooking. Along with popular Korean and Japanese dishes served in an authentic atmosphere, Un Hae also has a spring herb and flower bar with namul for a bibimbap that is full of vitamin C and other nutrients. Lunch 12 – 3 pm, dinner 6 – 10 pm. ibhotel.com 02-425-5678

10 Magazine April 2011

IP Boutique Hotel Cafe Amiga located in IP Boutique is offering a spring meal based on seasonal fruit such as strawberries. Pick from flower and sprout bibimbap, strawberries with crème anglaise, strawberry and banana juice, and more. Available through May 31st. Breakfast (7 – 10 am, W18,000), lunch (11:30 am – 3 pm, W22,000), dinner (6 – 9:30 pm, W29,000). ipboutiquehotel.com 02-3702-8033

Nibble on Some Nutritious Veggies

InterContinental Seoul Coex The InterContinental Seoul COEX is promoting the Spring Vegetable Buffet through the end of April. This tantalizing buffet features an array of Koreans’ favorite seasonal vegetables prepared in various styles to revitalize you after an energy-draining winter. It’s held at The Brasserie, an international buffet restaurant that features a different buffet each month. W58,000 W70,000. seoul.intercontinental.com 02-3430-8610

Lovely Bubble Package for Honeymooners

Imperial Palace Hotel Honeymoon vacation planning should be romantic, and the Imperial Palace Hotel is offering a package for you to help make your experience unforgettable. Along with your choice of rooms, you can enjoy champagne and cheese. You’re even provided with a “f light bite” in case you have to miss the breakfast buffet because of an early morning departure. W259,000 ++ - W359,000++. imperialpalace.co.kr 02-3440-8000

No Limits on Your Wining and Dining

Marriott Executive Apartments “Vino tempo” is Italian for “the time for wine,” and that’s exactly what time it is every Thursday (6 pm – 9 pm) at the Library Lounge in the Marriott Executive Apartments on Yeouido. The sommelier will select a minimum of seven different varieties for wine lovers to choose from, and the chef will send over a wonderful complement of fine dishes. Even better, you can eat and drink as much as you like. W40,000++ for men and W30,000++ for women. measeoul.com 02-2090-8055

+ = subject to 10% VAT, ++ = subject to 10% VAT and 10% service charge

Spring Break Package

The Ritz-Carlton Seoul Savor spring by relaxing in one of the Ritz-Carlton’s newly renovated Superior Deluxe rooms and enjoying the lovely natural setting of the European-style restaurant The Garden. At afternoon tea, guests can sample exquisite coffees, fine teas and a selection of scones, tiramisu, tartlets, lemon cheesecake, cookies and chocolates in a traditional three-storied dessert tray for two. Or for a really special way to mark the season, enjoy the cupcakes, which can be packaged for take-out. 2 – 6 pm. Afternoon Tea is W25,000++ for two, and the package is W220,000++. ritzcarlton.com 02-3451-8114

General Manager Simon Bell Accepts Three Awards

Courtyard by Marriott Seoul Times Square T he Cou r t ya rd by Ma r r iot t Seoul Times Square received the Hotel of the Year for 2010 at the recent Marriott International General Managers Conference held in Bangkok along with two other awards. The hotel’s General Manager Simon Bell graciously accepted the three awards on behalf of all of the hotel’s staff. courtyardseoul.com 02-2638-3000

A Treat for TeaTotalers

Park Hyatt Seoul Park Hyatt Seoul is offering a tea class on April 15th from 3 5 pm, offering participants an opportunity to taste some of the hotel’s best teas and desserts and learn about the various types of world-famous teas, along with their history, culture, and stories. The Park Hyatt Seoul’s food and beverage manager and acclaimed tea expert Bou Chu will share his knowledge about the drink, and participants will enjoy a tea-t ast i ng session. W50,000+. parkhyattseoul.co.kr 02-2016-1234 10 Magazine April 2011 | 31

Expat News A pril 2011

Free Shuttle Bus to Busan

The Visit Korea Committee (VKC) is trying to make travel within Korea easier and budgetfriendly for international visitors. In the past, they offered free Seoul-to-Gyeongju and Seoulto-Jeonju shuttle services, and now they are providing a free shuttle from Seoul to Busan all

international visitors. Except for Mondays and holidays, the shuttle bus starts in front of the Dongwha Duty Free Shop in Gwanghwamun and runs once a day on a daily basis. It makes stops at the Lotte Hotel and Paradise Hotel in Busan. The 28-seat limousine bus is equipped with DVD players, wireless internet, tourist information booklets, on-board staff members to answer questions and other services. To make reservations, see the Visit Korea Year website. Reservations must be made 10 days in advance with a limit of two tickets and a valid foreign passport. Since the bus makes a return trip to Seoul, residents of Busan, Gyeongju, and Jeonju can take advantage of the service as well when there are empty seats. visitkoreayear.com 02-1577-2507

New Shop Focuses on European Gentlemen’s Shoes Whether it’s the small shoe sizes, gauche style, or language gap, foreign men in Korea may find themselves dragging their feet about their shoe shopping. The owners of the recently opened Zimmermann & Kim Gentlemen’s Shoe Store hope to change that. Men in the market for good-looking, snug shoes will appreciate the quality of the products by English shoemakers Gaziano & Girling and Hungarian brand Vass Shoes. Zimmermann & Kim stock a wide variety of ready-to-wear options, including oxfords, derbies, monks, loafers, and boots, and custom orders are available. With sales staff who speak Korean, English, German, and even French, your language need not get in the way of finding that perfect pair of loafers. zimmermannkim.com 02-542-5982

Mobile Phone Service

10 Magazine April 2011

ATEK Compiles a Database of Mental Health Services ATEK (the Association for Teachers of English in Korea) has just announced the creation of a database of mental health service providers for English speakers in Korea. This database, which includes an extensive list compiled by the American Embassy in Seoul, has information on where to find treatment and counseling for alcohol abuse and depression. It even lists practitioners who provide counseling via Skype to individuals who don’t have easy access to an English-speaking therapist. Visit atek.or.kr/mentalhealth to access this database of mental health resources, and please email media@atek.or.kr if you would like to add a listing.

Han River Cruises Reopen With winter finally over, the Han River cruises are starting up again. Although the cruises are technically offered year-round, conditions such as temperatures falling below zero and the river freezing often interfere with service. But since February 17th, all four courses are operating again with a total of 16 departures per day. To find out more information on how you can take a tour of Seoul’s mighty waterway, see the website or make a call. hangang.seoul.go.kr 02-1330

The Seoul Global Center is launching a new program called LG U+Mobile Phone Service. Exclusively for foreigners, the service will provide mobile phone offers for reasonable rates. For smart phones, the rate starts at W45,000 with 200 minutes, 300 text messages and 1 giga bite data along with a free smart phone (Samsung Android OX 2.2). For those who’d like to stick to the tried and true normal mobile phones, the rate starts at W15,500 with 200 free hours between LG U+ customers along with a free or inexpensive mobile touch phone. You will have to sign up for a 1- or 2-year contract and show a copy of your passport, Korean bankbook and Alien Registration Card. For more information, please call 02-2075-4130 or go to global.seoul.go.kr.

Edited by A ngela lee a n d Dav i d Carru t h

Darryl Pidcock Director of Client Markets with Swiss Reinsurance Where are you from? Australia Where were you before this? Hong Kong How long will you stay? As long as my company allows What are you most looking forward to? I would usually say experiencing the food, people and wine but so far after a number of soju experiences I realize this is a very dangerous statement! The culture and history here are strong, and I look forward to learning a lot about this over time.

Kamal Chaoui General Manager of the Grand InterContinental Seoul and Coex Where are you from? France Where were you before this? Adelaide, Australia How long will you stay? At least a couple of years What are you most looking forward to? Professionally, I look forward to taking our standards and service levels to the next level. Personally, my family and I look forward to visiting historic places in Seoul and its neighboring areas, learning the language, enjoying Korean food, and experiencing many aspects of Korean culture.

N e wc o m e rs

The transient nature of expat life in Korea means that there’s always someone new joining the community. We introduce four new friends. Be sure to give them a shout out if you see them.

Felipe Andres Lagos-Guichard General Manger of the Fraser Suites Insadong Where are you from? Australia Where were you before this? North Queensland, Australia How long do you plan to stay? 2 years, hopefully longer! What are you most looking forward to? I’m excited to experience Korean culture and the Korean business way, enhance the presence of Frasers Hospitality in Korea, learn some Korean, and try out the food.

Ranga Welaratne General Manager of Sanofi Pasteur Where are you from? Australia (born in Sri Lanka) Where were you before this? France How long do you plan to stay? Around 3 years What are you most looking forward to? In my professional life, I look forward to working hard to bring innovative and high quality vaccines to Korea. In my personal life, I plan to travel around Korea to get to know the culture, learn the language and more importantly enjoy the local cuisine. 10 Magazine April 2011 | 33

Dogok-dong 3rd Maple Tree House Now open in DOGOK-DONG

SK Leader’s View Maebong Stn. exit.3

464 Dogok-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Tel: 574-4468, 11:30 am- 10:30 pm

Itaewon

Samcheong-dong

Mougle KFC

Hamilton Hotel

Itaewon Stn. exit.1

116-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul 11:30 am – 10:30 pm, Tel: 02-790-7977

Myungseong Market

Samcheong-dong Street

Bar 1010

31-1 Samcheong-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Tel: 02-730-7461, 11:30 am – 10:30 pm (2:30 – 5:30 pm Mon–Fri Break time)

Gastronomic News A pril 2011

Craftworks Taphouse to Debut Korea’s First IPA

Citi Card Users Enjoy Free Entrées at Two Restaurants During the month of April, a Citibank Credit Card gives you the chance to enjoy a free main dish at two of the company’s Premium Dining merchants. The first is Dohwarim, a modern Chinese restaurant, and the second is Rosso Bianco, an authentic Neapolitan pizzeria with a traditional wood-fired oven. This special offer is available to all Citi Cards holders. All you need to do is present this magazine article before you order a meal. Visitors to Dohwarim will get a serving of sweet-and-sour fried pork, while guests at Rosso Bianco will receive a Margherita pizza. Both are free of charge and available once per visit. Along with this complementary dish, a 10% discount at these restaurants has been available to all Citi Cards holders since this February. Contact the Citi Cards Premium Dining Reservation Center (1577-0901) for more details. Dohwarim 02-733-3874, Rosso Bianco 02-732-6218 B1 S-Tower, 116 Shinmunro-1 ga, Jongno-gu

New Chili King Opens South of the River

10 Magazine April 2011

Until now, if you wanted some of Kevin Cyr’s mouth-watering burgers and chili, you had to visit Itaewon and walk up the winding alley behind the Dolce Vita bar. This made it hard for many of the restaurant’s regulars who lived elsewhere in Seoul to visit during the week. For residents in Gangnam, at least, those days are over. This past month, Chili King Express opened up in Dogok-dong near Maebong Stn. (line 3, ex. 4). With smaller side dishes, this branch caters more to the office workers in the area who make up the lunchtime crowd, but the burgers that put this place on the map are as good as ever. Prices range from W5,000 – W16,000. With the lunch special, add fries and a drink to your burger order for W1,500. 517-18 Dogok-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul. 070-4409-7272

Apparently, the five fine brews currently being poured at Craftworks Taphouse just weren’t enough. On April 14th, the Noksapyeong brewpub will be unveiling—or is it unleashing?—their latest seasonal beer, Jirisan Moon Bear India Pale Ale. A bold, hoppy American-style ale with an alcohol content upwards of six percent, Jirisan marks a major contribution to Korea’s dome s tic b e e r culture. “In the gr a nd scheme of the domestic beer industry,” says Craftworks manager Dan Vroon, “this is the equivalent of gaining nuclear technology.” Craftworks is using the new beer to assist groups working to eradicate the trade in moon bear bile, a practice that is still legal in Korea. Join the fundraiser for the bears—on April 14th at 7 pm for W10,000. Admission includes one glass of the new brew. craftworkstaphouse.com

Edited by A ngela lee a n d Dav i d Carru t h

No Corkage Sundays at Villa Sortino Your well-aged bottle is just waiting to be uncorked, but you’ve got to find the right meal to match it with. Try some of the tastefully prepared Italian food at Villa Sortino in Itaewon—without any extra charge for bringing your wine. Villa Sortino is waiving the corkage for guests each Sunday to help you enjoy a more affordable meal. And since it’s free, why not bring along a second bottle? Find this Italian ristorante a short walk from Itaewon Stn. (line 6, ex. 2). sortinos-seoul.com 02-553-9000

Caffe Bene Soars Past 500 Branches What’s the biggest coffee chain in Korea? It’s not Starbucks. In the three years since it opened its first franchise back in May 2008, Caffe Bene has leased out more than 500 franchises. Despite intense competition from multinationals and chains backed by Korean conglomerates, this rapid growth has catapulted the domestic coffee shop powerhouse to number 1 in the nation. Caffe Bene attributes its success to its emphasis on offering premium coffee and a “multi-purpose cultural space” for its customers. The opening of its first overseas branch in Manhattan this year signals the firm’s drive to become an international coffee brand. caffebene.co.kr 10 Magazine April 2011 | 35

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36 | 10 Magazine April 2011

PA L A C E SEOUL

Cirque du Soleil: Varekai Starting April 6th The hugely successful international circus troupe Cirque du Soleil returns to Korea for the first time since the performance of Allegria three years ago. The show that begins this month is based upon the Greek myth of Icarus. In the original story, Icarus plunges into the sea when he flies too close to the sun, melting his waxen wings. Varekei reinterprets the myth through their trademark dramatic mix of circus [Continued on page 46] NATIONWIDE 38 • SEOUL 42 • CHUNGCHEONG PROVINCE 57 • GYEONGGI PROVINCE 58 • GaNGwon PROVINCE 60 JEOLLA PROVINCE 61 • GYEONGSANG PROVINCE 64 • JEJU ISLAND 66 • NETWORKING CALENDAR 67

Rango Movies

by Pa u l M atthews

Directed by Gore Verbinski After his smash hit Pirates of the Caribbean trilogy, Gore Verbinski brings a very different kind of film to the screen. Rango is the tale of an eccentric chameleon (voiced by Johnny Depp), who finds himself stranded in the desert and is sent on a mystic quest by a squashed armadillo. He soon ends up in a nearby water-starved frontier town. After impressing the locals, he becomes sheriff and has to deal with all sorts of difficulties. Rango, whilst incredibly beautiful, is just too slow and ponderous. It seems unsure as to whether it is aiming at kids or adults and most of the jokes fall flat (though the appearance of a certain gonzo journalist should raise a laugh from his fans). There are references to numerous westerns, nods to Clint Eastwood and some imaginative action sequences involving a hawk. However, at just under two hours, it fails to hold your attention, and Johnny Depp’s kooky chameleon starts to grate. This one is worth a look for those interested in westerns, but it’s not your average family fare.

Black Swan Directed by Darren Aronofsky It’s not often that ballet and horror join together on the big screen, but we’re lucky that Darren Aronofsky has managed to combine the two to create one of the more disturbing releases of 2010. Natalie Portman plays Nina, a young ballerina for a big ballet company in New York looking to make her way to the top. When the prima ballerina is forced into retirement, Nina finds herself thrust into the spotlight, but as she rehearses for the twin roles of white and black swans, she starts to have some very disturbing experiences. 38 | 10 Magazine April 2011

Won Bin in The Man from Nowhere

Black Swan is a terrifying dive into the deepest, darkest corners of the artist’s mind. There are hints of 1970s Italian horror here (Dario Argento’s Suspiria), but it is Aronofsky’s disturbing use of mirrors and the glimpses of doppelgangers that bring a real edge to this thrilling film. Mila Kunis, Vincent Cassel and Barbara Hershey all give fantastic performances, but Natalie Portman shines as the nervous Nina, an Academy Award-deserving performance to be sure. Ballet snobs may have something to say about Portman’s dancing, but horror fans will love this terrifying tale.

The Man from Nowhere 아저씨

Directed by Jeong-beom Lee If you love thrillers, then The Man from Nowhere should be on your to-watch list. It’s the second film from director Jeongbeom Lee and stars Won Bin (last seen as the son in Jun-ho Bong’s award-winning Mother). Like many Korean films, The Man from Nowhere spans several genres: I like to think of it as an action-packed revenge melodrama. Won Bin plays Tae-shik, a former agent for the Korean government, who spends his days running a pawn shop in a poor part of town. His only friend is a young girl named So-mi (Saeron Kim) whose stripper mother gets into trouble after she steals some heroin. Tae-shik finds himself targeted by gangsters and fights not only for his own survival, but also to save So-mi’s life. What follows is a two-hour thrillfilled action extravaganza. Director Lee handles the fight scenes very well, building up tension and giving us moments of melodrama that feel wellsuited to this film. Won Bin may look as if he stepped straight from a fashion shoot into poverty, but his powerful performance drives this movie. His smoldering stares and his sculpted body will have some viewers drooling, and he pulls off the tragic hero role with aplomb. Child actor Saeron Kim also deserves mention for her heartbreaking performance as the lonely So-mi, a very strong performance from such a young girl. The Man from Nowhere is a solid, very entertaining thriller that will keep you glued to your screen. Go out of your way to watch one of the best Korean action films of last year. You won’t be disappointed.

NATIONWIDE CALENDAR New This Month Dates are subject to change. April 7th Closed Note Japan. Drama/ Romantic. Erika Sawajiri, Yusuke Iseya; dir. Isao Yukisada.

April 7th The Way Back 돌아오는 길 Korea. Drama. Sun-il Yoo, Grina Park; dir. Steve Lee.

April 7th It Begins with the End France. Romance. Emmanuelle Beart, Michael Cohen; dir. Michael Cohen. April 7th The Journals of Musan 무산일기 Korea. Drama. Jeong-beom Park, Eun-jin Kang; dir. Jeong-beom Park.

April 14th Hanna US/UK/Germany. Action/thriller. Saoirse Ronan, Eric Bana and Cate Blanchett; dir. Joe Wright.

April 7th Never Let Me Go UK/US. Drama/romance. Carey Mulligan, Andrew Garfield, Keira Knightley; dir. Mark Romanek. April 7th Paul 황당한 외계인: 폴 UK. Adventure/sci-fi. Simon Pegg, Nick Frost; dir. Greg Mottola.

April 21st Fast Five 분노의 질주: 언리미티드 US. Action/crime/drama. Vin Diesel, Paul Walker; dir. Justin Lin.

Trained at Tony&Guy and Vidal Sassoon Academy in UK

April 7th Sin of a Family 우리 이웃의 범죄 Korea. Drama/crime. Hyung-jun Shin, No-min Jeon; dir. Byung-jin Min.

April 21st Fool 바보야 Korea. Documentary. Stephen Sou-hwan Kim; dir. Seong-ok Kang.

Call to make an appointment 070-4227-6158 / 010-3172-3177

April 7th Sucker Punch US/Canada. Action/fantasy/thriller. Emily Browning, Abbie Cornish, Vanessa Hudgens; dir. Zack Snyder.

April 21st Norwegian Wood Japan. Drama/romance. Rinko Kikuchi, Kenichi Matsuyama; dir. Anh Hung Tran.

Open 10 am — 8 pm English service available

Television

by S oy eon K imberly Yoon

Seven K-Pop Stars Compete on MBC Show American Idol meets Survivor with this new Korean TV show featuring some of the country’s best musicians and comedians.

s reality TV competition programs (Koreans calls them “survival programs”) become the hot genre for broadcasters, MBC has reorganized its Sunday schedule with the addition of Survival: I am a Singer (나는 가수다). The show was first broadcast on March 6th, and TV viewers are already talking about how fun, fresh, and revolutionary it is. Competing on the show are seven top singers who are nationally known for their exceptional vocal skills. These singers are Sora Lee, Yeop Jeong, Ji-yeong Baek, Beom-su Kim, Do-hyeon Yun from the YB Band, Jeong-hyeon (Lena) Park, and Geon-mo Kim. They sing their own songs, usually their most popular hits, while professional composers and 500 audience members vote for the best performance. The immense talent of all these singers makes it tough for the judges to grade them. At the end of the first show, votes were counted and rankings were announced: Jeong-hyeon Park won first place followed by Beom-su Kim, Geon-mo Kim, Do-hyeon Yun, Ji-yeong Baek, Sora Lee, and in last place, Yeop Jeong. Fans of the lead singer of popular R&B group Brown-Eyed Seoul (who recorded the K pop hit “Nothing Better”) must have been shocked to see him in dead

last. Watching the breathtaking performances by the singers is not the only charm of this show, however. A needed dose of humor is provided by the seven comedians whose role is to become mangers of the singers. After the competition, when the winning and losing singers are announced, the singer with the least votes has to leave the show with the comedian masquerading as his or her manager. Starting from the second week, singers and managers also have missions to complete, and the pair that comes in last will be eliminated from the show. Survivor: I am a Singer is already being talked about all over the Korean web through video-sharing sites and blogs. Netizens are posting positive and negative feedback, some suggesting that voting for one star is too difficult and that rankings are merely numbers. Meanwhile, sales of songs by Jeong-hyeon Park are skyrocketing on K-pop music sites such as Melon, indicating the powerful media effect. Enjoy this little concert by these amazing vocalists and find out who the winner is each Sunday at 5:20 PM on MBC. T h i s J u s t In !

The third episode, broadcast on March 20th, had a shocking conclusion. Kim Geon-mo came in last place and was set to be eliminated, but the producers of the show decided at the last minute to let him stay on for another episode. Viewers were angered by this blatant violation of the rules. 10 Magazine April 2011 | 39

NATIONWIDE

April 7th Gnomeo & Juliet 노미오와 줄리엣 UK. Animation/ comedy. James McAvoy, Emily Blunt; dir. Kelly A. Asbury.

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or further – their edification (though most fans will say that Queen was at their best live). It’s axiomatic that without (a) Queen, music fans everywhere would be mired in some flawed, republican morass—and one wouldn’t want that now, would one? *

Chrisette Michele Queen Greatest Hits 1 & 2 Remastered Universal Right up front, let me note that my preferred albums from Queen remain their first two releases, as they were absolutely riveting when they first hit the music world. That being said, Queen were – and still remain – one of the best bands ever to grace stages, turntables, cassette decks, CD players, and modern digital media anywhere. These two remastered CDs pretty much cover all the band’s hits and present an aural experience that will confirm their place in rock music’s Asgard, making it a regal addition to any music collection. There’s no point in critiquing every tune on these CDs as most potential buyers will know them inside out; others not as familiar with the band can now acquire a noteworthy collection of rock classics with which to begin –

Let Freedom Reign Island/Def Jam Another entry in the socalled R&B genre that merely carries on along the same derivative, formulaic pat h as ever y other album of its type. Not a bad release per se; the vocals are clear and somewhat fresh, the musical accompaniment accomplished enough, and the production as competent as it is slick, but, like just about every other product in this vein, there’s no real spark. The title track does contain some moments of poignancy – courtesy of Talib Kweli – and a couple of other tunes (“If Nobody Sang Along,” and “Unsaid”) stretch a little further than the usual modern R&B self-reflective torment, but unless the listener is truly into acquiring everything offered up by contemporary female R&B singers, this CD will not open up any new vistas. It’s a decent effort as far as it goes, but Janelle Monae it certainly by M i c h a e l B e rry isn’t.

5dolls Charming Five Dolls Core Contents Media The girls from Co-Ed plus one form a subgroup for their debut EP, Charming Five Dolls, a set of conventional tracks that despite its trickled, watered-down pop-leftovers, still retains its dignity on the strength of its hooks. 5dolls draws heavily from contemporary girl groups 2NE1 and f(x) in both vocals and sound, serving the one-two punch of girl power and attitude, but lacking the effervescent personalities and charisma that make individual members stand out. Tracks such as “I Mean You” and “Trickle (Zurururu),” shy away from full-on electro or hip-hop and instead cling to casual disco and fluffy eurodance like tourists dropping by the club with point-and-shoots in hand. “Good for You” and “Wait Right There” are left to pick up the pieces of sustainable energy left behind. Without a titular anthem or cohesive image, the album is competent, but not especially charming. by A n n a Or z e l

Books This month, we review two books about Korea that couldn’t be more different. First is the groundbreaking Waxen Wings: The Acta Koreana Anthology of Short Fiction from Korea; second is the (slowly!) ground-covering A Slow Walk through Jeong-Deong. Waxen Wings (250 pages. W19,800), edited by Bruce Fulton, is a breakthrough. It is composed of works all of which will be enjoyable and comprehensible to Western readers who have little background on Korea. And what a collection it is, covering the colonial, division, industrial and posthan segments of modern Korean literature in nine brilliant stories. The collection kicks off with Yi Hyoseok’s ecstatic naturalist stor y “In the Mountains,” followed by Ch’ae Manshik’s “Constable Maeng,” a rumination on the cost of colonization. “Weaver Women” by O Chong-hui and “We Sell Shame” by the recently deceased Pak Wan-so focus on 40 | 10 Magazine April 2011

the lowered social status of women, while “Prison of the Heart,” by Kim Won-il, deftly considers the costs of losing one’s early convictions. “The Pager” by Kim Youngha is an amusing and sad story of a nondescript, nearly sad-sack fellow who makes a brave and unexpected move towards romance (or does he?). “Waxen Wings,” the story for which the collection is named, is Ha Seong-nan’s brilliant meditation on the cost of dreams and achieving them. This story alone is worth the price of the book. “Corpses,”by Pyeon Hye-yeong is an ubercreepy horror story, and “The Glass Shield”

by Kim Chung-yeok is an ironic look at friendship, dreams, and the impact of success on them. This collection is THE introductory volume for anyone interested in Korean literature, and a great read on its own merits. Michael Gibb’s A Slow Walk through Jeong-Dong (144 pages. W13,000) is an entirely different kind of book. It takes the reader on a slow, introspective and meditative journey through just about 1 kilometer of Seoul and contains a lovely fold-out map of the area it discusses. Beginning and ending at a pagoda tree standing in front of the Canadian embassy, Slow Walk passes through one of the most beautiful and interesting sections of Seoul. Gibbs artfully embellishes the trek with historical anecdotes dating as far back as the Joseon dynasty and as recent as the barely two-year old anti USbeef demonstrations. Readers of this book should find themselves looking at familiar neighborhoods a little differently, perhaps more carefully, by its conclusion.

Tech

by S ta ff o r d L u msde n

Tech Tips for Fashion Followers

orama shots and videos and images able to be enlarged using pinch-to-zoom. These features are both attractive and innovative ways of looking at Adidas’ offerings. And for the social networking crowd, each page has a link to Twitter feeds and the Adidas Originals’ YouTube Channel.

Nab these iPhone apps to keep ahead of the fashion curve. This series of apps show that fashion houses both in Europe and here in Korea are taking the Internet and mobile computing seriously while recognizing that it’s not just we boys who are seeking out our favorite content via our phones. F e nd i & m y F E N D I

The 85-year- old Italian leather goods manufacturer Fendi has embraced the iPhone and iPad with not one but two apps. The first, simply called “Fendi,” introduces users to the world of Fendi with photos and videos of their Spring and Summer 2011 collections, interviews with Silvia Fendi and head designer Karl Largerfeld, the ability to send Fendi themed e-cards and a store f inder which will point you in the direction of your nearest Fendi boutique—Hyundai De-

nationwide Hotlines Emergency 119 Police 112 Directory Assistance 114 Medical Information Center 1339 This is a 24-hour, nationwide hospital information service available in English, Korean, Chinese and Japanese.

partment Store COEX in my case! myFENDI is a unique approach to both fashion and apps, a wardrobe “simulator” that lets users take photos of their favorite looks, garments and accessories which can then be organized by season, color, style or any other criteria the user wants. This is great for remembering that great style you saw when out on the streets of Myeongdong.

Tr e ndS to p Fas h i o n Tr e nd Tr ack e r

A d i da s S t y l e B o o k

The Adidas Style Book is an interactive magazine promoting Adidas’ Originals collections. Originally published for Fall / Winter 2010 and showcasing Stella McCartney’s contribution to the label, the app has been recently updated to include the new “Blue” collection for Spring / Summer 2011. Within the “pages” of this app, users will find interactive 360º panCitibank citibank.co.kr Deutsche Bank Bank of America Bank of China BNP Paribas bnpparibas.co.kr HSBC

Trend Stop’s Fashion Trend Tracker will keep you up to date with the fashion world almost in real time with daily updates to the news and “cool stuff” sections while also providing both photos and videos of the latest moves on the runway. TrendStop provides some gorgeous videos and photos from fashion shows all over the world and has a complete listing for every major show (and links to even more video and photos) past and coming up in the next 6 months. So if you can’t be in London for fashion week, you can always catch up on Alfred Dunhill’s show afterwards with Trend Tracker!

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Major Foreign Banks American Express americanexpress.co.kr 02-2000-8100 Australia & New Zealand Banking Group 02-3700-3100 China Construction Bank ccbseoul.com 02-6730-1718

Villa Orchid

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10 Magazine April 2011 | 41

Geumgangsan Dark Ale and Chicken Pepper Poppers

SEOUL

Craftworks Taphouse All Hail the House-Brewed Ale!

Food Review W o rds a nd s h ots by J o e mcp h e r s o n

Craftworks’ brews hit the bull’s eye, but the bar food is a little hit and miss.

irst, a little confession - I used to work in a brewpub and got very intimate with their selections after closing time. Since then, I’ve been hunting for a truly fine brewpub that hits all those notes. Craftworks Taphouse has been getting a lot of buzz since it opened a few months ago in the Itaewon/Gyeongridan area. They craft their own beers in Gangwon Province and serve them up under lively local brand names such as Namsan Pure Pilsner and Gwanaksan Kölsch. Craftworks comes about as close as you can get to the ideal brewpub in Korea. The hefeweizen delivered some of that nosy punch I was searching for. The dark ale has depth, and the pilsner is fresh and clean and would make a great summer brew. I’m looking forward to seeing some hoppier selections in the future. But a good brewpub is more than the sum of its beers. It needs to offer a combination of unpretentious but flavorful grub and a relaxing atmosphere in addition to what comes out of the tap. Craftworks has a lot going for it. The interior feels like a neighborhood bar that knew my name before I opened the door. 42 | 10 Magazine April 2011

The servers are professional yet sociable. The atmosphere is intimate without being cramped. And it has a golden location where a steady stream of expat beer lovers will perch themselves on stools with suds and smiles. The food is pretty good but doesn’t always match the quality of the house-brewed beer. The place has gone through a series of menu experiments as it tries to find its stride. Some items shine on the menu. The sliders have that backyard barbecue feel. The chicken pepper poppers are made with succulent carved breast meat with smoky, spicy chipotle sauce drizzled on top. Both those dishes are good beer pals. Some of the dishes at Craftworks would not be seen at the same dance as their nicely crafted pils, however. The weakest link for me was the deep-fried flour tortillas drizzled in chipotle sauce. There’s a reason that corn tortillas are deep-fried instead of flour. They hold their own against the oil instead of absorbing it. The chips are just too greasy to let you to enjoy what otherwise would be a very tasty chipotle sauce. Craftworks has a great market to tap but also some strict critics. It still has a little fine-tuning to do before it hits that perfect chord, but if you’re in the market for some quality domestic brew at the right price, this is a great choice. 10 Magazine reimburses reviewers for their meals and never notifies restaurants that they will be reviewed.

Sliders

English menu In the designated area Quite veggie friendly On the first floor Accepted Great beers and atmosphere Tortillas are flour instead of corn. W5,000 - W19,000 02-794-ALES craftworkstaphouse.com Myeongsan Bldg, Yongsan-gu, Itaewon 2-dong #651, Seoul 140-861 11:30 am – 2 am (Closed Monday)

FOODIE FINDS

Sandwiches of Style and Substance Located in the side street (sometimes called Serosu-gil) that runs parallel to Garosu-gil in Gangnam, Deli Heinzberg combines crisp, modern design with solid, great-tasting comfort food. Try the Mushroom Botanica Panini (W5,800) for a feast of sautéed mushrooms with shaved cheddar and sun-blushed tomatoes. Or if you’re in the mood for something meatier, a burger - nicely cooked, quality beef served with a variety of toppings - is an excellent choice. Seafood lovers, however, should look no further than the Moby Dick (W10,700 won, see picture): in this leviathan, a whole fillet of snapper is studded with shrimp, deep-fried in seasoned breadcrumbs and served as a titanic open sandwich with red onion, peppers, and light tartar sauce. Located close to Sinsa Stn. (line 3, ex. 8). 02-541-8780 by Da n n y O’Su lli va n

made Freshly chips potato

Everything but the Fonz It’s official. Koreans have really taken a liking to burgers lately— serious burgers. When Johnny Rockets moves into town, it doesn’t do so to carve out new territory. It does so because there’s a ready market. This 50s American diner-themed chain, despite its kitsch, strives to take the fun parts of that period and pack it into a restaurant. Yeah, they have dancing servers and jukeboxes at the tables playing classic tunes. But the burgers are thick and classic. The main reason to go here is the hand-dipped milkshakes. You can’t say you’ve been there without one. This first of five proposed locations is in the food court of the Shinsegae Department Store at the Express Bus Terminal (near the line 3 station of the same name). 02-3479-1220 by Joe McPherson

TAKE OUT MON-THU 5PM-2AM

Cheil worldwide 제일기획

Itaewon Fire Station 이태원 소방서

FRI/SAT 4PM-3AM SUN 4PM-2AM

02-794-5598

Hamilton Hotel 해밀턴 호텔

10 Magazine April 2011 | 43

SEOUL DISCOVERIES

Tour Treats Visitors to Authentic Eats

SEOUL

Your education in Korean culinary culture begins in the alleyways of Jongno. The “jong” in Jongno means “bell” in Korean, explains our tour leader, Daniel Gray. I’d lived in Korea for a year now and I had no idea. This is just one of the many things I discovered on the Korean Night Dining Tour with Ongo Food Communications. The tour takes visitors and foreigners living in Seoul through the alleyways of the Jongno area to experience truly local eats and drinks. This is the kind of place where ajosshis sip soju through the night and delicious meat is cooked on the grill in front of you. First on the list is the primer—a Korean drinking classic called dubu kimchi (두부김치), tofu kimchi, a dish that goes perfectly with the traditional rice wine makgeolli (막걸리). We went on to dine at a tent restaurant where the ajumma fried up egg rolls and chicken gizzards as we learned Korean drinking games and went through a few bottles of cheongha alcohol. Then it was onto a barbecue place where we were serenaded by a man on the accordion (and the sound of sizzling diaphragm). It didn’t end there, though. Gray led us through even more alleys back to Gwangjang Market to sample delicious jeon (전), a Korean pancake made from mung beans. Once there, we attempted a few more drinking games with locals at the table next to us. This is the essence of the tour: there is no façade. This tour isn’t prim or proper—it’s for those who aren’t afraid to roll up their sleeves and get to know Korea by going where the locals go and eating what they eat. It’s a mini-education in Korean history through food. Even better, the venues change, so there’s always variety. Onetime visitors get an accurate portrayal of Korean specialties and culture, while foreigners living in Seoul will discover places they wish they had visited long ago.

Tours usually run 6 – 10 pm and cost W80,000. ongofood.com 02-3446-1607 Words and shots by Lisa Xing

44 | 10 Magazine April 2011

SEOUL CALENDAR Design & Fashion April 2nd Platoon Kunsthalle Night Flea Market Usually held the first Saturday of every month, this flea market is a fantastic chance to pick up a few accessories to enhance your wardrobe. Platoon is located in Apgujeong near Hakdong Stn. (line 7, ex. 10). Confirm date on website. 8 pm – 12 am. kunsthalle.com 02-3447-1191

Art

Through April 3rd The Silkroad and Dunhuang This exhibit presents the history of the Silk Road that connected the East and West through an examination of the writings of 8th century Korean monk Hyecho. National Museum of Korea. Ichon Stn. (line 4 & Gyeongui, ex. 2). Tues, Thurs, & Fri 9 am – 6 pm. Wed & Sat 9 am – 9 pm. Sun & Holidays 9 am – 7 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W10,000, students W8,000 - W9,000, children W5,000. Free. museum.go.kr 02-2077-9000 Through April 4th Dr Autopoli’s Lab: A Solo Exhibition by Dong Hyun Kim Gana Art Center in Insadong. monsterhyun.com 02-720-1020 Through April 17th Festival Bo:m Festival Bo:m is an international festival of performing arts and visual arts that is multicultural as well as multi-genre. Performances held at a number of venues across the city. festivalbom.org 02-730-9616 Record of Filial Duty and Courtesy: Joseon Dynasty Epitaphs Artifacts from the Joseon dynasty will be showcased. National Museum of Korea near Ichon Stn. (line 4 & Gyeongui, ex. 2). Closed Mon. Free. museum.go.kr 02-2077-9000 Through May 16th Animal Science Seoul National Science Museum near Hyehwa Stn. (line 4, ex. 4). 9:30 am - 7:50 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W11,000, students W10,000, children W9,000. ssm.go.kr 02-747-1393 Through May 22nd Karsh Exhibition Yousuf Karsh, one of the world’s most noted portrait photographers, had a gift of capturing the essence of his subject in his portraits. He photographed many of the celebrated personalities of his generation. This exhibition includes about 100 photos taken between 1930 - 1990, featuring Winston Churchill, Andy Warhol, Chagall, Audrey Hepburn, Elizabeth Taylor, and others. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Bus Terminal Stn. (line3, ex.5) sac.or.kr 02-792-2633 Through May 29th “Experience the Five Senses” Exhibition If you think that art is boring and hard to understand, give it another try at this exhibit. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 11 am - 8 pm. Adults W12,000, children W10,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Through September 11th Ethnic Earthenware from the Asian Heart Earthen sculptures are the focus of this exhibit, which tries to get to the

April 3rd Sketching along the Cheonggye Stream Sketch and the City invites you to accompany other local artists for a drawing session on the banks fo the Cheonggye Stream in Seoul. Jonggak Stn. (line 1, ex. 12). Noon - 6 pm. W10,000 to borrow supplies. szpada@gmail.com April 6th - 12th Expressions Exhibition An art exhibition by expat students from all over the world including Korea, USA, the Philippines, Brazil, and others. They were all taught by artist Sun-Im Koh. Kyung-In Museum of Fine Art in Insadong. Opening reception on April 9th 3 - 5 pm. 10:30 am - 6 pm. kyunginart.co.kr 02-733-4448

SEOUL

Through March 31st Carmelo Sortino Exhibition An Italianborn Canadian chef, Carmelo Sortino has found his passion in both food and painting. Mostly inspired by juicy fruits, he instills the beauty of the Mediterranean into his paintings. Gallery Through near Itaewon Stn. (line 6, ex.2).11 am - 7 pm. Free. gallerythrough.com 02-3444-9700

bottom of what it means to be Asian. National Museum of Korea near Ichon Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Tue, Wed, Fri 9 am – 6 pm. Wed, Sat 9 am – 8 pm. Sun 9 am – 7 pm. museum.go.kr 02-2077-9000

April 10th Glove Bunnies Workshop for Charity Hosted by Laughing Tree Galley, this workshop will allow each attendee to make their own stuffed creature out of a pair of gloves, with all proceeds going to Educate A Child. Maloney’s Pub in Gyeongnidan from 12 - 4 pm. W15,000. laughingtree.com April 15th - 20th Concrete Experience CE is a journal of contemporary photography and creative writing that is aimed at delivering content to creative-minded individuals. Concrete Experience’s launch party and exhibition of photography from their first issue takes place on 4/15 from 6 - 10 pm. Gallery is open 4/16 - 4/18 from 4 - 9 pm. Artist salon with photographers: 4/19 & 4/21 from 7 - 9 pm. 8mm: Art Cinema bonus feature and Henri Cartier-Bresson: The Impassioned Eye: 4/20 from 8 - 11 pm. laughingtree.com Uncle Wood & Ms. Silver The work of five artists using wood, silver, and other materials for art jewelry. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 April 21st - 24th Seoul Photo Fair Unlike other art fairs, this one focuses on photography. B Hall at COEX near Samsung Stn. (line 2, ex. 5 & 6). Thurs - Sat 11 am - 8 pm, Sun 11 am - 6 pm. W10,000. seoulphoto.org 02-6000-8108

Theater & Dance Ongoing The Ballerina Who Loved a B-Boy This story of a would-be ballerina who falls for a b-boy street dancer is a genrebending mash-up of break dance and ballet. Lotte World Art Hall at Jamsil Stn. (line 2). Wed – Thu 8 pm, Fri 5 & 8 pm, Sat – Sun 3 & 6 pm. Closed Mon & Tue. W50,000. showbboy.com 02-2266-3727 Battle B-Boy Romance at a dance tournament serves as the setting for this exhibition of awesome dance routines and soaring aerial moves. B-Boy Theater Samjin B/D B1 in Hongdae. Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 6 pm, Sun and holidays 2 & 6 pm. W50,000. sjbboys.com 02-323-5233 Drawing Show Art exhibit or performance? The drawing show is as fun to watch as it is hard to classify. Drawing Show now presents a totally new show named “Hero” at a different location. Myungbo Art Hall in Chungmuro in Seoul (Chungmuro Station, ex. 7). Weekdays 8 pm, Sat 4 & 7 pm, Sun 3 & 6 pm. Closed Mon. W40,000 - W50,000. drawingtheater.com 02-766-7848

10 Magazine April 2011 | 45

SEOUL CALENDAR E di tor’ s Pick

Cirque du Soleil:

Varekai

SEOUL

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Starting April 6th

Drum Cat These six Korean ladies may dress a bit provocatively, but their musical ability will chase away any doubts, or raised eyebrows, once the performance begins. Myungbo Art Hall - Haram Hall (Jung-gu). Tues - Sat 4 & 10 pm. Sun & holidays 4 pm. Closed Mon. W40,000 - W50,000. drumcat.co.kr 02-586-8489

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Folk Perfomances Performances like traditional dances, gut (exorcism rites), and Korean classical music, are held every Saturday at 2 pm. National Folk Museum at Gyeongbok Palace. 3 pm. Museum admission gives free access to the performances. nfm.go.kr 2-3704-3114

Korea House Performance Head over to the Korea House for two daily performances based on traditional Korean culture. You can also sample Korean royal cuisine before the show. Chungmuro Stn. (lines 3 & 4, ex. 3). 7 – 8 pm, 8:50 – 9:50 pm. Dinner price starts at W68,000. Performance is W50,000. kangkoku.or.kr 02-2266-9101 Miso Chongdong Theater presents Miso, a story of one woman’s encounter with love told through traditional dance, percussion, and music. City Hall Stn.

46 | 10 Magazine April 2011

(lines 1, 2), 4 & 8 pm. Closed Mon. W30,000 – W50,000. miso.mct.or.kr 02-751-1500

Fanta-stick This slapstick nonverbal show offers young ones lots of laughs. Located at the 63 Building in Yeouido. Tue - Sun 8 pm. W32,000 - W50,000. fanta-stick.co.kr 02-789-5664

Jump Two would-be thieves break into a house full of martial arts masters! First performed in 2003, this non-verbal show combines a comic story with martial arts moves and impressive visuals. Downtown near Jonggak Stn. Mon 8 pm, Tue – Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun 3 & 6 pm. W40,000 – W50,000. hijump.co.kr 02-722-3995

TAKE OUT AVAILABLE

Theater

[continued from p. 37] arts and street entertainment. In their version of the story, instead of drowning in the sea below him, Icarus lands in the shadowy kaleidoscope of a magical forest populated by extraordinary, and sometimes absurd, creatures. Varekai, which translates to “wherever” in the Romani language, pays tribute to the nomadic soul. With a fantastical display of visual and audio arts, the jaw-dropping costumes are loosely inspired by the natural world and the mixture of quiet and upbeat songs is performed live by seven musicians and two singers throughout the show. You can immerse yourself in the spirit and art of the circus tradition at the Big Top in the Jamsil Sports Complex Square. Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun 2 & 6 pm. W60,000 - W220,000. cirquedusoleil.co.kr 02-541-6235

Nanta This kitchen percussion extravaganza is the non-verbal stage show that nearly everyone sees at least once. Two Seoul locations and performances almost daily. Refer to website for more details. W50,000 – W60,000. nanta.co.kr 02-739-8288 Through March 31st Jekyll and Hyde: The Musical Charlotte Theater near Jamsil Stn (line 2, ex. 3). Tue - Fri 8 pm. Sat 3 & 7 pm. Sun 2 & 6 pm. Closed Mon. Check the website for more details on dates and times. W50,000 - W130,000. jekyllnhyde.co.kr 1644-0078 April 2nd - 3rd The Vagina Monologues at Roofers A fundraising play to raise money and spread awareness of the fight to end violence against women. Proceeds will be donated to The House of Sharing in Korea. The production will be in English with Korean subtitles. Saturday 8 pm, Sunday 2 pm. Roofers in Itaewon. W10,000. FianoJeanne@gmail.com

E di tor’ s Pick

Theater Highlights This Month From the classic to the contemporary, this month’s theater schedule offers viewers an in-depth look at the diverse interests of expat directors in Korea.

between

April 8th – 17th

April 9th – 17th

Seoul’s expatriate Shakespearian company, Actors Without Barders, will launch their first fully staged production, William Shakespeare’s Macbeth, the second weekend of April. The story of the ambitious thane spurred to murder by his wife is one that captures the basest of all human emotion: naked greed. AWB’s interpretation is set in a post-apocalyptic, war-ravaged wasteland that leaves characters fighting not only to rise in rank, but for their very survival. In this world stretched to the very breaking point, how far will Macbeth go to stand at the top? Changu Theater, Myeongdong Stn. (line 4, ex. 10). 4/9: 7 pm, 4/10: 3 pm, 4/16: 3 & 7 pm, 4/17: 3 pm. Talk back follows the 4/17 show. W15,000. awbticketing@gmail.com

SEOUL

Dear....mother? How do you write a letter to the woman who gave you away 20 years ago? between encapsulates Amy Mihyang’s experiences as a KoreanAmerican, New Yorker, and adoptee. Bringing the audience with her on her NYC-to-Korea flight, Mihyang contrasts her journey with echoes of other adoptees and those touched by the act of adoption, asking, “Do we need to know where we came from in order to know where we’re going?” The play is performed in Korean and English. Proceeds will go to KUMFA, a Korean group that provides financial assistance, guidance, and resources for unwed mothers and their families. Club After Mainstage in Itaewon. Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun 4 & 6 pm. W15,000. seoulplayers.com, ticketing@seoulplayers.com

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Suicide in Vegas April 28th – May 1st

MW Productions, in association with Probationary Theatre Company, present Suicide in Vegas, a world premiere oneact comedy by award-winning Canadian play w r ight Evan Placey. Lydia, a rags-to-riches self-help guru from Canada, has achieved fame and fortune through embellishment and lies. Meanwhile, Jane is continually dehumanized and discounted as a tollbooth operator in Ohio. Through a random internet search, these women connect with each other and vow to take the plunge together. But surviving (and dying) is trickier than it seems in Vegas. White Box Theatre, Hyochang Park Stn. (line 6, ex. 2). Thu – Fri 9 pm, Sat 6 & 8 pm, Sun 4 pm. W15,000. probationarytheatre.com, probationarytheatre@gmail.com 10 Magazine April 2011 | 47

SEOUL CALENDAR

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April 8th - 24th Hamlet: The Play Presented by the Seoul Theater Troupe to mark its 15th anniversary. Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). Tue - Fri 8 pm, Wed 4 & 8 pm, Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 3 pm, dark Mondays. W20,000 - W30,000. sejongpac.or.kr 02-399-1136 April 9th - 10th V-Day: The Vagina Monologues A production of Sowol Art Hall near Wangsimni Stn. (line 2 & 5, ex. 9). Sat 7 pm, Sun 3 pm. W20,000, Students with valid ID W15,000. RSVP at vdayseoultix@gmail.com. vdayseoul.com

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April 19th John Legend John Stephens may have a bold stage name, but his nine Grammy awards to date and collaborations with Billboard mainstays Kanye West, Alicia Keys, Jay-Z, and others suggest that it was well chosen. AX-Korea near Gwangnaru Stn. (line 5, ex. 2). 8 pm. W110,000. ax-korea.com 02-3141-3488

April 26th - May 1st The Chorus; Oedipus: Musical Theater LG Arts Center near Yeoksam Stn. (line 2, ex. 7). Weekdays 8 pm, weekend 3 & 7 pm. W40,000. lgart.com 02-2005-0114

Film

April 29th - May 25th Turando: The Musical Puccini’s famous opera is refashioned as a musical. Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 4 pm. Dark Mondays. W30,000 - W50,000. sejongpac.or.kr 02-399-1772

Ongoing Saturday Chamber Music Enjoy your Saturday afternoon sipping a cup of coffee as you listen to great classical pieces played by the chamber orchestra at KT Chamber Hall in Mokdong. This event occurs every other Saturday. This month: 4/2 & 4/16. 4 pm. ktchamberhall.com 02-3414-2063

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48 | 10 Magazine April 2011

PARK HERE

Hannam-dong Community Center Parking Lot

The Radio Dept. in Seoul This Swedish indie band is playing at V-Hall near Hongik Univ. Stn. (line 2, ex. 9). Advance W49,000, door W55,000. supercolorsuper.com 02-563-0595

April 21st - 24th Tosca: The Opera Puccini’s masterpiece involves the usual melodramatic elements of lust, deception, and betrayal. Performed by the Seoul Opera Troupe. Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). Thu - Fri 7:30 pm, Sat 3 & 7:30 pm, Sun 5 pm. W20,000 W120,000. sejongpac.or.kr 02-399-1783

Concerts

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April 19th Gilberto Gil: The String Concert His 7 Grammy awards and 4 million records sold make singer and guitarist Gilberto Gil one of the most respected and renowned musicians in Brazil. This will be his first concert in Korea. LG Arts Center near Yeoksam Stn. (line 2, ex. 7). 8 pm. W40,000 - W120,000. lgart.com 02-2005-0114

March 30th Ne-Yo Powerful songs like “So Sick” and “Because of You” cemented the reputation of this R&B superstar. Gymnastics Arena at Olympic Park. 8 pm. W60,000 - W150,000. April 1st MGMT MGMT is an American psychedelic rock band based in Brooklyn, New York. They blend the eclectic sounds of psychedelic pop, synth pop and alternative rock to create a sound all of their own. Ax-Korea near Gwangnaru Stn. (line 5, ex. 2). 8:30 pm. W99,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-323-2838 April 9th Incognito This British band mixes it up with jazz, funk, and soul. Special guest House Rulez will also be performing. AXKorea near Gwangnaru Stn. (line 5, ex. 2). 7 pm. W99,000. ax-korea.com 02-457-5114 April 12th Eric Benet Multiple Grammy nominee Eric Benet will perform to promote the release of his 5th studio album. AX-Korea near Gwangnaru Stn. (line 5, ex. 2). 8 pm. W99,000. ax-korea.com 02-457-5114 April 17th Colin Currie and Hakan Hardenberger Swedish trumpeter Hakan Hardenberger is joined by Scottish percussionist Colin Currie. LG Arts Center near Yeoksam Stn. (line 2, ex. 7). 7 pm. W30,000 - W50,000. lgart.com 02-2005-0114

Ongoing 8mm: Art Cinema Every other Wednesday night, Laughing Tree Gallery hosts a free movie night featuring documentaries and art films. Bring your own drinks. 4/13: Easy Rider. 4/27: Exit Through the Gift Shop. Laughing Tree Gallery is located in Haebangchon near Noksapyeong Stn. (line 6). 8 - 11 pm. “8mm: Art Cinema” on Facebook Jessica@LaughingTree.com Through May 21st Carlos Amorales: Silent Films The Songeun Art Space in Cheongdamdong is hosting an exhibition of Mexican filmmaker Carlos Amorales’ silent films as well as some of his sketches. Sponsored by the Embassy of Mexico, this event is entirely free. Take a bus from Apgujeong Stn. (line 3, ex. 2). 11 am - 7 pm. Closed Sunday. songeunartspace.org 02-3448-0100

Family & Community Ongoing Dialogue in the Dark Switch off the sight, switch on the insight. Vertigo Tower in Shinchon. Weekdays 12 – 8:30 pm, weekends 10 am – 7 pm. Closed Mon. W20,000 - W30,000. dialogueinthedark.co.kr 02-313-9977 April 10th Chat! for April Lodang Traditional Tea Café, Insadong. Meet at Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex.6). 4 pm. seoulsg2.com 010-6388-4961

Education & Conferences Ongoing KOICA Global Village: Africa Africa may be wracked with poverty, but it is also a location of enormous potential. Learn more at this exhibit. 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. blog.naver. com/geovillage 02-3460-5800 Weekly Lecture on Buddhism Curious about the practice of Zen Buddhism? English lectures by Zen Master Subul Sunim and others will prove enlightening. 2:30 - 4:30 pm every Saturday except national holidays. Anguk Zen Center, 5 minutes on foot from Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex. 2). angukzen.org 011-229-2829 April 5th Pansori Past and Present: Yeol Lecture Professor Heather Willoughby will present a lecture on the intersection

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ANZA Oceanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 11 Charity Ball April 30th

Community

Tickets are now on sale for the Oceanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 11 Ball, organized by ANZA (Australia and New Zealand Association). The theme for this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ball was inspired by the 1960s Rat Pack era in Las Vegas. Dean Martin and Frank Sinatra were the stars of the day, with casinos, big bands, stylish gowns and beautiful women completing the picture. The evening will begin with a glamorous cocktail function set in a casino-themed room complete with crap tables before guests move into the theatre-styled ballroom for a much-anticipated performance by the Australian group The Rat Packâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Back. This high-impact, theatrical cabaret show recreates the sound of the Big Band era and features three of Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s biggest talents: David Malek, Dale Burridge and Derek Metzger. The Rat Packâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Back lend their style and soaring vocals to songs made famous by Frank Sinatra, James Dean and Sammy Davis Jr. Filled with the elegance and sophistication of a bygone era, the ANZA 2011 Ball promises members and guests an unforgettable evening. The contributions of guests and the generous support of major sponsors including Macquarie Group, MLA (Meat & Livestock Association of Australia) and Agility allows ANZA to continue its support of charities. The five Korean charities that will benefit from the night are Raphael House, Jeon Jin Sang Centre, Mubupjungsa Youth Centre, Seoul Shelter for Women and Emmaus Welfare Centre. The ball will take place at the Grand Hyatt Ballroom. W225,000 members, W245,000 non-members. Book by April 15th at anzakorea.com. 10 Magazine April 2011 | 49

SEOUL CALENDAR E di tor’ s Pick

SEOUL

Viewing the Cherry Blossoms Mid-April

Family

For the last few months, Korea was covered in a blanket of snow and nearly unbearable below-zero temperatures. But as the bitter winter season finally comes to an end, spring will be making its appearance with the yellow and white cherry blossoms. At Yeouido National Assembly Building, the annual Yeouido Spring Flower Festival will be celebrated from Wednesday, April 13th to Sunday, April, 17th with thousands of people gathering to take in the fresh spring air and 1,400 magnificent cherry trees. But if you’re looking for more tranquil, and much less crowded, options, you can visit Lover’s Road at Yeongnam University and Seoul Grand Park. And all along the peninsula, there will be other festivals, including the Jeju Canola Flower Festival and Cheongpung Cherry Blossom Festival. For last year’s round-up, see the post on our site: 10mag.com/cherryblossoms

E di tor’ s Pick

Universe Korea Bodybuilding Contest April 30th

of past and present in performances of Korean traditional music. Seminar Room (2nd floor) at the Seoul Museum of History, Shinmun-ro. 10:30 am - noon. W10,000. yeol400@paran.com

Sport & Fitness March 31st - April 3rd Korea Golf Show With over 220 companies and 800 booths, amateur and pro-golfers are sure to find this exhibition helpful. Halls A & B at COEX at Samseong Stn. (line 2, exit 5 & 6). 10 am - 6 pm, Sun 10 am - 5 pm. W5,000. Free with online registration. kogolf.co.kr 02-6000-0114 2011 K-League April 2nd Seoul vs Jeonbuk at Seoul World Cup Stadium, 5 pm April 16th Seoul vs Ulsan at Seoul World Cup Stadium, 5 pm 2011 Baseball Games are held at Jamsil Stadium, home of the Doosan Bears and LG Twins. Doosan Bears 2nd - 3rd vs LG Twins 2 pm 8th vs KIA Tigers 6:30 pm 9th - 10th vs KIA Tigers 5 pm 19th - 21st vs Nexen Heroes 6:30 pm 26th - 28th vs Samsung Lions 6:30 LG Twins 5th - 7th vs SK Wyverns 6:30 pm 12th - 14th vs Samsung Lions 6:30 pm 15th vs Lotte Giants 6:30 pm 16th - 17th vs Lotte Giants 5 pm 22nd vs KIA Tigers 6:30 pm 23rd - 24th vs KIA Tigers 5 pm 29th vs Nexen Heroes 6:30 pm 30th vs Nexen Heroes 5 pm

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50 | 10 Magazine April 2011

Fitness

For some, exercising is a chore; for others, it’s a lifestyle. At the Universe Korea competition, body-builders from more than 20 countries will gather in Seoul to show everyone what they’re truly made of. Contestants strip down and bare their perfectly symmetrical bodies and cut muscles to be judged in categories that include modeling, muscle mania, figure, and Miss Bikini. The top five in each category will be granted entry to compete in the Universe World Championships held this June in Miami. Sign up now if you’d like to flex your muscles and participate. The competition will be held at Seoul Gangnam Citizens’ Center near Daechi Stn. (line 3, ex.6). 9 am. W10,000. musclemaniakorea.com 031-429-9889

April 29th Pilgrimage 222km Ultra Marathon

You thought the 108 km run was a tough one? How about doubling that? This race begins at the cathedral in Myeongdong and goes for 222 km, taking around 42 hours. Register by April 10th. catholic222.net 010-5218-9205

Dine & Drink Ongoing Korea Taste Tour With your culinary guide, visit a Buddhist-inspired Korean restaurant, get a quick tour of Insadong eateries, stop by a teahouse, and enjoy rice wine and Korean bar food snacks. W57,000 per person includes tax, food, drinks, and tour guide. Tours are usually Thu – Sun (3 people minimum) 11 – 1 pm. ongofood.com 02-3446-1607. Saturday Korean Cooking Classes This March, O’ngo Culinary School will be offering Saturday Cooking Classes for those hoping to learn Korean cuisine and meet other foodies. You’ll learn Korean favorites such as mandu, japchae, and sundubu throughout the month course. 4/2: banchan (Korean side dishes), 4/9: mandu and bibimguksu, 4/16: vegan cooking class: spinach and barley croquette, black bean side-dish and salad (10 am); sundubu and seafood pancake (3 pm). Saturdays at 11 am. ongofood.com 02-3446-1607

Nightlife Ongoing First Thursday Afterwork Party This monthly party for young professionals is held in a number of ritzy venues north and south of the river. afterworkseoul.com 010-9337-0275

E di tor’ s Pick

SEOUL

Club Volume Now Open Itaewon is becoming a contender for the best party district in Seoul, as the reopening of Club Volume goes to show. Located in the basement of the Crown Hotel, the 2-story club has undergone a complete renovation on both an aesthetic and atmospheric level. A fresh interior, an intimate Grey Goose lounge, direct views of the DJ booth from both floors, and a larger downstairs bar are just a few of the changes. Once renowned as a trance/ techno club, Volume will now feature electronic music including house, electro and tech-house on Fridays and Saturdays with R&B and commercial house sessions on Thursday nights to keep club fiends grooving throughout the week. Head south from Noksapyeong Stn. (line 6, ex. 3) and look for the Crown Hotel across the road. W20,000 before 11 pm, W30,000 after. clubvolume.com 1544-2635 Words by S e bas t i e n Ro u ss et Parties at Club Answer 1st: Aftermoon 2 Anniversary, 2nd: Escape Korea, 8th: House Graphy, 9th: Playmates, 15th: Ibiza Korea, 16th: Hunters, 22nd: Baletta, 30th: DJ B.Traits. Cheongdamdong. clubanswer.co.kr 02-514-4311 Parties at Club Heaven 1st: Ravor Party, 2nd: Calvertron, 8th: Freakhouze, 9th: Jonal Stenberg, 16th: Technoboy. Before midnight W20,000, after W30,000. Near Yeoksam Stn. clubheaven.co.kr 1644-8466 Parties at Club Mansion 1st: Sweet Room, 8th: D.Teck by Bandi, 9th: Eye Candy, 15th: 360 sounds, 22nd: Take My Hands, 29th: Idiotape Live, 30th: DJ Klaver. Hongdae. 02-3143-4037 mansionseoul@gmail.com Parties at Club Volume 2nd: GINA STAR (Toolroom Prod), 8th: Birthday Fridays, 9th: Copyright (Defected), 16th: DJ Falcon ( Roule, Paris), 22nd: Jonathan Ulysses (Space Ibiza), 23rd: Tocadisco, 30th: Defected In The House. Near Itaewon & Noksapyeong Stn. clubvolume.com 02-794-0257 Quiz Night at Craftworks Every Wednesday. Great prizes including W50,000 bar tab for 1st place. craftworkstaphouse.com 02-794-2537 Rhyme Time: Spoken Word and Poetry Every 2nd and 4th Thursday, head to Tony’s Aussie Bar in Itaewon for a literary evening. 8 pm. tonysitaewon.com 02-790-0793 Stand Up Seoul Comedy Night Korea’s finest English language comedians deliver monologues and rants about expat life and other topics. New acts are welcome! The show starts at 9 pm on every first Thursday of each

month at the Rocky Mountain Tavern in Itaewon. Facebook: Stand Up Seoul, james.hershberger@gmail.com Tony’s Stand-Up Comedy Tony’s Aussie Bar in Itaewon hosts a night of stand-up comedy every Wednesday. Sign up at 8 pm and see the show at 9 pm. tonysitaewon.com April 9th Hedkandi With special guest artist DJ Andy Norman and saxophonist Yasmin. M2 in Hongdae. clubm2.com 02-3143-7573 Mixtape A night of exuberant debauchery accompanied by danceable eclecticism. Hodgepodge in Hongdae. 9 pm. W5,000. 3F 407-3 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu. Search for “M I X T A P E” on Facebook. Party Definitions: Hello Kitty Gathering Party Crystal Lounge by Gangnam Stn. (line 2, ex. 1). 10 pm. W20,000. 010-4115-5905 April 14th Speed Dating 12 dates in an hour! White Box Theatre near Hyochang Park Stn. (line 6, ex. 2). 9 pm. W25,000. RSVP at probationarytheatre@gmail.com. probationarytheatre.com April 16th Argy at Club Eden Argy is a rising star in modern dance music. He’ll shake up the dance floor for all you dancers at Club Eden. eden-club.co.kr 02-6447-0042 May 6th - 8th 5th World DJ Festival No longer held in Seoul, the festival this years moves to Yangpyeong to escape the traffic snarl, congestion, smog, and city lights. Ticket prices start at W55,000 for two days with a three-day pass selling for W120,000. Purchase yours by April 17th to get significant discounts. worlddjfest.com

10 Magazine April 2011 | 51

SEOUL DIRECTORY

Foreigner Assistance

Transportation

ATEK (Association for Teachers of English in Korea) atek.or.kr Seoul Dasan (City Info) 02-120 Seoul Global Center global.seoul.go.kr 02-1688-0120 Yeoksam English 02-3453-9038 Yeonnam Chinese 02-6406-8151 Seorae French 02-570-6009 Ichon Japanese 02-2199-8882 Itaewon/Hannam English 02-2199-8883~5

International Taxi (English Speaking) 1644-2255 Jumbo Taxi Service (more expensive) 02-888-2000 Interactive Subway Map smrt.co.kr

Hostels Guest House Baenang Yongsan ghbaenang.com 010-9071-4641 Guesthouse Korea Jongno guesthouseinkorea.com 02-3674-2205 Bebop Guesthouse Hongdae bebop-guesthouse.com, 070-8261-4835 Kim’s Guesthouse Hongdae kimsguesthouse.com 02-337-9894 Namu Guesthouse Hongdae namugh.co.kr 070-8291-4878 Olympic Parktel Jamsil parktel.co.kr/english 02-410-2114 Seoul Backpackers Myeongdong seoulbackpackers.com 02-3672-1972

Travel Agencies

Medical Services

Seoul

SEOUL

Cosmo.jin Tour cosmojin.com Fides Travel fidestravel.co.kr

02-318-0345 02-755-5470

Automobiles

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ITAEWON TEL: 02.796.9633, 9636

A Plus Dental aplusdental.co.kr 02-3442-7616 Hus Hu Dental & Skin Clinic hus-hu.com 02-519-8013 Jaseng Hospital of Oriental Medicine Are you suffering from back or neck pain? Visit the non-surgical spinal specialists. jaseng.net 02-3218-2167 Korea Counseling Psychological Association krcpa.or.kr 02-498-8293 Korea HIV/AIDS Prevention & Support Center khap.org 02-927-4322 Ra Dental Clinic 02-569-8745 Tufts Dental Clinic 02-553-7512

National Museum of Korea museum.go.kr 02-2077-9000 National Palace Museum of Korea gogung.go.kr 02-3701-7500 Seoul Art Center sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Seoul Museum of Art seoulmoa.seoul.go.kr 02-120 Seoul National Science Museum ssm.go.kr 02-3668-2200 War Memorial warmemo.or.kr 02-709-3139 Classes

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52 | 10 Magazine April 2011

JNC Travel Itaewon Itching to travel? This travel agent offers worldwide discount air tickets, hotels, professional counseling, and package goods. Mon - Fri 10 am - 7 pm, Sat 10 am - 5 pm, Sun 1 - 5 pm. 02-796-9633 Unique Travel Itaewon uniquetravel.co.kr 02-792-0606 Xanadu Travel xanadu.co.kr 02-795-7771 Korean Tours

Adventure Korea adventurekorea.com 018-242-5536 Korean Safari koreansafari.com 019-542-2955 Korean Cooking Classes with Ms. Chang Want to do more than sightseeing? How about taking a Korean cooking class? This is your chance to experience the everyday meals of a Korean family. koreancookingclasses. blogspot.com 010-7193-2068 O’ngo Culinary Tours Korean food tours and cooking classes in Seoul. Tours and classes are taught by Korean food experts. Experience the culture through the cuisine. ongofood.com 010-6661-7769 Royal Asiatic Society Korea Branch raskb.com 02-763-9483 USO DMZ Tours affiliates.uso.org/korea 02-795-3028 WOW Corea Tour wowcoreatour.com 02-739-3337 Hotels/Accommodations

KoreaHotel.com Korea’s version of Expedia. koreahotel.com 4-5 Star Hotels Astoria 02-2268-7111 COEX InterContinental 02-3452-2500 Courtyard 02-2638-3000 Grand InterContinental 02-555-5656 JW Marriott 02-6282-6262 Millenium Hilton 02-753-7788 Renaissance 02-555-0501 Ritz-Carlton 02-3451-8000

WY Dentistry Gangnam Better than your dentist back home. Dr. Yoo is a US-trained and licensed dentist with over 20 years of clinical dental experience serving the expat community since 1996. wydent.com 02-514-5575

Bikram Yoga Gangnam Feel the 105°F heat of the original Bikram Yoga with 90-minute classes taught by passionate instructors. Behind the Kyobo Tower building, Sinnonhyeon Stn. (line 9, ex. 7). bikramyogakorea. co.kr 02-532-2101 Bellydance Lessons with Eshe Morning, afternoon, and evening classes, plus Sunday classes at the Well Being Studio. navah@live.com Fine Art Class Myeongdong 7 -1 pm Fridays. cafe.daum.net/artd 02-771-2026

Power.Diet.Yoga

Museums

Gahoe Museum gahoemuseum.org 02-741-0466 World Jewelry Museum wjmuseum.com 02-730-1610 Kimchi Field Museum kimchimuseum.co.kr 02-6002-6456 Kyung-in Museum of Fine Art Kyunginart.co.kr 02-733-4448 Leeum Samsung Museum of Art leeum.org 02-2014-6901 Museum of Korean Traditional Music ncktpa.go.kr 02-580-3130 National Folk Museum nfm.go.kr 02-3704-3114

Ballet.Stretching Ballet Stretching Itaewon Dance your days away with a diverse selection of classes available: child ballet, yoga, tae bo, yoga for pregnant women, pilates, diet dance, and even salsa classes. Private training available. Mon–Fri open 9 am–10 pm. 124-7 Itaewon-dong, yongsan-gu. 010-9309-9021

Religious

Buddhist Seoul International Zen Center seoulzen.org 02-900-4326 Vairocana International Buddhist Meditation Center 02-735-5347 Jetavana Meditation Center jetavanacenter@gmail.com 02-595-5115 Catholic Bomun 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Chunma 02-765-0870 Dongducheon 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Hannam International Church English, Italian, Spanish, French 02-793-2070 Hyewha-dong Catholic Church 02-764-0221 (press 6) Jinjob 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Keumchon 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Philippine Center Tagalog 02-765-0870 Pastral Center for Labor English, Vietnamese, Thai 02-924-2721 Salesio Labor Center Tagalog, Daelim 1 dong 02-765-0870 Sung-dong Social Welfare Center Tagalog 02-765-0870 Yoksam-dong Church 02-553-0801 Catholics in South Korea Facebook Group, Annamarie at sunshineamore25@gmail.com Islam Seoul Central Masjid 02-794-7307 Protestant Gwanglim Church 02-2056-5732 International Lutheran 02-794-6274 Jubilee Church 02-569-2293 Kumnan Church 02-490-7000 Myungsung Presbyterian 02-440-9000 New Philadelphia Church newphiladelphiachurch.com 02-706-2501 Onnuri Church 02-793-9686 Presbyterian Church of the Lord empcl.org 010-2266-6453 Somang Presbyterian 02-512-9191 Seoul Union Church 02-333-7393 Yoido Full Gospel Church 02-782-4851 Yongsan Baptist Church 02-796-0284 Cafes

Caffé Bene Whether it’s coffee, gelato, or a waffle you’re looking for, you can find it at one of the 400 Caffé Bene outlets across Korea. caffebene.co.kr 02-3438-6888

Caribou Coffee Popular in America, Caribou Coffee has expanded to Korea with locations at Ewha University, Sinchon, Yangjae, and Incheon Airport. Support fair trade with the Rainforest Alliance Certified coffee sold here. cariboukorea.co.kr 02-3461-5680

SEOUL

International Guides of Korea Courses in ice climbing, rock climbing and more. iguidekorea.com Jai Center for Yoga and Health jaicenter.co.kr 02-3443-9642 Pottery Classes at Yido Academy Gahoe-dong in Seoul. Fri 10 - 12 am. yidostyle@hanmail.net 02-744-0756 Salsa Lessons in English Top Bar near Apgujeong St. Call Crys at 010-4755-4728 Sanirang Alpine Networks This climbing service offers lessons, clinics, and guided tours. sanirang.net/about. html, info@sanirang.net Suseonjae Meditation and Deep Breathing Classes jihye@suseonjae.org 019-201-5958 Wise-Up Workouts Lose weight and get lean in less than 30 days guaranteed? Author and creator of the No. 1 gym-free program is now in Korea. 1 to 1 service. Grab the book “Wise-Up Workouts” at www. wiseupworkouts.com 010-4998-8722

Restaurants

American Chili King Itaewon Beefy burgers and chili served up by owner Kevin Cyr. 02-795-1303 Bonji Bistro Just behind Itaewon Hotel and under Gecko’s Garden, Bonji Bistro offers a terrific menu of salads, sandwiches, pastas and classic tapas along with an unbeatable bar. The floor-to-ceiling window door-walls open wide, making it the perfect place to be for their delicious weekend brunch. geckosterrace.com 02-795-9656 The Frypan 02-794-5598 Gallery Through Head here to enjoy fantastic meals, parties, art, and people. 02-798-1900

Gecko’s Terrace The original Itaewon foreigner hangout, with a comfortable atmosphere, delicious food including great sandwiches, salads and pasta, and English-speaking staff that know how to make cocktails and shots right. geckosterrace.com 02-749-9425 Gecko’s Garden Legendary for its gorgeous home-style atmosphere, Gecko’s Garden has now started offering a delicious buffet, with steaks and pasta made to order. Don’t worry; the tapas menu is also still alive and well. geckosterrace.com 02-790-0540 Hollywood Grill The place for Premier League Football and other sports, Hollywood has a great menu of pizza, pasta and steaks along with darts, foosball, pool and Golden Tee. hollywoodgrill.co.kr 02-749-1659 Naked Grill Terrific Mexican food, salads and steaks, cooked up to order in a trendy atmosphere. 02-749-4225 Pancakes Original Story Itaewon Mon – Sat 9 am – 10 pm. 02-794-0508

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SEOUL DIRECTORY Pita Time Haebangchon The salads, pitas and pizzas here provide a low-calorie, healthy meal. 11 am - 10 pm. pitatime.co.kr 02-790-8891

Villa Sortino’s Itaewon An incredible Tuscan Villa interior matches perfectly with some delicately prepared Italian flavors. Just across from the Itaewon fire station. 02-553-9000

SEOUL

The Pizza Peel Itaewon Offering fresh classic Italian and Western-style pizzas. Enjoy with beer or wine. We are hard to find but easy to remember! Dine in or take out. 02-795-3283 Suji’s Itaewon Great American fare in a New York-style bistro atmosphere. sujis.net 02-797-3698

NOKSAPYEONG STATION

T.G. Brunch Cafe Chef Choi from Hawaii serves a delightful brunch along with his signature burgers, sandwiches, and more. Wine W2,500 for ladies. Wednesdays wing night: 10 for W3,000. 02-749-8005 Toque Itaewon 02-794-3834 Austrian Chef Meili Itaewon 02-797-3820 BRAZILIAN Copacabana Itaewon For only W29,000 you get all-you-can-eat of 7 different cuts of roasted meat and a tremendous Brazilian buffet. Make your reservations today! 02-796-1660 Bulgarian Zelen Itaewon 02-749-0600 Chinese Ho Lee Chow Serving up the best North American-style Chinatown cuisine in Korea since 1998, with 5 convenient locations in the greater Seoul area to serve you. holeechow.co.kr. Itaewon 02-793-0802, Apgujeong 02-514-1730 Jamshil 02-411-0688, Dogok 02-34614468, Bundang 02-711-9071 French La Cigale Monmartre Itaewon 02-796-1244 Le Saint-Ex Itaewon 02-795-2465 Italian Fradia Gangnam Gaze out on a panoramic view of the Seoul skyline as you dine on choice Italian food at this cafe floating on the Han River. fradia.co.kr 02-3477-0033 La Bocca Itaewon We can’t decide whether it’s a cafe, pastry shop, deli, or wine bar, but what we are sure about is that the food is fresh and the taste is divine. labocca.co.kr 02-790-5907 Sortino’s Cucina Itaewon Classic Italian trattoria cuisine in a comfortable, homey atmosphere. 02-797-0488 Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong 02-790-0776

54 | 10 Magazine April 2011

all types of music. Noksapyeong St. (line 6). 457-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. awakeinseoul@gmail.com 02-749-0903

B1 Itaewon One of the most hopping bars in Itaewon on any given night, with guest DJs and a good vibe. 7 pm - 3 am. 02-749-6164

Bars/Lounges/Pubs

DAESUNG CHURCH

GYEONGRIDAN

02-794-8090 02-517-1135 02-792-8836

Wang Thai Itaewon Prepared by locally trained chefs, Wang Thai offers only the best of Thai food. Enjoy delicious food in an exotic ambience. 02-749-2746~7

All day american breakfast

IBK BANK

My Thai Itaewon Thai Orchid Itaewon Thai Garden Itaewon

Antonio’s Cheongdamdong Join chef Sebastiano Giangregorio for an authentic Italian culinary experience. Live jazz performances Friday and Saturday at 7:30. 93-8 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu. antonios.kr 02-3443-4333 korean Bulgogi Brothers Delicious Koreanstyle barbecue at locations throughout Seoul including Gangnam, Myeongdong (02-319-3351), Seoul Station, and Times Square. 11:30 am - 10 pm. bulgogibros.com Pulhyanggi Gangnam A tasty concoction of traditional Korean dishes and a contemporary slow-food sensibility, plus performances in the evenings. Close to COEX. 11 am – 10 pm. pulhyanggi.co.kr 02-539-3390 Mexican Amigos Itaewon 02-795-9711 On the Border The #1 American chain hits that craving for fajitas, chimichangas, tacos, burritos, enchiladas and even margaritas. ontheborder.co.kr Sinchon: 02-324-0682 COEX: 02-565-0682 Times Square: 02-2672-0682 Pancho’s Itaewon 02-792-4767 Taco Amigo Itaewon 02-749-5253 Tomatillo Grill Locations at Jonggak Stn., Samseong Stn., and Yeoksam Stn. tomatillo.co.kr 02-734-9225 Middle Eastern Istanbul Noksapyeong 02-796-0271 Marakech Nights Itaewon 02-795-9441 Petra Itaewon 02-790-4433 SPANISH Bodega Jamsil With flamenco on every Friday. bodega.co.kr 02-3432-8686 Thai Buddha’s Belly Itaewon A lounge atmosphere with full bar and cocktails along with great authentic Thai food. 02-796-9330 Eat Me Itaewon Thai fusion dining and lounge, late night kitchen in Itaewon. Relax in the intimate yet casual dining area and outside patio. Sophisticated atmosphere is sure to please. 070-7624-3149

Wine Bars Dulce Y Suave Garosugil Stop by this classy Sinsa-dong wine bar for an extensive wine list that won’t break your budget. 5 pm - 3 am. club.cyworld. com/dulceysuave. 02-515-6750 Vin Ga Apgujeong Immaculate service and a subdued atmosphere make this the wine bar of choice for dinner parties and business meetings. Podo Plaza building near Apgujeong St. podoplaza.co.kr 02-516-1761 Lounges / PUBS 3 Alley Pub Itaewon Rub shoulders with long-term Seoul expats and try your hands at darts or pool in this comfortable foreigner-owned pub. 116-15 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. 3alleypub.com 02-749-3336 Bar Rouge Itaewon Luxurious wine and tapas bar in the basement of the JW Marriot in Gangnam. Happy hour Tue - Thu 6 - 9 pm. 02-6282-6763

TWO GREAT LOCATIONS

B AR SHINCHON TEL:(02)3339733

Between Itaewon This multi-level lounge serves contemporary Italian and Spanish mains, lunch, brunch and tapas in a sophisticated atmosphere with live DJs and a spacious terrace. 124-7 Yongsangu, Itaewon-dong. 02-795-6164 Bliss Itaewon Fresh beats by DJ Shine and a reasonably priced menu. Itaewon. 4 pm – 4 am. 02-798-1125 BricX Hongdae, Itaewon Chill out at either of BricX’s two locations. Hongdae 6 pm – 5 am, 마포구 서교동 409-1, B1, 02-3141-5571. Itaewon 7 pm – 5 am, 용산구 이태원동 119-10, B1, bricx.com 02-795-5572 The Bungalow Itaewon This quirky beach-themed bar has sand on the floor, swinging chairs, and candle-lit rooms. 02-793-2344 Coffee Bar K Cheongdam-dong A Japanese franchise, they may just have the best bartenders in town. Mon – Sat 6 pm - 2 am. 02-516-1970

P IZ ZA ITAEWON TEL:(02)7920007

IBK BANK

NOKSAPYEONG STATION

w w w. be e ro c l o c k . c a Beer O’Clock The bar in Sinchon has darts and several sports on big-screen TVs with great food. The Kyeongnidan location will satisfy your Canadian-style pizza needs. Beer O’Clock serves up good times. Sinchon: 02-333-9733 Berlin Noksapyeong Combining a restaurant, cafe and lounge, Berlin boasts a varied menu, plus wines and

The Concorde Classic and cozy, this wine and martini bar offers an intimate and timeless atmosphere. Reuben sandwiches, quiche, soups and salads available till 1:00 am. 02-749-1210 Dillinger’s A classic-styled bar with seven beers on tap, great food and drink specials. Come enjoy our large flatscreen TVs, dartboards and Wii games. A great atmosphere for you and your friends. 02-793-7232 Ghetto Vox Itaewon Itaewon’s first art

SEOUL DIRECTORY

Tony’s Aussie Bar & Bistro Itaewon Home of W6000 Guinness & Kilkenny on tap. Non–smoking environment with authentic Aussie food, beer & wine with Monday open mic and Wednesday comedy night. tonysitaewon.com 02-790-0793 Wolfhound Itaewon Terrific Irish/British classic food in a true Irish Pub atmosphere, including shepherd’s pie, toad in a hole, fish n’ chips, bangers n’ mash along with Guinness and Kilkenny on draft. wolfhoundpub.com 02-749-7971 Live Music

Jazz All That Jazz Itaewon 02-795-5701 Cheonnyeondongando (천년동안도) Daehangno (Hyehwa St. Line4) chunnyun.com 02-743-5555 Club Evans Hongdae clubevans.com 02-337-8361 Club Palm Hongdae clubpalm.co.kr 02-336-9016 Once in a Blue Moon Apgujeong onceinabluemoon.co.kr 02-549-5490

InterContinental Hotel Oakwood Premier Woori Bank Teheranno

COEX

Seoul Pub Crawl Meet cool people, play drinking games and party all night long. Where the bars get louder, the drinks get cheaper and the people get better looking. www.seoulpubcrawl. webs.com 010-5839-9257 Seventy Four Cheongdam-dong A beautiful date spot featuring exotic drinks such as cheese martinis, banana mojitos and cuba libres. 7 pm – 4 am. 02-542-7412 So Much More Apgujeong Combining a hip interior design with the hottest

music and the coolest drinks. Noon - 2 am. blog.naver.com/ so_much_more 02-3447-7890

SEOUL

and music space. 32-5 (3rd floor) Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. ghettovox.com 010-3370-2979 Mike’s Cabin Sinchon This Western bar has a casual atmosphere and holds special events. Near the Yonsei University front gate. 02-325-7808 Monghwan Sinchon Come for the nice décor, live art and music events, and the signature cocktail soju. club. cyworld.com/monghwan 02-325-6218 Monkey Beach Apgujeong Thailand is just a subway ride away if you head to Monkey Beach. 7:30 pm – 5 am. 02-548-7930 Mix Lounge Garosu-gil It may look like a white greenhouse, but it’s actually a bar serving killer mojitos, lychee martinis and more. 6 pm – 3 am. Closed Sun. 011-9650-7055 Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong Great home-style Italian cuisine with late night cocktail lounge. 02-790-0776 Platoon Kunsthalle Apgujeong Showcasing underground artists and a fine selection of cutting-edge performances. 11 am – 1 am. Closed Sun. 97-22 Gangnam-gu, Nonhyeondong. kunsthalle.com 02-3447-1191 Rocky Mountain Tavern Itaewon Canadians feel right at home with all the hockey jerseys hanging on the walls and great live music and events, along with some of the best buffalo wings in Korea. Don’t miss the Stand Up Seoul comedy night the first Thursday of each month. rockymountaintavern.com 010-5775-2327 Roofers Itaewon Come hang out in a warm, friendly atmosphere. Sample the mouthwatering menu, relax on the spacious rooftop and enjoy numerous expat events. Facebook: Roofers Rooftop Bar. 02-749-2970 Sam Ryan’s Itaewon This newcomer to the Itaewon scene offers sports fans eight flat screens throughout the bar along with the meanest plate of pork ribs to be found in Seoul. samryans.com 02-749-7933 Scrooge Pub/Dicken’s Lounge Itaewon A great little sports bar with pool, darts, delicious food and plenty of English-speaking staff. 02-797-8201

Hyundai Department Store

LINE Line 22 Samseong Stn.

Tokyo Jazz Authentic jazz music performed Mon-Sat, 9:30 pm - 12:30 am by European, American, and Korean musicians. Two minute’s walking distance from the COEX and Grand InterContinental Hotels. 153-44 Samsung-dong. 02-3453-4472

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SEOUL DIRECTORY Rock Freebird Hongdae cafe.navercom/ clubfreebird 02-335-4576 Jammers Hongdae jammers.co.kr

02- 325-3914

Just Blues Apgujeong justblues.co.kr

02-542-4788

SoundHolic Hongdae cafe.daum.net/ SoundHolic 02-3142-4233 Clubs

Hamilton Hotel Fire Station

n Statio

SEOUL

KB Bank

Police Station

[ Itaewon Station Exit 3 ] Tel: 793.2333

America Latina Itaewon opens at 8 pm Wednesdays to Sundays and offers Salsa classes. Check Facebook group: Club America Latina in Seoul. Answer Cheongdam-dong After a shortlived stint as gala restaurant Le Nuit Blanche, the club we all know and love is back. clubanswer.co.kr 02-514-4311 Ben @Blue Spirit Hongdae Great Japanese curry during the day and soju cocktails at night. Hit up the weekend parties. 360-18 SeokyoDong, Mapo-Gu. 02-3142-5301 Eden Gangnam Mega club with top DJs, sizzling sound, and model nights. 역삼동 602 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnamgu, Ritz Carlton Hotel. eden-club.co.kr 010-9913-3919 Function Itaewon The boutique club hidden in the fancy Macaroni Market restaurant. Tue, Wed, Thu 6 pm – 2:30 am; Fri and Sat 6 pm-3:30 am. 737-50 Hannnam1-dong Yongsan-gu. 02-749-9181 Heaven Gangnam The newest member of Seoul’s club scene combines top-notch technology with divine DJs spinning house and electro beats. W30,000 general admission, W40,000 for after club hours. Near Yeoksam St. clubheaven.co.kr 02-3444-4997

GOOD FOOD

GOOD TIMES LO C AT I O N S

Itaewon Jukjeon Busan Jeju

Gecko’s Terrace, Bonji Bistro, Gecko’s Garden Gecko’s Uyeong Plaza Tel 031 262 9974 Haeundae Beach Pale de CZ Tel 051 747 3069 Island Gecko’s Jungmun Tel 064 739 0845

56 | 10 Magazine April 2011

Q-vo Hongdae A popular hip hop club with strobes pulsing above the dance floor. Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun 8 pm – 4 am and Wed, Fri, Sat 8 pm – 6:30 am. W10,000 - W15,000. 121-210 Ohoo B/ D 367-1 Seogyo Dong. clubqvo.co.kr 02-3143-7573 Saab Hongdae Fashion-conscious twenty-somethings congregate here for a wide variety of music styles. Weekdays 6 pm – 4 am, weekends 6 pm – 6 am. W10,000 cover on weekends. 02-324-6929

Club

Itaewo

Pulse Itaewon This chilled-out club pumps out danceable tunes in all genres of electronic music until sunrise. Everyday 8 pm – 7 am. Fri W10,000, Sat W15,000. 02-792-6662

J.J. Mahoney’s The drinks don’t come cheap, but this nightclub at the Grand Hyatt is a favorite with the over-30s crowd. 747-7 Hannam 2-dong. seoul.grand.hyatt.com 02-797-1234 Koobar @Blue Spirit Apgujeong Hip music for a classy crowd. 664-11 Shinsadong, Gangnam-gu. 02-518-5115 M2 Hongdae This long-running club is party central for college students. Sun – Thu 8 pm – 4 am, Fri and Sat 7:30 pm – 6 am. Cover starts at W10,000. 367-11 Seogyo-dong Mapo-gu. ohoo.net/m2 02-3143-7573 Mansion Hongdae This new club pumps out sizzling house, electro, and nu-disco grooves, bringing in quality acts like Roni Size and Goldie. mansionseoul@gmail. com 02-3143-4037 Mass Gangnam The dance club for the “masses.” 9 pm – 6 am. Sun – Thu W15,000, Fri and Sat W20,000. clubmass.net 02-599-3165 NB Hongdae, Gangnam Supposedly the first hip-hop club in Korea, it has one bar, two stages, and a packed crowd. clubnb.com 02-326-1716

Volume Itaewon A true “music lovers” club, Volume is found in the basement of Crown Hotel. Fri and Sat 9 pm - 6 am. W15,000 - W30,000. Crown Hotel B1 clubvolume.com 1544-2635 Woo Bar Check out the split-level lobby lounge for cool music and exclusive parties. No cover charge. 21 Gwangjang-dong wseoul.com 02-465-2222 Massage

Healing Hands Massage Studio healinghands.co.kr 070-7504-8090 Beauty

Marie&M Gangnam The right haircut makes all the difference! All staff at this salon are qualified by Vidal Sassoon. 02-512-3798 Tony&Guy Whether it’s a cut, highlight, low light, or hair spa that you want, you’re guaranteed to get professional service from the English-speaking stylists at Toni & Guy. Near Hongik University. 02-338-2773 Florists

Oxana Garden oxanagarden.com

02-798-6787

Community

Brazilians in Seoul Also known as Brasileiros em Seul, this group meets up on the 3rd Tuesday of each month. alocoreia@gmail.com 010-9631-2133 Gangnam Hills Toastmasters Club Helping you develop oral communication and leadership skills. koreatraining@ yahoo.com 010-8779-1969 Republicans Abroad Monthly meetings, events, and lectures for supporters of the USA Republican Party. kmohay@ hotmail.com 010-8688-9810

The Weekly 10 10 Magazine’s Free Weekly Events Email Be the first to know about the hottest events happening all over the country each week. Sign up at www.10mag.com/weekly10

Art Ongoing

KBO Baseball All games held at Daejeon Stadium, home of the Hanwha Eagles. 5th – 7th vs KIA Tigers 6:30 pm 8th vs LG Twins 6:30 pm 9th – 10th vs LG Twins 5 pm 19th – 21st vs Lotte Gians 6:30 pm 22nd vs Doosan Bears 6:30 pm 23rd – 24th vs Doosan Bears 5 pm April 17th Chungyang Chilgab Moutain Trail Running 15 km. 8:30 am. W20,000. Register by April 14th. korcmc.org 02-424-2195

The Annunciation, Beato Fra Angelico, 1430s, the Museum of San Marco Fresco Murals With work by artists from Michelangelo to Da Vinci, this exhibit allows you to experience the rich history and culture of the Renaissance and earlier eras. Asia Museum in Daejeon. 10 am – 6 pm, Sun 1 – 6 pm. Closed Mon. W6,000 - W12,000. asiamuseum.asia 042-863-0055

Theater & Dance April 2nd Traditional Performances Traditional Korean outdoor performances move to the stage, showcasing unusual instruments and authentic dances. Jeongshimwha International Cultural Center at Chungnam University in Daejeon. 120 min. W22,000 - W55,000. chungnam.ac.kr 042-821-8085 April 7th - 9th Once Upon a Stubborn Child: Gugak Musical You will be surprised to see how entertaining a traditional play can be as you go on a fun and educational journey with stubborn Gangmal, the main character. Cheongju Arts Center. Thu - Fri 10:10 & 11:20 pm. Sat 11 am & 2 pm. W15,000. cjac.or.kr 043-200-4421 April 8th - 9th Peter Pan: Family Musical The timeless story of the boy who refuses to grow up. Join him in Neverland, where all dreams come true. Chungcheongnam-do Students Educational & Cultural Center, Fri 7:30 pm. Sat 1 pm, 3 pm, 5 pm. 70 min. W25,000 W30,000. cnsh.or.kr 080-080-0828

Concerts April 2nd 7080 Spring Concert Korean rock stars from 1970s and 80s are back to make your evening shine bright. Bongseo Hall at Cheonan City Hall. 7:30 pm. W40,000 - W60,000. asiamunwha. com 1644-9289. Sign up now.

Family & Community April 8th Tug-of-War in Gijisi The tug-of-war was a traditional event that was supposed to ensure a good harvest. Playing tug-of-war brings people in villages together, which is vital to ensuring a rich year. Chungnam Gijisiri. gijisi.org 041-355-8118

Sport & Fitness April 10th K-League Football: Daejeon vs Jeju 3 pm. Daejeon World Cup Stadium.

CHUNGCHEONG PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance Daejeon International Community Center dicc.or.kr 042-223-0789 Daejeon jungwonh@hotmail.com

Classes Yegok Natural Dye Workshop Okcheon-gun Dye clothing or make natural soap. yegok.co.kr 043-733-0978

Entertainment O-World Amusement Park Daejeon oworld.kr 042-580-4820 Kumdori Land Daejeon kumdori.co.kr 042-862-4000

Museums Alcohol Museum: Liquorium Chungju liquorium.com 043-855-7333 Gonam Shell Mound Museum Taean-gun Anmyeon Island museum.taean.go.kr 041-670-2337 Jincheon Bell Museum Jincheon-gun jincheonbell.net 043-539-3850 Korea Traditional Architecture Museum Yesan-gun English site: ktam.or.kr 041-337-5877

Hotels/Accommodations New Korea Hotel Asan 041-542-8151 Onyang Hot Spring Hotel Asan 041-545-2141 Cheonan Central Hotel Cheonan 041-564-9100 Yuseong Hotel Daejeon 042-822-9591 The Sky Blue Bird Seosan 011-382-1862 Golden Wave Taean 041-675-2008

Medical Services Konyang International Health Care Center Daejeon kihcc.kyuh.co.kr 042-600-9978 Sun Hospital Daejeon 042-220-8000

Restaurants/Supermarkets Gasan Korean, Cheonan 041-561-9500 Spain House Spanish, Cheonan 041-571-7474 Olive Farms Buffet, Cheongju 043-215-3311

Bars/Lounges/Pubs Rolling Stones Cheonan 041-562-9824 MJ Cheongju “MJ Bar” on Facebook. 043-273-8366 Road King Cheongju 010-8301-5936 Blue Moon Cheongwon 043-285-0399 Brickhouse Sports Bar & Grill Daejeon “The Daejeon Brickhouse” on Facebook, 010-9867-0921 J-Rock Daejeon 010-4564-7721 Santa Claus Daejeon “Santa Claus 2008” on Facebook, 042-825-5500 The Shisha House Daejeon “Welcome to the Shisha House” on Facebook. 042-825-4157 Sponge Daejeon 042-471-3373

edi tor’ s pick

The Disappearing Dolphin Act Korea’s newest aquarium provides plenty of oceanic discoveries, but no pink dolphin.

The hype from the internet alone was enough for me and my friends to make the trip to Daejeon’s newly opened Aquaworld. It’s the largest aquarium in Korea (a whopping eight times larger than the aquarium in the 63 Building in Seoul) and the world’s first “cave-type aquarium.” Add to that the promise of seeing a rare pink Amazonian dolphin named Tonina and we were all but twitching with excitement when the taxi dropped us off at the bottom of Mt. Bomunsan in southern Daejeon. The façade of Aquaworld is impressive and decorated with thousands of Christmas lights, which, I’m sure, are breathtaking in the evenings. When you enter the aquarium there is a definite sense of entering a cave, although the walkways are wide enough to ward off most claustrophobia. The aquarium paths funnel visitors through a series of eight themed areas including the Amazon Hall, Asian Hall, African Hall, and Sea Hall. As with most aquariums, Aquaworld’s sections build up to a grand display housing the largest of the tanks and the most impressive fish. After about an hour and a half we’d thoroughly explored every tank in every room. As we stood in the last hallway, we were left with mixed feelings. The most prevalent of these was the nagging question: “did anyone see Tonina?” We had somehow missed what should have been most conspicuous – a pink dolphin. We backtracked and looked at the maps, but despite our best efforts we could not find Tonina. Closer examination of the website later revealed that the elusive pink dolphin is not currently on display due to events in her home of Venezuela. But despite the disappointment over the missing dolphin, we decided that there were more than enough fish in this sea. djaqua.co.kr/eng 042-252-4300 Words by Lucy Beaucla ir a n d shots by Pau l Ch arles

10 Magazine April 2011 | 57

CHUNGCHEONG

Through October 16th “Cool Breeze, Bright Moon”: Treasures of Korea Priceless relics ranging in origin from the stone age to the Joseon Dynasty. Cheongju National Museum. Tue - Fri 9 am - 6 pm. Weekends 9 am - 7 pm. Closed Mondays. Free. cjmuseum.org 043-229-6300

Daejeon Running Club Marathon 10 km. 10 am. W10,000. Register by April 2nd. cafe.daum.net/seogurun 042-535-9955

GYEONGGI CALENDAR edi tor’ s p ick

A. Dvorak’s, Symphony in F major op. 96 American. Bucheon Civic Center. 7:30 pm. W10,000. bcf.or.kr 032-625-8330 April 7th Happy 11 AM Concert: Classics with Books Gunpo Culture & Art Center. 11 am. W15,000. gunpoart.net 031-390-3501 April 8th – 9th C’est Si Bon Concert Anyang Arts Center. 7:30 pm. W88,000 – W110,000. ayac.or.kr 031-687-0500 April 9th – 10th My Way: The Shin Seung-Hoon Show This month, the emperor of ballads is taking his heartstrings-pulling show to Seongnam. Held at the opera house at the Seongnam Arts Center. Sat 7 pm, Sun 5 pm. W66,000 – W110,000. snart.or.kr 1588-4430

Seoul Motor Show 2011 April 1st – 10th

Conference

Nearly each year it has been held, the Seoul Motor Show has drawn in more than 950,000 guests and participants. With 23 foreign car manufacturers on display this year, the Seoul Motor Show 2011 is expected to draw nearly 1,000,000 automotive aficionados to the 59,176 m 2 arena at KINTEX (Korea International Exhibition Center). During the show, car dealers, bike riders, motor collectors and lovers of anything with an engine will gather to celebrate this year’s theme: “Evolution: Green Revolution on Wheels.” Events on site include seminars, selfmade car contests, automobile design contests, “best car of the show” awards, eco-friendly vehicle riding, and a car lottery. Open to the public 4/2 from 12 - 7 pm and then every day 10 am - 7 pm. Plot your GPS for KINTEX in Ilsan. motorshow.or.kr 02-3660-1888

Art Ongoing The Year of the Rabbit Featuring traditional Korean artifacts with rabbits, the exhibition also shows new rabbit characters in Korean society, including Mashimaro, a popular Korean animated character created by Kim Jae-in. Gyeonggi Provincial Museum. 10 am - 6 pm. Free. musenet.or.kr 031-288-5300

Theater & Dance Ongoing Saturday Performance at Hwaseong Head down to Hwaseong Castle in Suwon for court dancing, folk music, tight-rope walking, and more. Every Saturday at 2 pm. Free. hs.suwon.ne.kr 031-251-4435 April 1st – 3rd The Magic Flute: Classic & Opera Shadow Play Composed by Mozart, this opera has been beloved since its premiere. In Korean. Anyang Arts Center. Sat 10 & 11:30 am (group only) 4 pm, Sun 11 am, 2 & 4 pm, Sun 2 & 4 pm. W15,000. ayac.or.kr 02-959-2830 April 2nd – 3rd Audition: The Musical Winner of the 13th Korea Musical Awards, Audition blurs the boundary between musical and concert. In Korean. Seongnam Arts Center. Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 3 pm. W20,000 – W30,000. snart.or.kr 031-783-8000 April 6th – July 27th Piggy Kkomkkomi: Children’s Gukak Play This imaginative retelling of the three little pigs story introduces children

58 | 10 Magazine April 2011

to tunes based on gugak, or traditional Korean music. Gyeonggi Arts Center. Every Wed 11 am. W10,000. ggad.or.kr 031-289-6424 April 9th – 10th Aladdin: Children’s Musical Banweol Art Hall in Pocheon. 11 am, 2 pm & 4 pm. W25,000. bwart.net 02-555-0822 April 12th Jong-ho Park’s Opera Glass Watch Lucia di Lammermoor, the tragic opera written by Gaetano Donizetti, with the guide of commentator Mr. Park (in Korean). Seongnam Arts Center. 2 pm. W20,000 – W40,000. snart.or.kr 031-783-8000 April 16 – July 31st Anseong Namsadang Baudeogi Tightrope walking and other traditional performances at the outdoor stage at Namsadang Learning Center in Anseong. 2 & 3:30 & 6 pm. Free. namsadangnori. org 031-679-2518 (English available)

Concerts

April 21st Salta Cello As Korea’s favorite German jazz band, Salta Cello got creative with combining Korean traditional songs and their jazz. Uijeongbu Arts Center. 8 pm. W30,000 – W50,000. uac.or.kr 031-828-5841 April 22nd Jang Sa-ik Soripan: Yuk It’s easy to forget priorities in this fast-paced world. Jang Sa-ik advises us through his songs how important it is to take a break once in a while to recharge. Gwacheon Civic Center. 8 pm. W40,000 – W80,000. gccs.or.kr 02-509-7700 April 23rd Pianist Paul Lewis Recital This English classical pianist gained his reputation from his deep thinking about music and precise articulation of it in his performances. Concert Hall at Sungnam Arts Center. 5 pm. W30,000 – W100,000. snart.co.kr 031-783-8000 Seung-Cheol Lee Concert: “Orchest-Rock” Winning Best Male Singer at the Korean Music Awards, Seung-cheol Lee has succeeded both as member of rock group Boohwal and in his solo career. This concert marks the 25th anniversary of his debut. Gyeonggi Arts Center. 4 and 8 pm. W44,000 – W110,000. ggac.or.kr 1644-0488

Family & Community April 24th – May 16th 24th Icheon Ceramic Festival Take a joyful ceramic trip to Icheon. Seolbong Park & Doye (Pottery) Village. Weekdays 10 am, Weekends 9 am. Check out website for fees and activities. ceramic. or.kr 031-644-2944 April 29th – May 15th Goyang Korea Flower Show Fill up your lungs with the crisp spring air—and the beautiful scent of thousands of flowers. Goyang Flower Exhibition Hall in Ilsan Lake Park. Weekdays 9:00 am – 7 pm, weekends & holidays 8:30 am – 7:30 pm (open to the public starting on the 30th). W5,000 – W6,000, students W3,000 – W4,000. flower.or.kr 031-908-7750

Education & Conferences Ongoing American Museum of Natural History: Climate Change Festival Not a celebration of climate change but rather an educational program designed to raise awareness of the phenomenon. The Green Zone at Seoul Land in Gwacheon near Seoul Grand Park Stn. (line 4). 9:30 am – 9:00 pm. seoulland.co.kr 02-509-6000 April 19th – 21st Int’l Electronic Circuits Show KINTEX near Daewha Stn. (line 3, ex. 3) in Ilsan. 10 am – 5 pm. W5,000. kpcashow.com 02-780-4771

Sport & Fitness April 10th Adidas & MBC Hangang Marathon 5 km, half, and full. 9 am. W30,000 – W40,000. Register now! mbc-marathon. co.kr 02-338-6564 April 24th 2011 Nationwide Marathon for the Disabled 5 km, 10km, half, full. 10 am. W15,000 – W35,000. Register by April 1st. run1080.com 054-535-1080

2011 Saturday Gukak Outing Here is a chance to take an easy path to learn more about Gukak. Ensemble Theater at Sungnam Arts Center. 3 pm. W3,000. snart.co.kr 031-729-4810

May 10th Founding of the Republic of Korea Marathon 5 km, 10 km, half, full. 9 am. W10,000 – W25,000. Register by April 25th. run1080.com 054-535-1080

April 28th 2011 Aram Nuri Matinée Concert 2 Part of the running series, this month Aram Nuri is presenting Spring in Prague featuring Smetana’s String Quartet and Dvorak’s Piano Trio and String Quartet. Goyang Aram Nuri Arts Center. 11 am. W15,000. artgy.or.kr 1577-7766

May 29th Yangpyeong Ju-bong Lee & Kyungin Newspaper Marathon 4.2 km, 10 km, half. 8:30 am. W10,000 – W30,000. Register by April 30th. hangangmarathon.net 031-231-5511

Midnight Jazz Concert: In-Kwan Lee Project Jazz Band You must be 19 or above to view this particular concert. Arang Hall at Hanam Arts Center. 9 pm. W20,000. hnart.or.kr 031-790-7979

April 5th Cellist Sung-Won Yang: Sonata for Cello & Piano Featuring Richard Strauss’s Sonata for Cello and Piano in F Major Op. 6 and Cesar Franck’s Sonata in A maj. Uijeongbu Arts Center. 11 am. W10,000. uac.or.kr 031-828-5841

April 30th Maestro Nan-Sae Geum & Eurasian Phil Orchestra Concert As a conductor, Maestro Geum has played a huge role in popularizing classical music in Korea. Banseok Art Hall at Dongtan Multi-Complex. 5 pm. W30,000 – W40,000. hdmc.or.kr 031-8015-8180

April 6th Bucheon Philharmonic Orchestra: 156th Concert Mozart’s Opera Overture La clemenza di Tito KV. 621, Piano Concerto No. 24 in C minor KV. 491, Yoon Kuk Lee’s Frammento lugubre for Gustav (the world premiere for the 100th anniversary of Mahler’s death), and

April 30th – May 1st Beautiful Mint Life 2011 For this ecofriendly music festival, Korean Indie bands are lined-up for the weekend to celebrate vibrant spring. Goyang Aram Nuri Norumok Outdoor Theatre. 12 pm. 1 day W44,000, 2 days W77,000. mintpaper.com 1544-6399

KBO Baseball All games held at Munhak Stadium, home of the SK Wyverns. 2nd – 3rd vs Nexen Heroes 2 pm 8th vs Samsung Lions 6:30 pm 9th – 10th vs Samsung Lions 5 pm 12th – 14th vs Hanwha Eagles 6:30 pm 19th – 21th vs LG Twins 6:30 pm 29th vs Doosan Bears 6:30 pm 30th vs Doosan Bears 5 pm 2011 K-League Football March 2nd Suwon vs Ulsan at Suwon World Cup Stadium, 3 pm March 3rd Sungnam vs Busan at Sungnam Stadium, 5 pm March 6th Sungnam vs Gyeongnam at Sungnam Stadium, 8 pm Incheon vs Daegu at Incheon World Cup Stadium, 7 pm March 15th Suwon vs Gangwon at Suwon World Cup Stadium, 7:30 pm March 24th Suwon vs Gyeongnam at Suwon World Cup Stadium, 7:30

Discover y

Riding Into the Incheon Sunset GYEONGGI

You are gazing at the translucent blue seas nearby. Immaculately groomed horses are cantering through a verdant field, their coats glowing richly where the sunshine touches them, and the earthy scent of chaff and oats is in the air. You might have the odd sensation of having surreally stepped out of Korea, when in fact you are merely enjoying a meal at the second floor restaurant of the Beradel Equestrian Club on Daebu Island. With accommodation on site and the horses stabled in an enormous pen where they may be viewed at your leisure, this is a simply wonderful place to escape. For more on Daebu Island, see p. 22. beradel.co.kr 032-882-2255 Words by M alcolm W r est

gyeongGI province Religious Services

Grace & Truth Church Anyang, Ansan, and Suwon Sunday 9:30 am, 11 am, 1 pm, grace-truth.org 031-443-3731 Dongsan Church Ansan Sunday 11:30 am, 010-2910-7809 Museums

Central America Culture Center Goyang. latina.or.kr 031-962-7171 Elvis Presley Memorial Hall Paju paju.go.kr 031-948-3358 Face Museum Gwangju (Gyeonggi Province). visagej.org 031-765-3522 Korean Lamp (Deung-Jan) Museum Yongin deungjan.or.kr/eng 031-334-0797 Waltz & Dr. Mahn Coffee Museum Namyangju wndcof.com 031-576-6051

café and wine bar. cafenicolia.com 032-329-0526 La Mia Cucina Ilsan The kitchen is always open at this English-friendly Italian pub. 7 pm – 4 am. 010-2327-8882 First Nepal Restaurant Incheon firstnepal.com 032-525-8771 Bars/Lounges/Pubs

The Big Chill Suwon Chill out in a big way with the friendly crowd while enjoying a game of pool, darts, or wii. Opens 8 pm on Wed – Sat and 4 pm on Sun. Facebook group, edwardjorgensen@gmail.com 010-3136-0153 The Park Bucheon Rhythm & Blues Bucheon 032-323-0161 West Island Ilsan 031-917-2225

Transportation

International Taxi (English speaking) 1644-2255 Jumbo Taxi Service (more expensive) 02-888-2000 Radio

US Armed Forces Network Dongducheon AM 1197/FM 88.3 Pyongtaek AM 1440/FM 88.3 Songtan AM 1359/FM 88.5 Uijeongbu AM 1161/FM 88.5 Restaurants

Cafe Nicolia Bucheon European-style

Jukjeon Gecko’s Yongin Bundang and Yongin expats should be ecstatic to know that the famous Gecko’s chain is expanding south. Near the Shinsegye department store. geckosterrace.com 031-262-9974 Clubs

Club Psycho Anyang bcmusicworld.com

010-7754-0409

10 Magazine April 2011 | 59

GANGWON CALENDAR discover y

Performances April 1st - 2nd PSY Little Theater Concert This artist has been entertaining his fans from the big stage, but now he’s getting down and dirty in a more intimate venue. Wonju Baekun Art Hall. Fri 8 pm. Sat 7 pm. 120 min. W77,000 - W88,000. jaarts.co.kr 1688-8616 April 9th Puppy Poop: The Musical Meet the bestselling children’s book now as a musical. Haeram Culture Hall. 11 am, 2 pm & 4 pm. 50 min. W15,000 - W20,000. kangnung.ac.kr 033-645-1253

Put Your Mind at Peace

GANGWON

Take in the sight of old books and calligraphy scrolls while chatting with the English-speaking staff at this Chuncheon bakery. Looking to “take a rest” after graciously giving up your seat to the absurd number of seniors on the new Chuncheon subway line? Then head to the Peace of Mind Bakery and Book Café for pastries, parchments, and more. Owners JH Kim and HS Lee originally sought out a remote location for Peace of Mind and found it in the back mountains of Hongcheon. Five years ago, though, they relocated to a quaint back road along the Seoksa River in Chuncheon. A former business man in Seoul and well-versed in English, Mr. Kim drops morsels of information about his wall-to-wall book and calligraphy collection (over 20,000 pieces) as he takes us to a table lined with bookcases full of 300 – 500-year-old traditional Korean bound books. He casually lingers, recommending dishes and does not hesitate to boast about his co-owner and wife, a master baker who studied and trained internationally, as we order some bread. As it is a bakery, a wide assortment of breads (W7,000) are a given. Set menus starting at W27,000 (steak, pasta, coffee or tea) are for those who desire a more gluttonous affair. Salads, sandwiches, and thin crust pizza range from W5,000 - W20,000, and you can finish it all off with a dessert (W8,000). One warning: if you haven’t had anything but gochujang for a while, you may be shocked by the amount of herbs in the food! Getting There

Take a taxi (W5,000) from the Chuncheon Bus Terminal and ask for “sah-meek seh-rah-mik ah-pah-tuh ee-chah” (삼익세라믹아파트2차). Walk towards the river and look for the blue building with a church on the second floor along the river. 114-12 Seoksa-dong, Chuncheon-si, Gangwon-do. 033-262-7864 Words a n d shots by J u di t h A n n C la nc y

April 22nd - 23th C’est Si Bon Concert Three of Koreans’ favorite old-time pop singers are sharing music and stories from the 80s, bringing back good (and possibly not-so-good but still funny) memories. Baeckryung Art Center in Chuncheon. Fri 8 pm, Sat 7:30 pm. 120 min. W77,000 - W110,000. kwbc.co.kr 033-250-7201 April 29th Jang Sa-ik Soripan “Yuk” In this Korean traditional folk play, a pansori singer tells a story using song. Chuncheon Culture & Art Center. 7:30 pm. 130 min. W20,000 W80,000. ccac.or.kr 02-396-0514 April 30th - May 1st My Friend Doraemon: Family Musical Children’s adorable friend Doraemon (a Japanese cartoon character) breaks through obstacles with the magic gadgets in his pocket. Chiak Art Center in Wonju. 60 min. 11 am, 2 pm & 4 pm. W25,000. cs.wonju.go.kr 033-741-2538

Foreigner Assistance Chuncheon Online Info tour.chuncheon.go.kr/eng

Libraries Chuncheon City Library iccl.or.kr 033-254-3887 Taebaek Municipal Library tbmlib.or.kr 033-550-2755

Amusement Parks Dreamland Amusement Park With a large zoo and plenty of rides, there’s lots of fun to be found at this park at Chiak Mountain near Wonju. W20,000 for adults, W18,000 for children. mydreamland.co.kr 033-732-5800

Museums Bangsan Porcelain Museum Yanggu-gun bangsanm.or.kr 033-480-2664 Chuncheon Makguksu Museum makguksumuseum.com 033-250-4134 Haslla Art World Gangneung haslla.kr 033-644-9411 Marisorigol Musical Instrument Museum Hongcheon-gun great.go.kr 033-430-2016 Sokbong Ceramic Museum Sokcho dogong.net 033-638-7711 Teddy Bear Farm Sokcho teddyfarm.net 033-636-3680 Wonju Hanji Museum Wonju wjhanji.co.kr 033-731-2323

Hotels/Accommodations

Family & Community April 1st Reenactment of the April 1st Independence Movement Relive the events that took place on April 1st, 1919 when freedom fighters fought back against the Japanese occupation. Hoengseongeup 3.1 Park and surrounding area. 11 am. Free. tour.hsg.go.kr 033-340-2224 April 22nd - 24th Haesalyi Gaedureup (Fresh Sprouts) Festival Haesalyi Information Village. gntour.go.kr 033-648-8123 April 29th - May 3th King Danjong Cultural Festival King Danjong is the only king who was not given a proper funeral among the 27 kings of Joseon Dynasty. After granting him a state funeral 550 years after his death, the city of Yeongwol turned the ceremony into a yearly ritual. Jangreung, Cheongryeongpo, Dong River waterfont. ywtour.com 1577-0545

Education & Conferences Ongoing Nong-ak (Farm Music) Lessons Every Saturday from 2- 4 pm you have the chance to try your hand at learning to play traditional Korean music with these free lessons offered at the Gangneung Nongak Classroom. Free. gnnongak.or.kr 033-642-4470

Hotel Inter-Burgo Wonju wonju.inter-burgo.com 033-766-8000 W Hotel Wonju w-hotel.co.kr 033-742-5454

Medical Services

April 17th Chuncheon Hoban Marathon 5 km, 10 km, half, full. 9 am. W10,000 - W25,000. Register by March 30th. run1080.com 033-258-1400

Gangwon National University Hospital Chuncheon knuh.or.kr/html/index.asp 033-258-2000 Gangnam Hospital Chuncheon ekangnam.co.kr 033-240-7000 Hyundai Animal Clinic Chuncheon dog7582.co.kr 033-256-7582 Ye Dental Clinic Chuncheon ccye.co.kr 033-262-2078

K-League Football April 3th Gangwon vs Daejeon April 23th Gangwon vs Incheon Both at Chuncheon Stadium, 3 pm.

Acozza Cafe Wonju Classy pizzas served in chic industrial décor. acozza.co.kr 033-766-7999

Sport & Fitness

60 | 10 Magazine April 2011

gangwon PROVINCE

Restaurants

korean desti nation

2 4

1 1 There’s always a line for the traditional Korean swing in Gwanghallu Garden. 2 The Gwanghallu Pavillion of today is the rebuilt version of 1639. 3 Cultural events are held within the Wolmae House (월매집) of Gwanghallu Garden. 4 The front gate to Changju Confucian Hall (창주 서원), not far from the Express Bus Terminal. 5 Namwon has curious restaurants, domiciles, and shops on almost every street.

W o rds a nd s h ots by M at t h e w C . C r aw f o r d

leven years into the new millennium and 60 after the start of the Korean War, the old Korea is becoming an elusive creature here in the South. For those seeking a brush with centuriesold traditions, folk villages and old markets are good places to start, but serious explorers will continue on to smaller cities such as Namwon. The main reason to visit Namwon for most is as a base from which to reach Jiri Mountain National Park. Namwon is the closest city to the park’s western end, and from almost anywhere in town the dense green mountain flanks can be seen rising seductively toward the central ridge. But using Namwon merely as a transfer point does the city an injustice. While it’s no Gyeongju (the capital of the Shilla Dynasty), Namwon is littered with historical sites: memorial shrines, fortress walls, temples, battlegrounds, and ruins. As quite a few

sites are beyond walking distance from the bus stations and somewhat remote train station, a private vehicle would be the best way to tour the area. Fortunately, the main draw, Gwanghallu Pavillion, is easy to reach. Gwanghallu Pavillion, initially built in 1419 by the prime minister Hui-jeong Hwang (황희정), may be the mother of all Korean pavilions. But the garden (entrance fee: W2,000) contains plent y of other attractions. Connoisseurs of traditional Korean gardens may be surprised to note that instead of sandy patches there are verdant sweeps of grass. Bamboo groves and huge old trees shade islands in ponds that are boiling with ferocious carp. Be sure to visit the shrine to Chunhyang (춘향사 당), the Juliet of Korean folk history. Much of the drama of her story was said to have unfolded in this very park. Having finished your tour of Gwanghallu Pavillion and perhaps after having gotten

Getting There

Travelers can reach Namwon easily by bus or by train. From Seoul, a journey from the Express Bus Terminal near the subway station of the same name to Namwon will take about 3 hr 40 min and cost W15,500. Trains cost twice as much while taking just as long. 10 Magazine April 2011 | 61

JEOLLA

Go Slow in Namwon

some big air on a traditional Korean swing, you may feel possessed by a craving for chueotang (추어탕), a stew featuring pureed loach. Namwon happens to be the chueotang capital of the universe, as the cartoonish loach statue at the approach to the city suggests. Before tr ying chueotang, you should know that chueo (aka mikkuraji, 미꾸라지) are small fish-like creatures that live in the watery mud of rice paddies. Perhaps owing to its rich flavor and thrilling combination of spices, chueotang is a favorite of some foreigners. The Namwon version of the dish is distinct, though, for containing a potent, heady spice named jenpi (젠피), whereas in cities further north, sancho (산초, Chinese pepper) is customarily used. There are several food streets just across from the park that specialize in chueotang (locals were hard-pressed to say which restaurant was the best), and a bowl will cost around W7,000. When all is said and done, whether you’re in Namwon for hiking, for its historical sites, or for its chueotang, perhaps what you’ll remember most are the quiet lanes, with their glimpses into a slower, unaffectedly traditional way of life.

Theater & Dance April 3rd Peter Pan: Family Musical Follow children’s forever-friend Peter Pan on an adventure to Neverland. Gwangju Culture and Art Center. 12, 2 & 4pm. W12,000. gjart.net 1688-7923 April 5th - 6th Little Red Riding Hood: Family Musical Also known as Little Red Cap, this famous fairy tale has been modified throughout its history and is subject to various modern adaptations, including a film released a few months ago. Gwangju Culture and Art Center, Tue 11 am, Wed 10:10 & 11:30 am. W15,000. gjart.net 02-2654-6854 April 7th The Adventures of Maya the Bee: The Musical Honeybee Maya is excited to explore the world for the first time and thereby encounters many different insect friends as well as threats which gives her valuable life lessons. Gwangju Culture and Art Center. 10:30 am. W10,000. gjart.net 1666-1318 April 8th - 10th The Three Musketeers: The Musical The novel written by the widely read French author Alexandre Dumas meets Bryan Guy Adams, the composer of All for Love. Gwangju Culture and Art Center. 160 min. Fri 8 pm, Sat 3 & 7:30 pm, Sun 3 pm. W50,000 - W120,000. gjart.net 062-370-7074 April 16th - 17th The Ballerina Who Loved the B-boy: The Musical This b-boy-meetsballerina story is a genre-bending mash-up of break dance and ballet. The Gwangju 5-18 Memorial Culture Center. 90 min. 3 & 6 pm. W44,000 - W60,000. 518center.gjcity.net 02-2266-3727

JEOLLA

Soyang’s Cherry Blossom Road The last few weeks have seen the bitter cold of winter finally easing and even a few rare glimpses of sunshine. Spring is on its way – and, in Korea, that means it’s almost cherry blossom season. Cherry blossoms, or beotkkot (벚꽃), are of course synonymous with Japan (where they’re called sakura), but South Korea offers equally impressive opportunities to view these beautiful flowers. The blossom season varies from place to place; in North Jeolla Province, the blossoms are expected to arrive around the fifth of April and be at their best over the following week. While cherry blossoms can be seen in many parts of Jeonju and the surrounding countryside, the best place to experience beotkkot season is undoubtedly the village of Soyang-myeon in Wanju County. Soyang is famed for its cherry trees which bloom in a giant arch spanning the road, creating a pink-and-white tunnel that stretches for almost two kilometers beside a shallow stream. It’s well-known locally as a great spot for taking 62 | 10 Magazine April 2011

April 22nd - 24th Gwanghwamun Sonata: The Musical A creation of the late Korean composer Young-hoon Lee, this grand musical has made itself one of Korea’s representative love stories. Gwangju Culture and Art Center. Fri 8 pm, Sat 3 & 7:30 pm, Sun 3 pm. W55,000 W110,000. gjart.net 1544-0412

Concerts April 2nd

a romantic walk beneath the gently drifting petals and has been used as a backdrop for a number of TV dramas and movies. The cherry blossom season brings plenty of tourists to the village. The weekends – especially at the peak of the blossom season – can get busy, so those looking for a quieter romantic experience or a chance to take some memorable photographs would be best advised to visit on a quieter weekday. Songgwang Temple nearby also has many beautiful cherry blossom trees in its grounds, making it well-worth a visit. Getting there

Soyang is about 10 km east of Jeonju. To get there from downtown, catch a green city bus from the stop outside Starbucks on Paldal-ro, heading towards Songgwangsa and Oseong-ri. The journey should take about 30 minutes, and will cost around W2,500. Words a n d shots by A n dy C lay

Boohwal Concert Boohwal is a classic Korean rock band that has been around for more than 25 years. Gwangju Culture and Art Center. 3 & 7 pm. W55,000 W88,000. gjart.net 062-430-9805

JEOLLA CALENDAR April 22nd - 23rd PSY Little Theater Concert If you want to go wild at a dynamic, exciting event, a PSY concert is the right place. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. Fri 7:30 pm, Sat 6:30 pm. W77,000 W88,000. sori21.co.kr 1588-0766 April 23rd - 24th Eun-gyeol Lee: The Illusion The first Korean to win a grand prize in a worldwide magic competition, he is one of the most popular Korean magicians as well as an entertainer. Mokpo Citizen’s Culture and Athletic Center. Sat 3:30 pm, Sun 2 & 6:30 pm. W40,000 W60,000. art.mokpo.go.kr 270-9215 April 24th Yeong-nam Jo Concert There are numerous ways to describe Yeong-nam Jo: beloved singer, wacky painter, black horn-rimmed glasses wearer, and chatterbox. Chonbuk National University Cultural Center in Jeonju. 2 & 6pm. W66,000 - W110,000. cnucc.chonbuk.ac.kr 1600-4534

Film April 28th - May 6th 12th Jeonju International Film Festival This time of the year, movie fans travel down to Jeonju to see the unique movie selection. Screenings held at the JIFF Theque, but check out the website for other movie theaters in Jeonju. jiff.or.kr 063-288-5433

Family & Community

April 8th - 30th 2011 Cheongsan Island Slow Walking Festival Take it easy and let yourself blend into the florescent landscape of Cheongsando. You’ll discover unique myths and stories embedded in each of the eleven different themed trails as you take a relaxing walk. Get there by taking a ferry from Wando to Cheongsando. slowcitywando.com 061-550-5431 April 15th - 24th Sinan Tulip Festival Here, you’ll learn that tulips have as many symbolic

April 30th - May 1st Yeongrang Literary Festival A tribute to Yoon-sik Kim (whose pen name is Moran, meaning peony), a representative 20th-century Korean poet. Yeongrang Birthplace in Gangjingun. gangjin.go.kr 061-434-0103

Education & Conferences Ongoing GIC Talks Take advantage of English lectures by professors, writers, and diplomats that promote communication and mutual understanding among Koreans and international residents. Topics include a wide range of subjects such as culture, history, politics, and art. Gwangju International Center. Sat 2:30 – 4 pm. Closed holidays. gic.or.kr 062-226-2733 Haenam Dinosaur Museum As the first such museum in the region, the Haenam Dinosaur Museum introduces visitors to the rich fossil legacy of Uhangri in Haenam-gun. 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, teens W2,000, children W1,000. uhangridinopia. haenam.go.kr 061-532-7225 Through May 22nd The Calligraphy of Jeonbuk This exhibition will look into the flow of the calligraphy of Jeonbuk. Your spirit will grow calm and your mind clear with this beautiful calligraphy. Jeonju National Museum. 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Monday. Free. jeonju.museum.go.kr 063-223-5651

Sport & Fitness KBO Baseball All games held at Gwangju Stadium, home of the KIA Tigers 2nd - 3rd vs Samsung Lions 2 pm 12th - 14th vs Nexen Heroes 6:30 pm 15th - 17th vs Hanwha Eagles 6:30 pm 26th - 28th vs SK Wyverns 6:30 pm 29th - 30th vs Lotte Giants 6:30 pm 2011 K-League April 2nd Gwangju vs Pohang 3 pm, Gwangju World Cup Stadium April 10th Jeongbuk vs Suwon 3 pm, Jeonju World Cup Stadium Jeonnam vs Seongnam 3 pm, Gwangyang Stadium April 16th Jeonbuk vs Gwangbuk 3 pm, Jeonju World Cup Stadium April 23th Jeonnam vs Sangju 5 pm, Gwangyang Stadium

Gunsan Saemangeum Festival April 8th – 24th

edi tor’ s pick

Family

With 24 major events happening almost simultaneously, Gunsan’s Saemangeum Festival may very well be the biggest festival to be held in Jeolla this year. The majority of the events will take place at Eun-pa Square and Wolmyung Stadium. It kicks off with the Gunsan Seafood Festival, where you can try fish and shellfish fresh off the boat. To please the ears of the audience, there are multiple concerts planned ranging from classic to pop music: the opening show and parade (4/8), on-going performances (4/10 – 4/13), the Municipal Symphony Orchestra in concert (4/14), a singing competition (4/16), and a gukak festival (4/18). There’s even a marathon to run in (sign up at smgmara.com) and a national tennis tournament to watch (4/15 – 4/17). More details on Gunsan’s Korean website. gunsan.go.kr 063-450-4554

Hampyeong Butterfly Festival April 29th – May 10th

Family

Just 20 minutes west of Gwangju lies a town called Hampyeong. Though small in size, its passion for environmentally-friendly farming techniques is ambitious and grand. To celebrate the town’s natural surroundings, the Hampyeong Butterfly Festival was started in 1999. Within a decade, the Ministry of Culture and Tourism named it one of the best festivals in the country. It continues to catch the interest of the whole nation as the area transforms into a veritable butterfly farm. The festival will include more than 30 programs, including an aquatic plant exhibit, butterfly catching, and natural coloring. Flutter on over to Hampyeong Expo Park Area in Jeolla Province. W1,000 - W7,000. inabi.or.kr 061-320-3224 Hotels/Accommodations

JEOLLA PROVINCE

Gwangju Youth Hostel 062-943-4378 Ramada Plaza Gwangju ramadagwangju.com 062-717-7000

Foreigner Assistance

Radio

Gwangju International Center gwangjuic.or.kr 062-226-1050 Gwangju Blog gwangjublog.com Inside Jeonju insidejeonju.com The Jeonju Hub thejeonjuhub.com

TBS eFM Gwangju FM 98.7 US Armed Forces Network Gunsan AM 1440/FM 88.5 Gwangju FM 88.5

Religious Services

First Nepal Restaurant firstnepal.com 062-225-8771 Tequilaz Gwangju’s first Mexican cantina serves up your south-of-the-border favorites with magical margaritas and, of course, killer tequilas. tequilaz.com Underground Grocers Gwangju This foreigner-run food shop has those hardto-find cheeses, taco shells and other delicacies you crave. 062-232-2626

Antioch Presbyterian Church Jeonju andiok.kr 063-274-3228 Iri Joongang Church Iksan 0 63-851-4311 Musang Temple Muan-gun 042-841-6084

Museums Gochang Dolmen Museum 9 am – 5 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, teens W2,000, children W1,000. gcdolmen.go.kr 063-560-2576 Iksan Jewel Museum 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. jewelmuseum.go.kr 063-859-4641 Jeonju Oriental Medicine Cultural Center 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. hanbangcenter.com 063-232-2500 Jeonju Traditional Alcohol Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Free. urisul.net 063-287-6305 Jeonju Traditional Culture Center jt.or.kr 063-280-7045 Mokpo Ceramic Livingware Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. doja.mokpo.go.kr 0 61-270-8480 Mokpo Natural Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. museum.mokpo.go.kr 061-274-3655

Restaurants/Supermarkets

Live Music Venues Bars/Lounges/Pubs Art & Travel Cafe Jeonju Open mic nights every Wednesday from 9 pm. Facebook group, 011-9437-0208 Deepin Jeonju Popular expat bar with Texas Holdem on Sundays. 019-9646-1028 Led Zeppelin Art Space Jeonju Hosts underground bands both expat and Korean. cafe.daum.net/k250073 018-607-6321 Radio Star Jeonju Under the 7-11 in Junghwasan-dong. 011-9444-9609 Speakeasy Gwangju The fun never stops at this fantastic bar owned and operated by honest Irishman Derrek Hannon. 010-4713-3825 San Antonio Latin Bistro Suncheon Suncheon surprises with this Latinthemed restaurant and bar. Facebook group, pyroz@hotmail.com 061-724-2234

10 Magazine April 2011 | 63

JEOLLA

Through April 3rd Gwangju Spring Flower Expo 2011 To encourage more suburban green space, Gwangju is holding a Spring Flower Expo. Approximately 20 themed gardens are on display with a variety of activities and performances. This is a great chance to see some beautiful spring flowers. Kim Daejung Convention Center in Gwangju. 10 am - 6 pm. W1,800 W5,000. flowershow.kr 062-611-2124

meanings as they have colors. Daegwang Beach. shinantulip.co.kr 061-240-8880

GYEONGSANG CALENDAR Art Through May 15th The History of Vietnam and the Nguyen Dynasty Gyeongju National Museum. Closed Mon. Weekdays 9 am - 6 pm, Sat 9 am - 9 pm, Holidays 9 am - 7 pm. gyeongju.museum.go.kr 054-740-7518

Theater & Dance

the best places in the country to catch the delicate blossoms. The events are dedicated to that illustrious admiral, Yi Sun-shin! Held in Jinhae, just west of Busan. gunhang.changwon.go.kr 055-225-2341 April 15th - 19th Cheongdo Bullfighting Festival Even before Spain, Korea has had a long-standing tradition with bullfighting - but the difference is the bulls aren’t fighting a matador, but each other! (Also, the bulls aren’t killed.) Don’t miss the annual festival filled with competitions, special events and a rodeo. Held in Cheongdo-gun, south of Daegu. Yes, the website address is actually in Korean. 청도소싸움.kr 054-370-2371 April 22nd - 24th Busan Gwangalli Eobang Festival Held next to the stunning sight of Gwangalli Bridge, this festival is based on the traditional rituals of fishermen heading out to sea. Suyeong-gu in Busan. festival-eobang.suyeong.go.kr 051-610-4061

Il Sole Is Coming Up

GYEONGSANG

Busan’s newest Italian restaurant shines on Dalmaji Hill. Foodies in Busan: here comes the sun. Il Sole on Dalmaji Hill is like a ray of sunshine in the city’s Italian scene. The stylish new restaurant boasts a view unmatched by any other in the city. And the view is topped only by what’s on your plate and in your glass. Restaurateur Rodolfo Patella brings years of experience to Busan after serving Italian cuisine and culture from his first restaurant in Seoul, Antonio’s. His new restaurant is upscale, but unpretentious. Guests step off the elevator into an Italian oasis with an open kitchen bustling to their right and a well-stocked bar serving spirits on the left. High ceilings, hardwood floors, and minimalist decor make up a dining room that sometimes feels more like a family gathering than an eating establishment. The menu is that of a typical Italian restaurant, but what’s served sets il Sole apart. Authentic recipes are crafted with the freshest ingredients. Antonio’s master chef, Sebastiano Giangregorio, lends his decades of experience in the kitchen to Il Sole. The tender T-bone steaks, perfect pastas, and arguably the most delicious pizza in Busan will fill your belly without busting your budget. Rodolfo wants everyone in Busan to enjoy his culinary tribute to the city’s beauty, which reminds him of Sorrento, Italy. Events co-sponsored with Busan’s Italian Wine Club and Italian Afternoons, which feature a buffet lunch and two glasses of wine for W20,000, aim to attract a diversity of diners. Don’t leave without looking out the window along the back wall for stunning views of Haeundae Beach and Gwangan’s Diamond Bridge. And as the weather improves, you may soon see the opening of Il Sole’s rooftop patio, one of Busan’s best lookouts by day or night. Il Sole is open Tuesday to Sunday with food served nonstop from 12 noon - 10 pm. Even after the last kitchen call, you can continue to enjoy coffee, wine, and conversation until midnight. Getting There

From Jungdong Stn. (line 2), walk toward Haeundae Beach. Take a left when you reach the McDonalds and follow the street that runs close to the water. It’s a short walk up Dalmaji Hill from there, on the left. Words by M i k e Lu edk e 051-747-4253 64 | 10 Magazine April 2011

Jump In its second decade, this popular martial arts comic show shows no signs of slowing. IBK Jump Theater in the basement of the Haeundae Grand Hotel. Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun and holidays 3pm, Closed Mon. W40,000 W50,000. hijump.co.kr 051-744-4885 Through April 17th Marionette: B-Boy Musical A touching story of love and separation, communicated through the evocative genre of break dance. Harmonia Art Hall in Daegu. Wed/Thu/Fri 7:45 pm, Sat 4 pm, 7 pm. Sun 3 pm, 6 pm. W35,000 - W40,000. ticket.interpark.com 053-254-7241 April 14th - 17th Nunsensation: The Musical The nunsense continues! In Korean. Daegu Opera House. Thurs 7:30 pm, Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 2 & 6 pm. W40,000 - W80,000. daeguoperahouse.org 1599-1980 April 23rd - 24th A Fairy Tale Journey with Pororo The lovable, huggable penguin from the Korean animation. Geoje Culture and Art Center. 11 am, 2 & 4 pm. W25,000. geojeart.or.kr 070-8654-0377 April 29th - 30th Tosca: The Opera Puccini’s masterpiece involves the usual melodramatic elements of lust, deception, and betrayal. Daegu Opera House. Fri 7:30 pm, Sat 4 pm. W10,000 - W50,000. daeguoperahouse.org 053-666-6000 April 29th - May 1st Gwangwhamun Sonata: The Musical Keimyung Art Center in Daegu. Fri 7:30 pm, Sat 3 & 7:30 pm, Sun 3 pm. kmuartcenter.kr 053-580-6600

Concerts April 6th Original Korean Opera Concert 1 Daegu Opera House. 7:30 pm. W10,000 - W30,000. daeguoperahouse.org 053-666-6000 April 9th Musical Gala Concert Daegu Opera House. 7 pm. W10,000 - W70,000. daeguoperahouse.org 053-426-8001

Family & Community April 1st - 10th The 49th Gunhangje Not just a cherry blossom festival, though this is one of

April 30th - May 8th Mungyeong Traditional Tea Bowl Festival Held in Mungyeong, due east of Daejeon. sabal21.com 054-550-6395

Education & Conferences April 6th - 8th International Green Energy Expo Korea 2011 EXCO in Daegu. www. energyexpo.co.kr 053-601-5375 April 15th - 18th The 9th Tour Expo Daegu Gyeongbuk EXCO in Daegu. tourexpodaegu.co.kr

Sports & Fitness April 23th 2011 Citizens’ Life Fitness Half Marathon 10km, half, and health course, to depart at 8:30 am from the Samnak Athletic Park in Busan. W15,000 - W25,000. Register by March 31st. bsrun.co.kr 051-244-3113 2011 K-League Football April 2nd Daegu vs Jeonnam at Daegu World Cup Stadium, 5 pm April 6th Ulsan vs Sangju at Ulsan Munsu Football Stadium, 7 pm Busan vs Gwangju at Busan Asiad Main Stadium, 7 pm April 9th Daegu vs Gyeongnam at Daegu World Cup Stadium, 5 pm Pohang vs Incheon at Pohang Steelyard, 3 pm April 10th Ulsan vs Gangwon at Ulsan Munsu Football Stadium, 3 pm Busan vs Seoul at Busan Asiad Main Stadium, 3 pm April 16th Busan vs Daegu at Busan Asiad Main Stadium, 3 pm 2011 Baseball All Busan games held at Sajik Stadium, home of the Lotte Giants. 2nd - 3rd vs Hanwha Eagles 2 pm 12th - 14th vs Doosan Bears 6:30 pm 22nd vs SK Wyverns 6:30 pm 23rd - 24th vs SK Wyverns 5 pm 26th - 28th vs LG Twins 6:30 All Daegu games held at Daegu Field, home of the Samsung Lions. 5th - 7th vs Lotte Giants 6:30 pm 15th vs Doosan Bears 6:30 pm 16th -17th vs Doosan Bears 5 pm 19th - 21st vs KIA Tigers 6:30 pm 29th vs Hanwha Eagles 6:30 pm 30th vs Hanwha Eagles 5 pm

GYEONGSANG DIRECTORY

Gyeongsang Foreigner Assistance Busan Foundation for Int’l Activities bfia.or.kr 051-898-3740, 051-865-0133 Geoje Foreign Resident Association gfra.net 055-687-9332 Ulsan Global Center 052-229-2810 Ulsan Online ulsanonline.com

Education Ayurveda Yoga Academy Certification course for would-be yoga teachers in Daegu. Sat 10 am – 7 pm. Call Yatren at 011-9547-5181 Yoga Classes Each 1st and 3rd Sunday from 12:30 – 1:30 pm. Buy the Book Cafe in Daegu. megan.deutsch@gmail. com 010-7794-1218

Open weekends. buythebookcafe@ yahoo.com Café Francesco Italian Italian cuisine and good coffee. Near Rodeo Street. 053-252-9625 Dijon French Up-market French and Mediterranean cuisine. 053-422-2426 Hami Mami’s American One of Daegu’s best brunches. 50m from the US base. 8 am – 10 pm. 053-475-5242

drinks from the Seoul location, but right on Haeundae Beach. 051-746-7913 Daegu Ping Bar Great drinks, a pool table, and music upon request. Samdeok Catholic Church. 7 pm - 5 am. withhyk@hanmail.net 053-422-7708 Jinju Soundgarden Behind Gyeongsang National University. soundgarden. cyworld.com, zakkie@hanmail.net 055-753-2248, 010-6478-2248 (owner)

Religious Services Baekangro Church Busan 051-898-3740 Catholic Center Busan bccenter.or.kr 051-441-6403

Hongbeopsa Temple 051-508-3470 Busan busanbuddhism.com/hannarae Hosanna Church Busan hosanna21.com 051-209-0191 Podowon Church Busan 051-333-3736 Shipyungro Church Busan spr.or.kr 051-220-0200 Sooyeongno Church Busan 051-740-4500 Pusan University of Foreign Studies Busan 051-640-3445 Islamic Mosque Busan busanislam.or.kr 051-518-9991 Okpo Joonang Presbyterian Geoje Island 010-2586-7520, 010-3873-1652 Sumgim Presbyterian Church Geoje Island sumgim.org 017-577-3096

Hotels/Accommodations 4 – 5 Star Hotels Busan Lotte Hotel 051-810-1000 Novotel Ambassador 051-743-1234 Seacloud 051-933-1000 Daegu Novotel Ambassador 053-664-1101 Hostels Busan Arpina 051-740-3228 Zen Backpackers 010-8722-1530

2nd Floor Restaurant 3rd Floor Sports Lounge

Restaurants Busan Ganga Indian Opposite Haeundae Beach. ganga.co.kr 051-740-6670

053-423-4048

GYEONGSANG

Gecko’s Western Perched on lovely Haeundae Beach at the Pale de CZ, you can get all of that authentic Western food you’re used to back home, and you’ll find bartenders who know how to mix a real margarita. 051-747-3069 Il Sole Italian Quality food with a great view of Haeundae Beach. 051-747-4253 Kebabistan Russian Uzbeki restaurant serving kebabs, soups and stews. Busan Station. 051-581-4050 Sunset Lounge American Drinks, Western food and fun delivered next to Haeundae. 051-742-2959 Daegu Berkeley Italian Hof Street. 053-421-8577 Buy the Book Western This bookstore and café is your source for free yoga, theater, and parties. Downtown Daegu.

The Holy Grill Western Owned and operated by Canadians, the Grill provides expats with fantastic sandwiches, burgers, Tex-Mex and breakfast in a chilled-out environment that feels more like a lounge than a burger joint. Move up to the 3rd floor to catch major sporting events. 053-423-4048 Leo Chow Mexican A decent selection of burritos and tacos. 053-255-7111 Maya Indian Gyeongbuk University. 053-214-1916 Samarkland Russian Daegu station. 053-252-4021 Siji Taco Mexican Spicy tacos at competitive prices 053-791-5050 South St. Western Philly cheesesteaks and cold cuts in Suseong-gu. blog. naver.com/southst105 053-768-7867 Gumi Waegook Cook American Gumi’s original foreign-owned and operated restaurant, serving steaks, hamburgers, seafood, pastas, and German cuisine. waegookcook.com 054-444-3775 cafe.daum.net/metalboys 011-9599-8370

Bars/Lounges/Pubs Busan Aligote Wines, cheese platters, and excellent service. Haeundae. 6 pm – 3 am. aligote-busan.com 051-731-3322 Basement Open mic nights on Tuesdays and parties galore. 011-9294-2391 Fuzzy Navel Great drinks and great Mexican food as well. 011-1757-6349 The HQ Bar Kyungsung’s only foreignerowned bar with sports and dart games. busankart@yahoo.com Rock ‘n’ Roll House Western-style bar with darts and pool and a great view of Haeundae. 051-742-5553 Sosa Bar A cozy latin bar close to Pusan National University. 051-513-0070 Wolfhound The same classic food and

10 Magazine April 2011 | 65

Performances Ongoing

JEJU ISLAND Religious Services Jeju Anglican/Episcopal Church Sinjeju 010-2500-6780

Classes Woodcarving and Engraving Workshop Jeju Museum of Art. Weekdays 10 – 11:30 am, 2 – 3:30 pm; weekends 10 – 11:30 am, 2 – 4 pm.

Nine Bridges Public Course

Hotels/Accommodations

DIS C OV ER Y

Golfing on Jeju Island

The popular vacation destination has more than just beaches. A trip to one of the 40 or so golf courses on the island can be a great way to experience some of the scenery on the island. Many courses have beautiful views of Halla Mountain in one direction and the sea in the other. Jeju’s golf courses also tend to be open for more of the year and are more reasonably priced than those on the mainland.

Cheju Country Club Public Course

The recently opened public course at the Cheju Country Club offers good value and scenic views of Jeju (“Cheju” is an older spelling). The course is very wide and lenient on a more novice golfer. It’s possible to leave with more balls than you came with. The golfers here are more forgiving for those who are not hitting bogey or better on each hole. P r i c e 9 holes is W46,000 during the week and W64,000 on

the weekend. Two golfers will need to add in W70,000 for the caddy and cart fee. S i z e 9 hole, par 36, 3196-yard course

chejucc.co.kr 064-702-0451 Ecol and Golf Course

This beautiful, naturally maintained course is surrounded by woodlands. It is an excellent place to golf since each hole is different from the last, with new challenges for golfers with each shot. The price is good, too, especially because no caddy is required. If you visit Ecoland, bring your balls with you: there are some hazards to deal with here. The course is rated 73.1- 73.3 because there is not a lot of rough to work with and plenty of obstacles. P r i c e The basic fee for one round of 18 holes is W90,000

JEJU ISLAND

during the week and W120,000 on the weekends (if you make your reservations online). Renting a two-person cart will cost W20,000. S i z e 27 hole, par 108, 9652-yard course www.ecolandjeju.co.kr 064-802-8000 Nine Bridges Public Course

The public course at Nine Bridges is extremely well maintained. It is as good as some private courses, except for the small size. Golfers walk the course with a hand-pulled cart. With no caddies or electric carts, it’s very peaceful here. The fact that the course is only six holes keeps away a lot of serious golfers, and that makes the environment ideal for learning or trying to remember your swing. ninebridges.co.kr 064-793-9999 P r i c e 6 holes is W16,000 during the week and W23,000 on

the weekend with a W30,000 cart fee. S i z e 6 hole, par 22, 1,523-yard course Words by Da niel McNamee

66 | 10 Magazine April 2011

Nanta Nanta, the non-verbal performance that got started ten years ago, is a feast for the ears that turns ordinary kitchen pots and pans into a rhythm section. Jeju Media Center in Jeju City (064-727-7800). 90 min. Sun 8 pm, Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 pm, 8 pm. W40,000 - W50,000. nanta.i-pmc.co.kr 1544-1555 April 1st - 3rd Mamma Mia!: The Musical The hit musical Mamma Mia! based on the songs of ABBA has landed on Jeju. Jeju Arts Center. Fri 8 pm, Sat 3 pm & 7 pm, Sun 2 pm. 180 min. W50,000 - W120,000. arts.jeju.go.kr 744-0766 April 2nd Kim Jae-dong Talk Concert Introducing a whole new concept of concert, Jaedong Kim intersperses his music with witty chatter (in Korean). International Convention Center Jeju (ICC Jeju). 100 mins. W66,000. iccjeju.co.kr 064-735-1000 April 16th - 17th Power Rangers Engine Force: The Musical The Red Power Ranger and his team will join forces once again to defeat evil. Jeju Arts Center, 11 am, 2 pm, 4:30 pm. 90 min. W35,000 - W45,000. arts.jeju.go.kr 744-0766 April 23th - 24th Hyun-woo Choi Magic Concert Awarded the Most Original Act at FISM (the world cup of magicians), his charming magic will enchant you. Jeju Halla Art Hall. Sat 3 pm & 7 pm. Sun 2 pm & 6 pm. 100min. W44,000 - W55,000. halla-c.ac.kr/org/art 064-741-7575

Hotel Lotte Jeju 5-Star 064-731-1000 Jeju Hiking Inn Hostel hikinginn.com 064-763-2380

Medical Services Dr. Chung’s Pediatric Clinic chung56@pednet.co.kr 064-748-1546 Hanna Women’s Clinic hannaobgy.com 064-711-7717 E-Pyeonhan Dental Clinic e-pretty.co.kr 064-758-2800

Museums Jeju Peace Museum Recounts the tragedy of forced laborers who worked during WWII. peacemuseum.co.kr 064-772-2500 Halla Arboretum A collection of hundreds of trees and flowers native to the island. Jeju City. Free. sumokwon.jeju.go.kr 064-710-7575

Radio Arirang Radio Jeju City: FM 88.7 Seogwipo: FM 88.1

Restaurants Bagdad Cafe Indian. Delicious, authentic Indian food made from local ingredients in a gorgeous atmosphere. Near City Hall in Jeju City 064-757-8182 Dom Jang Japanese. Spectacular sushi in several locations all over the island. The best atmosphere is in Jungmun. 064-738-2550

Family & Community April 1st - 3rd Jeju Cherry Blossom Festival Get ready and dive into the gorgeous white blossoms. Jeju Citizen Welfare Town. culture.jeju.go.kr 064-728-2754 April 9th - 10th Seosara Street Festival Cherry trees decorated with red-andblue silk lanterns. Jeju City, Jeonnong-ro. culture.jeju.go.kr 064-728-4531 April 14th - 16th Udo Spiny Turban Shell Festival Around Udo-myeon in Jeju. culture.jeju.go.kr 064-728-4321 April 23th - 24th Halla Mountain Bracken Festival Jeju-do is well known for its fields full of clean, natural bracken. Mulyoungari, Sumang-ri, Namwon-eup. culture.jeju.go.kr 064-760-4115

Sport & Fitness 2011 K-League April 2nd Jeju vs Sangju April 16th Jeju vs Pohang April 24th Jeju vs Seongnam All games are held at Jeju World Cup Stadium, 3 pm.

Island Gecko’s Western. A varied menu of terrific Western food, plus maybe the best cocktails and service on the island. The BBQ nights every weekend will blow you away with ribeye steak, sausages, and more for only W19,000. Jungmun. 064-739-0845 geckosterrace.com The Plate This modern bistro serves up a great American-style hamburger along with other Thai dishes. 064-746-8008 Zapata’s Mexican. Find it behind Burger King near City Hall in Jeju City. 064-722-3369

Bars/Lounges/Pubs Boris Brewery The brewer at the successful Modern Time Brewpub is opening up another shop with beer and Spanish sangria based on a 30-year-old recipe. 064-726-4141 Bull’s Darts Bar As the name suggests, they’ve got five dart boards, a variety of games, and even a women’s dart league. Near City Hall in Jeju City. 064-759-5559 Modern Time With locations at Grand Hotel Sageori and City Hall, this microbrewery provides beer lovers with some of the best homemade ales in Korea. 064-748-4180

NETWORKING CALENDAR E dited by J i s u n M o o n a n d dav i d carru t h

Friday, April 1st Ball Gown/Cocktail Dress Shopping with AWC Get ready for the upcoming ball and gala season by shopping for a designer dress at the Kay Unger store in Itaewon. 5 - 8 pm. Ladies will receive 10% off all dresses at the event and Kay Unger will donate 10% of sales to AWC. RSVP to Soojie (the owner) at soojieq@hotmail.com, awckorea-seoul.org 02-790-3691 Friday, April 1st SIWA Tour of Dongdaemun Design Plaza The Dongdaemun History and Culture Park will contain the Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP), which is currently under construction. SIWA members will learn more about the DDP and visit an observatory to get a detailed view of the site. 10 am - 12 pm. Meet outside ex. 1 of Dongdaemun History and Culture Park Stn. (line 1 & 4). SIWA members W5,000, non-members W8,000. siwapage.com Wednesday, April 6th BASS Tour of Namdaemun Market Join the BASS crew for a fun tour around this traditional market. They will show you a great stationery shop, wrapping paper and greeting card alley, underground jewelry market, and more. Wear comfy footwear! 10 am - 1 pm. britishseoul.com Thursday, April 7th SIWA Newcomers Meeting Newcomers to the city team up with veterans to swap tips on how to enjoy life here. This is also a good time to sign up for SIWA if you haven’t already. 10 am at Seoul Club. siwapage.com Monday, April 11th SIWA Tour of Eastern Bukchon Hanok Village Bukchon is a fascinating neighborhood with many traditional Korean wooden houses (hanok). The tour, led by Professor David A Mason, will include the Bukchon Cultural Centre and five small museums. Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex. 3). 9:30 am - 1 pm. SIWA members W25,000, non-members W28,000 (includes g u i d e d t o u r a n d m u s e u m a d m i s s i o n) . siwapage.com, karen_tam@post.com

Thursday, April 14th FKCCI Café du Commerce Parlez-vous le français? Meet other French speakers at this event held on the 2nd Thursday of every month. Check the website for more details. fkcci.com Saturday, April 16th AWC Cherry Blossom Gala Join AWC for a refreshing spring evening with cocktails, buffet dinner, and a silent auction as they raise funds to support worthy charities. Cocktail attire. Banyan Tree Hotel, Seoul. 6:30 pm. AWC members W65,000, non-members W75,000. RSVP mc2kt4@aol.com, awckorea-seoul.org Saturday, April 16th BASS Darts Tournament Join BASS for a fun evening at their inaugural darts tournament. They will be playing 501 Up with prizes for the winners. The price includes a pub food buffet, and drinks may be purchased separately at the bar. 6:30 - 11:30 pm. Aston Hall, Broughton Club, British Embassy, Seoul. Members W25,000, non-members W30,000. RSVP by April 8th. britishseoul.com, events@britishseoul.com Tuesday, April 19th Asia Society Monthly Luncheon: First Step to a New Beginning T his m o n t h’s lu n c h e o n f e a t u r e s gu e s t speaker Young-Gak (Ken) Yun, the current C h air m a n a n d C EO o f S a m j o n g K P M G . Charlotte Suite at the Lotte Hotel Seoul. Noon - 1:30 pm. RSVP by Friday, April 15. askoreacenter@gmail.com Tuesday, April 19th ANZA Global Cafe ANZA welcomes Jim Lim, General Manager of MLA, for this month’s Global Cafe. Mr. Lim will be speaking about Australian beef and offering a cooking demonstration. Paris Grill Bar and Cafe at the Grand Hyatt Hotel in Seoul. 10 am - noon. Members W10,000, non-members W15,000. anzakorea.com Tuesday, April 26th BASS Monthly Coffee Join the members of BASS for their monthly get-together. This month they have invited

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Wednesday, April 13th

Rugby World Cup Dinner and Christchurch Earthquake Fundraiser The Kiwi Chamber and AUSTCHAM will host a dinner to raise funds for the rebuilding of Christchurch after the recent earthquake in New Zealand. VIPs on the guest list include Sean Fitzpatrick (ex-captain of the All Blacks) and Eddie Jones (former head coach of the Wallabies). Grand Ballroom, Grand Hyatt Seoul. 6:30 - 10:30 pm. Tickets for tables of 10 people: W1,000,000 for members, W1,200,000 for nonmembers. Purchase yours through the website. kiwichamber.com Edith Loney to speak about the benefits of yoga along with some tips for self-practice and a demonstration. Newcomers are welcome. Hallasan room at the Seoul Club. 10 am - 12 noon. BASS members W10,000, non-members W14,000. britishseoul.com Tuesday, April 26th SIWA Visit to “Green Tomorrow” House This is your oppor tunity to visit the first unique 100% ecological house in Korea. “Green Tomorrow” introduces a new vision of sustainable architecture through creating energ y independence and minimizing environmental impact. Meet in front of Grand Hyatt Hotel in Seoul. 9 am - 3 pm. SIWA members W15,000, non-members W20,000. Lunch paid separately. siwapage.com, corine.morel@gmail.com Saturday, April 30th ANZA Ocean’s 11 Charity Ball Sing with Frank Sinatra and dance with James Dean at this event inspired by the Rat Pack era of 1960s Las Vegas. Casino tables, cocktails, and a cabaret show by Australian st ar s D av id M alek, D ale Bur r id ge, and Derek Metzger make up a night of decadent delights. By attending, you help ANZA support five Korean charities. Held at the ballroom of the Grand Hyatt Hotel. W225,000 members, W245,000 non-members. Book by April 15th. anzakorea.com AMCHAM American Chamber of Commerce ANZA Australia and New Zealand Association of Korea AUSTCHAM Australia Chamber of Commerce AWC American Women’s Club BASS British Association of Seoul FKCCI French Chamber of Commerce and Industry in Korea Kiwi Chamber New Zealand Chamber of Commerce SIWA Seoul Int’l Women’s Association

To list your event, contact David Carruth at calendar@10mag.com or 02-3447-1610 10 Magazine April 2011 | 67

NETWORKING CALENDAR

Wednesday, April 13th SIWA Cherry Blossom Tour On this tour, you can visit some of the best places to see Korea’s cherr y blossoms,

including Yeouido, Gwacheon, and Yongin. Sinyongsan Stn. (line 4, ex. 1). 8:30 am 6 pm. SIWA members W40,000 KRW, nonmembers W45,000. siwapage.com

Reverse Psychology Words by Sama n t h a Di x-H i ll , I llustration by Pat r ick Volz

are to k now my t wo favor ite words in Korea? Valet parking. Now, I know that most of you are clever enough not to drive in Seoul and the rest of you lucky souls have drivers, but for some of us, easily recognizable by our permanent frown, there is no end to the excitement that we face daily. And I use the word “excitement” loosely. First, there is the daunting task of finding a space to park, which is why I love valet parking. Previously, I have only handed over my keys at gunpoint, yet now I will happily give my keys to anyone who is prepared to park my car, and smile when I’m charged a fortune for doing so. Then there are those occasions when I’m forced to f ind my own parking, and here I’m often confronted with that strangest of all creatures; the Reverse Parker. The Reverse Parker, as the name indicates, is someone who insists on driving into parking spaces backwards. I have no idea why they do this but my husband suggests it’s for the benefit of a quick getaway. What? Now we’re gangsters living 68 | 10 Magazine April 2011

on the mean streets? Logically, it makes no sense to drive backwards into a narrow space when it’s far easier to drive forwards. Then you can reverse out into the bigger space when you leave. Have you ever sat and waited while somebody maneuvers in and out of a parking spot at least five times? By the time they finally get the car properly aligned, you’ve turned a day older. I once watched a woman do this for an eternity before she eventually gave up, came over and gave me her keys. Valet parking? If you still have no idea what I’m referring to, then you should visit one of the wholesale supermarkets in Seoul. You know the ones where you buy everything in bulk and leave with a trolley piled high with food you never knew you liked or needed. It’s a source of huge amusement to me to watch people push their trolleys to their car and then observe as their expressions change from the deep flush of consumer contentment to pure panic as they realize they can’t access their trunk. After a lot of head scratching, the trolley is temporarily ditched whilst the owner pulls the

car out, thereby blocking the whole gangway and causing chaos. My other favorite place is the airport. My husband was dropping me off at Incheon last month and to my amusement he reversed parked snugly against a wall and some thorny bushes. And because I’m a polite wife and a great believer in experiential learning (and letting others carry my suitcase), I let him figure it out himself. Less then two minutes later, we were re-parking the car forwards. I rest my (suit) case. Research shows that humans are prone to something called “group think,” which simply means that if one does it, then we’ll all do it. If the person in front of you reverse parks, chances are you’ll do it too. I know that somebody is going to tell me that reverse parking is the law in Seoul, but not all laws are clever. And if you still insist on doing it that’s fine by me. I’ll be sipping my second cappuccino while you’re still on your fourth maneuver. But yes, your getaway will be slightly faster than mine. Gangster.