10 Magazine December 2011

Art • Theater • Concerts • Film • Community • Fitness • Dine & Drink • Nightlife • TRAVEL

Korea awaits! • december 2011 VOL. 4 NO. 3

외국인의 한국생활 노하우

Christmas Uncorked 7 Wine Urban Legends and 7 Wine Buying Tips

Plus: • Must-Try Dish: Galbi Jjim • Jazz Pianist Jean Gaetan • Dresses for Christmas Parties • Kyoto’s 5 Best Temples Printed using 100% soy ink.

10 is more than just a magazine...

10mag.com • facebook.com/10magazine • twitter.com/10_magazine 10mag.com/weekly10 • 10mag.com/podcast New podcasts are released on the 1st and 15th of every month.

It’s the total package.

December 2011 vol. 4 No. 3 Nationwide Calendar

4 From the Editor / Shot of Korean

42 Movies Punch (완득이 ), Real Steel, In Time

6 Contributors 8 Letters / Blog of the Month / Korea by the Numbers

43 TV Tree with Deep Roots on SBS 44 Music Destroyer, Wooden Ships, and Girls’ Generation

9 Reader’s 10 10 10 Questions Jean Gaetan, Jazz Pianist 12 History Queen Min’s Carpet 14 Taste of Korea Galbi Jjim

44 Books A Cautionary Tale

16 In the Kitchen Chef Gunnar Müller

45 Tech Kindles for Christmas

18 Expat Expertise Dressing the Part

Regional Calendar

20 Film A Brief History of Korean Cinema

47 Seoul Foodie Find Braai Republic 50 Seoul Discovery D-Cube City Mall

26 Asian Destination The Temples of Kyoto 34 Hotel & Resort News 36 Expat News 38 Gastronomic News 72 A Happy Ending

51 Seoul Editor’s Pick Launch Party for Sotto Gamba Album

‘Tis the Season to Enjoy Wine

55 Seoul Nightlife Planning Your Night Out 63 Gyeonggi Foodie Find What’s David’s?

66 Jeolla Discovery Gwangju Cat Café 68 Gyeongsang Discovery Centum City Shopping

Shot by Bryce Weibley

Shot by Jim Cheney

24 Korean Destination Mokpo, City of Lights

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How well do you know your wine facts? Wine importer Dan Schulte dispels some common myths about the alcohol and explains how it got so popular—and expensive—in Korea.

70 Jeju Discovery Led Zeppelin

10’s New Korean Culture Podcast

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hese are amazing times we’re living in. 2011 has brought us the “Arab Spring” which has already led to the ouster of two dictators in major Middle Eastern nations while others hang on by a thread. A few months ago the “Occupy Wall Street” demonstrations got started with a few dozen people in a park and within a few months snowballed into a nationwide movement that is only gaining traction as time goes on. The first couple of weeks they were out there the mainstream media was not paying any attention. Word got out through independent media outlets and YouTube videos spread like wildfire through Facebook and Twitter.

Meanwhile a minor Korean revolution happened this year as well. As a foreigner living in Korea, I will readily admit that I haven’t been paying much attention to Korean politics in my time here, so to be honest, I didn’t realize how historic this election was at the time. To start with, this is the first time in history that the mayor is not affiliated with any political party. Seoul Mayor Park Won-soon is an independent. As for his background, he was kicked out of his university for demonstrating against Korea’s dictator Park Chung-hee but later still managed to became a lawyer - more specifically a human rights lawyer who campaigned against corruption. He then became the founder of “Beautiful Foundation” (아름다운 재단) in 2000, which can best be described to people from the West as Korea’s “Salvation Army” or “Oxfam.” Today it is a massive organization operating over 100 “Beautiful Stores” all over Korea that is completely transparent, posting its finances on the Internet for all to see.

Few would doubt that Park owes his electoral success to the support of young people and the power of the Internet. There is a new juggernaut of the Korean Internet that started this year as well, and it’s called 나는 꼼수다 (Na-neun Ggom-su-da.) This podcast, which takes aim at Korea’s elite in both politics and business, could never have gotten a second look on a public radio or TV station as it would have been considered too controversial.

But the podcast format has allowed the team to say what they

want and take on the powers that be while still being disseminated on a massive scale - at very little cost and without com mercial sponsors.

Suffice it to say that these are exciting times. The world is in a state of flux and we’re all trying to keep up. There is plenty to be worried about too; with a possible European debt crisis and threats of recession constantly percolating in the background, we’re still assessing what all of these revolutions, demonstrations and movements mean and where they are headed. There’s always a danger they could take a turn for the worse - although I’m confident we’re headed in an exciting and positive direction - and I run print media!

At 10, we’ve always tried to be the best event magazine, with our motto, “Korea Awaits!”, and our constant refrain being “Enjoy Korea more with 10 Magazine.” Now, however, we’re adding another goal. We want to help you be more involved in Korea too, and keep you “in the know” so that you can have more informed and interesting conversations with your Korean friends and family. To this end we’re starting a new Podcast this month, the 10 Magazine Korea Culture Report. It will include discussion about 10’s great event information of course, but it will also inform you about the hot topics that are on the lips of all your Korean friends as well. Visit us at 10mag.com to hear our first podcast and we hope you’ll give us your feedback and comments and help us keep improving.

Steph en R ev er e M anaging E ditor

A Shot of Korean by Stephen Revere In honor of a phrase you may hear on ‘나는 꼼수다’ occasionally: 완전 엉망이야. [Wan-jeon eong-mang-e-ya.] - This totally sucks; It’s complete trash.

The adjective for “completely” or “totally” is “완전히”. That “히” on the end there is the equivalent of “ly” in Korean. Sometimes when you’re shortening up something, however, the slang version drops the ‘히’ and just says “완전.” You will also frequently hear the shortened version, “완전 좋아,” which is of course the positive version of the saying above as 좋다 (jo-ta) is the verb for to be good or great. You may have some trouble with those double “ngs” there, so be careful how you pronounce it. Record a Korean friend saying it and listen a few dozen times while repeating. 그 시스템이 완전 엉망이야. (Geu si-seu-tem-i wan-jeon eong-mang-i-ya.) - That system is totally screwed up.

Check out Survival Korean and Survival Korean: Basic Grammar Skills for more Korean lessons from 10’s Managing Editor, Stephen Revere.

4 | 10 Magazine December 2011

Let us lead the way...we invite you to experience the Millennium Seoul Hilton

Book the experience of a lifetime at millenniumseoulhilton.co.kr

Jim Cheney (p. 26) is from Baltimore, Maryland, and enjoys traveling, writing, baseball, and photography. Having lived in Korea for nearly two years, he has enjoyed the opportunity to travel across the country. His passion is helping others travel independently, and more of his writing can be found on his website, Tripologist.com.

Ciaran Hickey (p. 14), the director of cuisine at W Seoul Walkerhill, has been cooking and travelling for over 25 years. In a career that has taken him from the Caribbean to Istanbul, from New York to Seoul, he has been travelling and learning about food at every opportunity. As well as the other world influences that he brings to his food, Chef Hickey’s time here has allowed him to add the flavors and techniques of Korea to his growing repertoire. This will be his last column on Korean food for 10.

Chelsie Kozera (p. 65) has been an English teacher in Jecheon for two years.

She hails from Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, but is enjoying living abroad for as long as she can. She’s now between teaching contracts, wandering around India and Nepal with a backpack strapped to her back. While living in Korea, she made it her mission to explore a lot of the country’s festivals, activities, and culture.

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Contributors Michael Berry, Dominique Buck, Jim Cheney, Judith Clancy, Andy Clay, Matthew Crawford, Samantha Dix-Hill, Emma Dooley, Dave Hazzan, Ian Henderson, Ciaran Hickey, Nina Hoffman, Cassie Hwang, Yoo-jung Jang, Young-rae Kim, Chelsie Kozera, Leroy Kucia, Angela Lee, Jessica Lee, Kathy Lim, Stafford Lumsden, Doug MacDonald, Paul Matthews, Joe McPherson, John Mensing, Charles Montgomery, Ji-sun Moon, Robert Neff, Anna Orzel, Rob Ouwehand, Christine Park, Milgem Rabanera, Grace Sun, Jade Suson, Martyn Thompson, Bryce Weibley, Soyeon Kimberly Yoon.

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10 S ta f f S p o t l i g h t

Jessica Lee loves learning a new language and is interested in anything that engages her creative mind. She enjoys hanging out with her friends, dancing and working out. Although she is very happy working for 10 Magazine and learning Chinese now, she misses Canada immensely, especially Victoria, B.C., where she is planning to buy a house in the future.

Milgem Rabanera (p. 63) hails from Southern California and currently resides in middle-of-nowhere Yeongjong Island.

She left her prior career in publishing to teach, get some world traveling in, and seek out wallet-friendly foodie finds wherever she happens to be exploring. You’ll find her eating, drinking, and being merry in the myriad neighborhoods of Seoul to get her weekend jollies, or jumping around front row at a rock concert.

Dan Schulte (p. 30) is a licensed wine master and CEO of Pieroth Wines in Korea. An avid bodybuilder, he enjoys exercise of all types such as weight training, “Bootcamp” at Studio-X, snowboarding and scuba diving.

Although a wine lover, you may occasionally catch him enjoying a nice cold beer at a local bar and he will not turn away anyone that would like to buy him one after reading this article.

Contribute to 10 Magazine 10 Magazine is currently looking for contributors all over Korea to provide photography and articles. If you’re interested in gaining valuable writing experience and sharing your experience here with readers all across Korea, contact us at 10mag.com/contribute.

6 | 10 Magazine December 2011

The views expressed in these articles do not necessarily represent the views of 10 Magazine.

Please Recycle This Magazine

10 Magazine December 2011, Vol. 4 No. 3 등록번호: 용산 라 00184 (Registration: Yongsan Ra 00184) Address 서울시 용산구 이태원로 211 한남빌딩 10층 10th floor Hannam Buildling 211 Itaewon-ro, Seoul 140-893 Phone 02-3447-1610 www.10mag.com 10 Magazine is published monthly by 10 Media Inc. © All Rights Reserved.

! n o w u S o t g n i d n a p Ex

Grand Opening Party

December 16th, complimentary OB all night with ticket from Sam Ryan’s Itaewon.

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NEW LOCATION

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NH Bank

Shoe Cake House 5

6

Deokyeong dae-ro (덕영대로)

3

Suwon Train Station

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1

Suwon Subway Station, Exit 1 Train Station Exit 5 6-1 Mesanro 2 ga Paldal gu Suwon Gyeonggi-do 031.253.7933

DEPARTMENTS letters An Essential Tip for Gadget Shoppers

I may be spoiling a secret here, but it will save more than a few people a decent amount of money. Anyone shopping for electronics in Korea should first go to www.danawa.com (“everything must go”) to get an idea of what really are the cheapest prices for electronic goods. You need to know at least hangeul to navigate the site, but you’ll be able to find whatever product you’re looking for (since research before you go is a must) and if you mention the website to the generous shop owner who’s only giving you something

slightly cheaper or pretending that the cheap neoprene case on offer is really “service,” he’ll surely look crestfallen since he knows that you know what the real prices are.

Daniel Lenaghan, Seoul This helpful letter came in response to our November article about the best places to go to shop for electronic goods. As it so happens, his suggestion came at a good time, since we are planning on following up that piece with another about online shopping websites, which will be printed in our January issue. Keep your eye out for our next issue to learn more about danawa.com and other websites that can simplify your shopping. And Daniel, thanks for sharing!

10

Blog of the Month

Indieful ROK: You Really Thought K-Pop was Everything? indiefulrok.blogspot.com Words by Rob Ouwehand

Korea by the Numbers

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The percentage of Koreans who were ‘very proud’ to be Korean in 1981

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The percentage of Koreans who are ‘very proud’ to be Korean currently.*

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The percentage of Koreans in their 30s and 40s who are ‘very proud’ to be Korean.*

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The percentage of Koreans in their 60s who are ‘very proud’ to be Korean.* *2010 statistics

Source: Gallup Korea

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A common expat complaint in Korea is the sameness of the music: every dollar store, coffee shop and cosmetics vendor blasts the same peppy pop or goopy ballads from the same indistinguishable boy and girl bands and mooing balladeers—and if family restaurant and fashion retailer soundtracks were all we had, that musical wasteland criticism would be correct.

Fortunately, when the saccharine gets too sticky, music blog Indieful ROK steps in to remind us that there is a whole world of great Korean music to be found outside the mainstream, if listeners ignore the radio noise and look around in earnest.

Started in 2008 by Helikoppter, a Swedish K-pop superfan, and Orienkorean, whose defunct YouTube channel still features some good Indie Korean music, Indieful ROK announces underground shows and performances, new artists, upcoming albums and release parties, and it tracks the chart success of Korean indie groups making mainstream inroads. Recently, updates also discuss I Am a Singer (나는 가수다), the hit Korean television series that showcases indie artists alongside more established names.

The Scores Content Its biggest strength is the mostly original content, with very little recycling of other blogs’ writing. In particular, the special features and artist interviews on the right sidebar are a goldmine.

Layout Ordinary black text on white background, with a somewhat small, squint-inducing font.

Archives are a little difficult to locate.

Professionalism Averaging 30-50 posts a month for three years takes commitment.

THE READER'S 10

What Are the Top 10 Things to Do in Seoul in 24 Hours?

P

icture this: you’ve just got off the plane at Incheon Airport and are ready to spend the next 24 hours in Seoul.

It’s one of the world’s biggest metropolitan areas, and there’s bound to be plenty to do. But where do you go? Of all of the tourist-oriented activities that get promoted in Lonely Planet and TripAdvisor, which ones are really worth it?

We turned to our readers for the answers, and they gave us some definitive ones. In particular, what not to do—few respondents cared much for touring the Blue House, Seodaemun Prison, or Jongmyo. And while the Samcheong-dong coffee shops and Itaewon food scene are popular with long-term residents, neither made it onto the top 10 list. Here’s what did:

Image courtesy of Wikipedia

10 Shopping at Namdaemun Market 9 Shopping at Hongdae Free Market 8 Visiting a Jjimjilbang 7 Eating at Noryangjin Seafood Market 6 Touring Bukcheon Hanok Village 5 Partying in Hongdae 4 Visting Gyeongbokgung Palace 3 Shopping in Insadong 2 Visiting N Seoul Tower

1 Eating Korean BBQ For our January poll, we’re asking a question that is close to the heart of every magazine editor: what kind of articles do you want us to run? We’re not asking because we’re out of ideas—far from it—but because we want to get you, our readers, involved in the process. We hope you’ll let us pick your brain!

What Is the Article That You Most Want to Read in 10?

You can share your ideas via our open thread at 10mag. com/readers10 through December 7th. We will then use these as the options in our Reader’s 10 poll, which you can vote in from December 8th through December 15th. To give our readers even more motivation to come up with some great suggestions, we are going to give away free 1-year subscriptions (W19,900 value) to the three people whose article ideas we like the most.

10 Magazine December 2011 | 9

10 Qu estions

Jean Gaetan Pianist Extraordinaire at Tokyo Jazz I nt e r v i e w and S H ots by Dy l a n G o l dby

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eople who know this France native call him the Jazz Messenger: a man who is always bringing something, always giving something. Jean Gaetan Alkoordoss of Tokyo Jazz, across from Seven Luck in Samseongdong, has toured the world, his fingers gliding across the keys in more than 150 countries; everywhere from France and throughout Europe to Bahrain and Dubai. He studied at the music conservatories of both Paris and Venice, and became a professional musician at the age of 15. Since then, he has played festivals and clubs alike, but what brings this world-class pianist to the Miracle on the Han, where the jazz scene is seemingly much smaller than other potential residences? 10 Magazine sat down with Jean one evening to find out just that.

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1. What brought you to Korea?

About five years ago, I was working for an agency and they asked me to play the Seoul Intercontinental Hotel. At this time, I had never been to Asia, so I thought “Why not?” I was walking around one night when I stumbled upon Tokyo Jazz, which had no live music at the time and was just a bar. The owner and I clicked, and after finishing my contract at the hotel we bought instruments and started playing in the bar. At first, just two nights a week, but it grew from there and now we play every day.

2. You’ve been here for five years now; what do you enjoy about living in Korea?

I love the country and I really like the people here, and of course the growing jazz scene. There is a lot of young talent here 10 Magazine December 2011

and the scene is in its early stages. Also, I have a lot of friends in Japan and there’s a great jazz scene there, too. Besides, I’m tired of traveling, and I’d like to settle here. We used to be able to smoke on airplanes, and we can’t do that now.

3. You seem to really enjoy life here; is there anything that is perhaps challenging or frustrating?

Nothing really. To be honest, I can live anywhere. During my time here, it has become an easier place to live, personally, because I have started to pick up a lot more Korean words.

Being able to live a little more independently makes life easier.

It’s also a shame that we don’t have a Blue Note here. We had one, but it closed down after only two months.

4. How did you become interested in jazz? Do you have any other musical interests?

This goes back a long way. I come from a family of musicians and I started to play when I was 6 years old. The instruments were there and I was there. I guess it just happened. Along the way, I have been lucky to meet the right people at the right time, and that has really helped me grow. In terms of other music, you could say I don’t like anything too specific, just good music.

5. How did your resident bar, Tokyo Jazz, get started?

The owner of this bar, Julee Sung, was living in Japan and was a big part of the scene there. She ran a bar in Shinjuku under the same name for ten years before coming back to Korea and moving the concept here. She kept the name and the bar, and has been running it here for seven years now. I now also spend some time in Japan enjoying the scene there, as well.

6. How would you describe the clientele?

I really like this area because there is no specific age or kind of people who come here. Everyone from Korean businessmen to foreign tourists visit our shows. We also have a lot of regular patrons who continue to visit for the mixture we offer. As education about music here becomes broader, people’s knowledge of different kinds of music has fueled their interest in jazz.

7. How would you characterize the jazz scene here?

It’s coming. That’s all I have to say. People here like to hear something new, something different. In Europe, it’s all been done before. But here, Korean musicians are playing well, and they’re doing it in a different way.

8. Has the scene changed during your time in Korea?

Certainly! In my time here, it has grown so much. But now with kids learning about different kinds of music and more and more young people studying jazz specifically, the scene cannot help but grow. Approximately 300 Korean students are attending Berklee right now. Korean parents are willing to spend for education, and the younger generation wants to learn jazz.

I give it 5 years until the scene here will be at the same level as Japan.

9. When you’re not behind the piano, are there any other jazz clubs you enjoy visiting in Seoul?

Of course. I like to visit Evans and All That Jazz. Both are great places with some creative music. I love to hear fusion, and it is happening in Seoul. Some people don’t like it, but it’s all about creativity; things change everywhere. Sometimes I like to just go around and listen to what’s going on. I also love to jam.

10. What do you see yourself doing in the future?

Still playing, of course. The more you play, the better you get. I will be making my first trip to Russia very soon, which I’m excited about. I will be playing a concert, then I will have some time to visit a jazz festival to listen before I play at the end of the festival. In terms of Korea, I would like to work on some recorded material to take with me to Japan, and perhaps bring Japanese musicians to Korea. I would like to work on some fusion jazz, maybe even involving some Korean traditional instruments. All I know is that I will still be playing.

10 Magazine December 2011 | 11

The Mystery of Queen Min’s Carpet

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ith the horrible destruction of the Korean War came abject poverty. People did whatever they could to make money and, unfortunately, many of them were forced to sell off their cherished heirlooms in order to put food on their tables and shelter over their heads. Often these heirlooms were sold to American soldiers for a mere pittance. The soldiers then sent them back to the United States as souvenirs or gifts for family and loved ones.

Perhaps the most famous of these gifts was the legendary Queen Min’s Carpet.

While wandering through the ruined streets of Seoul in April 1951, 27-year-old Sergeant Elverne H. Giltner, a communications chief for an Eighth Army reconnaissance company, encountered a Korean selling what he claimed were valuable antiques from his cart. One item, a huge carpet – nearly eighteen and a half feet long and about eight feet wide – made from the matched pelts of 48 leopards immediately caught Giltner’s attention. Although he didn’t explain how he had come by the carpet, the Korean peddler claimed “it was worth at least $25,000 and came from the Chang

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Duk palace in Seoul.” He was willing to sell it for a mere 150,000 Korean won – worth about $25 USD. Giltner promptly bought it and in a letter to his parents wrote that he was sending them “a pretty nice Korean rug” that he had picked up.

For nearly three months Giltner lugged the carpet around before “receiving ‘official’ clearance papers” declaring the carpet “spoils of war.” He then packed the carpet in a torn duffel bag and shipped it to his parents in Pueblo, Colorado.

When Mrs. Giltner received the carpet she was overwhelmed by its size and beauty. It was far too large for her living room or any place else in her house. “It looks just like a leopard – a beautiful thing to behold,” she declared and then concluded that it was “too fine for me to walk on” and that “it really belongs in a museum or really big house.”

Unable to make use of the carpet, she was determined to sell it.

While displaying it in her yard – “the best place to get a good view of it” – several of her neighbors offered to buy it but none of their prices were close to what she thought it was worth so she sent it to Richard R. Simmons, a fur dealer, for cleaning and storage. Sim-

Shiela Yang, the Korean ambassador to the United States’ twelve-year- old daughter, holding the carpet in the Korean Embassy in Washington, D.C. United Press Telephoto (February 20, 1952), Robert Neff Collection

10 Magazine December 2011

Words BY Robert Neff Photos courtesy of the Robert Neff collection

During the Korean War, many of the American soldiers bought the little dolls displayed on the chest (the chest could be bought for $3) and sent them home as souvenirs. Fred Dustin, a Korean War veteran, recalls that “many of them were quite good and very representative of ‘Koreana.’”

Fred Dustin Collection

mons, recognizing the value of the item, showed it to the press.

The Korean consul general in New York, David Nam-koong, noticed the picture of the carpet in a newspaper and thought it was a “very odd” souvenir for a solder to send home. He was convinced that it was an ornament that once hung in Queen Min’s palace prior to her assassination in 1895 and that it was worth about $100,000, “if such a priceless national treasure can have a price tag.”

The Korean government demanded that the carpet be returned, which the Giltner family agreed to do providing it could be proven that the carpet was a valuable heirloom. Apparently the proof was provided.

It is unclear what compensation, if any, the Korean government provided but in September 1951 Hanora’s Fabric, a New York manufacturing company specializing in synthetic leopard skin, offered to provide the Giltner family with an exact replica of the carpet for free.

The carpet was returned to Korea sometime in 1952 but somehow ended up disappearing. In 2010, the Cultural Heritage Administration, a Korean organization attempting to recover lost Korean treasures, demanded that the Korean government account for the valuable carpet. The National Museum responded by revealing what it claims is the legendary Queen Min’s carpet.

But in an interview with Korea Herald in May 2010 Lim Jaewan, a museum official, explained that there was some question as to the claim that the carpet was owned by Queen Min. The plum flower pattern, which is on the back of the carpet, was not used in the palace until after 1897 – two years after Queen Min’s death.

But is it the same carpet? The carpet the museum possesses is about 3 cms shorter than Giltner’s carpet allegedly was. Perhaps this is explained by Lim, who noted that there is “the possibility that there was more than one carpet of this kind in the palace.”

10 Magazine December 2011 | 13

A TASTE OF KOREA

Galbi Jjim

갈비찜

W o r ds by C i a r a n H i ck e y, sh ot by D o u g M ac D o n a l d

While galbi usually refers to grilled beef ribs served at a BBQ restaurant, galbi jjim is a comfort food akin to hearty beef stew.

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n the cold of the Korean winter, there are few things as satisfying as a bowl of galbi jjim. Aside from the dates and chestnuts, this dish has to be the closest thing to what I would refer to as beef stew that you can find here. Back home, we serve it on mashed potatoes, but steamed rice works just as well for me.

The key ingredient that makes this dish a classic comfort food is the beef rib meat. It’s loaded with fat and when slow cooked with the seasonings it becomes tender and delicate, picking up the flavors from the other ingredients. The marbling of the fat varies greatly, so choosing the beef can be a time-consuming process.

Also, the meat is served still on the rib bones, giving the dish the appearance of a rustic, hearty dish that might be found on a farm. There’s nothing fancy about this dish—except the taste.

The sweetness of the dish is cut by the vegetable and ginger fla-

vors; I also like to sneak a chili or two into mine.

Galbi jjim is prepared by boiling the beef rib cubes in a large pot for about 30 minutes, removing any impurities. The meat is then boiled again in fresh water together with vegetables, herbs and spices to create a stock. After the meat is softened, it’s removed from the stock and the fat is skimmed from the surface. Next, the stock is mixed with soy sauce, sugar, rice wine, sesame oil, onion and pear which have all been blended together.

The pear is there to add sweetness and help tenderize the meat.

At this point, the meat is returned to the sauce and simmered with a lid on until almost done. The dates and chestnuts are added for the last 20 minutes of slow cooking as the sauce reduces and concentrates. You can add your choice of vegetables to the dish: radishes, carrots, potatoes, ginko nuts or mushrooms.

One of the secrets to galbi jjim’s tenderness is this half-braising, half-steaming cooking method which renders the fat in the meat down slowly. The finished dish can usually be served in the stone dish it’s cooked in. And there’s no better time than the cold depths of winter to experience this delicious slow-cooked treat.

Netizen’s Picks

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K ang Ho-dong 678 Jjim 강호동 678찜 6+7+8=21. In Eastern philosophy, 21 represents wisdom and achievement.

Korean celebrity Kang Ho-dong has certainly achieved success with his chain of galbi jjim restaurants. At the Apgujeong branch, choose from three kinds of galbi jjim: cheese, pepper, and a combination of the two. 63616 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul.

678jjim.com 02-517-0678

10 Magazine December 2011

Suwon Wondang Galbi 수원 원당갈비 Galbi? Or galbi jjim? For those days when you just can’t decide, Suwon Wondong Galbi’s the place to go.

Order a serving of galbi, and when you’re finished, they’ll fix up some spicy galbi jjim with the leftover ribs. 940-25 Ingye-dong, Paldal-gu, Suwon-si, Gyeonggi-do. blog.naver.com/wondanggalbi 031-226-6688

Nakyeong Jjim Galbi 낙영찜갈비 Turn up the heat on your galbi jjim experience at Daegu’s famous Dongin-dong jjim galbi alley. In addition to reversing the word order, jjim galbi gets spicy with the addition of red peppers and minced garlic. Start at Nakyeong Jjim Galbi, a restaurant favored by regulars at the alley. The Hanwoo (Korean beef) option is W25,000 a pop, but you won’t regret it.

297-1, Dongin-dong 1-ga, Jung-gu, Daegu. nakyoung.com 053-423-3330

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IN THE KITCHEN Chef Gunnar Müller mixes the spirit of his father’s cuisine with his own vision and taste at the newly opened Feast.

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ising up from Sindorim Station, the Sheraton Seoul D Cube City Hotel is a remarkable building. Arriving at the 41st f loor, I’m struck by the awe-inspiring view of the city. The Sheraton’s Feast restaurant offers a chance to see Seoul from a new perspective as well as sample a world of flavors from Executive Chef Gunnar Müller.

Starting his apprenticeship in Germany at the age of sixteen, Gunnar was inspired by his father’s culinary skills, especially his homemade potato soup. With dreams of being able to recreate his father’s cuisine, he set off into the wild world of restaurants and hotels, cooking his way through Europe, New Zealand and the United Kingdom.

It was in London in 2005 that he met his wife to be and began to lea r n about he r homela nd , Ko r e a . He f i r s t f le w he r e i n November of that year and found work at a prominent hotel. The move from Europe to Seoul was a shock, both in adjusting to the busyness of Korean life and in discovering the beauty of the city lit up at night.

Gunnar has also been surprised by how quickly things can change. After leaving Seoul in 2008 to work in Lhasa, Guam and Saigon, he came back earlier this year to start work at the Sheraton and discovered a flourishing of cafes and sandwich shops that had popped up in his absence.

He’s happy to be back on the peninsula and makes regular trips to his wife’s hometown of Gyeongju. He has toured the country from Sokcho to Namhae, exploring all it has to offer, and when he has the chance he visits local Korean restaurants. Gunnar has a reputation for tasting every side dish on the table. He says the food always looks so interesting that he has to try it.

At Feast, he is striving to create a buffet experience that stands out from other restaurants and hotels. From freshly prepared sushi and exquisite Korean banchan to roasted meats and an extraordinary dessert bar, Chef Gunnar is focused on taste and bringing the best dishes he can to his customers. In previous months, he has spotlighted pumpkins and white chocolate, and as the winter strawberries come into season he’ll make sure that their seasonal flavors will be featured in Feast’s magnificent spread. He also promises that his father’s potato soup will be served at the restaurant—food filled with love and care that has passed down from generation to generation.

Like Father, Like Son W o r ds and sh ots by Pau l M att h e w s

Chef Müller’s Pickled Herring on Pumpernickel Bread Herring

• • • • • •

1/4 cup kosher salt 5 cups water 1 pound herring fillets 2 cups distilled vinegar 1/4 cup sugar 1 teaspoon mustard seed

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• • • • • •

2 teaspoons whole allspice 2 teaspoons black peppercorns 3 bay leaves 3 cloves 1 lemon, thinly sliced 1 medium red onion, thinly sliced

Bring the water to boil and dissolve the salt.

Cool to room temperature. Place the herring fillets in the brine and refrigerate overnight.

Bring the sugar, vinegar, water and spices to a boil to make the pickling liquid. Let cool. Take the herring filets out of the brine and transfer into the pickling liquid. Cover and pickle for 1 day. Store in the fridge for up to 1 month.

10 Magazine December 2011

Pumpernickel bread

Find it at very good bakeries in Seoul, or use a dark rye bread instead.

Sauce

Sour cream, seasoned with apple juice and finely chopped onions.

Ass e m bly

Add the sour cream sauce onto a layer of pumpernickel bread and then place the pickled herring on top. Optional: decorate with a melon ball, a spoonful of baked apple, cucumber, edible flowers, rosemary, basil and sesame leaves.

Ex pat Ex pertise

Dressing the Part

10 Mag’s Guide to Frocks for the Festive Season Words by Grace Sun Illustrations by Leroy Kucia

G

reetings fashionable Seoulites! It’s almost that time of the year again—the season of office parties and balls, with Xmas and New Years celebrations just around the corner.

The short skirts and strappy stilettos of summer may be over, but it’s no time to let yourself go in an old sweater and Ugg boots quite yet. As every wellversed fashionista knows, now is the time to be hitting those stores for that prefect dress you’ll be wearing to all the parties (you won’t be seeing the same people at all of them anyway!) Here’s 10 Mag’s guide to dressing for any event this festive season.

Cocktail dress The quintessential short number for any occasion, the cocktail dress spans across many genres and styles and is possibly the most versatile of all options. Think Audrey Hepburn, Gossip Girl soirees, and a night at the theatre.

Options and colors are limitless, attitude is paramount.

D r e ss c o d e

Cocktail, smart casual B e st b u ys

H&M, Doota, DKNY, Armani, Bebe (at the new D-Cube Mall) Yo u r m a n

Lounge or business suit, tie optional

18 10 Magazine December 2011

Wrap dress More Kate Middleton than Nicky Minaj, the conservative wrap dress is making a comeback for those in the know.

The ever-stylish, often corporate and sometimes more mature fashionistas know that you can’t go wrong in this classic number.

D r e ss c o d e

Smart casual, business casual B e st b r a n d

Diane von Furstenberg hands down S i m i l a r lo o ks

Zara, Jill Stuart, Kim Young Joo Yo u r a r m ca n dy

Business suit, tie optional

Evening gown Glamorous, stately, and red carpet Oscar-worthy. That says it all. Just remember—swish and attitude.

T h e i n v i t e s ays

Black tie, formal B e st b u ys

Lanvin, Lee Doii, Gee Choon Hee Yo u r m a n

Tux, dinner suit: be Chuck Bass!

Ball gown For those attention seekers that are confident enough to go all the way at the ball, the Cinderella ball gown is a risky but show-stopping option. Just remember to go for simplicity and quality to avoid looking like you got lost on your way to the prom.

Please enquire about our special Christmas and New year menu.

D r e ss c o d e

Black tie, formal W h e r e to b u y

The wedding strip along Ewha Station (line 2, ex. 4) has an affordable selection of wedding and formal ball gowns that can be custom-made or altered to suit your frame.

B e st d e s i g n e r s

Hwang Jae Bock, Andre Kim Yo u r m a n

Full tux, all the way

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Andre Kim 02-540-3001 Armani 02-549-3355 Bebe 02-2211-0144 Diane von Furstenberg 02-310-1560 DKNY 02-6905-3839 Doota 02-3398-3114 Gee Choon Hee 02-548-9026

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film

The Unlikely Survival Story of Korean Cinema Words and shots by Matthew C. Crawford

Korean cinema hasn’t always been as dynamic and acclaimed as it is today. Along the way, Korean filmmakers have had to overcome Japanese colonial oppression, wartime destruction, authoritarian censorship and competition with Hollywood blockbusters.

O

ne of the pleasures of the Busan International Film Festival, Korea’s largest movie event, is the yearly retrospective of an influential figure from the country’s film history. The focus this year was on Kim Ki-duk—no, not the contemporary Kim Ki-duk, who has shocked domestic audiences to the same degree that he has delighted those in Europe, but the Kim Ki-duk of the 1960s, who directed Korea’s first youth film, Barefooted Youth (1964).

The film festival audience watched with fascination and hilarity. The original viewers had been mortally shocked by the scandalous on-screen behavior of Shin Seong-il, the James Dean of Korean cinema and perhaps the most active actor of all time

20 10 Magazine December 2011

having starred in over 500 films. In this film, the scope of his rebellion encompassed wild jazz dance moves, public urination, and the wearing of ridiculously tight jeans.

Barefooted Youth and many other classics of Korean film history have yet to be released on DVD with English subtitles, but that could change soon. With the commercial success of South Korean blockbusters and the growing clout of its directors at international film festivals, the entire history of Korean film is getting more attention. Lost films from the 1930s have been discovered in the Chinese and Russian film archives, while essential classics are being assiduously restored and released on DVD.

A Whirlwind History of Korean Cinema ince 2004, the Korean Film Archive has released an average of four classic Korean films per year. Several of these are from the beginning of Korean cinema history, the 1920s and 30s. This was a period of silent films and heavy censorship by the Japanese colonial administration. Narrators called byeonsa (변사) provided the dialogue to these films. Meanwhile, early female roles were played by gisaeng (기생), traditional Korean courtesans. Almost all the films that were made during this period were melodramas, similar to the dramas that still air on South Korean television today.

The very first film made and screened in Korea, in 1920, was an educational film dealing with a cholera outbreak. Other milestones include the first feature film (1923), the first film made entirely by Koreans (1924), and the first film with sound (1935).

The patriotic film Arirang was also made during this time. Now the site of filming is marked with an imitation hanok under a backdrop of high-rise apartment buildings, not far from Sungshin Women’s University Station in Seoul.

Sadly, most of these early films no longer exist. To date, the earliest feature film that has been discovered is Sweet Dream (1936), about a wife who leaves her husband to live with another man and to enjoy modern forms of rebellion like smoking in bed.

The footage of the streets of Seoul reveal it to have been a sleepy, slow-paced city.

During the lean years of World War II, film industry workers were forced to collaborate with the Japanese: the Korean language was banned from movies, and the only productions were propaganda films. When the Koreans suddenly found their country liberated from Japan, though, Choi In-kyu began work on the film Hurrah! For Freedom (1956), a frenetic, often bizarre portrayal of the Korean resistance movement. Perhaps, like Metropolis, the lost scenes of Hurrah! For Freedom will be found someday.

Up to this point, the history of Korean film is bleak. Filmmaking conditions worsened considerably with the Korean War. This was a time when filmmakers moved to cities like Daegu and Busan, setting up makeshift studios in bathhouses. After the war, however, Korean filmmakers made a fresh start. Members of the film industry congregated first in the coffee shops of Myeongdong, Seoul, then in nearby Chungmuro. Why coffee shops? One of the reasons was because coffee shop clientele were entitled to use the phone. Chungmuro remained the focal point for film production until the 80s, when film companies began shifting to Gangnam.

Ever since liberation, the South Korean market had been overwhelmed with American films, but 1955 was a turning point. This was when Chunhyang Story (dir. Lee Kyu-hwan) became the first huge hit of South Korean cinema, so popular that it practically killed off traditional forms of entertainment. The legendary love story of Chunhyang, the daughter of a gisaeng, and Mongryong, the son of a government official, had a comforting effect on the traumatized cinemagoers of the time. So far the tale has been resurrected in movie form at least 17 times, one notable version being Im Kwan-taek’s pansori rendition of 2000.

With the public fully converted to movie watching, melodramas and comedies began to thrive. Though these black-andwhite films, made for a primarily female audience, unfold a little slowly, many are worth watching for their insights into early modernization and adoption of western trends. Madame Freedom (dir. Han Hyung-mo, 1956) is an urban melodrama that stills seems provocative, while The Wedding Day (dir. Lee Byung-il, 1956) marked the start of the “comedy wave” with a touching

S

10 Magazine December 2011 | 21

Valid through December 31st, 2011

film countryside story.

Another watershed year was 1961, when films like Aimless Bullet (dir. Yu Hyun-mok) and Mother and a Guest (dir. Shin Sang-ok) opened up the “golden period” of South Korean film history in the same year that Park Chung-hee staged his coup d’état. Color films and new genres began popping up, including youth films, historical dramas, action thrillers, and literary films. This was also when Kim Ki-young directed his grotesque signature film The Housemaid (1960) and Lee Man-hee debuted

with The Marines Who Never Returned (1963), possibly the best Korean War movie ever made.

Even during this creative explosion, though, there was heavy regulation and intensifying censorship by the Park Chung-hee government. In the early 70s, when TV dramas began luring audience members away from movie theaters, the film industry began slipping into what film historians call its “dark ages.”

Shoddy films imitating Hong Kong kung-fu flicks grew popular, as did the strange new genre of “hostess films.” One of these

Since 1999 Twenty Before 1999 Peppermint Candy 박하사탕, 1999 서편제, 1993 Korean Films Seopyeonje dir. Lee Chang-dong dir. Im Kwan-taek Not to Miss The Road to Sampo 삼포 가는 길, 1975 Oldboy 올드보이, 2003 1

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2

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If you’ve been wanting to get caught up on Korean cinematic classics, the lists to the right will be a great place to start. These lists draw upon films from before and after 1999, with article author Matthew Crawford selecting older movies and 10 Magazine movie reviewer Paul Matthews choosing the newer ones. 1999 was the watershed year when the thriller Swiri shattered Korean box office records and international cinephiles starting paying closer attention to films on the peninsula.

▲

Seopyeonje

▼

Peppermint Candy

▲

Chil-su and Man-su ▼

Oldboy

Finding Korean Films

22 10 Magazine December 2011

dir. Park Chan-wook

dir. Lee Man-hee

3

The Wedding Day 시집 가는 날, 1956 dir. Lee Byeong-il

3

Aimless Bullet 오발탄, 1961 dir. Yoo Hyeon-mok

Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter... and Spring 봄 여름 가을 겨울 그리고 봄, 2003 dir. Kim Ki-duk

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4

5

Chil-su and Man-su 칠수와 만수, 1988 dir. Park Kwang-su

Nowhere to Hide 인정사정 볼 것 없다, 1999 dir. Lee Myeong-se

5

6

The Power of Gangwon Province 강원도의 힘, 1998 dir. Hong Sang-soo

My Sassy Girl 엽기적인 그녀, 2001 dir. Kwak Jae-yong

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The Housemaid 하녀, 1960 dir. Kim Ki-young

The Foul King 반칙왕, 2001 dir. Kim Ji-woon

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Gagman 개그맨, 1987 dir. Lee Myeong-se

The President’s Last Bang 그때 그사람들, 2005 dir. Im Sang-soo

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Mother and a Guest 사랑방 손님과 어머니, 1961 dir. Shin Sang-ok

The Harmonium in My Memory 내 마음의 풍금, 1999 dir. Lee Young-jae

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Mother 마더, 2009 dir. Bong Joon-ho

10 Green

Fish 초록 물고기, 1997 dir. Lee Chang-dong

▲

The Power of Gangwon Province ▼

10 Old

Partner 워낭소리, 2008 dir. Lee Chung-ryoul

▲

Mother and a Guest

Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter... and Spring

Korean films have several obscure hiding places. Movie rental shops are often the worst place to look, ironically enough. The DVD sections of stores like Seoul Selection and Kyobo Bookstore are better. Online book and movie outlets like yes24.com deliver the goods within a day or two, and sometimes for the price of a roll of kimbab,

▼

My Sassy Girl

▲ ▼

Green Fish

Old Partner

but are often impossible to use without a South Korean national ID. Best of all are branches of the Korean Film Archive (koreafilm.org), with their free film reference libraries. Simply ask for any Korean film that has been released on DVD and then proceed to your semi-private one- or two-person viewing station.

Sangam-dong Branch

Bucheon Branch

Busan Branch

(main branch) Just walk straight for 10 minutes from exit 9 of Digital Media City Stn. (line 6). It’s open from 10 am – 7 pm on weekdays, and until 6 pm on weekends.

South of Seoul, in the Ojeong District Office building, this branch is accessible by bus from several subway stations, including Hwagok Stn. (line 5), exit 7, bus 70.

Same hours as main branch.

At the time of writing the Cinematheque film reference library was being moved from its present location to the second floor of BIFF Hill, in the new Busan Cinema Center near Centum City Stn. If its schedule remains the same it will be open from 11 am - 8 pm, Tuesday to Sunday.

was Yeong-ja’s Heyday (dir. Kim Ho-sun’s, 1975), about a simple woman who migrates to Seoul from the countryside. Her fortunes plunge until she ends up working as a one-armed prostitute.

Another group of curiosities from this era were the “national policy films” that were funded by the government to propagate anti-communist or pro-saemaeul (“new town” building campaign) messages. When attendance was low, the police rounded up citizens and marched them into the theaters.

The South Korean film industry limped bruised and battered into the 80s and the new military government of Chun Doohwan. To pacify the discontented populace, Chun resorted to his “3S policy” of sex, screen, and sports, hence the proliferation of erotic flicks. Then in 1986 protections on the import of foreign films were dropped and the South Korean film industry struggled to compete directly with American films like Fatal Attraction.

This could have easily been curtains for South Korean cinema, but just then various films began winning awards at international film festivals.

The Korean New Wave of this period yielded fine work such as Chil-su and Man-su (dir. Park Kwang-su, 1988) and Gagman (dir. Lee Myung-se, 1988), both starring immensely popular actor An Seong-ki, referred to as “the nation’s actor.” The outstanding actress of this period was Kang Soo-yeon. One of her films, The Road to the Racetrack (dir. Jang Sun-woo, 1991), is of interest to anyone who has suffered a disastrous relationship and also to anyone who wants to explore early 90s Korean eroticism.

After this point, South Korean cinema was no longer merely trying to survive. During the late 90s and 2000s the industry not only recovered, but achieved global prominence. The first modern blockbuster was Im Kwan-taek’s Sopyeonje (1993), which drew two million viewers. The record was broken by Swiri (dir. Kang Je-kyu, 1999), then JSA (Park Chan-wook, 2000), then Friend

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(dir. Kwak Kyung-taek, 2001), then Silmido (dir. Kang Woo-suk, 2003), then Tae Guk Gi: The Brotherhood of War (dir. Kang Jekyu, 2004), then The King and the Clown (2005). But the current box office champion is The Host (dir. Bong Joon-ho, 2006), with over 13 million viewers. It is easy to find and watch these major hits of the 2000s—just visit your nearest DVD bang (private movie viewing room). And for newly released films, you can visit certain CGV and Lotte theaters to see select movies screened with English subtitles.

Now that the Korean film industry is no longer threatened by colonial repression, shortages of expertise and equipment, total war, censorship, or Fatal Attraction, the greatest threat is probably mindless commercialism. And yet contemporary classics like Poetry (dir. Lee Chang-dong, 2010) continue to rise above the commercial froth churned up by the big conglomerates. It’s the perfect time in Korean film history to sit back and enjoy the next box office megahit, the next movie to win an award at Cannes, or the next restored classic.

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Most of the movies mentioned have been released on DVD with English subtitles, though some of them may require some digging to locate.

10 Magazine December 2011 | 23

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korean Destination

: Mokpo City of Lights Wo r ds and sh ots by Emm a D o o l e y

M

okpo is a small city in South Jeolla province on the southwestern tip of Korea. Home to two ferry terminals, the city is usually used only as a jumping-off point for visiting the many islands off the coast. However, simply passing through Mokpo on your way elsewhere means you are missing out on its many charms.

Mokpo advertises itself as “The City of Lights,” and it most definitely lives up to the name with maritime-themed streetlights, an illuminated sea fountain and, best of all, downtown streets festooned with fluorescent archways in all the colors of the rainbow. Mokpo is also home to some legendary rocks: the Gatbawi (갓바위, literally “hat rocks”). The rocks are shaped like two men wearing traditional Korean hats and the story of their appearance goes like this: A fisherman dropped his father’s coffin into the sea. He felt guilty for not taking adequate care of his father during his lifetime and sat on the shore pondering his loss. Eventually he turned into stone, as did his father, who had risen from the sea. It takes a bit of squinting to see the “men,” but with a viewing walkway built out into the sea, the Gatbawi are definitely worth a look.

Just past the Gatbawi is Peace Park, a beautiful walkway along the seafront, where you can see the huge fountain or take a ride in a horse and carriage. This area is also home to a plethora of restaurants, nightclubs and cinemas, so it’s the perfect spot to find your evening entertainment. An alternative nightspot is Rose Street in Hadang, a pedestrian area filled with bars and restaurants. It’s here that you will find Moe’s Bar and Grille, a Western pub which serves free popcorn with every round.

Just before the entrance to Gatbawi Park, you will find Mokpo’s Museum Road. With museums dedicated to maritime history, literature, natural history, ceramics and local history, as well as an Important Intangible Cultural Asset Training Center, there is enough here to satisfy the appetites of even the most voracious culture-hunters.

Mount Yudal is located right in the centre of Mokpo and is perfect for a night hike. It’s an easy trek and the path to the summit is scattered with pagodas and sculptures, all of which are lit beautifully at night making for an atmospheric journey. The view from the top is stunning and if you hike on a clear day they say you can see all the way to Japan.

As Mokpo is located on the coast, there is a vast array of seafood restaurants, many of which allow you to try the local specialty—raw skate. Luckily for the less adventurous souls out there, the usual barbecue joints and kimbap chains are also present in abundance.

The next time you are planning an island-hopping trip, add a night or two in Mokpo; it will most definitely be worth your while.

Among the many islands that lie within a few hours’ ferry ride of Mokpo, two of the most rewarding are Heuksan-do and Hong-do. Keep your eyes peeled for detailed coverage of these islands in an upcoming issue of 10.

10 Tip

24 10 Magazine December 2011

From top The Gatbawi, as seen from the observation platform, Mokpo Harbor, An enchanted carriage at Peace Park, The illuminated street in downtown Mokpo

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Asian Destination

A Temple Tour of Kyoto Wo r ds and sh ots by J i m C h e n e y

F

ar from both the throbbing metropolis of Tokyo and the still-recovering disaster sites of Fukushima and Sentai lies Kyoto, the former imperial capital of Japan. Though it’s a large city in its own right, the city’s charm is not so much modern technology and neon lights, but rather the nearly 2,000 ancient temples and shrines that dot the city.

26 10 Magazine December 2011

Top The Stage at Kiyomizu-Dera Next page top Kinkaku-Ji or Golden Pavilion Next page bottom The entrance to Kiyomizu-Dera

T h e c i ty i n br i e f

Kyoto first came into prominence in 794 when the capital of the Imperial Japanese Court was moved there from nearby Nara.

Over the course of the next thousand years, Kyoto served as the capital of Japan. Thankfully, Kyoto was spared heavy bombing during World War II and was removed from the atomic bomb list due to its cultural importance. As a result, Kyoto is one of the few places in Japan that has pre-World War II buildings in abundance.

Despite not having an airport (the closest one being located 30 minutes away in Osaka), Kyoto is well-connected by highspeed train to most major cities in Japan. Therefore, nearly all visitors to Kyoto arrive at the massive Kyoto Station downtown.

The modern appearance of the train station and the 131-meter-tall Kyoto Tower across the street belie the historical significance and tranquility of the city. As you move away from the station, the modern quickly merges with the ancient, and there seems to be a small temple on nearly every city corner. With so many options for sightseeing, it’s important to narrow your focus so that you don’t miss the best the city has to offer.

Kyoto’s most famous temples One of the first stops on any tour of Kyoto should be the amazing Kinkaku-ji.

Better known as the Golden Pavilion, this popular tourist destination is a Zen Buddhist temple that dates to the 14th century.

It was burned down by a monk in 1950 only to rise from the ashes in 1955. Coated in gold leaf, this magical temple is perhaps most photogenic when ref lected in the pond that faces it.

Located a short walk from the Golden Pavilion is Ryoan-ji, which features one of the best Zen gardens in all of Japan.

If you’ve only ever seen a Zen garden in miniature or on television, seeing one in person is something else altogether. The garden is designed with 15 large rocks scattered in a rectangle of white gravel.

It’s said that if you can see all 15 rocks at the same time you will achieve enlightenment. Whether you reach nirvana or not, it’s an impressive place to sit for a few quiet moments of rest in your busy day of sight-seeing.

Another top tourist draw is the centrally located Kiyomizu-dera, a Buddhist temple dating from the 8th century. The most impressive feature at this temple is the stage that stands 13 meters off the ground.

It used to be said that anyone who survived a jump from the ledge would be granted a wish, but jumping is no longer allowed.

Instead, you can make a wish as you drink from the temple’s triple fountain.

T r av e l e r ’ s T i p

Make sure to arrive as soon as it opens at 9 am to beat the onslaught of tour buses.

T r av e l e r ’ s T i p

Take the time to see the other buildings around the grounds as well: a peaceful pavilion in the middle of the pond is a highlight.

T r av e l e r ’ s T i p

The walk up to Kiyomizu-Dera is steep and lined with souvenir shops. This is a good place to look for personal mementos or gifts for loved ones.

Asian Destination

1 1 Todaiji in Nara 2 Torii Gates at Fushimi Inari Shrine Horizontal 3 Torii Gate at Fushimi Inari Shrine 4 Getting Close to the Monkeys at Iwatayama Monkey Park 5 Tame Deer in Nara Park.

2

Going off the beaten path

T r av e l e r ’ s T i p

Don’t turn back till you reach the end of the trail, which affords fantastic views of Kyoto and the surrounding hills.

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Don’t be fooled: not all of Kyoto’s best sites are on the standard tourist trail. In fact, two absolutely essential temples aren’t included on most tourists’ itineraries: Fushimi Inari Shrine and Sanjusangen-do.

Located a ten-minute train ride out of Kyoto, Fushimi Inari Shrine is a glaring omission from the suggested itineraries in many travel guides. Taking up one entire side of Mt. Inari, this Shinto shrine is dedicated to Inari, a fox-shaped god who is depicted numerous times in the shrine.

Hiking up the mountain, 3 visitors walk under a canopy of thousands of bright orange torii (traditional Japanese gates). Periodically, the path will open up into a small

10 Magazine December 2011

clearing, filled with mini-shrines, each with their own small torii. Hiking to the end of the trail would only take about 30-45 minutes going non-stop, but you’ll likely find yourself pausing frequently to take in the wonder of the small shrines covering the mountainside.

Once you ar rive back in downtown Kyoto, another fantastic temple to visit is Sanjusangen-do. Consisting of a single, 120-meter long building, it may not seem like much from the outside; however, prepare to be awestruck once you venture inside. Sur rounding a giant statue in the middle are 1,000 life-sized Kannon figures. Made of Japanese cypress, these statues were all carved over 800 years ago.

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T r av e l e r ’ s T i p

Pictures are not allowed inside the main hall, but something this impressive will stay with you for a long time. Or you could just buy a postcard from the gift shop.

Day trips for a change of pace If you need a break from all the temples, take a quick trip nor th of the city to Arashiyama where you can visit one of Japan’s most unique attractions: the Iwatayama Monkey Park. Situated on a forested hill on the edges of Arashiyama, the park gives you the opportunity to feed some of the 170 Japanese macaques housed inside a wired enclosure. After you’ve given the monkeys some treats, you can step into the enclosure and walk around with them. The town of Arashiyama is a nice half-day escape from the crowds of Kyoto and it is even possible to take a small boat back into the city.

If you have extra time to spare and are looking to get out of Kyoto for a day, the town of Nara is another fantastic option.

Less than an hour train ride away, Nara was Kyoto’s predecessor as the capital of Japan. The highlights of Nara are mostly found in the unimaginatively named Nara Park, a beautifully landscaped area full of tame deer that will let you pet and feed them.

5 T r av e l e r ’ s T i p

While the monkeys here are accustomed to humans, they are still wild, so pay careful heed to the posted warnings.

T r av e l e r ’ s T i p

While in Nara, check out Todaiji, which features the largest Buddha statue in Japan, housed in what is said to be the largest wooden building in the world.

6

Though only three hours from Tokyo by highspeed train, Kyoto has more than enough to keep you enthralled for days. For an unforgettable encounter with Japan’s rich historical and cultural legacy, a visit to Kyoto is a must.

10 Magazine December 2011 | 29

‘Tis the Season to Enjoy Wine Sure, we’re not in Napa or Burgundy, but with a little knowledge and perseverance you can still enjoy your vino here as much as any other place in the world.

Words by Dan Schulte CEO Pieroth Wines Korea

30 10 Magazine December 2011

A

s someone who has spent many years in the wine business and even more in Korea, I’ve seen a noticeable change in the drinking habits of Koreans. Long-term expats (and some short-termers with older bosses) will all remember the required hoesik (회식, night out with the coworkers) back then. You headed out with your colleagues and boss for some good food and you’d have some soju or beer with some subtle—or not so subtle—encouragement from your seniors and the boss. As the night progressed, the drinks got stronger and your inhibitions declined until you were drinking shots of cheap whiskey and whatever else was put in front of you. Then the next day you woke with a hangover so bad even blinking hurt.

Not surprisingly perhaps, the younger generation seems to be looking for alternatives to those nights. Wine offers the perfect alternative with its lower alcohol content and a taste that is best appreciated slowly, rather than poured into a shot glass and consumed in one gulp. This explains how the majority of wine growth is being led by the under-forty generation and by women.

Unlike many other countries that have been importing wines for

Table 34, located on the 34th floor of the Grand InterContinental Seoul Parnas, features 34 kinds of house wines and has 34 tables.

much longer, Korea’s wine market has only been open since 1987, so Koreans have had access to this elixir for less than a generation. Being an acquired taste, like most alcohol, for many years after 1987 wine was still only enjoyed by a fraction of the population and therefore importing it was expensive and sales were minuscule. This kept wine well out of reach of the average person, and most of the products labeled “wine” in Korea had more sugar and corn syrup than tannins, leaving few understanding what real wine actually tasted like.

Then came the change. Spurred by a near national fervor kicked off by a Korean TV show about the health benefits of wine in 2000, wine became synonymous with health and “well-being” in Korea. Soon the wine importers could sell at lower margins as they were selling much larger quantities. The change sped up even more with the free trade agreement with Chili signed in 2003, which brought quality wine prices down even more.

What are those health benefits? We have probably all heard at one point or another that one glass of wine a day (up to two for men) is good for you. But how and why? Well, the first reason is simply because of the alcohol. It’s widely accepted now that small amounts of alcohol taken regularly will raise your HDL cholesterol (the good kind). This benefit comes from beer and anything else with alcohol in it. Wine however, contains resveratrol and phytochemicals known as flavonoids. These act as antioxidants and can reduce the risk of heart disease and cancer. Red wine in particular has much larger amounts of resveratrol than white, 10 Magazine December 2011 | 31

since these antioxidants are in the skins and red wine stays in contact with the skins longer than white wine.

Suffice it to say that the number of licensed importers has grown from 12 to almost 350, with double digit growth almost every year. Economies of scale and competition have brought wine prices down to numbers where many more can enjoy wine, although they’re still much higher than prices for the rest of the planet.

To this day, one of the most common questions I get from newcomers is, “Why are wines so expensive in Korea?” Most simply can’t believe the outrageous prices being asked for what would be inexpensive wines “back home,” such as Yellow Tail, Jacob’s Creek or even Moet Chandon.

The average retail price of a wine is still around W15,000, which is about three times the world average. So what’s the recipe that turns a reasonably priced product in the rest of the world into an expensive luxury product in Korea? There are many factors that come into play. You have to start with your basic ingredients: high import taxes, shipping costs and insurance. Then add several servings of “extra fees” required by the government such as quarantine costs, Korean back-label printing and labor costs. Mix well, then add in a heaping portion of high-bonded

warehouse storage fees while the wines go through this process.

Bake for several days and then top it all off with fat margins most retail chains add on to the wholesale prices, which often multiply the price by 2 or 3 (at some upscale restaurants by 5 or 6!). A wine costing just 1 euro will often end up selling on supermarket shelves for W12,000 or more. Korea still charges taxes based on the invoice value of the wines, rather than by volume like many other countries, thus further increasing the export prices, and hence the taxes they charge.

Also, anyone who has spent any time in Korea can tell you the importance of gift giving and packaging in Korea. Being able to present a nice gift to someone, or showing you are able to pay for such items is extremely important both to the young and older generation, not just in Korea but across Asia. Wine is still very much regarded as a luxury product here, thanks to those high prices and the added cost of fancy packaging. The expenses that go into wine importing require that prices remain high, thereby ensuring that wine maintains its position as a luxury good— which ironically keeps demand high even at exorbitant prices. In a word, it’s the variety of import costs along with a strong customer base willing to pay high prices that make wine in Korea more expensive than almost any other market in Asia.

Dan Schulte Debunks Common Wine Myths 1 By smelling the cork, you can tell if a wine is good or not.

The only thing a cork will smell like, is, well, cork! Instead, check to see if the cork is cracked, broken, or moldy, which could mean that oxygen has reached the wine. That in itself doesn’t mean the wine is bad, but it means you should check the smell and taste thoroughly before the waiter turns to leave. Don’t be intimidated by a sommelier who confidently smells the cork and then hands it to you. Simply check the quality and put it back on the table if it is in good condition.

2 All wines get better with age.

All wines have a life cycle and the length of that cycle depends on the way the wine was made, what grapes were used, and a number of other factors. Approximately 98% of all wines sold in the world are designed to be

32 10 Magazine December 2011

drunk in the first two years. So how do you know if your wine has aged long enough? Well, the easiest way is to simply open it and give it a taste test. If the wine was very expensive, you can also find tasting notes for it online that will give details on how long it should properly be aged.

3 An open bottle of wine is never as good the next day.

A freshly opened bottle typically can last more than three days, and can sometimes even get better as time goes by. Typically, a wine that is heavier in sugars and or tannins will last longer than lighter wines. The best way to preserve a wine is to simply put it in the refrigerator, whether it is red or white, as refrigerating wines can increase their life by between 4 and 10 times.

Just take the reds out an hour or so before drinking.

4 Uncorking a bottle for a few hours before drinking to “let it breathe” will improve the wine.

Cover yourself with a blanket and then stick your finger out of the blanket to cool off. Didn’t accomplish much, did you? It’s the same with wine. The area exposed to the air is about the size of a dime, which isn’t nearly enough to make a difference unless you leave it out for several days. So if you really want it to breathe, try a decanter, or at least pour some into a glass so the remaining amount in the bottle has a larger exposed surface area.

5 You need a different wine glass for different types of wine (Burgundy, Bourdeaux, etc.).

The standard wine glass, about 21.5 cl in size, gives you the best combination of width and height for maximizing bouquet and taste. In general, as long as the glass is taller than it is wide, whatever you choose to serve your wine in will be fine.

6 You need a wine cellar to keep the wines from spoiling.

The only thing you need to be careful of is not to store the wines near sunlight, or any heat source. In particular keep wines away from a heat source that varies greatly, such as next to the refrigerator, which constantly varies as the motor turns on and off.

7 Wine doesn’t go with Korean food.

The same pairing guidelines apply to Korean foods as to other cuisines: • Spicy foods go with sweeter wines such as Riesling or Moscato. A lighter, more fruity red (such as Pinot Noir) can also be a nice match.

• Oily foods go with wines that have higher levels of acidity, such as Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc.

• Red meats tend to go better with red wine.

Guidelines are just that: guides.

Sometimes it’s good to get off the guided tour and try finding your own way. Experiment and see what works for you.

Table 34

The Bargain Hunter’s Guide to Enjoying Wine in Korea 1 We’ll start off with a no-brainer. The big box stores (Costco, Emart, Homeplus, etc.) are your ticket to the best deals on good wines at reasonable prices. Out of these, Costco overall has the “fairest” deals, as they follow a strict policy of keeping the margins limited to 12%. Other supermarkets often go as high as 50%.

2 Drinking just about anywhere is legal here, so grab a blanket, pick up some nice brie, crackers, a little fruit and a bottle of Cab Sav, and then visit the Han River Park, the beach or a nice local park to watch the sunset. It’s the perfect pre-dinner appetizer and the whole thing could run you under 20k.

3 Though hotels and very high-end restaurants charge for corkage, many other Korean restaurants don’t. Try picking up a good bottle somewhere and taking it to your favorite Korean BBQ place: they probably won’t charge you. Don’t forget your bottle opener and check to make sure it’s okay first.

4 High Street Market in Itaewon is home to a reasonably priced wine corner in the back (supplied by Pieroth Wine Importers, the company run by this article’s author). There’s a nice selection at reasonable prices and all, but look under the shelves for the best deal; the damaged label bins. There you’ll find wines with discounts of 50% with W9,900 and W19,900 baskets. If you can tolerate a scratched label, you’ll get a great bargain.

5 For some reason, the Chilean wine Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon is the most popular wine in Korea. Being that it’s on almost every wine list, pay attention to its price and you can use it as a barometer of how expensive the markup is at the wine bar or restaurant you’re visiting. W30,000 per bottle means you’re in for a deal; W80,000 per bottle means high tail it out of there unless you’ve got money to burn.

6 Try some unique origins for good deals. South African wines are often excellent value for money thanks to their relatively unknown status in Korea, but have excellent quality-to-price ratios.

7 Found a wine you absolutely love? Turn it around and read the label. Every single wine has a Korean label with information on the importer, and some of them (including Pieroth ) will actually sell to you at wholesale prices. If you really want a deal and are happy to order by the case, Google (or Naver) the importer and contact them directly.

10 Magazine December 2011 | 33

E dited by DAVI D CA R RUTH and j i s u n m o o n

Beautify Your Mind This Winter Spanish Music, Wine, and Canapés

Hotel Inter-Burgo Daegu If you are looking for something special this December, head to the Hotel Inter-Burgo Daegu to indulge in carefully selected Spanish wines along with live music. Every Saturday, you can also nibble on delicious snacks from the canapé buffet along with your wine. Music performances are scheduled at 8:30, 9:30 and 10:30 pm. W25,000. ibhotel.com 053-602-7231

Imperial Palace Seoul Get away from the bustling city with the Imperial Palace Seoul’s Beautiful Mind Winter Package. Guests are provided with coffee beans and a mug set from the Beautiful Store, a non-profit organization that supports the less fortunate. The deluxe room package (W220,000++ W280,000++) includes breakfast for two at Cafe Amiga, and a corner suite or duplex suite (W450,000++) gets you full access to Club Imperial, breakfast at Club Imperial and a winter dinner set for two at Verona. imperialpalace.co.kr 02-3440-8000

Go Camping in the City

Sheraton Grande Walkerhill The Sheraton Grande Walkerhill has planned a Camping in the City promotion for those who need a quick getaway from city life. Families and couples can enjoy a luxury campsite overlooking the Han River and Acha Mountain, with packaged food ready to be grilled with quality camping utensils. The price varies with the food set choices and ranges from W70,000 to W100,000 per person (minimum of 2). Available during lunch (11 am - 3 pm) & dinner (5 - 10 pm) on weekends and dinner only on weekdays. After the meal, try mini golf or board games at the campsite. walkerhill.com 02-455-5000

Your Best Chance for a White Christmas

Novotel Daegu City Center The Novotel Daegu City Center is featuring a special Winter Package through the 28th of February. Indulge in your romantic dreams with the Be White Package. The package includes one night in a Superior Room with free wired internet connection, access to the fitness center and 50% off on the sauna. It also offers discount benefits on one bottle of wine with French homemade cake and travel kit. The price starts at W166,000+ and may change due to daily occupancy.

RSVP at 053-664-1111 or reservation@novoteldaegu.com. novoteldaegu.com

34 | 10 Magazine December 2011

Making a Gingerbread House Is a Piece of Cake JW Marriott Hotel Seoul The JW Marriott Seoul is holding gingerbread house cooking classes for children taught by a professional pastry chef on the two Saturdays before Christmas, December 10th and 17th. The two-hour gingerbread house classes start at 11:30 am and are priced at W80,000++ per team. Cookies and soft drinks are provided for energy during the construction phase. Call 02-6282-6738 for early registration. marriott.com

Sweet Chocolate for Your Sweet Tooth

Grand InterContinental Seoul Parnas The Sweet on Chocolate package, available from December 2nd through March 2nd, is designed with chocolate lovers in mind. Every guest will be given wonderful chocolate gifts prepared by the Grand Kitchen Deli along with 2 coupons for hot chocolate. The package also includes accommodation at the Grand InterContinental Seoul Parnas along with access to the indoor pool, fitness club, sauna, and golf practice center. W260,000++ - W300,000++. Additional W50,000 applies for December 23rd, 24th, 30th and 31st. seoul.intercontinental.com 02-559-7777

Stay Warm This Winter at the Oakwood Oakwood Premier Coex Center Seoul From December 1st through February 29th, the Oakwood Premier Coex Center offers a Winter Package for those who wish to stay warm with families or friends. This package includes one-night’s stay, breakfast for two, and use of the fitness center, indoor swimming pool, sauna and indoor golf range. Guests can also rent 2 DVD movies at the business center located on the 5th floor. The package rate ranges from W270,000++ to W340,000++. oakwoodseoul.com 02-3466-7000

+ = subject to 10% VAT, ++ = subject to 10% VAT and 10% service charge

Winter Package Is Your Winter Getaway

Renaissance Seoul Hotel The Renaissance Seoul Hotel is offering three different Winter Packages for those wanting to spend a warm, relaxing time during the coldest season, available from December 1st through February 29th (excluding December 23rd and 24th). All packages include free in-room internet service, use of the indoor swimming pool and rec center, and 50% discount on sauna as general benefits.

Winter Saving Package: W169,000++, Winter Family Package: W210,000++, Suite Holiday Package: W309,000++. renaissanceseoul.com 02-2222-8500

A Delicious Dinner Is Park Café’s Gift to You

Marriott Executive Apartment Enjoy a Christmas dinner with your loved ones and leave the tedious details to Park Café.

The restaurant has the perfect Christmas spread with two set menus. The first of seven courses is a selection of Aqua Panna or S. Pellegrino sparkling water. The culinary courses in Menu A (W98,000++) are foie gras and char-grilled Australian Wagyu ribeye steak, while Menu B (W120,000++) includes mero steak and char-grilled Australian Wagyu beef tenderloin. Both finish with specially selected desserts. measeoul.com 02-2090-8050

Dish of the Year for December

Courtyard by Marriott Back by popular demand! The special menu lists the top three items from the top four selling specials. Spicy stir-fried jjamppong and chicken yaki fried udon are the winning noodle entrees.

Among the healthy namul (seasonal herb and flower) entrees are sirloin steak, salmon steak, and lamb, all served with fried namul. The crowd-pleasing Cucina Italiana entrees are bacon cream spaghetti, ink risotto, and cream-sauce pizza. The Chi Power Lunch rounds out the top four specials with nutrient-rich Korean meals that improve physical and cognitive powers. Available between 11:30 am - 2:30 pm.

W29,000++. courtyardseoul.com 02-2638-3081

Expat News December 2011

Citi Card Premium Dining Offers 10% Discount at Between

Citibank Korea is offering its card customers a 10% Premium Dining discount at Itaewon restaurant Between, valid through next November 1st. Launched last year as an Italian dining lounge and restaurant, Between has become an Itaewon landmark. The restaurant features contemporary Italian cuisine designed by a Michelin 3-star Italian chef.

This past November, Between released new main dishes including various pastas rarely found at other restaurants and desserts prepared by professional pâtissiers. Moreover, Between offers a wine and cocktail of the month as a recommendation for customers interested in even more new gastronomic experiences. Contact Between at 02-795-6164 for more details. citibank.co.kr

Newfoundlander Active in Cleaning Up Korea’s Mountains The Korea Mountain Preservation League (KMPL) will continue to clean mountains, says Shawn Morrissey, President of the KMPL. Morrissey, a scrawny and bearded Newfoundlander who has lived in Korea for ten years, started the KMPL in 2005.

Since then, they have collected over 5,000 liters of garbage from Bukhansan and other national parks.

“Infield the KMPL is often applauded, with most people stopping to thank us,” Morrissey says. “One older ranger once said to me, ‘You are showing what a national park truly means.’” Currently, the group is focusing on further clean-ups, work with middle and high school students, and pressure campaigns to get garbage bins on Bukhansan. kmpl.org 36 | 10 Magazine December 2011

AustCham Business Awards Celebrate Australia-Korea Relationship

On November 11th, the Australian Chamber of Commerce in Korea (AustCham) held its second annual Business Awards gala dinner, drawing over 260 VIPS to the Grand Hyatt Hotel in Seoul.

In his welcoming remarks, Australian Ambassador H.E. Sam G e rovic h tou c he d up o n the strong economic relationship between Australia and Korea.

Awards were presented to Samsung C&T, KEPCO, and the Galleries Association of Korea for contributing to this relationship.

In addition to the announcement of the prize winners, guests at the black-tie event also enjoyed a fashion show put on by BeMode (BORA) and a four-course menu with Korean touches accompanied by fine Australian wines.

IAK Gets New Chairman, Finds New Ways to Promote Activities Conor O’Reilly, new chairman of the Irish Association of Korea (IAK ), is ready to use social networks as a way of reaching out to expats across Korea.

IAK not only has a website (iak.co.kr) but can now be followed on Twitter (@ IrishinKorea), Meetup.com (Irish Association of Korea) and Facebook (Irish Association of Korea). Conor and the other new members of the IAK team are

already planning the next year’s schedule.

The most anticipated event will of course be the St. Patricks Day Festival, held each March. Expats staying in Korea for the Christmas holidays are encouraged to join IAK at their annual Christma s pa r t y, held at the Wolf hound Pub in Itaewon on December 17th at 7 pm.

Hotels.com Launches New Rewards Program for Members For cost-conscious travelers, one of the biggest concerns is finding decent accommodations that won’t put a dent in the wallet. But what if you could get a free night’s stay for every 10 nights spent at a hotel? That’s exactly what the latest promotion at Hotels. com entails. With the new Welcome Rewards program, website members who spend 10 nights at hotels booked through the website get the 11th night free. Points accrue for three years and the free night can be used at one of 65,000 hotels throughout the world.

Credit for the 11th night is equal to the average of the costs of the 10 previous nights, and does not include tax or service charge. Hotels.com

Edited by Dav i d Ca rru t h

New Lingerie Shop Caters to Female Expats Foreign women who have had trouble shopping for lingerie in Korea will want to visit Audace Lingerie, which opened recently near Gangnam Station.

The brainchild of Frenchwoman Gina François, Audace aims to provide affordable, high-quality lingerie to expats as well as Korean women.

Gina, who formerly ran a lingerie shop in London, emphasizes the importance of wearing underwear in the right size. A correctly fitted bra, she points out, can transform a woman’s silhouette and increase her confidence. For an appointment, contact Gina at 010-5009-5940.

Seven Luck Casino in Busan Newly Renovated The coastal city of Busan is most famous for its gorgeous (and crowded) beaches and yearly film festival, but there’s room for games of chance as well. And there’s never been a better time for a bit of gambling with recent enhancements at the Seven Luck Casino (Busan Lotte) located right in the middle of the action. The snazzy new décor is inspired by the ocean, the camellia flower, and seagulls, all symbols of Busan. It’s the perfect environment for some high stakes (or low risk) fun, and visitors can choose from games including roulette, black jack, baccarat, poker, and the slots.

7luck.com

Newcomer While French chef Frederic Nef may not exactly be a newcomer in Korea, he is a new addition to the staff of the Renaissance Seoul Hotel. This past October, he assumed his role as director of food and beverages at this Gangnam hotel. Prior to his position at the Renaissance, Mr. Nef had worked as the Executive Chef for the JW Marriott Seoul. But his experience goes much further back than that: since he began his culinary journey in 1981, he has worked at hotels in England, Russia, Morocco, Turkey, to name just a few countries. In addition to his current responsibilities at the Renaissance, Nef looks forward to exploring the food and traditional way of life of Jeju Island.

10 Magazine December 2011 | 37

Gastronomic News Edited by K you ng - h ee Li m and Dav i d Ca rru t h

December 2011

“Slow Sundays” Two Gringos in Ilsan Inspired at the Banyan Tree to Start a Burrito Business Reinvent Brunch It all began when Mike and Mark, two expats teaching English in Ilsan, headed to a well-reviewed Mexican restaurant in Itaewon. The quality was disappointing, and the price outrageous. “We could do better than this,” said Mike.

And they did. Since that fateful evening last March, the two friends have been making, shipping, and selling frozen burritos all over Korea to provide hungry customers with an easy and delicious solution to the munchies. Calling themselves Gringos Burritos, their offerings include four kinds of burritos (chicken, veggie, bacon breakfast, and chorizo breakfast) and various sides (bean n’ cheese dip and fresh salsa). Get a six pack for W30,000 or a twelve pack for W55,000, not including shipping. gringoskorea.yolasite.com 010-2088-6336

New Itaewon Venue to Combine Dinner, Drink, and Dance

A mock toothpaste tube filled with cream cheese and test tubes frothing over with a beet juice concoction—it’s not your typical brunch.

But these experimental treats are just one way that the Slow Sundays br unch depar ts from the nor m.

Slow Sundays are held from 11:30 am to 3:30 pm each week at Festa Bistro, a restaurant at the Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul. Instead of making repeated trips to a pickedover buf fet, at Festa, your food comes to you. Guests drool over the exquisitely prepared and decorated six-course meal, which consists of welcome drinks, pastries, appetizers, main dish, dessert, and coffee or tea. And adding to the innovative experience, a live band or DJ provides some background tunes.

Brunch is W45,000 (not including 10% ta x), and guests can have unlimited sparkling or still wine for an additional W25,000. banyantree.com 02-2250-8170

Expand Your Beer Mug Collection with Suntory S t a r b u c ks i s a l r e a d y u s i n g i t s Christmas cups, and Haribo’s gold bears are on display in their Weichnachten (Christmas) packaging.

So what’s there for beer lovers?

Japanese beer Suntory the Premium Malt’s has just launched a 3+1 package which gets you three 350ml cans of beer along with an elegantly designed Suntory glass.

This is definitely the ideal glass in which to enjoy Suntory’s foam, color, rich bouquet, and dry finish.

Find the package at E-mart and Lotte Mart. 080-022-3277

Are You Experienced Ballantine’s Style?

— For most, a night out involves moving from place to place between dinner, drinks, and dancing. But a new project planned by MYK, Inc. (operators of B One and Between) aims to change that. The company recently announced the development of District, a massive new entertainment complex in the heart of Itaewon, one of Seoul’s most diverse neighborhoods for dining.

Located in the building that formerly housed the Hamilton Hotel buffet and banquet halls, the complex will be one of the largest such establishments in the city.

District’s concept is to combine the comfort of a classic ale house, the sophistication of a luxury lounge, and the controlled chaos of a state-of-the-art nightclub into three separate venues all under one roof, and all operating seven days a week. Construction has already begun and District is expected to open during the peak holiday rush. districtitaewon.com 02-749-3248 38 | 10 Magazine December 2011

World-renowned Scotch whisky Ballantine’s, which prides itself on 200 years of history, has just launched the Ballantine’s Experience program.

Held at Club Mow, a luxurious private lounge in Sinsa-dong, the program a llows you to t a ste 17-, 21-, a nd 30-year-old whiskies as well as rare liquors that are not normally available in Korea. In addition, savory Scottish dishes will be served. The highlight of this program is that whisky experts will be there to guide your adventurous tasting experience. This is a chance for whisky aficionados to mingle and get better acquainted with this unforgettable drink. 02-3466-5700

What’s New

in the Itaewon Food Scene Wo r d s b y D a v i d C a r r u t h , s h o t s b y K a t h y L i m

Turn to 10 for the newest restaurants opening up in Seoul’s Itaewon district.

Maloney’s Pub & Grill

Burgers and sandwiches

No, this isn’t the Maloney’s Pub that you see on the left as you go up Gyeongnidan—this larger operation, unaffiliated with the original, is located further up on the right where Siberia Grill used to be. Wash your dinner down with one of the six beers on tap.

Recommended: burgers 2F, 225-67 Itaewon 2-dong.

02-3785-1670

The Rose & Crown

English pub

A taste of merry old England—including London Pride ale—can be had in the alley with Chili King, Bless U, and OKitchen. The owner, who also runs Baby Guinness just one alley over, has given the second floor a pub vibe and set up the third floor like a restaurant.

Recommended: fish and chips 2F/3F #23 118 Itaewon-dong 02-794-2555

Vatos Urban Tacos

Mexican

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This is not your run-of-the-mill Mexican food. Drawing on West Coast fusion trends, the owners at Vatos offer original dining options such as galbi tacos and kimchi carnitas fries and equally creative drinks such as Mexican martinis and makeolitas (margaritas + makgeolli). If you’re looking for a place to host a party, the snazzy and spacious rooftop will do the trick.

Recommended: fiesta eggrolls 2F, 66-8 Itaewon-dong vatoskorea.com 02-797-8226

Ristorante Kra ze Seoul

Italian

That name sound familiar? The people behind Kraze Burger are now extending the name to a chain of Italian restaurants. This is no fast food, though, but fine dining, complete with a professional chef. Even the environment is classy as it’s located at the Blue Square Culture Center newly opened near Hangangjin Station.

5SXW 4W` Recommended: tenderloin or sirloin steak 2F, 727-56 Hannam-dong.

02-6399-7601 a` Da

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10 Magazine December 2011 | 39

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Archangel Michael: And No Message Could Have Been Any Clearer

David LaChapelle Photography Exhibit Through February 26th

For more information, see page 49

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Punch

완득이

Directed by Lee Han

Movies

by Pa u l M at t he w s

Based on the novel by Kim Ryeo-ryeong, this rough and tumble family drama charts the life of young Wan-deuk (Yu Aine) as he struggles in school and at home trying to come to terms with his situation. With a hunchbacked-tap-dancing clown for a father and constant punishment from his home room teacher, Dong-ju (Kim Yoon-seok), it seems as if there is no hope. Then one day he discovers that his mother (Jasmine Lee), who he thought was dead, is in fact alive and well and from the Philippines.

In the wrong hands this heart warming film of teenage troubles and family issues could have become mawkish and over-wrought, but director Lee Han manages to depict the trials and tribulations of the young Wan-deuk with an admirable light touch, bringing a certain beauty to the crumbling neighbourhoods and markets he shows on screen. Kim Yoon-seok and Yu Aine deserve praise as the long suffering teacher and his unruly pupil, but much credit should be given to Jessica Lee for a deeply moving portrayal of Wandeuk’s estranged mother as she tries her best to re-enter his world. This really is a must see family drama that will have you laughing, crying and re-evaluating your relationships with your own family.

Real Steel

Directed by Shawn Levy After being subjected to the horrors of Transformers: Dark of the Moon this summer, it’s a pleasant relief to have Real Steel hitting our screens. Starring Hugh Jackman as ex-boxer Charlie Kenton, this science fiction sports drama takes us into the world 42 | 10 Magazine December 2011

of robot boxing, where Charlie is on a losing streak and seems to be destined for failure until his long lost son Max (Dakota Goyo) turns up and their fortunes take a turn for the better thanks to a junkyard robot named Atom.

The story follows the well worn path of many sports dramas and if you’ve seen previous boxing epics, then you’ll probably have a good idea how things may end up. However, Real Steel is a solid family film that will keep both adults and children entertained. The robots are superbly digitally animated and director Shawn Levy keeps the film on track, setting a good pace and giving the right mix of family drama with robot on robot action.

This is everything that the Transformers franchise should have been and it’s good to know that finally Hollywood has given us a decent robot movie this year.

In Time

Directed by Andrew Niccol In the wake of Occupy Wall Street and other protests around the world, this science fiction thriller plays out as a timely political allegory. In a world where everyone stops aging at 25 and then has to earn more time to keep on living, Will Salas (Justin Timberlake) wakes up each morning with very few hours left on his clock and always feels as if he’s running out of time. When a stranger gives him a hundred years to play with and then commits suicide, Will goes on the run from the Timekeepers and ends up discovering some nasty secrets.

Timberlake shines in In Time, proving his worth as a lead actor, bringing great charisma to the role while Cillian Murphy also deserves mention as the grizzled head of the Timekeepers. The premise of the film works well but it loses its way at points, never quite fulfilling its potential, though the action sequences are taut and Roger Deakin’s cinematography brings a glowing gloom to the proceedings. In Time never manages to reach the heights of director Andrew Niccol’s first film, Gattaca, but it’s worth a couple of hours of your time and fans of Justin Timberlake will be very happy with his performance.

NATIONWIDE CALENDAR New This Month Paranormal Activity 2: Tokyo Night Japan. Horror.

Aoi Nakamura, Noriko Aoyama; dir. Toshikazu Nagae.

December 1st

White Jungle 하얀정글 Korea. Documentary. Lee Ok, Kim Yong-kyu; dir. Song Yoon-hee.

Dates are subject to change.

Alvin and the Chipmunks: Chip-Wrecked USA. Animation/Comedy/Family. Matthew Gray Gubler, Jesse McCartney; dir.

Mike Mitchell.

December 15th

December 1st

NATIONWIDE

The Twilight Saga: Breaking Dawn Part 1 USA. Fantasy/ Romance/Drama/Thriller. Kristen Stewart; dir. Bill Condon.

Mission Impossible: Ghost Protocol USA. Action. Tom Cruise, Jeremy Renner; dir. Brad Bird.

December 15th

December 1st

Le Havre France/ Finland/Germany. Comedy/Drama.

Andre Wilms; dir. Aki Kaurismaki.

Friends: Naki on the Monster Island Japan. Animation/ Adventure. Shingo Katori; dir. Takashi Yamazaki, Ryuichi Yagi.

December 29th

December 8th

Loft Netherlands.

Thriller. Anna Drijver, Fedja Van Huet; dir. Antoinette Beumer.

Diary of a Nymphomaniac Spain. Drama. Belen Fabra, Leonardo Sbaraglia; dir. Christian Molina.

December 29th

December 8th

The Final Blow 결정적 한방 Korea. Drama/Comedy. Yu Dong-geun, Yu Jin-seo; dir. Park Jung-gu.

December 8th

Blitz UK. Action/Thriller.

Jason Statham, Paddy Considine; dir. Elliott Lester.

December 8th

Sherlock Holmes: A Game of Shadows USA. Action/Adventure.

Robert Downey Jr., Jude Law; dir. Guy Ritchie.

TBA

My Way Korea/USA. Drama. Jang Dong-gun, Joe Odagiri, Fan BingBing; dir. Kang Jae-gyu.

TBA

Eerie Romance 오싹한 연애 Korea.

Romance/Horror/Comedy. Son Ye-jin, Lee Min-gi; dir. Hwang In-ho.

TBA

The Adventures of Tintin USA/New Zealand. Adventure.

Daniel Craig, Jamie Bell; dir. Steven Spielberg.

December 8th

Puss in Boots USA. Animation/ Adventure/Comedy/Fantasy. Voice over by Antonio Banderas, Salma Hayek; dir. Chris Miller.

TBA

Television

by S oy eon K im b erly Yoon

King Sejong and Hangul Feature in Drama Rooted in Korean History The spotlight is on Tree with Deep Roots (뿌리깊은 나무), a novel by Lee Jeong-myeong that has been turned into a popular historical drama.

Tree with Deep Roots highlights serial killings during the reign of King Sejong (Han Seok-gyu), who was then working toward his greatest invention—Hangul, the Korean alphabet. Kang Chae-yun (Jang Hyeok), who takes charge of investigating the murder cases during the seven days before the announcement of Hangul, finds himself getting closer to the truth as he uncovers a shocking political conspiracy.

Tree with Deep Roots is based on a novel of the same name written by Lee Jeongmyeong, a popular writer of historical mysteries. Lee is particularly known for his bestselling novel Painter of the Wind,

which was also turned into an acclaimed Korean sageuk (사극, historical drama) in 2008. Fans of Lee Jeong-myeong’s novel are already fiercely debating how the overall story and characters in the drama differ from the original. Despite clear discrepancies and additions made for dramatic effect, critics have applauded the show for its choreography and talented cast. Such acknowledgement is currently being shown numerically as the show has scored the top rating among Wednesday/Thursday dramas.

Tree with Deep Roots had been receiving a lot of attention even before the first teaser was released because of its incredible cast-

ing. Han Seok-gyu plays King Sejong the Great, who is immersed in the creation of Hangul. While the drama remains focused around the central theme of language, mystery-thriller elements are added as suspicious murder cases occur and Kang Chaeyun, played by Jang Hyeok, searches for the culprits. Kang, who is first a slave and later a soldier, eventually becomes King Sejong’s bodyguard. The King and Chaeyun began to mistrust each other for reasons including their love for the same woman, So-i, played by one of today’s most-talked-about act resses Shin Sekyeong. Court lady So-i helps King Sejong with his creation of Hangul, which allows her to slowly overcome the childhood trauma that had left her mute.

Tree with Deep Roots is already a big hit, and viewers are looking forward to more excitement and thrills as the series proceeds.

See Tree with Deep Roots on Wednesday and Thursday at 9:55 pm on SBS.

10 Magazine December 2011 | 43

NATIONWIDE CALENDAR Girls’ Generation Destroyer

Wooden Shjips

Kaputt Merge/Silent Grey B e f o r e Va n c o u v e r singer-songwriter Dan Bejar brought his distinctive vocal stylings and cryptic lyricism to indie darlings the New Pornographers in 2000, he had already established himself as an artist of note in Canada’s burgeoning indie scene. His band Destroyer, formed in 1995, had 4 solid releases under their belt before Bejar took off for an extended hiatus. This latest album – Destroyer’s 13th – showcases Bejar’s quirky, often darkly intriguing vocal and compositional mien extremely well, using a platform of complex, powerful indie-pop instrumentation to carry his iconoclastic vision onto a new plane. Tunes like “Chinatown,” “Savage Night at the Opera,” and “Song for America” sparkle with a kind of urgent wistfulness not readily apparent on his earlier work, while Kaputt and Blue Eyes add a strong rhythmic element that keeps the music fresh and compelling. Dan Bejar still has lots to offer listeners seeking more than the usual pop puerility and Kaputt more than provides ample evidence of this!

West Thrill Jockey A b r a nd ne w r ele a s e from that erstwhile bastion of all that defined t he psyche del ic e dge of American music for many years - San Francisco. West offers up a fresh and wellproduced perspective on an esoteric subgen re of music wherei n the forces of experimental, minimalism, electro-drone, and spacey fusion combine to lead the listener down paths once trod in the 60s/ 70s by luminaries like the Doors, Velvet Underground, certain Brit trailblazers like Soft Machine (and nowadays by groups like The Black Angels and Black Rebel Motorcycle Club). If you like any of these bands you’ll like Wooden Shjips (No, it’s NOT a misspelling…!); if not, this music might take an adventurous spirit to pick up on, especially after the growling introduction provided by tunes like “Black Smoke Rise,” “Crossing,” and “Lazy Bones,” Some of the more expansive modes revealed on “Flight,” and “R ising” may be more accessible listener-wise, but overall, West is definitely an album for those who dwell on the fringe!

by M i c h a e l B e rry

Books

Fighting Again

Reading about the Korean war while living in Korea is interesting on several fronts.

For one, it’s engaging to see the place names you know transfixed in a separate context; going to Suwon takes on a special meaning when you’re aware of the battles fought there over half a century ago.

David Halberstam, author of “The Best a nd t he Br ig ht e st ” is an old hand at this p e r io d of t h e c old war, and k nows his factoids. In The Coldest Winter: America and the Korean War (2007, 718 pages) he takes an omniscient third person narrator perspective on the events surrounding the war, focusing on the US perspective. Here you find out what Ridgeway, MacArthur, Truman and Mao were thinking, and get the skinny on all the behind the scenes shenanigans that went into the war from the US perspective. How could Halberstam know all of this? Well, of course, he couldn’t.

44 | 10 Magazine December 2011

The Boys S.M. Entertainment G i rl s’ G e ne r ation listeners can be forgiven for being confused about the group’s message as they once again fail to be as tough as their music makes them seem.

In new album The Boys, the girls seem far more concerned about their wigs than in providing any insight beyond shallow clichés like “If you hesitate, opportunities will pass you by.” The rest of the album competently reproduces overused harmonies and upbeat europop odes full of empty but fashionable reflections that confuse an inflated hyper-ego for healthy self-confidence. Retro-pop tune “Lazy Girl” at first seems to be an honest look at real-life pressures, but quickly becomes a reprimand attributing failure to laziness. Though it’s a liability in the bid for genuine female self-empowerment, the album offers slick production and the contagiously catchy choruses for which SM Entertainment is famous. Strengths and weaknesses such as these make it a perfect example of Korean girl pop.

by A n n a Or z e l

by J ohn M ensing

Steeped in the era’s history, he writes as a popular novelist would, responsibly imagining all of the details for which there is no empirical evidence.

Almost everyone I’ve e ve r k now n who’s been involved i n a wa r has been reluctant to discuss t hei r exper iences.

Col. William Richardson, who was i nvolve d w it h t he Korean war from the ver y begin ning as a foot soldier, isn’t like that. In Valleys of Death: A Memoir of the Korean War (2010, 336 pages), he gives us a first person narrative of the events leading up the war, a series of battles, capture and imprisonment by the North Koreans and the Chinese, eventual release and return to American life. His writing is very stilted and formulaic, the way you’d expect an Army person to talk, as he strings together one hackneyed phrase after another, piling up clichés like so much cannon fodder. As hard as it is to read, though, you get a sense that

he’s telling you the truth, and it’s absolutely essential to have such primary source material in front of you if you’re going to try to make sense of the war.

Wit hout p e rh aps i n t e n d i n g t o h a ve done so, Brian Catchp ole c ome s a c ros s with the most credible empiricist perspective in The Korean War 1950 – 53 (2000, 386 pages). Catchpole, a former writer for The Economist, appears to have set out to gather what documentary evidence there was, mainly about the participation of United Kingdom forces in the war, and woven it together into a chronological narrative covering the war years. In the process of doing this, he had to account for the externalities of US, UN, Chinese, Japanese, etc., participation, and so tells those tales most soberly. All the major campaigns in the war are covered here, and it reads almost like a day-to-day diary of the war years. It is a most essential and reliable piece of documentary evidence.

Tech

by S tafford L u msden

nationwide Hotlines Emergency 119 Police 112 Directory Assistance 114 Medical Information Center 1339 This is a 24-hour, nationwide hospital information service available in English, Korean, Chinese and Japanese.

Citibank citibank.co.kr Deutsche Bank Bank of America Bank of China BNP Paribas

bnpparibas.co.kr HSBC

02-3455-2114 02-724-4500 02-2202-4500 02-399-0368 02-317-1700 02-311-0060

Overseas Accommodation

Foreigner Assistance/Translation BBB 24-hour Language Assistance

1588-5644 KTO Tourism 24-hr Infoline 1330 Korea Immigration immigration.go.kr 1345 Korean Customs customs.go.kr 1577-8577 Seoul Dasan (city info) 02-120

From left: Kindle, Kindle Touch, Kindle Fire

It’s a Kindle Christmas With the cooling weather and Christmas vacation on the horizon, you have a good excuse to curl up somewhere warm with a good book. Except the notion of “a book” is rapidly changing.

With the latest iterations of its Kindle, Amazon is taking the whole paradigm of buying and reading books in a whole new direction. This month three new Kindles were added to the line up bringing the number of models to six in all, ranging from just $109 to $199 for the top-end Android powered tablet-like version.

Moreover Amazon is subsidising the cost of some Kindles with advertisements, making the low end version just $79! For that you get a 6-inch screen to read from, “Advanced E-Ink” display (which is easier on the eye than LCD displays) and built in wi-fi, allowing access to the 800,000 titles Amazon has on sale in its Kindle e-book store.

The so-called Kindle Keyboard, besides having a keyboard boasts a two month battery life, the ability to play back audiobooks and mp3s, capacity for over 3000 books and access to thousands of out of print and public domain books as well. Combine the advertisements option (unobtrusive ads that only appear on the screen saver) and the price goes from $139 to Just $99.

A veritable stocking stuffer!

But arguably the greatest development with the latest round of Kindle releases is that “Whispernet” - Amazon’s 3G mobile offering - now works around the world, including Korea! Now readers won’t have to be connected to The Internet via wi-fi to purchase and download content. With ads the 3G Kindle is $139, down from $189.

While all of these are available to Korea-based Amazon customers, Amazon warns that customers may be liable for taxes and duties upon shipping one into the country. (Christmas is also a good time to make friends with people who have APO mailing addresses!)

One Kindle you won’t be able to get in Korea in time for Christmas is Amazon’s “Kindle Fire” - a tablet based on the Android Operating System that eschews the conventions of the normally phone-bound operating system in favour of a bookshelf style interface, most befitting for a product from Amazon.

Android devotees won’t be disappointed though, as along with copies of Steve Jobs’ Biography and the latest edition of The New York Times, access to Angry Birds and all your other favourite Android apps is still just a click away.

For $199 you get all of this, super fast Internet browsing through the Amazon Silk service and cloud storage for all your Amazon content including Amazon e-books, videos and mp3s.

The various Kindles are available from amazon.com/kindle.

Investment Assistance KOTRA kotra.or.kr Invest Korea investkorea.org

02-3460-7114 02-3460-7545

Korean Banks Shinhan Bank Seoul Global Center 1st Floor, Seoul Finance Center 84 Taepyungro 1-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul

02-773-3131 Korea Exchange Bank (KEB 외환은행) keb.co.kr 02-729-0114 SC First Bank (SC 제일은행) scfirstbank.com 02-3702-3114

Major Foreign Banks American Express americanexpress.co.kr 02-2000-8100 Australia & New Zealand Banking Group 02-3700-3100 China Construction Bank ccbseoul.com 02-6730-1718

Villa Orchid

Bali

Villa Orchid Bali Available for short or long term rental. Check website and then e-mail or call for exclusive Koreaonly low rates. villaorchidbali.com email: vittoriaco@hotmail.com 010-7307-6555

‘Where you’re more than just a guest’

WELCOME HOME TO FRASER PLACE CENTRAL, SEOUL Experience the wealth of opportunities, wondrous sights and cultural sounds that Seoul has to offer, while enjoying the luxury and comforts of a Gold Standard serviced residence and knowing that every need is well taken care of. Fraser Place Central Seoul. The retreat within a city, your home away from home.

FRASER PLACE CENTRAL - SEOUL #202, UIJURO 1-GA, JUNG-GU, SEOUL, KOREA 100-130 Reservations: +82-2-2220-8000,8333 Website: www.fraserplace.co.kr

10 Magazine December 2011 | 45

Food Review

Whimsical Brunch Spot for Techies Honey Bowl

Words and shots by Joe McPherson

SEOUL The brunch offerings at this café are as delicious as the building’s design is sharp.

T

here are a few well-known food streets in Seoul. There are the cla s sic de d icat e d a r e a s l i ke Tteokbokki Street. There are the trendy ones like Garosu-gil. The latter one is all pizzazz with little substance. I can’t think of any awesome stops there. In between Sangsu and Hapjeong Stations, a little south of Hongdae, a new area is growing with ultra-modern restaurants and wine bars that actually deliver on the goods. Some of them look like they were designed by Johnny Ives (look up your Apple history).

One such place is a little brunch café, Honey Bowl. The design is tight, with honeycomb patterns running around the location. It’s bright and sleek. The difference between eating at home and sitting down in a restaurant is that you don’t just want to fill your belly; you want a special experience—some theatre. Many times restaurants concentrate on either one or the other. I tend to not trust overly designed restaurants. Honey Bowl almost fits in that category. It did have that vibe I tend to see in Seoul buildings of “build it and forget it.” It’s gorgeously designed, but it’s also received a bit of grunge.

To add to the vibe, the menu is on an iPad2 with playful pictures (funny that I was listening to the Steve Jobs book at the time). The breakfast items are the typical ones you’d find at Korean 46 | 10 Magazine December 2011

brunch stops—pancakes, French toast, sausage, salad. The Eggs Benedict plays on the classic a bit. Even though the menu says pancakes come with it, I think it’s a mistranslation of English muffins.

The Canadian bacon is replaced with American bacon, and there’s a tomato in there which gives it a boost. The Korean brunch staple of the balsamic salad also stands out with sautéed mushrooms.

They specialize in different ades.

The Green Apple Ade is refreshing and tangy. Yet the real strength of Honey Bowl is its desserts, particularly its crepes. You must try the Caramel & Nutty Crepe. Though I don’t recommend it if you are allergic to nuts or yumminess. Three different nuts join caramel sauce, a generous scoop of vanilla ice cream, and nummy crepes to bring home some childhood joy.

Though Honey Bowl fashions itself as a taste of America, even blaring the latest American pop tunes, it has that Korean take on brunch. It takes the good aspects of it, though. The ades and the ice cream crepes are a lot of fun. The Honey Bowl is a bright sunny kitchen which make you feel like a kid again.

10 Magazine reimburses reviewers for their meals and never notifies restaurants that they will be reviewed.

English menu Allowed on the outside deck Veggie friendly Accessible Reservations not necessary Pleasant crepes in a bright whimsical setting Some wear and tear detract from the atmosphere W4,700-W15,900 070-7012-4550 410-21 Jeongwon Building 1st Floor, Hapjeong-dong, Mapo-gu Sun-Thu 10 am – 10 pm, Fri-Sat 10 am – 11 pm

FOODIE FINDS

From South Africa to Seoul Braai Republic

Pursuing Coffee Across the Universe

The first coffee shops in Korea were dabang (다방), dingy alcoves that served watered-down instant coffee in paper cups.

We’ve come a long way, baby! House-roasted hand-drip brews are everywhere now. There has been a revival of 70s nostalgia in Korea, and this includes the resurrection of the dabang. Only this time they serve amazing coffee in classic settings. Eunhasu Dabang (은하수 다방, “Galaxy Café”) is the place the coffee snobs are going to. Not only does it have that atmosphere, but they also make great coffee (try their signature ice coffee). The place has even been immortalized in the song “Love at the Eunhasu Dabang” by the duo 10cm. Sangsu Station (line 2, exit 1). Cross the double road and turn right at the next road. Pass the 7-Eleven, and it’s on the right. 401-12 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul.

02-332-0248 Words and shot by Joe Mc ph e rs on

This new restaurant brings a uniquely South African gustatory experience to the burgeoning Itaewon food scene.

Braai Republic, referring to the South African term for BBQ, is the brainchild of South Africans Chris Truter and Roddy Bancroft.

The two opened the restaurant and pub recently in hopes of offering adventurous customers an authentic taste of the African veld.

The restaurant opened right at the beginning of the 2011 Rugby World Cup and quickly became the South African supporters’ HQ for the duration, but the owners plan to take things even further.

They have added a South African chef and will offer customers the chance to buy their signature SA delicacies to take out and enjoy at their leisure. These include borewors, the farmer’s sausage that is the mainstay of any braai; droewors, a dried, chewy version of the same; biltong, the SA version of beef jerky and a truly South African symbol; chili-bites, a spicier biltong; and assorted SA fruit juices such as pink guava, mango, and lychee.

From the kitchen, hungry souls will be able to sate their cravings with homemade SA dishes like ox-tail stew, bobotie (a lamb curry casserole) and assorted other treats, all served with a traditional coleslaw and the ever-popular mielie pap (corn meal)—all classic SA tastes brought to bear in fine style right here in Seoul.

The owners hope South Africans from all over the peninsula will make the trek to their doors, where a comforting slice of home awaits.

Hanmiri Korean cuisine fit for a king Gujeolpan

t t t t

Sinseollo

20 years of tradition Serving up a variety of full-course meals Private rooms available for groups of all sizes Plenty of vegetarian options HOURS: 11:30 am-3 pm, 5:30 pm-10 pm, www.hanmiri.co.kr Yeoksam 02.569.7165~6

Gwnaghwamun 02.757.5707~8 Gwanghwamun Stn, Line 5

Yeoksam Stn, Line 2

Gangnam Finance Center

B1, GFC (Star Tower) 737 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu

Jongno

Cheonggyecheonro

Premium Place 2nd floor 96 Mugyo-dong, Jung-gu

G e tt i n g T h e r e From exit 4 of Itaewon Stn. (line 6), walk straight

and turn left at the alley just before the McDonald’s. Go through the intersection, past the Juliette clothing store, and Braii Republic is on your left on the second floor. Open Mon 5 – 11 pm, Wed – Sun noon – 11 pm.

Closed Mon, and the kitchen shuts down between 3 – 5 pm on weekdays.

Search for “Braai Republic” on Facebook. 070-8879-1967 Words by M ic h a e l B e rry and shot by D om i n iqu e Buck

Chef’s Seasonal Menu Free!

Display this coupon with your order of any entrée and receive one of the items shown above for free (W44,000 value).

10 Magazine December 2011 | 47

SEOUL CALENDAR art re v iew

December Gallery Visits

Through December 4th Art of Communication Exhibit 10 pieces by four world-famous artists—Anri Salsa, Yang-ah Ham, Philip Pareno and Jorge Pardo—are unified by the theme of communication. National Art Museum at Deoksugung Palace. Closed Mon. Tue - Thu 10 am - 7 pm, Fri - Sun 10 am - 9 pm. W5,000. moca.go.kr 02-2022-0600

SEOUL

Artsonje Center is hosting a group exhibition through January 15th, 2012. This exhibit, entitled City Within a City, is a joint project by Korea and Australia, which investigates the cities in which we live. It’s an inquiry into urban configurations and the dynamics of the spaces that many of us call home.

• 11 am – 7 pm.

Adults W3,000, students W1,500.

144-2 Sogyeok-dong, Jongno-gu. artsonje.org 02-733-8945

The News after the News Exhibit Dan Perjovschi is famous for drawing not on paper but on the walls, floors and windows of museums. Total Museum of Contemporary Art in Pyeongchang-dong.

Gyeongbokgung Stn. (line 3, ex.3) 11 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W9,000, students W7,000 danperjovschi.kr 02-379-3994

Rivers become cities, 2011, poster for tourism on the 4rivers, Listen to the City, Autumn

Ten years after the death of Lim Eun-sik, the National Museum of Contemporary Art annex at Deoksugung Palace plays host to a huge retrospective of his work. The exhibition runs from December 20th until March 4th, 2012.

• 10 am – 5 pm, Sat till 8 pm, closed Mon. Adults W3,000, minors W1,500. 5-1 Jeong-dong, Jung-gu. moca.go.kr 02-2022-0600

C a n d i d a H ö f e r h a s n ow ex h i bit e d i n m a ny of t h e top cities around the world displaying her large format photographic prints of empty rooms. Höfer’s work will be on display at Kukje Gallery from November 25th through Christmas Day. Neues Museum Berlin VIII, 2009, C-print, 184 x 222 cm, Courtesy of the artist and Kukje Gallery, Seoul

• 10 am – 5 pm, Sun till 6 pm.

59-1 Sogyeok-dong, Jongno-gu. kukjegallery.com 02-735-8449

Among members of the International Artists Community exhibiting their work in December is Sven Schelwach. With The Parallel Universes, held at Gallery Dongne from December 3rd – 25th. Sven explores the limits of human perception.

His aluminum prints require the viewer to disengage with the details and re-evaluate what they thought they knew in order to understand the entirety.

• 261-5 Seogye-dong, Yongsan-gu. blog.naver.com/dongnemisul 010-8001-6993

The Arario Gallery Seoul has an impressive exhibition by Korean artist Kim Byoung-ho showing through December 18th. Visitors will find unique large-sized sound sculptures.

These are constructed from various metals and contain electronic circuits which create noise.

Irreversible Damage 2011, anodizing on aluminum, piezo, arduino, 200x180x80cm, Arario Gallery

48 | 10 Magazine December 2011

Art

• 10 am – 9 pm. Closed Mon. Free. 149-2 Sogyeok-dong, Jongno-gu. ararioseoul.com 02-723-6190 Words by M a rt y n T hom pson

Thread Exhibit Artist Kim Si-yeon uses unconventional materials such as soap and salt in her work. Gallary Hyundai, 16 Bungee. Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex.1). 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. 16bungee.com 02-2287-3516 Through Time Exhibit Portraits, writings and photos of 16 Seongbuk artists will trace Korean art and culture.

Seongbuk Museum of Art near Hanseong University Stn. (line 4, ex. 6).

10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. W2,000. sma.gongdan.go.kr 02-6925-5011 Through December 10th Translated Exhibit A group exhibit of the work of eleven artists who participated in the 2011 international residency exchange program at the National Museum of Contemporary Art. Changdong Art Studio and the Korea Foundation Cultural Center Gallery.

Closed Sun. artstudio.or.kr 02-995-0995 Through December 16th Fading Voices: Seoul Exhibition The House of Sharing international outreach team is presenting works under the title “The Liberating Herstories: Seeking Justice for ‘Comfort Women’ through Art” at a local cafe which was originally an old briquette factory. Cafe Anthracite near Sangsu Stn. (line 6, ex. 4). 11 am - 12 pm.

Free. houseofsharing.org 02-322-0009 Through December 26th Dream Park Exhibition: Season 2 Unusual objects, light, sound and animation are used in these experimental works. North Seoul Dream Forest Art Center near Dolgoji Stn. dfac.or.kr 02-2289-5401 Through December 31st Out of the Silent Planet Exhibit This exhibit gathers artwork that manifests the three characteristics of light, sound, and a particular relationship with time and presents them in a new exhibit space that corresponds to the particularities of the works. National Museum of Contemporary Art, Deoksugung Palace branch near City Hall Stn. (line 1, ex. 2).

10 am – 5 pm. Sat 10 am – 8 pm. Closed Mon. moca.go.kr 02-2022-0600 Through February 29th Chinese Food, Clothing and Shelter Exhibition Exhibiting handicrafts from the Ming and Qing Dynasties. Hwajeong Museum near Gyeongbokgung Stn. (line 3, ex. 3). 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon & Holidays. W4,000. hjmuseum.or.kr 02-2075-0114 Through March 18th Karl Lagerfeld’s “Work in Progress” Photography Exhibition Director of Fendi and Chanel, world-famous fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld titled the exhibition “Work in Progress” to reflect his motto that each work should improve

upon what went before. The exhibit includes photographs from the 2011 F/W collections of Chanel and Fendi and more. Daelim Contemporary Art Museum near Gyeongbokgung Stn. (line 3, ex. 3).

Tue - Sun 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. W5,000. daelimmuseum.org 02-720-0667 December 2nd - 4th SAFA (Seoul Art Festival) Held on the 9th through 11th floors of the JW Marriott Seoul. Noon - 8 pm. Tickets start at W10,000. safa.or.kr 070-4119-0090 December 8th - 11th Art Edition 2011 Various art pieces including photos, sculptures and engravings will be exhibited. Seoul Trade Exhibition Center (SETEC). Hakyeoul Stn. (line 3, ex. 1) 10 am - 6 pm. artedition.kr 02-521-9613

Theater & Dance Ongoing Figaro, the Barber of Seville: Opera/ Musical Presented by OTM (Originale Teatro Melodramma), this open-run production of Rossini’s famous opera buffa takes the bold step of featuring theatre actors and actresses in operatic roles. OTM Cheongdam Art Hall.

Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 5 pm.

100 min. W20,000 - W50,000. otm.or.kr 070-8157-8064 Through December 11th The Blue Room: The Play Critically acclaimed English playwright David Hare presents his controversial modern interpretation of La Ronde. M Theater in Sejong Center for Performing Arts. 100 min. Closed Mon. Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 3 & 6 pm, Sun 2 & 5 pm. W40,000 W60,000. Must be over 19 years old. sejongpac.or.kr 1588-5212 Through December 28th A Feast for Dancers Korea’s traditional dance and music will be performed at Seonggyun Theater near Hyehwa Stn. (line 4). 70 min. Every Wednesday 8 pm.

W20,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-747-5035 December 2nd - 3rd Dancing Asia 2011 Presenting pieces by talented, experimental Asian choreographers. Arco Art Theater.

Hyehwa Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). 8 pm.

W20,000. hanpac.or.kr 02-325-5702 December 2nd - 4th Rigoletto: The Opera Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 2nd: 8 pm. 3rd: 7 pm. 4th: 4 pm.

140 min. W15,000 - W350,000. cafe.daum.net/sgopera 02-542-0350 December 13th Fantasy Dance Performance This performance consists of eight different traditional Korean dances. National Theater of Korea. 11 am. 80 min.

W10,000 includes rice cake. ntok.go.kr 02-2280-4115 December 15th - 16th Now, Movement: The Dance Every December, the Seoul National Dance Company arranges a performance with three famous choreographers. This mixture of different styles gives viewers a chance to see trends in contemporary dance. Sejong Center M Theater near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5). 8 pm.

W20,000 - 30,000. sejongpac.or.kr 02-399-1766 December 15th - 25th The Tempest: The Play A prizewinning entry at the Edinburgh Festival, The Tempest brings a unique Korean sensibility to Shakespeare’s classic work cont. on p. 52

editor’ s pick

SEOUL

Cut & Paste Tournament December 10th

Art & Design

First held in 2005, this global tournament brings talented designers together to compete in the areas of 2D, 3D, and animation. Similar to Starcraft gamers, designers work live on stage with the added pressure of a time limit. Along with this creative entertainment, the audience can enjoy music by DJs, the commentary of an MC, and bartenders ready to serve.

When the final three winners in each category have been chosen, they will join winners from other cities to compete in the annual Global Championship in New York in March 2012.

Event is held at Platoon Kunsthalle in Gangnam. 7 pm – 1 am.

W20,000 in advance, W25,000 at the door. cutandpaste.com 02-3447-1191 Words by J e ssica L ee

David LaChapelle

Death by Hamburger, 2001

Photography Exhibit

Through February 26th

Art

Known as the Fellini of photography, David LaChapelle is an American artist whose daring and bizarre Pop Art style resulted in his being chosen recently as one of the world’s 10 best photographers. Even before David had graduated from high school, his talent had been recognized by Andy Warhol.

Inspired by art history, street culture, and the Hawaiian jungle, he began taking distinctive pictures of celebrities including Madonna, Michael Jackson, and David Beckham. This exhibition of his work is definitely worth a visit. Design Museum at the Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5).

11 am - 7 pm. W13,000. Closed every last Monday. dlcseoul.com 02-566-0835 Words by J e ssica L ee 10 Magazine December 2011 | 49

SEOUL CALENDAR discov ery

Openrun Nonverbal Performances Lack of Korean ability can be a big stumbling block for plays or musicals performed in the local language, but you will find none of those problems at the following shows. All ongoing, and all non-verbal, these performances are perfect for fans of dance, physical comedy, and exciting music, no matter which language you may speak.

SEOUL

* *

D-Cube City,

Seoul’s Newest Shopping Center Just one year after the Times Square shopping center opened in Yeongdeungpo-gu, southwestern Seoul gets another mega-mall.

For Seoulites who live by the beat of ppali-ppali (빨리빨리, “hurry up”), one-stop shopping centers like D-Cube City are a welcome trend. Offering department stores, restaurants, theaters, medical clinics, banquet halls, outdoor parks and anything else a modern consumer might desire, these time-saving malls provide a variety of shops and services all under one convenient roof.

D-Cube City isn’t only for the hurried, though. The masterminds behind this city-within-a-city have made great efforts to design the sort of place where people would want to linger. In fact, stretching from the 29th to the 41st floors is the Sheraton Hotel, where guests can enjoy a sprawling view of Seoul from the highest lobby in Korea. On a clear day, even Incheon’s shores can be seen from here.

Savvy fashionistas will be happy to find many imported brands like Zara, H&M and Uniqlo in one space. In addition to these already popular labels, D-Cube City introduces Spanish favorites like Bershka, Pull & Bear and Stradivarius. For shoe lovers, Kathy Van Zeeland, the renowned designer of Nine West, has launched her very first Korean franchise here.

When all that shopping calls for a need to refuel, the hungry can head to one of D-Cube’s many restaurants. From China Feng’s hand-made dim sum to the Michelin-starred ramen at Mist, the restaurant floor transports diners to different worlds.

The basement food court is open 365 days a year and dedicates one floor to World Street Foods and another to Korean menus.

The Korean Food Street boasts fabulous royal court cuisine, joomak (traditional tavern) foods, and snacks like tteokbokki, sourced from all over the nation.

G e tt i n g T h e r e

D-Cube City is located in Guro-gu in southwest Seoul. Take subway line 1 or 2 to Sindorim Station and get out at exit 1. dcubecity.com

Words and shots * by Ch r ist i n e Pa rk

50 | 10 Magazine December 2011

Ballerina Who Loves a B-Boy A would-be ballerina falls for a b-boy street dancer in this mash-up of break dance and ballet. Lotte World Art Hall at Jamsil Stn. (line 2). Wed – Fri 8 pm, Sat – Sun 3 & 6 pm. Closed Mon & Tue. W50,000. showbboy.com 02-2266-3727

Battle B-Boy Romance at a dance tournament serves as the background for some awesome break dance routines. B-Boy Theater Samjin B/D B1 in Hongdae. Wed - Fri 8 pm, Sat 6 pm, Sun and holidays 2 pm. 90 min. Closed Mon & Tue. W50,000. sjbboys.com 02-323-5233

Bibap Bibap depicts one of Korea’s representative dishes, bibimbap. It was favorably received at the Edinburgh Fringe Festival in 2010. Cecil Theater near City Hall Stn. (lines 1 & 2, ex. 3) and Gwangwhamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 6). Closed Mon. Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun & Holidays 3 & 6 pm. W40,000 - W50,000. ceciltheater.com 02-766-0815

Drawing Show: Hero Art exhibit or performance? The drawing show is as fun to watch as it is hard to classify.

Myungbo Art Hall near Chungmuro Stn. (lines 3 & 7, ex. 7). Weekdays 8 pm, Sat 4 & 7 pm, Sun & Holidays 3 & 6 pm.

W40,000 - W50,000. drawingtheater. com 02-766-7848

Drum Cat This prize-winning, all-female percussion ensemble works rock, jazz, techno, and latin rhythms into their powerful performance.

Myungbo Art Hall in Jung-gu. Tue - Sat 4 & 8 pm. Sun & holidays 4 pm. 90 min.

Closed Mon. W40,000 - W50,000. drumcat.co.kr 02-586-8489

Fanta-stick This show mixes physical comedy with traditional Korean music for lots of laughs. Kyunghyang Newspaper Building near Seodaemun Stn. (line 5, ex. 5). Daily at 8 pm. 80 min.

W40,000 - W50,000. fanta-stick.co.kr 02-6401-5959

Jump Two would-be thieves break into a house full of martial arts masters! First performed in 2003, this show combines a comic story with martial arts moves and impressive visuals. Downtown near Jonggak Stn. Mon 8 pm, Tue – Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun 3 & 6 pm. W40,000 – W60,000. hijump.co.kr 02-722-3995

Korea House Performance Head over to the Korea House for two daily performances based on traditional Korean culture. Chungmuro Stn. (lines 3 & 4, ex. 3). Part 1: 6:30 - 7:30 pm, part 2: 8:30 - 9:30 pm. Dinner price starts at W68,200. Performance is W50,000 (30% discount with dinner). kangkoku.or.kr 02-2266-9101

Legend of Flower II This romantic tale of two lovers is back and better than ever with stunning sound effects, tantalizing aromas, holographs, and more. Walkerhill Theater at the Sheraton

Grande Walkerhill. Mon - Sat 4:50 & 7:30 pm. 75 min. W60,000 and up. legendofflower.com 02-455-5000

The Marionette: B-Boy Musical This b-boy musical won the top prize in an international competition. Daehan Saengmyeong 63 Art Hall. 8 pm.

Closed Mon & 1st & 15th. 70 min.

W30,000. 63.co.kr 1661-1063

Miso Chongdong Theater presents Miso, a story of one woman’s encounter with love told through traditional dance, percussion, and music. City Hall Stn. (lines 1, 2). 4 & 8 pm. Closed Mon. 80 min. W30,000 – W50,000. miso.chongdong.com 02-751-1500

Music Theater Company Gong A modern take on the traditional music and dance of the Joseon Dynasty.

Seong Kyun Small Theater near Hyewha Stn. (line 4, ex. 4). Every Wednesday at 8 pm. 60 min. W20,000. cafe.daum.net/danceparamita 1544-1555

Nanta This kitchen percussion extravaganza is the stage show that nearly everyone sees at least once. Three Seoul locations and performances almost daily. W40,000 – W60,000. To find out how to get a big discount on your tickets, see p. 29. nanta.co.kr 02-739-8288

Pan An exciting combination of Korean folk songs, dances, and games.

Gwanghwamun Art Hall. Weekdays 7:30 pm. Weekends and holidays at 4 pm.

Closed Mon and Tue, and from 11/2 – 11/13 this month due to an overseas tour. 90 min. W30,000 W50,000. ghmarthall.com 02-722-3416

Sa-Choom The story of three friends’ coming of age is told through dance.

Insadong near Jongno 3-ga Stn. (lines 1, 3, & 5, ex. 5). Mon - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 7:30 pm, Sun 4 pm. 80 min. W25,000 - W50,000. lovedance.co.kr 02-3676-7616

Samcheonggak Morning Performance Start the day by sipping a cup of seasonal tea and listening to the sound of traditional Korean musical instruments. Samcheonggak in Seongbuk-gu. Free shuttle bus available outside of Euljiro Stn. (line 2, ex. 1) at 9:10 am. Every final Saturday.

10 am - 11 am. 60 min. W20,000. samcheonggak.or.kr 02-765-3700

editor’ s pick

Sotto Gamba’s

First Album Launch Party

PUB & RESTAURANT Come to Itaewon’s neighborhood pub!

Concerts

This month will see the long-anticipated release of Sotto Gamba’s first full-length album. Sotto Gamba members Mikey (guitar/ vocals), Bobby (bass/vocals) and Hambone (saxophone/percussion) admit they took longer than they had hoped to complete their opus, but were unwilling to release anything that didn’t sound great. For those unfamiliar with Sotto Gamba’s musical style, they play all-original material, influenced by and reflecting their eclectic tastes. It’s not unusual to hear samba-bossa nova, ska, hip-hop, funk and jazz all in the same set. The event will also feature musical guests Hit the 9, Los Diablos Blancos, and Willman Band. DGBD in Hongdae near Hapjeong Station.

10:30 pm. W10,000 includes the new album, a free drink and a night of killer live music. sottogamba@gmail.com

Back room patio/terrace available for private parties & events.

Heineken Hoegaarden Ally Kat Guinness Domestic beers

이태원 대한민국 Itaewon Station exit 1, pass KFC on the right. Turn right at the 4th alley. 2nd floor of the third building on the left.

Phone: 02-792-2550

Jazz Christmas with Ronn Branton December 24th - 25th

Concerts

Each year in December, tickets go on sale for jazz pianist Ronn Branton’s Christmas concert. And each year for the ten years that the concert has been held, these tickets have all sold out.

The secret to Branton’s success lies partly in how clichéd carols such as “Jingle Bells” and “Little Drummer Boy” sound so new when performed with the syncopation and improvisation of jazz. But another essential part of the success is the talent of the musicians. Supporting Branton’s piano chops are Klae on the sax, Valtinho Anastacio on percussion, and Choi Jin-bae on bass. This year’s concert will also feature vocals by special guest Do-yeon, Branton’s daughter. Sejong Center for the Performing Arts near Gwanghwamun Station (line 5). 90 min. 4 & 8 pm.

W44,000 - W55,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-888-2698

Proudly supplied by Kobeak Foods©

10 Magazine December 2011 | 51

SEOUL

December 10th

* Pool * Darts * NFL Football on Demand * Beers on Tap!

Daily Drink Specials Weekday Happy Hour & Food Specials

SEOUL CALENDAR

cont. from p. 52

editor’ s pick

of theater. In Korean. Daehangno Art Theater. Hyehwa Stn. (line 4, ex 2).

Closed Mon. Tue - Thu 8 pm, Fri 3 & 8 pm, Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 4 pm. W10,000 - W70,000. hanpac.or.kr 02-3668-0007 December 15th - 29th Annie: The Musical In Korean. Sejong Center for the Performing Arts. 130 min.

15th, 16th, 21st, 22nd 7:30 pm, 18th & 25th 3 & 7 pm. W30,000 - W70,000. sejongpac.or.kr 02-399-1772

SEOUL

December 18th - 19th The Prince and Christmas: The Musical The last prince of the Chosun dynasty visits another world on Christmas Day. Performed by the National Children’s Choir of Seoul and the Ensemble Pan. Sejong Center M Theater near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex.7, 8). 7 pm. W25,000 - W30,000. sejongpac.or.kr 02-399-1753

Getting Lost In a Book in Itaewon

The Yongsan District Office’s book café offers Itaewon visitors a quiet hideaway from the area’s busy streets.

It’s hard to imagine a reasonable place to study or enjoy some quiet time in the hustle and bustle of Itaewon, but such a place now exists. The Yongsan District Office’s book café is now open on the 10th floor of the building. The café offers over 3,000 books and magazines (mostly in Korean) and free internet on their PCs. Visitors can feel at ease in the café’s spacious seating area or enjoy a cup of black coffee (for only W500) while overlooking the Itaewon area from the cafe’s outdoor terrace.

The café also includes a Kid Zone where children are able to enjoy reading in a comfortable environment. All ages of children are welcome, but children under the age of six should be accompanied by an adult. This is a great opportunity for parents and their children who have not yet entered school.

The book café is a perfect location for people of all ages and occupations. It’s rare to find a café in Korea that is suitable for study, but this one has the same vibe as a university library.

Likewise, there’s also a cafeteria available in the Yongsan District Office building. A meal costs between W3,500 and W4,000—probably the cheapest lunch in the area.

For the individual who has been searching for a quiet place to leisurely read or study, look no further. This book cafe is your new place of escape.

G e tt i n g T h e r e

Get off at Noksapyeong Station (line 6) and walk out of exit 1. Walk straight for approximately 300 meters and the Yongsan District Office will be on your left. The book café is located on the 10th floor.

The book cafe is open from 8 am to 7 pm on weekdays not including public holidays. 02-2199-8967

52 | 10 Magazine December 2011

Words and shots by Ja de Suson

December 21st – 31st The Nutcracker: The Ballet Just in time for Christmas, classic ballet The Nutcracker comes to us courtesy of the Universal Ballet Company. Hundreds of dancers masquerade as fairies to show us a stirring Christmas fantasy.

Universal Art Center near Achasan Stn. (line 5, ex. 4). 3:30 & 7:30 pm, Sun 2 & 5:30 pm, closed 26th. W10,000 W200,000. uac.co.kr 070-7124-1740 December 22nd - 23rd Microphone: The Dance Part of multi-genre project, this performance is based on pop songs from the 60s through the 90s. Arco Arts Theater.

Hyehwa Stn. (line 4, ex.2) 8 pm. W20,000 - 50,000 hanpac.or.kr 02-3668-0007 December 23rd - 25th Please! The Musical Eco-orchestra group Noridan use their bodies, everyday objects, and recycled instruments to make music. Guro Art Valley Theater. Fri 4 & 7 pm, Sat 3 & 6 pm, Sun 3 pm. W15,000. guroartsvalley.or.kr 02-2029-1700

Concerts Through December 28th Lunch Concert: Tasteful The concert combines nutritious food and fascinating Korean music. Samcheonggak in north Seoul. Shuttle bus at City Hall Stn. (line 1, ex. 4). Mon - Wed 12 pm. W50,000 W70,000. samcheonggak.or.kr 02-765-3700 December 1st Gangnam Symphony Brunch Concert Listen to Tchaikovsky and Mozart as you enjoy some pastries and drinks.

Gangnam-gu Community Center. 11 am.

W10,000. gfac.or.kr 02-6712-0534 December 1st - 2nd Mama’s Gun Live in Seoul Though they focus on soul, this amazing band also integrates acid jazz, funk, and R&B into their msuic. V-Hall. Hongdae (line 2, ex. 9). 8 pm. W66,000. club.cyworld. com/v-hall 02-338-0957 December 3rd The Czech Boys Choir, Bonipueri The Bonipueri Boys Choir has performed all over the world. Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). 7 pm.

W20,000 - W70,000. sejongpac.or.kr 1544-1887 Giovanni Mirabassi Piano Concert When Giovanni Mirabassi visited Korea last March, he composed the song “Somewhere in Seoul” for his fans. He plans to give audience members a special gift at this concert as well. Olympus Hall.

7 pm. W44,000 - W55,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-6255-3270

Paavo Jarvi, Paik Kun-Woo and the Paris Orchestra The Paris Orchestra will be performing with accomplished pianist Paik Kun-woo The program includes Messiaen’s Offrandes Oubliees, Ravel’s Concerto for piano in G Major and Stravinsky’s Petrouchka. Seoul Art Center near Nambu Bus Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W60,000 W270,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 December 4th The King’s Singers Christmas Concert Hear some of the world’s finest a cappella with The King’s Singers.

Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W30,000 W100,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Maxence Larrieu and Andras Adorjan Flute Concert The 20th year the Flute Charity Concert of Love will be held. Seoul Art Center near Nambu Bus Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 2 pm.

W20,000 - W100,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Romantic Concert with Gum Nan-se Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). 5 pm. W5,000 - W30,000. sejongpac.or.kr 02-399-1789 Shin Kwan-woong and Choi Ji-woo Dynamic Jazz Concert Top Korean musicians Shin Kwan-woong (pianist) and Choi Ji-woo (drummer) are holding a concert together. National Theater of Korea. Shuttle bus available from Dongguk University Stn. (line 3, ex. 6). 8 pm. W40,000 - W100,000. ntok.go.kr/ 02-742-7278 William Youn Piano Recital:Schubert Travels with Photography Listen to beautiful music as you look at striking photographs of Europe. Olympus Hall in Samsung-dong. 5 pm. W40,000. olympushall.co.kr 02-2658-3546 December 5th The 44th Performance of Handel’s Messiah Get in the holiday spirit with Handel’s Messiah, performed at the Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). 7:30 pm. W10,000 - W70,000. sejongpac.or.kr 1544 -1887 December 8th 11 AM Concert The program consists of songs from movies and dramas, including Out of Africa, Beethoven Virus and Black Swan. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 11 am.

W15,000 - W20,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Chang Han-na Cello Recital Famous Korean cellist Chang Han-na returns to Korea to perform with pianist Finghin Collins. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm.

W50,000 - W150,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 December 9th December Symphony: Dvorak The W Philharmonic Orchestra will play Czech composer Dvorak’s 5th and 9th symphonies. Nowon Culture and Arts Center. 7:30 pm. W20,000 - W30,000. nowonart.kr 02-951-3355 Deerhoof in Concert San Franciscobased rock band Deerhoof has a concert in Korea to mark their new album. Similar in style to the Yeah Yeah Yeahs and White Stripes. Sangsang Madang Art Space in Hongdae. Sangsu Stn. (line 6, ex. 1). 7:30 pm. W38,000 in advance, W43,000 at the door. bgbg.co.kr 070-7425-7687 Happy Christmas Concert with Les Petits Chanteurs à La Croix de Bais Featuring a popular French choir. Sejong Center for the Performing Arts. 8 pm.

W30,000 - W100,000. sejongpac.or.kr 02-597-9870 December 9th - 10th Yun Jong-shin “Just Melody” Concert Singer-songwriter Yun Jong-shin focuses on story and melody at this concert. Bluesquare Samsung Card Hall near Hangangjin Stn. (line 6 between ex. 2 and 3). 9th: 8 pm. 10th: 7 pm. W66,000 - W88,000. bluesquare.kr 1544-1591 December 9th - 11th Selections from Carmen and La Traviata Two of the most successful operas in the history of the genre. Seoul Art Center near Nambu Bus Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). Fri 7:30 pm, Sat & Sun 3 & 7:30 pm. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300

Save the Air “Green Concert” Yozoh, Han Hui-jeong, Casker, Kim Ji-su and Superkidd appear at this concert.

Proceeds will go to charity. Sangsang Madang Art Space in Hongdae near Sangsu Stn. (line 6, ex. 1). 5 - 9 pm. savetheair.com 02-3142-2986 December 10th - 11th Lee Seung-gi “Hope” Concert Lee Seung-gi only has one concert a year.

Miss this one, and you’ll have to wait until next year. Gymnastics Stadium at Olympic Park near Olympic Park Stn. (line 5, ex. 3). 10th: 7 pm. 11th: 5 pm.

W55,000 - W132,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-410-1114 December 11th Park Ju-won Guitar Concert: Sorrow Fiesta Guitarist Park Ju-won has just released his 2nd album. Mapo Arts Center near Daeheung Stn. (line 6, ex. 2).

6 pm. W44,000 - W55,000. mapoartcenter.or.kr 02-3143-5480 December 12th Friends of Korea Foundation Concert Established in 1991, the Korea Foundation has worked hard to promote awareness and understanding of Korea. Seoul Arts Performing Center. 8 pm. W10,000 W30,000. sac.or.kr 1577-5266 December 13th Seoul Pops Orchestra Dinner Concert The Seoul Pops Orchestra is holding a concert to support multicultural families. Grand Hyatt Hotel. 6:30 pm.

W230,000. seoulpops.com 02-593-8760 December 16th Kazumi Tateishi Trio: Ghibli meets Jazz Famous Japanese jazz trio Kazumi Tateishi takes songs from anime by Studio Ghibli and adds their own distinctive rhythms. Guro Arts Valley. 8 pm. W55,000 - W66,000. guroartsvalley.or.kr 02-2029-1721 Winterplay Concert: Winter Wonderland Winterplay’s catchy style is a combination of pop and jazz. AX-Korea near Gwangnaru Stn. (line 5, ex. 2).

8 pm. W55,000. fluxusmusic.com 02-3445-9650 December 17th French Horn Rebellion in Concert People started noticing this Brooklynbased electronic duo after they produced MGMT’s EP Time to Pretend.

This will be their second concert in Korea. Rolling Hall in Hongdae. W18,000 in advance, W24,000 at the door. supercolorsuper.com 010-8546-8381

December 19th Joe Brooks Concert: Acoustic Christmas Dream British singersongwriter Joe Brooks is performing for the first time in Korea. V-Hall at Hongik Univ. Stn. (line 2, ex.9). 8 pm. W66,000. club.cyworld.com/v-hall 02-6339-1232 December 22nd - 25th Kim Jang-hun and Psy in Concert Gymnastics Stadium at Olympic Park near Olympic Park Stn. (line 5, ex. 3).

22th: 8:30 pm, 23th: 9 pm, 24: 7 & 11:30 pm, 25th: 6:30 pm. W55,000 W132,000. kspo.or.kr 02-410-1114

SEOUL

December 10th Indie Station 284 At old Seoul Station, see famous Korean indie bands like Crying Nut, Galaxy Express and others.

Culture Station Seoul 284 RTO. (line 1, 4).

3 pm - 8 pm. W10,000. seoulstation.org 02-3407-3505

December 18th Song Young-joo Jazz Meets Christmas Concert With carols such as “Joy to the World” and “The First Noel.” Show up with your boyfriend or girlfriend and get a free glass of wine. D-Cube Arts Center near Sindorim Station. 7 pm. W33,000 W55,000. d3art.co.kr 02-2211-3000

December 23rd Julius Kim: Franz Liszt 200th Anniversary Concert Seoul Art Center near Nambu Bus Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W50,000 - W70,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Urban Zakapa in Concert AX-Korea near Gwangnaru Stn. (line 5, ex. 2). 8 pm. W55,000 - W66,000. ax-korea.co.kr 02-457-5114 December 23rd - 25th Broccoli, You Too in Concert Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). 23rd: 8 pm, 24th: 7 pm, 25th: 6 pm. W55,000. sejongpac.or.kr 1544-1887 Kim Jo-han Christmas R&B Concert: Soul and the City Ewha Women’s University Auditorium. 23rd: 8 pm, 24th: 7 pm, 25th: 6 pm. W88,000 - W110,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-3277-3114 Kim Yeon-woo Christmas Concert: Mr. Big Gymnastics Stadium at Olympic Park near Olympic Park Stn. (line 5, ex.

3). 23rd 8 pm, 24th: 7 pm, 25th: 6 pm.

W80,000 - W120,000. kspo.or.kr 02-410-1114 December 24th Christmas Arts Concert Seoul Art Center near Nambu Bus Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W40,000 - W60,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 No Brain “ㅋㅋㅋ” Concert The concert title refers to the Korean version of “lol.”

AX-Korea near Gwangnaru Stn. (line 5, ex. 2). 6 pm. W55,000. ax-korea.co.kr 02-457-5114 Kim Kyung-ho: Rock Christmas Kunkuk University. 4 & 8 pm. W88,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-450-3114 December 24th Glen Check in Concert Sangsang Madang Art Space in Hongdae near Sangsu Stn. (line 6, ex. 1). 8 pm. W35,000. sangsangmadang.com 02-330-6200 December 24th - 25th 2AM in Concert: Take Care of Christmas Get groovy with this popular four-member boy band. Jamsil Student Gym. 24th: 6 pm, 25th: 5 pm. W55,000 - W110,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-422-2285 Sweet Sorrow Christmas Concert: A Beautiful Moment Hwajeong Gymnasium at Korea University near Anam Stn. (line 6). 24th: 7 pm. 25th: 6pm. W77,000 - W99,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-3290-4106 December 25th Boohwal Christmas Concert Legends of the Korean rock scene. Grand Hilton Hotel. 3 & 7 pm. W79,000 - W120,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-3216-5656

10 Magazine December 2011 | 53

SEOUL CALENDAR December 25th Yuhki Kuramoto and Friends Where new age music in the West has Enya and Yanni, Japan has Yuhki Kuramoto. Seoul Art Center near Nambu Bus Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 2 pm. W30,000 W100,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 December 27th Deli Spice Concert Modern rock band Deli Spice makes accessible music that appeals to a wide segment of the market. AX-Korea near Gwangnaru Stn. (line 5, ex. 2). 7 pm. W77,000. ax-korea.co.kr 02-457-5114

SEOUL

December 29th Kumho Asiana Soloists The program consists of Ravel’s Sonata for Violin and Cello, Shostakovich’s String Quartet No.8 in c minor, and Tchaikovsky’s Piano Trio in a minor. Kumho Art Hall near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 7). 8 pm.

W30,000. kumhoarthall.co.kr 02-6303-7700 December 29th - 31st Opera Gala Big Night Seoul Art Center near Nambu Bus Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 29th, 31st: 8 pm. W50,000 W100,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 2011 DJ DOC in Concert Olympic Park, SK Olympic Handball Gymnasium.

8 pm. W88,000 - W99,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-410-1114 December 30th - 31st Countdown Fantasy 2011-2012 Two days of shows with bands including Dear Cloud, Mongni, Lee Seung Yeol, Toxic, Han Heejung, and 10cm on the 30th and Gate Flowers, The Moonshiners, Achime, Yozoh, The Koxx, Peter Pan Complex, and Clazziquai on the 31st. AX-Korea near Gwangnaru Station (line 5). Starts at 3:30 pm each day. One-day tickets start at W55,000, two-day tickets start at W99,000. ax-korea.co.kr 02-457-5114

An experience to remember...

Itaewon 116-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Tel: 02-790-7977

Samcheong-dong 31-1 Samcheong-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Tel: 02-730-7461 Dogok-dong 464 Dogok-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Tel: 02-574-4468

Business Hour : 11:30am - 10:30pm

www.mapletreehouse.co.kr

54 | 10 Magazine December 2011

December 31st Countdown Seoul 2012 See in the new year at Times Square in southwestern Seoul with bands including French duo Housse de Racket and Korean bands Mongoose, Line 3 Butterfly, One Punch, and Summer Here Kids. Near Yeongdeungpo Stn. (line 1, ex.3). 7 pm - 5 am. W99,000 at the door W77,000 in advance. countdownseoul.com Bobby Kim and Gummy in “The Vocalist” Concert Two great vocalists are accompanied by two great musicians, Kim Hyeong-sik and Son Mu-hyeon. COEX at Samseong Stn. (line 2, ex. 5 & 6). 6 & 11 pm. W66,000 - W121,000. coex.co.kr 02-6000-0114 Yiruma Concert: The Best Adult contemporary pianist Yiruma is famous for powerful songs like “When the Love Falls” and “Kiss the Rain.” This nationwide concert series is his first after a two-year absence. Sangmyung Art Center at Sangmyeong University in northern Seoul. 4 & 8 pm. W55,000 - W88,000. smarts.or.kr 02-2287-7186

Film Ongoing IMAX Screening “Legend of Flight” Soar through the sky with the planes on the huge IMAX screen. This documentary follows the development of airlines in the 20th century and focuses on the design and production of the revolutionary Boeing 787 Dreamliner, which was released in 2009. 63 Building near Yeouinaru Stn. (line 5, ex. 4). 43 min. Screenings throughout the day.

63.co.kr 02-789-5663

Through December 4th Robert Altman Retrospective Six movies will be shown to commemorate the late Robert Altman. This influential director captured the reality of American society in films such as Nashville.

Cinematheque Seoul Art Cinema. Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex. 4) or Jongno-3-ga Stn. (line 5, ex. 5). W6,000. cinematheque. seoul.kr 02-741-9782 December 4th Free Screening of 63 Years On This documentary with English subtitles focuses on the experience of five former comfort women to show the horrible consequences of this Japanese military practice. Jogeysa Temple in Seoul near Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex. 6). 2 - 4 pm. houseofsharing.org December 12th Free Screening of Japanese Film Kanki No Uta Once a month, a free Japanese film plays at the Seoul Art Cinema. This comedy talks about two choirs booked for the same day.

Cinematheque Seoul Art Cinema. Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex.4). Free (300 seats). 7 pm.

02-741-9782 cinematheque.seoul.kr

Family & Community Through December 15th Woodwind Instrument Experience Kids will love this chance to play woodwind instruments. 1m Classic Art Hall, next to the Robot Museum near Hyehwa Stn. (line 4). Wed & Thu 4 pm. W20,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-743-5001 Through December 25th Traditional Culture Experience Mi Su Da Try on hanbok (Korean traditional clothing), drink tea, and listen to Korean music with English, Chinese, and Japanese guides. Seoul Namsan Gukakdang near Chungmuro Stn. (line 3, ex. 3 & 4). 90 min. W50,000. Tue - Sat 4 pm. Closed Mon & Sun. 90 min. sejongpac.or.kr 02-399-1114 December 1st - 3rd Seoul Int’l Quilt Festival A great opportunity to not only appreciate beautiful quilts but also try making your own Christmas quilt. COEX near Samsung Stn. (line 2, ex. 6). siqf.com 031-785-5419 December 9th - 25th Choi Hyun-woo Magic Concert: Imagination Theater A magic show for people who have seen through every trick. Visitors get to participate in the show and even learn some sleight-ofhand from veteran magician Choi Hyun-woo. Yonsei University Culture & Art Center near Shinchon Stn. (line 2, ex.

3). Weekday: 8 pm. Sat. 3 & 7 pm. Sun. 2 & 6 pm. Closed Mon. W55,000 W88,000. wsmi.co.kr 1566-5490 December 30th - 31st Lee Eun-gyeol Magic Show with a Meal Would you like some fries with your magic show? Held at the Grand Hilton Seoul. 30th: 6:30 pm, 31th: 12:30 & 6:30 pm. With meal W99,000 - W132,000, without W55,000 - W88,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-3216-5656

Education & Conferences Through February 28th This is Korea 1970KHz: History of Korean Pop Culture Learn about the life of Koreans during the 60s and 70s at this interactive exhibit. Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8).

10 am - 7 pm. W12,000 - W20,000. sejongpac.or.kr 1544-1887

Nightlife

t 10 Veterinarians t 10 vet burses t State of the art equipment CT, MRI, Digital X-Ray, U/S, Laser therapy

t International pet transportation service

We’ve all been there. Friday night rolls around and whatever promises you made to yourself about a quiet weekend have been swept away by the time you finish work. To make the most of a city that never sleeps, however, it’s crucial to have a solid game plan.

SEOUL

Lining Up Your Night on the Town

25% Discount

for US soldiers and English teachers Coolpet Building, 35-3 Samseong-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 02-3443-8275 www.dr-pet.co.kr

I

f you are looking to party all night and are hoping to see the first rays of sunlight glint off the 63 Building as you cab home at 7 am, the most important thing to remember is pacing. There are plenty of 24-hour restaurants all over Seoul so a smart move is waiting until after 9 to eat. A big galbi dinner, eaten slowly with plenty of bottles of beer and soju, will set you up nicely. Head to a local corner store, pick up some drinks for the road and take your time exploring the various back alleys and hidden bars.

If you find yourself in the Hongdae university district, head up the rickety staircase to Bar Da (다) for wine, cheese and jazz. Visit Robins Square for their cocktails and low lighting. Get amongst the crowd in the park to see an impromptu rap battle while sipping a bottle of the Makgeolli Man’s finest. When you finally get to the club, take full advantage of the well-priced drinks most places serve and find a spot deep in the dance floor.

Commit to a solid three hours of dancing, but if you feel yourself starting to fade or the overstuffed nightclubs become suffocating, slip out to a noraebang (노래방, private karaoke) for some complimentary ice cream and wild renditions of 80s hits. Nothing wakes you up better than a 5 am singing marathon from one of the front rooms at Luxury in Hongdae, where you have a whole street of people below to impress. It takes about two minutes to go from “I couldn’t possibly!” to wrestling your friends for the mic. If you’ve made it this far, stop by a hookah bar for a delicious apple shisha and White Russian before either sliding into a cab or catching the first train home. Well done: you took on Seoul and won.

Words by N i n a H o ffm a n 10 Magazine December 2011 | 55

SEOUL CALENDAR December 1st - February 26th The Gold Treasures of Ukraine Exhibition These golden artifacts shed new light on the Scythian Period in the Ukraine. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 11 am - 7 pm.

W10,000 sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 December 1st - 4th Korean Invention Patent and Trademark-Design Right Exhibitions COEX will be hosting these two exhibitions over the course of four days. kinpex.org, trademark-design.org December 2nd - 4th The 6th SBS Wedding Fair Get useful wedding info, and then head outside for a date in the park right beside the aT Center in Yangjae-dong. 11 am - 8 pm. sbsweddingexpo.co.kr 02-3445-4788

SEOUL

December 6th - 8th Digital Media & Content Fair Exhibitions include smart media, 3D multimedia, broadcast platforms, equipment, and more. COEX near Samsung Stn. (line 2, ex. 6) digimfair.or.kr 02-6000-6685 December 6th - 11th Korea Technology Week The main events include Korea’s best technology awards ceremony, smart phone film festival, and more. COEX near Samsung Stn. (line 2, ex. 6). tfestival.pentachord. com 02-6009-4351 December 8th - 11th Home & Table Deco Fair This fair is mainly composed of forums, seminar and classes from which you can learn practical information and tips about interior design. COEX near Samsung Stn. (line 2, ex. 6). 10 am - 7 pm. hometabledeco.co.kr December 13th A Gayageum Evening with Jocelyn Clark In this lecture hosted by the Royal Asiatic Society, musicologist Dr. Jocelyn Clark will first explain about the gayageum, a traditional Korean string instrument and then perform a program of traditional gayageum music.

Residents’ Lounge at Somerset Palace.

7:30 - 9 pm. Free for members, W5,000 for non-members. raskb.com

Sport & Fitness December 10th Santa Sports Festival This festival consists of a marathon, tug-of-war, and skate race for kids. Fifty percent of the participation fee will be given as aid to the poor. Have fun while also doing a good deed. Olympic Park, Pyeonghwa Square. 9 am - noon. W10,000. santafestival.co.kr 02-2036-9211 December 18th The 10th Han River Marathon 5k, 10k, half, and full to depart from the event square at Yeouido Han River Park at 10 am. W25,000. Register by December 11th. hangangmarathon.co.kr 02-761-6677 December 24th The Boramae Park Marathon 5k, 10k, half, full marathon to depart from Dorimchun (Shindaebang Stn. exit 3) at 10 am. W15,000 - W25,000. Sign up by December 17th. tourmarathon.com 1644-4219 January 1st New Years Marathon 5k, 10k, half, full marathon to depart from Seoul Saek Park near Yeouinaru Stn. (line 5, ex. 2) at 9 am. W20,000 - W30,000. Sign up by December 25th. tourmarathon.com 1644-4219

56 | 10 Magazine December 2011

Dine & Drink Ongoing Korean Cooking Classes and Tours Learn authentic Korean cuisine in English and explore some of Seoul’s more exciting culinary districts with O’ngo Food. ongofood.com 02-3446-1607

Travel Ongoing Palace Tours Youth volunteers are your guides at these free English tours at Deoksugung Palace, taking place every 2nd and 4th Saturday at 10 am & 2:30 pm. Admission to the palace is W1,000. ici@icworld.or.kr 02-3210-3266

Nightlife Ongoing Club Day After a 6-month hiatus, Club Day has returned to Hongdae. As before, it’s held the final Friday of each month.

Entrance to M2, Via DD, NB2, Saab, Qvo, Ska2, and other top Hongdae party spots along with a free drink only costs W20,000. 8 pm - 6 am. theclubday.co.kr Open Mic Night at Bar Ireland Yuki Enjoy the musings of Seoul’s best talent every Thursday night at Bar Ireland Yuki.

Registration begins at 7:30 pm and the show starts at 8 pm. Free admission.

Located near Itaewon Station (line 6, ex.

2), right next to Kraze Burger. itaewonopenmic@gmail.com Quiz Night at Craftworks Every Wednesday at 8:30 pm. Great prizes including W50,000 bar tab for 1st place and prizes from sponsors. Craftworks Taphouse is located near Noksapyeong Stn. (line 6, ex. 2). craftworkstaphouse.com 02-794-2537 Rhyme Time: Spoken Word and Poetry Every 2nd and 4th Thursday, head to Tony’s Aussie Bar in Itaewon for a literary evening. 8 pm. tonysitaewon.com 02-790-0793 Stand Up Seoul Comedy Night Korea’s finest English language comedians deliver monologues and rants about expat life and other topics.

New acts are welcome! The show starts at 9 pm on every first Thursday of each month at the Rocky Mountain Tavern in Itaewon. Facebook: Stand Up Seoul, james.hershberger@gmail.com Sunday Funday Seoul’s newest open mic comedy night, held on the 2nd and 4th Sunday of each month. Head down to the basement of the newly renovated Phillies Pub in Haebangchon at 7:30 (sign up at 7 pm). ekweber2@yahoo.com December 17th - 18th Holiday Comedy Weekend with Improv Boston Seoul City Improv is bringing international comedy mprov sensation Improv Boston to Seoul just before the holidays. On Saturday evening, the troupe will be performing at Moon Night in Itaewon, while Artistic Director Will Luera will hold an “Intro to Improv” class the following day. seoulcityimprov.com December 31st High Light Festival: 2012 Countdown Just a short drive from the show going down at Ax-Korea is the High Light Festival at Walker Hill Theater. Hip-hop and EDM fans can check out Far East Movement, Sebastion, DJ Virman, Justin Michael, Ideotape, and others. 10 pm.

W132,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-323-2838

SEOUL DIRECTORY

Seoul Foreigner Assistance

Insurance

SEOUL

ATEK (Association for Teachers of English in Korea) atek.or.kr Seoul Dasan (City Info) 02-120 Seoul Global Center global.seoul.go.kr 02-1688-0120 Yeoksam English 02-3453-9038 Yeonnam Chinese 02-6406-8151 Seorae French 02-570-6009 Ichon Japanese 02-2199-8882 Itaewon/Hannam English

02-2199-8883~5

discount air tickets, hotels, professional counseling, and package goods. Mon - Fri 10 am - 7 pm, Sat 10 am - 5 pm, Sun 1 - 5 pm.

02-796-9633 Unique Travel Itaewon uniquetravel.co.kr 02-792-0606 Xanadu Travel xanadu.co.kr 02-795-7771

Korean Language

Samsung Fire and Marine Insurance Automobile and motorcycle insurance provided by one of Korea’s most reliable conglomerates. Also available; Life/ Annuities, Business/Fire, Supplemental Medical, Travel Insurance. 010-3232-0625

Learn Korean from a pro.

All of our Korean language teachers have a Masters Degree in Teaching Korean as a Second Language or are getting one. And they all have years of experience teaching people like you!

InterCultural Communications Learn Korean at your home or office from experienced, professional Korean language teachers.

02-512-8443 Accessories

Law Firm

A Few Good Lawyers

US & Korean Attorneys Civil & Criminal

JM Law Group Hard to find a good lawyer in Korea? We at JM Law Group will fight for your legal rights from employment disputes to business transactions. For a free consultation, please email us at kkim@jmlaw.co.kr Radio

On hats & luggage tags

Only takes 1 minute

TBS eFM FM 101.3 American Forces Network

AM 1530 / FM 102.7 Transportation

Noksapyeong Itaewon McDonald’s Market

Burger King Hannam-dong International Arcade

02-796-9052 Ambrosia Customized Embroidery You write it, he’ll sew it! It only takes a minute to have your name or message embroidered on hats, luggage tags, backpacks, T-shirts, ties and jackets.

56-9, Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. mrnameonhat.co.kr 02-796-9052 Travel Agencies

Cosmojin Tour cosmojin.com 02-318-0345 Fides Travel fidestravel.co.kr 02-755-5470 JNC Travel Itaewon Itching to travel?

This travel agent offers worldwide

International Taxi (English Speaking)

1644-2255 Jumbo Taxi Service (more expensive)

02-888-2000 Interactive Subway Map smrt.co.kr Hotels/Accommodations

KoreaHotel.com Korea’s version of Expedia. koreahotel.com 4-5 Star Hotels Astoria 02-2268-7111 COEX InterContinental 02-3452-2500 Courtyard 02-2638-3000 Grand InterContinental 02-555-5656 JW Marriott 02-6282-6262 Millenium Hilton 02-753-7788 Renaissance 02-555-0501 Ritz-Carlton 02-3451-8000 Hostels Guest House Baenang Yongsan ghbaenang.com 010-9071-4641

10 Magazine December 2011 | 57

SEOUL DIRECTORY Guesthouse Korea Jongno guesthouseinkorea.com 02-3674-2205 Bebop Guesthouse Hongdae bebop-guesthouse.com, 070-8261-4835 Kim’s Guesthouse Hongdae kimsguesthouse.com 02-337-9894 Namu Guesthouse Hongdae namugh.co.kr 070-8291-4878 Olympic Parktel Jamsil parktel.co.kr/english 02-410-2114 Seoul Backpackers Myeongdong seoulbackpackers.com 02-3672-1972

Fine Art Class Myeongdong 7 -1 pm Fridays. cafe.daum.net/artd

02-771-2026 Ballet Stretching Itaewon Dance your days away with a diverse selection of classes available: child ballet, yoga, tae bo, yoga for pregnant women, pilates, diet dance, and even salsa classes.

Private training available. Mon–Fri open 9 am–10 pm. 124-7 Itaewon-dong, yongsan-gu. 010-9309-9021

Medical Services

SEOUL

A Plus Dental aplusnetworks.co.kr 02-3442-7616 Hus Hu Dental & Skin Clinic hus-hu.com 02-519-8013 Jaseng Hospital of Oriental Medicine Are you suffering from back or neck pain? Visit the non-surgical spinal specialists. jaseng.net 02-3218-2167 Korea Counseling Psychological Association krcpa.or.kr 02-498-8293 Korea HIV/AIDS Prevention & Support Center khap.org 02-927-4322 New York Wholistic Care Dr. Vincent Jong, an experienced New York chiropractor, uses pilates/yoga and body balancing therapy to help you reenergize your mind and achieve optimal health.

F2, 736-21 Hannam-dong, Yongsangu. nywc.co.kr 02-792-2296 Ra Dental Clinic 02-569-8745 Tufts Dental Clinic 02-553-7512

3alleypub.com 02-749-3336 Bar Rouge Itaewon Luxurious wine and tapas bar in the basement of the JW Marriot in Gangnam. Happy hour Tue - Thu 6 - 9 pm.

02-6282-6763 Beer O’Clock The bar in Sinchon has darts and several sports on big-screen TVs with great food. The Gyeongnidan location will satisfy your Canadian-style pizza needs. Beer O’Clock serves up good times.

Sinchon: 02-333-9733 Berlin Noksapyeong Combining a restaurant, cafe and lounge, Berlin boasts a varied menu, plus wines and all types of music. Noksapyeong St. (line 6). 457-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. awakeinseoul@gmail.com 02-749-0903

Speaking Listening Diction Presentation 그레고리 에트하트 영어 프레젠테이션, 비즈니스 영어, 메디컬 영어, 영어회화, 취업 유학 준비, 영어발표, TOEFL 말하기와 작문

B1 Itaewon One of the most hopping bars in Itaewon on any given night, with guest DJs and a good vibe.

7 pm - 3 am.

02-749-6164

Gr egor y Ethear t 01 0-9930-7656

WY Dentistry Gangnam Better than your dentist back home. Dr. Yoo is a US-trained and licensed dentist with over 20 years of clinical dental experience serving the expat community since 1996. wydent.com

02-514-5575

Sign up for the Weekly 10 Every Thursday recieve an email with the weeks top 10 hottest events in Korea and tons of freebies! Sign up now to get the weekly 10 delivered to your inbox weekly.

WWW.10MAG.COM/WEEKLY10 58 | 10 Magazine December 2011

Classes

Access Consciousness What if the life you imagined was actually possible?

Regular classes held in Seoul & around Korea. Contact Nate at 010-6285-6283 or nhkent@gmail.com Bikram Yoga Gangnam Feel the 105°F heat of the original Bikram Yoga with 90-minute classes taught by passionate instructors. Behind the Kyobo Tower building, Sinnonhyeon Stn. (line 9, ex.

7). bikramyogakorea.co.kr 02-532-2101 Bellydance Lessons with Eshe Morning, afternoon, and evening classes, plus Sunday classes at the Well Being Studio. navah@live.com

Greg’s English Private effective English conversational speaking and listening lessons for adults, middle and high school students. TOEFL, ILETS gregblex@gmail.com 010-9930-7656 International Guides of Korea Courses in ice climbing, rock climbing and more. iguidekorea.com Jai Center for Yoga and Health jaicenter.co.kr 02-3443-9642 Pottery Classes at Yido Academy Gahoe-dong in Seoul. Fri 10 - 12 am. yidostyle@hanmail.net 02-744-0756 Salsa Lessons in English Top Bar near Apgujeong St. Call Crys at 010-4755-4728 Sanirang Alpine Networks This climbing service offers lessons, clinics, and guided tours. sanirang.net/about. html, info@sanirang.net Suseonjae Meditation and Deep Breathing Classes jihye@suseonjae.org 019-201-5958 Wise-Up Workouts Lose weight and get lean in less than 30 days guaranteed? Author and creator of the No. 1 gym-free program is now in Korea. 1 to 1 service. Grab the book “Wise-Up Workouts” at www. wiseupworkouts.com 010-4998-8722 Bars/Lounges/Pubs

Wine Bars Dulce Y Suave Garosugil Stop by this classy Sinsa-dong wine bar for an extensive wine list that won’t break your budget. 5 pm - 3 am. club.cyworld.com/ dulceysuave.

02-515-6750 Vin Ga Apgujeong Immaculate service and a subdued atmosphere make this the wine bar of choice for dinner parties and business meetings. Podo Plaza building near Apgujeong St. podoplaza.co.kr 02-516-1761 Lounges / PUBS 3 Alley Pub Itaewon Rub shoulders with long-term Seoul expats and try your hands at darts or pool in this comfortable foreigner-owned pub.

116-15 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu.

Between Itaewon This multi-level lounge serves contemporary Italian and Spanish mains, lunch, brunch and tapas in a sophisticated atmosphere with live DJs and a spacious terrace. 124-7 Yongsangu, Itaewon-dong.

02-795-6164 Bliss Itaewon Fresh beats by DJ Shine and a reasonably priced menu.

Itaewon. 4 pm – 4 am.

02-798-1125 BricX Hongdae, Itaewon Chill out at either of BricX’s two locations.

Hongdae 6 pm – 5 am, 마포구 서교동 409-1, B1, 02-3141-5571. Itaewon 7 pm – 5 am, 용산구 이태원동 119-10, B1, bricx.com 02-795-5572 The Bungalow Itaewon This quirky beach-themed bar has sand on the floor, swinging chairs, and candle-lit rooms.

02-793-2344 Coffee Bar K Cheongdam-dong A Japanese franchise, they may just have the best bartenders in town. Mon – Sat 6 pm - 2 am.

02-516-1970 The Concorde Classic and cozy, this wine and martini bar offers an intimate and timeless atmosphere. Reuben sandwiches, quiche, soups and salads available till 1:00 am.

02-749-1210 Craftworks Taphouse Itaewon Whet your whistle with fine craft beers including Korea’s first IPA, and stave off your appetite with some great eats. craftworkstaphouse.com 02-794-ALES Dillinger’s A classic-styled bar with seven beers on tap, great food and drink specials. Come enjoy our large flatscreen TVs, dartboards and Wii games. A great atmosphere for you and your friends.

02-793-7232

Ho Ho o H

Canadian Pub & Restaurant Monday Dry Rib Night Tuesday

ight Wing N

Phillies Haebangchon The legendary local bar is now remodeled and under new ownership. Great burgers and wings.

02-793-2548 Scrooge Pub/Dicken’s Lounge Itaewon A great little sports bar with pool, darts, delicious food and plenty of English-speaking staff. 02-797-8201 Seoul Pub Crawl Meet cool people, play drinking games and party all night long. Where the bars get louder, the drinks get cheaper and the people get better looking. www.seoulpubcrawl. webs.com 010-5839-9257 Seventy Four Cheongdam-dong A beautiful date spot featuring exotic drinks such as cheese martinis, banana mojitos and cuba libres. 7 pm – 4 am.

02-542-7412 Tony’s Aussie Bar & Bistro Itaewon Home of W6000 Guinness & Kilkenny on tap. Non–smoking environment with authentic Aussie food, beer & wine with Monday open mic and Wednesday comedy night. tonysitaewon.com 02-790-0793 Wolfhound Itaewon Terrific Irish/British classic food in a true Irish Pub atmosphere, including shepherd’s pie, toad in a hole, fish n’ chips, bangers n’ mash along with Guinness and Kilkenny on draft. wolfhoundpub.com 02-749-7971

SEOUL

Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong Great home-style Italian cuisine and all-day brunch with an extensive wine, cocktail and beer selection. This is the best that Noksapyeong/Gyeongnidan has to offer.

More info on Facebook: “Noxa Lounge.”

02-790-0776 Platoon Kunsthalle Apgujeong Showcasing underground artists and a fine selection of cutting-edge performances. 11 am – 1 am. Closed Sun. 97-22 Gangnam-gu, Nonhyeondong. kunsthalle.com 02-3447-1191

along with the meanest plate of pork ribs to be found in Seoul. samryans.com

02-749-7933

Burgers & Bar 3F

• W300 / wing • 11 different flavors • W5,500 cocktails Friday Bar special Saturday Live music/DJ Sat/Sun Truck Stop Brunch

www.rockymountaintavern.com 010-5189-2327 010-7196-0857 Rocky Mountain Tavern Itaewon Canadians feel right at home with all the hockey jerseys hanging on the walls and great live music and events, along with some of the best buffalo wings in Korea.

Don’t miss the Stand Up Seoul comedy night the first Thursday of each month. rockymountaintavern.com 010-5775-2327 Roofers Itaewon Come hang out in a warm, friendly atmosphere. Sample the mouthwatering menu, relax on the spacious rooftop and enjoy numerous expat events. Facebook: Roofers Rooftop Bar. 02-749-2970 Sam Ryan’s Itaewon This newcomer to the Itaewon scene offers sports fans eight flat screens throughout the bar

• Winter Beer Special Cass 500 cc only W2,300!

• 2 Beer Pong Tables!

• Best Nachos in Korea!

Sinchon 02-333-1604

Yaletown Sinchon Great food using only the best ingredients. Owned by a former NHL/NBA reporter, request your favorite game to watch! Now featuring “Barcraft.”

02-333-1604 Restaurants

American Chili King Itaewon Beefy burgers and chili served up by owner Kevin Cyr.

10 Magazine December 2011 | 59

SEOUL DIRECTORY

02-795-1303 Bonji Bistro Just behind Itaewon Hotel and under Gecko’s Garden, Bonji Bistro offers a terrific menu of salads, sandwiches, pastas and classic tapas along with an unbeatable bar. The floor-to-ceiling window door-walls open wide, making it the perfect place to be for their delicious weekend brunch. geckosterrace.com 02-795-9656

SEOUL

FRESHLY GROUND BEEF

importer emium wine a direct pr s up with a... meet

professional Ger man baker who introduces Them to a...

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EST. 1984 Burgers are cooked up on their imported rotagrill. Hand-made burgers have become all the craze in Korea, and these are some damn good ones. est1894.com 02-792-1894 The Frypan Delicious fried chicken near Itaewon Station.

02-794-5598 Gallery Through Head here to enjoy fantastic meals, parties, art, and people.

02-798-1900 Gecko’s Terrace The original Itaewon foreigner hangout, with a comfortable atmosphere, delicious food including great sandwiches, salads and pasta, and English-speaking staff that know how to make cocktails and shots right. geckosterrace.com 02-749-9425 Gecko’s Garden Legendary for its gorgeous home-style atmosphere, Gecko’s Garden has now started offering a delicious buffet, with steaks and pasta made to order. Don’t worry; the tapas menu is also still alive and well. geckosterrace.com 02-790-0540 Hollywood Grill The place for Premier League Football and other sports, Hollywood has a great menu of pizza, pasta and steaks along with darts, foosball, pool and Golden Tee. hollywoodgrill.co.kr 02-749-1659

Hangangjin Station

High Street Market (2nd floor)

HIGH STREET MARKET

IP Boutique Hotel Japan Plaza Buy the Way Exit #2 Cheil Building 제일기획

PARK HERE

Hannam-dong Community Center Parking Lot

FUSION RESTAURANT TEL: 02.749.0508

Itaewon Station Subway: Line 2 to Itaewon Station exit #2 Go straight and High Street Market is on your left

Kimchi Pots

Line 6 Hangangjin Station exit #1 Go straight and High Street Market will be on your right

Noksapyeong Station Exit 2

Phone: 02-790-5450, Fax: 02-790-5457 www.highstreet.co.kr www.twiter.com/highstreetseoul 60 | 10 Magazine December May 2011 2011

Gyeongridan

Indigo A cozy cafe boasting terrific international favorites like their chicken pesto sandwich and a legendary weekend brunch at great prices.

Free wifi.

02-749-0508

Naked Grill Terrific Mexican food, salads and steaks, cooked up to order in a trendy atmosphere. 02-749-4225 Pancakes Original Story Itaewon Mon – Sat 9 am – 10 pm. 02-794-0508 Pita Time Haebangchon The salads, pitas and pizzas here provide a low-calorie, healthy meal. 11 am - 10 pm. pitatime.co.kr 02-790-8891

The Pizza Peel Itaewon Offering fresh classic Italian and Western-style pizzas. Enjoy with beer or wine. Hard to find but easy to remember! Dine in or take out.

02-795-3283 Suji’s Itaewon Great American fare in a New York-style bistro atmosphere. sujis.net 02-797-3698 T.G. Brunch Cafe Chef Choi from Hawaii serves a delightful brunch along with his signature burgers, sandwiches, and more. Wine W2,500 for ladies.

Wednesdays wing night: 10 for W3,000.

02-749-8005 Toque Itaewon 02-794-3834 Austrian Chef Meili Itaewon 02-797-3820 BRAZILIAN Copacabana Itaewon For only W29,000 you get all-you-can-eat of 7 different cuts of roasted meat and a tremendous Brazilian buffet. Make your reservations today!

02-796-1660 Bulgarian Zelen Itaewon 02-749-0600 Chinese Ho Lee Chow Serving up the best North American-style Chinatown cuisine in Korea since 1998, with 5 convenient locations in the greater Seoul area to serve you. holeechow.co.kr. Itaewon 02-793-0802, Apgujeong 02-514-1730 Jamshil 02-411-0688, Dogok 02-34614468, Bundang 02-711-9071 Italian Fradia Gangnam Gaze out on a panoramic view of the Seoul skyline as you dine on choice Italian food at this cafe floating on the Han River. fradia.co.kr 02-3477-0033 La Bocca Itaewon We can’t decide whether it’s a cafe, pastry shop, deli, or wine bar, but what we are sure about is that the food is fresh and the taste is divine. labocca.co.kr 02-790-5907 Sortino’s Cucina Itaewon Classic Italian trattoria cuisine in a comfortable, homey atmosphere.

02-797-0488 Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong 02-790-0776 Villa Sortino’s Itaewon An incredible Tuscan Villa interior matches perfectly with some tastefully prepared Italian flavors. Just across from the Itaewon fire station.

02-553-9000 korean Bulgogi Brothers Delicious Koreanstyle barbecue at locations throughout Seoul including Gangnam, Myeongdong (02-319-3351), Seoul Station, and Times Square. 11:30 am - 10 pm. bulgogibros.com Maple Tree House (단풍나무집) Itaewon Classy Korean BBQ in the alley just behind the Hamilton Hotel (other branches are located in Samcheongdong and Dogok-dong). 116-1 Itaewondong, Yongsan-gu.

02-790-7977

Clubs

Club Hamilton Hotel

힐링핸즈

Massage for the soul

Full Body Massage t Foot Massage t Couples Massage Hot Stone Massage t Accupressure t Package Standing Tanning Booth Free weekday hot stone with ANY massage Hamilton Hotel

Live Music

Jazz All That Jazz Itaewon 02-795-5701 Cheonnyeondongando (천년동안도) Daehangno (Hyehwa St. Line4) chunnyun.com 02-743-5555 Club Evans Hongdae clubevans.com 02-337-8361 Club Palm Hongdae clubpalm.co.kr 02-336-9016 Once in a Blue Moon Apgujeong onceinabluemoon.co.kr 02-549-5490

Itaewon Station

Fire Station

healinginseoul@gmail.com www.healinghands.co.kr 010.3158.5572

Fire Station

n

n Statio

Itaewo

spinning house and electro beats.

W30,000 general admission, W40,000 for after club hours. Near Yeoksam St. clubheaven.co.kr 02-3444-4997 J.J. Mahoney’s The drinks don’t come cheap, but this nightclub at the Grand Hyatt is a favorite with the over-30s crowd. 747-7 Hannam 2-dong. seoul.grand.hyatt.com 02-797-1234 Koobar @Blue Spirit Apgujeong Hip music for a classy crowd. 664-11 Shinsadong, Gangnam-gu.

02-518-5115 M2 Hongdae This long-running club is party central for college students. Sun – Thu 8 pm – 4 am, Fri and Sat 7:30 pm – 6 am. Cover starts at W10,000.

367-11 Seogyo-dong Mapo-gu. ohoo.net/m2 02-3143-7573 NB Hongdae, Gangnam Supposedly the first hip-hop club in Korea, it has one bar, two stages, and a packed crowd. clubnb.com 02-326-1716 Q-vo Hongdae A popular hip hop club with strobes pulsing above the dance floor. Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun 8 pm – 4 am and Wed, Fri, Sat 8 pm – 6:30 am.

W10,000 - W15,000. 121-210 Ohoo B/ D 367-1 Seogyo Dong. clubqvo.co.kr 02-3143-7573 Volume Itaewon A true “music lovers” club, Volume is found in the basement of Crown Hotel. Fri and Sat 9 pm - 6 am. W15,000 - W30,000. Crown Hotel B1 clubvolume.com 1544-2635 Woo Bar Check out the split-level lobby lounge for cool music and exclusive parties. No cover charge. 21 Gwangjang-dong wseoul.com 02-465-2222

02-3142-4233

SEOUL

Pulhyanggi Gangnam A tasty concoction of traditional Korean dishes and a contemporary slow-food sensibility, plus performances in the evenings. Close to COEX. 11 am – 10 pm. pulhyanggi.co.kr 02-539-3390 Mexican Amigos Itaewon 02-795-9711 On the Border The #1 American chain hits that craving for fajitas, chimichangas, tacos, burritos, enchiladas and even margaritas. ontheborder.co.kr Sinchon: 02-324-0682 COEX: 02-565-0682 Times Square: 02-2672-0682 Pancho’s Itaewon 02-792-4767 Taco Amigo Itaewon 02-749-5253 Tomatillo Grill Locations at Jonggak Stn., Samseong Stn., and Yeoksam Stn. tomatillo.co.kr 02-734-9225 Middle Eastern Istanbul Noksapyeong 02-796-0271 Marakech Nights Itaewon 02-795-9441 Petra Itaewon 02-790-4433 SPANISH Bodega Jamsil With flamenco every Friday. bodega.co.kr 02-3432-8686 Thai Buddha’s Belly Itaewon A lounge atmosphere with full bar and cocktails along with great authentic Thai food.

02-796-9330 Eat Me Itaewon Thai fusion dining and lounge, late night kitchen in Itaewon.

Relax in the intimate yet casual dining area and outside patio. Sophisticated atmosphere is sure to please.

070-7624-3149 My Thai Itaewon 02-794-8090 Thai Orchid Itaewon 02-517-1135 Thai Garden Itaewon 02-792-8836 Wang Thai Itaewon Prepared by locally trained chefs, Wang Thai offers only the best of Thai food. Enjoy delicious food in an exotic ambience.

02-749-2746~7

KB Bank

Police Station

[ Itaewon Station Exit 3 ] Tel: 793.2333

InterContinental Hotel Oakwood Premier Woori Bank Teheranno

COEX

America Latina Itaewon opens at 8 pm Wednesdays to Sundays and offers Salsa classes. Check Facebook group: Club America Latina in Seoul.

Answer Cheongdam-dong After a shortlived stint as gala restaurant Le Nuit Blanche, the club we all know and love is back. clubanswer.co.kr 02-514-4311 Ben @Blue Spirit Hongdae Great Japanese curry during the day and soju cocktails at night. Hit up the weekend parties. 360-18 Seokyo-Dong, Mapo-Gu. 02-3142-5301 Eden Gangnam Mega club with top DJs, sizzling sound, and model nights. 역삼동 602 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnamgu, Ritz Carlton Hotel. eden-club.co.kr 010-9913-3919 Function Itaewon The boutique club hidden in the fancy Macaroni Market restaurant. Tue, Wed, Thu 6 pm – 2:30 am; Fri and Sat 6 pm-3:30 am. 737-50 Hannnam1-dong Yongsan-gu.

02-749-9181 Heaven Gangnam The newest member of Seoul’s club scene combines top-notch technology with divine DJs

Hyundai Department Store

LINE Line 22 Samseong Stn.

Tokyo Jazz Authentic jazz music performed Mon-Sat, 9:30 pm - 12:30 am by European, American, and Korean musicians. Two minute’s walking distance from the COEX and Grand InterContinental Hotels. 153-44 Samsung-dong.

02-3453-4472

10 Magazine December 2011 | 61

SEOUL DIRECTORY Rock Freebird Hongdae cafe.navercom/ clubfreebird 02-335-4576 Jammers Hongdae jammers.co.kr 02- 325-3914 Just Blues Apgujeong justblues.co.kr 02-542-4788 SoundHolic Hongdae cafe.daum.net/SoundHolic Tattoos

Fresh!

New Taste!

Taco / Burrito / Fajita / Quesadilla Enchiladas / Margarita & Beer

Community

Sunrat Tattoo Hongdae The guys behind the Inkbomb Tattoo Convention bring you old school tattoos, bright colors, and more. Open 1 - 9 pm.

2F Brotherworld, 325-25 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul. sunrattattoo.com 02-336-5698 Beauty

Jay’s Hairdressing Itaewon Stylists trained at Tony&Guy and Vidal Sassoon Academy bring out the best in your hair. 2F 126-17 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. 070-4227-6158 Marie&M Gangnam The right haircut makes all the difference! All staff at this salon are qualified by Vidal Sassoon.

02-512-3798 Tony&Guy Whether it’s a cut, highlight, low light, or hair spa that you want, you’re guaranteed to get professional service from the English-speaking stylists at Toni & Guy. Near Hongik University.

02-338-2773

SINCHON: 02-324-0682 COEX CALT: 02-565-0682 TIMES SQUARE: 02-2672-0682 APGUJEONG: 02-518-0682

www.ontheborder.co.kr blog.naver.com/4ontheborder 62 | 10 Magazine December 2011

Korean Tours

Religious

Gahoe Museum gahoemuseum.org 02-741-0466 World Jewelry Museum wjmuseum.com 02-730-1610 Kimchi Field Museum kimchimuseum.co.kr 02-6002-6456 Kyung-in Museum of Fine Art Kyunginart.co.kr 02-733-4448 Leeum Samsung Museum of Art leeum.org 02-2014-6901 Museum of Korean Traditional Music ncktpa.go.kr 02-580-3130 National Folk Museum nfm.go.kr 02-3704-3114 National Museum of Korea museum.go.kr 02-2077-9000 National Palace Museum of Korea gogung.go.kr 02-3701-7500 Seoul Art Center sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Seoul Museum of Art seoulmoa.seoul.go.kr 02-120 Seoul National Science Museum ssm.go.kr 02-3668-2200 War Memorial warmemo.or.kr 02-709-3139

Massage

Healing Hands Massage Studio healinghands.co.kr 070-7504-8090

• • • •

Gourmet Foods

High Street Market Itaewon Freshbaked bread, choice beef cuts, imported cheese, and value-for-money wines, and all in one shop. 737-24 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu.

02-790-5450

Buddhist Seoul International Zen Center seoulzen.org 02-900-4326 Vairocana International Buddhist Meditation Center 02-735-5347 Jetavana Meditation Center jetavanacenter@gmail.com 02-595-5115 Catholic Bomun 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Chunma 02-765-0870 Dongducheon 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Hannam International Church English, Italian, Spanish, French 02-793-2070 Hyewha-dong Catholic Church

02-764-0221 (press 6) Jinjob 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Keumchon 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Philippine Center Tagalog 02-765-0870 Pastral Center for Labor English, Vietnamese, Thai 02-924-2721 Salesio Labor Center Tagalog, Daelim 1 dong 02-765-0870 Sung-dong Social Welfare Center Tagalog 02-765-0870 Yoksam-dong Church 02-553-0801

Cafes

Catering & Delivery Service Available

Brazilians in Seoul Also known as Brasileiros em Seul, this group meets up on the 3rd Tuesday of each month. alocoreia@gmail.com 010-9631-2133 Gangnam Hills Toastmasters Club Helping you develop oral communication and leadership skills. koreatraining@ yahoo.com 010-8779-1969 Republicans Abroad Monthly meetings, events, and lectures for supporters of the USA Republican Party. kmohay@ hotmail.com 010-8688-9810

Adventure Korea adventurekorea.com 018-242-5536 Korean Safari koreansafari.com 019-542-2955 O’ngo Culinary Tours Korean food tours and cooking classes in Seoul.

Tours and classes are taught by Korean food experts. Experience the culture through the cuisine. ongofood.com 010-6661-7769 Royal Asiatic Society Korea Branch raskb.com 02-763-9483 USO DMZ Tours affiliates.uso.org/korea 02-795-3028 WOW Corea Tour wowcoreatour.com 02-739-3337

Caffé Bene Coffee, gelatos, and waffles are on the menu at the 400 Caffé Bene outlets across Korea. caffebene.co.kr

02-3438-6888

Everyday 11:30 am ~ 10:30 pm

Catholics in South Korea Facebook Group, Annamarie at sunshineamore25@gmail.com Islam Seoul Central Masjid 02-794-7307 Protestant Gwanglim Church 02-2056-5732 International Lutheran 02-794-6274 Jubilee Church 02-569-2293 Korean Rainbow Christian Fellowship

krcf.weebly.com Kumnan Church 02-490-7000 Myungsung Presbyterian 02-440-9000 New Philadelphia Church newphiladelphiachurch.com 02-706-2501 Onnuri Church 02-793-9686 Presbyterian Church of the Lord empcl.org 010-2266-6453 Somang Presbyterian 02-512-9191 Seoul Union Church 02-333-7393 Yoido Full Gospel Church 02-782-4851 Yongsan Baptist Church 02-796-0284

Museums

GYEONGGI CALENDAR foodie find

Design & Fashion Through December 31st Good Ads and Best Ads: New York One Show Awards Meet selected works from the One Show Award of 2010 – 2011. Gyeonggi Museum of Modern Art in Ansan, near Gongdan Stn. (line 4). 10 am – 7 pm. Free. gma.or.kr 031-481-7007

Art Through December 31st Exhibition: The Year of the Rabbit Welcome to the world of rabbits! From traditional paintings and songs to animated characters such as Mashimaro, it is all about rabbits here. Gyeonggi Provincial Museum in Yongin. 10 am - 6 pm. Free. musenet.or.kr 031-288-5300 November 8th - February 19th Tell Me, Tell Me: Modern Art of Korea and Australia 1976 - 2011 This exhibition marks the 50th anniversary of the establishment of diplomatic relations between Korea and Australia. National Museum of Contemporary Art, Seoul Grand Park Station (line 4, ex.4) Shuttle bus every 20 min. 10 am 5 pm. Sat 10 am 8 pm.

Closed Mon. W5,000. moca.go.kr 02-2188-6000

Keepin’ It Local at What’s David’s? Restaurant This savory Italian eatery gives Incheonites an excuse to skip the trip to Seoul.

Located at the end of the Incheon bridge, the Songdo Business District boasts a block of trendy shops and restaurants.

One mouth-watering spot along said strip is an Italian restaurant called What’s David’s? Here one can placate cravings for authentic tomato-based and cream-based pasta dishes such as Pomodoro e Basilico (tomato and basil), Ragu alla Bolognesa (tomato meat sauce), Frutti de Mare su Crema (seafood alfredo), and Carbonara. Pastas range from W12,000 to W15,000 in price.

Many foreigners frequent this eatery, but there are also a good number of Koreans partaking in meals as well. Aside from the true-to-Italy dishes, there are some spicy Koreanized pasta dishes on the menu to cater to local palates. Yet the main draw for all customers is the pizza selection.

Created from freshly made dough, the pizzas are cooked in a traditional fire oven, and are reminiscent of New York crispy thin-crust pizzas. Of the varied selection, the David is what most customers clamor for. Made with chorizo, bacon, salami, onions, green peppers, and mushrooms, this pie is a meat lover’s delight. Equally drool-worthy (and vegetarian friendly) is the Quatro, which consists of gorgonzola, emmental, cheddar, and mozzarella cheeses. And if you want to try Korean-style pizza, there’s also the “Hot Korean,” replete with tteokbokki (떡볶이, sweet-and-spicy rice cake), sliced carrots, and bulgogi toppings.

Each pizza costs a reasonable W20,000.

There are also wines on the menu, though each time I’ve been the bottles in the inexpensive range are mysteriously out and the only choices are W55,000 won and up. If you’re hoping to save some won, move the party to one of the lounges within walking distance, such as Pier 39 or Radio Street.

H o u rs a n d L o c at i o n

Mon - Sat: 11:30 am - 12 am, Sun: 10 am - 10 pm.

Dream City, 3-2 Songdo-dong, Yeonsu-gu, Incheon. 032-833-1225 Words and shots by M i l gem L . R a ba n er a

Through Febraury 26th Tutankhamun: The Pharaoh of Mystery Experience the rich culture of Egypt. More than 1,300 relics of Pharaoh are displayed.

Gwacheon National Science Museum, Seoul Grand Park St. (line 4, exit 5). 9:30 am - 6:30 pm Closed Monday. W12,000. tutkorea.com 02-3677-1500

Theater & Dance Through December 24th Vision: Our Dance Watch Korean dancers demonstrate their repertoire of traditional pieces. Production by Gyeonggi Provincial Dance Company.

Cozy Small Theatre at Gyeonggi Arts Center in Suwon. 5 pm. 90 mins. W5,000 - W10,000. ggac.or.kr 031-230-3313

Concerts December 10th Lim Jae-bum in Concert The charismatic rock singer Lim Jae-bum is back. KINTEX in Goyang (Ilsan) W77,000 - 110,000. 150min. 7 pm. interpark.com 1544-1555 Insooni in Concert: The Fantasia Get ready to give a standing ovation at this acclaimed R&B diva’s concert. KINTEX in Goyang (Ilsan). 120 mins. 7 pm. W77,000 - W110,000 interpark.com 031-810-8114 December 18th Les Petits Chanteurs A La Croix De Bois Christmas Concert Worldclass chorus members sing a cappella for Christmas. You wouldn’t believe that traditional folk songs and carols could be sung so beautifully by boys only.

Seongnam Arts Center near exit 1 of Imae St. 100 mins. 3 pm. W30,000 W70,000 snart.or.kr, 031-783-8000.

December 24th - 25th Brown Eyed Soul Christmas Concert Famous Korean R&B group ‘Brown Eyed Soul’ is having a concert to celebrate the release of their live album. KINTEX in Goyang (Ilsan), Daehwa St. (line 3, ex.

2). 120 min. 24th (7 pm), 25th (6 pm).

W66,000 - W110,000. ticket.interpark.com 031-810-8114 December 30th Yiruma in Concert: The Best The man who began the New Age fever

in Korea starts a tour. His solo piano playing makes you relax and be happy.

Seongnam Arts Center near exit 1 of Imae St. on the Bundang line.

100 min. 8 pm. W40,000 - 80,000. ticket.interpark.com 1588-0766 December 31st SG Wannabe in Concert: The Last Acknowledged as Korea’s best R&B group, SG Wannabe launches its nationwide tour. The fans get the privilege of listening to their latest new digital single ‘How to Love’. KINTEX in Goyang (Ilsan), Daehwa St. (line 3, ex. 2 ). 150 min.

10:30 pm, 7:30 pm. W77,000 -W99,000. ticket.interpark.com 031-810-8114

Education & Conference December 8th - 11th Gyeonggi International Travel Mart In this exhibition, you can buy tour packages, and also goods for winter sports. KINTEX in Goyang (Ilsan), Daehwa St. (line 3, ex. 2 ). kintex.com 031-810-8114

gyeongGI province Transportation

International Taxi (English speaking)

1644-2255 Jumbo Taxi Service (more expensive) 02-888-2000 Radio

US Armed Forces Network Dongducheon AM 1197/FM 88.3 Pyongtaek AM 1440/FM 88.3 Songtan AM 1359/FM 88.5 Uijeongbu AM 1161/FM 88.5 Restaurants

Cafe Nicolia Bucheon European-style café and wine bar. cafenicolia.com

032-329-0526 La Mia Cucina Ilsan The kitchen is always open at this English-friendly Italian pub.

7 pm – 4 am.

010-2327-8882 First Nepal Restaurant Incheon firstnepal.com 032-525-8771 Bars/Lounges/Pubs

The Big Chill Suwon Chill out in a big way with the friendly crowd while enjoying a game of pool, darts, or wii. Opens 8 pm on Wed – Sat and 4 pm on Sun. Facebook group, edwardjorgensen@gmail.com Dublin Bar Bundang Open mic every Wednesday at 9 pm 031-708-7942 Jukjeon Gecko’s Yongin Bundang and Yongin expats should be ecstatic to know that the famous Gecko’s chain is expanding south. geckosterrace.com

031-262-9974 The Park Bucheon There are three kinds of draft beer and cocktails for your thirst, Western food for your hunger, and four LCD TVs for your sports fixation. Jung-dong in Bucheon.

Facebook group 010-3136-0153 Rhythm & Booze Bucheon Open mic nights, sports, concerts, and parties make this a favorite of Bucheon’s expats.

Behind the CGV in Jung-dong. Open at 4 pm on Mon – Fri, 11 am on weekends.

Facebook group 032-323-0161 West Island Ilsan Have a chat with the friendly staff or kick back and watch the fire show on Fri and Sat. 6 pm – 5 am. club.cyworld.com/westisland

031-917-2225 Clubs

Club Psycho Anyang General open mic every 3rd Friday of the month at 11pm. bcmusicworld.com 010-7754-0409

10 Magazine December 2011 | 63

GANGWON CALENDAR Performance December 3rd Special Music Travel: The Moment You Need Music Share the moment that you need music with 8 bands: Delispice, Crying Nut, Galaxy Express, Guckkasten and 4 others. Gangneung Culture Art Hall. 6 pm. W27,500. gmc.gangneung.go.kr 02-326-3085

can make a wish while appreciating the beautiful sunrise. Seaside of Geongpo. gntour.go.kr 033-640-5127

gangwon PROVINCE Hotels/Accommodations

December 16th Pine Tree Song Performance Chosen as the UNESCO’s Cultural Heritage of Humanity, The Preservation Society of Gangneung Dano Festival combined traditional Samulnori, percussion and rock to create unique sounds. Gangnuong Dano Culture Center. 7 pm. danocenter.kr 033-643-1301 December 19th Les Petits Chanteurs A La Croix De Bois Christmas Concert Worldclass chorus members sing a cappella for Christmas. You wouldn’t believe that traditional folk songs and carols could be sung so beautifully by boys only.

Seongnam Arts Center near exit 1 of Imae St. 100 mins. 3 pm. W30,000 W70,000 snart.or.kr, 033-737-3820.

GANGWON

Through December 2012 The Manic Show: Comedy and Magic Magician Choi Hyeon-u and comedian Jo Won-seok created a show that is full of magic tricks and gags. Gangwon Tourist Pension in Jeongsun. 7 pm. Every Saturday and Sunday. W20,000. ticket.interpark.com 033-592-5942

How the Gangwon Do-Gooders Saved Christmas Expats in Gangwon Province hope to bring some good cheer to needy children this holiday season.

Last year, one caring teacher in Gangwon Province brought a world of people together (literally, with Americans, Australians, Chinese, Canadians, Koreans and others) to help orphans at Christmas. He hopes to do it again this year.

The idea came to James Rawson after speaking on the importance of volunteering at a language exchange group in November of 2010. Soon after the talk, he stumbled upon the Korean Kids Orphanage and Outreach Mission (KKOOM). From a list of local organizations the website provided, Rawson chose the sixty-year-old Aemin Orphanage on the outskirts of Chuncheon, Gangwon.

Last year’s Christmas drive was a massive success. Loaded with gifts galore, Rawson and other Gangwonites happily gave up their afternoon to play Santa and hang out at the Aemin Orphange. Seventy children received personalized gifts, and with the surplus of support, the regular Aemin volunteers were each given an E-mart gift certificate.

How did he do it, you ask? Rawson, armed with goodwill, sought out do-gooders via social networking. He collaborated with the orphanage and listed the age, gender, and size of the children on an open Facebook group. He sent regular updates on the children that still needed to be sponsored and advised the “Santas” on what the children needed most. He collected gifts or cash and in just a couple of weeks all the children had sponsors.

It was that easy.

G e tt i n g T h e r e

Learn more about the Korean Kids Orphanage and Outreach Mission at kkoom.org. With HOPE, based out of Seoul, you can volunteer your teaching skills (alwayshope.or.kr). And if you’re into animals, see if your local vet or shelter is looking for volunteers (koreananimals.or.kr).

Words by J u di t h A n n Cl a nc y and shot by Ash ley H a rdi ng

64 | 10 Magazine December 2011

Family & Community December 2nd - 5th Sailfin Sandfish Festival Come and have a delicious sailfin sandfish. You can have it grilled or with Korean traditional noodle. You can also catch sailfin sandfish here! tour.yangyang.go.kr 011-373-0637 December 6th - 7th Puppet Play - Hansel & Gretel See the famous story again and feel the innocence of childhood. Hongcheon Culture Art Center. 10 am, 11 am, 2 pm. gwcf.or.kr 033-256-7106 December 10th - 11th Poong Poong Bubble show Children’s TV series hero Poong Poong and bubble artists present a show where children can participate. Let your sons and daughters have a fantastic time with lights, dances and colorful bubbles. Chuncheon Gangwon Univ. Baeckryung Art Center. 10th 11 am, 2 pm, 4 pm. 11th, 11 am, 2 pm. W22,000 - 33,000. kwbc.co.kr 033-250-7200 December 13th - 25th Puppet Play: Christmas Gift With the setting of Christmas, a cozy story warms up your heart. Chuncheon Puppet Theater.

Weekdays 4 pm, weekend 11 am, 2 pm, 4 pm. cocobau.com 033-242-8450 December 22nd - February 5th Peongchang Trout Festival You can catch fish, enjoy a ride on a sled, play ice soccer, and camp here! Shuttle buses available from Seoul and Daegu. festival700.or.kr 033-336-4000 December 31st Jeongdongjin Sunrise Festival Jeongdongjin is known as the best place to view the beautiful sunset. Check out the special package trips, such as the Goldcoast Cruise. jeongdongjin.co.kr 033-640-5127 December 31st Geongpo Sunrise Festival A concert, film festival and camping will be held on the eve of the sunrise festival. You

Hotel Inter-Burgo Wonju wonju.inter-burgo.com 033-766-8000 W Hotel Wonju w-hotel.co.kr 033-742-5454

Foreigner Assistance Chuncheon Online Info tour.chuncheon.go.kr/eng

Medical Services Gangwon National University Hospital Chuncheon knuh.or.kr/html/index.asp

033-258-2000 Gangnam Hospital Chuncheon ekangnam.co.kr 033-240-7000 Hyundai Animal Clinic Chuncheon dog7582.co.kr 033-256-7582 Ye Dental Clinic Chuncheon ccye.co.kr 033-262-2078

Museums Byeolmaru Observatory Yeongwol yao.or.kr 033-374-7460 Chuncheon Animation Museum animationmuseum.com 033-245-6444 Chuncheon Makguksu Museum makguksumuseum.com 033-250-4134 Forest Art Museum Hoengseong jjsoup.com 033-342-6833 Haslla Art World Gangneung haslla.kr 033-644-9411 Ilhyun Art Museum Yangyang ilhyunmuseum.or.kr 033-670-8450 Institute of Traditional Korean Cooking Pyeongchang ktfce.com/ktfce.pdf 033-333-1012 Joseon Folk Painting Museum Yeongwol minhwa.co.kr 033-375-6100 Marisorigol Musical Instrument Museum Hongcheon great.go.kr 033-430-2016 Mooee Arts Center Pyeongchang mooee.co.kr 033-335-6700 Sokbong Ceramic Museum Sokcho dogong.net 033-638-7711 Sokcho Museum Sokcho sokchomuse.go.kr 033-639-2977 Teddy Bear Farm Sokcho teddyfarm.net 033-636-3680 Wonju Hanji Museum Wonju wjhanji.co.kr 033-734-4739

CHUNGCHEONG CALENDAR Art Through December 4th Karsh: The Master of Portrait Photography Karsh’s second exhibition in Korea presents photographs of significant figures from the 20th century, such as Andy Warhol, Nelson Mandela, Marc Chagall, Elizabeth Taylor and more.

In addition to these portraits, there is also a section for hands and landscapes.

Hotel Inter-Burgo Exco Arto Gallery in Daegu. 10:30 am - 7 pm. W8,000. karshkorea.co.kr 1566-1360

Performances December 2nd YB Concert – Youth One of the most famous rock bands in Korea, YB (Yun Do-hyeon Band), will sing their hearts out as they reminisce their youth when they formed this band. Only through their music, they will prove to their fans that their passion for rock is always progressive. With Galaxy Express, YB will rock you once again. Cheongju Stadium. 8 pm. W77,000 - W99,000. concerthouse.co.kr 043-222-7200 December 11th Paik Kun-Woo in Recital Meet the laureate of the Naumburg and Busoni International Piano Competitions, Paik Kun-Woo, who has performed with worldfamous orchestras including the London Symphony Orchestra and Orchestre National de France. This December the beloved pianist will enchant us with Beethoven, Brahms and the piano Sonata in B minor.Cheongju Art Hall. 6 pm. W60,000 - W100,000 jbnews.com 1544-1555

December 13th - 18th Babbling Comedy Tired of your routine? Why not join Ongalssi who can help you forget exhaustion and simply make you laugh throughout the show?

This team has won the hearts of people at the Edinburgh Festival. CMB Expo Arts Hall. 13th - 16th: 7:30 pm/17th - 18th: 4 pm, 7:30 pm. W22,000 - W55,000. ticket.interpark.com 1588-9285 December 29th Kenya Jirani Children’s Choir Although they grew up in an impoverished environment, they have kept their hopes high through their firm inner strength.

Meet this innocent group of angels at Cheongju Art Center. 7:30 pm. W22,000 - W55,000. cbinews.co.kr 043-250-0040

Family & Community December 3rd - 4th Child Nanta: Chefs Enjoy the traditional Korean rhythms while the four Nanta chefs cook in the setting including the ocean and also in the space! CMB expo art hall in Daejeon. Dec. 3rd: 11 am, 2 pm, 4 pm. Dec. 4th 1:30 pm. 1st floor W40,000 2nd floor W30,000. cmbart.com 042-867-9053 Through January 15th Have Fun with Some Dirt Remember making sandcastles when you were a kid? Here’s an opportunity for your children to play with dirt as well but more creatively. Chungcheongbuk-do Students Educational and Cultural Center

discov ery

December 16th - 18th 2011 Yeongdong Dried Persimmons Festival Along with the dried persimmons, exhibitions and various activities for children await you! Yeongdonggun Youth Center in Yeongdong. 16th: 9 am - 18th: 8 pm. 043-740-3311 December 31st - January 1st Maryang Sunrise Festival Begin the New Year with picturesque sunrise.

Celebrate the New Year with Gugak performances, live Rock bands concert and everyone’s all-time favorite activity, fireworks! Chungnam Seocheongun Maryangpogu. tour.seocheon.go.kr 041-950-4042

CHUNGCHEONG PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance Daejeon International Community Center dicc.or.kr 042-223-0789 Daejeon jungwonh@hotmail.com

Classes Yegok Natural Dye Workshop Okcheon-gun Dye clothing or make natural soap. yegok.co.kr 043-733-0978

Hotels/Accommodations New Korea Hotel Asan 041-542-8151 Onyang Hot Spring Hotel Asan 041-545-2141 Cheonan Central Hotel Cheonan 041-564-9100 Yuseong Hotel Daejeon 042-822-9591 The Sky Blue Bird Seosan 011-382-1862 Golden Wave Taean 041-675-2008

Museums Alcohol Museum: Liquorium Chungju liquorium.com 043-855-7333 Gonam Shell Mound Museum Taean-gun Anmyeon Island museum.taean.go.kr 041-670-2337 Jincheon Bell Museum Jincheon-gun jincheonbell.net 043-539-3850 Korea Traditional Architecture Museum Yesan-gun English site: ktam.or.kr 041-337-5877

Medical Services Konyang International Health Care Center Daejeon kihcc.kyuh.co.kr 042-600-9978 Sun Hospital Daejeon 042-220-8000

Restaurants/Supermarkets Gasan Korean, Cheonan 041-561-9500 Spain House Spanish, Cheonan

041-571-7474 Olive Farms Buffet, Cheongju

043-215-3311

Uirimji Offers Lakeside R&R Trade in a dull afternoon in the city for a fun-filled day at the Uirimji Lake in Jecheon.

If you’re looking for an escape from the crowds, let Uirimji Lake pull you away from the neon glare of the big city. Just two hours southeast of Seoul in Chungcheongbuk-do’s Jecheon can be found one of Korea’s oldest reservoirs. The man-made lake attracts tourists every weekend of the year. An easy twokilometer-long path encircles the reservoir. Whether you’re there to stroll down the path or just listen to the sound of the waterfall, Uirimji won’t disappoint.

Parkland is Uirimji’s small amusement park. While it mostly caters to youngsters, some rides like the Disco and Viking have teenagers and adults wailing like school children. Inside Parkland, would-be Babe Ruths can take a swing at the batting cages while golf enthusiasts can stop by the driving range, located a five-minute-walk away. You can even try your hand at archery during your day at the lake. There is no fee to get into Parkland, but each ride costs W3,000 for adults.

Uirimji is surrounded by several mountains that are great for hiking. One popular hike is Yongdusan, just a short walk from the lake. Give yourself an hour to reach the summit. Walking north towards Yongdusan will take you to another smaller and more serene reservoir close to the campus of Semyung University. This area is not far from the main attraction where holidaymakers are paddling swans and sipping on lattes.

G e tt i n g T h e r e

Jecheon is a transportation hub smack dab in the middle of Korea; it won’t be hard to find a direct bus going there from any city. Once you arrive at the bus terminal or train station, hop in a cab and say, “Uirimji” (의림지). A taxi will cost about W4,000 from the bus terminal and W5,000 from the train station.

Words and shots by C h elsi e Koz er a

Bars/Lounges/Pubs Rolling Stones Cheonan 041-562-9824 MJ Cheongju “MJ Bar” on Facebook.

043-273-8366 Road King Cheongju 010-8301-5936 Blue Moon Cheongwon 043-285-0399 Brickhouse Sports Bar & Grill Daejeon “The Daejeon Brickhouse” on Facebook,

010-9867-0921 J-Rock Daejeon 010-4564-7721 Santa Claus Daejeon “Santa Claus 2008” on Facebook, 042-825-5500 The Shisha House Daejeon “Welcome to the Shisha House” on Facebook.

042-825-4157 042-471-3373 Sponge Daejeon

Live Music Barker’s Live Bar Gyeryong

042-841-0470 Club In Sky 2 Daejeon 042-223-7117

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December 13th Les Petits Chanteurs A La Croix De Bois Christmas Concert Worldclass chorus members sing a cappella for Christmas. You wouldn’t believe that traditional folk songs and carols could be sung so beautifully by boys only.

Seongnam Arts Center near exit 1 of Imae St. 100 mins. 3 pm. W30,000 W70,000 snart.or.kr, 043-297-1111.

in Cheongju. 10:20, 11:05 am, 12:35, 2:20, 3:05, 3:50, 4:35, 5:20 pm. adult W10,000 under 14 W15,000. 1544-1952

JEOLLA CALENDAR discov ery

Art December 12th Wedding Exhibition All you need for a wedding is here! Wedding dresses, tuxedos, as well as props. You can also purchase some of the items. It’s a great way to get some ideas for your upcoming wedding! Kim Daejung Convention Center in Gwangju. kdjcenter.or.kr 062-611-2228

Art Through January 29th Faces of Jeonbuk People Portraits that are chosen by the Korean government as tangible cultural assets of Jeollabuk-do are displayed. These portraits show the disposition of the significant figures of the province. Jeonju National Museum.

9 am – 6 pm. Closed on Monday. Free. jeonju.museum.go.kr 063-223-5651 Through February 12th Special Exhibition: Examinations of the Ancients Jeonju National Museum displays exam papers, answer sheets and certificates of Gwageo (the highestlevel state examination to select the best administrative officials for the state’s bureaucracy during the Goryeo and Joseon Dynasty). Jeonju National Museum. 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Monday.

Free. jeonju.museum.go.kr 063-223-5651

Performances Ongoing Sinpan Norum: 12 Acts Enjoy a new performance, a combination of the Korean traditional opera and Pansori, which is a genre of Korean traditional music. Yewondang at the National Arts Center for Korean Folk Performing Area in Namwon. Every 4th Saturday. 4 pm ntmc.go.kr 063-620-2324

Feline Fun in Gwangju JEOLLA

For many expats, one of the most difficult things about moving to Korea is leaving their beloved pets behind. Meanwhile, busy schedules and small apartments make owning a pet impractical for many Koreans. Coffee and Cat, which occupies a large second-floor room in the heart of the Gwangju downtown shopping district, offers an unusual solution.

Here, customers can find themselves sharing their coffee with a calico, their mocha with a manx or their tea with a tabby.

The café is designed with a multitude of tunnels, boxes, beds, climbing posts, and a ceiling-level walkway running around the room. It’s every kitten’s dream playground—and it’s home to 15 cats of varying ages and breeds who share the space with the café’s patrons.

The animals are well cared for and have a private room they can retreat into if they don’t feel like human company. Customers are asked not to disturb sleeping cats, but the majority of the café’s residents are wide awake and jumping around the room with their two-legged visitors. Customers are free to pet, stroke and play with any of the cats, who clearly enjoy all the attention. Entry is free, but visitors are expected to buy a coffee, tea or soft drink, most of which cost around W6,000. It’s a relaxing and enjoyable way to spend a few hours, and if you’re a cat lover, you’re guaranteed to leave with a smile on your face.

G e tt i n g T h e r e

Coffee & Cat can be found on Chungjang-ro in Gwangju’s main downtown district. It’s on the second floor at the post office intersection, with the entrance on the right. Open hours are 12 – 11 pm.

Words and shots by A n dy C l ay 070-4241-2581

66 | 10 Magazine December 2011

December 3rd Jang Yoon-Jeong Concert Known as the Queen of Trot, Jang Yoon-Jeong whose songs have become huge hits is once again ready to awe the audience. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 110 mins. 3 & 7 pm. W44,000 - W88,000 ticket.interpark.com 1644-0488 December 10th SG Wannabe Concert ‘The Last’ Acknowledged as Korea’s best R&B group, SG Wannabe, launches its nationwide tour. Fans get the privilege of listening to their latest new digital single ‘How to Love’. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 120 min. 3 pm, 7:30 pm. W77,000 -W99,000. sori21.co.kr 053-428-1369 December 11th Yiruma Concert ‘The Best’ The man who began New Age fever in Korea starts a tour. His solo piano playing is powerful and moving. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 6 pm. W44,000 - W77,000. ticket.interpark.com 1588-0766 December 16th Les Petits Chanteurs A La Croix De Bois Christmas Concert Worldclass chorus members sing a cappella for Christmas. You wouldn’t believe that traditional folk songs and carols could be sung so beautifully by boys only.

Seongnam Arts Center near exit 1 of Imae St. 100 mins. 3 pm. W30,000 W70,000 snart.or.kr, 063-270-8000 December 24th - 25th Kim Gun-Mo: The 20th Anniversary Tour Kim Gun-Mo, a singer who has written a new page in the history of music in Korea by selling over 280 million CDs, undertakes grand concerts in Korea, Japan and the U.S. You can get his latest

limited edition album at the concert.

Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 150 min. 24th: 7 pm, 25th: 5 pm. W77,000 - W110,000. ticket.interpark.com 15881015, 1544-1555

Family & Community Through February 5th Surisuri Masuri This 3D modern arts exhibition is great for children and adults.

It is easy to comprehend and highly educational. Gwangju Museum of Art. 9 am – 6 pm. Adults W500, Teens W300, Children W200. artmuse.gwangju.go.kr 062-510-0149

Sport & Fitness January 8th The 7th Yeosu Expo International Marathon 10K, half and full marathon.

Departs from Yeosu City Expo Transfer parking lot at 10 am. W15,000 - W30,000.

Register by December 16th. ysmarathon.co.kr 1644-4219

Dine & Drink Through December 4th Gwangju Fermented Food Exhibition Find out what other fermented food Korea offers beside spicy kimchi.

Kim Daejung Convention Center in Gwangju. kdjcenter.or.kr 062-611-2228

JEOLLA PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance Gwangju International Center gic.or.kr 062-226-2733 Gwangju Blog gwangjublog.com Inside Jeonju insidejeonju.com The Jeonju Hub thejeonjuhub.com

Religious Services Antioch Presbyterian Church Jeonju andiok.kr 063-274-3228 Iri Joongang Church Iksan 0 63-851-4311 Musang Temple Muan-gun 042-841-6084

Hotels/Accommodations Gwangju Youth Hostel 062-943-4378 Ramada Plaza Gwangju ramadagwangju.com 062-717-7000

Radio TBS eFM Gwangju FM 98.7 US Armed Forces Network Gunsan

AM 1440/FM 88.5 Gwangju FM 88.5

Live Music Venues Bars/Lounges/Pubs Art & Travel Cafe Jeonju Open mic nights every Wednesday from 9 pm.

Facebook group 011-9437-0208 Deepin Jeonju Popular expat bar with Texas Holdem on Sundays.

019-9646-1028 Led Zeppelin Art Space Jeonju Hosts underground bands both expat and Korean. cafe.daum.net/k250073

018-607-6321 Radio Star Jeonju Under the 7-11 in Junghwasan-dong. 011-9444-9609 Speakeasy Gwangju The fun never stops at this fantastic bar owned and operated by honest Irishman Derrek Hannon.

010-4713-3825 San Antonio Latin Bistro Suncheon Suncheon surprises with this Latinthemed restaurant and bar. Facebook group, pyroz@hotmail.com 061-724-2234

Ad space donated by 10 Magazine

Korean Kids and Orphanage Outreach Mission

GYEONGSANG calendar discov ery

Art Ongoing “Thinking of A Good House” Exhibition This exhibition is divided into three sections: Make Your Home, Picture Your Life, and Envision Your Garden. Clayarch Gimhae Art Gallary. 10 am - 6 pm.

Closed Mon. clayarch.org 055-340-7000 Through December 11th Everlasting Life found in Soil 400 relics from the Paleolithic to the Chosun Dynasty give us the breath of ancient times. Daegu National Museum.

9 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. daegu.museum.go.kr 053-768-6051 Through December 11th Monet to Warhol 112 masterpieces from the Saint-Etienne Museum of Modern Art are now at the Busan City Art Gallery.

Pieces on display include Pablo Picasso, Andy Warhol, Roy Liechtenstein, and Claude Monet, among many others. Busan City Art Gallery.10 am - 8 pm. W11,000. 모네에서워홀까지 .com 051-746-2970

Berry and Ricotta Pancakes at The Pan, Centum City

Through December 11th Para Technologies: Strange yet Beneficial Technologies When technology meets the arts, the outcome is surprisingly creative and beneficial to our lives.

Pohang Museum of Steel Art. 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. poma.kr 054-250-6000

Yousuf Karsh, Audrey Hepburn, 1956

December 15th - February 5th

Shop, Eat, Play At Busan’s Centum City

For a consumer experience above and beyond what the local market can offer, head on down to Busan’s ultra-modern Centum City.

GYEONGSANG

If you haven’t yet caught wind of Centum City, you’re probably not much of a shopper.

At the core of this booming commercial center near Haeundae stands the megadepartment-store duo of Shinsegae and Lotte.

At 293,904 square meters, Centum’s Shinsegae is officially the largest department store in the world! If that wasn’t enough, this beast of retail is connected via an underground passageway modeled after Rome’s Trevi Plaza to neighboring Lotte. The result is a one-stop shopping experience on an unprecedented scale. And unlike most Western shopping complexes, pedestrian-friendly Centum City has broad sidewalks instead of parking lots and public transit instead of traffic jams.

Attention, shoppers: with over 700 brands from Apple to Zara with just about everything in between, Centum is a veritable sin city for shopaholics! Having trouble finding the right clothing sizes in Korea? International staples like The Gap and Guess have got you covered.

Expats will also be pleased to find a decent English book selection at Kyobo Bookstore in Shinsegae (as well as copies of 10).

68 | 10 Magazine December 2011

Shopping’s not your bag? Not to worry, as Centum City packs in plenty of other reasons to visit. In fact, the dining options alone are well worth the trip. The expansive food halls in the basements of Shinsegae and Lotte have a dizzying range of Korean and foreign cuisine as well as large imported groceries sections. Outside the department stores, a growing number of gourmet restaurants are popping up, like the upscale Italian El Olive and The Pan, with its tasty all-day brunch.

Eats aside, Shinsegae also boasts an impressive range of entertainment facilities such as the luxurious Spa Land, a full-sized ice rink, the state-of-the-art CGV Cinema, a four-story golf driving range, and even a park on the roof. Additional nearby attractions include the dazzling new Busan Cinema Center, the Busan Museum of Modern Art, the BEXCO convention center, and APEC Naru Park along the riverside. Whatever your pleasure, Centum’s got something for you.

G e tt i n g T h e r e

Take Busan’s subway line 2 to Centum City Station.

Words a n d shots by Bryc e W ei bl ey

Karsh: The Master of Portrait Photography Karsh’s second exhibition in Korea presents photographs of the 20th century’s significant figures, such as Andy Warhol, Nelson Mandela, Marc Chagall, Elizabeth Taylor and more. In addition to these portraits, there is also a section for Hands and Landscapes.

315 Art Center in Changwon-si. 10 am - 7 pm. 315art.net 055-286-0315

Theater & Dance Ongoing Korean Music and Dance in Busan Performances take place every Saturday at the National Gugak Center in Busan. 4 pm. W8,000. busan.gugak.go.kr 051-811-0040 Miso II: Shilla, The Land of Gods This non-verbal performance illustrates the thousand-year history of Shilla with the age-old Korean dance and music. The three acts touch upon the divine founding of Shilla, the love story of Seondeok and Yongchun, and the Silla Road. Expo Cultural Center of the Gyeongju World Culture Expo.

7 pm. Closed Mon. W20,000 – W50,000. sillamiso.chongdong.com 054-740-3800 December 10th - 11th A Ballerina Who Loved a B-Boy A story about a ballerina who falls in love with a b-boy street dancer is a genrebending mash-up of break dance and ballet. Busan Citizen’s Hall. 90 min.

3 & 6 pm. W40,000 - W60,000. citizenhall.busan.kr 051-630-5200 December 17th - 18th

The Last Empress Myeongseong Empress Myongseong, also known as Queen Min, was the wife of King Kojong during the Joseon Dynasty. Due to her heavy involvement in the politics, the Japanese considered her as an obstacle against its overseas expansion. Therefore, in 1895 she was killed by the Japanese. This musical starts with the trial that followed Myeongseong’s death. Busan Citizen’s Hall.

150 min. 17th (3 & 7 pm), 18th(2 & 6 pm).

W55,000 - W99,000. citizenhall.bisco. or.kr/ 051-630-5200

Concerts December 1st & 4th Ensemble Berlin Live in Seoul Consisting of players from the Berlin Philharmonic, these seven virtuosos will enchant us with pieces from Mozart, Weber, F.Poulenc, F. Liszt, and a few other composers. 1st: Gyeongnam Province Culture and Arts Center in Jinju. 7:30 pm. 4th: Geoje Culture and Art Center 3 pm W20,000 - W50,000. gncac.com 1544-6711 December 1st Yuhki Kuramoto Piano Concert This is definitely a must-see concert! This New Age artist will play “Romance”, “The Only Love”, and “In a Beautiful Season” among many other inspirational and peaceful songs. Hyundai Arts Center in Ulsan. 8 pm. W40,000 - W90,000. hhiarts.co.kr 052-235-2100 December 5th Chang Han-Na Cello Recital The cellist who won the world’s 3 classic record awards will delight the audience with Rachmaninov and Piazzolla. Daegu Culture and Arts Center. 100 min.

7:30 pm. W30,000 - W70,000. artcenter.daegu.go.kr 053-606-6114

December 14th Gracias Choir & Orchestra: Christmas Cantata After their successful concerts in New York, London and St. Petersburg, Gracias Choir & Orchestra are coming to Korea. It’s a perfect concert for the family.

Daegu Cultural Center for Students. 7:30 pm. W20,000 - W60,000. dccs.go.kr 053-550-7187 December 15th

December 16th French Horn Rebellion in Busan The Brooklyn based duo, who produced MGMT’s indie release ‘Time to Pretend’ EP, launches a second concert in Korea.

Club Fabric. W20,000 (In advance W15,000). supercolorsuper.com 010-8546-8381 December 17th YB Concert: Youth One of the most famous rock bands in Korea, YB (Yun Do-hyeon Band), will sing their hearts out as they reminisce their youth when they formed this band. Only through their music, they will prove to their fans that their passion for rock is always progressing. With Galaxy Express, YB will rock you once again. Changwon gymnasium. 7 pm. ticket.interpark.com W66,000 - W99,000. 1599-7448 December 18th Yiruma Concert ‘The Best’ The man who began the New Age fever in Korea starts a tour. His hit songs ‘When the Love Falls’ and ‘Kiss the Rain’ as well as other soothing songs will be played.

Ulsan Culture and Art Center. 6 pm.

W55,000 - W77,000. ticket.interpark.com 052-275-9623 December 29th - 30th Patti Kim Dinner Concert Enjoy Patti Kim’s dynamic swing and Latin rhythm along with a fancy dinner. Dadgu Hotel Inter-burgo. 180 min. 6 pm. W110,000 - W150,000. ticket.interpark.com 053-939-0300

Family & Community December 1st - January 9th Busan Christmas Tree Festival Awaken your Christmas spirit at this heartwarming festival. Busan Guangbokdong Guangbok-ro. bctf.kr December 5th - 27th Parody Art with Van Gogh Paintings by Van Gogh and other famous painters have been imitated. You can take photos with these paintings. Highly educational and experimental. Ulju Culture and Art Center. 9 am - 6 pm. W5,000. uljuart.or.kr 052-248-3270 December 31th - January 1st The New Year Festival, Homigot Enjoy the beautiful sunrise and indulge yourself in tteokguk (rice-cake soup) for free. Daebo-myeon, Pohang-si. sunrise.ipohang.org 054-270-2254

Gyeongsang Foreigner Assistance Busan Foundation for Int’l Activities bfia.or.kr 051-668-7900 Geoje Foreign Resident Association gfra.net 055-687-9332 Ulsan Global Center 052-229-2810 Ulsan Online ulsanonline.com

Radio Stations TBS eFM Busan FM 90.5 American Forces Network Jinhae AM 1512 / FM 88.5 Daegu AM 1080 / FM 88.5 Pohang AM 1512 Waegwan AM 1080 / FM 88.5

Medical Services Centum Eco Clinic Busan Reliable medical care from a doctor specializing in ENT, internal medicine and pediatrics.

Located in the shopping center of the Centum Park Apartments in Haeundaegu, Busan.

051-731-1522

Education Ayurveda Yoga Academy Certification course for would-be yoga teachers in Daegu. Sat 10 am – 7 pm.

Call Yatren at 011-9547-5181 Yoga Classes Each 1st and 3rd Sunday from 12:30 – 1:30 pm. Buy the Book Cafe in Daegu. megan.deutsch@gmail. com 010-7794-1218

Hotels/Accommodations 4 – 5 Star Hotels Busan Lotte Hotel 051-810-1000 Novotel Ambassador 051-743-1234 Seacloud 051-933-1000 Daegu Novotel Ambassador 053-664-1101 Hostels Busan Arpina 051-740-3228 Zen Backpackers 010-8722-1530

Bars/Lounges/Pubs Busan Aligote Wines, cheese platters, and excellent service. Haeundae. 6 pm – 3 am. aligote-busan.com 051-731-3322 Basement Open mic nights on Tuesdays and parties galore.

011-9294-2391

Fuzzy Navel Great drinks and great Mexican food as well. 011-1757-6349 The HQ Bar Kyungsung’s only foreignerowned bar with sports and dart games. busankart@yahoo.com Rock ‘n’ Roll House Western-style bar with darts and pool and a great view of Haeundae.

051-742-5553 Sosa Bar A cozy latin bar close to Pusan National University.

051-513-0070 Wolfhound The same classic food and drinks from the Seoul location, but right on Haeundae Beach.

051-746-7913 Daegu Ping Bar Great drinks, a pool table, and music upon request. Samdeok Catholic Church. 7 pm - 5 am. withhyk@hanmail.net 053-422-7708 Jinju Soundgarden Behind Gyeongsang National University. soundgarden. cyworld.com, zakkie@hanmail.net 055-753-2248, 010-6478-2248 (owner)

Live Music Venues Busan Club Interplay cafe.daum.net/ interplaycafe 051-517-4773 Daegu Club Heavy cafe.daum.net/clubheavy96

010-2338-1340 Gyeongju Club Metal Boys cafe.daum.net/ metalboys 011-9599-8370

Clubs Daegu Club That Located on the rodeo just down from the Samdok fire station. clubthat.co.kr 053-427-7171 Old Skool Hip hop bar great for dancing, socializing or drinking. “Old SkooL: Daegu Muzik Club Bar” on Facebook.

Busan Elune Lots of international acts.

Paradise Hotel 010-5525-4055 Maktum Club dancing, events, launching shows, sports parties. 9 pm – 6 am. maktum.co.kr, 051-742-0770 NEO Starface “Latin Club” Free salsa classes weekdays from 8 pm. Saturdays boast a live band and/or DJs. Haeundae. neostarface.com 051-746-1746 Vinyl Underground Delivers fresh breaks, house, funk, electro, tech house, hip hop. B2 Han La Building. 9 pm - 6 am.

051-628-0223

Education & Conference Through February 26th Children Art Museum “Shush! Listen Carefully!” Do you want to stimulate your creative mind? Then come to this exhibition. There are 15 pieces of installation art with sound. Busan Museum of Art. 10 am – 6 pm. Adults W700, students W300. art.busan.go.kr, 051-740-4241

Sports & Fitness

The Czech Boys’ Choir Boni Pueri Boni Pueri (meaning “good boys”) is one of the most famous boys’ choirs in the world. Listen to these boys sing Czech

December 25th Gimhae Winter Marathon 5k, 10k, 20k and a full marathon organized by the National Marathon Association. Departs from Gimhae Deokjeong Elementary school at 10 am. W10,000 - W35,000.

Sign up by December 8th. run1080.com 042-638-1080

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December 10th Ibadi Concert - 2nd Voyage Acoustic band Ibadi is back after three years with their 2nd album 2nd Voyage. Enjoy soothing melodies. Dong-gu Arts & Sports Center. 7 pm. W44,000 - W55,000 ticket.interpark.com 1661-3253

traditional songs, Christmas carols, and some classical pieces with their beautiful voices. Andong Culture & Art Center.

7:30 pm. W10,000 - W20,000. andongart.go.kr 054-840-3600

JEJU CALENDAR Art

discov ery

December 4th - 5th Original Drawings by the Picture Book Society Halla Art Hall at Cheju Halla College. halla-c.ac.kr 010-2693-3523

Performances Ongoing

Jeju Music Bar Rewrites Rock History Create the ultimate classical rock soundtrack as you sip on a cocktail at this Shin Jeju pub.

Shin Jeju, to the west of Jeju city, boasts the largest conglomeration of drinking establishments on the island. In the heart of this already popular district is a place where both audiophiles and drinkers can get their fix. Aptly named Led Zeppelin, this watering hole is centered on rock and roll, and more specifically, the golden age of album-oriented-rock spanning the sixties and seventies.

The layout is more akin to what one would expect from a pub back home, with few dividers between booths or tables and a large open space in the middle that lends itself quite nicely to mingling. The most prominent visual in the place is a wall-size portrait of Jimi Hendrix’s face, and there is a choice smattering of other memorabilia adorning the walls. It has the standard selection of alcohol present in most “Western” bars, with a full liquor menu and reasonable prices.

But Led Zeppelin’s main focus is undoubtedly on the music.

Similar to vinyl bars in larger cities, making song requests is the main pastime and there are often heated discussions among groups of friends about what direction to steer the night musically. The owner, Mr. Choi, is obviously performing a labor of love. While his English isn’t perfect, this doesn’t hinder him from diving into shop talk and trying to argue the finer points of such classic debates as who was the better front-man for Black Sabbath, Ozzy Osbourne or Ronnie James Dio. The back wall is covered in Mr Choi’s personal collection of vinyls, CDs, box sets, and DVDs. He also has the finest selection of cassette tapes found anywhere outside of a museum. Anything he doesn’t have on hand is easily found via the internet, but most things can surprisingly be dug out of the stacks of wax on the shelves. There is also an amazing stereo system installed on the walls throughout the bar, making the sound quality lush and full-bodied.

G e tt i n g T h e r e

Led Zeppelin is located in Shin Jeju near the Jewon Apartment Intersection (제원 아파트 사거리), just next to popular curry restaurant Rajmahal. 064-745-2291 psyke229@hanmail.net

W ords by I a n H en derson

70 | 10 Magazine December 2011

December 24th Drawing Show: Hero At this nonverbal show, the act of drawing becomes performance art. Jeju National Museum.

Starts at 6 pm. Free. Ticket distribution at 5 pm. jeju.museum.go.kr 064-720-8000 TBA - Tentatively December 24th Christmas Concert: Danny Jung and Yiruma Danny Jung, the first Korean saxaphonist to have been included in the Billboard Contemporary Jazz chart, joins internationally known pianist and composer Yiruma to present beautiful sounds this Christmas. Jeju Arts Center. arts.jeju.go.kr 064-759-2209 December 25th Yiruma Concert: The Best The man who began New Age fever in Korea starts a national tour. His beautiful piano is powerful and moving. Jeju Arts Center. 5 pm. W55,000 - W77,000. ticket.interpark.com

Family & Community Jump In its second decade, this popular martial arts comic performance shows no signs of slowing. Halla Art Hall at Cheju Halla College. Tue - Fri 8 pm; Sat 4, 8 pm; Sun, holiday 8 pm. Closed Mon. W40,000 - W50,000. hijump.co.kr 064-749-0550

December 31st - January 1st Seongsan Sunrise Festival Begin the new year with a spectacular view of the sunrise at Seongsan Ilchulbong peak, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Seogwipo-si. 70ni. seogwipo.go.kr 064-760-2661

JEJU ISLAND Theme Park

Nanta Started a decade ago, this nonverbal performance is a feast for the ears that turns ordinary kitchen pots and pans into a rhythm section. Jeju Media Center in Jeju City (064-727-7800). 90 min. Sun 8 pm, Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 pm, 8 pm.

W40,000 - W50,000. nanta.i-pmc.co.kr 1544-1555 Through December 5th Ryu “Artcal” Get ready for a creative performance that brings together Korean dance and traditional martial arts for a hybrid of art and musical called an “artcal.”

Convention Hall at Jeju Tourism College in North Jeju. 2 & 5 pm. 60 min. W20,000 W30,000. ticket.interpark.com 064-759-1214 December 1st - 2nd La Traviata: The Opera Set in 18thcentury Paris, Giuseppe Verdi’s La Traviata (The Fallen Woman) is a love story based on the novel The Lady of the Camellias. Aramuse Hall at Jeju National University. Price and time TBA. aramusehall.com 064-754-4695 December 3th Sejong Soloists in Concert: The Three Violins Worldwide performers, the Sejong Soloists are finally coming to the Jeju Art Center. Price and time TBA. arts.jeju.go.kr 064-753-2209 December 14th 2011 Jeju Music Festival Jeju Culture and Arts Center. 7 pm. W5,000. jejuculture.or.kr 010-2804-2808 December 19th “Embolden For the Future” Concert Jeju Halla Art Hall. 7:30 pm. aramusehall.com 064-754-4697 December 21st Sorineoul in Concert Jeju Halla Art Hall at Cheju Halla College. 7 pm. Free. aramusehall.com 064-754-4697

Kimnyoung Maze Park The challenge is the thrill of the search and the reward is the taste of success in ringing the bell!

San 16, Kimnyoung-ri, Gujwa-eup, Jejusi, Jeju-do. jejumaze.com 064-782-9266

Entertainment Alice in Wonderland Haunted House Try to escape from this maze of mirrors.

Seogwipo.

064-794-4700 Halla Arboretum A collection of hundreds of trees and flowers native to the island. Jeju City. Free. sumokwon. jeju.go.kr 064-710-7575 Jeju Sea World Attractions include a circus, submarine, jetski, and marine resort. jejuseaworld.co.kr 064-784-2333 Seogwipo Astronomy Culture Center Jeju’s first observatory and astronomy museum. Tamna University in Seogwipo. astronomy.seogwipo.go.kr

064-739-9701

NETWORKING CALENDAR E dited by J i s u n M o o n and dav i d ca rru t h

Wednesday, November 30th SIWA Working Women’s Network 7 pm 9:30 pm. Kyotofu near Hangangjin Stn. (line 6, ex. 3). Guests pay for their own meal and drinks. W10,000 participation fee for nonmembers. Reserve your seat at workingwomensnetwork@siwapage.com.

available for purchase at great prices. Event held at Itaewon-dong 111-3, located behind Crow’s Nest Pizza. 9:30 - 11:30 am. awckorea-seoul.org

Thursday, December 1st BASS Christmas Lunch Join this festive event including a Christmas lunch, games, singing and prizes. Grand Hyatt Hotel. 11:30 am - 3:30 pm. Details TBA. Sign up at britishseoul.com.

Saturday, December 3rd AWC Holiday Party This will be a night to start off the holiday season. Dress code is holiday, smart casual. Directions and map are available online. 7 pm. Non-members W40,000, members W35,000. Cost includes hors d’oeuvres and cocktails. RSVP required. awckorea-seoul.org awcdani@gmail.com

SIWA Newcomers Meeting Take advantage of this chance to get to know more about the city of Seoul and SIWA. 10:30 am at M-Plaza Seoul Global Cultural Center, 5th floor. Free.

RSVP to newcomers@siwapage.com, siwapage.com

Wednesday, December 7th SIWA Holiday Brunch Join SIWA for brunch, with entertainment provided by eight violin players. Grand Ambassador Hotel. 10 am.

Members W25,000, non-members W30,000. siwapage.com

Friday, December 2nd AWC Holiday Pantry Party Join AWC’s first annual Pampered Chef party for premier brand kitchen cookware, utensils, gadgets, and specialty sauces and spices. USA cake mixes, frosting, and baking items are also

Thursday, December 8th FKCCI Café du Commerce Novotel Ambassador Gangnam. 6:30 - 8:45 pm. Enjoy an informal French atmosphere at the monthly Café du Commerce networking event.

W26,000. fkcci.com

Friday, December 9th AMCHAM & AWC Toys for Tots Family Fun Bring your whole family to enjoy food, crafts for the kids, and Santa while helping those less fortunate during the holiday season.

Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul. 6 - 9 pm.

Members W20,000, non-members W50,000, children under 8 yrs. 1 gift donation per child. amchamkorea.org, awckorea-seoul.org

KGCCI Goose Dinner 2011 Millenium Seoul Hilton, Kukhwa Room. 6 - 10 pm.

Details TBA. korea.ahk.de

Saturday, December 10th CanCham Christmas Party The Canadian Chamber of Commerce is hosting a traditional Christmas party complete with a delightful buffet dinner, wine, games, door prizes and carol singing. Grand Hyatt Seoul. 6 - 10 pm.

Members and group of 6 or more W75,000, non-members W85,000, children from 5 - 12 yrs. W40,000. RSVP by 6th to info@ canchamkorea.org or call at 02-554-0245

Tuesday, December 13th ANZA Global Cafe Grand Hyatt Hotel at 10 am. Members W10,000, non-members W15,000. anzakorea.com

Deutscher Club Seoul Stammtisch 7:30 pm.

TBA Spanish restaurant in Itaewon. RSVP requested. deutscherclubseoul.de, vizepraesidentin@deutscherclubseoul.de ANZA

Australian & New Zealand Association of South Korea AUSTCHAM Australian Chamber of Commerce in Korea AWC American Women’s Club BASS British Association of Seoul CanCham Canadian Camber of Commerce FKCCI French Chamber of Commerce and Industry in Korea KGCCI Korean-German Chamber of Commerce and Industry SIWA Seoul Int’l Women’s Association Editor’s Note

Since many expats spend the final weeks of December in their home countries enjoying the Christmas holidays, very few networking events are planned for the latter half of the month.

Photos taken by Dominique Buck at a meeting of the SIWA Working Women’s Network, held at Vongo Spanish tapas bar in Itaewon on Wednesday, October 26th.

To list your event, contact David Carruth at calendar@10mag.com or 02-3447-1610 10 Magazine December 2011 | 71

NETWORKING CALENDAR

10 Magazine’s booth at the SIWA bazaar, which took place on November 15th at the Hilton Hotel.

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grew up celebrating two major holidays a year: Easter and Christmas. That was it. There was a birthday somewhere in the middle but that was just my day not to be shared by a fat man in a red suit or a bunny with a basket. The other two were special days for everyone. There were chocolate eggs at Easter and fantastic amounts of presents at Christmas until I turned 10, then there was a definite switch from quantity to quality which I was not altogether unhappy about. Life was simple.

Easter was spent scrounging around the garden looking for chocolate-covered marshmallows and Christmas was spent around the swimming pool with a couple of sausages and a lamb chop on the grill.

When I moved to the northern hemisphere, life grew a little more complicated. I was confronted by a whole herd of new holidays and traditions and I was as confused as a cow on AstroTurf.

Two come to mind immediately: Carnival and Halloween. Carnival is celebrated in many different countries but it was something new to me. Ditto Halloween. Sure, I’d heard of them, but they were never celebrated as part of my culture. But when you have kids you are expected to do a lot of things that you normally would never do, and so I found myself dressing my 4-year-old in a skeleton costume and intricately painting his face to complete the effect. He clumped through to the kitchen to frighten his dad who threw the switch on a lidless liquidizer filled with bananas and milk. Mission accomplished. My son went to kindergarten looking like a skeleton that had vomited on itself and was a huge success. Adults love Halloween, too. I think we use it as a chance to celebrate our inner alter ego. I’m always deeply suspicious of men dressed as women and women dressed as prostitutes.

And then we have Carnival, and forgive me for saying it but it reeks of sex and promiscuity. Not a complaint, just an observation.

Stolen kisses are forgiven, ties are shorn in half, men dress up as ballerinas and women head off for nights on the town alone. It’s truly fabulous.

So I’m quite relieved that it’s almost time for a holiday that I recognize. My body has finally acclimatized to spending Christmas in the cold, and who doesn’t love a mug of hot mulled wine, even if you do need to take out a second mortgage to pay for one at some of the finer establishments in Seoul. I love the way the department stores are lit up so that they can be seen from Mars. If there is intelligent life out there, the first thing they’ll do is thank us for the wonderful light display every 340 days or so. And so what if we melt a couple of icebergs while we’re about it.

I can’t wait to put up my artificial tree and get my advent candles out. This is another tradition that I picked up while living in the northern hemisphere and one which I do religiously every year, even though I still have no idea why. Presents will be bought and placed under the tree, candles will be lit, the wreath will be put on (and will fall off) the door and for a very short while there will be a feeling of peace, love and contentment. In my home, at least.

Merry Christmas, everyone.

Pick up your FREE copy today at the Itaewon Subway Station Tourism Information Office or from your hotel concierge.

72 | 10 Magazine December 2011

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