Art • Theater • Concerts • Film • Community • Fitness • Dine & Drink • Nightlife • TRAVEL
Korea awaits! • may 2011 VOL. 3 NO. 8
외국인의 한국생활 노하우
Transcendental Tea Your Ticket to Morning Calm
Printed using 100% soy ink.
Inquiries
Reservations
4 From the Editor / Shot of Korean 6 Contributors 8 Letters / Blog of the Month / Korea by the Numbers 9 Reader’s 10 10 10 Questions Brother Anthony of Taizé 12 History Every Child Has His Day 14 Taste of Korea Boribap 16 In the Kitchen Wayne Golding 18 Expat Expertise Streets and the City 20 Asia Destination Cebu’s Got It All!
28 Hotel & Resort News 30 Expat News
24
Sheraton Walkerhill H otel S eoul - F our S easons
The Way of Tea
32 Gastronomic News
Shot by Pau l M at the ws
Tea may be more commonly associated with China and Japan, but Korea has its own vibrant tradition as well. Paul Matthews takes you through the details of a tea ceremony before introducing you to 10 tasty Korean teas and 10 charming tea shops perfect for a tranquil morning.
33 Newcomers 34 Locations with 10 68 Happy Ending The Kids Are All Right
May 2011 vol. 3 No. 8
Nationwide Calendar 36 Movies Sucker Punch, Paul and Peppermint Candy Paul
37 TV We Got Married on MBC 38 Music 4minute, Gang of Four and Jessie J Books Tragedy in Crimson: How the Dalai Lama Conquered the World but Lost the Battle with China 39 Tech Digital Cameras: Olympus E-PL2 and Sony NEX
Regional Calendar 40 Seoul Restaurant Review Ga Hoe Hyeon 42 Destination Hiking in Seoul 57 Gangwon Editor’s Pick Mime Fest 58 Gyeonggi Foodie Find Café London 60 Chungcheong Discovery Cold Mineral Springs 61 Gyeongsang Discovery Busan Temple Tour 65 Jeolla Editor’s Pick May 18th in Gwangju 66 Jeju Discovery EcoLand Forest Train
For information about performances by Avril Lavigne, Maroon 5, Mr. Big, Herbie Hancock, Ben Folds and Anne-Sophie Mutter, see the Seoul calendar on p. 42.
Progress
T
here was a huge office down the hall from us sitting empty for most of the winter. They used to leave the door unlocked, and I would occasionally go over there and dream about being in that huge office filled with dozens of staff members hustling and bustling to make 10 happen on a much bigger scale. I even brought friends over to look at it and tell them about my dream of someday moving in there. You see, our office was so small that we had to go outside if we ordered a large pizza. No kidding, we had to pull out the folding chair when someone came to visit. There were almost fisticuffs as people would push past others to get to their desks in our little place. Of course, someone else had already grown big enough to move into that big huge office and we weren’t ready yet. One day I saw the movers at work and was crushed. But then I realized that it was our across-the-hall neighbors who were moving into that giant office, thereby vacating their very reasonably sized office which was palatial compared to our little corner office tucked next to the stairway. I peeked my head in, and a new dream - one I had a hope of achieving in the near future - began to form. And then I looked up at the number on the door. Suite 1010. We moved in last month. Why should you care? Well, besides the fact that you keep getting a better quality English event magazine to help you make the most of your time in Korea, we also do more to support expat support systems and causes than just about any other organization out there. We’ve donated millions of won in
product to causes already this year - causes like the Americ a n Wo m e n’s C l u b G a l a and Australia New Zealand Association Ball, which both raised tens of millions of won for domestic charities (nice job, ladies!). We help sponsor Stand Up Seoul’s comedy nights, which go a long way to helping people adjust to their time here. And you’ll notice that every month we donate a page of advertising to promote charities - charities that you chose in our Reader’s 10 back in December. That’s not to mention all the promotions of expat-focused events and happenings all over Korea. So as we gather steam for the road ahead, I hope you’ll support us in our efforts to make the best English magazine in the country. Subscribe to the magazine. Contribute an article or some photographs. Or just send us your ideas at comments@10mag. com. We’ll take whatever talent you’re interested in sharing. Steph en R ev er e M anag in g E ditor
A Shot of Korean by Stephen Revere
땡 잡았어요 [Ttaeng-jab-ass-eo-yo] : Got lucky. (Caught a lucky break.) With any of these phrases that I explain to you, you have to be careful with the pronunciation. Don’t just read the English up there while ignoring the hangul and think that people will understand you. They won’t. Be sure to have a Korean model the sounds of the language for you so you can repeat it a few times. Be sure to get ready, because you’re guaranteed to have an occasion to use these fun expressions. This one is particularly hard to pronounce, as it starts with a double “t” sound, which is essentially a tighter and harder “d” on the verge of becoming a “t.” As happens so often, you don’t need to use the subject here, so feel free to use the same sentence whether talking about yourself, the listener or another third party.
땡 잡았네! [Ttaeng jab-an-ne!] - (You) got lucky there! Check out Survival Korean and Survival Korean: Basic Grammar Skills for more Korean lessons from 10’s Managing Editor, Stephen Revere.
4 | 10 Magazine May 2011
CEO
Sang-tae Kim sangtaekim@10mag.com Jai-yoon Kim jaiyoonkim@10mag.com Stephen Revere sr@10mag.com David Carruth dc@10mag.com
Executive Editor Managing Editor Assistant Editor
10 S t a f f S p o t l i g h t
Angela Lee is a self-proclaimed hippie from California who loves her vegetables and dreams of someday living on a farm with her dog Scout. W hen she’s not attempting to eat all the odeng in Seoul, she can be found buying books she’ll never finish and working with the coolest coworkers at the best magazine in Korea.
John Mensing (p. 38) retired from a dangerous career as a community organizer in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, to immerse himself in Asia. After China, India, Japan and Sri Lanka, he’s settled on Korea. An occasional journalist and academic, he’s also worked as an associate editor for Schocken Books in NYC. He can be reached at johnmensing@gmail.com.
Paul Matthews (p. 24) is a sometimes bea rded , of ten bef uddled , u k ulele strumming British thespian who has been bumbling his way around the Korean peninsula for the past eleven years. He sometimes works for Latt Children’s Theatre and Mokwha Repertory Company and his ramblings on food, film and the oddities of life in Korea can be found at Paul Ajosshi (www.paulajosshi.com). You can follow him on twitter (@ajosshi).
Rob Ouwehand (p. 18) is a longtime Seoul resident. He came to Korea in 2003 and fell in love with the country, and he has written about culture, Korea, identity, and expat and Korean social issues on his blog, Roboseyo (roboseyo.blogspot. com) since 2006. He is currently working on a masters’ in Korean Studies at one of Korea’s top universities.
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Contributors Michael Berry, Simon Bond, Adam Boothe, Judith Ann Clancy, Andy Clay, Patrick Conway, Matthew Crawford, Matthew Crompton, Ian Henderson, Ciaran Hickey, Angela Jacobus, Angela Lee, Grace Lee, Seul-ki Lee, Sun-kyung Lee, Evo Leota, Mike Luedke, Stafford Lumsden, Paul Matthews, Joe McPherson, John Mensing, Charles Montgomery, Ji-sun Moon, Robert Neff, Conor O’Reilly, Anna Orzel, Rob Ouwehand, Seth Pevey, Sebastien Rousset Patrick Volz, Bryce Weibley, Soyeon Kimberly Yoon, Tae-jun Yun The cute little bird sitting on the cup of five flavor tea (오미자 차) is one of the resident avians at the Old Tea Shop (옛찻집), mentioned in our cover story on p. 24. Photographer Dylan Goldby had to wait around for two hours, enticing the bird with dried teas, rice snacks and even his own version of a bird call, until it deigned to cooperate by perching on the edge of the cup.
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Please Recycle This Magazine
Br yce Weibley ( p. 61) was raised a Wisconsin cheesehead but has spent most of the past decade in Korea, Canada, England, or traveling wherever he can. His current line of work primarily involves being punched in the crotch by 6-yearolds. For leisure, Bryce enjoys the finer ajosshi pursuits – gearing up for hikes, dinking around with his expensive camera, and swilling makgeolli around town. 6 | 10 Magazine May 2011
10 Magazine May Vol. 3 No. 8
Soyeon Kimberly Yoon (p. 37) moved to Seoul from New York last June to live with her family and recently started working as an analyst. She loves hanging out with her friends, going to new places, listening to good music, reading magazines/fashion blogs, playing games on her iPhone, and, of course, eating.
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By chance I was driven to your website and realized that this is one of the best and most useful websites for foreigners. Since it covers various fields from diverse magazines to other life-related items such as Korea wine, it was just fun itself very much to browse all these links. Particularly, all the links under the section of “Blogs 10 Loves (Read Stuff to do)” were very much fascinating. Suk Min-ho, Seoul Thanks Min-ho! We’re always glad when Koreans discover our magazine and site. There are plenty of foreigners who already know about us, but Koreans are still just starting to realize that we’re out there. There is a lot more to read in English than just newspapers, and 10 is a great way to get English learning in and find out what’s happening all over Korea at the same time! 10
L i k e t h e C ult ur e St uff
Thank you and keep up the good work on 10. I especially enjoy Robert Neff’s articles on history. I would like to see more variety in those who are interviewed, besides business leaders and chefs. Maybe there are some other businesses and specialty shops that can present a story of people. I’m reminded of “One in 8 Million.” Maybe it’s possible that 10 Magazine could do something similar to this in magazine form? Matthew Nelson, Cheonan Yes, Mr. Neff’s articles are consistently popular with our staff as well. His photos are also spectacular additions to his great writing, making every contribution a gem. We also really enjoyed that website you pointed out, and maybe someday we’ll also be able to do something like the One in 8 Million project that the NY Times did. It certainly would be interesting. In the meantime, you may want to check out Korea Bug by J. Scott Burgeson. It’s a little dated (2005), but it is very similar in format and you may find it to be of interest. 10
Korea by the Numbers The number of nuclear reactors in Korea. Korea is 5th worldwide, following the US (104), France (59), Japan (54), and Russia (31).
21
Uljin 6
Wolseong 4 Yeonggwang 6
437 24 55
The total number of nuclear reactors used for generating electricity worldwide (located in 30 different countries).
Gori 5
The percentage of electricity generated from nuclear power in Korea. The top three nuclear-dependent countries are France (76%), Belgium (55%), and Ukraine (47%). The number of nuclear reactors currently under construction worldwide. Statistics compiled by the International Atomic Energy Agency, 2010
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Blog of the Month
Korean Modern Literature in Translation ktlit.com
Korean literature in translation is looking for a savior, and Charles Montgomer y has his eyes peeled. A few weeks ago, he posted the news that Shin Kyoung-sook’s novel Please Look After Mom had been recommended by O: The Oprah Magazine on his blog Korean Modern Literature in Translation. A few days later, an update relayed the even-better news that the book had been reviewed by the New York Times. This vigilance is par t of Charles Montgomery’s effort to bring Korean literature to the awareness of international readers, many of whom may not realize it exists. One of his concrete attempts to achieve this is through the Wikipedia Project, which involves adding English entries about Korean authors and texts to the free encyclopedia to increase their online presence. He also has a lot of things he’d like to see changed by those marketing Korean literature abroad: choosing better works to translate, insisting upon high-quality translation, ensuring that the works are published overseas as well as in the domestic market, and soliciting reviews from English-language magazines and websites. In addition to news on international reception of Korean fiction, Charles’ blog (active since 2006) includes regular posts on the process of translation, links to interviews with and articles by prominent translators, and reviews of Korean fiction in translation. Someday, one of the authors on his blog may just become the Korean Haruki Murakami.
THE READER'S 10
What Is Your Favorite Public Establishment for Watching Sporting Events?
F
or this month’s Reader’s 10, we wanted to know where our readers liked to get a little rowdy and cheer on their favorite sports team. Although we agree that watching sports in the comfort of your own home is quite relaxing (especially with the dress code being sweats and a dirty, old shirt), we didn’t want this poll to get too personal. So we asked for your input on your favorite public establishments to watch sports in Korea. We can’t say we’re too surprised about the results: most of the highest ranking venues are reminiscent of sports bars that you could find back home. We guess nothing says “home” like a cold bottle of beer and a flood of testosterone spilling out of the TV and over the bar stools.
10. Wolfhound (Itaewon, Seoul) 9. Scrooge Pub (Itaewon, Seoul) 8. Seoul Plaza 7. Dillinger’s (Itaewon, Seoul) 6. Phillies Pub (Haebangchon, Seoul) 5. Big Rock (Gangnam, Seoul) 4. Rocky Mountain Tavern (Itaewon, Seoul) 3. Sam Ryan’s (Itaewon, Seoul) 2. Beer O’Clock (Sinchon, Seoul)
1. Hollywood Grill (Itaewon, Seoul) As for next month’s Reader’s 10, we’d like to hear about some of the best regular events that you’ve attended in Korea. As our readers know, there are so many things happening from week to week that it can get a bit dizzying for newcomers and even longtime residents. So help us narrow it down a little bit.
What is the best tour, festival or annual event that you’ve experienced in Korea? Add your nominations to the open thread on our website through May 5th and place your votes from May 6th - 15th. Be sure to vote at 10mag.com/readers10! 10 Magazine May 2011 | 9
10 Qu estions
w o rds and, s h ot s by Pau l M at t h e ws
Chatting Over a Cup of Tea Brother Anthony of Taizé
B
rother Anthony has been in Korea for over thirty years and has written two books on the subject of Korean tea: The Korean Way of Tea: An Introductory Guide and Korean Tea Classics by Hanjae Yi Mok and the Venerable Cho-ui. He was generous enough to meet with 10 Magazine to share a few of his thoughts on Korean tea culture.
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1. What first brought you to Korea? I was born in Cornwall and left England something like 45 years ago. I joined the community of Taizé in 1969 and then moved to the Philippines in 1977. In 1979 or 1980 the community accepted Cardinal Kim’s invitation and so three or four of us arrived in Seoul and I started teaching at Sogang University. I’ve been here ever since. 2. When did you first experience Korean tea? When I first came to Korea I did drink tea, but it was in 1993 when I started to hang out in Insadong that I first met Chae Wonhwa who produces the Panyaro tea and then went down to Jiri Mountain to see her actually making the tea. It all started in ’93. 3. Who is Chae Won-hwa? Chae Won-hwa is the widow of the Venerable Hyodang, the monk who published the first Korean book about tea in modern times. He had been making and giving people tea to drink since the 1920s down south at Daseol Temple. When he moved up to Seoul, he shared his knowledge about Zen tea. Chae Won-hwa runs the Panyaro Institute where she gives lectures on tea, and I taught her how to talk about tea in English. It’s the main reference on Korean tea, the Hyodang/Panyaro tradition. 4. What’s the difference between Japanese, Chinese and Korean tea? Japanese tea is green, and that’s the most important thing. For Chinese tea, it’s the fragrance that matters, but for Korean tea it’s the taste. All the tea masters will tell you that Korean tea has
“깊은 맛”— deep taste. 5. What about the health benefits of green tea? Tea was the folk medicine for colds, because you just boiled up some sun-dried leaves and then you held your nose and swallowed this horribly bitter stuff. And it was good for you, it cured your cold. You can read all these books and dissertations on the anti-cancer effects of tea drinking, but don’t ask me. There’s a lot being written about all these things. People say it’s good for everything conceivable, but I’m not in a position to judge. 6. What’s your perfect cup of tea? It depends where you are. If you’re in the Lake District, of course, you want breakfast tea with milk. No sugar! I’m from Cornwall, and in Cornwall and Yorkshire we don’t do sugar. But if you’re in Taiwan and you’re 1,200 meters up in a tea garden, the tea maker is giving you a taste of his different varieties. Or if you’re at Jiri Mountain, it’s tea that was dried overnight and has just finished going through the final process. Actually, a lot of people now, including me, like drinking this balhyocha (발효차, oxidized and fermented tea, also known as yellow tea), because green tea can be rather acidic in the stomach. That’s why Zen monks in Korea started to become interested in boicha (보이차, puer tea), because it’s very gentle. It’s soft, it’s not acidic and the same is true of the balhyocha. There’s a sweet taste to it, it’s closer to black tea, and it’s strongly oxidized. So I’m sorry, but I’m not really good at picking one favorite. 7. Where can I get a good cup of tea in Seoul? Well, we’re talking about green and yellow tea, or “tea” tea. Of course, if Koreans are drinking tea at all, it’s going to be a fruit tea. The famous one is ginseng, but that’s not so interesting. There are also all these things like mogwacha, yujacha, daechucha and also the hanyak (Oriental medicine) teas. Essentially, everything that’s made with water is called “tea.” So you have tea rooms, and most of them are in Insadong. If I have visitors and we’re going to drink tea, I always take them to Da Gyeong Hyang Shil (다경향실) which is in Insadong and has been there quite a long time. I take visitors there because they have a few of these traditional fruit tea things, but they are essentially “tea” tea and all the tea they serve is good tea. They serve Korean green tea, yellow tea and then Chinese oolong tea, with maybe one or two more. 8. When one drinks Korean tea, are there any snacks that should be served with it? There are, though I’m not sure how traditional it all is. There are these little dainties. In a lot of tea shops they give you some light rice cakes, but there are also things made from natural produce. My favorite one I think is pine pollen mixed with honey. It depends on how you’re drinking it and whether you’re doing a tea ceremony. Korea doesn’t really have tea ceremonies, as tea was always just a part of life, but if you’re doing a tea performance, they tend to have a little box or plate of these delicate little cookies. 9. So which comes first, the cookie or the tea? In the Japanese tea ceremony, or at least in some version of it, don’t they say you should eat the cookie first? I think this may be to prepare the taste buds, because Japanese whisked tea has a very strong taste. It’s almost to coat the stomach, because you’re drinking the whole tea leaf, whereas in Korea you drink at least one cup first, then you nibble. And normally you have three cups, if you’re sticking to form. But it’s not necessary. I don’t nibble, I just drink. If somebody gives me chocolate then I nibble, but then I’m not drinking tea. 10. You’ve written two volumes on tea, do you have plans to write a third book? Oh I don’t think so, no. I’m busy and there’s nothing else to say. Just drink it. Would you like some tea? 10 Magazine May 2011 | 11
history
Every Child Has His Day The children of Joseon period Korea may not have had a holiday dedicated to them, but they still had to shoulder heavy domestic and scholastic responsibilities like their counterparts today.
A
merican Horace N. Allen lived in Korea decades before Children’s Day was first proposed in 1923—and nearly a century before it became a public holiday in 1975. In the late 19th century, he observed that “Korean children are like the young of other lands, except that perhaps they are more
generally well-behaved.” Except for the part about being better behaved, Allen doesn’t appear to have been telling the whole truth — Korean children in the past, as they do today, had a life filled with responsibilities. In the late Joseon period, young Korean boys and girls were often found in the streets playing together “wearing nothing more than a smile.” During the summer, little boys and girls alike wore nothing more than a short shirt which hardly covered their nether regions. This may also explain why the Korean phrase bural chingu (불알친구, which translates literally as “testicle friend”) is used to describe an old childhood friend. This behavior was so prevalent that one American missionary declared Korea to be “a land of naked children.” But this children’s version of the Garden of Eden all ended around the age of seven. At this point, boys and girls were separated from each other. Little girls were sequestered to the back of the house where they played “at sewing and keeping house at the dreary washing that may soon become their lifelong toil.” The only males who were allowed to see them were members of their family. Little boys either went to work or to school. There are many pictures from the late Joseon period showing young boys peddling goods such as candies and water along the
The bride’s lot was one of harsh contrast. On the night of the wedding, young Korean brides often cried uncontrollably, filled with sorrow at being separated from their families and apprehensive of their lives at their in-laws’ homes.
Boy porter circa 1900-1920
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streets of Seoul or driving oxen laden with goods and firewood to market. For the most part, they appear to have been happy despite the rough life they lived. For the gifted or those from wealthy families, school was an inextricable part of daily life. From early in the morning until late in the afternoon the young scholars at the traditional schools studied the Chinese classics while those who were fortunate enough to attend the Western schools sponsored by the Korean government or by missionaries studied various subjects including foreign languages, math, sciences and history. As in the present, these young men were the hopes of their families for a better life. At some point most boys married – those who did not, despite their age, were considered boys and would be treated as such. Most marriages were arranged, usually while the brides and grooms were yet in their teens. The bride’s lot was one of harsh contrast. Western missionaries relate that on the night of the wedding, young Korean brides often cried uncontrollably, filled with sorrow at being separated from their families and apprehensive of their lives at their inlaws’ homes. On the day of their wedding, they were required by Korean custom to remain perfectly silent and to display no emo-
Words BY Robert Neff
tion at all – despite the villainous efforts of their in-laws. While many things have changed over the past century in Korea, the freedom of youth is still undeniably short. At younger and younger ages, Korean children are forced to study. They endure long hours at school followed by academies, and even at home they are not free from lessons given by private tutors and educational programs on TV. There can be little wonder why May 5th of every year is one of Korean kids’ favorite holidays. Children’s Day is one of the few days that they can just be children and play to their heart’s content.
Top: school circa 1910-1920, bottom: children laborers circa 1900-1920 Pictures from the Collection of Robert Neff 10 Magazine May 2011 | 13
Shot by Dylan Goldby
A TASTE OF KOREA
When Barley Met Rice Boribap 보리밥
W o rds by C ia r a n H ic k e y, e x ec u t i v e c h ef o f t h e w se o u l walker h ill
In a country where so many dishes are claimed to either ensure your “well being” or endow you with mystical powers of virility, boribap has its own special place as the healthy option.
I
t’s safe to say I’ll never be described as a health food nut, so those who know me may be surprised by this month’s featured dish. Boribap is essentially a dish of steamed rice and barley that is often served with doenjang jjigae or doenjangguk (similar to Japan’s miso soup) and assorted banchan (side dishes). Rice, of course, has long been at the core of Korean cuisine, but back in leaner times, it wasn’t always in plentiful supply. During periods when the rice allocation was strictly controlled, other grains including barley were added to the rice to give it volume. Boribap has come from this less-than-glamorous background to become a popular cuisine of its own.
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While cooking this rice-and-barley combination, the ratio of each is a matter of personal taste, but barley should be in greater proportion to keep the dish authentic. Barley takes a little longer to cook than the rice so it can be parboiled before being added to the rice pot. The rice starch will help keep the whole mix together when cooked. Again, what to serve on the side is a matter of choice, but doenjangguk is the most wellknown. When I first tried it, the boribap was served almost like a version of bibimbap with a lot of greens and sprouts added to the barley and mixed together with gochujang (red pepper paste) Naturally, kimchi makes an appearance along with whatever namul (greens) the restaurant has made that day. You’ll also find grilled fish and meat at some places. As one of the highlights of my time in Korea, I was served a small dish of boribap at an amazing temple cuisine dinner in Suwon last year. Buddhist monks have apparently made this vegetarian dish their own by adding plants and herbs from the mountains to the barley rice. In fact, the city of Suwon actually served 2,010 portions of boribap cooked at once in a huge pan as part of one of their annual festivals. Who said vegetarian food was just a passing trend?
Netizen’s Picks Borigol 보릿골 This restaurant specializes in boiled barley and provides cheonggukjang along with eight side dishes made from fresh veggies. Finish up your meal with sungnyung (숭늉), a soup made of the burned rice (and barley) at the bottom of the bowl. 1064-6 Gyesan 3-dong, Gyeyang-gu, Incheon. borigol.co.kr 032-544-1101 Byeokodong 벽오동 Experience the traditional flavors of Jeolla Province at this boribap restaurant. The barley is served first, and nearly twenty side dishes follow. Mix the boiled barley with bossam for the perfect combination. 872 Sang-dong, Mokpo, Jeollanam-do. 061-284-2249 Gohyangjeong Boribap Buffet 고향정 Looking for an inexpensive buffet where you can enjoy hefty servings of healthy boiled barley with a wide variety of side dishes? This is the place to go. 571-1 Gwangjang-dong, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul. 고향정.kr 02-455-0180
IN THE KITCHEN Executive Chef Wayne Golding treats his customers to a revolutionary buffet experience.
W
hen I step into The King’s Premium Live Buffet at the Grand Ambassador Hotel, I’m overwhelmed. Confronted by mou ntains of seafood, roast ducks and a walk-in dessert cabinet, I want to dig in straight away. But I resist, since the main attraction here is Australian Executive Chef Wayne Golding, who has transformed this thirty-five-year old restaurant into something extraordinary. Hailing from the small town of Yamba in New South Wales, Golding started out in his father’s footsteps as a fisherman. He worked nights on the boats and studied during the day. After f lirtations with carpentry, metal fabrication and architecture, he turned to the kitchen, rising up the ranks at a breakneck pace. From Yamba, he went to Sydney, then onto Dubai and Hanoi, before he found himself at the Paradise Hotel in Busan and his Korean career really began. He has been living here for
the past seven years and has been working at the Grand Ambassador since 2009. He is committed to making King’s the best buffet in the country, and he is bringing some exciting new ideas to the dining
table. At King’s, everything is “live,” meaning that instead of lukewarm trays filled with congealed sauces, you can expect your food freshly cooked to order in front of your eyes. He has assembled a crack team of chefs to assist him, including a Chinese station complete with a dim sum expert, a roast meats master and a wok specialist. He has also ensured that seafood fans can get oysters all year round and that all the produce at King’s is the freshest it can be. It wasn’t always that easy to source exotic fresh ingredients in Korea, and Chef Golding remembers when he used to have to scour the department stores in order to source the best products available. However, his job is a little easier now and he has even managed get a supply of fresh shrimp for the restaurant. As a fisherman’s son, he knows that there’s a big difference in taste between fresh and frozen. The King’s Premium Live Buffet is in good hands with this Yamba boy, who knows the importance of “live” food and treats his customers to one of the best hotel buffets in Seoul.
A Buffet Fit for a King W o rds A N D S HOT S by Pau l M at t h e ws
Chef Wayne Golding’s Beef Oscar
serves four
Beef tenderloin grilled and served with asparagus, crab meat and hollandaise sauce. Ingredients
• 800 g beef tenderloin • 250 g fresh green asparagus • 250 g king crab leg meat, cooked and chilled • Hollandaise sauce (500 ml) Fi n ishi n g t h e d ish
1 Clean the asparagus, blanch them and keep them warm. 2 Grill beef tenderloin medallions. 3 Place crab meat and asparagus over the beef tenderloin medallions. 4 Spoon the hollandaise sauce over. 5 Place on the grill to lightly brown. Variations: Add shrimp instead of crab and asparagus and you have surf and turf!
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Hollandaise sauce (500 ml)
• 500 g unsalted butter • 8 crushed white peppercorns • 5 egg yolks
• 50 ml vinegar • Salt to taste • 5 ml lemon juice
1 Place the butter in a bain-marie, skim and keep warm. 2 Place peppercorns in a small stainless steel pot and reduce with the vinegar from 50 ml down to 25 ml. Allow this reduction to cool. 3 Whisk the egg yolks in a stainless steel bowl. Keep whisking them over a bain-marie until they become thick and ribbon-like (sabayon). Remove them from the heat and continue whisking until cool. 4 Gradually add the butter and keep whisking. Add a pinch of salt and the lemon juice to finish. 5 Strain and set aside. Note: The Hollandaise sauce is an egg-based sauce and needs to be used within one hour. Throw out if not used.
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10 Magazine May 2011 | 17
Ex pat Ex per tise
Streets and the City Surviving Driving in the Land of the Morning Traffic Jam Last year, my wife and I got a car. While driving in North America can be a pleasure of life, Canada’s open road is nothing like what you’ll find in Korea’s cities. Year by year, Korea lingers at the top of the lists for highest car accident and pedestrian fatality rates in the OECD, and anybody who’s taken a taxi ride knows Korea’s city traffic can get wooly. However, these harrowing roadways can be navigated. From my own time driving, here are some pointers for surviving the streets without sacrificing your sanity. Awa r e n e s s
windows, especially imports, deserve an extra eyeball, too: they drive with a greater sense of entitlement than other drivers, and are most likely to cut you off, or block you from changing lanes. Meanwhile, bikers come out of nowhere and ignore any rule of the road that won’t help them deliver their pizza: use your mirrors a lot to stay aware of all four corners of your car. Taxi and bus drivers might be aggressive, but they’re also usually very experienced, for what it’s worth.
T h e most i m p ortan t, p oss i bly
life-preserving rule, is simply this: what the cars around you are doing is more important than the lights, lines and signs on the road—by a huge degree. Whether that’s lane-weaving cars in the city or red-light-runners in the country who think nobody’s looking, the road signs are good, but awareness of your surroundings is better. If you plan to drive in the city, ask
Ask first
first, “Do I actually need to drive?” Between traff ic, parking scarcity and prices, and Korean cities’ ever-improving public transit systems, often a subway or bus is easier, less stressful, and even faster. If your destination is close to a busy city center, or it’s rush hour, public transit might be a better choice. If your destination is farther from the city center than you are, driving becomes a viable option.
Until all the world’s idiot drivers
Wat c h out
have stickers on their cars, you should drive defensively around the far right lanes. Buses, taxis, delivery bikes and trucks, cart-pulling seniors and a full complement of wet and dry goods vendors either dodge in and out of this lane—or even set up shop. Cars with tinted
Li k e busi n ess or dat i ng cult ur e , Turn signals
driving also follows different logic in different countries, and what works well in one country might fail completely elsewhere. My Canadian-style hesitations and shoulder-checks had Korean drivers taking my spots before I could move. Few drivers on downtown roads will give you space. You have to take it for yourself. The often-underutilized turn signal doesn’t always help with this, either: sometimes you just have to start nosing a little into the lane you want, and let other drivers give you the space once they notice you’re on your way. This is part of why cars here are often seen straddling two lanes.
Exchanging your License The Seoul Global Center can help you exchange a valid driver’s license from another country for a Korean license. It’s quick and easy: I had mine in hand in about 90 minutes. Docu m e nt s
• Home country driver’s license (full and valid, not temporary or probationary) • Korean alien registration card • Passport • A certificate from your embassy verifying your license’s validity (contact your embassy for more details) • Three color passport-sized photos
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10 Magazine May 2011
Proc e d u r e
• Fill out an application and pay for printing your license (W6,000). • Get a simple check at a nearby medical clinic (W5,000). • Citizens of some countries (USA, Australia, New Zealand, China, and others) must write a 20-question multiple choice exam (W6,000), while other countries (Canada, Ireland, United Kingdom, many EU countries) are exempt. • Your original license goes in storage at the center. To get it back, bring ID and an airplane ticket out of the country to the center.
Contact the Seoul Global Center for more information if you don’t have a drivers’ license from your home country. It’s located on the third floor of the Seoul Press Center behind City Hall (City Hall Stn. ex. 4). Open M-F 9 am – 6 pm. english.seoul.go.kr 02-2075-4127
Words by Rob Ouwehand Because many of Korea’s cities are
GPS
old, with new thoroughfares layered over old neighborhoods and their one-way, dead-end corners, a GPS system will help you navigate the unexpected one-ways, disappearing-reappearing lanes, surprise on-ramps and the like. Shell out for an English-speaking one, or get used to reading it by sight. It takes some practice, but after a few wrong turns, a good navigation system can become your best friend. Before you get your frothing road
City life
Bright side
Adjusting
rage on, don’t forget that every big city’s roads are a bit of a madhouse. Opting to be patient instead of impatient will get you farther ahead— maybe not in the left-turn lane, but in more important areas like life expectancy and mental balance. My driving experience back in Canada was mostly small and medium-sized towns; heading into Korea’s big cities is different, but that’s a function of cities, not Korea in particular. Korea’s high accident rate has its causes, but if you’re out on the road, those issues take a back seat to the cars in the next lane. So, after harping on all the things
that can go wrong on the roads in Korea’s cities, what are the good points? Two things always impress me about Korea’s city drivers: one, they generally know the dimensions of their cars extremely well. Out of necessity, of course, many can fit big cars in tiny, tiny spaces. Also, because many rules of the road are mostly taken as suggestions, in the city and the countryside alike, most drivers are ready for an unpredictable or foolish maneuver from another driver at any time. This means that when something unexpected does happen, they adjust. To do well as a driver here, I recommend you try to do the same. When I was sixteen, my driving
coach wanted me to watch pedestrians, lights, signs, and other cars all at once. Overwhelmed, I first wondered how I could do it, but with practice, I learned to take it all in. Korean city streets were the same at first: I had no idea how I’d learn to watch so many things at once, but I did, and in time, you will too.
10 Magazine May 2011 | 19
asi a n desti nation
Cebu’s Got It All! W o rds BY C u r t is L e e
Manila
The Philippines Cebu
20 10 Magazine May 2011
I
t’s a 4-hour flight away. Nearly everyone speaks English. The worldclass resorts are a mere 15 minutes from the airport. The shopping malls boast all your favorite brand names, 20-cent mangoes, 50-cent San Miguel beer, a wide variety of deodorant and all of the other comforts of home you’ve been missing. Koreans have already discovered that Cebu’s got it all – now it’s your turn.
Choose Your Adventure
Out to the Islands There’s a lot more to see besides just Cebu and Mactan, and if you have the time you absolutely have to take a trip to some of the outlying islands. There are protected reefs and area sanctuaries teeming with fish and there’s no better company to get you to them than Islands Banca. For less than a night in a hotel, you’ll get a private boat to take you and your friends to dine on secluded beaches or enjoy a 5-course seafood lunch on a restaurant on stilts. They offer a ton of other great ways to make your trip special, too. Check out their great site at islandsbanca.com.
Skyscraper Skydiving Adventure seekers can of course do their diving below sea level, but if you’d like an adrenaline rush that you can’t get anywhere else, the Crown Regency’s Sky Experience Adventure is just the ticket. It includes their Edge Coaster which will dangle you 40 stories up at a 55-degree angle as well as a number of other ways to scare the wits out of you by exploiting your body’s natural fear of heights. skyexperienceadventure.com
One of the best-priced ways to visit Cebu is on their namesake carrier, Cebu Pacific, whose very democratic motto is, “It’s time everyone flies.” The Philippines’ largest national flag carrier, they fly from Manila to Incheon twice daily and from Cebu to Incheon daily. For those of you in the south, they also depart from Busan to Cebu twice weekly, and will begin flying three times per week as of June 15, 2011. For more information, visit www.cebupacificair.com. 10 Magazine May 2011 | 21
mperial Palace Waterpark Resort and Spa is Cebu’s newest 5-star hotel with 556 luxuriously furnished rooms including 172 deluxe rooms, 380 suites and 48 Villas with either a private pool or Jacuzzi. The resort’s main feature is its one of a kind Waterpark with several themed pools that both adults and kids can enjoy. Enjoy a one of a kind adventure at the Wave Pool – an artificial tide pool, the Amazon River Pool – a flowing current pool, Captain Hook’s Pool, Toddler’s Pool and Beach Pool. Experience the adventure at the two exciting Tube Slides and thrilling Space Bowl. An extensive array of water sports and activities are also available to choose from. The pristine white beach offers guests a place to relax, sun and swim. Kayaking and snorkeling gear are available, as well as various aquasports like banana boat, island hopping and diving. Imperial Palace is also home to the fastest jetski, the 2500cc zetski. Imperial Palace Waterpark Resort and Spa, Cebu offers you a total resort experience Beyond Your Imagination. For reservations and inquiries, please call (+6332) 494 – 5555 or email us at rsvn@ip-cebu.com. Log on to www. imperialpalace-cebu.com.
asi a n desti nation Ayala Mall
22 | 10 Magazine May 2011
K
orea’s the perfect place to be when it comes to traveling Asia. With China to the west, Japan to the east, and an unbelievable plethora of nations to the south, every vacation choice can be a challenge. Shall I go see Angkor Wat this time, or would shopping in Hong Kong be a better agenda? Laying on the beach in Phuket or perhaps a jaunt to Shanghai? It’s enough to make even the most homesick Westerner consider spending a few more years in Korea. There’s one not-so-distant destination, however, where you can have it all in one short trip - and Koreans have already made this discovery. The #1 tourist group to Cebu Island in the Philippines is Koreans - and who would know better where to travel out of Korea than Koreans? Over 20% of the fun-seekers in Cebu are Hangukin, and you’ll see the evidence everywhere, with plenty of Korean restaurants and signs for PC Bang, Noraebang and more. If you need your kimchi fix, it’s there. But we’re talking about a getaway here, and Cebu has by no means become a little Korea. To understand what Cebu is, however, you should first know that Cebu can actually mean a lot of different places. Cebu Province is an area in the Philippines consisting of the big island of Cebu and 167 surrounding islands. Cebu City, the second largest metropolitan area in the Philippines, is of course on Cebu Island, and is connected to the small island of Mactan (part of Cebu Province) by a couple of bridges. It’s on Mactan where you will find the Mactan-Cebu International Airport and many of the area’s best resorts. What does this mean to you? If you’ve only got 3 - 5 days to spend on your next vacation, it’s hard to think of a better place to visit than Cebu. After a short 4-hour flight, you’ll be in a beautiful tropical climate and only minutes away from glorious beaches, amazing shopping, great dining at a fraction of the cost of Korea, and all of the terrific nightlife that Cebu has to offer. And the prices are Philippine prices too. How does 5 avocados for a dollar sound to you? Or a glass of San Miguel (that’s domestic beer here!) in a classy restaurant for 50 cents? Any golfers out there? Would you be interested in a 1-hour golf lesson at Lapu Lapu Driving Range with a PGA-certified Pro? That’ll be $8, please. Oh, and did I mention that a 90-minute massage runs for about man won? That’s right. $10 will get you an hour and a half of all-body tension release. There are some great perks for families as well. Animated movies, unlike in Korea, are shown in plain English - not dubbed. Of course, everyone will enjoy the $3 price to go see a movie. Wear a sweater though - the air conditioning will be pumping. And wouldn’t you love to take the kids to a nice bookstore loaded with English books? This is the place. All in all, it’s hard to think of a better place to take a quick getaway than Cebu. And with seven different airlines offering 49 direct weekly flights out of Incheon, Busan and even Jeju, the competition is fierce for your ticket as well. Last-minute flights can be found for as low as W200,000 before tax. (Check out 072.com for some amazing deals - if you speak Korean.)
Staying in Style
T h e S h o pping and N ig h t life H ot el
Cebu City Marriott Hotel The Marriott in Cebu affords you a prime location from which to launch your shopping blitzkrieg and/or big-city revelry. To start with, you’ll hardly have to leave the premises as the Marriott is attached to the massive and beautiful Ayala Mall, which boasts four floors of indoor/outdoor shopping surrounding a courtyard with a lovely waterfall and a 4-screen cinema. The Marriott is also very reasonably priced compared to the resorts. Expect to pay only a little more than you would for an average motel here in Korea for 5-star comfort at the Cebu City Marriott. Don’t miss their beautiful outdoor Pool Bar too even if you’re not staying there. Oh, and the accommodating concierge will point you in the direction of the best nightlife in Cebu, only a 5-minute taxi ride away. https://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/ cebph-cebu-city-marriott-hotel/
T h e Family R eso rt
The Shangri-la Mactan Resort & Spa A little slice of heaven for you and your family. Tons of stuff for the kids to do - swimming pools and water slides, a private beach with rentals available for just about every water sport you can imagine, a massive playground, a toddler zone, and a video arcade. For the adults, there’s a 6-hole golf course, tennis center, heath club and 10,000 m2 spa. You could spend an entire 5-day vacation here if you wanted to - and you wouldn’t be the first. Recommended: go for a suite in the Ocean Wing with Ocean Club access. Yes, it’s a little more expensive, but it’s more than made up for by the complimentary buffet breakfast, evening cocktail hour with light buffet and full bar, and free use of non-motorized water sports. It’s well-worth the extra cost, and the ocean view’s a nice perk too. shangri-la.com/en/property/cebu/mactanresort 10 Magazine May 2011 | 23
The Way of Tea From the side streets of Insadong to the plantations of Boseong, Korea has got a lot to offer lovers of tea. W o r d s a n d s h o t s b y P au l M at t h e ws Master Chae Won-hwa, who teaches at the Panyaro Institute for the Way of Tea in Insadong, prepares some green tea.
I
sit cross-legged in a small room on the third floor of a grey brick building on the main street of Insadong. This is the Panyaro Institute for the Way of Tea, and I’m lucky enough to be spending time with the Great Tea Master Chae Won-hwa. Watching her make Panyaro tea (translated as “tea of the dew of enlightening wisdom”) is a transcendental experience. I sit in silence with two of her students as Master Chae scoops hot water into bowls and spoons strands of dark green leaves into the tea pot. Every action is precise, every movement deliberate and yet it all seems to flow so naturally. The silence continues. Master Chae finally pours warm water into the tea pot and cradles it in her hands. Outside we can hear the rush of traffic and the babbling of tourists, but in this small
24 10 Magazine May 2011
S h ot s b y S im o n B o n d
room we are at peace. This process gives space for the mind to clear, for a moment of meditation. Finally the time comes for it to be poured and I accept my first cup of this unique green tea. Great Tea Master Chae Won-hwa teaches the Korean Way of Tea. She studied under the Venerable Hyodang (the Buddhist monk who led the 20th century revival of the Korean tea tradition), founded the Panyaro Institute after his death and began teaching others about Seoncha (선차, Zen tea). For the past forty years, she has been involved with the preparation of Panyaro tea, which is hand-picked on the slopes of Jiri Mountain and then dried and treated with the utmost care. If you’ve only ever had green tea in tea bags, then you’re in for a real surprise. The tea that Chae Won-hwa and others like her prepare has profound levels of flavour. Master Chae believes that in just one cup of her tea you can taste salt, sweet, sour, bitter, tart and pepperiness. And tea is not just something to gulp down: you should take your time, look at the color, inhale the fragrance, taste it on your tongue and then in your throat. The Korean Way of Tea allows you to take a moment out of your busy life and reflect, finding calm in the process and pleasure in the drinking. Of course, Korea’s relationship with green tea goes back much further than the Panyaro Institute. For almost two thousand years it has been a part of Korean life, whether supped by royals or used as part of memorial ceremonies. However, it is in the Buddhist temples of Korea that the tradition of making and drinking
A festival is held at the Boseong Planation each May as the tea leaves reach maturity.
Insadong Tea House
tea really flourished. At Jiri Mountain on the border of Jeolla and Gyeongsang Provinces, tea has been cultivated by monks for many centuries. This is where you can experience tea-making first hand thanks to the Royal Asiatic Society, which is organizing a tour to Hwaeom Temple at the end of May led by Brother Anthony of Taizé (see p. 10 for an interview with him). But there are many other opportunities to experience tea culture at this time of year, whether it is heading down to the vast tea fields of Boseong for the Boseong Green Tea Festival or the Hadong Wild Tea Cultural Festival (both at the beginning of May, see the Jeolla Calendar) or to the Tea World Festival at COEX (beginning of June, see the Seoul calendar) or simply taking a trip to one of the many tea shops around the country. Insadong is a prime location for tea enthusiasts with plenty of cozy cafés and tea shops to explore. Whether you fancy taking tea with wild birds, sitting out in the sunshine or visiting some of the oldest tea houses in Seoul, there’s a lot to do. Also, you’re not limited to just green tea: Korea has plenty of other interesting teas and infusions to tempt you (see sidebar on the next page), each with its own particular flavor and personality. Back at Panyaro as I sit and talk to Master Chae about her passion for sharing the Way of Tea, I realize that one cup has turned to five, ninety minutes have passed and that each cup of tea (all made from the same leaves) has been different from the last. Each time water is poured over the leaves, the flavors change and deepen. Who would believe that those little green strands are capable of creating such extraordinary sensations? My time up, I say goodbye to Master Chae and her students and then walk down the stairs and out into the noisy streets of Insadong. This meeting has been a brief respite from a busy afternoon, but I feel refreshed and energized from the experience. Life is short, but there is always time for a cup of tea. F u r t h e r D o wn the Tea Trail Tea enthusiasts can get in touch with the organizations mentioned in the article using the following information. Panyaro Institute for the Way of Tea (Left image) 57 Bukchon-ro 11-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul panyaro@naver.com 02-763-8486, 019-265-8485
FRESH NEW FLAVORS FOR SPRING, COME AND ENJOY WHAT’S BLOOMING AT BE COZY, BE TRENDY, BE SEEN,
BETWEEN TEL _ 02 795 6164 enjoybetween@gmail.com 124-7 ITAEWONDONG, YONSANGU, SEOUL HAMILTON HOTEL
ITAEWON-RO
ITAEWON-RO FIRE STATION
Royal Asiatic Society Korea Branch raskb.com 02-763-9483 10 Magazine May 2011 | 25
VALET PARKING AVAILABLE
If green tea leaves leave you feeling green, try spinning the color wheel. Here are ten other piquant teas to get you started.
Ginseng tea 인삼차 (insamcha): Use that most famous of roots
to boost your body. This is great if you’re feeling under the weather, but be warned, it’s a potent mixture that doesn’t suit everyone.
Five flavor tea 오미자차 (omijacha): Served either hot or cold,
this sweet-and-sour bright red concoction is perfect for those looking for a fruity drink. Served on ice, it’s a wonderful antidote to Korea’s hot and humid summers.
Chrysanthemum tea 국화차 (gukhwacha): Mixed with honey,
this will supposedly brighten your eyesight and improve your brain power. Perhaps one of the prettiest teas around, as you can watch the dried flowers bloom in your pot.
Double harmony tea 쌍화차 (ssanghwacha): Another good
drink for when you have a cold or are feeling a little down. This dark brown liquid is made using traditional medicinal herbs and roots and sometimes tastes a little like Christmas pudding.
Citron tea 유자차 (yujacha): A glorious mix of honey and citron
peel that tastes like marmalade in a cup.
Tea Shop Around the Corner The first place to go for traditional tea shops is Insadong, but don’t stop there. Wherever you go, there’s probably an old hanok with a resident tea master just around the bend. Ajabang 아자방 1460-160 Namsanri, Gakbuk-myeon, Cheongdo-gun, Gyeongsangbuk-do, 054-371-2144
Mysterious statues and mementos dot the yard in front of this teahouse, and a quaint pavilion overlooks a small pond. Ambiance aside, the tea on offer doesn’t disappoint: connoisseurs can choose from ujeon, sejak, or jungjak green tea. Da Kyeong Hyang Shil 다경향실
Royal milk tea 로열밀크티: Hailing from Japan, this super
sweet milky black tea is a great twist on the British cuppa. Sacrilegious to some, manna from tea heaven to others.
Ginger tea 생강차 (saenggangcha): Spicy and sweet, this feels
really good for you. My wife swears by it whenever either of us gets ill (she boils nashi pears with the ginger for extra flavor).
Quince tea 모과차 (mogwacha): Similar to citron tea, the quince
blends tartness with comforting hot sweetness.
Jujube tea 대추차 (daechucha): This stimulates your appetite
and also helps you get to sleep.
2F 18 Gwanhun-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul, 02-723-3651
A favorite of Brother Anthony’s, this cozy tea house offers a wide selection of the best teas Korea has to offer. It’s a good place to check out Korean green and yellow teas. The Garden for Drinking Tea 차마시는뜰 Cha Masineun Tteul 35-169 Samcheong-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul, 02-722-7006
This gorgeous hanok is a little hard to find, but it offers a beautiful view of the area and an enormous selection of teas.
Yellow tea 황차 (hwangcha): Oxidized tea leaves create a brew
which is halfway between black and green tea. Something a little bit different for the adventurous tea drinker.
10’s Favorite Teas
26 10 Magazine May 2011
S t e ph e n R e v e r e
Davi d C a r r u t h
Joe McPherson
“At Korean markets you can find an unbelievable plethora of leaves, bark and roots that Koreans use to make “tea.” My favorite combination is dunggulle with a little gyepi (cinnamon). I boil up gallons of it, refrigerate it and drink it instead of water - or cola!”
“For chilly days when a cold’s coming on, there’s nothing for it but yujacha. Plop a couple of spoonfuls into a mug of boiling water, stir it up, and start sipping on the citrusy goodness.”
“I like both yujacha and the pine needle tea served at teahouses. Both of them make me think of Christmas.”
M at t h e w C r aw f o r d
“My favorite would have to be Indian chai tea—procured directly in India, as opposed to Starbucks.”
C ha r l e s M o n t g o m e r y
“My favorite kind of tea is Long Island Iced Tea. That comes with the hard-bitten and gruff drinker territory that I inhabit. My wife likes Lipton tea or green tea lattes, which neither of us were even aware existed prior to coming to Korea.”
Insadong Traditional Tea House 인사동 전통 찻집 96-5 Gwanhun-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul, 02-723-4909
This seemingly small tea house leads on into a traditional courtyard with hanok-style rooms available. Find a secret place of peace in the middle of bustling Insadong. Jidaebang 지대방 2F 196-6 Gwanhun-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul, 02-738-5379
Established in 1982, this is one of the oldest tea shops in Insadong. Take a look at the comments scrawled all over the walls by past visitors. Old Tea Shop 옛찻집 Yetchatjip 2F 2-2 Gwanhun-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul, 02-722-5019
Spend an hour or two with feathered friends at this cute ramshackle tea shop (on the second floor, not the first). Wild birds fly freely, and if you’re not careful they’ll try to steal your rice cakes. Poetic Thoughts 시상 Sisang 2F 328-4 Yeonghwa-dong, Jangan-gu, Suwon-si, Gyeonggi-do, 031-246-9030
Just across from Jangan Gate at Hwaseong Fortress is this old-timey, quiet teashop. As you drink one of the homemade teas, flip through worn notebooks to see the scribbles and sketches of decades of poetically minded guests. Tea 22233 1F 455-40 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, 070-423-42320
The coolest tea shop in Itaewon is right by the pedestrian overpass near Noksapyeong Station. Here you’ll find some great cheap teas and baked goods, including mugwort bread. Try the tea of the day (when I last went it was made from dried wild leaves harvested in Gyeongsang Province). Trinitea 트리니티 90-80 Daehyeon-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul, 02-313-0218
Head to this Ewha University spot for a more European tea experience. I highly recommend the royal milk tea made to their own special recipe using condensed milk. Youiga 여의가 934-2 Dalsan-ri, Jeonggwan-myeon, Gijang-gun, Busan, 051-727-0740
Escape from the suburban ambition of Jeonggwan New City (between Busan and Ulsan) at this hilltop teashop. Climb to the 2nd floor for a great view that gets even better when the sun sets.
k yo u n gh e e l im
S ta f f o r d Lums d e n
I remember when Koreans used to have barley tea (보리차) instead of water just as the Chinese drink puer tea. Today, people tend to drink purified and bottled water instead, but barley tea remains the simplest, most accessible tea for the average Korean.
“I only discovered black teas at university. Just off campus there was a little ‘English Tea Shoppe’ where I discovered Lady Grey, admittedly a proprietary blend from manufacturers Twinnings, but delicious nevertheless and served by the pot with a slice of freshly cut orange.” 10 Magazine May 2011 | 27
E dited by DAVID CA R RU TH and sunkyung L e e
Free Pasta for Kids
Astoria Hotel This May, the Astoria Hotel’s Italian restaurant 63 Bella Coolla is offering each child accompanied by an adult one free order of pasta (carbonara or tomato sauce). Plus, guests can get a taste of the new cold pasta and other seasonal menu items at a 20% discount. Ten customers who leave comments on Bella Coolla 63’s blog will also receive a limited edition bottle of Evian designed by Paul Smith. This offer is good through May. 02-2275-7473
Big Savings with the MY Membership Card
Marriott Executive Apartments Those who regularly visit the Marriott Executive Apartments for the superb dining there now have a chance to enjoy some of their favorite things at up to 50% off the regular price. Available for W250,000 (including tax), the MY membership card gets you big discounts on meals, drinks, rooms, and spa treatments. Among other benefits, cardholders that check in for an overnight stay between Friday and Sunday will receive 50% off the rack rate, as well as 10% off a spa treatment. measeoul.com 02-2090-8050
Chill out with Citronade
Fraser Place Enjoy a great view of downtown Seoul as you try out what’s new on the spring menu. Need something new to boost your sagging energy? Fraser Place’s residence lounge offers you the fantastic taste of a completely new fruitade. The popular hot tea yujacha (citron tea) reappears as a chilled drink that’s just right for the warmer weather. The sweet-and-sour drink is poured over crushed ice and topped with citron slices. fraserplace.co.kr 02-2220-8888
Share Dining Delights at the MoMo Café
Courtyard Marriott The “Sharing Dinner” dining package is the perfect way to bring the whole family together. During the months of May and June, family groups of three or more can enjoy an opulent four-course meal. The main course is served on one large plate so the entire party can join in on the feast. 5:30 – 10:30 pm. W40,000 ++ per person. courtyardseoul.com 02-2638- 3000
Gifts for Families and Children
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10 Magazine May 2011
Imperial Palace Hotel Take advantage of one of the Imperial Palace Hotel’s family gift packages to enhance your stay at the hotel. With the Gift for Families package, guests can play board games like Rummikub or Jenga while they chow down on a box of cookies, while the Gift for Children option features a Cocomongthemed backpack for the kids. All packages include buffet breakfast for two at Café Amiga. May 1st - June 30th. W239,000++ - W250,000++. imperialpalace.co.kr 02-3440-8000
Special Treatment at the Spa
JW Marriott Seoul Through May 31st, guests can enjoy some extra pampering with the Deluxe Aromatherapy Treatment for couples (W220,000++ per person) at the new couple room at the JW Marriott’s Marquis Thermal Spa. Relax as you enjoy a onehour full-body massage from one of the top-rated masseuses in the city followed by a 30-minute facial treatment. jw-marriott.co.kr 02-6282-6578
+ = subject to 10% VAT, ++ = subject to 10% VAT and 10% service charge
“Super Food 10” Set Menu
Grand Café at the Grand InterContinental Seoul Parnas With the Grand Café’s Super Food 10 set menu, guests can indulge in the world’s top 10 super foods as selected by Time magazine. This set menu is expected to be especially popular with those in search of well-balanced meals to replenish their energy this spring. Available through May. W75,000++. seoul.intercontinental.com 02-559-7614
Outdoor Dining at The Garden
The Ritz-Carlton Seoul The Ritz-Carlton Seoul’s European restaurant The Garden will open its outdoor dining area just in time for Seoul’s lovely spring weather. Australian chef Chris Taylor has been invited to share his special BBQ techniques and original recipes. In addition to six different fullcourse dinner options, a variety of other non-BBQ dining options created by Chris are also available (W50,000++ W120,000++). May 2nd - 31st. ritzcarltonseoul.com 02-3451-8000
Various Promotions for Family Month
IP Boutique Hotel Make the family-oriented holidays falling at the beginning of May even more special by visiting Café Amiga at the IP Boutique Hotel. On Children’s Day (May 5th), the balloon-festooned restaurant will feature a special buffet with hamburgers, pasta, jajangmyeon, and other kid favorites. Other events will be held from May 7th – 8th for Parents’ Day and May 11th – 15th for Teachers’ Day. ipboutiquehotel.com 02-3702-8033
La Traviata Opera Package
Grand Hyatt Seoul The Grand Hyatt Seoul is launching the La Traviata Opera Package so guests at the hotel can enjoy one of the world’s most renowned operas. The package includes a night in a Grand Room River View, free use of the indoor gym and pool, a 50% discount on the sauna, and two VIP tickets for the La Traviata performance. Reservations will be accepted through May 15th. W550,000++. hyatt.com 02-799-8888 10 Magazine May 2011 | 29
Expat News M ay 2011
Nanta and Jump Expand Market with New Theaters
HBC Fest Brings 80 Live Acts to One Street
Five years ago, when Haebangchon was a little-known neighbourhood, two local expats had the brainwave of hosting a music festival in three of their favourite local bars. Now, the HBC Fest is one of the most popu-
lar festivals in Korea for creative and fun-loving expats. Located i n H a e b a n g c h o n, t h e ex p a t neighbourhood within walking distance of Itaewon, the fest will present over 80 eclectic live acts from noon to midnight on Saturday, May 21st. Seven live stages will host 80 musical acts ranging from folk acoustic to punk rock, from jazz to reggae, and from comedy to plain festival antics. Many of the musicians are of a very high standard and have been part of the Seoul music scene since before the first HBC Fest in 2006. To get there, get out at Noksapyeong Stn. (line 6, ex. 2), walk down the hill and take a left at the kimchi pots. For more details, visit hbcfest.com.
TwinLuxe Offers a Sharper Shave
Daejeon Bikers Ride for Needy Kids
Cheonan Sponsors Low-Cost Tours
Twinluxe is a new line of shaving products aiming to bring pleasure to the mundane act of shaving. The TwinLuxe Fine Shaving Instruments are designed by the exterior designer of the Rolls-Royce Phantom car with a clean, classic and modern look. These shaving sets incorporate the latest materials and coatings used in fine wristwatches, exotic automobiles and surgical instruments. And since TwinLuxe also offers Shaving Skincare, you don’t need to turn elsewhere for your skin products. The seven items in this series incorporate anti-aging Asian botanicals such as pearl powder and hydrolyzed rice protein and are formulated to be non-greasy, long-lasting, and lightweight. twinluxe.com
This May 28th will see the 3rd annual Angel’s Ride for Charity in Daejeon. Motorcycle riders are encouraged to join the ride and festivities by donating their time and the money pledged by their sponsors to support the underprivileged children of Daejeon. This year’s event promises to be bigger and better than previous years with the sponsorship of the Daejeon International Community Center (DICC). Guests at the event can snack on the cultural delights offered by food vendors while listening to performances by the Hajimamas, two-year finalists in the Busan Battle of the Bands, and other groups. The outdoor stage in Daeheung-dong is easily accessible by subway. Simply exit at Jungangno Station (exit 4). For more information, contact Todd at todd@daejeonaccess.com or 010-8331-0536.
Every year from March to November, the city of Cheonan offers affordable city tours for Korean citizens and international visitors. There is a lot of history and culture to be discovered in this great city. During the tour, you can walk through the Independence Memorial Hall, which displays past generations’ struggles towards freedom, or you can discover the beauty of Cheonan through Gwangduk and Gakwon Temples on Taejo Mountain. Interactive activities are also available during the city tour: ring a bell at Independence Memorial Hall or pick grapes at Geobong Grape Village. The tours run four days a week (Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays) and the courses vary depending on the day. Prices range from W2,000 to W4,000. For more information, visit the city of Cheonan’s website (cheonan.go.kr) or call 041-521-2038.
Two of Korea’s most popular open-run nonverbal per formances have just added some new theatres. Nanta, the humorous stor y of four cooks who turn a kitchen into a giant percussion set, opened its Hongdae theatre on April 26th, while Jump, the martial arts-themed comic show, is staging its first show at the new 800-seat venue located on the campus of Jeju Halla University on April 28th. Nanta: nanta.co.kr 02-739-8288. Jump: hijump.co.kr 02-722-3995
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10 Magazine May 2011
Edited by A ngela lee and Dav i d Carru t h
CEO Suite, the Easy Solution to Your Office Headache CEO Suite, a serviced office company with centers in Jakarta, Singapore, Shanghai, and other Asian citie s, re c e ntly ope ne d its late st cente r at the Kyobo Building in Gwanghwamun, the heart of Seoul’s financial district. The office services available here are the perfect option for multinationals who are looking to add a small branch office, entrepreneurs who don’t have the capital for office renovation and a long-term lease, or companies that need short-term space for a special product. CEO Suite contacts the experts and deals with tedious tasks like company registration, work permits, recruitment, legalities, taxes, and accounting so that you don’t have to. And since clients deal directly with CEO Suite, there’s just one invoice at the end of the month. For smaller entrepreneurs and freelancers, CEO Suite also offers a virtual office, which is ideal for those who simply need a business address and a receptionist to take their calls. 02-2010-8888
Expats Take the Podium at Mountain Bike Race Expat mountain bikers made a good showing at the 12th National President’s Prize Mountain Bike Race, held at Yongdu Mountain MTB Park in Jecheon on April 2nd and 3rd. Expat teams, the Filthy Freeriders and Team IGK, blazed the trails in the downhill portion of the competition. In the Veterans Beginner category, Kevin Silverson (Filthy) took 1st, and in the Intermediate category, Will Wickham (IGK) placed 1st, David Hill (Filthy) 2nd, Matthew Overington (IGK) 4th and Craig Tronsgard 5th. All the competitors were impressed by the course, describing it as fast and challenging. To learn more about outdoor sports in Korea, contact Eddy at iguidekorea.com or 010-2080-9443. 10 Magazine May 2011 | 31
Gastronomic News Edited by A ngela lee and Dav i d Carru t h
M ay 2011
New Import Beer Raises the Gold Standard
Discounts on Food and Fun at Sheraton Grand Walkerhill Through Citi Cards From May 1st until July 31st, the Sheraton Grand Walkerhill Hotel is offering Citi Card customers two special discounts. During the three months of the promotion, Citi Card users get 20% off on weekday luncheons at buffet restaurant Four Seasons, and three lucky people will be randomly selected to receive complimentary dinner
vouchers. In addition, the hotel is giving a 40% discount on admission tickets and a 10% discount on the dinner show at Legend of Flower, a premiere theatrical performance that adds a contemporary edge to traditional Korean content. For more information, contact the Sheraton Grand Walkerhill Hotel (02-455-5000).
Along with a wide selection of reasonably priced wines, Pieroth Impor ts keeps Korea’s expats stocked with exciting import beers that are hard to find elsewhere. In addition to crowd-pleasers Red Sonja and 1831, one of Pieroth’s latest offerings is Moninger Gold, a mild golden brew that’s bottom-fermented and lightly hopped with a full malt flavor. This thirst-quencher is a true taste experience for beer connoisseurs.
Spring Menu Unveiled at Between
Custom Beef Cuts for HSM Customers Spring has finally arrived, which can mean only one thing: BBQ season is upon us! At your next outdoor grill party, visit High Street Market (HSM) for custom-cut steaks of any thickness or size. Imagine thick, juicy US or Australian beef cut just the way you like it. HSM can also slice or grind any cut of meat to your specific order. Beef, pork, lamb, turkey or chicken - they have it all. Some items do require advance notice, so just drop them an email to ensure it’s ready and waiting when you arrive. They also take special orders for those more exotic items. For more info, give them a call or send them an email. highstreetmarket2010@gmail.com 02-795-5450
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10 Magazine May 2011
On April 7th, a smar tly dressed set of guests clinked champagne glasses and tried out the new spring menu at Between, the Italian restaurant that has become a landmark of the Itaewon chic dining scene after just a year in business. Each season, Between’s Michelin 3-star chef Pietro Androsoni creates a new and exciting set of contemporary Italian dishes for his guests. Be sure to make a reservation so you can try the new flavors for yourself. betweenitaewon.com 02-795-6164
Phillies Pub Returns to the Haebangchon Strip The district of Haebangchon usually enjoys a level of anonymity compared to the glitz and glamour of Itaewon. But for those who live there, it is full of tasty eats, familiar faces and great little watering holes. At the center of the neighborhood sits Phillies Pub, newly renovated and better than ever. Phillies has been showing off its new looks for a few weeks now, with the reviews nothing less than stellar. The friendly staff, great menu and the new non-smoking interior are the talk of the neighborhood. There is always a game on the big screen, the Monday Skype Quiz is quickly becoming a “must-see” attraction, and the downstairs still offers pool and darts. To get to Phillies Pub, take subway line #6 to Noksapyeong, head out exit two and walk about 100m to the entrance of Haebangchon. Veer left at the kimchi pots and follow the main HBC road for about 150m. 02-793-2548
N e wcom e rs
Each month, 10 introduces you to some of the new faces in the expat community. Read on to learn about three of the most recent arrivals. A native of France, C h r i s t o p h e P i gan i ol’s openness to foreign cuisine has allowed him to enjoy living in Iceland, the Philippines, Singapore, and most recently, Korea, where he has learned to love samgyetang. During his five-year stay as the CEO of Zuellig Pharma Korea, he hopes to learn basic Korean so he can better interact with the people and culture. With this new skill set, he wants to enjoy the culture and history though the countryside, mountains, temples, and modern and ancient areas while appreciating the amazing quality of music and art in Korea. As a vegetarian, Wou t e r A n d r e Bann i ng is finding the local cuisine a bit of a challenge in Korea. However, this Dutchman will not let that deter him from enjoying his new home and hopes to hike in the mountains, make new friends in the community, and successfully train and coach the management and staff as the general manager at the Fraser Place Central Seoul. He previously put his management skills to use in Pattaya, Thailand (where he discovered deep-fried soft shell crab with garlic and pepper), and now looks forward to adapting his management style to the world’s 13th biggest economy. Hail i ng f rom Sout h A f r ica , L ou i s e S e rfon t e i n is the executive chef of the Novotel Daegu City Center. Before arriving in Korea, she was working in central Vietnam. Taking it one step at a time, she is optimistic about learning the Korean language, meeting new people, discovering interesting places, and simply appreciating life. As the first executive foreign woman chef in Korea, she looks forward to upgrading and improving service and standards in the food and beverage department. In her free time, she enjoys drinking Irish and Scotch whiskey and eating Indian curry, though probably not at the same time.
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World DJ Festival May 6th – 8th The fifth annual World DJ Festival has stepped up its game this year, with a far more inspiring line-up than last year’s. A solid and well-rounded collection of DJs from around the world will be presenting festival goers with electronic dance music in all its shapes and forms, from uplifting trance and funky house to foot-stomping electro and dubstep. Notable acts include Dada Life, Freemasons, Lazy Rich, Avicii, Blatta & Inesha and Tydi. All told, over 180 acts (28 from abroad and 160 from Korea) will be strutting their stuff at this year’s event, giving attendees a plethora of options and alternatives. Check out the website for the full line-up. [Continued on page 51]
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SEOUL
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GaNGwon PROVINCE
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GYEONGGI PROVINCE
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CHUNGCHEONG PROVINCE
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GYEONGSANG PROVINCE
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Sucker Punch Movies
Directed by Zach Snyder After the success of 300 and Watchmen, I thought giving Zach Snyder free rein over his latest flick could be a good idea. I was wrong. Sucker Punch is quite possibly one of the most incoherent messes I’ve seen in a very long time. Set in a mental asylum/bordello/CGI fantasy world, the film follows the trials and tribulations of Baby Doll (Emily Browning) and a few of the other patients as they try to break free from their confinement. To escape the pain of asylum life, Baby Doll slips into an alternate reality where the inmates are prostitutes forced to dance and service clients. However, when she dances, she finds herself thrust into a fantasy land
Classics of Korean Cinema
by Pa u l M at t hews
filled with orcs, dragons and clockwork, steam-powered zombie soldiers. Sucker Punch looks fantastic and the digital artists who worked on the film should be commended, but the nonsensical story and appalling script crush any hopes of enjoyment. The action sequences hold no sense of danger or excitement, the film feels like a series of cut scenes from a video game, and there’s a slight whiff of misogyny that taints the whole thing. This is a complete disaster of a film, stylish in places, but ultimately a waste of everybody’s time. Here’s hoping that somebody gives Snyder a good talking to so that nobody is forced to watch this kind of idiocy again.
This month features the first of a new series of reviews of Korean film classics. Each month, 10’s resident film critic Paul Matthews will introduce readers to one of the essential masterpieces that have established Korea’s reputation in the movie industry.
Paul
Directed by Greg Mottola It makes me happy to see Simon Pegg and Nick Frost together onscreen again. It’s been a few years since their last outing in Hot Fuzz, but now they’re back, under the direction of Greg Mottola, to bring us a wonderfully geeky love letter to American science fiction cinema. Pegg and Frost play Graeme and Clive, two nerdy Brits, who have decided to spend their vacation checking out Comic-Con and various UFO hotspots. Their lives are turned upside down when they meet Paul (voiced by Seth Rogen), a bulbous-headed little alien. This delightfully silly road movie is made all the better by a stellar cast and some brilliant cameos. Kristen Wiig, Jason Bateman and Bill Hader all deserve mention. The CGI work on Paul is superb, but it’s the warm-hearted script that draws you in and makes this potty-mouthed, nerdy and very funny film a must-see for all science fiction fans.
Peppermint Candy 박하사탕
Directed by Lee Chang-dong Don’t be fooled by the sweet name: this stunning drama is perhaps the best film to deal with the Gwangju Massacre of 1980. In his second film, Lee Chang-dong charts the life of character Kim Young-ho (played by Sol Gyung-gu) in reverse chronological order starting with his suicide in 1999 and then back through his run as a businessman, his career as a police officer and his military service. Little by little, we learn of Young-ho’s secrets 36 | 10 Magazine May 2011
and start to understand his broken marriage with his wife, Hong-ja (Kim Yeo-jin), and his relationship with his first love, Yun Sun-im (Mun So-ri). Sol Gyung-gu is superb as the tormented Young-ho, managing to depict the character in his forties, thirties, twenties and teens. He brings raw emotion to the role and the pain he suffers is palpable. Lee Chang-dong leads us carefully backwards through Young-ho’s life; it is painful to watch, but by the end of the film we gain a deeper understanding of this flawed man and the cause of his suffering. A must-see for anyone interested in Korea’s recent history, this film sheds light on the pain of a generation. One of the best Korean films of the past fifteen years. Originally screened in 1999, Peppermint Candy has been rereleased on DVD this spring and is well-worth adding to your collection.
NATIONWIDE CALENDAR New This Month
Dates are subject to change.
May 4th Listen To Your Heart USA. Drama/Romance. Alexia Rasmussen, Kent Moran; dir. Matt Thompson. May 4th Source Code USA. Action/ Thriller/SF. Jake Gyllenhaal, Michelle Monaghan; dir. Duncan Jones. May 4th Water for Elephants USA. Drama. Robert Pattinson, Reese Witherspoon; dir. Francis Lawrence. May 5th Thunder 11 Japan. Animation. Junko Takeuchi, Hirofumi Nojima; dir. Yoshikazu Miyao. May 5th Shinchan the Movie Japan. Animation. Akiko Yajima, Miki Narahashi; dir. Akira Shigino.
May 12th Sex and Zen: Extreme Ecstasy 3D 옥보단 玉蒲團之偷情寶鑑 Hong Kong. Comedy/Erotic. Saori Hara, Tony Ho; dir. Suen Laap-Gei. May 12th Redline Japan. Animation. Takuya Kimura, Yu Aoi; dir. Takeshi Koike. May 12th Flowers Japan. Drama. Yu Aoi, Mitsuru Hirata; dir. Norihiro Koizumi.
May 5th Mars Needs Moms! USA. Animation/Adventure/SF. Seth Green, Dan Fogler; dir. Simon Wells. May 5th Certified Copy France/Italy/ Iran. Drama. Juliette Binoche, William Shimell; dir. Abbas Kiarostami. May 5th IMAX: Hubble 3D Canada. Documentary. Leonardo DiCaprio; dir. Toni Myers. May 12th Monk Beopjeong’s Chair 법정스님의 의자 Korea. Documentary. dir. Lim Sung-gu. May 12th A Chinese Ghost Story China. SF/Fantasy/Romance. Tin-Lok Koo, Yifei Liu; dir. Wai-Sun Yip.
TAKE OUT May 19th Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides USA. Action/ Adventure/Fantasy. Johnny Depp, Penelope Cruz; dir. Rob Marshall. May 26th Kung Fu Panda 2 USA. Animation/Action/Comedy. Jack Black, Angelina Jolie; dir. Jennifer Yuh.
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Television
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by S oy eo n K im b erly Yoo n
Bringing Reality Back to the Reality Show Now in its third season, We Got Married brings new couples to the altar in an effort to restore realism and inspiration to the show.
I
f you’re a true fan of Korean TV, you’ve probably watched at least one episode of We Got Married (우리 결혼했어요), a reality TV show that pairs up two Korean celebrities and has them pretend to be newlyweds. We Got Married was a big hit when it was first aired back in 2008 and then when it hosted a real couple (Kim Yong-jun and Hwang Jeong-eum) in 2009, but more recently, the show got a little dull with the repetitive format of the same couples spending their time trying to complete the mission of the day. Also, the show began to lose its realism as young stars were paired up as married couples, which narrowed the audience to the teenagers who were already fans of these idols. Because the supposedly married couples were so young, it was difficult for the audience to identify with their role in the show. Their relationships were strangely unnatural and an awkward atmosphere settled into Saturday afternoon living rooms from the moment couples exchanged their first greetings. As a former fan of the show, I missed listening to their honest feelings and thoughts
on certain events during their private interviews. It was an innovative idea to pair up two celebrities with different jobs, personalities, and ages and have them learn to work together. Unfortunately, this show, like many others, was carried along by the trend of featuring young idols and strayed from its original purpose. Recently, two idol couples (Jo Gweon and Gain, Jung Yeong-hwa and Seohyun) got a divorce (in the show storyline of course), opening up the door for new couples to join the show’s third season. This time around, the producers plan to appeal to a wider audience by featuring celebrities of different ages. The producers announced that the first new couple will be Ham Eun-jeong from girl group Tiara with Lee Jang-woo, a promising new actor from the daily soap Smile, Donghae. The next pair is an older couple, Kim Won-jun and Park So-hyun, who have been friends for 18 years. The producers are hoping to help the couple make the transition from friends to lovers. In its third season, the show hopes to make a U-turn to reach its original goal. Will the two pairs of newlyweds be able to revive this reality show by revealing their true thoughts about their on-screen marriages? Find out whether these strangers-turned-couples can really get along every Saturday at 5:10 PM on MBC. 10 Magazine May 2011 | 37
NATIONWIDE
made Freshly chips potato
Gang of Four Content Yep Roc
O K , th i s r e l e a s e di d surface onto an artistic plane overburdened with derivative dreck just over two months ago, but this in no way affects the vitality and importance of the musical dynamism contained in its 10tune aural challenge to the NWO. Gang of Four established their Marxist post-punk bona fides over thirty years ago, and even a long hiatus has not blunted their sharp, witty, and discomfiting rage against the excesses of capitalism. This time around – and demonstrating the resiliency that only those truly committed to their message can maintain – the band has brought their trademark razor-edged, funk-driven stri
Jessie J
Who You Are Lava/Universal What is happening to the world of female soul/pop/R&B singers these days? Is there one textbook on the subject that nearly everyone feels they must follow? With this release, another in the ongoing process of “derivation over imagination” that seems to be standard operating procedure nowadays in this genre, we see that even the Brits are climbing aboard
4minute dency full bore into the digital age. Right from the opening metaphorical barrage of “She Said” through to the terminal ode on closed-minded conformity (“I Can See from Far Away”), Gang of Four delivers a vital rock manifesto that should send more than a few souls heading for the barricades. Essential stuff! by M i c h a e l B e rry
the bandwagon. The only real difference between this album and others like it is the noticeable English accent that comes through on most tunes; otherwise, it’s more of the same. Again, not a bad release per se: the production is good, the musicianship certainly competent, and Jessie can sing. Ironically, perhaps, the tunes that best showcase her voice are the ones that don’t use the modern R&B textbook. “Big White Room” is quite moving vocally, and “Mama Knows Best” adds an interesting pop spark. Overall, though, this one’s basically for genre aficionados only. by M i c h a e l B e rry
Books
Analysts prepared to accept the narrative of China’s peaceful rise to the position of regional hegemon may find that Tragedy in Crimson: How the Dalai Lama Conquered the World but Lost the Battle with China causes them to question their assumptions. The author, Tim Johnson, was able to compile this indictment after six years as China Bureau Chief for a U.S. newspaper chain, and it combines interviews and observations with statistics and historical records. We learn here that the overwhelming ma38 | 10 Magazine May 2011
Heart to Heart Cube Entertainment Known for their tough love and fearless girl power, 4minute backs away from the buttkicking and tones down the tempo for their digital EP Heart to Heart. While this may not do much for their earlier image, Heart to Heart does show 4minute’s capability to handle gently executed mid-tempo pop tunes on subjects as inconsequential as chasing reluctant boys. Less heavy on the electro-synths than most contemporary girl groups, 4minute also stalls in vocal prowess, lacking the chords of powerhouses like f(x) and 2NE1, and falling somewhere near 5dolls’ lukewarm debut (reviewed last month). While the competent production of this collection of songs may not disappoint, its fundamental obsession with not rocking the boat on any issue does. This is best summed up by the grand finale, a plodding piano track that approaches with subtle grace and nostalgia but nonetheless leaves listeners longing for so by A nna O rz e l much more. by J o h n M e n s ing
jority of Chinese despise Tibetans on ethnic grounds, and how the government in Beijing fans this hatred. To the insult of having become a minority in their home capital of Lhasa is added the injury which restricts Tibetans from doing business there: enterprise is reserved for Han pioneers. A chapter is devoted to how and why a U.S. $4.1 billion railroad now spans the Tibetan plateau; it’s been built to speed in Han frontiersmen, and speed out raw materials. To cover the Tibet story, the author takes us to Dharamsala, the town in Himachal Pradesh where the exiled Dalai Lama resides; to Beijing, where high society respectability is found to play a surprising role in Tibet’s fate; to East Turkestan, where the Muslim Uighurs experience similar repression sans a charismatic leader (and despise the ethnic Chinese settlers in their midst); to California, where Chinese foreign ministry lobbyists bribe and blackmail state legislators into withdrawing an annual Tibet support decree; to New York, where the FBI was
powerless to stop Chinese cyberterrorists from wreaking havoc with the mainframes of Tibet support groups; and to streets all over the world, where a massive Chinese disinformation campaign affixed to the Olympic Torch ritual tested Tibetans’ will. In all these locales Johnson provides richly evocative descriptions of not only his interview subjects but also their surroundings. The reader is transported, as in a travel journal, and feels as if he or she’s talked to those people, seen and felt how they’ve lived and suffered. I spent months in Dharmshalla, Tibet and Xinjiang, and several years in China, and Johnson’s travelogue was remarkably vivid. Some of his descriptions rang so true I wanted to interrupt with stories of my own. Of special interest to Koreans are the portions of the book which detail China’s arm-twisting campaign to criminalize the Tibetan leader. Koreans, unless they travel abroad, won’t be able to meet His Holiness, as the Chinese foreign ministry prevents
the Dalai Lama (interviewed afresh for this book) from entering Korea. The process by which the Beijing government annexed Tibet, disparaged its culture and flooded the
region with ethnic Chinese immigrants also makes for a grim foreshadowing of Korea’s future, should the peninsula be reunited on China’s terms. 333 pages, W25,230
Tech
Next Month’s Review
Goldman Sachs, global finance, and change we can believe in all come in for a shellacking next month when we review Griftopia by Matt Taibbi. by S ta fford L u m s d e n
DSLR Meets Point-and-Shoot The Micro Four Thirds and NEX series of cameras aim to combine the functionality of DSLRs with the convenience of point-and-shoots. Digital photography has come a long way in recent years with point-and-shoot models able to capture great images that are then easily shared via Flickr. The move to digital has also seen photography taken up by hobbyists and “prosumers” in the form of more affordable and easy-to-use DSLR cameras. However, despite the better image quality and greater control over capturing images, DSLR cameras remain bulky and are best utilized in conjunction with a number of different lenses for different situations. This is over-kill for those just looking to post their pictures to Facebook. Enter the Micro Four Thirds camera system developed by Panasonic and Olympus, which combines the ease of use and compact camera bodies of point-and-shoot models with the sensors, control, and in-
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terchangeable lenses of more standard DSLRs. Oly mpus has modeled its PEN series of Micro Four Thirds cameras after its vintage PEN line from the 1960s, and the body of the camera looks suitably retro. The most recent model, the PEN E-PL2, fits snugly into a faux-leather case completing that hipster look. For around W750,000 the photographer gets a 12-megapixel camera with built-in image stabilization, 720p video recording at 30fps and a kit 14-44 mm zoom lens. Strictly speaking, the cameras in the Sony NEX series aren’t Micro Four Thirds cameras, instead using the same size sensor as their bigger DSLR cousins. But they still employ the mirrorless interchangeable type lenses of the Olympus and incorporate the
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tech nology into a smaller point-and-shoot form factor. And it is clear that the Sony is aiming at the point-and-shoot market with fewer buttons and controls and an entire user manual contained within the camera guiding photographers through their Kodak moment step by step. With a magnesium alloy body, the 14-megapixel NEX 5 is solid in the hand and looks as if it could take a knock or two. Both it and the NEX 3 can handle video recording at up to 1080i resolution in addition to taking stills. Depending on the configuration of lenses, both the NEX 3 and NEX 5 can retail for upwards of W1,000,000. Like Olympus, Sony offers support for a number of lenses and adaptors for its DSLR lenses as well. The author would like to apologize to the sales staff of the Olympus and Sony Stores in COEX for asking so many questions (in bad Korean) about their products.
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Major Foreign Banks American Express americanexpress.co.kr 02-2000-8100 Australia & New Zealand Banking Group 02-3700-3100 China Construction Bank ccbseoul.com 02-6730-1718
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10 Magazine May 2011 | 39
Geumgangsan Dark Ale and Chicken Pepper Poppers
Pot-au-feu, a traditional French beef stew
SEOUL
Ga-Hoe-Heon Food Review
W o rds and s h ot s b y J o e mcph e r s o n
Skillful service and excellent execution give this fine restaurant an edge over the competition.
T
here are times when you should treat yourself to something nice. Ga-HoeHeon, a fine dining spot from the famous Wood & Brick gourmet empire, treats you with old world classics in a modern Korean atmosphere. Looks can be deceiving when finding Ga-Hoe-Heon. That’s because, as of this writing, the largest sign on the building reads, “Wood & Brick.” Ga-Hoe-Heon consists of a main dining room, a traditional Korean hanok dining room and a wine bar. The main dining room is highceilinged and airy, with large windows adding to the sense of space. There is also a deck for under-the-stars dining. The menu is heavy on Italian and dips into classic French with a dash of Spanish. The Italian is not red sauce and sweetened garlic bread. There are some Roman oxtail dishes and some hearty beef ragouts. Pastas come entangled in
Classics Done Well
goodies like scallops, lobster and fresh asparagus. Some old-school French dishes make appearances, like pot-au-feu, a beef stew that tastes like what your grandmother used to make (if she was French, that is). Squid is stuffed with a creamy fish mousseline and blessed with ink sauce. There’s even a cameo of the classic French onion soup. Granted, more and more restaurants in Seoul already serve similar fare. When it comes to the classics, one pays attention to the execution. That’s Ga-Hoe-Heon’s strength. There is great attention to detail and technique. The salad has the right amount of dressing without getting watered down. The pot-au-feu is perfectly tender, not too stringy, with just the right amount of fat, swimming in a light, glistening stock. On the side is a butter sauce that serves as a tangy vinaigrette for the beef. The service makes you feel welcome. It’s not stuffy—a tragic infection in many Seoul fine dining establishments. The staff are quick, helpful and personable. Even when there are mistakes, they are up front and remedy them immediately. Ga-Hoe-Heon works best as a power lunch spot and a place to take the in-laws or a special date. The wine list is heavy on the French. The restaurant is between Gyeongbuk and Changdeok Palaces, near Jaedong Elementary School. By subway, go out exit 2 at Anguk Stn. (line 3) and turn left at Bukchon-gil, the first major street. It’s on your right. 10 Magazine reimburses reviewers for their meals and never notifies restaurants that they will be reviewed.
40 | 10 Magazine May 2011
Cheesecake with housemade ice cream dipped in raspberry sauce English menu Not allowed Ample vegetarian options Not completely accessible Accepted Well-executed classic fare Gets a little crowded on the weekends W12,000 - W38,000 02-747-1592 woodnbrick.com 5-2 Jae-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul Lunch: weekdays 12 – 3 pm, weekend 12 – 4 pm; dinner: 6 – 10 pm
FOODIE FINDS
Churro-ly Delicious Churros! Forget any memories of stale snacks languishing on the theater concession counter. The newly opened Coffee Chu in Hannam-dong offers a fresh and healthier take on the traditional Spanish crispy pastries: the freshly fried-up churros here are made without eggs or butter. You can order one of their traditional churros with melted chocolate for dipping or try one of the café’s “fritters,” fatter churros stuffed with lemon, vanilla, or berry-flavored filling. Early birds can go for the morning set: an Americano and churro (available 10:30 am – noon, W5,500) or scarf down a smoothie as a liquid meal. We recommend the yummy tofu smoothie (W7,000). Churros start at W2,800, and coffee at W4,500. The café is located right behind the Volkswagen dealership near Hangangjin Stn. (line 6, ex. 3). Keep an eye out for the striking shooting-star design. chu@coffeechu.co.kr 02-790-6821 Words by Dav i d Carru t h
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Our Favorite Makgeolli Joint Chin Chin is not just a makgeolli pub, it’s a movement. Proprietor and makgeolli evangelist Jang Gi-cheol sources his brew from small artisanal producers and finds ways to experiment with this rice beer, making an espresso version, champagne makgeolli, and even makgeolli ice cream. He matches this with a range of elegant Korean and Japanese pub grub, like a playfully colorful dubu kimchi, smoky Japanese stir-fried noodles and light and crispy fried shrimp. This place is popular on weekends with Korean and expat crowds. Located two blocks northeast of the park in Hongdae. 02-334-1476 by Joe McPherson
Find us on Facebook: Hollywood Grill 02-749-1659 hollywoodgrill1@hotmail.com
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10 Magazine May 2011 | 41
SEOUL DISCOVERIES
SEOUL
Blazing a Trail One is brand new and one is little-known, but both give hikers more options for their Seoul climbing excursions.
Bongwon Temple and An Mountain For expats living in the Land of the Morning Calm, temple fatigue sets in pretty fast. After a few months, most people become blasé about anything with a slate roof and a glut of Buddha figurines. Likewise, even for those who love the hiking culture here, a tenth trip to Bukhansan or a climb up one of Seoul’s countless 3rd-tier mountains can begin to seem a bit dull. Few people, however, make it up to central Seoul’s Bongwon Temple (봉원사), or the low mountain, Ansan, on whose slope it rests. A working temple and home of the Taegyo order of Korean Buddhism, the hillside site of Bongwonsa is fetching when festooned with spring blossoms and paper lanterns for Buddha’s birthday in May, and absolutely stunning during the Lotus (연꽃) Festival in July and August, when the entire grounds are filled with blooming, headhigh water plants. Similarly, though the 20-minute hike uphill from the temple to Ansan’s crest (affording a neat view of the city’s north-central reaches, including the infamous Seodaemun Prison) is merely okay by Seoul standards, the mountain’s eastern slopes hold a seriously cool surprise for the adventurous. Starting at the yaksu (“medicine water”) springs a short walk downhill from the north-south ridge trail leading up to the summit, hikers with experience and an unshrinking constitution can try the various scrambling routes that lead up the granite slabs to the peak. This might be the most fun light climbing that Seoul has to offer to those with scrambling experience, but it also carries a very real element of risk. Climbing anything exposed without a rope is seriously inadvisable, and if you’re friction-climbing the granite slab without a belay, you’re insane. Take an easier route or A lotus flower by the temple backtrack if you’re unsure. by Matthew Crompton
Getting there
Take line 3 north to ex. 4 of Dongnimmun Stn. Walk up to the road fronting the big arch and take bus 7024 to the parking lot of a large jjimjilbang. From there it’s a 3-minute walk uphill to the temple. To reach the trails, follow the path up past the temple. Words by M att h ew Crom pton
42 | 10 Magazine May 2011
SEOUL
Seoul seen from An Mountain by Matthew Crompton
Bukhansan Dulle-gil For most expats, it doesn’t take long to realize that hiking in Korea is quite different from back home. There are hordes of people, restaurants on the trail, and backbreaking inclines. To add insult to injury, ajosshis twice your age pass you with ease. Fortunately, the Korean government has begun developing a series of trails especially suited for children, the elderly, and beerbellied foreigners. One of these is the Bukhansan Dulle-gil (literally “encircling road”), which winds its way around the base of Bukhan Mountain in northern Seoul. It spans six jurisdictions in Seoul and three cities in Gyeonggi-do, for a total length of 63.2 km. The northern and most rural section, Uiryeong-gil, can only be hiked with advance reservations in an effort to keep it ecologically pristine. The trail is far different from what one normally finds in Korea. It gently rolls up and down, and is mild enough that you can maintain conversation whilst hiking it. It occasionally goes through urban areas, providing a chance to have a meal and relax. In addition, there are numerous places of interest along the way. These include several burial sites for Korean patriots from the past century, along with a large cemetery containing the graves of over a hundred protestors killed An observatory on the Bukhansan by the government. Last, Dulle-gil, by David Carruth and certainly not least, you can have extended periods without seeing or hearing another human being. For a Seoulite, this is truly remarkable. Getting there
Finding the Dulle-gil can be a bit tricky, and it really depends on where you want to start. If you’re in northeast Seoul, you can take a taxi to the Solbat Geullim Gongwon (솔밭근림공 원, Pine Tree Park) and follow the trail signs from there. More information in English along with an interactive map can be found at the link below: 10mag.com/dullegil 02-900-8086 Words by Ian Henderson
10 Magazine May 2011 | 43
Advertori a l
A Trick of the Eye
Trick Art Exhibition, March 25th – June 26th Don’t forget to bring your camera—and creativity—to this exhibit of art parodies and optical illusions. At this exhibit, you won’t find any ushers telling you to put the camera away. There also aren’t any lines on the floor to keep you away from the picture. That’s because the whole point of the Trick Art Exhibition is for you to become part of the artwork and capture the experience on your camera. As Director Kim Sungmin explains, “This exhibit offers people a chance to use their imagination and create their own artwork.” Walking through the exhibit, you’ll come across a mixture of parodies and original pieces that are just waiting for you to complete them. First are the familiar art masterpieces that have been tweaked in surprising ways. You can fake a kick to shatter the glass covering Albrecht Durer’s Self-Portrait or paint an eyebrow on Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa. In one room, explore an Amazonian jungle scene; in the next, run shrieking from dinosaurs and
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Bring this coupon with you when you visit the Trick Art Exhibition and get W2,000 off for up to four visitors.
Trick Art Exhibition, March 25th – June 26th Sindorim Technomart 6th floor, Exhibition Hall mbctrickart.com 1577-1033
whales leaping out of the wall. There are even elaborate optical illusions that require two people (and the helpful staff to hold your camera), such as the two-part chair that shrinks you into half your size. The pieces here are all examples of trick art, a new genre that uses optical illusions to fool the viewer and create the appearance of three-dimensional space through hyper-realistic two-dimensional paintings. One of the secrets here is a special transparent paint that causes the picture to look differently depending on which angle that you’re looking at it from. Placards next to the pictures (unfortunately only in Korean) give viewers an example of a funny pose, but don’t let this limit your creativity. “When you come to the exhibit, don’t just imitate what you see in the sample pictures,” Mr. Kim encourages. “Try to come up with your own original take on the artwork.” And make it a good one, because at this exhibit, the artwork is going home with you. Location 3-25 Guro 5-dong, Guro-gu. Come out Sindorim Stn. (line 2, ex. 2) and head to Technomart on your right. The exhibit is located on the 6th floor of this building. Open 10:30 am – 9 pm. The weekends are busiest. For a smaller crowd, visit on a weekday afternoon. Cost Tickets cost W12,000, but you can get a W3,000 discount if you bring a friend on weekdays between 7 – 9 pm. Contact The website is in Korean only. mbctrickart.com 1577-1033
Take Your Best Shot! 1 Hold the Camera Steady
Good advice in any circumstance, but especially here because of the transparent layer of paint. If the camera is moving when you press the shutter, you’re liable to lose the 3D effect. 2 Get Close to the Picture
Don’t stand across the room—move in close while still keeping the picture in the viewfinder. Also, look for the handy camera sticker on the floor. This will help you find the right angle for your shot. 3 Stand to the Side
If you position yourself directly in front of the picture, the flash and lights may reflect off the transparent film and create a glare. Shooting from an oblique angle can help with this. 4 BYOB (Bring Your Own Buddy)
There are some friendly staff ready to take pictures for you, but this exhibit really has to be experienced with someone else. Who else is going to laugh at your ridiculous poses?
SEOUL CALENDAR Design & Fashion Ongoing Free Market and Hope Market Saturday afternoons, stop by the playground at Hongdae for some fashionable finds. The Free Market, held on Saturday, focuses on fashion accessories, while the Hope Market on Sundays offers more in the way of arts and crafts. Located close to Hongik Univ. Stn. (line 2) and Sangsu Stn. (line 6). cafe.daum.net/artmarket, cafe.daum.net/hopemarket/ 1330 May 7th Platoon Kunsthalle Night Flea Market Usually held the first Saturday of every month, this flea market is a fantastic chance to pick up a few accessories to enhance your wardrobe. Platoon is located in Apgujeong near Hakdong Stn. (line 7, ex. 10). Confirm date on website. 8 pm – 12 am. kunsthalle.com 02-3447-1191 May 18th Asia Society: Hanbok Fashion Show Crystal Ballroom in Lotte Hotel. 6:30 pm. Members W80,000 non-members W185,000. asiasociety.org 02-759-7806
Art Ongoing Touch Me: Juergen Teller With photographs by famed fashion photographer, Juergen Teller, best known for his Marc Jacobs campaigns, but also including non-commercial shots from Cuba. Daelim Contemporary Art Museum near Gyeongbokgung Stn. (line 3, ex. 4). 10 am – 6 pm. Children W2,000, students W3,000, adults W5,000. www.daelimmuseum.org 02-720-0667 Through May 8th Han Sungpil: Dual Realities Arario Seoul near Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex. 1). Tue - Sun 10 am - 9 pm. Closed Mon. Free. ararioseoul.com 02-723-6190 Through May 10th Abstract It! The National Art Museum, Deoksugung Palace. Tue & Wed 9 am - 6 pm, Fri, Sat & Sun 9 am - 8:30 pm. Closed Mon. W4,000. moca.go.kr 02-2022-0600 Through May 16th Animal Science Seoul National Science Museum near Hyehwa Stn. (line 4, ex. 4). 9:30 am - 7:50 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W11,000, students W10,000, children W9,000. ssm.go.kr 02-747-1393 Through May 22nd Karsh Exhibition Yousuf Karsh photographed many of the celebrated personalities of his generation. This exhibition includes about 100 photos taken between 1930 - 1990, featuring Winston Churchill, Andy Warhol, Audrey Hepburn, and others. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Bus Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5) sac.or.kr 02-792-2633
May 1st - June 24th Printmaking Classes with Mike Stewart The Big Green Studio near Cheongnyangni Stn. (line 1, ex. 4). Sundays 2 pm - 5 pm. 4 wks W120,000, 12 wks W300,000. May 12th Korean Rhapsody: Guided Tour at Leeum Museum A mix of historically important art and contemporary artists’ reinterpretations of that history. Leeum Museum in Hannam-dong. 10:30 am - 12 pm. W3,000. Register online at siwapage.com.
Theater & Dance Ongoing Drawing Show Art exhibit or performance? Drawing Show is as fun to watch as it is hard to classify. Drawing Show now presents a totally new show named “Hero” at a different location. Myungbo Art Hall in Chungmuro in Seoul (Chungmuro Station, ex. 7). Weekdays 8 pm, Sat 4 & 7 pm, Sun 3 & 6 pm. Closed Mon. W40,000 - W50,000. drawingtheater.com 02-766-7848 Folk Perfomances Performances like traditional dances, gut (exorcism rites), and Korean classical music, are held every Saturday at 2 pm. National Folk Museum at Gyeongbok Palace. 3 pm. Museum admission gives free access to the performances. nfm.go.kr 2-3704-3114 Jump Two would-be thieves break into a house full of martial arts masters! First performed in 2003, this non-verbal show combines a comic story with martial arts moves and impressive visuals. Downtown near Jonggak Stn. Mon 8 pm, Tue – Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun 3 & 6 pm. W40,000 – W50,000. hijump.co.kr 02-722-3995
Court Culture in the Baroque and Rococo Periods May 3rd - August 28th
Art
How did the elite of 18th century Europe display their power? The answer can be found in the 160 pieces of 17th – 18th century European art and artifacts at this exhibition, sponsored by KBS and the Victoria and Albert Museum in England. The exhibition is organized around five themes: power and patronage, the importance of war, the role of religion, interior design, and fabulous clothes and accessories. Art from this period is not often displayed in Seoul, so this may well be your one chance to encounter the exuberance—and extravagance— of the age. Special Exhibition Gallery at the National Museum of Korea. Tue, Thu, Fri 9 am - 6 pm, Wed & Sat 9 am - 9 pm, Sun 9 am - 7 pm. museum.go.kr 02-2077-9275
Korea House Performance Head over to the Korea House for two daily performances based on traditional Korean culture. You can also sample Korean royal cuisine before the show. Chungmuro Stn. (lines 3 & 4, ex. 3). 7 – 8 pm, 8:50 – 9:50 pm. Dinner price starts at W68,000. Performance is W50,000. kangkoku.or.kr 02-2266-9101 Kukkiwon Taekwondo Demonstration Performance Every Monday and Saturday at 11 am, a popular martial arts performance will be presented at Kukkiwon, home of the World Taekwondo Academy, in Gangnam. kukkiwon.or.kr 02-567-1058 Miso Chongdong Theater presents Miso, a story of one woman’s encounter with love told through traditional dance, percussion, and music. City Hall Stn. (lines 1, 2), 4 & 8 pm. Closed Mon. W30,000 – W50,000. miso.mct.or.kr 02-751-1500
‘Where you’re more than just a guest’
WELCOME HOME TO FRASER PLACE CENTRAL, SEOUL
Through May 29th “Experience the Five Senses” Exhibition If you think that art is boring and hard to understand, give it another try at this exhibit. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 11 am - 8 pm. Adults W12,000, children W10,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Through September 11th Ethnic Earthenware from the Asian Heart Explore what it means to be Asian through these earthen sculptures. National Museum of Korea near Ichon Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Tue, Wed, Fri 9 am – 6 pm. Wed, Sat 9 am – 8 pm. Sun 9 am – 7 pm. museum.go.kr 02-2077-9000
e di t or’ s pick
Experience the wealth of opportunities, wondrous sights and cultural sounds that Seoul has to offer, while enjoying the luxury and comforts of a Gold Standard serviced residence and knowing that every need is well taken care of. Fraser Place Central Seoul. The retreat within a city, your home away from home.
Nanta This kitchen percussion extravaganza is the non-verbal stage show that nearly everyone sees at least once. Two Seoul locations and performances almost daily. Refer to website for more details. W50,000 – W60,000. nanta.co.kr 02-739-8288
FRASER PLACE CENTRAL - SEOUL #202, UIJURO 1-GA, JUNG-GU, SEOUL, KOREA 100-130 Reservations: +82-2-2220-8000,8333 Website: www.fraserplace.co.kr
10 Magazine May 2011 | 45
SEOUL CALENDAR e di t or’ s pick
SEOUL
Ink Bomb Tattoo Convention May 20th – 21st
Design & Fashion
If you’ve ever wanted to decorate your body or are just curious about how other people do it, the Ink Bomb Tattoo Convention will make a fascinating place to spend an afternoon. Tattoo artists from the USA, Japan, Spain, and Korea will set up shop at Platoon Kunsthalle in Gangnam for Korea’s largest tattoo event. With world-famous artists manning the 40 booths at the convention, there’s no better time to get that tattoo you’ve been thinking about. In addition to the body art, you can also encounter other expressions of youth counterculture such as custom choppers, live painting, urban culture brands, skateboards, and live music by Kingston Rudieska and The Rocktigers. One-day pass W30,000, two-day pass W50,000. Buy in advance to save W5,000. 1 – 10 pm. inkbomb.co.kr, sunrattattoo@gmail.com Pan An exciting combination of Korean folk songs and percussion of all kinds. Gwanghwamun Art Hall. Wed - Fri 8 pm. Weekends and holidays at 2 pm. Closed Mon and Tue. 90 min. W30,000 - W50,000. ghmarthall.co.kr 02-722-3416
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46 | 10 Magazine May 2011
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Seoul Nori Madang: Traditional Performance Korean dancers and singers present you with all the vivid colors and exotic sounds of a traditional performance. At Sokchon Lake Park near Jamsil Stn. (line 2, ex. 3). Sun 3 pm. Free. 02-414-1985 Through May 29th Cirque du Soleil: Varekai The hugely successful international circus troupe Cirque du Soleil returns to Korea for the first time since the performance of Allegria three years ago. The show is based upon the Greek myth of Icarus. Varekai reinterprets the myth through Cirque du Soleil’s trademark dramatic mix of circus martial arts and street entertainment. Big Top in the Jamsil Sports Complex Square. Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun 2 & 6 pm. Closed Mon. W60,000 - W220,000. cirquedusoleil.co.kr 02-541-6235 April 26th - May 22nd Bolshoi Ice Show Some of Russia’s finest skaters perform at the Mokdong Ice Rink. 120 min. W55,000 - W85,000. 24 months and older. ticket.interpark.com 02-2644-1313 April 27th - May 22nd Midsummer: The Play The musical play by David Greig and Gordon McIntyre about a drunken encounter and what ensues Korean. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). Tue - Sat 4 & 7 pm, Sun 3 & 6 pm. Closed Mon. W50,000. sac.or.kr 1588-5212
April 29th - May 25th Turandot: The Musical Puccini’s famous opera is refashioned as a musical. Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 4 pm. Dark Mondays. W30,000 W50,000. sejongpac.or.kr 02-399-1772 April 30th - May 8th Coppelia: The Ballet Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). April 30th 5:30 pm, May 1st, 5th & 7th 2 & 7:30 pm, 3rd, 4th & 6th 7:30 pm, 8th 2 pm. W10,000 - W40,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Through May 15th The 32nd Seoul Theater Festival Arko Arts Theater and Daehangno Arts Theater near Hyehwa Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Check website for schedule (Kor.). W10,000, package sales available. stf.or.kr 02-765-7500 Menopause: The Musical Doosan Art Center. Jongno 5-ga Stn. (line 1, ex. 1). Tue - Thur 8 pm, Fri 4 & 8 pm, May 8th 2 & 6 pm, 10th 3 & 7 pm. Closed Mon. W40,000 - W80,000. doosanartcenter.com 02-708-5001 May 5th - 8th Dialoges des Carmelites: The Opera Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). Thurs - Sat 7:30 pm, Sun 5 pm. W10,000 - W150,000. sac.or.kr 02-586-5282 May 13th Arirang Storytelling There will be different Korean stories on the 2nd Friday of every month until August. This month’s story is about Korean mothers. You must reserve your seat a week before. Haechi Hall in the
Seoul Center for Culture & Tourism. 7:30 - 9 pm. W25,000. arirangstorytelling@ live.co.kr 070-8650-2144 May 13th - 15th Seoul International Improv Festival Check out the first annual Seoul Improv Festival at Spazio Luce Theater in Itaewon, featuring Seoul City Improv, Beijing Improv, Improv Boston, Korean Seoul City Improv, and more! Near Itaewon Stn. (line 6, ex. 2). seoulcityimprov.com
May 14th - June 12th Hedwig: The Musical With crude animation and mind-blowing punk rock, Hedwig is still recording sold-out shows in over 80 cities around the world. KT & G Sangsang Art Hall near Samsung Stn. (line 2, ex. 2). Tue - Thu 8 pm, Sat 3, 6 & 9 pm, Sun 3 & 6 pm. Dark Mon. W50,000 - W65,000. sangsangarthall.com 1544-1555 May 17th - June 19th Macbeth: One Man Show The play reflects how modern society views Macbeth. English subtitles available. Daehangno Arts Theater near Hyehwa Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Tue - Fri 8 pm, Weekends 4 pm. Dark Mon. W15,000 - W20,000. dat.or.kr 02-3668-0029 May 18th - 29th 30th International Modern Dance Festival: MoDaFe International and Korean dancers come together to celebrate modern dance. Arko Arts Theater and Daehangno Arts Theater. W15,000 - W30,000. modafe.org 02-763-5351 May 19th - 22nd L’Elisir d’amore: The Opera Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). Thurs - Sat 7:30 pm, Sun 5 pm. W10,000 - W150,000. sac.or.kr 02-586-5282 May 27th - 29th La Traviata: The Opera Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). Fri 8 pm, Sat 3 & 8 pm, Sat 4 pm. W30,000 - W300,000. sac.or.kr 02-586-5282 May 28th - June 11th You Are Not Alone: Cabaret Review Presented by the Seoul Players, this is a “cabaret review” show featuring numbers from many different Broadway musicals, all around the theme of community. Proceeds go to Habitat for Humanity, the House of Sharing, and Japan disaster relief. Saturday nights at Club After Mainstage in Itaewon. seoulplayers.com info@seoulplayers.com
Concerts May 3rd 2011 Anne-Sophie Mutter in Recital Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W50,000 W180,000. sac.or.kr 02-418-4301 May 5th Avril Lavigne It doesn’t have to be so complicated: ride your skateboard over to this concert. AX-Korea near Gwangnaru Stn. (line 5, ex. 2). 7 pm. W99,000. ax-korea.com 02-457-5114
May 6th The Willing Prisoners This 3-piece NYbased indie group have been compared to The Strokes. Club FF in Hongdae. facebook.com/thewillingprisoners, jameshbisbee@gmail.com May 6th - 7th Sumi Jo and the Academy of Ancient Music Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W50,000 - W250,000. sac.or.kr 1577-5266 May 8th Mr. Big Live in Seoul Sing along with this quartet with hits such as “To Be With You” and “Green-Tinted Sixties Mind” at Ax-Korea. 6 pm. W110,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-3141-3488
SEOUL
May 14th Carl Orff‘s Carmina Burana Meets B-Boys Carmina Burana is a combination that brought fame to German composer Carl Orff, who selected and arranged 25 poems from 200 lyrics of the wandering monk and poetry collection of the same name. At this performance, the choir will perform with the B-Boy Group Gambler Crew. Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). 6 pm. W20,000 - W70,000. sejongpac.or.kr 1544-1555
Children’s Day Concert With Ensemble HOLZ. Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). 3 pm. W20,000. sejongpac.or.kr 02-581-5404
Boris Berezovsky Concerto Concert Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 2 pm. W70,000 W110,000. sac.or.kr 02-541-2512 May 9th - 12th Seoul Jazz Festival 2011 Join the superstars and divas of the jazz scene at the Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun. Mon 8 pm, Tue 6 pm, Wed 8 pm, Thu 8 pm. W55,000 - W165,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-563-0595 May 10th Herbie Hancock & The Imagine Project Band Live Herbie Hancock, a pioneer in the music industry and renowned jazz musician, graces Korea with his presence at Kyung Hee University (Peace Center). 7 pm. W66,000 - W198,000 ticket.interpark.com 02-3143-5155 May 10th - 22nd Seoul Spring Festival of Chamber Music Deoksugung, Sejong Chamber Hall, Concert Hall in Seoul Arts Center, Floating Island Media Art Gallery, Hoam Art Hall. Refer to website for price and schedule. seoulspring.org 02-712-4879 May 11th Paul Potts & Kevin Kern Kyunghee University (Peace Center). 4 pm. W33,000 - W165,000. ticket.interpark.com 1644-3031 May 12th The Great 3B Series - Brahms 2011 Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W20,000 W40,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Les Petits Chanteurs de Saint-Marc Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W55,000 W88,000. sac.or.kr 02-597-9870 May 14th Round Robin Concert In this unique concert, bands set up around the edge of the room and take turns playing one song each as the crowd in the middle of the room listens. Experience the best of several genres of Korean music. Freebird in Hongdae. W15,000 in advance, W20,000 at the door. supercolorsuper.com Sara Bareilles Live in Seoul Hear Sara Bareilles’ angelic voice at Hongdae’s V-Hall. 7 pm. club.cyworld. com/v-hall W88,000. 02-332-3277 May 15th Mischa Maisky and Family in Concert Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W50,000 W160,000. sac.or.kr 02-599-5743 University Singers: University of Alabama Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 2 pm. W40,000 - W80,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300
10 Magazine May 2011 | 47
SEOUL CALENDAR May 15th Barbie at the Symphony Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). 2 & 6 pm. W30,000 - W80,000. sejongpac.or.kr 1577-5266 May 15th - 30th Seoul International Music Festival 2011 Concerts held at Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5) & Kumho Art Hall near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 7). May 15th, 22nd, 25th, 27th, 30th 8 pm, 29th 3 & 8 pm. W80,000 W120,000. esimf.com 02-585-0136 May 16th - 18th Ennio Morricone 50th Anniversary Live Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). 8 pm. W40,000 W220,000. sejongpac.or.kr 1544-1887
SEOUL
May 18th Pianist Lucas Geniusas Concert Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W80,000 W150,000. sac.or.kr 02-6377-1250 May 19th Seoul Philharmonic Orchestra: Masterpiece Series 2 Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W10,000 - W50,000. sac.or.kr 1588-1210 May 21st HBC Music Festival The HBC Festival takes place in Haebangchon near Itaewon. This seasonal festival is celebrated in May and October. Musicians gather at local pubs to cherish music, life and art. Near Noksapyeong Stn. (line 6, ex. 2) hbcfest.com May 22nd The Drums V-Hall near Hongik Univ. Stn. (line 2, ex. 9). 6 pm. W50,000. club.cyworld.com/v-hall 02-563-0595 May 25th Maroon 5 Gymnastics Stadium at Olympic Park near Olympic Park Stn. (line 5, ex. 3). 8 pm. W77,000 - W121,000. kspo.or.kr 02-501-7888 May 27th Seoul Philharmonic Orchestra: Chamber Music Series 2 Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). 7:30 pm. W10,000 - W30,000. sejongpac.or.kr 1588-1210 May 28th Seoul Youth Orchestra Bruckner’s Symphony No. 7. Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). 5 pm. W5,000 - W30,000. sejongpac.or.kr 02-399-1792 May 31st - June 1st Prague Radio Symphony Orchestra Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). 8 pm. W50,000 - W200,000. sejongpac.or.kr 02-3463-2466 June 2nd
Film Through May 8th Three Faces of B Movies: Richard Fleischer, Roger Corman, and Terence Fisher Head to Cinematheque Seoul for Soylent Green, Dracula, and more. Adults W6,000, teens W5,000. cinematheque.seoul.kr 02-741-9782 Through May 21st Carlos Amorales: Silent Films The Songeun Art Space in Cheongdam-dong is hosting an exhibition of Mexican filmmaker Carlos Amorales’ silent films as well as some of his sketches. Sponsored by the Embassy of Mexico, this event is entirely free. Take a bus from Apgujeong Stn. (line 3, ex. 2). 11 am - 7 pm. Closed Sun. songeunartspace.org 02-3448-0100
Family & Community Ongoing Dialogue in the Dark Experience the life of the visually impaired as you take a tour through darkness with your blind guide. Vertigo Tower in Sinchon. Weekdays 12 – 8:30 pm, weekends 10 am – 7 pm. Closed Mon. W20,000 - W30,000. dialogueinthedark.co.kr 02-313-9977 May 4th - 8th The Adventures of Alvin Sputnik: Deep Sea Explorer The Adventures of Alvin Sputnik: Deep Sea Explorer is a multi award-winning one-man micro-epic puppet show that melds technology and multimedia into a touching story of enduring love and the end of the world. LIG Art Hall near Gangnam Stn. (line 2, ex. 8). Weekdays 4 & 8 pm, weekends 3 & 6 pm. W20,000. ligarthall.com 02-6900-3906 Saltbush This exquisite interactive journey through the culture and landscape of Aboriginal Australia includes live dance, music, song and stories. LIG Art Hall near Gangnam Stn. (line 2, ex. 8). Weekdays 11 am & 2 pm, Weekends 3 & 5 pm. W20,000 W30,000. ligarthall.com 02-6900-3906 May 6th - 10th Lotus Lantern Festival Be sure not to miss the yearly parade that makes its way from Dongdaemun to Jogye Temple (5/7: 7 - 9:30 pm). You can also see gorgeously decorated lotus lanterns on display at Bongeunsa Temple near Samseong Stn, (line 2, ex. 6). llf.or.kr 02-2011-1744 May 7th - 8th Seoul Friendship Fair This fair will feature special cultural events from many different countries, including traditional performances, a world food court, folk art, royal outfits from abroad, and more. Seoul Plaza & Cheonggyecheon Square near City Hall Stn. (line 1, ex. 5 & 6), Mugyodong-gil near Euljiro 1-ga Stn. (line 2, ex. 1 & 8). 12 - 7 pm. seoulfriendshipfair.org 02-542-5948 May 28th - June 6th Korean Queer Culture Festival A parade, parties, movie screenings, and exhibit give Korean’s rainbow community a chance for creative expression. More details soon. kqcf.org 0505-303-1998
Keith Jarrett: An Evening of Solo Piano Improvisations Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). 8 pm. W50,000 - W180,000. sejongpac.or.kr 1544-1887 June 9th Ben Folds Piano rocker Ben Folds (formerly of Ben Folds Five) makes his first appearance in Korea. AX-Korea near Gwangnaru Stn. (line 5, ex. 2). 8 pm. W99,000. ax-korea.com 02-563-0595
48 | 10 Magazine May 2011
Education & Conferences May 5th - 8th Anti-Aging Expo 2011 A Hall at COEX at Samseong Stn. (line 2, ex. 5 & 6). 10 am - 6 pm. W3,000. antiagingexpo.co.kr 02-780-0697 May 7th - 8th 2011 Information Fair About 40 expatfriendly organizations will be present at
e di t or’ s pick
May 5th – 10th
SEOUL
Hi Seoul Festival
Family & Community
On May 5th at 1 pm, your quiet stroll through the Han River park on Yeouido is interrupted by a crowd of people watching a model lion tamer and a lion, both dangling from strings. It’s the wooden circus, performed by the Czech marionette troupe Karromato, part of this year’s Hi Seoul Festival. Like last year, the 2011 festival will focus on nonverbal performances. Though budget cuts this year have forced festival organizers to reduce the length from 10 days to 5, they’ve still managed to book more than 41 troupes from 11 countries including popular homegrown Korean shows such as Nanta. The street performances are held in Hangang Park in Yeouido, Seoul Square, and the Cheonggyecheon, among others. hiseoulfest.org 02-3290-7000 the 2011 Information Fair on the sidewalk starting from the Seoul Finance Center to Cheonggyechon, covering public, medical, financial, communications and travel. City Hall Stn. (line 1 & 2, ex. 4), Gwangwhamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 5). 1 - 7 pm. global.seoul.go.kr 02-2075-4112 May 11th - 14th World IT Show A, D, C Hall in COEX at Samseong Stn. (line 2, ex. 5 & 6). 10 am - 5 pm. W5,000. On May 11th - 13th entrance limited to 18 years or older. worlditshow.co.kr 02-6000-0114
Sport & Fitness K-League Football May 15th Seoul vs Gyeongnam at 3 pm May 21st Seoul vs Daegu at 8 pm Both at Seoul World Cup Stadium 2011 Baseball Doosan Bears at Jamsil Stadium 6th vs Lotte Giants 6:30 pm 7th - 8th vs Lotte Giants 5 pm 13th vs SK Wyverns 6:30 pm 14th - 15th vs SK Wyverns 5 pm 17th - 19th vs Hanwha Eagles 6:30 pm 24th - 26th vs LG Twins 6:30 pm 27th vs Hanwha Eagles 6:30 pm 28th - 29th vs Hanwha Eagles 5 pm LG Twins at Jamsil Stadium 1st vs Nexen Heroes 5 pm 3rd - 5th Doosan Bears 6:30 pm 10th - 12th Hanwha Eagles 5 pm 20th Lotte Giants 6:30 pm 21st - 22nd Lotte Giants 5 pm 31st KIA Tigers 6:30 pm Nexen Heroes at Mokdong Stadium 3rd - 4th vs KIA Tigers 6:30 pm 5th vs KIA Tigers 2 pm
13th vs LG Twins 6:30 pm 14th - 15th vs LG Twins 5 pm 24th - 26th vs KIA Tigers 6:30 pm 27th vs LG Twins 6:30 pm 28th - 29th LG Twins 5 pm May 21st Whitewater River Rafting Head to Naerincheon Stream in Inje-gun, Gangwon Province, for some whitewater fun. Meet in front of the Hyatt Hotel Grand Ballroom. Adults W50,000. 7:30 am - 6 pm. siwapage.com, ursulat@mail.ru May 28th Battle Royal: The 1st Paintball Tournament Sponsored by Korea Safari. Gangchon Survival Games Field. 8 am - 5 pm. W49,000. koreansafari.com 010-5175-8210 June 6th Han River Seoul Marathon Full, half, 10 km, 5 km. 8:40 am. W40,000. Register by June 1st. hangangseoul.co.kr 1600-7331
Dogok-dong 3rd Maple Tree House Now open in DOGOK-DONG
Dine & Drink Ongoing Homemade Italian Dinners Enjoy delicious Italian cuisine in a relaxing environment with Club Italia Seoul. Located at the Franciscan Foreign Kindergarten (franciscanfk.com) next to the Italian Embassy between Hannam Stn. (line 6) and Hangangjin Stn. (line 3). RSVP required. Each Sunday at 1 pm. W15,000. Search for “Club Italia Seoul” on Facebook. clubitalia.or.kr clubitaliaseul@gmail.com Korean Cooking Classes and Market Tour Learn authentic Korean cuisine in English from a Korean chef. Classes held at the O’ngo Cooking Studio near Insadong
SK Leader’s View Maebong Stn. exit.3
464 Dogok-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Tel: 574-4468, 11:30 am- 10:30 pm
Itaewon
Samcheong-dong
Mougle KFC
Hamilton Hotel
Itaewon Stn. exit.1
116-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul 11:30 am – 10:30 pm, Tel: 02-790-7977
Myungseong Market
Samcheong-dong Street
Bar 1010
31-1 Samcheong-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Tel: 02-730-7461, 11:30 am – 10:30 pm (2:30 – 5:30 pm Mon–Fri Break time) 10 Magazine May 2011 | 49
SEOUL CALENDAR (Nakwon Sangga). Classes include bulgogi, kimchi, and more. Mon – Fri. 10 am, 2 pm. ongofood.com 02-3446-1607
Yangban (old aristocracy). Members W199,000, non-members W229,000. Sign up at raskb.com by Wednesday, May 18th.
Korean Night Dining Tour Take a crash course on Korea’s late-night food and drinking culture. Start at Gwangjang Market and continue to historic Jongno 3-ga for Korean BBQ and makgeolli (rice wine). W88,000 per person (minimum of 3). 4 - 8 pm. ongofood.com 02-3446-1607
May 28th Gangneung City and Kyungpodae Beach Tour A visit to the historic city of Gangneung, gateway to Korea’s east coast. raskb.com
May 14th Homebrew Korea Beer Festival: Brew Your Hops Off! Homebrewers are invited to come and submit a beer for the brewing contest–everyone else can come to taste the results. Oktoberfest in Gangnam near Gangnam Stn. (line 2, ex. 5 & 6). 1 pm - 5 pm. In advance W30,000, at the door W35,000. homebrewkorea.com
SEOUL
May 21st Seoul International Wines & Spirits Expo C Hall in COEX at Samseong Stn. (line 2, ex 5 & 6). 10 am - 6 pm. W12,000 - W20,000 (wine glass included). Register by May 13th. swsexpo.com 02-761-2512 June 2nd - 5th Tea World Festival 2011 Hall B1 & 2 in COEX at Samseong Stn. (line 2, ex 5 & 6). 10 am - 6 pm. W3,000. teanews.com 02-6000-8000
Travel Ongoing Palace Tours Youth volunteers are your guides at these free English tours at Deoksugung Palace, taking place every 2nd and 4th Saturday at 10 am & 2:30 pm.Admission to the palace is W1,000. ici@icworld.or.kr 02-3210-3266 May 6th Hantaek Botanical Garden tour Freedom Center lower parking lot next to Seoul Club. 8:30 am - 3 pm. W35,000. Register online at siwapage.com May 7th - 8th A Journey to Mt. Jirisan National Park and Namwon A weekend trip to Korea’s three most-sacred mountains. Depart at 8 am in front of Yongsan Post Office. Members W199,000, nonmembers W229,000. Sign up at raskb. com by Wednesday, May 4th. May 10th Buddha’s Birthday Tour in Seoul Visit different temples around Seoul to observe the colorful ceremonies and festivities that mark this occasion. Members W33,000, non-members W39,600. Sign up at raskb.com by Friday, May 6th. May 14th - 15th Lake Fishing & Camping Gosam Lake in Anseong. Depart at 8:30 am in front of Hamilton Hotel. W75,000. koreansafari. com 019-542-2955 May 14th - 15th Land of Exile Tour On this tour you will not only enjoy the beautiful scenery of South Jeolla Province but also learn about some of the historical figures who lived here in exile. Members W198,000, non-members W228,000. Sign up at raskb.com by Wednesday, May 11th. May 15th Bukchon Hanok Village Walking Tour Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex. 3). 9:30 am - 1 pm. Members W20,000, non-members W24,000. Sign up at raskb.com by Wedensday, May 11th. May 21st - 22nd Andong Tour: Buseok-Sa, DosanSeowon and Hahoe Village This tour will take you to the most famous sites in and around Andong, the main city of the
50 | 10 Magazine May 2011
May 28th - 29th Tea Making Tour to Mt. Jirisan Korea’s green tea is only dried in April and May, while the fresh shoots are full of flavor. raskb.com June 4th - 6th Hong-Do and Huksan-Do Islands Tour Visit Huksan-do and Hong-do, which are famous for the pink rock formations along the coast. W50,000 deposit, approx. W328,000 altogether. raskb.com
Nightlife Parties at Club Answer 5/6 Diamond Party. 5/7 Housegraphy. 5/13 Crash Party. 5/14 Ibiza Korea. 5/20 AIX Party. 5/21 Maxim Party by Escape Korea. 5/28 Joe Kim Party. Cheongdam-dong. clubanswer.co.kr 02-514-4311 Parties at Club Mansion 5/6 DJ Hyde Party. 5/7 KROME. 5/13 Rock Tha House Feat. Norajwo. 5/14 Eye Candy w/ Bite Girl. 5/20 Take My Hands vol.14. 5/28 Hunters. Hongdae. 02-3143-4037 mansionseoul@gmail.com Parties at Club Volume 5/21: Stephane Pompougnac from Hotel Costes, new album release party. Club Volume near Itaewon & Noksapyeong Stn. clubvolume.com 02-794-0257 Quiz Night at Craftworks Every Wednesday. Great prizes including W50,000 bar tab for 1st place. craftworkstaphouse.com 02-794-2537 Rhyme Time: Spoken Word and Poetry Every 2nd and 4th Thursday, head to Tony’s Aussie Bar in Itaewon for a literary evening. 8 pm. tonysitaewon. com 02-790-0793 Stand Up Seoul Comedy Night Korea’s finest English language comedians deliver monologues and rants about expat life and other topics. New acts are welcome! The show starts at 9 pm on every first Thursday of each month at the Rocky Mountain Tavern in Itaewon. Facebook: Stand Up Seoul, james.hershberger@gmail.com Tony’s Stand-Up Comedy Tony’s Aussie Bar in Itaewon hosts a night of stand-up comedy every Wednesday. Sign up at 8 pm and see the show at 9 pm. tonysitaewon.com May 4th School Uniform Party Club Naked in Hongdae. 10 pm - 5 am. W10,000. 010-3136-1197 May 5th First Thursday Afterwork Party This monthly party for young professionals is held in a number of ritzy venues north and south of the river. afterworkseoul.com 010-9337-0275 May 13th Gatecrasher Presents Paul Van Dyk With support by DJ Vesper MJ at the Sheraton Walkerhill Theater. W66,000. 11 pm - 6 am. 02ent.com 070-4038-7318 May 21st Stephane Pompougnac from Hotel Costes A release party for his new album. Club Volume near Itaewon & Noksapyeong Stn. clubvolume.com 02-794-0257
What happens when... SEOUL
World DJ Festival May 6th – 8th
Nightlife
wine importer a direct premium meets up with a...
[Continued from p.35] Unlike previous years, the festival has been relocated to Yangpyeong, a town roughly an hour southeast of Seoul. The festival will be bigger, better and louder than previous years, with this year’s theme being “dancing under the shining stars,” an obvious reference to the new venue’s distance from the light pollution, noise restrictions and capacity boundaries of Seoul’s outdoor venues. The festival will be held at Gangsang Athletic Park in Yangpyeong. The area is accessible via subway, train, and shuttle bus. Fri – Sat W55,000, Sat – Sun W65,000, entire festival W120,000. worlddjfest.com Words by Se bast i e n Rousset
professional German baker who introduces Them to a...
rter meat impo .. top quality brings in a. who then
Gourmet natura l cheese distributo r...
?
HSM's three basic promises to our valuable customers: 1) always something new 2) always something free 3) always something special
Deadmau5 May 9th
Nightlife
In the realm of electronic dance music, Joel Zimmerman (aka Deadmau5, pronounced “dead mouse”) is the closest thing there is to a superstar. With a genuinely nerdy technical genius and visionary zeal, Zimmerman’s sets are close to live performances, as he mostly plays his own material, assembles tracks on the fly and uses what can only be described as a technological orgy of software. Pointing to the bass-heavy analogue grooves that integrate elements of minimal, trance and electro, many involved in the electronic dance music scene agree that Deadmau5’s productions are some of the most original dance tracks seen in a long time. See the man who won Best Artist, Best American DJ and Best Electro Track at the 2010 International Dance Music Awards at the Sheraton Grand Walkerhill Hotel. 11 pm – 4:30 am. W99,000. Contact VU Entertainment at 02-323-2838 or info@vuent.co.kr. Words by Se bast i e n Rousset
Exit #1
Hangangjin Station
High Street Market (2nd floor)
HIGH STREET MARKET
IP Boutique Hotel Japan Plaza Buy the Way Exit #2 Cheil Building 제일기획
PARK HERE
Hannam-dong Community Center Parking Lot
Itaewon Station Subway: Line 2 to Itaewon Station exit #2 Go straight and High Street Market is on your left Line 6 Hangangjin Station exit #1 Go straight and High Street Market will be on your right
10 Magazine May 2011 | 51
SEOUL DIRECTORY
Seoul Foreigner Assistance
Automobiles
SEOUL
ATEK (Association for Teachers of English in Korea) atek.or.kr Seoul Dasan (City Info) 02-120 Seoul Global Center global.seoul.go.kr 02-1688-0120 Yeoksam English 02-3453-9038 Yeonnam Chinese 02-6406-8151 Seorae French 02-570-6009 Ichon Japanese 02-2199-8882 Itaewon/Hannam English 02-2199-8883~5 Accessories
Astoria 02-2268-7111 COEX InterContinental 02-3452-2500 Courtyard 02-2638-3000 Grand InterContinental 02-555-5656 JW Marriott 02-6282-6262 Millenium Hilton 02-753-7788 Renaissance 02-555-0501 Ritz-Carlton 02-3451-8000 Hostels Guest House Baenang Yongsan ghbaenang.com 010-9071-4641 Guesthouse Korea Jongno guesthouseinkorea.com 02-3674-2205 Bebop Guesthouse Hongdae bebop-guesthouse.com, 070-8261-4835 Kim’s Guesthouse Hongdae kimsguesthouse.com 02-337-9894 Namu Guesthouse Hongdae namugh.co.kr 070-8291-4878 Olympic Parktel Jamsil parktel.co.kr/english 02-410-2114 Seoul Backpackers Myeongdong seoulbackpackers.com 02-3672-1972 Classes
On hats & luggage tags
Only takes 1 minute
Noksapyeong Itaewon McDonald’s Market
Burger King Hannam-dong International Arcade
02-796-9052 Ambrosia Customized Embroidery You write it, he’ll sew it! It only takes a minute to have your name or message embroidered on hats, luggage tags, backpacks, T-shirts, ties and jackets. 56-9, Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. mrnameonhat.co.kr 02-796-9052 Travel Agencies
Cosmo.jin Tour cosmojin.com 02-318-0345 Fides Travel fidestravel.co.kr 02-755-5470 JNC Travel Itaewon Itching to travel? This travel agent offers worldwide discount air tickets, hotels, professional counseling, and package goods. Mon - Fri 10 am - 7 pm, Sat 10 am - 5 pm, Sun 1 - 5 pm. 02-796-9633 Unique Travel Itaewon uniquetravel.co.kr 02-792-0606 Xanadu Travel xanadu.co.kr 02-795-7771
NEW CARS FOR LEASE Gyung Bok Agency
010-3524-8260 Gyung Bok Agency Take the wheel of a premium Hyundai with the Gyung Bok Agency’s lease program. 1-year, 2-year, and 3-year leases available. 921-1 Daechi-Dong, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul. Contact Chief Sales Manager Hank Jo at 010-3524-8260. Insurance
52 | 10 Magazine May 2011
Museums
Gahoe Museum gahoemuseum.org 02-741-0466 World Jewelry Museum wjmuseum.com 02-730-1610 Kimchi Field Museum kimchimuseum.co.kr 02-6002-6456 Kyung-in Museum of Fine Art Kyunginart.co.kr 02-733-4448 Leeum Samsung Museum of Art leeum.org 02-2014-6901 Museum of Korean Traditional Music ncktpa.go.kr 02-580-3130 National Folk Museum nfm.go.kr 02-3704-3114 National Museum of Korea museum.go.kr 02-2077-9000 National Palace Museum of Korea gogung.go.kr 02-3701-7500 Seoul Art Center sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Seoul Museum of Art seoulmoa.seoul.go.kr 02-120 Seoul National Science Museum ssm.go.kr 02-3668-2200 War Memorial warmemo.or.kr 02-709-3139 Religious
Korean Tours
Adventure Korea adventurekorea.com 018-242-5536 Korean Safari koreansafari.com 019-542-2955 Korean Cooking Classes with Ms. Chang Want to do more than sightseeing? How about taking a Korean cooking class? This is your chance to experience the everyday meals of a Korean family. koreancookingclasses. blogspot.com 010-7193-2068 O’ngo Culinary Tours Korean food tours and cooking classes in Seoul. Tours and classes are taught by Korean food experts. Experience the culture through the cuisine. ongofood.com 010-6661-7769 Royal Asiatic Society Korea Branch raskb.com 02-763-9483 USO DMZ Tours affiliates.uso.org/korea 02-795-3028 WOW Corea Tour wowcoreatour.com 02-739-3337
Access Consciousness What if the life you imagined was actually possible? Regular classes held in Seoul & around Korea. Contact Nate at 010-6285-6283 or nhkent@gmail.com
jaicenter.co.kr 02-3443-9642 Pottery Classes at Yido Academy Gahoe-dong in Seoul. Fri 10 - 12 am. yidostyle@hanmail.net 02-744-0756 Salsa Lessons in English Top Bar near Apgujeong St. Call Crys at 010-4755-4728 Sanirang Alpine Networks This climbing service offers lessons, clinics, and guided tours. sanirang.net/about. html, info@sanirang.net Suseonjae Meditation and Deep Breathing Classes jihye@suseonjae.org 019-201-5958 Wise-Up Workouts Lose weight and get lean in less than 30 days guaranteed? Author and creator of the No. 1 gym-free program is now in Korea. 1 to 1 service. Grab the book “Wise-Up Workouts” at www. wiseupworkouts.com 010-4998-8722
Samsung Fire and Marine Insurance Automobile and motorcycle insurance provided by one of Korea’s most reliable conglomerates. Also available; Life/ Annuities, Business/Fire, Supplemental Medical, Travel Insurance. 010-3232-0625 Radio
TBS eFM FM 101.3 American Forces Network AM 1530 / FM 102.7 Transportation
International Taxi (English Speaking) 1644-2255 Jumbo Taxi Service (more expensive) 02-888-2000 Interactive Subway Map smrt.co.kr Hotels/Accommodations
KoreaHotel.com Korea’s version of Expedia. koreahotel.com 4-5 Star Hotels
Bikram Yoga Gangnam Feel the 105°F heat of the original Bikram Yoga with 90-minute classes taught by passionate instructors. Behind the Kyobo Tower building, Sinnonhyeon Stn. (line 9, ex. 7). bikramyogakorea. co.kr 02-532-2101 Bellydance Lessons with Eshe Morning, afternoon, and evening classes, plus Sunday classes at the Well Being Studio. navah@live.com Fine Art Class Myeongdong 7 -1 pm Fridays. cafe.daum.net/artd 02-771-2026 Ballet Stretching Itaewon Dance your days away with a diverse selection of classes available: child ballet, yoga, tae bo, yoga for pregnant women, pilates, diet dance, and even salsa classes. Private training available. Mon–Fri open 9 am–10 pm. 124-7 Itaewon-dong, yongsan-gu. 010-9309-9021 International Guides of Korea Courses in ice climbing, rock climbing and more. iguidekorea.com Jai Center for Yoga and Health
Buddhist Seoul International Zen Center seoulzen.org 02-900-4326 Vairocana International Buddhist Meditation Center 02-735-5347 Jetavana Meditation Center jetavanacenter@gmail.com 02-595-5115 Catholic Bomun 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Chunma 02-765-0870 Dongducheon 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Hannam International Church English, Italian, Spanish, French 02-793-2070 Hyewha-dong Catholic Church 02-764-0221 (press 6) Jinjob 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Keumchon 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Philippine Center Tagalog 02-765-0870 Pastral Center for Labor English, Vietnamese, Thai 02-924-2721 Salesio Labor Center Tagalog, Daelim 1 dong 02-765-0870 Sung-dong Social Welfare Center Tagalog 02-765-0870 Yoksam-dong Church 02-553-0801 Catholics in South Korea Facebook Group, Annamarie at sunshineamore25@gmail.com Islam Seoul Central Masjid 02-794-7307 Protestant Gwanglim Church 02-2056-5732 International Lutheran 02-794-6274
Jubilee Church 02-569-2293 Kumnan Church 02-490-7000 Myungsung Presbyterian 02-440-9000 New Philadelphia Church newphiladelphiachurch.com 02-706-2501 Onnuri Church 02-793-9686 Presbyterian Church of the Lord empcl.org 010-2266-6453 Somang Presbyterian 02-512-9191 Seoul Union Church 02-333-7393 Yoido Full Gospel Church 02-782-4851 Yongsan Baptist Church 02-796-0284 Medical Services
Caribou Coffee Popular in America, Caribou Coffee has expanded to Korea with locations at Ewha University, Sinchon, Yangjae, and Incheon Airport. Support fair trade with the Rainforest Alliance Certified coffee sold here. cariboukorea.co.kr 02-3461-5680
SEOUL
A Plus Dental aplusdental.co.kr 02-3442-7616 Hus Hu Dental & Skin Clinic hus-hu.com 02-519-8013 Jaseng Hospital of Oriental Medicine Are you suffering from back or neck pain? Visit the non-surgical spinal specialists. jaseng.net 02-3218-2167 Korea Counseling Psychological Association krcpa.or.kr 02-498-8293 Korea HIV/AIDS Prevention & Support Center khap.org 02-927-4322 New York Wholistic Care Dr. Vincent Jong, an experienced New York chiropractor, uses pilates/yoga and body balancing therapy to help you reenergize your mind and achieve optimal health. F2, 736-21 Hannam-dong, Yongsangu. nywc.co.kr 02-792-2296 Ra Dental Clinic 02-569-8745 Tufts Dental Clinic 02-553-7512
Restaurants
American Chili King Itaewon Beefy burgers and chili served up by owner Kevin Cyr. 02-795-1303 Bonji Bistro Just behind Itaewon Hotel and under Gecko’s Garden, Bonji Bistro offers a terrific menu of salads, sandwiches, pastas and classic tapas along with an unbeatable bar. The floor-to-ceiling window door-walls open wide, making it the perfect place to be for their delicious weekend brunch. geckosterrace.com 02-795-9656 EST 1894 Burgers are cooked up on the special rotagrill. Located just behind the Itaewon Market. 2nd Fl. 34-25 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. est1894.com 02-792-1894 The Frypan 02-794-5598 Gallery Through Head here to enjoy fantastic meals, parties, art, and people. 02-798-1900
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WY Dentistry Gangnam Better than your dentist back home. Dr. Yoo is a US-trained and licensed dentist with over 20 years of clinical dental experience serving the expat community since 1996. wydent.com 02-514-5575 Cafes
Caffé Bene Whether it’s coffee, gelato, or a waffle you’re looking for, you can find it at one of the 400 Caffé Bene outlets across Korea. caffebene.co.kr 02-3438-6888
Gecko’s Terrace The original Itaewon foreigner hangout, with a comfortable atmosphere, delicious food including great sandwiches, salads and pasta, and English-speaking staff that know how to make cocktails and shots right. geckosterrace.com 02-749-9425 Gecko’s Garden Legendary for its gorgeous home-style atmosphere, Gecko’s Garden has now started offering a delicious buffet, with steaks and pasta made to order. Don’t worry; the tapas menu is also still alive and well. geckosterrace.com 02-790-0540 Hollywood Grill The place for Premier League Football and other sports, Hollywood has a great menu of pizza, pasta and steaks along with darts, foosball, pool and Golden Tee. hollywoodgrill.co.kr 02-749-1659
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10 Magazine May 2011 | 53
SEOUL DIRECTORY Naked Grill Terrific Mexican food, salads and steaks, cooked up to order in a trendy atmosphere. 02-749-4225 Pancakes Original Story Itaewon Mon – Sat 9 am – 10 pm. 02-794-0508 Pita Time Haebangchon The salads, pitas and pizzas here provide a low-calorie, healthy meal. 11 am - 10 pm. pitatime.co.kr 02-790-8891
Sortino’s Cucina Itaewon Classic Italian trattoria cuisine in a comfortable, homey atmosphere. 02-797-0488 Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong 02-790-0776 Villa Sortino’s Itaewon An incredible Tuscan Villa interior matches perfectly with some delicately prepared Italian flavors. Just across from the Itaewon fire station. 02-553-9000
SEOUL
Wang Thai Itaewon Prepared by locally trained chefs, Wang Thai offers only the best of Thai food. Enjoy delicious food in an exotic ambience. 02-749-2746~7
The Pizza Peel Itaewon Offering fresh classic Italian and Western-style pizzas. Enjoy with beer or wine. We are hard to find but easy to remember! Dine in or take out. 02-795-3283 Suji’s Itaewon Great American fare in a New York-style bistro atmosphere. sujis.net 02-797-3698
DAESUNG CHURCH
GYEONGRIDAN NOKSAPYEONG STATION
T.G. Brunch Cafe Chef Choi from Hawaii serves a delightful brunch along with his signature burgers, sandwiches, and more. Wine W2,500 for ladies. Wednesdays wing night: 10 for W3,000. 02-749-8005 Toque Itaewon 02-794-3834 Austrian Chef Meili Itaewon 02-797-3820 BRAZILIAN Copacabana Itaewon For only W29,000 you get all-you-can-eat of 7 different cuts of roasted meat and a tremendous Brazilian buffet. Make your reservations today! 02-796-1660 Bulgarian Zelen Itaewon 02-749-0600 Chinese Ho Lee Chow Serving up the best North American-style Chinatown cuisine in Korea since 1998, with 5 convenient locations in the greater Seoul area to serve you. holeechow.co.kr. Itaewon 02-793-0802, Apgujeong 02-514-1730 Jamshil 02-411-0688, Dogok 02-34614468, Bundang 02-711-9071 French La Cigale Monmartre Itaewon 02-796-1244 Le Saint-Ex Itaewon 02-795-2465 Italian Fradia Gangnam Gaze out on a panoramic view of the Seoul skyline as you dine on choice Italian food at this cafe floating on the Han River. fradia.co.kr 02-3477-0033 La Bocca Itaewon We can’t decide whether it’s a cafe, pastry shop, deli, or wine bar, but what we are sure about is that the food is fresh and the taste is divine. labocca.co.kr 02-790-5907
54 | 10 Magazine May 2011
boasts a varied menu, plus wines and all types of music. Noksapyeong St. (line 6). 457-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. awakeinseoul@gmail.com 02-749-0903
B1 Itaewon One of the most hopping bars in Itaewon on any given night, with guest DJs and a good vibe. 7 pm - 3 am. 02-749-6164
Bars/Lounges/Pubs
All day american breakfast
IBK BANK
atmosphere is sure to please. 070-7624-3149 My Thai Itaewon 02-794-8090 Thai Orchid Itaewon 02-517-1135 Thai Garden Itaewon 02-792-8836
Antonio’s Cheongdamdong Join chef Sebastiano Giangregorio for an authentic Italian culinary experience. Live jazz performances Friday and Saturday at 7:30. 93-8 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu. antonios.kr 02-3443-4333 korean Bulgogi Brothers Delicious Koreanstyle barbecue at locations throughout Seoul including Gangnam, Myeongdong (02-319-3351), Seoul Station, and Times Square. 11:30 am - 10 pm. bulgogibros.com Pulhyanggi Gangnam A tasty concoction of traditional Korean dishes and a contemporary slow-food sensibility, plus performances in the evenings. Close to COEX. 11 am – 10 pm. pulhyanggi.co.kr 02-539-3390 Mexican Amigos Itaewon 02-795-9711 On the Border The #1 American chain hits that craving for fajitas, chimichangas, tacos, burritos, enchiladas and even margaritas. ontheborder.co.kr Sinchon: 02-324-0682 COEX: 02-565-0682 Times Square: 02-2672-0682 Pancho’s Itaewon 02-792-4767 Taco Amigo Itaewon 02-749-5253 Tomatillo Grill Locations at Jonggak Stn., Samseong Stn., and Yeoksam Stn. tomatillo.co.kr 02-734-9225 Middle Eastern Istanbul Noksapyeong 02-796-0271 Marakech Nights Itaewon 02-795-9441 Petra Itaewon 02-790-4433 SPANISH Bodega Jamsil With flamenco on every Friday. bodega.co.kr 02-3432-8686 Thai Buddha’s Belly Itaewon A lounge atmosphere with full bar and cocktails along with great authentic Thai food. 02-796-9330 Eat Me Itaewon Thai fusion dining and lounge, late night kitchen in Itaewon. Relax in the intimate yet casual dining area and outside patio. Sophisticated
Wine Bars Dulce Y Suave Garosugil Stop by this classy Sinsa-dong wine bar for an extensive wine list that won’t break your budget. 5 pm - 3 am. club.cyworld. com/dulceysuave. 02-515-6750 Vin Ga Apgujeong Immaculate service and a subdued atmosphere make this the wine bar of choice for dinner parties and business meetings. Podo Plaza building near Apgujeong St. podoplaza.co.kr 02-516-1761 Lounges / PUBS 3 Alley Pub Itaewon Rub shoulders with long-term Seoul expats and try your hands at darts or pool in this comfortable foreigner-owned pub. 116-15 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. 3alleypub.com 02-749-3336 Bar Rouge Itaewon Luxurious wine and tapas bar in the basement of the JW Marriot in Gangnam. Happy hour Tue - Thu 6 - 9 pm. 02-6282-6763
TWO GREAT LOCATIONS
B AR SHINCHON TEL:(02)3339733
Between Itaewon This multi-level lounge serves contemporary Italian and Spanish mains, lunch, brunch and tapas in a sophisticated atmosphere with live DJs and a spacious terrace. 124-7 Yongsangu, Itaewon-dong. 02-795-6164 Bliss Itaewon Fresh beats by DJ Shine and a reasonably priced menu. Itaewon. 4 pm – 4 am. 02-798-1125 BricX Hongdae, Itaewon Chill out at either of BricX’s two locations. Hongdae 6 pm – 5 am, 마포구 서교동 409-1, B1, 02-3141-5571. Itaewon 7 pm – 5 am, 용산구 이태원동 119-10, B1, bricx.com 02-795-5572 The Bungalow Itaewon This quirky beach-themed bar has sand on the floor, swinging chairs, and candle-lit rooms. 02-793-2344 Coffee Bar K Cheongdam-dong A Japanese franchise, they may just have the best bartenders in town. Mon – Sat 6 pm - 2 am. 02-516-1970
P IZ ZA ITAEWON TEL:(02)7920007
IBK BANK
NOKSAPYEONG STATION
w w w. be e ro c l o c k . c a Beer O’Clock The bar in Sinchon has darts and several sports on big-screen TVs with great food. The Kyeongnidan location will satisfy your Canadian-style pizza needs. Beer O’Clock serves up good times. Sinchon: 02-333-9733 Berlin Noksapyeong Combining a restaurant, cafe and lounge, Berlin
The Concorde Classic and cozy, this wine and martini bar offers an intimate and timeless atmosphere. Reuben sandwiches, quiche, soups and salads available till 1:00 am. 02-749-1210 Dillinger’s A classic-styled bar with seven beers on tap, great food and drink specials. Come enjoy our large flatscreen TVs, dartboards and Wii games. A great atmosphere for you and your friends. 02-793-7232
SEOUL DIRECTORY Ghetto Vox Itaewon Itaewon’s first art and music space. 32-5 (3rd floor) Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. ghettovox.com 010-3370-2979 Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong Great home-style Italian cuisine with late night cocktail lounge. 02-790-0776
Tony’s Aussie Bar & Bistro Itaewon Home of W6000 Guinness & Kilkenny on tap. Non–smoking environment with authentic Aussie food, beer & wine with Monday open mic and Wednesday comedy night. tonysitaewon.com 02-790-0793 Wolfhound Itaewon Terrific Irish/British classic food in a true Irish Pub atmosphere, including shepherd’s pie, toad in a hole, fish n’ chips, bangers n’ mash along with Guinness and Kilkenny on draft. wolfhoundpub.com 02-749-7971 Live Music
Jazz All That Jazz Itaewon 02-795-5701 Cheonnyeondongando (천년동안도) Daehangno (Hyehwa St. Line4) chunnyun.com 02-743-5555 Club Evans Hongdae clubevans.com 02-337-8361 Club Palm Hongdae clubpalm.co.kr 02-336-9016 Once in a Blue Moon Apgujeong onceinabluemoon.co.kr 02-549-5490
Oakwood Premier Woori Bank Teheranno
COEX
InterContinental Hotel
Seoul Pub Crawl Meet cool people, play drinking games and party all night long. Where the bars get louder, the drinks get cheaper and the people get better looking. www.seoulpubcrawl. webs.com 010-5839-9257 Seventy Four Cheongdam-dong A beautiful date spot featuring exotic drinks such as cheese martinis, banana mojitos and cuba libres. 7 pm – 4 am. 02-542-7412
SEOUL
Phillies The legendary local’s bar is now remodeled and under new ownership. Great burgers and wings. 02-793-2548 Platoon Kunsthalle Apgujeong Showcasing underground artists and a fine selection of cutting-edge performances. 11 am – 1 am. Closed Sun. 97-22 Gangnam-gu, Nonhyeondong. kunsthalle.com 02-3447-1191 Rocky Mountain Tavern Itaewon Canadians feel right at home with all the hockey jerseys hanging on the walls and great live music and events, along with some of the best buffalo wings in Korea. Don’t miss the Stand Up Seoul comedy night the first Thursday of each month. rockymountaintavern.com 010-5775-2327 Roofers Itaewon Come hang out in a warm, friendly atmosphere. Sample the mouthwatering menu, relax on the spacious rooftop and enjoy numerous expat events. Facebook: Roofers Rooftop Bar. 02-749-2970 Sam Ryan’s Itaewon This newcomer to the Itaewon scene offers sports fans eight flat screens throughout the bar along with the meanest plate of pork ribs to be found in Seoul. samryans.com 02-749-7933 Scrooge Pub/Dicken’s Lounge Itaewon A great little sports bar with pool, darts, delicious food and plenty of English-speaking staff. 02-797-8201
So Much More Apgujeong Combining a hip interior design with the hottest music and the coolest drinks. Noon - 2 am. blog.naver.com/ so_much_more 02-3447-7890
Hyundai Department Store
LINE Line 22 Samseong Stn.
Tokyo Jazz Authentic jazz music performed Mon-Sat, 9:30 pm - 12:30 am by European, American, and Korean musicians. Two minute’s walking distance from the COEX and Grand InterContinental Hotels. 153-44 Samsung-dong. 02-3453-4472
Advertise in our Directory! It’s inexpensive and helps expats and tourists find YOU! marketing@10magazine.asia or 02-3447-1610 10 Magazine May 2011 | 55
SEOUL DIRECTORY Rock Freebird Hongdae cafe.navercom/ clubfreebird 02-335-4576 Jammers Hongdae jammers.co.kr 02- 325-3914 Just Blues Apgujeong justblues.co.kr 02-542-4788 SoundHolic Hongdae cafe.daum.net/ SoundHolic 02-3142-4233 Clubs
Club Hamilton Hotel Fire Station
n
n Statio
Itaewo
KB Bank
SEOUL
Police Station
[ Itaewon Station Exit 3 ] Tel: 793.2333
GOOD FOOD
GOOD TIMES LO C AT I O N S
Itaewon Jukjeon Busan Jeju
Gecko’s Terrace, Bonji Bistro, Gecko’s Garden Gecko’s Uyeong Plaza Tel 031 262 9974 Haeundae Beach Pale de CZ Tel 051 747 3069 Island Gecko’s Jungmun Tel 064 739 0845
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56 | 10 Magazine May 2011
America Latina Itaewon opens at 8 pm Wednesdays to Sundays and offers Salsa classes. Check Facebook group: Club America Latina in Seoul. Answer Cheongdam-dong After a short-lived stint as gala restaurant Le Nuit Blanche, the club we all know and love is back. clubanswer.co.kr 02-514-4311 Ben @Blue Spirit Hongdae Great Japanese curry during the day and soju cocktails at night. Hit up the weekend parties. 360-18 SeokyoDong, Mapo-Gu. 02-3142-5301 Eden Gangnam Mega club with top DJs, sizzling sound, and model nights. 역삼동 602 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnamgu, Ritz Carlton Hotel. eden-club.co.kr 010-9913-3919 Function Itaewon The boutique club hidden in the fancy Macaroni Market restaurant. Tue, Wed, Thu 6 pm – 2:30 am; Fri and Sat 6 pm-3:30 am. 737-50 Hannnam1-dong Yongsan-gu. 02-749-9181 Heaven Gangnam The newest member of Seoul’s club scene combines top-notch technology with divine DJs spinning house and electro beats. W30,000 general admission, W40,000 for after club hours. Near Yeoksam St. clubheaven.co.kr 02-3444-4997 J.J. Mahoney’s The drinks don’t come cheap, but this nightclub at the Grand Hyatt is a favorite with the over-30s crowd. 747-7 Hannam 2-dong. seoul.grand.hyatt.com 02-797-1234 Koobar @Blue Spirit Apgujeong Hip music for a classy crowd. 664-11 Shinsadong, Gangnam-gu. 02-518-5115 M2 Hongdae This long-running club is party central for college students. Sun – Thu 8 pm – 4 am, Fri and Sat 7:30 pm – 6 am. Cover starts at W10,000. 367-11 Seogyo-dong Mapo-gu. ohoo.net/m2 02-3143-7573 Mansion Hongdae This new club pumps out sizzling house, electro, and nu-disco grooves, bringing in quality acts like Roni Size and Goldie. mansionseoul@ gmail.com 02-3143-4037 Mass Gangnam The dance club for the “masses.” 9 pm – 6 am. Sun – Thu W15,000, Fri and Sat W20,000. clubmass.net 02-599-3165 NB Hongdae, Gangnam Supposedly the first hip-hop club in Korea, it has one bar, two stages, and a packed crowd. clubnb.com 02-326-1716 Pulse Itaewon This chilled-out club pumps out danceable tunes in all
genres of electronic music until sunrise. Everyday 8 pm – 7 am. Fri W10,000, Sat W15,000. 02-792-6662 Q-vo Hongdae A popular hip hop club with strobes pulsing above the dance floor. Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun 8 pm – 4 am and Wed, Fri, Sat 8 pm – 6:30 am. W10,000 - W15,000. 121-210 Ohoo B/ D 367-1 Seogyo Dong. clubqvo.co.kr 02-3143-7573 Saab Hongdae Fashion-conscious twenty-somethings congregate here for a wide variety of music styles. Weekdays 6 pm – 4 am, weekends 6 pm – 6 am. W10,000 cover on weekends. 02-324-6929 Volume Itaewon A true “music lovers” club, Volume is found in the basement of Crown Hotel. Fri and Sat 9 pm - 6 am. W15,000 - W30,000. Crown Hotel B1 clubvolume.com 1544-2635 Woo Bar Check out the split-level lobby lounge for cool music and exclusive parties. No cover charge. 21 Gwangjang-dong wseoul.com 02-465-2222 Massage
Healing Hands Massage Studio healinghands.co.kr 070-7504-8090 Beauty
All staff are qualified by VIDAL SASSOON.
Become a model and get a FREE make over. Mon~Sat: 10 am–9 pm Appointment only Tel. 02-512-3798~9
Marie&M Gangnam The right haircut makes all the difference! All staff at this salon are qualified by Vidal Sassoon. 02-512-3798 Tony&Guy Whether it’s a cut, highlight, low light, or hair spa that you want, you’re guaranteed to get professional service from the English-speaking stylists at Toni & Guy. Near Hongik University. 02-338-2773 Florists
Oxana Garden oxanagarden.com
02-798-6787
Community
Brazilians in Seoul Also known as Brasileiros em Seul, this group meets up on the 3rd Tuesday of each month. alocoreia@gmail.com 010-9631-2133 Gangnam Hills Toastmasters Club Helping you develop oral communication and leadership skills. koreatraining@ yahoo.com 010-8779-1969 Republicans Abroad Monthly meetings, events, and lectures for supporters of the USA Republican Party. kmohay@ hotmail.com 010-8688-9810
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GANGWON CALENDAR Performances April 30th - May 1st My Friend Doraemon: The Family Musical Doraemon is the robot cat who has been Japan’s “national character” for about 40 years. He’s even 12 years older than Dooly, Korea’s most famous comic figure. Chiak Art Center in Wonju. 60 min. W25,000. cs.wonju.go.kr 033-741-2538 May 22nd Jang Yun-jeong Concert Trot (Korean polka) is growing in popularity largely because of Jang Yun-jeong. Her trot songs are as catchy as pop music and have appeared as hits on drama soundtracks. Wonju Chiak Stadium. 5 pm. 120min. W66,000 W88,000. kwbc.co.kr 033-766-3905 May 27th - 28th
e di t or’ s pick gangwon PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance Chuncheon Online Info tour.chuncheon.go.kr/eng
Libraries Chuncheon City Library iccl.or.kr 033-254-3887 Taebaek Municipal Library tbmlib.or.kr 033-550-2755
Amusement Parks Dreamland Amusement Park With a large zoo and plenty of rides, there’s lots of fun to be found at this park at Chiak Mountain near Wonju. W20,000 for adults, W18,000 for children. mydreamland.co.kr 033-732-5800
Museums
Family & Community
Hotels/Accommodations
April 29th - May 3rd King Danjong Festival King Danjong is the only king who was not given a proper funeral among the 27 kings of the Joseon Dynasty. After granting him a state funeral 550 years after his death, Yeongwol turned the ceremony into a yearly ritual. Jangneung, Cheongryeongpo, and the Dong River waterfront in Yeongwol. ywtour.com 1577-0545 May 7th - June 9th Gangneung Dano Festival Dano, one of the most famous Korean festivals, is held each year on May 5th (according to the lunar calendar). Join in this festival to understand more of Korea’s agricultural history. Dano Grounds, Namdaecheon, Gangneung. danojefestival.or.kr 033-641-1593
Food & drink May 5th - 8th Inje Yongdaeri Hwangtae Festival Hwangtae is a kind of dried pollack, and in this festival, you can enjoy traditional experiences such as a hwangtae cooking contest. Yongdae-3ri, Buk-myeon, Injegun. yongdaeri.com/festival 033-462-4808 May 14th - 16th Yanggu Gomchwi Festival You can taste various healthy dishes made of gomchwi (a wild vegetable) and also take a look at Pallang Falls and a traditional museum in the deep countryside. Pallang Falls in Yanggu-gun. ygtour.kr 033-481-2191
Sport & Fitness K-League Football 8th Gangwon vs Sungnam at Chuncheon Stadium, 3 pm 14th Gangwon vs Gwangju, at Gangneung Stadium, 7 pm League Cup Football 5th Gangwon vs Busan at Gangneung Stadium, 3 pm
The Wonderful World of the Chuncheon Mime Fest
Wander through Udamari Park and get lost in the arts. This May 22nd through 29th, ninety organizations from around the world will gather in Chuncheon for the 23rd annual International Mime Festival. Walk through the main gate at Udamari Park (난장마을 우다마리) and into a scene that seems to have leapt from the mind of Tim Burton. Packs of creatures roam the grounds, reminding visitors that they are in a land of spectacles. You may have trouble settling on which performance to watch, as each stage, busker, or patch of grass has something special to offer. Hit up the bigger stages for the international big names or local heroes and check out some of the smaller stages or performance venues for more intimate performances (I suggest Brown 5th street). The most amazing aspect of any mime artist is their ability to contort face and body into weird and wonderful shapes. Keeping that in mind, to really appreciate an act you’ve got to lock down that front row seat. For big stages, get there extra early, or order tickets in advance). If you’re looking to fill some time between acts, opt for a crowd-drawing busker and wiggle your way to the front of the gaggle. If you’re sticking around for the entire weekend, no worries! There is still plenty to do at night. Some more risqué performances keep the night owls entertained, and DJ music sets and dancing usually start shortly after. G e t t i n g Th e r e
Hotel Inter-Burgo Wonju wonju.inter-burgo.com 033-766-8000 W Hotel Wonju w-hotel.co.kr 033-742-5454
Medical Services Gangwon National University Hospital Chuncheon knuh.or.kr/html/index.asp 033-258-2000 Gangnam Hospital Chuncheon ekangnam.co.kr 033-240-7000 Hyundai Animal Clinic Chuncheon dog7582.co.kr 033-256-7582 Ye Dental Clinic Chuncheon ccye.co.kr 033-262-2078
Restaurants Acozza Cafe Wonju Classy pizzas served in chic industrial décor. acozza.co.kr 033-766-7999
10 Magazine May 2011 | 57
Festival events take place at Udamari Park, Chuncheon Cultural and Arts Center, and other select venues in the city. A free shuttle from the bus terminal to Udamari Park is available for the duration of Mimefest. For directions and more info, visit the website at mimefestival.com. Words and shots by J u di t h A nn C lancy
GANGWON
C’est Si Bon Concert Many Koreans remember listening to acoustic songs on the “C’est Si Bon” program back in the 70s. Wonju Chiak Stadium. Fri 8 pm, Sat 7:30 pm. 150 min. W77,000 - W110,000. ticket.interpark.com 1688-8616
Bangsan Porcelain Museum Yanggu-gun bangsanm.or.kr 033-480-2664 Chuncheon Makguksu Museum makguksumuseum.com 033-250-4134 Haslla Art World Gangneung haslla.kr 033-644-9411 Marisorigol Musical Instrument Museum Hongcheon-gun great.go.kr 033-430-2016 Sokbong Ceramic Museum Sokcho dogong.net 033-638-7711 Teddy Bear Farm Sokcho teddyfarm.net 033-636-3680 Wonju Hanji Museum Wonju wjhanji.co.kr 033-731-2323
GYEONGGI CALENDAR Art Through May 30th Out of the Silent Planet Art by Korean media artists including Park Hyeon-gi, and Yuk Tae-jin. National Museum of Contemporary Art in Gwacheon. Seoul Grand Park Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Weekdays 10 am – 5 pm, weekends 10 am – 8 pm, closed Mon. Free. moca.go.kr 02-2188-6000 Through June 26th Kim Chong Hak Retrospective Featuring 70 major paintings by Kim Chong Hak, known for his depictions of Korea’s natural environment. National Museum of Contemporary Art in Gwacheon. 10 am - 6 pm. moca.go.kr 02-2188-6038 Through July 10th Masters of Korean Ink Painting: Chang Wu-seong and Park No-su Compare the paintings of these two artists, similar in form but radically different in execution. Woljeon Museum of Art in Icheon. 10 am - 6 pm. W400 W2,000. iwoljeon.org 031-637-0033
Theater & Dance
f o odi e f i n ds
London’s Calling Can’t afford to go to London? This Yongin café is the next best thing. “Penalty for staring” and “mind the step” are just a couple of the signs that greet you on your arrival. You could be forgiven for thinking that you had just entered the Tube, London’s underground, but in fact this is a much more welcoming and cozy place to whittle away a couple of hours. You’re liable to be greeted by Jessie, the resident Scottish terrier, who is the proud possession of the owners, Englishman Nick and his Korean wife Lia. Launched in the second half of last year, Café London is quickly becoming a favorite spot for the students of nearby Dankook University and the small expat community in the area. The reasons: owners who remember your name, tasty burgers, toasties and healthy drinks. There’s even mulled wine to get you through the winter chills, and the extensive cocktail list and draft Krombacher keeps Korean office workers happy as well. In addition to the drinks, Nick gives Koreans a taste of British culture and language in his twice weekly conversation club. Throw in an awesome background of Western music on the stereo and British and American TV shows on screen and you’ve got an array of reasons to find your way here. G e t t i n g Th e r e
This British-themed bar is located in front of the entrance to Dankook University’s Jukjeon campus (in Yongin, south of Seoul): keep an eye out for the London underground sign. There are numerous express buses from Jongno and Gangnam that head straight here, and subway riders can get out at Jukjeon Stn. (Bundang line) and take a bus or a 20-minute walk. It’s open 7 days a week from the late morning until the last customer leaves at night. Contact Nick at 010-5048-2312. Dandae Plaza #102, 1335-3 Jukjeon-dong, Suji-gu, Yongin, Gyeonggi-do. cafelondon.co.kr Words by Patr ick Conway 58 | 10 Magazine May 2011
Ongoing Saturday Performance at Hwaseong Head down to Hwaseong Castle in Suwon for court dancing, folk music, tight-rope walking, and more. Every Saturday at 2 pm. W500 - W1,500 hs.suwon.ne.kr 031-251-4435
Concerts May 6th - 8th
5th World DJ Festival No longer held in Seoul, the festival this year moves to Yangpyeong to escape the traffic snarl, congestion, and smog, and traders the city lights for starlight. Ticket prices start at W55,000 for two days with a three-day pass selling for W120,000. worlddjfest.com
Family & Community
Through May 15th Wildflower Exhibit at the Garden of Morning Calm Displaying various kinds of Korean wildflowers found everywhere from Halla to Baekdu Mountain. Wildflower Exhibit Hall at the Garden of Morning Calm in Gapyeong. 8:30 am - 8:30 pm. Adults W8,000, teens W5,000, children W4,000. morningcalm.co.kr 1544-6703 Through May 16th 24th Icheon Ceramic Festival Icheon is famous as a center of ceramic activity in Korea. Seolbong Park & Doye (Pottery) Village in Icheon. Weekdays 10 am, weekends 9 am. ceramic.or.kr 031-644-2944 Through June 12th Seoul Land Spring Festival Seoul Land is a great spot for a family outing. Ride roller coasters or view the tulips with your family. Seoul Land in Gwacheon. Adults W17,000, teens W14,000, children W12,000. seoulland.co.kr 02-509-6000 April 29th - May 15th Goyang Korea Flower Show Fill up your lungs with the crisp spring air and the beautiful scent of thousands of flowers. Goyang Flower Exhibition Hall in Ilsan Lake Park. Weekdays 9 am - 7 pm, weekends & holidays 8:30 am - 7:30 pm (open to the public starting on the the 30th). Adults W6,000, students W4,000. flower.or.kr 031-908-7750 April 30th - May 1st Suwon Stream Tulip Festival Enjoy the beautiful tulips planted by the Suwon Stream. Activities include balloon art and raft sailing. tour.suwon.ne.kr 031-228-6114 April 30th - May 15th Gunpo Royal Azalea Festival Gunpo is a city famous for cheoljjuk (royal azelea). Yangji Park and Cheoljjuk Dongsan in Gunpo. gunpofestival.org 031-390-0929 May 4th - 5th Uiwang Kids Festival May 5th is Children’s Day in Korea, and many performances and games will be held at Uiwang Nature Education Park and the Train Museum at Wangsong Lake in Uiwang. uw21.net/festival 031-345-2892 May 4th - 8th Uiwang Flower Festival This festival includes a lot of events like flower-themed performances and magic shows. Yongin Nongchon Theme Park. 10 am. W500 W3,000. tour.yonginsi.net 031-324-2102 May 5th - 8th
Through May 1st Everland Tulip Festival Walk along lanes lined with flowers and through the four seasons garden filled with thousands of tulips and pinwheels. Everland in Yongin. 9:30 am - 9 pm. Adults W31,000, teens W26,000, children W23,000. everland.com 031-320-5000 Seoul Zoo Flower Festival During this festival, there are various shows and exhibitions such as happy zoo busking and a trick art exhibit. Seoul Grand Park Zoo in Gwacheon. 9 am - 7 pm. Adults W3,000, teens W2,000, children W1,000. grandpark.seoul.go.kr 02-500-7335 Through May 8th Hantaek Botanical Garden Flower Festival This garden includes various endangered plants as well as unique flowers just now starting to bloom. Hantaek Botanical Garden in Yongin. 9 am. Adults W8,500, teens W6,000, children W5,000. hantaek.co.kr 031-333-3558
Ansan International Street Play Festival This festival consists of street theater performed by Korean and overseas troupes. Enjoy a variety of plays free of charge. Ansan 25-si Square. ansanfest.com 031-481-0535 Guri Han River Rape Flower Festival Each year, thousands of people visit the Guri Han River Park to see the yuchae (rape) flowers in bloom. guri.go.kr 031-557-1010 May 5th - 10th G Global Aviation Don’t miss the dynamic air show as well as more than 130 aircraft on display, including
helicopters, jets, and prop planes. Near Gyeonggi Technopark in Ansan. 9 am - 6 pm. skyexpo.or.kr 031-407-6655 May 6th - 8th Namjong Bunwon Village Steamed Carp Festival Try out bungeo jjim (steamed carp) and don’t miss the beauiful scenery of Paldang Dam. Namjong-myeon, Stadium in Gwangju. bunwon.com 031-760-4971 May 6th - 15th Yangpyeong Yongmun Mountain Wild Greens and Korean Cattle Festival Yongmun Mountain Tourist Site in Yangpyeong. 10 am - 9 pm. tour.yp21.net 031-773-5101 May 20th - 22th Hanatour International Travel Show Plan your next vacation at this expo held at KINTEX in Ilsan. W5,000. hits2011.co.kr 82-2-2127-1000 May 27th - 29th The Geumsa Melon Festival Many of Korea’s best chamoe melons are produced here. Geumsa Geullin Park in Yeoju. 11 am - 9:30 pm. chamoi.kr 031-887-3892
Education & Conferences
Sport & Fitness KBO Baseball Games are held at Munhak Stadium, home of the SK Wyverns. 1st vs Doosan Bears 5 pm 6th vs KIA Tigers 6:30 pm 7th - 8th KIA Tigers 5 pm 17th - 19th Lotte Giants 6:30 pm 20th SK vs Nexen Heroes 6:30 pm 21st - 22nd vs Nexen Heroes 5 pm 31st vs Doosan Bears 6:30 pm 2011 K-League Football May 7th Suwon vs Jeonnam Suwon World Cup Stadium, 7:30 pm May 11th Sungnam vs Incheon Sungnam Tancheon Stadium, 8 pm May 15th Sungnam vs Suwon Sungnam Tancheon Stadium, 5 pm Incheon vs Busan Incheon Munhak Stadium, 3 pm May 21st Suwon vs Busan Suwon World Cup Stadium, 7:30 pm May 29th Sungnam vs Seoul Sungnam Tancheon Stadium, 5 pm Incheon vs Suwon Incheon Munhak Stadium, 3 pm
Religious Services
Grace & Truth Church Anyang, Ansan, and Suwon Sunday 9:30 am, 11 am, 1 pm, grace-truth.org 031-443-3731 Dongsan Church Ansan Sunday 11:30 am, 010-2910-7809 Museums
Central America Culture Center Goyang. latina.or.kr 031-962-7171 Elvis Presley Memorial Hall Paju paju.go.kr 031-948-3358 Face Museum Gwangju (Gyeonggi Province). visagej.org 031-765-3522 Korean Lamp (Deung-Jan) Museum Yongin deungjan.or.kr/eng 031-334-0797 Waltz & Dr. Mahn Coffee Museum Namyangju wndcof.com 031-576-6051 Transportation
International Taxi (English speaking) 1644-2255 Jumbo Taxi Service (more expensive) 02-888-2000 Radio
US Armed Forces Network Dongducheon AM 1197/FM 88.3 Pyongtaek AM 1440/FM 88.3 Songtan AM 1359/FM 88.5 Uijeongbu AM 1161/FM 88.5
GYEONGGI
May 4th - 8th Yeoncheon Jeongok-ri Paleolithic Festival This “edutainment” festival is a good chance to learn about the paleolithic age. Jeongok prehistoric site in Yeoncheon-gun. 10 am - 9 pm. goosukgi.org 031-839-2561
gyeongGI province
Restaurants
Cafe Nicolia Bucheon European-style café and wine bar. cafenicolia.com 032-329-0526 La Mia Cucina Ilsan The kitchen is always open at this English-friendly Italian pub. 7 pm – 4 am. 010-2327-8882 First Nepal Restaurant Incheon firstnepal.com 032-525-8771 Bars/Lounges/Pubs
The Big Chill Suwon Chill out in a big way with the friendly crowd while enjoying a game of pool, darts, or wii. Opens 8 pm on Wed – Sat and 4 pm on Sun. Facebook group, edwardjorgensen@gmail.com 010-3136-0153 The Park Bucheon Rhythm & Blues Bucheon 032-323-0161 West Island Ilsan 031-917-2225
May 21st Cheonjinam Ultra Marathon 100km at the Gwangju Middle School in Gwangju. 8 pm. W60,000. Register by May 7th. cjaultra.com 010-5290-6662 May 29th Yangpyeong Lee Ju-bong and Kyungin Newspaper Marathon Yangpyeong Gangsang Park in Yangpyeong. Half, 10 km, 4.2 km. 8:30 am. W10,000 - W30,000. Register by April 30th. hangangmarathon.net 031-231-5511
Nightlife Ongoing Rhythm and Booze Events All of the following events are held at Rhythm and Booze in Bucheon. 5/5: Kegger (W15,000 for all-you-can-drink Cass). 5/21: Beer Olympics. 5 pm. W25,000 per player. 5/27 - 5/29: Raising Hope: A Fundraiser to Help Underprivileged Children. mangchi62@hotmail.com 032-323-0161
Jukjeon Gecko’s Yongin Bundang and Yongin expats should be ecstatic to know that the famous Gecko’s chain is expanding south. Near the Shinsegye department store. geckosterrace.com 031-262-9974 Clubs
Club Psycho Anyang bcmusicworld.com
010-7754-0409
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CHUNGCHEONG CALENDAR dis c ov er y
Art April 29th - May 1st Yoon Bong-gil Cultural Festival This cultural festival memorializes independence fighter and martyr Yoon Bong-gil. You can share fireworks and Korean traditional music with the Yesan residents. Chungui Temple in Yesangun. woljin429.com 041-338-9514
Performances May 5th The Willing Prisoners in Concert The Willing Prisoners is a 3-piece NYbased indie group who have been compared to The Strokes. Daejeon (venue TBA). dg.noizemakesenemies@gmail.com May 20th - 21st The Tale of Lee Jung-seop’s Art Even children can easily understand Lee’s art through mime, animation, and images. Jung-seop’s art reflects his struggle with poverty and can bring children deep aspirations. Continuing Education Center in Asan. 60 min. Fri 10 am & 1 pm, Sat 3 pm & 6 pm W5,000 W7,000 asan.go.kr/culture 041-534-2634
Family & Community
CHUNGCHEONG
Cold Springs Provide a Bubbly Bath If you enjoy hot springs and public baths, then you will relish the refreshing cold mineral springs at Chojeong-ri. Chojeong-ri, a small rural town in North Chungcheong Province, is famous for its natural springs, which provide much of the carbonated water for many of Korea’s sodas. However, despite the association of carbonated water with soft drinks, the spring water here is purely natural and is said to be healthy for the skin. Legend has it that King Sejong himself (the man on the man won note) visited the springs here in 1444 after going blind. After staying here for 60 days, the story goes, he regained his vision. There were once a number of bathhouses, but the only one remaining today is the Chojeong Springs Bathhouse (초정약수원 탕). Once you’ve found the place, grab a towel and head for the bathing pools, some of which are hot and some cold. The cold spa pools contain the carbonated mineral water. Going back and forth from hot to cold water can help with blood circulation in the body. It may take a while to adjust to the cold water, but once you master the temperature, the experience is quite refreshing. The water is constantly being replenished, and you can actually drink it while bathing. The taste is a little sweet and piquant, and is particularly good for digestion. You can also load up a bottle or two from the mineral water tap outside the building and take it home with you. G e t t i n g Th e r e
Chojeong Springs Bathhouse is most easily reached by car. It’s a 30 minute drive from Cheongju in North Chungcheong Province. 111-5 Chojeong-ri, Naesu-eup, Cheongwon-gun, North Chungcheong Province. 5 am – 11 pm. Adults W6,000, children W3,000. 043-213-6060 Words by Y un Ta e - jun, shots by Evo Leota
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3rd - 4th vs SK Wyverns 6:30 pm 5th vs SK Wyverns 2 pm 6th vs Nexen Heroes 6:30 pm 7th - 8th Nexen Heroes 5 pm 13th vs Samsung Lions 6:30 pm 14th - 15th Samsung Lions 5 pm 24th - 26th SK Wyverns 6:30 pm 31st vs Samsung Lions 6:30 pm Ongoing Daesungsan Survival Game Field Head out to the wild to enjoy some exciting games and sports. Great for group outings and leadership training. Byeolgokri, Danyang-eup, Danyang-gun. 120 min. Adult W25,000 cbtour.net 043-423-5600
CHUNGCHEONG PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance Daejeon International Community Center dicc.or.kr 042-223-0789 Daejeon jungwonh@hotmail.com
Classes Yegok Natural Dye Workshop Okcheon-gun Dye clothing or make natural soap. yegok.co.kr 043-733-0978
Entertainment
Through May 15th Magok Temple Green Festival This 1000-year old temple houses the Daeungbojeon Pavilion, national treasure #801. Magok Temple in Gongju. tour.gongju.go.kr 041-856-7700
O-World Amusement Park Daejeon oworld.kr 042-580-4820 Kumdori Land Daejeon kumdori.co.kr 042-862-4000
Through May 31st International Flower Garden’s Vernal Flowers Festival Perfect for those who like wandering around looking at beautiful plants. Each visitor is given a flower. International Flower Garden at Asan. 10 am - 6 pm, W3,500 - W9,500. asan.go.kr/culture 041-544-0746
Alcohol Museum: Liquorium Chungju liquorium.com 043-855-7333 Gonam Shell Mound Museum Taean-gun Anmyeon Island museum.taean.go.kr 041-670-2337 Jincheon Bell Museum Jincheon-gun jincheonbell.net 043-539-3850 Korea Traditional Architecture Museum Yesan-gun English site: ktam.or.kr 041-337-5877
April 30th - May 1st Janggo Harbor Silchi Festival Along with tasting some of the Yellow Sea’s best silchi (Japanese icefish), you can participate in games and samulnori. Janggo Harbor at Dangjin-gun. dangjin.go.kr 011-9814-3466 May 15th - 17th Ji Yong Festival This festival is held in memory of well-known Korean poet and freedom fighter Jeong Ji-jong. Okcheongun. jiyong.or.kr/html/jiyong 043-730-3408 May 20th - Jun 3rd Seocheon Gwangeo and Domi Festival This festival offers fish lovers some fresh gwangeo (flatfish) and domi (snapper) at much cheaper prices than big cities. Maryangpo-gu, Seocheongun. seocheon.go.kr 041-950-4020 May 28th - June 4th Danyang Cheoljjuk Festival Royal azalea, or cheoljjuk in Korea, blooms all over Sobaek Mountain and looks rather like a pink jeogori (traditional jacket). Namhan River and Sobaek Mountain in Danyang-gun. event.dy21.net 043-420-3388
Sport & Fitness K-League Football All games held at Daejeon World Cup Stadium. May 8th Daejeon vs Incheon 3 pm May 22nd Daejeon vs Pohang 3 pm May 29th Daejeon vs Jeonbuk 3 pm KBO Baseball All games held at Daejeon Stadium, home of the Hanwha Eagles.
Museums
Hotels/Accommodations New Korea Hotel Asan 041-542-8151 Onyang Hot Spring Hotel Asan 041-545-2141 Cheonan Central Hotel Cheonan 041-564-9100 Yuseong Hotel Daejeon 042-822-9591 The Sky Blue Bird Seosan 011-382-1862 Golden Wave Taean 041-675-2008
Medical Services Konyang International Health Care Center Daejeon kihcc.kyuh.co.kr 042-600-9978 Sun Hospital Daejeon 042-220-8000
Restaurants/Supermarkets Gasan Korean, Cheonan 041-561-9500 Spain House Spanish, Cheonan 041-571-7474 Olive Farms Buffet, Cheongju 043-215-3311
Bars/Lounges/Pubs Rolling Stones Cheonan 041-562-9824 MJ Cheongju “MJ Bar” on Facebook. 043-273-8366 Road King Cheongju 010-8301-5936 Blue Moon Cheongwon 043-285-0399 Brickhouse Sports Bar & Grill Daejeon “The Daejeon Brickhouse” on Facebook, 010-9867-0921 J-Rock Daejeon 010-4564-7721 Santa Claus Daejeon “Santa Claus 2008” on Facebook, 042-825-5500 The Shisha House Daejeon “Welcome to the Shisha House” on Facebook. 042-825-4157 042-471-3373 Sponge Daejeon
GYEONGSANG discovery
A Four-Flavor Tour of Busan’s Temples W o rds and s h ot s by B r yc e W e ib l e y
Bursting blossoms and Buddha’s Birthday make this the most beautiful season to see Korea’s Buddhist temples. It’s easy to think that temples tend to look the same, but the unique geography of Busan’s mountains and coastline results in the temples developing their own distinct flavors. Here’s a brief guide to four of Busan’s finest.
The Grandaddy Beomeosa 범어사 First constructed by the Silla Kingdom in 678 CE, the name literally translates as “Nirvana Fish Temple.” Its location nestled among the trees on the slopes of Busan’s highest mountain betrays little of the temple’s proximity to the city. Cherry blossom season is the perfect time to visit. D i r e c t i o n s Subway line 1 to Beomeosa Stn. Take bus 90 towards Beomeosa or hail a taxi for approximately W3,000. Visit beomeosa.co.kr for information about its temple stay program.
Seaside Beauty
Exotic Adventure Seokbulsa 석불사 This well-hidden hermitage backs up against a large mountain chasm whose rock faces are covered with Buddhist carvings reminiscent of an Angkorian temple. From the hike in to squeezing through narrow caves in the chasm, Seokbulsa offers visitors a dose of adventure. D i r e c t i o n s Can be reached from the top of the Geumgang Park Cable Car. Follow the signs to Namman Village (남만마을). Pass through the village and continue down the trail. Follow the signs to Seokbulsa Entrance (석불사 입구).
Cool and Calm Haeunjeongsa 해운정사 The small but ornate Haeunjeongsa is off the tourist trail, a blessing for its few visitors as there never seems to be more than a few worshippers present. Interested in having a whole temple decorated with candle lanterns all to yourself? Visit this temple on the evening of Buddha’s Birthday and wonder no more! D i r e c t i o n s Subway line 2 to Haeundae Stn. Take exit 2 and continue walking. Take a left just past the large brown church at the main intersection in front of Enter 6 Mall. Continue walking straight until you see the large ornamental gate. 10 Magazine May 2011 | 61
GYEONGSANG
Yonggungsa 용궁사 Where the blue waves of the East Sea lap the rocky coast of Busan stands the one-of-a-kind Yonggungsa. Its spectacular seaside setting makes this temple one of Korea’s most gorgeous. The man-made elements, including an enormous Goddess of Mercy, are impressive as well. During Buddha’s Birthday, the exquisite panorama blends with brightly colored lanterns meeting the deepocean blue. D i r e c t i o n s Subway line 2 to Jangsan Stn. Hail a taxi for approximately W6,000.
GYEONGSANG CALENDAR Edi t or’ s P ick
May 8th Paul Potts and Kevin Kern in Concert Seongsan Art Hall in Changwon. 6 pm. W77,000 - W132,000. sungsanart.or.kr 1566-9621 May 19th Daegu City Choir: 30th Anniversary Concert Daegu Culture and Arts Center. 7:30 pm. artcenter.daegu.go.kr 053-606-6315 May 24th Jian Wang Cello Recital Hyundai Arts Center in Ulsan. 8 pm. W20,000 - W60,000. hhiarts.co.kr 052-202-6300
Family & Community
Dongseongno Festival May 20th - 22th
Family & Community
Dongseongno, located in the main commercial area in Daegu, is a popular meeting spot for Daegu youth and the site of the Dongseongno Festival, which has been bringing together city dwellers and visitors from other regions for the past 22 years. In recent years, the festival has gained national recognition for its quality, winning 1st prize in the category of culture and art in 2008 and 2009. Along with the usual street performances, this year’s special events include a sword dance and a martial arts demonstration. Also of interest is a reenactment of a tour by the Joseon provincial inspectors that involves a procession of 400 people in costume. Head to Dongseongno in Daegu to experience the region’s past and present all in one place. dsr.or.kr 053-423-3337
Art
GYEONGSANG
Through May 10th MBC Trick Art in Busan Bring a camera and get ready for some creative photography at this exhibit full of optical illusions and art parodies. 10 am - 7 pm. W12,000. mbctrickart.com/main.html 1544-0733 Through May 15th The History of Vietnam and the Nguyen Dynasty Displaying many artifacts from the Nguyen dynasty, the first united dynasty in Vietnam’s history. Gyeongju National Museum. Closed Mon. Weekdays 9 am - 6 pm, Sat 9 am - 9 pm, Holidays 9 am - 7 pm. gyeongju.museum.go.kr 054-740-7518 Through May 29th
in Gwanghwamun Square, Seoul. Gyeongnam Art Museum in Changwon. 10 am - 7 pm. W500 - W1,000. gam.go.kr 055-211-0333 Through June 12th The Purpose of Life Exhibition This exhibition attempts to reinterpret our everyday lives to find something extraordinary. Pohang Art Museum. 10 am - 6 pm. Free. poma.kr 054-250-6000
April 29th - May 1st Gwangwhamun Sonata: The Musical This is the love story between two men and a woman. Keimyung Art Center in Daegu. Fri 7:30 pm, Sat 3 & 7:30 pm, Sun 3 pm. 160 min. W55,000 - W110,000 kmuartcenter.kr 053-580-6600
Concerts Life and Nature: National Geographic Exhibition This collection of photos from National Geographic focus on the environment and patterns of human life. Daegu National Museum. Mon - Thu 10 am - 6 pm, Fri & Sat 10 am - 9 pm, Sun 10 am - 7 pm. W6,000 - W10,000. daegu.museum.go.kr 053-768-6051 Through May 29th Kim Young-Won Exhibition Kim is the well-known conceptual sculptor who designed the statue of King Sejong
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April 30th - May 8th Mungyeong Traditional Tea Bowl Festival Mungyeong, due east of Daejeon, is known as a center of traditional ceramic-making. sabal21.com 054-550-6395 May 5th - 8th Joseon Tongsinsa Festival Four hundred years ago, Tongsinsa were the ambassadors of the Joseon dynasty who went on a voyage of peace and exchange with Japan. See a reenactment of the Haesinje ritual, which was held to ensure a safe journey for the envoys. Mt. Yongdu Park and Gwangbokro near Jagalchi Stn. (Line 1, ex.7). Free. tongsinsa.com 051-744-7707 May 7th - 8th Juwang Rhododendron Festival Admire the sudallae (rhododendron) and experience making ceramics and hanji Korean traditional paper. Juwangsan National Park in Cheongsong-gun. 10 am - 5 pm. tour.cs.go.kr/main 054-873-0101 May 13th - 16th
Theater & Dance
May 27th - 29th Finding Kim Jong-uk: The Musical Busan MBC Lotte Art Hall. Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 7 pm, Sun 5 & 6 pm. W40,000 W50,000. mbcarthall.com 051-760-1357
© Bobby Haas / National Geographic
April 28th - May 8th Shilla Pottery Festival A good chance to make pottery by hand. Hwangseong Park Gymnasium in Gyeongju. gyeongjufestival.co.kr 054-779-6077~80
Ongoing Korean Music and Dance in Busan Performances every Saturday at the National Center for the Korean Traditional Performing Arts in Busan (National Gugak Center in Busan). W8,000. ncktpab.go.kr 051-811-0040 Woori Garak, Woori Munwha (Our Sound Our Culture) This ongoing event presents a combination of Korean traditional music and various traditional performances. Every Sunday at Mt. Yongdu Park. 3 pm. Free. bscf.or.kr 051-744-7707
Sports & Fitness May 4th - 8th Yacht & Boat Korea Sailboats, marine sports, fishing, and scuba diving--it’s all included at this expo. Jinhae-gun in Changwon. yachtkorea.or.kr 05-212-1338~9 2011 K-League Football May 5th Daegu vs Sungnam Daegu World Cup Stadium, 3 pm Sangju vs Gwangju Sangju Civic Stadium, 3 pm Pohang vs Incheon Pohang Steel Yard, 2 pm May 8th Busan vs Pohang at Asiad Main Stadium, 5 pm Sangju vs Seoul at Sangju Civic Stadium, 3 pm May 11th Busan vs Jeonnam at Asiad Main Stadium, 7 pm Sangju vs Gangwon at Sangju Civic Stadium, 3 pm May 15th Pohang vs Jeonbuk at Pohang Steel Yard, 3 pm Ulsan vs Jeju at Ulsan Munsu Football Stadium, 5 pm May 22nd Ulsan vs Sungnam at Ulsan Munsu Football Stadium, 5 pm May 28th Busan vs Gwangju at Asiad Main Stadium, 7 pm Sangju vs Gangwon at Sangju Civic Stadium, 7 pm Pohang vs Daegu at Pohang Steel Yard, 3 pm 2011 Baseball All Busan games held at Sajik Stadium, home of the Lotte Giants. 3rd - 4th vs Samsung Lions 6:30 pm 5th vs Samsung Lions 2 pm 10th vs Nexen Heroes 5 pm 11th - 12th vs Nexen Heroes 6:30 pm 13th vs KIA Tigers 6:30 pm 14th - 15th vs KIA Tigers 5 pm 24th - 26th vs Samsung Lions 6:30 pm 31st vs Nexen Heroes 6:30 pm All Daegu games held at Daegu Field, home of the Samsung Lions. 1st vs Hanwha Eagles 5 pm 6th vs LG Giants 6:30 pm 7th - 8th vs LG Giants 5 pm 10th vs SK Wyverns 5 pm 11th -12th vs SK Wyverns 6:30 pm 17th - 19th vs Nexen Heroes 6:30 pm 20th vs Doosan Bears 6:30 pm 21st - 22nd vs Doosan Bears 5 pm 27th vs SK Wyverns 6:30 pm 28th - 29th vs SK Wyverns 5 pm
Dine & Drink Yeongju Seonbi Cultural Festival Seonbi Village and Sosuseowon in Yeongju. seonbifestival.com 054-639-6065 May 26th - 29th Eumseong Pumba Festival This festival resurrects the pumba, itinerant street performers from the Joseon Dynasty. Eumseong-gun. pumba21.com 043-873-2241 May 27th - 29th Seongju Life Cultural Festival Seongju-gun. sjlife.or.kr 054-930-6066 May 28th - 29th Youngju Sobaeksan Rhododendron Festival Sobaek mountain in Yeongju. tour.yeongju.go.kr 054-639-6064
Education & Conferences May 3rd - 5th 2011 Global Transportech Convention Center CECO in Changwon. transportech.org 02-3460-7221
May 4th - 8th Hadong Wild Tea Cultural Festival See the Jeolla calendar for an article about tea festivals this month. 10 am - 9 pm. festival.hadong.go.kr 055-880-2375~9 May 4th - 11th Sancheong Oriental Medicinal Herb Festival Learn more about the medicinal effects of herbs harvested on Jiri Mountain. Next to the Gyeongho River in Sancheong-gun. scherb.or.kr/main 055-970-6789 May 14th - 15th Bomulseom “Treasure Island” Anchovy Festival You can have a taste of raw myeolchi (anchovies) as well as roasted dishes. Mijo Harbor in Namhae-gun. tour.namhae.go.kr 055-860-8601 May 19th - 22nd Bomulseom “Treasure Island” Garlic Festival Held at Treasure Island: Garlic Land, definitely on the short list for weirdest museum in Korea. Activities include harvesting garlic! tour.namhae.go.kr 055-860-8601
GYEONGSANG DIRECTORY
Gyeongsang Foreigner Assistance Busan Foundation for Int’l Activities bfia.or.kr 051-898-3740, 051-865-0133 Geoje Foreign Resident Association gfra.net 055-687-9332 Ulsan Global Center 052-229-2810 Ulsan Online ulsanonline.com
Education Ayurveda Yoga Academy Certification course for would-be yoga teachers in Daegu. Sat 10 am – 7 pm. Call Yatren at 011-9547-5181 Yoga Classes Each 1st and 3rd Sunday from 12:30 – 1:30 pm. Buy the Book Cafe in Daegu. megan.deutsch@gmail. com 010-7794-1218
Open weekends. buythebookcafe@ yahoo.com Café Francesco Italian Italian cuisine and good coffee. Near Rodeo Street. 053-252-9625 Dijon French Up-market French and Mediterranean cuisine. 053-422-2426 Hami Mami’s American One of Daegu’s best brunches. 50m from the US base. 8 am – 10 pm. 053-475-5242
drinks from the Seoul location, but right on Haeundae Beach. 051-746-7913 Daegu Ping Bar Great drinks, a pool table, and music upon request. Samdeok Catholic Church. 7 pm - 5 am. withhyk@hanmail.net 053-422-7708 Jinju Soundgarden Behind Gyeongsang National University. soundgarden. cyworld.com, zakkie@hanmail.net 055-753-2248, 010-6478-2248 (owner)
Religious Services Baekangro Church Busan 051-898-3740 Catholic Center Busan bccenter.or.kr 051-441-6403
Hongbeopsa Temple 051-508-3470 Busan busanbuddhism.com/hannarae Hosanna Church Busan hosanna21.com 051-209-0191 Podowon Church Busan 051-333-3736 Shipyungro Church Busan spr.or.kr 051-220-0200 Sooyeongno Church Busan 051-740-4500 Pusan University of Foreign Studies Busan 051-640-3445 Islamic Mosque Busan busanislam.or.kr 051-518-9991 Okpo Joonang Presbyterian Geoje Island 010-2586-7520, 010-3873-1652 Sumgim Presbyterian Church Geoje Island sumgim.org 017-577-3096
Hotels/Accommodations 4 – 5 Star Hotels Busan Lotte Hotel 051-810-1000 Novotel Ambassador 051-743-1234 Seacloud 051-933-1000 Daegu Novotel Ambassador 053-664-1101 Hostels Busan Arpina 051-740-3228 Zen Backpackers 010-8722-1530
2nd Floor Restaurant 3rd Floor Sports Lounge
Restaurants Busan Ganga Indian Opposite Haeundae Beach. ganga.co.kr 051-740-6670
053-423-4048
GYEONGSANG
Gecko’s Western Perched on lovely Haeundae Beach at the Pale de CZ, you can get all of that authentic Western food you’re used to back home, and you’ll find bartenders who know how to mix a real margarita. 051-747-3069 Il Sole Italian Quality food with a great view of Haeundae Beach. 051-747-4253 Kebabistan Russian Uzbeki restaurant serving kebabs, soups and stews. Busan Station. 051-581-4050 Sunset Lounge American Drinks, Western food and fun delivered next to Haeundae. 051-742-2959 Daegu Berkeley Italian Hof Street. 053-421-8577 Buy the Book Western This bookstore and café is your source for free yoga, theater, and parties. Downtown Daegu.
The Holy Grill Western Owned and operated by Canadians, the Grill provides expats with fantastic sandwiches, burgers, Tex-Mex and breakfast in a chilled-out environment that feels more like a lounge than a burger joint. Move up to the 3rd floor to catch major sporting events. 053-423-4048 Leo Chow Mexican A decent selection of burritos and tacos. 053-255-7111 Maya Indian Gyeongbuk University. 053-214-1916 Samarkland Russian Daegu station. 053-252-4021 Siji Taco Mexican Spicy tacos at competitive prices 053-791-5050 South St. Western Philly cheesesteaks and cold cuts in Suseong-gu. blog. naver.com/southst105 053-768-7867 Gumi Waegook Cook American Gumi’s original foreign-owned and operated restaurant, serving steaks, hamburgers, seafood, pastas, and German cuisine. waegookcook.com 054-444-3775 cafe.daum.net/metalboys 011-9599-8370
Bars/Lounges/Pubs Busan Aligote Wines, cheese platters, and excellent service. Haeundae. 6 pm – 3 am. aligote-busan.com 051-731-3322 Basement Open mic nights on Tuesdays and parties galore. 011-9294-2391 Fuzzy Navel Great drinks and great Mexican food as well. 011-1757-6349 The HQ Bar Kyungsung’s only foreignerowned bar with sports and dart games. busankart@yahoo.com Rock ‘n’ Roll House Western-style bar with darts and pool and a great view of Haeundae. 051-742-5553 Sosa Bar A cozy latin bar close to Pusan National University. 051-513-0070 Wolfhound The same classic food and
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Art Through May 22nd The Calligraphy of Jeonbuk This exhibition will look into the flow of the calligraphy of Jeonbuk. Your spirit will grow calm and your mind clear with this beautiful calligraphy. Jeonju National Museum. 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Monday. Free. jeonju.museum.go.kr 063-223-5651
Theater & Dance May 14th - 15th Fairy Tale Journey with Pororo Pororo the little animated penguin is a favorite with kids. This musical is held in a special hall for children so they can get a closer look at the characters. Jeollabukdo Educational and Cultural Center in Jeonju. 60 min. W25,000. ticket.interpark.com 063-270-1635
Film
The Long and Winding Trail up Moak Mountain dis c ov er y
JEOLLA
Look southwest from any high point in Jeonju and you can’t fail to notice Moak Mountain. At 793 meters (2602 feet) and crowned by a distinctive radio mast installation, it’s the area’s highest and best-known mountain. There are several paths to the top of Moak Mountain, but the most popular and easily accessible climb is the Geumsan Temple route. Start at the paved road behind the temple before breaking off on the trail that climbs the shoulder of the mountain. It’s not a difficult climb, and there are steps to help you up many of the steepest sections, but it can be quite long and tiring. Many times en route, you’ll be convinced the peak is just over the next crest – only to find the path takes another turn and continues climbing! Take a deep breath of fresh mountain air and press on, because the view across Jeonju from the summit is impressive: on a clear day you can see all the way to the West Sea (Yellow Sea). Geumsan Temple itself is well worth a visit. The main hall was built in 1635 and is Korea’s only three-story wooden temple. It escaped destruction by the Japanese and remains one of Korea’s most impressive temple buildings. Another hall contains a collection of hundreds of individually painted figures, representing followers of the Buddha’s teachings. May sees the courtyard strung with thousands of beautiful paper lanterns to celebrate Buddha’s Birthday, and a program of events takes place over the holiday weekend (May 7th – 8th). Getting there
Take green city bus no. 79 from downtown Jeonju. You can pick it up at the stop across from Starbucks on Paldal-ro. Geumsan Temple is the last stop. Buses also run from Gimje, which is on the KTX Honam line, about 2 hours from Seoul. Words and shots by A n dy C lay 64 | 10 Magazine May 2011
April 28th - May 6th 12th Jeonju International Film Festival JIFF will kick off with Asghar Farhadi’s Nader and Simin, A Separation and continue with dozens of other fascinating films. Movies will be screened at a number of venues in Jeonju. The excellent English site has all the info you’ll need on locations, subtitles, and more. W5,000 - W10,000. jiff.or.kr 063-288-5433
Family & Community Through May 8th Gochang Cheongbori Festival Photographers are frequent visitors to the picturesque cheongbori (“green barley”) fields in Nongwon. Hagwon Agricultural Park in Gochang-gun. chungbori.gochang.go.kr 063-564-9897
April 29th - May 10th Hampyeong Butterfly Festival Hampyeong’s Butterfly Festival has been selected as one of Korea’s finest festivals. This year, the theme is “Butterflies = Hope.” Hampyeong Expo Park. W1,000 - W7,000. Register by April 22nd. hampyeong.jeonnam.kr 061-322-0011 April 30th - May 1st Yeongrang Literary Festival A tribute to Yoon-sik Kim (pen name Moran, meaning peony), a representative 20th century poet. Held at the Yeongrang Birthplace in Gangjingun. Free. gangjin.go.kr 061-434-0103 May 3rd - 8th Damyang Bamboo Festival Korean villagers long ago would spend May 13th planting bamboo shoots. This festival is held in Damyang-gun, just north of Gwangju, in memory of this nearly forgotten custom. Events begin with the Bamboo Expo at the Damyang Sports Complex (5/3) and continues with a “well-being walk” and even a display of bamboo banzai (5/3 - 5/8). bamboofestival.co.kr 061-380-3151 May 3rd - 6th Geobukseon Festival The geobukseon was the so-called turtle ship designed by Chungmugong Yi Sun-sin, the famous Korean admiral who beat back a Japanese 16th-century invasion. This festival commemorates Yi Sunsin’s accomplishments with martial arts performances and traditional cooking contests at Yi Chungmugong Square in Yeosu. festival.yeosu.go.kr 061-690-7672 May 5th - 8th Jangseong Hong Gildong Festival Hong Gil-dong, the Korean equivalent of “John Doe,” is the main character of the earliest Korean novel written in hangul. This festival is held at the theme park inspired by him, located in Jangseong-gun. http:// tour2.jangseong.go.kr 061-393-1989
May 4th - 8th
Top Tea Festivals Seeing how the tea plant is cultivated will forever change your attitude about the drink. Flip back to p. 24 for our cover story on tea or read on for this month’s tea festivals. Boseong Green Tea Festival If you want to trace the beginnings of the modern-day tea industry in Korea, look no further than Boseong, which is the biggest producer of the stuff. The place is perfect for cultivating tea trees: the valley’s topography is a mix of sun and shade, and it’s bordered by the sea and rivers. At this festival, you can not only try and buy Boseong tea but also experience making tea, cookies and soap. Other events include a tea exhibition with related products for sale and a number of performances. Head to the green tea fields at Chasori Park, a 15-minute bus ride from Boseong Station in Boseong-gun. dahyang.boseong.go.kr 061-850-5205 Hadong Wild Tea Cultural Festival Hadong is notable as the location of Korea’s first tea plantation, and it continues to produce tea using traditional methods, not machine-based production. It has also won Korea’s grand festival prizes three years in a row. Hadong’s tea festival is composed of four zones: Green Tea Valley, Slow Life, Happy Family, and Fancy Zone. Each zone has different activities, so you can have all sorts of fun as you take a sip of Hadong’s delicious tea! Evends held at Ssanggye Temple, Hwagae Market, and other sites in Hadong-gun. festival.hadong.go.kr 055-880-2375
JEOLLA CALENDAR May 5th - 8th
e di t or’ s pick JEOLLA PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance
Jeonju Hanji Cultural Festival Hanji is a kind of traditional Korean paper and is written on with an old-fashioned brush. Learn more about hanji crafts and calligraphy at this festival, held at the Jeonju Hanok Village. jhanji.or.kr 063-271-2503 May 6th - 8th Wando Jang Bo-go Festival Called the “king of the sea,” Jang Bo-go was the great Shilla admiral in the 9th century AD who tamed the Yellow Sea. Events include a maritime parade, street theater inspired by Jang Bo-go and lots of fun activities. Located at Wando Beach Park and the Jang Bo-go Memorial in Wandogun. tour.wando.go.kr 061-550-5411 May 6th - 10th Chunhyang Festival Chunhyang, the ideal of the faithful woman, has appeared in countless songs, movies, and plays. Chunhyang and her lover Mongryong first supposedly met in May. The festival is held at Gwanghallu Park and Chunhyang Park in Namwon. chunhyang.org 063-620-4861 May 7th - 8th Hwangtohyeon Donghak Festival The Donghak Revolution was incited by oppression and the growing influence of Japan and China at the end of the 19th century. Hwangtohyeon battlefield in Jeongeup. 9 am. donghak.or.kr 063538-1894
Education Ongoing GIC Talks Take advantage of English lectures by professors, writers, and diplomats that promote communication and mutual understanding among Koreans and international residents. Topics include a wide range of subjects such as culture, history, politics, and art. Gwangju International Center. Sat 2:30 – 4 pm. Closed holidays. gic.or.kr 062-226-2733
KBO Baseball All games held at Gwangju Stadium, home of the KIA Tigers May 1st vs Lotte Giants 5 pm May 10th vs Doosan Bears 5 pm May 11th - 12th vs Doosan Bears 6:30 pm May 17th - 19th vs LG Twins 6:30 pm May 27th vs Lotte Giants 6:30 pm May 28th - 29th vs Lotte Giants 5 pm 2011 K-League May 1st Gwangju vs Daejeon Gwangju World Cup Stadium, 3 pm May 4th Jeonnam vs Ulsan Dragons Stadium, 7 pm May 7th Jeonbuk vs Ulsan Jeonju World Cup Stadium, 5 pm May 11th Gwangju vs Ulsan Gwangju World Cup Stadium, 3 pm May 14th Jeonnam vs Daejeon Dragons Stadium, 5 pm May 21st Jeonbuk vs Gangwon Jeonju World Cup Stadium, 5 pm May 22nd Gwangju vs Incheon Gwangju World Cup Stadium, 3 pm 28th Jeonnam vs Ulsan Dragons Stadium, 7 pm
Religious Services Antioch Presbyterian Church Jeonju andiok.kr 063-274-3228 Iri Joongang Church Iksan 0 63-851-4311 Musang Temple Muan-gun 042-841-6084
Museums Gochang Dolmen Museum 9 am – 5 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, teens W2,000, children W1,000. gcdolmen.go.kr 063-560-2576 Iksan Jewel Museum 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. jewelmuseum.go.kr 063-859-4641 Jeonju Oriental Medicine Cultural Center 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. hanbangcenter.com 063-232-2500 Jeonju Traditional Alcohol Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Free. urisul.net 063-287-6305 Jeonju Traditional Culture Center jt.or.kr 063-280-7045 Mokpo Ceramic Livingware Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. doja.mokpo.go.kr 0 61-270-8480 Mokpo Natural Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. museum.mokpo.go.kr 061-274-3655
Hotels/Accommodations Gwangju Youth Hostel 062-943-4378 Ramada Plaza Gwangju ramadagwangju.com 062-717-7000
Radio TBS eFM Gwangju FM 98.7 US Armed Forces Network Gunsan AM 1440/FM 88.5 Gwangju FM 88.5
Restaurants/Supermarkets First Nepal Restaurant firstnepal.com 062-225-8771 Tequilaz Gwangju’s first Mexican cantina serves up your south-of-the-border favorites with magical margaritas and, of course, killer tequilas. tequilaz.com Underground Grocers Gwangju This foreigner-run food shop has those hardto-find cheeses, taco shells and other delicacies you crave. 062-232-2626
Live Music Venues Bars/Lounges/Pubs Art & Travel Cafe Jeonju Open mic nights every Wednesday from 9 pm. Facebook group, 011-9437-0208 Deepin Jeonju Popular expat bar with Texas Holdem on Sundays. 019-9646-1028 Led Zeppelin Art Space Jeonju Hosts underground bands both expat and Korean. cafe.daum.net/k250073 018-607-6321 Radio Star Jeonju Under the 7-11 in Junghwasan-dong. 011-9444-9609 Speakeasy Gwangju The fun never stops at this fantastic bar owned and operated by honest Irishman Derrek Hannon. 010-4713-3825 San Antonio Latin Bistro Suncheon Suncheon surprises with this Latinthemed restaurant and bar. Facebook group, pyroz@hotmail.com 061-724-2234
Remembering the Gwangju Democratization Movement In Gwangju, the spring is a time of cherry blossoms, jubilant outdoor festivals and lovely weather. The beauty of the season, however, is shadowed by the dark memory of an atrocity still vivid in the minds of many residents. May 12th – 21st
Family & Community
This May 18th marks the 31st anniversary of a brutal chapter in the history of the peninsula. After General Chun DooHwan staged a military coup in 1980, the citizens of Gwangju, and in particular the teachers and students, led prodemocracy protests demanding freedom of the press and other rights. When the army faced off with the citizens, the aftermath was horrendous. The official figures state that 144 civilians, 22 soldiers and 4 police officers were killed, though others claim that the death toll was much higher. Since then, the tragedy has become an international emblem for the fight against dictatorship and oppression. Every year during the month of May, a number of remembrance events and celebrations of freedom are held in Gwangju. 5/12 Literature Award at Daedong Hall, 518 Cultural Center. 5/13 – 5/15 May Culture Festival around Memorial Park (street plays, performances) 5/14 – 5/15 May 18th Youth Cultural Festival held downtown across from the former Jeonnam Provincial Office. 5/16 – 5/18 Global Human Rights Network (International Forum) at Kim Dae-Jung Convention Centre. 5/18 Gwangju Prize for Human Rights Award at Daedong Hall, 518 Cultural Center 5/19 Celebration concert for Gwangju Prize for Human Rights at Minju Hall, 518 Cultural Center. 5/21 May 18th Marathon near Sangmu Park
Don’t let the shadow of history deter you from visiting one of the most culturally unique places in the country. By paying proper homage to those who have died, we can better appreciate the value of our own freedom and return with a deeper respect for Korea’s heritage. For more details on the events, refer to gwangjublog.com and eng.518.org. Words by Set h Pev ey, shots by M ark Eaton 10 Magazine May 2011 | 65
JEOLLA
Sport & Fitness
Gwangju International Center gwangjuic.or.kr 062-226-1050 Gwangju Blog gwangjublog.com Inside Jeonju insidejeonju.com The Jeonju Hub thejeonjuhub.com
Performances Ongoing
JEJU ISLAND Theme Park
DIS COV ER Y
EcoLand Forest Train All Aboard for Family Fun
Jeju offers hundreds of attractions for tourists and locals alike. With so many options, it’s difficult to decide where to spend your time and money, especially if you’re planning a family trip. For a leisurely, kid-friendly day out, hop on the Forest Train at EcoLand, one of Jeju’s newest theme parks (and also the site of a popular golf course). Located near Gyorae, the park features brightly painted, old-fashioned trains that circle a track in the Gotjawal forest. If you understand Korean, you’ll learn all about the forest’s unique properties. If not, just sit back and enjoy the scenery. Trains take off from the Main Station at frequent intervals and make four stops.
Jump In its second decade, this popular martial arts comic show shows no signs of slowing. Halla Art Hall in Cheju Halla Collage. Tue-Fri 8pm; Sat 4, 8pm; Sun, holiday 8pm, Closed Mon. W40,000 W50,000. hijump.co.kr 064-749-0550
Stop One: Eco Bridge Station
Disembark and walk across a large, picturesque lake via a long wooden bridge that leads you to the next station. Stop Two: Lake Side Station
In addition to a huge Dutch-style windmill, this stop offers the most unique attraction at the park: a hovercraft. Watch it take off from dry land then skim and spin along the top of the lake, or for an extra fee, take a ride in it yourself (W7,000 - W9,000). Stop Three: Picnic Garden Station
This stop, designed especially for kids, features life-sized teddy bear topiaries, swings, numerous playhouses, and a huge playing field, complete with soccer balls and goals. Stop Four: Green Tea and Rose Garden Station
At the time of writing, the train did not stop at this station. G e t t i n g Th e r e
JEJU ISLAND
Start at the terminal in either Jeju City or Seogwipo City and ask for the bus to EcoLand (에코랜드) in Gyorae. Get off at the Gyorae Recreational Forest (교래 자연휴양림) and walk about 1 kilometer to the park entrance. 9 am to 6 pm. Adults W11,000, teens W9,000, children W8,000. Jeju residents get a discount. ecolandjeju.co.kr 064-802-8000 Words and shots by A ngela Jacobus
Nanta Nanta, the non-verbal performance that got started ten years ago, is a feast for the ears that turns ordinary kitchen pots and pans into a rhythm section. Jeju Media Center in Jeju City (064-727-7800). 90 min. Sun 8 pm, Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 pm, 8 pm. W40,000 - W50,000. nanta.i-pmc.co.kr 1544-1555 May 7th Paul Potts and Kevin Kern This concert provides guests with the exciting pairing of Paul Potts, a recent winner in “Britain’s Got Talent,” and Kevin Kern, a legally blind pianist known for his inspirational new age albums. Jeju Art Center. 7 pm. W77,000 W132,000. arts.jeju.go.kr 1544-7579 May 17th - 18th The University of Alabama Singers With John Ratledge conducting, these 45 talented singers will be performing a wide variety of tunes, ranging from moving spirituals to familiar classics. Jeju Art Center. 7:30 pm. W33,000 - W55,000. arts.jeju.go.kr 064-753-2209
Family & Community May 6th - 8th Gapa Island Green Barley Festival Travel to tiny Gapa Island, located just off the southwestern tip of Jeju Island, to sample local products and walk through the gorgeous barley fields. culture.jeju.go.kr 064-760-4081 May 14th Jeju Open Mic Meet some of the most talented and creative expats living on Jeju at this semi-monthly event. Haebyun Concert. 8 - 11 pm. Search on Facebook or email frank_the_cowboy@hotmail.com.
Sport & Fitness 2011 K-League May 8th Jeju vs Daegu 3 pm May 21st Jeju vs Jeonnam 3 pm Both at Jeju World Cup Stadium.
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Kimnyoung Maze Park The challenge is the thrill of the search and the reward the taste of success in ringing the bell! San 16, Kimnyoung-ri, Gujwa-eup, Jejusi, Jeju-do. jejumaze.com 064-782-9266
Restaurants Bagdad Cafe Indian. Delicious, authentic Indian food made from local ingredients in a gorgeous atmosphere. Near City Hall in Jeju City 064-757-8182 Dom Jang Japanese. Spectacular sushi in several locations all over the island. The best atmosphere is in Jungmun. 064-738-2550
Island Gecko’s Western. A varied menu of terrific Western food, plus maybe the best cocktails and service on the island. The BBQ nights every weekend will blow you away with ribeye steak, sausages, and more for only W19,000. Jungmun. geckosterrace.com 064-739-0845 The Plate This modern bistro serves up a great American-style hamburger along with other Thai dishes. 064-746-8008 Zapata’s Mexican. Find it behind Burger King near City Hall in Jeju City. 064-722-3369
Bars/Lounges/Pubs Boris Brewery The brewer at the successful Modern Time Brewpub is opening up another shop with beer and Spanish sangria based on a 30-year-old recipe. 064-726-4141 Bull’s Darts Bar As the name suggests, they’ve got five dart boards, a variety of games, and even a women’s dart league. Near City Hall in Jeju City. 064-759-5559 Modern Time With locations at Grand Hotel Sageori and City Hall, this microbrewery provides beer lovers with some of the best homemade ales in Korea. 064-748-4180
NETWORKING CALENDAR E dited by J i sun M oon and dav i d carru t h
Saturday, May 28th
The Queen’s Birthday Ball
Photos taken at Linked Seoul’s Wine Down Wednesday, which took place on April 13th, 2011, at Crystal Sky Lounge in Gangnam.
Tuesday, May 3rd AMCHAM Spring Blossom Networking Night Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul, the Festa Bar. 6:30 pm - 9 pm. AMCHAM members W55,000, non-members W65,000. amchamkorea.org 02-6201-2200 Tuesday, May 3rd BASS Catch-up Coffee Starmoon Coffee at Insadong. 10 am - 12 pm. RSVP to events@britishseoul.com, britishseoul.com
Thursday, May 5th SIWA Newcomers’ Meeting Seoul Club. 10 am. W10,000. siwapage.com Wednesday, May 11th BIWA Monthly Luncheon Novotel at Haeundae Beach. 10 am - 2 pm. BIWA members W30,000, guests W35,000. RSVP to bentsen@kornet.net. biwa-korea.com Wednesday, May 11th Asia Sociey Networking Night Pierre’s Bar, Lotte Hotel Seoul. RSVP by May 6th at askoreacenter@gmail.com. asiasociety.org 02-759-7806
Tuesday, May 17th Asia Society Monthly Luncheon: Mexico, The Country with Many Faces Charlotte Suite at the Lotte Hotel Seoul. Students & press W15,000, members W30,000, non-members W40,000. Noon - 2 pm. RSVP by Friday, May 13th. askoreacenter@gmail.com Tuesday, May 17th ANZA Global Cafe Paris Grill Bar and Cafe at the Grand Hyatt Hotel in Seoul. 10 am - noon. Members W10,000, non-members W15,000. anzakorea.com Wednesday, May 18th SIWA Coffee Morning Grand Ambassador Hotel. 9:30 am - 11:30 am. Members W14,000, non-members W19,000. siwapage.com Wednesday, May 18th Wine Down Wednesday with Linked Seoul Location TBC. linkedseoul.org Friday, May 20th KGCCI German White Asparagus Dinner Grand Hyatt Seoul. 5:30 pm. W110,000. RSVP by May 17th. korea.ahk.de 02-3780-4662
Tuesday, May 24th BASS Monthly Coffee The Seoul Club. 10 am - 12 pm. Members W10,000, non-members W14,000. britishseoul.com Wednesday, May 25th BIWA Monthly Coffee Mornings Starbucks, Pale d’Cz Building at Haeundae Beach. 9:30 am - 11:30 am. biwa-korea.com Friday, May 27th AWC Farewell Luncheon Location TBC. awckorea-seoul.org Friday, May 27th CWC Victoria Day Backyard BBQ Canadian Embassy (Schofield Hall). 5:30 pm - 9 pm. W15,000. RSVP to cwckorea@live.com AMCHAM American Chamber of Commerce ANZA Australia and New Zealand Association of Korea AWC American Women’s Club BASS British Association of Seoul BIWA Busan International Women’s Association CWC Canadian Women’s Club FKCCI French Chamber of Commerce and Industry in Korea KGCCI Korean-German Chamber of Commerce and Industry SIWA Seoul Int’l Women’s Association 10 Magazine May 2011 | 67
NETWORKING CALENDAR
Tuesday, May 3rd SIWA Zen (Korean Buddism Temple) Cooking Omokyo Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). 9:40 am - 12 pm. SIWA Members W30,000, non-members W35,000. siwapage.com, laliberta@gmail.com
Thursday, May 12th FKCCI Café du Commerce Novotel Ambassador Gangnam. 6:30 pm - 8:45 pm. W24,000. fkcci.com
One of the highlights of this year’s gala season is the Queen’s Birthday Ball (QBB), organized by the British Association of Seoul. The theme of the ball is a closely-guarded secret which is only revealed when the doors open at 7 pm on the night. What’s not a secret is the gourmet dinner, live band, DJ, dancing, raff le, and live auction planned for the night. In addition to all the entertainment, the ball is also an excellent opportunity to support worthy Korean charities, including a home for the elderly in Pocheon. Held at the Grand Hyatt Hotel, Seoul. 6:30 pm. W200,000 for BASS members, W220,000 for non-members. RSVP at bassqbbseoul@yahoo.co.uk.
The Kids Are All Right Words by A dam Boot h e , I llustration by Pat r ick Volz
K
oreans know how to party. You’ve seen large groups of them milling around. Up all night, roaming the streets in a frenzied haze, looking for whatever stimulus is the nearest and newest. They have little regard for the people around them and do whatever they please. They have few rules and fewer cares. Reckless. Uninhibited. They are truly living life. Of course, this isn’t true for all Koreans. I’m just referring to the wildest of the bunch – elementary students. Korean kids are off the chain. Now, I’m not suggesting that kids should be chained
68 | 10 Magazine May 2011
up, but maybe a soft leash would be appropriate, something with a decent tether. You know, for their own safety. Kids run around, happily oblivious to things that they should notice, like buses. I can’t count how many times I’ve seen a few kids run up on me late at night, parents not in sight. Part of me wants to scold them. Part of me wants to counsel them. Mostly, I just want them to calm down. But, I don’t do any of that. Instead, I look at my watch and mutter something about a bedtime. I’m not even sure there is a Korean word for bedtime. Kids never sleep. As far as I can tell, they just go until their batteries
run out, figuratively or literally. If they are bored and there is nothing to do, they might sleep a little just for a change. Nothing can stop them, certainly not their parents. I am all for hands-off parenting, but sometimes kids take it too far. In waiting rooms or subways, the kids crawl over whatever they want. They touch everything and have no problem approaching strangers. If they were puppies, they would get swatted. Perhaps the parenting style should be a little more hands on—more specifically, open hands on the kids’ rears. It seems that kids basically do whatever they want. They are tyrants over their parents at this age, but their tyranny is sanctioned by their subjects’ love. Every little angel is the smartest, cutest and most innocent thing in the world in their parents’ eyes. They can do no wrong and make no mistakes. All that comes crashing down right around the time that grades start to become important, which, in Korea’s case, is middle school. Freedom? Gone. Fun? Gone? Wonder? Enthusiasm? The joy of youth? All gone. It’s a shame that Korean kids get all their freedom and fun in elementary school and all the stress and worry in secondary school. Western kids generally get it spread out evenly and mixed together all throughout childhood. This mixture dilutes it all so that nothing ever seems that terrible. Our ups and down are less up and a lot less down. Koreans have the same balance, but it’s more of a two-stage process. The carefree years come first and the stress of exams and entering a good school comes later. These years go by too fast, so I think we should encourage kids to feel good, even when they’re being bad. When I see kids running wild, I don’t feel annoyed. I want to egg them on. Hey, run a little faster. You have to stretch your legs now before you get stuck behind a desk. Stay up as late as you want. In a few years you will be forced to stay awake, agonizing over learning stuff that the average American community college student doesn’t know. Scream, laugh, play. This is your last chance until you finish high school and hit the legal drinking age. Then the process begins again.