10 Magazine 2012 Ocober

Art • Theater • Concerts • Film • Community • Fitness • Dine & Drink • Nightlife • TRAVEL

Korea awaits! • October 2012 VOL. 5 NO. 1

외국인의 한국생활 노하우

Plus: A new 10 Magazine: seven new columns, the country’s best coffee shops, a culinary tour of Osaka, a trip back in time to Namhansanseong, and 271 things to do this month (including Halloween) in our Calendar Printed using 100% soy ink.

October 2012 vol. 5 No. 1

20 Expats You Need to Know 24

This month, we reveal our first annual list of 20 expats you need to know. Turn to page 24 to find out who are Korea’s foreign-born trailblazers in 2012.

4 From the Editor / Shot of Korean

20 A Taste of Korea Bindaetteok

6 Contributors / Blog of the Month / Korea by the Numbers

22 Asian Destination Eating Osaka

8

Nationwide Calendar 42 Movies Abraham Lincoln, Vampire Hunter; Doomsday Book; 3-Iron 43 TV Innocent Man on KBS

Photo of the Month

10 Dating / SNS

44 Music

11 10 Online / Overheard

Regional Calendar

12 Obsessions 14 History It’s in the mail…

Or is it?

30 Korean Destination Namhansanseong 34 Hotel & Resort News 36 Expat News 37 Comings and Goings 38 Gastronomic News

16 Feature Korea’s Best Coffee Shops 2 | 10 Magazine October 2012

39 In the Kitchen Chef Hyun-seok Choi of Elbon the Table 72 A Happy Ending

46 Food Review L’Angolo: The Most Romantic Italian in Seoul?

The Black Seeds, The Solutions, KARA 44 Books Gulag Peninsula 45 Tech & Gear Game Discount Mall and Vingle

63 Gangwon Discovery Yangyang Salmon and ICCN

48 Art Steve McCurry: Between Darkness and Light 58 Seoul Discovery Halloween in Korea

64 Gyeonggi Event Jarasum Jazz Festival 67 Jeolla Discovery Four Ways to Pig Out in Jeonju 70 Jeju Discovery Island Adventures

Shot by Jessica Hollingsworth

Cover Story

And So Begins Year 5

CEO

Sang-tae Kim sangtaekim@10mag.com

General Manager

Kyounghee Lim kl@10mag.com Jooyeon Heiden finance@10mag.com Dami Kang dk@10mag.com

Accounting Sales/Promotion

W

hat a ride this is. Being an entrepreneur has made for the most exhilarating yet harrowing four years of my life. I try to stay level, to keep from letting my moods swing with the constant ups and downs of business, but it’s not easy. Every day is filled with new challenges and new rewards, and it’s a constant battle to get better and deliver more for our readers.

You hold in your hands our latest effort to deliver more.

When we started in October of 2008, it took us about a year of tweaking to come up with a design we were happy with, but we’ve stayed consistent since then, keeping it easy for you to find exactly what you’re looking for in 10. After four years though, it’s time to mix it up a little. To start off our fifth year of existence, we’ve done a major overhaul of 10 Magazine, giving you a sleeker, more readable design, some fun new content and an even better Calendar.

There are some great newcomers to the 10 team who are helping us become better than ever. Photo editor Aja Nuzzi and photographer Jessica Hollingsworth are helping us bring you even more amazing shots and beautiful layouts. Andy Tebay will now be keeping us up on the latest Korean startups while Chase Kang and Rhiannon May will be sharing relationship advice for you singles out there. Alex Sutcliffe has taken up the mantle as our Chungcheong Calendar Editor. Flickr in Seoul will bedazzle us with amazing photography every month from here on out too. And it’s all being overseen by our new Production Editor, Sonia Hensley, who never ceases to impress. Thank you all.

But as I do every year at this time, I have to thank the people who helped make 10 happen. My business partners, Lim Kyoung-hee, Sang-tae Kim, Jai-yoon Kim and Hugh Lee have been with us since the very beginning, and they stick with us today. Publishing is a tough business, and I’m absolutely honored by the faith and support they have shown by partnering to make this magazine. Thank you all.

Most of all I want to thank you, our reader. We started this project four years ago with one mission: to help English speakers in Korea have more fun. Stick with us and pay attention to what we’re up to because in the coming year you’re going to see a lot more ways we’re going to do just that. And if you’ve got some other ideas, remember you can always share them with me.

Stephen R ev er e M ana g in g E d itor sr@10mag.com

A Shot of Korean by Stephen Revere 감기 조심하세요.

[Gam-gi jo-shim-ha-sae-yo]: Be careful of colds.

This one always seemed a little weird to me, as no one ever wants to catch a cold and you’ll hear it constantly as well as read it in your email correspondence all the time. Eventually I realized that it’s just a greeting that Koreans often use with each other. 오늘 추워요. [O-neul chu-wo-yo.] 감기 조심하세요.

It’s cold today. Be careful not to catch a cold.

This month’s Hanja.

Managing Editor Production Editor Coordinators

Jai-yoon Kim jaiyoonkim@10mag.com Stephen Revere sr@10mag.com Sonia Hensley pe@10mag.com Hwayoon Lee, Shannon Heit coordinator@10mag.com

Contributors Andray Abrahamian, Andrew Barbour, Britt Baumgardner, Michael Berry, Matthew Crawford, Ben Cowles, Sidney Goulet, Ian Henderson, Aireanne Hjelle, Michael Johnstone, Chase Kang, Keith Kim, Stafford Lumsden, Paul Matthews, Rhiannon May, Joe McPherson, John Mensing, YoungDoo Moon, Robert Neff, Conor O’Reilly, Anna Orzel, Rob Ouwehand, Mary Rager-Summers, Jacob Roy, Barun Sarkar, Nick Scherf, Rajnesh Sharma, Amanda Slavinsky, John Stoops, Alex Sutcliffe, Jakub Swiatczak, Andy Tebay, Vaughan Wallis, Pat Volz, Cherish Yap, Soyeon Kimberly Yoon Art Director Photographer Photo Editor

Hugh Lee hl@10mag.com Jessica Hollingsworth photography@10mag.com Aja Nuzzi photo.editor@10mag.com

Interns

Min A Kim Ah Ran Choi Jihye Cho Minji Koo

Marketing Inquiries Calendar Events Contributions Comments Subscriptions

marketing@10mag.com calendar@10mag.com contribute@10mag.com comments@10mag.com subscribe@10mag.com

Printer

Tara TPS. Co., Ltd From left to right: Sinan Ozturk, Chris Waldeck, Yvonne Kim, and Richard Min are happy to be four of 10’s 20 Expats. Shot

by Jessica Hollingsworth.

Taken at Haol in the heart of Gangnam.

water 水 [soo] 물 “수”

What day is ‘water’ day? 수요일. (soo-yo-il) 냉수 [naengsoo]: cold water 온수 [onsoo]: hot water 생수 [saengsoo]: mineral water 수박 [soobak]: watermelon

Check out Survival Korean and Survival Korean: Basic Grammar Skills for more Korean lessons from Stephen Revere.

4 | 10 Magazine October 2012

Executive Editor

The views expressed in these articles do not necessarily represent the views of 10 Magazine.

10 Magazine October 2012, Vol. 5 No. 1 등록번호: 용산 라 00184 (Registration: Yongsan Ra 00184) Address 서울시 용산구 이태원로 211 한남빌딩 10층 10th floor Hannam Buildling 211 Itaewon-ro, Seoul 140-893 Phone 02-3447-1610 www.10mag.com 10 Magazine is published monthly by 10 Media Inc. © All Rights Reserved.

Depatments Korea by the Numbers Ben Cowles (p.68) has been living, teaching and traveling about South Korea on and off for four years, yet he wishes to see more of the Land of the Morning Calm. As well as teaching fulltime, he is currently studying with the London School of Journalism and is the Alpha Male at monkeyboygoes.com.

Nick Scherf (p.12): This American writer, editor, and fashion enthusiast has resided in Korea since 2010. Outside of his present role as In-House Editor for a leading national textbook publishing company, he enjoys travel, art, and pop culture.

Inspired by Stefano Tonchi and Hilary Alexander, he believes the best style accessory is confidence. (p.68) Barun Sarkar (p.67) : Fuelled by awesome sauce, this Canadian is out to discover the coolest stuff on the Korean peninsula. A social monster, charity event planner, volunteer and photo bomber, he keeps the expats of Jeonju in the loop as an editor for TheJeonjuHub.com while lauding the wonders of the Jeolla provinces to 10 Mag readers for a year. (p.68) Amanda Slavinsky (p.47) is a foodie, traveler, English teacher, serial expat, and wannabe writer. Originally from Michigan, she moved to Seoul in 2011 for a change of scenery. Amanda spends most of her time eating, planning her next trip, and blogging about it all at www.farsicknessblog.com.

After Britt Baumgardner (p.24) welded a steel hedgehog (she studied art) she headed to Europe. Much to her dismay, blowtorches don’t fit within airplane weight restrictions, so she packed her beloved camera instead. She fell in love with creative and travel photography and today you can find her photographing in Seoul, Korea. See her work at www.brittbphotography.com.

10 S t a f f S p o t l i g h t

Jee-Hye Cho is a student of English literature at Dongguk University. She loves composing music, DJing and writing. Her goal is to do her best and enjoy every moment of every day.

These days, she’s really enjoying books by Guillaume Musso.

Contribute to 10 Magazine • Share your knowledge with our readers • See your work on the printed page • Receive vouchers, tickets, and other perks

10 Magazine is currently looking for contributors all over Korea to provide photography and writing. If you’re interested in gaining valuable writing experience and sharing your experience here with readers all across Korea, contact us at contribute@10mag.com.

6 | 10 Magazine October 2012

33.6

The percentage debt of South Korea’s debt-to-GDP ratio.

4

South Korea’s ranking among healthy (low) debtto-GDP ratios in the OECD.

4

Percentage point that Korea’s debt-to-GDP has dropped since last year.

of Japan’s 211.7 Percentage debt-to-GDP ratio— the highest in the OECD. Source

OECD via Korea Herald

One Year of 10 Magazine Delivered to Your Door for Only W54,000.

W19,900

That’s right. Get 65% off of the cover price and have 10 Magazine delivered right to your door. Timely information on all of the nation’s monthly exhibitions, concerts, festivals, ball games, marathons, parties and more at your fingertips - plus our great articles that just make life in Korea more fun!

Subscribe today! subscribe@10mag.com 02-3447-1610

Blog of the Month

Cameras in Unexpected Places

AmericanInNorthKorea.com W o r d s by R o b O u w e h a n d

E

very blog about South Korea must strike a balance between observation and commentary. However, blogs about North Korea are generally strictly commentary, as it’s hard enough to travel to North Korea—let alone communicate from within it.

Here to redress that balance is AmericanInNorthKorea.com.

Author Joseph is a sailor on oceanographic research ships, and while his research work takes him around Pacific Asia (including some time based in Busan), he takes every opportunity to travel to North Korea when he is in the region. Along the way, he takes as many pictures as he can while recounting the stories and incidents that occur, producing perhaps the only blog about North Korea that is strictly anecdotal and observational.

While opportunities to shake off the guide/handler who accompanies tourists to North Korea may be rare, blog posts focus on human interactions with North Koreans. The off-guard photos of children at play or people in a park, smiles from tour guides telling stories, and accounts of games with locals are disarming and surprising. The ultimate effect is to humanize North Korean citizens, reminding us that they’re normal people rather than just ideas, props for a political agenda, or statistics.

It helps that the photos happen to be lovely; if anything attracts readers to this site and causes them to return, it will be these photos, which jump past stereotypes and preconceptions to glow with the humanity of the ordinary North Korean people captured in them.

Content This may be the only blog of its kind.

Layout The topic is uncommon, but the unobtrusive layout lets the photos and the blog’s uniqueness shine.

Professionalism Post frequency depends on the writers’ opportunities to visit North Korea, but the writing is clean and the photos are worth the visit. A few links to some co-writers’ other commercial ventures don’t quite fit the feel of the rest of the blog.

Rob Ouwehand has blogged about expat life and Korean culture at roboseyo.blogspot.com since 2006. His friends actually do call him Roboseyo.

10 Magazine October 2012 | 7

Photo of the Month

In partnership with Flickr in Seoul

Shot by YoungDoo Moon

YoungDoo Moon is a designer and photographer. She is the founder of Flickr in Seoul and has been an administrator for over six years since April 2006.

These photographs are from her personal project on Wabi-Sabi, the beauty that is imperfect, impermanent, and incomplete. You can find more of her work at www.youngdoo.net.

Photo of the Month is new column brought to you in partnership with Flickr in Seoul. To submit your photos for consideration, visit flickr.com/groups/flickrinseoul.

Flickr in Seoul is a friendly and welcoming group of photographers of all levels with an affinity for Seoul. At the heart of FIS are its meet-ups, which are a chance not only to take pictures but a chance to chat, relax and meet like-minded people.

8 | 10 Magazine October 2012

A DVERTOR IAL

SOCIAL CAPITAL Career Building Through Diverse Social Network In Korea, social networks can be hard to build, particularly because relationships are very hierarchical and nuanced. But cultivated social networks are a recognized of form of relational power and a resource for the intellectual diversity needed to boost creativity and innovation. In October, IE Business School’s Master Class will show how developing specific types of networks, called “Bridge Networks”, along with T-Shaped Leadership will increase personal and work performance. The presentation will provide a clear understanding of social capital and knowledge of how the structure of networks can impact personal and career success and explain effective tools for personal networking.

Join us for this Master Class with Professor Steven D’Souza hosted by our local Korea Office.

October 10th, 2012, 7:30 pm at Gangnam Station (Line 2 exit 11 or 12) on the 2nd Fl. of the Korean Federation of Science and Technology Building. Across from the Children Library Park.

Free 2 hour parking provided.

Lecture Title: Achieving Success through Networking and Social Capital THIS LECTURE IS FREE BUT REGISTRATION IS REQUIRED BY OCTOBER 9, 2012 ONLINE AT EVENT.IE.EDU

GLOBAL MBA PLUS A flexible business degree program with GLOBAL reach Global MBA+ at IE Business School is a transformative learning experience that works around your busy work life.

Earn a worldclass Master of Business Administration (MBA) degree from a highly recognized business school flexibly in 12 to 15 months.

The acclaimed Global MBA+ Program allows you to specialize your MBA in areas that can bolster your career, such as Finance, Tourism Management, Sports Management, Biotechnology Management, Digital Marketing, IT, and others. With short residential periods in Madrid, Spain and other international locations mixed in with highly interactive online learning sessions, you will discover why IE has been ranked highly year on year for its innovative business programs.

For more information, visit us online at: blended-masters.ie.edu or email us at korea@ie.edu.

Relationships

Korea’s No-Fly Zone

New column!

Check 10 every month for the latest on dating and relationships in Korea.

Approaching a love interest in the Land of the Morning Calm Words by Chase Kang and Rhiannon May, illustrations by Sidney Goulet

M

aybe you’ve had the unpleasant experience of trying to open a conversation with a stranger in Korea, only to be greeted with a frozen look of panic, embarrassment or disdain.

It’s not that Koreans aren’t friendly. It’s more that social interactions here hinge on familial, regional or professional ties to provide the proper frame of reference when meeting someone for the first time. Think of renaissance Italy during the rise of the merchant class: you never quite know who is a real knight, a proper “yangban” or who might know your second cousin from the army and be able to get you a sweet job at LG. More to the point, Koreans actually love meeting new people, but these meetings tend to be arranged by known third parties as in “sogetting” or “sun”. This ensures not only legitimacy of intent on both sides, but also the immediate advantage of a support network if things go awry (or great, for that matter).

So why did that girl flee from the bookstore when you tried to introduce yourself?

I

magine how many love-stories would never have begun had one person not had the courage to strike up a conversation with another in an unexpected or a public place.

Billions, probably! However, if we’re talking specifically about men approaching women, then universally the concept is a tricky one.

This is perhaps further heightened in Korea, where cultural codes of conduct and language barriers may come into play.

This is not to say that all is lost. One of my best

1 Most women, across all cultures, don’t enjoy being confronted unexpectedly in public with romantic propositions. There are a million possible reasons why.

2 Remember your manners.

While bravado often wins the day in the West, Koreans see loudness as vulgar and humility as a sign of refinement, so make eye contact your boldest communication rather than a loud voice or sweeping gestures.

3 Flip the script by asking for her help. Ask for directions, borrow a lighter, or request her assistance in translating something from Korean. From there it’s easy to thank her graciously, mention how friendly Koreans are and suggest a way to repay her kindness.

by C h a se K a ng

friends recently celebrated her one-hundred day anniversary with a lovely guy she was once sat next to on the KTX. “He saw me typing a text message in Korean,” she says, “He asked politely if I minded if he talked to me. I said I didn’t mind, and things just went from there.”

As Chase pointed out - it’s all about context, and this goes for women who may want to try their luck, too.

Judge the situation well, be polite and aware, and be yourself! And hopefully you won’t find yourself making a desperate, regret-fueled post on the Seoul “Missed Connections” list.

BY R h i a n non M ay

Chase Kang: When it comes to relationships, Chase believes that we should not wish things were easier, but rather wish that we could rise better to the challenge.

Rhiannon May: Having recently begun her fourth year in Korea, eighth year of proper dating, and twenty-fifth year of being alive, Rhiannon has just about perfected the art of being terrible at following her own advice.

#olympics @10_magazine Has anyone else noticed that Koreans are amazing at shooting guns, shooting arrows, flipping people and sword fighting? @qiranger @10_Magazine Yeah.

Every day at the MuYe24Ki demonstrations in #Suwon.

10 | 10 Magazine October 2012

#hungry @hanbae Well, it’s obvious to everyone that I’m fired up today.

Anyone know any good 불닭 places in Hongdae? @zenkimchi @seoulfoodyo @10_magazine @seoulfoodyo @hanbae @ZenKimchi @10_Magazine can’t do buldak. way too spicy for me. @hanbae @seoulfoodyo @ZenKimchi @10_Magazine We ended up going to 닭날다 in Hongdae. Delicious!

But I kept having to go “Woo!” after each bite.

#typhoonBolaven @10_magazine Today’s most searched phrase on Naver and Daum: “창문에 테이프를 어떻게 뜯어?” (How do you get tape off of a window? @holterbarbour Wife puts globs of sunscreen on our scissors when they get gummed up with tape adhesive. Let sit for a few hours, wipe clean.

Now on 10mag.com

Classic: The 10 Best Coffee Shops in Seoul

From Last Month: Mongolian Blues

Expanded Content: Dating in Korea

Before diving into our list of the best coffee shops in Korea on page 16, check out our original top ten list of coffee shops in Seoul—and feel free to join in the comment fray. Nothing gets people more riled up than a good cup of coffee!

Our most popular Asian Destination article so far this year ran last month, and it has gotten a little revamp from the author and adventurer David Volodzko.

Check out the full version of Mongolian Blues online.

10’s new column on dating and relationships is too much to fit on one page! Desperate for more? Check out the full text of approach advice from Chase and Rhiannon right now on our blog.

Video: Korean-Style Punishment by Seoulistic Think your parents were hard on you as a kid? Well you might not think so after watching this video.

Korean punishments can be… creative (and for some of us observing, amusing!). Check out this post by 10’s favorite YouTube series, Seoulistic— introducing Korea, one video at a time.

Connect with Us facebook.com/10magazine @10_magazine Online: 10mag.com In your inbox: Subscribe to the Weekly 10 newsletter at 10mag.com/the-weekly-10

Overheard “We’re totally flabbergasted by this whole thing. We spent most of yesterday crying rather than functioning.”

Simon Stawski, half of YouTube duo Eat Your Kimchi, after raising $40,000 in seven hours through an online venture fund to open a studio for the website. As quoted by Evan Ramstad of the Wall Street Journal.

“Today’s verdict should not be viewed as a win for Apple, but as a loss for the American consumer.”

First official statement from Samsung in response to the US trial verdict on the Apple vs. Samsung patent infringement case.

“I raised these issues with both of them, urging that... they lower the temperature and work together in a concerted way to have a calm and restrained approach.”

US Secretary of State Hillary Clinton, speaking of the dispute between Korea and Japan during the Asia Pacific Economic Cooperation Forum in Vladivostok, Russia.

“Though he passed away, his efforts and feats made for the reconciliation and unity of the nation, the reunification of the country and the world peace will last forever.”

Official statement from Kim Jong Eun, Supreme Leader of North Korea, on the death of Reverend Moon Sun Myung of the Unification Church, as released by North Korean Central News Agency.

“Most chillingly, though, there was a deluge of death threats from crazed fans... ‘Let me show you how you shall die,’ one began.”

American music journalist Sam Lansky, on the craze of online fans while covering a Los Angeles K-pop concert. As published in Grantland Quarterly Online.

Looking for 10 Questions?

Don’t worry—while all of our burning questions went into our cover story this month, our regular “10 Questions” interviews will return in our November issue. Stay tuned!

10 Magazine October 2012 | 11

Obsessions of the month

Jazzy Fall With the leaves falling and the year’s best music on its way (see p. 64), it’s a good time to do something different with autumn colors.

For instructions on how to challenge yourself, see below.

New column!

Check out these obsessionworthy picks from local designers each month. Got something you’re obsessed with? Send it to pe@10mag.com.

Edited by Nick Scherf

A recent trend dictates that black-colored food is good for you. According to Banila Co., that includes topical applications. The Black 17 Sleeping Pack, W14,000. banilaco.com

Get a lift in these 3-Color Platforms by Low Classic. Also available in black/ white/navy, these heels are great for reaching new heights in the office or your urban chic lifestyle. lowclassic.com Unique color blocking and patchwork patterns make this asymmetrical miniskirt especially appealing. Low Classic Wine Color Block SK. lowclassic.com

12 10 Magazine October 2012

With a modern irregular back seam and pocket detailing, this 100% cotton cardigan jacket by Paul & Alice stands out from the crowd. Back Overlap Denim Jacket, W213,000. paulalice-shop.com

Avante-garde designer Imseonoc combines fashion and technology.

Playing with jewel tones on blacks, she created an intriguing body of work for her PartspARTs fall collection, including looks such as Rhythmical (W580,000) available at imseonoc.com.

Find your favorite holiday foods at High Street Market

Reserve your turkey today! (Available Oct-Dec) Inquire about ordering fully prepared seasonal meals.

Market Hours | 10:00am - 9:00pm daily Shop Online | www.highstreet.co.kr

02-790-5450 | 737-24 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

It’s in the mail – or is it?

P

14 10 Magazine October 2012

Top

Korean postman circa 1910-1920 Korean mailman circa 1910

n e x t pa g e

rior to the marvels of the computer and its email service or the smart phone and its Kakao program, snail mail was the only economical way that foreigners in Korea could keep in touch with their families back home. Snail mail, as the name implies, was slow and letters to and from the United States frequently took a week or more to arrive. But if this seems bad, imagine how it was in the Joseon era.

The first modern postal services in Korea were operated by the Japanese and located at the open ports. In Seoul, the mail was delivered to the Japanese post office and then collected by an American and taken to the legation, where a certain flag was flown notifying the Americans that the mail had arrived.

Sometimes the mail was merely placed in a sack and sent around to each house – “each person helping himself.” Of course, this was far from perfect and letters and postcards were occasionally lost. During the late 1880s, one devious American allegedly took letters from American advisors to the Korean government and printed the contents in newspapers in Hong Kong.

As early as 1884 (just before Korea established its own short-lived postal service, which survived less than three weeks), there were charges of mail tampering and theft. Even the American legation was not exempt from having its mail stolen.

In December 1891, Helen Heard, the daughter of Augustine Heard, the American Minister to Korea, wrote to her sister that she was terribly afraid that her letter would fall into the wrong hands because the “mail has already been stolen several times this autumn.”

In 1895, Sallie Sill, the wife of the American Minister to Korea, also complained of packages being stolen. She explained to her son, “The shirts you sent your father from Yokohama never reached him at all, I presume either some unusually large Japanese or Korean in foreign dress is getting the benefit of them.” The American Minister was a fairly large man.

Because of the “continued complaints owing to the unaccountable disappearance of letters, even though registered”, at the Japanese Post Office in Seoul, many Americans gathered their mail together and then sent it by a special courier to the American-owned Townsend & Co. in Jemulpo (Incheon). It cost a little bit more but many felt the costs outweighed the risks. The Americans were not alone, as other legations did the same.

On July 23, 1895, Korea began its domestic mail service. Letters were picked up and delivered in Seoul at seven in the morning and five in the evening. Mail to Jemulpo was sent at 9 am and arrived that evening at 5 pm. The Korean service did a fairly good job of delivering the mail and

Words by Robert Neff Photos from the collection of Robert Neff

was soon extended to Suwon and Songdo (Kaesong in North Korea). But, like any bureaucracy, it was over-staffed. There were four Japanese advisors who were paid 100, 80, 60 and 30 yen a month, twelve Koreans – who did not deliver mail – paid 10-12 yen and thirteen mail carriers who earned 7 yen. The mail carriers to Songdo and Suwon were paid 15 yen because of the distance they were required to walk.

Korean mail carriers had a lot of responsibility.

Tampering with the mail would earn them huge fines, public lashings (anywhere from ten to 100 strokes) and jail sentences ranging from a month to three years in prison (Korean prisons were notoriously bad). The carriers were also at risk from banditry and acts of violence. Several were robbed and even killed. In one district, the local magistrate had angered the people so severely that they decided to take it out on the post office – they destroyed it. The postmaster got away, but the mail did not.

Robert Neff has authored or co-authored several books including Korea Through Western Eyes and The Lives of Westerners in Joseon Korea. He currently writes a twice-weekly column for the Korea Times entitled “Did you know?” as well as a twice-monthly historical column for the Jeju Weekly.

10 Magazine October 2012 | 15

F e at u r e

The Best Coffee

Words by Jacob Roy and Andray Abrahamian, shots by Jessica Hollingsworth and café owners

In November of 2010, 10 Magazine published a list of the ten best coffee shops in Seoul. The article remains our website’s most popular pages month in and month out. This month we revisit coffee, exploring cafés not only in the capital but all over Korea. Read on for the history of “third wave coffee” and its accompanying star cafes on the peninsula.

16 | 10 Magazine October 2012

Shops in Korea Background Third Wave Coffee in Korea In the first half of the twentieth century, Ita l ia n a nd Por t ug uese im m ig ra nts brought the USA its “first wave” of good coffee. For decades, these espresso bars primarily served customers from the same immigrant communities and the few inner-city hipster liberals that dared seek them out.

The “second wave” arrived on the West Coast of America, starting with Peet’s Coffee & Tea in the early 1960s and climaxing with the worldwide phenomenon known as Starbucks. The second wave is characterized by a variety of choices in roast, espresso-based drinks and green mermaids.

Though it has roots in earlier movements, the “third wave” of coffee really started brewing around the turn of the 21st centur y. Noticeable, responsible improvements at all stages of coffee production were introduced. Growing, harvesting and processing all advanced with the strengthening of the relationships between growers, traders and roasters.

Like high-end wine, micro-brewed beer and specialty chocolate, third wave coffee has emerged as a complex culinary commodity with a variety of sophisticated

aromas and tastes. Coffee has become an artisanal product.

Third wave coffee and the accompanying culture have crashed into Korean shores like Typhoon Maemi. There are now dozens of third wave coffee shops serving up a smorgasbord of single origin hand-drip coffees and artisanal espresso variations around the country. Here, we have listed the best.

Each of these cafes micro-roast their beans or buy them from well-k now n micro-roasters. Almost all of the baristas can make you a solid ristretto and many of them compete in national and international barista and roasting competitions.

The coffee at these cafes is better than good—it’s as good as it gets. It is world class. And while Seoul is hot on Tokyo’s heels as Asia’s best coffee city, the below list moves beyond the big city limits to give you the best coffee in Korea at large. Any one of these cafes would make a splash in any coffee loving cit y, any where.

Enjoy.

The Actual List Korea’s Best Coffee Shops

Special thanks to Cafe Cuppee in Yangju for the photo shoot set.

Ca fé Momos

A n t h r ac i t e C o f f e e

Oncheonjang, Busan.

The godfather of Southland specialty coffee, Momos’ has an incredible space – several, really. Multiple balconies, a bamboo garden, in-house bakery, as well as an annex and coffee classroom all anchored around a large roasting space. Local cats approve. 051-512-7034

Sangsu, Seoul.

Ignore the Coffee Factory in 10’s first cafe review. This literally was and metaphorically is Korea’s coffee factory. Great coffee in one of the most impressive industrialcum-gallery spaces you’ll see.

02-322-0009 5 E x t r ac t s

C o f f e e- g a S a r a n g h a n N a m j a

Busan, Busan University.

A couple blocks down from the hideous main gate of Busan U is this curiouslynamed cafe: even natives get confused by the grammar. The humble owner, Beomseok, is the man the coffee loved. He roasts on the first floor and extracts all the best from his single origin beans.

051-703-1004

Hongdae, Seoul.

This hipster hangout just oozes hipster juices from every one of its hipster pores.

Bad haircuts, tight pants, trendy music and one of Korea’s champion baristas ready to share his coffee and contempt with anyone who walks in. 02-324-5815 Continued on page 18 10 Magazine October 2012 | 17

F e at u r e

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10 C o f f e e Fa rm Jeju City, Jeju.

Set in the middle of a bucolic rice field on the outskirts of Jeju City, this is the quintessence of Korean country life. The master roaster owner Rho Jin-yi embodies the very rare combination of professionalism and modesty. One can smell the roasting beans on the long walk across the path past the “guard” dogs. 064-721-0055

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C o f f e e R a d io

Bangbae-Dong, Seoul.

New School roast master Chu Seonghyon’s shop is worth listening to, with your nose and mouth. Seong-hyon is also affectionately known as the most handsome man in the Korean coffee biz.

02-585-9229 I n E a rth Coffee

C o f f e e LE C Sinsa, Seoul.

Walk past the legions of corporate coffee shops that have taken over the main drag of the once-hip Garosu-gil on your way to An Jae-Hyuek’s tiny shop. Fight your way through the crowds of playboys and golddiggers and get a master espresso from one Korea’s most awarded barristi.

070-4250-9723

C o f f e e S e d o n a Coex, Seoul.

Somebody invested millions of dollars into this one coffee shop. You can tell from the huge space right in Coex Mall to the hundred-thousand-dollar McIntosh stereo to the four matching La Marzocco espresso machines to the trifecta of imported roasts from West Coast superstar roasters. Here you will find coffee made from beans roasted by 49th parallel, Intelligentsia and Stumptown. Impressive. 02-3466-8008

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10 Magazine October 2012

Sonjeong Beach, Busan.

You can barely sneak a beach view in between the buildings, but fret not, the sleek décor, tasteful back garden and perfectly formed crema will delight the eyes aplenty. 051-703-7666

1 Coffee Lec, 2-3 Jeju Coffee Farm, 4-5 In Earth Coffee, 6 Coffee Libre, 7 Coffee Radio, 8 Coffee-ga Saranghan Namja, 9-10 Coffee Sedona H o n o r a b l e M e n t io n s

Other cafes and roasters worth their weight in coffee beans include Addis Ababa, Coffee Temple, I do, Gwanghamun Coffee, Cheon Gwan Su, Chan Bros, Ikovox, Alien Coffee, La Café, Coffeest, Club Espresso, and Pattern Coffee Roaster. All of these cafes are located in Seoul.

C o f f e e L i br e

Yeonnam-dong, Seoul.

Wrestlers and roasters have traveled the world in search of the best beans. They just recently opened their own cafe and it serves as a sort of semi-private club for the coffee intelligentsia (lower case “i”) of Seoul. After reading this article you will be a welcome amigo. 02-325-7140 P e o p l e ‘ N ’ Ta l k

Seoseng Myun, Ulsan.

Don’t be afeard of the giant nuclear power plant down the road – Korea’s oldest. It goes to power the smallest commercial roasting machine in Korea . A nother ocean-view café, this one provides a huge balcony and sense of accomplishment for having found it. Seoseng is one village that has banished Maxim. 052-239-0050

Jacob Roy acts only according to that maxim by which, at the same time, he can will that it should become a universal law.

He drinks Laphroaig for breakfast and refuses to read anything not written in iambic pentameter.

Andray Abrahamian is a direct descendant of a downstairs chap buried at the real Downton Abbey. He spends most of his time eating vegetarian foods, filling him with sound and fury. He loves coffee and beer.

A TASTE OF KOR EA

The Healthy Pancake 빈대떡 Bin-dae-tteok

W or d s by S tephen R e v ere , shot by J essica H ollin g sworth

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t the end of last year they told me that my cholesterol was 272. In case you don’t know, that’s really high. Then they told me to take drugs. Not anxious to start on statins having only just begun my midlife crisis, I looked into alternatives. After some research on foods that lower your cholesterol I set up my own little diet to fix it without drugs and without eliminating a bunch of foods that I still loved to eat. If it didn’t work, on the drugs I went. After a few months I returned to get checked. Sure enough, 209.

Hello bacon my old friend... (sung to Simon and Garf un kel ’s “ The Sound of Silence”).

What foods did I eat you ask? Along with a few others, beans were key 1. This month’s Taste of Korea dish is a great way to sneak in those heart-healthy beans à la Corée.

Bi nd a et t eok i s pa nc a ke ma de f rom ground mung beans mixed up with some veggies and meat or seafood. Some of the most common vegetable selections include g reen on ion , on ion , hot peppers, a nd sprouts. Occasionally they will include some

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uniquely Korean ingredients like a root called do-ra-ji (도라지) or some bracken, a.k.a. go-sa-ri (고사리). The meat is usually pork, but beef is sometimes used at finer restaurants. The “seafood” is usually only code for squid. They may sneak in a little shrimp on you, but don’t count on it. Kimchi is another popular variety, which will likely come with pork in it (we’ve talked before about how common and delicious this combination is). All varieties will be served with some raw onions or green onions floating in soy sauce, which add just the right amount of saltiness and crunch.

Korean custom calls for heading out with friends on rainy days to eat bindaetteok with some soju or makgeolli. Why, you ask?

I have yet to hear a good explanation for this, but the best one thus far is that the sound of bindaetteok frying up is just like the sound of rain hitting the ground outside. Fair enough. I think it’s just an excuse to enjoy a drink and some good food with friends - because you can never have enough good reasons for that.

1. For those who are curious the others were: tomatoes and watermelon for lycopene, oatmeal, almonds (and other nuts), soy products (tofu, soy milk, twenjang, etc. And yeah, I know it’s another bean) and psyllium seed husk - which you may know better under its brand name Metamucil. Regularity is a side perk.

N e t i z e n ’ s P i ck s Cheongil Jip 청일집

Pimakjol is an area famous for bindaetteok, but even among the its many restaurants, Cheongil Jip stands out.

Cheongil Jip is both the oldest and most popular restaurant and its bindaetteok is special: it’s served with salted seafood or jukgal instead of soy sauce. Enjoy the renowned taste of jukgal bindaetteok which has delighted visitors for 65 years.

277 Cheongjin-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul.

02-732-2626 Odusan Makguksu 오두산 막국수

Sometimes it’s worth traveling a long distance to have a satisfying meal. Since it was introduced in the comic book Sikgeak, Odusan Makguksu became one of Korea’s most popular destinations for scrumptious bindaetteok. The rich taste of ground mung-bean will be a reward for your long trip and queue.

369-5 Yadong-dong, Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do.

031-944-7022 Jongno Bindaetteok 종로빈대떡

Not all bindaetteok is the same! Jongno Bindaetteok proves it with their diverse menu: meat bindaetteok, kimchi bindaetteok, seafood bindaetteok, shrimp bindaetteok, and more. Each menu item has a unique taste made through the harmonious mix of its respective special ingredient and ground mung bean.

20-14 Bupyeong-dong 2-ga, Jung-gu, Busan. 051-256-4649

Asi a n Destination

Eating Osaka A Food Tour of Japan’s Culinary Capital

Words and shots by Cherish Yap

Learn the virtue of kuidaore with a taste of Japan’s famous capital of cuisine.

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ny visitor to Osaka might wonder: why are the people so friendly? Big smiles make themselves seen on the faces of locals all around the city. Both native Osakans and visitors alike comment that the people there are more casual and relaxed than anywhere else in Japan. Some also say the people of Osaka are happy and openhearted because of the food they eat.

Osaka’s food culture can be summed up into one uniquely Japanese word: kuidaore. It can be roughly translated as “to ruin oneself with food.” But when applied to Osaka, it usually means “to enjoy food to the last drop.” With the city’s countless, and sometimes overwhelming, food options, it is obvious that Osakans are extremely passionate about eating and drinking—and that there are plenty of ways to “ruin”, or fully enjoy, one’s visit.

recent v isits to Singapore, Toronto, Food on a Stick: Kushi-katsu The classic Nishiki is a restaurant nes- Shanghai and Manhattan I saw tako-yaki tled in the heart of Namba. The district in food stalls, frozen in grocery stores, alternates between flashy neon signs and and of course in Japanese restaurants.

In the Namba and Shinsaibashi disfuturistic skyscrapers that could be mistaken for something out of Blade Run- tricts you will find tako-yaki stalls everyner. Since 1949, Nishiki has been serving where. You can eat your doughy balls traditional Osakan fare. There you can of octopus by the manmade Dotonbori sample an city specialty called kushi- canal that has beautiful lanterns lining the walkways. Both districts are also katsu.

In its most basic form, kushi-katsu is known for their amazing nightlife—perdeep-fried bites of meat or vegetables on haps the chewy treat was made for drinka bamboo stick. It’s common to see rows ing and dancing. of businessmen in identical white shirts enjoying a post-work feed while dipping Pancake on a Grill: Okinomi-yaki In Shinsaibaishi you can enjoy okinotheir kushi-katsu in different sauces, salt and spices. One would expect something mi-yaki cooked before your eyes at a resdeep fried to be heav y and filling but taurant called President Chibo. Okinomieverything on Nishiki’s long menu of over ya k i is a savor y panca ke made w ith cabbage, and a dish Osakans are proud 30 items is light.

The restaurant ser ves Minoh Beer, to claim as their own. Though it is served nationwide the okinomi-yaki which won the 2010 award in Osaka is heavier and more for Best Stout & Porter at the Nishiki: filling than other versions. At World Beer Awards. Minoh 1-6-10 Nanba, President Chibo, we crowded Beer is from Minoh City, just Chuo-ku, around the chef as we watched north of Osaka, and Osakans Osaka-shi, Osaka-fu him craft our dishes from start consider it their own.

President Chibo to finish.

Nishiki also doesn’t stint 8th Floor of Daimaru President Chibo specializes when it comes to Osa k a’s Department Store in teppenyaki dishes like okiother famous product, humor.

1-7-1 nomi-yaki and yakisoba. They Giggling can be heard everyShinsaibaishisuji also served us a marbled cut of where you go in the city— Chuo-ku, Osaka-shi, Kobe beef, which let out smells Osaka is even known as the Osaka-fu 542-8501 that could activate every single c e nt e r of m a n z a i , one of salivary gland while it sizzled Japan’s most popular comedy forms. While eating at Nishiki, I mimed on the grill. Being in President Chibo felt to ask if I could take pictures and the chef like the next best thing to cooking food sternly shook his head “no”, then broke myself. The anticipation of watching our food cook felt like tasting it with my eyes out into a huge smile and laughed. first. The chef delicately laced a ribbon of mayonnaise onto my okonomi-yaki from Octopus in a Ball: Tako-yaki Tako-yaki, otherwise known as a ball two feet away and then suggested a nice of octopus, is one of Osaka’s best-known plum wine. When asked if it would comfoods. The round little snack has become plement the food he answered, “Of course, popular worldwide, and tako-yaki stalls it’s how we eat!” can be seen all over Seoul. On my own Cherish Yap is a convicted travelholic. She has lived in four countries and visited 37. After taking Photography 101 eight years ago with a crazy nudist professor she was hooked on photography as well, but not so hooked on nudism. She loves to cook, teach, and dance, as well as write silly songs on her piano, guitar and djembe.

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Words by Sonia Hensley, shots by Jessica Hollingsworth, John Stoops, and Britt Baumgardner; illustrations by Pat Volz

“Ask not what your country can do for you, but what you can do for your country.”

John F. Kennedy What does it take to be named an “Expat You Need to Know”?

Whether a beneficiary of Korea’s abundant opportunities or an agent of change with a history abroad, all of our picks for this year’s movers and shakers are working to make things better and brighter their adopted country, Korea. Check out what our twenty expats are up to— and let us know who should be included in the future. Could it be you?

The Bridge Sinan Ozturk

C E O of T u t r a B DM

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Sinan Ozturk f irst came to Korea i n 19 9 7 to ea r n h is Master’s degree, but soon got a job offer he couldn’t refuse: manager of the Turkish team during the 2002 World Cup. A former youth league footballer, Ozturk used the games as an opportunity to solidify the ties bet ween his home country and Korea, already established from their long diplomatic history and cultural similarities.

Ice cream and kebabs might soon be added to that list of cultural similarities thanks

i n l a r g e p a r t t o O z t u r k ’s company, Tutra BDM, whose rest au ra nt cha i ns i nclude Mr. Kebab, Mido Turkish Ice Cream, Kervan Restaurant, and more. Despite the fact that there are only around 500 Turkish expats in Korea, Turkish cuisine has become nearly inescapable in some corners of Seoul, clearly showing the affinity Koreans have for the Eurasian country. Of his future plans, Ozturk says, “Like the World Cup… I want my work to be a bridge between Korea and Turkey, two brother countries.”

The Cultural Ambassador Yvonne Kim

E x ec u t i ve Di r ec t or , A si a S o c i e t y Kor e a C en t e r

When Yvonne Kim, the former events manager for Columbia University, was appointed as the head of Asia Society’s Korea Center four years ago, it was the first time she’d returned to her country of birth since childhood. Now, she heads the Society’s efforts to raise a new generation of Korean leaders.

Among these, Asia21 is a philanthropic network of young business leaders with public-service mindsets; summer camps for multiethnic children in Korea provide a chance to take advantage of their backgrounds rather than regard them as handicaps; and the Women Leadership Initiative gives women across Asia a forum and a resource for a changing age.

Founded by the philanthropic Rockefeller family after WWII, the Asia Society is a non-profit think tank, arts organization, and public education institution dedicated to increasing the ties between the USA and Asian continent. The Korea Center in particular focuses on education, especially given Korea’s fight to balance a rounded childhood with the factory-like atmosphere of competitive schooling. Kim laments the priorities of Korean schooling on the younger generation in particular, saying, “Teaching Korean history should come before teaching English.”

The Entrepreneur Richard Min C E O

The Observer

Alastair Gale Kor e a

Bu r e au C h i e f, Wa l l St r ee t Jou r n a l / D ow Jone s Kor e a

Launched in 2010, the popular Korea Real Time blog is one arm of the Seoul office of Wall Street Journal Asia, headed by bureau chief Alastair Gale. He says of the news site’s success: “When we launched the Korean blog, we were blown away.” Korea Real Time is already garnering half a million page views per day.

Maybe not so surprisingly, the most popular articles on the bilingual Korea Real Time site are not hard-hitting news stories, but offbeat lifestyle and special interest pieces on issues like foreign lectures or Koreans living abroad. Gale explains, “The definition of success in Korea is so narrowly defined—go to the right university, get a job in a chaebol—that these stories have an element of escapism [for Korean readers].” Meanwhile, the audience for purely Korea-centered content remains relatively small, but KRT’s blog format creates space beyond WSJ’s main newshole to “let rip” on Korea-interest stories, as Gale puts it.

Gale is a veteran of Asia, having lived in Japan for ten years and Singapore in six before making his way to Korea in January of last year. When asked about the idea of the Asian century, Gale answered freely, “I’m completely on board with that. I believe in this being Asia’s moment, Asia’s time.”

of Se ou l Space

Five years ago, the idea of a Silicon Va lley in Korea would have been impossible—and that’s according to the man that has invested ever y thing into creating one. R icha rd M in, CEO and co-founder of startup incubator Seoul Space, says the success of small Korean tech companies came from “a perfect storm of events t hat c a me t oget her i n a Cambrian t y pe of ex plosion.” First came the entry of the iPhone in 2009, which lowered the entry barrier for programmers and designe r s a c r o s s t h e c o u nt r y.

Then came a shift in social c on s c iou s n e s s —K or e a n techies watching IPOs in the US realized that they didn’t need to work for Samsung to be successful. The last step was when the government finally got on board, recognizing the field’s importance and investing in its future.

Native New Yorker and venture analyst Min founded Seoul Space in 2010 after working in the Korean IT industry for nearly a decade. His company’s K-Startup Hub takes advantage of Korea’s newfound tech success, nurturing new startups through funding, counseling, and inspiration. So far, Seoul Space has worked with hundreds of new firms, including Adby.me, Shakr, Didi Networks, and I-um, which have now grown out of Korea and expanded to the US. But Min knows there is still work to be done before Korea can break out of its chaebol mindset. “Korea is still Korea. You can’t change 3,000 years of culture with an iPhone,” he says.

10 Magazine October 2012 | 25

The Face of the Community

Cristina Confalonieri H e a d of Y e ok sa m G l ob a l V i l l age C en t e r

The Trendspotter Chris Waldeck

Br a n d Di r ector , Reebok Kor e a

Since Brand Director Chris Waldeck ’s arrival in Korea two and a half years ago, Reebok Korea has expanded their public presence dramatically with two major tools: Crossfit and celebrity endorsements.

“The Korean consumer is a smart consumer. If you can give them touchpoints for the brand – the gym, celebrities—they react positively,” Waldeck explains. Reebok’s Crossfit gyms became a catalyst for the brand while leading Korea’s Crossfit explosion late in 2011. The star power of celebrities like JY Park, Swizz Beats, and 2PM’s Taecyeon and Wooyoung, who helped launch shoe lines with Reebok Korea in June, also increased Reebok’s presence.

Next on Waldeck’s list of priorities is the creation of positive community programs to help tackle serious issues within Korean society. In late September, Reebok piloted BOKS, a fitness program for elementary-aged children. He explains the connection: “If kids participate in organized physical activity, like BOKS, for 35 to 45 minutes in the morning, teachers see there’s less bullying and overall happier and more productive students.”

One of Korea’s most beloved foreign TV personalities, Cristina Confalonieri is now a leading public servant. A main panelist on the KBS talk show Misuda or “Chatting with Beauties” until the show’s run ended, Cristina was known for her sweet sense of humor and Italianaccented Korean skills. Since then, she has become the face of the foreign community in Gangnam by heading the area’s only Global Village Center, a governmentrun support space for foreign residents.

“Other Globa l Vi l la ge Centers are focused around one nationality, like the Japanese in Ichon or the French in Seorae,” she explains. “But here we have visitors from everywhere.” The Yeoksam Center organizes free Korean classes, volunteering opportunities, cook ing sessions a nd cu lt u ra l prog ra ms for Gangnam’s foreign residents, a diverse collection of company workers, hagwon teachers, and expat executives. Cristina emphasizes the Center’s most popular asset, its language instruction. “I try to push people to learn Korean as much and as fast as they can,” she says. “If you don’t understand, then you can’t enjoy your time here.”

The Artist

Mike Stewart, fou n de r

and ow ne r , Ja nk u r a A rt Space

For an ex pat to become an ar tist is a l rea dy brea k i ng g rou nd . But what makes Mike Stewart stand out is that he’s teaching others to do the same. Jankura Art Space, founded by Stewart in January 2012, is the only English-language art studio in Korea. Jankura takes students of all levels for classes from silkscreening to life drawing to painting. In less than a year, Jankura has already welcomed hundreds of students and hosted nine special workshops. According to Stewart, the next step is to connect cultures by inviting professional Korean artists to guest lecture.

“I created Jankura to fill a vacuum.

There are a lot of art majors who come to Korea but have no venue to go to within the Korean art academy world due to language barriers,” Stewart says. However, half of Stewart’s students are not expats but local Koreans, showing that the need for the space extends beyond language and culture. He explains, “Korean art academies aim just for university acceptance and exams. But people at Jankura are interested in learning to draw or picking up a new hobby or developing themselves.”

The Original Expat Bradley K. Buckwalter

Pr e si den t a n d Reg ion a l M a n age r , ADT Kor e a

The president of securit y g iant A DT Korea, Bradley K. Buckwalter, first arrived on the peninsula in 1983 as a missionary in a small city in South Gyeongsang Province. He explains that thirty years ago, things were quite different: “If I wanted to take a warm shower, I had to walk 15 minutes to the nearest bathhouse.”

Buck wa lter now heads a company whose mission is to provide buildings around Korea with the most high-security technology in the world. Thirty years later, fingerprint entry into most Korean offices is now commonplace and accu26 | 10 Magazine October 2012

rate facial recognition technology will be rolled out affordably enough for even non-governmental clients starting next year.

According to Buckwalter, throughout his work and long stay in Korea, “I’ve left my fingerprints on hundreds of buildings across the country.” But he adds that even if expats don’t plan to stay as long as he has, “If you make it past the five-year point, you start to understand the culture. You fall in love with it because of the passion and ambition and the pride that people have here.”

The Epicurean Andreas Krampl

E x ec u t i ve C he f of J W M a r r io t t Se ou l

A native of Germany, Andreas Krampl arrived in Korea one year ago w ith an impressive professiona l cook ing career of 23 years and spanning 14 countries, mostly in Asia and the Middle East. His assignment at Seoul’s JW Marriott is his first in Korea and has provided him with ample inspiration. “I enjoy working with Korean chili paste, jung ginseng and sesame leaves, three things I’d never used before,” says the chef.

His goal at the JW is to add more unique international menu items learned from his worldw ide experience—he cites Dubai, Bali, and Thailand as his favorite places to cook so far—while sticking to tasty, simple, elegant food that offers value for the price. As for the Korean kitchen, he says, “All my chefs are afraid of using salt. I always have to add seasonings to all the food I’m tasting.” But he’s quick to add of his experience in Korea, “It’s great. The work ethic is incredible.”

The Performer

Yuka Iwamoto f i r st

for e ign N a n ta pl aye r

Korea’s first global hit stage show was Nanta, the nonverbal kitchen-drumming musical comedy that premiered in Seoul in 1997 and has since sold over 7 million tickets and toured 276 cities.

For Yuka Iwamoto, Nanta was reason enough to actually move to Korea. Iwamoto began to dream of becoming a Nanta performer after first seeing the show in 2002. Despite having no background in acting or percussion, she moved to Seoul in 2007 and began working part-time at the Nanta theater souvenir shop while taking jazz dance classes and studying Korean at Sogang University. After ten months of intense training, she finally succeeded in passing the auditions and debuted in 2009.

When asked how she feels about her career with the show, she says, “Nanta inspired me to become an actor. I hope that in the future I can keep developing and help inspire others, too.”

The Up-and-Comers

The Social Butterfly

The Activist

Br a n d De signe r a n d DJ

Sen ior Oce a n s C a m pa igne r at G r een pe ace

Don’t call Camara Stewart a party planner. This Londoner came to Korea in 2009 after a different expat job—as a social designer for Estee Lauder in Manhattan—and has since begun making his mark on upscale brands and venues around Seoul.

“We’re creating something fresh for unique people,” Stewart says of his efforts. Companies like Dom Perignon, MAC, ABSOLUT, Peroni, Coach, and Banyan Tree use Stewart’s skills as a social designer and connections through his company DEVIANT to enhance their brands through nightlife events, exhibitions, photo imaging and more.

Of the Korean market, Stewart says, “Branding is very integrated in terms of entertainment, but social branding has been quite slow, and you really have to network and build up your reputation. You could leave Korea for three months and come back and everything would be different.”

Apple Chow arrived in the Seoul office of the environmental group Greenpeace in August 2011 as reinforcement from Greenpeace East Asia’s Hong Kong headquarters. The campaigner of seven years has since helped Korea become the first Greenpeace office in the world to welcome two high-profile ship tours by the M.V. Esperanza in a single year. (Little known to most Korean citizens, fishers like tuna canner Dongwon are overrun with the use of destructive Fish Aggregating Devices [FADs] which are blamed for collapsing fish populations across the Pacific.)

“As one of the biggest distant water fishers in the world, the Korean government and industry has to take the lead in promoting fishing sustainability,” Chow explains. Of her motivation, she says, “We have to act now to ensure the next generation can still enjoy fish, or there will be nothing left for our kids.”

Camara Stewart

Apple Chow

10 Magazine October 2012 | 27

The Pioneer

Carla Freitas

GEMA (Global Engagement Management Associate) at Citibank Korea

Citi’s Carla Freitas is working abroad for the first time here in Seoul after being handpicked for GEMA, a program that develops Citi’s future global leaders. Hailing from Brazil, Freitas was selected for the program almost immediately after completing her MBA in the US. Freitas and the rest of Citi are actually pioneers in the Korean workplace, with three female leaders out of 12 in top management. Freitas herself is part of Citi’s Women Mentorship program, which pairs women workers with both mentors and mentees to help them build a support network and learn new skills. She says of the experience, “Diversity is encouraged here. I’ve had opportunities to present to large audiences, regardless of my sex, nationality and age.”

So far, Freitas has worked in the Markets and Cards business, contributing to the launch of the company’s new Facebook page and opening new Cards benefits programs. While Freitas will leave Seoul in 2013 for a second rotation in China, she says that a return to Seoul in the future is possible: “For Citi, Korea is a priority country and I really enjoy life here.”

The Developer Trey Freeman

Pr e si den t of AIG Kor e a Re a l E stat e Deve l opmen t

The Chief

The Innovator

G ene r a l M a n age r , M a r r io t t E x ec u t i ve A pa rt men t s a n d M a r r io t t C ou rt ya r d

C E O of G rou pM

Chris Lee

The world’s first Korean-born General Manager of a Marriott hotel, Chris Lee, has a lot to be happy about. This year, the Marriott Executive Apartments, one of the two hotels at which Lee is a GM, was chosen as the Global Hotel of the Year out of the brand’s 3,000 hotels worldwide.

Both the MEA and Lee’s other property, Marriott Courtyard, consistently rank among the highest in the Asia-Pacific Region for employee satisfaction.

“It feels great to be recognized. I am so proud of the team,” Lee says, always conscious of his employees’ work. According to him, the best part of being a GM is seeing the staff develop and gain new skills.

MEA’s recent success is representative of Korea’s travel industry at large. According to Lee. “Because of its geographic proximity to China, Korea is a booming place,” he says. “But the future will depend on the talent… so as GM, I have responsibility and pressure to develop every person.”

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Adam O’Neill

The ubiquitousness of marketing in a country as plastered with signage space as Korea has need of someone who can do it right. GroupM CEO Adam O’Neill hopes to deliver.

GroupM projects like LG’s crowdsourced YouTube movie Life in a Day and the sports-concentrated market entr y of energy drink Red Bull aim to change how Korea handles marketing by toning down on branding and upping actual enjoyment of ads.

O’ Nei l l fou nded GroupM Korea in January 2011 and has since grown the company to be a premier digital marketing agency in Korea, a country that is still catching up on digital trends. “Korean companies are good at spending money as quick ly as possible in traditional media... but they outsource their digital to small boutique agencies, so communication is really fragmented,” O’Neill says of local strategy. He adds, “In Korea the potential is higher and the pace is quicker, but there is a lot of learning we can bring from other regions.”

Korea’s—and Asia’s—biggest construction project of the year is Yeouido’s International Finance Center, an enormous mixed use development in the center of Seoul’s river-island financial district. IFC is being overseen by the city of Seoul and AIG Korea Real Estate Development, with American real estate mogul Trey Freeman at its head.

Arriving in 2007, Freeman immediately set to work on managing all aspects of the project, including the newly-opened IFC Mall as well as the Conrad Hotel, which will open in November of this year.

Developers hope that the IFC will help give the currently-faceless Yeouido a little more personality, transforming it into a big-city downtown with flavor, like Manhattan in the USA. The project is also the city’s first step in a macro-plan to turn Seoul into Northeast Asia’s financial center (hence the name). Of its potential, Freeman says, “There didn’t use to be many real estate developers in Korea, but interest is growing since the start of IFC.”

The Artisan

Dan Vroon ow ne r ,

C r a f t wor k s

When Dan Vroon opened Craftworks, Korea’s only existing microbrewery, in November of 2010, he set out to shake up the Korean perception of beer.

Originally from Canada, Vroon worked in food management in Toronto before ending up in Korea. He started brewing his own beer in college, making Craftworks the perfect venture for him to get back into the food and beverage industry. Though it took the company a few years before it could reach the legal size for outside distribution, Craftworks brews are now in 30 locations around the country, and Vroon says that the future is bright.

“The perception of beer in Korea is changing… People are going abroad and starting to notice, hey, beer is supposed to taste good!” he laughs. “In three years, I’d like to see a healthy string of taphouses and tasting rooms. I’d like to be in several hundred locations, with at least a dozen beers that all reflect the uniqueness of Korea.”

The Heavy Hitters The Changemaker Jasmine Lee

Repr esentative, Kor ea n National Assembly

Jasmine Lee would have made our list even before she was appointed Korea’s f i r st forei g n-bor n l awmaker this April. A talk show host, charity head, multicultural advocate and movie star, Jasmine Lee has been in the public eye for years, serving the foreignborn community and acting as a voice for migrant women nationwide.

Her appointment as an assemblywoman in 2012 was met with a storm of internet fury, with Korean netizens fabricating controversial campaign claims in an effort to ruin the new lawmaker’s reputation, flooding portals and message boards with racist language. Throughout the barrage, the new Representative Lee was silent, responding only to say that she hoped her future deeds would speak to her qualifications.

A naturalized Korean, Ms. Lee moved to Korea in 1995 after meeting and marrying her husband, a Korean sailor, in her native Davao City, the Philippines. In 2006, Lee started work as a translator and panelist on the KBS talk show “Love in Asia”, which chronicles the stories of multicultural families and migrant wives. Her entertainment work was followed by appointments and advocacy through the Center for Korean Women and Politics, Waterdrop Charity, the Seoul Global Center, and even as a speaker at the G20. She was first offered and declined political candidacy by the then-GNP in 2010, during the same year that her husband tragically passed away in an accident during a family vacation.

In an interview with the Korea Herald in 2011, Ms. Lee stated “If I have to be a politician to help these people, especially the kids, have a better place in society then I will.” With unbelievable grace and perseverance in the face of adversity and an understanding that transcends cultural barriers, Lee is set to be a changemaker in Korean society.

The Critic

The Gatekeeper

Au t hor a n d E di t or

Pr e si den t, Kor e a T ou r i sm Org a n i z at ion

B. R. Myers

O n e of t h e w or l d ’s m o s t prominent and controversial Western scholars on North Korea is an expat professor in Busan. American B.R. Myers, author of The Cleanest Race and Han Sorya and the North Korean Literature, teaches North Korean literature at Dongseo University, and he is also a contributing editor to American magazine The Atlantic.

Myers is also know n for his scathing literary reviews, having come into his editing position after publishing an essay called “The Reader’s Manifesto” in 2002. He has pushed the envelope on literary criticism ever since, taking down everyone from celebrated fiction debutant Jonathan Franzen to ha llowed literary genius Toni Morrison. In fact, the fame of Myers’ North Korea work pales in comparison to his ed it i n g for T he At la nt ic .

Myers’ success goes to show that for ex pats, you don’t always need to take advantage of your expat status in order to make it big.

Charm Lee

When German-born Korean citizen Charm Lee was appointed president of K TO i n 2 0 0 9, it w a s h e r a l d e d a s a s t e p for ward. Korea’s tourism industry struggled with branding and had been stagnant since 2005, with incoming tourism numbers hitting just above six million visitors for four years in a row. Since Lee’s appointment, the number of inbound tourists has grown steadily by over a million each year.

Though much or most of that mig ht be credited to private industries and natural development—the profit drivers behind airlines and Hallyu are most certainly not government-owned— KTO has also been swift in taking advantage of tourism trends and thorough in developing its foreign-language web content.

And while its “Visit Korea Year 2010-2012” was mocked for its lax counting standards, a million tourists a year can’t be wrong.

Lee’s track record has so far proven that putting a “foreigner” in charge of attracting foreign tourists to Korea wasn’t such a bad idea.

10 Magazine October 2012 | 29

Kor ean Desti nation

Reconstructing the Past at Namhansanseong Words by Matthew C. Crawford, shots courtesy Matthew C. Crawford and Namhansanseong Culture & Tourism Initiative

1636

I was slaving away in Hanseong at a Hangeul academy named Hunminjungeum Friends when the Manchus invaded our land for the second time. King Injo had offended this fierce barbarian tribe from the north and now here they were, creating havoc just like the Japanese had 30 years before.

Most of the royal family and members of the court escaped to Kanghwa Island, but the king fled to the southern mountain fortress, Namhansanseong. After consulting the ancient Book of Changes, Yeok Gyeong, I gathered my scrolls and followed the king’s entourage.

During my weeks at Namhansanseong, I was too frightened to enjoy mountain village life, though I did feast on wild rabbit stew, pheasant, and even some softshell turtle (for stamina of course). Not once did I dare take a stroll along the decrepit fortress walls. To my shame, I admit that I was almost relieved when the king had to surrender to those abominable Manchurian wild men.

30 | 10 Magazine October 2012

2005

A s punishment for my overindu lgences with makkeolli I was reborn in one of the realms of the hungry ghosts.

For what seemed like eternities I wandered in search of strong drink. Never could I satisfy my thirst because my neck was 18 meters long and my throat was no wider than a pinhole. In the year 2005, after several hundred years of suffering, I was reborn as an English teacher, once again in Hanseong – but now people called it Seoul. I had barely escaped being reborn as a worm. Or had I? I was working at English Friends.

One day I decided to visit Namhansanseong. The rain was spitting down and the broken down rock walls were abandoned to the mist and driving wind. From the South Gate, I passed fallen turrets and stone rubble to reach the precipitous drop down to the East Gate. As if directed by some forgotten memory, I wandered toward one of the several restaurants in the mountain village and ordered a steaming pot of rabbit stew.

Getting there

• Ride subway line #8 to Sanseong Station and take exit #1. Be sure to turn left along the construction fence and cross diagonally to the sidewalk along the main road. Continue past the girls’ middle school (on your right) to reach the bus stop.

• Bus #9, #9-1, and #52 all continue up to the inner mountain valley (산성리, “fortress village”).

• Bus #88 and #88-1 will take you to the bottom entrance of the park (남한산성 입 구) if you want to hike your way up. It takes about 30 minutes to reach the South Gate (남문).

E at i n g t h e r e

• Rabbit stew can be found cooked the old way at Dure (두레), located behind the Namhansanseong Management Office.

This seasonal stew is made for a group, and a 4-person serving will cost W50,000 in modern-day currency.

Dure • Restaurants including East Gate Garden (동문 가든) serve pheasant stew (W50,000 for a whole bird) and wild boar (W30,000 for 400 grams).

• Softshell turtle stew (용봉탕) is available at Cheongwhajeong restaurant (청왕정) near the North Gate, but it will cost W150,000 for this luxury dish.

• Duck cooked in a clay oven and stuffed with various delicious items (오리진흙구이) is served for 60,000 won at Hamjibak (함지박). It takes four hours to prepare so order in advance by calling (031) 744 7462.

Tips

2012

Soon after my second visit to Namhansanseong, I made and fulfilled a vow never to work in a language academy again, in this life or the next. By 2012, I was back in Seoul teaching at a university when I felt a desire to visit Namhansanseong once again. But when the bus passed through the tunnel into the fortress valley and I saw the new parking lots and weekend traffic congestion, I began to question the accuracy of my memory.

Many changes had taken place since my last visit. First of all, the walls had been reconstructed, though there are so many kilometers of parapets that this is a continual, ongoing process. Then I saw the newly rebuilt Temporary Palace, the place where King Injo took shelter during the Manchu siege. Before this four-year reconstruction project, there had been nothing but stone foundations and dirt mounds. Word has it that the community hopes to have Namhansanseong recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.

All this development made me feel like a ghost from the past. Later in the afternoon, when the weekenders began heading back to the parking lot, I would take a stroll along the wall. For now, though, I would head to the nearest restaurant, as it is certain that there will still be deodeok root wine and wild pig meat on the menu for a long time to come.

• The most scenic part of the wall may be the section between the East Gate (동문) and the North Gate (북문).

• When you run out of hiking stamina, simply take the nearest downward trail, as they all lead to the fortress valley.

• Cyclists and motorists will be delighted by the curvaceous road that skirts the outside of the wall for a good distance.

• If you have time, be sure to check out the Command Post in the West (수어장대).

• Most historical sites and temples close their gates at 5 pm.

• Water was not suitable for drinking at the time of writing.

Matthew Crawford has lived in South Korea for six years intermittently. He has accumulated thousands of travel miles visiting cities, mountains, and islands with abandon, yet somehow procrastinating year after year on doing a temple stay. Perhaps this fall­—, the beginning of year seven—, he will finally give it a try.

10 Magazine October 2012 | 31

F1! The world’s Festival of Speed Unique among tracks in the world, the F1 Grand Prix track in South Jeolla Province is set in idyllic nature rather than a bustling metropolis.

Designed by famous track designer Hermann Tilke, the Yeongam facility is state-of-the-art and provides a unique, seaside backdrop to the action.

It’s an incredibly challenging track full of twists and turns, and yet the straightaway has seen speed records made. Don’t miss this historic opportunity to experience the third ever F1 Grand Prix race held in Korea.

• Period • Venue • S ca l e

• Organizers

Friday, October 12th – Sunday 14th Korea International Circuit (Yeongam, Jeollanam-do) 12 teams, 24 drivers, 4,000 staff and 160,000 spectators FIZ, The Formula 1 Korean Grand Prix Organizing Committee

Schedule Fri 12 th Octobe r

Practice Session I : 10 am - 11:30 am Practice Session II : 2 pm - 3:30 pm

Sat 13 th Octobe r

Purchase your tickets on or before October 5th, you'll receive a 20% discount from the Korea Tourism Organization! Call 1330 for details.

Practice Session III 11 am - 12 pm Qualifying 2 pm - 3 pm

Su n 14th Octobe r

Race 3 pm

Ticket Price Ticket Types and Prices (KRW)

Grade

All-day-pass

Sun

Sat

Fri

R

Main Grand Stand

890,000

720,000 340,000

20,000

S

Grand Stand A

600,000

480,000

260,000

15,000

A

Grand Stand B,C,D,E,F,G,H,I,J,K

120,000

80,000

10,000

Ticketing websites: ticket.auction.co.kr, Koreangp.kr, formular1.com

Online Ticket Discount Target

Condition

Rates

Note

Early Birds

28 March – 30 April

30%

1 May – 31 May

20%

Youth

under 15

50%

-

Children

under 6

free

no seat for children

Disabled

-

50%

30% off for a companion

Sat & Sun day ticket only

In-person sales only (bring your ID): Discounts cannot be combined

Transportation Tr a n sportation Info

During the events, a free shuttle service via Korea International Circuit is available from the transit stops as follows: Muan Airport, Mokpo Train Station, Mokpo Bus terminal, Yeongam Samho Bus Terminal and three KIC Park and Rides.

KIC Car Parks are available for drivers with parking tickets. Non-Parking ticket holders can use a free shuttle service from KIC Park and Rides: Mokpo New Port, West Regional Headquarters Korea Coast Guard, Yeongam Korea Post Center.

By A ir

Gimpo Airport Muan Airport - KIC 2 Gimpo Airport Gwangju Airport Gwangju Bus Terminal Mokpo Bus Terminal KIC

1

By Tr a in (K T X ) 1 2

Yongsan Station (in Seoul)

Mokpo train Station

(arrive time: 8:39 am, 10:42 am, 11:11 am, 12:35 - 13 pm)

Mokpo Train Station

KIC

Accommodation Hote l

97 hotels, 5,471 rooms 2,728 bedrooms and 1,643 Korean style floor rooms Mote l

2,151 motels, 35,138 rooms 25,365 bedrooms and 9,773 Korean style floor rooms Tent camps, auto camping parks, traditional Korean guest houses, Temple Stays are also available.

Visit koreangp.kr for more information on accommodation.

Side Events • Drivers autograph session • Race grid event • K-POP concerts and more

By Bus

Mokpo Bus Terminal KIC Yeongam Samho Bus Terminal

1 2

KIC

2012 Formula 1 Korean Grand Prix TM

Book Tickets Now! ticket.auction.co.kr, www.koreangp.kr, www.formula1.com Phone us: 1588-3448 The F1 Formula 1 Logo, F!, Formula One World Championship, Korean Grand Prix and related marks are trade marks of Formular One Licensing BV, a Formula One group company. All rights reserved.

E d ite d by S o n i a H e n s l e y an d H wa yo o n l e e

Autumn Healing Package

Renaissance Seoul Hotel The Renaissance Seoul Hotel is offering an Autumn Healing Package for those seeking true healing and relaxation for the mind and body. The package includes a night in a deluxe room, complimentary breakfast for two, free in-room internet, two traditional Korean teas or fresh persimmon juices, a special giveaway “Healing Box” comprised of natural Canadian brand products, Fruit & Passion’s four aromatherapy products and a healing book, along with general benefits like access to the swimming pool and spa.

W309,000++ renaissance-seoul.com 02-2222-8500

+ : subject to 10% VAT, ++ : subject to 10% VAT and 10% service charge

Taste of Jeju, Organic Cuisine

Hyatt Regency Jeju Hotel Indulge in the tastes and flavors of Jeju with premiumquality organic food. Hyatt Regency Jeju Hotel’s Western restaurant, Terrace Café, is offering a selection of dishes and desserts featuring local organic ingredients such as organic Jeju chicken and abalone, Halla mountain pyogo mushrooms and Jeju blueberries. Available through October 31st. jeju.regency.hyatt.com 064-735-8485

Autumn Scenery Package

Novotel Ambassador Busan For the late vacationers, Novotel Ambassador Busan is offering the Autumn Scenery Package. The package includes coffee and cookies for two, free tickets to the hot spring sauna for two and free access to the fitness center and swimming pool as well as 10% off all hotel restaurants.

Guests can also use various sports facilities including golf, squash, billiards, and table tennis in the Ryan & Lillian Multi Sports Center at a 50% discount.

W180,000++ novotelbusan.com 051-743-1234

Indian Promotion

Oakwood Premier Coex Center Seoul The Residents’ Lounge, located on the fifth floor of Oakwood Premier Coex Center Seoul, proudly offers the new Indian Promotion. An Indian chef from Oakwood Premier Pune will visit Korea and prepare a menu of 25 authentic Indian dishes including starters, soup, main courses and dessert. Available from 9th October to 28th October. oakwoodpremier.co.kr 02-3466-7227

34 10 Magazine October 2012

Park Experience Package Park Hyatt Seoul Park Hyatt Seoul presents “Park Experience Package” for guests who want to relax and recharge while enjoying personalized service in a luxury boutique hotel. The package includes a one-night stay, a bottle of Aigles d’Aimery Merlot 2010, in-room Internet access, a special “Aperitivo Time” and a breakfast discount for hotel restaurant Cornerstone, as well as free access to the fitness studio, swimming pool and more. W360,000++ parkhyattseoul.co.kr 02-2016-1234

The Band Project

Novotel Ambassador Gangnam Visit Gran-A Entertainment Bar, located on the first floor, for an electric night with PROJECT. PROJECT is a mixed band with eight members offering powerful voices and an outstanding performance. The band will perform from 8:40 pm to 1:30 am, Monday through Saturday. Also, every night from 6 to 9 pm, Gran-A invites you to its Happy Hour: experience unlimited food, wine, beer with a live performance for just W29,000++. novotel.ambatel.com 02-531-6868

Pierre Gagnaire Packages

Autumn Spa Package

Grand Hyatt Seoul Grand Hyatt Seoul invites you to come and enjoy a relaxing Autumn Spa Package under the clear autumn skies. Spend a night in a comfortable luxury guestroom with a view of Namsan Mountain’s scarlet-tinged autumn leaves while enjoying a choice of relaxing, rejuvenating seasonal treatments at Grand Hyatt Seoul’s “The Spa”. W375,000++ seoul.grandhyatt.kr 02-799-8888

Uplifting Fall Singles Package

Courtyard by Marriott Many Koreans think of fall as a time for moody self-reflection, but Courtyard by Marriott chooses to believe the opposite.

This package includes a singleoccupancy Deluxe Room with fitness access, an in-room movie, room service, a voucher for book or movie sold in Korea, and all general hotel benefits. Available through November 30th.

W226,000++ or W286,000++ for an upgraded Executive Room. courtyardseoul.com 02-2638-3110~2

Lotte Hotel Seoul Enjoy the extraordinary culinary world of three Michelin-starred chef Pierre Gagnaire. The Pastry Package offers a onenight stay in a Deluxe Club Room, Club Lounge privileges for two, and courtesy flowers and cookies. It includes Pierre Gagnaire Champagne Afternoon Tea Set which serves two glasses of champagne.

Also on offer are the Bar and Restaurant packages, which provide benefits at Gagnaireowned venues in the hotel.

W330,000++ lottehotel.com 02-759-7311~5

Chuseok Package

Marriott Executive Apartments Marriott Executive With millions leaving Seoul for their hometowns, there is no better time to enjoy the city and the perfect October weather at a plush downtown luxury apartment. From September 28th to October 7th, enjoy a one-bedroom apartment at MEA with free fitness club and sauna access, a high-end sauna, a W50,000 gift certificate for the Park Café and more. W278,000++ measeoul.com 02-2090-8050 10 Magazine October 2012 | 35

Expat News October 2012 Edited by Sonia Hensley and Shannon Heit

Itaewon’s landmark Club Volume is born again as Club Able Club Able hosted its Grand Opening event on August 31, 2012. The club hosts parties throughout the week with rotating guest DJs and its own resident DJs, Dexter (aka Hellboy), Gon, Baekseung, Roem, Ginjo, and Yuntero. Happy hour drink specials are available from 10 pm to 12 pm. Entrance fee is W10,000 before midnight and W20,000 after the clock strikes twelve, with a “trendy dress code” enforced. Club Able is located near Noksapyeong Station (Line 6), exit 3 in the basement of the Crown Hotel that was formerly known as Club Volume. www.facebook.com/AbleSeoul 070-4130-3910

Oasis Guesthouse A new guesthouse has opened in Hongdae to serve visitors to Seoul. Hongdae, known for its club culture, hip art and foodie favorites lining the streets, is a great neighborhood for travelers to experience Seoul’s unique and dynamic culture, and Oasis Guesthouse is a place where guests can still feel as if they are at home in the neighborhood.

For foreigners or Koreans visiting Seoul, Oasis Guesthouse is not merely a place to sleep but a place where you can share and exchange culture. For more information, visit their Facebook page facebook.com/oasisguest or call 019-291-0945.

36 | 10 Magazine October 2012

Bilingual fortune telling offered at new bar Wit’s End Wit’s End, a stylish bar located in Itaewon, is offering bilingual Korean and English-language fortune-telling and tarot reading as part of its mystical and ambient concept. Grab a friend or love interest and hope your stars are aligned as you take advantage of the bar’s quiet, cozy interior and lavish cocktail menu.

As the only fortune telling venue in Itaewon, Wit’s End promises a fateful experience.

19th street, Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul.

010-5682-6909

USO hosts inaugural Red, White, and Blue Golf Tournament The bi-annual USO Golf Tournament, which has taken place for the past 15 years, has seen some changes and will reemerge as the first annual Red, White, and Blue Golf Tournament at the Sungnam Golf Course on October 19th, 2012. The event is a major fundraiser for the USO Korea, which serves the military men and women stationed throughout the country. Companies or individuals who would like to be a sponsor for the event have a wide choice of sponsorship options, ranging from 260,000 won ($230) to 2,800,000 won ($2,500). For more detailed information on how you can get involved, visit affiliates.uso.org/korea 02-749-6429

Citibank unveils new “Premium Wine Club” On August 30, 2012, Citibank Korea Inc. launched its new Premium Wine Club. Benefits include 10% discounts on wines selected by renowned sommeliers in Korea, a weekly Wine Table event and monthly Wine Moments event, and wine discounts at partnered merchants and wine shops. In addition, during Chuseok all members will be eligible for a 47% discount at Enoteca wine shop and a 30% discount at Cave wine shop. Citi Card customers can register for the membership through Citibank’s website or reservation center. www.citibank.co.kr 1577-0901

Crazybone, Likely underwear brand opens along Itaewon Rodeo Itaewon’s Rodeo street has another hip fashion brand to add to its list of new additions. Crazybone is an iconic, modern men’s fashion underwear brand made in Korea that has garnered fans worldwide with its “lifestyle” theme. Its new Itaewon shop also features its companion women’s underwear line, Likely. Check out the brand pair’s unique designs at 34-94 Itaewon-dong, across from Braai Republic and Boiling Crab. crazyboneshop.com / mylikely.com 070-8843-8979

Comings and Goings

Coming

Chris Kenneally moved to Korea in June with his wife Donna and their youngest daughter Georgia to take on his new position as President of Tetra Pak Korea. The Kenneallys, originally from Australia, have previously resided in Beijing, Shanghai, Hong Kong and for the past four years in Italy - where they have set up their family home. Chris’ team ensured he was introduced to the culinary delights of Korea from the outset with live octopus & fermented skate on the opening night menu. Chris & Donna both feel that Seoul has been a most welcoming city to move into and they look forward to the years ahead.

Going

Power Couple Jessica Tychsen and Nolan Townsend were almost in the cover story - until they found out they were headed to Kiev, Ukraine this month! They were introduced by a mutual friend in NYC and married in Martha’s Vineyard on 9-10-11. They ensured that their time in Korea was well represented at the wedding as guests enjoyed soju-based cocktails and custom engraved chopsticks.

A Harvard Business School MBA grad, Nolan was Marketing & Strategic Planning Director at Pfizer Korea and the only expat in his division, helping him perfect his Korean dinner and drinking skills. He has grown to truly value the bonding and business relationships that are strengthened on account of it.

Jessica, originally a professional in HR with experience at Bridgewater Associates and Credit Swiss, wasted no time getting involved in the community upon arrival to Seoul 2 years ago.

She joined the Seoul International Women’s Association (SIWA) and took a position on their board as well as on the spring gala committee and co-chairing the 50th Anniversary Luncheon. She is currently the Seoul American Women’s Club (AWC) President.

Position opening ladies!

10 Magazine October 2012 | 37

Gastronomic News October 2012 Edit ed by Son i a H ensley a n d Sh a n non H ei t

Ho Lee Chow to open its 7th branch in Myeongdong

The Bigmug Reinvents the Local Coffee Shop As Itaewon bulks up on franchises, the Bigmug has upgraded their menu to produce a haven for the laid-back, local coffee shop lover. Offering traditional menu items such as Americanos, lattes, and teas in generous big mugs, Bigmug has a flare for homestyle, serving real melted hot chocolate and freshly-made desserts and waffles. Diverge from the traditional coffee shop experience and head west coast with various lemonades and tomato and cheese sandwiches straight off a hot panini press. Spacious outdoor seating can be found in both the front and back and sets a good mood for cocktails. A variety of beer is avalable, along with a plethora of cocktails from vodka cranberries to light Bellinis and savory sangrias. 305-5 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul. 010-5639-2476

Ho Lee Chow, Korea’s only American-style Chinese food restaurant chain, will open its 7th ROK location in Myeongdong in September of 2012. There are currently Ho Lee Chow locations operating in Itaewon, Apgujeong, Jamsil, Dogok, Bundang and Yeouido. With cooks who have been trained expertly on the art of the wok, Ho Lee Chow’s authentic Chinatown fare and excellent customer service have made it a popular place among expats and Koreans alike and the new location in Myeongdong is expected to be just as popular for both Seoul residents and tourists. For more information, please visit www.holeechow.co.kr

Le Cafe brings healthy, organic coffee beans to HBC Located in Haebangchon, “Le Cafe - Smalltown Coffee Roaster” roasts its coffee with beans that make up the top 1% of USDA-approved, premium, organic coffee beans. Start your morning off right with Le Cafe’s healthy coffee to have a healthy, energetic day.

Buddha’s Belly Shapes Up Popular Thai restaurant Buddha’s Belly has moved to a unique new location. Located above Berlin Restaurant and Lounge, the bright new contemporary space features rich touches of Thai and two floors of invigorating views. Executive chef Santi Chandet has rolled out an exciting menu blending everyone’s go-to Thai favorites and fresh ideas from his seasoned staff. Open from October 5th, reservations can be made at 02-796-9330.

38 | 10 Magazine October 2012

In the K itchen

Making Sense of the Crazy Chef

Chef Hyun-seok Choi Elbon the Table

“I

’d never studied cooking before working in my first restaurant,” says Hyun-seok Choi, head chef at Elbon the Table located in restaurant-haven Garosu-gil in southern Seoul. Yet, in 2010 the restaurant was selected by the panel of Pellegrino’s World’s 50 Best Restaurants. Chef Choi has his own TV show. And now he may be ready to take on the world.

Choi is one of Korea’s best known chefs, known as the “Crazy Chef ” for unusual recipes that fuse Korean ingredients into a variety of cuisines. Choi laughs at the moniker, but says at the end of the day, he just wants people to enjoy his food.

“I want to surprise people eating at my restaurant. I think our international diners get the most excited about my food,” says Choi. Maybe this is because he introduces the novelty of Korean ingredients while at the same time as offering a reinterpretation of modern European cuisine.

Take the fois gras kochu-chang ice cream. Kochu-chang is a spicy red paste used in Korean cooking. Choi transforms this key Korean ingredient into a thick glob of ice cream, set upon a slice of warmed fois gras, layered upon a slice of cooked banana.

The sweet-spicy piquancy of the kochu-jang jolts the mouth as it melts. Choi explains that the ice cream is cooled using liquid nitrogen that heightens the sweet-salty taste. The molecular gastronomy technique sets the kochu-chang up to compliment the unctuous, yet delicate, fois gras. The banana rounds out the flavors to complete the dish as a dessert.

The international stage beckons too. “I would love to open restaurants worldwide. And for me, the priority isn’t to get stars.

I just want to surprise people, make sure they have fun eating.”

Wor ds an d shots by Vaughan Wallis

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Goyang International Music Festival 2012 “Melody of autumn, Harmony of Peace” Hear world-class musicians in the country’s best classical music festival. This year’s festival will feature 260 renowned performers from 13 different countries, playing together in harmony to spread the message of peace.

October 6th - November 17th at Aram Concert Hall, Goyang Aram Nuri Arts Center.

For reservations and inquiries, contact 1577-7766 or visit www.gimf.or.kr / www.artgy.or.kr.

NATIONWIDE 42 • SEOUL 46 • GaNGwon PROVINCE 63 • GYEONGGI PROVINCE 64 • CHUNGCHEONG PROVINCE 66 JEOLLA PROVINCE 67 • GYEONGSANG PROVINCE 68 • JEJU ISLAND 70 • NETWORKING CALENDAR 71

Movies

by Pau l Mat t h e w s

Abraham Lincoln: Vampire Hunter Directed by Timur Bekmambetov

The film is an odd mishmash of genres, never quite knowing whether it wants to become full-on campy horror or stay within the realms of serious drama. Abraham Lincoln: Vampire Hunter manages to be both ridiculous and boring for the entirety of its running time. The large set pieces lack excitement and the overabundance of CGI gives the movie a dull, cartoonish feel.

We’re also treated to a plodding performance from Benjamin Walker, who lacks the charisma to pull off the main role, with his fake Lincolnesque nose having far more screen presence than the dull, axewielding President it is attached to.

A sorely disappointing film. Unless you enjoy dreary period dramas mixed with digital blood and a soupçon of bad acting, avoid this turgid nonsense.

On paper, a Civil War action-horror about Honest Abe slaughtering vampires from the director of Night Watch and Wanted sounds like fun. Add a producing credit from Tim Burton and you might think it to be a surefire hit or at least a good way to waste a couple of hours... You’d be wrong.

Timur Bekmambetov shows us an alternative history of America in the 1800s. We see Abraham Lincoln (Benjamin Walker) grow from child to man as he deals with vampires, slavery and the death of his parents. When he meets up with the mysterious Henry Sturgess (Dominic Cooper) he starts a new life as a vampire hunter and we follow him into his presidency and the war that awaits.

Doomsday Book 인류멸망보고서, 2011 Directed by Kim Ji-woon and Yim Pil-sung

Classics of Korean Cinema

3-Iron 빈집, 2004 Directed by Kim Ki-duk

With the world supposedly coming to an end this year, Doomsday Book offers us three short films all themed around the destruction of mankind. This project may have started out six years ago, but has finally reached the DVD shelves this fall. For fans of Kim Ji-woon and science fiction it may well have been worth the wait.

The film starts with two shorts from Yim Pil-sung, Brave New World and Happy Birthday; these are followed by Heavenly Creature from Kim Ji-woon. In his first short, Yim shows us zombified meateaters who have been infected from a batch of bad beef, and then goes all-out in his second with the possible destruction of the earth. Kim prefers to go a little more low-key, inviting us to contemplate whether a robot in the future could achieve Buddhist enlightenment.

Like most omnibus features, Doomsday Book is a mixed bag.

There are some interesting ideas thrown into the shorts; some work and some don’t, but it is Kim Ji-woon’s thoughtful exploration of the mind that makes this collection worth seeking out. If you’re a fan of Korean science fiction, then this deserves a look.

42 | 10 Magazine October 2012

This month Kim Kiduk is being honored with the Douglas Sirk Lifetime Achievement Award at the Hamburg Film Festival, a well-deserved prize f o r o n e o f Ko r e a ’s most important directors. It seems like the perfect time to revisit his back catalogue with 3-Iron, the film which won him the Best Director Award and the FIPRESCI Best Film Award at the Venice Film Festival back in 2004.

Kim takes us into the world of Tae-suk (Jae-hee), a strangely honest trespasser who breaks into empty homes, stays a few nights, and leaves each place in a better state than he found it. Then he meets Sun-hwa (Lee Seung-yeon) and everything changes.

The film takes its time inviting you into the strange, solitary world of Tae-suk, but despite its slow pace it is gripping, allowing the viewer space to appreciate the relationship being formed onscreen. It’s strange, it’s wonderful, and it’s ultimately a beautifully painful examination of an odd couple brought together under extraordinary circumstances in a very ordinary world. 3-Iron is a great introduction to the work of Kim Ki-duk and offers a different perspective on Korean life to what you might find in mainstream cinema.

New This Month October 3rd

Dates are subject to change.

October 11th

Ghost Sweepers 점쟁이들 Korea. Comic/ Horror. Kim Soo-ro, Kang Ye-won, Lee Je-hoon; dir. Sin Jeong-won.

NATIONWIDE

Don 2 India. Action/Thriller.

Shahrukh Khan, Priyanka Chopra; dir. Farhan Akhtar.

October 4th

13 USA. Drama/Thriller. Sam Riley, Alice Barrett, Gaby Hoffmann; dir. Gela Babluani.

Searching for Sugar Man UK/Sweden.

Documentary. Malik Bendjelloul; dir. Malik Bendjelloul.

Dangerous Liaisons 위험한 관계 Korea/ China/Singapore. Romance/Drama.

Jang Dong-gun, Zhang Ziyi, Cecilia Cheung; dir. Heo Jin-ho.

October 18th

A Company Man 회사원 Korea. Action/ Drama. So Ji-sub, Lee Mi-yeon; dir. Lim Sang-yoon.

Suspect X 용의자 X Korea. Mystery. Ryoo Seung-bum, Lee Yo-won, Jo Jingwoong; dir. Bang Eun-jin.

Bittersweet Joke 미쓰마마 Korea.

Documentary. dir. Paik Yeon-ah.

Looper USA. SF/Action. Joseph GordonLevitt, Bruce Willis, Emily Blunt; dir. Rian Johnson.

October 26th

Lawless USA. Crime/Drama.

Tom Hardy, Shia LaBeouf, Guy Pearce; dir. John Hillcoat.

No Greater Love UK. Documentary. dir. Michael Whyte.

Star 스타: 빛나는 사랑 Korea. Drama/ Romance. Hwan hee, Kim Soo-yeon, Kang Yo-hwan; dir. Han Sang hee.

Red State USA. Action/Mystery. Michael Parks, Melissa Leo; dir. Kevin Smith.

SKYFALL UK/USA. Action. Daniel Craig, Helen McCrory, Javier Bardem; dir. Sam Mendes.

October 31st

A Werewolf Boy 늑대소년 Korea. Drama/ Fantasy. Song Joong-ki, Park Bo-yeong; dir. Jo Sung-hee.

Television

by S oy e o n K i m b e r ly Yo o n

New KBS drama starts a dispute with its controversial title: 차칸 남자 KBS faces an unusual controversy due to the intentionally misspelled title of its new drama– but either way, Innocent Man has succeeded in grabbing public attention from its first episode.

Korean is considered one of the most difficult foreign languages to learn – and it’s understandable, considering many Koreans themselves get confused with spelling, pronunciation, and honorific expressions.

With increasing numbers of teenagers using slang, jargon, and neologisms, parents and teachers are concerned with whether the

younger generation will be able to learn proper usage of the Korean language. In the midst of rising concerns, new KBS drama (The One and Only) Innocent Man (세상 어디 에도 없는 차칸 남자) has been embroiled in a controversy due to the misuse of language in its title.

The Korea Communication Standards Commission filed to go through a deliberation about the title of the new show. The commission argues that the title 차칸 남자 (Innocent Man), which is supposed to be spelled “착 한 남자”, is inappropriately using the national language and has potential to mislead young viewers. In response, KBS staff justified the title by saying the intentional misspelling was done to describe the main character, MaRoo (played by Song Joong-Ki), a man who used to be innocent but now burns with a desire for vengeance on Jae-Hee (played

by Park Si-Yeon), his ex-lover, who betrays him and marries the owner of the Taesan conglomerate.

Some viewers agree with the commission, arguing that such an influential broadcast-

er should not misspell words in their titles, while some have ridiculed the commission for overreacting. (On September 18th, KBS staff decided to rename the title to “착한 남 자”, using the proper spelling, in order to please the opposition). Although the staff suffered from the issue, the new drama has definitely succeeded in becoming a hot topic of conversation among viewers. With skilled actors like Song Joong-Ki, Park SiYeon, and Moon Chae-Won starring, the drama has been able to speedily develop the overall plot, which is a tangle of love, revenge, death, and agony.

The drama’s first episode, aired on September 12th, received positive reviews for its gripping story and thrilling plot, which completely change the life of the “innocent man”. (The One and Only) Innocent Man airs on Wednesday and Thursday at 9:55 pm on KBS2.

Kimberly Yoon is a New Yorker who found her way back to Korea as a consumer market analyst. She loves music and guacamole, and has recently co-authored The Rules of Winner - Innovation by ERI of KPMG Korea.

10 Magazine October 2012 | 43

Music The Black Seeds

Dust & Dirt Remote Control Records Is it really possible to have too much of a g o o d thin g?

In the case of New Zealand’s primary exponents of leading edge soul-infused reggae, the answer is a resounding NO! Building on the solid foundation laid down in 2008’s Solid Ground, the highly–regarded octet are back with an album that takes their signature sound to a stratospheric level. Thirteen tunes, all craf ted with meticulous attention to detail and given stellar production, make this release a certifiable winner. An abundance of aural riches makes it hard to pick one or two “best” tunes – they’re ALL that good – but some standouts worthy of mention include the seriously funkreggae powered “Loose Cartilage” and “Don’t Turn Around”; the Pimps of Joytimeinspired “Cracks in Our Crown”; the silky, vibe-laden Brit-reggae (Black Slate/Steel Pulse) of “Gabriel’s Strut Dub” and “Love Me Now”; and the progressive, uplifting passion of “The Bend”. New Zealand has long punched above its weight in the reggae/dub arena, and this album is a perfect example of why.

by M ic h a e l Be rry

Books

Gulag Peninsula

The Solutions

Self-Titled Happy Robot Records Another release from an increasingly adventurous Korean music scene that eschews the strictures binding artists to the K-Pop mindset and opens out on to a more original and creative horizon. The Solutions are a duo (Naru: Guitars, Bass, Keyboards/ Programming, and Vocals), and Park Sol (Vocals, Acoustic Guitars, Chorus) who deftly combine musical elements drawn from styles as varied as chillwave, indie rock/pop, electro, and rock & roll to deliver a refreshing nu-pop sound.

Noteworthy tunes include “Talk, Dance, Party For Love” with its Brit-pop fusion front and centre; “Lines”, a chillwave ode to one’s sense of self; the Billy Joel–ish piano derivations that drive “Silence”, and the more overt rock influences that delineate “Otherside”. With the exceptions of the ballad “Mi Ro” and the radio edit of “Lines”, which are sung in Korean, all other songs offer up English lyrics, adding an increasing element of sophistication to an already superior production.

by M ic h a e l Be rry

Kara Pandora DSP Media It’s been a busy summer for Korean pop. With the global recognition of Psy’s “Gangnam Style” and BoA’s epic comeback, the bar for August’s releases was far above anything most artists could hope to surpass. But before G-Dragon released his new solo single, Kara revealed a new side to their infamous girl-pop on minialbum PANDORA. One of the longer surviving groups and more successful to crossover in Japan, Kara may have longevity behind them, but not the track record. While they may have personality behind the songs, PANDORA never steps outside the myth’s legendary box; rather than containing a motley collection, the minialbum sticks to typical synth-pop numbers like the title track along with hints of R&B and fantasy-destination steel drums on “Way” and “Idiot” respectively. But without a single track worthy of the wonder and awe of a box filled with the world’s sublime, Kara’s PANDORA will remain a forgotten footnote of K-pop’s breathtaking summer. by A n n a Or z e l

by J o h n M e n s i n g

Chun regimes, and the mendacity of the Sunshine Policy, suggests that the difference between the bi-polar political cultures is one of degree but not of kind.

The supposition that Camp 14’s rhythms of repression course through domestic life, through the various levels of institutional organization and down to the microcosm of family and other interpersonal relations, is hard to resist.

The evidence that such tyrannical rhythms beat through hearts in the South as well—as documented in Korea Betrayed—is preponderant.

A difficult read, Kirk’s clunky narrative is at turns repetitive and obscure: he offers a biography of DJ, a condensed chronicle of South Korea’s human rights fiascos, and plausible rationales for those abuses, a sincere accomplishment. Kirk lambasts the Sunshine Policy as a fraudulent ploy by DJ to earn himself a Nobel Prize at the expense of Korea’s national security and human rights interests. DJ’s meeting with Kim Jong-il was won with secret bribes, as much as eight billion dollars worth, money which then went to nuclear weapons and more state terror mechanisms. The Nobel Prize itself emerges tainted, but the possibility that genuine forbearance toward the North might eventually diffuse tensions remains elusively difficult to disprove.

Blaine Harden’s breezy reportorial style poorly suits a book, but he stretches it to fit Escape from Camp 14: One Man’s Remarkable Odyssey from North Korea to Freedom in the West (2012, 205 pages), a primer on North Korea and a refreshingly quick read. The protagonist, Shin Dong-hyuk, has the distinction of being the only escapee from a North Korean prison camp to have emerged into the relative fame of media outlets and human rights organizations.

Additionally, he was born and bred in these camps, the offspring of inmates. The horror recounted here is prolific, and quite accessible.

Harden sets Shin’s story within the context of the DPRK’s economic and political culture. While portrayed as singularly repressive/repulsive, these labor camps bear striking familiarity to those documented in China. Shin sees South Koreans as tragically indifferent to the sufferings of their Northern relations, a sentiment eerily familiar to the indifference he was raised to exude toward his fellow prisoners, on whom he routinely snitched.

An explanation for that tragic indifference to Camp 14 which Shin and Harden decry in the South can be found in Korea Betrayed: Kim Dae Jung and Sunshine by Donald Kirk (2009, 249 pages). Kirk’s account of the political repression of the Rhee, Park, and Are you a bona fide bibliophile?

Search and join the 10 Magazine Book Club on Facebook. Last month, 44 | 10 Magazine October 2012 the club met Shin Dong-hyuk, the subject of Escape from Camp 14.

Tech & Gear Game Discount Mall 게임 전문 할인 상가 Yongsan Electronics Town, Seoul

With cold weather rapidly approaching, you now have every excuse to sit inside, stay warm and play some video games! But there is no reason to pay top dollar when the Game Discount Mall at Yongsan Electronics Market has a wide selection of used, discounted and even vintage games as well as consoles and handhelds.

Located in the basement of the car park building behind the old Yongsan terminal, this 200 m hallway is brimming with independent retailers selling games and consoles for almost every game system since the Nintendo Famicon. Vintage gamers will find various iterations of the Nintendo Gameboy nestled between used copies of more recent games for the PS3 and Xbox 360. And if you have a console from outside of Korea, you’ll more than likely find games for it here, rather than hav-

ing to pay horrendous shipping costs when buying online.

Most if not all of the sellers will want you to pay in cash, so visit the ATM on the way there.

But with cash comes the ability to bargain: ask for between W5,000 and W10,000 off the purchase price when buying more than one game, or more if you have decided to indulge and spend big! Also be sure to check the quality of your purchase. The proprietors are happy to let you have a hands-on look at what you are potentially buying. Shoppers should check that CDs and BluRay discs don’t have too many scratches (they are used) or that the special edition Pokemon original Gameboy you’re about to buy does, in fact, power up.

by Sta f ford Lu msde n Stafford has written the Tech and Gear column for 10 Magazine since June 2010. Other technology punditry includes a fortnightly 30-minute segment on Seoul’s TBS eFM 101.3 radio station and as a founding blogger at nanoomi.net.

Startup of the Month Vingle.net With an 83% increase in startups over the last four years, Korea is a fertile ground for tech companies. Various social and curation services are now popping up all the time. Curation site Vingle, the new project from the founders of crowds o urce - subtitlin g m e gahit startup Viki, is one such service.

Vingle allows users to share text, images and videos from any website. The nature of the site’s content varies from travel to fo o d to enter t ainment, fashion and DIY. On the main page, users can check out what’s popular or view a feed of personally-selected categories. In just its first four months, Vingle reached 600,000 unique monthly visitors.

Jiwon Moon and Changseong Ho, the founders of Vingle, invested US $1 million into the site from their first project Viki. On Viki, users can watch foreign dramas

and movies with translated subtitles in nearly 150 different languages. Translation is done

by Viki members who are all volunteers.

Like Viki, the Vingle platform has no limit to the number of languages it supports and in theory any language can be used. The most active languages are currently English, Spanish, Indonesian, Korean, Thai and French. By the end of the beta period, the number of active languages on the service is expected to pass ten. Users can easily move between multiple languages, even within individual categories. Vingle is also currently developing a mobile app to be released in September.

by A n dy T e bay Andy Tebay is an editor at VentureSquare.net, Korea’s first online media outlet specializing in Korean startup news, content and programs.

nationwide Hotlines 119 Emergency 112 Police 114 Directory Assistance Human Rights and Discrimination 1331 1339 Medical Information Center This is a 24-hour, nationwide hospital information service available in English, Korean, Chinese and Japanese.

Foreigner Assistance/Translation BBB 24-hour Language

1588-5644 Assistance 1330 KTO Tourism 24-hr Infoline Korea Immigration immigration.go.kr 1345 Korean Customs customs.go.kr 1577-8577 02-120 Seoul Dasan (city info)

Investment Assistance KOTRA kotra.or.kr Invest Korea investkorea.org

02-3460-7114 1600 -7119

Korean Banks Shinhan Bank Seoul Global Center 1st Floor, Seoul Finance Center 84 Taepyungro 1-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul

02-773-3131 Korea Exchange Bank (KEB 외환은행) keb.co.kr 1544-3000 SC First Bank (SC 제일은행) scfirstbank.com 02-3702-3114

Major Foreign Banks American Express americanexpress.co.kr 02-2000-8100 Australia & New Zealand 02-3700-3100 Banking Group China Construction Bank ccbseoul.com

02-6730-1718 Citibank citibank.co.kr 02-3455-2114 02-724-4500 Deutsche Bank

BNP Paribas bnpparibas.co.kr 02-317-1700 1588-1770 HSBC

Transportation flyasiana.com 1588-8000 Asiana flyairbusan.com 1588-8009 Busan Air jejuair.net 1599-1500 Jeju Air koreanair.com 1588-2001 Korean Air Intercity Express Bus kobus.co.kr 1588-6900 Korea Railroad Corp. korail.com 1544-7788 Seoul/Gyeonggi Interactive Subway smrt.co.kr Map Mobeom Taxi Service Nationwide 1588-2255 The nationwide “black taxi” number will put you in touch with a driver who speaks English, but these taxis cost about twice as much as taxis from the rest of the color spectrum. Otherwise call 1330 for regular taxis in your area.

Pizza Delivery Order Nationwide English-speaking Service 1577-3082 Domino’s 1577-8080 Papa John’s 1588-5588 Pizza Hut

10 Magazine’s Free Weekly Events Email Be the first to know about the hottest events happening all over the country each week.

Sign up at 10mag.com/weekly10 10 Magazine October 2012 | 45

Food Review

L’Angolo: The Most Romantic Italian in Seoul?

A

Words and shots By Joe Mcpherson

fter hearing amazing buzz, we decided to check out legendary chef Sebastiano Giangregorio’s new upscale bistro L’Angolo atop Namsan Mountain for lunch. Sebastiano himself greeted each and every diner, many of whom looked like they were on expense accounts. This is a serious restaurant with serious food.

To judge an Italian restaurant, get the antipasti platter, as it is basically naked Italian ingredients on a plate. If the antipasti are good and genuine that means that the rest of the food uses good and genuine ingredients. And my, L’Angolo’s antipasti were the best I’ve had in Seoul. Thinly sliced sausages, unique olives that weren’t too briny, hard cheese that matched the onion confit perfectly.

We splurged a bit and also ordered the foie gras appetizer, which gave the fatty duck liver some complimentary friends of thinly sliced celery and apple. Almost perfect! My only wish was that the bread it was served on was thinner and more toasted so that its girth and texture would pleasantly contrast rather than overwhelm the other ingredients.

It was at this point that we were asked why we were taking photos of the food. When I take photos in restaurants, I try to be discreet so I won’t distract other diners. But we were informed that photos were discouraged, and magazines have to inform 46 | 10 Magazine October 2012

ahead of time if they’re going to take pictures.

This hurt us a bit. We pride ourselves at 10 Magazine in keeping our anonymity when reviewing restaurants. The dirty little secret of food writing in Seoul is that it’s normal for magazines and bloggers to trade good press for free food or other perks. We don’t play that game. And while I’ve heard that fine dining restaurants don’t like cameras, even Eleven Madison Park in New York, considered one of the finest in fine dining, allows photos as long as you don’t bother other guests.

However, that was not the case with L’Angolo. I had to either tell them where we came from or just cancel the meal. Readers should know that from the entrées on, the restaurant knew who we were.

The pork collar I ordered came out cooked perfectly with rich scents of rosemary, which always makes me think of Tuscany. We also had the most perfect pillowy gnocchi with tomato sauce and smoked cheese.

The service was sharp, and despite the hiccup we truly enjoyed the experience. L’Angolo should be near the top of best date restaurants in Seoul.

The food is seductive. And afterward, you can take in one of the most commanding views in Seoul.

10 Magazine reimburses Joe for his meals and never notifies restaurants that they will be reviewed.

English, Italian and Korean menu Outside terrace Amazing vegetarian options Not too accessible Reservation Accepted W20,000-W75,000 per entrée Excellent Italian cuisine and view Can be a bit too expensive for the value 02-792-2020 268 Sowol-ro, Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu Lunch 12 – 2:30 pm; dinner 6 - 9 pm

Joe McPherson is the founder of the legendary food blog ZenKimchi. He is president of ZenKimchi International, which produces food tours, events and even smartphone apps.

서울 SEOUL

Dalbit Maru: Contemporary Korean Cuisine

The Korean blogosphere is buzzing about Dalbit Maru (달빛마루), a restaurant that puts a modern spin on Korean classics. Located near Hyehwa Station, this converted hanok is hung with mismatched artwork that matches its traditional-meets-new food philosophy.

Dalbit Maru’s steamed pork belly looks like samgyeopsal but with a more vibrant red color and a decidedly smokier taste. Served with a large salad, a pile of roasted garlic, and soy barbecue dipping sauce, it feels like an updated version of the barbecue experience. The restaurant’s take on bulgogi is equally exciting. Ribbons of tender beef, along with mushroom and onion, take on a flavor that is little sweet, a little spicy, and a little smoky. The long menu also includes a variety of salads, soups, savory pancakes, and mains that play on ramen and teokbokki, to name a few. Most dishes run between W10,000 - W25,000, and the menu is available in both Korean and English. Beer, wine, soju, and sake are also available.

83-4 Myeongnyun 4-ga, Jongno-gu. 02-742-6786

Wor d s an d shots by Am a n da Sl av i n sk y

Kodachaya

Japanese dining can range from the delicate to the practical, from the hallowed art of sashimi to the streetfood standard of skewered meat.

Kodachaya is a dining experience that can offer a taste of each. The restaurant is tastefully set up as a small market where dedicated chefs attend cart-like stations. After being given a pager, diners may approach each station to order their dishes, and are paged when their food has been prepared. Kodachaya’s Osakastyle okonomiyaki, a savory pancake, is nicely balanced here, while the kimchi variety on offer subtly adds an undertone of heat to the dish.

Sashimi is prepared with traditional Japanese simplicity, a welcome break from fusion varieties that meddle with mayonnaise and American cheese. For those who like more local fare, Korean dishes like tteokbokki and pajeon are also available. From spicy chicken feet to diced live octopus, there is no shortage of variety in this market-style Mecca of food. Directions: From Apgujeong Station, Exit 5 walk straight for five minutes. Turn left at the Fika Swedish Coffee shop. Kodachaya is on the corner on your right.

Wor ds an d shots by M ic h a e l Joh nston e 10 Magazine October 2012 | 47

Art

Steve McCurry: Between Darkness and Light Through October 21st, Seoul Arts Center, Nambu Bus Terminal

서울 SEOUL

Seoul Arts Center is hosting a five-week exhibition of Steve McCurry’s most riveting photographs.

McCurry is a world-renowned American photojournalist best known for his iconic “Afghan Girl” photo, which was exhibited in his first Seoul show in 2010. His new exhibition at SAC features 97 photographs depicting darkness and light through notions of visibility, color, intrinsic power, and space composition.

The exhibition’s first section emphasizes the importance of visibility or a lack of it.

Abandoned cars in Kuwait are left in the dark only to become visible through the intense blaze of oil well fires. A shattered mirror reflects an ambiguous shadowy figure, alluding to a sense of inner invisibility. Many of the photographs leave the viewer wondering about a missing or invisible element. In one, the neon lights of Hong Kong create a great sense of visibility, and yet a driver’s object of interest remains unknown. In another, the subject appears to be a black and white cat, but it is only through the shadows that the presence of a person is revealed.

The importance of color appears in the second part of the exhibit. Using walls, buildings, cars, food, clothes, and jewelry, McCurry portrays the attracting presence of color. A remarkable image showing a bright red umbrella and two men dressed in red shirts manages to distract attention away from the beautiful white Taj Mahal in the backdrop. The vibrant blue buildings and the red clothes of the people dominate an image of the city of Jodhpur, India.

Whether it is the purple and green colored walls in Havana, the colorful vegetable market in Kashmir, the bright yellow burqa of an Afghan woman, or the fluttering multi-

48 | 10 Magazine October 2012

colored Tibetan prayer flags in the mountainside, all of the photographs succeed in highlighting the significance and beauty of color.

Photographs in the third section hint at intrinsic power of the forces of nature and time. Despite a harsh dust storm, two determined Rajasthani men haul their camels through the desert. In Varanasi, India, a young man exerts himself pushing his bicycle rickshaw carrying two passengers through a wild rainstorm. Another photograph demonstrates the unyielding power of time through a weathered portrait of a man in Kuwait. The power of youthfulness is depicted in photographs of naked boys fearlessly leaping off walls into unknown waters in Bangladesh, as well as youths jumping off concrete buildings in the Sahel Desert.

In the fourth and final section, McCurry’s photographs illustrate space composition. Space is first expressed by framing a couple amongst a teeming flock of pigeons

just outside a mosque in Afghanistan. Next, space limitations are conveyed through images of crowds. In Rajasthan, during the Holi festival, a man in a green turban is surrounded by a group of men in red turbans, and barely has space to move. A photograph of people crowded on a train, with bicycles hanging on the outside, provides an impression of limited space. Conversely, the presence of only a few people or objects reveals the notion of empty space. Photographs of an empty building with open doors, or the tiny silhouettes of soldiers within the vast snowy landscapes of Kashmir, heighten this effect.

To explore and appreciate McCurry’s photography, head to the V-Gallery at the Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Bus Terminal. This special exhibition is only running for a few weeks until October 21st, 2012. Admission runs from W6,000 to W10,000. For more information visit sac.or.kr or call 02-511-2931.

Wor d s by R aj n e sh Sh a rm a

FROM TO P LE F T

Chiang-Mai, Thailand, 2011; Boy in mid-flight, Jodhpur, India, 2007; Snow blankets Times Square, New York, 1994; Actor Robert De Niro in his screening room in Tribeca, New York, 2010, USA; Fisherman on Inle Lake, Burma, 2008

Design & Fashion Ongoing Free Market and Hope Market On weekend afternoons, stop by the playground at Hongdae for some fashionable finds. The Free Market, held every Saturday, focuses on fashion accessories, while the Hope Market on Sundays offers more in the way of arts and crafts. Located close to Hongik Univ.

Stn. (line 2) and Sangsu Stn. (line 6). 1 - 6 pm. cafe.daum.net/artmarket and cafe.daum.net/hopemarket October 22nd – 28th

Ongoing Kohei Nawa Exhibition: Trans The first young artist to successfully exhibit at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Tokyo, Kohei Nawa now comes to both Cheonan and Seoul. The Trans and PixCell-Deer series features beads, prisms, texture mapping and more. Arario Gallery Seoul near Cheongdam Stn. Tue - Fri 12 pm - 7 pm. W2,000 - W3,000. arariogallery.co.kr 02-541-5701

서울 SEOUL

Korea Artist Prize 2012 The most talented and driven artists in Korea, including the likes of Moon Kyeong-won, Jeon Joon-ho, and Lee Soo-kyung, are invited to the Korea Artist Prize 2012.

National Museum of Modern Art near Seoul Grand Park Stn. (line 4, ex. 1, 2, 3). 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. W5,000 moca.go.kr 02-2188-6000 Deoksugung Project Deoksugung Palace carries a tragic history that has witnessed the ups and downs of Korea and now silently waits for another future. Deoksugung Project focuses on the palace as the center of gravity and exhibit sculptures, installations, sound art and more to deliver the message “The Duet: Respect and Betrayal.” Deoksugung Museum near City Hall Stn. (line 1 & 2, ex. 2). Tue - Thu 10 am - 7 pm. Fri - Sun 10 am - 9 pm. Most exhibits free. moca.go.kr 02-2022-0600

2012 S/S Seoul Fashion Week Come and meet talented designers in Korea at one place. SFW introduces new trends for 2013 Spring and Summer. War Memorial of Korea near Samgakji Stn. (line 6, ex. 11). 10 am – 8:30 pm. W7,000+ depending on designers. seoulfashionweek.org 070-8232-6326

Art Ongoing Ablade Glover Ghana-born Ablade Glover is a world-renowned scholar and artist distinguished for his oil paintings.

He is a recipient of the Flagstar award (the highest arts honor in Ghana) and is a Life Fellow of the Royal Society of Art in London, among numerous achievements.

Africa Museum of Art near Gyeongbok Palace. 10:30 am - 6:30 pm (closed on Tuesdays). Adults W3,000, children W2,000. africarho.co.kr 02-730-2430 Modern Masterpieces from the Museum Collection: Poetry and Dreams This exhibition features works from the beginning of the 20th century to the 1950s, a period of Korean history marked by extreme hardship and transformation.

Despite historical adversities, Korean artists continued to express their dreams and imagine their own versions of paradise. National Museum of Art, Deoksugung Gallery near City Hall Stn. (line 1, 2 ex. 2). Free. moca.go.kr Spirit of Chun Kyung-ja This exhibition features the works of one of Korea’s representative artists. Chun Kyung-ja is distinguished for her unique style of using primary colors and clear forms. Her pieces are beautifully melancholy and moving, offering its viewers a glimpse into the artist’s most intimate dreams, thoughts, and sorrows. Seoul Museum of Art, Chun Kyung-Ja Hall near Seoul City Hall Stn. (line 2, ex. 11,12). seoulmoa.seoul.go.kr

The Best under Heaven, the Celadon of Korea This exhibition celebrates the soul and beauty of Goryeo-era pottery. Special Exhibition Gallary in Nation museum of Korea near Ichon Stn. (line 4, ex. 2) Free. museum.go.kr 02-2077-9499 Through October 9th Bong Kyun Ahn Solo Exhibition This exhibit examines the common artistic motive of the relationship between image and text through an archeology and artistic approach.

Hangaram Art Museum near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 11 am - 8 pm.

Free. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Through October 10th Kim Soo-ja: To Breathe Crossing diverse emotions and cultural barriers, Kim Soo-ja introduces her unique psychological and philosophical approach into the world through multi-channel video and large-scale video installations. Her works include Needles, Bundles, Sky, Earth and Human. Kukje Gallery near Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex. 1). 10 am - 6 pm. kukjegallery.com 02-735-8449

700 Yacht Club The Gathering Place for International Professionals in Seoul t Specializing in Corporate Team Building and Sailing Lessons and Races. t Great BBQ facilities on the Han as well as banquet & party facilities.

Through October 11th

National Geographic: The Beautiful Days With a cultural approach to environmental issues, this National Geographic exhibition offers diverse views on the earth as the place where every organism coexists, with five sections on birds and insects, furred animals, aquatic organisms, breathtaking scenery, and human as nature. Hangaram Design Museum at Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Bus Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5).

11 am - 8 pm. W7,000 - W12,000. sac.or.kr 02-6263-2621 Through October 19th Brain Why do people have different reactions to the same object? And how

Call 02-376-5616 to inquire about membership or events today!

700yachtclub.com 10 Magazine October 2012 | 49

does the brain work during art? Savina Museum’s summer project reveals hidden secrets of the brain by analyzing 14 artists’ brains and the process of creating new art works. Savina Museum near Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex. 1). Tue - Sun 10 am - 6:30 pm. W2,000 - W3,000. savinamuseum.com 02-736-4371 Through October 26th Donata Wenders In the first exhibition of her works in Korea, Donata Wenders grants dignity to the small but precious facets of daily life through still photos, portraits, and city scenery. Zandari Gallery near Hapjeong Stn. (line 2, ex. 3).

Tue - Sun 11 am - 7 pm. Free. zandari.com 02-323-4155

서울 SEOUL

Ham Jin - Planet Evoking Surrealist inspirations, “Planet” is an abstract portraiture of the universe. Pkm Gallery Bartleby Bickle & Meursault near Anguk Stn. (Line 3, ex. 1). Mon - Fri 10:30 am - 6 pm, Sat- Sun Closed. pkmgallery.com 02-734-9467 Through October 28th

2012 Seoul Performing Arts Festival October 5th – 27th Arko Arts Theater, Daehangno Arts Theater, Dongduk Women’s University, Daehangno District What happens to a brain under the influence of art? The 12th annual Seoul Performing Arts Festival (SPAF) seeks to answer this question. A celebration of indirect thinking, SPAF is one of Asia’s leading performing arts festivals and is hosted in Seoul’s theater district, Daehangno.

Language barriers are no object in this diverse set of dance, installation, drama and comedy pieces. Star Polish director Krzysztof Warlikowski opens the festival with (A)pollonia, a study on Holocaust era self-sacrifice that combines elements of the Greek tragedies. In France’s Soapéra, dancers form structure as the stage is invaded by a mass of soap bubbles. The Fins use skit and analogy to question authority in Our Social Democratic Bodies. Dictators are transformed into murderous clowns in You Cannot Say I Did It, a grotesque and burlesque reinterpretation of Macbeth by Korean group TUIDA. In total, there will be 18 dances and nine multi-disciplinary performances from 12 countries over the course of three weeks.

The festival goes beyond performing to teaching in two side events: Conversations with the Artists, a series of Q&A sessions with the performing groups, and the 9th Young Critic’s Awards, a reflection and recognition of the art of review.

Reservations must be made separately for individual performances. Tickets for individual shows range from W20,000 to W70,000.

Bookings can be made via phone, at interpark.com and visitseoul. com, and at SPAF’s homepage. www.spaf.or.kr 02-3668-0103 50 | 10 Magazine October 2012

The Forest of Secrets This light, open display of sculpture, new media and handicrafts portrays the mystery and awe of enclosed nature. You may feel like you’re walking through a forest of secrets that isolates you from the noisy outside world. National Museum of Modern Art near Seoul Grand Park Stn. (line 4, ex. 1, 2, 3). 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. Free. moca.go.kr 02-2188-6000 Maya 2012 This exhibition on the great civilization of the Maya in presented at Special Exhibition Gallery at the National Museum of Korea near Ichon Stn. (line 4, ex. 2).

Tue, Thu - Fri 9 am - 6 pm.

Wed, Sat 9 am - 9 pm. Sun 9 am - 7 pm. Free. museum.go.kr 02-2077-9271 Through October 31st Lake Inle, Nyaung Shwe, Burma: Park Nohae Photo Exhibition See life in Burma through photos at Park Nohae’s second exhibition. Ra Cafe Gallery near Gyeongbokgung Stn. (line 3, ex. 3). Bus 7022, 7212, 1020 and get off at Buamdong Community Center. 11 am - 10 pm.

Closed Thursday. Free. racafe.kr 02-379-1975 October 16th - 25th Park Hunil Photo Exhibition This exhibition of landscape photos by accomplished Korean photographer Park Hunil is themed around “Memory: The Unknown and the Familiar”. Hangaram Design Museum near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). Free.11 am - 8 pm. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 October 16th - 26th Songha Baek, Young Ill Solo Exhibition This calligraphy exhibition examines the

beauty and features of letters. Seoul Calligraphy Art Museum near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5) 11 am - 8 pm. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 October 23rd - 31st 9th National Exhibition of Korean Landscape Architecture This exhibition uses landscaping to bring attention to environmental issues. V-Gallery near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). Free.

11 am - 8 pm. sac.or.kr 02-561-7762 October 24th - 31st 2012 Korea Professional Artist Mall Festival See the world of professional artists and their work all in one place to get a better idea about art and the ways you can apply and enjoy it in your everyday life. Hangaram Art Museum near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5).

Free. 11 am - 8 pm. sac.or.kr 02-732-9820

Theater & Dance Ongoing Man of La Mancha: The Musical This musical, which rose to fame on Broadway in 1965, is a play within a play.

The plot follows a tax collector, a soldier, and the author Miguel de Cervantes, who, awaiting a hearing with the Spanish Inquisition, reenacts the story of noble but mad knight Don Quixote with his fellow inmates. Charlotte Theater near Jamsil Stn. (line 2 & 8 ex. 3). W60,000 - W130,000. ticket.interpark.com 1544-1555 Through October 7th Chicago: The Musical A fantastic cast and the assistance of original staff from Broadway are expected to make the 2012 Korean performance of the musical Chicago a rousing success. D Cube Art Center near Sindorim Stn. (line 1 & 2, ex.

1). Tue, Thu & Fri 8 pm, Wed 3 pm, Sat 3 pm, Sun 2 & 6:30 pm. W40,000 - W110,000. d3art.co.kr 02-2211-3000

Wicked: The Musical Don’t miss out on the chance to watch an English-language production of this wildly popular musical, which originally shot to fame on Broadway in 2003. It tells the story of the witches of Oz long before Dorothy and Toto drop in. Blue Square Musical Hall near Hanggangjin Stn. (line 6, ex. 2). wikedthemusical.co.kr 02-1544-1591 Bolshoi On Ice In Seoul See ballet and figure skating in one show with famous Russian ballet troupe Bolshoi. Mokdong Ice Rink near Omokgyo Stn. (line 5, ex. 3).

Mon - Fri 8 pm, Sat - Sun 2 pm & 5 pm.

W55,000 - 88,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-1666-5795 Through October 21st Hedwig: The Musical Since its Korean debut in 2005, Hedwig has become one of the most successful and most talkedabout domestic musicals. This time Hedwig meets its audience with the hottest cast, including Oh Man Seok, Park Gun Hyung, Lee Young Mi and Ahn Yoo Jin. KT&G Sangsang Art Gall near Samsung Stn. (line 2, ex. 2). Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 6 pm & 8:30 pm, Sun 7 pm. W55,000 - W66,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-3404-4311

Openrun Nonverbal Performances Ballerina Who Loves a B-Boy A would-be ballerina falls for a b-boy street dancer in this mash-up of break dance and ballet. Lotte World Art Hall at Jamsil Stn. (line 2). Wed – Fri 8 pm, Sat – Sun 3 & 6 pm. Closed Mon & Tue. W50,000. showbboy.com 02-2266-3727

서울 SEOUL

B-Boy City in Seoul: Kung B-boy ensemble Gorilla Crew uses breakdance to tell a gripping story. B-Boy Theater Samjin B/D B1 in Hongdae. Wed - Fri 8 pm, Sat 6 pm, Sun and holidays 2 pm. 90 min.

Closed Mon & Tue. W50,000. sjbboys.com 02-323-5233

Bibap Bibap depicts one of Korea’s representative dishes, bibimbap (비빔밥) through beatboxing and dance. Hanhwa Sonbo Cecil Theater near Deoksu Palace, City Hall Stn. (line 1 ex. 3 & line 2 ex. 12).

Mon 8 pm, Tue - Sat 5 & 8 pm, Sun & holidays 3 & 6 pm. W40,000 – W60,000. ceciltheater.com 02-766-0815

Action Drawing Hero Art exhibit or performance? The drawing show is as fun to watch as it is hard to classify. Myungbo Art Hall near Euljiro 3-ga Stn. (lines 2 & 3, ex. 8). Weekdays 8 pm, Sat 4 & 7 pm, Sun & holidays 3 & 6 pm. W40,000 - W50,000. drawingtheater.com 02-766-7848

Drum Cat This prize-winning, all-female percussion ensemble works rock, jazz, techno, and Latin rhythms into their powerful performance. Myungbo Art Hall in Junggu. Mon & Tue 8 pm, Wed – Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun 3 & 6 pm, holidays 4 pm. 90 min. W40,000 - W50,000. drumcat.co.kr 02-586-8489

Fanta-stick This show mixes physical comedy with traditional Korean music for lots of laughs. The performers jump down into the audience to interact with members, making for an even more “fanta-stick” performance. Kyunghyang Newspaper Building near Seodaemun Stn. (line 5, ex. 5). Daily at 8 pm. 80 min.

W40,000 – W50,000. fanta-stick.co.kr 02-6401-5959

Jump First performed in 2003, this show combines a comic story with martial arts moves and impressive visuals. Seoul Cinema (Seoul theater 5F) Jongno 3-ga Stn. (lines 1, 3, 5 ex. 14) & Euljiro 3-ga Stn. (line 2, ex 4). Mon 8 pm, Tue – Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun 3 & 6 pm. W40,000 – W60,000. hijump.co.kr 02-722-3995

Karma This nonverbal musical tells a classic tale of fate, love and conspiracy among the gods. Karma Theatre near Chungcheongno Stn. (lines 2 & 5, ex. 7 & 8). Mon – Fri 8 pm, Sat 3 pm & 7 pm, Sun 3 pm. W44,000 – W77,000. thepatron. aboutmovie.com 02-336-1289

Korea House Performance Head over to the Korea House for two daily performances based on traditional Korean culture. Chungmuro Stn. (lines 3 & 4, ex. 3).

Part 1: 6:30 - 7:30 pm, part 2: 8:30 - 9:30 pm. Dinner price starts at W68,200.

Performance is W50,000 (30% discount with dinner). kangkoku.or.kr 02-2266-9101

The Marionette: B-Boy Musical This b-boy musical features b-boy team Expression Crew, which won the top prize in an international competition. Daehan Saengmyeong 63 Art Hall in the 63 Building, located in Yeouido near Yeouinaru Stn. (line 5, ex. 3). 8 pm. Closed Mon & 1st & 3rd Tue. 70 min. W40,000.

63.co.kr 1661-1063

Miso Chongdong Theater presents Miso, a story of one woman’s encounter with love told through traditional dance, percussion, and music. City Hall Stn. (lines 1 & 2, ex. 12). 4 & 8 pm. Closed Mon. 80 min. W40,000 – W50,000. miso.chongdong.com 02-751-1500

Pan This performance, produced by artistic director Duk-soo Kim, combines a variety of exciting Korean folk songs, dances, and games. Held at the Gwanghwamun Art Hall near Gyeongbokgung Palace Stn. (line 3, ex. 1). Weekdays 8 pm, weekends and holidays 2 pm. Closed Mon and Tue. 90 min. W30,000 - W50,000. ghmarthall.com 02-722-3416

Nanta This kitchen percussion extravaganza is the stage show that nearly everyone sees at least once. Three Seoul locations and performances almost daily. W40,000 – W60,000. To find out how to get a big discount on your tickets, see p. 15. nanta.co.kr 02-739-8288

Performances at National Folk Museum Every weekend, the National Folk Museum presents traditional Korean performances for visitors. Anguk Stn (line 3, ex. 1) Gwanghwamun Stn (line 5, ex. 2).

Sat 3 pm. Free. nfm.go.kr 02-3704-3114

Sa-Choom The story of three friends’ coming of age is told through dance.

Performance held in Insadong near Jongno 3-ga Stn. (lines 1, 3, & 5, ex. 5).

Mon - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 7:30 pm, Sun & holidays 4 pm. 80 min. W25,000 W50,000. lovedance.co.kr 02-3676-7616

Samcheonggak Concert and Performance Dine on a premium meal of Korean food with traditional tea as you enjoy traditional Korean music, dance and vocal performances. Samcheonggak in Seongbuk-gu. Free shuttle bus available outside of Euljiro Stn. (line 2, ex. 1).

W50,000 – W70,000. samcheonggak.or.kr 02-765-3700

10 Magazine October 2012 | 51

David Guaetta

서울 SEOUL

Global Gathering Korea 2012

Friday, October 5th – Saturday, October 6th Caribbean Bay, Yongin, Gyeonggi-do Global Gathering is back! This annual festival of the world’s best electronic music has moved away from Nanji Park in Seoul to Caribbean Bay at Everland, Gyeonggi-do. Headlining the event is superstar house DJ and producer David Guetta, who is coming to Korea for the first time. UK act Orbital will also be making their first visit to the ROK, and Twenty One Pilots are returning after their applauded performance at Jisan Valley this summer. Other lineup names include trance DJ John O’Callaghan, Italian dancepunk project The Bloody Beetroots, D&B icons London Elektricity, and Korean performers like Idiotape, Shut Da Mouth, BeatBurger and more. The festival has organized shuttle buses from Sinchon Stn. and Gangnam Stn. and reservations can be made online.

One-day pass W110,000, two-day pass W143,000. globalgatheringkorea.co.kr 010 3360 7846

W250 wings?

W2,000 drafts?

Unlimited wine for two hours?

South African boerewors?

Thai curry?

Greek gyros?

Western brunch?

Where can you find all of this? Just ask Chip! Chip’s Maps have everything you need to enjoy the greater Itaewon area like a local.

10mag.com/chipsmaps

Pick up your FREE copy today at the Itaewon Subway Station Tourism Information Office or from your hotel concierge.

52 | 10 Magazine October 2012

Cannibal Corpse unleashes terror in Seoul October 19th, AX-Korea Hall at Gwangnaru Station. 7:30 pm Unsurprisingly, a band with a name like Cannibal Corpse is no stranger to controversy. In their 24 years of existence, these genre pioneers have been banned from several countries. Yet they triumphed in the underground to become the top-selling deathmetal band of all time. Now they are touring in support of their latest recording, Torture, and performing in formerly off-limits countries—Korea included.

Death-metal is the sonic equivalent of a horror movie; with themes focusing on zombies, death, and the macabre. So what better way to celebrate the Halloween season than a death-metal concert? The combination of chainsaw guitars, vocals like an orc from “Lord of the Rings,” and a fascination with gore will be the perfect build-up for this year’s festivities. They’re headlining with American metal-core group Unearth as the opening act. Ages 15 and older. W88,000 ticket.interpark.com 02-3445-9650

October 9th - 22nd

October 16th - November 18th Hero: The Musical This musical celebrates the life of Korean independence fighter Ahn Joong-geun.

Blue Square Musical Hall near Hangangjin Stn. (line 6, ex. 2 & 3). Thu - Fri 8 pm, Sat 3 pm & 7:30 pm, Sun 2 pm & 6:30 pm.

W30,000 - 50,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-1544-1555 October 18th - 21st Opera Carmen To commemorate the 50th anniversary of the founding of the National Opera Team, a collaboration production of Carmen between France and Korea will open in Seoul. Seoul Arts Center Opera Hall. 18th & 19th 7:30 pm, 20th & 21st 3 pm. W10,000 - W150,000. sac.or.kr 02-586-5282

Concerts Ongoing 1,000 Won Happiness Every month, the city of Seoul invites you to an opportunity to enjoy quality concerts for the price of W1,000! Sign up between the 5th and 7th of each month to win a seat. Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). happy1000.sejongpac.or.kr 02-399-1609 Korean Traditional Music and Dance Experience the beauty of traditional Korean music and dance every Saturday at 4 pm. Umyeondang at the National Gugak Center near Nambu Bus Terminal Stn. (line 3). W10,000. gugak.go.kr 02-580-3300

October 6th

Gap Born To Rock Concert Go to this fall season music festival to enjoy the best of modern Korean rock, including Crying Nut, Guckkasten, Younha, Kingston Rudieska and more. A pop-up art exhibition and “2012 Next Indie Star” contest will be included in the festivities.

AX-Korea near Gwangnaru Stn. (line 5, ex.

2). 3 pm. W35,000. gapconcert.com 02-3444-9989

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Seoul International Dance 2012 Dance performances by premier dance groups from all around the world. Seoul Art Center Jayu Theater. 9th & 11th & 18th 8pm, 13th 6 pm, 14th 3 pm, 20th 6 pm. W20,000 - W30,000 sidance.org 02-3216-1185.

October 2nd - 5th Korea International Music Festival Celebrate Chuseok with these big orchestra performances. Seoul Arts Center Concert Hall. 8 pm. W20,000 W50,000. sac.or.kr 02-2655-3061.

Guckkasten

October 4th - 7th Opera Don Giovanni Witness this masterpiece of Mozart’s opera during a limited run of only four days. Seoul Arts Center Opera Hall. 4th - 5th 7:30 pm , 6th 2 pm & 7:30 pm, 7th 3 pm. W30,000 W250,000. sac.or.k. 02-572-6773

Seoul Live Music Festa Vol. 08 Halls around Hongdae area offer diverse concerts on this Saturday festa, with the likes of Superkid, Dry Flower, Trans and more in attendance. V-Hall, Rolling Hall, Rolling Stones, and other concert halls near Hongdae Stn. (line 2, ex. 9). 5 pm - 12 am. Standing W22,000. ticket.interpark.com 070-8731-7663 Ssamzie Sound Festival 14th Celebrate music and organic food at this massive concert with DJ DOC and indie bands like Gogo Star, Fall Vacation, Moonshiners, 13 Steps and more. Nanji Han River Park near Mapo-gu Office Stn. (line 6, ex. 7). W30,000. ssamziesoundfestival.com 02-322-1273 “Les voyages de l’ame” Tour in Seoul French shoegaze/post-rock band Alcest visits Korea during a stop on their world tour. Prism Hall near Hapjeong Stn. (line 2, ex. 3). 7 pm. W55,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-3445-9650 October 6th - 7th Jang Yun-jeong: 10th Anniversary Concert This concert celebrates the 10th anniversary of trot singer Jang Yungjeong’s debut. Concert features special guest Nam Jin, a Korean trot legend.

Sejong Center for the Performing Arts near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 1 & 8).

6th 3 pm & 7 pm, 7th 5 pm. W55,000 99,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-2233-8063

M.street Balla Show Male vocal trio M.street, known for their powerful vocals and beautiful harmonies, perform every weekend in Daehangno. Purchase tickets in front of the theater. First come, first served. Daehangno Music Monster Hall.

Sat & Sun 7:30 pm. W30,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-747-2113

October 7th The Beautiful: Singer-Songwriter Series This international orchestral performance features British singer James Morrison and Korean songwriter Jeong Jae-hyeong as invited artists. Outdoor theater at Yonsei University near Sinchon Stn. (line 2, ex. 2).

6 pm. W77,000 - W121,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-563-0595

Saturday Afternoon Chamber Music with KT Come out on Saturday afternoons to listen to live classical music.

KT Chamber Hall near Omokgyo Stn. (line 5, ex. 2). W10,000. ktchamberhall.com 1577-4579

October 13th Boxer Show 4 A massive battle of rap, popping, locking and beatbox.

Apgujeong Ye Hall near Apgujeong Stn. (line 3, ex.1 & 2). ticket.interpark.com 010-9944-5064

October 1st - 7th Hi Seoul Festival The road becomes the stage! See performances and programs with other Seoulites. Gwanghwamun Square and other places near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 2, 5 & 6).

11 am - 9 pm. Free. hiseoulfest.org 02-3290-7160

October 13th - 14th Siwallae This romantic concert has a limited two-day run featuring groups 4men, Browneyed Soul, Dynamic Duo & Simon D, among others. Nanji Han River Park near Mapo-gu Office Stn. (line 6, ex.

7). 2 pm - 10 pm. W88,000 - W154,000. ticket.interpark.com 1544-1555

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10 Magazine October 2012 | 53

October 14th Beenzino 2 4 : 2 6 Concert Up-andcoming Korean rapper Beenzino’s first-ever solo concert. KT&G SangsangMadang Live Hall near Hapjeong Stn. (line 2, ex. 3). 5 pm.

W35,000 - W40,000. ticket.interpark.com 1544-1555

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Live without PAIN

Michael Bolton: 2012 Hyundai Department Store Concert III American rock and ballad singer Michael Bolton visits Korea for the next concert in this series of Hyundai-sponsored performances. Jamsil Indoor Stadium near Seoul Sports Complex Stn. (line 2, ex. 7). W66,000 - W180,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-2240-8000 October 20th – 21st Autumn Concert with Gum Nanse World-famous music director and conductor Gum Nanse and the Euro-Asian Chamber Orchestra play the sounds of autumn. Art Hall at Garden Five near Jangji Stn. (line 8, ex. 3). Sat 7 pm, Sun 3 pm. W20,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-2157-8780

October 28th Just Jam Vol. 3: 90’s Babies The Just Jam concert series delivers hip-hop music with a live band. Very-young newcomers Black Nut, Giriboy, Geeks, Take One and more will join the stage. Rolling Hall near Sangsu Stn. (line 6, ex. 1). 6 pm. Standing W30,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-1644-1702 Isao Sasaki: Sky Walker New Age pianist Isao Sasaki visits Korea. This concert will feature a fusion of classical and traditional music. Concert Hall at Seoul ArtsCenter near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 5 pm. W44,000 – W99,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-2685-3546

October 20th Lee Byung-woo Guitar concert The only multi-guitar player in Korea, Lee Byung-woo is famous for the unique mood he is able to convey. In this concert, he will cover a wide range of genres.

Sejong Center for the Performing Arts near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 1). 7 pm. W30,000 - W100,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-582-4098

Ongoing Norito Bring the kids to make your own ceramics and play with soil. Uni Art Center near Children’s Grand Park Stn. (line 7).

Ceramic-making: 10:30 am, 1:20 pm, 3 pm, 4 pm. W10,000 - 18,000. uniartcenter.com 02-2201-9300

October 26th - 27th KT&G Music Journey 2012 Feel the freedom of time with pianist and producer Yang Bang-un. LG Art Center near Yeoksam Stn. (line 2, ex. 7). 26th 8 pm, 27th 6 pm. W44,000 - W132,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-6352-6636

54 | 10 Magazine October 2012

October 27th - 28th One More Chance Concert Popular Korean indie band One More Chance celebrates the release of their first album.

Interpark Art Center Art Hall near Hapjeong Stn. (line 2, ex. 1). 27th 7 pm, 28th 6 pm. W66,000. ticket.interpark.com 1544-1555

Grand Mint Festival 2012 This refreshingly cool annual event is a rock concert and cultural exhibition in one. Catch shows from top Korean bands like Jaurim, Nell, Delispice, Hot Potato, and tons more at five different stages.

Various venues throughout Olympic Park near Olympic Park Stn. (line 5, ex. 3). One day W88,000, two days W140,000. grandmintfestival.com 02-1544-6399

October 21st Steve Gadd and Friends Legendary drummer Steve Gadd visits Korea with guest bassist Svante Henryson and jazz pianist Anders Wihk. The concert will deliver jazzy spins on classic ABBA’s hits.

Main Hall at Seoul Theological University near Sosa Stn. (line 1, ex. 2). 6 pm.

W33,000 -W55,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-785-2506

International Health Insurance Benefit.

Kenny Rogers Live in Seoul American pop legend Kenny Rogers comes to Korea.

Olympic Hall near Olympic Park Stn. (line 5, ex. 3). 8 pm. W90,000 - W220,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-410-1601

Family & Community

Seoul Funique House The Funique House features interactive artifacts and scientific toys. It is divided into five themes: sound, light, science, movement, and lifestyle. 2nd floor of Jeongdong Kyeonghyang Art Hill near Kangbuk Samsung Hospital. 2 - 7 pm (weekends 10 am - 7 pm). W8,000. funmuseum.com Rolling Ball Museum This exhibit features steel balls, rails, and a whole lot of rolling. Exhibits by rolling ball artists Jeffrey Zachmann, Bruce Gray, and Didier Legros show you the artistic and scientific possibilities of this far-from-simple art.

2nd floor of the Kyunghyang Newspaper Building at Seodaemun Stn. (line 5, ex. 5).

11 am - 8 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W12,000, students W10,000. rollingball.co.kr 02-1544-3852

To list your event, email us at calendar@10mag.com or call 070-7464-4625

Ongoing The Gwanghwamun Grand Culture Festival Under the seasonal themes of the Spring Starry Night Festival, Midsummer Night’s Tropical Festival and Autumn Starry Night Festival, various artists will showcase a series of live performances for the public. Sejong Center Central Stairway. Tue - Fri 6:30 - 7:30 pm, Sat - Sun 4 - 5 pm. Free. xn--hc0b15inrgbqba2572bca.com (광화문 마당.com) 02-1544-1887

Dialogue in the Dark Experience the life of a visually impaired person as you take a tour in the dark with your blind guide.

Vertigo Tower in Sinchon. Weekdays 12 – 8:30 pm, weekends 10 am – 7 pm.

Closed Mon. W20,000 - W30,000. dialogueinthedark.co.kr 02-313-9977 Wax Museum 70 hyper-realistic wax figures are exhibited at the wax museum in the 63 Building in Yeouido. 10 am - 10 pm. W14,000. 63waxmuseum.com 02-789-5663 Vroomiz Playground Toddlers and preschoolers are sure to enjoy this Vroomiz-themed playground. The Vroomiz are animated, animal-shaped talking vehicles who inhabit Zippy City.

Sindorim Technomart, F5. 10:30 am - 7 pm. Adults (middle school and up) W10,000, children W15,000. gogovroomiz.com 1544-4092 Through October 7th

October 12nd - 14th The 17th Prehistoric Culture Festival Experience and learn at 40 educational programs and events about prehistoric sites around the Amsa area. Amsa-dong Prehistoric Settlement Site near Amsa Stn. (line 8, ex. 1). blog.naver.com/gdculture

Education & Conferences Ongoing Garuya, Garuya: Kids’ Flour Workshop Kids + flour = fun! PMC Kids Hall at the Coex Artium, Samseong Stn. (line 2). Mon - Fri 1 - 4 pm, Sat - Sun 10:20 am - 4:20 pm (Sat 4:55 pm). Adults 17,000, kids W23,000. coex.co.kr 02-738-8289 Insect & Reptile Exhibition This exhibition includes an insectarium, amphibian house, reptile house and mini zoo. Insect & Reptile Exhibition Center near Sindang Stn. (line 2, 6, ex. 10). 10 am - 6 pm. W10,000. bugsfestival.com 02-1588-2019 Russian Lessons: Русские уроки для английский-говорящих! Russian lessons for beginner and intermediate speakers at Seoul Global Village Center, Myeongdong, from 4 to 6 pm every Sunday. Lessons W10,000 for visitors and W5,000 for members. aruskor.org Trick Eye Museum This interactive museum features optical illusions sure to make for hilarious photo ops. Trick Eye Museum near Hongik University Stn. (line 2, ex. 9) 10 am - 9 pm. W13,000. trickeye.com 02-3144-6300 October 4th – 7th Yogo Story 2012 Cute and delicious!

Learn all about yogurt at booths from informational to experiential. Make, taste and learn. Hall 1 at aT center near Yangjae Citizen’s Forest. 10 am – 6 pm. W4,000 – W10,000. yogostory.co.kr 02-6273-4242

A Trip to Anthony Browne’s World of Fairy Tales Anthony Browne is a British author and illustrator of children’s books, with nearly forty titles to his name.

Browne’s original illustrations, sculptures, and special programs are sure to delight the entire family. World of Fairy Tales Art Center near Yangjae Citizen’s Forest Stn. (Shinbundang line, ex. 1) or Yangjae Stn. (line 3, ex. 9). 11 am - 6 pm (closed Mondays) W6,000 - W10,000. anthonybrowne.co.kr 02-3143-4360 October 2nd – 7th 2012 Gangnam Fashion Festival Want to see more Gangnam Style? The real district of Gangnam shows off its designers’ style at this fashion show. New designer contests, a trend exhibition, a fashion market and performances will be available. Outdoor Stage at Coex near Samsung Stn. (line 2, ex. 6). 11 am – 8 pm. fashionfestival.or.kr October 6th Islamic Culture Festival This event introduces the culture of Islam through various events, including food booths, item booths, traditional performances, and cultural programs. Hansung Univ.

Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). seongbuk.go.kr 02-920-3462

서울 SEOUL

Cocomong’s Green Playground Kids can learn about protecting the environment while playing with Cocomong, the animated monkey.

Sindorim Technomart 5th floor, near Sindorim Stn. (lines 1 & 2). 10:30 am - 7 pm.

Closed Mon. Adults W10,000, children W15,000. playcocomong.com 02-1544-9033

October 6th The 7th Namsan International Culture Festival Traditional dance, a concert of indie bands, tours of Namsangol Traditional Folk Village and a Hanbok fashion show make up this yearly celebration. Namsan Park Area, N Seoul Tower, and Namsangol Traditional Folk Village. W5,000 for walking tour. koreawave.org 02-538-3324

Myeongdong Branch Grand Opening

October 6th - 7th 2012 MCI Wedding Fair This fair is for young couples who are planning to marry.

See and compare many different wedding halls in one place. Hakdong Crossroads Wedding Square near Samseong Stn. (line 2, exit 5). 10 am - 8 pm. W3,000. mciweddingfair.com 02-3447-0088 October 6th – 9th The 2nd Kids Edu Expo Expo booths feature educational programs, books, talent training, furniture and accessories related to children’s education in a perfect opportunity to stock up for your children. SETEC near Hangnyeoul Stn. (line 3). 10 am – 6 pm. W5,000. kidsfair.kr 02-2238-0345 October 8th – 10th Korea Games Conference 2012 The 12th KGC invites experts from all over the world in the field of video games for a qualitative conference. Speakers may surprise you with new ways to define the future of gaming. Coex Convention Center near Samseong Stn. (line 2, ex. 6).

9:20 am – 6 pm. W35,000 – W110,000. kgconf.com 02-3153-2782 October 13th – 14th The 112th Comic World The event features booths on comics, an illustration

Myeongdong NOW OPEN! 8-1 Myeongdong 1-ga, Joong-gu, Seoul. Tel: 02-771-9700 Itaewon 116-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul. Tel: 02-790-7977 Samcheong-dong 31-1 Samcheong-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul. Tel: 02-730-7461 Dogok-dong 464 Dogok-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul. Tel: 02-574-4468

Business Hour : 11:30am - 10:30pm

www.mapletreehouse.co.kr

10 Magazine October 2012 | 55

서울 SEOUL

Itaewon Global Village Festival 2012 October 12th – 14th, Itaewon Special Tourist Zone This year’s Itaewon Global Village Festival will once again give pedestrians free reign of the street from Itaewon Station to Noksapeong Station, closing it to all vehicle traffic for a grand celebration of international scale. Since 2008, the festival has stood out as one of the most diverse celebrations in Seoul, encouraging a spirit of harmony between Korean traditional culture and foreign culture.

The festival will kick off on Friday evening with “Itaewon DJ Party” featuring talented DJs at the concert stage near Noksapyeong station, showing off the area’s unique, intense club culture.

On Saturday, the World Culture Parade led by 500 performers will march the route from Hangangjin Station to Noksapyeong Station. Parade teams from all over the world will dress in national costume and perform traditional dances for an opportunity to learn about world history and culture. A concert of popular K-pop stars will be follow. The closing ceremony, C&M Love Concert, will feature an exciting line-up of soon-to-be-announced celebrities.

Amateur artists selected based on strict criteria will also be given a chance to showcase their skills in a variety of lively side events. Finally, for culinary adventurers and budding gourmands, street stalls at the “Korean Food Exhibition” and “World Food Culture Exhibition” will offer a must-taste experience. www.itaewonfest.org F RI DAY, 12 T H

S ATUR DAY, 13 T H

2 pm

Best of Street Artists

1 pm

World Culture Performances

4 pm

Cultural Performances

3 pm

World Culture Parade

6 pm

Itaewon DJ Party

5 pm

Opening Ceremony

6:30 pm Y-Star Live

Power Music

56 | 10 Magazine October 2012

S U N DAY, 14 T H 11 am Talent Show 2 pm

World Culture Performances

5 pm

Closing Ceremony / C&M Love Concert

All Day World Culture

Exhibition

A full schedule of events and side stage performances is available at www.itaewonfest.org.

All entry fees will be used to help patients who have incurable diseases. A course (6.5km) and B course (4.5km) available.

Seoul World Cup Stadium near World Cup Stn. (line 6) at 9:30 am. W5.000. Register

by October 9th. walkinghira.co.kr 02-425-0202

contest, a book contest, and a costumes challenge. Yangjae Citizen’s Forest. Sat 10:30 – 5:30, Sun 10 am – 5:30. W4,000. comicw.co.kr 02-3142-2137

October 18th - 21st Hangyung Golf Fair Find out all about the Korean golf industry and golf goods.

SETEC near Hakyeoul Stn. (line 3, exit 1).

W3,000. golfshow.kr 02-360-4114 October 19th - 21st Pharm Expo Korea 2012 This exhibition distributes information about protecting public health and promoting the revolution of the Pharmaceutical Association. Coex Convention Center near Samseong Stn. (line 2, ex. 6). 10 am - 6 pm. Free. pharmexpo.kr 02-6000-1523 October 23rd - 26th Korea Lift Safety Expo 2012 Korea’s only expo about lift and elevator safety is back for its second year. Coex Convention Center near Samseong Stn. (line 2, ex. 6).

10 am - 6 pm. W2,500 - W5,000. liftexpo.co.kr 02-6000-1073 October 26th - 28th 10th Int’l Beauty Expo Korea Get the latest about everything beauty, from new makeup and hairstyles to cosmetic enhancements to plastic surgery. Coex Convention Center near Samseong Stn. (line 2, ex. 6). 10 am - 5 pm. W2,000 - W5,000. expobeauty.co.kr 02-6000-1518

Sport & Fitness 2012 Baseball LG Twins at Jamsil Stadium 1st – 2nd vs Samsung Lions 6:30 pm Nexen Heroes at Mokdong Stadium 1st – 2nd vs Doosan Bears 6:30 pm 2012 K League Soccer Seoul at Seoul World Cup Stadium 7th vs Gyeongnam 5 pm 21st vs Jeju 3 pm October 7th 2012 Pink Ribbon Love Marathon Spread awareness for breast cancer patients and their families. 5km and 10km courses. Culture Square in Yeouido Park near Yeouido Stn. (line 5, ex. 2). 8:30 am.

W10,000. blog.naver.com/pinknme 02-1688-9744 October 20th Protect Dok-do Marathon Festival The marathon delivers the message of protecting the island of Dok-do. 5km, 10km courses. Han river Ttukseom Park near Ttukseom Park Station (line 7, ex. 3) 9:30 am. W20,000 - W30,000. Register by October 5th. run1080.com 042-638-1080 October 27th Sarang Nanum Walking Festival

Dine & Drink Ongoing Homemade Italian Luncheons Enjoy delicious Italian cuisine in a relaxing environment with Club Italia Seoul.

Located at the Franciscan Foreign Kindergarten (franciscanfk.com) next to the Italian Embassy between Hannam Stn. (line 6) and Hangangjin Stn. (line 3).

RSVP required. Sunday 1 pm. W15,000.

Facebook: Club Italia Seoul. clubitaliaseul@gmail.com

서울 SEOUL

October 16th – 18th The 11th World Korean Business Convention This international business convention aims to build business networks in and out of Korea. This year it will welcome 1,000 overseas and 2,000 domestic guests. Coex near Samseong Stn. (line 2, ex. 6). 9 am – 9 pm. W10,000 – W150,000. hansang.korean.net 02-3415-0150

November 11th The 10th Sports Seoul Marathon and Challenge 5km, 10km, half and full courses. Seoul World Cup Stadium near World Cup Stn. (line 6) at 9 am. W20,000 - W35,000. Register by October 26th. marathon.sportsseoul.com 031-791-9792

Travel Ongoing

Palace Tours Youth volunteers with the YCC (Youth Cultural Corps) provide free English-language tours of Gyeongbokgung Palace, taking place every Saturday and Sunday at 10 am and 3 pm. Meet at Gyeongbokgung Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). Make reservations online.

Icworld.or.kr 02-3210-3266

Nightlife Ongoing Awesome 80s Prom Half performance and half party, this unique event blurs the lines between the people in the show and the people watching it. The concept was designed by famous Off-Broadway producer Ken Davenport. Sat 7:30 pm.

W20,000. King Club near Itaewon Stn. (line 6, ex. 3). 02-3471-8963 Quiz Night at Craftworks Every Wednesday at 8:30 pm. Great prizes including W50,000 bar tab for 1st place and prizes from sponsors. Craftworks Taphouse is located near Noksapyeong Stn. (line 6, ex. 2). craftworkstaphouse.com 02-794-2537 Stand Up Seoul Comedy Night Korea’s finest English-speaking comedians deliver monologues and rants about expat life and other topics. New acts are welcome!

The show starts at 9 pm on first Thursday of each month at the Rocky Mountain Tavern in Itaewon. Facebook: Stand Up Seoul james.hershberger@gmail.com October 27th Halloween Party Cruise On Han River Dress up and enjoy Halloween on the Han River with music and drinks. The boat will depart at 5:30 pm near Yeouinaru Stn. (line 5, ex.3). Arrive 30 minutes early.

W50,000 - W60,000. adventurekorea.com 010-4242-5536

10 Magazine October 2012 | 57

Seoul DISCOVERY

Hey boils and ghouls, it’s that time of fear again!

서울 SEOUL

October 31st was originally the Celtic New Year’s Eve named Samhain, later coupled with the Roman harvest festival Pomona. In an effort to Christianize pagan traditions, Pope Gregory III merged these celebrations with All Saint’s Day on November 1st. However, the night before (called All Hallow’s Eve) persisted, turning into modern-day Halloween. It has now grown into the second biggest commercial holiday in the USA, and its popularity is still growing—especially in Korea! Just because you’re not in the West doesn’t mean there’s not plenty to do this October 31st.

H au n t e d H o u s e s In Children’s Grand Park and Imjingak (near the DMZ) there are identical automated ghost houses, filled with mechanical demons and monsters. The wax museum in 63 Building houses the requisite Hall of Horrors, featuring very high-quality gore effects and some live actors. Lotte World has an outdoor ghost house which is actually a creepy 3D movie as well as an indoor haunted house.

Everland is likewise filled with holiday themed activities, and boasts a much-hyped Horror Maze promoted by boy band 2PM. The attraction at Seoul Land is the most original, taking you to subterranean lairs populated with traditional Korean demons, such as the Dokkaebi.

D i v i nat i o n Halloween is traditionally the time of year when the barrier between the realm of the living and dead is the weakest, making fortune-telling part of the festivities. Korea’s shamanistic traditions make tarot card and palm readers easy to find all over the city—though you probably should bring a Korean friend to help translate if your language skills aren’t up to snuff.

New for 2012

*

“Ghost Town” Street Party On Thursday, October 27th, a street party called “Ghost Town” will be thrown in Itaewon, promising to be the biggest, hottest and most anticipated Halloween event for 2012. The street from Hamilton Hotel to Noksapyeong Station will be closed to cars and a delightful line-up of DJs from both Korea and overseas (Sascha Sibler, YeonJun, Show-B, and more) will be spinning tunes. Get yourself ready for the big night and see what happens when Halloween meets “Itaewon freedom”. Gost Town starts at 5 pm.

Pe r fo r manc e s Lotte World is Halloween-themed this time of year, with a parade and a vampire musical entitled “Dracula’s Love”.

Other shows include death-metal legends Cannibal Corpse performing October 19th (see editor’s pick), and the Seoul Players performing “The Rocky Horror Picture Show” on the 27th and 31st.

C e m e t e r i e s Besides fitting in with the theme of Halloween, graveyards are also beautiful places with lots of local history. The Foreigners’ Cemetery near Hapjeong is particularly noteworthy. It dates back to the 1800’s and is chock-full of stories from Korea’s turbulent past.

H o r r o r M ov i e s Getting together with a horror film and shutting off the lights is a classic Halloween tradition. The best option in Korea is a DVD bang; a private cinema with a massive selection of horror flicks on site is a sure-fire recipe for terrifying fun!

Jack- O - L an t e r ns Finding traditional pumpkins here practically requires a black-market connection and exorbitant prices. Try carving a traditional Korean cooking pumpkin instead. Sure, they’re mostly green (hey—the originals in Ireland were turnips), but they’re cheap and carve well. So throw a carving party with some friends!

Play D r e ss - Up Evolving from the Celtic tradition of “guising,” going out in costume is the perfect way to frighten off evil spirits or just have a blast. Although most of us don’t go trick-or-treating anymore, we can still go door to door (bar to bar) in Itaewon or Hongdae! Stores selling costumes can be found in Itaewon, Dongdaemun, Seokchon, and of course, on the internet. Note: cat ears by themselves are NOT a costume.

Wor d s by I an H en derson shots b y Daehan m in decline an d I an H en derson *

58 | 10 Magazine October 2012

Seoul Foreigner Assistance

Radio TBS eFM American Forces Network

FM 101.3 FM 102.7

Transportation International Taxi (English Speaking) 1644-2255 Jumbo Taxi Service (more expensive)

02-888-2000 Interactive Subway Map smrt.co.kr

Counseling Services Conscious Living Looking for change? Or did change find you? Would you like to shift the places you’re stuck and have more ease and joy in life? Licensed facilitator, Mary-Jane, offers personal/ staff/relationship counselling and life coaching. Group workshops also available. conscious-living.asia

010-3996-9429 Korea Counseling Psychological Association krcpa.or.kr 02-498-8293

Medical Services A Plus Dental aplusnetworks.co.kr 02-3442-7616 Dr. Pet Animal Medical Centre Entrust your pet to the compassionate, competent staff at this cutting-edge veterinary hospital. dr-pet.co.kr 02-3443-8275

서울 SEOUL

ATEK (Association for Teachers of English in Korea) atek.or.kr Seoul Dasan (City Info) 02-120 Seoul Global Center global.seoul.go.kr 02-1688-0120 Yeoksam English 02-3453-9038 Yeonnam Chinese 02-6406-8151 Seorae French 02-570-6009 Ichon Japanese 02-2199-8882 Itaewon/Hannam English

02-2199-8883~5

Hus Hu Dental & Skin Clinic hus-hu.com 02-519-8013 Ideal Wellness Center Are you ready to upgrade your health? Get the help of US Board Certified Chiropractor, Dr. William Choi, sports trainer and massage specialist at this comfortable chiropractic clinic. idealwellness.co.kr 02-790-7246 Jaseng Hospital of Oriental Medicine Are you suffering from back or neck pain? Visit the non-surgical spinal specialists. jaseng.net 02-3218-2167 Korea HIV/AIDS Prevention & Support Center khap.org 02-927-4322 New York Wholistic Care Dr. Vincent Jong, an experienced New York chiropractor, uses pilates/yoga and body balancing therapy to help you reenergize your mind and achieve optimal health.

F2, 736-21 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu. nywc.co.kr 02-792-2296 Ra Dental Clinic 02-569-8745 Dr. Seol’s Dental Clinic Painless, comfortable, and affordable dental care

by U.S. trained and licensed dental associates and specialists. Special fees for 10 Magazine readers. 15 minutes from Gangnam and Jamsil. SeolDental.co.kr

02-486-7528 Tufts Dental Clinic 02-553-7512 WY Dentistry Gangnam Better than your dentist back home. Dr. Yoo is a UStrained and licensed dentist with over 20 years of clinical dental experience serving the expat community since 1996. wydent.com 02-514-5575

Law Firm JM Law Group Hard to find a good lawyer in Korea? We at JM Law Group will fight for your legal rights from employment disputes to business transactions. For a free consultation, please email us at kkim@jmlaw.co.kr

Insurance

Samsung Fire and Marine Insurance Automobile and motorcycle insurance provided by one of Korea’s most reliable conglomerates. Also available; Life/ Annuities, Business/Fire, Supplemental Medical, Travel Insurance. 010-3232-0625

Korean Tours

Grand Plastic Surgery For English: grandps_eng@hotmail.com For Chinese: grandps_chn@hotmail.com For Japanese: grandps_jp@hotmail.com For Russian: grandps_ru@hotmail.com

Adventure Korea adventurekorea.com 018-242-5536 Korean Safari koreansafari.com 019-542-2955 O’ngo Culinary Tours Korean food tours and cooking classes in Seoul. Tours and classes are taught by Korean food experts. Experience the culture through the cuisine. ongofood.com 010-6661-7769

10 Magazine October 2012 | 59

Royal Asiatic Society Korea Branch raskb.com 02-763-9483 USO DMZ Tours www.koridoor.co.kr 02-6383-2570 WOW Corea Tour wowcoreatour.com 02-739-3337

Bikram Yoga Gangnam Feel the 105°F heat of the original Bikram Yoga with 90-minute classes taught by passionate instructors. Behind the Kyobo Tower building, Sinnonhyeon Stn. (line 9, ex. 7). bikramyogakorea.co.kr 02-532-2101

Travel Agencies

Bellydance Lessons with Eshe Morning, afternoon, and evening classes, plus Sunday classes at the Well Being Studio. navah@live.com

서울 SEOUL

Cosmojin Tour cosmojin.com 02-318-0345 Fides Travel fidestravel.co.kr 02-755-5470 JNC Travel Itaewon Itching to travel? This travel agent offers worldwide discount air tickets, hotels, professional counseling, and package goods. Mon - Fri 10 am - 7 pm, Sat 10 am - 5 pm, Sun 1 - 5 pm.

02-796-9633 Unique Travel Itaewon 02-792-0606 Xanadu Travel xanadu.co.kr 02-795-7771

Ballet Stretching Itaewon Dance your days away with a diverse selection of classes available: child ballet, yoga, tae bo, yoga for pregnant women, pilates, diet dance, and even salsa classes.

Private training available. Mon–Fri open 9 am–10 pm. 124-7 Itaewon-dong, yongsan-gu.

010-9309-9021

Hotels/Accommodations KoreaHotel.com Korea’s version of Expedia. koreahotel.com 4-5 Star Hotels Astoria 02-2268-7111 COEX InterContinental 02-3452-2500 Courtyard 02-2638-3000 Grand InterContinental 02-555-5656 JW Marriott 02-6282-6262 Millenium Hilton 02-753-7788 Renaissance 02-555-0501 Ritz-Carlton 02-3451-8000 Hostels Guest House Baenang Yongsan

010-9071-4641 Guesthouse Korea Jongno guesthouseinkorea.com 02-3675-2205 Bebop Guesthouse Hongdae bebop-guesthouse.com, 070-8261-4835 Kim’s Guesthouse Hongdae kimsguesthouse.com 02-337-9894 Namu Guesthouse Hongdae namugh.co.kr 070-8291-4878 Oasis Guesthouse Indie Rock? Dance Club? Tango Millonga? Salsa Bar?Everything what do you want in Hongdae is within reach of Oasis.336-9 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul. facebook.com/oasisguest 019-291-0945 Olympic Parktel Jamsil parktel.co.kr 02-410-2114 Seoul Backpackers Myeongdong seoulbackpackers.com 02-3672-1972

Dulwich College Seoul Banpo The curriculum from Toddlers to Year 8 (ages 18 months to 14 years) follows the best practice of the Early Years Foundation Stage Framework and English National Curriculum, enhanced for an international setting.

02-3015-8500 Jai Center for Yoga and Health jaicenter.co.kr 02-3443-9642 Sanirang Alpine Networks This climbing service offers lessons, clinics, and guided tours. sanirang.net, info@sanirang.net

Dulce Y Suave Garosugil Stop by this classy Sinsa-dong wine bar for an extensive wine list that won’t break your budget. 5 pm - 3 am.

02-515-6750 Vin Ga Apgujeong Immaculate service and a subdued atmosphere make this the wine bar of choice for dinner parties and business meetings. Podo Plaza building near Apgujeong St. podoplaza.co.kr 02-516-1761

Bar Rouge Itaewon Luxurious wine and tapas bar in the basement of the JW Marriot in Gangnam. Happy hour Tue - Thu 6 - 9 pm.

02-6282-6763

Classes

Learn Korean from a pro.

All of our Korean language teachers have a Masters Degree in Teaching Korean as a Second Language or are getting one. And they all have years of experience teaching people like you!

60 | 10 Magazine October August 2011 2012

Wine Bars

3 Alley Pub Itaewon Rub shoulders with long-term Seoul expats and try your hands at darts or pool in this comfortable foreigner-owned pub.

116-15 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu.

3alleypub.com 02-749-3336

Beauty

Art Classes at Jankura Artspace Itaewon Learn to draw or paint with English instruction. Weekly life drawing sessions too! szpada@gmail.com, mstewartprintmaker.com/class.htm

Bars/Lounges/Pubs

Lounges / PUBS

Jay’s Hairdressing Itaewon Stylists trained at Tony&Guy and Vidal Sassoon Academy bring out the best in your hair.

2F 126-17 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu.

070-4227-6158 Access Consciousness What if the life you imagined was actually possible? Regular classes held in Seoul & around Korea.

Contact Nate at 010-6285-6283 or nhkent@gmail.com

Tefl Worldwide Become TEFL certified and begin teaching English abroad! TEFL Worldwide offers courses on a monthly basis. Apply now! www.teflworldwideprague.com, info@teflworldwideprague.com

InterCultural Communications Learn Korean at your home or office from experienced, professional Korean language teachers.

02-512-8443 International Guides of Korea Courses in ice climbing, rock climbing and more. iguidekorea.com

BricX Hongdae, Itaewon Chill out at either of BricX’s two locations. Hongdae 6 pm – 5 am, 마포구 서교동 409-1, B1, 02-3141-5571. Itaewon 7 pm – 5 am, 용산 구 이태원동 119-10, B1, bricx.com 02-795-5572 The Bungalow Itaewon This quirky beachthemed bar has sand on the floor, swinging chairs, and candle-lit rooms.

02-793-2344 The Concorde Classic and cozy, this wine and martini bar offers an intimate and timeless atmosphere. Reuben sandwiches, quiche, soups and salads available till 1:00 am.

02-749-1210 Craftworks Taphouse Itaewon Whet your whistle with fine craft beers including Korea’s first IPA, and stave off your appetite with some great eats. craftworkstaphouse.com 02-794-ALES Dillinger’s A classic-styled bar with seven beers on tap, great food and drink specials. Come enjoy our large flatscreen TVs, dartboards and Wii games. A great atmosphere for you and your friends.

02-793-7232 Platoon Kunsthalle Apgujeong Showcasing underground artists and a fine selection of cutting-edge performances. 11 am – 1 am. Closed Sun. 97-22 Gangnam-gu, Nonhyeon-dong. kunsthalle.com 02-3447-1191 Sam Ryan’s Itaewon This newcomer to the Itaewon scene offers sports fans eight flat screens throughout the bar along with the meanest plate of pork ribs to be found in Seoul. samryans.com

02-749-7933 Scrooge Pub/Dicken’s Lounge Itaewon A great little sports bar with pool, darts, delicious food and plenty of English-speaking staff.

02-797-8201 Seoul Pub Crawl Meet cool people, play drinking games and party all night long.

Where the bars get louder, the drinks get cheaper and the people get better looking. www.seoulpubcrawl.webs.com 010-5839-9257 Rocky Mountain Tavern Itaewon Canadians feel right at home with all the hockey jerseys hanging on the walls and great live music and events, along with some of the best buffalo wings in Korea.

Don’t miss the Stand Up Seoul comedy night the first Thursday of each month. rockymountaintavern.com

010-5775-2327 Mow Mow Your dinner: traditional Korean or Italian fusion. Your drink: fresh makgeolli from all over Korea or affordable champagne. 010-3194-0924

Beer O’Clock The bar in Sinchon has darts and several sports on big-screen TVs with great food. The Gyeongnidan location will satisfy your Canadian-style pizza needs. Beer O’Clock serves up good times. Sinchon: 02-333-9733 Berlin Noksapyeong Combining a restaurant, cafe and lounge, Berlin boasts a varied menu, plus wines and all types of music. Noksapyeong St. (line 6).

457-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. awakeinseoul@gmail.com 02-749-0903 B1 Itaewon One of the most hopping bars in Itaewon on any given night, with guest DJs and a good vibe.

7 pm - 3 am.

02-749-6164 Between Itaewon This multi-level lounge serves contemporary Italian and Spanish mains, lunch, brunch and tapas in a sophisticated atmosphere with live DJs and a spacious terrace. 124-7 Yongsangu, Itaewon-dong.

02-795-6164 Bliss Itaewon Fresh beats by DJ Shine and a reasonably priced menu. Itaewon. 4 pm – 4 am.

02-798-1125

Phillies Haebangchon The legendary local bar is now remodeled and under new ownership. Great burgers and wings.

02-793-2548 Seventy Four Cheongdam-dong A beautiful date spot featuring exotic drinks such as cheese martinis, banana mojitos and cuba libres. 7 pm – 4 am.

02-542-7412 Tony’s Aussie Bar & Bistro Itaewon . tonysitaewon.com 02-790-0793

Yaletown Sinchon Great food using only the best ingredients. Owned by a former NHL/NBA reporter, request your favorite game to watch! Now featuring “Barcraft.�

02-333-1604 Wolfhound Itaewon Terrific Irish/British classic food in a true Irish Pub atmosphere, including shepherd’s pie, toad in a hole, fish n’ chips, bangers n’ mash along with Guinness and Kilkenny on draft. wolfhoundpub.com 02-749-7971

Restaurants

FUSION RESTAURANT TEL: 02.749.0508

ě„œěš¸ SEOUL

American Chili King Itaewon Beefy burgers and chili served up by owner Kevin Cyr.

02-795-1303 Bonji Bistro Just behind Itaewon Hotel and under Gecko’s Garden, Bonji Bistro offers a terrific menu of salads, sandwiches, pastas and classic tapas along with an unbeatable bar. The floor-to-ceiling window door-walls open wide, making it the perfect place to be for their delicious weekend brunch. geckosterrace.com 02-795-9656 The Frypan Delicious fried chicken near Itaewon Station.

02-794-5598 Gallery Through Head here to enjoy fantastic meals, parties, art, and people.

02-3444-9700 Gecko’s Terrace The original Itaewon foreigner hangout, with a comfortable atmosphere, delicious food including great sandwiches, salads and pasta, and English-speaking staff that know how to make cocktails and shots right. geckosterrace.com 02-749-9425 Gecko’s Garden Legendary for its gorgeous home-style atmosphere, Gecko’s Garden has now started offering a delicious buffet, with steaks and pasta made to order. Don’t worry; the tapas menu is also still alive and well. geckosterrace.com 02-790-0540 Hollywood Grill The place for Premier League Football and other sports, Hollywood has a great menu of pizza, pasta and steaks along with darts, foosball, pool and Golden Tee. 02-749-1659

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Park’s Grill Offering the finest USDA prime dry-aged steak and fresh kumamoto oysters, along with pasta, appetizers, and wines. 94-25 Hwayangdong, Gwangjin-gu.

070-4404-0166 The Pizza Peel Itaewon Offering fresh classic Italian and Western-style pizzas.

Enjoy with beer or wine. Hard to find but easy to remember! Dine in or take out.

02-795-3283 Suji’s Itaewon Great American fare in a New York-style bistro atmosphere. sujis.net 02-797-3698 T.G. Brunch Cafe Chef Choi from Hawaii serves a delightful brunch along with his signature burgers, sandwiches, and more. Wine W2,500 for ladies.

Wednesdays wing night: 10 for W3,000.

02-749-8005 Chinese Ho Lee Chow Serving up the best North American-style Chinatown cuisine in Korea since 1998, with 5 convenient locations in the greater Seoul area to serve you. holeechow.co.kr. Itaewon 02-793-0802, Apgujeong 02-514-1730 Jamshil 02-411-0688, Dogok 02-34614468, Bundang 02-711-9071 French La Cigale Monmartre Itaewon

02-796-1244 Le Saint-Ex Itaewon 02-795-2465 Greek

Kimchi Pots

Noksapyeong Station Exit 2

Gyeongridan

Indigo A cozy cafe boasting terrific international favorites like their chicken pesto sandwich and a legendary weekend brunch at great prices.

Free wifi.

02-749-0508 Naked Grill Terrific Mexican food, salads and steaks, cooked up to order in a trendy atmosphere.

02-749-4225 Pancakes Original Story Itaewon Mon – Sat 9 am – 10 pm. 02-794-0508 Austrian Chef Meili Itaewon 02-797-3820 BRAZILIAN Copacabana Itaewon For only W29,000 you get all-you-can-eat of 7 different cuts of roasted meat and a tremendous Brazilian buffet. Make your reservations today!

02-796-1660 Bulgarian Zelen Itaewon 02-749-0600

El Grecos Gyeongnidan Authentic Greek gyros, falafel, and fish n’ chips in Gyeongridan. They’ve also got a well-stocked bar! facebook.com/ elgrecoskyungridan 070-8263-8678 Italian Fradia Gangnam Gaze out on a panoramic view of the Seoul skyline as you dine on choice Italian food at this cafe floating on the Han River. fradia.co.kr 02-3477-0033

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서울 SEOUL

La Bocca Itaewon We can’t decide whether it’s a cafe, pastry shop, deli, or wine bar, but what we are sure about is that the food is fresh and the taste is divine.

02-790-5907 Sortino’s Cucina Itaewon Classic Italian trattoria cuisine in a comfortable, homey atmosphere.

02-797-0488 Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong 02-790-0776 Villa Sortino’s Itaewon An incredible Tuscan Villa interior matches perfectly with some tastefully prepared Italian flavors. Just across from the Itaewon fire station.

02-553-9000 korean Bulgogi Brothers Delicious Korean-style barbecue at locations throughout Seoul including Gangnam, Myeong-dong (02-319-3351), Seoul Station, and Times Square. 11:30 am - 10 pm. bulgogibros.com

SPANISH Bodega Jamsil With flamenco every Friday. bodega.co.kr 02-3432-8686 Thai Buddha’s Belly Itaewon A lounge atmosphere with full bar and cocktails along with great authentic Thai food.

02-796-9330 My Thai Itaewon

02-794-8090

Saint Augustin Explore the diversity of Asian cuisine. For lunch go Thai – for dinner, order some wine! 1F, 118-17 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul. augustin.co.kr 02-790-5447 Wang Thai Itaewon

02-749-2746~7

Gourmet Foods

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/BNTBO Park Namdaemun

Gyeongnidan

Itaewon

Alice in Fruitland

Alice in Fruitland Hannam-dong Caramel apples, burito-style chicken caesar wraps, sangria ade, and other hard-tofind treats in a cafe-style setting. 243-42 Itaewon-dong. alicefruit.com

070-4217-9234 High Street Market Itaewon Fresh-baked bread, choice beef cuts, imported cheese, and value-for-money wines, and all in one shop. 737-24 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu.

02-790-5450

Phone Services

Braai Republic Itaewon Lamb chops and gourmet sausage on the grill, fresh meat pies in the oven and South African hospitality.

070-8879-1967

62 | 10 Magazine October 2012

Club Evans Hongdae clubevans.com

02-337-8361

Club Palm Hongdae clubpalm.co.kr

02-336-9016

Once in a Blue Moon Apgujeong onceinabluemoon.co.kr 02-549-5490

InterContinental Hotel Oakwood Premier Woori Bank

Hyundai Department Store

Teheranno

LINE Line 22 Samseong Stn.

Tokyo Jazz Authentic jazz music performed Mon-Sat, 9:30 pm - 12:30 am

by European, American, and Korean musicians. Two minute’s walking distance from the COEX and Grand InterContinental Hotels. 153-44 Samsung-dong.

02-3453-4472 Rock

www.bestkogi.com Itaewon 02-798-8253 Kogitjip 고깃집 Weekly specials: Unlimited refills for 1.5 hours during the hours of 5:30 pm -10 pm. (Cash only, pay-inadvance) Monday: Sirloin Day. W15,000 per person. Thursday: Samgyeopsal Day. W18,000 per person. Itaewon-dong 64-27, Maple Tree House 단풍나무집 Itaewon Classy Korean BBQ in the alley just behind the Hamilton Hotel (other branches are located in Samcheongdong and Dogok-dong). 116-1 Itaewondong, Yongsan-gu.

02-790-7977 Mexican Amigos Itaewon 02-795-9711 On the Border The #1 American chain hits that craving for fajitas, chimichangas, tacos, burritos, enchiladas and even margaritas. ontheborder.co.kr Sinchon: 02-324-0682 COEX: 02-565-0682 Times Square: 02-2672-0682 Pancho’s Itaewon 02-792-4767 Taco Amigo Itaewon 02-749-5253 Tomatillo Grill Locations at Jonggak Stn., Samseong Stn., and Yeoksam Stn. tomatillo.co.kr 02-734-9225 Middle Eastern Marakech Nights Itaewon 02-795-9441 Petra Itaewon 02-790-4433 South African

Cheonnyeondongando (천년동안도) Daehangno (Hyehwa St. Line4) chunnyun.com 02-743-5555

COEX

Charcoal-grilled, premium grade cuts of meat at non-premium prices.

(SBOE )ZBUU )PUFM Kenya Embassy

Answer Cheongdam-dong After a short-lived stint as gala restaurant Le Nuit Blanche, the club we all know and love is back. clubanswer.co.kr 02-514-4311 Ben @Blue Spirit Hongdae Great Japanese curry during the day and soju cocktails at night. Hit up the weekend parties.

360-18 Seokyo-Dong, Mapo-Gu. 02-3142-5301 Eden Gangnam Mega club with top DJs, sizzling sound, and model nights. 602 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Ritz Carlton Hotel. eden-club.co.kr 010-9913-3919 Function Itaewon The boutique club hidden in the fancy Macaroni Market restaurant. Tue, Wed, Thu 6 pm – 2:30 am; Fri and Sat 6 pm-3:30 am. 737-50 Hannnam1-dong Yongsan-gu. 02-749-9181 Heaven Gangnam The newest member of Seoul’s club scene combines top-notch technology with divine DJs spinning house and electro beats. W30,000 general admission, W40,000 for after club hours. Near Yeoksam St. clubheaven.co.kr 02-3444-4997 J.J. Mahoney’s The drinks don’t come cheap, but this nightclub at the Grand Hyatt is a favorite with the over-30s crowd. 747-7 Hannam 2-dong. seoul.grand.hyatt.com 02-797-1234 Koobar @Blue Spirit Apgujeong Hip music for a classy crowd. 664-11 Shinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu.

02-518-5115 M2 Hongdae This long-running club is party central for college students. Sun – Thu 8 pm – 4 am, Fri and Sat 7:30 pm – 6 am. Cover starts at W10,000. 367-11 Seogyo-dong Mapo-gu. ohoo.net/m2 02-3143-7573

Freebird Hongdae cafe.navercom/ clubfreebird 02-335-4576

O2 Mobile Samseong-dong Mobile phone rental, roaming installation, and Korean SIM cards for foreign phones offered at reasonable prices. Coex City Air Terminal 2F. 02-539-4355

Clubs America Latina Itaewon opens at 8 pm Wednesdays to Sundays and offers Salsa classes. Check Facebook group: Club America Latina in Seoul.

Mystik Itaewon DJ Yeonjun and DJ Crew team up with international artists to bring you some off-the-hook parties with minimal, techno, and tech house.

010-3440-9474 NB Hongdae, Gangnam Supposedly the first hip-hop club in Korea, it has one bar, two stages, and a packed crowd. clubnb. com 02-326-1716 Q-vo Hongdae A popular hip hop club with strobes pulsing above the dance floor. Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun 8 pm – 4 am and Wed, Fri, Sat 8 pm – 6:30 am.

W10,000 - W15,000. 121-210 Ohoo B/D 367-1 Seogyo Dong. clubqvo.co.kr 02-3143-7573 Volume Itaewon A true “music lovers” club, Volume is found in the basement of Crown Hotel. Fri and Sat 9 pm - 6 am.

W15,000 - W30,000. Crown Hotel B1 clubvolume.com 1544-2635 Woo Bar Check out the split-level lobby lounge for cool music and exclusive parties. No cover charge. 21 Gwangjang-dong wseoul.com 02-465-2222

02-3142-4233

Live Music Jazz All That Jazz Itaewon

02-795-5701

Jammers Hongdae jammers.co.kr

02- 325-3914

Just Blues Apgujeong justblues.co.kr

02-542-4788

SoundHolic Hongdae cafe.daum.net/SoundHolic

Massage

Healing Hands Massage Studio Itaewon Free hot stone massage with body massage on weekdays. healinghands.co.kr 010-3158-5572

To inquire about getting a logobox for your business, email us at marketing@10mag.com

Ongoing Pottery Making Class Professional potters teach you how to fire pottery by hand.

Seokbong Ceramic Museum in Sokcho.

Closed Mon. 9 am - 6 pm (3-hour lessons).

W15,000. dogong.net 033-638-7711 Through Oct 1st Donggang International Photo Festival Against the beautiful backdrop of Donggang, take part in exhibitions, workshops, portfolio reviews and more. Donggang Photography Museum in Yeongwol-gun. W500 - W3,000. dgphotofestival.com 033-375-4554 October 6th - 17th Choi Chan Hi Exhibition One of Gangwon’s own, artist Choi Chan Hi opens her eighth individual exhibition. Guam Gallery near Guam Rock, Chuncheon. Sat - Thu 1 pm 6 pm. guamgallery.com 033-261-0232

Concerts

Dine & Drink Ongoing Institute of Traditional Korean Cooking The facilities here include traditional Korean lodgings, a traditional Korean culinary museum, a traditional gallery, a traditional restaurant, and even a traditional pond. Are you getting the picture? The institute was established to preserve Korean traditional cuisine and to share it with others. ktfce.com 033-333-1012 October 19th - 28th The 4th Gangneung Coffee Festival Top baristas and 150 specialized coffee shops lure in visitors with the deep aroma of good coffee. View participating coffee shops and baristas online. Various locations throughout Gangneung City. coffeefestival.net 033-647-6802

Sport & Fitness 2012 K League Soccer Gangwon at Gangneung Stadium 21st vs Daegu 5 pm October 27th - 28th The 18th Wonju Two Days Walk More than 20 nations including Germany, Japan, Taiwan and more will participate in this walk, beginning with a bell-tolling ceremony and ending with a celebratory concert. 5km, 10km, 20km, 30km, 50km courses are available. Registration from September 12th to October 25th online.

Wonju Tattoo Stadium near Wonju Sports Complex. 6 am - 3 pm. W3,000 - W5,000. koreawalk.kr 033-762-2234

Family & Community Ongoing Experiencing the Culture of North Korea Spend the night in a traditional North Korean house and gain some insight into the lives of those living north of the DMZ. Sokcho Museum and Displaced Citizens Folk Village. W50,000 - W80,000. sokchomuse.go.kr 033-639-2977 October 1st - 4th Jeongseon Arirang Festival 2012 Since 1976, this festival has opened as a way to preserve the unique folk ballad, Jeongseon Arirang, a variation on Korea’s famous Arirang song. This year the festival has invited 25 performances and side events.

Must-sees include the Arirang Song Contest and traditional instruments concert. Festival Zone near Social Welfare Center, Jeongseon County. arirangfestival.kr 033-563-2646 October 3rd - 7th Yangyang Pine Mushroom Festival Yangyang is famous for its pine mushrooms or “songi”, which are rich in flavor and nutrition. This festival is the only time of the year that normal visitors can visit the rare delicacy’s natural habitat. Enjoy mushroom digging, treasure hunts, and other cultural events. Yangyang Event Venue between Yangyang Large Bridge and Yangyang Bridge. W3,000 - W20,000 per program. song-i.yangyang.go.kr 033-670-2723

gangwon PROVINCE Hotels/Accommodations Hotel Inter-Burgo Wonju wonju.inter-burgo.com W Hotel Wonju w-hotel.co.kr

e di t or’ s pick

Yangyang Salmon Festival October 20th – 21st and 27th – 28th In October, the small town of Yangyang highlights the plight of world fisheries and especially of local species of salmon. How? By allowing visitors to catch one with their bare hands and then take it home to cook and eat.

Guests with pre-reserved time-slots can line up on the banks of the Namdaecheon, waiting for the signal. When the gong is sounded, they rush into the knee-high river to grab a fish before the time is up. Be quick: if you don’t get one within fifteen minutes, you might go home empty-handed, watching others toast their good fortune with a five to ten kilo fish flopping in their hands. Participants are entitled to a commemorative print of a fish and a free cleaning. Look up recipes for salmon and salmon roe: if you catch a fish, you’re sure to have several hearty salmon meals. If you’re squeamish about a hand-caught dinner, the festival also has tents selling salmon sushi, grilled salmon, and salmon dunkaseu to enjoy in the crisp autumn air. Admission W20,000.

Reservations required by September 30th. salmon.yangyang.go.kr 033-670-2114 Wor d s by A i r e a n n e H j e l l e

033-766-8000 033-742-5454

Foreigner Assistance Chuncheon Online Info tour.chuncheon.go.kr/eng

Medical Services

ICCN World Intangible Cultural Festival

Gangwon National University Hospital Chuncheon knuh.or.kr/html/index.asp

033-258-2000 Gangnam Hospital Chuncheon ekangnam.co.kr 033-240-7000 Hyundai Animal Clinic Chuncheon dog7582.co.kr 033-256-7582 Ye Dental Clinic Chuncheon ccye.co.kr 033-262-2078

Museums Arari Puppet House Jeongseon arari.net 033-563-9667 Bangsan Porcelain Museum Yanggu bangsanm.or.kr 033-480-2664 Byeolmaru Observatory Yeongwol yao. or.kr 033-374-7460 Chuncheon Animation Museum animationmuseum.com 033-245-6444 Chuncheon Makguksu Museum makguksumuseum.com 033-250-4134 Forest Art Museum Hoengseong jjsoup.com 033-342-6833 Haslla Art World Gangneung haslla.kr 033-644-9411 Ilhyun Art Museum Yangyang ilhyunmuseum.or.kr 033-670-8450 Institute of Traditional Korean Cooking Pyeongchang ktfce.com/ktfce.pdf 033-333-1012 Joseon Folk Painting Museum Yeongwol minhwa.co.kr 033-375-6100 Sokcho Museum Sokcho sokchomuse.go.kr 033-639-2977 Teddy Bear Farm Sokcho teddyfarm.net 033-636-3680 Wonju Hanji Museum Wonju wjhanji.co.kr 033-734-4739

October 19th – 28th If you’re interested in more international entertainment, head to Gangneung during October 19th through 28th. During these ten days, the city will be hosting the first ever World Intangible Cultural Festival, organized by the Inter-City Intangible Culture Cooperation Network (ICCN). Dance, craft, puppetry, and food representing valuable cultural products from all over the world will be on display during this one-time event.

Stop by to catch a performance of Jamaican Creole Dance, see a Maori war chant, or sample some palacinky from the Czech Republic. Events and exhibitions take place in various locations in downtown Gangneung and cost between W800 and W6,000.

An all-access pass can be purchased for W15,000. An English-language schedule is available at iccnfestival.com/eng. 033-640-5586.

Wor d s by A i r e a n n e H j e l l e

10 Magazine October 2012 | 63

GANGWON

October 19th Kang Eun Il Haegum Plus Haegum is a Korean traditional two-string instrument which has a deep, traditionally Asian sound. Musician Kang Eun Il has gained fame as a crossover Haegum player. She will play Balloon Flower, Libertango & Cranes, Caruso, Haegum Rhapsody, and more at this “Haegum Plus” concert. Chuncheon Culture & Art Center near Chuncheon Post office. 7:30 pm. W10,000 - W20,000. ticket.interpark.com 033-251-3474

October 5th - 7th / 13th - 14th Seorak Festival Seorak Festival is one of Gangwon region’s oldest festivals.

Along with its historical value, the festival is divided into two main themes: Road Festival and Mountain Festival. The Road Festival from the 5th to 7th includes a parade, traditional ceremony, and sea fishing contest. The Mountain Festival from the 13th to 14th features group trekking and music performances. Seorak Rodeo Road near Sokcho City Hall and Seoraksan National Park. 10 am - 9 pm. seorakfestival.com 033-635-8827

Shot by Jacob Swiatczak

Art

Updates

9th Annual Jarasum Jazz Festival, Jarasum, Gapyeong, October 12nd – 14th, 2012 1

Jarasum has always offered up tantalizing morsels of creative musical endeavor to sate all but the most jaded of palates, and this year should be no exception. However, it should be noted that there is no “one big name” to slake any potential attendee’s thirst in 2012; this indicates the festival has matured enough to better balance the lineup and offer more variety. Also, organizers have expanded the lineup for the Festival Lounge (the outdoor venue before one actually crosses the causeway to Jara Island that provides live music until 4:20 pm every day), and added to the smaller, more intimate venues in Gapyeong itself, which offer live music after the Main Stage finishes for the night.

Ac ts

2

3

T

So, what’s the buzz this year? To answer this, it’s important to delineate between the Main Stage, side stages (Jazz Cube/Jazz Palette), and Party Stage performances. This year the Main Stage shows garnering the most interest are: Abdullah Ibrahim (solo piano), and Tomasz Stanko on Friday night; The Daniel Humair Quartet, and Jeff Lorber Fusion—with the Duke Ellington Orchestra closing the show with Big Band pizzazz on Saturday night; and three very diverse stylistic derivations on Sunday night. Sunday will be the night to watch, with the world music/ jazz inventiveness of the Kora Jazz Band; the pulsating virtuoso sounds of Jimmy Cobb (drums), Larry Coryell (guitar) 1 Babylove and the Van and Joey DeFrancesco (B-3 organ) Dangos, 2 Larry Coryell, in their “All-Star” combo; and the 3 Tomasz Stanko Quartet, funk/soul/jazz dynamism of the 4 Duke Ellington Orchestra John Scofield Trio closing out the weekend in style. The last two years have seen the temperature plummet considerably on Sunday night, so bring something warm just in case.

The Party Stage, which always features unique jazz fusions via first-class European groups, has a bit of a Jamaican sound underpinning this year. On Friday it’s Baby 4 Love & The Van Dangos, a twotone/ska/reggae septet from Denmark that lay it down hard—if you can’t dance hose stalwarts who braved the vicissitudes of Korea’s to this you’re in the wrong place! On Saturday, capricious early autumn weather back in the mists it’s the seriously incongruous hip-hop/reggae/ Japanese classical troupe Senk Ze from Poland of time to attend the first-ever Jarasum International who might just be the highlight of the festival, Jazz Festival must be astonished at just how far the especially for the under 30 crowd.

festival has come. In 2004, torrential rains basically flooded Jara Island and forced cancellation of the last day’s events.

But that, as they say, is all water under the bridge; the festival rebounded in style, the weather cooperated wonderfully in the intervening years, and this year’s festival—the 9th—is ready to bring another weekend of world-class jazz music to the attention of an increasingly appreciative audience.

64 | 10 Magazine October 2012

Logistics

If you’re planning to attend this year’s festival, there are quite a few ways to get there, but the best option (unless you’re driving) is to take the ITX train from Yongsan to Gapyeong Station. It’s W4,600 for a one way fare at 50 minutes, it’s fast, all seated, and comfortable. If you’re staying the weekend, book your hotel room ASAP.

Wor d s by M ic h a e l Be rry

Art Ongoing Owen Jones Exhibition Nineteenthcentury design theorist and architect Owen Jones was known for his mastery of design and pioneering of color theory.

Organized by the Victoria and Albert Museum, this exhibition showcases his Islamic-inspired patterns and prints. Aram Nuri Arts Center at Goyang Jeongbalsan Stn. (line 3, ex. 3).Tue - Thu & Sun 10 am - 6 pm; Fri - Sat 10 am - 8 pm. Closed Monday.

W8,000 artgy.or.kr 1577-7766 Through October 7th Different and Special International exchange exhibition of handicapped artists from USA, Japan and Korea. The purpose of the exhibition is to change public awareness about handicapped artists and their art works. Gyeonggi Museum of Modern Art near the office of Choja-dong. 10 am - 7 pm. gmoma.or.kr 031-481-7005 Through October 24th Matrix Garden Exhibition Artist Sim Young Cheol introduces the most common concept in the digital age: infinite replication. His installation works feature the sounds of spirit and blooming light flowers using stainless steel. Hankuk Art Museum near Korean National Police University, Yongin. 10 am - 6 pm. W1,000 W3,000. hartm.com 031-283-6418

Performance October 13th - 14th Murmures des Murs Victoria Chaplin, granddaughter of Nobel-winning playwright Eugene O’Neill, takes on the role of director in this fantastic mime performance.

Mumures is the story of a woman who travels magical alleys through secret whispers. Ansan Art Center near Gojan Stn. (line 4, ex. 1). 4 pm. W50,000 - W60,000. ticket.interpark.com 080-481-4000

Concerts Ongoing Icheon Art Hall Open Stage New stage, new passion! Take advantage of this affordable price for a range of concerts including classical, Korean traditional, ensemble, and pop. The month’s schedule includes BOB (Oct 5th), flutes (Oct 9th), Ladies’ Ensemble (Oct 11th), String Chamber Orchestra (Oct 12th) and a duo performance (Oct 25th). Icheon Art Hall near Icheon City Hall. 7:30 pm. W5,000. ticket.interpark.com 031-644-2100 October 18th Hope Concert from Four Finger Pianist Can you imagine a pianist with only four fingers? Lee Hee A proves nothing is impossible through her touching performance, moving hearts with a beautiful melody to deliver the true meaning of hope. Osan Culture & Art Center near Osan Sports Complex. 7:30 pm. W20,000 -W25,000. ticket.interpark.com 1670-7343

Family & Community Ongoing Paju Provence Light Festival Provence is a large cultural complex resembling a “Little France” in the middle of Gyeonggido. Enjoy this light show running every day from sunset until 10:30 pm in a natural, artistic space. Provence Village, Paju-si. W5,000 provence.co.kr 1644-8088 Through October 31st Seoul Land Halloween Festival Celebrate Halloween this year with Seoul

Land. Take the whole family for Dracula’s Invitation, Ghost Funny Show, Toy Parade, World Festival and other performances.

Seoul Land near Seoul Grand Park Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Mon - Fri 9:30 am - 8 pm, Sat 9:30 am - 10 pm. Entrance W13,000 W18,000. seoulland.co.kr 02-509-6000 Everland Halloween & Horror Night Don’t miss out on Everland’s annual Halloween Party. Every corner of Everland has been invaded by the Halloween spirit, with a Halloween Garden, special cat show and parade with 50 professional performers and dancers. Everland Resort, Yongin. 10 am - 9 pm. Daily Pass W25,000 - W40,000. everland.com 031-320-5000

Sport & Fitness Hockey Ice Hockey is back! Enjoy Asia League at Anyang and Goyang through September to March.

All Anyang games are held at Anyang Ice rink. ansi.or.kr 031-389-5278 4th Halla vs Ice Bucks 7pm 6th Halla vs Ice Bucks 5pm 7th Halla vs Ice Bucks 5pm 27th Halla vs High1 5 pm 28th Halla vs High1 5 pm All Goyang games are held at Goyang Eoulimnuri Ice rink. spart.gys.or.kr 031-960-0300 9th High1 vs Ice Bucks 7 pm 10th High1 vs Ice Bucks 7 pm *For more information at www.alhockey.com/ 2012 K League Sungnam at Tancheon Stadium 3th vs Sangju 3 pm 28th vs Jeonnam 5 pm Suwon at Suwon World Cup Stadium 3th vs Seoul 3 pm 24th vs Gyeongnam 7:30 pm 28th vs Ulsan 3 pm Incheon at Soongeui Arena Stadium 3th vs Daegu 3 pm 6th vs Sungnam 3 pm 27th vs Gwangju 3 pm

Goyang International Music Festival October 6th – November 17th, Goyang Aram Nuri Arts Center This year’s Goyang International Music Festival, thematically called “Melody of Autumn, Harmony of Peace”, will host eight performances in the period between October 6th and November 17th at the Goyang Aram Nuri Arts Center. From recitals to chamber music, orchestra to soloists and operas, there are performances to satisfy all classical tastes. Among the slated performers, violinist Gidon Kremer and the Kremerata Baltica chamber orchestra along with the Moscow Philharmonic Orchestra are not to be missed. Kremer and the Baltica will take the stage on Friday, October 19th at 8 pm (W40,000 - W100,000) while the Moscow Philharmonic Orchestra will perform on Wednesday, October 24th at 8 pm (W50,000 - W150,000). For a schedule of performances visit www.artgy.or.kr or www.gimf.or.kr.

For inquiries and reservations, call 1577-7766.

Suwon Hwaseong Cultural Festival

Gyeonggi PROVINCE Bars/Lounges/Pubs The Big Chill Suwon Chill out in a big way with the friendly crowd while enjoying a game of pool, darts, or wii. Opens 8 pm on Wed – Sat and 4 pm on Sun. Facebook group, edwardjorgensen@gmail.com Dublin Bar Bundang Open mic every Wednesday at 9 pm 031-708-7942 Jukjeon Gecko’s Yongin Bundang and Yongin expats should be ecstatic to know that the famous Gecko’s chain is expanding south. Near the Shinsegye department store. geckosterrace.com

031-262-9974 The Park Bucheon There are three kinds of draft beer and cocktails for your thirst, Western food for your hunger, and four LCD TVs for your sports fixation. Jungdong in Bucheon. Facebook group

010-3136-0153 Rhythm & Booze Bucheon Open mic nights, sports, concerts, and parties make this a favorite of Bucheon’s expats. Behind the CGV in Jung-dong. Open at 4 pm on Mon – Fri, 11 am on weekends. Facebook group

032-323-0161 Indie Suwon Suwon Get your groove on at Suwon’s premier live music stage, home of the Suwon Open Mic Night held every 4th Saturday. Facebook group, edwardjorgensen@gmail.com

October 5th – October 7th, Suwon Fortress and all around Suwon City As the capital of Gyeonggi-do and only remaining walled city in Korea, Suwon is steeped in history. Now in its 48th year, this festival leading up to Suwon Citizen’s Day centers on the city’s signature attraction, Hwaseong Fortress.

The festival is a healthy mix of stage performances, historical reenactments, an international food exhibition, and a free concert on the final night featuring Korean and international performers.

The 2,000-person Royal Parade features percussion groups from around the country. Following on its heels is the even larger Citizen’s Parade of civic and community groups from Suwon and Osan.

Festival opening and closing ceremonies stretch into the evening of October 5th and 7th, when professional drama and musical groups take the stage. An international food festival runs throughout the event, featuring food from Suwon and its official sister cities throughout Asia. shfes.homecall.co.kr 031-228-2068

Wor d s by C onor O ’ R e i l ly

10 Magazine October 2012 | 65

Art Ongoing Kohei Nawa Exhibition: Trans The first young artist to successfully exhibit at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Tokyo, Kohei Nawa now comes to both Cheonan and Seoul. The Trans and PixCell-Deer series features beads, prisms, texture mapping and more. Arario Gallery Cheonan near Cheonan Terminal. Tue Sun 11 am - 7 pm. Closed Mon. W2,000 W3,000. arariogallery.co.kr 041-551-5100

Geumgang Nature Art Biennale September 15th - November 30th In a season overrun with art biennales in every nook and cranny of the peninsula, Geumgang’s environmentally-conscious art symposium stands out.

“Nature art” is a genre that defies traditional description — artists use nature itself as a medium, integrating conservation-conscious alterations to the landscape to create a new sense of beauty out of the space. This year’s works include metal sculptures hung in an idyllic landscape, earth shelters infused with glass, chimes that produce songs only in certain environments, and more. In addition, educational sessions about the meaning and impact of the art will take place during the month of October.

CHUNGCHEONG

9/25 – 10/18 Indoor Exhibition: Geumgang International Nature Art Center, 9/25 – 11/18 Outdoor Exhibition: Geumgang Forest of Hope Park, 10/3 2nd Nature Art Lecture -What is Nature Art?: Geumgang International Nature Art Center, 10/25 – 11/15 Exhibition of Iranian Nature Art (Installations, Photos, Videos): Geumgang International Nature Art Center

2012 Ener-gi Project Exhibition Themed on the collaboration of art and science, this exhibition’s works focus on the modern problem of energy and the deliverance of natural, social, and nuclear science. Featuring over 20 artists from seven countries. Daejeon Museum of Art near Daejeon Government Complex. 10 am - 7 pm. W3,000 - W7,000. dmma.daejeon.go.kr 042-602-3204

Performances October 2nd - 7th Cheonan World Dance Festival This festival showcases traditional dance forms from 41 teams from around the world, with over W87 million in prizes up for grabs. Cheonan Samgeori Main Stage and other venues in Cheonan. Tue 7 - 9 pm, Wed 7 - 9:30 pm, Sun 7 - 9:40 pm. Free. cheonanfestival.com 041-900-0211 October 19th - 20th Daejeon Metropolitan Dance Theater Introduction: Cheoyong Cheoyong is a traditional Korean court dance to ward away evil that has a history of over 1,000 years. This modern interpretation from the Daejeon Metropolitan Dance Theater received the President Award at the 2011 Korea Dance Awards. Art Hall at Daejeon Culture & Art Center near Daejeon museum of art. Fri 7:30 pm, Sat 5 pm. W5,000 W20,000. ticket.interpark.com 042-610-2282

Concerts October 21st Gidon Kremer & Kremerata Baltica Violinist Gidon Kremer visits Daejeon with a chamber orchestra conducted by Kremerata Baltica. From contemporary compositions to arranged classical, Gidon Kremer will freely play all genres of innovative music. Art Hall at Daejeon Culture & Art Center near Daejeon Museum of Art. 5 pm. W10,000 - W100,000. ticket.interpark.com 042-610-2222

Family & Community

Daejeon Food & Wine Festival October 12th – October 15th Daejeon Convention Center (DCC) and Korea Exhibition Trade Center Wine aficionados and foodies alike should have 12th October scored on their calendar this fall as east meets west at the very first Daejeon Food & Wine Festival. Samples of the finest reds and whites from fourteen countries accompany over 50 different kinds of traditional Korean wine.

Sakes and liquors join an array of Korean and Western style food on the taster list too. This gathering of wine lovers features a multitude of sommelier competitions and exhibitions to sample and understand both customary and contemporary wine and food culture.

Try traditional Korean cuisine and enjoy the live jazz and classical music performances that will run throughout the day. Whether you spend your time looking for that new favorite dry white or attending an exhibition on the popularity of Korean wave, it will be hard not to fall under the spell of this relaxed event. djfoodwine.com 042-860-0151 Wor d s by A l e x Su tc l i f f e 66 | 10 Magazine October 2012

Through October 7th The 58th Baekje Cultural Festival This festival with a half-century of history will have traditional hawk hunting, cultural parades, a historical battle re-enactments and an enormous parade of light. Takes place in two cities, Gongju and Buyeo.

Near Gongju National Museum and Baekje Cultural Land. baekje.org 041-857-6955 Through October 31st Taean Dahlia Flower Festival Countless dahlia, chrysanthemum, and liatris flowers are blooming, so hurry and see them while they last, enhanced by the scenery of the Taean coast. Flower-viewing takes place at Hanseo University’s Taean Flying Field. 9 am - 6 pm. W9,000. ffestival.co.kr 041-675-7881 October 3rd – 7th The 44th Yeongdong Nangye Gukak Festival The hometown of Korean traditional music, Yeongdong, offers a great opportunity to enjoy gukak performances. The city’s beautiful scenery mixes harmoniously with the sounds of fusion gukak, Nanta performances,

traditional dance and plays. Yongdu Park near Yeongdong Stn, Chungbuk. 1 pm – 7 pm. nanmf.ns163.krdns.com 043-742-2655 October 5th - 7th The 11th Haemi-Eupseong Festival One of the most well preserved eupseong or castle towns, Haemi-Eupseong features historical experiential programs and revival of lifestyles of the past. Come and enjoy Korean traditional wedding ceremonies, plays, and dance performances. HaemiEupseong near downtown Haemi. 11 am – 6 pm. haemifest.com 041-669-5050 October 5th - 7th Danyang On Dal Culture Festival The legendary Goguryeo-era General On Dal was known for his bravery, his princess wife Pyeonggang, and his bumbling idiocy. This festival celebrates them all with concerts, traditional plays, wrestling, games, and a General On Dal dress-up contest. Danyang County, Chungbuk-do.

Fri - Sat 10 am - 9:30 pm, Sun 10 am - 4 pm. event.dy21.net 043-420-3388 October 12th - 14th 2012 Jeungpyeong Ginseng Village (Insamgol) Festival A quarter of Korea’s ginseng is produced in the village of Jeungpyeong, which holds this festival every year to celebrate its healthy rooted industry. A ginseng market, games, and experiential programs will open for three days only. Jeongpyeong Sports Complex Center. 10:30 am - 5 pm. jeungpyeongfestival.com 043-835-3977

Sports & Fitness 2012 K-League Daejeon at Daejeon World Cup Stadium 7th vs Gangwon 3 pm 21st vs Sangju 3 pm October 3rd - 7th 2012 Cheonan e-Sports Festival This exhibition and festival pits gaming teams against one another in a family-friendly battle to crown the best. Non-league participants can try out e-sports from screen golf to rhythm games to e-Goh and more. Cheonan Samgeori Park. cecf.kr 041-620-6421 October 7th Dong-A Ilbo Gongju Marathon 2012 This marathon runs along the Geum River, a road famous for witnessing 700 years of Baekje history. The course covers Baekje Road, Muryeong royal tombs, and Gongsan Castle. Select among full, half, 10km, and 5km courses. Starts from Gongju Citizen Stadium near Gongju Woongjin Library.

9 am. W10,000 – W40,000. marathon.donga.com 02- 361-1425

CHUNGCHEONG PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance Daejeon International Community Center dicc.or.kr 042-223-0789

Medical Services Konyang International Health Care Center Daejeon kihcc.kyuh.co.kr 042-600-9978 Sun Hospital Daejeon 042-220-8000

Museums Alcohol Museum: Liquorium Chungju liquorium.com 043-855-7333 Gonam Shell Mound Museum Taeangun Anmyeon Island museum.taean.go.kr 041-670-2337 Jincheon Bell Museum Jincheon-gun jincheonbell.net 043-539-3850 Korea Traditional Architecture Museum Yesan-gun English site: ktam.or.kr 041-337-5877

Design & Fashion October 13th Mokpo Rodeo Street Festival This annual event promotes the old downtown fashion street in Mokpo City. Flea markets, a cover dance contest, a tango party, fashion shows, and more will be on display. Rodeo Square, Mokpo, Jeollanam-do. tour.mokpo.go.kr 061-270-8441

Art Ongoing Gwangju Alive Gallery Exhibition Education + information technology + entertainment = a living art exhibition!

See classic and modern works of art come alive at this edutainment-themed event.

Alive Art Gallery is a brand-new concept straight from Korea. Gwangju Culture & Art Center. 10 am - 7 pm. Adults W13,000, teens W11,000. alive-gallery.com 062-613-8340

Concerts Ongoing Gugak Saturday Performance The South Jeolla Provincial Gugak Troupe has held more than 1,300 Korean classical music performances since 1986. Performances every Saturday, 5 pm, at Mokpo Citizen’s Culture and Athletic Center. W5,000. art.mokpo.go.kr 061-270-8375

professional and amateur car racing at the nation’s best circuit. Korea International Circuit, Yeongam-gun, Jeollanam-do. koreaspeedfestival.com 02-3471-1811 October 25th - 29th Jeongeup National Folk Bullfighting Competition Unlike Spanish bullfighting, Korean traditional folk bullfighting pits the bulls against each other. A showcase on cattle raising is hosted alongside the bullfighting matches. Naejangsan Culture Square, Jeongup-si, Jeonbuk-do. 10 am 10 pm. culture.jeongeup.go.kr 063-539-6352

Sports & Fitness 2012 Baseball KIA Tigers at Goonsan Stadium 1st & 2nd vs Lotte Giants 6:30 pm 2012 K League Soccer Jeonnam at Gwangyang Stadium 3th vs Gangwon 3 pm 7th vs Daegu 3 pm 21st vs Incheon 3 pm Gwangju at Gwangju World Cup Stadium 3th vs Daejeon 3 pm 21st vs Sungnam 3 pm Jeonbuk at Jeonju World Cup Stadium 7th vs Pohang 3 pm 27th vs Seoul 3 pm

Dine & Drink

Haenam Dinosaur Museum As the first museum of its kind in the region, the Haenam Dinosaur Museum introduces visitors to the rich fossil legacy of Uhang-ri in Haenam-gun. 9 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, teens W2,000, children W1,000. uhangridinopia.haenam.go.kr 061-532-7225

October 19th - 21st 19th Namdo Food Festival This festival celebrates Namdo’s famously delicious cuisine and will include tastings of traditional royal dishes as well as local favorites like grilled octopus and goat.

Nakaneupseong, Suncheon-si, Jeonnamdo. www.namdofood.or.kr 061-749-4221

Education & Conferences

Family & Community October 5th - 7th Great Battle of Myeongnyang Festival Ships re-enact the Great Battle of Myeongnyang, where the revered hero Admiral Yi Sun-sin defeated 133 Japanese warships with only 13 of his own fleet during the Imjin War in 1597. Strait around Jindo Bridge, Jeollanam-do. www.mldc.kr 061-286-5251 October 9th - 14th Memorial 7080 Chungjang Festival A culture and art festival celebrating the history of the city of Gwangju over the past one hundred years. Events include nearly every possible festival event known, from plays to concerts to food tasting to markets to art. A central celebration will feature songs from the 70s and 80s, hence the name “Memorial 7080”. Chungjang Road, Gwangju, Jeollanam-do. www.cjr7080.com 062-608-2247 October 13th - 17th Gwangju World Kimchi Culture Festival This festival celebrates Korea’s ubiquitous side dish. Programs include a Kimchi Exhibition Hall, Kimchi Industry Fair, kimchi pickling, kimchi rice ball making, cabbage harvesting, and even a K-pop Cover Contest for foreign attendees sponsored

by GFN Radio. Jungoe Park Area. kimchi.gwangju.go.kr 062-613-3641~3 October 27th - 28th Korea Speed Festival: 7th Round Experience the thrill of watching

JEOLLA PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance Gwangju International Center gic.or.kr 062-226-2733 Gwangju Blog gwangjublog.com The Jeonju Hub thejeonjuhub.com

Religious Services Antioch Presbyterian Church Jeonju andiok.kr 063-274-3228 Iri Joongang Church Iksan 063-851-4311 Musang Temple Muan-gun 042-841-6084

Hotels/Accommodations Gwangju Youth Hostel 062-943-4378 Ramada Plaza Gwangju ramadagwangju.com 062-717-7000

Radio TBS eFM Gwangju

FM 98.7 US Armed Forces Network Gunsan AM 1440/FM 88.5 Gwangju FM 88.5

Restaurants/Supermarkets Tequilaz Gwangju’s first Mexican cantina serves up your south-of-the-border favorites with magical margaritas and, of course, killer tequilas. tequilaz.com Underground Grocers Gwangju This foreigner-run food shop has those hardto-find cheeses, taco shells and other delicacies you crave.

062-232-2626

Korea Food Festival: October 18th – 22nd What better city to host a slew of food exhibitions than the food capital of Korea?

Jeonju, birthplace of the wholesome dish of bibimbap, brings the Korea Food Festival to Jeonju Hanok Village this October. This year the annual exhibition will host four main events: the International Fermented Foods Expo (IFFE), Han Style, Korea Food Plaza, and the famous Jeonju Bibimbap Festival, a celebration of the country’s most famous dish.

In 2011, over 550,000 visitors to KFF got to experience everything Korean-food related and more, as over 300 companies representing two dozen countries held down 400 exhibition booths.

Meanwhile, Korea’s ever-famous Nanta stage show performed a live set, and celebrity chef Edward Kwon filmed an episode for his cooking show featuring the festivities.

Attendees in 2012 will once again need to register for the Jeonju Bibimbap Festival ahead of time to get in on cooking classes where you can literally make your cake (well, bibimbap) and eat it too. Meanwhile, the new Han Style event gives you a seat to watch culinary masters-in-training as they create gourmet dishes before your eyes as part of KFF’s cooking competitions.

Get even more hands-on at the Korea Food Plaza, where you can sign up to make all sorts of Korean and fusion foods while participating in a range of activities from photo contests to arts and crafts. On the other side of the exhibition center, IFFE returns to celebrate the end of the idea that smelly might be bad. Fermented foods abound in an endless collection of booths featuring pungent dishes from kimchi to wines to cheese from all over the world. Foodies rejoice!

Shuttle buses are available to take attendees to and from the two-tier festival grounds of the Jeonju World Cup Stadium and the landmark Hanok Village.

If you like food – and who doesn’t – this is one smorgasbord that’s not to be missed.

Jeonju Hanok Village Exhibition Space. koreafoodfestival.or.kr 63-272-6987~8 Wor ds an d shots by Ba ru n Sa rk a r

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Ongoing GIC Talks English lectures on a wide range of subjects such as culture, history, politics, and art. Gwangju International Center. Sat 3 – 4:30 pm. Closed holidays. gic.or.kr 062226-2733

October 4th - 7th Imsil Cheese Festival Imsil City, the birthplace of Korean cheesemaking, hosts this festival every year. Events include a cheesemaking contest, cheesemaking experience for amateurs, farm experience programs, animal performances, and more. imsil.gojb.net 063-640-2114

Four Ways to Pig Out in Jeonju

GYEONGSANG DISCOVERY

The Weekend Warrior’s Guide to Busan

A Weekend Warrior, as defined by urbandictionary.com: “A person who holds a regular job during the week which restricts their ability to party/go on trips/partake in awesome activities, and thus plans epic weekend adventures to compensate.”

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t’s Friday afternoon and with little more than 48 hours of precious freedom standing between you and the drudgery of Monday morning, any selfrespecting Weekend Warrior knows that free time should be exploited and life lived to the fullest.

So this October, grab you and your buddies a couple of KTX train tickets, and blast yourselves down south to the epic costal metropolis that is Busan. With such an intensely large amount of things to experience, there’s no way you can cram it all into two days. Instead, this Weekend Warrior’s Guide will ensure you see the best that Busan has to flaunt.

By Day So you depart the KTX at Busan Station and wonder to which corner of the city to venture. If the weather’s still holding up this late into the year, get down to the subway, tunnel across town to Haeundae Station and crash down on Korea’s premier beach. If you’re looking to catch some gnarly surf, then taxi ride further still to Songjeong beach, where you can hire a board from the little surf shack.

There’s far more to Busan than its beaches however and besides, 68 | 10 Magazine October 2012

by the time you’re reading this, autumn might have already coated the mountains with its trademark shades of brown, red and orange.

In that case, amble over to Nampodong, one of the sites of the Busan International Film Festival and take in a film or two, meander through busy market streets, restaurants, street food stalls and high street shops. While here, make sure to gaze upon the grandeur of Busan held high atop Namsan tower.

Close by is Jagalchi Seafood Market, a great place to pick up some very fresh seafood or alternatively, freak out gawping at the creatures of the deep freely on display.

Geumjong Mountain, located in the northern part of the city is perhaps a better place to gaze upon Busan from a god-like height.

Take the cable car up the mountain to Indiana Jones along the cliff tops, stroll along the ruins of Geumjeongsan Fortress, peer at the Buddhists figures carved in boulders at Seokbulsa Temple and pig out in one of the many pojangmacha snack shacks that serve the knackered climbers.

Beomeosa Temple, one of Korea’s oldest and most famous temples,

Busan International Film Festival Thursday, October 4th – Saturday, October 14th 300 films from 70 countries on 36 screens Screening Centers Busan Centum City CGV and Lotte Cinema, Haeundae Megabox, BIFF Square, Nampo-dong Asian Film Market BEXCO, Haeundae Information Center BIFF Village, Haeundae Scheduled Programs Gala Presentation, A Window on Asian Cinema, Korean Cinema Today, Retrospective, Wide Angle, Flash Forward, Midnight Passion

is another popular spot despite the journey out of the city involved to reach it. An arguably more interesting temple to behold would be Yo n g g u n gs a Te m p l e, which clings to the coast and features dragon-themed Buddhist statues.

By n i g ht So you’ve e xplore d the city by day and now it’s time to paint the town red. Start your night off with a few relaxing beers down in Gwangan-li. The sundry of restaurants and bars that line the beachfront offer plenty of places to dine, drink and gaze upon the spectacle that is Rainbow Bridge by night. The cool kids here tend to hang out at Beached Bar, Thursday Party and Sharky’s.

When you’re ready to take the night up several notches, check out the pumping tunes, pulsating lasers, superstar DJs and hypnotised clubbers at one of Haeundae’s discothèques; Maktum, Murphii or Elune are the most popular.

Wor d s an d shots by Be n C ow l e s

preserve tradition as a cultural asset.

Donghwa Temple, Palgong Mountain. templebazar.or.kr 053-986-9575

Art Ongoing Busan Biennale A major international culture and art contest and festival, Busan Biennale will feature 40 artists and 200 works under the umbrella of “Garden of Learning”. Busan Museum of Art and other locations. busanbiennale.org 051-503-6111 Centennial Celebration of Lee In-Sung’s Birth Artist Lee In-Sung (1912-1950) created a remarkable artistic legacy in the field of Korean contemporary art in the 1930s-40s, characterized by his abundant use of symbolic colors and refined sensibility. This exhibition was conceived to shed new light on the life and artistic world of a master of Korean contemporary art for the centennial celebration of his birth. Daegu Art Museum. 10 am - 7 pm.

Closed on Mondays. W700 - W1,000 daeguartmuseum.org 053-790-3000 Kwak Hoon: Poem, Tea and Zen These installations by Kwak Hoon, one of Korea’s leading modern artists, revolve around poetry, tea and Zen in order to express Buddhist thought and Eastern philosophy.

Daegu Art Museum. 10 am - 7 pm. Closed Monday. Daegu Grand Park Stn. (Line 2, ex.

5) Shuttle bus every 30 minutes. daeguartmuseum.org 053-790-3000 Through October 21st Scenes of a Hot Country: Contemporary Vietnamese Art This exhibition features dynamic works from some of Vietnam’s most well-known contemporary painters.

Busan Museum of Art. art.busan.go.kr 051-740-4254 Through October 28th Daegu Photo Biennale This year’s Daegu Photo Biennale will exhibit select quality artwork by photographers from Korea and abroad who appreciate the new, as well as the mainstream discourses in international contemporary photography. Daegu Culture & Arts Center. 10 am - 8 pm. daeguphoto.com 053-655-4789

Theater & Dance Ongoing Miso II: Shilla, The Land of Gods This non-verbal performance illustrates the thousand-year history of Shilla with traditional Korean dance and music. Three acts touch upon the divine founding of Shilla, the love story of Seondeok and Yongchun, and the Silla Road. Expo Cultural Center of the Gyeongju World Culture Expo. Tue - Sun 7 pm. Closed Mon. W20,000 – W50,000. sillamiso.chongdong.com 054-740-3800

Family & Community

Through October 28th Dadaepo Sunset Fountain of Dreams: Music Show The Dadaepo Sunset Fountain of Dreams, a 2,519-sqm installation able to propel water up to 55 meters above the ground, is listed in the Guinness Book of World Records as the biggest floor fountain on Earth. Its nightly show is a beautiful visual spectacle of colors and soaring shapes. Dadaepo Beach in Busan. 8 & 9 pm. No show on Mondays. saha.go.kr 051-207-6041 October 1st - 14th 2012 Jinju Namgang Yudeung Festival “Yudeung” means “lantern” in Korean. This festival features great night scene with lit up lanterns floating on the Nam River, along with fireworks and a river ship.

Attendees can create and float their own paper lanterns. Around Namgang in Jinju City. yudeung.com 055-761-9111 October 4th - 7th Cheoyong Culture Festival & Ulsan World Music Festival During this festival, more than 25 musicians will perform world music along with dance and projection shows. On top of that, the UMWF Cinema session will put music and movies together.

Ulsan Culture Arts Center and Daldong Munhwa Park. cheoyong.or.kr 052-260-7544 October 6th - 7th 2012 Ulsan Youngnam Alps Flame Grass Festival The seven beautiful mountains in the Youngnam area have been nicknamed the “Alps of Youngnam”. During the fall, they are covered in beautiful flame grass.

This festival celebrates the sight with music, rituals, and group hiking. Sinbool Mountain, Deung-ok-ri, Ulsan. kaf.or.kr/kafulsan 052-296-8848 October 11th - 14th The 21st Busan Jagalchi Festival The traders in Jagalchi Market shout to customers “Oiso, Boiso, Saiso” which means “come, see, buy” in Gyeongsang province dialect. Enjoy a variety of things to come, see and buy at this fish market festival.

Jagalchi Stn. (line 1, ex. 10) and Nampo Stn. (line 1, ex.2) ijagalchi.co.kr 051-243-9363 October 12th - 14th The 8th Dongnae Eupseong Historical Festival Remembering the fierce fight against Japanese during the 16th-century Imjin War, this experiential festival revives history through a military marching parade plus traditional games and performances.

Dongnae Cultural Center Near Myeongryun Stn. (line 1, ex. 4). 10 am - 8 pm. festival.dongnae.go.kr 051-550-4000

Through October 7th Bukcheon Cosmos and Memil Festival Relax and enjoy cosmos and memil (buckwheat) flowers in Bukcheon-myeon.

Take a walk and relieve your stress in the beautiful flower-filled fields. Hadong-gun, Bukcheon-myeon. tour.hadong.go.kr 055-880-6341

October 12th - 14th 2012 Yangsan Sabryang Festival Sabryang was the old name for the city of Yangsan.

This festival connects the city with its historical roots as Korea’s center of nature and trade through street performances, gala concerts, and hands-on programs. Yangsan Sports Complex Event Square. 11 am - 8 pm. yangsanfes.com 055-392-2547

Andong Mask Dance Festival 2012 Experience traditional Korean mask dance Talchum, which was once used to satirize and ridicule the landed gentry of the Joseon Dynasty, alongside other international mask performances alongside the beautiful Nakdong River. Hahoe Village

October 12th - 15th 2012 Seungsi: Mt. Palgong Modern Temple Bazaar Festival A seungsi was a type of traditional market that produced and retailed Buddhist products. This festival features various Buddhist music, food, exhibitions, and more in an effort to

October 26th - October 27th 8th Busan International Fireworks Festival Busan’s annual firework festival will be held at Gwangalli Beach this year.

The main fireworks will be set off at 8 pm on Saturday the 27th. Gwangalli Beach and Gwangan Bridge bff.or.kr 051-441-3121

Education & Conferences October 10th - 12th Daegu Fashion Fair 2012 Daegu has reinvented itself as a leader in textiles and fashion manufacturing in recent years. This exhibition focuses on the business side of fashion, featuring trend workshops and buyer-exhibitor matching. Free. EXCO. 10 am - 6 pm. fashiondaegu.com 053-721-7437 October 11th - 14th Korea International Golf Expo, Busan 2012 See and experience tools, materials, and equipment related to golf, and compare clubs, memberships, tours, and more. Attendees are also eligible for golf-related prizes. 2 pm - 6 pm Thursday, 10 am - 6 pm Friday to Sunday. W2,000.

BEXCO at Centum City Stn. (line 2, ex. 1) golfbusan.com 02-6000-1512 October 18th - 21st Busan Baby & Kids Fair 2012 From pregnancy to preschool and beyond, this fair introduces a diverse range of products related to babies and kids directly from the product manufacturers. BEXCO at Centum City Stn. (line 2, ex. 1) babynkidsfair.com 02-761-2512 October 25th - 27th Busan International Shoe Show Find a huge range of shoes all in one place. BISS will exhibit shoes for sports, outdoors, walking, medical practice, safety, and fashion. Distribution networking and a shoes business seminar are also available.

BEXCO at Centum City Stn. (line 2, ex. 1). 10 am - 5 pm. Free. biss.kr 051-979-1880 October 25th - 28th The 8th Gyeongnam Sacheon Aerospace Expo Sacheon holds a aerospace festival every year to celebrate and promote its airline industry, which produced its first airplane through its own efforts. Events include “Night of Airspace Mania”, performances, an air show, contests, and more. Sacheon Airport and Aerospace Theme Park festival.aerospace.go.kr 055-831-2064 October 25th - 31st The 12th Busan International Architectural Culture Festival This event will identify the direction of improvement for Busan city. Open to architects and citizens who are interested in architecture.

Architectural tours, competitions, a space forum, and an urban regeneration session will be held. Busan Design Center biacf.org 051-888-4760

Sports & Fitness 2012 K-League Soccer 3rd Gyeongnam vs Jeju at Changwon Soccer Center 3 pm 3rd Busan vs Jeonbuk at Busan Asiad 5 pm 6th Busan vs Suwon at Busan Asiad 3 pm 6th Sangju vs Gwangju at Sanju Citizen Stadium 5 pm

October 28th The 7th Kolping Family Love Marathon Participant registration runs on the website until October 11th on a firstcome, first-served basis. Race starts from 9 am and participants should arrive before 8 am. Busan Gyeongnam Horse Racing Park. marathon.knn.co.kr 051-850-9977

Gyeongsang Foreigner Assistance Busan Foundation for Int’l Activities bfia.or.kr 051-668-7900 Geoje Foreign Resident Association gfra. net 055-687-9332 Ulsan Global Center 052-229-2810 Ulsan Online ulsanonline.com

Medical Services Centum Eco Clinic Busan Reliable medical care from a doctor specializing in ENT, internal medicine and pediatrics. Located in the shopping center of the Centum Park Apartments in Haeundae-gu, Busan.

051-731-1522

Bars/Lounges/Pubs Busan Aligote Wines, cheese platters, and excellent service. Haeundae.

6 pm – 3 am.

051-731-3322 Basement Open mic nights on Tuesdays and parties galore.

011-9294-2391 Fuzzy Navel Great drinks and great Mexican food as well.

011-1757-6349 The HQ Bar Kyungsung’s only foreignerowned bar with sports and dart games. thehqbar.com Rock ‘n’ Roll House Western-style bar with darts and pool and a great view of Haeundae.

051-742-5553 Sosa Bar A cozy latin bar close to Pusan National University.

051-513-0070 Wolfhound The same classic food and drinks from the Seoul location, but right on Haeundae Beach.

051-746-7913 Daegu Ping Bar Great drinks, a pool table, and music upon request. Samdeok Catholic Church. 7 pm - 5 am. withhyk@hanmail.net 053-422-7708 Jinju Soundgarden Behind Gyeongsang National University. soundgarden. cyworld.com, zakkie@hanmail.net 055-753-2248, 010-6478-2248 (owner)

Clubs Daegu Club That Located on the rodeo just down from the Samdok fire station. clubthat.co.kr 053-427-7171 Old Skool Hip hop bar great for dancing, socializing or drinking. “Old SkooL: Daegu Muzik Club Bar” on Facebook.

Busan Elune Lots of international acts.

Paradise Hotel 010-5525-4055 Maktum Club dancing, events, launching shows, sports parties. 9 pm – 6 am. maktum.co.kr, 051-742-0770 NEO Starface “Latin Club” Saturdays boast a live band and/or DJs. 051-746-1746 Vinyl Underground Delivers fresh breaks, house, funk, electro, tech house, hip hop.

B2 Han La Building. 9 pm - 6 am.

051-628-0223

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Through October 21st My Hometown, Southern Sea Works by artists from coastal cities will be exhibited in this sea-themed exhibition. Moonshin Art Gallery in Changwon. 9 am - 6 pm.

Closed Monday. moonshin.changwon.go.kr 055-247-2100

in Andong City. W2,000 - W7,000 maskdance.com 054-841-6397

October 20th Global Gathering 2012 More than 70 nationalities will gather at this festival to show their own unique cultures, offering food, customs, clothes and cultural experiences. 10 am - 5 pm. Haeundae APEC Naru Park globalgathering.or.kr 051-668-7914

8th Ulsan vs Jeju at Ulsan World Cup Stadium 7:30 pm 14th Pohang vs Ulsan at Pohang Steelyard at 3 pm 21th Ulsan vs Jeonbuk at Ulsan World Cup Stadium 5 pm 24th Pohang vs Busan at Pohang Steelyard 7:30 pm 27th Sangju vs Gangwon at Sanju Citizen Stadium 3 pm 28th Gyeongnam vs Jeju at Changwon Soccer Center 3 pm 28th Daegu vs Gyeongsang at Daegu Stadium 3 pm

Island Adventures

Art

Travel

Ongoing Jeju Glass Castle This theme park features unique glass pieces by artists from all over the world. Highlights include a magic mirror room, glass lake, and giant pyrex beanstalk. Jeju-si. Mon - Sun 9 am - 7 pm.

Children W7,000, teens W8,000, adults W9,000. jejuglasscastle.com 064-772-7777

October 31st - November 3rd 2012 Jeju Olle Walking Festival Beginning on the 31st at Olle Route 10, festival-goers can walk routes 10, 11, 12 and 13 where the festival will be held.

Along the courses, cultural performances and food will be served by local residents.

To enjoy this festival fully, make sure to walk slowly and admire the beautiful scenery. Register in advance online. jejuolle.org 064-762-2190

Performances Ongoing Jump Currently in its second decade, this popular martial arts comic performance shows no signs of slowing. Halla Art Hall at Cheju Halla College. Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun & holidays 8 pm. Closed Mon. W40,000 - W50,000. hijump.co.kr 064-749-0550

Travel

Check your adrenaline levels: Jeju Island is not just for beach bums and nature lovers anymore.

Jeju Island is known throughout Korea for its beautiful beaches, gorgeous scenery, and laid-back lifestyle. It is often the ideal destination for summer vacations or a weekend getaway for locals and expats alike. However, Jeju is not only for those seeking rest and relaxation; it is an island full of activity.

Jeju Furey Competition One such activity well-known to expats on the island is the Jeju Furey volleyball competition.

Each year there are two major tournaments hosted by The Furey Foundation, a charity organization created in 2009 by the island’s expat teachers in honor of one of their own who passed away.

To date, the Furey Foundation has raised over W36 million for charity. The 8th volleyball tournament, called BVB8 for short, will be held on the 20th and 21st at Iho Beach. It’s an action-packed weekend with ten volleyball nets hosting matches all day, delicious food, a dance party at night, and a ton of good-natured competition. Check out the “Jeju Furey” and “Jeju Furey BVB8” Facebook pages to register your team and join the fun. Getting There: Jeju Furey BVB8 will be held at Iho Beach October 20-21. Buses to the beach are available from Jeju City, towards Hagwi.

J e ju from Above If you’re look ing for less comp eti tion but more adrenaline then check out Daheeyeon MultiTheme Park and its Zipline Jeju. The park itself consists of the astonishing Cave Café, educational Tea Museum, breathtaking organic green tea fields, unique DogLand, and finally the exciting ZipLine experience. With four courses that take you over the green tea fields, through the cedar tree forest, and over the purity pond, this high-flying zipline is an exhilarating way to see the beaut y of Jeju Island.

Getting There: Daheeyeon Multi-Theme Park can be found at 600 Sunheul-ri, Jochun-eup. Visit www.daheeyeon.com or call 064-782-0005 for more information.

Wor d s an d shots by M a ry R age r-Su mm e rs

Nanta This very popular non-verbal performance (first staged more than a decade ago) is a feast for both the eyes and ears, turning ordinary kitchen pots and pans into rhythmic beats. Jeju Media Center in Jeju City. Sun 8 pm, Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 8 pm. W40,000 - W50,000. nanta.i-pmc.co.kr 064-723-8878

Family & Community Ongoing Hueree Nature Park Feed and pet animals including rabbits, goats, ostriches, calves and pigs. Animal performances are also featured.

Seogwipo-si. Mon - Sun 9 am - 5 pm.

Children W6,000, teens W7,000, adults W9,000. hueree.com 064-732-2114

Gachi Tour Planning your vacation is half the fun! Get started today with a call to Gachi Tour. gachitour.com 1644-8488

Theme Park

O’Sulloc Tea Museum A must for island visitors. Learn the history of Korean tea while enjoying it freshly roasted with ice cream or baked goods.

Namjeju-gun. Mon - Sun 9 am - 6 pm. Free. osullocmall.com 064-794-5312 October 6th - 14th The 8th Jeju Horse Festival This annual horse festival was created in 2003 as a way to preserve the Jeju horse as a symbol of the island. Under the theme of “Horse and human in a body”, there will be parades, show competitions, equestrian lessons and more. Jeju Racehorse Park culture.jeju.go.kr 064-741-9251

Sport & Fitness 2012 K-League Soccer Jeju at Jeju World Cup Stadium 27th vs Busan 3 pm October 6th - November 11th 2012 Jeju Leisure Sport Festival The month-plus festival will revolve around six track meets. A dance sport and hip- hop competition on the 6th and a triathlon at Iho Tewoo Beach on the 6th and 7th. The 15th National Sea Fishing Contest will also be held on the 7th at Sebudu Seawall.

Finally the 2nd National Kiteboarding Competition will be on the 12th to 14th at Jongdalli Beach. Pre-registration is required for all events. Main booth at Topdong Square. jejusi.go.kr 064-728-2751

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Kimnyoung Maze Park The challenge is the thrill of the search and the reward is the taste of success in ringing the bell! San 16, Kimnyoung-ri, Gujwa-eup, Jeju-si, Jejudo. jejumaze.com 064-782-9266

Radio Arirang Radio Jeju City: FM 88.7 Seogwipo: FM 88.1

E di t ed b y J ih y e C ho and S onia H ensle y

NETWORKING CALENDAR Shots courtesy of British Chamber of Commerce Korea. Taken at BCCK September Business Lunch with Ambassador Scott Wightman.

Tuesday, October 17th SIWA Coffee Morning Come and join SIWA’s coffee morning. Get together and share experiences and tips for Seoul life. Build your circle in Korea. The Grand Ambassador Hotel. 9:30 am - 11:30 am. siwapage.com

Thursday October 11th FKCCI Café du Commerce Join and network at the Café du Commerce in an informal and French atmosphere. Novotel Ambassador Gangnam. 6:30 pm - 8:30 pm.

W26,000. fkcci.com 02-531-6868

Friday, October 19th Brazilian Community Monthly Lunch This growing community of Brazilians in Seoul meets for lunch on the third Friday of every month. Contact bomdiaseul@gmail.com for details on this month’s event. bomdiaseul.com

Commonwealth Chambers Networking Evening 2012 Join BCCK for a night of spectacular networking among all of the Nations of the Commonwealth.

Waterfall Garden, Grand Hyatt Hotel Seoul. 6:30 pm - 9 pm. Other details TBA. www.bcck.or.kr 02-2076-8407

Saturday, October 20th Business Network Korea Meetup October A new networking group for professionals in Seoul convenes for their second meeting. Ace High End Tower 6, 60-25, Gasan-dong, Geumcheon-gu, Seoul. 4 pm to 6:30 pm. W30,000 pre-paid or W50,000 at the door. www.businessnetworkkorea.com 010-4181-7814

AWC October Monthly Meeting Enjoy hiking with new friends, followed by an Austrian lunch at Chef Meili’s lunch. Course is 1.5 hours, all fitness levels welcome. Wear comfortable shoes and bring water. Meet at Paris Baguette in front of Hamilton Hotel, 10 am. Members W20,000, non-members W25,000. awckorea-seoul.org

Tuesday, October 23rd BASS Monthly Meeting Join BASS members for the group’s regular monthly meeting. Speaker to be advised.

Hallasan Room at The Seoul Club. 10 am - 12 pm. britishseoul.com

Wednesday, October 24th BIWA Coffee Morning Come and join BIWA’s monthly coffee morning held on the fourth Wednesday of every month.

Upstairs at the Starbucks, Pale d’CZ Building (next to Paradise Hotel), Haeundae Beach area, Busan.

9:30 am - 12 pm. biwa-korea.com 010 4168 4145

SIWA Working Women’s Network This evening get-together is planned every month for professional women who can’t make midday networking events. Held the final Wednesday of every month.

Contact michellefarnsworth@live.com for details on the month’s event. siwapage.com AWC BASS BCKK BIWA FKCCI

American Women’s Club British Association of Seoul British Chamber of Commerce in Korea Busan International Women’s Association French Chamber of Commerce and Industry Korea RASKB Royal Asiatic Society Korea Branch SIWA Seoul International Women’s Association

To list your event, email us at calendar@10mag.com or call 070-7464-4625 10 Magazine October 2012 | 71

NETWORKING CALENDAR

Wednesday, October 10th BIWA Monthly Luncheon All members are invited to this luncheon held in Busan on the second Wednesday of every month.

Location TBD. 10 am - 2 pm. biwa-korea.com 010 4168 4145

Granny’s Snails Words by Andrew Barbour , Illustration by Pat Volz

O

ur next-door Halmoni is rather plump and a bit leathery from whatever she did outdoors in her younger years. She walks with a f lower-print cane and has a broad dimply smile. Her eyes look just like the ^^ emoticon, and she has small, thick hands at the end of substantial arms that she wraps around k ids, pulling them into her enormous, child-smothering breasts. “아 이유, 내 장난꾸 러기들, 할 머니 안 아 줄 래? ” (Oh my little rascals, will you give Granny a hug?) she says.

“H R M PH F F!! ” my k ids say, flailing their arms until they’re released.

Since we moved into ou r apartment a few years ago, Ha lmoni has a lso a lways brought us the best of whatever produce is in season, presumably through her granny network at the covered market down the street. Typically, it’s peaches and grapes in the summer, apples and pears around Chuseok, and Jeju mandarins around Seollal. Once, Halmoni brought us some of those persimmons that look like dried apricots covered in powdered sugar and taste like the soulc r u s h i n g d i s a p p o i nt m e nt that they are not, in fact, dried apricots covered in powdered sugar. But she also brought us a bunch of those fist-sized winter strawberries, so overall she’s had a pretty good record.

Back in May, I wondered whether she might soon bring us some of those wonderful Korean watermelons. My w ife reminded me that Halmoni is 83 and not up for the task of lugging around water-

melons, to which I responded with the observation that she probably had a spare bra she could carry them in. My wife responded with nothing, because that’s how she conveys her disgust with me.

But how do you politely turn down this sweet, wobbly old lady when she comes to give your family snails? Yeah, you don’t. You graciously accept the cardboard box full of leaves and eight snails,

and later go buy the watermelon yourself because snails love watermelon, and because Halmoni herself apparently has no connections in the watermelon industry. Anyway, the kids were thrilled since they were our family’s first pets. Halmoni scored again.

The next week, Halmoni visited again to give us some outstanding watermelons, proving both that she did have the

right market connections, and that a pair of her deceased husband’s slacks with the legs knotted up would carry watermelons far better than a giant bra. We invited her in, and immediately she fixed her eyes on the snail tank on the bookshelf, asking me (with the subtlest tone of disappointment), “왜 달팽이 안 먹었어요?” (Why do you not eat the snails?), revealing her inexplicable misapprehension that I was a Frenchman.

So… do you embarrass this gentlest and k indest of old ladies by letting her know that she has been ignorant of your nationality for the four years you’ve been neighbors, or do you insult her generosity by refusing to eat this delicacy that she procured for you on her 8 3 -yea r old ha nd s a nd knees on a wet morning in the park across the street? Yeah, again, you don’t.

You f umble for a moment and tell her that “이제 까지 달팽이가 안 익어서 그래요” (It’s because they weren’t ripe until now). And when that fails to settle the matter and an expectant smile blossoms on her face as she locks eyes with yours, you send the kids into the other room because somehow you decide you’ll save face for everyone by eating a live snail of considerably greater mass and grittiness than you expected. Halmoni looked very pleased though.

Also, you skip the rest of watermelon season because there’s some compound in them that interferes with the medicine you’re taking for the snail-borne parasites in your intestines.

I’m really looking forward to persimmon season.

Andrew Barbour is a Connecticut-licensed attorney working at one of Korea’s largest conglomerates. He has lived in Korea for My God, What Is It Now, Seven? Eight Years?

Pat Volz is a former Las Vegas caricaturist and current Seoul English teacher. His artwork has appeared in online and print publications from Austin to Australia, and a few places in between.

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