10 Magazine 2009 November Part 1

Art • Theater • Concerts • Film • Community • Fitness • Dine & Drink • Nightlife

Korea awaits! • novemBER 2009 VOL. 2 NO. 2

BUSAN's

NIGHTLIFE RENAISSANCE

Plus: Fashion: A Walk Down Garosu Street Sport: Hockey in Korea A Taste of Korea: Bulgogi And 10’s Incredible Calendar!

Printed using 100% soy ink.

Executive Chef Sebastiano Giangregorio, the best ingredients, the gracious Italian hospitality and the sophisticated atmosphere make dining at Antonio an evening to remember.

2 New Special Sicilian Set Menus!

Live Jazz — Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, 7:30 - 10:30 pm.

Artist Ji-hoon Ha Exhibition Opening Ceremony — Sunday, November 15th, 3 pm - 5 pm.

Executive Wine Dinner with "Giacomo Grimaldi".

— Wednesday, November 25th, 7 pm. By reservation only.

Gangnam-gu Cheongdam-dong 93-8, Tel 02-3443-4333 www.antonios.kr

08 FROM THE EDITOR

/ A SHOT OF KOREAN 10 LETTERS

/ KOREA BY THE NUMBERS 12 STYLE

GARUSO-GIL, THE PARIS OF SEOUL 16 LIFESTYLE NEWS

7 LUCK CASINO RAISES THE STAKES 18 A TASTE OF KOREA

BULGOGI 20 IN THE KITCHEN

STEFANO DI SALVO,

CHEF AT THE PARK HYATT SEOUL 22 10 QUESTIONS

KIP RICHARDSON,

PRESIDENT OF KOBEAK FOODS 24 THE 10 HOTEL & RESORT NEWS

16

24

NOVEMBER 2009 vol.2 No.2 28 SPORTS & FITNESS

HOCKEY HITS THE ICE IN KOREA 32 NIGHTLIFE

HOT SPOTS FOR YOUR NIGHT OUT 34 COVER STORY

THREE WAYS TO PARTY IN BUSAN 40 NEWCOMER DIRECTORY 41 CALENDAR

NATIONWIDE, REGIONAL, NETWORKING 54 FOODIE FINDS

JEONG SIK DANG

NEW PLACES: FLO / TOMATILLO GRILL 60 KOREAN DESTINATIION

FALL HIKING AT SEORAKSAN PARK 70 LOCATIONS WITH 10 72 A HAPPY ENDING

BIG IN KOREA

34

42

Korea Awaits...

Online !

List of 10 Magazine Online features • Search 10 Find just the info you're looking for.

• Interact with 10 Post your comments and opinions on our articles.

• Read all the 10s Check out all of our issues with links to our online "e-book" format.

• Check Out Online Exclusives Bonus content from our terrific contributors.

• Join 10 Join us to get daily updates on hot events through Facebook and Twitter.

• Vote on "The Reader's 10" Give us your input on the best 10s in Korea! This month's: What's the best Italian restaurant in Korea? Check out the results in our December issue.

(Hurry - you must vote by Nov. 15th!)

CEO

Sang-tae Kim sangtaekim@10magazine.asia

Executive Editor

Jai-yoon Kim jaiyoonkim@10magazine.asia Stephen Revere sr@10magazine.asia David Carruth dc@10magazine.asia Grace Sun gs@10magazine.asia

Managing Editor Assistant Editor

Contributors

Aaron Allinson, Michael Berry, Adam Boothe, David Carruth, Frances Darwin, Peter DeMarco, Samantha Dix-Hill, Dami Kang, Paul Kang, Curtis Lee, Hyeon-seong Ryu, Kyoung-hee Lim, Joe McPherson, Charles Montgomery, Paul Schenk, Grace Sun

General Manager

Kyoung-hee Lim kl@10magazine.asia Dami Kang dk@10magazine.asia Jiheh Kim jk@10magazine.asia

Coordinator

Hugh Lee hlee@10magazine.asia Ethan James ej@10magazine.asia

Art Director Photography

marketing@10magazine.asia calendar@10magazine.asia contribute@10magazine.asia comments@10magazine.asia subscribe@10magazine.asia

Marketing Inquiries Calendar Events Contribute Questions/Comments Subscriptions Cover Image

Designed by 10 Magazine Art Director Hugh Lee. Background photography by Peter DeMarco, photograph in mirror ball of Gwangali Bridge and surrounding area provided by Busan Metropolitan Government.

Please Recycle This Magazine 10 Magazine Vol.2 No.2 등록번호 서울 라 12065 (Registration: Seoul Ra 12065) ©10 Media Inc. Address 10-21 Nonhyeon-dong Gangnam-gu Seoul 135-010 서울시 강남구 논현동 10-21 Phone 02-3447-1610 www.10magazine.asia 10 Magazine is published monthly by 10 Media Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Printed by Kyohaksa Publishing. Co., Ltd. 6 |

10 Magazine November 2009

KOBEAK FOODS® IS PROUD SUPPLIER TO:

Mexican Favorites Just Like Back Home!

ON THE BORDER IS THE NO. 1 MEXICAN RESTAURANT IN THE U.S AND currently there are 3 locations in Seoul. Famous for fresh, homemade dishes and the freshest ingredients, the fiesta at On the Border begins with crispy bottomless chips and salsa to go along with spectacular tacos, burritos, fajitas, enchiladas, chimichangas and tremendous margaritas. Visit us at one of our nearby Seoul locations today! www.ontheborder.co.kr Kobeak Foods ® is an Australian joint venture company specializing in supply to restaurants concerned with safe, high quality meat products from around the world. We carry all varieties of meats –beef, pork, poultry, lamb, venison, sausages, hamburgers and much more. Look for the "Kobeak Foods" mark at your favorite restaurant to ensure you are getting the best and safest quality products available.

3F, 59-11, Kuui-dong, Kwangjin-ku, Seoul, Korea | Tel; 02-454-3435 | Fax; 02-458-1302 Keep watching this page for special offers and opportunities from Kobeak Foods !

On the Border Locations Sinchon 02-324-0682

Coex CALT 02-565-0682

Times Square, Youngdeungpo 02-2672-0682

FROM THE EDITOR

Join Us at Our New Website!

So I walk into my local watering hole, and a nice young gentleman approaches me immediately and says, “I love your book.

It has really helped me with my Korean studies.” Of course, I’m always honored by this sort of greeting, and it makes me happy to meet someone firsthand who has used my books. He also mentions that he’s watching “Let’s Speak Korean!” the TV show I taped years ago teaching Korean on Arirang Television. Thank goodness for Youtube, which has kept those shows alive and helping people with the Korean language.

So I ask him, “Have you read my new project, 10 Magazine?”

A look of bewilderment comes across his face. “What magazine?”

Now it just so happened that this establishment was one of our advertisers, and therefore had free magazines available for its customers. I reach over and hand him a copy and he says to me, “Oh, I didn’t know you were making this.”

There seems to be a disconnect between my past efforts and 10 Magazine. I’m sure part of it stems from the fact that other than this page, I don’t write articles for the magazine. This is because 10 is not about me, but about the readers, who are also the writers, photographers and contributors. Yes, 10 is about giving you information about things to do, see and enjoy here in Korea, but 10 Magazine is also a way for us to teach each other, a way for people to connect and build a sense of community among foreigners and English-speaking Koreans.

That’s one reason I’m so excited about our new website. Now you can go to our site and read past articles and finally comment on them! We’ve crawled our way into Web 2.0, and we need your help to make 10 better. So head on over to 10magazine.asia and let us know what you think!

Stephen Revere Managing Editor

A SHOT OF KOREAN 짭짤하다.; (Jjap-jjal-ha-da.) vs 짜다.; (Jja-da.)

An interesting contrast: these verbs both mean ‘salty’ but ‘짭짤하다’ is kind of a positive meaning – appropriately or just a tad salty and at the same time its slang meaning is ‘wealthy’. On the other hand ‘짜다’ means ‘too salty’ and its slang meaning is ‘to be cheap’ as in ‘Scrooge’ cheap, not cheap price. 고등어가 짭짤해요. – Go-deung-oh-gk jjap-jjal-hae-yo.

– The mackerel is tasty (appropriately salty). 오늘 수입이 짭짤해. – O-neul su-ip-ee jjap-jjal-hae.

– We made good money today. 김치가 너무 짜다. – Kim-chi-ga no-mu jja-da.

– This kimchi is too salty. 월급이 너무 짜요. – Weol-geup-ee no-mu jja-yo.

– My salary is too cheap. 짠돌이 – Jjan-do-ri – A cheap guy. 짠순이 – Jjan-sun-i – A cheap lady.

Check out Survival Korean and Survival Korean: Basic Skills for more Korean lessons from 10’s Managing Editor, Stephen Revere.

8 |

10 Magazine Novemebr 2009

DIS 10 CO % UN T Korean Musical

English Reservations koreamiso.com

2009년1월 - 12월 오후8시 8pm Jan.-Dec. 2009 Info. 02-751-1500 www.chongdong.com

No performance on Monday

Formerly ColumbiaPlus Dental Clinic

Now in new location at Oakwood Hotel (connected to Coex Mall) from September 4th

LETTERS I am an Australian teaching English at four schools in a couple of tiny villages in Chungcheong-bukdo (North Chungcheong Province). I have been here for just on 18 months and love the rural lifestyle with occasional visits to the bigger cities. I came across your magazine in early June this year when I was searching for information on Jeju Island. Your June issue had a very interesting and useful article on Jeju Island - thank you for that. I subscribed to your magazine and enjoy receiving my copy every month. I have found your articles informative. I find the calendar with its “Editors Picks” especially useful. My son, who was in Korea this month on his way back to Australia from London, enjoyed reading your magazine also and was able to find out about various venues/activities/club. that he was interested in visiting during his stay. In fact you may remember we ran into you at The Fuzzy Navel in Busan just recently. We visited that establishment and also went to a performance of the stage show "Jump" after reading about them in the September issue of your magazine. Keep up the good work! I think your magazine will appeal to young and old with its mix of information.

Debra Speldewinde, North Chungcheong Province Normally we just respond to these letters from “10” but considering I was lucky enough to bump into Debra personally, I think I should take care of this one myself.

Thanks so much Debra for sharing with us the ways in which 10 Magazine has helped enrich your time here in Korea. This is exactly why we started this magazine. Many friends and Korean newcomers complained to me that there was nothing to do here in Korea, but after learning the Korean language and an extended stay here (I start my 15th year next month) I knew that there were more than enough things to do here. Since starting the magazine I have found out that there is more to do, see and experience here than even I had imagined. I sincerely hope that 10 Magazine helps open people’s eyes to the seemingly hidden gem that is South Korea.

Stephen Revere Managing Editor of 10

Korea By The Numbers

0.1% 18%

Decrease in monthly household income since the second half of last year.

Increase in household interest payments on debt since the second half of last year.

22,800

The number of marriages in July.

A 12% year on year decrease.

11,300 The number of divorces in July. A 24% year on year increase.

Tel:02-569-8745 www.radental.kr

10 | 10 Magazine Novemebr 2009

STYLE

Words by Grace Sun, Shots and design by Alaric Willi

Take a walk down the leafy street of Garosu-gil (literally translated as "tree-lined street"), and you might be pleasantly surprised by what you find. European-style alfresco dining, whimsical boutiques and quaint coffee shops line the street, and a plethora of hidden jewels are nestled in the quiet alleys behind. Although not quite Paris, locals like to call it that, and who are we to disagree? Amateur photographers and models stroll deliberately down the street, fashionable ladies lunch in overlooking patios, and trendy couples walk hand-in-hand down the tiny lanes that hold quirky shops and cafes. Take a walking tour with 10 Magazine’s Fashion Editor and discover this local treasure and some of the boutiques it has to boast.

Directions: Start at Exit 8 of Sinsa station on Line 3.

Walk straight past Cold Stone and Paris Baguet te, take the first lef t, and you’ve arrived!

he first undeniably Korean thing you will see is the overbearing yet rather avant garde Coffee Smith, usually overflowing with patrons on the weekend. Next door is Understar, an underground shop with some interesting clothing and accessories and a great selection of leggings. Just across the road from Nescafe is Dainty, which sells men’s madeto-order suits that mimic current runway trends, followed

by Vivien Bis, with its hip vintage inspired pieces, while 12 | 10 Magazine November 2009

around the corner Shop Ordinary is far from ordinary with its small collection of funky suitcases, cute jackets and accessories. Venture further down that lane and you will find Spring Strings, which showcases a marvelous array of knockout jewelry and glasses. Before heading back onto the main street, don’t forget to also take a look inside Time & Style, an adorable café/boutique that stocks lavender oils, hemp soap, handbags, and has a great chillout ambience for those who want to eat cookies on a colorful dome chair.

Accessories from ‘Farmer’

Back on the main street, don’t miss Farmer (see our picks) and dami, stocking exquisite handmade jewelry with delicate stones. Victoria Bay leads in the area of classy evening and business wear, but it’s the gorgeous golden poodles next door at Piona Shop who always steal the show. Move on and you will see Artist, a casual collection of alternative T-shirts and jeans, and Artist Plus, which stocks some high fashion dresses and sleek jackets, although all in rather small sizes. Move onto Les choix de caramel, which has a great collection of ladylike minimalist pieces, and the dollhouse looking eat home is an emporium of interesting accessories, t-shirts and other clothing at good prices.

from ‘Bru Ruf f le top ,000 W 34

Across the road is brush (see our picks), and the monochrome 11st, with its crisp black and white shirts and pants. Jiny’s Closet is abundant in fur, tights, zips, ripped jeans and all things street, and you’ll find some good winter pieces at About Some. Continue on next door to the funky retro aran, followed by pretty scarves and dresses at Top Secret, before you reach maki (see our picks) and nothing, which has some interesting bits and pieces. Don’t miss London Sole, the undisputed international leader of flats just before the eponymous Mug for Rabbit, a favorite resting area for the 10 crew.

Pink feather skirt from ‘Isnana’

sh’ Moving on, take a peek into Flow, which has landed some eclectic street fashion from good designers, and boasts an array of high top sneakers in standout colors. Babara shoes does some good flats without the London Sole pricetag, and Isana surprises with some outstanding ladylike pieces.

Finally, give the international brands a look – Kate Spade and Tse at the end of the street never fail to impress.

Although certainly not exhaustive, the shops we have listed here should keep you busy on a fine afternoon. Venture out into the lanes and away from the main street to find more treasures and quiet coffee shops to read a great book. Happy Shopping!

Fox fur beanie an d pink halter to p from ‘N othing’

from ‘K ate Canvas bag 0,000 Spade’ W 17

Vintage Outfit from ‘60 Mod’

www.e-athome.co.kr

On the other side of the street, you would have passed by mogool, a fabulous Korean chain which does quality headwear with a twist; and MMMG, a local icon which has canvas bags and kitsch stationery down to a T. For those missing a taste of home, the A&H NY State Outlet next door sells old stock from Macy’s, Bloomingdales, Neiman Marcus and Saks at 50-85% off. People to People specializes in clothing with drapy, comfortable fabrics; and 6533 is the place for more urban streetwear. Lumiere is another shop worth visiting, with its sexy silk and elegant ambience and the catwalk clothes to match. Turn right after Café Marly towards the end of the street, and you will find some cute shoe stores like the Premium Shoes Shop Room and Shoe Bar by Jung K.

10 Magazine November 2009 | 13

STYLE

OU R PIC KS

60 mod turn left to find this In the firs t lane just before Nesc afe, used clot hing in kille r clas sic vint age stor e, stoc king all grou nd, Mar ilyn , Aud rey styl es. 60’s mus ic play s in the back the dÊcor, and with y and Jack ie O pict ures fit perfectl era, incl udin g the rent diffe a of ever ythi ng is rem inis cent e stor e is stat eme nt jewe lry. This quai nt littl e with a hom back s shop age a rem inde r of vint quin tess enti al Kor ean twis t.

Farm er ban ds Prob ably the best rang e of chic head are a es piec e thes , mun outs ide of Don gdae have they as kets mar the in e cut abov e thos tiny This . side r thei on lity qua and y crea tivit , llery shop has an exce llen t rang e of jewe and is one of hair piec es and othe r acce ssor ies on leve l Also et. stre the the busi est stor es on ong. ongd Mye in ding buil n 5 of the new Noo brus h its whit e The shopfron t itse lf calm s you with clot hes The s. rior and beig e ligh ting and inte stri king yet le simp s, tone insi de are in mut ed th a wor Well . edge al msic piec es with a whi look-see .

Mak i stor e in Mos t nota bly the best hom e/liv ing ky littl e quir this ney, Kos t Seou l afte r the gian are that s find off oners offe hole -in-t he-w all at Ewh a, i Mak the out k chec Also ial. trul y spec e diffe rent whic h offe rs a larg er line and som 2 of the exit of prod ucts . Walk stra ight out you will and ion Stat ty Ewh a Wom en's Univ ersi t. righ the on n dow ks bloc see it a coup le of

Mug from 'Maki' 14 | 10 Magazine November 2009

Korea’s Gaming Reaches a New Level his past October, Korea’s gaming industry took it to the next level with 7 Luck Gangnam’s addition of a 3rd floor VIP Level. For those who enjoy high-stakes gambling, 7 Luck has created a small paradise in which to indulge their whims.

Everywhere you turn you feel the luxury. The walls are adorned with giant video-artwork monitors, displaying visuals like traditional Korean painting styles, but with seasons changing every few minutes and a lifelike snowfall in winter. The full-leather chairs are imported directly from Italy just for 7 Luck. Lighting and décor give you a sense this is more like Monte Carlo than Gangnam. And you’ll never have to wait for a seat as 7 Luck has just trained 71 new dealers to staff the 19 main floor tables and 5 VIP rooms.

And those VIP rooms are truly spectacular, boasting private men’s and women’s bathrooms, astonishing décor, and amazing dangling chandeliers.

There’s even a top-of-the-line massage 16 | 10 Magazine November 2009

chair in each private room for real relaxation in between hands.

And of course services are comparable to the atmosphere. Want to play blackjack in a private room set up for baccarat? Simply request that they change out the table, and it’ll be ready for you in no time. Care to have a private bar set up? Talk to the Casino Host, and he’ll get all your favorites arranged.

With tables on the main gaming pit starting at the couple hundred thousand range, most of us may not be joining in on the games there, but the second floor is always open with terrific gaming available and all the great services of a world-class casino. Complimentary drinks and dining are part of your gaming experience on every floor, and in between hands or spins feel free to walk up and take a tour of the third floor. With a little luck downstairs you can always make the move on up when the time is right.

From top: main casino floor with video artwork, private rooms

Edited by David Carruth

Spread the Right Rumors with Cube Innovation

Y

ou want to spread the word about your product, but your potential customers are bombarded with so many advertising images each day that they unconsciously start rejecting them all. How do you get the word out in a form that people will accept?

Advertising agency Cube Innovation has a solution, and it’s based on the Web 2.0 internet model, in which people use social media to share their

Nanta Opens New Myeongdong Theater

N

ow established as one of Korea’s representative performances, Nanta keeps setting up and knocking down records.

The non-verbal percussion and comedy show has been performed nearly 14,000 times and seen by 4,800,000 people. It not only represents Korean tradition but also Korean energy and passion.

Nanta is marking its 12th anniversary this year with the opening of a new theater in Myeongdong, an essential stop for tourists in Korea. Located on the 3rd floor of the Unesco Building in the middle of Myeongdong, the new theater adds an artistic flavor to a street already known for shopping, style, and salons. With 386 seats, the Myeongdong Nanta theater is the largest of the four Nanta locations, giving tourists another reason to keep coming back to Korea. nanta.i-pmc.co.kr, 02-739-8288

opinions and experiences with each other. In Korea, the so-called “power bloggers” on Naver have earned the trust of Korean netizens (internet users) and taken on the role of the gossips of the internet.

Cube Innovation adapted to these developments in internet media early and offers you the services of 500 of these internet gossips. Your customers may not listen to the traditional commercials anymore, but what they do pay attention to are the brand-name bloggers whose opinions they have come to rely upon. Cube Innovation makes viral marketing in the blogosphere work for you. cubecorp.co.kr, 02-3482-3230

ATEK News: E-2 “Crime Wave” Doesn’t Hold Water

ATEK is a non-profit, non-political support group for foreign English teachers in Korea. You can find out more about ATEK and join up at www.atek.or.kr

L

Bloom & Grow Offers Big Bargain on Baby Buys

ast month, National Assembly Representative Gun-hyeon Lee released crime statistics and stated that crime by foreign English teachers was at a “serious” level.

Yet as Matt VanVolkenburg pointed out in a recent Korea Herald article, the very same statistics state that 99 crimes were committed by foreign English teachers in 2008. According to the Korea Immigration Service, in 2008 there were 19,771 teachers on E-2 visas. Therefore, in 2008, 99 out of 19,771 teachers were convicted—a crime rate of 0.50 percent, half of the crime rate for Koreans.

& Grow’s innovative ‘one-of-a-kind’ products include the British Hippychick Hipseat, launched in Korea in 2006 and now one of the best-selling carriers in Korea. Bloom & Grow products can be found at Agabang, Emart, Toys R Us, and other similar stores in Korea, but to benefit from the discount this month send an email to hannah.biggs@bloomandgrowasia.com. bloomandgrowasia.com

F

or November only, Bloom & Grow Korea is partnering with 10 Magazine and offering readers a 10% discount across all products.

Bloom & Grow, bringing the best of European baby products to Korea and other Asian countries, offers multi award-winning top selling brands, providing mums in Asia the best that Europe has to offer. Bloom 10 Magazine November 2009 | 17

A TASTE OF KOREA

Bulgogi

A

(불고기)

Words by Paul Schenk Director of Food and Beverage InterContinental Hotels Seoul

side from kimchi, the most well-known Korean tough. Bulgogi is also cooked in the ttukbaegi stone pot. dish is bound to be bulgogi, the ever-popular beef I still remember the amazing flavor of the marinated meat stir-fry. Literally meaning “fire meat,” the only the first time I attempted this dish over twenty years ago. It’s fire in this mild meaty feast is beneath the grill. actually quite easy to prepare and present. Originally the cut used It has sated Korean stomachs for more than a thousand years, for bulgogi was beef neck or shoulder, though now prime cuts are but the name "bulgogi" itself only goes back to the end of the more common. The meat is very thinly sliced, marinated and then 1800s. Before that, the royalty of the Joseon Dynasty knew it as grilled. The marinade is similar to kalbi sauce, a concoction of Neobiani, now a term reserved for grilled meat of thicker cuts soy sauce, pear juice and onion juice (or ground pear and onion), dipped in kalbi sauce. sesame oil, sesame seeds, crushed garlic, and finely chopped So what goes into green onions. the dish that has been Bulgogi works well a Korean staple since on social occasions, the Dark Ages? Bulgogi and you’ll want to share usually contains beef, the experience with though that can be friends and family. At a swapped with pork (dwaeji restaurant, expect a grill bulgogi) or chicken (dalk in the middle of the table bulgogi). Whatever the as well as plenty of side meat, it’s not usually dishes. Traditionally, the grilled directly like galbi grilled meat was eaten just but rather cooked in a with rice and the sides, traditional dish resembling but recently it has become an upside down wok customary to dip it in resting on the grill in front the salty soybean sauce of you. You can use a known as ssamjang and normal skillet, but you’ve wrap it in lettuce leaves got to keep the heat high before digging in.

Photo image courtesy of Chaesungdang, www.chaesundang.co.kr so the meat doesn’t get K-Food – get into it!

The Two Places for Bulgogi

Gwangyang Bulgogi

Eonyang Bulgogi in Ulsan

Those of you interested in eating your way around Korea need to start out with an area just outside of Ulsan city called Eonyangeup (Eonyang district).

There will be tons of great places to try traditional Korean bulgogi but if you want to follow the Korean bloggers to their favorite place, then visit Hanmadang Hanwoochon. uriso.co.kr, 052-262-2047 18 | 10 Magazine November 2009

From left, Seoul style, Eonyang style bulgogi, Photo image courtesy of Bulgogi Bros.

Always a Safe Bet Bulgogi Bros.

There aren’t many chains out there as most Koreans have their favorite local place to visit, but you can’t talk about quality bulgogi without mentioning perhaps the best chain for Westerners out there - Bulgogi Bros. This chain offers up truly spectacular Korean bulgogi and other quality meats for grilling

along with a great wine selection as well as traditional Korean liquors and a very comfortable atmosphere – read booths, cushioned chairs and no sitting on the floor! Truly a great blending of the best of East and West, with 15 locations across Korea leaving at least one within your reach. bulgogibros.com

Move on to the south coast and an area famous for delicious food – South Jeolla Province. There, the city of Gwangyang just outside of Yeosu has built its reputation for tremendous bulgogi, and while many places will have delicious bulgogi, only one can be the best – and according to the Korean blogosphere, the best is Samdae Gwangyang Bulgogi. sdbulgogi.com, 061-763-9250

Ulsan Gwangyang

The Sortino Family Welcomes You to Korea's First Italian Family-owned Cafe, Deli, Pastry Shop and Wine Bar!

02-790-5907

IN THE KITCHEN

H

eading the Park Hyatt’s Cornerstone restaurant, with its high ceilings and wood-burning ovens, Chef Stefano di Salvo brings Italy’s heart to Seoul.

Growing up in Genoa, di Salvo started his culinary education as a teenager. From there, he mastered the gamut of Italian regional cooking and embarked on a career that has taken him to cities such as London, Bangkok and Shanghai.

Chef Stefano proclaims that the best part of his globe trotting journey has been meeting new people. He gets to meet more through the monthly cooking classes he teaches.

As for cooking itself, Chef Stefano stresses the importance of grounding in the basics while insisting on the best ingredients.

The ingredient profile in Korea is his great joy and frustration.

The Jeju black pork he compares in quality to Tuscan black pork, especially the belly and chops. He likes to braise it with apples for an astonishing thirty-six hours to make it tender and succulent. Korean oysters and mushrooms offer great pleasures.

In September, Chef Stefano hosted cooking classes on cooking Korean pine mushrooms, one of the world’s most expensive delicacies. The earthiness of ginseng is also a great find to experiment with and goes particularly well with sea bass in his book.

His frustration stems from the high tariffs and limited

Park Hyatt Seoul’s

Chef Stefano di Salvo Words by Joe McPherson, Shots by Ethan James

availability of what European cuisine considers basic ingredients.

Artichokes are not grown in Korea, but customs slaps them with a high tariff.

Charcuterie such as salami also has to be imported at astronomical prices. The great painful irony is that, for some unknown reason, Korea can’t import Italian salami, which is a frustration for the Genoese chef.

Yet the sign of a great chef is not what you can do with gourmet ingredients. It’s what you can do with what you have available. Chef Stefano’s creativity and skill have gotten him accolades from diners and the press thanks to his incorporation of Korean ingredients into desserts. Korea doesn’t have a dessert tradition, considering that the concept of dessert originated in 18th century France. Aromatic ginseng and complex omija berries inhabit fine desserts that display Chef Stefano’s classical training.

The Cornerstone keeps everything seasonal with special menus and unforgettable events. In early November the annual Masters Food & Wine at the Park Hyatt will showcase two Michelin-starred chefs, sommelier guided wine tastings and even a foie gras cooking demonstration. There will also be special Thanksgiving and Christmas dinners in November and December.

20 | 10 Magazine November 2009

Chef di Salvo’s Maccheroncini with Mushrooms and Parmesan Cheese Ingredients

• 400 grams Maccheroncini or Elbow Macaroni, dried • 480 grams various Mushrooms, chopped • ½ to 1 cup Vegetable Stock • Parsley, chopped • Whole Parmesan Cheese • Salt and Pepper, to taste • Extra Virgin Olive Oil, to taste Sautee the mushrooms in a little olive oil. Add vegetable stock until it covers the mushrooms, bring to a boil. Cook the elbow macaroni in salted boiling water and drain. Toss the macaroni with the mushroom sauce in the pan with some freshly-grated parmesan cheese, salt, and pepper, letting the pasta absorb some of the sauce. Plate it and garnish with parsley, shaved parmesan cheese, and a few drops of olive oil.

10 Questions

Kip

20-Year Korean Resident and President of Kobeak Foods

Richardson Interview by Curtis Lee, Shots by Ethan James

1. When did you arrive in Korea and how old were you?

I have actually “arrived” in Korea four separate times - in 1979, two months prior to Park Chung-hee’s assassination (which could make for a whole separate, but interesting, interview), back again in 1982 and again in 1984 and then finally settling in late 1996 to the present day.

brainchild, so to speak. It was researched and studied for a year at Cargill’s expense but then turned down for being “too small” (only a US $1 million investment).

The Australian supplier to Outback Steakhouse picked up on the idea and ran with it. As I like to tell people, Kobeak is an Australian-Korean joint venture run by an American.

2. What brought you here at such a young age?

I was first a Mormon missionary for two years which really honed my language skills. I learned 100 ways to say “Not interested,” “Nobody’s home,” and “Thanks, but no thanks.” Fortunately, Koreans are quite polite; otherwise it could have been much more traumatic (he says with a smile). I was then back for exchange study at Yonsei University and to teach English. At the end of 1996 I arrived as the Asia Sales Director for Cargill, a large multinational agriculture company. It seems a long progression, but my personal goal from a young age was to live and work in Korea.

7. How was your business impacted by last year’s demonstrations against American beef?

I believe the demonstrations actually launched us into recession a bit earlier than the rest of the world. People stopped going to restaurants, reduced their beef consumption almost entirely (not just US beef) and just got wrapped up in food politics for 3-4 months. Add to this the sharp rise in 2008 exchange rates and the result was a less than spectacular year. However, we still managed to increase our sales by 30% with the addition of a full range of products for Samsung/Tesco Home Plus.

3. What are some of the biggest changes you have seen in Korea in the many years you have been here?

The huge transformation that took place between 1984 and 1988 for the Seoul Olympics was stark. I was absent from Korea during that time and returned during the Olympics for business.

I was quite surprised to see all the bridges, hotels, and office buildings that had sprung up over such a short time. Being in the food business, however, I tend to dwell more upon the huge improvements in the type and quality of foods available in supermarkets and restaurants. For example, imported cheese of any kind was completely unavailable during the early 80s. The large import duties still make cheese and other imported foods expensive, but positive change has taken place.

8. There’s a huge difference in meat consumption between Koreans and Westerners. What are the typical annual consumption rates?

Yes, it’s stark and makes for interesting results when Western studies urge consumers to cut back on meat (usually beef) consumption. Korean media will pick up on these studies and apply them locally even though the consumption patterns and amounts are quite a bit lower in Korea. It’s always interesting that the studies on tobacco and alcohol consumption don’t strike the same chords as the food studies. Westerners consume differently from country to country usually with the Argentines leading the way, but most consume more than 40 kg of beef per capita annually. Koreans consume less than 8 kg, and this likely dropped even lower after last year. All in all, Koreans already have a very healthy diet.

4. Do you have any good stories from “the old days”?

I always like to tell the story of my first “pizza” in Korea in about 1980-81, which consisted of a base vaguely resembling pizza crust topped with tomato ketchup as the sauce, then odeng (fish sausage) and all covered with sandwich cheese. Compare that to the gorgonzola with honey pizza I can buy from my little neighborhood pizza joint today! That’s a great example of how much things have changed and improved food-wise over the years.

5. How did you end up in the meat and poultry business?

I got an interview with a small meat processing company close to my home town in California during a trip home for my sister’s wedding.

Turned out this small company was owned by Cargill. I started as an Asia Sales Manager and just rode the boom in opening Asian markets and increasing meat consumption. Believe it or not, my language skills got me involved in selling parts of the cow we Westerners tend not to consume much anymore. We were the first and largest US exporter of intestines to Korea, a delicacy Koreans still consume today in such dishes as gopchang jeongol and haejangguk. In the early years, nearly half my sales were of Korean-specific internal organ meats. Yum! 6. When did you start Kobeak Meats?

Kobeak started in 2005 and is only five years old now. It was my

9. Do you have any pet issues related to your business?

Sure, import duties on food are much too high in Korea. Beef, for example, is 40%, so for every W1,000 you spend on beef, W400 goes to taxes. The food cost in Korea is a huge component to running a business which leads to using lower quality brands and inferior quality products. Koreans spend over 30% of their income on food, whereas Americans spend about 7-8%. Korea is not the highest in the world on income spent for food, but it is close.

10. It sounds like you’re in Korea to stay.

What are your future plans?

Yes, I am now past the age where it makes much sense to do or go anywhere else unless North Korea opens up! I want to make a name for Kobeak and hope to participate in the changes to professionalize the food industry here. For example, Korea is one of the few places in the world where 5 star hotel chefs are often not allowed to make the final decision on food purchases.

This is usually done by a local purchasing manager who has little if any practical experience with brands, food quality, imported foods, or other issues. This is one of the practices that need to change if Korea is to globalize and improve its marketing of local cuisine. The politics need to be removed and the professionalism needs to come in. Anything I can do toward that end will put a nice finishing touch on my time here.

10 Magazine Novemebr 2009 | 23

Edited by David Carruth and Dami Kang

Check In and Check Out Japanese Fine Dining JW Marriott Seoul

On November 11th, Japanese restaurant Mikado at the JW Marriott Seoul holds its grand opening with an exciting new menu and a remodeled kitchen and restaurant interior.

The Japanese dining experience offered at Mikado includes a sushi bar with prime seats for viewing the cooking process, multicourse kaiseki Kyotostyle haute cuisine in one of seven private dining rooms, and the more relaxing kappo style seated across from the chefs. A happy hour promotion from 8:30 pm – 10 pm includes twofor-one sushi and a free glass of draft Hite Prime when ordering from the a la carte menu. marriott.com, 02-6282-6751

Sino-Japanese Culinary Contest Grand Hilton Seoul

Compare the Asian delicacies at the Japanese restaurant Mitsumomo and the Chinese restaurant Yeohyang this November and December and decide for yourself which restaurant at the Grand Hilton deserves the prize. Mitsumomo is offering hotpot, sashimi, and shabushabu all made from swellfish, a highly poisonous fish that must be prepared with the utmost care. Lunch/dinner: W85,000/ W135,000++. Next, you can visit Yeohyang to sample the dazzling flavors of Hong Kong, including shark’s fin soup on the lunch menu and whole abalone among the dinner selections. Lunch/dinner: W59,000++/W100,000++.

02-2287-8888, 02-2287-8787 24 | 10 Magazine November 2009

+ = subject to 10% VAT, ++ = subject to 10% VAT and 10% service charge

All Aboard the Christmas Train Millennium Seoul Hilton

With the holiday season fast approaching, the Millennium Seoul Hilton is ready to unveil its yearly Christmas tree and Christmas train. On display from November 22nd through midJanuary, the huge 10-meter Christmas Tree will be placed in the center of the main lobby, and the 120-car Christmas Train will chug its way through a miniature village in the Alps installed in the lower lobby.

Also in the lobby of the hotel is the Gingerbread House, a charming store where Christmas shoppers can find tasty treats and handy stocking stuffers for their Christmas list. hilton.com, 02-317-3012.

Stay Longer for Less

Hilton Golf & Spa Resort,Namhae If you’re planning a longer vacation this winter, you’ll want to know about the Winter Package at the Hilton Namhae Golf & Spa Resort. Available from November 15th to December 25th, the package features a 50% discount on the room fee from the second night for all guests planning to stay at the resort for more than two nights. The basic package price, starting at W340,000+ for two people, includes a deluxe suite overlooking the crashing waves, a buffet breakfast at the restaurant Breeze, free entrance to the spa, and a free coupon for a warm cup of Namhae yuja tea. hiltonnamhae.com, 055-860-0100

Wine Her and Dine Her

Imperial Palace Hotel A poet once daydreamed of “a loaf of bread, a jug of wine, and thou,” but that was before the Imperial Palace Hotel. This fall each weekend from November 6th to December 12th, the Romantic Weekend Package offers the two of you a premium wine buffet dinner at Café Amiga as well as one night in a deluxe room. At the wine buffet, mix and match thirteen kinds of premium wines and liquors with dozens of delicious dishes spanning the world of cuisine from tenderloin steak to eel teriyaki. The price of W250,000++ also grants guests admission to the fitness center and pool. imperialpalace.co.kr, 02-3440-8000

Edited by David Carruth and Dami Kang

+ = subject to 10% VAT, ++ = subject to 10% VAT and 10% service charge

Chinese Cuisine of a Different Caliber

Get Away from It All

There’s lots of Chinese food to be found in Seoul, but the Chee Hong Chinese restaurant at the Ritz-Carlton, Seoul will soon offer an experience transcending jjajangmyeon and sweet and sour pork. Hailing from the Qi Resaturant at the Ritz-Carlton’s Beijing location, Jason Hou will be in Seoul from November 15th – 30th to show off the culinary talent refined over twenty years in locations throughout Asia. Guests are particularly recommended to try Jason’s marinated lotus root, Chinese yam with blueberry, and sliced goose liver touched with sake. ritzcarlton.com, 02-3451-8273

Novotel Daegu City Center, the only international hotel in Daegu, wants you to get away from it all this fall.

With the Getaway Package, guests are offered accommodation in a Superior Room, free access to the sauna and fitness center, wireless internet, and two welcome drinks at the Rendezvous bar or Terrace café (W139,000+). Other fall deals include free accommodation and breakfast for two children under 16 years old, an expanded menu at the Novotel Daegu’s buffet restaurant The Square, and a splendid buffet on Thanksgiving Day (W35,000+). novoteldaegu.com, 053-664-1111

The Ritz-Carlton, Seoul

Novotel Daegu City Center

Autumn the Italian Way

Renaissance Hotel Seoul Warm up this autumn with some hearty fare at the Renaissance Seoul Hotel’s Italian restaurant Toscana. Resident Italian chef Sergio Zanetti is preparing a special autumn menu based on authentic Toscana cuisine, featuring a wide variety of antipasti and homemade pasta dishes as well as entrees including Sergio’s popular Australian lamb loin in hazelnut crust, carrot puree and caramelized beets. Autumn menus are priced from W18,000++ a la carte to W60,000++ for the chef’s special set menu. 02-2222-8647/8626

She’s a Barbie Girl

Sheraton Grande Walkerhill She may not look it, but Barbie turns 50 this year, and the Sheraton Grande Walkerhill is celebrating the occasion with the Barbie Package-Ltd. Ed. Available starting November 1st, the first 50 guests to make reservations will receive a one night stay in a Club Suite Barbie Room, complete with pink and white décor and topped off with Barbie accessories. The package provides complimentary breakfast at the Club Lounge, happy hour, and an exclusive 50th anniversary Generation of Dreams Barbie doll. Two adults and one child are included in the W380,000++ price. sheratonwalkerhill.co.kr, 02-2022-0000 26 | 10 Magazine November 2009

A Day at the Spa

Novotel Busan Ambassador With the Novotel Ambassador Busan’s Autumn Spa Package, offered through the end of November, visitors to Busan discover that there’s more to the city than a couple of nice beaches. Guests on the package can enjoy a night in a deluxe room and free access not only to the sauna but also to the gymnasium and ocean view pool. Keep expenses down in style with 10% off at the F&B restaurant and half off at Ryan & Lillian (except for screen golf). W150,000++ with surcharge for Friday and Saturday stay and ocean view rooms. novotelbusan.com, 051-743-1234

Sports & Fitness

In Korea

Words by Aaron Allinson

Fall is back, and with it, the beginning of the

Shot by Ethan James

9-month odyssey of emotion and intrigue that is the NHL hockey season. For hockey fans (AKA Canadians), it is a time of fresh hopes and high expectations for our home teams.

Living in Korea used to mean following the scores online and catching the occasional game on AFN. Technology has saved us with free streaming broadcasts, NHL. com subscriptions and satellite TV. But what about going out for a weekend scrimmage or catching a live game? Again, hockey on the peninsula has come a long way.

Professional ice hockey has a small but loyal following in Korea.

There are two Korean teams that play in the Asia Hockey League (www.alhockey. com) against Chinese and Japanese clubs.

The games are fast paced, with end to end action, all making for an enjoyable afternoon of hockey.

The Anyang Halla ice hockey club play out of the Anyang Sports Complex.

Their season started in early September and continues into mid-February. The schedule resembles a baseball format,

with teams visiting for a 2-3 game series.

Tickets are W6,000 at the gate, or you can reserve ahead for larger groups or even purchase season tickets packages.

Check out anyanghalla.com for team information and a map to the Sports Complex. The closest subway stations are Beumgye Station on Line 4 and Anyang Station on Line 1.

Korea’s other professional team is High1, formerly Kangwon Land. The team plays at the Koyang Ice

Rink and at Chuncheon Ice Rink. Their website (sports.high1.co.kr) is not as helpful as Halla’s so it’s best to use the Asia Hockey League site above for scheduling information, although there is a schedule in Korean on the message board of their site.

Koyang is located in Gyeonggi Province.

The rink is most accessible by subway line #3 at Wondang or Hwajeong Stations. From the stations, a taxi will have you at the rink in 10 minutes. In Chuncheon they play at the Eui-am Ice Rink on Euiam lake, just next to Doosan Resort.

Photo images on this page courtesy of Anyang Halla and High 1 10 Magazine November 2009 | 29

Sports & Fitness

Rocky Mountain Tavern Wolves, Shot by Ethan James

RECREATIONAL HOCKEY is also growing in Korea with teams scattered throughout the peninsula. Living in Seoul provides the most opportunities to join a team as there are ice times available throughout the week.

The Halla Premier Hockey League, with beginner and elite divisions is one of the most organized and competitive leagues to play in. Formerly the Jim Peak Hockey League, teams are generally Korean with perhaps a foreigner or two on them, the exception being the Rocky Mountain Tavern Wolves, which is an elite division team completely made up of players from North America (full disclosure - also sponsored by 10 Magazine). For more information, visit Halla Premier’s Korean website at jphl.com.

The Seoul City Chiefs were founded in 2003 and have become the largest expat team in the country. The Chiefs play at the Mokdong Ice Rink on Wednesday evenings and Sunday mornings. In addition to regular scrimmages, they play 30 | 10 Magazine November 2009

spring and fall inter-squad tournaments and have participated in international tournaments in Russia, Mongolia and Singapore. Contact Trevor McDonald at rmtchiefs@gmail.com or go to their website, chiefshockeykorea.com.

The Geckos Glaciers were the first expat team in Seoul and have a wellestablished team that plays in Anyang, south of Seoul. The Glaciers have won tournaments all over Asia and have hosted the Kimchi Pot International Hockey Tournament. They skate Sunday nights in Anyang. For information on the team, contact Andrew Monteith at ajmonteith@yahoo.com or go to geckoshockey.com.

For those living west of Seoul, the Incheon Iceholes are a convenient alternative. The Iceholes are an active club with games scheduled throughout Korea and regular Wednesday night skates at the Dong-nam “Sporpia” in Incheon.

Contact Dave Kim at davekim777@hotmail.com or go to their website: hockeynightinkorea.com.

The cities of Daejeon and Jeonju have joined forces to ice a group of skaters that play regular league games against each other and travel Korea playing other expat teams. Their website hockeyinkorea.com is full of game summaries and pictures. Contact Ken Vantour at 018-419-9916, or by email at kenvantour@hockeyinkorea.com.

The Daegu Thunderbirds are returning to the ice after a two year hiatus.

They have a core group of expats and are always looking for more skaters. They have a Facebook page which you can join or you can contact Aaron Laforest in Daegu at sweetmoose@hotmail.com.

Even on the southern coasts of Korea there is hockey to be found. The Busan Bellyachers are the local expat team with regular Sunday night ice times. With players sporting names like “The Casino Kid", “The Bull” and “Tylerro”, how could this not be a fun hockey team to join? Contact Scott Sanders at ss_rodya@hotmail.com.

This past Chusok holiday saw the 2nd Annual Hackers Cup hosted by the Seoul City Chiefs. Hoping to build on the success of last year’s tournament, six teams from Korea and Japan joined to vie for the Cup. In the finals, it was the squad from Tokyo dethroning last year’s champions, the Geckos Glaciers. It was a thrilling end to a successful tournament with all teams looking ahead to next year.

Finally if you’ve only got inline, you’re still okay. Canada Ball Hockey Korea (the CBHK) has The Big Rock Ball Hockey League (the BBHL) in the Seoul Sports Complex Inline Rink in Jamsil every Sunday from 12 pm – 8 pm.

Currently, there are 8 teams and over 120 members for the 2009 Fall Season. Sign up at www.cbhk.org.

So no matter where you are on the peninsula, there is always a game on whether you are watching or playing.

Hope to see you on the ice!

Child Monks at the 2006 Lotus Lantern Festival in Insa-dong.

Shot by Derek Winchester.

NIGHTLIFE

BAR

Bella Coola 63

J

ust outside the entrance to Bella Coola 63 is a quaint little sign that says, “New York 16,540km.” The real New York can’t be reached every day, but in the meantime Bella Coola 63 does just fine. Located on the 1st floor of the Astoria Hotel right by Chungmuro St. (line 3 and 4), Bella Coola 63 is a New York style Italian restaurant that doubles as a great night spot. The interior is small enough to be intimate, but a series of smaller rooms and thematically separate areas create the impression of a much larger space.

You would not be disappointed by Bella Coola’s fine pastas, pizzas, and steaks any time of the week, but the best time to go this fall is on Thursday and Friday evenings. With the Wine and the City special event, get bottomless wine from three vintages and unlimited delicious tapas including fried calamari and zesty salad for W15,000/W20,000 women/ men. If that’s not enough, a variety of entrees on the special menu for W12,000 each will keep you satisfied. The highlight of the night is the jazz group JFK (Jazz Future of Korea) performing from 7 – 9 pm each Thursday and Friday. Guitarist Ung Gang, a UC Berkeley graduate, leads the trio with cool jazz jams that complete the evening the way only live music can. Open 7:30 am – 10 pm. 02-2275-7473, bellacoola@naver.com

CLUB

DJ

Kurt

D

J and producer Kurt Jung is hoping to shake up the Korean DJ scene. Most DJs here, he says, don’t make their own music or even remix tracks before a show. Instead, Kurt looks to European DJs like Paul Van Dyk and Benny Benassi who record their own tracks instead of just relying on other people’s music. Kurt’s most recent show at Club Function in Itaewon is the latest step in a musical journey that began years ago at the Musician’s Institute in LA. Since returning to Korea, he has released his own album, produced tracks for pop acts including One Two, and performed at hot venues like Club Naked in Gangnam and Club Volume in Itaewon. His music, which he classifies as hard electro house/trance, is a mix of the pulsing beats familiar from most clubs and the alternative music that Kurt enjoys. Until now Korean have viewed DJs as the lowest note on the musical scale, but Kurt’s highly personal performance style sets a new standard for the Korean club scene.

LOUNGE

H

B1

idden away in the alley next to the Hamilton Hotel (Itaewon St., line 6), B1 is rowdy even on a Monday evening, with a DJ at the decks and people streaming in before midnight. B1 has gained a dedicated following of regulars since its 2006 opening, and these make up the club crowd that keeps B1 bumping on weekday nights. B1 gets by on fairly limited space, but a gorgeous burgundy side room and generous mirrors keep it from feeling cramped.

Compensating for the steel grays and blacks of the industrial décor are votive candles and lush white sofas placed to lighten up the mood. Grab a bottle of beer or a mojito, the crowd favorite, to match tasty tapas like the bacon wrap or salmon salad. Open every day 7 pm – 4 am on weekdays and 7 pm – 5:30 am on weekends. W10,000 cover after midnight on Friday and Saturday. b1itaewon@hotmail.com, 02-749-6164

Heaven

H

eaven is a place on earth, at least since it opened late this August. While Seoul has plenty of clubs, Heaven ups the ante with futuristic décor, high-tech toys, and dedication to a maintaining a crackling house beat as long as the dance floor’s full.

The cover charge—W30,000 for starters and W40,000 for after-hours privileges—may seem steep, but since when was it easy to get into heaven? Step into the maze-like interior and find your way to the suave cocktail bar conveniently set up right by the dance floor which runs down to the main stage. The celestial NEXO sound system along with woofers beneath each chair complete the

32 | 10 Magazine November 2009

sound, but the visual effects set the club apart. The main stage rotates in the middle of the show, confetti fills the air, and a huge screen descends into the crowd for a hologram show, the only one in Korea.

In addition to a set of dedicated resident DJs like Psytonic, Heaven also brings in artists from abroad like Afrika Bambaataa and Martin Solveig. With after club admission, you can move to the 2nd floor lounge at 4:30 AM for an after-hours party that keeps going as long as you do. Find it beneath Art Nouveau City Hotel, a five minute walk from ex. 5 of Seolleung St. (line 2). clubheaven.co.kr

Words and shots by Busan resident Peter DeMarco

A Guide to the Pleasure City’s Top 3 Party Routes

edonists beware: there's a new party playground in Korea and it's called Busan. The city's night scene has gone through a rebirth in recent years. Perhaps not on the same level as world party capitals like Rio or Madrid, nonetheless Busan is clearly one of the most happening cities in Korea.

About seven years ago, if you wanted to go out in Busan and spend the night in a Western-style bar that catered to foreigner's tastes, you only had two choices. And if you wanted to go to a club that played something other than K-Pop, there was only one choice in the whole city where you didn't have to reserve a table and buy an overpriced platter of old fruit or dried squid in order to get in.

Busan's international population has grown dramatically in recent years.

With around 3.6 million people, Busan is almost as large or larger than many other major world cities such as Los Angeles, Cape Town, Berlin, Sydney, and Athens.

The town hall's mandate to put a foreign English teacher in every public school has markedly increased the number of foreigners living in Busan. Add to that an influx of foreign

Growth Spurt

students attending local universities along with a new generation of hip young Koreans open to new influences and you've got quite a mix.

As a result, Western-style clubs, bars, and restaurants are everywhere. Most of the places foreigners tend to hang out are located in three distinct neighborhoods. Here are three basic party routes to help you explore each area. Keep in mind this is not a complete list and that there is much more to be discovered.

10 Magazine November 2009 | 35

The mass of restaurants, bars, and clubs clustered in the middle of four of Busan's largest universities might accurately be called “Little Hongdae” for its abundant nightlife and free-spirited college atmosphere. The area is called Kyeongseong, or 'Kyeongdae' as the locals say, and it's packed almost every night of the week.

But before you start exploring, take a 5 minute taxi ride to Thursday Party on Gwangali Beach just next door. Drink your Daquiri as you munch limitless amounts of unsettlingly addictive curry popcorn and super salty pretzel sticks. Once there, you can take in one of Busan's most beautiful sights, the rainbow lights of the Gwangan Bridge at night. A number of other bars line the beachfront should you decide to stay in the area longer.

Now on to Kyungdae. Before the night gets started, stop by the Indian cafe and bar Ayuta to sip on imported beer, wine, or a mango lassi. The smell of incense welcomes you as you enter this dimly lit Indian restaurant and bar which has one of the best “chill out” atmospheres around. Kick back on the floor pillows and take in eclectic Asian lounge beats – think Slumdog Millionaire meets Cafe Del Mar - while you smoke from a hooka. The Indian grub is average at best, but then that's not the reason to go there.

If darts is your thing, you can't miss Metro Dart Bar. There is a whole wall lined with electronic dart boards so you'll never have to wait long to play. Not into darts? Try Eva's, a small but stylish, laid-back bar which also serves up decent burgers. Although not a sports bar per say, Eva's is always showing sports games on the big screen from the NBA, NFL, MLB, to Premiere League soccer. Other popular foreigner-friendly favorites, all within a few-block radius, are Kino Eye and Ol' 55 with live music.

Are you ready to get your dance on yet? Just listen for the blaring dance music pouring out of a second floor open air terrace. If you see some guys ogling the scantily clad ladies walking the streets below, or girls posing on a railing for

The University Route: From Gwangan to Kyeongseong

on page 34: A number of international DJs play Club Elune regularly. on this page, top: One of Kyungsung's many hip restaurants. Bottom: OL' 55 on next page, top: Ghetto is a favorite with locals and foreigners alike. Bottom: Indian lounge Ayuta

passersby, you've found the local meat market aptly known as Ghetto. Not quite your style? Head over to one of Busan's oldest foreigner friendly clubs, Vinyl Underground, for an eclectic mix of electronic beats.

Getting there

Subway line 2, Kyungsung Univ. / Pukyoung Nat'l Univ.

Station

Late night snack

Chen Chen's is a ‘can't miss’ for the Chinese food lover located just across the street from the main gate of Pukyoung University. Open until 2 am, this Americanstyle Chinese bar and restaurant serves up the best Chinese food in town at the lowest prices. The owner and chef Mr. Chen worked in the kitchen of his brother's Chinese restaurant in San Francisco for almost 30 years. The Szechuan Chicken is like poultry candy – so delicious!

• Thursday Party (Line 1, Gwangan Station), 051-758-0822 • Ayuta, 016-794-7889 • Metro Dart Bar, 010-9323-5955 • Eva's, 051-628-5653 • Ghetto, 010-4588-4697 • Vinyl Underground, 051-628-0223 • Chen Chen's, 010-3553-0004

Kick the night off at one of Busan's least pretentious bars just a few blocks from the beach. Sunset Lounge is the type of place where you feel like you're hanging out in a college frat house without the over-the-top rowdiness. If you want to watch any type of sports, from ultimate fighting to football, this is your place. Throw in some great western food and a rooftop bar to boot and you’re bound to have a great time.

Next, put on your sombrero as you walk down the beach to Fuzzy Navel, a happening bar right behind the Seacloud Hotel that serves up a mean taco to go with your margarita. Then, cross the street to Miami 88, another popular watering hole.

Finally, it's on to the clubs. Busan has 3 big Westernstyle clubs located in the basement of the city's 5-star hotels in Haeundae. Murp II in the Novotel is probably the most fancy, with popular local DJs. A few doors down is the newest addtion, Club Elune in the Paradise Hotel. This club brings in international DJs (the same ones who spin up in Seoul frequently stop here before they move on). Finally, there's Club Maktum. Just look for the lit up phallic-symbol entrance to party the night away.

The Riviera Route: Haeundae

Getting there

Subway line 2, Haeundae Station

Late night snack

Wash down your yakitori with some sake at the Japanese bar Yaki Yaki in the lobby of the Palez De CZ building, across from Club Elune.

• Sunset Lounge, 051-742-2925 • Fuzzy Navel, 011-1757-6349 • Miami 88, 051-746-6488 • Murp II, 051-743-1234 • Club Elune, 010-5525-4055 • Club Maktum, 051-742-0770 38 | 10 Magazine November 2009

Top left and right: club MURP II at Busan Novotel Bottom clockwise: • club Maktum attracts a dedicated following of clubbing fans.

• The entrance to club Elune, • It's 1996 all over again as a dancer sports "SEXY" shades at Elune. • Party people pay homage to club Elune DJ. • Even the menus glow at club Elune.

Next page: A DJ at club Foxy spins the latest hip hop beats.

Last but not least is Seomyeon, the neighborhood right in the heart of the city, a favorite shopping and hangout place for Busan's youth. Start your night on the outskirts of Seomyeon at O'Brien's, probably Busan's most famous Irish Pub. Make sure you try the fish and chips. Then it's on to Guri Bar behind the Lotte Hotel for one of their signature mojitos or martinis.

If you're looking for something with a little more Korean flavor, take a stroll down Number 1 Street to see the show of neon lights. Bars and restaurants line the street. Just pick one, go in and mingle with the locals! If you can't find a bar you like, you can always head over to Thursday Party's Seomyeon location and meet the Busan tobagi or locals. You won't find as many foreigners here but you'll still get the feeling that you're in a bar from back home.

Finally, wrap it up at Club Foxy, but only if you like hip hop.

This popular bar and club takes up two floors. The crowd tends to be on the younger side and it's always packed.

The Mix-with-theLocals Route: Seomyeon

Our family has always enjoyed the important things in life: preparing food made with fresh seasonal ingredients and sharing simple meals with “abbondanza”. That’s Italian for the passion and poetry of life... We hope you feel this when you visit Sortino’s!

Grazie.

Getting there

Subway Line 1 or 2, Seomyeon Station

Late night snack

Try some twigim or Tteokbokki from one of Seomyeon's many street vendors.

• O'Brien's, 051-994-6541 (Line 2, Gaya Station) • Guri Bar, 010-6807-1149 • Thursday Party, 051-818-6621 • Club Foxy, 010-7648-1010 10 Magazine November 2009 | 39

Hamilton Hotel 1 2 Subway Itaewon St. 4 3 Fire St.

Itaewon Hotel

Cheil Communications

Weekdays Lunch 12 pm — 3 pm Dinner 5:30 pm — 1 am Kitchen last order 10:30pm Weekends 12 pm —1am Kitchen last order 10:30 pm

www.sortinos-seoul.com • 02-797-0488–9

NEWCOMER Directory (all English accessible contacts) Hotlines Emergency 119 Police 112 Directory Assistance 114 Medical Information Center 1339 (This is a 24-hour, nationwide hospital information service available in English, Korean, Chinese and Japanese) Foreigner Assistance/Translation BBB 24-hour Language Assistance 1588-5644 KTO Tourism 24-hr Infoline 1330 Korea Immigration immigration.go.kr, 1345 Korean Customs customs.go.kr, 1577-8577 Seoul Dasan (City Info) 02-120 Foreigner Assistance Organizations Busan Foundation for International Activities

bfia.or.kr, 1577-7716 Gwangju International Center gwangjuic.or.kr, 062-226-1050 Seoul Global Center global.seoul.go.kr, 02-1688-0120 Yeoksam Global Village (English) 02-3453-9038 Yeonnam Global Village (Chinese) 02-6406-8151 Sorae Global Village (French) 02-570-6009 Ichon Global Village (Japanese) 02-760-2018 Itaewon/Hannam Global Village (English) 02-796-2459

Radio

Medical Services

Arirang Radio Jeju City Seoguipo City

FM 88.7 FM 88.1

TBS eFM Busan Gwangju Seoul

FM 90.5 FM 98.7 FM 101.3

US Armed Forces Network Chinhae AM 1512 Daegu AM 1080 Dongducheon AM 1197

FM 88.5 FM 88.5 FM 88.3

Gunsan Gwangju Pohang

AM 1440

FM 88.5 FM 88.5

Pyongtaek Seoul Songtan

AM 1440 AM 1530 AM 1359

FM 88.3 FM 102.7 FM 88.5

Uijongbu Waegwan Wonju

AM 1161 AM 1080 AM 1440

FM 88.5 FM 88.5 FM 88.3

AM 1512

Korean Banks (The following are the only banks that offer English online banking and international debit cards.)

Korea Exchange Bank (KEB - 외환은행) keb.co.kr, 02-729-0114 SC First Bank (SC 제일은행) scfirstbank.com, 02-3702-3114

Transportation Major Foreign Banks Domestic Airlines Asiana Busan Air Jeju Air Korean Air

flyasiana.com, 1588-8000 flyairbusan.com, 1588-8009 jejuair.net, 1599-1500 koreanair.com, 1588-2001

Intercity Express Bus kobus.co.kr, 1588-6900 Korea Railroad Corp. korail.com, 1544-7788 Seoul Interactive Subway Map smrt.co.kr Taxi Mobeom Taxi Service Nationwide 1588-2255 (The nationwide “black taxi” number will put you in touch with a driver who speaks English, but these taxis cost about twice as much as taxis from the rest of the color spectrum.)

Greater Seoul Area International Taxi (English Speaking) 1644-2255 Jumbo Taxi Service (Even more expensive.)

02-888-2000 Otherwise call 1330 for regular taxis in your area.

Investment Assistance KOTRA Invest Korea

kotra.or.kr, 02-3460-7114 investkorea.org, 02-3460-7545

40 | 10 Magazine November 2009

American Express americanexpress.co.kr, 02-2000-8100 Australia & New Zealand Banking Group 02-3700-3100 China Construction Bank ccbseoul.com, 02-6730-1718 Citibank citibank.co.kr, 02-3455-2114 Deutsche Bank 02-724-4500 Bank of America 02-2202-4500 Bank of China

02-399-0368 BNP Paribas bnpparibas.co.kr, 02-317-1700 HSBC

02-311-0060 (Websites shown are specifically for the Korean branches of displayed foreign banks.)

Korea HIV/AIDS Prevention & Support Center khap.org, 02-927-4322 Ra Dental Clinic 02-569-8745 Hus Hu Dental & Skin Clinic 02-514-8013 Korea Counseling Psychological Association krcpa.or.kr, 02-498-8293 Jaseng Hospital of Oriental Medicine jaseng.net, 02-3218-2167

A 10 Tip Read 10 Magazine and pay attention!

The organizations in the “Foreigner Assistance/Translation” section on this page will answer almost any question you could come up with.

Accommodation 4-5 Star Hotels Busan Novotel Ambassador Seacloud

051-743-1234 051-933-1000

Seoul Astoria COEX InterContinental Courtyard Grand InterContinental JW Marriott

Millenium Hilton Renaissance Ritz-Carlton

02-2268-7111 02-3452-2500 02-2638-3000 02-555-5656 02-6282-6262 02-753-7788 02-555-0501 02-3451-8000

Daegu Novotel Ambassador

053-664-1101

Hostels Busan Arpina Zen Backpackers

051-740-3228 010-8722-1530

Daejeon Yuseong

042-822-9591

Daejeon Yuseong

042-822-9591

Gwangju Gwangju Youth Hostel

062-943-4378

Seoul Kim’s Guesthouse Olympic Parktel

02-337-9894 02-410-2114

Got an idea for info that should be added to our Newcomer Directory ?

Send it to comments@10magazine.asia