10 Magazine October 2009

Art • Theater • Concerts • Film • Community • Fitness • Dine & Drink • Nightlife

Korea awaits! • octoBER 2009 VOL. 2 NO. 1

15 Grad Programs Traveling Taiwan 10 Questions: Dr. John Linton Feature: The Biggest Festivals in October And Hundreds Events Happening All Over Korea!

Printed using 100% soy ink

octoBER 2009 vol.2 No.1 08 FROM THE EDITOR 10 LETTERS /

KOREA BY THE NUMBERS 12 ON OUR ANNIVERSARY

QUITE A YEAR 14 STYLE

TREND ALERT

FOR THE LOVE OF LUXURY 16 LIFESTYLE NEWS 20 A TASTE OF KOREA

TTEOKBOKKI 22 IN THE KITCHEN

W HOTEL’S CIARAN HICKEY 24 NIGHT LIFE

BARS, DJS AND HAPPY HOUR 28 10 QUESTIONS Dr. JOHN LINTON

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28

octoBER 2009 vol.2 No.1 30 SPECIAL FEATURE GETTING THAT GRAD DEGREE 34 ASIA TRAVEL

THE BEAUTIFUL ISLAND 38 THE 10 HOTEL & RESORT NEWS 42 FEATURE

The 10 Best Festivals in October 48 NEWCOMER DIRECTORY 49 CALENDAR 63 FOODIE FINDS

SMITH SEONSAENG 69 KOREAN DESTINATIION

INCHEON'S CHINATOWN 72 A HAPPY ENDING

CYCLING THE HAN

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57

CEO

Sang-tae Kim sangtaekim@10magazine.asia

Executive Editor

Jai-yoon Kim jaiyoonkim@10magazine.asia Stephen Revere sr@10magazine.asia Hanbit Koh hk@10magazine.asia

Managing Editor Assistant Editor Contributors

Aaron Allinson, Michael Berry, David Carruth, Frances Darwin, Samantha Dix-Hill, Dami Kang, Hyeon-seong Ryu, Kyoung-hee Lim, Jiheh Kim, Ryan M. McKevey, Joe McPherson, Charles Montgomery, John Scheid, Paul Schenk, Carmen Simmons, Grace Sun, Vincent Walker

General Manager

Kyoung-hee Lim kl@10magazine.asia Dami Kang dk@10magazine.asia Jiheh Kim jk@10magazine.asia

Coordinator

Hugh Lee hlee@10magazine.asia Ethan James ej@10magazine.asia

Art Director Photography

marketing@10magazine.asia calendar@10magazine.asia contribute@10magazine.asia comments@10magazine.asia subscribe@10magazine.asia

Marketing Inquiries Calendar Events Contribute Questions/Comments Subscriptions Cover Image

Our 1-year anniversary cover concept was supplied by Gina Hessburg while the cake itself was photographed by Ethan James and made by Cakery’s Mi Yea Kim (www.cakery.co.kr).

And it was absolutely delicious.

Please Recycle This Magazine 10 Magazine Vol.2 No.1 등록번호 서울 라 12065 ©10 Media Inc. Address 10-21 Nonhyeon-dong Gangnam-gu Seoul 135-010 서울시 강남구 논현동 10-21 Phone 02-3447-1610 www.10magazine.asia 10 Magazine is published monthly by 10 Media Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Printed by Kyohaksa Publishing. Co., Ltd. 6 |

10 Magazine October 2009

L'Avant-garde parisienne, Ouvrir le Siècle de la Lumières

The Great Exhibition of French Photography

Hangaram Design Museum, Seoul Art Center (No Exhibition on Sep. 28 & Oct. 26) Ticket Price: Adult 9,000/Youth 7,000/child 5,000 Child(4~7yrs.) 3,000 (Korean won) * 2,000 won discount for Gold/Blue (BC Platinum/Woori V Platinum) membership or Group over 20 persons Inquiry: 02-325-1077 Presented by: OROOM Gallery Managed by: Réunion des musées nationaux RMN 우리들창업투자(주), (주)지엔씨 미디어

Supported by: Centre Culturel Français

FROM THE EDITOR

A Big Thank You

T

his actually reads better if you read the article on page 10 first. Go there and come back please~ Welcome back. Now that you know about all of the blood, sweat and tears that have gone into creating this magazine over the last year, I would like to take some time to thank the people who have made it happen.

First of all, I want to thank the major backers of 10 Media, CEO Sang-tae Kim and Executive Editor Jai-yoon Kim, without whom 10 would not exist. I also want to thank my parents, John and Catherine Revere as well as my friends Brian Wildeboer, Ted Gray, Seok-jin Yoon, Joel Hurewitz, Aaron Allinson and Steve Kane for their tremendous support.

Next I would like to thank the talent that has graced the pages of 10 Magazine over the last year. Thank you to all of the the great writers, photographers, designers and other contributors who have done such an incredible job helping 10 grow into the magazine it is today.

I particularly want to thank the 10 Magazine staff. Thank you Dami Kang and Jiheh Kim, our terrific Coordinators. Thank you Art Director Hugh Lee for taking the design of 10 to another level since joining the team in March. And thank you to our General Manager Kyoung-hee Lim, who has been a passionate creator and supporter of 12 since the beginning and a friend since many years before. I’m proud of what we have accomplished, and I am excited by what is yet to come.

I want to thank our advertisers, many of whom I call friends as well. I’ve gotten to meet some wonderful people in this business, and most of them have been tremendously supportive. If you read our article on page 10, you’ll get a little bit of info on how hard it is to get advertisers, and I’m sincerely grateful to each and every company that is kind enough to support us with their advertising.

Thank you for helping 10 Magazine in our efforts to make life more enjoyable for English speakers here in Korea, and with your help we will continue to make life better here in “The Land of the Morning Calm” (or was that ‘Horn Symphony’?).

But more than anyone, I want to thank our subscribers and readers. It is your support, you buying and reading our magazine, you visiting our advertisers, and you enjoying all that Korea has to offer that allows us to keep making our magazine. I sincerely appreciate all of you and hope to hear from you often. (comments@10magazine.asia) Look for 10 to continue to grow and improve in the remaining months of 2009, and particularly throughout next year – 2010!

Korea Awaits!

Stephen Revere Managing Editor 8 |

10 Magazine October 2009

Formerly ColumbiaPlus Dental Clinic

LETTERS I wanted to take this opportunity to congratulate you on your September edition of 10 Magazine! I have noticed the improvements in the quality of the magazine over the last year. I especially enjoy the fantastic calendar you create. It's concise, utilizes an easy to read format, creative graphics and color, and segments events geographically, which I appreciate. I also really enjoyed this month's article, A Hikers Heaven.

Stephen Frawley, Seoul John Sheid nailed it with that article, didn’t he? A lot of people commented on how much they enjoyed that one, and we enjoyed as well. Check out his great information on traveling in Taiwan this month on page 30.

10

Dearest, It is my pleasure to contact you for a business venture which I intend to establish in your country. Though I have not met with you before but I believe one has to risk confiding in succeed sometimes in life. I am Mis Lenny jison, 20 years old from ivory coast. daughter of Mrs Alice jison the Secretary Wife and Personal Assistant to former ivory coast president. I have 8.5 million USD which was made by my mother before she was assasinated by unknown persons in oct 2006. My mother left this money in a suspence account in a bank here in my country.

Respectfully yours, Ms. Lenny Jisonul

Now in new location at Oakwood Hotel (connected to Coex Mall) from September 4th

Okay, so what’s the point of printing a con email from someone who sucks at spelling, capitalization and punctuation? It serves two purposes: 1. We didn’t get enough letters this month to fill up the darn page!

People accuse us of making up letters, which we never do. Every single letter featured is a real letter from real people, and that’s why we feature their full names and locations in Korea if they allow us to.

No one’s let us print their ID number yet.

2. It is also to point out that we print everything that gets sent to us.

Whether it’s praise or criticism, social commentary or a spam pfishing (okay, maybe not those), we’re going to print it. So tell us what’s on your mind! comments@10magazine.asia 10

Korea By The Numbers

Death Stats

35

The average number of people who successfully committed suicide daily in 2008.

17

The average number of people who died in car accidents each day in Korea in 2007.

9

The total number of people who had died from H1N1 as this magazine goes to print in all of 2009.

1% The percentage of normal influenza virus patients who die from the disease.*

0.05%

The percentage of H1N1 patients who have died from the disease.*

*Statistics according to Jeonnam Daily Sep 4th, 2009 (전남일보)

Tel:02-569-8745 www.radental.kr

10 | 10 Magazine October 2009

1 Year of 10

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istor ycally they didn’t name a newborn in Korea until it was 100 days old because of the very high likelihood that it wouldn’t make it. Then when the baby reached 100 days, they named the baby and gave it a small party which they still have today, called the ‘백일’ – 100-day. But the real celebrations were reserved for the baby surviving a whole year of life. To this day ‘돌잔치’ (1st birthday parties) are huge events, with Koreans inviting hundreds of guests to celebrate their baby’s first year of life.

In the case of magazines, the survival rate to 1 year old is astronomically lower than Korea’s infant mortality rate ever was, and I now understand why. What a year it has been. The ups and downs would make a manic depressive look like an ascetic.

For our first crisis, our license to print a magazine came out a week late, so we had to delay going to print. (Yes, you need a license before you print a magazine in Korea. You’re currently holding Seoul Ra #12065.) I thought I was going to go crazy. I called my friend in the magazine business, Pierre, for advice.

He was simple and to the point as usual. “First of all, stop with the conniption. The fact that you went to print a little late your first month won’t matter a bit this time next year.” He was right.

Then there was our former time the printers were missing a font and hence butchered a very important ad; we had to go out and collect all the issues we could and then reprint thousands of magazines. That one took the blood pressure up a few notches and reminded me that there are a million things that can go wrong if you’re not on top of them.

Then there’s the toughest part – negotiating advertising. We 12 | 10 Magazine October 2009

walk into meetings with potential advertisers and it’s one of the first questions we get. “How many articles are you going to write about us?” Then we explain the ‘advertorial’ concept.

Nope. They don’t want an ‘advertorial’, they just want the article. Then I have to explain that in that case it has to be eventrelated, and of interest to our readers, and we may talk about similar events or services which aren’t advertising with us; typically this is met with stares of shock and revulsion.

And then there’s trying to get the magazine itself together.

I sit across from our talented Coordinator, Dami Kang, as she calls event hosts, looking for info and photography. It almost always goes like this (translation from the Korean): “Hi. I’m calling from 10 Magazine, an English monthly event info magazine for foreigners and gyopo in Korea. Can we have some pictures of your event?”

(Pause.)

“No, it won’t cost you any money. We’re just going to list the event to let foreigners know what’s happening so they can join in if they would like to.”

(Pause.)

“Yes, we can send you a copy of the magazine, and, no, there won’t be an invoice charging you for the write up.”

What other businesses are doing I don’t know but there are really some suspicious event hosts out there.

Suffice it to say; running a magazine is a tough business. To us it’s a comprehensive 80 pages + cover, but for everyone who contributes anything - from an event to an article to an ad - their contribution is all that matters, and if you mess it up you’re in trouble. It takes a lot of work and stress to get our 80 pages + cover together every month, and now we begin our second year of doing it – and I’m more excited than ever. It gets easier from here on out, right?

Stephen Revere, Managing Editor

DIS 10 CO % UN T Korean Musical

English Reservations koreamiso.com

2009년1월 - 12월 오후8시 8pm Jan.-Dec. 2009 Info. 02-751-1500 www.chongdong.com

No performance on Monday

STYLE

TREND ALERT Words and shots by Grace Sun

A strange phenomenon exists here in Korea – every second female is tottering around in platform heels sporting a Louis Vuitton or Chanel bag. Can they really afford it, you ask? Sure, many of the affluent Apgujeong Ajumas can – but for the rest of us that leaves only the fake bag dealers scattered along the streets in the Dongdaemun & Myeongdong areas, right? WRONG! Leave your Lotte and Shinsegae cards at home, ladies – Seoul offers a plethora of other options to quench your designer fetish.

Second-Hand Bag Stores

Stocking anything from this season’s it bags to decade-old vintage styles, these little treasure houses offer used and new designer bags, accessories, clothing and shoes at prices that won't send you into cardiac arrest.

10 asked Jay Hong from Yeouido’s J-Lux Store why people would sell their brand new bags: “Women often buy something in the department store and then later regret their purchase.

Some celebrities receive these gifts and sell them for cash instead, while other people buy on credit and then pawn off their bags just so they can get some cash. In Korea, secondhand purchases are very common, which explains why every department store has a second-hand shop across the road.”

And indeed this is true. Take a walk around the area across from the Galleria Department Store in Apgujeong, and you will find enough of these shops to tickle your bag fancy.

Jay buys at around 50% of the RRP, depending on the quality and brand of your item, or you can choose to leave your item at the shop until it sells, when she will take 15% of the sale price. The most popular brands

W3,600,000 at J-Lux Brand New 14 | 10 Magazine October 2009

are Chanel and LV, as they never go on sale in the department stores or at the outlets. What a great way to sell or trade in your old designer bags for something new!

Designer Outlet Stores

Online Shops

Feelway – a Korean ebay for designer products. Get a Korean friend to help you navigate through the site and another trusty friend to watch your credit card limit! www.feelway.com Gugus – the largest chain of second hand shops in Korea. Check out their items and their online store. www.gugus.co.kr

10’s Second Hand Store Picks J-Lux

A joint venture by Shinsegae and the Chelsea Premium Outlet Group in the US, check out Yeoju Premium Outlets, located 60km from Seoul and easily accessible by car or bus from the East Seoul or Express Bus Terminals.

Open 10am-8pm. English website and directions: www.premiumoutlets.co.kr/eng For those in Busan, visit the Lotte Premium Outlets in Gimhae. Shuttle bus leaves from Busan Lotte Hotel every hour. Open 11am-9pm. English website: http://gimhae.lotteoutlets.com/English

W2,820,000 at Paul's Doing

W1,200,000 at J-Lux

The owner Jay speaks perfect English, so you will have no problems communicating.

Located on Level 1 of the Lotte Castle Empire building in Yeouido. Walk straight from Exit 6 and you will see it across the road, next to Kraze Burger. j-lux.co.kr, 02-782-6860 Paul’s Doing A little store on the street parallel to Apgujeong’s Rodeo Street. Walk down a couple of blocks past M.A.C and Banana Republic and you will see it on a corner to your right. paulsdoing.com, 02-3442-2279

Edited by Hanbit Koh and Kyounghee Lim

October

Energizer Night Race 2009 with Adidas Battery manufacturer Energizer and Adidas sponsored the first global night race in 2007, and it keeps going… and going… and going. It began in Argentina, made a lap around South Africa, and moves to the homestretch in Korea this year. On Saturday, October 24th at 7 pm, thousands of runners will strap on a headlamp and set off on the first night race in Korea and the first Energizer race in Asia. Taking place at Seoul Grand Park in Gwacheon, the race includes a 5k course for W20,000 and a 10k course for W30,000. Hurry to register at the website for one of the 6,000 spots available. All contestants in the race receive an Energizer 4 LED head lamp and a special Adidas T-shirt designed for the run. energizer-nightrace.co.kr

Cooking Classes at the Institute of Korean Royal Cuisine

Want to learn more about the real taste and culture of Korean cuisine? With more than thirty years of experience, the Institute of Korean Royal Cuisine has taken the lead in introducing Korean traditional food culture to foreigners. Now, the institute is offering Korean cooking classes for those who’ve always been interested in Korean cuisine but just haven’t known how to begin. Classes are held in English at 10 am on October 10th, 17th, and 24th and November 14th, 21st, and 28th. Contact Mr. Wonil Lee for more details. food.co.kr, 010-5612-7912

Start with Art at Kid’s Gallery Kids’ Gallery, established in 1996 with locations in China, Thailand, Japan, and Malaysia, opened a new branch this April in Hannam-dong, Seoul. Based on the principle that early education in the arts encourages creativity and art appreciation, Kids’ Gallery offers a young learners program for toddlers from 16 months, after school and weekend courses for children aged 3 to 14, and a fine arts program for high school students and adults. All classes are taught in English by the foreign staff. kidsgallery.com, 02-797-8002

Chuseok Discounts for Chongdong Theater’s Miso What better time could there be to see the exquisitely beautiful non-verbal performance Miso than Chuseok? Performed at Chongdong Theater near ex. 1 of City Hall St. (line 1 and 2), Miso showcases traditional Korean customs, music, attire and dance. Visitors to the show this Chuseok (October 2nd – 4th) are offered some great bargains. In addition to the Chuseok rice cake set that everyone gets, families of three or more receive 50% off and grandparents are admitted free, as are foreign workers who bring along Korean family members (limited to two per family with proof of kinship). Finally, in honor of the holiday, all hanbok wearers can take advantage of 50% off. www.koreamiso.com, ticket@chongdong.com 16 | 10 Magazine October 2009

Masters of Food and Wine at the Park Hyatt Seoul If summer is beer season, autumn is the time for wine.

Previously held at Park Hyatt hotels in the US, France and other countries, the Park Hyatt Seoul’s Masters of Food and Wine program brings Michelin star chefs and other chefs from countries around the world to provide guests with gourmet cuisine and premium wines.

At this year’s event, the chefs of honor are Daniel Chambon, master of foie gras cuisine, Ulf Braunert, specializing in Mediterranean cuisine, and Stefano Di Salvo, head chef at the Park Hyatt Seoul and expert in European cuisine, along with Hui-seok Seo, the sommelier at the Hyatt Regency Incheon. From October 29th through November 8th, Michelin Star Chef Braunert will prepare lunch and dinner, along with a weekend special of brunch and dessert table. Guests at the “Welcome Cocktail Reception” and “Night of the Gourmand” can try food by all of the chefs along with a wine sampler. The wine seminar offers you a chance to hear Huiseok Seo’s detailed explanation of wines and taste a few yourself.

If you have ambitions of reproducing these delicious dishes in your own kitchen, take a look at the cooking classes based around foie gras, Asian, or Mediterranean cuisine prepared for those who want to learn the kitchen tricks of Michelin chefs. Only ten per class, so sign up early. 02-2016-1234

Guest Lecturers at the JAI Center for Yoga & Health

The JAI Center, with its convenient location near Apgujeong St. (line 3), welcomes two outstanding speakers during October and November. From October 30th through November 1st, Anandagiriji will be visiting from Oneness University in India for the “Living in Oneness” conference. The seminar will help you take a huge step toward increased well-being, peace, and joy. From November 14th - 18th, Rahasya, a guest teacher from Germany/Australia, will lead “The Orange Ray” workshop using meditation and other techniques to awaken the second chakra. Lectures taught in English with Korean interpretation. www.jaicenter.co.kr 18 | 10 Magazine October 2009

A TASTE OF KOREA

Tteokbokki (떡볶이) Words by Paul Schenk Director of Food and Beverage InterContinental Hotels Seoul

T

half to two centimeters. The spicy red pepper paste (gochujang) teok is a traditional festive rice cake used in many special Tteokbokki of today was developed in the 1950's when a creative ceremonies and for holidays like the Lunar New Year, woman decided to add gochujang, the upcoming Korean sugar and corn starch syrup. It Thanksgiving (Chuseok), a child’s has a very hot and sweet flavor at 1st birthday party and wedding the same time. It quickly caught celebrations, 60th birthdays and on and became very popular memorial services. especially in the Shindang-dong Besides its traditional usage area (see below). at these events, you cannot go There are of course many anywhere in Korea without variations to the recipe but the seeing it in its most popular base ingredients are anchovy form, ‘Tteokbokki’, as it is one stock, rice cake (tteok), of Koreans’ most beloved dishes, gochujang, onion, spring particularly amongst young onion, cabbage, garlic and fish ladies. Its current spicy red sauce cake (also known as odeng). form is a ubiquitous Korean street Preparation is easy, as you vendor food, but it was not always simply bring to the boil at the this way. Traditional Tteokbokki proper timing and simmer. was not red at all, as during the I have made this on a number Chuson dynasty they served of occasions and being the typical Gungjoong (Royal) Tteokbokki to chef I also have my take on it. I the King as a snack. This style is like to add some fried bacon and one of my favorites as it is easy to when it is all simmering and the eat and a little sweet. sauce is just about to thicken add Tteokbokki is made from a touch of red wine, which gives it “Garae-tteok”, white in colour a unique flavor. and cylindrical. Thickness varies Get into K-Food. but usually is about one and Photo image courtesy of BBQ Olive Tteokbokki, Genesis

Tteokbokki Street in Shindang-dong

The undisputed champion of tteokbokki in Korea is Shindang-dong in Northeastern Seoul. Although we’d love to recommend another area somewhere in Korea, there are no neighborhoods that compare as far as tteokboki goes anywhere else in Korea. And don’t expect your typical ‘tteok’ with a spicy red sauce and a little veggies and odeng. Oh, no, here ‘tteok becomes a pasta-style ingredient, and dishes will be chocked full of goodies like 20 | 10 Magazine October 2009

seafood, dumplings (mandu), eggs, glass noodles and/or ramen noodles, and even beef in the form of traditional Korean bulgogi. And there isn’t just one to order, but a variety of flavors. This is a great day trip with a big group of friends, as you can order a couple of different kinds and try them all – but remember, this stuff can be spicy! When in doubt, point to this phrase – “맵지 않게 해주세요!” (Please don't make it spicy.)

According to the Korean blogs, the most famous restaurant here is Manbokrim Grandma’s Tteokbokki, and we’ll give you the site, but sadly, it is written only in Korean. www.신당동마복림할머니집.com c

i

and ODENG

]

If you take a closer look at that piping hot plate of tteokbokki in front of you, you may see some slices of beige stuff that vaguely resemble waterlogged crackers.

It’s actually a fish cake dish called odeng (like kamaboko, if you’re familiar with Japanese cuisine), and whether it’s in

the tteokbokki or in the bowl next to it, it’s a match made in culinary heaven.

Stop in any respectable pojangmacha (Korean street-side stall) and you’ll see odeng steaming on wooden skewers in savory broth. You won’t go wrong adding some plain, homey odeng to your order of sweet and spicy tteokbokki to warm up on a chilly evening.

IN THE KITCHEN

Chef Ciaran Hickey

Words by Joe McPhereson, Shots by Ethan James

C

hef Ciaran Hickey of the restaurant Kitchen at the W Seoul Walker Hill has not only added his worldly influences to the Seoul dining scene but has also become one of the accidental prophets of Korean cuisine.

Hailing from Dublin, Ireland, Chef Hickey started his culinary education during the early ‘80s in his homeland before heading to Switzerland, which started his lifelong globetrotting. He has since worked for high end hotels and restaurants in New York, London, Istanbul and the

West Indies. The culinary scene in Istanbul particularly inspired him, and he will regale you with tales of celebrities behaving badly from his time in the West Indies.

“I have learned a lot more in the past two years,” admits Chef Hickey. At Kitchen, he now has the time, money and freedom to play with the food and explore new directions in his cuisine. One direction has been to incorporate Korean ingredients and traditions in the international fine dining repertoire. The most recent event was this past summer’s Contemporary

Chef Hickey’s Alaskan King Crab Cakes Ingredients

• 500 g of king crab meat • 1 teaspoon fresh ginger, grated • 1 teaspoon lemon grass, grated • 2 tablespoons sweet chili sauce • 2 green onions

• 2 tablespoons olive oil • 2 cups bread crumbs • 2 eggs, beaten • 2 oz. (~55 g) flour • ¼ cup oil for cooking

Mix the olive oil, ginger, lemon grass, sweet chili sauce and green onions with the crab. Make into 3-oz cakes and allow to set in the fridge for 1 hour. Lightly flour the cakes, dip in the beaten eggs then in the breadcrumbs. Heat the oil to 350 degrees in a shallow sauté pan then add the crab cakes and cook for approximately 4 minutes on medium heat or until breadcrumbs become golden brown. Turn over and repeat. Drain on paper towels. Serve with avocado or tomato salsa.

22 | 10 Magazine October 2009

Korean Menu, which featured gochujang marinated black cod, slow-cooked short ribs and a playful interpretation of ‘Samgyetang’, where instead of a whole chicken, a chicken breast roulade stuffed with Korean dates and nuts bathed in a light, slightly medicinal broth with a dollop of black garlic on the side.

Particularly, Chef Hickey is a fan of Korean street food and has wanted to upgrade it for an international audience. He hinted at some future experiments with mandu and kimbap, something that has recently become his comfort food of choice.

He has also been impressed with his staff’s dedication to the culinary arts in and out of the kitchen. While preparing for the Spanish-themed menu event, Jamón, Jamón (inspired

by Penelope Cruz’s debut film), the idea came to include elements of the new Spanish school of molecular gastronomy, pioneered by Ferran Adrià. Chef Hickey went online to track down the special ingredients and chemicals to pull this off, which were hard to find and expensive.

Then he found that one of his sous chefs already had a whole stash of them because he enjoyed experimenting with molecular gastronomy in his spare time.

Chef Hickey’s eyes light up at

the new possibilities in his kitchen after making surprising dishes like the “elliptical olive,” an Adrià invention of an all-liquid “olive” that has created its own skin, which explodes in the mouth. After verbally contemplating the new directions he can go, Chef Hickey gives a mischievous grin. There’s no telling what will come next from his creative and well-traveled brain.

NIGHTLIFE Words by Hanbit Koh

BAR Namuyoil

LOUNGE Noxa

T

W

ay to the north of club-happy Gangnam is the theater kid hangout called Daehangno. Wind through the alleys on the sleepy side of the main stretch and you’ll come to a quaint sign on an unassuming building reading 나무요일 (Namuyoil, meaning “tree day”). No misspelled English words, no garish colors, and nary a hint that you’re about to enter a truly unique café in a land of franchises and copycat establishments.

The interior alone is reason enough to come. Designed by proletariat architect Un-gi Cha (also the guy behind the eclectic masterpiece of Jazz Story in Samcheongdong), the inside of Namuyoil mimics a garden in which table tops are made of rough-hewn wooden planks, trunks of persimmon trees join floor and ceiling, and guests are the flowers in bloom.

Owner Uk Lee hasn’t renovated the place since it opened in 1997—and says he never will.

Namuyoil works fine as a bar with its intimate candle-lit atmosphere ideal for a first date or the eve of a revolution, but Lee’s first love is café culture. The old ideal of the café as a place to meet interesting people over excellent drinks is reborn here. From Canadian troubadours to Korean novelists to soft-spoken Japanese, the guests here are people you always wanted to meet. The drinks, too, are superb, from freshly roasted coffee to the apple-topped sangria. Speaking of apples, all guests get a free one with their drink order along with knife to peel it, just one example of the spectacular service here. (Note that the beers are self-serve from the fridge.)

Five minutes from exit 4 of Hyehwa St. (line 4). 02-747-9807

he name probably gives it away, but Noxa lies at the bottom of the long slope running down from ex. 2 of Noksapyeong St. (line 6). You might be excused for thinking it an odd choice of locations for a classy establishment, with the army base across the street and the fish market a few alleys back, but that’s just where Noxa’s charm lies. Designed in slick grays and blacks with tables poised on the veranda to make the most of the cool October nights, Noxa offers a haven of style and luxury just a few feet from the busy sidewalk.

Co-owners Nev Willert and Kim Yeong-su have been trying to turn Noxa into the top port of call in the neighborhood for the year since it opened, offering an up-market alternative to the other bars in the area.

Noxa is both restaurant and lounge, a dual identity that keeps the tables occupied for most of its business hours. From noon to 10:30 pm, the Italian-trained chef produces pasta masterpieces in the kitchen, including the fantastic puttanesca, to a background of soft jazz and rock.

Like some strange Jekyll and Hyde, everything changes after that. The kitchen closes down except for snacks, the lights dim and the music shifts up a gear or two as guests move from wine toward more edgy drinks including draft beer, frozen margaritas, and Nev’s wickedly strong Long Island Iced Tea. The upcoming months will see Noxa redefining its identity even further as DJs stop in on Friday and Saturday nights to keep the lounge grooving late into the night. noxalounge@naver.com, 02-790-0776

MEET THE DJ Dr. Lektroluv

T

he mysteriously green Dr. Lektroluv comes down to Club M2 in Hongdae from the Electric Planet to cure us with his hot and dirty electro cuts. He’s released no less than ten mixcompilations since 2002 for all his patients who “luv elektro.”

The last three releases from our green friend have been live CDs, recorded at some of Europe’s best festivals, such as the Dutch Extrema Outdoor Festival and Belgium’s biggest festivals Rock Werchter and Pukkelpop. The doctor also has been resident at the famous Body to Body parties where he received guests such as I-F, Miss Kittin, Tiga, Ellen Allien, Tiefschwarz, Ladytron, and others.

After his first successful appearance in Korea last June, he was requested to land again, this time in Busan as well as Seoul. On his second visit to Korea, Dr. Lektroluv will stick to what he knows best: selecting the cream of the crop from today’s electro scene and blending these tracks with hard to find classics to maintaining a distinct dance floor-friendly flow. Not choosing obvious tracks coming out of the electro-clash zone, the good doctor selects them more on a build-to-last scale. See the green DJ in action this Halloween.

24 | 10 Magazine October 2009

NIGHTLIFE Words by Carmen Simmons & Vincent Walker

Happy Hour Bliss

Bar Rouge

The Sortino Family Welcomes You to Korea's First Italian Family-owned Cafe, Deli, Pastry Shop and Wine Bar!

02-790-5907

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eeking a place where you can transform the hustle and bustle of Seoul into a tranquil relaxing evening? Decorated in black and red with flickering candle accents, The JW Marriott’s Bar Rouge next to the Gangnam Express Bus Terminal is the place to be for terrific ambiance, great food and great entertainment – particularly during Happy Hour! Tuesday-Saturday 2 for 1 Happy Hour specials 6 pm to 8 pm are guaranteed, but noteworthy specials on other days of the week are also not to be missed. Of particular interest are Thursdays, when you can partake in unlimited white, red and sparkling wine refills and repeated trips to the buffet for only W50,000++ for men and only W25,000++ for ladies. Perhaps for this reason on the night we visited it was filled mostly with the fairer sex.

The buffet choices are numerous, both hot and cold. We sampled the pasta of the day, smoked salmon with horseradish cream and caper on cereal baguette, quiche Lorraine, fried salmon fingers and fruit.

There were also sushi and salad selections.

Even though the food was buffet style, the presentation made it visually appealing and everything we tasted was delicious.

Other unlimited drink special nights include “Tuesday Beer & Whiskey Night” and “Wednesday Cocktail Night” both for only W19,000++.

Weekends the fun goes much later on Friday, when ladies sitting at the bar (or ladies at a table who order a snack platter) get free beer and sparkling wine from 6 pm all the way up ‘till 2 am.

Every night John Warner will be there playing guitar singing both original material and providing an interesting twist to pop favorites. While we were there he played Sting, The Beatles, Stevie Wonder and much more. His voice was smooth and he flowed effortlessly between high and low notes. The guy was really good.

He encouraged the crowd to join in and took a particular liking to group of ladies in the corner who really enjoyed themselves. This kind of live music is a rare treat here in Korea, and will only be with us until the end of November, so catch it while you can. jwmarriott, 02-6282-6763 26 | 10 Magazine October 2009

Dr. John Linton, MD Korea Native and Yonsei International Healthcare Center (IHC) Doctor Interview by Grace Sun, Shots by Ethan James

10 Questions 1. Can you tell me a little about your family and their history in Korea?

My great-grandfather, Eugene Bell, was a Presbyterian missionary who came to Korea in 1895. My grandfather, William Linton, also served in Korea from 1912 and my father Hugh Linton, served in Korea from 1954. My mother also served in Korea for 40 years as the director of the Soonchun Christian Tuberculosis Rehabilitation Center.

My wife and I met when we were both studying in college, and we have two daughters – 21 and 19 - and a 9-year-old son. They are beautiful Amerasian kids.

2. What was it like growing up in Korea in the 60s?

I was born in Jeonju and grew up in Suncheon. I do not see myself as someone from a wealthy family coming to help the “poor natives”, but in fact I see myself as a product of Korea. The old people in the village taught me very strong values and how to be a good human being. It was a wonderful childhood growing up in Korea. My biggest break was being allowed to study at Yonsei University, after which I went to New York and then came back here to do family medicine. Koreans have given me the opportunity to go to school here and become a doctor. I am thankful for that, and I have tried to give some of that back.

3. What are the standout things you have achieved here that make you proud?

My father was killed in a tragic car accident in 1984 and after that I designed five models of ambulances, of which there are now 4000 on the street. All the square ambulances you see on the street are 100% my design, and I believe it was a pretty significant breakthrough. The other thing would be the medical work my brother and I did under the Eugene Bell foundation in North Korea. We treated 300,000 patients in 6 years and raised US $35 mil..

4. Do you consider yourself a foreigner or a Korean?

My heart is in Jeonju, so I think of myself as more of a Jeonju person and not really Korean. I wrote a book called “My Hometown is in Jeollado, My Soul is in Korea”. Who am I? As a child, I never looked in the mirror, I just saw myself as a kid in the village. At one point in my life I realized the advantages of Asian culture over Western culture and I made a choice to be Asian. I have great respect for the collectivism of Asian culture. We’re very communal, and that is something I strongly believe in.

5. What should foreigners be careful of when seeking medical care here in Korea?

The number one problem with all patients, local and foreigner alike, is communication. Korean doctors see five to ten times the number of patients that Western doctors see, and it can often get very busy and crowded. Koreans put up with this lack of communication and explanation, but foreigners are much more used to personalized care.

They can be very inquisitive, but Korean doctors are too busy to explain. I think there is a big difference in expectations - the concept of medicine to Westerners is that it is a necessary evil, a toxin. But for Asians, it is a mechanism for correcting the imbalances in your body – like ying and yang. The doctor is the guru, and his decisions are not questioned. While a Westerner will thank me for not giving him any medicine, a Korean will invariably ask for an injection! The advice I would give to foreigners that are seeking help is to write everything down – Korean doctors read

much better than they speak. At the end of the day, the Korean and Western consumer want the same thing: professionalism and quality time.

6. What is your personal stance on the medical system here in Korea?

Korean doctors are heroic – the amount of patients they see – they’re superhuman. This system works because they work so hard in order to make ends meet under national insurance.

There is a huge need, not for revolution, but for reform. Korea needs private insurance, and public and private should come together seamlessly like in the Netherlands or Germany.

7. You have the title of not only doctor, but mentor and trusted cultural guide. Can you tell me a little about your theories and beliefs?

One of my theories is that central heating has played a big part in fracturing today’s families. Here is why - I grew up in a time when there was no central heating, and this was true in many parts of the US too. Back then, everyone gathered around the kitchen stove and all education happened there. It forced people to interact and have very healthy mental hygiene. In Korea, it was the hot floor that you would congregate around. This was the place where older people would teach values and provide their wisdom to the younger people. Nowadays everyone has their own individual television, their own computer and the kids just stay in their room. That causes a generation of very selfish kids.

8. How is IHC different from other international clinics in Korea?

We are an all-service clinic, and a lot of people who come here need urgent care, but I am also trained as a family practitioner so we also manage and prevent disease.

We have four full-time English speaking doctors, and most importantly we have a 24-hour medical doctor and administrator on-call. The difference between ours and other international clinics is that I am the only Western foreigner licensed to practice medicine in Korea and I am part of the institution. Other doctors are contracted, and are not available after hours so there is very little follow through. I am committed to patients and actively partake in their treatment, whether they are here in the clinic or in the emergency room.

9. How has IHC progressed and improved over the years?

When I returned to Korea in 1991 the International Healthcare Centre was in a very dilapidated state with only 1 or 2 patients coming every other day. Now we have over 80 patients a day, and last year we saw 30,000 foreigners. We are also the only JCI-accredited (Joint Commission International) hospital in Korea, and the biggest in the world, which means we have been prepared for many presidential visits.

10. What do you see for Korea’s medical field in the future?

I believe the future is in medical tourism, and in fact all my efforts right now are focused on promoting Korea as a place for treatment abroad. I have been working very closely with the Ministry For Health, Welfare and Family Affairs to promote the amazing surgeons Korea has to offer. Their manual dexterity is the best in the world, even among their own fellow peers in Asia – Koreans are the only Asian population that uses metal chopsticks. We have 5 Da Vinci robots, and in fact we are the leaders in Asia. Presently, the cost in Korea is more expensive than Bangkok, but cheaper than Singapore and Hong Kong, and about a third to a fifth of the cost in the US. 10 Magazine October 2009 | 29

SPECIAL FEATURE

Korea has plenty of great graduate schools for you to help you keep up those studies.

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Words by Aaron Allinson, Graduate of Yonsei University’s GSIS

o make the most of our time spent abroad, going back to school has become increasingly popular as all-English graduate programs expand here in Korea.

For expats a business degree from a recognized university provides a way to beef up resumes before looking for a job back home and/ or a springboard to other Asian destinations. There are now 6 MBA programs offered completely in English that are accredited by the Association to Advance Collegiate Schools of Business and - just as importantly - available to foreigners living here.

Here are some basic tips before you apply: 1. Your choice of school will depend on scheduling, location and most importantly your area of study. Each program has its strengths and weaknesses and prospective students need to do their homework.

2. Many of the programs are flexible in their enrolment schedules, so it’s important to contact the schools as soon as you decide.

3. There are plenty of scholarships available for new students, so again, doing your homework and asking questions could pay off in actual cash savings.

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KAIST

AACSB-Accredited MBA Programs Korea Advanced Institute of Science and Technology (KAIST) For those living in Daejeon, KAIST offers an attractive alternative to weekend classes in Seoul with a full time Finance MBA. The two-year program offers specialty courses leading to a career in financial institutions, banking or economics. KAIST also offers a one-year MBA program specializing in Information and Media, positioning students for a career in the IT and telecommunication fields. With the program starting in early February, the application deadline is October 31st. Information on specific courses and application documents can be found on the KAIST website business.kaist.ac.kr/eng.

Korea University Leading the way in English business education, Korea University has several programs to meet your academic needs. The Global MBA is a one-year program beginning in late August aimed at those with previous industry experience. The program has a core group of business disciplines and a wide range of electives.

Online application deadlines are the end of October. For more information on the program, visit biz2.korea.ac.kr and look for the Global MBA program link.

KU also offers two- year MBA programs including a full time Korea MBA, Masters of Investment Business Administration and the S3 Asia MBA, which is offered in conjunction with Fudan University in China and the National University of Singapore.

Each of these programs has specific requirements for admission.

Go to s3-asiamba.com for information on the S3 program.

Sejong-Syracuse University

Sejong University in Eastern Seoul offers a business degree in conjunction with Syracuse University. The SSMBA is a 2-year program with opportunities to join the program both before the September and the March semesters.

Each semester consists of two 8-week courses two evenings a week and Saturdays, ideal for those with hectic work schedules. The program attracts students from over 25 countries and is taught by both Sejong and Syracuse professors. The key benefit of the program is its cost, which is significantly lower than other programs. There is an active student association which organizes a lecture series and special events. For more information contact Al Giacchini at a_giacchini@hotmail.com or visit sejong.ac.kr/eng/index.html.

Sejong University

Seoul National University Seoul National University offers a one year Global MBA through its Graduate School of Business. The semester starts in mid-August, so registration should be planned for the previous June. The program targets business professionals with 2+ years of experience, focuses on traditional business disciplines and offers a wide range of optional courses. The application deadline for the program is early May. You can also contact them at http://gsb.snu.ac.kr/Eng/_ academics/global_mba.aspx.

Sungkyunkwan University Established as a venture with Samsung, the Sungkyunkwan Business Program has grown into one of the most respected programs in Korea. Sungkyunkwan is centrally located in Seoul in Daehangro, just north of Jongno. The SKK Global Business Program (GSB) offers an Executive MBA in conjunction with the Kelly School of Business at Indiana University. A one year full-time Global MBA and Finance MBA program are offered and run from August to the following December. The application deadline for the Global and Finance MBA programs is November 7th.

Contact them at gsb.skku.edu/2008_ home/index.htm.

Non-accredited MBA Program Solbridge Also in Daejeon, the Solbridge International School of Business was established through Woosung University and attracts a large international student body. Solbridge offers full 4-year undergraduate and 2-year graduate business programs in English.

Specialty areas include financial management, business strategy, marketing, information technology and entrepreneurship. Applications for the March semester are due December 31st of this year. www.solbridge.ac.kr.

Yonsei University

Yonsei University in Shinchon also offers a Global MBA program through the Yonsei Business School. Both daytime and weekend MBA classes are offered in English. The daytime program takes one year to complete with most of the courses offered in the spring and fall. The weekend MBA offers the same courses but takes a few more months to finish. The application period ends October 22nd for the spring semester.

Contact the staff online at http://gsb.yonsei.ac.kr/gsb.

Yonsei University 10 Magazine October 2009 | 31

SPECIAL FEATURE

Graduate School of International Studies (GSIS) Programs Ajou University in Suwon has a similar focus in its academic programs.

International trade, relations, development and business studies are all available as well as NGO and Korean Studies. The 1st round application deadline is November 30th with a 2nd round also available.

Check out the website at gsis.ajou.ac.kr.

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here are several GSIS programs in Seoul that offer business studies, economic development and financial disciplines. These programs are usually part of a wider range of specialties including trade, international relations, and area studies. Many of the universities also offer scholarship opportunities and exposure to an international student community.

Sogang University

Ehwa Woman’s University offers Masters, PhD programs and non-degree programs in international trade and investment and international business, as well as a joint degree program with George Washington University in the US. Visit the site at gsis.ewha.ac.kr. The deadline for fall 2010 admission is the first week of June.

Joongang University located in Hukseok-dong offers an International Studies Program that includes Global Business and Finance (GB&F) and Global Affairs and Trade (GA&T) study tracks.

The application period for the spring semester extends into late November. Contact the university by email at gsis@cau.ac.kr or go to gsis. cau.ac.kr/academics/programs01. htm.

Joongang University

Korea University’s GSIS offers a two-year Masters degree and a one-year certificate program with a full complement of seminars, workshops and networking events. Students can gain a specialization in international commerce, e-commerce and finance. The application deadline for non-Koreans is December 14th. For more information, go to korea.edu/inter/ inter_03_01.php.

Seoul National University also offers a GSIS Degree in International Business, with courses offered in International Cooperation and Area Studies.

Check out the GSIS website for deadlines for Fall 2009 or Spring 2010 classes at gsis.snu.ac.kr.

Sogang University, located near Sinchon, has an active and growing GSIS program. There is a large offering of scholarships available to foreign students.

Areas of study include International Finance, International Relations, Trade, and East Asian Studies. Go to gsis.sogang.ac.kr for application information. The deadline for spring admission is November 6th.

Sookmyung University’s GSIS (in Sookmyung’s unique case the final S stands for Service, not Studies) Program has more of an international relations focus. Programs in NGO management and public relations are the two Sookmyung University most common areas of study for international students. The application deadline for next spring is November. Forms can be downloaded from their website at sookmyung.ac.kr/~gsis/index.html.

The GSIS at Yonsei University has been growing since its first classes in 1987. It now encompasses degree programs at the undergraduate, graduate and postgraduate levels, as well as dual degree and exchange programs. Business-related degrees include those in International Trade & Finance, International Management and International Cooperation. Applications are only available online at gsis. yonsei.ac.kr.

32 | 10 Magazine October 2009

www.700yachtclub.com

The newest gathering place for international professionals in Seoul

Yacht Club

Dinners on the BBQ deck

Membership and corporate events inquiries 376-5616 / 010-8192-9820

Restaurant for parties

Specializing in corporate team-building sailing lessons and races

Sailing lessons

Company event

Photo Image Courtesy of Taiwan Visitors Association Seoul Office

ASIA TRAVEL

Taipei

The Beautiful Island

Taiwan

Taroko Alishan

Pingtung

Words by John Scheid Kenting

Appropriately named by Portuguese settlers in the 1500s, ‘Illha Formosa’ (Beautiful Island) is said to be most enjoyable in autumn, as the sweltering summer heat has lifted and typhoon season stands at a safe distance from the island. However, the country can be enjoyed at any time of year; extensive coastlines and towering mountaintops offer cool refuge from the heat, whereas snowfall is scarce and winter temperatures rarely drop to sub-zero depths.

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Alishan A high speed rail line is a traveler’s friend in any country, and Taiwan boasts a great one. The ‘Taiwan HSR’ spans the entire west coast and joins its two largest cities (and sites in between) in less than 90 minutes. Visit thsrc.com.tw/en for pricing and station information. This is an excellent resource for travelers on the move and provides access to many western provinces and gateway cities to much of the country’s interior attractions.

One such attraction is Alishan (Mt. Ali) National Park in Chiayi County.

This locale boasts majestically hidden arboretums, ever-changing cloud forests, and impressively detailed temples. If visiting the natural refuge, recommended transportation from Chiayi City is the Alishan Forest Railway. Constructed in 1912, this narrow gauge train makes for an engaging traverse up the mountain.

Along the way, many tourists enjoy the humble offerings of Fenchihu, a quaint mountain town halfway to Alishan’s peak.

Outdoor markets sell selective products indigenous to the area, and penny pinchers can find less expensive lodging here, such as the Arnold Janssen Activity Center, a missionary center that welcomes guests from all over the world for a nominal fee (aj-centersvd.myweb.hinet.net). The park itself is not overwhelmingly expansive and can be hiked in one trip, though there are plenty of attractions to keep outdoor enthusiasts busy for days.

Taipei Home of the world-renowned and architecturally-innovative Taipei 101, one of the world’s tallest standing inhabitable structures, this expansive city provides a plethora of activities ranging from nightlong downtown escapades to feasible day trips that can satisfy a plethora of traveler aspirations. A visit to the towering Taipei 101 is worthwhile for an impressive view of the massive city. Ten levels shy of the summit the 91st floor outdoor observatory provides an experience unmatched by any indoor viewing room or cable car. The building also houses the world’s two fastest elevators, which skyrocket from the 5th to 89th floors in an astounding 37 seconds - at a rate of 1010 meters per minute. An alternate, indoor viewing room is located on the 89th floor. For more information,

visit tapei-101.com, though the elevators may be more expedient than the website.

Other draws and unique attributes to Taipei and many other cities in Taiwan are the traditional night markets. Especially during summer months, mercantile streets and alleyways congest with throngs of animated pedestrians enjoying the late night temperatures in the absence of a blistering summer sun. Many night markets operate until at least 2 am and provide guests with both appealing and peculiar dining options (including snake, chicken anus, oyster omelets, and of course, stinky tofu). The most prominent night market in Taipei is Shilin (easily accessible by the city’s expansive subway system), which provides shoppers with abundant apparel, extravagant tea sets, intricate art pieces, and a few other surprises.

Kenting The country’s lower tip, encompassed by a region called Pingtung, is easily accessible by high speed rail and bus and is home to Kenting National Park, which spans the peninsula that is southern Taiwan. This area is not to be missed as flush green mountains and deep blue waters are in overwhelming abundance.

Splendid views exist for the romantics, hard crashing waves flow for thrill-seekers and surf, and pristine beaches await the weary traveler.

Kenting Street is a shuffling strip that entertains patrons with fresh seafood, quaint surf shops, and lively night clubs. The strip is stacked with lodging accommodations, and camping is also available on certain beaches. Aside from beach lounging, shopping, seafood noshing, and sightseeing, visitors can also enjoy cycling and motor biking along beautiful coastal highways or clear water diving with schools of fluorescent fish.

10 Magazine October 2009 | 35

ASIA TRAVEL Taroko This national park’s name literally means “magnificent and beautiful”, which is no understatement considering the majesties found within its confines.

Carved by the powerful Liwu River, the Taroko Gorge poses as a humbling centerpiece for this pulsating playground. Taroko National Park is filled with silencing caves, howling mountaintops, and intriguing wildlife.

The eastern boarder of the park, composed of Chingshui Cliff, strays from the park’s inner tranquility, but provides the only access to the Pacific and boasts incredible coastal drops.

Mystery Valley, Taroko Gorge

Free campgrounds exist within the park but tend to fill up during peak season and are available only on a first come, first serve basis. Other lodging options include ‘pensions’ and inns.

Day trips can be easily made from nearby cities Hualien and Puli. If in search of more liberation, rent a car or motor bike with an international driver’s license and enjoy the sights at your own leisure. Though swarms of weekend tourists tend to invade the park, weekdays are relatively calm and traffic is minimal.

The flight takes barely two and a half hours and prices start at under W200,000. Though its landmass is dwarfed by many countries, Taiwan’s geographical diversity, intrinsically personable culture, and countrywide accessibility make for exciting yet practical travel. Like the country itself, Taiwanese people are an easy breed to enjoy; they exhibit a certain uninhibited, outgoing and accommodating nature that can charm any visitor from abroad. Whether seeking city thrills, late night markets or irreplaceable scenery, Taiwan can accommodate.

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at Taroko

at Alishan

Taroko Sunset

Shots by John Scheid and Iden Chen, except Taroko Gorge Image Courtesy of Taiwan Visitors Association Seoul Office

Chingshui Cliffs

Edited by Hanbit Koh and Dami Kang

+ = subject to 10% VAT, ++ = subject to 10% VAT and 10% service charge

Make the Perfect Proposal

sWagger Package W Seoul Walkerhill

JW Marriott Seoul

Just the package for a young couple looking to really enjoy themselves, the sWagger Package includes not only a night’s stay in a Wonderful room and breakfast for two, but unlimited beer and wine for two at the spectacular WooBar during WooHours (6 – 9 Mon. – Thurs.). Visit on a Fri. – Sun. and get 6 drinks and a 10% discount on any other food and beverages. You’ll also find two bottles of VOSS sparkling water in your room and be met with two Bloody Mary’s with your brunch. W290,000++. wseoul@whotels.com, 02-2022-0000

Lobster and Beef Added to Guest List This fall, couples can reserve a Presidential Suite on the 34th story of the JW Marriott Seoul for an evening of romance and delight.

Nervous would-be grooms will find the mood provided by the cityscape stretching below and the grand piano and entertainment center inside just right for those four unforgettable words. The two of you will also be supplied with a dinner of Australian beef tenderloin, wine, and dessert during your three hour stay from 7 to 10 pm. The Engagement Package is yours for W770,000++. 02-6282-6282

Renaissance Hotel Seoul

Manhattan Grill, the exclusive steakhouse at the Renaissance Seoul Hotel, is offering the Lobster and Hanwoo (Korean) Beef Promotion through the end of October. Kindle your appetite this autumn with juicy lobster and tender steak served with tantalizing sauces including garlic cheese sauce garnished with raw oyster and spinach and bisque sauce topped with wild mushrooms and mozzarella.

Another crowd pleaser features abalone, scallops, lobster, and other seafood served up with steak.

Dinners cost from W68,000++ to W120,000++.

02-2222-8637

Leave Your Stress at the Spa Door Novotel Ambassador Busan

Through November 30th, take advantage of the Novotel Ambassador Busan’s Autumn Spa Package. Your relaxing weekend getaway includes access to the gymnasium and the pool with ocean view, sauna admission for two, 10% off meals at the restaurant, and half off the Ryan & Lillian Golf and Sports Center (except for screen golf).

W150,000++ for deluxe room. Surcharges apply for Friday and Saturday stay and ocean view rooms. 051-743-1234

Oktoberfest

Millennium Seoul Hilton Orangerie, the Millennium Seoul Hilton’s international buffet, invites you to eat, drink, and be merry at its version of the famous German festival of Oktoberfest this month. In addition to the usual buffet offerings, Orangerie is adding German dishes such as sausages, sauerkraut, and pretzels. For an even more festive experience, add W15,000 to the tab for unlimited soft drinks, draft beer, and wine. Lunch/dinner costs W50,000/ W55,000 for adults and W30,000/W33,000 for children 12 and under. 02-317-3143.

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Edited by Hanbit Koh and Dami Kang

+ = subject to 10% VAT, ++ = subject to 10% VAT and 10% service charge

Executive Package

Daegu Novotel City Centre Located right in the heart of Daegu’s business and shopping center, the Novotel Daegu offers business travelers the attractive Executive Package through the end of the year. Weary travelers get the treatment they deserve with accommodation in an executive room, buffet breakfast in the executive lounge, free drinks and snacks in the executive lounge during happy hour 6 pm – 10:30 pm, and access to the sauna and fitness center. Don’t worry about missing that crucial email with free high speed wireless internet in your room. reservation@novoteldaegu.com, 053-664-1111

Full Moon Package The Imperial Palace Non-Koreans will want to make the most of their long Chuseok (meaning “harvest moon”) weekend with the Imperial Palace Hotel’s Full Moon Package.

Good from October 1st – 4th, the package offers one night/two nights in a superior room for only W115,000/W200,000. Upgrade to a deluxe room for W150,000/W250,000 for one night/two nights. Guests also enjoy unlimited access to the fitness center and indoor swimming pool, a 10% discount on any food orders at hotel restaurants, and breakfast buffet for two at Café Amiga for W50,000++ extra. imperialpalace.co.kr, 02-3440-8000

Fall Story

Sheraton Grand Walkerhill

Cool Evenings, Cool Jazz Astoria Hotel Seoul Even if you missed the Sheraton Grand Walkerhill’s Oktoberfest Party on September 19th, you can still make it to the events planned for this season’s “Fall Story.” On October 9th, see Korean heartthrob Kim Bum Soo’s 10th Anniversary Concert at Walkerhill’s Jade Garden. Beer drinkers will want to stop in to sample some rich beers at Walkerhill’s Oktoberfest each day from noon to 10 pm through October 11th. Try the Wine Fair on October 10th and 11th for some choice vintages. 02-450-4595

The Bella Coolla 63 restaurant at the Astoria Hotel offers an enticing evening event this fall with performances by Korean jazz band JFK (Jazz Future of Korea). JFK brings its extensive experience in the New York jazz scene to Bella Coolla for intimate, relaxing jazz each Thursday and Friday evening. Find the wine to match the mood with the Wine Loving Lady (W15,000) and Wine Loving Man (W20,000) events offered the same nights. bellacoolla@naver.com, 02-2275-7473

Chuseok Holiday Package Seacloud Hotel Basan

If you can’t (or won’t) enjoy your mom’s hospitality this Chuseok, consider letting the Seacloud Hotel take care of you instead. The Chuseok Holiday Package adds comfort to the crisp autumn weather with a free upgrade from a superior room to a suite room. Other benefits include breakfast for two, an extra blanket upon request, and discount coupons for the Busan Aquarium, Busan Aquarium 3D Rider, and the Tiffany 21 cruise. W150,000+ for half ocean view, add W30,000 for full ocean view. seacloudhotel.com, 051-933-1000

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FEATURE

PIFF, 2008

The 10 Best Festivals in October The original main feature for this month included 10 great festivals,

but then came the fear (we prefer to call it paranoia) over H1N1, and all of the sudden the festivals were dropping like flies. (You may notice from our “Korea by the Numbers” that we find there are much more productive things to worry about.)

Ulsan has had one of the best music festivals in Korea for decades. Cancelled. Gwangju is famous for the best Korean food around and their huge, once-a-year Kimchi Festival is one of their biggest of the year. Cancelled. Jinju has a massive Festival of Lights on the Namgang River we couldn’t wait to share with families. Cancelled. They just kept disappearing, much to our dismay, but the good news is we still were left with the cream-of-the-crop, and we found great writers with exceptional experience to write about each of them. We’re still pretty happy with our results, and we hope you still get some great ideas of how to enjoy October.

Wash your hands frequently. Oh, and don’t commit suicide, and wear your seatbelt on the way.

You’ll be fine.

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PIFF, 2008

The 14th Pusan International Film Festival Words by Frances Darwin The Pusan International Film Festival is a nine-day affair, running from October 8th - 16th, and is the largest film festival in Asia.

While many festivals in Korea claim to be “international” but disappointingly are not, PIFF is truly deserving of its title: it is a multicultural, cinematic extravaganza!

This year, the festival will be screening over 350 films from 70 countries, including: France, Iran, Argentina, Kenya, Tajikistan and Iceland...not to mention every Asian and English-speaking country you can think of. Each film at the festival is accompanied by both English and Korean subtitles. Hundreds of them from all over the world, and you get to see them months before they hit your local cinema – that is if they come at all. If you’re lucky, an actor or director might attend a Q&A at your film screening, and you might even meet someone famous. This year, the festival is hosting several internationally renowned actors and directors. American star Josh Hartnett will be there promoting his film "I Come with the Rain".

When the films end—the parties begin. One of the reasons that PIFF has garnered the nickna me “The Cannes of Korea” is because of its close proximity to the beach…and the beach parties.

The hardcore festival-goers will stay out all night long and then line up for tickets in the early hours of the morning.

The box office only sells tickets for films on a day-to-day basis.

If you line up on a Friday, you can only buy tickets for that day, not the rest of the weekend. If you don't feel like waking up early to ensure you get tickets to the film of your choice, never fear, there is

always a plethora of tickets to see something last minute. But if you are one of those people that like to prepare ahead of time, it is possible to reserve tickets before you actually get to the festival.

This year, PIFF is offering its online ticket reservation service in both Korean and English. Go to www.piff.org to register and book tickets. Online registration began on September 23rd and continues until October 15th. Ticket reservation is also available through ATMs at GS25 convenient stores and at all branches of the Busan Bank (Banks are open 9 am – 4 pm and ATMs and phone banking are available 9am-10pm).

Speaking of the bank, how much are these tickets going to cost you? The general screenings and outdoor screenings are only W5000. "Midnight Passion" and the "Opening/Closing Ceremonies" are only W10,000.

The films are shown in a variety of locations. There are 6 theatres (totalling in 36 movie screens): Lotte, CGV, Megabox, Cinus, Daeyoung and a Yachting Centre that doubles as a 5,000person outdoor theatre. For the purposes of the festival, downtown Pusan is essentially divided into two areas known as “PIFF Village” (in Haeundae) and “PIFF Square” (in Nampo-Dong).

Travelling between the two areas can be time consuming, and people will often miss their films because they’ve underestimated their travel time. There is a strict policy for latecomers: you’re not allowed in.

This year, the festival expects to attract over 200,000 filmgoers and is hosting 10,000 guests from all over the world… so there’s going to be a lot of traffic. The festival provides a free shuttle bus between PIFF Village and PIFF Square, but the best way to get around is by using the Pusan subway. There are only 3 lines, so the subway is easy to use, and it's cheap (only W3500 for a day pass).

10 Magazine October 2009 | 43

FEATURE

Jarasum Jazz Festival, 2008

The only downside to the subway system is that it closes at 12am, so if you want to make it to and from the "Midnight Passion" screenings, you will need to take a taxi. piff.org

Jarasum Jazz Festival Words by Mike Berry From October 15th to 18th, Gapyeong, a small city on the banks of the Bukhan River nestled in the mountains about 40 Kilometres ENE of Seoul, becomes the focal point for four days of world class Jazz, traditional culture, and artistic innovation. This year’s festival will be the second year in which the physical parameters of the event have been expanded. The first four years saw the festival completely settled on Jara Island; all shows taking place at one of the four stages set up at various points on the island, and which meant access to any performance was simply a matter of a short walk. Last year, the festival ‘burst its banks’ so to speak, and incorporated different stylistic venues at points all over Kapyong city itself. There were some logistics problems, but they should be sorted now.

The biggest shows will be held at the Main Stage (which runs from 5 – 11 pm on Fri. and Sat.; 4-9:30 pm on Sun.) on Jara Island, and the lineup for the weekend does contain some serious talent. Korean jazzers 44 | 10 Magazine October 2009

the Lee Sang Min Band open the whole thing on Friday night, and it just goes uphill from there. Swedish pianist Jan Lundgren (Quincy Jones is a big fan) comes on next, then two mainstays close things out: guitarist Pat Martino and his Quartet, and, finally, Italian trumpet virtuoso Enrico Rava. If there’s only one act you can see here on Friday, Rava is it!

Enrico Rava

The two biggest draws on Saturday’s Main Stage have to be saxophonist Chris Potter (again, a ‘must see’), and bassist Avishai Cohen, one of the new lions of jazz bass (hey, if he’s good enough for Chick Corea); both of these performers are truly outstanding, and hats off to Jarasum organizers for getting them here. On

Sunday, the opening act, Korean pianist Hae-rim Jeon should kick off the evening in style, while closing act Dee Dee Bridgewater (the appellation ‘legend’ is appropriate here) will certainly end the weekend in her own inimitable style!

The other event locales are to be found ‘off island’, and primarily around Kapyong Stadium. There will be shuttle buses from the island to these other venues, although they can be reached in about 20 minutes if you don’t mind walking; in fact, the walk is actually better, as you get to experience the atmosphere of the festival in the town itself, and can stop off at the Jazz Street stage outside the railway station to catch some of the young hipsters pounding out their rhythms as they add a touch of colour to the scene.

For those into getting down and getting with it, the Party Gym (10 pm-3 am) is the place to be after the Main Stage shuts down. On Friday night the bands to catch have to be Korean 12-piece funksters Common Ground - who do their utmost to channel James Brown right into the inner recesses of the soul - and Ibrahim Electric, an absolutely kick-ass power-jazz trio from Copenhagen who do things with a Hammond B-3, Guitar, and Drums that your mother would not approve of (or, maybe she would…!). On Saturday night, it’s an all-Korean stompfest with GoGo Star, The Rocktigers, Client Funk Society, and Trix; if this doesn’t do it, you’re in the WRONG place! jarasumjazz.com

Seoul Performing Arts Festival Words by Ryan M.McKevey The 9th annual Seoul Performing Arts Festival will be held from Oct. 13th until Nov. 21st at major theatre venues across Seoul including the Arko Arts Theater, Daehangno Arts Theater, Seoul Arts Center, Sejong Center, Myeongdong Theater and Namsan Arts Center.

The exciting theme for SPAF2009, ‘Analog & Digilog’, is about appreciating the theatrical styles of the past while introducing and exploring more contemporary innovations in performance. From a

Romeo and Juliet

Hamlet

A Dance Tribute to the Art of Football Symphoca Princess Bari

traditional Korean Opera version of – This World Romeo and Juliet to A Dance Tribute to the Art of Football to a one-man 4D animation dance, SPAF2009 includes 40 impressive performances from Korea, Japan, China, Russia, Poland, Hungary, Italy, France, England, Norway, Canada and Australia.

There are several productions this year that may appeal directly to the foreign community in Seoul.

Symphoca Princess Bari – This World, Oct. 26th-27th at the Arko Arts Theater in Daehangno, is a Korean dance performance by the Ahn Eun-Me Company. In my humble opinion, the work of this company brings dance to an unquestionable level of creativity and originality. Having experienced one of their works at last year’s SPAF, I can honestly 10 Magazine October 2009 | 45

FEATURE

be more than happy to share with you that this year’s Symphoca Princess Bari – This World will be the show to see.

From Italy, Compagnia Labortatorio di Pontedera, under the direction of Roberto Bacci, offers a rather unique perspective into the text and character of Hamlet. With Hamlet surrounded by six masked duelists performing multiple roles, this is sure to be an evening of experimentation with aural and visual artistry at is highest. Certainly, Bacci’s production will be Shakespeare for the modern—thinking—audience. HAMLET. From the Flesh runs Nov. 14th-15th at the Daehangno Arts Theater.

From what I know and hear, both Seoul’s native and foreign communities love football (soccer, for you Americans). At SPAF2009, those passionate about dance may have just the perfect opportunity to bring their sports friends with them to the theater.

From Norway, the Jo Strømgren kompani brings us a unique exploration into the game with their piece, A Tribute to the Art of Football, Nov. 20th-21st at the Sejong M Theater. Not only is the dance a hilarious and physically demanding performance, but it truly offers an original presentation of beautiful movements and images.

More than ever before, SPAF is very interested in expanding its reach to the foreign community in Seoul. SPAF2009 offers several shows subtitled in English and a number of exhilarating non-verbal performances. They have launched a new, easy-to-navigate, website in English to help foreigners get information about the festival. The website includes all relevant show information in English, French, Japanese, and of course Korean. The Seoul Performing Arts Festival sells out most of its shows, so it would be wise to make your selections now and reserve your tickets as soon as possible.

Additionally, SPAF has a special ticket package for foreigners called ‘Global Appeal’. This offer includes 4 theatre productions (subtitled in English) and 2 local dance performances. ‘Global Appeal’ offers a 35% discount on those 6 shows. If you would like to pick your own shows, SPAF also offers the Multi-Buy option, where you can pick 5 performances and get 30% off. spaf.or.kr/english 46 | 10 Magazine October 2009

Seoul’s Kimchi Love Festival October 23rd – 25th Words by Curtis Lee The world may offer many great festivals, but no other place in the world could possibly do a “Kimchi Festival” as well as Korea.

Film, music and the performing arts may have Korean influences, but for a truly Korean experience it’s hard to argue that anything could be better than joining in on the Kimchi Love Festival of 2009. Happening on the historic grounds of Gyeonghui Palace, the festival shows off Korea’s culinary pride and joy with plenty of preparation and tasting opportunities catered specifically to the foreign community.

This year’s theme appears to be in keeping with Korean trends as they focus on “luxury kimchi”, perhaps seemingly an oxymoron, but the actual underlying tone being that this kimchi is not your typical run-of-the-mill kimchi but instead the traditional preparation for Korean royalty. There will be an ongoing exhibition of “Royal kimchi” as well as tons of those friendly Koreans around to teach you everything you ever wanted to know about Korea’s most ubiquitous dish and the upscale ways in which it is prepared.

From 10 am – 6:30 pm on the 24th and 25th the “Kimchi Making Experience” will be open to participants as well as the Jongro-gu “Our Food Festival” where you can taste all the fruits of Korean dining history, including the fermentation process as it relates to traditional Korean liquor. They even have an event set up just for foreigners from 4 – 5:30 pm on the 25th called the “Making of Kimchi of Harmony and Sharing”, which of course is to teach newcomers and visitors to Korea how to make a quality kimchi themselves.

While the English is far from perfect, they have set up a quality website with plenty of information on when and where events are taking place and the types of events being held. Get your health-vitalityimmunity boost as well as Korean camaraderie from the Kimchi Love Festival this month. kimchifestival.org

NEWCOMER Directory (all English accessible contacts) Hotlines Emergency 119 Police 112 Directory Assistance 114 Medical Information Center 1339 (This is a 24-hour, nationwide hospital information service available in English, Korean, Chinese and Japanese) Foreigner Assistance/Translation BBB 24-hour Language Assistance 1588-5644 KTO Tourism 24-hr Infoline 1330 Korea Immigration immigration.go.kr, 1345 Korean Customs customs.go.kr, 1577-8577 Seoul Dasan (City Info) 02-120 Foreigner Assistance Organizations Busan Foundation for International Activities

bfia.or.kr, 1577-7716 Gwangju International Center gwangjuic.or.kr, 062-226-1050 Seoul Global Center global.seoul.go.kr, 02-1688-0120 Yeoksam Global Village (English) 02-3453-9038 Yeonnam Global Village (Chinese) 02-6406-8151 Sorae Global Village (French) 02-570-6009 Ichon Global Village (Japanese) 02-760-2018 Itaewon/Hannam Global Village (English) 02-796-2459

Radio

Medical Services

Arirang Radio Jeju City Seoguipo City

FM 88.7 FM 88.1

TBS eFM Busan Gwangju Seoul

FM 90.5 FM 98.7 FM 101.3

US Armed Forces Network Chinhae AM 1512 Daegu AM 1080 Dongducheon AM 1197

FM 88.5 FM 88.5 FM 88.3

Gunsan Gwangju Pohang

AM 1440

FM 88.5 FM 88.5

Pyongtaek Seoul Songtan

AM 1440 AM 1530 AM 1359

FM 88.3 FM 102.7 FM 88.5

Uijongbu Waegwan Wonju

AM 1161 AM 1080 AM 1440

FM 88.5 FM 88.5 FM 88.3

Korean Banks (The following are the only banks that offer English online banking and international debit cards.)

Korea Exchange Bank (KEB - 외환은행) keb.co.kr, 02-729-0114 SC First Bank (SC 제일은행) scfirstbank.com, 02-3702-3114 Major Foreign Banks

flyasiana.com, 1588-8000 flyairbusan.com, 1588-8009 jejuair.net, 1599-1500 koreanair.com, 1588-2001

Intercity Express Bus kobus.co.kr, 1588-6900 Korea Railroad Corp. korail.com, 1544-7788 Seoul Interactive Subway Map smrt.co.kr Taxi Mobeom Taxi Service Nationwide 1588-2255 (The nationwide “black taxi” number will put you in touch with a driver who speaks English, but these taxis cost about twice as much as taxis from the rest of the color spectrum.)

Greater Seoul Area International Taxi 1644-2255 Jumbo Taxi Service (Even more expensive.)

02-888-2000 Otherwise call 1330 for regular taxis in your area.

Investment Assistance KOTRA Invest Korea

kotra.or.kr, 02-3460-7114 investkorea.org, 02-3460-7545

48 | 10 Magazine October 2009

A 10 Tip The useful interactive map at smrt.co.kr gives you directions to and from any subway station and the exact time it will take.

AM 1512

Transportation Domestic Airlines Asiana Busan Air Jeju Air Korean Air

Korea HIV/AIDS Prevention & Support Center khap.org, 02-927-4322 Ra Dental Clinic 02-569-8745 Hus Hu Dental & Skin Clinic 02-514-8013 Korea Counseling Psychological Association krcpa.or.kr, 02-498-8293 Jaseng Hospital of Oriental Medicine jaseng.net, 02-3218-2167

American Express americanexpress.co.kr, 02-2000-8100 Australia & New Zealand Banking Group 02-3700-3100 China Construction Bank ccbseoul.com, 02-6730-1718 Citibank citibank.co.kr, 02-3455-2114 Deutsche Bank 02-724-4500 Bank of America 02-2202-4500 Bank of China

02-399-0368 BNP Paribas bnpparibas.co.kr, 02-317-1700 HSBC

02-311-0060 (Websites shown are specifically for the Korean branches of displayed foreign banks.)

Accommodation 4-5 Star Hotels Busan Novotel Ambassador Seacloud

051-743-1234 051-933-1000

Seoul Astoria COEX InterContinental Courtyard Grand InterContinental JW Marriott

Millenium Hilton Renaissance Ritz-Carlton

02-2268-7111 02-3452-2500 02-2638-3000 02-555-5656 02-6282-6262 02-753-7788 02-555-0501 02-3451-8000

Daegu Novotel Ambassador

053-664-1101

Hostels Busan Arpina Zen Backpackers

051-740-3228 010-8722-1530

Daejeon Yuseong

042-822-9591

Daejeon Yuseong

042-822-9591

Gwangju Gwangju Youth Hostel

062-943-4378

Seoul Kim’s Guesthouse Olympic Parktel

02-337-9894 02-410-2114

Got an idea for info that should be added to our Newcomer Directory ?

Send it to comments@10magazine.asia

NATIONWIDE 50 • SEOUL 54 • GYEONGGI PROVINCE 66 • CHUNGCHEONG PROVINCE 70 • GaNGwon PROVINCE 71 JEOLLA PROVINCE 72 • BUSAN, GYEONGSANG PROVINCE 73 • JEJU ISLAND 77 • NETWORKING CALENDAR 79 Compilation of photos from Pusan International Film Festival

CALENDAR Coco Before Chanel

NATIONWIDE

Movies Coco before Chanel (Coco Avant Chanel) Directed by Anne Fontaine

Monolinguals beware: this is a “très bon” French film. If you can’t speak French or read Korean, then wait for this film (and its English subtitles) to come out on DVD. This is not a story about fashion, but a tale of a woman ahead of her time: Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel (played

by Audrey Tautou) begins her life in a Catholic orphanage and works her way up… in a time when women didn’t even work at all. This film beautifully contrasts 19th century opulence with Coco’s ideas of what should be 20th century simplicity. The film is intimate and intricate not only within the plot (there is a love triangle), but also in how the film is made: The cinematography and soundscape (French: L’univers sonore) 50 | 10 Magazine October 2009

Frances Darwin

who knocks up his 15 year old sweetheart, Jenny (Min-ji Park).

The Korean film is sillier, more romantic and lacks the dry wit of its American counterpart, but it’s still fun to watch and well filmed. There are some hilarious Jenny, Juno (제니, 주노) Korean sex-education scenes, and some great acting on behalf Directed by Ho-joon Kim of Juno’s mother. Go While the American Can be purchased see the film for yourself teen-comedy Juno was or seen with English subtitles and draw your own enjoying its popularity in at a “DVD Bang” conclusions as to whether the West, Koreans were near you. or not the American film apparently not big fans of is stolen goods. the film. Why? It is claimed that Juno is a rip off of Jenny, Juno, Cyborg She a Korean film that is also about (싸이보그 그녀) teen pregnancy. In the American film, we never figure out why Directed by Jae-yong Kwak Juno, the impregnated teen, has At a press release in April such an unusual name (“Like 2009, Korean Director Jae-yong the city in Alaska?” “No.”). In Kwak summarized his latest the Korean film, Juno (Hyefilm by saying: “It’s like a gift sung Kim) is the boyfriend to myself, to my lonely days as a always linger on beautiful details. The sight and sound of Coco’s scissors cutting through cloth seem like an allegory for the same type of careful cutting/ editing in this film. Five stars.

Jenny, Juno

Juno

Cyborg She

young man without a girlfriend”.

Despite the W10 bil. budget and Japanese superstars (the film is a Japanese production) one can’t shake the fact that Kwak was right: his film is just a geek’s fantasy. A sexy spandex-clad cyborg (Haruka Ayasein) visits Jiro (Keisuke Koide) on his birthday and saves him from assassination. It turns out she was created by his future self in 2133 and has been sent to protect him and keep him company.

There are some beautiful special effects (especially towards the end of the film) and humorous moments, but the plot is mostly boring, confusing, and cheesy. Many Koreans have criticized this film for being like a Japanese sci-fi version of Kwak’s most popular Korean film, My Sassy Girl (엽기적인 그녀).

NEW RELEASES

NATIONWIDE

October 1st Bella Drama, USA & Mexico Directed by Alejandro Gomez Monteverde Starring Eduardo Verastegui, Tammy Blanchard, Manny Perez, Ali Landry and Angelica Aragon. bellamoviesite.com The Final Destination Horror, thriller, USA Directed by David R. Ellis Starring Bobby Campo, Shantel VanSanten, Nick Zano, Haley Webb and Mykelti Williamson. thefinaldestinationmovie.com Surrogates Action, Sci-Fi, USA Directed by Jonathan Mostow Starring Bruce Willis, Radha Mitchell, Rosamund Pike, Ving Rhames and Michael Cudlitz, surrogates.co.kr Gamer Action, Sci-Fi, USA Directed by Mark Neveldine and Brian Taylor Starring Gerard Butler, Alison Lohman, Aaron Yoo, Milo Ventimiglia and Michael C. Hall. gamerthemovie.com Inglourious Basterds Drama, War, USA & Germany Directed by Quentin Tarantino Starring Brad Pitt, Diane Kruger, Christoph Waltz, Melanie Laurent and Eli Roth. weinsteinco.com/#/film/ inglourious October 15th Planet B-Boy Documentary, History, Music, USA, Directed by Benson Lee, planetbboy.com District 9 Action, Drama, Sci-Fi, Thriller, USA, Directed by Neill Blomkamp Starring Sharlto Copley, William Allen Young, Robert Hobbs, Kenneth Nkosi and Jason Cope. d-9.com October 22nd The Road Drama, Sci-Fi, Thriller, USA Directed by John Hillcoat Starring Viggo Mortensen, Charlize Theron, Guy Pearce and Robert Duvall. theroad-movie.com October 28th This Is It Music, USA Directed by Kenny Ortega Starring Michael Jackson and Orianthi. this-is-it.co.kr 10 Magazine October 2009 | 51

CALENDAR

Music Mucho Punk Clazziquai Fluxus Music

NATIONWIDE

First of all, to those of you rushing to dust off your Doc Martens and preparing to slam dance to some iconoclastic Korean hi-energy punk sorry to disappoint. Title notwithstanding, Clazziquai’s latest album isn’t what you’re looking for. However, for fans interested in the Korean chillout/ electronica trio’s new sound, this might just be what the doctor ordered, especially when a healthy dose of sophisticated pop lyricism, clever instrumental explorations, and excellent production is added to the original mix.

Mucho Punk is another step

Mike Berry up the ladder of musical maturity for Clazziquai, and, while sufficient homage to their electronica origins is still evident, the sound on this album reaches into much more expansive realms. The admixture of Korean and English lyrical content adds a more colourful element to the overall sound, and the diverse selection of styles emerging from the group’s tunesmithing is a further bonus.

NYC Brazilian Girls Verve

They’re not Brazilian and only one of them is a girl, but New York-based avant-pop trio Brazilian Girls are back on their journey along the musical edge where a misstep in any direction

can land them back in the unwelcome confines of artistic conformity. This has always been a group that has prized keeping critics off-balance, and whose previous two albums – while somewhat acclaimed – tended to discomfit any listeners who sought staid comfort in their musical preferences.

This has been helped in no small way by the multi-lingual vocals of Sabina Sciubba, who can utilize Spanish, French, English, German, and Portuguese to telling effect where required, and to the often off-beat, borderline discordance of bandmates Didi Gutman and Aaron Johnson, whose deft touch with all other instrumentation has helped create the group’s distinctive sound.

Fans of the group should appreciate this latest effort with little fuss, and those seeking a new experience in music just might agree.

Big Sound: New Music Sampler Various Artists Q Music This latest release from Australia features and showcases some of the new music that is adding a new dimension to the music scene ‘down under’. All of the artists on this album hail from the state of Queensland, and who would have guessed there was so much musical diversity from such a source? Just about every style of contemporary music that could fall under the rubric of rock/ pop is covered here. This is one of those albums that contains almost an overabundance of good-to-great music, and with 20 artists on tap, a tune-by-tune analysis is impossible. Here is just a highlight.

For sheer powerpop/surf rock exuberance look no further than ‘Going To The Casino’ (which 52 | 10 Magazine October 2009

should be every gambler’s theme song) from Philadelphia Grand Jury; 70s style sitar-rock gets a competent outing on Old Man River’s ‘Sunshine’; the Optimen up the ante with ‘80s Babies’ with some taut, hardwrung Australian hiphop.

Hard rock gets a look in with ‘Don’t Listen To Us’ from the Devoted Few, and some crunchy, bass-driven grunge Metal from DZ will give sensitive ears a real workout.

This is a great collection of new Australian music that does not forget the legacy of the past. More please!

Rhythms Del Mundo Various Artists Universal/APE

Another collection of tunes from various artists plying their trade in the world of contemporary music, ranging from relative newcomers (The Zutons) to serious old-timers (The Rolling Stones) with a number of odds and sods (Amy Winehouse; The Kooks) thrown in for good measure.

The Killers’ version of ‘Hotel California’ opens the album, and while competent, lacks the esoteric edge that such a song requires. Jack Johnson goes a little way towards redemption with his version of John Lennon’s ‘Imagine’, Kaiser Chiefs perform a low-power version of ‘Heard It Through The Grapevine’, The Rolling Stones play it safe on ‘Under The Boardwalk’, and Freddie Mercury (if he were here today) might be shaking his head in amazement at Augusto Enriquez’s arrangement of ‘Bohemian Rhapsody’.

Pleasant enough listening, but overall the effect is… well, just a little too soft to really grab the attention of any serious listener.

Books Dead Until Dark

bookstore in Korea. 292 pages, W8,310

The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo Stieg Larsson “Uncompromising” might be the best word to describe this book’s determined characters and unswerving plot. The title character, Lisbeth Salander, is a self-loathing young woman with remarkable investigative skills, a photographic memory, and what might politely be called relationship issues. Lisbeth is drawn into an unlikely alliance with an older, disgraced journalist and a dying industrialist to solve a 40-year-old disappearance.

There are twists and turns galore as the story wrestles with political and journalistic issues of power, corruption, justice, and innocence defiled.

Justice, more or less, is served and although the book’s end is not as taut and claustrophobic as earlier sections (it shifts from traditional story telling to exchanges of emails that are a

little awkward), it is still a harsh tale told well. Author Larsson died in 2004, but had two more completed novels in his desk, one of which is already out in hard cover. 608 pages, W19,440

The Time Traveler’s Wife Audrey Niffenegger Released as a movie to poor reviews and box office receipts, one reads this heartstringtugging but compelling account of love across time, wondering how anyone thought it could be a movie. The Time Traveler’s Wife features internal dialogues, leaps in time and plot, and one of the oddest couples in romance

fiction who meet in very unusual circumstances. The middle-aged Henry appears naked in a field, where he meets his bride-tobe, Clare, who is only six years old at the time. Their ‘affair’ bounces across time with the husband knowing the future and balancing what can and can’t be revealed. That future holds a tragic surprise, but in the end love overcomes all and even a hard-hearted cynic might find a single tear wending its way down their cheek as the book concludes. Potential readers should not let the negative buzz from the movie keep them from reading Niffenegger’s excellent novel. 546 pages, W19,440

Tech

Paul Kang

Moving to ‘The Cloud’ Are you having trouble moving large files or just need to securely access your important files from any computer, anytime, anywhere?

Sending files to your email has its limits. CDs, DVDs, and USB thumb drives are a thing of the past. Take advantage of today’s cloud computing systems and the internet by having all of your files with you everywhere. There are a multitude of services that provide Word of caution Abstain from having sensitive information like social security numbers, passwords, and credit card information stored online.

These services provide a high level of security, but anyone that is determined enough to get their hands on your information still can.

Bottom Line Use the service you are most comfortable with. It’s better than using an external hard drive, USB thumb drives, or carrying multiple DVDs/CDs that you can potentially lose.

Company

Drop Box

syncing files across multiple computers, sharing and collaborating with files larger than 1GB, and unlimited access to your files anywhere with internet access.

Here is a brief comparison of some of the most popular online storage solutions available:

Media Fire

MobileMe iDisk

Mozy

Sugarsync

Website

getdropbox.com

mediafire.com

www.apple.com/ mozy.com mobileme/features/ idisk.html

sugarsync.com

OS

Windows, Mac, Linux

Windows, Mac, Linux

Mac, iPod, iPhone

Windows, Mac

Windows, Mac, iPhone, Blackberry, Android

Free/2GB

Unlimited Storage for both plans

60 Day Free Trial

Free/2GB

Free/2GB

$90yr/20GB

$4.95mth/ Unlimited

$4.99mth/30GB

Pricing

$9.99mth/50GB $19.99mth /100GB Referrals can get you up to 250MB per a person up to a total of 5GB

Free/Up to 100MB per file $6.97mth/Up to 10GB per file

$149/40GB

Pro Desktop: $3.95 + $0.50/GB per mth Server: $6.95 + $0.50/GB per mth

$9.99mth/60GB $14.99mth /100GB $24.99mth /250GB

10 Magazine October 2009 | 53

SEOUL

Charlaine Harris Charlaine Harris’ Dead Until Dark is the first of nine vampire novels in her popular series which has spawned several best-sellers and the HBO series TrueBlood. Raucous, sexual and violent, Dead Until Dark features vampire-on-human sex, human-on-animal murder, vampire-on-vampire violence, human-on-human murder … and the list goes on, written in blood.

The characters are equally varied - from the heroine, a virginal mind-reading waitress, through to her shape-shifting boss, to vampires with hearts of gold, hearts of coal, and hearts with stakes through them. Harris heaps a lot of plot into this novel and its underlying message is of our shared humanity, even when we aren’t entirely human.

The writing is simple and direct, which helps the novel speed by.

Several of the other novels in Harris’ series are currently on the best-seller list, and these are easy to find in any major

Charles Montgomery

CALENDAR Design & Fashion October 9th – 29th Seoul Design Olympics

SEOUL Everyone is a designer at the Seoul Design Olympics, held at the Han River Park, the Jamsil Sports Complex, and throughout downtown Seoul. In order to achieve the dream of Seoul as a sustainable, technological, and reliable city, design is essential. Composed of a conference, exhibition, competition, and festival, the SDO features events like the food design festival, with Korean dishes presented in unusual but appealing designs, to illustrate how design can be applied in our daily lives. Mon – Thu 10 am – 7 pm, Fri & Sat 10 am – 9 pm, Sun 10 am – 8 pm. sdo.seoul.go.kr, 02-413-5183

Art Through October 10th Spectrum Exhibit The diversity and direction of art in Korea today is represented by a “spectrum” of 90 pieces by 30 artists in multiple genres. 11 am – 6 pm.

Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. Sejong Center, Gwanghwamun St. (line 5), ex. 8. sejongpac.or.kr, 02-399-1151 Through October 29th The Double Dream of Art 2RC After making its way through

prestigious galleries in Milan, Moscow, and Beijing, this exhibition is now on display at the Seoul National University Museum of Art with the support of the Italian Cultural Institute of Seoul. Gathering 121 large pieces by designers associated with the 2RC printers in Rome, it illustrates the artistic potential of graphic design.

Get to the on-campus museum via shuttle, bus, or taxi from Seoul Nat’l Univ. St. (line 2), exit. 3. snumoa.org, 02-880-9504 20th Century Masters of Photography Drawing on the aid of the French National Museum, the Musee d’Orsay, and the Pompidou Center, this exhibit presents some of the most outstanding photographs of the 20th century, focusing on the work of the European avant-garde movement.

Seoul Arts Center’s Hangaram Design Museum. 11 am – 8 pm. sac.or.kr, 02-580-1300 September 30th – October 7th Common Ground Held at the Tong-in Gallery in Insadong near Anguk St. (line 3), ex.

6, this exhibit features the pottery of four Canadian ceramicists with roots in England, Korea, Denmark, Ukraine, and Kazakhstan. The work on display here, which will also be on exhibit at the Cheongju International Craft Biennale, illustrates the techniques of wood firing, primitive pit firing, and salt and electric firing. tonginstore.com, 02-735-9094 September 30th - November 22nd City Net Asia 2009 View the present and future of art in Asia with more than 100 pieces provided by the Mori Art Museum (Tokyo), the Today Art Museum (Beijing), the Istanbul Modern Art Museum, and the Seoul Museum of Art. 10 am – 10 pm. Adults W700, minors free. Seoul Museum of Art near City Hall St. (lines 1, 2), ex. 10. seoulmoa.seoul.go.kr, 02-120 October 6th – 11th The Changing Face of Contemporary Korean Painting The works by the experienced and talented painters on display here show the direction of Korean art. Seoul Arts

EDITOR’S PICK Ongoing French Express Lovers of French culture are in for a treat during the last quarter of this year. The French Cultural Center is sponsoring events from Seoul to Busan to Gwangju, typically supporting other existing events. They have helped bring in movies for the Pusan International Film Festival, musicians for the Jarasum Jazz Festival, and theater troupes for the Seoul Performing Arts Festival, among others. Most of the events have been listed separately in our Calendar, but you can also check out what they have sponsored on their site. france.or.kr 54 | 10 Magazine October 2009

Center near Nambu Bus Terminal St. (line 3), ex. 5. 11 am – 8 pm. sac.or.kr, 02-580-1300 October 12th – 16th Hongdae Street Art Festival Challenging the commonly held view of art as a product produced by an artist and consumed by an audience, this festival invites viewers to participate in the exhibits and events.

Held on the streets near Hongdae (Hongik University) and, of course, the playground near the Hongdae main gate. Hongik University (line 2), ex. 5. mapo.go.kr, 02-320-1203 October 14th – 25th MANIF Seoul International Art Fair

Chat with the artist as you admire the work. Over a hundred established painters and newcomers represented.

Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Bus Terminal St. (line 3), ex. 5. 11 am – 8 pm. sac.or.kr, 02-514-9292 October 17th – 31st Mulle International Arts Festival

Countries including Korea, Japan, and France turn the metalwork market in Mullae-dong into an art zone with street performances, exhibits, and movie screenings. Starting weekdays at 6 pm, Sat at 3 pm, and Sun at 12 pm. miaf.co.kr, 02-3667-9171 October 22nd – November 4th Korea on Foot: Photography Last spring, British photographer Oliver Raw walked from Busan to Seoul, taking pictures (and wearing out shoes) along the way. The twenty-five playful, candid photos displayed here chronicle his journey and give some insight into the “Koreanness” of Korea. Gallery M in downtown Seoul near Myeongdong St. (line 4), ex. 10. Weekdays 10:30 am – 7 pm, Sat 10:30 am – 3 pm. Closed Sundays and holidays. gallery-m.kr, 02-2277-2437 October 28th – November 3rd Kaleidoscope 2 Exhibit Art teacher Sun-im Koh presents a multicultural kaleidoscope of art

created by 18 of her students. Gallery La Mer in Insadong near Anguk St. (line 3), ex. 6. Everyday 10:30 am – 6 pm, Nov 3rd 10:30 am – 1:00 pm.

Reception Oct 31st 2:00 pm – 5:00 pm. gallerylamer.com, 02-730-5454 October 29th – November 6th The State of Contemporary Art in Seoul Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Bus Terminal St. (line 3), ex. 5. 11 am – 8 pm. sac.or.kr, 02-312-0942

Theater & Dance Open-run Nonverbal Performances

Break Out Watch five prisoners trying to make good on their jail break in this wacky, winsome non-verbal dance comedy combining B-boy (break dance) hijinks with martial arts moves and gymnastics. In the heart of Seoul near Jonggak Station, exit 4 (line 1). 8 pm.

W40,000 – W50,000. Great English website. yegam.com/breakout/ENG, 02-722-3995 Drawing Show Is it an art exhibit or a performance?

As fun to watch as it is hard to classify, the drawing show is, simply put, a dramatic presentation of the process of drawing. Held at the Drawing Show Theater in Daehangno (Hyehwa Station, exit 1). Weekdays 8 pm. Sat 4 pm, 7 pm. Sun 3 pm, 6 pm.

Closed Mondays. Adults W30,000, children W20,000. cafe.daum.net/ drawingshow, drawingshow@gmail.com, 02-766-7848 Heart of the East and Todes Two shows in one, the first 30 minutes is an exciting performance of Korean traditional dance and song, including the fan dance and samulnori, culminating in an impressive coordinated drum show.

Then for the next hour and half an over two-dozen member dance team from Russia comes out and performs breathtaking numbers put together by renowned choreographer Alla Duhova. sheratonwalkerhill.co.kr/eng/ promotion/show_new_info.php, 02-455-5000 Miso Chongdong Theater, one of the best places to experience Korean culture, presents “Miso,” a story of one woman’s encounter with love told through traditional dance, percussion, and music. Located City Hall Station.

8 pm. W20,000 – W40,000. Refer to the English site for more info. http:// www.chongdong.com/chongdong_ english/index.asp, 02-7511-500 Nanta This kitchen percussion extravaganza is the non-verbal stage show that nearly everyone sees at least once.

Two Seoul locations and performances almost daily. Refer to the website for directions and performance details. W50,000 – W60,000. nanta.i-pmc.co.kr/en/index.asp, 02-739-8288

Pan Deok-su Kim, the producer of this performance, is the guy who brought us the creative clatter of Samulnori.

“Pan” is your chance to hear a unique combination of Korean folk songs, minstrel music, and percussion of all varieties. Located at the Gwanghwamun Art Hall. Weekdays at 7:30 pm, weekends at 4 pm, closed Mon and Tue. 90 min. W30,000 – W50,000. ghmarthall.co.kr, 02-722-3416

September 4th – November 4th The World Festival of National Theaters Ballets, plays, and dances by the national troupes of France, Italy, Russia, Brazil, and many other countries. All performances (except non-verbal ones) include English subtitles. Most performances held at the National Theater of Korea. Catch the shuttle bus at Dongguk Univ. St. (line 3), ex. 6. For info about events not mentioned in the calendar, please have a Korean friend help you browse the website. ntok.go.kr, 02-2280-4115 September 27th - October 4th Namsan International Folk Music Festival

Tourists on their way to go up Seoul Tower, shop at Myeongdong, or

September 30th – October 1st Rainbow The Culture Center of the Philippines brings Rainbow, a dance that illustrates the cultural and ethnic diversity of the Philippines. At the National Theater of Korea. Weekdays at 8 pm. 90 min. W20,000 – W100,000. ntok.go.kr, 02-2280-4115

SEOUL

Sa-Choom Meaning “dance when you are in love,” Sa-Choom is an exciting non-verbal dance performance telling the story of three friends’ coming of age. Tue – Fri 8 pm. Sat 4 pm and 7:30 pm. Sun 4 pm. W50,000. lovedance.co.kr/eng/01_sachoom/ sub01.html, mr4u@nate.com, 070-8249-3023

browse in Namdaemun Market may find themselves stumbling into this folk music festival. Events held at Namsan Park, Baekbeom Plaza, and Seoul Plaza include the International Folk Beauty Pageant, Folk Fashion Show, Folk Parade, Folk Music and Dance Festival, Folk Crafts Festival, and Korean Folk Competition. Folk music groups from Brazil, Nepal, Syria, the Philippines, and India justify the “international” part of the title. That’s all, folks! koreawave.org, 02-742-3797

October 1st – 2nd The Conditions of Balance: The Dance Choreographed by Yeon-su Jeong of the Post Ego Dance Company. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Bus Terminal St. (line 3), ex. 5. Thu 5 pm & 8 pm, Fri 4 pm. W30,000. sac.or.kr, 02-2263-4680 October 6th – 11th Seoul International Performance Festival Follow the blue line up to Nowon (line 4) for an “art paradise,” at least while the festival lasts. Art, music, dance, circus, mime, and magic are among of the events offered at Nowon Culture Street near Nowon St., ex. 2 or 4.

Keep an eye out for the street performers driving around in the “art car.” sipf.co.kr, 02-950-3114 October 8th – 11th The Magic Flute: The Opera Mozart’s opera performed by the Dortmund Theater from Germany.

Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Bus Terminal St. (line 3), ex. 5. Weekdays 7:30 pm, Sat 2:30 pm & 7:30 pm, Sun 4 pm. W30,000 – W310,000. sac.or.kr, 02-2003-7333

EDITOR’S PICK October 5th – 24th Seoul International Dance Festival SIDance offers Seoulites performances by top dance troupes from all around the world. Korean groups along with representatives from Israel, Switzerland, Slovenia, Greece, and other countries will take the stage at the Seoul Arts Center, Goyang Aram Nuri Arts Center in Ilsan, and other venues. It doesn’t get much more international than the dance exchange on Oct 22nd with Malaysia, Burkina Faso, the Congo, Kenya, and Korea going head to head. Tickets start at W20,000.

Prices depend upon performance. sidance.org, 02-3216-1185

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CALENDAR EDITOR’S PICK October 12th – 13th The New York Philharmonic in Korea

SEOUL

The Seoul Arts Center will soon host the New York Philharmonic, an ensemble established in 1842 and invariably mentioned as one of America’s “Big Five” orchestras. The programs for the two nights of performances are completely different, giving you every reason to attend both (provided you can afford the tickets). Oct 12th will feature Mendelssohn’s Violin Concerto in E Minor and Beethoven’s 7th Symphony, along with Expo by Magnus Lindberg, a piece specially commissioned by the Philharmonic, with guest violinist Ye-eun Choe. The program for Oct 13th includes Brahms’ Violin Concerto in D major and Mahler’s 1st Symphony, showcasing violinist Frank Peter Zimmerman. Alan Gilbert will conduct the orchestra both nights. W40,000 – W280,000. sac.or.kr, 02-6303-7700 October 9th – 10th Your Guide to Ballet With Un-gyu Jang as your guide, discover the literary and operatic origins of the ballets we love. Korean ability a plus. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Bus Terminal St. (line 3), ex. 5.

Fri 7:30 pm, Sat 3 pm. sac.or.kr, 02-587-6181 October 12th – 16th PAMS Choice

October 15th – 18th Turandot: The Opera

PAMS, as in the Performing Arts Market in Seoul, sponsors performances of fifteen works of drama, dance, and music selected as the best among those submitted.

Overseas productions are also planned. Venues include the National Theater and the Namsan Art Center. pams.or.kr, 02-745-3046

The San Carlo Theater of Naples presents Puccini’s opera. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Bus Terminal St. (line 3), ex. 5. 8 pm except Sun 5 pm.

W30,000 – W340,000. sac.or.kr, 1544-9373

October 13th – November 21st Seoul Performing Arts Festival

October 1st Seoul Philharmonic Orchestra: Virtuoso Series II

Seoul will be raining theater and dance for forty days and forty nights.

SPAM takes the theme of “analog & digilog” to highlight what the performing arts have been while suggesting what they may yet become. The forty performances of theater, dance, and stuff that isn’t classified so neatly are brought to Seoul by fifteen international groups and twenty-five local groups. Watch a Japanese dramatic reflection on Cyrano de Bergerac and move to the “digilog” cross-genre Australian 56 | 10 Magazine October 2009

dance piece The Age I’m In. See them at some of the biggest venues across Seoul including the Seoul Arts Center, the Daehangno Arts Theater, and the Sejong Center. Reserve your tickets in advance with help from the fully functional English site. spaf21.com, 02-3673-2561

Concerts

Rachmaninoff’s The Isle of the Dead, Sibelius’s Violin Concerto in D Minor, and Beethoven’s 5th Symphony.

Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Bus Terminal St. (line 3), ex. 5. 8 pm.

W10,000 – W50,000. sac.or.kr, 02-3700-6323

EDITOR’S PICK October 20th – 27th

October 6th Korean Chamber Orchestra Regular Performance Mozart’s Overture to the Marriage of Figaro and other pieces. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Bus Terminal St. (line 3), ex. 5. 8 pm. W10,000 – W100,000. sac.or.kr, 02-592-5728 October 7th Ju-yeong Baek Violin Recital Ju-yeong Baek performs pieces by Beethoven, Schubert, and others with piano accompaniment by Ignat Solzhenitsyn. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Bus Terminal St. (line 3), ex. 5.

8 pm. W30,000 – W50,000. sac.or.kr, 02-580-1300 October 9th – 11th Seoul International Jazz Festival

SEOUL

MAC Jazz Festival You may be thinking of mack daddies or mack trucks, but the MAC here is the Mapo Arts Center, which is hosting a week of tremendous jazz artists .

Originally, the Eddie Higgins quartet was to play on the 20th, but sadly group leader Higgins passed away a month prior to the performance. His presence will be missed, but the (other six) shows must go on.

Oct 21st: Woongsan. 8 pm. W33,000 – W55,000.

Oct 22nd: Winterplay. 8 pm. W33,000 – W55,000.

Oct 23rd: European Jazz Trio. 8 pm. W44,000 – W77,000.

Oct 24th: 100 Golden Fingers. 6 pm. W33,000 – W55,000.

Oct 25th: Pablo Ziegler Trio. 6 pm. W44,000 – W77,000.

Oct 27th: Tommy Emmanuel. 7:30 pm. W35,000 – W55,000. mapoartcenter.or.kr, 02-3274-8600 October 10th Korean Live Music Festival Instead of wasting one of the last warm Saturdays this year inside, join the crowd at the Nanji Area of the Han River Park for a full day of performances with thirty bands and singers. World Cup Stadium St. (line 6), ex. 1. 10 am – 8 pm. mapoartcenter.or.kr, 02-3274-8600 Seoul Philharmonic Orchestra: New Wave Series III Beethoven’s 7th Symphony and more.

Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Bus Terminal St. (line 3), ex. 5. 8 pm.

W10,000 – W50,000. sac.or.kr, 02-3700-6323 October 11th Isao Sasaki on Tour Japanese new age pianist and composer. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Bus Terminal St. (line 3), ex. 5.

8 pm. W33,000 – W99,000. sac.or.kr, 02-580-1300 October 16th – 17th Paris Match in Korea Not to be confused with Paris Hilton, this is the Japanese three member band. Baegam Art Hall. Samsung St. (line 2), ex. 8. Fri 8 pm, Sat 6 pm.

W55,000. baekamhall.com, 02-782-5573

In its first year, the Seoul International Jazz Festival offers jazz fans a program of performers including Ronn Branton, James Moody, and Woongsan. Meanwhile, hopeful jazz musicians can test their skills in the amateur competition held at the same time. Concerts at Seoul Science Park and Nakseongdae Park (near Nakseongdae St., line 2). sijazz.org, 070-7663-0881

October 20th – 21st Beyonce in Concert Only two years after her first visit to Korea, Beyonce Knowles returns on her “I Am Beyonce” world tour.

Beyonce rose to popularity as the lead singer of Destiny’s Child, and she hasn’t missed a beat since she went solo, releasing a string of hit singles

10 Magazine October 2009 | 57

CALENDAR and even her own fashion line.

Dozens of performers will enhance Beyonce’s unique stage presence for another incredible concert in Seoul.

Gymnastics Stadium at Olympic Park. Olympic Park Stadium (line 5), ex. 3. 8:30 pm. W80,000 – W160,000. ticket.yes24.com, 1544-6399

SEOUL

October 24th – 25th The Seoul Grand Mint Festival Korean entertainment brand Mint Paper, along with the Korean government, sponsor this massive festival dedicated to the Korean bands that you don’t hear on the radio. It’s not just girl groups or rock bands here (unlike, say, Pentaport), with room for solo artists and instrumental groups as well. Like any good Mint Paper production, there’s more to do than wave lighters (or cell phones) with a food zone, entertainment zone, beauty zone, and “slow life” zone (for napping and sunbathing, apparently). Olympic Park, Olympic Park St. (line 5), ex. 3.

Tickets are W55,000 per day and W88,000 for both days. grandmintfestival.com, 1588-7890 October 26th Dong-seok Gang’s Hope Concert The Seoul Classical Players with violinist Dong-seok Gang perform the polonaise from Eugene Onegin and other pieces by Tchaikovsky. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Bus Terminal St. (line 3), ex. 5. 8 pm.

W20,000 – W70,000. sac.or.kr, 02-720-3933

58 | 10 Magazine October 2009

October 27th Korean International Music Festival The KBS Symphony Orchestra with special Ukrainian violinist Valeriy Sokolov perform pieces by Glinka, Beethoven, and Shostakovich. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Bus Terminal St. (line 3), ex. 5. 8 pm. W10,000 – W100,000. sac.or.kr, 02-720-3933 October 29th Seoul Gugak Stringed Ensemble Regular Performance With Asia, Voice of the Soul, this ensemble presents a fusion of Asian cultures and musical traditions through gugak (Korean traditional music). Sejong Center, Gwanghwamun St. (line 5), ex. 8. 7:30 pm. W10,000 – W50,000. sejongpac. or.kr, 02-399-1721 October 31st International Bach Festival

With German conductor Helmuth Rilling. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Bus Terminal St. (line 3), ex. 5. 8 pm.

W40,000 – W120,000. sac.or.kr, 02-2220-1512 Alexander Melnikov: Piano Recital Performing Beethoven’s Sonatas 101, 109, 110, and 111. Sejong Center, Gwanghwamun St. (line 5), ex. 8. 7

pm. W20,000 – W70,000. sejongpac. or.kr, 02-888-2698

Film Movie Theaters with English Subtitles for Korean Films (Sponsored by the Seoul Metropolitan Government) Cinus at Myeong-dong Just outside Myeong-dong Station exit #6

Family & Community Through October 4th Arnie Kolodner in Magical School for Wizards Kids’ wizard Arnie Kolodner and friends will delight your children with this performance which is half magic show and half theater. Baekam Art Hall. 70 min. Tue and Wed at 7 pm, Thu and Fri at 11 am and 7 pm, Sat and Sun at 11 am, 2 pm, and 4:30 pm.

Dark Mondays. W30,000 – W40,000.

Samseong St. (line 2), ex. 8. baekamhall.com, 02-559-1333 October 6th – 11th Eunpyeong Pabal Festival This festival celebrates an early postal service called “pabal” which was used to transmit important government documents during the Joseon Dynasty. Events include a concert (Oct 7th) and a walking contest (Oct 11th). Various locations in Eunpyeonggu near Gupabal St. (line 3). eunpyeong.seoul.kr, 02-350-1114 October 9th – 11th Seoul Book Festival

October 15th – 17th Jeongdong Festival At Jeongdong-gil in the heart of Seoul between Seodaemun St. (line 5) and City Hall St. (line 1 and 2). jungdong.khan.co.kr, 02-3701-1606

SEOUL

Cinus at Gangnam Just outside Gangnam Station exit # 5 cinus.co.kr/Plus/english_service.asp 1544-0070

October 10th Seoul Writer’s Workshop 2009 Anthology Launch Come by to be among the first to purchase your copy. Profits from book sales go to the Korea Sexual Violence Relief Center and MoonBears.org. Berlin in Itaewon. 1 pm - 5 pm. W10,000. After party at Tony’s Aussie Bar and Bistro, also Itaewon. 8pm til late. seoulwriters@ gmail.com, 010-2891-7170

October 25th Cheongryong Culture Festival A reenactment of a religious rite dating back to the Joseon dynasty along with a parade and other activities. Yongdu Elementary School, Sinseoldong St. (line 1), ex. 4. ddm.go.kr, 02-2127-5000

Religious Services Buddhist

Seoul International Zen Center Sunday Meditation 1 pm, “Dharma Talk” 3 pm, 02-900-4326.

Vairocana International Buddhist Meditation Center “Dharma meeting meditation” Sunday 3 pm, 02-735-5347 Catholic

Catholics in South Korea Facebook Group, Annamarie at intellectbellezza@gmail.com Hyewha-dong Catholic Church Sunday 1:30 pm, 02-764-0221 (press 6) Myeong-dong Catholic Cathedral Sunday 9 am, 02-774-3890 (press 0) Seongbuk-dong Catholic Church Sunday 9:30 am, 02-3673-4251 Yoksam-dong Church Sunday 9:30 am, 02-553-0801 Hannam International Church Sunday 11 am English Sunday 11:15 am Italian Sunday 12:15 pm Spanish Sunday 6 pm French 02-793-2070

October 9th, which is Hangeul Day, and October 11th, which is Book Day, make the perfect bookends for the Seoul Book Festival. The exhibits, lectures, games, and art planned for the three day festival are designed to give hope through the joy of reading.

Get a peak of the Seoul Mayor, Se-hun Oh, reading to visitors on the lawn behind the Seoul History Museum. Gyeonghuigung Palace near Gwanghwamun St. (line 5), ex. 7.

10 am – 6 pm. bookfestival.co.kr, 02-6000-8168

Geumchon 3rd Sunday 5 pm 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Dongducheon 2nd Sunday 4:30 pm 4th Sunday 4:30 pm 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Bomun 2nd Sunday 11:00 am 4th Sunday 11:00 am 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Jinjob 1st Sunday 3:00 pm 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 10 Magazine October 2009 | 59

CALENDAR Sung-dong Social Welfare Center 1st, 3rd Sunday 11 am Tagalog 02-765-0870 Chunma Sunday 3 pm Tagalog, 02-765-0870 Salesio Labor Center (Daelim 1 dong) Sunday 11:30 am Tagalog 02-765-0870 Philippine Center Monday ~ Saturday 8:30 pm Tagalog 02-765-0870

SEOUL

Pastral Center for Labor Sunday 1:30 pm English Sunday 12:30 pm Vietnamese last Sunday 3:00 pm Thai 02-924-2721 Protestant

Somang Presbyterian Church Sunday 1:30 pm, 02-512-9191 Seoul Union Church Sunday 9:30 am, 02-333-7393 Yongsan Baptist Church Sunday 11 am & 6 pm, 02-796-0284 Yeouido Full Gospel Church Sunday 10:30 am for teenagers Sunday 10:45 am for children Sunday 5:00 pm for adult Friday 9:00 pm for youth 02-782-4851 Onnuri Church Sunday 4 pm 02-793-9686 Myungsung Presbyterian Church Sunday 1:20 pm, 02-440-9000 Gwanglim Church Sunday 1:30 pm, 02-2056-5732 Gumnan Church Sunday 11:30 am, 02-490-7000

Islam

Seoul Central Masjid Friday 1:00 pm, 02-794-7307

Education & Conference Ongoing Suseonjae Life Skills Course for Teenagers Beginning on October 11th and continuing for ten weeks, this course combines meditation and danjeon (deep) breathing along with life skills such as coping with stress, setting goals, communicating effectively, and having a better attitude which are crucial for teens to develop.

Dongseon-dong. W350,000 for the ten Sunday classes. 10:30 am – 12:30 am. Contact Mariejo. suseonjae. wellbeingschool@gmail.com, 019-201-5958 September 29th – November 8th Korea Celebrates 100 Years of Museums On the 1st of November, 1909, the last Korean emperor Sunjong established Korea’s first museum as he urged his people to “share delight together.” In the intervening 100 years, over 600 museums and art galleries have opened up across the country, but it can all be traced back to the significant words of Emperor Sunjong, which are commemorated in this special exhibit. museum.go.kr, 02-2077-9000

Sport & Fitness Ongoing Suseonjae Meditation and Deep Breathing Classes

EDITOR’S PICK October 23rd – 25th Kimchi Love Festival

Love it or not, nearly everyone should enjoy some part of this fermented festival. Stealing a page from Dickens’ A Christmas Carol, the festival is divided into the themes of kimchi past, kimchi present, and kimchi future. No Scrooges in sight, but there will be a platoon of assistant chefs carrying delicacy laden tables in the royal table parade before a reenactment of a royal banquet. The present of kimchi includes a kimchi cook off, a demonstration of how to make kimchi, and free classes for kids and adults. Peek into the future of the food with the Kimchi Design House, which cooks up ways for kimchi to become a world luxury food (Sun 4 pm – 6 pm). Gyeonghuigung Palace and the Seoul Museum of History, Gwanghwamun St. (line 5), ex. 7. kimchifestival.org 60 | 10 Magazine October 2009

Reconnect with yourself while achieving physical and mental balance through gentle Oriental style body stretching and meditation with danjeon (deep-core) breathing.

Suseonjae staff will go to a venue of your choice for a 90 minute weekly Seon meditation class. Minimum of four adults at W50, 000 per person per month. Contact Mariejo. jihye@ suseonjae.org, 019-201-5958 Walks, Runs and Marathons

November 15th Sports Seoul Marathon 5k, 10k, half and full at the Sangam World Cup Park Peace Plaza, to begin at 9 am. W25,000 for 5k, W35,000 for 10k and half and W40,000 for full. Sign up by October 30th. marathon.sportsseoul.com, 02-477-0357 K-League Soccer

October 17th FC Seoul vs Busan I’Park at Seoul World Cup Stadium at 5 pm

Dine & Drink October 15th – 17th Han River Mapo Ferry Salted Shrimp Festival There will be salted shrimp a-plenty, including a local products market and even a salted shrimp auction, but this festival is much more than that.

Check out the traditional dances and other performances on the small stage, make your own kimchi, and see the fireworks show at the concluding ceremony. At the Peace Plaza in the World Cup Park. mapofestival.jrdesign.kr, 02-312-1100 October 29th – November 1st The Seoul International Bakery Fair

Toque An eclectic menu reflecting the many foreign influences on American fare. 02-794-3834 Austrian

Chef Meili The most authentic deli and restaurant in Korea personally run by Chef Meili himself.

02-797-3820 Brazillian

Copacabana Home-style Brazilian cooking, including coxinnha, pastels, Brazilian beef stroganoff and lasagna along with the traditional Brazilian cocktail Caipirinha. 02-796-1660

SEOUL

November 7th Business Lovers Marathon 5k, 10k and half at the Sangam World Cup Park Peace Plaza, to begin at 9 am. W20,000 for all courses. Sign up

by October 16th. giuplovemarathon.com, 02-3487-1066.

Suji’s Great American fare in a New York-style bistro atmosphere.

02-797-3698

Bulgarian

Zelen The open kitchen shows off the Bulgarian chefs preparing authentic Bulgarian cuisine.

02-749-0600 French

La Cigale Monmartre The first and still one of the best terraces in Itaewon, La Cigale specializes in mussels along with their full French menu. 02-796-1244 Le Saint-Ex French chefs prepare daily specials paired with specially chosen French wines. 02-795-2465 Italian

Antonio’s Request a tune from Antonio on the piano while enjoying his fabulous Italian fare. 02-793-6144 Sortino’s Cucina Classic Italian tratoria cuisine in a comfortable, homey atmosphere. 02-797-0488 Noxa Lounge Noksapung’s answer to N.Y’s Sex and the City! Great home style Italian cuisine with late night cocktail lounge. 02-790-0776 Villa Sortino’s An incredible Tuscan Villa interior matches perfectly with some delicately prepared Italian flavors. 02-553-9000 Ola Mario This Italian import boasts a truly luxurious atmosphere to go with its authentic cuisine.

02-793-9003 Mexican

Imagine the fragrance of a thousand rising loaves of bread. At SIBA 2009, find the tools you need, the ingredients you need, and the dough you knead to make truly heavenly bread. 10 am – 4 pm. W7,000. Roll on into the nice English site. COEX near Samseong St. (line 2), ex. 6. sibaexpo.com, 02-6000-1076 International Restaurants American

Chili King Great burgers, chili and served up by owner Kevin Cyr. 02-795-1303

Amigos Quality Mexican food from an international chain with frequent live music and events. 02-795-9711 Pancho’s Plenty of Mexican fare in a newly renovated, comfortable atmosphere. 02-792-4767 On the Border The #1 American chain hits that craving for fajitas, chimichangas, tacos, burritos, enchiladas and even margaritas. See ad for free margarita! ontheborder.co.kr, 10 Magazine October 2009 | 61

CALENDAR Times Square: 02-2638-2000 Sinchon: 02-324-0682, COEX: 02-565-0682 Taco Amigo Authentic Mexican fast food served up at very reasonable prices. 02-749-5253 Middle Eastern

Istanbul Grab a kebab, falafel or fish & chips on your way home in Noksapyung’s cheap eats street.

02-796-0271

SEOUL

Marakech Nights Terrific Middle Eastern cuisine from Moroccan chef Rhiti Mostaffa. 02-795-9441 Petra Authentic, quality Middle Eastern food at very reasonable prices. 02-790-4433 Thai

Buddha’s Belly A lounge atmosphere with full bar and cocktails along with great authentic Thai food.

02-796-9330

October 31st Halloween Party at BricX Dress up and get down at the BricX costume party with great prizes like scuba-diving voucher (W350,000), champagne, (W120,000), and more.

Hey, that guy dressed up like a DJ isn’t in costume! Hongdae and Itaewon. 3141-5571 Dr. Lektroluv Halloween Party at M2 Join the Hongdae college crowd for Dr. Lektroluv, the DJ whose green exterior hides the electro-wizard within. At M2, enjoy fresh electronic beats just like the doctor ordered. www.myspace.com/drlektroluv, 02-3143-7573 Live Music

Eat Me Thai fusion dining and lounge, late night kitchen in Itaewon.

Relax in the intimate yet casual dining area and outside patio. Sophisticated atmosphere is sure to please.

070-7624-3149

All That Jazz The Itaewon favorite when you’ve got the itch for some smooth jazz, typically with a guitar emphasis. 02-795-5701

My Thai Thai food in a comfortable atmosphere with great outdoor seating. 02-794-8090

Cheonnyeondongando (천연동안도) Diverse jazz music in the northeastern Daehangro area. chunnyun.com, 02-743-5555

Thai Orchid The original Itaewon Thai restaurant boasts a luxurious purple interior with plenty of Thai staff. 02-517-1135 Thai Garden Terrific cuisine made by Thai chefs served in a Thai palace-like interior. 02-792-8836

Nightlife October 2nd Rose Party at BricX Every first Friday is Rose Party, which is basically an excuse for the club to bust out the rose décor and have a rose queen contest, with prizes including meal vouchers, champagne, and more. Live DJ plus a free cocktail for all ladies between midnight at 12:30 am. Hongdae and Itaewon.

3141-5571 October 9th Martin Solveig at Heaven It all started when he got his first turntable set for his 13th birthday.

Since then this French house DJ has been on top of his game, signing with Defected Records and getting a radio gig. How many other DJs do you know who sing their own music?

W30,000 general, W40,000 for after club hours. Near Yeoksam St. clubheaven.co.kr, 02-3444-4997 October 30th 5th Annual RMT Acoustic Showdown - Day 1 Join the Rocky Mountain Tavern as they host their 5th Annual Acoustic 62 | 10 Magazine October 2009

Showdown, a display of some of the best amateur musicians Korea has to offer. The whole thing kicks off on the 30th and takes place on four consecutive Friday nights, with the finals scheduled for November 20th. rockymountaintavern.com, 010-5775-2327

Club Palm Great jazz in a small, cozy atmosphere near the northwestern area of Hongik University front gate. clubpalm.co.kr, 02-336-9016 Club Evans Also near the Hongik front gate, you’ll get terrific jazz for the cost of a drink. clubevans.com, 02-337-8361 Once in a Blue Moon The classic south-of-the-river live jazz venue in the heart of Apgujeong/Cheongdam with a very classy and sophisticated atmosphere. No cover. onceinabluemoon.co.kr, 02-549-5490 Jammers Hosting bands exhibiting the slightly harder side of Korean alternative music. jammers.co.kr, 02- 325-3914 Just Blues Tucked away in an Apgujeong back alley they play classic rock covers from the likes of Eric Clapton and Jimi Hendrix. justblues.co.kr, 02-542-4788 SoundHolic Indie/alternatve Korean bands. cafe.daum.net/SoundHolic, 02-3142-4203 Clubs

Answer This luxury dance club located in Cheongdam-dong features international DJs, live P.A. and performers spanning many subgenres of electronic music. Spacious

Foodie Finds and luxurious décor. 7 pm – 6 am.

W30,000 (excluding special events). 강남구 청담동 125-16 Cheongdamdong Gangnam-gu. clubanswer.co.kr, 548-7109

(SeonSaeng) Words and shots by Joe McPherson

Blue Spirit Join Hongdae’s long lasting club famed for supporting local DJs and guest international artists. 10:00 pm - 4:00 am.

010-8671-4056

SEOUL

Eden Meet Seoul’s newest mega club with hanging Funktion One speakers and frequent bookings with top striking international DJs. Famous for model nights and stunning crowds. Hours: Mon – Thurs 7 pm – 4 am, Fri – Sat 8 pm – 6 am. 강남구 역삼동 602 Yeoksam-dong Gangnam-gu Ritz Carlton Hotel. eden-club.co.kr, 010-9913-3919 Elec A two floor small but chic lounge and club that generally fills up after 3 am and keeps going until 10 am in the morning or later for all the die-hard dancers and music fans. Cheongdam-dong. Weekdays 9 pm – 6 am, weekends 9 pm – 10 am. No cover. club.cyworld.com/ eleclounge, 02-6326-1320 Function Itaewon’s first boutique club hidden in the fancy Macaroni Market restaurant. 용산구 한남1동 737-50 한남 빌딩 2층. 2nd floor of Macaroni Market in Itaewon.

02-749-9181 Heaven The newest member of Seoul’s club scene combines top-notch technology, including the NEXO sound system and Korea’s only hologram show, with divine DJs to create an unearthly dance floor rippling with house and electro beats. October 9th: Martin Solveig.

W30,000 general, W40,000 for after club hours. Near Yeoksam St. clubheaven.co.kr, 02-3444-4997 Hive Discover a space of new possibilities, with art shows, live music, DJs, classes, and other events. 10 pm – 4 am. 137-8 용산구 이태원동 137-8 (Basement 1) Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. thehiveuniverse.blogspot.com, 010-3994-6694 Joker Red An old faithful venue playing minimal, techno, trance and other underground genres of electronic music, Joker Red sets the stage for those who dare to be different. Hongdae. Fri and Sat 9 pm – 5 am. W10,000 won includes free drink. jokerred.co.kr, 019-345-7122 M2 Where college students from all corners of Seoul gather to occupy the three large bars that wrap around a large dance floor and split-level dancing stages. Sun – Thu 8 pm – 4 am, Fri and Sat 7:30 pm – 6 am. W10,000 – W15,000 cover. 마 포구 서교동 367-11 Seokyo-dong Mapo-gu. ohoo.net/m2, 02-3143-7573

T

he best food exists in places where a journey is required. That’s why some of the best restaurants in Korea are on dirt roads or mountains. There’s no dirt road at Smith (SeonSaeng), and the climb is only-hill sized.

You could almost say it’s a Japanese izakaya, yet it’s anything but traditional. Let’s say it’s a Japanese hipster bistro. The ceilings are high to accommodate a loft, and the walls are stark naked cinder block, making Smith (SeonSaeng) more at home as an artsy bongo-playing poetry basement in Hongdae than an isolated neighborhood bar. Adding to the self-inflicted irony hangs a gargantuan chandelier that looks borrowed from a production of “Phantom of the Opera.”

All this combines to concoct a magical atmosphere to enhance the spells induced by the booze and vittles. Smith (SeonSaeng) carries an array of Japanese sake and sochu. The sochu is similar to Korea’s Andong soju, served on the rocks with a tray of lemon slices. It has a strong ricey kick that is smooth and refreshing. The lemon produces a subtle twang that lends it a sort of gin quality.

The style is contemporary Japanese. You won’t find the greasy scrambled “Japanese” dishes squeeze bottled with cloyingly sweet brown gunk and pickled onions that are so common in Koreanized izakaya. The food is refined yet feels homemade. You can even request “omakase,” meaning the chef takes care of you.

The beef tataki(top left) is barely seared and sliced shabu-shabu thin. Topped with micro-sliced green onions and drizzled with a light soy sauce, the diner wraps chunks of fresh wasabi and ground radish in each blushing red beef sliver. The result is

a miniature Sunday roast with horseradish.

Another highlight is the grilled mero (top right), the monstrously ugly fish with the meltin-your-mouth buttery flesh that you suck down with an equally buttery sake. It’s so buttery you could top your popcorn with it. And if you’re good, you may get their shoestring fries, amazingly crisp, light, airy potatoes that never succumb to sogginess.

If you can handle having one of the best foods you ever put in your mouth, and only if you’re ready, they serve a braised pork belly casserole (bottom left) that is so soft you can swipe right through it with one chopstick like a razor through whipped cream. Deeply imbued with the trademark Japanese flavors of soy and mirin, this has to be the comfort food from a past life. It’s homey, warming and satisfying and is the perfect balance for a crisp Asahi Dry. Combine it with the soothing atmosphere and the gorgeous people who populate the tables, Smith (SongSaeng) provides a great quiet evening to spend with friends.

English, Korean and Japanese menu Permitted There are a few options.

Accessible W 15,000-30,000 per dish Modern ambience, quiet, refined modern Japanese cuisine Inconvenient location, expensive.

31 Nonhyun-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul.

02-3446-0990 10 Magazine October 2009 | 63

CALENDAR Mass The large dance floor, energetic and fashionable crowd, and prime location in central Gangnam make this dance club for the “masses” a top electronic club in southern Seoul. 9 pm – 6 am. Sun – Thu W15,000 (excluding special events), Fri and Sat W20,000. clubmass.net, 02-599-3165 Miro Be ready for a long night (or morning) at a stomping after-hours club with lounge, trance and psytrance. Fri and Sat 11 pm – 8 am.

Apgujeong near Seolleung St. (line 2).

02-544-9930

SEOUL

Naked Naked takes Seoul by surprise by leading the afterhours dance club scene into the early hours of the weekend mornings. 10 pm – 8 am. W15,000 before 1 am, W20,000 after. 010-5417-4417 Pulse Come to Pulse to drink and dance in a chilled-out atmosphere boasting all genres of electronic music with a massive sound system pumping out danceable tunes until sunrise. Drink specials every day.

Itaewon. Everyday 8 pm – 7 am. Fri

Foodie Finds

W10,000, Sat W15,000. 02-7926662 Qvo Hongdae’s long-standing hip hop and R & B club. Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun 8 pm – 4 am and Wed, Fri, Sat 8 pm – 6:30 am. W10,000 W15,000. 121-210 Ohoo B/D 367-1 Seogyo Dong. clubqvo.co.kr, 02-3148-7574 Vera Come for a fun night of funky house, electro-house, trance, and psychedelic. 10 pm – 6 am. 마포구 서교동 356-1 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu. 02-338-0957 Via Combines local DJs and VJs with the full spectrum of electronic dance music and then adds a twist of western party flair. Hongdae.

011-257-5154 Volume A true “music lovers” club, Volume is equipped with a top of the line Funktion One sound system, enormous LED screens, Sollinger lasers, and a touch sensitive Ibar.

International DJs or costume night parties every weekend. Fri and Sat 9 pm - 6 am. W15,000 - W30,000 (except for special events, please check website). Itaewon in the basement of the Crown Hotel. clubvolume.com, 1544-2635 Bars/Lounges/Pubs

3 Alley Pub Rub shoulders with long-term Seoul expats and try your hands at darts or pool in this comfortable foreigner-owned pub.

116-15 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu.

3alleypub.com, 02-749-3336

Classic Corned Beef and Pastrami Owner Leo brings the classic local New York deli with a refreshingly limited menu, meaning that the ingredients are good quality. Try the housemade ham, corned beef and pastrami. It’s the real stuff without the unhealthy nitrates you find in industrial “pink” corned beef. The Reuben and lox bagels are classics, bringing back memories and creating new ones. Sandwiches come with a simple balsamic vinegar dressed salad. Leo also whips up a daily soup.

The only drawback is that there isn’t a Leo’s Deli in every neighborhood. It’s on the growing restaurant strip down from Noksapyeong Station. Take a right after Istanbul. 02-749-1210 64 | 10 Magazine October 2009

B1 B1 is one of the most hopping bars in Itaewon on any given night, with guest DJs and a good vibe that has most people up out of their seats dancing before the night is over. Itaewon. 7 pm - 3 am.

02-749-6164 Bar Rouge Luxurious wine and tapas bar in the basement of the JW Marriot. Great unlimited drink specials Tue - Thu during happy hour (6 pm - 9 pm). Tue: beer & whiskey night, W19,000++. Wed: cocktail night, W19,000++. Thu: wine & buffet night, W50,000++. Fri: ladies night. 02-6282-6763 Berlin Café Lounge Combination restaurant, cafe & lounge, boasting a varied menu, fine selection of wines and all types of music from smooth and soulful to house and techno. Noksapyeong St. (line 6). 용 산구 이태원동 457-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. awakeinseoul@gmail.com, 02-749-0903 Bliss With one of the best patios in Itaewon, this new restaurant lounge has quickly become a crowd favorite. Fresh beats played by DJ Shine and a reasonably priced food and drink menu, are the reasons why you need to get there early.

Itaewon. 4pm – 4am. 02-798-1125

BricX Itaewon BricX Earth & Ocean combines an exotic lounge and dance floor of Moulin Rouge style with hookah, 120 different kinds of martinis and shots and local Live DJs on weekends. Thursdays is Ladies night. 7pm-3am weekdays, 7 pm – 5 am weekends. Behind Hamilton hotel. 용산구 한남동 91-5 Itaewon-dong Yongsan-gu Bricx.com. 02-795-5572

Gallery Cafe Dahwa Half art gallery and half restaurant lounge, Dahwa lets you enjoy the private collection of Andy Warhol upstairs and then go downstairs for excellent pasta and a glass of wine. Cheongdam-dong.

02-549-5464 Ghetto Vox The Hive’s sister venue, this is Itaewon’s first and only art and music space. 용산구 이태원동 132-5 (3rd floor) Itaewon-dong, Yongsangu. ghettovox.com, 010-3370-2979 Jane’s Groove Offering unique drinks and various kinds of snacks, this relatively new bar in Hongdae is a good place for groups and walk-ins looking to relax over drinks.

Weekdays 7:30 pm – 3 am, weekends 7:30 pm – 4 am, closed Mondays. janesgroove@gmail.com, 02-336-1664 New York Minute Get a taste of the Big Apple in Itaewon, plus weekly specials on tequila shots, bottled import beers, whiskey, appetizers, and more. Weekdays 6 pm – 3 am, weekends 6 pm – 4 am.

011-864-5091 Mike’s Cabin Western bar with a casual atmosphere that holds various special events with interactive games, DJs, dancers, and charity causes on special occasions.

Sinchon near the Yonsei front gate.

02-325-7808 Monghawn Cozy atmosphere upstairs, artistic ambiance underground, Monghwan welcomes you with nice décor, live art and music events, and its signature cocktail soju. Sincheon near Jamsil. club.cyworld.com/monghwan, 02-325-6218 Monkey Beach Thailand is just a subway ride away if you head to Monkey Beach in the heart of Apgujeong. This popular Thai-style bar serves its drinks in buckets and has live fire shows and competitions.

7:30 pm – 5 am. 02-548-7930 Mix Lounge A small and trendy bar that looks more like a white greenhouse than an actual bar serves up a killer mojito along with lychee martinis and cold beer.

Garosugil. 7 pm – 3 am.

02-546-4090

Rocky Mountain Tavern Canadians feel right at home with all the hockey jerseys hanging on the walls, great live music and events, along with some of the best buffalo wings in Korea. rockeymountaintavern.com, 010-5775-2327

SEOUL

Coffee Bar K A Japanese franchise, it’s hard to argue that they may have the best bartenders in town.

Cocktails cost W13,000 to W25,000.

Mon – Sat 6 pm - 2 am.

Cheongdam-dong. 02-516-1970

Platoon Kunsthalle Showcases underground artists, studio residencies and a fine selection of cutting-edge stage performances to introduce the energetic potential of subculture. 강남구 논현동 97-22 Gangnam-gu, Nonhyeon-dong. kunsthalle.com, 02-3447-1191

Scrooge Pub/Dicken’s Lounge A great little sports bar with pool, darts, delicious food and plenty of English speaking staff. Itaewon.

02-797-8201 Serein A secret among Korean girls, this is one of the best brunch spots in Garosugil in Apgujeong. In the evenings, enjoy their small hidden patio with a nice steak or glass of champagne. 7 pm – 4 am.

02-515-9797 Seventy Four A beautiful and popular date spot featuring a menu with exotic drinks such as cheese martinis, banana mojitos and cuba libres. Cheongdam-dong. 7 pm – 4 am. 02-542-7412 Tony’s Aussie Shop Authentic Australian food and beer. Every Wednesday: Open Mic Night at Tony’s with poets, fiction writers, comics, and a singer-songwriter or two. 8 pm – 11 pm.용산구 이태원1동 455-35 Itaewon-dong Yongsan-gu. writers.meetup.com/779, 010-460-54326 Tutti Matti This multi-level former gallery has been transformed into one of Seoul’s most luxurious resto-lounges with an Italian chef in the kitchen along with Italian and Scottish staff on the floor and behind the bar. 강남구 신사동 532-6 Shinsa-dong Gangnam-gu. winnerkidd@hotmail.com, 02-511-0488 Watts on Tap Check out the parties, language exchange nights for a variety of languages, and open mike and live music nights. 6 pm – 2 am.

Shinchon.

52-84 3F Changcheon-dong. club.cyworld.nate.com/wattsontap, 3142-8439 Wolfhound Terrific Irish/British classic food in a true Irish Pub atmosphere, including shepherd’s pie, toad in a hole, fish n’ chips, bangers n’ mash along with Guinness and Kilkenny on draft. wolfhoundpub.com, 02-749-7971 Woobar (W Hotel) Seoul’s trendiest hotel also boasts one of its trendiest bars, with professional bartenders who really know how to make a drink.

02-2022-0333

10 Magazine October 2009 | 65

CALENDAR Art Through October 4th New Acquisitions on Display The National Museum of Contemporary Art is currently displaying more than 200 pieces collected during 2008. The artwork includes paintings, sculptures, handicrafts, both from Korea and abroad. Seoul Grand Park St. (line 4), ex. 2. Weekdays 10 am – 6 pm.

Weekends 10 am – 9 pm. Closed Mondays. www.moca.go.kr, 02-2188-6114

GYEONGGI

Fashion Ethics: Dress Nice The past five years have seen the fashion world become more sensitive to eco-friendly products, organic farming, and sustained development, a trend which is reflected in the pieces on display in this exhibit. Gyeonggi Museum of Modern Art in Ansan near Gojan St. (line 4). Everyday from 10 am – 7 pm. No charge. gma.or.kr, 031-481-7007 Exposition of Mythology: Electronic Technology Work by influential Korean artists Nam-june Paik and twenty-one others exploring the themes of technology, mythology, and religion at the Nam June Paik Art Center in Yongin. Great English site. Sun – Thu 10 am – 7 pm, Fri & Sat 10 am – 9 pm. Free. njp.kr, 031-201-8522 Through October 25th Incheon Digital Arts Festival INDAF showcases not only the latest developments in the digital arts but also the future of Incheon itself. The exhibition focuses on the theme of “Vistas,” future cityscapes that will allow a happier, more satisfying life.

Other events include the International Digital Art Conference and the Digital Art Contest. Located in Songdo in Incheon (call for directions). 9:30 am – 10 pm. W15,000 for adults, W11,000 for teens, W8,000 for children. indaf. org, 032-858-7332 October 9th - 12th Moran Folk Craft National Competition

Talented Korean folk artists spent countless hours laboring over their work, and now all you’ve got to do is enjoy it. Awards for the craft competition will be announced at 2 pm on Friday with the exhibition taking place over the next three days.

The Seongnam Folk Craft Pavilion in Seongnam (often called Bundang) is a short drive from Sanseong St. (line 8), ex. 1. snf.or.kr, 031-749-7976 October 28th - November 5th Korean and Japanese Painting 66 | 10 Magazine October 2009

Exhibit Seongnam Arts Center near exit 1 of Imae St. (yellow Bundang line). 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Monday. Free. snart. or.kr, 031-783-8000

Theater & Dance October 9th - 10th The Story of Notre Dame de Paris: The Musical

Korea high school students don’t drive, but then again John Travolta doesn’t speak Korean. Icheon Art Hall, southeast of Seoul. Fri 7:30 pm, Sat 3 pm & 7 pm, Sun 3 pm. 150 min.

W30,000 – W50,000. artic.or.kr, 031-644-2100 October 24th - 25th The Three Musketeers: The Musical

Sun 3 pm. W33,000 – W110,000. snart.or.kr, 031-783-8000 Through October 31st Namsadang Traditional Performance During the Joseon Dynasty, there were groups of itinerant performers called Namsadang, and now they’re back for weekly performances at the outdoor stage of the Namsadang Learning Center (except Chuseok, Oct 2nd).

Each Saturday from 3 pm – 4 pm and from 6:30 pm – 8 pm a Namsadang troupe performs farm music, dish spinning, tight-rope dancing, and other parts of the traditional repertoire. In Anseong, south of Seoul. namsadangnori.org/index.htm, 031-678-2518

Concerts October 17th Mi-ja Lee in Concert

Gwacheon Citizen Center. W20,000 – W25,000. Fri 8 pm & 10 pm. Sat 4 pm. 70 min. gccs.or.kr, 02-3427-1358 October 16th - 18th L’Elisir d’Amore: The Opera

In Korean, but you won’t need subtitles for the swordplay. Goyang Oulim Nuri Arts Center in Goyang.

Wondang St. (line 3), ex. 4. Sat 3 pm & 7 pm, Sun 2 pm & 6 pm. 120 min.

W30,000 – W90,000. artgy.or.kr, 1577-7766 October 28th - 31st Romeo and Juliet: The Opera If arias are more your thing than aerials, go with the operatic R&J instead of the dance version. The Bucheon Philharmonic Orchestra and some great vocal talent tackle Charles Gounod’s rendition of the timeless tale. Bucheon Citizen Center.

Jungdong St. (line 1), ex. 2. Weekdays 7:30 pm, Sat 4 pm. W20,000 – W80,000. bcf. or.kr, 032-320-6300

Meaning “The Elixir of Love,” this opera is one of Gaetano Donizetti’s most famous works. Goyang Aram Nuri Arts Center in Goyang.

Jeongbalsan St. (line 3), ex. 3. Fri 8 pm, Sat 7 pm, Sun 2 pm. W10,000 – W70,000. artgy.or.kr, 1577-7766 October 16th - 17th Seong-yong Kim Dance Company: MOO-E Four dances prepared by up-andcoming contemporary choreographer Seong-yong Kim. Goyang Aram Nuri Arts Center in Goyang. Jeongbalsan St. (line 3), ex. 3. Fri 8 pm & Sat 5 pm.

70 min. W15,000. artgy.or.kr, 1577-7766 October 23rd - 24th Romeo and Juliet: Contemporary Dance The final performance of SIDance, the Seoul International Dance Festival,

by Italian group Aterballetto. Goyang Aram Nuri Arts Center in Goyang.

Jeongbalsan St. (line 3), ex. 3. Fri 8 pm, Sat 7 pm. 90 min. W20,000 – W90,000. artgy.or.kr, 02-3216-1185 October 23rd - 25th Grease: The Musical

October 30th - 31st Werther: The Opera

Jules Massenet’s version of German’s groundbreaking novel The Sorrows of Young Werther. Hanam Culture & Arts Center in Hanam, just west of Seoul. Fri 8 pm (in French) & Sat 5 pm (in Korean). 120 min. W30,000 – W70,000. hnart.or.kr, 031-790-7979 October 9th – November 4th Namhansanseong: The Musical Based on Hun Kim’s gripping tale set in 17th century Joseon Dynasty Korea. Seongnam Arts Center near exit 1 of Imae St. on the Bundang line.

Weekdays 8 pm. Sat 3 pm & 7:30 pm.

50 years singing and still going strong. Hanam Culture & Arts Center in Hanam, just west of Seoul. 3 pm & 7 pm. 120 min. W35,000 – W60,000. hnart.or.kr, 031-790-7979 October 5th Matinee Concert Wake up to Haydn’s Concerto for Violin, Piano Concerto in D Major, and Symphony No. 103. Refreshments from 10 am until the concert starts at 11 am. W23,000. Seongnam Arts Center near exit 1 of Imae St. on the Bundang line. snart.or.kr, 1544-8117 October 16th Pianist Isao Sasaki in Korea Think of new age pianist and composer Isao Sasaki as the Yanni of Japan, though admittedly without the sexy hair. Seongnam Arts Center near exit 1 of Imae St. on the Bundang line.

8 pm – 9:30 pm. W33,000 – W77,000. snart.or.kr, 02-2658-3546 October 16th - 17th Mun-se Lee: “Red Sunset” Concert Lee is the original writer of “Red Sunset”(붉은노을 bulgeun noeul), which you probably know from the Big Bang cover. Gyeonggi Arts Center in Suwon. Fri 8 pm, Thu 7 pm. W66,000 – W99,000. ggac.or.kr, 031-221-2186 October 18th Michala Petri, Queen of the

EDITOR’S PICK October 7th - 12th Suwon Hwaseong Fortress Festival

Recorder Michala Petri is returning to Seoul to demonstrate again that the recorder is not just a child’s plaything. Along with her husband and accompanist Lars Hannibal, Michala will perform Mozart’s Flute Quartet in D Major—on the recorder, of course.

Seongnam Art Center near ex. 1 of Imae St. on the Bundang line. 5 pm.

W20,000 – W80,000. snart.or.kr, 02-2052-5988

Family & Community

No Butter, No Milk, No Egg No Trans Fat Shinsegye Department Stores @ Myungdong (B1) @ Gangnam (B1) Hyundai Department Stores @ Mokdong (B2), @ COEX (B1) Lotte Department Store @ Gangnam, @Jamsil AK Plaza @ Bundang

www.stickyfingers.co.kr | Contact Yoon Park 02-542-9274

October 15th - 18th Jarasum Jazz Festival

October 20th A Journey Through the World’s Folk Music The Suwon City Choir with In-gi Min conducting. Suwon Youth Culture Center. 7:30 pm. W10,000. artsuwon. or.kr, 031-228-2813 October 22nd The Moscow Chamber Orchestra Championed by brilliant Russian composer Dmitri Shostakovich, this stunning orchestra brings 50 years of experience to its concert in Suwon.

Gyeonggi Arts Center in Suwon. ggac.or.kr, 031-228-3242 October 26th Gyeonggi Pops Orchestra Regular Performance Gyeonggi Arts Center in Suwon. 7:30 pm. ggac.or.kr, 031-221-9877 October 30th Soiree Concert: Hyeon-cheol Kim’s Happy Hour Host and musician Hyeon-cheol Kim gets by with a little help from his friends. Seongnam Arts Center near exit 1 of Imae St. on the Bundang line. Wine served from 8 pm. 9 pm.

W30,000 – W40,000. snart.or.kr, 1544-8117

Jazz aficionados look forward all year to this festival located at Jara Island near Gapyeong, northeast of Seoul, which assembles classy international acts and solid local numbers for several days of improvised nirvana.

The slogan “back to the island” emphasizes this year’s shift in focus back to the natural setting that has been a big draw for the more than 450,000 visitors that have passed through the festival since it began in 2004. Jazz artists scheduled to perform include singer Dee Dee Bridgewater, bassist Avishai Cohen, trumpet player Enrico Rava, and the band Chico & the Gypsies.

Instead of purchasing the tickets on site for W30,000 a day make 10 Magazine October 2009 | 67

GYEONGGI

If you’ve been putting off your trip to Suwon’s Hwaseong castle until now, consider this your excuse to go. This four-in-one festival kicks off with an opening ceremony on the 8th from 7 pm to 10:30 pm at the special stage in front of Hwaseong Haenggung Palace with concerts, fireworks, and a laser show. Visit the Paldal Gate Market Festival which offers two singing contests and a hanbok (traditional Korean clothing) beauty contest to draw attention to traditional markets like Yeongdong Market.When you get hungry, head to the parking lot near the palace from 10 am – 10 pm on the 10th – 12th for the Food Culture Festival with over 36 restaurants offering Japanese, Chinese, and Korean barbecue. shfes.suwon.ne.kr, 031-228-2624

100% Vegan Bakery from Washington D.C.

CALENDAR your reservations by Oct 11th (1-day ticket for W25,000, 2-day ticket for W40,000, and 3-day ticket for W50,000) English website still needs a bit more tuning. jarasumjazz.com, 031-581-2813 Through October 25th Incheon Global Fair & Festival The next step in Incheon’s bid to become a hub of commerce, this festival comprises dozens of conferences, exhibitions, and festivals taking place over 80 days. Scheduled exhibits include the Robot Science Future Pavilion and World Culture Street. Most events will be held in Songdo International City, but refer to the comprehensive English website for the details. english.incheonfair.org, 032-440-7800

GYEONGGI

Education & Conferences Through October 7th Bucheon Intangible Cultural Heritage Expo

October 24th Dongducheon Youth Constellation Festival Starting at 10 am, the sports complex in Dongducheon (way north of Seoul) will host seventy science booths and events including star-gazing, “magic hand” making, and more. Oriented toward elementary, junior high, and high school students, the festival is great for anyone who wishes you could see the stars at night in Seoul.

A short drive from Dongducheon Jungang St. (line 1). http://cafe.daum. net/ddcusu, 031-860-2148

Sports & Fitness K-League Soccer

October 3rd Seongnam Ilhwa Cheonma vs Gangwon FC at Tancheon Sports Complex at 7 pm October 11th Suwon Samsung Bluewings vs Ulsan Hyundai at Suwon World Cup Stadium at 3 pm Incheon United vs Daejeon Citizens at Incheon World Cup Stadium at 3 pm October 18th Seongnam Ilhwa Cheonma vs Suwon Samsung Bluewings at Tancheon Sports Complex at 5 pm October 24th Suwon Samsung Bluewings vs Jeonbuk Hyundai at Suwon World Cup Stadium at 3 pm

“Rendezvous with tradition,” as the theme goes, at Bucheon’s massive culture expo. Exhibits, performances, and experience zones span a dizzying diversity of countries and cultures.

Make merry with Mexican mariachi singers, sizzle with a bit of Brazilian samba, and admire the Cambodian Apsara dance. The rendezvous is located at the Bucheon Image Culture Complex (Yeongsang Munhwa Danji) near Songnae St. (line 1). English site under development. 10 am – 9 pm. W5,000 for adults, W4,000 for minors. Reserve a ticket for a W1,000 discount. bucheonexpo.org, 032-329-7816

October 25th Incheon United vs FC Seoul at Incheon World Cup Stadium at 3 pm Walks, Runs and Marathons

November 8th Anseong Machum Marathon 5k, 10k and half at the Anseong Sports Complex, to begin at 10:30 am.

W10,000 for 5k, W20,000 for 10k and half. Sign up by October 15th. anrun. co.kr, 031-677-7333 November 15th Pro World Cup Hanam Marathon 5k, 10k, half and full at the Hanam Misari Rowing Stadium, to begin at 10 am. W35,000 for 5k and W40,000 for 10k, half and full. Sign up by October 15th. run1080.com, 042-638-1080

EDITOR’S PICK October 20th - 24th International Conference on Green Purchasing More than 1,500 people from 70 countries will gather to discuss new strategies for preserving the environment and encouraging consumers to buy green including former vice president and environmental lobbyist Al Gore. Attending his keynote speech alone is well worth the W20,000 registration fee. Lectures and seminars at the Gyeonggi Arts Center in Suwon, a “Green Village” festival, and an expedition on Oct 24th to the unrivaled ecological preserve otherwise known as the DMZ offer plenty of ways to become more environmentally conscious. icgpsuwon.org, 031-228-3805

Nightlife Frog and Toad One of Ilsan’s better known expat hangouts, Frog and Toad provides upstairs patio seating ideal for people-watching on La Festa’s main strip. Also a favorite for darts and Wednesday late-night open mic performances. frogandtoadilsan@ hotmail.com, Facebook Page: Ilsan Toad, 010-9950-7399 West Island A friendly staff tends to attract friendly patrons. Come to this Ilsan bar for darts and drinks or a fiery flare show on Fridays and Saturdays. 6 pm – 5 am. club.cyworld.com/westisland, 031-917-2225 La Mia Cucina The kitchen is always open at this Italian pub. Stop in for some pasta, pool, hookah, or drinks. Outdoor seating is available during the summer months, and an all Korean-English speaking staff makes patrons feel at home. 7 pm – 4 am. 010-2327-8882

advertisers cater to you, with friendly Englishspeaking staff and

Foodie Finds Lamb… on… Fries!

A little Uzbek sikdang in Ansan’s Asia Town has been attracting a clientele of multiple nationalities. Mixing Uzbek breads and love of lamb with Russian styling and killer Russian beers, Samarkand Kafé creates a pocket of Central Asia in a welcoming atmosphere.

The must-have dishes are the Chizbeef (French Fries topped with Lamb), Samsa (Meat-stuffed Pastries) and Golubtsky (Stuffed Cabbage Rolls just like grandma made). Ansan Asia Town is across the street from Ansan Station on the #4 subway line.

Take the second street on your left and find the place with the Cyrillic writing. 031-492-6984 68 | 10 Magazine October 2009

10’s

plenty of Englishlanguage resources.

KOREAN DESTINATIONS

Korea’s One and Only Chinatown Words by Gina Hessburg

2 3 4 5

GYEONGGI

1,4,5 by Elizabeth Groeschen and 2,3 Images Courtesy of Incheon City Hall

O

1

ctober provides perfect weather for an afternoon wandering the streets of Incheon’s Chinatown. The vibe is noticeably separate from the rest of Korea’s urban areas, and it is not just because of the red lanterns and gold façade that line the streets. Wandering the many blocks, one can find terrifically designed Chinese architecture and ambience, something lacking in other Chinatowns of the world.

In 1884 the Chinese Consulate opened in Incheon and today the Chinese make up a little more than 30% of the city’s population. The most famous area is Jayu (freedom) Park, also known as called Manguk (park of many countries). It was built in 1888 mainly by the foreign residents of Incheon, including Americans, Russians, and the Chinese. Some of the more popular stops in the area include the Chemulpo Club, which was erected in 1901 by the Municipal Council. The settlement was extra-territorial, and the Municipal Council functioned as a self-governing entity. The Chemulpo Club hosted many venues for foreigners to socialize and housed many international organizations in its time.

The club, now a talking museum, rotates exhibitions every three months to celebrate those nations that contributed to the community of Incheon. Some monuments are also scattered around the area, including a statue of General Douglas MacArthur and a dedication to students who volunteered to serve in the Korean War.

Incheon’s Chinatown is also the origin of Jajangmyeon, the Korean version of Zhajjangmian. This dish is a favorite amongst Koreans and is made of noodles topped with a black bean sauce made with diced vegetables, pork and seafood.

In Chinatown, there seems to be no limit in choices as to where you can dine on this delicious (and cheap) dish as well as plenty of other Koreanized Chinese Dishes, including the famous Tangsuyuk (sweet and sour pork). For a new taste try the spicy fried chicken, Ggangpunggi (깡풍기).

There are two main sets of stairs that

are worth a stroll up and down to take in the sights of Chinatown, as well as a great view of Incheon harbor. The set of stairs further from the station were rebuilt in 1951 and originally served as the borders between the Chinese and Japanese communities. Though not the original, the ornamental stones that line the staircase have beautiful details.

To get to Incheon’s Chinatown by subway, ride line #1 toward Incheon and get off at the very last stop, Incheon Station.

Walk out the only exit and an impressive and traditional Chinese gate greets you from across the street.

Tips Visit the Foreigner Service Center to help plan your trip before you head off to meander Chinatown’s streets. They also offer a variety of guided tours available in English, Tagalong, Vietnamese, Russian, and Korean to help you educate yourself on Chinatown’s history. world119.org, 032-777-1177 Until the end of October on Saturdays and Sundays at 3:00, tourists are treated to a small but entertaining Chinese Parade through the center of Chinatown. Be alert because, treats are thrown to the crowd.

For the best view of the parade, dine at one of the four 2-seater tables on the second floor of Yanjing Chinese Restaurant. 032-766-5551 One of the best Chinese restaurants in the area is Mandabok (만다복), recommended by tourists and locals alike. It’s located across from the Bukseongdong Office (북성동 사무소). 032-773-3838 If it’s a long subway ride to get there, make it an overnighter with a stay at the Paradise Incheon Hotel. It’s a lovely hotel a short walk from Chinatown, allowing you to perhaps partake of some of that famous Chinese liquor and then get comfortable night’s rest before the journey home. incheon.paradisehotel.co.kr, 032-762-5181 The lovely Castle Café is a cozy place to relax with a greenhouse, a playful puppy, and rooftop deck with a garden, shaded picnic tables and even grass. Located at the top of the main stairway. 032-773-2116 Check out more history at the Incheon Korean Chinese Cultural Center. www.hanjung.go.kr, 032-760-7860 10 Magazine October 2009 | 69

CALENDAR Art Through October 4th Mountain Beyond the Mountain Exhibit Sixteen painters from Daejeon and South Chungcheong Province contribute paintings centered on mountains, always a favorite theme for artists. Daejeon Museum of Art. 10 am – 7 pm. Adults W500, children W300. dmma.metro.daejeon.kr, 042-602-3225

CHUNGCHEONG

Through November 1st Cheongju International Craft Biennale Perhaps the biggest expo of its kind anywhere, Cheongju reminds us that crafts involve more than pipe cleaners and popsicle sticks. With the theme “Outside the Box,” the biennale features 158 artists from 25 countries at the Cheongju Arts Center and other locations around Cheongju. The three main exhibits are titled “Pressing Matter,” “Dissolving Views,” and “The River Within Us, the Sea All Around Us.” In addition to the main events, visitors can attend a craft competition and a craft fair.

A special guest pavilion showcases indigenous and cultural artifacts and artwork provided by the Canadian Crafts Federation. 9 am – 6 pm.

Adults/children are W6,000/W3,000 in advance and W8,000/W4,000 at the door.cheongjubiennale.or.kr, 043-277-2501 Gongju International Art Festival

Seventeen artists in the preview show running through October 9th and many more artists from 17 countries in the main show after that take the theme of “Mountain, Water, Human” to explore how humans and nature interact. Meanwhile, kids can take part in the possibly unrelated but definitely fun “Dinosaurs: Revived!” dinosaur-making contest. Limlip Art Museum in Gongju. Adults W3,000, children W2,000. Extra charge for art experiences. Good English site. limlip.museum.org, 041-856-7749

October 31st - November 1st The Dwarf that Loved Snow White Another upside-down fairy tale, this play gives us the scoop on the dwarf that did everything he could to show Snow White how much he loved her. Umseong Culture & Art Center.

W15,000 – W20,000. 3 pm. 80 min.

Eight years and older. esart.kr, 043-871-3883

Concerts October 1st - 3rd Jekyll and Hyde Original Musical Straight off Broadway with original performers along for the ride, “Jekyll and Hyde” arrives this month at the Daejeon Culture & Arts Center. Thu 7:30 pm, Fri & Sat 3 pm and 7:30 pm.

160 min. W40,000 – W120,000. djac.or.kr, 042-610-2222 October 6th The Huh Trio: Happiness

70 | 10 Magazine October 2009

October 29th - November 3rd Daejeon International Music FestivaL The former Grand Festival has gotten a makeover, changing its name to the Daejeon International Music Festival and inviting a variety of top musicians from overseas for six days of crescendos and arpeggios. With one concert each evening, anyone in the Daegu region really has no excuse for missing out on the concerts, and each night has cheap tickets available. Oct 29th. Helmuth Rilling directs the Bach-Collegium Stuttgart as it performs choir music by Bach and Handel at 7:30 pm.

Oct 30th: The Athenaeum String Quartet, composed of members of the Berlin Philharmonic, has a go at pieces by Mendelssohn and Dvorak at 7:30 pm. Oct 31st: The KBS Symphony Orchestra brings us Rachmaninov at 7 pm. Nov 1st: Johannes Kropfitsch is expected to get all A’s in an all B piano recital (Bach, Beethoven, and Brahms) at 5 pm. Nov 2nd: Seven contemporary songs by five different composers will be performed at 7:30 pm. Nov 3rd: The Daejeon Philharmonic Orchestra presents Mendelssohn’s oratorio “Elijah” at 7:30 pm. All concerts at the Daejeon Culture & Arts Center. djac.or.kr, 042-610-2222 offer short films in genres including documentary and drama, all less than 30 minutes. Screenings at Geumgang Citizen’s Park, Gongju University, and elsewhere. Check back for more info. kyff.co.kr, 02-771-8440

The “Huh” here is not the interrogative “huh?” but rather the last name of the trio’s leader, Seung-yeun Huh. Let them liven up your morning with some classical zest at the Daejeon Culture & Arts Center. 11 am. W10,000. djac.or.kr, 042-610-2222 October 8th Jose Lee Flamenco Performance The Taean Culture Center hosts the exquisite flamenco guitar licks of Jose Lee. 7:30 pm. taean.go.kr, 041-670-2114 October 10th Pianist Alexej Gorlatch

Theater & Dance October 27th Mozart’s “Magic Flute” Mozart’s opera, composed in the last year of his life, was a smash hit when it was first released and has remained a mainstay on the stage. “The Magic Flute” is presented for your viewing and listening pleasure at the Gongju Culture Center. Children over six are welcome. 7 pm – 9 pm. W12,000 – W30,000. 041-553-2023

EDITOR’S PICK

As part of the international music contest winners series, Ukrainian Alexej Gorlatch will display his considerable talents at the Daejeon Culture & Arts Center. 11 am.

W10,000 – W20,000. djac.or.kr, 042-610-2222 October 11th Carmen the Opera The Risorgente Opera Troupe presents Bizet’s unforgettable classic at the Daejeon Culture & Arts Center.

Education & Conferences

4:30 pm, 8 pm. 100 min. W30,000 – W50,000. djac.or.kr, 042-485-3355 October 14th Happiness of the Fountain Concert One W1,000 note is all it takes to get into this performance by the Daejeon Philharmonic Orchestra.

Daejeon Culture & Arts Center. 7:30 pm. djac.or.kr, 042-610-2266 October 17th Bora Jin Jazz Piano Concert Jazz pianist Bora Jin will perform jazz standards as well as her own original songs at the Daejeon Culture & Arts Center. 7:30 pm. W20,000 – W50,000. djac.or.kr, 1566-0723

Film October 11th - 15th Korea Youth Film Festival PIFF in Busan may be your best chance to see what’s hot in film today, but Gongju’s own Korean Youth Film Festival offers a glimpse into the future of Korean movies. Directors and screen-writers younger than 29 participating in the competition

October 12th - 16th International Astronautical Congress With missile tests north of the border and satellite launches south of it, Korea must be quite the exciting spot for people in the space industry.

Joining the congress itself will cost you upwards of W150,000, but the exhibition is open to the public from 10 am – 6 pm on the 14th – 16th.

Daejeon Convention Center. iac2009.kr, 042-539-2300

Sports & Fitness October 20th - 26th National Sports Festival Think of it as a Korea-wide sports day. Over 20,000 athletes divided into high school, university, and general categories will be competing in more events than you could imagine, including hard-to-find sports like rugby, rifle-shooting, canoeing, and fencing. 90sports.

90sports.daejeon.go.kr/ 042-600-2471 Walks, Runs and Marathons

October 31st Yi Sun-shin Alpine Marathon 10k, 15k and 24.3k at the folk village in Asan, north of Daejeon, to begin at 8 am. W20,000. Sign up by October 16th. asankaf.org, 041-547-9800.

Art Ongoing Mooee Arts Center

and two other teams includes pieces about cranes, maidens, and love (but hopefully no cranes and maidens in love). 2 pm – 5 pm. At Mureung Valley west of Donghae on the East Sea. dh.go.kr, 033-533-3011

Concerts October 7th Morning Classic Concert The Wonju Philharmonic Orchestra performs at 11 am at the Chiak Art Center in Wonju. wonju.go.kr, 033-737-4302 October 23rd Wonju Philharmonic Orchestra’s Regular Concert

Arari Puppet House

Under the guidance of owner and director Jeong-ui An, former representative of the Seoul Puppet Association, the Arari Puppet House has been offering puppet shows, classes, and exhibits with no strings attached. Jeongseon-gun. The museum is open from 10 am – 6 pm except for Mondays. The website’s nearly a museum piece itself, so have a friend call for info on classes and performances. arari.net, 033-563-9667 Through October 30th The Korean War: Voice of the Records More then 59 years have passed since the Korean War ended, but the past still speaks through the records left by those who struggled and endured. Exhibit held at Sokcho Museum. 9 am – 6 pm. sokchomuse.go.kr, 033-639-2977

Theater & Dance October 10th Thousand-year Crane Festival Cranes may be a symbol of longevity, but it seems unlikely they can help you make it to 1,000. An hour of dance by the Donghae Dance Lovers Troupe

Baegun Art Hall in Wonju at 7:30 pm. wonju.go.kr, 033-737-3820

Family & Community September 26th - November 1st Mindung Mountain Pampas Grass Flower Festival Head over to the 1,119 meter tall Mindung Mountain to feast your eyes on the big patches of pampas grass flowers the area is famous for. Make sure the mountain gods are on your side by joining the religious ceremony and then get out your hiking gear for the annual contest. Don’t miss the songs, food, and mountain adventures in Jeongseon-gun. jeongseon.go.kr, 033-591-914 October 8th - 10th Yangnok Festival The bus descends through the rugged mountains of Gangwon Province and into a pristine and gorgeous valley.

This is Yanggu-gun, and its Yangnok festival offers a refreshing break from the big city hustle and a unique view of the region’s customs and cultural heritage. Hit the trail for the Korean reunification mountain climbing contest, watch the lantern parade or fireworks display, or join in the sports events. There’s also calligraphy on display, the intriguing “Korean image poster exhibit,” and the work of worldrenowned painter Su-geun Park.

Events take place at the local sports complex and auxiliary field in Yanggugun. ygtour.kr, 033-481-2191 October 10th – 11th Sogeum River Cheonghak Festival

October 23rd - 25th Korea Two-Day Walk Wonju wants you to walk this way.

The city, in fact, is crazy about walking, with a W500 million park designed expressly for that purpose and the headquarters of the Korean Walking Federation. This year’s Korea Two-Day Walk gets going with a walking symposium and an international friendship night on the 23rd followed by the main events on the following two days. Find the distance that’s right for you and your legs with 5k, 10k, 20k, 30k, and 50k walks scheduled. The more than 40,000 participants include overseas walkers from countries including Norway, Germany, Japan, and Taiwan, so you’re sure to find a good walking buddy. Hit the road for W50,000. The journey begins at the Tattoo Stadium in Wonju. Tattoos not included.

Great English website. koreawalk.kr, 033-762-2234 Originally a simple religious ceremony, like most Korean festivals this one too has turned into a huge celebration.

After the robes are donned and the sacred texts are read, festival participants lace up their hiking boots for the climbing competition. Expect the jangle and jive of traditional farming music performances and heaps of hot food to keep away the autumn chill. Near Gangneung by the Sogeum River. gntour.go.kr, 033-661-4161

Education & Conferences Through October 4th Your Time and Space A special collection of relics donated

by Dr. Manil Bak. Chuncheon National Museum. Weekdays 9 am – 6 pm, weekend 9 am – 7 pm. Free. chuncheon.museum.go.kr/eng/index. asp, 033-260-1500 October 26th - 30th ANGVA 2009 Short for the Asia Pacific Natural Gas Vehicles Association Conference & Exhibition, ANGVA offers professionals the chance to fill up on useful info. Anyone interested in natural gas facilities around Donghae, including a submarine cable factory, can join the technical tour on the 26th from 2 pm – 5 pm (W50,000 for foreigners). The general public is welcome to visit the expo between 10 am – 5 pm from the 27th – 29th.

Also worth checking out are the picturesque Mureung Valley and a 1.4 km long limestone cave near by. angva2009.com, 02-3143-5539

Sports & Fitness Walks, Runs and Marathons

October 10th - 11th Seorak Mountain Fall Colors

Rock-Climbing Competition 18.3k, 22.4k, and 31k at Seorak Mountain. Depart by bus from the Seocho-gu Office (Yangjae St. line 2 exit 7) at 9:30 pm on October 10th.

W40,000. Sign up by September 30th. korcmc.org, 02-424-2195 November 8th Chiak Mountain Rock-Climbing Competition 13k and 23k Chiak Mountain. Depart by bus from the Seocho-gu Office (Yangjae St. line 2 exit. 7) at 7:30 am.

W35,000. Sign up by October 30th. korcmc.org,02-424-2195 K-League Soccer

October 11th Gangwon FC vs Jeonbuk Hyundai at Chuncheon Sports Complex at 2 pm October 24th Gangwon FC vs Daejeon Citizens at Gangneung Sports Complex at 2 pm

Dine & Drink October 9th - 11th Anheung Steamed Bread Festival If you like steamed bread—think hoppang, mandu, or dim sum— you’ll love Hoengseong-gun’s food fest. Along with the obvious bread making and tasting, come on opening night for a fireworks display and on the second night for an oldies concert. There’s also a cool exhibit where you can get up close and personal with the area’s flora and fauna along with a dance off and craft booths where you can play with pottery and straw. Be sure to leave some of the bread for us! jjinbbang.or.kr, 033-340-2673

10 Magazine October 2009 | 71

GANGWON

Visiting the extremely creative website (all Korean, unfortunately) is nearly as cool as actually going to Mooee Arts Center. If you do make it to Pyeongchang-gun, however, check out the sculpture garden, painting exhibits, and the pottery, illustration, and calligraphy workshops available for individuals and groups upon request (ask ahead please). 9 am – 7 pm. Adults W2,000, students W1,000.

Closed 1st and 3rd Mondays. mooee.co.kr, 033-335-6700

EDITOR’S PICK

CALENDAR Art Through October 21st Ride the Wind: Painting Exhibit Okgwa Art Museum in Gokseong Province. Adults W500, students W400. 9 am – 6 pm. okart.org, 061363-7278 October 23rd - 29th Network 21C Exhibit More than 70 pieces of conceptual and experimental art in a variety of genres.

Sori Arts Center in Jeonju. sori21.co.kr, 010-9436-3046

Theater & Dance October 6th Carmen: The Opera Sori Arts Center in Jeonju. 7:30 pm. sori21.co.kr, 063-220-2392 October 10th - 11th Romeo and Juliet: The Musical Korean rendition of Gerard Presgurvic’s musical. Jeonbuk Univ. in Jeonju. 3 pm and 7 pm. 150 min. W40,000 – W120,000. ticket.interpark.com, 1600-8005 October 29th Verdi Virus Opera snobs may be appalled at this fusion opera which combines elements from Verdi’s most popular operas including “Aida” and “Rigoletto” to make a more crowd-pleasing production. Sori Arts Center in Jeonju.

7:30 pm. 100 min. W10,000. sori21.co.kr, 010-9449-5217

JEOLLA

October 29th - 30th Don Quixote: The Ballet The bewildered knight learns to dance, with some help from the Universal Ballet Troupe. Suncheon Culture & Art Center. W7,000 – W20,000. 7:30 pm. scart.or.kr, 061-749-3517

Concerts October 1st To My Beloved: Choir Concert Sori Arts Center in Jeonju. 7:30 pm.

80 min. sori21.co.kr, 063-241-8335 October 7th Korean Philharmonic Orchestra Mozart and more. Sori Arts Center in Jeonju. 7:30 pm. 90 min. sori21.co.kr, 010-7214-5005 October 10th The Festival Beethoven, Liszt, Elgar, and others, all in the unusual eight-hand, two-piano style that requires four pianists to play at once. Sori Arts Center in Jeonju. 5 pm.

90 min. sori21.co.kr, 010-6525-6242 October 14th - 15th Twelve Girls Band in Korea The twelve Chinese babes in this band aren’t just on stage to look good; they actually play instruments classical crossover style. Sori Arts Center in Jeonju. 7:30 pm. W20,000 – W50,000. sori21.co.kr, 063-270-8000 October 15th Dream Philharmonic Orchestra Regular Performance: “Bisang” Sori Arts Center in Jeonju. 7:30 pm. 90 min. W10,000. sori21.co.kr, 010-3677-4567 72 | 10 Magazine October 2009

October 17th Dae-gwan Song and Jin-a Tae: Rivals in Concert The clash of the titans of trot, the Korean genre that sounds like a mariachi band in a disco club. Sori Arts Center in Jeonju.

3 pm and 6:30 pm. 150 min. W55,000 – W88,000. sori21.co.kr, 1588-0766 October 18th Northern Jeolla Province Wind Orchestra Sori Arts Center in Jeonju. 6:00 pm. 90 min. W10,000. sori21.co.kr, 011-650-2280 Gloria String Orchestra Regular Performance Sori Arts Center in Jeonju. 7:30 pm. 70 min. sori21.co.kr, 010-8647-2821 October 24th Irish Flute Ensemble Sori Arts Center in Jeonju. 6 pm. 60 min.

W10,000. sori21.co.kr, 011-473-9274

Family & Community October 11th Horizon Kite Flying Guinness World Record Challenge Gimje’s Horizon Festival will feature an attempt to set a new Guinness World Record by having 1,500 people fly kites at least three meters in the air for three minutes. Call to find out how you can join in the kite-flying caper. gimje.go.kr, 063-542-3031 October 17th - 24th Suncheon Bay Reed Festival Scenic Suncheon hosts events like the Suncheon Bay Walking Competition, an international gardening expo, and migratory bird watching. At the Suncheon Ecological Park. suncheon. go.kr/home, 061-744-8111 October 29th – November 8th Iksan Ten Million Chrysanthemum Festival We can’t vouch for the claim of ten million flowers, but with a chrysanthemum exhibit, a chrysanthemum artwork contest, and flower pots placed on verandas throughout Iksan, there will definitely be a bunch of blooms. Iksan Central Athletic Park. iksan.go.kr, 063-859-433 October 30th - November 1st Naejang Mountain Autumn Leaves Festival The Culture Plaza near Naejang Mountain in Jeongeup. jchf.or.kr, 063532-8880

Education & Conferences September 19th – October 18th World Calligraphy Biennale of North Jeolla Province http://www.biennale.or.kr/2009/index. asp, 063-241-4507

Sport & Fitness Walks, Runs and Marathons

Jeonju Hash House Harriers A running club with a drinking problem. jeonju.rightinfront.com

Jeonju International MTB Club Mountain biking every Tuesday afternoon at 5:30 pm. Variety of terrains, nationalities. No fees. Meet at the bicycle shop opposite the ice skating arena, not far from the turtle ship restaurant. davidjmvance@hotmail.com Jeonju Muay Thai Keep fit with some demanding classes in Muay Thai, kickboxing and even MMA. Jeonju Muay Thai/MMA on Facebook.

K-League Soccer

October 2nd Jeonbuk Hyundai vs Chunnam Dragons at Jeonju World Cup Stadium at 3 pm October 11th Gwangju Sangmu Phoenix vs Seongnam Ilhwa Cheonma at Gwangju World Cup Stadium at 3 pm Chunnam Dragons vs Pohang Steelers at Gwangyang Stadium at 3:30 pm October 17th Chunnam Dragons vs Daejeon Citizens at Gwangyang Stadium at 7 pm October 18th Jeonbuk Hyundai vs Gwangju Sangmu Phoenix at Jeonju World Cup Stadium at 3 pm October 24th Gwangju Sangmu Phoenix vs Pohang Steelers at Gwangju World Cup Stadium at 3 pm

Chunnam Dragons vs Jeju United FC at Gwangyang Stadium at 7 pm

Dine & Drink October 29th - November 1st Namdo Great Feast Not only the place where the sea and the land meet, Jeolla Province is also where spicy, bitter, sweet, salty, and sour combine in some of the most savory dishes to be found on the Korean peninsula. Follow your nose to Suncheon. suncheon.go.kr, 061-749-4221 Underground Grocers Foreigner owned and operated, Gwangju’s local imported food shop has all of those hard-to-find cheeses, taco shells and other delicacies foreigners in Korea crave. One minute from the McDonald’s in Hwangguemdong. 062-232-2626

Nightlife Jeonju Art & Travel Cafe Open mic nights every Wednesday from 9 pm.

Facebook group, 011-9437-0208 Deepin Popular expat bar with a casual atmosphere. 019-9646-1028 Gwangju Speakeasy The fun never stops at this fantastic bar owned and operated by a true Irishman in the heart of Gwangju. mdspeakeasy.com

EDITOR’S PICK October 9th - 13th Gimje Horizon Festival Rediscover the simple lifestyle of farmers through a wide range of events held around Byeokgolje Reservoir in Gimje. In addition to handson activities that teach young and old about farming life and Korean traditions, there are rowdier events including the earth-shaking twin dragon game and tug of war. The horizon concert and the autumn evening memories concert, along with an attempt to set a Guinness world record by flying kites (see left), round out the festival. festival.gimje.go.kr, 063-540-3032 October 31st - November 1st Gunsan Saemangeum Air Show Despite all the mutual mud-slinging about mad cows, the FTA, and those oh-so-evil English teachers, the US 8th Fighter Wing and the ROK 38th Fighter Group show that we can all get along (at least when there are some bad-to-the-bone jet fighters to play with). In addition to the air show, there will be loads of American and Korean tasty treats to nibble on and special games for kids include coloring and making paper airplanes and a lego building contest. At Saemangeum Seawall and the Gunsan air base. airshow.gunsan.go.kr, 063-450-4554

EDITOR’S PICK October 14th – 16th Daegu Fashion Fair Most head to Apgujeong in Seoul for their fashion fix, but Daegu’s thriving textile industry makes it the natural choice for this show.

With sponsors including the city of Daegu and North Gyeongsang Province, companies from around the world are expected to attend the event held at EXCO. Perhaps more interesting for the casual visitor is the fashion show held concurrently with the expo.

Fourteen independent Daegu designers and designers from the SFAA Collection present the hottest haute couture on the 3rd floor: Wed 11 am – 5:30 pm, Thu 1 pm – 7 pm, and Fri 1 pm – 5:30 pm. fashiondaegu.com, 053-601-5061

Art Through October 4th Unexpected History of Our Everyday Lives Starting with developments in Busan’s Yongdusan Park as a starting point, 17 artists contribute paintings, photographs, and other artwork depicting the surprising new urban terrain we encounter everyday. At the Yongdusan Art Gallery, located in Yongdusan Park near Nampodong St., ex. 1. 10 am – 6 pm. art.busan.go.kr, 051-244-8228

artists from Yeongnam (referring to the southern part of Korea) at the Daegu Culture and Arts Center. artcenter.daegu.go.kr, 016-509-5938 October 20th - 25th Hyeon-hui Lee Solo Exhibition Twelve pieces delineate the boundary between reality and fantasy. Bongsan Culture Center in Daegu. Free. bongsanart.org, 011-9568-3236 North Gyeongsang Sculpture Exhibit

BUSAN, GYEONGSANG

Through October 11th Glass Box: Art Star Series #5

Pieces presented by Lorie Kim under the title of “Rising Dreams”. 2nd floor of the Bongsan Culture Center in Daegu. Open 24 hours a day. Free. bongsanart.org, 053-661-3516 Through October 31st Sang-il Lee Photography Exhibition Contemporary Korean photographer Sang-il Lee’s work will be on display at the Goeun Museum of Photography near ex. 1 of Haeundae St. (line 2) in Busan. 10 am – 7 pm.

Closed Mondays. Detailed directions on English website. goeunmuseum.org, 051-746-0055 October 6th – 11th Yeongnam Calligraphy Competition Exhibit Calligraphy may seem like a tranquil hobby, but what if W3 million won is on the line? See the best work of

Forty pieces of sculpture by thirty-three artists in all, including newcomers Yun-gi Kim, Won-i Son, Jeong-min Lee, Jae-hun Jeong, and Hyo-jun Ha. Bongsan Culture Center in Daegu. Free. bongsanart.org, 011-515-1424 October 27th - November 1st Jun-ho Lee Solo Exhibition: “The Balance of Opposition” Around 15 sculptures made of found objects and rocks. Bongsan Culture Center in Daegu. Free. bongsanart.org, 010-9377-2503

Theater & Dance Ongoing Jump The comic martial arts performance has enjoyed consistent popularity for a decade now. Lotte Art Hall. Tue 10 Magazine October 2009 | 73

CALENDAR - Fri 8 pm, Sat & Holidays 5 pm & 8 pm, Sun 6 pm. W40,000 – W50,000. hijump.co.kr, 051-744-4885 Through October 31st Daegu International Opera Festival One of Daegu’s proudest cultural accomplishments must be its yearly opera festival. With the theme of “Opera: to dream of challenge and hope,” the festival offers a diverse palette of operas both old and new.

“L’Elisir d’Amore” plays from Oct 8th – 10th, “Der Freischutz” on Oct 15th and 17th, “Won’s Mother” (a Korean opera) from Oct 23rd – 24th, and “Carmen” from Oct 29th – 31st. In addition to the main operatic performances, there are a variety of other events including a free opera concert, master classes, auditions, and a back stage tour. Performances at the Daegu Opera House, the Suseong Artpia, and the Kolon Field Music Hall. W10,000 – W70,000. diof.org, 053-666-6111 September 25th – October 15th Gwangdae Theater Festival Six theater troupes, four little theaters, and free concerts on the beach add up to a great introduction to the artistic culture in the Suyeong-gu region of Busan. Take a stroll down Gwangalli Beach while you’re there.

No English website, so have a Korean friend help you inquire about details. suyeong.go.kr, 051-610-4049

October 10th “Stranger” and Other Dances In all ten dances will be performed by the Cheonma Dance Troupe.

Bongsan Culture Center in Daegu.

7:30 pm – 9 pm. Free. bongsanart.org, 010-8725-3149 October 15th – 24th National Dance Festival The most agile dancers in Korea meet to present “the dance of dreams, the soul of dance.” The first day will feature the opening ceremony with performances from overseas groups, while the competition will begin on the 16th and continue through the 23rd. Check out the outdoor stage for performances including talent shows and magic shows or take a guided tour of the city of Gimhae. Sponsored by the Dance Association of Korea.

Gimhae Culture & Arts Center. gndance.org, 055-336-8120 Mid October Geoje Island Art Festival Seminars, exhibits, and performances spanning photography, music, art, literature, theater, dance, and gugak (traditional Korean music) should keep your inner artist satisfied. discover gorgeous Geoje Island west of Busan. geoje.go.kr, 055-688-9225 October 16th – 17th Don Quixote: The Ballet

BUSAN, GYEONGSANG

Geumjeong Art Festival Geumjeong-gu in Busan is alive with art this October. Don’t let fear of the flu keep you away from the cool autumn air and the opening night concert, performances, fireworks extravaganza, folk games, fringe festival, and other events scheduled for the three days of the festival. geumjeong.go.kr, 051-514-5501

With the Universal Ballet Troupe, expect Don Quixote to joust with the windmills more gracefully than usual.

Daegu Culture and Arts Center. 7:30 pm. W10,000 – W40,000. artcenter. daegu.go.kr, 053-606-6113 October 17th – 18th Wings: The Ballet

The Ong-nyeon Kim Ballet Troupe presents a parable of poverty in the modern world. Busan Cultural Center.

3 pm and 6 pm. bsculture.busan.kr, 051-626-9486 October 24th Autumn Nights in October

Performance by the Isanghwa Dance Troupe at the Bongsan Culture Center in Daegu. 6 pm – 7 pm. Free. bongsanart.org, 010-6763-0327 October 28th The Moon with the Sun Choreographed by Chan Jeong and performed by the 21st Century Contemporary Dance Group, this dance explores the meaning of the moon and sun. 7:30 pm – 8:30 pm.

Adults W10,000, students W5,000. bongsanart.org, 010-8535-6026

EDITOR’S PICK October 9th – 11th Colorful Daegu Festival

Concerts October 9th Daegu Symphony Orchestra Regular Performance Program includes several pieces by Felix Mendelssohn. 7:30 pm. W10,000 – W20,000. 053-606-6313.

October 12th Busan World Philharmonic Orchestra Performing Bernstein’s Candide Overture, Dvorak’s Cello Concerto in B minor, and Tchaikovsky’s Fifth Symphony. Busan Cultural Center. 7:30 pm. bsculture.busan.kr, 1577-7600

Take some time out to “have fun with art at Sincheon,” as this year’s Colorful Daegu Festival suggests. In this art festival, plenty of interactive activities and experience booths make you the main event. Choose from event zones including a fringe festival with the Pine Forest Stage, Colorful Stage, Festival Stage, and Palace Stage, the Colorful Forest Art Playground, a multicultural Festival, and more. The names are a little hokey but the events are guaranteed to show you Daegu as you’ve never seen it before.

Have a friend help you navigate the website for more details. cdf.or.kr, 053-803-3767 74 | 10 Magazine October 2009

October 16th Opera in Concert: Tosca Puccini’s “Tosca” performed by the Busan Symphony Orchestra. Busan Cultural Center. 7:30 pm. W5,000 – W20,000. bsculture.busan.kr, 051-607-3111 October 17th Kind Ms. Geum-hui Meets Beethoven Ms. Geum-hui is the host, and her kind musical analysis will fall on deaf ears for those of us who are Koreanimpaired. Bongsan Culture Center in

Daegu. 6 pm. W20,000 – W30,000. bongsanart.org, 053-661-3081 October 18th Isao Sasaki Nation-wide Tour Japanese new age pianist known for the song “Sky Walker.” Busan Cultural Center. 5 pm. W33,000 – W55,000. bsculture.busan.kr, 02-2658-3546 October 21st Daegu Metropolitan Gugak (Korean Traditional Music) Orchestra A concert called “Embellishing the Score” will be performed Daegu Culture and Arts Center. 7:30 pm.

W10,000. artcenter.daegu.go.kr, 053-606-6327 October 23rd Daegu Symphony Orchestra Regular Performance The night’s concert offers pieces by Soviet composer Dmitri Shostakovich.

Daegu Culture and Arts Center.

7:30 pm. W10,000 – W20,000. artcenter.daegu.go.kr, 053-606-6313 Busan Symphony Orchestra Regular Performance Featuring Shostakovich’s Violin Concerto no. 1 in A minor and Richard Strauss’s “Don Quixote.” Busan Cultural Center. 7:30 pm. W5,000 – W10,000. bsculture.busan.kr, 051-607-3111

Film October 1st – 15th Korea Drama Festival The city of Jinju will host the Korean Drama Awards and a host of related activities at the Gyeongnam Culture and Arts Center and other places around the city. Highlights include a concert featuring music from drama soundtracks that will delight (or disgust) you. Dramaholics won’t want to miss “A Night with the Stars” or the drama photo exhibit. kdfo.org/2009/korea, 055-755-2363 October 8th – 16th

EDITOR’S PICK Pusan International Film Festival See our cover story

Family & Community Through October 4th Cosmos and Buckwheat Flower Festival An unlikely title for a great blend of the old and new in Hadong-gun. If you don’t care for the old farming implements exhibit, try the traditional wedding with an international couple, the groom Korean and the bride Vietnamese. tour.hadong.go.kr, 055-880-2114 October 9th – 11th Dongnae Eupseong History Festival Five hundred years ago, the citizens gathered at Eupseong Castle to resist the Japanese invasion, and now they gather to celebrate the bravery of their ancestors. Traditional performances, battle reenactments, parades, wrestling

matches, and other activities bring history to life. Bungmun Plaza and the Dongnae Culture Center in Busan. festival.dongnae.go.kr, 051-550-4000 October 9th – 13th Hamyang Water Wheel Festival

Like the turning of the water wheel, this festival has gone through a series of names since it started in 1962. This year, once the bell tolls on the 9th the festivities begin, including a choir concert, fireworks, singing contest, gugak (traditional Korean music) performances, and a world dance performance. hygn.go.kr, 055-960-5161

October 24th – 25th Nakdong Folk Art Festival The Nakdong River was once a major waterway used by ferries and barges, but modern transportation advancements have erased most of the traces of its former use. The Buk-gu region in Busan celebrates the river’s history and traditions with samulnori and pungmul (folk music) performances and competitions and other events. Near Deokcheon St. (ex.

2). bsbukgu.go.kr, 051-364-2710

Education & Conferences October 9th – 13th Busan Housing Fair Growing concern over global warming leads this year’s Busan Housing Fair to focus on new trends in ecofriendly construction and architecture, including low carbon materials and techniques for saving energy. BEXCO. 10 am – 6 pm. W5,000. Sign up in advance. khfair.com, 02-3397-0067 October 21st – 24th Marine Week If Jack Sparrow were in Korea, he would be sure to visit the three-in-one Marine Week shipping spectacular.

With the Naval & Defense Expo, the Sea Port Expo, and the Kormarine (shipbuilding and marine equipment show) all at the same place (BEXCO)

Sports & Fitness October 17th – 18th Mungyeong Mountain Festival Mungyeong, nestled in the middle of the Baekdu Mountain Range, offers enough steep slopes and rugged terrain to keep the most experienced hikers on their toes. Take your pick of the Juheul Mountain climbing contest, the hiking contest, or the barefoot walking contest and show how much of a man (or woman) you are. sanfestival.com, 054-550-6393 October 31st – November 1st Admiral Yi Sun-sin Cup International Yacht Race The economy may be sinking, but the yacht industry is still afloat.

Three hundred people from over ten countries are slated to compete in this year’s yacht race. If you catch sight of a yacht that looks mysteriously like a turtle, you’ll know that Yi Sunsin has joined in the fun. Note that the website has yet to be updated for 2009. yisunshincup.com, 055-643-3335 Walks, Runs and Marathons

November 8th Pohang Homigot Hot Springs Marathon Half and full at the Guryeonpo-eup Homigot Hot Springs in Pohang, to begin at 9:30 am. W20,000 for both courses. Sign up by October 30th. phultra.com, 054-285-5016.

BUSAN, GYEONGSANG

Busan Hot Springs Festival Get naked without getting arrested at the hot springs festival in Dongnaegu, Busan. A discount is available at all participating bathhouses. After you get out of the steam, check out the hot springs health beauty contest, taekwondo performance, fireworks display, traditional parade, and tons more. Around the National Hot Spring in Dongnae-gu, Busan. Five minutes away from Oncheonjang St. ex. 1. hotspring.or.kr, 02-720-5004

at the same time, you’ll find yourself wishing you too were a pirate, or at least a sailor. See the English site for details. marineweek.org

November 15th 3rd Jinhae Marathon: Run with the Navy 5k, 10k and half at the Jinhae Public Stadium, to begin at 10 am. W15,000 for 5k, W25,000 for 10k and W30,000 for half. Sign up by October 15th. jinhaemarathon.or.kr, 055-282-1555.

K-League Soccer

October 2nd FC Daegu vs Suwon Samsung Bluewings at Daegu Stadium at 3 pm October 3rd Busan I’Park vs Daejeon Citizens at Busan Asiad Main Stadium at 8 pm October 4th Ulsan Hyundai vs Gwangju Sangmu Phoenix at Ulsan Munsu Stadium at 3 pm Pohang Steelers vs Incheon United at Pohang Steelyard at 3 pm October 7th Pohang Steelers vs FC Seoul at Pohang Steelyard at 7:30 pm October 11th Gyeongnam FC vs FC Daegu at Geochang Sports Complex at 3 pm Busan I’Park vs Jeju United FC at Busan Asiad Main Stadium at 3 pm

10 Magazine October 2009 | 75

October 13th – 18th Yeongju Punggi Ginseng Festival

October 17th Busan Fireworks Festival

Siji Taco (Daegu) Good selection of spicy tacos with a variety of fillings at competitive prices. 053-791-5050 Indian

Ganga (Busan) opposite Haeundae Beach lies the Busan branch of this luxurious Indian chain restaurant. ganga.co.kr, 051-740-6670 Apparently, ginseng is good not only as a health booster but also as the theme of a festival. Get in on the ginseng action with a ginseng taste test, ginseng peeling contest, and even a ginseng marathon. By the banks of the Namwon River in Yeongju. ginsengfestival.com, 054-635-0020

The day after the screens go dark at the Pusan International Film Festival, the sky along Gwangalli Beach will light up with the more than 85,000 fireworks planned for the Busan Fireworks Festival.

Get to the beach early to enjoy a Nanta performance and other music lasting from 3 pm – 7:55 pm, after which the main fireworks show will get fired up. The festivities continue after the firework show with a percussion concert and movie screening at 8:45 pm.

Gwangan St. (ex. 5). bff.or.kr, 051-888-3392

October 23rd – 25th Cheongsong Apple Festival “Even if the world ends tomorrow,” says this festival’s slogan, “I’ve just gotta eat an apple.” Not exactly poetry, perhaps, but Cheongsonggun does have some awesome apples. Judge for yourself at Cheongsong-gun’s Folk Museum and Apple Park. cs.go.kr, 054-873-0101 International Restaurants American

downtown Daegu burgers & sandwiches

BUSAN, GYEONGSANG

tex-mex & greek western breakfast

Hami Mami’s (Daegu) Located on the ground floor of ‘Club That,’ serving well priced breakfasts and sandwiches. 010-3815-8169

beer & cocktails

Sunset Lounge (Busan) “Drinks, Western Food and Fun” is their tagline, and they deliver right next to Haeundae beach. 051-742-2959

wine & martinis

w w w.theholygrillkorea.com Tel. 053-423-4048 October 17th Ulsan Hyundai vs Gyeongnam FC at Ulsan Munsu Stadium at 3 pm Pohang Steelers vs Gangwon FC at Pohang Steelyard at 3 pm October 25th FC Daegu vs Ulsan Hyundai at Daegu Stadium at 3 pm Gyeongnam FC vs Seongnam Ilhwa Cheonma at Changwon Sports Complex at 3 pm

Dine & Drink October 9th – November 8th Mungyeong Apple Festival The folks at Mungyeong would like to draw your attention away from the Cheongsong apple festival, but since 76 | 10 Magazine October 2009

Holy Grill (Daegu) Owned and operated by Canadians, the Grill provides expats with homemade gourmet burgers, mouth-watering sandwiches, Tex-Mex and Greek.

They take a simple menu to a new level, providing fantastic food and explosive drinks in a chilled out environment that feels more like a lounge than a burger joint. See ad this page. 053-423-4048

they overlap there’s no reason why you can’t try out both. In addition to the crispy crunch of apple munching, Mungyeong lets you peel, pile, bob, buy, slice, study, squeeze, and yes even love its fine fruit. mgapp.com, 054-550-8265 October 15th – 18th Busan Jagalchi Festival As the biggest and baddest outside fish market in Busan and probably all of Korea, Jagalchi’s already a big tour spot, but this festival makes it even more of a draw. The events are a great catch for friends or family: wrestle fish out of a huge tank and proceed to chow down, sample sashimi, check out some fish pictures, and buy some of the usual (and unusual) products on sale. ijagalchi.co.kr, 051-231-9362

Waegook Cook (Gumi) Gumi’s original foreign owned and operated restaurant, serving up great steaks, hamburgers, seafood, pastas, and German cuisine. waegookcook.com French

Dijon (Daegu) An up market establishment serving both French and Mediterranean cuisine.

053-422-2426 Italian

Berkeley (Daegu) Warm décor and lighting, well prepared and affordable Italian cooking. Located on Hof street. 053-421-8577 Café Francesco (Daegu) Italian cooking, sandwiches and good coffee. Located just off rodeo street 053-252-9625 Mexican

Leo Chow (Daegu) A neat little bistro serving a decent selection of burritos and tacos. 053-255-7111

Maya (Daegu) located across from Gyeongbuk University’s North Gate, Maya offers a mouth watering selection of set menus and individual dishes. 053-214-1916 Russian and Eastern European

Kebabistan (Busan) located directly out from Busan station is this Uzbekistan restaurant serving a well priced selection of Halal dishes including kebabs, soups and stews.

051-581-4050 Samarkland (Daegu) Affordable and authentic Russian cuisine, decent beer and cheap but pure Russian vodka, all just a stone’s throw from Daegu station. 053-252-4021

Nightlife Daegu

Club That Located on the raod just down from the Samdok fire station.

010-6587-4147 Old Skool A Hip Hop bar that is a favorite among the expat community on the weekend, whether it’s for dancing, socializing or drinking.

Busan

Fuzzy Navel Great drinks and great Mexican food as well. Four different locations, the one behind Seacloud Hotel Haeundae being the most popular. 011-1757-6349 Maktum A modern venue for club dancing, events, launching shows, and sports parties. 9 pm – 6 am. maktum.co.kr, 051-742-0770 Sosa Bar A cozy and pure latin-bar, located very close to Pusan National University. 051-513-0070 Rock ‘n’ Roll House Western-style bar with darts and pool and a great view of Haeundae Beach.

051-742-5553 NEO Starface This latin club at Haeundae beach offers free Salsa teaching classes weekdays from 8 pm. Saturdays boast a live band and/ or DJs. www.neostarface.com 051-746-1746 Vinyl Underground Running strong for 6 solid years, the Vinyl Underground continues to deliver fresh breaks, house, funk, electro, tech house, and hip hop. B2 Han La Building. 9 pm - 6 am. 051-628-0223

Art Through October 10th Sotdae Sculpture Exhibit

ticket.interpark.com, 1544-1555 October 4th The Fox That Ate Books: the Musical

October 30th - 31st I Love You: the Play Jeju Culture and Arts Center. 7:30 pm. W10,000 – W15,000. jejuculture.or.kr, 064-710-7643.

Concerts October 11th Yeo-eun Jeong Vocal Performance The program includes Italian, German, and Korean songs as well as famous arias. Jeju Culture and Arts Center.

7:30 pm. Free. jejuculture.or.kr, 016-681-6404.

The charming little tale of the fox who devoured books (literally) has been made into a musical for you and your children’s enjoyment. At the Jeju Culture and Arts Center. 11 am, 2 pm, 4 pm. W20,000 in advance, W25,000 at the door. jejuculture.or.kr, 010-8300-2410

Sip from a mug of herbal tea at the quaint Gallery Café Mirunamu as you examine the sotdae sculptures, the Korean equivalent of Native American totem poles. Near Ijungseop Road in Seogwipo. 064-763-6248 October 3rd – 7th Gyeong-sik Yang: Exhibit An exhibit of paintings entitled “Room: Space and Thought.” Jeju Culture and Arts Center. jejuculture.or.kr, 010-2237-1492

October 17th – 18th Orestes: the Play An adaptation of the third act of the classical Greek play by Euripides. Jeju Culture and Arts Center. 4 pm and 7 pm. Free. jejuculture.or.kr, 010-4448-2265 October 28th - November 1st Drawing Show on Jeju

October 26th Jeju Symphony Orchestra Regular Performance Performing works by Rolf Rudin and J. Sibelius. Jeju Culture and Arts Center. 7:30 pm. Adults W5,000, students W3,000. jejuculture.or.kr, 064-728-3937.

October 27th Jeju-Japan Miyazaki Piano Exchange Concert Japanese and Korean pianists demonstrate their chops on Chopin, Liszt, Gershwin, and others. Jeju Culture and Arts Center. 7:30 pm.

W10,000. jejuculture.or.kr, 010-5123-9003.

October 30th Young Artists Concert Jeju Culture and Arts Center. 7:30 pm. Free. jejuculture.or.kr, 010-9989-5539.

October 19th – 23rd Jeju, UNESCO World Nature Heritage Site Jeju Culture and Arts Center. jejuculture.or.kr, 010-3696-5202

Family & Community October 10th - 18th Jeju Horse Festival Saddle up for this festival featuring Jeju’s greatest four-footed resource.

October 30th – November 3rd Korean-Chinese Photo Exchange Jeju Culture and Arts Center. jejuculture.or.kr, 011-691-5847

Theater & Dance Ongoing Nanta on Jeju Island Nanta, the non-verbal performance that got started ten years ago, is a feast for the ears that turns ordinary kitchen pots and pans into a rhythm section. At Jeju Media Center in Jeju City (064-727-7800). 90 min. Sun 8 pm, Tue – Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 pm, 8 pm.

W40,000 – W50,000.

October 14th Seoul Pops Orchestra in Concert The “Korea Power Plus Hope, Love, and Sharing Concert” is a free event featuring a progressive director and a jazz singer intent on bringing classical music to the masses. At the Jeju Culture and Arts Center. 7:30 pm. jejuculture.or.kr, 02-593-8760

The fascinating and hard-to-define art performance on open run in Daehangno in Seoul will be on stage for four days at the Ara Muse Hall at Jeju University. Images taken from nature and history appear and transform before your very eyes.

Weekdays 7:30 pm, Sat 4 pm and 7 pm, Sun 3 pm and 6 pm. W50,000.

064-767-4145, ticket.interpark.com

Held at Jeju Racecourse Park southeast of Jeju City. kra.co.kr, 064-741-9251

Sports & Fitness K-League Soccer

October 4th Jeju United FC vs FC Seoul at Jeju World Cup Stadium at 3 pm October 18th Jeju United FC vs Incheon United at Jeju World Cup Stadium at 3 pm

Dine & Drink Indian

Bagdad Cafe Delicious, authentic Indian food made from local ingredients in a gorgeous atmosphere.

064-757-8182 Japanese

Dom Jang Absolutely spectacular sushi and sashimi in several fabulous locations all over the island. By far the best atmosphere is in Jungmun.

064-738-2550 Mexican

El Paso Rather bland but adequate Mexican food in a central location in Jeju City. 064-752-8252 Western

Island Gecko's A varied menu of terrific Western food, plus maybe the best cocktails and service on the island. Island Gecko’s BBQ nights will blow you away. Ribeye steak, sausages, calamari, baked potato, herb chicken, fresh seasonal fish, vegetables on the grill along with salad and a basket of homemade bread every weekend only W19.000!

064-739-0845

Subscribe Now. It’ll be the best W20,000* you spend this year. subscribe@10magazine.asia *Must make full payment before October 30th, 2009 to be eligible.

10 Magazine October 2009 | 77

JEJU ISLAND

October 8th – 12th Korean Appreciation Calligraphy Contest Exhibit The winning calligraphy entries are on display. Jeju Culture and Arts Center. jejuculture.or.kr, 010-9838-6724

October 10th - 11th Bubble and Laser Show Big kids and tiny tykes alike will have a blast watching simple chemistry creating bubble trouble. Double the fun with a simultaneous laser show! Located at Halla Art Hall on the campus of Jeju Halla College.

W15,000. 12 pm, 2 pm, 4 pm. Venue website in Korean. hc.ac.kr/org/art, 064-741-7575

October 13th Masan Philharmonic Orchestra’s 25th Anniversary Tour Pieces by Mendelssohn, Mozart, and Shostakovich at the Jeju Culture and Arts Center. 7:30 pm. W10,000 – W15,000. jejuculture.or.kr, 055-297-5927.

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NETWORKING CALENDAR October 6th

AWC Coffee Morning Hear the Korean War Abductees Family Union (KWAFU) tell the story of over 80,000 South Korean civilians abducted and sent to North Korea since 1950. Grand Ambassador Hotel (former Sofitel), 19thfloor, 9:30 am. AWC members W12,000, non-members W15,000. awckorea.org

BCCK/KCCI Joint Lunch The very special guest speaker will be Rt. Hon. Lord th Peter Mandelson, First Secretary of State, Secretary of State for Business, Innovation & Skills, Lord President of the Council. He will be speaking on Britain’s Low Carbon Industrial Growth Strategy. Held at the Grand Hyatt’s Grand Ballroom at 12 pm. W58,000 for members, W68,000 for nonmembers. bcck.or.kr 2009 october

wed

7

October 7th

EUCCK VIP Night 2009 A exlusive networking night with champagne, excellent food, music provided

by DJ BIOKAT and the opportunity to win luxurious prizes. By invitation only. Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul. 7 pm - 11 pm. retail@eucck.org, 02-725-9949

Association, make new friends and get tips on life in the city of Seoul. W8,000. Held at Seoul Club is located between the Shilla and Tower Hotels. siwapage.com October 9th

The Kiwi Chamber Friday Night Hui Enjoy a terrific buffet along with wine and beer at the Oak Room in the lovely Seoul Millennium Hilton. W45,000 all inclusive.

6 – 9 pm. chamber@kiwichamber.com

October 16th

Annapurna Indian Women's Club’s Diwali Gala Dinner Enjoy delectable, gourmet Indian food by two expert chefs from India and a fun-filled evening of Music & Dance (and prizes!) All proceeds go towards charities. Dress Code: Formal/Indian/National.

Grand Ballroom, Millennium Seoul Hilton at 7:00PM. W120,000. annapurna.seoul@gmail.com

October 21st October 13th

BCCK Shindig (English Garden Party) Sponsored by SC Jaeil Bank. Details to be announced, must have reservation to attend. Held at the British Embassy Residence Garden, 6:30 – 8:30 pm. bcck.or.kr

SIWA Coffee Morning Enjoy a coffee and learn step by step how to compose a still life drawing using chalk pastel. The demonstration will be given by Crystal Kim from Gallery Etcetera and Sheena Kelly from Kids' Gallery. Held at the Grand Ambassador Hotel W12,000KRW for members, W17,000 for non-members. siwapage.com

October 13th

RASKB Lecture A very special lecture with Dr. Andrei Lankov, Senior Professor at Kookmin University and author of The Dawn of Modern Korea. Held at Somerset Palace at 7:30 pm. raskb.com

October 16th

AWC Newcomer Coffee Belsize Park restaurant in Itaewon,10:00 am. Belsize Park is located on the back alley behind the Hamilton hotel in Itaewon, across from Chakraa and Smokey Saloon and next to The Bungalow. These are very informal meetings where you will have an opportunity to ask questions and get answers not only about AWC, but all the ins and outs and innuendos of being an Expat in Seoul. awckorea.org for additional information

October 24th

AWC’s A Day at the Races It is time for a day outing at the Seoul Race Course Park before the cold days of Seoul besiege us! Bus from Seoul Club departs at 9:15 am, arrives at 10:15 am, returns at 4:30 pm. W20,000 includes bus and admission to the track. awckorea.org

October 27th

RASKB Lecture Guest speaker to be announced. Held at Somerset Palace at 7:30 pm. raskb.com AWC The American Women’s Club of Korea BCCK British Chamber of Commerce in Korea EUCCK European Union Chamber of Commerce in Korea KCCI The Korea Chamber of Commerce and Industry The KIWI Chamber The New Zealand Chamber of Commerce RASKB The Royal Asiatic Society Korea Branch SIWA Seoul International Women's Association

10 Magazine October 2009 | 79

NETWORKING CALENDAR

October 8th SIWA Newcomers’ Meeting A great chance to get to know a little more about Seoul International Women’s

Sponsored by Allied Pickfords

Cycling the Han Words by Samantha Dix-Hill, Artwork by Hyeon-song Ryu

W

hen expats move to a new country they are normally quite keen to try out the local food, visit a museum or two, or even learn a new language. Every time I move I take up a new sport.

Don’t get me wrong; it’s not one of those written down goals that I try so hard to achieve every year. It just happens. I see new people doing different things and I guess curiosity gets the better of me.

In Germany it was in-line skating and there was nothing remotely graceful or elegant about it. Japan started the golf phase but I hit a hard-working gardener on the head with a ball. Actually to be honest I never used the fairways at all. There should be a special discount for that.

China was horse-riding, and a word to the wise: do not attempt to jump your horse over anything after a long and boozy lunch.

In Korea, it’s cycling.

If you want to meet the friendliest people in the whole of Seoul, grab a bicycle (preferably yours) and head on down to the Han River. For most of the summer I’ve been cycling up and down the river with my friend. And our dogs. She attached a huge wire basket (I believe it was previously used for shopping) to the back of her bike, covered it with a striped blue sunshade, and in went the two lively Yorkies. I attached a slightly more discreet looking basket to the front of my bike and in went my dopey Daschund. It was really great fun but we never got that far.

Every time we rode past a group of kids they thought the circus had come to town and we had to stop and let them pat the dogs.

Sadly my dear friend has left and now I’m forced to cycle with my husband. He takes this whole deal a lot more seriously than I

do. For starters he has a bike with those click-in death trap pedals.

You know the ones that you can never release your foot from when you’re in a hurry? And not once, but twice I’ve watched him fail to disengage his foot in time and land like an upturned turtle on the side of the road. Forgive me, but it looks really funny. As I stand there turning puce trying not to laugh I can’t help thinking that those pedals were invented by some longsuffering wife who decided to teach her husband a lesson for heading off on long weekend rides. No woman in her right mind would ever buy anything so deadly. But tell a man it’s the latest technology and there you go. He’ll glue his feet to the pedals and wonder why he falls off at every traffic light.

Somewhere as I write there is another clever wife inventing a golf bag that ejects the appropriate golf club at high speed.

“Good game, darling? What

happened to your eye?”

But as I was saying, if you really want to experience a wonderful side of Seoul, head on down to the Han. The weather should be warm enough for a short while longer. You will see huge groups of cyclists all wearing exactly the same outfits and I’m sure they belong to a special group. Maybe they have an ‘Over 60 Group’ or ‘The Singles Group’? Usually they’ll wave and say hello and if you ever need some assistance with a flat tire or a broken chain there is always somebody willing to help. I’m thinking of getting a proper shirt and starting my own group too.

I think I’ll call it the ‘Does my bum look big on this saddle?’ group.

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80 | 10 Magazine October 2009