10 Magazine February 2011 by 10 Media

Art • Theater • Concerts • Film • Community • Fitness • Dine & Drink • Nightlife • TRAVEL

Korea awaits! • february 2011 VOL. 3 NO. 5

외국인의 한국생활 노하우

Shijang Korea s Amazing Markets

Printed using 100% soy ink.

is more than just a magazine...

10magazine.asia • twitter.com/10_magazine • facebook.com/10magazine 10magazine/weekly10 • 10magazine/itaewon-map

It’s the total package.

9 Reader’s 10 Results

See what our readers have to recommend in the way of pizza, wings, and hamburgers. Movie guide on p. 41

10 Interview with Jim Lim

Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows: Part 1

february 2011 vol. 3 No. 5

39 The Silk Road and Dunhuang

10 met with Jim Lim, the head of Meat & Livestock Australia’s Korea office.

Travel the ancient Silk Road with 8th century Korean monk Hyecho as your guide.

44 Restaurant Review: Shy Bana

12 When the Han Froze Over

It’s been nearly a century since winter covered the Han with a layer of ice.

Though it claims to serve Southern American cuisine, this restaurant still has work to do.

62 The Tea House that Dares You to Leave

Sujebi: Hand-Torn Pasta

It’s hard to find, but just as hard to leave this Suwon café.

66 Different Characters of KSU

Easy to make and even easier to enjoy, sujebi is the poor man’s pasta.

These Kyunsung University bars keep the nightlife alive. Green Giant

16 Executive Chef Sung-tae Lee

Lee keeps the kitchens going from sun-up to sun-down at the Marriott Executive Apartments.

Shot by dy l a n go ld by

Traditional Eats on the Streets Covering markets from Gwangjang in Seoul to Jagalchi in Busan and summing up all the pojangmacha in between, this article has loads of info on all kinds of outside eats.

68 Pop Art and Political Art

Exhibits at the Gwangju Museum of Art tackle both topics.

70 Olle 10 Holds Jeju’s Gems

18 Reliable Clinics for Expectant Mothers

Grace’s list will come in handy for soon-to-be moms in Korea.

20 Into the Volcanic Heartland of Kyushu

Japan isn’t just robots and temples, as these hot springs show.

36 Sweets for Your Sweetie

Find Songaksan and Sanbangsan on this southwest Jeju trail.

72 Super Ajumma

Munch on macarons and share your heart with heartshaped chocolates.

Beware the bold, feisty, and unflappable Super Ajumma.

44 Books: An Expat's View of Jeju

185 pages of fantastic photography by Jeju expat Brian Miller. Haenyeo, photographed by Brian Miller

For information about performances by Santana, Eric Clapton, Taylor Swift and Iron Maiden, see the Seoul calendar on p. 49

SHINHAN BANK Seoul Global Center

Exclusive Banking for Foreigners

"Banking was a frustrating experience when I first arrived in Korea 14 years ago. I always felt like I was an unwelcome burden to my bank: no investment options, no access to credit cards, no overseas ATM card, they would even stamp my passport every time I sent money overseas! Now though, I just do all my banking at the Shinhan Bank Seoul Global Center where I know I am a valued client, never a burden. The excellent English-speaking staff listens to me and gives me access to great banking products - both at the branch and online."

Rod Rothwell, Executive Director AustCham Korea

SHINHAN BANK Seoul Global Center Koreana Hotel

Exit 4

Exit 5

Exit 4

City Hall Station Best Western New Hotel

Gwanghwamun Station

Seoul Finance Center (ground ďŹ&#x201A;oor)

Tel: 02-773-3131 Fax: 02-773-3164 sgcenter@shinhan.com www.shinhan.com Photo by Scott Hemsey

Experience Korea’s Traditions While You Still Can

eing a foreigner in Korea can be a fascinating and frustrating, invigorating and infuriating experience all at once (I just love alliteration). In one day, you can go from the ecstasy of enjoying Korea’s general safety and great public transportation and receiving help from a friendly native to seconds later feeling the crushing dejection of all the bumping, pushing, gum-smacking, spitting and negotiating with someone who obviously wants you to lose money before they’ll sign any deal. You can end up suffering from the highs and lows of a manic depressive when, as a newcomer, you end up questioning all the fundamental premises of the society in which you reside, constantly comparing it to your place of origin. You eventually, and perhaps inevitably, become hypersensitive to both the good and the bad: the things that natives are likely to accept as simply “the way things are.” But there are also some very special aspects of life that we are privileged to experience today, aspects that were not available to visitors in the past and may well no longer exist for future generations. With every step further in Korea’s “advance” into a modern economy, precious remnants of traditional culture are gradually swallowed up and become mere memories. Our cover story this month is about venerating these traditional modes of commerce while we still can experience them— particularly gastronomically. I had the pleasure of accompanying photographer Dylan Goldby while he shot our cover for this

month’s issue, and I got to talk to the lovely Ms. Bok-sun Kim, who is serving up the jeon and makkeolli (savory pancakes and rice beer) in our cover shot. As Jokbal Alley we walked up and down the narat Gongdeok Market, Seoul row aisles of Gwangjang Market (광장시장), we both lamented the inevitable fact that these lively markets are slowly disappearing and may perhaps vanish completely within our lifetime. One of my favorites, Gongdeok Market (공덕시장) is slated for destruction already. I will miss Gungjung Hamhocks (궁중족발) when they finally level it to put up another beige apartment complex. But before they do, you can turn to our article on p. 24 to learn about markets around Seoul from Daniel O’Sullivan, as well as find a list of some of the largest markets around Korea to discover on your next trip. Then you can learn about how to enjoy a drink with some friends on a crisp winter night in one of Korea’s tent bars (포장마차) from Charles Montgomery (p. 30). We’ve also added a new section I’d like to point out to you. Our Expat Expertise (more of that great alliteration) section will be letting you in on some concrete information that you will be able to apply to your life in Korea. We’ve had articles of this format before, covering topics from investing to open mic nights around the country, but now we’re adding it as a regular feature, nomenclature and all. This month, new mother Grace Sun shares with us the plethora of knowledge she gained in the many months spent preparing for the arrival of little Jaydon (p. 18). If you or someone you know is an expectant mother in Korea, hold on to this issue. You’ll be glad you did. Steph en R ev er e M a n agi n g E dito r

A Shot of Korean by Stephen Revere

터지겠다. [Teo-ji-gett-da] : It’s gonna pop. / He’s gonna pop. / I’m gonna burst. Here’s where the fact that Koreans rarely use subjects in their sentences can really come as an advantage. You don’t have to think about which noun to throw in as a subject or which subject marker to use—just say “터지겠다” and people will guess what you’re talking about from the context. The verb “터지다” means “to pop” or “to burst” and the “겠다” ending makes it future tense. The most common place I end up using this one of course is on my way out of the restaurant when I’ve eaten more than I can stand. I’m gonna burst, and so I blurt out, “터지겠다.” If, in the midst of this ridiculously cold weather, you have the sad experience of having your pipes burst, then you’ll have to use the past tense of the verb. 집의 수도관이 얼어 터졌어요. [Jip-e sudogwan-i eor-eo teo-jeoss-eo-yo] - A pipe (수도관) at my house froze and burst. Check out Survival Korean and Survival Korean: Basic Grammar Skills for more Korean lessons from 10’s Managing Editor, Stephen Revere.

4 | 10 Magazine February 2011

n... e h w s n e p What hap

importer emium wine a direct pr s up with a... meet

top quality meat importer who then brings in a...

l Gourmet natura r... to ibu tr dis cheese

Answer: High Street Marketyour one stop Deli at wholesale prices! - Boutique wines… - Excellent meats cut to order… - Fresh-baked European breads… - High end imported cheeses… - And everything in between!

professional Germ an baker who introduces Them to a...

Exit #1

Hangangjin Station

High Street Market (2nd floor) EC SP

IZING IA L

IN QUALITY

ME A

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TS ,

HIGH STREET MARKET

IP Boutique Hotel Japan Plaza

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Buy the Way Exit #2 Cheil Building 제일기획 Itaewon Station Subway: Line 2 to Itaewon Station exit #2 Go straight and High Street Market is on your left Line 6 Hangangjin Station exit #1 Go straight and High Street Market will be on your right

PARK HERE

Hannam-dong Community Center Parking Lot

◄ Matthew Crompton (p. 20) is a writer, photographer, and part-time metaphysician. He’s been proud to call Seoul home for the last two years, but for 2011 he’s taking the show on the road. Wish him luck (seriously!) and follow his adventures at goingaroundplaces.wordpress. com. Matthew’s writing and photographs have been featured in The Australian and Adventure Travel Magazine UK in addition to 10 Magazine.

CEO Executive Editor Managing Editor Assistant Editor General Manager

Kyoung-hee Lim kl@10magazine.asia

Art Director

Hugh Lee hlee@10magazine.asia Dylan Goldby dg@10magazine.asia

Photographer

► A self-taught photographer with a passion for all things visual, Scott Hemsey (p. 26) has taken in many scenes throughout his travels and the time he has spent camera–inhand. Capturing his perception and composing his perspective, he lends individuality to his photographs and the process of taking them. His work can be found at flickr.com/photos/shinc. ◄ 10 Staff Spotlight Sunkyung Lee, a native of Seoul, is an English major at her university. She’s interested in learning about new places, and if possible, she would love to explore the world. In her free time she enjoys music, reading books, sleeping, and chatting with her friends. Recently, she has been very happy to be a part of 10 Magazine. ► Charles Montgomer y (p. 30) works at Dongguk Universit y, where, at the request of st udents, staff and other faculty, he is usually locked in his office. A believer in unicorns, fan death, and the possibility of a balanced budget, his “never say die” attitude makes him extremely unpopular at funerals. His website is ktlit.com and he wants you to visit it. ► Daniel O’Sullivan (p. 24) is a teacher and food blogger from Belfast, Northern Ireland. An exBusanite turned Seoul convert, he spends much of his time pounding the streets in search of Korea’s best street food. Join him on his curbside quest at streetfoodie.com.

6 10 Magazine February 2011

▼ Derek Winchester ( p. 62). Photographer. Teacher. Traveler. Writer. Son. Friend. Da Vinci fan. Ex-amateur actor. English major. Nova Scotian. Canadian. George Carlin fan. Decade-plus expat. David Fincher fan. Flickr user. Facebook user. Steve McCurry fan. Dalma Daesa look alike. Ex- comic book collector. Movie watcher. Reader. Coen brothers fan. Bad housekeeper. Ba d exe r ci se r. Ba d eater. Bad at writing bios.

Sang-tae Kim sangtaekim@10magazine.asia Jai-yoon Kim jaiyoonkim@10magazine.asia Stephen Revere sr@10magazine.asia David Carruth dc@10magazine.asia

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Contributors Josh Bennett, Michael Berry, Joshua Broward, Andy Clay, Patrick Conway, Matthew Crawford, Matthew Crompton, Samantha Dix-Hill, Carlos Escamilla, Curtis File, Scott Hemsey, Ciaran Hickey, Angela Jacobus, Angela Lee, Grace Lee, Minjung Lee, Song Lee, Sun-kyung Lee, Mike Luedke, Stafford Lumsden, Paul Matthews, Rob McGovern, Joe McPherson, Brian Miller, Charles Montgomery, Ji-sun Moon, Brielle Morgan, Robert Neff, Anna Orzel, Danny O’Sullivan, Grace Sun, Evalyn Tabhan, Jason Teale, Patrick Volz, Bryce Weibley, Derek Winchester. Our lovely cover model, Boksun Kim, was kind enough to pose for photographer Dylan Goldby on a busy Saturday afternoon, despite hectically preparing jeon for her soonto-arrive patrons. You too can visit to try out a wide variety of pan-fried vegetables, fish and beef lung if you’re so inclined. You’ll find her in Gwangjang Market (see our cover story on p. 24) stall North B-#38 (북부 B-38호). Bringing along some Purell and napkins might be a good idea.

Subscribe today for 45% off the cover price! W29,000 for a year • W15,000 for 6 months subscribe@10magazine.asia, 02-3447-1610, www.10magazine.asia

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LETTERS Corru pt ion at 10

A maga zi ne t hat is t agli ned “Korea Awaits!” has a cover story on... *scratches head*... Malaysia (?) and a splashy doublepage inside-cover advertisement paid for by ... oh now I get it!... Malaysia Tourism... Sorry but could you make it any more obvious that your editorial content is dictated by your advertisers? Oh, and while I’m here, could you quote me the going rate for a positive restaurant review? John Hwang, Seoul We gotta admit, it’s a tough country in which to try to maintain journalistic standards. You wouldn’t believe the pressures! Potential advertisers are frequently pushing us to write articles about them if we want their ad. Heck, that’s how publishing works here in Korea. A ridiculous percentage of the articles you read in all sort of media are directly paid for by an advertiser, but you’d never know it from reading them. We, however, are fighting the pressure here at 10. Articles are not paid for, but “Advertorials” or “Promotions” may be paid for, in which case you’ll see them clearly labeled as such. That’s how the journalism professors say it should work. We’re happy to say that all of our advertisers are very happy with our magazine as it is, and don’t try to meddle with our content. The would-be meddlers have chosen not to advertise with us, as we don’t adjust our content according to their demands. In the case of January’s ad from Malaysia Tourism, that ad from them came after we decided to write the article, as often happens in the publishing industry. You line up your publication’s content for the next 6 months or so, then you go to the ad agencies and advertisers who may want to promote things related to your content and try to persuade them

to advertise with you. Our tremendous photographer Dylan Goldby had already taken the amazing photography and written the article and our designer Hugh Lee had already designed the article before they ever even agreed to run an ad. We certainly appreciated the help though, as 10 is just starting to get into the black after almost two and a half years of operation. Print media is a tough business nowadays, as you may know, and we’re doing our very best to maintain journalistic standards while helping our readers - and hopefully someday making a reasonable profit too! And finally, once again, we are not paid for our restaurant reviews, we reimburse our resident foodie, Joe McPherson, for his meals, and we don’t notify restaurants ahead of time that they will be reviewed. Thanks for giving us a chance to clear that up, John. 10

No L onger C lu el e ss

I love to read 10 Magazine. It tells me what is going on across Korea and without it I would have missed out on a lot of events. With it in my life, I am not such a clueless foreigner anymore. Sarah Jane Proffitt, Seoul That’s what we’re here for Sarah. Glad to be of service. 10

* * * As you can see, we’re not afraid to print letters that take us to task, which also helps us communicate with our readers. As you’re reading this month’s issue, if you’ve got an opinion on something you’ve read, be sure to send it to us! We’re obviously thick-skinned enough to take the complaints as well, so keep those letters coming to comments@10magazine.asia.

Overhe ard It doesn’t matter what I order, they always give me bibimbap!

Blog of the Month

氣 Ranger

youtube.com/user/qiranger

The 氣 Ranger is American video blogger Steve Miller. But what in the world is a 氣 Ranger, and how is that even pronounced? To answer that question, you have to go back to Steve’s former life as a Chinese medical massage therapist. This is where he got the Chinese character 氣 (written “qi,” generally pronounced “chee”), which means “life force energy. “Ranger” refers to something else entirely, Steve’s experience working as a park ranger at Tonto National Monument. The wide range of life experience evident here illustrates Steve’s keen sense of curiosity and adventure. This has brought Steve a long way in the past few years—literally. He left Gilbert, Arizona for six months of travel in 2007 and finally decided to teach in Korea largely because he didn’t know anything about the country. In the two years since then, Steve has turned his attention to creating upbeat videos focusing on his life in Korea and travels in Asia.

Korea by the Numbers The percentage of Koreans located in the Seoul metropolitan area. 23.17 million people live in Seoul, Incheon, and Gyeonggi Province out of a total of 48.22 million South Koreans in 2010. 46.3% (2000)

48.2% (2005)

T h e C h a n g e i n P o p u l at i o n S i n ce 19 9 0

45.1%

83.1% 8.5%

1.8

6.2

1.6

12.5%

11.3 mil.

4.4

5.7%

• Jeolla

5.7

• Busan

13.5%

10.4%

3.8

5.0 mil. 4.9 mil.

3.4 mil.

• Gyeongsang

8.8

0.51

2.6%

1.5 mil.

• Chungcheong

• Jeju

8 | 10 Magazine February 2011

2.6 mil.

• Gangwon

Source: Statistics Korea kostat.go.kr

9.7 mil.

• Incheon

• Gy e o n g g i

49% (2010)

The percentage of total residences in Korea that are classified as apartments. Of 14.88 million homes, 8.67 million are apartments.

• Seoul 10.6

9.3 mil.

0.53 mil.

Some good videos to start with include The Race to Seoul, in which Steve and fellow video blogger Hy unwoo Sun (talktomeinkorean.com) try to prove once and for all whether subway or bus travel is faster. Another is The Lotus Lantern Festival and Parade (above), which guides viewers through the fun activities and thrilling parade at this yearly event. Text-based blogs can also be found on Steve’s new-and-improved website, qiranger.com.

THE READER'S 10

Where Are the Best Burgers, Pizza, and Wings in Korea?

his month’s Reader’s 10 was a wee bit self-indulgent on our part. We’re preparing an article on where to find some of the best versions of your old favorites from back home. Burgers, pizza and wings are good ol’ comfort food that few Westerners can do without and are quickly becoming an essential part of the diet of Koreans as well. Our Internet poll has now brought in the final results, and while they’re certainly not scientific, hundreds of people voted for their favorites, so you can count on great Western fare at any one of the places on the list.

The Best Burgers 10. Craftworks Taphouse & Bistro craftworkstaphouse.com 9. Kraze Burger kraze.co.kr 8. Gecko’s geckosterrace.com 7. Jacoby’s Burger Haebangchon 6. Beer O’Clock beeroclock.ca 5. Dillinger’s facebook.com/DillingersBarSeoul 4. The Wolfhound wolfhoundpub.com 3. Pepper Grill Hongdae 2. Chili King chilikingkorea.com 1. Traveller’s Bar & Grill facebook.com/travelersbar

The Best Pizza 10. Dalgrak Italian Stone Pizza Jeju 9. Trevia cafe.naver.com/trevia 8. Crow’s Nest Itaewon 7. Villa Sortino sortinos-seoul.com 6. Papa John’s pji.co.kr 5. Pizza School pizzaschool.net 4. Hollywood Grill Itaewon 3. Costco Pizza costco.co.kr 2. Beer O’Clock beeroclock.ca 1. The Pizza Peel Itaewon

The Best Wings 10. 9. 8. 7. 6. 5. 4. 3. 2. 1.

Hooters hooterskorea.co.kr Reggae Chicken Hongdae Big Rock bigrockbeer.co.kr Kyochon kyochon.com The Wolfhound wolfhoundpub.com Dillinger’s facebook.com/DillingersBarSeoul Rocky Mountain Tavern rockymountaintavern.com 3 Alley Pub 3alleypub.com Beer O’Clock beeroclock.ca/index.html Traveler’s Bar & Grill facebook.com/travelersbar

And next month, we’re going to learn a little about where you want to visit in Asia. As an expat in Korea, you probably want to check out plenty of other Asian hot spots while you’re living here, and you’ve probably traveled to some incredible places during your time here.

What’s the best place to travel to in Asia? We’re already taking nominations in our Open Thread as we go to print. We’ll have a poll up and take your votes from February 1st - February 6th. Be sure to vote at 10magazine.asia! 10 Magazine February 2011 | 9

10 Qu estions

Regional Manager of Meat & Livestock Australia, Korea Office E dited by D av i d C a r r u t h , sh ots by Dy l a n G o l d b y

very time you carve up a steak at Outback or bite into a Lotteria burger, chances are that it’s Australian beef, and head of MLA Korea Jim Lim is pretty proud of that fact. Lim was born in Korea and raised in Australia, and his bi-lingual and cross-cultural skills appear to serve him well as he heads up Australian beef promotions here. In a country where fears about mad cow disease and a preference for cheaper meats like pork make for a difficult market, Jim is overseeing efforts to convince Koreans that beef is the protein of choice for lunch, dinner or on any occasion. 1. What brought you back to Korea after so long? My family moved to Australia when I was 5 months old. I grew up in Sydney and completed my undergraduate and graduate studies at the University of Sydney as well as a CPA program. After 28 years in Australia, I felt it was time to explore the world and went to Hong Kong. After approximately 10 weeks of rest and recreation (and running out of money), I was fortunate to land a job there with the Australian telecommunications giant TELSTRA. In 1999, I was assigned to establish TELSTRA Korea’s operation, thus fulfilling my ambition to come back to Korea to discover my roots and spend more time with my parents. 2. How do Korean’s meat-eating habits stack up with other countries? Historically, Koreans have eaten more pork than beef due to price. To put this into perspective, Koreans eat 29 kg of pork and 12 kg of beef per person per year. The beef pie, therefore, is comparatively small globally speaking. Consider the fact that Australians consume 35 kg of beef per person per year, Americans 39 kg, and Argentines an incredible 58 kg. On the other hand, Koreans eat relatively more beef than their Asian neighbors. The Japanese eat 9 kg per year and the chinese eats approximately 4 kg per person per year. 3. Can you outline major developments in the Korean beef import market over the past few years?

10 Magazine February 2011

When Korea first liberalized beef imports in 2001, US beef dominated the market. Then, in late 2003, the first case of BSE (bovine spongiform encephalopathy) in the US was reported, resulting in the banning of US beef imports. Total imports dropped significantly from 326,000 tonnes in 2003 to 164,000 tonnes the following year as a result of this ban and a general shift from beef to other meat proteins, which was devastating for beef-producing nations across the world. Fortunately, imports of beef are expected to have reached 255,000 tonnes in 2010, a trend showing a strong recovery but not quite up to pre-BSE levels. Australia’s export market was at 124,000 tonnes of beef last year, representing approximately a 53% market share. 4. What differentiates Australian beef from any other beef? Australia’s country of origin label has the phrase, “clean and safe” which ref lects the industry’s very strong integrity and traceability systems. In the past, MLA marketing programs have focused on promoting Australia’s safe and clean record, which we’re very proud of. One of the reasons for Australia to focus on this is the fact that approximately 50-60% of its beef is exported according to a stringent production and supply chain system that meets all of the tough import rules and guidelines. 5. What is MLA’s primary strategy in Korea? MLA’s ultimate goal is to encourage Koreans to eat more beef in general. Our real competitors are the alternative meat proteins such as pork and chicken. Once the size of the beef pie is

increased, Hanwoo (Korean beef), US, New Zealand and Australia will all be winners. The other focus is to inform Koreans that beef is a rich source of iron, zinc and omega 3, making it an essential brain food for growing kids. The nutritional message is something I focus on, and we will continue to educate Koreans about the benefits of including beef in their diet. 6. What is the biggest project that you’ve been involved with at MLA? As mentioned, I wish to emphasize the nutritional aspect of beef. We want to remind moms that children need protein to grow up strong and healthy and that omega 3 is an essential brain food. As we all know, Korean moms are always looking for ways to help their kids succeed academically, and we hope that the omega 3 message will influence their purchasing behavior. 7. How significant is the trading relationship between Australia and Korea? Korea is Australia’s fourth largest trading partner, and the two economies are complementary. Korea imports Australian resources such as coal and iron ore and then uses these resources to manufacture cars and electronic goods, which it then exports to Australia. One interesting fact is that Australia’s single largest customer is POSCO (Pohang Iron and Steel Company), reflecting the importance of the Korean market to Australia. The trade relationship between the two countries is set to see further growth as the Korea-Australian FTA is in the final stages of negotiation and is expected to be ratified this year.

The average Korean eats 29 kg of pork and 12 kg of beef each year. In comparison, Australians eat 35 kg, Americans 39 kg, and Argentines 58 kg of beef per year. 8. Do you have any advice for foreign executives interested in doing business here? My advice to any foreign business person is first to understand Korean culture and build a strong relationship that involves trust and loyalty. Once that is established, it’s then very easy to talk about price and quantity. Bear in mind, though, that Koreans are hard negotiators, often emotional but very open and straight, which will make negotiations at times tough but fun. Do not be afraid to talk business over lunch, dinner or golf as the board room can often be the wrong place to negotiate. 9. What are some examples of common cultural misunderstandings in Korea? As mentioned, trust and loyalty are key to developing a business relationship in Korea. Often foreign businesspeople try to get down to business as soon as they meet a potential partner, which can breed distrust. It takes time to get to know your clients and for them to trust and like you. Koreans have a word for a “sixth sense” called nunchi (눈치), or the ability to “read” other people through non-verbal actions, facial expressions, attitude and the general mood. A keen awareness of how others are feeling can make a crucial difference in the success of your business. 10. Aside from your work at MLA, what else keeps you occupied? I’m currently proud to be serving in the important position of vice-chairman of the Australian Chamber of Commerce. When I can find some time, I try to exercise through a variety of sports including hitting the gym, swimming, golfing and more recently skiing. My family, however, comes first, and I try to spend as much time as possible with my 6-year-old son Joseph, who is currently in the 1st grade at Dulwich College here in Seoul. He’s a great kid and a real joy to have —but can be really challenging at times! 10 Magazine February 2011 | 11

history

Ice Fishing circa 1920-1940

When the Han Froze Over

an American naval officer brought a pair of skates with him and skated on the ponds and paddies around Seoul. Another attempt to skate on the river took place in 1889, but much to the dismay of rior to the twentieth century, the Han River generally the Western missionary who tried it, the ice proved to be too thin froze over during the winter. This had the practical effect and dangerous due to the warmer-than-normal winter. of isolating Seoul from the rest of Korea. The junks that Ice from the Han River was also an important part of Korean supplied the city with most of its supplies were unable to sail cultureâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;especially in the palaces. During the Joseon Dynasty, between Chemulpo (modern Incheon) and Mapo and Yongsan, after the river was sufficiently frozen over, ice cutters armed with the two principal river ports serving Seoul. saws would go out and cut blocks of ice, 12 centimeters thick The only other means of transportation between Chemulpo and about 1.8 meters long, and transport them by carts to the two and Seoul was a rough bandit-infested road that was further ham- royal icehouses in Seoul. According to Professor Sung-hee Han, pered by the fact that there were no bridges over the Han River these icehouses were Dongbinggo, which supplied ice for the until the beginning of the twencourtâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s funerals and other formal tieth century. With the ferries rituals and Seobinggo, which prounable to operate, carts and travvided ice for the palace kitchens There was even a black market for ice. elers were forced to make their and nobility. Even today, these are In the winter of 1468/1469, King Yejong way across the river on the ice, cracked down on the corrupt officials who the names of two neighborhoods avoiding the thin spots near the in Yongsan-gu. smuggled ice out of the storage facilities center of the river. Not only was ice used in the and sold it to the common people. For many, however, the freezpreparation and preservation of ing over of the Han was a boon. food, but it was also used to preBird hunters would stalk their game near the few ice-free spots serve the corpses of kings and queens. The body of a Korean where large numbers of birds flocked. Stalwart fishermen would monarch was not given final burial until after a five-month pericut holes in the ice and brave the elements to catch the numerous od of mourning was completed. During the warmer months, the fish in the river. body was kept from decomposing by placing the coffin over a Judging from old photographs taken during large tray of ice. Professor Han estimates that up to 15,000 blocks the early and mid-twentieth century, ice skating of ice were used for this purpose. was also quite popular on the river. Ice skating Outside of the palace, ice was a luxury that few people could was first introduced into Korea in 1884 when afford. Nobles were given bingpae or ice ration cards, that

Ice covering the Han River provided winter recreation and summer refrigeration for Joseon Korea.

10 Magazine February 2011

Words BY Robert Neff

From top: Cutting ice with oxen circa 1900-1920 Cutting ice circa 1910-1930 Sledding on the Yalu circa 1910-1930 All pictures from the collection of Robert Neff.

entitled them to a certain amount of ice according to their rank. There was even a black market for ice. In the winter of 1468/1469, King Yejong cracked down on the corrupt officials who smuggled ice out of the storage facilities and sold it to the common people. Westerners living in Korea were another group privileged enough to enjoy refrigeration and even built their own ice houses to store it. In a letter to his son in August 1904, Horace Allen, the American minister to Korea, wrote, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Our ice has given out. A week ago there was a good supply, but when it gets so low it turns in and melts all at once. I am going to build the house up just twice as high for next winter so I can put in as much again.â&#x20AC;? Allen, like many Westerners, was wary of purchasing ice from Korean vendors. Many of these vendors sold ice taken from the river, but others sold ice taken from rice paddies which, considering they were fertilized with night soil (human waste), were deemed unsanitary. Allen preferred to have his servants fill empty kerosene cans with well water and set them outside to freeze. Once frozen, the cans were then heated just enough to allow the block of ice to slide out when the bottom was pounded. Modernization doomed the ice culture of Korea. Global warming has been blamed for the Han River freezing over less often and for shorter periods of time than in the past. Of course, the demand for ice is now satisfied by modern freezers and refrigerators. But even today, large slabs of ice are still used by fishmongers to help keep their products fresh while on open display in the small neighborhood markets throughout Seoul. These large slabs of ice are supplied by the small and increasingly rare shops that sell not only ice but kerosene and gas. These are some of the last remaining traces of Joseon Korea still found today. 10 Magazine February 2011 | 13

A TASTE OF KOREA Netizen’s Picks

Sujebi

수제비

Hand-Torn Pasta W o rds by C i a r a n H i c k e y, e x ecuti v e chef o f the w se o u l wa l kerhi l l

Easy to make and easy to eat, sujebi can keep you warm on cold, rainy days.

t’s safe to say that a great deal of my Korean food learning takes place in our employee cafeteria. With our busy work schedule, it’s difficult to keep up with the myriad of specialty Korean restaurants and regional delicacies, not to mention seasonal dishes and special days. That’s one reason I look forward to my trips to the “green room,” as the criteria is called here, as it gives me a great opportunity to try a ton of different dishes without going too far. This is where I first had sujebi, one of those dishes that, chances are, you may not come across unless you set out to look for it. Sujebi is basically a dish of handtorn pasta cooked in a broth which can contain potatoes, vegetables and seaweed. The broth itself is based on dried anchovies and laver (seaweed), garlic, of course, and onions. It also has a sister dish called kalguksu (칼국수) in which the noodles are cut in a more uniform shape like flat noodles, but we’ll save

10 Magazine February 2011

that for another day. Of course, torn pasta is nothing new: the Italians have been doing it for years. The fact that the pasta is torn puts this dish in the category of easy-to-make dishes and no great skill is needed for most of it, a sure sign of sujebi’s roots in simpler times. It’s a sort of Korean minestrone, if you will. As with most dishes that only require a few steps, the whole key to sujebi is the basic broth. Simmering it slowly for a long period of time is the key to extracting the most f lavors from the ingredients. Of course, not everyone makes it the same way; fresh clams are sometimes used to give a deeper f lavor to the broth. Leeks and scallions are also occasionally thrown in, with the scallions chopped and added at the end. When making the dough, regular flour is generally used, but it can also be made with glutinous rice flour. This makes the dough taste a little like tteok (rice cake) when cooked. Koreans will tell you that sujebi is the perfect rainy day food and is ideal for warming the body against the elements. So if you want to experience the father of all Korean comfort food, wait for the next time you are caught in a downpour close to Insadong, dash into the nearest shelter and spend the afternoon with a hearty bowl of sujebi.

Insadong Sujebi 인사동 수제비 This back-alley Insadong restaurant has gotten the attention of everyone from Japanese students to TV execs. Ample portions of sujebi can be had for only W5,000. When the rain’s really coming down hard, amp up your wet weather response with pajeon (파전, W8,000) and dongdongju (동동주, W4,000). From the main Insadong street, turn in the alley by Sudo Pharmacy (수도약국). Go right at Woorim Hwarang (우림화랑) and stop at the second door. 29-2 Gwanhun-dong Jongrogu, Seoul 02-735-3361

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Boriul 보리울

Traditional décor gives way to a hip vibe in this sujebi joint located a stone’s throw from the youth-oriented Hongdae district. It may look like a café, but the sujebi and boribap (보리밥) here are the definition of good eating. From Hapjeong Stn. (line 2 & 6, ex. 5), veer right and go left at the fork. Boriul is just ahead on the right. 413-16 Hapjeong-dong Mapo-gu, Seoul, 02-325-8915 * * * Nampo Sujebi 남포 수제비

You know you’ve found the genuine article when you see others trying to poach on its success. Past the menu—listing sujebi for the super-low price of W3,000—there’s a message reminding guests that they’ve found Busan’s original, 30-year-old Nampo Sujebi (and not one of its numerous imitators). Find it in Meokja Alley in the Gukje Market. 8-2 2nd floor Changseon-dong 1-ga Jung-gu, Busan. 051-245-6821 Edited by Dav i d Ca r ruth and So n g Le e

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IN THE KITCHEN

Su ng-tae Lee E x e c u t i v e C h e f at M a r r i o t t E x e c u t i v e A pa r t m e n t s W o rds A N D S H OT S by Pa u l M at t h e w s

Cooking for a few friends may be a challenge for most of us, but Chef Lee has handled a few thousand.

xecutive chef Sung-tae Lee is a busy man. Head of the Park Café at the Marriott Executive Apartments in Yeouido, he is responsible for serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. Lee may have his hands full, but he is committed to bringing the best quality meals to his customers, not just satisfying them, but exceeding their expectations. Lee has always been passionate about food. One of his first kitchen memories is serving up fried rice for his school friends at the age of twelve and enjoying the look upon their faces as they ate. However, his start as a professional chef came a little later. His first foray into further education found him studying architecture, and it wasn’t until he returned from his military service and ended up cooking for 2,500 people a day at the Twins Building cafeteria in Yeouido that he decided his future lay in the kitchen. For the last ten years, he has worked for the JW Marriot, building up his skills and developing his own style of cuisine. At the Park Café, he creates European style cuisine with a Japanese twist. He takes the art, simplicity and nutritional balance of Japanese food and incorporates it within his Western dishes. It’s not fusion, but a different approach to cooking. Lee firmly believes that food is not just about taste, but also the environment within which you eat. For the perfect meal, customers should experience food with all their senses and everything needs to be balanced correctly. What about when Lee’s not busy at work? When he has a spare moment, he often heads down to Myeongdong or the night markets to sample the latest food trends. He enjoys wandering round the food stalls and visiting small restaurants, but his favorite hangout is a small cheonggukjang (fermented soybean soup) restaurant in Pilun-dong (필운동) near Gyeongbok Palace. When he cooks at home, he puts as much care and attention into his meals and table settings as he does at work, and his guests always expect something special when sitting at his table. Sung-tae Lee may have started his career a little later than most, but he is proving himself to be a force to be reckoned with. He dreams of creating the best Western restaurant in Seoul and being able to offer his guests a perfect experience. And with his passion and talent, I’m sure his dreams will come true.

Chef Sung-tae Lee’s Grilled Shrimp I ngredients • 50 g Sicilian caponata - 30 g eggplant - 30 g diced red and green pimentos - 20 g diced onion - 2 slices of garlic - 5 g kalamata olives - 5 g capers - 3 g anchovy - 15 ml white wine - 15 ml sherry wine vinegar

- 20 ml Marsala wine (or some sweet wine) - 30 ml tomato sauce

• • • •

3 grilled king prawn 3 grilled baby asparagus 2 fresh lemon slices 1 small handful of baby salad leaves • 1 Tsp basil pesto • 1 Tsp reduction of balsamic

f o r G ri l l ed S hrimp 1. Remove shells from king prawns except for head and tail and make a cut for gutting.

f o r the Cap o nata

2. Mix prawns with oil, pepper and salt and grill.

1. Put oil on the hot frying pan, stir-fry onion, garlic and eggplant, and finally use the wine to flambé the anchovies and capers.

3. Grill asparagus with oil, salt and pepper mixed.

2. Stir-fry paprika and kalamata olives and then boil down with Marsala wine and sherry wine vinegar.

5. Place the caponata on a dish, add the prawns with asparagus, lemons, and baby salad leaves, and finally put the balsamic and basil pesto on both sides of the dish.

3. Mix with tomato sauce.

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4. Add balsamic vinegar to the pot and boil it down two thirds.

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Ex pat Ex pertise

Reliable Clinics for Expectant Mothers W o rds by G r a c e S u n

regnant or know someone that is? An exciting but daunting experience lies ahead, particularly if you are a foreigner that has decided to give birth in Korea. As we all know, choosing an obstetrician and hospital is a confusing task, and this is even more complicated in Korea with its often rigid childbearing practices and customs. Resident fashion writer and new mom Grace has done all the hard work for you – here’s her firsthand account of her experiences with seven different doctors and hospitals in Seoul. This is intended as a guide only, so make sure you check out the clinics for yourself before deciding! CHA H o s p i ta l

style hospital system Hospital located between Yeoksam Stn. (line 2, ex. 7) and Hakdong Stn. (line 7, ex. 4). The VIP clinic for foreigners is located in Cheongdam-dong. kangnam.chamc.co.kr/ic 02-3468-3127

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D r . S u n g ’ s Obs t e t r i c s a n d Gy n e c o l o gy

One of the best women’s hospitals in Seoul, CHA has a great reputation among both l o c a l s a n d fo re i g n e r s. T h e international clinic is both helpful and efficient—the girls will sit in with you during all consultations with the doctor and explain any thing you don’t understand. Not that you will need them to, though, as Dr. Cha speaks excellent English and you will have the option to see him at the Chaum Clinic, a luxury VIP clinic just for foreigners. CHA is also the only hospital that has its own cord banking system, which will store cord blood for 15-20 years. The postpartum care is excellent, with big private rooms and a delivery suite available. Recommended for: those that want a great international clinic and the luxury of personalized service Not recommended for: those that want more of a Western-

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An experienced doctor and the most-visited clinic by foreigners as all the staff speak very good English. Dr. Sung no longer does deliveries, so she will do your prenatal checkups up to 25 weeks and then refer you to a hospital based on your condition. Recommended for: easy, foreigner-friendly and informative service Not recommended for: building

a relationship with your doctor during your pregnancy, as you will be transferred. Located on the 2nd floor of the Hyundai Building in Hannamdong. 02-790-0802

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H o s a n W o m a n ’ s H o s p i ta l

Hosan is a bir thing clinic, which means it is well-priced and only does one thing – delivery. Dr Park speaks near native English and is on call 24 hours a day unlike doctors in other Korean hospitals. Some freedom is allowed within the system, such as allowing the husband to cut the umbilical cord after a c-section. Hosan also has a postpartum care center (sanhu joriwon) –for recovering mothers. Be aware, however, that this hospital is not equipped for certain emergencies such as blood transfusions and in such a situation may transfer patients to another hospital. Recommended for: non-fuss mothers who want to attend a practical and economical birth center. Not recommended for: high risk pregnancies, emergencies Located a 5-minute walk from Apgujeong Stn. (line 3, ex. 2). ladyhosan.co.kr 02-546-3493

Medi Flower Clinic ( f o r m e r ly U B C l i n i c )

If you are looking for a doctor that will give you the time, patience and care you’d expect from a Western doctor, then this is the clinic for you. You will find with some Korean doctors that they’re always in a bit of a rush to get rid of you, but that will not happen here. Dr. Chung is often described as a “midhusband,” and he’s never too busy to discuss your concerns and questions. His birth clinic provides, without a doubt, the best and most homely birthing suites you will find in Seoul. An advocate of hypnobir thing and natural methods, the centre even has a luxury room with a water birthing tub. This is a doctor that will give you as much time as you need, allow you a lot of control over the whole process, and a caring hand throughout labor—all reliably rare in Korea. All this will cost you though. His fees are the highest on this list, so be prepared to pay a premium. Recommended for: natural births, hypnobirthing, water birth Not recommended for: high risk pregnancies Located near Seoul National University Stn. (line 2, ex. 13). mediflower.co.kr (click on English) 02-548-9400

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S a ms u n g C h e i l H o s p i ta l

Grace and Steve’s baby, Jaydon Daniel Chang, was born at CHA Hospital on December 22nd, 2010, measuring 3.31kg and 49.8cm. S h ot by Dy l a n G o l d b y

A n o t h e r to p h o s p i t a l f o r women. It has a great reputation but is crowded and lacks the efficiency in its international clinic that is essential for foreigners. Dr. Kim Moon Yong

Looking for a birthing class or need a doula? Lisa Fincaryk is a certified doula and childbirth educator who offers doula services, hypnobirthing and childbirth classes, as well as breastfeeding education. Lisa is a veteran in Korea, well-versed in Korean, knowledgeable in the hospital systems here–a great person to go to for some advice! birthinginkorea.com, birthinginkorea@gmail.com is an experienced doctor who speaks good English, and Dr. Han works in the international clinic. But beware as this is a very Korean hospital with strict procedures and policies that will often leave you feeling like you are just another number. Recommended for: high-risk pregnancies, Korean speakers Not recommended for: natural births Located in Jung-gu, near Chungmuro Stn. (lines 3 & 4, ex. 1). www.cheilmc.co.kr/ cheilmcenglish/index.html 02-2000-7000

dealing with foreigners Not recommended for: those that want a prestigious and luxurious hospital A 5-7 minute walk from Hannam Stn. (Jungang line). schmc. ac.kr/seoul/eng/index.do 02-709-9158

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S t. M a ry ’ s H o s p i ta l

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S o o n C h u n H ya n g H o s p i ta l

Another general hospital, but one with a difference. SCH is probably the most run-down of all the hospitals here, but it’s one that truly wins foreigners over with its benefits. For one, water birthing is available. It is also the only hospital that will allow husbands to be present in the room during a c-section. There’s a good international clinic here, and Dr. Choi is a friendly and easy-going doctor who speaks great English. If you go with Dr. Chung from Medi Flower (see above) as your obstetrician, he can also birth at this hospital. Recommended for: those that want a lot of flexibility and a hospital that is very used to

A brand spanking new general hospital in Gangnam with a good international clinic and state-of the-art facilities. Dr. Shin is a kind and experienced man; private outpatient rooms are bright and have a view. It’s a rather busy hospital, but there’s a good system in place. Recommended for: high risk, Caesarian births Not recommended for: those that want a smaller, personalized hospital and women’s clinic Located on the campus of the Catholic University of Korea, a short taxi ride from Express Bus Terminal Stn. (lines 3 & 7) and Seocho Stn. (line 2, ex. 7). cmcseoul.or.kr 02-1588-1511

Don’t forget, there’s also other big names like Yonsei Severance Hospital and Assam Hospital, both with a good international clinic and worth checking out as well. Remember – do your research and ask questions. Your baby will thank you for it (in a few years). 10 Magazine February 2011 | 19

Asi an desti nation

Into the Volcanic Heartland of Kyushu W o rds and sh o ts B Y M a t t h e w C r o m p t o n

Visitors to the village of Kurokawa Onsen in Kyushu find a Japan far different from the glittering lights of Shinjuku and the temples of Kyoto.

nboard the #185 Trans-Kyushu Limited Express bound for Aso Station, the immense violence that gave birth to the Japanese home islands seems incredibly remote. As the candy-apple red locomotive draws us slowly into the Kyushu countryside, passing green-gold rice paddies and stands of bamboo, meandering rivers and wooden homes with black tile roofs, I begin, in the air-conditioned comfort of the carriage, to feel slightly drowsy. The earth here, however, is far from asleep. These islands, ripped from the edge of the Eurasian continent some 15 million years ago, still float on a sea of liquid fire; and deep underground, far beneath the

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Sign posted near the summit of Mt. Aso

wheels of this train, lies the enormous volcanic caldera of Mt. Aso. Having erupted as recently as 2008, it is Japan’s biggest active volcano, and with an area of nearly 380 square kilometers, one of the largest in the world. I’ve come here to the volcanic heartland of Kyushu seeking a Japan different from the well-trod temples of Kyoto and neon lights of Tokyo, which visitors tend to reductively label the “Japanese experience.” Back in Tokyo, I’d asked my friend Kohei Kuroda, a VP of Sumitomo Mitsui Bank, what he thought was the best thing about living in Japan. “Mmmm…” he scratched his chin. “Number one, baseball.” – Kohei is a rabid Hanshin Tigers fan – “But number two, definitely onsen. No question.” “Onsen” is the word for a Japanese geothermal hot spring, the greatest tangible benefit to living on the Pacific Ring of Fire, where major earthquakes and volcanic eruptions are a constant

From top: Boardwalk - Aso Crater, Kurokawa Onsen

threat to daily life. Hot water bubbles up directly from the ground in literally thousands of places throughout the Japanese home islands, to be harnessed into steaming public and private baths, which the Japanese have been using for centuries as both therapy and recreation. And here in central Kyushu, heated by the volcanic fire of the Aso caldera, lies what some enthusiasts believe to be the finest onsen town in all of Japan – the village of Kurokawa Onsen. At my hotel in Aso town, a short walk from the train station, I fall to talking with Miyong who, with her husband Yoshi, runs the new Aso Base Backpackers guesthouse there. “Kurokawa Onsen is just a small place, and not so close to the train,” she explains. “So many people don’t even know about it. Before, to visit the town, you had to stay in a ryokan [a traditional Japanese inn], but ryokan are very expensive, maybe 15,000 yen [around $180 USD] or more a night. So five or six years ago, a man in the village had an idea: he organized all the ryokan into a system where people could visit just for the day with an ‘onsen passport.’ It made the village different – good for everyone, not just for businessmen.” Onsen tourism, one must understand, though a backbone of the Japanese domestic travel industry, walks an extremely fine line between exclusivity and over-development. Certain onsen – like central Honshu’s Lamp no Yada – have evolved over time into enclaves for the well-heeled, while countless others have sacrificed their atmosphere and serenity to build towering concrete hotels and streets filled with flashing neon. Kurokawa Onsen village, by contrast, succeeds through the Goldilocks principle – far enough from the rail lines (and pricey enough to stay in) to discourage tourist mobs, but near enough to plentiful cheap lodgings in the town of Aso to be within the reach of budget travelers who, 10 Magazine February 2011 | 21

Asi an desti nation

2 4

1 3 5 6

1 Covered bridge and bamboo trees at Kurokawa Onsen, 2 Shrine at the base of Mt. Aso, 3 Entrance to the baths at IKOI Ryokan, 4 Pathway at Shinmeikan Ryokan, 5 View of the rotenburo at Yamamizuki, 6 A tourist browsing through chunks of sulfur near Mt. Aso

through the onsen passport system, can visit ryokan that would otherwise be closed to them. In a country where costs confine many visitors to well-trod tourist routes, it’s a boon to travelers looking to stretch out and explore.

he next morning, I catch a local bus from Aso Station bound for Kurokawa Onsen. As I disembark there at a roadside shelter, I can hear the village namesake (Kurokawa means “black river”) rushing down in the lush, green valley below. The village is idyllic, a hamlet of stone stairways and dark wood built up along the steep riverbanks, with a smattering of visitors shuffling from bath to bath along the narrow streets in their ornate yukata robes and wooden geta sandals. The experience is delightfully understated: there are no gaudy storefronts, no busloads of tourists, few foreigners, and no price gouging. It’s charming without feeling like it’s trying to be charming, and quaint without being hackneyed. A wooden onsen passport, bought for 1200 yen from the visitor’s center, is my key to any three of the town’s two dozen ryokan onsen baths. I consult my map with recommenda-

10 Magazine February 2011

tions from Miyong back in Aso, and head off toward Yamamizuki ryokan, a 25-minute walk away along a narrow riverside road, and boasting a rare konyoku rotenburo – an outdoor mixed-sex bath. As I shed my clothes in the simple wooden bathhouse and emerge into the bathing area, I am speechless: the setting is picture-perfect. In the noontime air, sunlight filters through a canopy of leaves onto a steaming hot pool constructed of natural volcanic rocks. Steps lead down the rocks to a small waterfall and river, and at the edge of the pool stands a rough wooden pavilion, moss growing out of its sloped roof and water pouring from a spout overhead. The moment is a scene straight out of classical Japan; rinsing myself from a wooden bucket, I wade into the hot pool for a few minutes’ soak, and when the heat becomes unbearable, I pick my way down the rocks and plunge my still-steaming body into the icy river just below the waterfall. Sitting in the cool current with the cicadas going like hundreds of tiny marimbas in the trees all around me, I feel a sudden urge to never leave. Still, the thrill of discovery drives me on: after Yamamizuki, I visit the lovely two-level rotenburo of IKOI Ryokan, hidden from view like a private walled garden, and then head for an hour’s

From top: on the street at Kurokawa Onsen, the baths at Yamamizuki Ryokan

soak in Shinmeikan Ryokan’s unduly famous “cave onsen” – an interesting concept that, practically, reminds the visitor why humans choose not to bathe in caves. In late afternoon, however, dressed and back on the bus headed to Aso, I realize that this experience is incomplete. Mt. Aso itself, the genesis of the baths of Kurokawa Onsen, looms over the town like an enormous Shinto guardian, and it only feels right to pay my respects. In the last hours of daylight, I head by bus up the side of the volcano, and hike out along the crater floor through a barren moonscape of jet-black sand, climbing a field of rough stones to the ridge overlooking the south rim. The ground beneath me is a tortured maze of multicolored strata, and in the distance, the open cone smokes and steams, a small lake of poisoned turquoise in its depths. The austerity of the landscape here feels strange after my day in the baths, their sensual luxury granted by a force that also threatens their complete destruction. I stand for a while in the sulfur-scented wind on the rim of the crater, watching the light drain from the earth as the few remaining cars begin to trail down the mountain. Then I turn myself, walking down towards the town – towards dinner, towards a bed and, perhaps, towards one final bath. 10 Magazine February 2011 | 23

Shot by d a n i e l o ’ s u l l i va n

M arkets of Seou l

Market Eats A Guide to Seoul’s Market Dining Hot Spots Words by Daniel O’Sullivan

d.o.

From braving live octopus to slamming soju with the locals, eating at one of Seoul’s many markets can be a great way to connect with the city’s people and food. But with so much on offer, it can be hard to know where to start. Follow our guide to ensure you make the best of Seoul’s bustling market food scene this winter.

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Gwangjang Market 광장시장 Located at the eastern end of Jongno, this lively cloth and textiles market has been doing brisk trade for over 100 years. From Monday to Saturday, the main concourse comes alive as dozens of vendors get to work serving everything from boiled pig trotters (jokbal, 족발) to steamed blood sausage (sundae, 순대). It’s all worth exploring, but for guaranteed quality eat at one of the mungbean pancakes (bindaetteok, 빈대떡) stalls. These thick, hash brown-like pancakes are made from a rich batter of crushed mung beans, bean sprouts and cabbage. Bindaetteok tastes great dipped in soy sauce and is traditionally accompanied by traditional Korean rice beer (makgeolli, 막걸리). Another dish worth trying here is barley bibimbap. To make it, measured amounts of gochujang, sesame oil and doenjang are mixed with rice, barley, dried seaweed and an abundance of fresh leaves and vegetables. The dish is all about balanced flavors and freshness and qualifies as some of the best bibimbap in the city.

D.O.

Take line 1 to Jongno-5-ga Stn. and get out at ex. 8. It’s also a short walk from lines 3 and 5 at Jongno 3-ga Stn. (ex. 12). Ope n i n g h o u r s : The market is open from 7 am to 7 pm, but the food stalls stay open until around 11 pm. Closed Sundays. P r i ces : bindaetteok: W4,000; barley bibimbap: W4,000. C o n ta ct : 02-2267-0291 Gett i n g t h e r e

Noryangjin Fish Market Shot by dy l a n g o l d b y

노량진 수 산시장

This expansive fish market is a great place to sample some of the freshest seafood in Seoul. The 66,000 m 2 complex contains some 400 individual stalls, and functions as both a wholesale auction and a direct retail business. Dozens of restaurants line the market’s fringes, and most of them will happily prepare anything purchased from the market floor for a small fee. Almost every type of seafood imaginable can be found at Noryangjin, but if you’re having trouble deciding, the baby octopus (jjukkumi, 쭈꾸미) and shrimp (saeu, 새우) are good options. The baby octopus is served still wriggling with sesame oil and gochujang, while the shrimp are grilled in their shells and sprinkled with salt. Both make for a truly memorable dining experience. However, most diners come to Noryangjin for raw fish (hoe, 회). After a little negotiation, your fish of choice can be killed, gutted, and cleaned before being sliced up and served with leaves, soy sauce, and wasabi. As an added bonus, the leftover fish and bones are turned into a wonderful spicy fish broth (maeuntang, 매운탕) to finish off your meal. Gett i n g T h e r e : Take the subway to Noryangjin Stn. Get out at ex. 1 (line 1) or ex. 2 (line 9) and take the footbridge over the railway tracks. Ope n i n g h o u r s : Most shops are open from early in the morning until 9 pm. Restaurants stay open until midnight. P r i ces : Baby octopus: W10,000 for 3; shrimp: around W15,000 per kilo; raw fish: prices start at around W40,000 – 60,000 per fish. C o n ta ct : susansijang.co.kr 02-814-2211 10 Magazine February 2011 | 25

M arkets of Seou l

Namdaemun Market

Gongdeok Market 공덕시장

Namdaemun is Seoul’s largest market selling a huge variety of inexpensive clothes, kitchenware and imported products. Almost every type of Korean street food can be found here, but the market is known for two dishes in particular: kalguksu (칼국수) and steamed hairtail fish soup (galchi jorim, 갈치조림). Kalguksu Street is located near Gate 6 of the market and features a dozen or so snugly packed food stalls inside a warm, covered alleyway. For this traditional summer dish, knife-cut noodles are served in a warm broth loaded with chili, dried seaweed and thinly sliced vegetables. Gochujang adds a little spice to the dish while dried shrimp give it a subtle seafood depth that intensifies towards the bottom of the bowl. Venturing further into the market, visitors can try galchi jorim in the atmospheric Galchi Alley. This narrow, hidden alleyway is a favorite of Japanese tourists and features several restaurants serving the delicacy in well-worn, battered pots. Of these Huirak (희락) is consistently popular and a good choice. It may take a little patience to separate the meat from the bones, but you’ll be glad you made the effort; galchi jorim stands alone in Korean cookery with its thick, sweet, spicy sauce and huge slices of cooked radish. Gett i n g t h e r e : Take line 4 to Hoehyeon Stn. and get out at ex.

D.O.

5. Kalguksu Street is directly across from the exit. To get to Galchi Alley, walk down into the market and take the third left, then turn right into the alley. Ope n i n g h o u r s : Kalguksu Street: 6 am – 9 pm; Galchi Alley: 3 am – 9 pm. P r i ces : kalguksu: W4,000; galchi jorim: W7,000. C o n ta ct : 02-753-2805

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Shot by sc o tt h e ms e y

D.O.

남대문시장

The area around Gongdeok Station is known for the quality of its food, and Gongdeok Market is no exception. Although the produce on sale here is much the same as any local market, the cooked food section is in a league of its own. That’s because Gongdeok Market is home to Jokbal Alley and Jeon Alley. These twin institutions inhabit a tight network of restaurants and corridors on one side of the market. Jokbal Alley specializes in mammoth plates of the eponymous jokbal (족발), a pork dish made by boiling pig trotters in soy sauce and spices. The jokbal arrives sprinkled with sesame seeds and is accompanied by a spicy pork broth, steamed blood sausage and a salty shrimp dip called saeujeot (새우젓). The result is a salty, fatty, spicy feast fit for a king. If that isn’t enough, then a stop by Jeon Alley should definitely fill you up. In addition to various Korean-style pancakes (jeon 전), they serve a huge array of fried snacks (twigim 튀김), similar to Japanese tempura. The best thing to do is to grab a basket and load up on what you like the look of – everything will be finished in the fryer and served piping hot. Gett i n g t h e r e : Take line 5 or 6 to Gongdeok Stn. and get out at ex. 4. The food alleys will be on your right as you walk through the market. Ope n i n g h o u r s : The food section is open late throughout the week. P r i ces : jokbal: W16,000 for a small portion, W20,000 for a big portion; twigim: between W400 – 700 a piece.

D.O.

Hyewha Sunday Filipino Market Despite continued attempts by local authorities to narrow its size and scope, the Hyewha Filipino Market remains a great place to try authentic Filipino food. The market has been running for 15 years and primarily serves the needs of Seoul’s sizable Filipino community, but everybody is welcome. In addition to Filipino goods and sundries, a wide range of food is available that includes fatty longganisa sausage, spring rolls and curries. A good option is the curry plate, which comes with a rotating selection of sweet, creamy curries that will transport your taste buds to South East Asia. While there be sure to grab yourself an empanada or two as well – these samosa-like pastries are stuffed full of tasty meat,

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potatoes and vegetables and make for ideal munching food as you browse the unusual vegetables and imported products. Gett i n g t h e r e : Take line 4 to Hyewha Stn. and get out at ex. 1. The market is a few minutes’ walk from the exit. Sunday 9 am – 5 pm (peak time 3 pm) P r i ces : mixed curry plate: W6,000, spring rolls: W1,000; empanada: W1,000. Ope n i n g h o u r s :

Around the Peninsula

Try the following markets for more fantastic market food around Korea. Seoul

range of stalls. The market is located in Donggu in front of Daejeon Station. 042-221-1033 Gyeongsang Province

Garak Market Located near Jamsil in southeast Seoul, this is the largest market in Korea selling marine, agricultural and livestock products. It has a good seafood section and is a great place to buy fruit and vegetables in bulk. Take line 3 or 8 to Garak Market Stn. 02-3435-0600 Gyeonggi Province

Moraenae Market (Incheon) The specialties here are naengmyeon and seafood. A taxi ride away from Incheon City Hall Stn. (Incheon line 1). imoraenae.com 032-471-1427 Gangwon Province

Jungang Market (Chuncheon) The region’s largest market, this one’s famous for featuring over 30 dalkgalbi restaurants. The market is located in Chuncheon Town Centre. 033254-2558 Chungcheong Province

Jungang Market (Daejeon) A lively food market with a

Jagalchi Market (Busan) Korea’s largest seafood market features a huge selection of fish, crab and shellfish. Also see the article on the next page. Take subway line 1 to Nampodong Stn. (ex. 2) or Jagalchi Stn. (ex. 10). jagalchimarket.org 051-245-2594 Seomun Market (Daegu) A variety of cooked food, fruit and vegetables. Near Seaomun Market Stn. (line 2, ex. 1). 053-256-6341 Jeolla

Yangdong Market (Gwangju) Sample some of Gwangju’s famous food at this traditional market. Next to Yangdong Market Stn. 062-366-0884 Jeju

Dongmun Market (Jeju City) With top-class seafood including abalone, top shell and octopus. Just east of the airport. dm.market.jeju.kr 1588-0708 10 Magazine February 2011 | 27

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M arkets of busan

Beyond the Beach A Day in Downtown Busan

Words by Carlos Escamilla and Bryce Weibley, shots by Bryce Weibley

Often arriving via KTX, many visitors to Korea’s second largest city head straight to one of Busan’s famous beaches. However, a short jaunt from Busan Station will lead one to a world where trendy shopping intersects traditional markets, bizarre sea creatures become the best seafood in Korea, and beautiful hilltop sea views abound. Into the Mix

Head out of Nampo Stn. (line 1, ex. 1) and take the first right, leading you to the main shopping street, Gwangbok-ro. This bustling outdoor mall is lined with brand-name stores. Intersecting Gwangbok-ro to the south is the street stall bonanza of PIFF Square. Locals line up for hotteok (호떡, fried pastry covered with brown sugar and stuffed with nuts), dakkochi (닭꼬치, chicken skewers), and a variety of other delicious street snacks. Look around for a glimpse of the glitz and glamour of PIFF – Asia’s largest film festival. Dozens of copper handprints from international film stars dot the pavement like Hollywood’s walk of fame. Marke t Madness

28 10 Magazine February 2011

Head south across the major crosswalk and let your nose lead you to the looming Jagalchi Market for a bite of some Busan seafood. Jagalchi Market is a point-and-eat aquarium where hardworking locals hack up dinner for regulars and the occasional group of wide-eyed foreigners. Rows upon rows of tanks showcase 300 species of sea creatures creating an incredible – and edible – visual display. The first floor houses live goods while patrons can have their selections prepared in the second floor dining area. Simply point at something tasty in the tank and specify if you would like it

prepared raw (“hway”) or grilled (“bah-beh-kyoo”). Follow your meal with a break from the action on the relaxing seaside plaza behind the main building. After filling your belly, head back north past PIFF Square for some bargain shopping in Busan’s traditional Gukje Market. One can sense Busan’s identity as an international port and hub of exchange in this section. Networks of narrow alleys humming with commerce comprise a vibrant bazaar of textiles, spices, shoes, souvenirs, and various strange edibles. Observe shop owners negotiating with bargain hunters, nosh on gyeranppang (계란 빵, egg pastries) or grab a cup of tea from a rolling food cart, and pick up something nice to send to the folks back home. Park Ple asures

For a break from the bustling markets, head east along the main shopping street to a covered escalator leading to Dragon’s Head Hill Park (Yongdusan Park, 용두산공원 ). This serene hilltop contains an ensemble of attractions crowned by the 120-meter Busan Tower. A trip to the top reveals stunning 360 degree views over downtown, the port, and the ocean. Located at the base of the tower is the Museum of Musical Instruments of the World that displays an impressive collection including a hands-on section with exotic instruments if you feel like jamming. Other attractions within the park include the Yongdusan branch of the Busan Museum of Modern Art, the 25-ton Citizen Bell that famously rings on New Year’s Eve, and a striking statue of the famous Korean hero, Admiral Lee Sun-Shin. Perhaps the most enjoyable thing to do in the park is grab some refreshment from the mart and seek a bench to soak up the view. Dining De lights

For dinner, find your way to the food alley running parallel to Gwangbok-ro. This tight corridor is packed with restaurants, so making a decision might be tough. Some sizzling yakitori skewers from Hinoshogun and a few Asahi draughts will help you unwind after your busy day in downtown Busan. 10 Magazine February 2011 | 29

g oi ng nati ve

Words and shots by Charles Montgomery

The flapping yellow tarp keeps the cold air out and the good times in at these moving eateries.

30 10 Magazine February 2011

Korea’s Covered Wagons When I first arrived in Korea I often walked the back-streets of Daejeon in the frigid winter winds. I was intrigued to see rows of tents, clad in orange or blue-striped plastic with see-through plastic windows. Shivering, I peered through their plastic windows to see seats, tables, food, and people. The people sat in groups with food and drinks, huddling around heaters against the cold outside. I longed to go in: The tents seemed to be oases in the winter, shelter from the snow, and islands of comfort. What were these mysterious places? They were (and are) the famous pojangmacha of Korea, places where any traveler can stop, brief ly or at length, for a bit of inexpensive food, a bracing drink and a convivial atmosphere. Pojangmacha (布帳馬車, “covered wagon”) are something like a restaurant on wheels, a movable bar, or maybe even a psychiatrist’s office. A quick glimpse at Korean television dramas reveals the continuing importance of the pojangmacha to Koreans: hardly a show goes by in which one character or another

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does not repair to the pojangmacha to hang out with friends or to drown their sorrows in a bottle of soju. A pojangmacha can sometimes be confused by Westerners with a street food vendor or other food vendor working out of a tent. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t make this mistake. Koreans all know that a pojangmacha is a place you go to drink, and weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re not talking about juice here. Today some places have even taken to calling themselves, indoor pojangmacha (ě&#x2039;¤ë&#x201A;´í?Źě&#x17E;Ľë§&#x2C6;ě°¨), which have nothing to do with tents or carts. Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re essentially just bars, which have decided to adopt the name to in order to imply the inexpensive, casual atmosphere of the original version.

Origins of an Institution In one sense, pojangmacha are new: They have existed in Korea for fewer than 60 years. But in another sense, they carry on a long Korean tradition. For centuries, Korean peddlers provided goods, services and food by moving to where the customers were and not forcing their customers to come to them. Pojangmacha are merely the latest manifestation of this type of Korean service; fast food and drink that is provided somewhere close to customersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; workplaces and homes. Continued on p. 33. 10 Magazine February 2011 | 31

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Your Portable Pojangmacha Guide

g oi ng nati ve

Worked up enough courage to check out one of the tent eateries? Rip out this page (seriously!) and take it with you for some helpful hints on where to go and what to get.

Part 1 Drinks and Eats D r i n k s It won’t surprise anyone who has been in Korea to discover that the main beverage consumed in pojangmacha is soju. In addition to this beverage of choice, beer and makgeolli (rice beer) are also commonly sold. Other drinks are available, but these three are the holy trinity. Soju 소주, Makgeolli 막걸리, Beer 맥주 E at s As pojangmacha have evolved, so have their menus, but there are some traditional favorites that have proven too popular to change. The first six are typical dishes that have been served for several decades and are still common today. The final three items, more recent additions to the scene, are also much more accessible for most Westerners. 1. Dalkbal 닭발 – chicken feet

Think of dalkbal as the Korean version of buffalo wings: hot, spicy, and chewy. The bones are usually removed from the feet, which are then boiled in soy sauce. Be warned: even folks who can handle spicy food may quail at these. 2. Kkomjangeo 꼼장어 – hagfish

4. Ojingeo hoe/hanchi hoe 오징어회, 한치회 – two kinds of raw squid These are two distinct types of squid, but we can’t tell the difference. They’re served with salt in sesame oil or with gochujang (redpepper sauce). 5. Odeng 오뎅 - fish cake

a bit much, try to think of sundae as the Korean version of haggis. 7. Gyeranmari 계란말이 folded egg This is pretty close to a Western omelette, and if you are accompanied by a picky eater, or one who doesn’t like spicy food, this along with odeng is the safest choice. 8. Jeyuk bokkeum 제육볶음 – spicy stir-fried pork

Made from fish and wheat flour and served on long wooden sticks or in soup. 6. Sundae 순대 – blood sausage This can be a tad spicy for the cooler palate, though it doesn’t hold a candle to the chicken feet (above).

Hagfish is one of the most famous dishes that accompany soju. They’re typically grilled on a charcoal fire and served with vegetables including red and green peppers. It’s supposed to be good for “stamina.” 3. Nogari 노가리 – pollack These fish have been dried in the sun until chewy. They go well with beer.

Pig intestines are filled with chopped vegetables, glass noodles and pig’s blood and served salted with liver slices. If that sounds like

9. Kimchi dubu 김치두부 – kimchi with tofu An extremely popular dish, the cool soft taste of the tofu matches extremely well with the spicier kimchi. The tofu can be a challenge for the chopstick-impaired.

Part 2 Where the Pojangmacha Roam Se o u l In general, you can wander around the Jongno, Euljiro, Namdaemun and Dongdaemun areas. For particular dishes, see the list below. Ahyeon-dong Ahyeon Stn. (line 2, ex. 3) Specialty Odolppyeo (soft pork bones) Daerim-dong Daerim Stn. (line 7, ex. 11) Specialty Dalkdoritang (braised chicken soup) Dongdaemun Alley Dongdaemun Stn. (line 1 & 4, ex. 7). Cross the Cheonggyecheon bridge, make a left turn, and go straight 200 m till the Suhyeop Bank (수협) alley on your right. Specialty Odolppyeo (soft pork bones) Jamsil Jamsil Stn. (line 2, ex. 1), right alley Specialty Dalkbal (chicken feet) Jongno 3-ga Jongno 3-ga Stn. (lines 1 & 5) Specialty Vegetable stir-fry with gopchang (pork intestines) Myeongdong Myeongdong Stn. (line 4, ex. 8) Specialty Korean fast food (tteokbokki, odeng, sundae, shish kebabs) Noryangjin Noryangjin Stn. (line 1, ex. 1) Specialty Kimchi bokkeumbap (fried rice), jumeokbap (rice balls)

10 Magazine February 2011

Yeongdeungpo Market Near the KB Bank at the Yeongdeungpo Market Intersection, 200 m from Yeongdeungpo Market Stn. (line 5, ex. 4) Specialty golbaengi (whelk), honghaptang (mussel stew) Da e j e o n Behind the old City Market, near the Daejeon train station. These are old-school pojangamacha. G wa n g j u Park Town Geumnamro 4 Ga Stn. (Gwangju line 1, ex. 2), takes 10 minutes on foot towards Gwangju Park Specialty Jeyuk bokkeum (stir-fried spicy pork) Bu san In summer, look for pojangmacha around Haeundae Beach. In winter, try the backstreets downtown. Nampo-dong Jagalchi Stn. (Busan line 1, ex. 7), Specialty Seed hotteok (sweet pancakes), ojingeo

muchim (squid salad) Haeundae Bada Town Haeundae Stn. (Busan line 2, ex. 3, 5), 10 minutes on foot Specialty All –you-can-eat seafood Seomyeon Food Alley Seomyeon Stn. (Busan line 2) near Lotte Department store Specialty Korean fast food such as odeng (fish cake) and sundae (blood sausage) Da eg u These pojangmacha are found in the downtown area near the train station. Chilseong Night Market Chilseong Stn. Specialty Jangeo (eel) Bukseong-ro Udon/Pork Bulgogi Alley Daegu Stn. Take a cab, ask for Daegu Bank near Bulgogi Alley. Specialty Pork bulgogi and udon (noodle soup)

Pojangmacha Etiquette • Vegetarians beware: not much in pojangmacha is meat-free (besides the drinks!). Gyeranmari and tofu kimchi are somewhat safe choices for vegetarians. • Pojangmacha are usually cash-only businesses. No credit cards are allowed. • Pojangmacha do NOT have bathrooms. The good news is that pojangmacha are normally near public restrooms (though if you are worried, visit a pojangmacha near a subway station or park). Usually all you have to do is look a bit pained and say “hwajangsil?” (화장실, bathroom) and the proprietor will point you in the right direction. • Yes, that roll of toilet paper hanging in the pochangmacha is your napkin! • If you are cold, drink some of the hot broth that the odeng is cooking in. It’s free!

The The Rules Rules of of Intoxication Intoxication you’re drinking in a pojangmacha, remember the rules of Korean IfIfyou’re drinking in a pojangmacha, remember the rules of drinking etiquette. Korean drinking etiquette. Don’tpour pouralcohol alcoholinto intoaacup cupthat thatisisnot notempty. empty. 11. Don’t 2. If someone pours for you, you pour back forthem. them. 2 If someone pours for you, you pour back for

thecup cupand andififthe theperson personpouring pouringisisolder olderthan thanyou, you, 33. Hold Hold the hold it with two hands. hold it with two hands. same true for pouring a drink; 44. The The same is is true for pouring a drink; if the the person is older you hold the person is older than than you hold the bottle bottle with two hands. with two hands.

youare aredrinking drinkingwith with 55. Finally, Finally, ififyou someoneolder, older,ititisiscustomary customaryto toturn turn someone yourhead headabout about15 15degrees degreesaway awayfrom your fromelder your when elder when you drink. your you drink.

Continued from p. 31. Pojangamacha first began to spring up early in the 1950s in and around the Cheonggyecheon in Seoul. The first pojangmacha were quite different from their modern counterparts. They were small cars and carts, exposed to the elements, which sold small snacks and drinks. Later, some clever merchants began to cover their carts with an orange tarp, provide stools to sit on, and sell small appetizers. This eventually became the norm, with a tent containing a small cart and a handful of stools to sit on. As time went by pojangmacha began to get larger and to feature tables. In the 1970s pojangmacha flourished in Seoul as the palli-palli (“hurry up”) culture of Korea kept Koreans at work late. As Seoulites streamed out of work, they stopped at pojangmacha for a quick drink and a bite to eat. Pojanchmacha menus became increasingly diverse and the seating became even more comortable.

The New Pojangmacha Since just before the turn of the century, pojangmacha have undergone a major evolution. In areas like Jongno in Seoul, pojangmacha now offer extensive menus and there are even some with table service, an idea that was never envisioned by the creators of the original pojangmacha. Some pojangmacha in Jongno and other areas now offer set menus, with a combination of individual snacks put together in one plate. These inexpensive sets (as low as W2,000) feature traditional Korean food such as gimbap (rice rolls), tteokbokki (rice cake in pepper sauce) and sundae (Korean blood sausage). In addition, pojangmacha have begun to specialize, meaning that with a bit of research you can now find a much wider range of foods. Finally, in a pojangmacha-esque improvisation, some restaurant owners tack on an orange tented section to the front of their establishments to keep out the winter cold.

Tent of Plenty So, the next time you’re wandering the streets of your city or town and feeling a bit thirsty or peckish—just look for that flash of orange plastic. Inside you will find a remarkable array of food and a simple but potent range of alcohol. If you don’t speak Korean, don’t worry: everything should be laid out on the cart and you can simply point to the food you want prepared. And in the event that there’s a menu to navigate, bring along our handy portable pojangmacha guide (previous page) for some ordering suggestions. Stepping through the door for the first time can be daunting, but once inside, you’ll find the slight risk is worth it! 10 Magazine February 2011 | 33

E dited by DAV I D CA R RU T H a n d s u n k y u ng L e e

Go Nuts for Noodles

Courtyard by Marriott Seoul Times Square Escape the winter chill this February at the Noodle, Salad and Dessert Bar in MoMo Café, where talented chefs will use fresh ingredients to create a wide variety of noodle dishes. (W29,000++). With the All in One Package, you can combine your noodle noshing with relaxation at the Courtyard Seoul Times Square over the Lunar New Year’s holiday. The package gets you a night’s stay in a deluxe room and breakfast for two in addition to a complimentary inroom movie, a voucher for a bottle of wine at MoMo cafe, and a culture certificate. Jan 30th - Feb 6th, W199,000++. courtyardseoul.com 02-2638-3000

Gifts for the Lunar New Year JW Marriott Seoul JW Marriott Seoul is helping you find the perfect Lunar New Year’s gift (Jan 10th - Feb 2nd). The Deli Shop is offering a variety of gift sets that will express your appreciation through carefully selected delicacies. The Deli Shop’s most popular gift is a premium wine set (W68,000 - W129,000). The twobottle boxed sets from Australia, Chile and America are sommelierselected and 30% off the standard price. There are over 30 other sets available (W25,000 - W990,000) including abalone, yellow corvina and other seafood. 02-6282-6738 marriott.com

Bunny Fun for the Holidays

Imperial Palace The Imperial Palace Hotel has prepared a holiday package, “Oh My Bunny Package” (Jan 29th Feb 6th, W203,000++) which includes traditional Korean sweets and cookies, access to the fitness center and indoor swimming pool, and breakfast for two. Twenty varieties of sushi kaiseki and other varieties of surprising offerings are on the menu. Lunch is W100,000++, and dinner is W150,000++. imperialpalace.co.kr 02- 3440-8000

Astoria Hotel

Comfortable & Cozy Valentine’s Day Package Looking for a romantic place to impress your loved one? Astor ia Hotel offers you a Valentine’s Day package from Febr uar y 11th - 15th. Book ahead of time for a cozy double bedroom and unlimited glasses of red wine at New York Italian restaurant Bella Coolla 63 on the first night of your stay. If this was not enough to complete your Valentine’s Day plans, stop by Nescafe at Chungmuro the next day to get a chef-made tiramisu provided by Astoria. W155,000+. 02-2268-7111

10 Magazine February 2011

Sweet Love Letter and Lunar New Year Package

InterContinental Seoul The Grand InterContinental Seoul, now known as the Grand InterContinental Seoul Parnas, is helping guests send a sweet message to their loved ones for Valentine’s Day through the Sweet Love Letter promotion (W18,000 - W28,000, 02-5597653). If love’s not in the air, though, try out the Grand InterContinental Seoul Parnas and InterContinental Seoul COEX’s Lunar New Year Package. Available Jan 28th - Feb 6th, it allows you to enjoy unbeatably low rates starting at just over W100,000 as well as complimentary movie tickets. seoul.intercontinental.com 02-3430-8888

Chocolate Mousse Delight

Marriott Executive Apartment Seoul This Valentine’s Day, head to MEA’s spa for the Chocolate Mousse Delight treatment, available during the month of February. A chocolatechip scrub is the first step in a program that is delicious in every sense. Cacao, sugar, coconut, and warm, creamy chocolate mousse are in the body wrap and massage recipes that follow. W160,000++ for 1 person, full 100-minute treatment, W280,000++ for couples. measeoul.com 02-2090-80701

+ = subject to 10% VAT, ++ = subject to 10% VAT and 10% service charge

Romantic Valentine Dinner for Couples

The Most Romantic Room

Grand Hyatt Seoul Valentine’s Day is the perfect time to indulge in a romantic getaway, and the Grand Hyatt Seoul has the ideal romantic package for you. With this package, stay in a Grand Room filled with romantic roses, balloons, red wine and “love” shaped chocolates to celebrate the occasion with that special someone. W305,000 ++. grandhyattseoul.co.kr 02-799-8888

Oakwood Premier Coex Center The Oakwood Premier Coex Center in Seoul presents three different courses on Valentines’ Day for couples. The package includes 4 to 7 different cuisines. In addition, two glasses of G.H. Mumm Cordon Rouge champagne, composed of a divine blend of citrus, caramel, and nut flavors, will be offered as a welcome drink. W100,000 - W150,000 for two. oakwoodpremier.co.kr 02-3466-7203

Romance Blossoms

Walkerhill Seoul Couples visiting the Walkerhill Seoul this year can take advantage of the new W Dreams in Romance package, which includes a romantic W balloon decorating the Wonderful Room, a special course dinner at the Restaurant Kitchen or Namu, and a present of Ralph L au r e n Rom a nc e p e r f u me (W465,000++). And for those ready to tie the knot, the Wedding Night package gives honeymooners the treatment they deserve: a night in the Cool Corner, Veuve Cliquot champag ne, chocolate, and a W T-shirt. (W540,000++). walkerhill.com 02-2022-0000

Michelin Star Chef Hiroshi Haraguchi

The Ritz-Carlton Seoul In celebration of its 16th anniversary, The Ritz-Carlton Seoul’s European restaurant The Garden has invited Michelin star chef Hiroshi Haraguchi (Feb 22th - 26th). Guests will enjoy his culinary skills in dishes feat uring Italianstyle steak. Highlights will include a steak dish with the finest Australian beef, song-i mushrooms and red wine garnished with Parmesan cheese. Lunch is W60,000++, dinner is W80,000++ - W100,000++. ritzcarlton.com 02-3451-8271 10 Magazine February 2011 | 35

Gastronomic News Edited by A ngel a lee a n d Dav i d Ca rru th

F EBRua ry 2011

Amandier Prepares Macaron and Chocolate Promotions Amandier is offering a great deal on macarons through Feburary 28th. Amandier’s macarons are handmade from fresh, high-quality ingredients and come in a variety of flavors. Through February, the more you buy, the more you save: buy 6 macarons and get 2 free; buy 12 and get 6 free; buy 24 and get 24 free. Who can resist this delicious and sugary bargain? With Valentine’s Day around the corner, Amandier is also planning a chocolate promotion. There will be chocolates for him and for her, big heart-shaped chocolates, and heart-shaped macarons. Couples, dessert lovers and foodies will enjoy this limited-time offer from Amandier. 02-736-9651

Bulgogi Goes Global with Citi Cards and On The Border On The Border, a partner of Citi Cards Premium Dining, is a Mexican restaurant that serves classic homemade Mexican dishes. It has recently announced that it will introduce a traditional Korean bulgogi menu. Enjoy Mexican bulgogi tacos and burritos within the lively and exotic ambience of the restaurant. The chewy wheat tortillas used in the tacos and burritos are baked at the store. With Citi Cards Premium Dining, Citi Cards customers (including Citi-BC card and corporate cards) can enjoy a 10% instant discount at On The Border starting January 2011. More information is available at On The Border’s homepage (www.ontheborder.co.kr).

bu2 Lounge Throws Martini Party Sortino’s Bolognese Pasta with Hanwoo Tenderloin With so many Italian restaurants in Korea, what sets Sortino’s Cucina apart from the others? When you step into the restaurant, you experience the genuine, uncompromising taste of Italy in Korea. The talented chef at Sortino’s Cucina, Santino Sortino, regularly travels to Italy to deliver genuine Italian cuisine from the homeland to the tables of his restaurant in Seoul. This winter, he is cooking up Bolognese pasta made with the finest cuts of Hanwoo tenderloin and the freshest ingredients. This is an opportunity for locals and foreigners to experience homemade Italian pasta at Sortino’s Cucina, little Italy in the center of Seoul. 02-797-0488

10 Magazine February 2011

The fun begins before the week comes to an end at bu2’s martini party. This boutique lounge, which stands out for its art exhibitions, fine dining, and weekend par ties, is taking it up a notch with this we ekly event, held every Thursday from 7 pm – midnight. During that time, martinis made with a Skyy vodka base sell for W6,000. DJ Wu and DJ Yup provide the soundtrack for your pre-weekend romp. From Itaewon Stn. (line 6, ex. 2), bu2 lounge is about 200m on the left. 02-3785-3080, 010-5175-8210 for table reservations.

Expat News Marriott’s Robert Stark Named Manager of the Year JW Marriott Seoul General Manager Robert Stark was recently named Asia Pacific General Manager of the Year 2009 by Marriott International, Inc., as well as winning two more regional awards: Associate Leadership Excellence - Most Improved and Financial Excellence. Since becoming general manager in May 2007, Stark and his team have achieved tremendous improvements every year, bringing the hotel into the ranks of the Asia Pacific’s top three in terms of both performance and guest satisfaction. “This recognizes all of our 800+ associates that provide outstanding service to our customers each and every day,” Stark said. “I am proud to work with each and every one of them.” Marriott International, Inc. operates 130 hotels in the Asia Pacific and annually selects Best General Manager in 11 different areas.

Jaseng Hospital Opens Two New Locations

Officially designated by the Korean Ministry for Health, Welfare and Family Affairs as a “Spine Specialized Oriental Medicine Hospital,” Jaseng Hospital of Oriental Medicine continues to expand with the opening of two new locations in Jamsil and Ulsan. Both clinics help patients with highly specialized, non-surgical treatments using state of the art equipment. The Jamsil branch will specialize in treating cervical discs and youth/female spinal problems, while the Ulsan branch will address cervical disc cure, herniated disc, and jaw problems. Both clinics are open Monday to Friday from 9 am - 6 pm. However, unlike the international clinic in Gangnam, the new branches do not offer coordination in English. Though foreigners are welcome, they will need to speak Korean or bring someone along who does. jaseng.net 1577-0006

ANZA Raises Money for Flood Victims By now, most are probably aware of the tragic floods in Queensland, A u s t r a l i a , a n d A NZ A (Australian & New Zealand Association of South Korea) has also been affected by this tragedy. Former committee member Jennifer Thorncraft (wearing the white cardigan in the photo) and her son were airlifted to safety last month, while their husband remained missing. On January 18th, the ANZA Global Cafe held a fundraising event for victims of the flooding at the Paris Grill Bar and Cafe at the Grand Hyatt Hotel. Those who could not make the event but still wish to donate money to the Flood Appeal through ANZA can email Jane Cassels anzakoreatreasurer@gmail.com for details. 10 Magazine February 2011 | 37

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Bronze Guard of Honor Wuwei, Gansu Province, China, 3rd c. B.C.–A.D. 3rd c., carriage length 36 cm, horse height 40 cm.

Gold belt clasp Karashar, Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region, China, 1st--2nd c., L: 9.8 cm.

Hawk head ornament Yongdeng, Ningxia Hui Autonomous Region, China, 5th--3rd c. B.C., H: 5.5 cm.

Eastern Roman gold piece Guyuan, Ningxia Hui Autonomous Region, China, 6th c., 1.5 cm in diameter.

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Gold belt clasp Pyongyang, Korea, 1st c., L: 9.4 cm.

Memoir of the Pilgrimage to the Five Kingdoms of India Mogao Caves, Dunhuang, Gansu Province, China, 8th c., W: 358 cm, L: 42 cm.

Through April 3rd

N at i o n a l M u s e u m o f Ko r e a

The Silk Road and Dunhuang: A Trip Through the Western Region with Hyecho Trade between China and the West is a subject of much discussion today, but this exhibit takes us back to how such trade was conducted thousands of years ago: on the Silk Road. You’ve probably heard of Marco Polo, the Venetian trader famous for his vivid portrayal of the Silk Road in the late 13th century. But he wasn’t the first to write about the ancient route. Nearly five hundred years earlier, the Korean Buddhist monk Hyecho traveled on some of the same roads and ventured into the area of Central Asia formerly known as the Western Region, today the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region in China. The account that Hyecho wrote of his travels in 727 CE is the Memoir of the Pilgrimage to the Five Kingdoms of India (往五天竺國傳 ), highly regarded for the insight it gives into the political, economic, and cultural context of India and Central Asia in the 8th century. Though lost for centuries, a fragment of the text Continued on page 53

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Buried Directed by Rodrigo Cortés It’s 2006 and Paul Conroy (Ryan Reynolds), a contractor working in Iraq, wakes up to find himself trapped in a coffin with only a lighter, a phone, a few other essentials—and no idea how he got there or whether he can get out. We spend the next frantic ninety-five minutes with him as he uses his wits to try and escape. Buried takes its place as one of my favorite films of 2010. Director Rodrigo Cortés is able to sustain tension throughout the whole movie, managing to find the most remarkable shots and angles inside the coffin, while his use of light sources is inspired. Ryan Reynolds gives an incredible performance capturing the fear, frustration and anger that Conroy is feeling, and I found myself gripped for the whole running time. A genuinely scary, uncomfortable experience that preys on our deepest fears and makes some interesting commentary on the war in Iraq. If you’re a fan of horror, then I urge you to seek out this nasty little gem.

Movies

by Pa u l M atthe w s

Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows: Part 1

The Last Godfather

Directed by Hyung-rae Shim After the disastrous D-War, Hyung-rae Shim is back with a new “global human comedy.” Resurrecting his old comic TV creation from the 1980s, he plays Young-gu, a rather old Korean orphan who arrives in 1950s New York to visit his Mafia boss father (Harvey Keitel) and take over the family business. His father expects great things from his long-lost son, but Young-gu is an accident-prone, good-hearted fool who falls for the daughter of his father’s nemesis and causes all sorts of trouble for the gangsters of the Big Apple as he stumbles and bumbles his way through Manhattan. Despite a dodgy script, over-the-top acting (Keitel really hams it up as Don Carini), some very old jokes and tired slapstick, The Last Godfather manages to entertain. The film feels like an homage to the black and white comedies of the early twentieth century. If you’re a fan of the Three Stooges, then you’ll get a lot of laughs out of this silly movie, but if you’re not used to theatrical acting and very broad physical comedy then you may find yourself bored. I can honestly say that, despite all its problems, I enjoyed myself. Younggu manages to charm with his slapstick antics, though you do have to leave your cynicism behind and keep your rose-tinted 40 | 10 Magazine February 2011

spectacles on. Hyung-rae Shim may not be Korea’s best filmmaker, but he knows how to put on a show and the Korean audience I saw this comedy with seemed to love every minute of it. * * *

Directed by David Yates This seventh film in the Harry Potter franchise takes us away from Hogwarts and into the cold and wet wilderness as Harry, Ron and Hermione set off to find the Horcruxes that contain pieces of Voldemort’s soul. If you have no idea what this last sentence means, then you would be best to stay away from this sequel. Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows: Part 1 is definitely for fans only. The movie tackles the first half of the seventh book, and consequently has little action and a lot of tension building. There are some good set pieces (the opening chase sequence with Harry and Hagrid doing their best to outrun Voldemort on a flying motorbike is great fun) and superb acting from the three leads and the starstudded British cast (special mention goes to Helena Bon ham Car ter for her deranged turn as Bellatrix). However, it does drag on at times and after a while, watching three teenagers arguing in a tent gets a little dull. It sets us up for a fantastic final film in the series, but, by itself, this addition to the Potter collection is just a little too damp and dreary for my liking.

NATIONWIDE CALENDAR New This Month

Edited by s o n g le e and dav i d ca r ruth

NATIONWIDE

The Private Lives of Pippa Lee USA Feb 1st Starring Robin Wright Penn, Blake Lively, Keanu Reeves; directed by Rebecca Miller. When do gossip girls become desperate housewives? This is the theme of the film adapted by writer-director Rebecca Miller (Personal Velocity) from her own novel. When Pippa (Wright Penn) and her much older husband settle in a retirement community, she recollects her troubled past. Teenage flashbacks showcase the budding talents of Lively (Gossip Girls). pippalee.com

127 Hours 127 Hours USA/UK Feb 10th Starring James Franco; directed by Danny Boyle. In May 2003, an ordinary hike turned into a nightmare when Aron Ralston was trapped by a falling boulder. This movie by Danny Boyle (his first since Oscar-winner Slumdog Millionaire) faithfully captures the inherent drama of Ralston’s 127 harrowing hours. James Franco (Spiderman) excels in his depiction of what reviewer Bob Bloom describes as “courage, determination, and the will to live no matter the cost.” 127hoursmovie.com Tangled USA Feb 10th Starring Mandy Moore, Zachary Levi, Donna Murphy; directed by Nathan Greno and Byron Howard. As Tangled is the 50th cartoon in the Walt Disney Animated Classics series, it’s only appropriate that a princess should be present. However, from the moment that Rapunzel (Moore) takes bandit Flynn Rider (Levi) captive in the tower, you know the name isn’t the only difference from the Brothers Grimm story. adisney.go.com/disneypictures/tangled The Way Back USA Feb 17th Starring Colin Farrell, Jim Sturgess; directed by Peter Weir. Peter Weir (Dead Poets Society, The Truman Show) takes on a truly wintry theme with this story of a Russian, American, and Pole who escape from the Soviet Gulag and begin a year-long trek spanning thousands of miles. The screenplay is based on the muchdisputed memoirs of Polish lieutenant Sławomir Rawicz, who may or may not have actually made “the long walk” that he describes. Black Swan USA Feb 24th Starring Natalie Por tma n, V inc e nt Cas se l, Mila Kunis; directed by Darren Aronofsky. This horror film by Darren Aronofsky returns to the theme of insanity he explored in Requiem for a Dream. Nina Sayers (Portman) is a sexually repressed and emotionally unstable ballerina given the leading role in Tchaikovsky’s Swan Lake. Her attempt to take on the conflicting roles of the innocent White Swan and the sensual Black Swan sends her in a maddening spiral downward. blackswan2010.com Feb 10th Burlesque US Drama/musical. Cher, Christina Aguilera, Alan Cumming; dir. Steve Antin. burlesquethemovie.com

Dates are subject to change.

Feb 10th Children 아이들 Korea Thriller/crime. Seung-ryong Ryu, Dong-il Seong, Jin-mo Joo; dir. Yong-woo Park. Feb 10th Paris 36 France Drama/ musical. Gérard Jugnot, Clovis Cornillac, Kad Merad; dir. Christophe Barratier. Feb 10th Sanctum US Adventure. Rhys Wakefield, Allison Cratchley, Christopher Baker; dir. Alister Grierson. sanctummovie.com Feb 17th Agora Spain Adventure/ drama. Rachel Weisz, Max Minghella, Oscar Isaac; dir. Alejandro Amenábar. agorathemovie.com

Feb 17th Alpha and Omega US Animation/adventure. Hayden Panettiere, Christina Ricci, Justin Long; dir. Anthony Bell, Ben Gluck. alphaandomega3d.com

Feb 17th I Love You 그대를 사랑합니다 Korea Romance. Sun-jae Lee, So-jung Yoon, Sumi Kim; dir. Chang-min Choo. Mar 3rd The Adjustment Bureau USA Romance/thriller. Matt Damon, Emily Blunt, Terence Stamp; dir. George Nolfi. theadjustmentbureau.com TBA Confessions Japan Drama. Takako Matsu, Masaki Okada, Yoshino Kimura; dir. Tetsuya Nakashima. TBA Re-encounter 혜화, 동 Korea Indie/Drama. Da-in Yoo, Yeon-suk Yoo; dir. Yong-geun Min.

10 Magazine February 2011 | 41

Bruce Springsteen

Nelly Furtado

There really isn’t much more to add to the largerthan-life musical institution that is Bruce Springsteen. His t renchant, touching, and sometimes prickly poetical and musical exploration of American life in the last three decades of the 20th century has established him as a true original. Yet, the man never got to tell the whole story he originally envisaged (lawyers, lawsuits, songwriting rights… ’nuff said). That oversight has now been corrected with the release of The Promise. Basically conceived–and executed—as a paean to American Rock ‘n Roll, The Promise spans the gap between 1975’s Born to Run and 1978’s Darkness on the Edge of Town. These twenty-one tunes show Springsteen at his inquisitive and compelling best, with heartfelt reflections from a who’s who of American R&R royalty: Elvis, Roy Orbison, Buddy Holly, and The Byrds (to name a few), delivered in The Boss’s inimitable style: what’s not to like? Musical Americana writ large = essential.! by M i ch a e l B e rry

Ca na d ia n songst ress Nelly Furtado has certainly stacked the retrospective decks with a cornucopia of indie pop delights on this two-disc album. Anyone who considers themselves a fan probably has all–or most–of these tunes already (although it is nice to have them in one place). Anyone not familiar with the singer and who wants to see why many Canadians love to extol Nelly’s virtues should consider picking this up. She seamlessly blends an assortment of her better-known music with some more poignant sounds derived from her Portuguese heritage, even adding sounds and styles from some giants of the Lusophone music world such as Caetano Veloso (“Island of Wonder”) and Juanes (“Te Busque,” “Fotografia”). Twenty-five tunes, and a plethora of established musicians/singers (Michael Buble, Timbaland, Tiesto, James Morrison) stepping up to lend a hand; even Keith Urban puts in an appearance on “In God’s Hands.” Perhaps a tad quiet for those who like things loud and proud, but ideal for the mellowby M i ch a e l B e rry heads!

The Promise Columbia

The Best of Nelly Furtado Geffen

GD & T.O.P

GD&TOP YG Entertainment In their f irst f ull-length album, G-Dragon and T.O.P abandon their pop peers for a self-described “ghetto electro” that channels rap-based hooks closer to Nassun and PSY than their more sappy compositions for Big Bang. Though the two vocals never completely complement each other, the songs replace sentimentality with an array of synths and Auto-Tune to create overwhelmingly highenergy club tracks with hypnotic choruses. Like a mantra, the album’s hooks have one purpose: to flush the mental clutter of everyday life. The rest of the album rides a smooth wave of chill tracks like “Oh Yeah,” featuring vocals from 2NE1 member Park Bom, and “Baby Good Night.” When T.O.P. raps about “Turn It Up” being “a message to seduce you,” he’s really talking about the entire album, which carries its emotions out in the open. This one’s big enough to share on the dance floor, yet small enough to fit by A n n a O r z e l in an iPod.

Books Tom Clancy (whoever “Tom Clancy” is, since in this case he is “working” with his frequent collaborator Grant Blackwood) is nothing if not reliable. In his latest book, Dead or Alive, he not only reprises many of his previous themes, including revenge against bad guys and nuts-and-bolts espionage and realpolitik, but he also assembles an all-star cast of characters drawn from his recent books. If you are a return reader, the characters will be familiar, but if this is your first Clancy book, it also works well as a standalone. The story is a roman à clef with the evil “emir” standing in for Osama bin Laden, but it’s satisfying nonetheless. At 960 pages, this book will keep you busy for a while. W29,530, 960 pages Life, by Keith Richards, is an interesting read despite most of the stories here having been told elsewhere. It’s also an odd historical artifact in the sense that Richards quite clearly stopped adapting to anything new at some point in the 1960s or 70s (as his mu42 | 10 Magazine February 2011

sic demonstrates). Women never go beyond “chicks” and Richards seems purposely obtuse as to how others regard him. Richards’ tone is somewhere between amazing and appalling: he is detailed, matter of fact, and sometimes shockingly detached. As the drugs, sexcapades, and bodies pile up like a Who concert in Cleveland, Richards never quite seems to connect to anything. Well, besides his music, and perhaps that is the point. W30,590, 576 pages Brian Miller’s The Village Across The Sea: An Expat’s View of Jeju is an extended photo-essay on Jeju Island. It has impressive heft and size, and is stuffed with Miller’s excellent photos. The book has eight

chapters, including “Mothers of the Sea,” a brief and poignant (primarily black-andwhite) study of the female divers of Jeju, an amazing cultural treasure that few outside of Jeju are aware of. Pictures of expats are also amusing, primarily as their hairstyles and clothes reveal that Keith Richards is not the only one hopelessly trapped in the 1970s. Two small cavils: the printers seem to have maximized the saturation of the photos without adjusting levels or contrast, and the design is dark. Funded by the Jeju provincial government, t h e b o o k i s n’t currently for sale, but you can contact the author at baraka.zenfolio. c o m t o i nq u i r e about get t i ng a copy. 185 pages. Haenyeo – One of Jeju's legendary female divers © Bri a n M i l l e r

Tech

by S ta ff o r d L u ms d e n

These five Korean bloggers offer the latest on the Korean tech scene, if you’re bold enough to brave a different language environment.

B r u c e T u r n s o n t h e Ov e n W i t h o u t H i s W i f e K n ow i n g

brucemoon.net While his wife might lament his devotion to technology, the titular Bruce spends nearly equal amounts of time talking about food and cooking as he does the latest technology. Here you will also find some more in depth editorial-like posts on the state of tech in Korea. PCPI n s i d e pcpinside.com This blogs looks at how the PC and computing continue to move out of the office and into the living room and onto the street. Along with examining the Galaxy Tab’s prowess as a comic

nationwide Hotlines Emergency 119 Police 112 Directory Assistance 114 Medical Information Center 1339 This is a 24-hour, nationwide hospital information service available in English, Korean, Chinese and Japanese.

Citibank citibank.co.kr Deutsche Bank Bank of America Bank of China BNP Paribas bnpparibas.co.kr HSBC

These five barely scratch the surface, but are a good place to start if you are interested in more than just what English bloggers are saying about the tech scene in Korea. With more access and the language skills, these guys get the scoop before their English speaking counterparts, giving their readers, and now you, the inside track.

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Major Foreign Banks American Express americanexpress.co.kr 02-2000-8100 Australia & New Zealand Banking Group 02-3700-3100 China Construction Bank ccbseoul.com 02-6730-1718

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10 Magazine February 2011 | 43

NATIONWIDE

I like to think that I am reasonably up to date when it comes to technology. I am an early adopter of new technology, often going to long (and expensive) extremes to acquire new gadgets and other tech goodies. But my efforts pale in comparison to a hardcore cadre of Korean bloggers who get their hands (and cameras) on the latest and hottest technologies, sometimes before the general public does. And while these blogs are written in Korean, they’re still worth the effort, even if it is through the filter of Google Translate. Many of them link to English-language sites, their basic information is generally easy to discern, and the care they take in presenting their finds and accompanying them with high-resolution images makes them worth reading. Here are five Korean technology blogs worth checking out:

book reader, PCPInside covered the recent story of a 13-year-old Korean girl suing Apple about its iPhone after-sales care and visited with Samsung SDI to see how their environmentally friendly battery works. RadioKidz@LifeLog neoearly.net RadioKidz @LifeLog recently checked out how good the wifi coverage in Seoul is compared to what the phone companies have been saying and has reviews of everything from PMPs (personal media players) to Sony’s NEX-series cameras. Great hires photos of the subjects being discussed, too! i A p p B o x iappbox.com Head here for just about everything you need to know about the latest smartphone apps, from the latest iPhone game Infinity Blade to KoRail’s new “Glory” app which provides detailed time tables and ticketing information for Korea’s rail services. H a k J u N i D o t C o m poem23.com This one’s all about Android and seemed to start the rumours in the Korean tech blogging community that KT’s love affair with Apple and its iPhone might be over with the former introducing more and more Android Handsets over the last year. Also worth noting is HakJuNi’s review of the Motorola Defy, a dust and waterproof Android phone that gets put to the test in this blogger’s bathroom!

SEOUL Meatball Gumbo

Food Review

Cajun on Another Planet Shy Bana

W o rds and sh ots b y J o e m c p h e r s o n

This Seorae Village eatery claims to serve authentic Southern food but fails to deliver.

friend told me that a long time ago she ordered a baked potato at a restaurant in Korea. What came out was a potato with sweet whipped cream on top. She figured that the owners had seen a picture of a baked potato and assumed the sour cream was whipped cream. It’s not quite that bad at Shy Bana, which promotes itself as a Cajun Southern American restaurant, but they do make some baffling culinary choices. Set up as a tiny, trendy restaurant in Sorae Village in Banpodong, Shy Bana has some strong points. It has great potential. The fried soft shell crab salad contains glorious chunks of the molted crustacean that feel as decadent as a lobster and foie gras burger (which a certain local hotel does, in fact, serve). They can also take pride in the fact that they have some of the best coleslaw on the peninsula. Yet to an Alabama native who ate collard greens in preschool, this ain’t soul food (and no, I refuse to make a “Seoul” pun there). The buttermilk biscuits tasted a bit off, as if they had been frozen at one time. The macaroni and cheese was the greatest offender, consisting of just macaroni and Velveeta. The sad irony is that it likely would be cheaper to make a traditional macaroni and cheese in Korea than using Cheese Whiz. The aforementioned soft shell crab salad would have been perfect if it hadn’t been drizzled in what they called a “wine reduction” that tasted more like grape soda syrup. Then there’s the most baffling (but somehow popular) dish, the meatball gumbo. Yes, I said, “meatball gumbo.” A gumbo is ordinarily a darkened roux—flour and oil cooked until dark brown—combined with stock, vegetables and seafood, chicken or sausage. What came out can best be described as Italian chili. The roux had been replaced with to44 | 10 Magazine February 2011

mato sauce. I have never seen a gumbo and a tomato in the same room together. Rather than being a stew, it was more like a curry sauce and was treated like curry rice. In this tomato sauce were kidney beans, sliced hot dogs and two meatballs. It had the unsettlingly sweet flavor you might expect if you bit into glazed garlic bread. I wonder if the folks behind Shy Bana have ever been to the South or picked up a Southern cookbook. Or did they just randomly attach Southern and Cajun names to their food? If they were a car dealership, they could be sued for bait-and-switch. But since they aren’t, you’ll just have to be warned that the food at Shy Bana is about as Southern as Korean-Chinese food is Chinese. 10 Magazine reimburses reviewers for their meals and never notifies restaurants that they will be reviewed.

Buttermilk Biscuits English menu Not allowed Some items but not many On the first floor but very narrow seating Accepted Soft shell crab and some of the dishes aren’t so bad

Soft-Shell Crab Salad Prepare to be disappointed if you want a taste of home W8,000-W22,800 02-536-4281 104-4 Banpo-dong, Seocho-gu Weekdays: 11:30 am – 3:30 pm, 5:30 – 9:30 pm; weekends: 11:30 am – 9:30 pm

FOODIE FINDS

Legendary Japanese Diner

Can’t Stand the Cold? Get Into the Kitchen

The sushi joints always get the attention. Yet the place in Seoul’s Japan-town in Ichon with the lines out the door is Bo Chun. This is the Japanese equivalent of the greasy spoon, and t hey’re obv iou sly doi ng something right. It’s one of the oldest if not the oldest restaurant in the neighborhood and is known for its donburi and udon. Don’t expect anything fancy here. It’s where Japanese expats go when they’re craving some of that junk food from home. A short walk from Ichon Stn. (Jungang line & line 4, ex. 4). Ichon 1-dong, Hyundai Apt by Joe McPherson #11. 02-795-8730

This place can be a secret no more! Kitchen in Seongbukdong has been known as an unassuming shack almost below the main road that becomes the coziest hangout on the other side of the door. Now with two locations, the original one is still the best. Make sure to nab the back library, which has as many cushions as it does books. To prevent yourself from going to sleep they serve coffees and pizzas, but the true double rainbow of beverages is the coffee beer cocktail. Some love it. Some don’t. But all try it. Kitchen is a twenty-minute walk from Hansung Univ. Stn. (line 4, ex. 6), below and on the right. by Joe McPherson 02-747-1713

The Sweetest Hotel This isn’t a hotel—it’s barely the size of a single hotel room. Hôtel Douce is a premium patisserie in Sorae Village run by one of the most accomplished pastry chefs in Asia. Born in Korea and trained in Japan, Jeong Hong Yeon made headlines in 2006 for making a life-size statue of Mozart entirely out of chocolate, covered in $5 million worth of diamonds. But you don’t need to be rich to visit Hôtel Douce, even if the pastries are. Macarons, éclairs, petit fours, bon bons—there’s enough here to make Willy Wonka give up on the chocolate business. Seocho-gu, Banpo-dong, 90-10. 02-595-5705 by Joe McPherson 10 Magazine February 2011 | 45

FOODIE FINDS

SEOUL

Sandwich Oasis to the North Salami, cheese steak, bacon sour cream—your sandwich fantasies are satisfied at this north Seoul shop.

‘Where you’re more than just a guest’

For several miserable months I dined on Family Mart sandwiches. Paper thin and mass-produced, these sandwiches always left me hungry. Sometimes, I resorted to the sandwiches of a nearby coffee shop, but they were bulging with lettuce and little else. I have heard of much worse, though—sickening tales of prepackaged combinations like strawberry jam and tuna fish. Of course, there are Western-style sandwiches galore in Itaewon, from smaller deli-type establishments to chains like Quiznos. Still, for the stingier sandwich-eaters among us, it can hurt to pay over W10,000 for a sub that would cost half as much back home. And for many, Itaewon is also a bit far for a lunch commute. Thus, it was a great relief to discover Sandwich House, a sandwich institution in Seongbuk-gu, north Seoul, that’s been in business for over 10 years. The hard-working owner, Jung-a Park, is appreciated throughout the neighborhood for her cheerful demeanor and her sandwich-making prowess. She uses fresh, authentic ingredients (including imported turkey and cheeses) to assemble over 100 sandwiches per day for local and foreign customers, one of whom is rumored to dine at Sandwich House on a daily basis. Over 30 different types of sandwiches are listed on the menu boards. I often order the salami and double cheese melt, cheese steak, garlic cheese chicken, potato cheese melt, or bacon sour cream. The vegetarian choice is the tomato mozzarella sandwich, though Ms. Park is also happy to prepare custom sandwiches on request. Sandwiches range in cost from W4,500 to W6,500 and drinks include coffee, fresh juice, and Cherry Coke. Call in advance for a large take-out order. Getting There

From Sungshin Women’s Univ. Stn. (line 4, ex. 1), make your way to the intersection near the university main gate. Sandwich House is at the left corner of the street leading to the main gate. 02-928-8450

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46 | 10 Magazine February 2011

Wor ds a n d shots by M atthew C. Cr awford

SEOUL CALENDAR E di tor’ s P ick

SEOUL

Korea Grand Sale Through February 28th

Fashion

Take off that Santa costume and upgrade your wardrobe with some of the discounts available at this sale. In an attempt to add Korea to the list of global shopping destinations, Korea’s tourism industry has expanded last year’s Seoul Grand Sale into a nationwide festival. For the 50 days from January 10th to February 28th, major cities will be celebrating the biggest national shopping tourism festival entitled “Korea Grand Sale 2011.” Nearly 13,000 stores and locations will be participating in the festival. One major change to this annual event is the organization and specific information offered to the public. Last year there were some complaints about misleading promotional offers. This year, if you go to the official website, you can see an extensive and specific list of discounts. koreagrandsale.or.kr 02-1330

Art Through February 12th The Color of Calm: Anya Dennis’ Solo Photography Exhibition Laughing Tree Gallery. 4 - 9 pm. info@laughingtree.com Through February 13th Exploring the Art of Japanese Comics Today Art Sonje Center. Exhibition tour from 2 - 4 pm, every hour. Adults W3,000, students W1,500. artsonje.org Lilit Soelter Solo Exhibition Armenian artist Lilit Soelter Solo Exhibition. CasAntonio near Itaewon Stn. (line 6, ex. 2). 3 - 6 pm. casantonio.co.kr 02-794-8803 Memories of the Future Leeum Museum near Hangangjin Stn. (line 6). leeum.samsungfoundation.org Through February 14th The Folktales of the Rabbit This exhibit features illustrations that were used in storybooks about rabbits, along with cultural artifacts featuring this year’s zodiac sign. National Folk Museum of Korea in Samcheong-dong. 9 am - 5 pm. Free. Closed on Tue. nfm.go.kr 02-3407-3114 Through February 20th “Infinite Challenge” Photo Exhibition Like it or not, this TV show has had a huge influence on Korean entertainment. Canon Plex in Shinsadong (11 am – 8 pm) and SBA Seoul Animation Center (9 am – 6 pm). Closed Feb 2nd – 4th. Free. imbc.com Through February 25th World Star in Contemporary Art From Andy Warhol to Damien Hirst, this exhibit displays work by big name artists. Hangaram Art Museum at Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Bus Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). Adults W8,000, students W5,000. sac.or.kr

Through February 27th History of Calligraphy Special Exhibition Featuring Chang-am Lee Sam-Man. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Bus Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 11 am - 7 pm. Adults W5,000, children W3,000. sac.or.kr The Rabbit: Animal of Wisdom The year of the rabbit is here! Start things off on the appropriate (rabbit) foot by looking into different rabbits in Korean culture. National Museum of Korea near Ichon Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Tue, Wed, Fri 9 am – 6 pm. Wed, Sat 9 am – 8 pm. Sun 9 am – 7 pm. museum.go.kr 02-2077-9000 Cultural Heritage Photo Exhibition Learn more about Korea’s cultural heritage, including jesa (ancestor worship), games, martial arts, and music through the pictures in this exhibit. Seoul History Museum near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 1). Weekends 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Free. museum.seoul.kr 02-724-0274 Leonardo da Vinci: The Genius Who Changed The World Who else besides Da Vinci was an artist, inventor, architect, musician, anatomist, and engineer? This innovative exhibit is held at the War Memorial in Yongsan near Samgakji Stn. (lines 4 & 6, ex. 12). 10 am - 6 pm. General W15,000, children W12,000. davincithegenius.co.kr 1544-1555 Hangeul Gallery: The Seasons These pieces of calligraphy express the meaning of each season through Hangeul, or Korean writing. Inside Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). 10:30 am - 10:30 pm. Free. sejongpac.or.kr 02-399-1153 Through March 1st Korda: A Revolutionary Lens You know that picture of revolutionary Che Guevara

10 Magazine February 2011 | 47

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Art Museum near Gyeongbokgung Stn. (line 3, ex. 4). 10 am – 6 pm. www. daelimmuseum.org 02-720-0667 Eurasian Culture Exhibition Compare the daily lives and culture of medieval Russian peasants and Joseon Dynasty Koreans in this exhibit sponsored by both countries. National Folk Museum near Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex. 1). 9 am - 5 pm (6 pm in March). Closed Tue. Free. nfm.go.kr 02-3704-3114 Through March 30th “Miracle Art” Exhibit Famous paintings with a twist! This exhibit takes a lighthearted approach to great art by making visual illusions that bring the painting out of the picture frame. aT Center in Gangnam. W10,000 - W20,000. www.atcenter.co.kr 02-6300-1114

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Miracle Art Exhibit Through March 30th

At first, it looks like your typical art exhibition, but something is a bit off about these famous works of art. For one, the Mona Lisa, is looking, well, bloated, and there’s a hose connecting her left cheek and an air pressure pump. Confused? This is an art exhibition with a twist. Adaptations of famous works and original paintings transform flat, 2D art into 3D interactive fun. There’s a little bit of everything from digital media projections to mirror art. Remember to bring a camera (and a friend) so you can take turns snapping pictures. It may take a while for you to get the right angle, but everything else about this exhibition is easily navigable, even for those who don’t know a lick of Korean. aT Center in Gangnam. W10,000 - W20,000. www.atcenter.co.kr 1588-2595 that appears on so many t-shirts? That was shot by Alberto Korda, one of Cuba’s most influential photographers. COEX 1st Floor near Samseong Stn. (line 2, ex. 5 & 6). 10 am - 7 pm. W4,000 - W10,000. kordaphoto.co.kr 1588-1555 Trick Art Have you ever wanted to take flash photography of a famous artwork? Or touch the rough textures of an oil painting? Well, here’s your chance. This exhibition allows you to become one with the world of art through interaction and optical illusions. Garden 5 near Jangji Stn. (line 8, exit 3) 10 am - 7 pm. W4,000 - W10,000. trucart.com 1577-3462

Picasso and Modern Art The creative direction of this exhibit make the often confusing work of Picasso and other modern artists more accessible to the public. Deoksu Palace 1st & 2nd Floors near City Hall Stn. (lines 1 & 2, ex. 3 & 12). Tue - Thu 9 am - 7 pm, Fri - Sun 9 am - 8:30 pm. W3,000 - W11,000. pam. chosun.com 02-757-3002 Robert Delpire and Friends Photography Exhibition This exhibition pays tribute to Delpire, an important figure in the history of still and moving pictures. Discover photographs and a film by Delpire and his friends, including Robert Frank, Henri Cartier-Bresson and William Klein. Hangaram Art Museum at the Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Bus Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). Adults

48 | 10 Magazine February 2011

W10,000, students W8,000, children W5,000. 11 am – 5 pm (3 pm on the last day). Closed the last Monday of every month. sac.or.kr 02-710-0765 Through March 6th Versailles Palace Exhibition Pieces from the massive collection of Versailles are on display, including extravagant paintings and sculptures of the last monarchs of France. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Bus Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 11 am - 7 pm. Adults W13,000, students W10,000, children W8,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Vietnamese Palace Exhibition A rare chance to get a glimpse of clothing and items of the Vietnamese Nguyen Dynasty. National Palace Museum of Korea near Gyeongbokgung Stn. (line 5, ex. 5). Weekdays 9 am - 6 pm. Weekends & Holidays 9 am - 7 pm. Closed Mon. Free. gogung.go.kr 02-3701-7500 Through March 13th Hundertwasser Exhibition Anyone interested in architecture, graphic design, or environmentalism will find these pieces by Austrian painter and artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser inspiring. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Bus Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Tomorrow Open Archive A selection of pieces submitted to the Drawing Center at the SOMA Museum of Art in Olympic Park near Mongchontoseong Stn. (line 8, ex. 1). Tues - Sun 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. somamuseum.org 02-425-1077 Through March 14th The Design Ethos of Dieter Rams Learn more about German design with this retrospective on 40 years of design by Dieter Rams. Daelim Contemporary

Through March 31st Heukja Exhibition This exhibition for Heukja, black porcelain from the Goryeo Dynasty, offers a rare glimpse into this special ceramic art. It features about 60 pieces of heukja used during the Joseon and Goryeo Dynasties. Horim Art Center in Sinsa-dong near Sinsa Stn. (line 3, exit 1). Closed Mon. Adults W8,000, teenagers W5,000. 10:30 am - 6 pm. horimartcenter.org 02-541-3525 February 11th - 13th Korea Galleries Art Fair Korea Galleries Art Fair is a leading fair promoting young and prominent artists. Learn about new art trends and have a chance to purchase paintings for your wall. COEX Hall C near Samseong Stn. (line 2, ex. 5 & 6) seoulartfair.net February 26th - March 12th Joel Bewley Solo Painting Exhibition Laughing Tree Gallery. 4 - 9 pm. Starting March 6th, this exhibition is available by appointment only. laughingtree.com info@laughingtree.com

Theater & Dance Ongoing Battle B-Boy Romance at a dance tournament serves as the setting for this exhibition of awesome dance routines and soaring aerial moves. B-Boy Theater Samjin B/D B1 in Hongdae. Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 6 pm, Sun and holidays 2 & 6 pm. W50,000. sjbboys.com 02-323-5233 Bubble World Though geared toward younger children, anyone can enjoy this creative presentation of bubbles, fans, lighting, and lasers. Myungbo Art Hall in Jongno. Wed 3 pm, Thu & Fri 3 pm & 8 pm, weekends 2 & 4:30 pm (and 8 pm on Sat). bubbleworld.co.kr 02-2263-9742 Jump First performed in 2003, this non-verbal show combines a comic story with martial arts moves and impressive visuals. Downtown near Jonggak Stn. Mon 8 pm, Tue – Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun 3 & 6 pm. W40,000 – W50,000. hijump.co.kr 02-722-3995 Korea House Performance Head over to the Korea House for two daily performances based on traditional Korean culture. You can also sample Korean royal cuisine before the show. Chungmuro Stn. (lines 3 & 4, ex. 3). 7 – 8 pm, 8:50 – 9:50 pm. Dinner starts at W68,000. Performance is W50,000. kangkoku.or.kr 02-2266-9101 Legend of Flower This romantic tale of two lovers redefines what a performance can be with stunning sound effects, tantalizing aromas, holographs, and more. Walkerhill Theatre at the Sheraton Grande Walkerhill. Mon – Sat 5:30 & 7 pm. W60,000 and up. legendofflower.com 02-455-5000

Miso Chongdong Theater presents Miso, a story of one woman’s encounter with love told through traditional dance, percussion, and music. City Hall Stn. 4 & 8 pm. Closed Mon. W30,000 – W50,000. miso.mct.or.kr 02-751-1500

Nanta This kitchen percussion extravaganza is the non-verbal stage show that nearly everyone sees at least once. Two Seoul locations and performances almost daily. Refer to website for more details. W50,000 – W60,000. nanta.co.kr 02-739-8288 Pan An exciting combination of Korean folk songs and percussion of all kinds. Gwanghwamun Art Hall. Wed - Fri 8 pm. Weekends and holidays at 2 pm. Closed Mon and Tue. 90 min. W30,000 - W50,000. www.ghmarthall.co.kr 02-722-3416 Sa-Choom This non-verbal dance performance tells the story of three friends’ coming of age. Insadong near Jongno 3-ga Stn. (lines 1, 3, & 5, ex. 5). Tue – Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 7:30 pm, Sun 4 pm. W50,000. lovedance.co.kr 070-8249-3023 Through February 27th Billy Elliot: The Musical In Korean. LG Arts Center by Yeoksam Stn. (line 2, ex. 7). Weekdays 8 pm, weekends 2 & 7:30 pm. Closed Mon. W50,000 – W130,000. lgart.com 02-2005-0114 All That Jazz: The Musical In Korean. Yongsan Art Hall. art.yongsan.go.kr. Weekdays 8 pm, Sat 3 pm & 7pm, Sun 2 pm & 6pm. Closed Mondays. W15,000 - W55,000. 02-3141-3025 Through March 31st Jekyll and Hyde: The Musical Based on the novel The Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde by Robert Louis Stevenson, this version of the original will surely delight the audience. In Korean. Charlotte Theater near Jamsil Stn (line 2, ex. 3). Tue - Fri 8 pm. Sat 3 & 7 pm. Sun 2 & 6 pm. Closed Mon. Check the website for more details on dates and times. W50,000 - W130,000. jekyllnhyde.co.kr 1644-0078 February 1st - March 19th Tears of Heaven With music by Frank Wildhorn, the story follows the greatest love of a man and his fight against fate. Haeoreum Theater at the National Theater of Korea. Shuttle available from Dongguk University Stn. (line 3, ex. 6). . Weekdays 8 pm. Sat 3 pm & 8 pm, Sun 2 pm & 7 pm. Closed Mondays. W30,000 - W130,000. ntok.go.kr 02-2280-4114 February 2nd - 26th The Mission (Heaven on Earth): The Musical If you are a fan of great composer Ennio Morricone, you will definitely love this musical, which is based on the movie of the same name. The original cast will be performing in English. Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). Weekdays 8 pm, Sat 3 & 7:30 pm, Sun 2 & 6:30 pm. W60,000 - W200,000. sejongpac.or.kr 1544-1887 February 10th - 13th La Boheme: The Opera Set in quite possibly the most romantic scene in the

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February 20th

Concert

An anonymous London graffiti artist in the 60s declared that “Clapton is God,” and Rolling Stone backed up that assessment by ranking Eric Clapton #4 in “The 100 Greatest Guitarists of All Time.” The past fifty years of touring and recording have taken a toll on his body, but his talent with the guitar continues to mature. Honed during stints with The Yardbirds, Cream, Derek and the Dominoes and finally as a solo artist, Clapton’s bold yet precise guitar style is the foundation of his fame. But his emotive, plaintive voice is what carried hits like Bob Marley’s “I Shot the Sheriff,” “Layla,” and “Tears in Heaven.” For his third visit to Korea (after shows in 1997 and 2007), Clapton and his band will perform at Korea’s largest indoor concert hall, the Gymnastics Arena at Olympic Park near Olympic Park Stn. (line 5, ex. 3). 7 pm. W60,000 - W180,000. itourseoul.com 1544-1555 world, Paris on Christmas Eve, this story is about a man and woman’s love and their struggles against circumstances. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). Thu - Fri 7:30 pm, Sat 3 pm & 7:30 pm, Sun 4 pm. W30,000 - W100,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 February 24th - March 1st Giselle: The Ballet Follow the story of Giselle and enjoy the 19th century Romantic style of this classic ballet that first premiered in Paris in 1841. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). Tue - Fri 7:30 pm, Sat 3 & 7:30 pm, Sun 3 pm. W5,000 W100,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300

Concerts Through February 27th Warm Winter Story Traditional Korean music performed by the Cheongarang ensemble as you enjoy lunch. Samcheonggak in Seongbuk-dong near Gwanghwamun. Sundays. 12 - 4 pm. W50,000. sejongpac.or.kr 02-765-3700 February 3rd - 4th “Kkachi Kkachi Seollal” Evening Concert Legendary pansori artist Suk-seon An will sing a selection of upbeat traditional tunes to accompany your meal at Samcheonggak in Seongbuk-dong near Gwanghwamun. 6 pm. W80,000. 02-765-3700 February 5th Acoustic Cafe Concert Featuring Japanese New Age violinist and composer, Norihiro Tsuru, this performance will feature two sections called Hope For Tomorrow and Last Carnival. Seoul Arts Center

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near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W20,000 - W100,000. sac.or.kr 02-338-3513 February 11th Liars in Concert The Liars draws heavily on late 1970’s British post-punk ; however, every album exemplifies their versatility and diversity with dramatic stylistic shifts that don’t compromise their foundation of rhythm and sound texture. V-Hall in Hongdae. 9:30 pm - 12:30 am. W34,000 pre sale, W38,000 advance. scstickets@gmail.com

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Taylor Swift This will be pop-country superstar Taylor Swift’s first concert in Korea. Gymnastics Arena at Olympic Park near Olympic Park Stn. (line 5, ex. 3). 7 pm. W88,000 - W99,000. ticket.interpark.com 1544-1555 February 12th German Brass Concert Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 February 12th and 26th Saturday Chamber Music Enjoy your Saturday afternoon sipping a cup of coffee as you listen to great classical pieces played by the chamber orchestra at KT Chamber Hall in Mokdong. February 12th and 26th. 4 pm. ktchamberhall.com 02-3414-2063 February 13th Korea Philharmonic Orchestra Romantic pieces for couples by J. Strauss, Rachmaninoff and Bizet. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 2 pm. W10,000 - W50,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Taylor Swift

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10 Magazine February 2011 | 49

SEOUL CALENDAR E di tor’ s Pick

Tenor Francisco Araiza February 26th

Concert

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The famous conductor Herbert von Karajan discovered the hidden talent of this Mexico-born tenor 30 years ago. Since then, Francisco Araiza has stir red audiences at La Scala in Milan, the Vienna State Opera and the New York Metropolitan. This February, Korean audiences are waiting for their tur n to be moved by his music. Even when the world was obsessed with the three tenors Plácido Domingo, José Carreras, and Luciano Pavarotti, the number of music fans wanting to hear Araiza’s voice continued to grow, and now he is internationally acknowledged as a Kammersänger, a German title for distinguished singers. On his first visit to Korea, he is accompanied by two Korean sopranos. They will be singing selections from Mozart, Verdi, Bizet and Tchaikovsky. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W33,000 – W165,000. sac.or.kr 02-6377-1250 February 13th Valentine’s Day Art Concert This concert draws connections between the domain of music and art. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W30,000 - W80,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 February 14th Remi Panossian Trio This trio features the French jazz pianist Remi Panossian. Baekam Art Hall near Samseong Stn. (line 2, ex. 8). 8 pm. W33,000 - W55,000. baekamhall.com 02-559-1333 February 15th American Composer`s Night Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300

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February 17th Rose Jang’s Nouveau-Classics Concert With classics such as “Don’t Cry for Me Argentina” and “I Dreamed a Dream,” Rose Jang will sing her heart out in this two-part performance about love and hope. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W40,000 - W200,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 February 18th Chamber Music Series 1 Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). 7:30 pm. W10,000 - W30,000. sejongpac.or.kr 1544-1887 February 19th Eugene Ugoroski and Konstantin Lifschitz Recital Brahams’ Scherzo in c minor, Szymanowski’s Myth (Fountain of Arethuse) and Strauss’s Sonata in E flat major. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W30,000 - W80,000. sac.or.kr 02-599-5743 February 23rd Andras Schiff Piano Recital Beethoven’s Sonata No. 30 in E Major op 109, Sonata No. 31 in A flat Major op 110 and Sonata No. 32 in C minor op 111. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal

Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W50,000 W130,000. sac.or.kr 02-599-5743 February 26th Harp Concert Program includes selections from Tchaikovsky’s Romeo and Juliet, Puccini’s La Boheme, and Bizet’s Carmen. Kumho Art Hall near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 7). W8,000. kumhoarthall.co.kr 02-6303-7700 Fundraiser for Apollo 18 US Tour Catch a smashing lineup of Apollo 18, Vassline, Art of Parties, Hanumpa, Smacksoft, and Eshe & Navah (bellydance) for W20,000 to support Apollo 18’s US tour next month. Live Club Ssam in Hongdae. 6:30 pm. W20,000. apollo18kr@gmail.com Round Robin Club Freebird hosts a unique event with the following concept: bands set up around the edge of the room playing non-stop live music, while the audience stays in the middle. Club Freebird. 10:30 pm. W15,000 (free drink with advance reservations; limit 280 tickets). supercolorsuper.com supercolorsuper@gmail.com February 27th

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V-Day Celebrated with V-Art February 26th

Family & Community

Elvis Costello Known for his versatile lyrics, witty wordplay and role in founding the punk/new wave genres, Elvis Costello will be charming his Korean fan base for the very first time. Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). 7 pm. W50,000 - W150,000. sejongpac.or.kr 1544-1887 March 3rd - 4th The Whitest Boy Alive This GermanNorwegian band features the talented Erlend Ă&#x2DC;ye. Their style is versatile but focuses on electronic with amazing guitar solos. Their music is considered indie pop, so it is accessible and unpretentious for mainstream listeners. V-Hall in Hongdae. Fri 8 pm, Sat 7 pm. W77,000. 02-457-5114 March 7th - 8th Leipzig Gewandhaus Orchestra Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W50,000 W300,000. sac.or.kr. 02-599-5743 March 9th

March 10th

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Wednesdays Hockey Night in Itaewon with Tailgating BBQ W5,000 Hotdog + OB W5,500 Burger + OB W5,500 Chili + OB Additional W3,000 Hotdog, W3,500 Hamburger or Chili Thirsty Thursdays W1,500 OB Draft â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;til 10 pm

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Film Ongoing Dinosaurs Alive 3D Want to go back 4.6 billion years to the time when dinosaurs ruled the world? With the cutting-edge technology of CG, you can! 63 Building, 63 ArtHall Digital 3D Film Section in Yeouido. Please visit the website for further details on prices and times. 63.co.kr 02-789-5663 Korean Films Subtitled in English CGV (Gangnam, Guro, Myeongdong, and Yongsan) and Lotte Cinema (Konguk Univ. and Hongik Univ.) feature limited screenings of Korean films with English subtitles. See our website for regular updates on times. 10magazine.asia/subtitles February 2nd and 16th 8mm: Art Cinema 8mm is a bi-weekly night of vintage and/or art film at Laughing Tree Gallery in Haebangchon. The gallery will open at 8 pm, and the film will start at 8:30 pm. laughingtree.com

Family & Community Santana This Mexican-American musician is the pioneer of rock, salsa and jazz fusion. Experience the music of one of the greatest guitarists in the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; Santana. Gymnastics Arena at Olympic Park near Olympic Park Stn. (line 5, ex. 3). 8 pm. W132,000 - W165,000. ticket.interpark.com 1544-1555

Ongoing Changing of the Guards Ceremony This is an exact reenactment of the ceremony that would take place whenever the royal guards changed shifts. Put on historical uniforms and take photographs in front of the Gyeonghoeru pavilion. Gwanghwamun and

10 Magazine February 2011 | 51

SEOUL

V-Day is a global movement to stop violence against women and girls. This yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s V-Day campaign will commence with V-Art: a silent art auction featuring vaginainspired works from local and international artists. Moreover, the event will include spoken word performances, live music, and the talents of DJ Jeff Rands. Proceeds from the evening will benefit the Korean Unwed Mothers & Families Association (KUMFA)â&#x20AC;&#x201C;the only non-governmental organization that supports unwed mothers and their families throughout Korea. Located in The Alley in Itaewon behind the McDonaldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s. 9 pm to 1 am. Donations accepted. Bring cash for auction items, beer, and wine. vdayseoul.com, vdayseoulevents@gmail.com

SEOUL CALENDAR E di tor’ s Pick

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Folk Perfomances The regular Saturday performances, featuring traditional dances, gut (exorcism rites), and Korean classical music, are held every Saturday at 2 pm at the Performance Hall of the National Folk Museum at Gyeongbokgung palace. 3 pm. Museum admission gives free access to the performances. nfm.go.kr 2-3704-3114 Through February 14th Rabbit Legends Exhibit 2011 is the year of the rabbit according to the Chinese zodiac. The stories collected here include many different interpretations of rabbits. National Folk Museum near Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex. 1). 9 am - 5 pm. Closed Tue. Free. nfm.go.kr 02-3704-3114.

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Education & Conferences

Visiting a palace by yourself can be enjoyable, but wouldn’t it be nice to have someone to fill you in on the all the site’s fascinating little secrets—in English? Fortunately, the ICI (the International Exchange and Cultural Promotion Institute) organizes free English tours at Deoksugung Palace with youth volunteers as your guides. English tours are available every second and fourth Saturday at 10 am and 2:30 pm. The meeting place for the tour is the first bridge inside the palace, Geumcheon Bridge. To sign up, send an email to ici@icworld. or.kr with your name, the number of your company, contact details and preferred date and time so the volunteers can save you a place. Note that the schedule might change, so make sure you get a confirmation email before going. Bring W1,000 for admission to the palace. deoksugung.go.kr 02-3210-3266

Through February 28th Children’s Nanta Activity Nanta is the popular non-verbal percussion show. Sessions held several times each day. COEX Atium Performance Hall near Samseong Stn. (line 2, ex. 6). Adults W13,000, children W20,000. i-pmc.co.kr 02-739-82888 February 5th Platoon Kunsthalle Night Flea Market Usually held the first Saturday of every month, this flea market is a fantastic chance to check out avantgarde fashion and pick up a few accessories to enhance your wardrobe. Platoon is located in Apgujeong near Hakdong Stn. (line 7, ex. 10). 8 pm – 12 am. kunsthalle.com 02-3447-1191

Education & Conferences Ongoing KOICA Global Village: Africa Africa may be wracked with poverty, but it is also a location of enormous potential. Learn more at this exhibit. 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. blog.naver. com/geovillage 02-3460-5800 Every Saturday Weekly Lecture on Buddhism Curious about the practice of Zen Buddhism? English lectures by Zen Master Subul Sunim and others will prove enlightening. 2:30 - 4:30 pm every Saturday except national holidays. Anguk Zen Center, 5 minutes on foot from Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex. 2). angukzen.org 011-229-2829 Through February 13th The Crown from the Cheonmachong Tumulus These royal relics from the Silla Dynasty have not been on display since they were first discovered in a tomb in 1973. National Museum of Korea near Ichon Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Tue, Wed, Fri 9 am – 6 pm. Wed, Sat 9 am – 8 pm. Sun 9 am – 7 pm. museum.go.kr 02-2077-9000 Through March 20th Bhutan Exhibition The small nation of Bhutan, easy to miss next to its massive neighbors China and India, is the only country in the world to measure the happiness of its citizens (through the Gross National Happiness measure). Located at the Dongdaemun History and Culture Park. museum.seoul.kr 02-2286-3410 Through May 16th Animal Science Seoul National Science Museum near Hyehwa Stn. (line 4, ex. 4). 9:30 am - 7:50 pm. Closed Mon. Adults

E di tor’ s P ick

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The Silk Road and Dunhuang: A Trip Through the Western Region with Hyecho Through April 3rd

Continued from p. 39 was rediscovered in caves at Dunhuang in China by French sinologist Paul Pelliot in 1908. The text has been preserved since then at the National Library of France and is now on loan in Korea for the first time in the 1284 years since it was first written. Hyecho’s journey and the travel journals he kept form the basis for the exhibit, but there are also 220 other relics provided by ten museums in Xinjiang, Ningxia, and Gansu. Ranging from religious items to murals, these diverse artifacts explore the commercial and cultural exchange that linked far-flung regions of the ancient world. Of particular interest are two golden buckles excavated in Karasahr and Pyongyang (see photos on p. 39), which reveal a surprising similarity given their provenance. The exhibit is divided into four sections, which first examine the cities and culture of the Silk Road before turning to Dunhuang, where Hyecho’s writings were discovered, and wrapping up with the route from Dunhuang to Xian, the Chinese terminus of the route. Unfortunately for those of us who aren’t so good at Korean, the company organizing the exhibit hasn’t provided much in the way of English-language information for expats to appreciate the exhibit: the items have English titles but no explanations, and there is no audio guide or tour in English. Visitors are advised to do a bit of research online before they go and to pick up the free English-language pamphlet, which should be available starting early this month. The exhibit is held at the National Museum of Korea near Ichon Stn. (Jungang line and line 4, ex. 3). Note that exit 2 is temporarily inaccessible due to construction. Tue, Thu, Fri 9 am - 6 pm; Wed & Sat 9 am - 9 pm; Sun 9 am - 7 pm. Adults W10,000, teens W9,000, children W8,000. silkroad2010.com 1666-4252

Wor ds by Dav i d Ca rruth

10 Magazine February 2011 | 53

SEOUL CALENDAR E di tor’ s Pick

Between’s Romantic Dinner Set February 14th

Dine & Drink

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If you’re looking for an impressive place to take your significant other this Valentine’s Day, Itaewon’s Italian dining lounge Between is worth considering. Between’s top chef Pietro, who got started at a Michelin 3-star restaurant, is planning a special dinner set for couples called “Valentine’s Day at Between.” In addition to the courses on the menu, all customers who order this set will also receive a special gift prepared by Between’s patissier. The ambience and delicious food will make your special day even more memorable. enjoybetween@gmail.com 02-795-6164 W11,000, students W10,000, children W9,000. ssm.go.kr 02-747-1393 Through September 11th Ethnic Earthenware from the Asian Heart Earthen sculptures are the focus of this exhibit, which tries to get to the bottom of the Asian mentality. National Museum of Korea near Ichon Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Tue, Wed, Fri 9 am – 6 pm. Wed, Sat 9 am – 8 pm. Sun 9 am – 7 pm. museum.go.kr 02-2077-9000

Dozens of volleyball and basketball games are scheduled for this month. Volleyball games are listed on the website at kovo.co.kr (mostly Korean, though English schedules are also listed). Men’s basketball games are listed on kbl.or.kr (Korean only) and women’s games at wkbl.or.kr (also Korean only).

February 17th - 19th Franchise Seoul Spring COEX at Samseong Stn. (line 2, exit 5 & 6). franchiseseoul.co.kr 02-6000-1105

February 7th Live Broadcast of Superbowl Don’t miss the biggest sporting event in America just because you’re in Korea! See 10magazine.asia/super-bowl for a list of locations.

February 19th - 20th Comic World No, it’s not Halloween, but it is a valid excuse for you to dress up as your favorite cartoon character. At this conference, there will be drawing contests, costume contests, singing contests and many more fun activities! Sat 10:30 am - 5:30 pm. Sun 10 am - 5:30 pm. W4,000. comicw.co.kr 02-3142-2137 February 24th - 27th Korea Travel Expo 2010 3rd floor of COEX at Samseong Stn. (line 2, ex. 5 & 6). W2,000. naenara.or.kr 02-6002-8337 Seoul International Golf and Resort Fair SETEC (Seoul Trade Exhibition Center) near Hagyeoul Stn. (line 3, ex. 1). 10 am - 7 pm. W3,000. golfresort2011.com 02-451-0473 Seoul International Sports and Leisure Industry Show Visit to see which sporting enterprises have the most creative and state-of-theart equipment. COEX A, B Hall on the 1st floor at Samseong Stn. (line 2, ex. 5 & 6). spoex.com 02-410-1424 February 26th Volunteer for NK Human Rights It’s time to stand up and fight for justice! Those interested in volunteering must finish the training program to become official staff. This program aims to improve the lives of North Korean refugees and to foster even better volunteers. Justice for North Korea Conference Room in Insadong (Dae-il Building, Floor B2) near Jongno 3-ga (lines 1, 3, & 5, ex. 5). 9:30 am - 12 pm. rescuenorthkorea@gmail.com 010-8025-9355

54 | 10 Magazine February 2011

Sport & Fitness

February 13th 8th Winter Marathon on the Han River 5k, 10k, half, and full to depart at 10 am from Noreun Plaza in Yeouido. Register now. dkrun.co.kr 031-919-2446 February 19th Critical Mass Cycling Event This gathering happens every month on the third Saturday. The usual route is a little under 13 km (8 miles) and goes at a slow pace. Come join the fun at 4 pm in Gwanghwamun. The ride will end in Yeouido a couple of hours later. Search for “Korea’s Critical Mass” on Facebook. March 6th Jung-geun An Peace Marathon 5k, 10k, half, and full to depart at 9 am from Hangang Park in Yeouido. Register by February 20th. anjoonggeun.co.kr/ marathon 02-2265-9630

Dine & Drink Ongoing Korean Cooking Classes and Market Tour Learn authentic Korean cuisine in English from a Korean chef. Classes held at the O’ngo Cooking Studio near Insadong (Nakwon Sangga). After class, tour the market for your ingredients. Classes include dalkgalbi (red chili chicken), haemul pajeon (seafood pancake), bulgogi, bibimbap, and more. Mon – Fri. 10 am, 2 pm, and 4 pm. ongofood.com 02-3446-1607

Korean Night Dining Tour Take a crash course on Korea’s late-night food and drinking culture. Start at Gwangjang Market and continue to historic Jongno 3-ga where you can eat Korean BBQ, drink makgeolli (rice wine) and dine at a pochamacha (tent restaurant). W80,000 per person (3 people minimum) includes tax, food, drinks, and guide. Available nightly from 5 - 9 pm. ongofood.com 02-3446-1607

Saturday Korean Cooking Classes This February, O’ngo Culinary School will be offering Saturday cooking classes for those hoping to learn Korean cuisine and meet other foodies. Learn Korean favorites throughout the month as you get a deeper understanding of the techniques of Korean cuisine from our award-winning chefs. 2/5: mandu rice cake soup; 2/12 sundubu and seafood pancake; 2/19 japchae and spicy pork. W55,000 a class or W135,000 for three classes. Saturday 11 am or 3 pm. ongofood.com 02-3446-1607 February 26th “Old World Vs. New World” Premium Pinot Noir/Chardonnay Tasting Fresh baguettes and finger food will also be served. The World Vine in Gangnam near Seolleung Stn. (line 2). 5:30 – 7:30 pm. W80,000 per person. Search for “The World Vine” Wine Shop in Seoul on Facebook. 02-538-8382 February 27th Whiskey Live Seoul Sick of soju and ready for whiskey? Don’t miss Whisky Magazine’s international event, hosted in Korea for the first time. There will be 100 different types of whiskies from around the world with food pairing, cocktails, music and other forms of entertainment to accompany your day of drinking. Grand Intercontinental Hotel (Grand Hall Room) near Samsung Stn. (line 2, ex. 5). 10 am - 7 pm. W30,000 - W60,000. whiskysociety.or.kr 02-541-4889

Nightlife Ongoing Rhyme Time: Spoken Word and Poetry Every 2nd and 4th Thursday, head to Tony’s Aussie Bar in Itaewon for a literary evening. 8 pm. tonysitaewon.com 02-790-0793 February 3rd Stand Up Seoul Comedy Night Korea’s finest English language comedians deliver monologues and rants about expat life and other topics. New acts are welcome! 9 pm the first Thursday of every month at the Rocky Mountain Tavern in Itaewon. Facebook: Stand Up Seoul, standupseoul@gmail.com February 5th Back 2 the Basics Hip-Hop DGBD (Club Drug) in Hongdae. 10 pm – 5 am. W10,000 includes 1 free drink. Search for “Party Definitions” on Facebook. Bob Marley 66th Birthday Bash Bob Marley would be turning 66 on February 6, 2011. Come together to celebrate the legacy of Jamaica’s greatest musical icon at Roofers Bar

February 11th Dolls Party Club Answer in Cheongdam-dong. 02-514-4311 Vitalic Mansion Lounge in Hongdae. mansionseoul@gmail.com 02-3143-4037 February 12th Escape Korea Party Club Answer in Cheongdam-dong. 02-514-4311 Sven Vath Club Eden in Gangnam. eden-club.co.kr February 19th Yolanda Be Cool Party Club Answer in Cheongdam-dong. 02-514-4311 February 25th Club Day The best night to experience the Hongdae disco scene. Buy tickets at participating clubs like NB, M2 and Q-vo. On the last Friday of each month. 11 pm – 5 am. W20,000 gets you into 20 clubs. One drink included. theclubday.co.kr

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Korea Taste Tour Experience culture through cuisine! With your culinary guide, visit a Buddhist-inspired Korean restaurant, get a quick tour of Insadong eateries, stop by a teahouse, and enjoy rice wine and Korean bar food snacks. W80,000 per person includes tax, food, drinks, and tour guide. Tours are usually Thu – Sun (3 people minimum) 12 – 3 pm. ongofood.com 02-3446-1607

near Itaewon Stn. (line 6, ex. 3). 9 pm - 5 am. W10,000 (includes 1 free drink). roofers.co.kr 02-749-2970

Hunters Party Club Answer in Cheongdam-dong. 02-514-4311 February 26th SCI’s February Fundraiser Over the past 3 years, SCI (Seoul City Improv) has hosted around 40 shows in Seoul and abroad. Support the future of this expat comedy group by attending their show. Features a special performance by expat band The Total @$$holes. Roofers Bar in Itaewon. 8 pm. W10,000 includes a drink. seoulcityimprov.com

Travel February 2nd - 5th Lunar New Year Trip Phoenix Park offers many slopes of varying degrees, a water park, 10 pin bowling, and much more. There will also be a festival that will feature ice-fishing, sledding and many more fun activities. Meet at Hongik Univ. Subway Stn. (line 2, ex. 1) or Express Bus Terminal (lines 3, 7, 9, ex. 8). W295,000. adventurekorea.com February 5th - 6th Hotel Party with Burlesque & Kabrew Come party at an amazing countryside hotel with some red-hot entertainment. Sat 2:30 - Sun 10 pm. W55,000 includes 6 hours of unlimited beer, BBQ and continental breakfast. W100,000 includes 6 hours all-you-candrink beer, BBQ, continental breakfast and round-trip transportation. kapa.co.kr 02-3143-4082 February 12th - 13th Skiing & Snowboarding Trip Take advantage of the fresh snow and head up to Phoenix Park in Pyeongchang, Gangwon-do for a two-day trip filled with drinks, skiing, snowboarding, food and swimming. Meet at Hongik Univ. Stn. (line 2, ex. 1) or Express Bus Terminal Stn. (lines 3, 7, 9, ex, 8). W126,000 includes transportation, accommodation, afternoon lift pass (1:30 - 6:30 pm) and ski/snowboard rentals. adventurekorea. com, webmaster@adventurekorea.com February 19th - 20th Temple Stay Immerse yourself in the heart of Korea’s culture and experience the lifestyle of Buddhist monks on this two-day temple stay in Geumsansa Temple in Geumje, Jellabuk-do. Meet at Hongik Univ. Stn (line 2, ex. 1) or Express Bus Terminal Stn. (lines 3, 7, 9, ex. 8). W91,000 includes 3 meals, transportation and English-speaking guides. adventurekorea.com webmaster@adventurekorea.com

Proudly supplied by Kobeak Foods©

10 Magazine February 2011 | 55

SEOUL DIRECTORY

American Forces Network AM 1530 / FM 102.7

Bebop Guesthouse Hongdae bebop-guesthouse.com, 070-8261-4835 Kim’s Guesthouse Hongdae kimsguesthouse.com 02-337-9894 Namu Guesthouse Hongdae namugh.co.kr 070-8291-4878 Olympic Parktel Jamsil parktel.co.kr/english 02-410-2114 Seoul Backpackers Myeongdong seoulbackpackers.com 02-3672-1972

Transportation

Museums

International Taxi (English Speaking) 1644-2255 Jumbo Taxi Service (more expensive) 02-888-2000 Interactive Subway Map smrt.co.kr

Gahoe Museum gahoemuseum.org 02-741-0466 World Jewelry Museum wjmuseum.com 02-730-1610 Kimchi Field Museum kimchimuseum.co.kr 02-6002-6456 Kyung-in Museum of Fine Art Kyunginart.co.kr 02-733-4448 Leeum Samsung Museum of Art leeum.org 02-2014-6901 Museum of Korean Traditional Music ncktpa.go.kr 02-580-3130 National Folk Museum nfm.go.kr 02-3704-3114 National Museum of Korea museum.go.kr 02-2077-9000 National Palace Museum of Korea gogung.go.kr 02-3701-7500 Seoul Art Center sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Seoul Museum of Art seoulmoa.seoul.go.kr 02-120 Seoul National Science Museum ssm.go.kr 02-3668-2200 War Memorial warmemo.or.kr 02-709-3139

Seoul Automobiles

Travel Agencies

SEOUL

Cosmo.jin Tour cosmojin.com Fides Travel fidestravel.co.kr

NEW CARS FOR LEASE Gyung Bok Agency

010-3524-8260 Gyung Bok Agency Take the wheel of a premium Hyundai with the Gyung Bok Agency’s lease program. 1-year, 2-year, and 3-year leases available. 921-1 Daechi-Dong, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul. Contact Chief Sales Manager Hank Jo at 010-3524-8260. Insurance

02-318-0345 02-755-5470

Discover the World’s Best Deal!!!

F L I G H T H O T E L PA C K A G E

ITAEWON TEL: 02.796.9633, 9636 JNCTRAVEL@NAVER.COM

JNC Travel Itaewon Itching to travel? This travel agent offers worldwide discount air tickets, hotels, professional counseling, and package goods. Mon - Fri 10 am - 7 pm, Sat 10 am - 5 pm, Sun 1 - 5 pm. 02-796-9633 Unique Travel Itaewon uniquetravel.co.kr 02-792-0606 Xanadu Travel xanadu.co.kr 02-795-7771

Medical Services

A Plus Dental aplusdental.co.kr 02-3442-7616 Hus Hu Dental & Skin Clinic hus-hu.com 02-519-8013

Korean Tours

t $"3 .0503$:$-& t

INSURANCE For A Free Quote,

Call Byung at 010-3232-0625 or Email: byung625@gmail.com Samsung Fire and Marine Insurance Automobile and motorcycle insurance provided by one of Korea’s most reliable conglomerates. Also available; Life/ Annuities, Business/Fire, Supplemental Medical, Travel Insurance. 010-3232-0625 Foreigner Assistance

ATEK (Association for Teachers of English in Korea) atek.or.kr Seoul Dasan (City Info) 02-120 Seoul Global Center global.seoul.go.kr 02-1688-0120 Yeoksam English 02-3453-9038 Yeonnam Chinese 02-6406-8151 Seorae French 02-570-6009 Ichon Japanese 02-2199-8882 Itaewon/Hannam English 02-2199-8883~5 Radio

TBS eFM

FM 101.3

56 | 10 Magazine February 2011

Adventure Korea adventurekorea.com 018-242-5536 Korean Safari koreansafari.com 019-542-2955 O’ngo Culinary Tours Korean food tours and cooking classes in Seoul. Tours and classes are taught by Korean food experts. Experience the culture through the cuisine. ongofood.com 010-6661-7769 Royal Asiatic Society Korea Branch raskb.com 02-763-9483 USO DMZ Tours affiliates.uso.org/korea 02-795-3028 WOW Corea Tour wowcoreatour.com 02-739-3337 Hotels/Accommodations

KoreaHotel.com Korea’s version of Expedia. koreahotel.com 4-5 Star Hotels Astoria 02-2268-7111 COEX InterContinental 02-3452-2500 Courtyard 02-2638-3000 Grand InterContinental 02-555-5656 JW Marriott 02-6282-6262 Millenium Hilton 02-753-7788 Renaissance 02-555-0501 Ritz-Carlton 02-3451-8000 Hostels Guest House Baenang Yongsan ghbaenang.com 010-9071-4641 Guesthouse Korea Jongno guesthouseinkorea.com 02-3674-2205

Jaseng Hospital of Oriental Medicine Are you suffering from back or neck pain? Visit the non-surgical spinal specialists. jaseng.net 02-3218-2167 Korea Counseling Psychological Association krcpa.or.kr 02-498-8293 Korea HIV/AIDS Prevention & Support Center khap.org 02-927-4322 Ra Dental Clinic 02-569-8745 Tufts Dental Clinic 02-553-7512

WY Dentistry Gangnam Better than your dentist back home. Dr. Yoo is a US-trained and licensed dentist with over 20 years of clinical dental experience serving the expat community since 1996. wydent.com 02-514-5575 Religious

Buddhist Seoul International Zen Center seoulzen.org 02-900-4326 Vairocana International Buddhist Meditation Center 02-735-5347 Jetavana Meditation Center jetavanacenter@gmail.com 02-595-5115 Catholic Bomun 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Chunma 02-765-0870 Dongducheon 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Hannam International Church English, Italian, Spanish, French 02-793-2070 Hyewha-dong Catholic Church 02-764-0221 (press 6) Jinjob 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Keumchon 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Philippine Center Tagalog 02-765-0870 Pastral Center for Labor English, Vietnamese, Thai 02-924-2721 Salesio Labor Center Tagalog, Daelim 1 dong 02-765-0870 Sung-dong Social Welfare Center Tagalog 02-765-0870 Yoksam-dong Church 02-553-0801 Catholics in South Korea Facebook Group, Annamarie at sunshineamore25@gmail.com Islam Seoul Central Masjid 02-794-7307 Protestant Gwanglim Church 02-2056-5732 International Lutheran 02-794-6274 Jubilee Church 02-569-2293 Kumnan Church 02-490-7000 Myungsung Presbyterian 02-440-9000 New Philadelphia Church newphiladelphiachurch.com 02-706-2501 Onnuri Church 02-793-9686 Presbyterian Church of the Lord empcl.org 010-2266-6453

SEOUL DIRECTORY Somang Presbyterian 02-512-9191 Seoul Union Church 02-333-7393 Yoido Full Gospel Church 02-782-4851 Yongsan Baptist Church 02-796-0284 Classes

Sanirang Alpine Networks This climbing service offers lessons, clinics, and guided tours. sanirang.net/about. html, info@sanirang.net Suseonjae Meditation and Deep Breathing Classes jihye@suseonjae.org 019-201-5958 Wise-Up Workouts Lose weight and get lean in less than 30 days guaranteed? Author and creator of the No. 1 gym-free program is now in Korea. 1 to 1 service. Grab the book “Wise-Up Workouts” at www. wiseupworkouts.com 010-4998-8722 Cafes

SEOUL

Caffé Bene Whether it’s coffee, gelato, or a waffle you’re looking for, you can find it at one of the 400 Caffé Bene outlets across Korea. caffebene.co.kr 02-3438-6888 Access Consciousness What if the life you imagined was actually possible? Regular classes held in Seoul & around Korea. Contact Nate at 010-6285-6283 or nhkent@gmail.com

Bikram Yoga Gangnam Feel the 105°F heat of the original Bikram Yoga with 90-minute classes taught by passionate instructors. Behind the Kyobo Tower building, Sinnonhyeon Stn. (line 9, ex. 7). bikramyogakorea.co.kr 02-532-2101 Bellydance Lessons with Eshe Morning, afternoon, and evening classes, plus Sunday classes at the Well Being Studio. navah@live.com Fine Art Class Myeongdong 7 -1 pm Fridays. cafe.daum.net/artd 02-771-2026

Health Focus Ballet for children — Ballet stretching — Power, Step–Hustle — Yoga for pregnant women

Caribou Coffee Popular in America, Caribou Coffee has expanded to Korea with locations at Ewha University, Sinchon, Yangjae, and Incheon Airport. Support fair trade with the Rainforest Alliance Certified coffee sold here. cariboukorea.co.kr 02-3461-5680 Restaurants

American Chili King Itaewon Beefy burgers and chili served up by owner Kevin Cyr. 02-795-1303 Bonji Bistro Just behind Itaewon Hotel and under Gecko’s Garden, Bonji Bistro offers a terrific menu of salads, sandwiches, pastas and classic tapas along with an unbeatable bar. The floor-to-ceiling window door-walls open wide, making it the perfect place to be for their delicious weekend brunch. geckosterrace.com 02-795-9656 The Frypan 02-794-5598 Gallery Through Head here to enjoy fantastic meals, parties, art, and people. 02-798-1900

02-797-9021

yogaBallet77@Daum.net Health Focus Itaewon Dance your days away with a diverse selection of classes available: child ballet, yoga, tae bo, yoga for pregnant women, pilates, diet dance, and even salsa classes. Mon–Fri Open 10 am–10 pm. 124-7 Itaewon-dong, yongsan-gu. 010-9309-9021 International Guides of Korea Courses in ice climbing, rock climbing and more. iguidekorea.com Jai Center for Yoga and Health jaicenter.co.kr 02-3443-9642 Pottery Classes at Yido Academy Gahoe-dong in Seoul. Fri 10 - 12 am. yidostyle@hanmail.net 02-744-0756 Salsa Lessons in English Top Bar near Apgujeong St. Call Crys at 010-4755-4728

Gecko’s Terrace The original Itaewon foreigner hangout, with a comfortable atmosphere, delicious food including great sandwiches, salads and pasta, and English-speaking staff that know how to make cocktails and shots right. geckosterrace.com 02-749-9425 Gecko’s Garden Legendary for its gorgeous home-style atmosphere, Gecko’s Garden has now started offering a delicious buffet, with steaks and pasta made to order. Don’t worry;

10 Magazine February 2011 | 57

SEOUL DIRECTORY the tapas menu is also still alive and well. geckosterrace.com 02-790-0540 Hollywood Grill The place for Premier League Football and other sports, Hollywood has a great menu of pizza, pasta and steaks along with darts, foosball, pool and Golden Tee. hollywoodgrill.co.kr 02-749-1659 Naked Grill Terrific Mexican food, salads and steaks, cooked up to order in a trendy atmosphere. hollywoodgrill.co.kr 02-749-1659 Pancakes Original Story Itaewon Mon – Sat 9 am – 10 pm. 02-794-0508 Pita Time Haebangchon The salads, pitas and pizzas here provide a low-calorie, healthy meal. 11 am - 10 pm. pitatime.co.kr 02-790-8891

Italian

SPANISH Bodega Jamsil With flamenco on every Friday. bodega.co.kr 02-3432-8686 Thai Buddha’s Belly Itaewon A lounge atmosphere with full bar and cocktails along with great authentic Thai food. 02-796-9330 Eat Me Itaewon Thai fusion dining and lounge, late night kitchen in Itaewon. Relax in the intimate yet casual dining area and outside patio. Sophisticated atmosphere is sure to please. 070-7624-3149 My Thai Itaewon 02-794-8090 Thai Orchid Itaewon 02-517-1135 Thai Garden Itaewon 02-792-8836

TWO GREAT LOCATIONS

B AR SHINCHON TEL:(02)3339733

P IZ ZA ITAEWON TEL:(02)7920007

SEOUL w w w. be e ro c l o ck .c a

The Pizza Peel Itaewon Offering fresh classic Italian and Western-style pizzas. Enjoy with beer or wine. We are hard to find but easy to remember! Dine in or take out. 02-795-3283 Suji’s Itaewon Great American fare in a New York-style bistro atmosphere. sujis.net 02-797-3698

All day american breakfast

IBK BANK

DAESUNG CHURCH

GYEONGRIDAN NOKSAPYEONG STATION

T.G. Brunch Cafe Chef Choi from Hawaii serves a delightful brunch along with his signature burgers, sandwiches, and more. Wine W2,500 for ladies. Wednesdays wing night: 10 for W3,000. 02-749-8005 Toque Itaewon 02-794-3834 Austrian Chef Meili Itaewon 02-797-3820 BRAZILIAN Copacabana Itaewon For only W29,000 you get all-you-can-eat of 7 different cuts of roasted meat and a tremendous Brazilian buffet. Make your reservations today! 02-796-1660 Bulgarian Zelen Itaewon 02-749-0600 Chinese Ho Lee Chow Serving up the best North American-style Chinatown cuisine in Korea since 1998, with 5 convenient locations in the greater Seoul area to serve you. holeechow.co.kr. Itaewon 02-793-0802, Apgujeong 02-514-1730 Jamshil 02-411-0688, Dogok 02-34614468, Bundang 02-711-9071 French La Cigale Monmartre Itaewon 02-796-1244 Le Saint-Ex Itaewon 02-795-2465

58 | 10 Magazine February 2011

Antonio’s Apgujeong Join chef Sebastiano Giangregorio for an authentic Italian culinary experience. Live jazz performances: Tuesday–Saturday, starting at 7:30 pm and Sunday at 1 pm. 93-8 Cheongdam-dong Gangnamgu. antonios.kr 02-3443-4333 Fradia Gangnam Gaze out on a panoramic view of the Seoul skyline as you dine on choice Italian food at this cafe floating on the Han River. fradia.co.kr 02-3477-0033 La Bocca Itaewon We can’t decide whether it’s a cafe, pastry shop, deli, or wine bar, but what we are sure about is that the food is fresh and the taste is divine. labocca.co.kr 02-790-5907 Sortino’s Cucina Itaewon Classic Italian trattoria cuisine in a comfortable, homey atmosphere. 02-797-0488 Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong 02-790-0776 Villa Sortino’s Itaewon An incredible Tuscan Villa interior matches perfectly with some delicately prepared Italian flavors. Just across from the Itaewon fire station. 02-553-900 korean Bulgogi Brothers Delicious Koreanstyle barbecue at locations throughout Seoul including Gangnam, Myeongdong (02-319-3351), Seoul Station, and Times Square. 11:30 am - 10 pm. bulgogibros.com Pulhyanggi Gangnam A tasty concoction of traditional Korean dishes and a contemporary slow-food sensibility, plus performances in the evenings. Close to COEX. 11 am – 10 pm. pulhyanggi.co.kr 02-539-3390 Mexican Amigos Itaewon 02-795-9711 On the Border The #1 American chain hits that craving for fajitas, chimichangas, tacos, burritos, enchiladas and even margaritas. ontheborder.co.kr Sinchon: 02-324-0682 COEX: 02-565-0682 Times Square: 02-2672-0682 Pancho’s Itaewon 02-792-4767 Taco Amigo Itaewon 02-749-5253 Tomatillo Grill Locations at Jonggak Stn., Samseong Stn., and Yeoksam Stn. tomatillo.co.kr 02-734-9225 Middle Eastern Istanbul Noksapyeong 02-796-0271 Marakech Nights Itaewon 02-795-9441 Petra Itaewon 02-790-4433

Wang Thai Itaewon Prepared by locally trained chefs, Wang Thai offers only the best of Thai food. Enjoy delicious food in an exotic ambience. 02-749-2746~7 Bars/Lounges/Pubs

Wine Bars Dulce Y Suave Garosugil Stop by this classy Sinsa-dong wine bar for an extensive wine list that won’t break your budget. 5 pm - 3 am. club.cyworld. com/dulceysuave. 02-515-6750 Vin Ga Apgujeong Immaculate service and a subdued atmosphere make this the wine bar of choice for dinner parties and business meetings. Podo Plaza building near Apgujeong St. podoplaza.co.kr 02-516-1761 Lounges / PUBS 3 Alley Pub Itaewon Rub shoulders with long-term Seoul expats and try your hands at darts or pool in this comfortable foreigner-owned pub. 116-15 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. 3alleypub.com 02-749-3336

Beer O’Clock The bar in Sinchon has darts and several sports on big-screen TVs with great food. The Kyeongnidan location will satisfy your Canadian-style pizza needs. Beer O’Clock serves up good times. Sinchon: 02-333-9733 Berlin Noksapyeong Combining a restaurant, cafe and lounge, Berlin boasts a varied menu, plus wines and all types of music. Noksapyeong St. (line 6). 457-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. awakeinseoul@gmail.com 02-749-0903

Between Itaewon This multi-level lounge serves contemporary Italian and Spanish mains, lunch, brunch and tapas in a sophisticated atmosphere with live DJs and a spacious terrace. 124-7 Yongsangu, Itaewon-dong. 02-795-6164 Bliss Itaewon Fresh beats by DJ Shine and a reasonably priced menu. Itaewon. 4 pm – 4 am. 02-798-1125 BricX Hongdae, Itaewon Chill out at either of BricX’s two locations. Hongdae 6 pm – 5 am, 마포구 서교동 409-1, B1, 02-3141-5571. Itaewon 7 pm – 5 am, 용산구 이태원동 119-10, B1, bricx.com 02-795-5572

B1 Itaewon One of the most hopping bars in Itaewon on any given night, with guest DJs and a good vibe. 7 pm - 3 am. 02-749-6164 Bar Rouge Itaewon Luxurious wine and tapas bar in the basement of the JW Marriot in Gangnam. Happy hour Tue - Thu 6 - 9 pm. 02-6282-6763

The Bungalow Itaewon This quirky beach-themed bar has sand on the floor, swinging chairs, and candle-lit rooms. 02-793-2344 Coffee Bar K Cheongdam-dong A Japanese franchise, they may just have the best bartenders in town. Mon – Sat 6 pm - 2 am. 02-516-1970

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IBK BANK

NOKSAPYEONG STATION

SEOUL

Tony’s Aussie Bar & Bistro Itaewon Home of W6000 Guinness & Kilkenny on tap. Non–smoking environment with authentic Aussie food, beer & wine with Monday open mic and Wednesday comedy night. tonysitaewon.com 02-790-0793 Watts on Tap Sinchon Check out the parties, language exchange nights, and live music nights. 6 pm – 2 am. club.cyworld. nate.com/wattsontap 02-3142-8439 Wolfhound Itaewon Terrific Irish/British classic food in a true Irish Pub atmosphere, including shepherd’s pie, toad in a hole, fish n’ chips, bangers n’ mash along with Guinness and Kilkenny on draft. wolfhoundpub.com 02-749-7971 Live Music

Jazz All That Jazz Itaewon 02-795-5701 Cheonnyeondongando (천년동안도) Daehangno (Hyehwa St. Line4) chunnyun.com 02-743-5555 Club Evans Hongdae clubevans.com 02-337-8361 Club Palm Hongdae clubpalm.co.kr 02-336-9016 Once in a Blue Moon Apgujeong onceinabluemoon.co.kr 02-549-5490

InterContinental Hotel Oakwood Premier Woori Bank Teheranno

COEX

The Concorde Classic and cozy, this wine and martini bar offers an intimate and timeless atmosphere. Reuben sandwiches, quiche, soups and salads available till 1:00 am. 02-749-1210 Dillinger’s A classic-styled bar with seven beers on tap, great food and drink specials. Come enjoy our large flatscreen TVs, dartboards and Wii games. A great atmosphere for you and your friends. 02-793-7232 Ghetto Vox Itaewon Itaewon’s first art and music space. 32-5 (3rd floor) Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. ghettovox.com 010-3370-2979 Mike’s Cabin Sinchon This Western bar has a casual atmosphere and holds special events. Near the Yonsei University front gate. 02-325-7808 Monghwan Sinchon Come for the nice décor, live art and music events, and the signature cocktail soju. club. cyworld.com/monghwan 02-325-6218 Monkey Beach Apgujeong Thailand is just a subway ride away if you head to Monkey Beach. 7:30 pm – 5 am. 02-548-7930 Mix Lounge Garosu-gil It may look like a white greenhouse, but it’s actually a bar serving killer mojitos, lychee martinis and more. 6 pm – 3 am. Closed Sun. 011-9650-7055 Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong Great home-style Italian cuisine with late night cocktail lounge. 02-790-0776 Platoon Kunsthalle Apgujeong Showcasing underground artists and a fine selection of cutting-edge performances. 11 am – 1 am. Closed Sun. 97-22 Gangnam-gu, Nonhyeondong. kunsthalle.com 02-3447-1191 Rocky Mountain Tavern Itaewon Canadians feel right at home with all the hockey jerseys hanging on the walls and great live music and events, along with some of the best buffalo wings in Korea. Don’t miss the Stand Up Seoul comedy night the first Thursday of each month. rockymountaintavern.com 010-5775-2327 Roofers Itaewon Come hang out in a warm, friendly atmosphere. Sample the mouthwatering menu, relax on the spacious rooftop and enjoy numerous expat events. Facebook: Roofers Rooftop Bar. 02-749-2970 Sam Ryan’s Itaewon This newcomer to the Itaewon scene offers sports fans eight flat screens throughout the bar along with the meanest plate of pork ribs to be found in Seoul. samryans.com 02-749-7933 Scrooge Pub/Dicken’s Lounge Itaewon A great little sports bar with pool, darts, delicious food and plenty of English-speaking staff. 02-797-8201 Seventy Four Cheongdam-dong A beautiful date spot featuring exotic drinks such as cheese martinis, banana mojitos and cuba libres. 7 pm – 4 am. 02-542-7412 So Much More Apgujeong Combining a hip interior design with the hottest music and the coolest drinks. Noon - 2 am. blog.naver.com/ so_much_more 02-3447-7890

Hyundai Department Store

LINE Line 22 Samseong Stn.

Tokyo Jazz Authentic jazz music performed Mon-Sat, 9:30 pm - 12:30 am by European, American, and Korean musicians. Two minute’s walking distance from the COEX and Grand InterContinental Hotels. 153-44 Samsung-dong. 02-3453-4472 Rock Freebird Hongdae cafe.navercom/ clubfreebird 02-335-4576 Jammers Hongdae jammers.co.kr 02- 325-3914 Just Blues Apgujeong justblues.co.kr 02-542-4788

10 Magazine February 2011 | 59

SEOUL DIRECTORY SoundHolic Hongdae cafe.daum.net/ SoundHolic 02-3142-4233 Clubs

Club Hamilton Hotel Fire Station

n Statio

Itaewo

KB Bank

Police Station

Saab Hongdae Fashion-conscious twenty-somethings congregate here for a wide variety of music styles. Weekdays 6 pm – 4 am, weekends 6 pm – 6 am. W10,000 cover on weekends. 02-324-6929 Volume Itaewon A true “music lovers” club, Volume is found in the basement of Crown Hotel. Fri and Sat 9 pm - 6 am. W15,000 - W30,000. Crown Hotel B1 clubvolume.com 1544-2635 Woo Bar Check out the split-level lobby lounge for cool music and exclusive parties. No cover charge. 21 Gwangjang-dong wseoul.com 02-465-2222 Massage

[ Itaewon Station Exit 3 ] Tel: 793.2333

SEOUL

America Latina Itaewon opens at 8 pm Wednesdays to Sundays and offers Salsa classes. Check Facebook group: Club America Latina in Seoul. Answer Cheongdam-dong After a short-lived stint as gala restaurant Le Nuit Blanche, the club we all know and love is back. clubanswer.co.kr 02-514-4311 Ben @Blue Spirit Hongdae Great Japanese curry during the day and soju cocktails at night. Hit up the weekend parties. 360-18 SeokyoDong, Mapo-Gu. 02-3142-5301 Eden Gangnam Mega club with top DJs, sizzling sound, and model nights. 역삼동 602 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnamgu, Ritz Carlton Hotel. eden-club.co.kr 010-9913-3919 Function Itaewon The boutique club hidden in the fancy Macaroni Market restaurant. Tue, Wed, Thu 6 pm – 2:30 am; Fri and Sat 6 pm-3:30 am. 737-50 Hannnam1-dong Yongsan-gu. 02-749-9181 Heaven Gangnam The newest member of Seoul’s club scene combines top-notch technology with divine DJs spinning house and electro beats. W30,000 general admission, W40,000 for after club hours. Near Yeoksam St. clubheaven.co.kr 02-3444-4997 J.J. Mahoney’s The drinks don’t come cheap, but this nightclub at the Grand Hyatt is a favorite with the over-30s crowd. 747-7 Hannam 2-dong. seoul.grand.hyatt.com 02-797-1234 Koobar @Blue Spirit Apgujeong Hip music for a classy crowd. 664-11 Shinsadong, Gangnam-gu. 02-518-5115 M2 Hongdae This long-running club is party central for college students. Sun – Thu 8 pm – 4 am, Fri and Sat 7:30 pm – 6 am. Cover starts at W10,000. 367-11 Seogyo-dong Mapo-gu. ohoo.net/m2 02-3143-7573 Mansion Hongdae This new club pumps out sizzling house, electro, and nu-disco grooves, bringing in quality acts like Roni Size and Goldie. mansionseoul@ gmail.com 02-3143-4037 Mass Gangnam The dance club for the “masses.” 9 pm – 6 am. Sun – Thu W15,000, Fri and Sat W20,000. clubmass.net 02-599-3165 NB Hongdae, Gangnam Supposedly the first hip-hop club in Korea, it has one bar, two stages, and a packed crowd. clubnb.com 02-326-1716 Pulse Itaewon This chilled-out club pumps out danceable tunes in all genres of electronic music until sunrise. Everyday 8 pm – 7 am. Fri W10,000, Sat W15,000. 02-792-6662 Q-vo Hongdae A popular hip hop club with strobes pulsing above the dance floor. Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun 8 pm – 4 am and Wed, Fri, Sat 8 pm – 6:30 am. W10,000 - W15,000. 121-210 Ohoo B/ D 367-1 Seogyo Dong. clubqvo.co.kr 02-3143-7573

60 | 10 Magazine February 2011

Healing Hands Massage Studio healinghands.co.kr 070-7504-8090 Beauty

Marie&M Gangnam The right haircut makes all the difference! All staff at this salon are qualified by Vidal Sassoon. 02-512-3798

English-speaking Staff High light and Low light Cutting Styling Hair spa

Hongik Univ. Line 2 Hongdae St.

Coffee Bean

Samgeori Pocha

Record Mom & Shop Dad

Tony&Guy Whether it’s a cut, highlight, low light, or hair spa that you want, you’re guaranteed to get professional service from the English-speaking stylists at Toni & Guy. Near Hongik University. 02-338-2773 Florists

Oxana Garden You are invited to the botanical life. Enjoy the fresh aroma and the cozy environment these plants will bring to your home. Find the perfect flower among the various options on sale here. Hannam St. (Jungang line). oxanagarden.com 02-798-6787 Community

Brazilians in Seoul Also known as Brasileiros em Seul, this group meets up on the 3rd Tuesday of each month. alocoreia@gmail.com 010-9631-2133 Gangnam Hills Toastmasters Club Helping you develop oral communication and leadership skills. koreatraining@ yahoo.com 010-8779-1969 Republicans Abroad Monthly meetings, events, and lectures for supporters of the USA Republican Party. kmohay@ hotmail.com 010-8688-9810

To inquire about getting a logobox for your business, email us at marketing@10magazine.asia

Art Through February 16th Miss Hong Plays the Guitar: The Exhibit Ilhyun Art Museum in Yangyang-gun. 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W2,000, students W1,500. ilhyunmuseum.or.kr 033-670-8450 Through February 24th 3D Art: Fairy Tales The use of reflective paint, perspective, and shading in these 2D paintings makes them appear lifelike. Based upon fairy tales, traditional stories, and fables, they will stimulate children’s scientific sense while imparting lessons about life and culture. Children W10,000, adults W9,000. Chuncheon Culture and Arts Center. ccac.or.kr 033-252-2178

Family & Community

February 12th - 20th

Foreigner Assistance Chuncheon Online Info tour.chuncheon.go.kr/eng

Libraries Chuncheon City Library iccl.or.kr 033-254-3887 Taebaek Municipal Library tbmlib.or.kr 033-550-2755

Amusement Parks Dreamland Amusement Park With a large zoo and plenty of rides, there’s lots of fun to be found at this park at Chiak Mountain near Wonju. W20,000 for adults, W18,000 for children. mydreamland.co.kr 033-732-5800

Museums Bangsan Porcelain Museum Yanggu-gun bangsanm.or.kr 033-480-2664 Chuncheon Makguksu Museum makguksumuseum.com 033-250-4134 Haslla Art World Gangneung haslla.kr 033-644-9411 Marisorigol Musical Instrument Museum Hongcheon-gun great.go.kr 033-430-2016 Sokbong Ceramic Museum Sokcho dogong.net 033-638-7711 Teddy Bear Farm Sokcho teddyfarm.net 033-636-3680 Wonju Hanji Museum Wonju wjhanji.co.kr 033-731-2323

Hotels/Accommodations

Daegwallyeong Snow Festival Set at a high altitude, this festival has football on ice, a barbecue party, an ice-carving contest, a singing contest, a photography contest, an igloo zone and many more activities. Hoenggyeri district in Daegwallyeong-myeon, Pyeongchang-gun. dsnow2.myinplus. com 033-336-6112

Education & Conferences Ongoing Free Farm Music Lessons Every Saturday from 2 - 4 pm you have the chance to try your hand at learning to play traditional Korean music with these free lessons offered at the Gangneung Nongak Classroom. gnnongak.or.kr 033-642-4470 Through February 13th Romance and Memories of Chuncheon From the righteous armies of the late Joseon period to the romantic scenes of Winter Sonata, Chuncheon has its share of cultural significance that shouldn’t be missed. The story of the city’s romance, memories, and beauty are told through 150 items on display. Chuncheon National Museum. Weekdays 9 am – 6 pm, weekend 9 am – 7 pm. Free. chuncheon.museum.go.kr 033-260-1500

Sport & Fitness April 3rd 2011 Samchuk Young-jo Hwang International Marathon Out of shape after winter? Register for the International Marathon in Samchuk. 5 km, 10 km, half, full to depart from Samchuk Expo Square. The marathon begins at 9 am. Register by March 10th. run1080.com 042-638-1080

Get Cosy in Goseong

You don’t have to be a student to feel at home at this Kyungdong University-area coffee shop. Located just outside Kyungdong University near Bongpo-ri Beach in Goseong-gun is a quaint little coffee shop called Dimeo that is a popular choice for students and locals. With its quiet surroundings and unassuming appearance, you might not expect it to be anything special. However, walking into Dimeo will remind you of coming home. The cosy atmosphere and the ever-present smiles of the staff are soothing to many who stop by to seek escape from the pressures of school and work. Dimeo offers a variety of beverages common to many coffee shops, but it’s the food that has many coming back. Homemade cookies and mouth-watering pastries are baked fresh daily to satisfy even the most fickle of palates. There is a set menu, but be sure to ask the barista if any specials are being served for an extra treat. Whether chilling with friends or cramming for a test, Dimeo offers an ideal environment for any number of social occasions. Whatever your reason may be, Dimeo will provide you with comfort and ease. And don’t be too shy to try the more traditional style of seating arrangement (i.e. the floor). When was the last time you saw a coffee shop with ondol? Getting There

Hotel Inter-Burgo Wonju wonju.inter-burgo.com 033-766-8000 W Hotel Wonju w-hotel.co.kr 033-742-5454

Medical Services Gangwon National University Hospital Chuncheon knuh.or.kr/html/index.asp 033-258-2000 Gangnam Hospital Chuncheon ekangnam.co.kr 033-240-7000 Hyundai Animal Clinic Chuncheon dog7582.co.kr 033-256-7582 Ye Dental Clinic Chuncheon ccye.co.kr 033-262-2078

Restaurants Acozza Cafe Wonju Classy pizzas served in chic industrial décor. acozza.co.kr 033-766-7999

Dimeo is easily accessible by cab or bus from the Sokcho Bus Terminal. Cab: simply tell the driver to take you to Kyungdong University and you’ll find the little coffee shop situated right outside campus next to the Family Mart. Bus: take any bus headed to Bongpo-ri beach and get off there. Walk the short distance towards Kyungdong University, the tallest building in sight. Once you pass under a bridge, you’ll see it right next to the Family Mart. Note that Dimeo was closed for the winter vacation and is opening back up again in the middle of February. Tel: 033-637-8663 (owner’s Wor ds a n d shots by Ev Ta bh a n number 010-4472-8663) 10 Magazine February 2011 | 61

GANGWON

Through February 6th Pyeongchang Trout Festival In addition to the ice fishing and trout tasting you might expect to find here, there are also snow and ice game zones where you can hop on ice bumper cars or an ice bike. Ice fish all day long for W10,000 or get admission to the play zone for W5,000. Jinbu-myeon in Pyeongchanggun. festival700.or.kr 033-336-4000

gangwon PROVINCE

e di tor’ s pick

Made in Popland Through February 20th

The Tea House That Dares You to Leave F oodi e f i n d s

You cannot say you’ve experienced Suwon until you’ve visited this tea shop. “Can you get out of here?” This is scrawled on the wall of one of Suwon’s best tea houses: Siingwa Nongbu (시인과 농부)— The Poet and the Farmer. At first you might think it’s someone’s request to be left alone, but then you realize it’s a challenge for you to leave. Guess what? It isn’t easy. The atmosphere in this place achieves what all the coffee and tea chains try desperately to do: create a place where customers feel at home. This is all thanks to the owner. She is part enigma, part inspiration and part generous host. Every piece of art, every book, every LP record has been lovingly placed there by her. This alone sets it apart from the bigger chains. Every picture of classical music, film poster, poem, artwork, and thank-you note scribbled on a post-it gives you a glimpse into who she is. Since she opened the teahouse in the mid 80s, it has become a haven for poets and artists alike (though possibly not farmers). She is also a master tea server. Every Korean traditional tea is offered and served in the proper way. Come into the shop on a chilly day coughing and she will treat you like a combination of mother and apothecary, serving you a tea that will cure your cold. From Nammun (also known as Paldalmun) in Suwon, start with the Paris Baguette on your right. Walk past the crosswalk in front of Nammun until you see a taxi line up. From here, turn down the next alley on your right. You should see the green sign reading 시농 (Sinong, the abbreviation for “The Poet and the Farmer.” Closed Tuesday. 031-245-0049

Getting There

Wor ds a n d shots by Der ek W inchester

W ith special tha n ks to patr ick con way

62 | 10 Magazine February 2011

Art

Images: it’s hard to get away from them in our society of mass production and mass consumption. The art work in this exhibit draws upon these popular images in an attempt to comment upon and critique political and cultural issues in society today. The exhibit is divided into four sections titled Heroes of the General Public, Society of the Spectacle, Return of the Repressed, and Pain of the Other. Click around on the Korean site to find English explanations and even previews of the artwork on display. National Museum of Contemporary Art in Gwacheon. Seoul Grand Park Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). 10 am – 5 pm. Weekends 10 am – 8 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W5,000, students W2,500. Decent English website. popland.moca.go.kr 02-2188-6000. Art Ongoing The Year of the Rabbit Featuring traditional Korean artifacts with rabbits, the exhibition also shows more recent additions to Korea’s rabbit pantheon, including Mashimaro, a popular Korean animated character created by Kim Jae-in. Gyeonggi Provincial Museum in Yongin. 10 am – 6 pm. Free. www. musenet.or.kr 031-288-5300 Through February 20th Theo Jansen “Animals Modular” Exhibition Dutch artist-engineer Jansen uses simple ingredients like cable ties and plastic tubes to create massive skeletonlike structures that use the power of the wind to walk by themselves. Gwacheon National Science Museum. Seoul Grand Park Stn. (line 4, ex. 5). 9:30 am - 7:30 pm. Adults W13,000, teens W8,000, children W4,000. theojansen.co.kr 1566-0329 Through February 27th Ancient Artifacts From Liaoning Historians believe that much of Korean bronze age culture originated in Liaoning, the northeastern province of China that contains the cities of Shenyang and Dalian. Learn more about ancient links between China and Korea with the 300 bronze age artifacts on loan from three Liaoning museums and research institutes at the Gyeonggi Provincial Museum in Yongin. 10 am - 10 pm. Free. www.musenet.or.kr 031-288-5300 Through March 20th International Cartoon & Art Festival 2010 This exhibition is oriented around cartoons, caricatures and graphic

novels from a variety of local and foreign artists. Aram Nuri Arts Center in Goyang. Jeongbalsan Stn. (line 3, ex. 3). Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun 10 am - 6 pm. Fri & Sat 10 am - 8 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W9,000, students W7,000, children W5,000. artgy.or.kr 031-960-0182 Jean-Jacques Sempe Illustration Exhibit This French illustrator and comic artist has illustrated everything from the Le Petit Nicholas series of books to the cover of The New Yorker magazine. 120 originals and 100 copies are on display at the Aram Nuri Arts Center in Goyang. Jeongbalsan St. (line 3, ex. 3). Tue to Thu, Sun: 10 am 6 pm. Fri, Sat: 10 am – 8pm. Closed Mon. Adults W11,000, students W8,000, kids W6,000. artgy.or.kr 031-960-0180 Through March 27th Forgotten War, Divided Country This collection shows you bloody scenes of war through the eyes of Korean artists. National Museum of Contemporary Art in Gwacheon. Seoul Grand Park Stn. (line 4, ex. 2) Weekdays 10 am - 5 pm, weekends 10 am - 8 pm, closed Mon. moca.go.kr 02-2188-6000

Theater & Dance Through March 27th Aida: The Musical Will Radames choose Aida or remain loyal to his state? Watch as the Egyptian general struggles between love and duty in this version of Giuseppe Verdi’s original Italian opera. Seongnam Arts Center near exit 1 of Imae Stn. on the Bundang line. Weekdays 8 pm, Sat 3 & 7:30 pm, Sun 2 & 6:30 pm, closed Mon. W40,000 W120,000. snart.or.kr 1544-8117

GYEONGGI CALENDAR Concerts February 12th Seungchul Lee Valentine’s Day Concert Korean rock star Seungchul Lee brings an orchestra along to help you celebrate the romantic holiday. Aram Nuri Arts Center in Goyang. Jeongbalsan Stn. (line 3, ex. 3). 4 pm & 8 pm. W66,000 W110,000. artgy.or.kr 1588-4992 February 12th - 13th The Illusion Korea’s most popular magician Eungyeol Lee will take your breath away with his fantastic magic show. Aram Nuri Arts Center in Goyang. Jeongbalsan Stn. (line 3, ex. 3). Sat 3 pm & 7:30 pm, Sun 2 pm & 6:30 pm. W55,000 - W66,000. artgy.or.kr 1566-7754 February 24th Aram Nuri Matinee Concert Starting in February, the Aram Nuri Arts Center will be featuring famous composers from major musical cities all over Europe. Well-known Finnish composer J. Sibelius is the first in line. Aram Nuri Arts Center in Goyang. Jeongbalsan Stn. (line 3, ex. 3). 11 am. W15,000. artgy.or.kr 1577-7766

Family & Community Through February 6th “Warm Seoul Zoo” Winter Trip Activities include a concert, free shuttle bus, and a magic show with zookeeper Sang-rim Lee. Seoul Zoo near Seoul Grand Park Stn. (line 4). 1 - 5 pm. grandpark.seoul.go.kr 02-500-7338 Through February 7th Cheongpyeng Snow-flower Trout Festival Share happy memories at the festival with your loved ones. You can ride in a sleigh on the ice, catch trout and taste it right away at the festival. The view at night will also be amazing with lighted decorations on the ice. In Gapyeong-gun 5 minutes from Cheongpyeong Station. 9 am - 8 pm. Adults W13,000, elementary school students W8,000. cpfestival.net 031-585-9449 Through February 12th Tooniverse Character Festival Luffy, Conan, and other characters from the cartoons broadcast on the Tooniverse channel. KINTEX in Goyang (Ilsan), Daehwa Stn. (line 3, ex. 2). Weekdays 10 am – 6 pm, weekends 10 am – 7 pm. Adults W10,000, children W13,000. characterfestival.com 031-995-8580 Through February 27th Amazing Museum This entertaining art exhibit is designed with kids in mind. Seongnam Arts Center near exit 1 of Imae Stn. on the Bundang line. 10:30 am – 6:30 pm. W12,000. wageul.com 031783-8279 Incheon Songdo Kids Park Here’s a solution for children who are looking for fun this winter but don’t want to brave the cold. Themed trampolines and an indoor sledding slope. Songdo Convensia in Incheon. Incheon University Stn. (Incheon line 1). Adults W12,000, kids W14,000. kids-park.co.kr 1688-7608 Through February 28th Winter Light Show at the Garden of Morning Calm The Garden of Morning

e di tor’ s pick

Through March 1st Everland Snow Festival One of Korea’s best amusements parks just got better! Everland will transform into a snowy, wintry wonderland with a snow village, rabbit petting zoo, playground full of games and activities and light festivals. Everland Resort in Yongin. 10 am - 7 pm. everland.com 031-320-5000 Winter Air Kids Land This palace of games, activities and rides is a great hideaway for children and parents to escape from the cold. Goyang Flower Exhibition (Ilsan). 10 am - 7 pm. Adults W11,000, children W13,000. airkidsland.com 031-904-9048 February 4th - 6th Yeoju Goguma Festival Hot potatoes! Sweet potatoes! This festival is centered on one of Korea’s favorite healthy winter snacks: grilled sweet potatoes. There will be many winter activities and games for everyone to enjoy. Silleuk Temple in Yeojugun. yeojugoguma.com 031-884-4926 February 10th - 13th Mom & Baby Expo 2011 You can never be too prepared for a newborn. This exhibition educates you about everything your infant will need. KINTEX in Goyang (Ilsan). Daehwa Stn. (line 3, ex. 2). 10 am - 6 pm. momnbabyexpo.co.kr 02-2236-2771

Education & Conferences Through January 30th Three Points of View: The RussoJapanese War At the time, Korea seemed to be a disinterested bystander in the Russo-Japanese War, but a few years later it was annexed by Japan. This exhibit examines the attitudes of surrounding nations to construct a new theory of the effect of the war on Korean history. Incheon Metropolitan City Museum. museum.incheon.go.kr 02-440-6734 Through February 13th 2010 Nobel Science Exhibition Plenty of hands-on activities teach children scientific principles. KINTEX in Goyang (Ilsan), Daehwa Stn. (line 3, ex. 2). 10 am – 6 pm. Adults & students W9,000, kids W8,000. nobel.or.kr 1688-9051 Through February 28th Onggi@Korea Exhibit Rediscover these ceramic pots that were widely used in Korea before the cheap price of plastic virtually eliminated their use in the 1960s. Gyeonggi Ceramic Museum in Gwangju. 9 am – 6 pm. Free. ggcm.or.kr 031-799-1500 Rare Insects of the World Gunpo Culture & Art Center. 10 am - 6 pm, W9,000. gunpoart.net 031-390-3500 Through March 1st Exciting Exploration of the Body Follow a guided tour through giant-size models of the various parts of the body, in at the mouth and out through the digestive tract. Gyeonggi Arts Center. 10 am - 6 pm. W12,000. Closed Feb 2nd 4th. ggac.or.kr 031-230-3244

Sport & Fitness Dozens of volleyball and basketball games are scheduled for this month. Volleyball games are listed on the website at kovo.co.kr (mostly Korean, though English schedules are also listed). Men’s basketball games are listed on kbl.or.kr (Korean only) and women’s games at wkbl.or.kr (also Korean only).

Fairy Tale Light Festival Through March 31st

Family & Community

Santa, Venice, and herbs? An unlikely combination, perhaps, but that just adds to the ironic fun to be had at Herb Island in Pocheon (not an actual island). The “light” part of the festival starts each evening at sunset when three million lights twinkle into action. Christmas may be long gone, but Santa Village preserves the holiday spirit through March with unseasonal activities like decorating trees and singing carols. Or head over to Venice Village, which has gondolas and canals—as well as Latin dances, hip hop, and other performances that don’t sound very Italian. Don’t forget the jasmine, lavender, and other herbs that bloom year-round at the large indoor herbarium (6,600m 2). Take bus #57 from Soyosan Stn. (line 1). Open all year round from 10 am - 10 pm, but the lights come on at sundown (around 5 pm). herbisland.co.kr 031-535-6494

gyeongGI province Religious Services

Grace & Truth Church Anyang, Ansan, and Suwon Sunday 9:30 am, 11 am, 1 pm, grace-truth.org 031-443-3731 Dongsan Church Ansan Sunday 11:30 am, 010-2910-7809 Museums

Central America Culture Center Goyang. latina.or.kr 031-962-7171 Elvis Presley Memorial Hall Paju paju.go.kr 031-948-3358 Face Museum Gwangju (Gyeonggi Province). visagej.org 031-765-3522 Korean Lamp (Deung-Jan) Museum Yongin deungjan.or.kr/eng 031-334-0797 Waltz & Dr. Mahn Coffee Museum Namyangju wndcof.com 031-576-6051

café and wine bar. cafenicolia.com 032-329-0526 La Mia Cucina Ilsan The kitchen is always open at this English-friendly Italian pub. 7 pm – 4 am. 010-2327-8882 First Nepal Restaurant Incheon firstnepal.com 032-525-8771 Bars/Lounges/Pubs

The Big Chill Suwon Chill out in a big way with the friendly crowd while enjoying a game of pool, darts, or wii. Opens 8 pm on Wed – Sat and 4 pm on Sun. Facebook group, edwardjorgensen@gmail.com 010-3136-0153 The Park Bucheon Rhythm & Blues Bucheon 032-323-0161 West Island Ilsan 031-917-2225

Transportation

International Taxi (English speaking) 1644-2255 Jumbo Taxi Service (more expensive) 02-888-2000 Radio

US Armed Forces Network Dongducheon AM 1197/FM 88.3 Pyongtaek AM 1440/FM 88.3 Songtan AM 1359/FM 88.5 Uijeongbu AM 1161/FM 88.5 Restaurants

Cafe Nicolia Bucheon European-style

Jukjeon Gecko’s Yongin Bundang and Yongin expats should be ecstatic to know that the famous Gecko’s chain is expanding south. Near the Shinsegye department store. geckosterrace.com 031-262-9974 Clubs

Club Psycho Anyang bcmusicworld.com

010-7754-0409

10 Magazine February 2011 | 63

GYEONGGI

Great Composer Series N.RimskyKorsakov’s Capriccio Espagnol Op. 34, M. Balakirev’s Piano Concerto Op.1, and M. P. Mussorgsky’s Pictures at an Exhibition. Incheon Culture and Arts Center near Arts Center Stn. (Incheon line). 7:30 pm. W5,000 - W10,000. art.incheon.go.kr 032-427-8401

Calm in Gapyeong-gun. 5:30 – 8:30 pm (9 pm on Fri, Sat, & Sun). W3,000 –W6,000. morningcalm.co.kr 1544-6703

CHUNGCHEONG CALENDAR Art

foodi e f i n d s Ongoing

February 24th - 26th Daejeon Changeup Business Expo Daejeon Convention Center (DCC). Thu & Fri 11 am - 6 pm, Sat 11 am - 5 pm. dcckorea.or.kr 042-821-0114

Fresco Murals With work by artists from Michelangelo to da Vinci, this exhibit allows you to experience the rich history and culture of the Renaissance and other early time periods. Even if you’re not an art history buff, you can truly appreciate these paintings. Asia Museum in Daejeon. 10 am – 6 pm, Sun 1 – 6 pm. Closed Mon. W6,000 - W12,000. asiamuseum.asia 042-863-0055 Through February 6th The Flower on the Snow To mark the 60th anniversary of the war, this exhibition will display 150 pieces of art. Daejeon Museum of Art. 10 am - 7 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W500, students and children W300. dmma.metro.daejeon.kr 042-602-3225

Brews, Bacon and a Bronze Buddha Cheonan’s famous Buddha isn’t the only thing hidden in these hills.

CHUNGCHEONG

Tourists on their way to Taejo Mountain may be surprised to stumble upon Coffee Tree on a Hill 언덕위 커피나무, a quaint, spacious coffee roastery and cafe. The menu includes coffees from a dozen different countries, scrumptious sandwiches, and lush desserts. The coffee beans are delivered green and roasted on the premises. A single cup may seem pricey at W5,000, but they do provide hourly refills of whatever is brewing. Complement your coffee with a bacon and chicken sandwich, loaded with savory grilled onions and peppers, fresh tomatoes, pickles, and a tangy sauce that makes a napkin mandatory. Be sure they make the bacon crispy (basakbasakhage haejuseyo 바삭바삭하게 해주세요). Dessert options include the thick, creamy New York Cheesecake. Or try the Big Brulee Cheese Bar, with chocolate chips sunk into the crust, which has just the right combo of tangy and sweet to match a steaming cup of black coffee. Perhaps the best part of Coffee Tree on a Hill, though, is the hill itself. Taejo Mountain is well within walking distance, as is Cheonan’s famous bronze Buddha. A morning walk on the mountain is a beautiful set up for a peaceful afternoon with a good book and freshly roasted coffee. Be aware that Coffee Tree is open late—but also opens late (around 11:30 am). Conversely, the temple complex is open early but closes at sundown. Take the #24 bus from the Cheonan Bus Terminal (on the Dunkin Donuts side of the street). Wait until the very last stop (about 20 minutes). Walk down the hill to the first gravel driveway and turn right. Coffee Tree on a Hill is on the second floor of the orange brick building. 129-4 Anseodong, Dongnam-gu, Cheonan, 2nd floor. Tel: 041-567-1655.

Getting There

64 | 10 Magazine February 2011

Through February 27th Soul of Line Exhibit View the magnificent artwork of Eungno Lee, one of Korea’s leading artists who gained world-wide fame. Ungnolee Museum in Daejeon. 10 am – 6 pm. Until 9 pm on Fri. Closed Mon. ungnolee. daejeon.go.kr 042-602-3270 Through March 31st Masterpieces from the Collections of Eunjin Song’s Family Daejeon Prehistoric Museum. 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. museum.daejeon.go.kr 042-826-2814

Performances February 12th - 14th Musical: Valentine Lunatic Feel like getting a little crazy on Valentine’s Day weekend? This best-selling musical is sure to have you laughing all the way to the loony bin. In Korean. CMB Expo Arthall. Saturday 4 & 8 pm, Sunday 3 & 7:30pm, Mon 8 pm. W30,000 W38,500. cmbart.com 1544-7458

Family & Community Through February 6th Chilgab Mountain Ice Fountain Festival The cold weather shouldn’t keep you from going outdoors! Head here to enjoy the ice sculptures, sledding, as well as many other fun winter activities for the whole family. Alps Village in Cheonjang-li, Cheongyanggun. alpsvill.com 041-942-0797 Through February 13th Cheonan Outdoor Skating Oryunmun square at Cheonan stadium. 10 am - 6 pm. W2,000. stadium. cheonan.go.kr 041-622-1325 Through February 20th Happy Winter Festival When it’s too cold to play outdoors, bring your kids to this massive play place. Tots will have fun with slides, 3D movie screenings, and sports activities. Kotra Trade Exhibition Center in Daejeon. 10 am - 7 pm. kotrex.com 1588-2532

Sacks of coffee beans Wor ds by Joshua Browa rd

Education & Conference

Through February 27th Sledding Slope Skiing isn’t the only way to have fun on winter’s greatest gift to us. Rent a sled and have a blast sliding down the slope at Sangnok Resort in east Cheonan. W4,800 - W10,000. sangnokresort.co.kr 041-560-9053

CHUNGCHEONG PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance Daejeon International Community Center dicc.or.kr 042-223-0789

Religious Services Central Presbyterian Church Nonsan 041-736-1002 Presbyterian Church Cheonan 041-675-2008 Central Presbyterian Church Gongju 011-382-1862 Sanseong Church 042-585-8111 Daejeon jungwonh@hotmail.com

Classes Yegok Natural Dye Workshop Okcheon-gun Dye clothing or make natural soap. yegok.co.kr 043-733-0978

Entertainment O-World Amusement Park Daejeon oworld.kr 042-580-4820 Kumdori Land Daejeon kumdori.co.kr 042-862-4000

Museums Alcohol Museum: Liquorium Chungju liquorium.com 043-855-7333 Gonam Shell Mound Museum Taean-gun Anmyeon Island museum.taean.go.kr 041-670-2337 Jincheon Bell Museum Jincheon-gun jincheonbell.net 043-539-3850 Korea Traditional Architecture Museum Yesan-gun English site: ktam.or.kr 041-337-5877

Hotels/Accommodations New Korea Hotel Asan 041-542-8151 Onyang Hot Spring Hotel Asan 041-545-2141 Cheonan Central Hotel Cheonan 041-564-9100 Yuseong Hotel Daejeon 042-822-9591 The Sky Blue Bird Seosan 011-382-1862 Golden Wave Taean 041-675-2008

Medical Services Konyang International Health Care Center Daejeon kihcc.kyuh.co.kr 042-600-9978 Sun Hospital Daejeon 042-220-8000

Restaurants/Supermarkets Gasan Korean, Cheonan 041-561-9500 Spain House Spanish, Cheonan 041-571-7474 Olive Farms Buffet, Cheongju 043-215-3311

Bars/Lounges/Pubs Rolling Stones Cheonan 041-562-9824 MJ Cheongju “MJ Bar” on Facebook. 043-273-8366 Road King Cheongju 010-8301-5936 Blue Moon Cheongwon 043-285-0399 Brickhouse Sports Bar & Grill Daejeon “The Daejeon Brickhouse” on Facebook, 010-9867-0921 J-Rock Daejeon 010-4564-7721 Santa Claus Daejeon “Santa Claus 2008” on Facebook, 042-825-5500 The Shisha House Daejeon “Welcome to the Shisha House” on Facebook. 042-825-4157 Sponge Daejeon 042-471-3373

GYEONGSANG CALENDAR Art Through February 6th Henry Miller Special Exhibition A collection of his novels and paintings. Busan Museum of Art. 10 am - 6 pm. Adults W700, students W300. art.busan.go.kr 051-740-4241 The Royal Tomb of Silla Relics from Hwangnamdaechong, the Silla Dynasty royal gravesite which is the largest tomb uncovered in Korean history. Gyeongju National Museum. Closed Mon. gyeongju.museum.go.kr 054-740-7500

Through February 13th Rediscovery of Busan Artists Temporary exhibition on Busan artists Ho Lim and Sukwoo Lee. Busan Museum of Art. 10 am - 6 pm. Adults W700, students W300. art.busan.go.kr 051-740-4241 Through February 17th Great Illustrators of the World Exhibition Meet the original works of illustrators who drew the pictures in the storybooks you read as a child. Suseong Artpia in Daegu. Adults W8,000, students W4,000, children W3,000. ssartpia.or.kr 053-666-3300

the Japanese occupation period focus on how the royal palace was dismantled to build the Japanese governor’s building. Daegu National Museum. daegu.museum.go.kr 053-768-6051 Through March 10th Steve McCurry’s Photography Exhibition: ‘Unguarded Moment’ Steve McCurry is one of America’s preeminent photojournalists. Previously displayed at the Sejong Center in Seoul, the exhibit is now open at the 3.15 Art Center in Masanhoewon-gu, Changwon. 10 am - 7 pm. Closed on Feb 3rd. Adults W5,000 Students W4,000 Kids W3,000. 315art.net 055-286-0315

Theater & Dance Ongoing The Ballerina Who Fell in Love with a B-Boy This b-boy-meets-ballerina story is a genre-bending mash-up of break dance and ballet. Seomyeon BB Theater in Busan. Mon - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun 3 & 6 pm. W40,000 - W50,000. bbtheater.co.kr 051-804-2252

Through February 23th “Special Story” Exhibit Visitors are introduced to contemporary art through the work of 17 artists who have been active at Cat Studio for six months to a year. Cyan Museum in Yeongcheon, east of Daegu. 10:30 am – 5:30 pm. Closed Mon. cyanmuseum.org 054-338-9391 Through February 27th Off the Wall Fifteen exhibitors will have approximately 32 paintings and 18 sculptures on display to illustrate the versatility of clay and architecture. Clayarch Kimhae Museum in Gimhae. clayarch.org 055-340-7004

Trick Art Exhibit Escape from sharks that burst from the picture frame or hold the hand of a painted ballerina! Experience entertaining 3D versions of famous artwork and take pictures that have to be seen to be believed. Through February 20th: Daegu, EXCO. Through February 27th: Busan MBC Special Trick Art Museum. mbctrickart.com 02-789-0011 Photography Exhibition: Gloomy House, Memories and Documents These landscapes by Kang Hong-goo show the scars of modernization on Korean society and illustrate the artist’s acceptance of digital technology. Goeun Museum of Photography in Busan. 10 am - 7 pm. Closed Mon. goeunmuseum.org 051-746-0055

Through February 28th Jeju Folk Paintings Exhibition Dong-A University Museum in Busan. museum.donga.ac.kr 051-200-8493 Through March 1st Magic Art Become a part of artwork in this exhibition that makes paintings interactive and fun for the whole family. Busan Exhibition & Convention Center (BEXCO) 3-A Hall. 10 am - 10 pm. W12,000. knnart.com 051-740-8888 Through March 6th Royal Palaces of the Joseon Dynasty These pictures taken during

Wanna Be a Jokballer Markets seem to be dying out with the influx of big box stores like E-Mart and Home Plus, but hidden away in Ulsan’s ShinJeong district is one of the city’s largest traditional markets. Shinjeong Market (신정 시장) can get quite busy but during the evening things quiet down to allow for some gastronomic exploring. One of the tastier finds in the market is Hanbang Wang Jokbal (한방 왕족발). This place always has a line (much to the dismay of the tiny halmeoni selling bean sprouts next door). If you are unsure of what exactly jokbal is, it’s pig’s feet, and it’s damn tasty. For about W10,000 you can get enough jokbal to feed at least four people. G e t t i n g T h e r e Follow the signs to City Hall and continue for two blocks heading towards the Taehwa River.

Jump In its second decade, this popular martial arts comic show shows no signs of slowing. IBK Jump Theater in the basement of the Haeundae Grand Hotel. Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun and holidays 3pm, Closed Mon. W40,000 W50,000. hijump.co.kr 051-744-4885

Wor ds a n d shot by Jason Tea le

GYEONGSANG

Play Museum Explore the history of human intelligence and participate in creative and fun games that will help your kids (and you!) hone and develop mental skills. Gimhae Arts and Sports Center. 10 am - 6 pm. Closed on Feb 2 - 3. Adults W10,000, children W12,000. gasc.or.kr 055-320-1234

discovery

Through February 6th Comic Play: New Boing, Boing Korean. Changwon Art Hall Seven. Weekdays 8 pm, Sat 4 pm, 7 pm, Sun 3 pm, 6 pm, Closed Mon, Feb 1st. W30,000. cafe.naver.com/arthall7 1599-7448 Two Man Show Live Concert: Electronical Trans Pop The Japanese globally recognized musicians Tomikita and Dr. Kwan are here to rock Busan. AN Art Hall in Busan. Weekdays 8 pm, Sat 4 pm, 7 pm, Sun 2 pm, 5 pm, Closed on Mon, Tue, Feb 2nd, 3rd. wsmi.co.kr 1600-1716 Through February 20th Happy by Happenstance: The Musical Brother and sister separated from birth—and an escaped prisoner with a stuck-up former barista. Is happiness really random? In Korean. Harmonia Art Hall in Daegu. Weekdays 7:45 pm, Sat 4 pm, 7 pm, Sun 3 pm, 6 pm. Closed Mon. W35,000. ticket.interpark.com 053-254-7241 Through February 27th Romantic Comedy Play: Yesterday In Korean. Gonggan Theatre in Busan. Weekdays 8 pm, Weekends 5 pm, Closed Mon. W20,000. cafe.daum.net/say 012 051-611-8518 February 1st - 13th Family Musical: Peter Pan MBC Lotte Art Hall in Busan. Tue 10:30 am, Wed, Fri 10:30 am, 3 pm, weekends and holidays 11 am, 2 pm. Closed Mon, Thu. W20,000 - W40,000. mbcarthall.com 051-760-1357

10 Magazine February 2011 | 65

GYEONGSANG CALENDAR discovery

e di tor’ s pick

Burns Night February 19th

Café Radio

Different Characters of KSU Live music is the allure offered by several Kyungsungdae bars, while others rely on their distinct character to attract the thirsty masses. Take subway line 2 to Kyungsung/Pukyoung University. From exit 3, notice Burger Hunter on your right and maybe grab a bite before piling on the beverages. Make a U-turn coming out of the stairway and then left down the main street. Take another left at Tous Les Jours until you reach an intersection with a 7-11 on the left. For those in search of a mellow option, turn left at the 7-11 and proceed 30 meters to find Café Radio (017-551-7312) on the second floor on the left. Fans of vintage vinyl will be awestruck by the owner’s impressive collection on display – fitting décor for a guy who hosts a KBS radio show. Monthly poetry readings attract an eclectic crowd of foreigners and Koreans sharing laughs, lamentations, and everything in between. Heading right at the same intersection plunges directly into KSU’s vibrant party scene. Towards the end of the street, crowds congregate outside the large Family Mart on the right for cheap drinks. Others make their way upstairs to Eva’s (051628-5653) on the left. With a vibe like a university sports bar, Eva’s is a safe place to get a little raucous. Take a right at the large Family Mart and walk about 40 meters to find LZone (1544-7823) on the fourth floor on the left. Friday night language parties are an excellent place to mingle with other expats as well as a number of Koreans who come to make foreign friends. Rumor has it that more than one multicultural romance has blossomed from this weekly gathering (watered by all-you-can drink beer for W10,000). To find more of KSU’s colorful characters, simply follow the f locks of foreigners on the streets to their next port of call.

Wor ds by Mik e Luedk e,

shots by Josh Bennett

66 | 10 Magazine February 2011

Family & Community

To celebrate the birth of Scotland’s most famous poet Robert Burns, you’ve got to make the journey down to Geoje Island. This southern island is home to some of Korea’s largest shipyards and, consequently, engineers and technicians from all over the world (including, naturally, Scotland). Technically, Burns was born on January 25th, but the GFRA (Geoje Foreign Residents’ Association) provides this annual night of Scottish entertainment toward the end of February. The event is three years in the running and brings guests from all over the country. Anyone with a highland heritage or curiosity about Scottish customs will enjoy the night’s traditional program. After beginning with the song “My Heart’s in the Hightlands” with lyrics written by Burns himself, the program continues with a buffet (and haggis!), céilidh dancing, and poetry reading. gfra.net, info@gfra.net February 4th - 13th Menopause: The Musical In Korean. Suseong Artpia in Daegu. Weekdays 7:30 pm, Sat 3 pm, 7 pm, Sun 2 pm, 6 pm. Closed Wed, Thu. W44,000 W77,000. ssartpia.or.kr 053-663-3300 Mamma Mia!: The Musical Busan Citizen’s Hall. Weekdays 7:30 pm, Sat 3 pm, 7:30 pm, 6th 2 pm, 13th 2 pm, 6:30 pm, Closed Mon. W40,000 - W120,000. citizenhall.busan.kr 051-630-5200 February 8th - 27th Finding Kim Jong-uk: The Musical A romantic love affair between a woman searching for her first love and the man she sends to find him. In Korean. Bongsan Art Center in Daegu. Weekdays 7:30 pm, Wed 4 pm, 7:30 pm, Sat 4 pm, 7 pm, Closed Mon. W45,000. bongsanart.or 053-661-3081 February 11th - 12th Sing-along Musical: Rainbow Fish A sing-along family musical based on Marcus Pfister’s famous book The Rainbow Fish. In Korean. Hyundai Arts Center in Ulsan. Fri 11 am, Sat 11 am, 2 pm, 5 pm, W12,000 - W18,000. hhiarts.co.kr 052-253-2100 February 17th - 18th La Pizza con Funghi: The Opera Think opera is too boring? The black comedy in this opera will break that stereotype. Sungsan Art Hall in Changwon. 7:30 pm. Adults W30,000 Students W20,000. sungsanart.or.kr 055-268-7900 February 18th - 19th Five Fools 3: English Musical The funny and heartwarming story of five circus performers. Featuring 10 Magazine movie reviewer Paul Matthews. MBC Lotte Art

Hall in Busan. Fri 11 am, Sat 11 am, 2 pm, W40,000. mbcarthall.com 051-760-1357 February 25th - 27th Radio Star: The Musical In Korean. Busan Citizen’s Hall. Fri 8 pm, Sat 3 pm, 7 pm, Sun 3 pm. W60,000 - W90,000. wsmi.co.kr 1600-1716 February 26th A Night of Classics See the “Daegu Theatre Troupe” page on Facebook for more details. daegutheatre@gmail.com February 26th - 27th The Three Musketeers: The Musical In Korean. Keimyung Art Center in Daegu. Sat 3 pm, 7 pm, Sun 2 pm, 6 pm. W44,000 - W110,000. kmuartcenter.kr 053-762-0000

Concerts Ongoing Korean Music and Dance Performances every Saturday at the National Center for the Korean Traditional Performing Arts in Busan (National Gugak Center in Busan). W6,000 - W8,000. ncktpab.go.kr 051811-0040 February 11th Daegu Symphony Orchestra Romantic Concert Enjoy romantic classical music with your date just before Valentine’s day. Daegu Culture and Arts Center. 7:30 pm. artcenter.daegu.go.kr 053-606-6114 February 12th 2 AM First Tour Concert: Saint O’clock BEXCO (Busan Exposition and Convention Center). 7 pm. W66,000 W99,000. bexco.co.kr 051-740-7320.

GYEONGSANG directory February 16th Korean Folk Song Night Korean folk songs about the spring (on its way, believe it or not). Hyundai Arts Center in Ulsan. 8 pm. hhiarts.co.kr 052-235-2117 February 25th Daegu Symphony Orchestra Recital Daegu Culture and Arts Center. 7:30 pm. Adults W10,000 - W15,000, Students W5,000 - W8,000. artcenter.daegu.go.kr 053-606-6114

Family & Community Through February 6th Pororo World in Busan Fourteen different areas for children to enjoy. There are toy lands, boating regions, performances and much more. Busan BEXCO 2-B. 10 am - 7 pm. W10,000 W13,000. pororoworld.com 1588-5716

gyeongsang PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance Busan Foundation for Int’l Activities bfia.or.kr 051-898-3740, 051-865-0133 Geoje Foreign Resident Association gfra.net 055-687-9332 Ulsan Global Center 052-229-2810 Ulsan Online ulsanonline.com

Café Francesco Italian Italian cuisine and good coffee. Near Rodeo Street. 053-252-9625 Dijon French Up-market French and Mediterranean cuisine. 053-422-2426 Hami Mami’s American One of Daegu’s best brunches. 50m from the US base. 8 am – 10 pm. 053-475-5242

Education

Hotels/Accommodations

Super Kids Land Kids go wild in a convention center converted into a play palace offering ball zones, slides, bouncers, and bumper carts. EXCO (Daegu Exhibition and Convention Center). 10 am - 6 pm. W12,000. exco2011.com 053-601-6888 Through February 27th Hello Winter Festival Indoor iceskating and natural soap making! GumiCo in Gumi. Take bus #70 or #170 and get off at GumiCo. 10am - 6 pm. W10,000 - W12,000. hellofestival.com 054-473-8864

2nd Floor Restaurant 3rd Floor Sports Lounge

Restaurants Busan Ganga Indian Opposite Haeundae Beach. ganga.co.kr 051-740-6670

053-423-4048 The Holy Grill Western Owned and operated by Canadians, the Grill provides expats with fantastic sandwiches, burgers, Tex-Mex and breakfast in a chilled-out environment that feels more like a lounge than a burger joint. Move up to the 3rd floor to catch major sporting events. 053-423-4048 Leo Chow Mexican A decent selection of burritos and tacos. 053-255-7111 Maya Indian Gyeongbuk University. 053-214-1916 Samarkland Russian Daegu station. 053-252-4021 Siji Taco Mexican Spicy tacos at competitive prices 053-791-5050 South St. Western Philly cheesesteaks and cold cuts in Suseong-gu. blog. naver.com/southst105 053-768-7867 Gumi Waegook Cook American Gumi’s original foreign-owned and operated restaurant, serving steaks, hamburgers,

Education & Conferences

Busan Aligote Wines, cheese platters, and excellent service. Haeundae. 6 pm – 3 am. aligote-busan.com 051-731-3322 Basement Open mic nights on Tuesdays and parties galore. 011-9294-2391 Fuzzy Navel Great drinks and great Mexican food as well. 011-1757-6349 The HQ Bar Kyungsung’s only foreignerowned bar with sports and dart games. busankart@yahoo.com Rock ‘n’ Roll House Western-style bar with darts and pool and a great view of Haeundae. 051-742-5553 Sosa Bar A cozy latin bar close to Pusan National University. 051-513-0070 Wolfhound The same classic food and drinks from the Seoul location, but right on Haeundae Beach. 051-746-7913 Daegu Ping Bar Great drinks, a pool table, and music upon request. Samdeok Catholic Church. 7 pm - 5 am. withhyk@hanmail.net 053-422-7708 Jinju Soundgarden Behind Gyeongsang National University. soundgarden. cyworld.com, zakkie@hanmail.net 055-753-2248, 010-6478-2248 (owner)

Religious Services Baekangro Church Busan 051-898-3740 Bujeon Church Busan 051-807-3331 Catholic Center Busan bccenter.or.kr 051-441-6403 Hongbeopsa Temple 051-508-3470 Busan busanbuddhism.com/hannarae Hosanna Church Busan hosanna21.com 051-209-0191 Podowon Church Busan 051-333-3736 Shipyungro Church Busan spr.or.kr 051-220-0200 Sooyeongno Church Busan 051-740-4500 Pusan University of Foreign Studies Busan 051-640-3445 Islamic Mosque Busan busanislam.or.kr 051-518-9991 Okpo Joonang Presbyterian Geoje Island 010-2586-7520, 010-3873-1652 Sumgim Presbyterian Church Geoje Island sumgim.org 017-577-3096

www.ibhotel.com

Through February 13th Science in Art: Secret of the Mona Lisa South Gyeongsang Province Culture and Arts Center in Jinju. 10 am - 6p m. Closed on Feb 3rd. W5,000. gncac.com 1544-6711 Through February 20th Flour! Exhibition for Children It’s not just for baking anymore, folks. At this exhibit, flour can be walked through, drawn with, kneaded, and more. Daegu Gyeongbuk Design Center. W15,000. dgdc.or.kr 1566-1360

Sports & Fitness Dozens of volleyball and basketball games are scheduled for this month. Volleyball games are listed on the website at kovo.co.kr (mostly Korean, though English schedules are also listed). Men’s basketball games are listed on kbl.or.kr (Korean only) and women’s games at wkbl.or.kr (also Korean only).

Gecko’s Western Perched on lovely Haeundae Beach at the Pale de CZ, you can get all of that authentic Western food you’re used to back home, and you’ll find bartenders who know how to mix a real margarita. 051-747-3069 Kebabistan Russian Uzbeki restaurant serving kebabs, soups and stews. Busan Station. 051-581-4050 Sunset Lounge American Drinks, Western food and fun delivered next to Haeundae. 051-742-2959 Daegu Berkeley Italian Hof Street. 053-421-8577 Buy the Book Western This bookstore and café is your source for free yoga, theater, and parties. Downtown Daegu. Open weekends. buythebookcafe@yahoo.com

Hotel Inter-Burgo DAEGU

Hotel Inter-Burgo EXCO

HAPPY NEW YEAR

Valentine Package

- Standard Room, Sauna, Breakfast

- Standard Room, Wine, Chocolate, Breakfast

2011. 2. 1 ~ 2. 6. From KRW 154,000

2011. 2. 12 ~ 2. 14. From KRW 145,000

RESERVATION : Jisu KIM(Manager) Inter-Burgo Hotels & Gyeongsan C.C. Seoul Office Tel : 02-425-5678, Fax : 02-413-0118 E-mail : suzikim@inter-burgo.com www.ibhotel.com

10 Magazine February 2011 | 67

GYEONGSANG

Through February 28th Korea Grand Sale First, it began in Seoul. Now the Grand Sale has become a nationwide festival. Nearly 13,000 stores, including malls, restaurants, hotels, banks and museums, will be participating in the festival. To learn more about hotel promotions and free shuttle bus trips, go to visitkoreayear. com. To begin your grand shopping spree, go to koreagrandsale.or.kr to download or print your coupon and find a list of specific discounts.

Live Music Venues Club Interplay Busan cafe.daum.net/ interplaycafe 051-517-4773 Club Heavy Daegu cafe.daum.net/ clubheavy96 010-2338-1340 Club Metal Boys Gyeongju cafe.daum.net/metalboys 011-9599-8370

Bars/Lounges/Pubs

Ayurveda Yoga Academy Certification course for would-be yoga teachers in Daegu. Sat 10 am – 7 pm. Call Yatren at 011-9547-5181 Yoga Classes Each 1st and 3rd Sunday from 12:30 – 1:30 pm. Buy the Book Cafe in Daegu. megan.deutsch@gmail. com 010-7794-1218 4 – 5 Star Hotels Busan Lotte Hotel 051-810-1000 Novotel Ambassador 051-743-1234 Seacloud 051-933-1000 Daegu Novotel Ambassador 053-664-1101 Hostels Busan Arpina 051-740-3228 Zen Backpackers 010-8722-1530

seafood, pastas, and German cuisine. waegookcook.com 054-444-3775

JEOLLA CALENDAR e di tor’ s pick

Pop Art and Political Art

Visitors to the Gwangju Museum of Art this month have two outstanding exhibitions to choose from. One focuses on Gwangju’s own painful struggle for democracy, while one introduces visitors to one of the most socially relevant artists of modern times.

Through February 27th

Pop Art Superstar: Keith Haring Simple colors, bold lines, and recurring images of babies, dogs, and winged figures made up the symbolic language that Keith Haring used to create his particularly joyful and jubilant variety of pop art. But behind the brightness and the hilarity are darker currents that speak of Keith’s struggle to bring attention to social ills of the time and his personal battle with AIDS. Learn more about the style and message of this visionary artist through the 150 works on display (exhibited last summer at SOMA in Seoul). For more about his art, see our review from last year at 10magazine.asia/keith-haring. Tue/Wed/Thu/Sun 10:30 am - 7 pm, Fri - Sat 10:30 am - 9 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W10,000, teens W8,000, children W6,000. Through March 6th

Democracy, Human Rights and Gwangju JEOLLA

Gwangju Uprising, Gwangju Massacre, or Gwangju Democratization Movement—you can nitpick over the name, but there’s no denying the significance of this tragic chapter in the Korean struggle to achieve representation and overcome tyranny. Plenty of ink has been poured over the events that transpired from May 18th – May 27th, 1980, but what is more often overlooked is artwork on the topic. In this exhibit, 80 works of art from the collection of Jeong-ung Ha provide viewers with a chance to reflect on the legacy of the movement. The three featured artists are Yeong-uk Song, Bulttong Park, and Seong-dam Hong. 9 am – 6 pm. Adults W500, students W300. The Gwangju Museum of Art can be reached by bus (information on Korean website) and is a 15-minute taxi ride from Gwangju Station. artmuse.gwangju.go.kr 062-613-7100

Getting There

68 | 10 Magazine February 2011

Wor ds by Dav i d Ca rruth

Art & Design Through February 6th New Year’s Special Exhibition Featuring work by Park Dae-sung, Kwon Byung-ryul, and Ha Ban-young, all veteran Jeolla artists. Jeonbuk Province Art Museum in Wanju-gun. Closed Mon. 10 am – 6 pm. Free. jbartmuse.go.kr 063-280-4343 Through February 13th Jae-woo Yun: Colors of the Soul The 100 pieces in this exhibit represent the unearthly and powerful colors of this Gwangju artist. Gwangju Museum of Art. 9 am - 6 pm. Adults W500, teens W300, children W200. artmuse.gwangju.go.kr 062-510-0149 Moving Pictures The interactive media of music, technology and images engage viewers and change the way in which we view art. Gwangju Museum of Art. 9 am - 6 pm. Adults W500, students W300. artmuse.gwangju.go.kr 062-510-0149 Sinmyonyun “Year of the Rabbit” Exhibition Did you know the rabbit lives on the moon? This and other Korean traditional attitudes toward the animal are explored in the pieces on display at the Jeonju National Museum. 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Monday. Free. jeonju.museum.go.kr 063-223-5651 Through February 22nd

Pulitzer Prize Photo Exhibition After a popular run in Seoul, the exhibit has moved to the Mokpo Culture and Art Center to give folks their chance to relive history. After you’ve seen the pictures, head to the comment corner just outside to tack up a note expressing your feelings. Adults W10,000, students W8,000, children W6,000. art.mokpo.go.kr 061-270-8484 Trick Art Korea Looking at paintings has never been this fun! Experience entertaining 3D versions of famous artwork. Kim Daejung Convention Center in Gwangju. kdjcenter.or.kr 062-611-2000 Through March 27th “Life and Style” Exhibition These pieces from the collection of the Gwangju Museum of Art help us rediscover beauty and style in our everyday lives. The thirty pieces in the exhibit represent the genres of craft, sculpture and new media. 9 am - 6 pm. Adults W500, students W300. artmuse.gwangju.go.kr 062-510-0149

Sun 2 & 6 pm. W55,000 - W88,000. ticket.interpark.com 061-650-3456 February 19th - 20th Heungbu and Nolbu: Children’s Play This Korean folk tale about the greedy older brother is presented as a play for the whole family. Gwangju Culture and Art Center. In Korean. Sat 11 am, 2 & 4 pm. Sun 1 & 3 pm. W15,000. art.gjcity.net 062-510-9251 Nunsense: The Musical It’s not your typical musical. The cast are dressed as nuns and walk into the audience to make the performance more interactive and fun. In Korean. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. Sat 3 pm & 7 pm, Sun 2 pm & 6 pm. W40,000. sori21.co.kr 063-270-8000 February 26th - 27th The Nutcracker: Children’s Musical Don’t let this winter end without watching this dream-like Christmas classic about a child’s imagination and inanimate objects coming to life. Originally a ballet scored by the world-renowned pianist Tchaikovsky, this story gets a modern face lift and is transformed into a familyfriendly musical. In Korean. Gwangju Culture & Art Center Main Hall. Wed 1 & 7 pm, Thurs 1 & 3 pm. W15,000 W25,000. art.gjcity.net 1688-3820

Concerts February 12th The Five Live: Jazz Super Concert Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 6 pm. sori21.co.kr 063-270-8000 February 12th - 13th Hyun-woo Choi’s Valentine’s Day Magic Concert: Hyun-woo in Wonderland Want to impress your Valentine’s date? Make sparks fly (quite literally). Magician Hyun-woo Choi’s show will go beyond your average pulling-a-rabbit-out-of-the-hat magic tricks. Chonbuk National University Cultural Center in Jeonju. Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 1 & 5 pm. W44,000 - W55,000. cnucc.chonbuk.ac.kr 1544-0674 February 15th Jeonju City Choir In-jae Kim will direct the Jeonju City Choir in the year’s first subscription concert. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 7:30 pm. W3,000 W5,000. sori21.co.kr 063-281-2114 February 16th Kyung-ju Nam’s “Musical Concert” All concerts are musical, I suppose, but this one will feature songs from Kyungju Nam’s career performing in musicals. Gwangju Culture and Art Center. 7:30 pm. art.gjcity.net 062-510-9251 February 26th - 27th

Theater & Dance February 9th The Nutcracker: Children’s Musical Watch a kids-friendly version of this winter classic. You and your children’s eyes will light up as these inanimate objects come to life for one magical night. Suncheon Culture and Art Center. 10:20 am, 11:20 am, 1:10 pm. scart.or.kr 010-3633-7857 February 12th - 13th Mother: The Musical Every day should be Mother’s Day—in appreciation to all our mothers out there. In Korean. Yeoju Citizen’s Hall. Sat 3 & 7pm.

The Shin Seung-Hun Show: My Way Shin Seung Hoon is known as the emperor of ballads with his tear-jerking, heartstrings-pulling, love-inducing music. Gwangju Culture and Art Center. Sat 7 pm, Sun 5 pm. W55,000 -W110,000. art.gjcity.net 062-510-9251

e di tor’ s pick

Family & Community Through February 6th 2010 Boseong Light Festival A large Christmas tree decorated with lights, a photo zone, a Love Galaxy Light Tunnel (whatever that is) and a street of lights in the green tea fields. If exploring the illuminated area isn’t enough, you can also take in the festival’s lighting ceremony, celebratory performance and fireworks. Boseong-gun. The lights go on at 5 pm. boseong.go.kr 061-852-7988 Through mid-February Geumho Family Land Ice Skating Rink Located in Gwangju. 10 am – 5 pm. Adults W6,000, teens W5,000, children W4,000. fl.kumho.co.kr 062-607-8000 Through February 27th Cocomong Green Playground Kim Daejung Convention Center in Gwangju. 10 am - 6 pm. Adults W11,000, children W13,000. kdjcenter.or.kr 062-611-2000 Through March 1st Flour Power: “Garuya, Garuya” Children stimulate all the senses with this exploration of the substance of flour. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 10 am - 5:30 pm. Closed Mon. W15,000. sori21.co.kr 063-270-8000

Education & Conferences Ongoing GIC Talks Take advantage of English lectures by professors, writers, and diplomats that promote communication and mutual understanding among Koreans and international residents. Topics include a wide range of subjects such as culture, history, politics, and art. Gwangju International Center. Sat 2:30 – 4 pm. Closed holidays. gic.or.kr 062-226-2733 Haenam Dinosaur Museum As the first such museum in the region, the Haenam Dinosaur Museum introduces visitors to the rich fossil legacy of Uhangri in Haenam-gun. 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, teens W2,000, children W1,000. uhangridinopia. haenam.go.kr 061-532-7225

February 27th Jeong Nam Jin Marathon 5k, 10k, half, and full to depart from the Jangheung Riverside Gymnasium. W10,000 - W30,000. Sign up by Feb 6th. jeongnamjinrun.net 061-864-1188 March 6th North Jeolla Mai Mountain Marathon 5k, 10k, half, 30k to depart from Jinan Stadium in Jinan-gun. W15,000 – W30,000. Sign up by Feb 20th. jbrace.kr 011-346-3957

Foreigner Assistance Gwangju International Center gwangjuic.or.kr 062-226-1050 Gwangju Blog gwangjublog.com Inside Jeonju insidejeonju.com The Jeonju Hub thejeonjuhub.com

Religious Services Antioch Presbyterian Church Jeonju andiok.kr 063-274-3228 Iri Joongang Church Iksan 0 63-851-4311 Musang Temple Muan-gun 042-841-6084

Museums Gochang Dolmen Museum 9 am – 5 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, teens W2,000, children W1,000. gcdolmen.go.kr 063-560-2576 Iksan Jewel Museum 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. jewelmuseum.go.kr 063-859-4641 Jeonju Oriental Medicine Cultural Center 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. hanbangcenter.com 063-232-2500 Jeonju Traditional Alcohol Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Free. urisul.net 063-287-6305 Jeonju Traditional Culture Center jt.or.kr 063-280-7045 Mokpo Natural Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. museum.mokpo.go.kr 061-274-3655

Hotels/Accommodations Gwangju Youth Hostel 062-943-4378 Ramada Plaza Gwangju ramadagwangju.com 062-717-7000

Radio TBS eFM Gwangju FM 98.7 US Armed Forces Network Gunsan AM 1440/FM 88.5 Gwangju FM 88.5

Restaurants/Supermarkets First Nepal Restaurant firstnepal.com 062-225-8771 Tequilaz Gwangju’s first Mexican cantina serves up your south-of-the-border favorites with magical margaritas and, of course, killer tequilas. tequilaz.com Underground Grocers Gwangju This foreigner-run food shop has those hardto-find cheeses, taco shells and other delicacies you crave. 062-232-2626

Live Music Venues Bars/Lounges/Pubs Art & Travel Cafe Jeonju Open mic nights every Wednesday from 9 pm. Facebook group, 011-9437-0208 Deepin Jeonju Popular expat bar with Texas Holdem on Sundays. 019-9646-1028 Led Zeppelin Art Space Jeonju Hosts underground bands both expat and Korean. cafe.daum.net/k250073 018-607-6321 Radio Star Jeonju Under the 7-11 in Junghwasan-dong. 011-9444-9609 Speakeasy Gwangju The fun never stops at this fantastic bar owned and operated by honest Irishman Derrek Hannon. 010-4713-3825 San Antonio Latin Bistro Suncheon Suncheon surprises with this Latinthemed restaurant and bar. Facebook group, pyroz@hotmail.com 061-724-2234

The Vagina Monologues

V-Day with a Difference in Jeonju

Tired of exchanging over-priced, heart-themed, chocolate-coated gifts? Expats down in Jeonju do things a bit differently on Valentine’s Day. February 12th

Family & Community

2011 marks the third year that a group of North Jeolla Province teachers, along with their Korean colleagues and friends, have taken part in the worldwide V-Day campaign. According to the official website (vday.org), V-Day is “a global activist movement to stop violence against women and girls.” During V-season between February and late April, communities all across the globe organise a series of events to raise awareness of the fight to end such violence and to raise funds to support grassroots organisations working to protect and empower women in the area. Since 2009, the Jeonju V-Day campaign has raised over W10 million for the Jeonbuk Women’s Association United, a Jeonju-based charity that helps local women (and the 5th place winner in 10 Magazine’s charity poll last month). In 2011, a wide variety of fundraising events have been planned. With a tapas party and a snow day at the Muju ski resort already behind them, the next big event will be Jeonju’s inaugural V-Day Masquerade Ball, tentatively slated for February 12th. Following in the tradition of Venice’s famous masquerades, this event will see members of the city’s Korean and foreign communities don their finest suits and ball gowns for a classy evening of food, music and dancing–identities concealed, of course, behind a traditional mask. A pre-ball maskmaking workshop will give partygoers a chance to come up with their own unique design. A prize will be awarded to the attendee with the most popular mask. V-Day events will continue throughout the next few months, including a concert featuring some of Korea’s top indie bands planned for March, and a benefit performance of the V-Day anthology A Memory, A Monologue, A Rant and A Prayer in April. For the full scoop, see the website. jeonjuvday.com.

Wor ds by A ndy Clay

10 Magazine February 2011 | 69

JEOLLA

February 25th - March 1st Buddhist Culture Exposition The place to be if you’re planning on getting a new set of prayer beads or would just like to learn about Buddhist organizations in Korea. Kim Daejung Convention Center in Gwangju. kdjcenter.or.kr 062-611-2000

JEOLLA PROVINCE

JEJU CALENDAR Art

DIS C OV ER Y Coast next to Songaksan

Through February 21st Photo Exhibition: Onju Citrus and Local Citrus Trees Seogwipo Citrus Museum, 9 am – 6 pm. Adults W1,500, teens W1,000, children free. citrusmuseum.com 064-767-3010 Through February 28th Traditional Food Culture of Jeju Island Learn more about the dietary culture of Jeju with this display of the tools and utensils used in preparing, cooking, storing, and transporting some of the island’s classic culinary options. Jeju Folklore and Natural History Museum. 8:30 am – 6:30 pm. Adults W1,100, children W500. museum.jeju.go.kr 064-710-7708

Performances Ongoing

JEJU ISLAND Religious Services Jeju Anglican/Episcopal Church Sinjeju 010-2500-6780

Classes Woodcarving and Engraving Workshop Jeju Museum of Art. Weekdays 10 – 11:30 am, 2 – 3:30 pm; weekends 10 – 11:30 am, 2 – 4 pm.

Hotels/Accommodations Hotel Lotte Jeju 5-Star 064-731-1000 Jeju Hiking Inn Hostel hikinginn.com 064-763-2380

Medical Services Dr. Chung’s Pediatric Clinic chung56@pednet.co.kr 064-748-1546 Hanna Women’s Clinic hannaobgy.com 064-711-7717 E-Pyeonhan Dental Clinic e-pretty.co.kr 064-758-2800

Museums

Sanbangsan

Buddha at Sanbangsan

Find Jeju’s Gems on Olle 10 The winter on Jeju is cold, windy and sometimes snowy, but that only accents the natural beauty of Olle 10.

JEJU ISLAND

Most hikers on Jeju’s Olle trails follow routes 6-9 along the Seogwipo coastline for the waterfalls and famous landmarks found there. But for one of the most interesting trails on the island, head past these favored routes to Olle 10. Covering 14 kilometers between Hwasun Beach and Moseulpo, route 10 offers access to two of Jeju’s prized peaks, Songaksan and Sanbangsan. Unlike Hallasan, these “mountains” are more like hills, but they’re definitely worth checking out. Songaksan, a tuff ring crater, offers panoramic views of Jeju, including nearby Marado and Gapado islands as well as Hallasan and Sanbangsan. As you approach the crater, you can also get a glimpse of Jeju’s history. Caves, once used by the Japanese to store weapons during Japan’s war with China as well as during World War II, can be found along the trail. Sanbangsan, which overlooks route 10 and requires a slight side trip, is home to Sanbanggulsa Grotto—home to one of the only cave temples in South Korea. To get to the trailhead, take a bus to Hwasun-ri from either the Jeju or Seogwipo city bus terminals. From the bus stop, walk 10 minutes toward the sea and look for the Olle signs. Allow five to six hours to hike the entire trail. For a shorter trek, start at Sagye-ri, which is just below Sanbangsan. First check out the cave temple, and then follow the Olle route signs to Songaksan. From there you can continue along the trail or take a taxi to the Moseulpo bus terminal near the trail’s end. www.jejuolle.org 064-739-0815 Wor ds an d shots by A ngel a Jacobus 70 | 10 Magazine February 2011

Nanta Nanta, the non-verbal performance that got started ten years ago, is a feast for the ears that turns ordinary kitchen pots and pans into a rhythm section. Jeju Media Center in Jeju City (064-727-7800). 90 min. Sun 8 pm, Tue – Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 pm, 8 pm. W40,000 - W50,000. nanta.i-pmc.co.kr 1544-1555 February 11th Inwha Woodwind Ensemble Regular Concert Jeju Culture and Art Center. 7 pm. Free. jejuculture.or.kr 010-9838-5438 Singers of Jeju Jeju Culture and Art Center. 7 pm. Free. jejuculture.or.kr 010-8521-4327

Jeju Peace Museum Recounts the tragedy of forced laborers who worked during WWII. peacemuseum.co.kr 064-772-2500 Halla Arboretum A collection of hundreds of trees and flowers native to the island. Jeju City. Free. sumokwon.jeju.go.kr 064-710-7575

Radio Arirang Radio Jeju City: FM 88.7 Seogwipo: FM 88.1

Restaurants Bagdad Cafe Indian. Delicious, authentic Indian food made from local ingredients in a gorgeous atmosphere. Near City Hall in Jeju City 064-757-8182 Dom Jang Japanese. Spectacular sushi in several locations all over the island. The best atmosphere is in Jungmun. 064-738-2550

February 28th Jeju Wind Orchestra Jeju Culture and Art Center. 7:30pm. Free. jejuculture.or.kr 010-8435-8004

Family & Community February 11th - 12th Jeju Ipchun Gut Nori Shamanistic Dance To prepare for the spring, Jeju’s public officials and shamans will gather to perform a shamanistic ritual and pray for an abundant harvest. There will be a variety of performances and hands-on programs for visitors to enjoy at Jeju-do City Hall Plaza, Gwandeokjeong Plaza, and other locations. jejusi.go.kr 064-728-2714 February 19th Jeju Open Mic: Haiku Death Battle Wield the power of syllables in this poetic duel. Contestants bring their own haikus to the event and face off with other hopeful wordsmiths at Haebyun Concert near the airport. 9 pm. W5,000 cover goes to support the Ugidongmul Animal Shelter in Ara-dong. “Jeju Open Mic” group on Facebook, frank_the_cowboy@ hotmail.com

Sport & Fitness March 27th Jeju Peace Marathon Full, half, 10k, 5k, to depart from Hallim Sports Complex at 9 am. Register by Feb 28th. marathon.jejumbc.com 064-748-9021

Island Gecko’s Western. A varied menu of terrific Western food, plus maybe the best cocktails and service on the island. The BBQ nights every weekend will blow you away with ribeye steak, sausages, and more for only W19,000. Jungmun. 064-739-0845 geckosterrace.com The Plate This modern bistro serves up a great American-style hamburger along with other Thai dishes. 064-746-8008 Zapata’s Mexican. Find it behind Burger King near City Hall in Jeju City. 064-722-3369

Bars/Lounges/Pubs Boris Brewery The brewer at the successful Modern Time Brewpub is opening up another shop with beer and Spanish sangria based on a 30-year-old recipe. 064-726-4141 Bull’s Darts Bar As the name suggests, they’ve got five dart boards, a variety of games, and even a women’s dart league. Near City Hall in Jeju City. 064-759-5559 Modern Time With locations at Grand Hotel Sageori and City Hall, this microbrewery provides beer lovers with some of the best homemade ales in Korea. 064-748-4180

NETWORKING CALENDAR E dited by so n g l e e

Friday, February 4th Fortress Wall of Bugaksan Tour Join the RASKB to see a UNESCO cultural heritage in the center of Seoul. The tour will start near Sukjeongmun, the North Fortress, and trek to the peak of Bugak Mountain. Departs at 10 am from Anguk Stn. (line 3, exit 2). Foreigners need a passport and Koreans need an ID card in order to hike. W20,000. Nonmembers W24,000. Sign up now. raskb.com Saturday, February 5th Seoraksan Waterpia Tour D o not mis s t his c han c e to c h e c k ou t magnificent Seorak Mountain in Gangwon Province. In addition to the beauty of this scenic area, participants will have the option of taking a dip at the local Cheoksan hot springs at the Seorak Waterpia, a hot spring resort featuring a spa, hot sauna, and a wave pool. W218,000. Non-members W238,000. Sign up now. 02-763-9483. raskb.com Tuesday, February 15th ANZA Global Cafe A friendly and infor mal get together of ANZA members and others from the expat community in Korea. Join ANZA for presentations as you catch up over a cup of coffee. Grand Hyatt Hotel. 10 am. Nonmembers W15,000. anzakorea.com SIWA Chocolate Making Class Ever dreamed of making your own chocolate? Don’t miss a chance to make such delightful desserts as rocher, pave, and your very own delicious Belgian chocolate! You’ll be working with the English-speaking instructor in the Kitchen studio on the second floor of Jubilee Chocolate Café in downtown Seoul. 11 am - 1 pm. Near Jonggak Stn. (line 1, exit 4). W50,000. Non-members W55,000. siwapage.com Wednesday, February 16th SIWA Coffee Morning Come enjoy coffee with the SIWA ladies. Grand Ambassador Hotel. 9:30 am. W14,000. Non-members W19,000. siwapage.com

Friday, February 18th – Sunday, February 20th ANZA Yongpyoung International Ski Festival ANZA Yongpyoung International Ski Festival ANZA is heading east for weekend skiing at Yong pyoung Resor t. All p ar ticip ants w ill b e g i v e n a 3 0 % d is c o u n t o n r o o m accommodations, ski rental equipment and lift tickets during the festival period. Contact ANZA for more information on becoming a part of their Australian and New Zealand team. awcseoul.org Saturday, February 19th AMCHAM Inauguration Ball At this fabulous party, everyone can dress their best and enjoy some fine company and entertainment. This inauguration ball has the special theme “New York City.” Check out the website for dress code and RSVP now for tables and seats. Grand Hyatt Seoul, Grand Ballroom. 6:30 pm. W275,000 for seats. amchamkorea.org Tuesday, February 22nd BASS Monthly Meeting Your buddies from BASS get together as usual at the Seoul Club. 10 am. W10,000. Non-members W14,000. britishseoul.com SIWA Chagall Exhibition Enjoy the romantic paintings of Marc Chagall, a Jewish artist born in Russia and one of the most distinguished artists of the 20th century. Chagall: Magician of Color offers an extensive selection of 160 works by Chagall, which have toured through thirty public art museums and private collections worldwide. There will be an English-speaking guide on hand to explain about Chagall’s art and life. 11:30 am. Seoul Museum of Art near City Hall Stn. (line 1, exit 1), W12,000. Nonmembers W15,000. siwapage.com Wednesday, February 23rd AWC Volunteer as English Teachers Have a chance to volunteer one afternoon as an English teacher for underprivileged c h il d r e n i n I n c h e o n. T h e r e w ill b e f u n activities and games that both you and the children will find entertaining. Meet at Hapjeong Stn. (lines 2 & 6, exit 2). 1:30 pm. RSVP required (myungshinlee@live.com) awcseoul.org

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Saturday, March 12th “Rockin’ Round the Clock” SIWA Charity Gala Grab your dancing socks and get ready for some 50s-themed music and entertainment at this year’s SIWA charity gala. Along with the dancing, guests will be treated to some classy cocktails and dinner. Proceeds from the night’s silent auction will go to charity. Those who don’t bring their poodle skir t should come dressed in business or cocktail attire. Grand Hilton Hotel. 6:30 pm. W90,000 per person, W850,000 for a table of ten. Seating is limited, so don’t wait to reserve your tickets! More info available on the SIWA site. siwapage.com, tickets@siwapage.com

Thursday, February 24th SIWA Noryrang jin Fish Market Tour Visit Noryrang jin Seafood Market in Seoul, the largest market for marine products. On the tour, you’ll learn about the different types of fish and marine products available. Lunch will consist of a variety of fresh raw fish picked out at the market, soup, side dishes, and rice. 10 am - 12:30 pm. Nor yrang jin Stn. (line 9, exit 2). W38,000. Non-members W45,000 (includes guided tour and lunch). siwapage.com Saturday, February 26th AWC MoMo Cafe Seoul Enjoy an elegant cocktail reception and formal dinner prepared by Chef Richard Oh at MoMo Cafe with the AWC ladies. 6 pm. MoMo Cafe at Courtyard by Marriot Times Square Mall in Yeongdeungpo. Contact stephaniemanni@ yahoo.com for more information. awcseoul.org AMCHAM ANZA AWC BASS RASKB SIWA

American Chamber of Commerce Australia and New Zealand Association of Korea American Women’s Club British Association of Seoul Royal Asiatic Society Korea Branch Seoul International Women’s Association

To list your event, contact David Carruth at calendar@10magazine.asia or 02-3447-1610 10 Magazine February 2011 | 71

NETWORKING CALENDAR

Thursday, February 17th SIWA Bikram Yoga Introduction Class Join the SIWA ladies at Bikram Yoga studio for a 90-minute session during which you can experience a fixed series of 26 Asana positions in a yoga room heated to 40°C. You’re sure to feel better (and slimmer!) af ter wards. Arrive at the studio 20 min.

before class (at 2:10 pm) and bring short pants, a sleeveless top, a bottle of water and shower items. 2:30 pm. Bikram Yoga Building near Shinnonhyun Stn. (line 9, exit 7). Free. Non-members W5,000. siwapage.com

Super Ajumma Wor ds by Sa m a n th a Di x-H i ll , I llust r ation by Patr ick Volz

hen I grow up, I want to be a Super Ajumma. According to my age, marital status, and ability to produce sturdy offspring I am already an ajumma. But this is not good enough for me; I want to be a Super Ajumma. Some say that all married women are ajummas and others will tell you that it’s a married woman with a child. My personal belief is that there are junior ajummas varying in age from 30 to 50, and then there is the Super Ajumma, and she is usually over 50. I heard this word for the first time when I arrived in Seoul a little over two years ago. Having had an overdose of new experiences, I paid little attention until I ventured into my local supermarket. It was here that I had my first encounter with the ajumma. I admit that I may have been lingering a tad too long in front of the tofu display trying to choose between firm or silky when suddenly my trolley was pushed away and my tofu view was blocked by an immaculately coiffed perm. It took me a while to come to my senses and recover my groceries. Lesson number one: beware of getting in the way of a Super Ajumma with a shopping trolley as your toes are of little importance to her. Lesson number two: always remain vigilant when standing in the checkout queue. Try to keep as close as possible to the person in front of you as Super Ajummas have been known to fill those gaps faster than a greyhound on race day. There are many more lessons but not enough space here to cover them all. You see, it’s an art, a supernatural power, and it’s what I long to possess.

I had another memorable encounter one evening when I was wearing, amongst other things, a long scarf, with both ends flowing rather elegantly over my shoulders and down my back. I should have known better. In the shuff le to get through a small crowd, I inadvertently pushed a petite Super Ajumma out of my way. My mistake; she grabbed both ends of my scarf and reined me in like a runaway horse. While holding my throat and gagging for air, I swiveled around and caught sight of the perpetrator staring into space with a smirk on her face. Where others might not take too kindly to being strangled, for me, this was just another lesson learned in my quest to become a Super Ajumma. But perhaps the best place to see the real power of the Super Ajumma is along the cycling paths of the Han River. In fact it was last summer when my fascination first started. Most mornings would find me cycling along the river enjoying the sunshine after a long cold winter. On one such morning I was trundling along when out of nowhere stepped an ajumma talking on her mobile phone. Despite my shouted warning, and subsequent face plant, she continued across my path without flinching, safely reaching the other side. Shaken, and I’m ashamed to admit, cursing quite loudly, I continued on my wobbly way. And this, I think, must be the true beauty of being a Super Ajumma. You live in your own insulated world. You see and hear nothing unless you actually choose to. Nobody annoys you and rules are for all the mortals who live beneath you. It must be fantastic—which is why I want it so badly.

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10 Magazine's new baby, The Itaewon World Map is here! Avoid confusion the next time you're in Itaewon and pick up our map outlining the many international eateries and services in Itaewon according to area and nationality of food. Finding just your taste has never been easier. To promote through 10 email us at marketing@10magazine.asia or call us at 02-3447-1610. Available at 10 Magazine advertisers, Itaewon tourist information centers, the Itaewon Global Village and anywhere else we can put them. 72 | 10 Magazine February 2011