10 Magazine January 2011

Art • Theater • Concerts • Film • Community • Fitness • Dine & Drink • Nightlife • TRAVEL

Korea awaits! • January 2011 VOL. 3 NO. 4

외국인의 한국생활 노하우

Eco-Tourism in Malaysia Printed using 100% soy ink.

241 Great Things to Do in Our Calendar!

Beyond your imagination...

Kuala Lumpur

Movie guide on p. 39

Megamind

january 2011 vol. 3 No. 4

41 Feeling Chatty?

New apps raise eyebrows in the too-much-information age.

42 A Memphis Belle in Bangbae

Southern ribs in Seoul? Well, it is South Korea.

44 Tokyo Jazz in Seoul

10 Tteok: Rice Cake

Good jazz within walking distance of COEX.

45 Let Out Your Inner Princess

So common, yet so misunderstood. Your chance to give this dish another chance.

12 The Tteokguk Challenge

Your chance to wear a wedding dress without the wedding.

46 Exhibitions of the Month

Julianne Taylor and Chef Richard Oh show how this Korean dish is made.

Chagall, Picasso, Hundertwasser, Da Vinci, and the art of Versailles!

14 Interview with Maureen O’Crowley Learn how Maureen is bringing the world to Seoul.

16 Stone Battles and the Lunar New Year Long before spectator sports, these horrific mock battles kept the Pyongyang citizens entertained.

18 Investing in Korea Unsure about the Dow Jones?

Take a spin on the KOSPI.

20 Korea’s Top 10 Castles You don’t have to go to London or the Loire Valley for some medieval magic.

24

Eco-Tou r ism i n M a l aysi a Beaches, jungles, mountains—sure, it’s beautiful, and we can do our part to keep it that way.

32 Ski Resorts

As the snow falls, the ski lifts rise at nine of Korea’s top ski resorts.

ances by Eric about perform Taylor For information ge, Sting and Bli J. ry Ma Clapton, r on p. 48.

Seoul calenda the e se ift, Sw

66 A Tale of Two Cafés

These Ulsan cafés prompt the perennial question: cat or dog?

70 Winter Hiking on Mt. Halla

The coldest season makes this climb more challenging— and rewarding.

SHINHAN BANK Seoul Global Center Exclusive Banking for Foreigners

“I first arrived in Korea in July 1996.

Banking was a huge frustration for me. I wasn’t far from just keeping my won under my mattress! Luckily, I finally found the Shinhan Bank Seoul Global Center. The friendly, knowledgeable staff there offer excellent English-speaking service. I feel like a VIP everytime. Visit Shinhan, you will not be disappointed.”

Dennis Muldowney, General Manager Crown Worldwide Korea

SHINHAN BANK Seoul Global Center sey

tt Hem

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All Kinds of Good News!

T

here’s a lot of big news to share with you this month. First of all, 10 Magazine is giving away nearly W30,000,000 in promotion and gift certificates to charities for 2011! Those of you who paid attention to our Reader’s 10 this past month and were watching our website (10magazine.asia) will know about how the charities were chosen—by our readers! Nine charities that you have selected will be getting a one-page advertisement in 10 Magazine, and the number one charity on our online poll will get three one-page advertisements and W5,000,000 in tickets, gift certificates and hotel stays for use in their fundraising efforts. It’s just one of the ways 10 Magazine is giving back to the community of readers.

So which charities are going to get the prizes? To find out more about the poll and the winners, flip over to page 9 for the full story.

The next big piece of news is that you’re going to be seeing 10 in a lot more places. That’s because we have just inked a deal with one of Korea’s largest book/magazine circulation companies. Myungmun Distribution will now be ensuring that you can find 10 Magazine in all your favorite bookstores: Bandi and Luni’s, Yeongpoong, Kyobo and others. And now that we’re “in the system,” you’ll be able to ask your local bookstore to supply you with 10 Magazine. And more importantly to the foreign business people, engineers, teachers, and others who are located in the Korea 시골 (countryside), you’ll be able to purchase the magazine online through all of Korea’s biggest online retailers: Yes 24,

10 M aga z i n e can now be bought throughout Korea at these major bookstores and online sellers.

Libro, Aladin and others. You may need some Korean skills or the help of a Korean friend to order, but we’ll be there!

There’s one more great piece of news to share with you. Our price has gone up!

That’s right, you now get everything happening all over Korea for only W4,500 an issue! Huh? You’re not happy about that one? We hope you’ll reconsider, because the fact is that a little more revenue for us means you get even better quality writing, more interesting articles, more spectacular photography and more events happening in Korea. (And hopefully more support for those charities you choose next time around in 2012!) Plus, there’s always the subscription option, which hasn’t changed. It’s still only W29,000 for 12 months of 10 delivered to your door. We just love our subscribers!

Keep an eye on 10 in 2011. We’re not slowing down just because our namesake year has ended. We’re only working harder to help you learn about all of the great events and destinations waiting for you to experience here. You’ll be seeing even more improvements in the coming months. 기대해 주세요. (That means, “Please expect it.” Doesn’t translate that well to English, so I went with the Korean.)

Steph en R ev er e M anag in g E ditor

A Shot of Korean by Stephen Revere

할말이 없어요. [Hal-mal-I eop-seo-yo] : I’m speechless. Unbelievable.

Sometimes you’re just in shock at what someone has done. Perhaps a client makes a request that you obviously could never grant. Or a person tells a very off-color joke in front of you. The grammar is complicated, but the phrase isn’t.

For those of you who want the grammar too, 할 is the future form of 하다 (to do). You add the ㄹ at the bottom of a verb to make it descriptive of the future. Then, as many of you will know, 말 means words, speech, language, etc. 없어요 is of course “to not have” something.

You can also add emphasis by putting 정말 (jeongmal - really) in front of it. 정말 할말이 없어요. [Jeong-mal hal-mal-i eop-seo-yo.] - I’m completely speechless.

Check out Survival Korean and Survival Korean: Basic Grammar Skills for more Korean lessons from 10’s Managing Editor, Stephen Revere.

4 | 10 Magazine January 2011

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nent home.

Aaron Allinson (p.18) is a long-time resident of Seoul. After completing his duties as deputy mayor of Haebangchon, this Western Canadian turned his interests to running local quiz nights, playing Sunday morning ice hockey and attempting to sample beers from every pub in the Itaewon area. He is often overheard passionately discussing the NHL, the KOSPI, scuba diving and which pub has the best wing night. He is currently preparing for his TOPIK test so that he can make Korea an even more permaAs the years in South Korea wear on, Matthew C. Crawford (p.20) finds himself enjoying the food choices more and more, while his wish list of places to travel to keeps growing. The reward for his cultural efforts, it seems, is the frequent c o m p l i m e n t , “ Yo u’r e almost Korean.” Due to safety concerns, Matthew is currently reconsidering a long-planned excursion to Baeknyeong Island.

Dylan Goldby (WelkinLight Photography) (p.24) is a photographer from a place where the air smells nice. His passion for the beauty of light and a love of showing the charm of the world to others through the photographic medium is what drives his pictures. His work can be seen at WelkinLight (welkinlight.com).

Minjung Lee was born and raised in South Korea but has always dreamed of the world. She’s majoring in English linguistics, interpretation and translation and will be graduating very soon.

She loves studying languages, reading novels, watching movies, listening to music, laughing, eating, and sleeping. Currently, she’s enjoying her exciting internship at 10 Magazine.

10 S ta f f S p ot l i g h t

Born in Auckland, New Zealand, Charles Russell (p.60) has spent his life traveling and exploring Asia and the South Pacific. In pursuit of his photography, Charles has traveled, hiked and climbed extensively in South Korea to capture the country’s natural beauty. Vivid colors, strong lines, and symmetry are elements that Charles uses to compose t r u ly memor able images. charlesrussellphotography.com

CEO Executive Editor Managing Editor Assistant Editor

Sang-tae Kim sangtaekim@10magazine.asia Jai-yoon Kim jaiyoonkim@10magazine.asia Stephen Revere sr@10magazine.asia David Carruth dc@10magazine.asia

General Manager

Kyoung-hee Lim kl@10magazine.asia

Art Director

Hugh Lee hlee@10magazine.asia Dylan Goldby dg@10magazine.asia

Photographer Marketing Inquiries Calendar Events Contribute Comments Subscriptions

marketing@10magazine.asia calendar@10magazine.asia contribute@10magazine.asia comments@10magazine.asia subscribe@10magazine.asia

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Tara TPS. Co., Ltd

Contributors Aaron Allinson, Lucy Beauclair, Michael Berry Adam Boothe, Rhys Brindle, Patrick Conway Matthew Crawford, Gregory Curley, Dylan Goldby Ian Henderson, Ciaran Hickey, Angela Jacobus Angela Lee, Grace Lee, Minjung Lee Song Lee, Sun-kyung Lee, Mike Luedke Stafford Lumsden, Paul Matthews, Rob McGovern Joe McPherson, Brian Miller, Charles Montgomery Ji-sun Moon, Robert Neff, Anna Orzel, Agatha Pereira Charles Russell, Stacey Siebritz, Evalyn Tabhan Julianne Taylor, Jason Teale, Patrick Volz Derek Winchester, Lisa Xing He’s an orphan, and he was raised in the forest. Is it Tarzan?

Mowgli? No, it’s Reg the outgoing orangutan who goes ape for a good banana. Cover story author and photographer Dylan Goldby managed to get a shot of Reg taking a break from swinging from tree to tree. For more Malaysian photography, see the article on p. 24.

Subscribe today for 45% off the cover price!

W29,000 for a year • W15,000 for 6 months subscribe@10magazine.asia, 02-3447-1610, www.10magazine.asia

Please Recycle This Magazine 10 Magazine January Vol. 3 No. 4

Patrick Volz (p.72) , from snow-ridden Syracuse, NY, is swimmingly midway through his 2nd year in Korea and has been drawing ever since he can remember. In other words, at least since last week. He lives and teaches in Goyang City, and, when the Goyang gets tough, strives to be an occasionally active ingredient in Seoul’s vibrant comedy and arts scene.

6 | 10 Magazine January 2011

등록번호: 용산 라 00184 (Registration: Yongsan Ra 00184) Address 서울시 용산구 이태원로 211 한남빌딩 1001호 #1001 Hannam Buildling 211 Itaewonro, Seoul 140-893 Phone 02-3447-1610 www.10magazine.asia 10 Magazine is published monthly by 10 Media Inc. © All Rights Reserved.

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- And everything in between!

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PARK HERE

Hannam-dong Community Center Parking Lot

LETTERS W e’r e Not A ll i n Seou l

I really love your email newsletter. It was recommended to me by a friend, and I’ve already recommended it to a friend of mine. My only gripe with it is that it covers mostly events in Seoul and Busan, and that it sometimes seems fixated on particular bars/restaurants. For instance, I’ve seen Roofers in Itaewon mentioned several times. I understand why this might happen - since Seoul and Busan are the centers of expat activity in Korea, and Roofers is pretty cool - but it would be cool if you also mentioned city festivals and outdoorsy things. With winter upon us, I’m going to want to know where the best places to go snowboarding are. And as far as festivals go, some can be pretty entertaining even in this cold weather - I live in Hwacheon, for instance, which has a festival every January that draws over a million people to gather on the town’s frozen river for trout fishing (with your bare hands!), cooking out, ice carving, and the like. (Actually, I hear that this year there’ll even be a group from China coming to make LED-lit ice castles you can walk through!) I would like to see more coverage of events like that, so I can have a more diverse experience in Korea. But otherwise, keep up the good work!

Tristan Reiniers, Hwacheon, Gangwon *

*

*

I really love the magazine and I’ve noticed that lately you’ve been including more

things to do outside of the Seoul area, which is great for me, as I live in Gyeongnam [Editor’s note: that’s the southern part of Gyeongsang Province in our Calendar.].

I’ve been in Korea long enough to get tired of going out to the bar every weekend and have seen all the really “famous” tourist attractions, so I rely on the mag to find new and interesting attractions and events.

It’s also really great to get a fun, colorful, ENGLISH magazine every month in my mailbox. I’d definitely recommend it to any expat in Korea.

Jolene McConnell,

Milyang, South Gyeongsang Great to hear from you Tristan and Jolene.

One of our first goals when we started 10 Magazine was to provide English speakers all over Korea with a quality English monthly that delivered practical articles and plenty of information on fun things to do. Today, most of our readership is still in Seoul but our readership outside of Seoul is growing quickly - thanks to readers like you spreading the word! We may focus on things happening in Seoul a lot, but that’s only because there’s a lot of great action happening here. And to be honest, without the Seoul readership, we could never even dream of putting out the caliber of magazine that we are making right now. So we’ll talk about Seoul quite a bit, but trust us - when there are great things happening in other areas, we’ll be focusing on those as well!

10

Korea by the Numbers 2017

1897

Dow Jones Industrial Average 10717

KOSPI 12463

13264 8776

1434

1379

79.4

1683 10428

11457

1124

The percentage by which the KOSPI* rose during last 2 years** * Korea Composite Stock Price Index ** From the end of 2008 to December 15th, 2010

2005 and 2010 stock prices of the top 3 Korean companies in the Fortune Global 500 Samsung Electronics

2005

Hyundai Motors

LG Electronics

W916,000

W182,500

W85,800

53%

89%

274%

W602,000

W96,500

W31,100

2006

2007

2008

2009

For an overview of getting started investing in Korea, see the article by Aaron Allinson on p. 18.

8 | 10 Magazine January 2011

Blog of the Month

Gusts of Popular Feeling

populargusts.blogspot.com Where the typical blog is rife with ranting, rambling, and pictures of the family dog, Matt VanVolkenburg’s prolific fiveyear project Gusts of Popular Feeling begins with a quote from 19th century travel writer Isabella Bird Bishop on Korea. Bishop remarked that “gusts of popular feeling…pass for public opinion” in Korea, and Matt’s blog largely exists to follow these gusts to their inevitable and often startling conclusions.

The blog began in 2005 with two essays on the Gwang ju Uprising of 1980, which draw upon the vivid (and horrifying) accounts of soldiers who were there. Historical articles like this are a good example of the rigorous research and wide-ranging interest of the author, who calls his blog “a look at Korean society, history, urban space, cyberspace, film, and current events, among other things.”

These “other things” include, most notably, frequent updates on the Korean media’s portrayal of English teachers.

Perhaps more interesting for the average reader are articles that gaze back on bygone days in Korea, using off line sources such as scanned photos from pa st Nat ional Geog r aph ic a r t icles or English-la ng u age a r t icles f rom the 1960s. Matt’s knack for locating hard-to-find source material and his meticulous arrangement of it result in a blog that is just as well-researched as most academic writing—and about twice as interesting.

“Like” us?

Show us some love on Facebook today!

2010

facebook.com/ 10magazine

THE READER'S 10

Which Charities Should Receive Almost W30,000,000 in Kind?

W

e really got into the Christmas spirit with our Reader’s 10 last month. We decided to give back to the community by offering 12 full pages of advertising for charities during 2011 along with W5,000,000 in kind. The charities from second through tenth place will each get a full page of advertising (W1,900,000 in value), while the first place charity will receive 3 months of advertising and W5,000,000 in tickets, gift certificates and hotel stays to use in fundraising. And we left the choice of charities up to you! You all got into the holiday spirit as well, as this Reader’s 10 was certainly one of our top vote getters ever.

10. PLUR volunteerforplur@gmail.com 9. Korea Women’s Hot Line eng.hotline.or.kr 8. Korean Kids and Orphanage Outreach Mission kkoom.org 7. V-Day Seoul vdayseoul@gmail.com 6. Animal Rescue Korea animalrescuekorea.org 5. Jeonbuk Women’s Association United jbwomen.or.kr 4. Justice for North Korea justice4nk.org 3. BEAN Seoul seoul.beanonline.org 2. House of Sharing houseofsharing.org 1. Global Overseas Adoptees’ Link goal.or.kr

G.O.A.’L. monthly meeting @KoRoot, April, 2008

And for our February 2011 Reader’s 10, we’ll be looking for your insights in relation to a future article. We’ve got the 10 team working on finding out some of the best food staples for us Westerners in Korea: hamburgers, pizza and wings. We’d like to invest your help in finding the very best of each, so we’re conducting a triple Reader’s 10 this month–let us know your favorite place for wings, hamburgers and pizza.

What restaurants serve the best hamburgers, wings and pizza in Korea?

As always, we’ll start our open thread for you to submit your nominations at the end of December, and then voting will take place from January 5th – 12th. The winners will be announced in our February issue, and then our experts will go out and try all of our reader recommendations in preparation for our article which will be out in the spring.

10 Magazine January 2011 | 9

Images provided by B i z e u n

A TASTE OF KOREA

떡

Tteok Rice Cake

W o r ds by C i a r a n H i c k e y, executive chef of the w seou l wa l ke r hi l l

Before there was bread in Korea, there was tteok, and this chewy but choice treat is still a major part of holidays and other important occasions.

T

o label tteok as merely a food is not really doing it justice. Even in a country that sticks to its traditions as Korea does, this is one of the most common symbols of celebration. Hardly a week will pass at work when someone is not passing it around for some reason or other, often after getting married. Used in everything from popular savory preparations like tteokbokki and tteokguk (see p.

12) to the flower-shaped fried rice cakes known as hwajeon, it would be a giant task to even begin to put on paper all the different kinds of tteok that fulfill these needs. Today, we’ll stick to highlighting the most common ones.

Let’s start by explaining what tteok is.

Quite simply, tteok refers to cakes of different shapes and sizes made from glutinous rice flour. These cakes range from large slabs to tiny concoctions. The cooking process typically involves shaping the rice flour and then steaming or boiling it.

However, there’s more than one way to skin a tteok, as I learned on my tour of the folk village in Namsan during Chuseok: it’s also beaten, pounded, and pan-fried.

Of the steamed tteok, my favorite is the songpyeon (송편) served at Chuseok. They are steamed over pine needles and have a distinctive half-

10

10 Magazine January 2011

moon shape to match the holiday (which takes place on the harvest moon). They are filled with various tasty ingredients including sesame seeds and of course red beans (pat 팥).

Another common variety is the rainbow-colored mujigae tteok (무지개떡). It is passed out at weddings or doljanchi (first birthday party 돌잔치) and was my first taste of rice cakes. That particular version didn’t win me over straight away, but I was subsequently converted after trying a few other varieties.

The pounded rice cakes, injeolmi (인 절미), are probably the most foreignerfriendly as they tend to be softer and offer a great contrast between the tteok and the dusted coating of sesame or red bean powder. The tteok is steamed first then pounded with a set of special utensils. I had a go at the pounding and it’s not easy, but the results are worth the effort.

The most artistic of the rice cakes are the flower pancakes, hwajeon (화전), which are often served at tea ceremonies. These are small little balls of rice dough that are flattened out and pan-fried. Just before they’re done cooking, f lower petals selected according to season are pressed into the top and lightly cooked.

As we kick off the New Year, you will be surrounded with plenty of chances to enjoy the staples of Korean culture, but keep in mind to have a bowl of tteokguk to mark the passing year and a bite of red tteok to keep the New Year Grinch at bay.

Clockwise: assorted rice cake, a cup of tea with hwajeon, mujigae tteok; bottom: songpyeon

Tteok of the Town Netizen’s Picks Bizeun 빚은

This chain of rice cake sellers calls itself “the premium riceteria,” and with a name like that it’s bound to be good. Take a peek inside to see how colorful tteok can be (hint: it’s not just white). They have locations all around Korea, and they even serve tea and desserts. Visit their website (Korean) to see if there is a Bizeun near you. bizeun.co.kr 02-6331-3445 Insadong Hap 인사동 합 Two Korean chefs trained abroad returned to Korea to star t this tteok café, which opened its doors just 2 months ago. Table space is limited, so if you want to enjoy your tteok and tea sitting down, you should call ahead for reservations. Located in Insadong at Gong Gallery. It’s open 8:30 am – 7 pm every day, though they get started a little late on Sunday mornings. Come in after 11 am for the full selection. 070-4209-0819 Tteok Café Jilsiru 떡카페 질시루

This one’s located appropriately enough on the 1st floor of the Institute of Traditional Korean Food near Changdeok Palace. Head here for items that are almost too pretty to eat, like the adorable pink maehwatteok (매 화떡) topped with a tiny edible green leaf (W1,000). If you’re curious to learn more about the food, enlightenment is just over head—on the the 2nd and 3rd floors of the same building in the Tteok Museum (tkmuseum.or.kr). There’s also an Insadong location to visit between sightseeing stops. jilsr.com 02-741-5411 Edited by David Carruth and Song Lee

IN THE KITCHEN

Th e T t eokgu k C h a llenge W o r ds by J u l i a n n e Tay l o r a nd shots by Dy l a n G o l d b y

Julianne Taylor and Chef Richard Oh take on this classic New Year’s dish.

U

pon entering the Courtyard by Marriott Times Square, you are greeted with sleek, contemporary furnishings with soft, elegant touches. This is no “Courtyard” by American standards. This hotel easily competes with those of the 5-star variety, and the view from the hotel’s casually chic MoMo restaurant is captivating.

Head Chef of MoMo Richard Oh serves up dishes that satisfy your soul. You remember—the kind of dishes from a simpler time when fresh ingredients were more important than presentation.

Chef Richard is Korean-born, and his passion for cooking was sparked as he watched his mother create wonderful meals at home.

Though educated at the Seoul National University of Technology, Richard honed his cooking skills at other large hotels in Seoul.

When the Courtyard by Marriott opened in 2009 in Times Square, he jumped at the chance to become head chef of MoMo Café.

The concept of MoMo Café is “Modern Living, Modern Eating,”—perfect for trendy Seoulites and Westerners who are attracted to the shopping and urban buzz surrounding the Times Square area in southwestern Seoul. So what exactly does “modern eating” mean? You’ll find delicious fish and chips, simple pastas, Australian beef, and ooey-gooey pizzas cooked in their wood-fired oven. MoMo’s “To Go” serves up quick sandwiches, soups, and other items for busy shoppers to replenish their energy on the run.

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10 Magazine January 2011

As I tie back my hair, put on the standard MoMo cooking jacket and beret, I prepare to perspire (Southern ladies “perspire”—we don’t sweat!) as Chef Richard and I set out to cook tteokguk (떡국), or rice cake soup. Chef Richard is teaching me how to make this authentic Korean New Year dish, one that is traditionally eaten on the morning of the lunar New Year, which takes place on February 3rd this year. Local custom says that one cannot become a year older without eating tteokguk on New Year’s Day. I had expected to toil away at the stove for several hours on this dish; however, I am pleasantly surprised that with a little prep work we knock it out in only 30 minutes.

While steeped in centuries of tradition, the Korean New Year is really about family, food, and fun. While it’s important to hang onto our home country traditions, many of us Westerners find ourselves wanting to incorporate Korean traditions into our own holiday celebrations. But when I think about how to embrace some of these customs, attempting to fully comprehend all of the traditions surrounding the Korean New Year makes my head spin. It’s easy to become overwhelmed by the subtle significance of all the foods that are served and their placement on the table.

That’s where tteokguk comes in. Preparing this authentic and simple soup is a great way to enjoy the traditions of Korea without getting too frazzled over the details.

Chef Richard tells me that the beef broth for this soup can be made a day ahead to reduce the preparation time on the morning of New Year’s Day. No time to spare? Call in an order for your tteokguk soup for the New Year and enjoy the dish prepared in Chef Richard’s own kitchen.

Chef Richard’s Tteokguk (Rice Cake Soup) • 4-6 oz (100-200g) beef brisket • 1 lb (500g) Korean rice cake (thinly sliced oval-shaped “cakes” made from rice) • 30g (2 stalks) leek • 2 eggs • 3 cloves garlic, minced • 1 pinch of salt • 2-4 tbsp sesame oil

• 1 sheet of seaweed (you can buy dried seaweed sheets at your local store) • 2-4 tbsp soy sauce

• 4-8 cups water (adjust depending on servings)

Making the Broth Boil beef brisket for 10min to pull the blood out of the meat.

Pour out water. Fill pot with fresh water and boil again for 50min-1hr. Remove beef and immediately prepare soup or refrigerate broth and beef to prepare soup 1-2 days later.

Preparing the Soup 1. Bring the beef stock to a boil and add rice cakes.

2. Shred beef with your hands. Pour soy sauce, garlic, and sesame oil over meat to marinate.

3. Separate the white and yolk from 1 egg. Fry separately in a thin layer. Remove from pan and fold the white and yolk several times. Slice into thin strips.

4. Roast a sheet of seaweed over the stovetop on both sides.

Slice into thin strips.

5. Slice the leek in thin oval strips.

6. Whisk 1 egg in a separate bowl. Pour the egg into the broth a little at a time. Do NOT stir right away or broth will turn milky.

After egg has cooked a bit in the broth, start stirring lightly.

7. Season to taste with soy sauce, sesame oil, and/or salt.

8. Serve hot in large bowls garnished with egg whites, egg yolks, seaweed, and leeks.

10 Magazine January 2011 | 13

Shot by dy l an gold by

Maureen O’Crowley 10 Qu estions

A

Senior Director of International Marketing at the Seoul Tourism Organization

lot can happen in 39 years. It’s true for Korea, and it’s also true for Maureen O’Crowley, who first lived in Seoul as a high school student and then pursued a career in the tourism industry. Now she’s back as the senior director of international marketing at the Seoul Tourism Organization, using her expertise in the field and her extensive knowledge of Korean culture to help the city market itself more effectively overseas.

10 Magazine had the privilege of hearing how Maureen’s experience has shaped her work with the STO. 1. When did you first come to Korea?

The first time I came to Seoul, I followed my father in June 1972. An Air Force officer, he served as the U.S. liaison to the Korean Ministry of National Defense. As he worked closely with Koreans on a regular basis, he encouraged me to get to know as much as I could about the culture and people of our new “home.”

Being the good daughter that I was, I gladly followed his advice and filled those two years with Korean culture. I spent many happy days exploring Seoul, making friends, learning Korean traditions, recipes and language. In short, I fell in love.

2. What brought you back a second time?

I think it was fate. In May 2008, shortly after the establishment of the Seoul Tourism Organization, I was recruited by CEO Mr. Samuel Koo to fill an executive position in the international marketing department. I didn’t think twice: I left balmy Los Angeles and followed my heart back to Seoul. Circumstances were much different the second time around, but thanks to good friends and helpful coworkers, I quickly settled into an exciting new lifestyle living and working in Seoul.

3. How long have you been working in the tourism industry?

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10 Magazine January 2011

35 years and counting. Maybe it’s due to my nomadic childhood, but it seems I was born to travel. I actually got my first taste of tourism during my high school days here in Korea when I served as a volunteer tour guide at the USO in Seoul. My professional career spans my first job in public relations for Korean Airlines, a 29-year run operating my own retail travel agency, two years as marketing manager for the LA branch of the Korea Tourism Organization and now, three years with the Seoul Tourism Organization.

4. How did you reach your current position at the Seoul Tourism Organization?

Upon arrival, I was transferred to the STO’s most active department, the convention bureau. I came at a very exciting time. Until recently, Seoul was relatively unknown in the international arena of meetings and conventions. Thanks to STO’s active representation of Seoul at international tradeshows, its reputation as a convention city has markedly improved. Here, presentations are my specialty; I am honored every time I showcase Seoul. The audience response is always rewarding, from those who tell me they will now consider Seoul for a future convention to Koreans beaming with pride as they see their city through my eyes.

5. Do you have any recommendations for someone who would

like to be in your line of business?

I would like to encourage more youth to consider a career in this field. It’s important, by the way, to understand the difference between two distinct but complementary industries. First is the tourism industry, dealing mostly with the leisure traveler, and the other is the much larger business of meetings, conventions and exhibitions. This second industry has a far-reaching ability not only to generate revenue for a destination but to promote the knowledge economy as well by bringing in intellectual leaders in advanced fields such as technology, medicine, education and pharmaceuticals.

6. What is it like to be a woman in a position of authority in Korea? Do you find it easy or challenging?

It’s a challenge in the best sense of the word. My job is stimulating, allowing me to combine my background in tourism and my knowledge of Korea in an emerging industry. With much of my experience directly related to Korea, my colleagues recognized I came here with a deep understanding of Seoul’s tourism challenges and potential and a genuine desire to make a difference. Another challenge for me is to gain greater professional recognition for this remarkable industry and have more Korean women join me in leading the way.

7. What are Seoul’s top tourist destinations?

The list is long and varied. Last autumn, my team at STO decided to jump on the bandwagon and have some fun with the G20 theme. We set out to create a short list – our very own “Seoul G20 – The Capital’s Greatest 20 Experiences.” As space is limited, I’ll just mention my two favorites. First is Namsan, a scenic mountain in the middle of it all offering a panoramic view of Seoul. Second is “Royal Seoul,” the five palaces that serve as a constant reminder of the city’s role as the capital of the Joseon Dynasty.

8. Have you brought over any big organizations to hold their conferences in Seoul recently?

2010 was a very successful year, but one shining moment definitely stands out for me. As a member of the Skål Club of Seoul and an official representative of the city, I was very proud of Seoul’s being selected to host the Skål International Congress in 2012. A professional organization of tourism leaders promoting global tourism and friendship, Skål is made up of 20,000 members from 85 nations and unites all branches of the tourism industry. You can just imagine how thrilled I am to welcome these members to Seoul!

9. Are there any changes you think Seoul should make to improve its international tourism marketing position?

Next month, STO celebrates its third anniversary. During that time, we have raised awareness of Seoul as a city with great potential for tourists and convention attendees alike. As a convention city, we now rank ninth globally. Early on, the government identified our industry as an economic driver. However, actions speak louder than words. In order to continue our upward momentum, we need consistency on all levels, from overall policy to financial support. City tourism stakeholders must unite and recognize the importance of speaking with one voice. Our message needs to be both clear and loud to be heard by many.

10. What are your plans for the future?

Last month, I earned my master’s degree in tourism administration from George Washington University. I am looking forward to putting those lessons to work here in Seoul with the goal of improving our convention ranking. I also find it very rewarding working with youth and hope to mentor our future tourism leaders at seminars and lectures. And though it was quite demanding to study while working full time, I am well rested after the holidays and, believe it or not, I want to go back to school. My next conquest? The Korean language. Wish me luck!

10 Magazine January 2011 | 15

history

Pyongyang, Stone Battles, and the Lunar New Year A hundred years ago, many Koreans spent their New Year appeasing evil spirits and throwing stones at each other.

I

n the early 1890s, Pyongyang was described as one of the vilest cities in Korea, filled with violent-tempered residents who opposed Westerners, especially Christians, in their city. It was also infamous for the destruction of the merchant vessel General Sherman in 1866.

One of the earliest missionaries to live in the city was Mattie Wilcox Noble, a five-foot-three, 102-pound woman, who accompanied her husband William Arthur Noble and ended up staying in the city for nearly four decades. It is through Mattie’s diary, peppered with missionary smugness and disdain for Korean beliefs, that we are able to glean what Pyongyang was like during the Lunar New Year in 1898.

The streets of Pyongyang were a kaleidoscope of colors. Children in bright-colored clothing played in the streets or accompanied their parents on holiday visits to their relatives. But not all of their bright clothing was for appearance – some articles were worn as good-luck charms. Even the sky was filled with color.

Boys and men flew colorful kites with strings lined with broken glass that battled with one another in the sky. One of Mattie’s fellow missionaries, Rosetta Hall, claimed that it was nearly impossible to walk down the streets without becoming entangled in kite strings. But kites were not the only things in the sky: [Over] many houses, suns & moons & shoes cut out of paper, [were] put up in sacrifice. Over each gateway was a new paper fetish in honor of the gateway evil spirit. Inside the fishermen’s homes [were] the sounds of the sorcerer’s drum and dancing while over their roofs were the fantastically made flags, all in the effort to gain the fish god’s favor for the coming year.

Fetishes were objects that were regarded as being the habitation of potent spirits or having magical abilities to help ward off malevolent spirits. While visiting the home of one Korean family Maggie observed some fourteen fetishRight: Engraving of a photograph of a stone battle outside of Seoul (1902) Next page: Postcard of Eulmildae (watch tower at the castle) and Hyeonmu-moon (gate) in Pyeongyang, circa 1910 (both built in 7th Century) Robert Neff Collection NODAJI

16 10 Magazine January 2011

es scattered throughout the house and dedicated to different spirits. These fetishes were presented with gifts of clothing and rice.

It was extremely important to keep the spirits happy – especially during the New Year. One hunchbacked girl confided in Mattie that she never left her yard for fear of being ridiculed by her neighbors. “The Koreans,” Mattie explained, “believe all misfortunes to be sent by evil spirits for wrong doing, so the people would laugh on seeing the child’s deformity as being sins brought to light & the parents’ and the child’s reproach by the evil spirits.”

But perhaps the most important event during the Lunar New Year was the seokjeon (stone fight). Mattie experienced her first stone fight in Seoul in March 1893. She described it as a battle between two groups of men armed with pieces of wood and stone “for the amusement of the people, like the old Romans’ gladiatorial combats.”

For the most part, she was correct. Two sides, often representing different villages or guilds, would equip themselves with polished stones, iron and wooden cudgels, armor of twisted straw, wooden shields, and leather caps for helms and meet outside the city to fight. In Pyongyang, it was held “in a valley just outside the Westgate in a natural amphitheater.”

The fights drew huge crowds of spectators, who lined the city walls and hillsides. “They make a strange sight dotting the hillsides, nearly all dressed in white or pale colors with here & there one dressed in red, green or purple. The children who are not in mourning dress in gay colors,” observed Mattie.

The battles lasted for hours if not days, and surged from one side of the field to the other, causing the spectators that had gotten too close to the action to flee for their lives or be trampled by the rush of the fleeing participants and their pursuers. The battle ended when one side was chased from the field of battle. The vic-

Words BY Robert Neff

tors were heroes and models for young boys to look up to, while the defeated sulked off, swearing revenge.

The injuries were horrendous: broken bones and noses, shattered teeth, and bruised bodies. Not surprisingly, there were often fatalities as well. In Pyeongyang, Mattie noted that “two or three men are killed in the fight each day.”

But it wasn’t only the adults who took part in these stone fights. Mattie recalled in Seoul passing “a group of boys imitating their elders and playing stone battle.” Small boys were encouraged to take part in battles of their own believing that it would make them strong, brave and fearless. Mothers brought their young sons, some as young as eight, and divided them into two teams of equal numbers, usually neighborhood against neighborhood. One Westerner in Seoul noted that large crowds of adults gathered to watch these battles, made wagers and encouraged their sons and yelled curses at the opposing side’s combatants.

These battles lasted for hours, filling the air with the children’s screams of pain and the cheers of excitement from the crowd.

They only ended after one side forced the other from the field.

The victors were given presents by their parents and treated as heroes, while the vanquished made their way home in humiliation. As with the adults, many of these youngsters suffered serious injuries.

During that New Year of 1898, Mattie had only one really bad experience. Just as she and her husband were entering the city gate after an evening walk, someone threw a huge stone at them.

Fortunately it missed.

For some Koreans, the Lunar New Year was a time for chasing away evil spirits and unwanted guests–including missionaries like Mattie Noble.

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Finances

Investing in Korea As Western markets tremble, there’s no better time than now to start investing in Korea.

Words by Aaron Allinson

hether you’ve just finished paying off your student loans back home or you’re already established in a career with an ample income, it’s never too soon to think about financial security. And the easiest way to secure that (short of winning the lottery) is through investing.

Investing here in Korea is very much the same as investing in any market. The variety of investment vehicles is actually quite staggering and the products being offered by different institutions have a lot of similarities. Language remains the largest barrier limiting what you can find here.

Why invest in Korea? The performance of the KOSPI (Korea Composite Stock Price Index) since the 2008 crash has been quite impressive. The KOSPI has regained all of its losses and is poised to set all-time highs in 2011. Also making your investments more valuable, the Korean won has steadily increased in value from a low of W1,250/$US in June to a current rate of about W1,130/$US.

Are you a trader or an investor? Are you in this for a quick buck or for the long haul?

Although it’s not usually as black-or-white as that, these do represent attitudes that determine how you should analyze your stocks.

Another answer to the question of why to invest in the country is that there is no capital gains tax in Korea, unlike Canada, the US, or England (where such taxes range from 15-25%). Commissions on trades are also very reasonable at around 0.5% of the transaction amount and lower on those done through the internet trading platform.

T h e S t o c k M a r k e t So you want to be the Gordon Gecko

of the KOSPI day traders? Well, put those fantasies on hold, or at least until you get yourself set up. The requirements are quite simple. Almost every major bank has a securities arm, but their English offerings are very limited. Daewoo Securities has stock trading services exclusively in English while Samsung Securities has a superior online trading platform but no single person dedicated to English services. There are a dozen other securities companies (known as jeunggweon 증권 in Korean) that offer services; however, you may need Korean help at the initial stages.

Depending on your level of involvement, you may want to have a broker contact you directly

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10 Magazine January 2011

and recommend stock picks for you. However, if you have the itch to trade online yourself, there are computer interfaces available for you to do this. This should include both a trading and charting platform. Securities companies also have their own daily reports and research that they do on each industry and specific stocks.

This information will give you a better feel for the market.

Are you a trader or an investor? Are you in this for a quick buck or for the long haul? Although it’s not usually as black-orwhite as that, these do represent attitudes that determine how you should analyze your stocks. A long-term view would require more fundamental analysis (balance sheets, financial statements, and so on) while a short-term investor (that is, a trader) would prefer to study stock charts to determine the trading pattern, otherwise known as technical analysis. Neither approach is perfect, but they do provide you with helpful guidelines for your research.

Getting set up is relatively simple. Securities companies require a valid ARC (Alien Registration Card) and a passport to get started. If you’re not a resident, then you will need to get an investment registration certificate from the Korean FSS (Financial Supervisory Service) through a local bank, securities firm, or law firm in order to open a trading account.

M u t ua l F u n d s Of course, stock trading is only one of many

services offered by securities companies. They also offer mutual funds, bond offerings or funds managed by the firm.

Asset management companies can offer the “hands-off ” approach that many investors prefer. With a monthly withdrawal from your bank account, you are well on your way to financial independence. Mirae Assets (miraeasset.com) is one of the most popular asset management firms in Korea. They offer a range of products including equity funds, bond funds, and money market funds (or a mixture of these). You can also choose the region or country you would like to focus your investments in. Although emerging market funds are currently more fashionable and offer the greatest potential upside, they are riskier than traditional markets. Diversification is essential for any type of fund investment, no matter where you are investing. Despite an English-friendly website, you may need some language support to get set up.

B a n k s There are literally hundreds of funds that can be pur-

chased through any of the major banks. If English service is not a priority, the sky is the limit. However, for English support, you may have to locate a “global center” or main branch (usually located in Euljiro or Jongno in downtown Seoul) where the staff are accustomed to dealing with foreigners.

There are a number of legal requirements to consider before

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getting started. For many banking products, an ARC is required.

You may still purchase these products without an ARC (i.e. with a passport) but you won’t get the same rate. Some banks require you to have an account with them before you purchase funds while others have their own special requirements, so always ask before you start buying any products.

Despite the subtle differences between investment vehicles, you have to answer the following questions. How much money do you want to start with? Can you budget an automatic monthly withdrawal from your bank account? If so, how much can you live without? Are you long-term or short-term? Do you want your cash back in a year or can you leave it in for five years or more?

Do you want something safe like a bond offering which could get you 5% per year, or are you willing to ride out the highs and lows of an individual stock, a fund or even the market itself?

F u r t h e r R e s e a r c h o n I n v e s t i n g The sea of finan-

cial information available can be overwhelming, while the 2-3 page business section of local dailies is merely a glimpse into the markets. Each of the securities companies has their own research department and this information is available to clients, regardless of whether you make a single trade. There are a number of online information sources where investors can start. Here are a few: Bloomberg.com and Reuters.com These two sites have comprehensive and up-to-date information on the global economy as well as Korea-specific financials and forecasts.

Investopedia.com This is a great website for beginners who want to learn about stock trading and other types of investing.

Koreabusinessnews.com The World News Network has dozens of links to Asian news, financial news and country specific sites, including Korea.

Samsung Economic Research Institute This valuable economic research webpage is updated daily and is useful for those interested in the market. seriworld.org Yahoo Finance One of the best sites for charting Korean stocks. They have all stocks listed but may lack some of the information that would be available through local financial intitutions. finance.yahoo.com

We are delighted to offer a variety of financial services to foreigners (resident and non-resident) including investment in Korean stocks.

Our services: r 0QFOJOH B $BTI Management Account EFQPTJU XJUIESBXBM domestic transfer) r 0QFOJOH B TUPDL USBEJOH account r $POTVMUJOH PO TUPDL investment %BFXPP 4FDVSJUJFT " TVCTJEJBSZ PG ,%# ,PSFBO %FWFMPQNFOU #BOL

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Korean language skills or a local acquaintance can expose you to even more investment opportunities. Despite the initial looks of horror and panic, staff will usually do all they can to have you as a client.

English-Friendly Securities Companies Once you’ve done your homework and have some ideas of how much you’re ready to invest, it’s time to pick up the phone (or fire up your browser). Get started with the list of foreigner-friendly options below.

Daewoo Securities bestez.com (click on “English�)

Call Alex Choi (02-568-4488, 010-3224-2302) for able assistance in English. The office is located near Yeoksam Stn. (line 2) Kookmin Bank kbstar.com (click on “English�)

Korea Investment and Securities eng.truefriend.com Korea Exchange Bank Global Centers keb.co.kr/main/en Samsung Securities english.samsungfn.com Shinhan Bank Global Center shinhan.com (click on “English�)

Contact Dan Hwang (02-773-3148 daegeu@shinhan.com).

The Global Center is located at the Seoul Finance Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5).

Mirae Asset Global Investments investments.miraeasset.com/en Woori Securities wooriwm.com/eng/index.jsp For a comprehensive listing of financial institutions, see the Financial Supervisory Services website at www.fnhubkorea.kr/fhk_eng/main. jsp. Look for the “quick links� bar on the right and click on “Financial Institutions in Korea.�

Daewoo Securities is obliged to explain about the characteristics and commissions of the financial products to its clients and the clients are urged to listen to the sales person carefully and be sure of the risk levels involved in the investment and make a responsible investment decision.

Financial products are not protected by the depositors’ protection law and may incur loss. Collective investment securities can generate profits or take losses and the responsibilities are borne by the clients. Please read the investment guideline before subscribing to the collective investment securities.

Shot by D e r e k Winc h este r

Feat u r e

Korea’s Top 10 Castles W o r ds by M a t t h e w C . C r a w f o r d

A

t the mention of “Korean castles,” images of pink-walled, crenellated love motels may spring to mind.

Towering beside expressways and bus stations, and with names like “Prince Hotel,” these are not the representative castles of South Korea.

While feudal castles still stand in Japan, what remain of Korea’s ancient defenses are city walls and the fortifications of craggy mountain citadels. One of the first stops for anyone interested in Korean architecture and history is Hwaseong Fortress (화성) in Suwon (see sidebar on p. 22). But for those who want to continue exploring, Korea contains hundreds of castle and fortress remains, ranging from the popular, wellrestored, and accessible, to the remote, overgrown, and crumbling.

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Baekje Stronghold

Gongju Fortress (공주 공산성), Constructed : CE 475 - 538, Restored : CE 1993, Location : Gongju, South Chungcheong Province Gongju Fortress was built after the capital of the Baekje kingdom was moved to Gongju. Encircling a hill along the Geum River, the fortress has been tastefully restored, and one can’t help but feel a deep historical pull while strolling the area.

Unlike many of Korea’s castle sites, the contents within the walls are of prime interest here. Highlights include Imnyugak Pavilion (임류각), as well as Manharu Pavilion (만하루) and the Lotus Pond (연지).

Audio guides are available in English. From the local bus terminal, catch #1 or #25. Buses to Gongju depart regularly from Seoul’s Express Bus Terminal (W8,600).

G o l d e n C i ta d e l

Castle: Geumseong Fortress (금성산성), before mid-13th century, Restored : CE 1990, Location : Damyang-gun, South Jeolla Province Translating roughly as “Golden Citadel,” Geumseong Fortress near Damyang-gun (담양군) is not only a complex, ingenious structure, but also makes for one of the most breathtaking, heart-pounding shortcourse hikes in South Korea.

Budget half a day to complete the full circuit. Like many of Korea’s mountain castles, Geumseong Fortress is protected by water, in this case the serpentine Damyang Lake, below the west section. Exercise caution, as there are no guardrails.

Damyang-gun (담양군) can be reached from Gwangju (광주) by bus (W2,200). Local bus #303 from Damyang bus station makes the trip to Geumseong Fortress (disembark at Damyang Resort Spa and Hotel).

Constructed :

West Shore

Ganghwa Fortress (강화외성), Constructed : CE 1234 Restored : CE 1976-2004, Location : Ganghwa Island in Incheon Ganghwa Fortress was constructed shortly after the Goryeo Dynasty capital was shifted to the island in 1232, in response to the Mongol invasions.

The south gate is an easy stroll from the bus station, and the west and east gates are also accessible, but a taxi may be needed to reach the north gate, up a steep, windy road.

From exit 1 of Seoul’s Shinchon Station (신촌역) catch bus #3000 (just past Hyundai Department Store) to Ganghwa Terminal.

East Shore

Munsu Fortress (문수산성), Constructed : CE 1694, Restored : CE 2007, Location : Gimpo in Gyeonggi Province Munsu Fortress, a U-shaped wall defending the waterway across from Ganghwa Island, was built in the Joseon era. The fortress played a part in Korea’s turbulent opening-up period as the site of a fierce but unsuccessful battle against French troops in 1866. Choose a clear day to hike up along the wall for a view of North Korea. Note that the section from the south gate to the ridge is currently closed.

Take bus #3000 (mentioned above) to Gimpo University.

Geumseong Fortress in Damyang-gun, South Jeolla Province

Matthew Crawford

10 Magazine January 2011 | 21

Feat u r e Pac k Yo u r J u n g l e M ac h e t e

Gomo Castle (고모산성), Constructed : CE 156, Restored : CE 1976 Location : Mungyeong in North Gyeongsang Province The remote Gomo Castle is located off the highway between Munyeong City (문경시) and Mungyeong Town (문경읍).

The south gate and its adjoining walls have been redone, while the west gate remains disheveled, offering a nice contrast. Beyond these gates some bushwhacking is required. With a bit of sweat though, you’ll find a few turrets and foxholes, and you may even scare up a few pheasants.

The total course takes around 1.5 hours. To get there from Mungyeong City, exit the bus station and turn right. From here, board any bus bound to Mungyeong Town from the bus stop across the intersection.

Slick Reconstruction

Geumjeong Mountain Fortress (금정산성) Constructed : CE 1703, Restored : CE 1972-89, Location : Busan At 17.3 km in circumference, Busan’s Geumjeong Mountain Fortress is one of the longest in Korea. The walled fortress was seriously reconstructed in 1703, disassembled during the Japanese occupation, and reconstructed once again from 1972-89. Though the satisfaction of seeing ancient rockwork may be lacking here, there are memorable watchtowers and tremendous views.

To take the cable car up to the south gate, proceed from exit 1 of Oncheonjang Station (온천장).

Is l e o f P i n e s

Jukju Castle (죽주산성), Constructed : during the Three Kingdoms Period (BCE 57- CE 668), Restored : partially, Location : Anseong in Gyeonggi Province The site of a brave defense by General Song Mun-ju against the Mongols in 1232, and by General Pyeon I-chang against the Japanese in 1592, Jukju Castle near Anseong (안성시) has now been invaded and captured by red ivy and dragon flies.

Rebuilt sections have been carefully interspersed with older sections. (To explore these older sections, scout about the north end.) The old growth pine forest within the walls enriches the sense of solitude and desolation of this castle.

Up to two hours are needed to walk the inner circuit. Anseong is one-

hour from Seoul’s Express Bus Terminal (W5,400). From the bus shelter opposite Anseong Bus Station (안성종합터미널), catch #370 or #370-1 to Juksan (죽산); next, find a taxi driver or catch village bus #10-1 bound for Baek Hermitage (백암).

Castle for Couples

Jinju Castle (진주성), Constructed : CE 1607, Restored : CE 1969, Location : Jinju in South Gyeongsang Province Built along the meandering Nam River, Jinju Castle has a park-like atmosphere.

Jinju Museum is located on the castle grounds, as well as Hoguk Temple (호국사) and numerous pavilions, shrines to the thousands who died here during the Imjin War, memorials to heroic defenders, antique Korean “guns,” and a shrine to the patriotic kisaeng, Non Gae. Heavy reconstruction has taken place (mostly during the sixties). While the castle is undeniably pleasant, it’s certainly the most revamped of all Korean fortresses.

Bus #16 runs from the Jinju Express Bus Terminal to within walking distance of the main entrance (disembark once you’ve crossed the river).

C o u n t ry R e t r e at

Three-Year Fortress (삼년산성), Constructed : CE 470 Restored : partially, Location : Boeun-gun in North Chungcheong Province The construction of Three-Year Fortress in Boeun-gun (보은군), then at the edge of the Silla Kingdom, began in 470, and took only three years to complete. Some sections of the wall are crumbling, some fully engulfed by vegetation, and others miraculously intact, while the west gate stretch has been grandly restored.

Boeun-gun is deep in the the Chungcheong countryside, though there are buses (via Chungju) from Seoul’s East Bus Terminal. Upon arrival, hitch a taxi for W3,500 or simply walk toward the gleaming white wall on the hill.

L a s t C a p i ta l

Seongheung Fortress (성흥산성), Constructed : CE 501, Restored : partially, Location : Buyeo in South Chungcheong Province Most visitors to Buyeo-gun (the final capital of the Baekje Kingdom) tour the heavily reconstructed Buso Fortress (부소산성) near the city

T h e G r e at Wa l l o f Ko r e a Words by David Carruth, shot by Derek Winchester

Hwaseong Fortress (화성) Constructed : CE 1796, Restored : Beginning in the 70s Location : Suwon, Gyeonggi Province King Jeongjo may have failed to relocate the Korean capital to Suwon, but he did succeed in building Hwaseong, an impressive fortress and major tourist site that was selected as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site in 1997. Built in honor of Jeongjo’s murdered father, Hwaseong Castle took 700,000 man-hours to build, stretches nearly six kilometers, and filled ten volumes detailing its construction.

These records came in handy during repairs in the 70s, which

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10 Magazine January 2011

Hwaseong Fortress: W1,000; Hwaseong Haenggung: W1,500; Archery: 5 arrows for W1,000 ehs.suwon.ne.kr, 031-251-4435, 031-1330

restored the fortress, severely damaged during the Korean War, to its original glory. From Hwaseong Haengung, the “detached palace” that served as King Jeongjo’s Suwon residence, to a myriad of architectural features including signal beacons and secret gates, the castle is a treasure trove for history and building buffs. Hikers will enjoy the vigorous walk along the wall, which winds up and down hills and through the middle of the city. There’s even an archery range and a shuttle masquerading as a dragon that can whisk you off to different points of interest.

Getting there: Travel an hour south of Seoul on subway line 1 to Suwon Stn., come out exit 5 or 6 and cross the street. From here, it’s possible to walk the 1.5km to the impressive gate Paldalmun, though almost any bus will take you right there (including #7, 7-2, 11, 13 and many more).

Matthew Crawford

1

2 3

4

1. Geumjeong Mountain Fortress, 2 The white wall of Boeun-gun's Three-Year Fortress rises from the forest. 3 A pine forest encroaches on the ruins of ancient Jukju Castle. 4 Jinju Castle

center to see Nakhwaam (낙화암), the so-called “suicide cliff.” This is where the women of Baekje jumped to their death when the nation fell to the army of Shilla.

Farther afield from the city is the evocative Seongheung Fortress, perched on a hilltop and offering stirring views of the Geum River landscape. Reconstructed sections of the walls stretch from the giant zelkova tree at the south gate, but beyond these, little remains of the original wall.

To reach Seongheung Fortress, catch the village bus (W1,500) to Imcheon from the bus stand across from Buyeo Intercity Bus Terminal.

T h e C i t y Wa l l s o f S e o u l

As a long-time capital city, Seoul is full of remnants of the walls that once encircled it.

To reach Namsan’s (남산) ramparts, which continue all the way up to the N Seoul Tower, start from exit 6 of Dongguk University Stn. (line 3) and walk just past the National Theater. City bus #420 stops right next to the National Theater.

There are numerous rebuilt gates along the winding Bukhansan Fortress (북한산성, CE 132). Take city bus #110A, #143, or #162 to the last stop (정릉 버스 종점) and hike up to the ridge. Portions of the fortress can also be found on Inwangsan (인왕산) and Bugaksan (북악산).

A trip to Namhan Fortress (남한산성, CE 673) remains one of the most rewarding excursions in the Seoul area. Start from the eponymous station (Namhansanseong Stn., line 8, ex. 1 or 4), or take bus #30, #30-1, or #333 directly to the entrance.

A rebuilt stretch of Seoul’s former defensive walls skirts Naksan Park (낙산공원), behind the Daehangno district. Turn left from Hyehwa Stn. (line 4, ex. 2) and proceed up the hill.

Achasan Fortress (아차산성) can easily be reached from Acha Mountain Stn. (line 5) or Gwangnaru Stn. (line 5), both from exits 1 or 2. * “San” means “mountain” in Korean.

10 Magazine January 2011 | 23

How Traveling the Globe Can Save the Planet

Eco-Tourism

in Malaysia

Words and shots by Dylan Goldby

26 10 Magazine January 2011

In Malaysia’s Sabah, located on the north coast of Borneo, travelers get to experience the grandeur of nature and then take part in preserving it.

O

ur mid-afternoon direct flight from Seoul lands in Kot a K i nabalu , the capital of Sabah state in Malaysia, and our tour group is whisked through immigration. Upon arrival, we’re greeted with the sight of Mount Kinabalu, Southeast Asia’s second-highest peak. At 4095 meters, the mountain towers over the undulating foothills and beautiful tropical skies that surround it. With this view to keep us company, we’re shuttled to our hotel to be treated to regional delights including satay (skewered meat) with peanut sauce and mee goreng (fried noodles).

Later, we watch the sun go down over the South China Sea to the soothing sounds of the waves lapping at the beach and the gongs of the kulintangan in the background. Thoughts of deep sea dives, the fabled orangutan swinging through the forest, pigmy elephants, and countless other wild creatures filling misty groves fade as we drift into slumber. In the morning, we are in for an experience that will change the way we think about traveling.

“Selamat datang, or welcome to Sabah, Malaysia.

From the top of the mountain to the deep sea, we have it all,” our guide passionately intones as we begin our journey. He is not far from the truth. Nestled on the northeast tip of the tropical paradise that is Borneo, covered in 130-million-years-old lush rainforests, surrounded on its coastline by beautiful tropical waters and dominated by Mount Kinabalu, Sabah is the perfect place to experience it all. But that beauty cannot last long without preservation.

Our boat takes us from Sutera Harbor to Gaya Island just offshore from Kota Kinabalu, where we meet the staff of MERC, the Marine Ecology Research Center.

MERC is a team of marine biologists dedicated to saving giant clams, propagating coral reefs, and educating visitors. School children who are brought in can learn why we need to keep the environment clean and healthy, see the wonders beneath the sea, and plant their own coral fragments to help with reef regeneration.

Left: Sutera Harbour Resort 10 Magazine January 2011 | 27

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MERC staff also take personal responsibility for collecting rubbish from the sea, an especially challenging task during the monsoon when the rains wash everything from the mainland straight into the ocean.

On our visit to MERC, we start by walking through the viewing area where we can see the seven varieties of giant clams being regenerated in Sabah. Then we move outside to the touch tank where the real fun begins. First we take a starfish and feel its slow and slippery movements, and then we pick up and hold the furry Mr. Carpet, the 30-centimeter-long resident sea cucumber. Finally, we do our bit to help regenerate the reefs around Sabah by planting fragments of coral.

The tour introduces us to another approach to preserving marine life, which is sponsored by businesses such as Gayana Eco Resort. This method aims to provide a sustainable source of seafood by raising fish in pens and selling them to restaurants to prevent overfishing of ocean stock. On our visit, we are encouraged to ask where our fish are coming from, and to only eat at restaurants where “farmed” fish are served. Both Gayana Eco Resort and Bunga Raya Island Resort and Spa, the other five-star resort on Gaya Island, are under the same management, and these resorts fund the research center.

This emphasis on low-impact tourism and environmental regeneration is not only funded and driven by the private sector, however. The Sabah state government is pouring a huge amount of resources into protecting the environment and promoting eco-tourism.

Harsh penalties are now enforced for illegal logging, and according to Datuk Seri Tengku Zainal Adlin, chairman of the Sabah Tourism Board, 52% of Sabah state is now under eco-management. NGOs like WWF (World Wide Fund for Nature) also play a large role in protecting the present and future of the region’s beautiful natural treasures.

After this interactive and informative tour and a chance to dine on some of the protected seafood on offer, such as the juicy sea cucumber and succulent giant grouper, we move on to meet Borneo’s “wild 1 The pier at Bunga Raya 2 Giant clams in the MERC 3 Reg the orangutan 10 Magazine January 2011 | 29

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5 th a i l a n d

ph i l i pp i nes

v i etn a m

South China Sea

Kuala Lumpur

M a l a ys i a

Kudat Sabah

Sarawak

i n d o nes i a

3 4 1 Playing the kulintangan 2 Street satay stand 3-4 Sunday market 5 Making a fire at the Mari Mari Cultural Village

30 10 Magazine January 2011

man of the forest,” the orangutan. For many, the animal is the icon of Borneo. But it is also one of Malaysia’s most endangered species, and preservation efforts in Sabah are ongoing. We head to the sanctuary at Shangri-La’s Rasa Ria resort to see the work being done with the animals. Though we only stay for a short while, those with more time can enjoy a longer stay while participating in the Orangutan Rehabilitation Program at Sepilok near Sandakan on the east coast of Sabah.

The most exciting moment at the sanctuary is feeding time for the orphaned baby orangutans. The moment young orangutan Reg appears, he steals the hearts of his audience. He swings from tree to tree, showing off his agility for the crowd below and taunting us with his recently acquired bananas. His caretakers assure us he is in no way trained; he is just young, and a natural attention-lover.

A full day of learning about Sabah and exploring its natural beauty comes to a close with a traditional fullbody massage. Awestruck yet relaxed, we are already lost in the experience of Sabah. But even better than experiencing this kind of natural wonder is knowing that our visit has helped preserve it for generations to come.

For brochures and more details about Sabah, contact the Malaysian Tourism Board in Seoul. 02-779-4422

Travel Tips Place Name: Sabah, Malaysian Borneo Area: Climate: Population: Language:

74,500 km 2 (compare with South Korea: 99,828 km 2) Tropical (21-32 degrees Celsius all year round) Approximately 3.2 million Bahasa Malaysia (English is widespread) Sister city in South Korea: Yongin in Gyeonggi Province How to get there Malaysia Airlines recently expanded their services

and now offers three direct flights from Seoul to Kota Kinabalu weekly, with more connecting flights to other parts of Malaysia.

Getting Around Rental cars are available from approximately RM150

per day, and motorcycles from as little as RM45 per day. Taxis don’t use their meters most of the time, and prefer to charge about RM10 for short journeys. However, they can be chartered for approximately RM40 per hour, or RM200-250 per day.

Currency The local currency is Ringgit Malaysia or RM. For help in cal-

culating your travel expenses, remember that RM3 is roughly US $1 or W1,000. Travellers from Korea should take US dollars or another widespread currency, as the won is only starting to get a foothold in local exchange offices and may not be easy to exchange.

Where to Stay Kota Kinabalu offers a full spectrum of places to stay.

From the RM15 backpacker lodges and budget hotels of Gaya Street to world-class five-star resorts, there is a place for everyone. Read on for contact info on the resorts mentioned in the article: Shangri La’s Rasa Ria Resort shangri-la.com (60 88) 792 888 Gayana Eco Resort: gayana-eco-resort.com, info@gayana-eco-resort.com Diving Full three-day open-water diving courses (both SSI and PADI)

are available for between RM500 and RM800. Challenging sites like the world-famous Palau Sipadan are also available for master divers.

Mt. Kinabalu The awesome spectacle that is Mt. Kinabalu cannot be

climbed freely. As it is a World Heritage Site, limited numbers are allowed to trek each day, and park and guide fees apply. Although world record holder Marco De Gasperi managed the 17 km round-trip in a little over two-and-a-half hours, for us mere mortals, a two-to-three-day hike is recommended. All park fees, accommodation, and transfers can be organised through various tour companies in Kota Kinabalu.

Cultural Experience At the Mari Mari Cultural Village, experience

the customs and traditions of the Bajau, Lundayeh, Murut, Rungus and Dusun peoples, including their authentic longhouses. At this site, W h at ’ s O n i n you can also participate in bamboo S a b a h i n 2 0 11 cooking, play traditional trampoline April 22nd – 24th games, and even use a blowpipe!

Sabah Adventure Challenge Group bookings are essential.

sabahadventurechallenge.com

April 30th - May 1st Sabah Fest sabahtourism.com May 1st Borneo International Marathon borneomarathon.com June 17th – 18th KK Jazz Festival kkjazzfest.com June 18th - 19th Sabah Dragon Boat Race sabahtourism.com July 16th – 17th Kudat Music Fest sabahtourism.com July 22nd - 24th Sabah International Folklore Festival sabah.gov.my/lks August 15th Sandakan Memorial Day October 14th - 16th Borneo Bird Festival sabahtourism.com October 22nd - 23rd Mount Kinabalu Climbathon sabahtourism.com

Markets Tamu, or weekly markets,

are held every day except Monday, with Wednesdays being the most popular amongst the locals. At this bustling, lively market, locals bargain for foods, medicines, trinkets, pets, and household goods. Bargaining is a big part of the tamu. Don’t like the price? Ask for a better one, find some fault in the product by examining it and pointing it out to the seller, compare and barter, and eventually you’ll get the price you’re after.

Tours Borneo Eco Tours and their non-profit foundation Borneo Ecotourism Solutions & Technologies Society are working hard not only to protect the environment and peoples of Sabah, but also to actively aid both through providing water supplies, establishing medical camps, and planting trees. On request, travelers are able to organise and participate in such programs. Local guides can also be hired through the Sabah Tourism Board.

10 Magazine January 2011 | 31

Phoe nix Park

Why flee from the cold when you can frolic in it? Korea may not be that large, but it has its share of mountains, snow, and consequently ski resorts. Top-quality facilities and slopes of varying levels of difficulty make it easy to enjoy winter sports whether you’re an Olympic-class athlete or are still working on your technique.

Edited by Minjung Lee and David Carruth Jisan Forest Resort Jisan Forest Resort is the closest ski resort from Seoul. Want to enjoy skiing after work? The new midnight pass from 9 pm to 4 am (W62,000) is perfect for those who want to go skiing after leaving the office. A free shuttle bus will be traveling around the Seoul metropolitan area for customers. You don’t have to bring your equipment.

New rental equipment will be in stock. Icheon in Gyeonggi Province. jisanresort.co.kr 031-644-1200

32 10 Magazine January 2011

Yongpyong Ski Resort Located at 700 meters above sea level with annual snowfall of 250 cm, Yongpyong Ski Resort is a beautiful site offering a wide array of winter sports. There are 31 ski slopes including the rainbow slope, 4.7km long gondolas and 15 lifts, and the biggest ski house (Dragon Plaza) in Korea.

This is also the resort that successfully held international ski games such as the World Cup ski events and the Asian Winter Games. Shuttle buses can be found in Ilsan, Bundang, Sanbon and Pyongchon. Pyeongchang in Gangwon Province. yongpyong.co.kr 033-335-5757

Be ars Town Bears Town is a leisure complex located in the suburbs of Seoul.

The ski slopes in the resort have been certified by the International Ski Federation (FIS). Worried about the cost? Check out the free shuttle buses and big discounts. Facilities such as cafeteria and restaurants have been newly renovated and sidewalks extended along the main slope so people can enjoy the snowscape. The resort will also hold plenty of winter events for you to enjoy. Pocheon in Gyeonggi Province. bearstown.com 031-540-5000

Located 1,050m on the skirts of Taegi Mountain, Phoenix Park has the low temperatures and ample snow fall that a good ski resort needs. Twelve of its twenty-two ski slopes meet international standards, including Aerial and Mogul, which have been approved for international competitions.

The resort adds or alters ski slopes each year to satisfy visitors. This year’s addition is the cross course ski slope, an extreme ski game with obstacles on the slope such as banks, waves and ski jumps.

Pyeongchang-gun in Gangwon Province. pp.co.kr 1588-2828 Hyundai Sungwoo Resort Located in Hwoengseong-gun in Gangwon Province, Hyundai Sungwoo Resort is dedicated to creating a leisure space that harmonizes human activity with the nature surrounding it. Don’t worry, though—they make it fun, too. The resort has 20 internationally certified slopes as well as courses found nowhere else in the country (Fun Park, X-Park, and Super-Five). To take advantage of some serious deals, look into the mobile membership with 30-60% off fees. hdsungwooo. co.kr 033-340-3000

Muju Resort The winter sports facilities at Muju Resort are globally recognized and widely acclaimed by ski and snowboard experts. With a total of 30 ski slopes in the resort, it has the largest number of slopes in Korea. If you’re looking for a challenge, Muju Resort has the steepest slope (60 degrees) in the country. This winter, they are also opening the longest ski slope in Korea (6.1km long) called Silk Road. This will also be the first year Muju Resort offers midnight skiing, available through 2 am. Muju-gun in South Jeolla Province. mujuresort.com 063-322-9000

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E lys ian G angchon Resort With the opening of a new subway station, Elysian Gangchon Resort has just gotten closer to you. The midnight package lets customers enjoy all night skiing from 10 pm to 5 am for W35,000. Take advantage of the Flexible Lift Pass which allows customers to choose the time they want to use lifts for the first time in Korea. Other entertaining events include concerts of famous singers held every weekend, fire-skiing shows, and fireworks. Chuncheon in Gangwon Province. elysian.co.kr 033-260-2000

Pine Resort T h i s y e a r- r o u n d r e s o r t i s located at the foot of the beautiful mountains in Yongin and only takes about 40 minutes to reach from Seoul by car. There’s a newly opened slope for beginners to start learning to ski and s n owb oa r d s afe l y. If yo u’re already a seasoned veteran, you can start your adventure at the Extreme Snow Park, which has various challenging courses.

Midnight skiing and concerts are also available if you’re looking for more excitement. Yongin in Gyeonggi Province. pineresort.com 031-338-2001

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Oak Valle y Resort There are a total of 9 slopes at Snow Park in Oak Valley Resort: 2 beginner courses, 5 intermediate courses and 2 expert courses.

Each of these slopes were meticulously and uniquely designed.

The resor t has gone to great lengths to provide great food along with great skiing so you can stay healthy without compromising taste at the resort’s restaurants. Various exciting and entertaining events will be held during the season such as concerts by famous singers, fireworks and much more. Wonju in Gangwon Province. oakvalley.co.kr 033-730-3500

10 Magazine January 2011 | 33

Expat News Edited by K you ngh ee Li m and Dav i d Carru t h

January 2011

Yearly Bazaars Held by SIWA and BIWA

Citi Cards Give Discounts at Ski Resorts As you’re zipping down the ski slope, take the prices down a notch as well with Citibank Korea’s on-site discounts at Jisan Resort and Hi One Resort for all Citi Cards members. For the 2010-2011 winter season, Citi Cards members visiting Jisan Resort receive 20-30% discount on lifts, rentals and lessons and a 10% discount at restaurants.

At Hi One Resort, they can get 30% off for lifts, gondola, rentals, 30-50% off the condominium and hotel, and 10-40% off other resort facilities. Save money as you savor your skiing trip this winter. citibank.co.kr/eng/card.html 02-2004-1004

Expat Photographer Provides High-Quality, Creative Work

Are you looking for some creative, professional photography and don’t know where to start in a foreign country? Contact Seoul-based Australian photographer Dylan Goldby (WelkinLight Photography) to discuss what you’re looking for. Most widely known for his covers and contributions to 10 Magazine, he specialises in meeting and exceeding the needs of clients in the areas of portraiture, music promotion, and food photography.

Whether you are looking for portraits for your family and friends back home, a menu for your restaurant, or promo materials for your up-and-coming band here in Seoul, WelkinLight Photography is ready to serve you! To see more of Dylan’s work or make an inquiry visit welkinlight.com or call 010-4453-0524.

BIWA Bazaar 34 | 10 Magazine January 2011

SIWA Bazaar

Three things you can count on at the end of the year are chilly weather, the holidays, and international bazaars. The Seoul International Women’s Association (SIWA) held its bazaar on November 30th, followed on December 4th by BIWA in Busan.

SIWA and the diplomatic community have been hosting their annual bazaar to raise funds for charities in Korea since 1978. Held this year at the Grand Hilton Hotel, the event was attended by actress Yunji Lee, the wives of the first and second Vice Ministers of Foreign Affairs and Trade, the Prime Minister, and the Mayor of Seoul, as well as over 2,000 members of the public.

Fifty-seven countries and vendors participated by selling imported goods such as chocolate, cheese, wine, Persian carpets, Italian leather goods, and African handmade accessories and decorations. Net profit from the event exceeded W81 million.

There were raffle and lucky draw prizes, as well as various performances, including the diplomatic community spouses’ choir and the Russian dance group Moscovia.

A few days late r, the BIWA ba z a a r brought an estimated 1,000 people to the 2nd floor conference center at the Haeundae Grand Hotel. The BIWA bazaar has been held annually for more than twenty years. VIP guests at the opening included wives of the general consuls of China, USA, Russia, and the president of the Grand Hotel.

The BIWA bazaar featured Norwegian, Japanese, and Russian corners along with fascinating items including Christmas handicrafts, souvenirs from different countries, original artwork by BIWA members, Korean ceramics, jewelry and clothing. This year, 25 million was raised on the day of the bazaar, which is expected to reach last year’s record of 30 million after calculating corporate donations. These donations will go to support BIWA’s long-standing charities.

The international food corner, with food prepared by ladies from France, Spain, China, and other countries was especially popular with guests. There were also performances by local international schools along with an instant lottery and raffle.

Visit the following websites to get involved or learn more about these fantastic organizations: siwapage.com, biwa-korea.com

Gastronomic News Tea Time at the Marriott Executive Apartment Afternoon tea is now an everyday pleasure at the Marriott Executive Apartment’s Park Café. Each afternoon from 2:30 - 4:30, the pastry chefs will exhibit a new collection of desserts. Perennial favorites like baked brownies and oatmeal cookies will share the display with exotic choices like mango mousse and ice cream from New Zealand. Ten Asian and Western teas and coffees available ensure that the right combination is at hand. The Afternoon Tea Collection will be served seven days a week for W20,000++ per person, including tea. Fresh fruit juice or iced drinks are also available for an additional W3,000. measeoul.com 02-2090-8050

Astoria Guests Get Free Meal with Customer Rewards Promotion Talk about room and board! Stay at one of the newly renovated Cozy Twin rooms at the Astoria Hotel and you get a free stylish meal at the hotel’s New York-style restaurant Bella Coolla 63.

Recent remodeling has taken the “comfortable and cozy” interior and upgraded it with ACE platinum beds along with classy new wallpaper colors. They’ve preserved the high ceilings which date back to 1952, however, giving guests a peek into the hotel’s rich history.

Guests in these Cozy Twin rooms are offered one 1959 EST Course at Bella Coolla 63 on the 1st floor of the hotel. This free dinner gets started with bread dipped in balsamic vinegar, soup and salad, moves on to pasta or rice, and wraps up with dessert.

All this takes place in the luxurious restaurant that has become the favorite of TV crews and movie directors like Woo-seok Gang.

02-2275-7473

10 Magazine January 2011 | 35

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36 | 10 Magazine January 2011

PA L A C E SEOUL

Through March 27th

Marc Chagall: Magician of Color From the second floor landing, the entrance to the exhibit is imposing, leading into a darkened room where the main thing visible is “CHAGALL” written in large red letters.

You won’t find any pictures by Marc Chagall (1887 – 1985) in the first room—just pictures of him and his family and a timeline of his life (in Korean), as if to suggest that to understand Chagall’s art, you have to start by understanding him.

While the work of most great masters defies cut-and-dried textbook explication, Chagall’s is especially so. Though he lived a long and turbulent life in which he had to immigrate twice, first to France and then to the US, his childhood experiences and his identity as a Jew were the wellspring of his creative output.

Continued on p. 47

ton deserves mention for his slightly disturbing turn as assistant teacher Mr. Poppy, but the kids are the true stars of the film. Some scenes are a little hit or miss, but the movie has a certain charm that allows you to forgive its faults. The nativity musical sequences towards the end of the film are superbly put together and will warm the cockles of even the hardest of hearts. It may be patchy in places, but this is good clean fun for all the family and something to cheer you up during the long winter nights. * * *

Love, in Between 두 여자 Directed by Yun-su Jeong

Korean cinema-goers are fond of

Movies Due Date

Directed by Todd Phillips Hand on heart, I went into Due

Date wanting it to be funny, I really did.

Todd Phillips was responsible for last year’s comedy hit, The Hangover, as well as being the brains behind Old School and Road Movie, so I went into the cinema expecting a fair few laughs at the very least. I didn’t realize how unfunny Phillips can actually be.

This mean-spirited road movie follows misanthrope Peter Highman (Robert Downey Jr.) as he tries to fly cross country to witness the birth of his baby. However, thanks to a chance meeting with aspiring actor Ethan Tremblay (Zach Galifianakis) and his little dog Sunny, he’s placed on the no-f ly list and forced to drive cross country with actor and dog in tow. Hijinks of the relatively unamusing kind ensue.

Due Date should have been funny: all the right characters, situations and set pieces are in place, but it misses the mark time and time again. Downey Jr. is as charismatic as ever, but Galifianakis comes across as just plain annoying for the most part and it feels as if you’re watching 38 | 10 Magazine January 2011

b y Pa u l M at t he w s

a poor remake of Planes, Trains and Automobiles with most of the jokes and all the heart removed. Avoid. * * *

Nativity!

Directed by Debbie Isitt

From the director of Confetti

comes another partially improvised comedy film. This time it’s all about the kids as we follow primary school teacher Paul Maddens (Martin Freeman) in his desperate attempt to make his school’s nativity play a hit in his home town and in Hollywood, as well as win back his one true love, Jennifer (Ashley Jensen).

Ma r t i n Freema n does well a s t he stressed school teacher and Marc Woot-

tragic love stories, and we can add Two Women to this year’s long list of melodramas as it takes us down the well-trodden path of extra-marital affairs and betrayal.

After ten happy years of marriage, Soyeong (Eun-gyeong Shin) discovers that her husband Ji-seok (Jun-ho Jeong) is having an affair with one of his graduate students. She sets out to find his mistress, Su-ji (Yi-young Shim) and befriends her under a false name. As their friendship grows, So-yeong tries to understand what made her husband betray her and at the same time forms a bond with the woman she despises.

The central idea of wife and mistress forming a friendship makes this ultimately flawed film worth a look. Eun-gyeong Shin and Yi-young Shim are fantastic as the betrayed wife and the youthful lover. When the two of them are onscreen together, there is a real sense of friendship and intimacy that is hard to capture on film. But the movie ultimately disappoints due to its poor script, ridiculous ending and gratuitous sex scenes that are hardly sexy and add very little to the story. In the hands of another writer and director, Two Women might have been brilliant, but the film meanders along, unsure of where it is going or what genre it belongs to. It’s a shame for such a great idea to be wasted, but it’s some consolation to see two incredible actresses given the screen time that they deserve.

NATIONWIDE CALENDAR New This Month

Edited by s o n g le e and dav i d ca r ruth

NATIONWIDE

Season of the Witch USA, 13th.

Starring Nicolas Cage, Ron Perlman, Stephen Campbell; directed by Dominic Sena. Nicolas Cage has made his fair share of poor movie choices (Ghost Rider, anyone?), and this may prove out to be another. Joined by Ron Perlman (Hellboy), Cage plays a crusader who returns home to the ravages of the Black Plague. Monks, knights, and witches inhabit this medieval thriller. seasonofthewitchfilm.com The Green Hornet USA, 27th. Starring Seth Rogen, Cameron Diaz, Christoph Waltz; directed by Michel Gondry. Though he wears the same green mask, the Green Hornet keeps switching media, through radio, TV, comics, and finally a feature film. In his cinematic incarnation, he is played by Seth Rogen, who also co-wrote the script. Innovative French director Michel Gondry (Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind) guides this story of an ordinary-citizen-turned-superhero who takes on the criminal underworld. greenhornetmovie.com

Gulliver’s Travels USA, 27th. Starring Jack Black, Jason Segel, Emily Blunt, Catherine Tate; directed by Rob Letterman. Can Jonathan Swift’s cutting satire survive Jack Black? This adaptation of the 18th century novel is your chance to find out. On assignment to the Bermuda Triangle, Lemuel Gulliver (Black) stumbles upon the island of Lilliput and its, well, Lilliputian inhabitants. gulliverstravelsthemovie.com Agora Spain, TBA. Starring Rachel Weisz, Oscar Isaac, Max Minghella; directed by Alejandro Amenábar. In 4th century Alexandrfia, Paganism is waning and Christianity rising. The social conflict arising from this sea change leads to the tragic fate of philosopher Hypatia (Weisz). Although the director of the movie, Alejandro Amenábar (Open Your Eyes) is Spanish, this is an English-language film. agorathemovie.com Megamind USA, TBA. Starring Will Ferrell, Tina Fey, Brad Pitt; directed by Tom McGrath. Where The Green Hornet is more traditional superhero fare, this animation offers “a witty deconstruction of superhero movies,” in the words of New York Times reviewer Stephen Holden. When evil genius Megamind (Ferrell) knocks off local defender of justice Metro Man (Pitt), he’s left without a purpose, leading viewers to ponder the relationship between good and evil. megamind.com 6th The Be All and End All UK Comedy/drama. Neve McIntosh, Josh Bolt; dir. Bruce Webb.

27th Joseon Detective 조선명탐정 Korea Comedy/crime. Myeong-min Kim, Dal-su O; dir. Seok-yun Kim; tamjung2011.co.kr

6th Heart is Beating 심장이 뛴다 Korea Drama. Yoon-jin Kim, Hae-il Park; dir. Jae-geun Yoon. heart2011.co.kr

27th Pyongyang Castle 평양성 Korea Drama. Jin-yeong Jeong, Mun-sik Lee; dir. Jun-ik Lee;

6th The Child Prodigy Canada Drama. Marc Béland, Lothaire Bluteau; dir. Luc Dionne. French language

TBA Sanctum USA Adventure/thriller. Richard Roxburgh, Alice Parkinson; dir. Alister Grierson; sanctummovie.com

13th Love and Other Drugs US Comedy/romance. Jake Gyllenhaal, Anne Hathaway; dir. Edward Zwick. loveandotherdrugsthemovie.com 20th Charlie St. Cloud US Comance/drama. Kim Basinger; dir. Burr Steers. charliestcloud.com

TBA Glove Korea Drama. Jae-yeong Jeong, Seon Yu; dir. Woo-seok Kim;

Dates are subject to change.

10 Magazine January 2011 | 39

Shakira

Pet Shop Boys

Epic/Sony Latin

EMI Parlophone/Warner Korea Maybe it’s my advancing dotage, but this new retr o s p e c t ive f r o m one of pop music’s most prolific hitmaking teams of the 1980s and 90s (18 top 10 hits, 40 hit singles) actually goes some way to soothing these jaded old ears. Neil Tennant and Chris Lowe may have seen their glory days fade, but this collection of highquality Britpop brings bygone years back into sharp focus. There are nineteen tunes on the album, and, apart from a somewhat jarring lack of continuity on “…The Streets Have No Name,” they offer up a sublime interpretation of the synth/dancepop canon. “West End Girls” (natch!) opens the show and things progress in chronological order right up to “Together” with nary a blip to mar the march. “What Have I Done to Deserve This,” they ask?

Something, right, obviously! As for “Being

by M i c h a e l B e rry Boring”? Hardly!

The Sun Comes Out [Sale el Sol] This month’s reviews represent somet h i n g of a d e p a rture: there are defin itely more mai nstream offerings for your consideration.

First up is the latest release from Colombian songstress Shakira. Apart from the inevitable comparisons to Lady Gaga, this effort, while perhaps not as pure pop as some of her earlier albums, does present the singer in fine worldbeat form. Whether bouncing the beat with reggaeton stars like El Cata (“Loca”) and Pitbull (“Rabiosa”), reprising her soccer World Cup anthem “Waka Waka” (twice—there is a bonus CD included), or stepping into heavier rock grooves with a Caribbean tinge (“Tu Boca”), Shakira struts her world music cred most effectively. All told, there are 15 tracks on the album, and in terms of value for money, especially if vibrant new worldbeat is your thing, they’ll help kick off

by M i c h a e l B e rry 2011 in style!

Ultimate Pet Shop Boys

F.Cuz Gorgeous CAN&J’s Entertainment As the year comes to a close, pop groups release the last of their albums before the deadline with all the diligence that speed and lack of time require. With only one EP released earlier in the year, F.Cuz (read “focus”) make their comeback with one of the year’s most lifeless albums. Gorgeous, an elaborately shaky set piece of late 90s melodies and safe hooks, adds nothing to the year’s canon of exceptional releases, instead sticking to the dramatic ululating that can make Korean pop seem so massproduced. Forgettable lyrics and lazy harmonies only aggravate the anonymity of an album that lacks any meaningful collaboration within the group. The throwaway vocal solos and shout-outs put the focus on individual members but fail to take the group very high on the ladder to boy band heaven, and with an album as exhausting as this, it’s hardly worth the climb. Without a single ear worm on the disc, Gorgeous won’t be appearing on any best year-end

by A n n a O r z e l lists soon.

Books

Brave New Year W i t h l a s t y e a r ’s f a i l u r e s b e h i n d

us , and girded with our new resolutions

(generally the same as the old ones), we now head into the hangover season. This month we review three works well suited for long sullen days following party nights.

I f you l i ke you r va mpi r e s w it h a bloody taste of despair, check out Justin Cronin’s bleak and propulsive The Passage (784 pages, W27,540). Cronin creates a harsh post-apocalyptic world in which a vampire-bat virus is accidentally released. Created with the hope of a ch iev i ng i m mor t al it y, t he vir us is tested on death-row prisoners who become superhumans and reduce the world to shambles. How shambolic are things? Jenna Bush becomes the governor of Texas! One little girl, of course, holds the key to saving the world. At nearly 800 pages, the book neatly weaves its multiple stories together; Cronin writes like Steven King on speed and purple drank.

40 | 10 Magazine January 2011

I f yo u l i k e yo u r t r a g e d y financial, buy The Big Short: Inside the Doomsday Machine

by Michael Lewis (266 pages, W28,510).

Lewis, author of Liar’s Poker and Moneyball, approaches his story in an unorthodox way – focusing on smaller characters, a nd z o om i ng i n on t he p e ople who accurately predicted and got rich from the crash. One of the classic “small” characters is Greg Lippman, who recognized that it would only require small problems in the housing market for big money to be made taking short positions on (betting against) mortgages. When a colleague makes fun of Lippman’s approach, Lippman snaps

back, “I’m short on your house!” Only a writer as good—and original—as Lewis could turn Wall Street Journal jargon into a page turner that ordinary readers can understand.

If you like your han (한) ser ved up locally, try Cho Sun Jak’s The Preview and Other Stories (255 pages, $25.00), which presents depressing subjects in very human ways, sometimes humorous and often bawdy. These stories are set in and after the Korean War. Included is Cho’s The Tomb of The Patriots, the famous story that ends with a john and his hooker contemplating marriage while returning from a ceremony marking the mass-murder that claimed their parents. And that’s the cheeriest story in the collection. The follow-up story shows the joh n shacking up with another prostitute, a one-armed former crush, who then bur ns to death.

Despite the generally dolorous tone of Cho’s work, the stories are engaging and you find yourself rooting for his doomed characters even as their lives implode.

Tech

b y S taffor d L u ms d e n

Feeling Chatty?

New apps raise the standard for staying connected while raising questions about privacy online.

The iPhone and Android platforms have a plethora of chat-based applications available to keep you talking with friends and colleagues. At the same time, users can broadcast their location via GPS and apps like Twitterific and “check in” to their favorite stores and cafes with FourSquare and Places on Facebook.

But what happens when you combine chat with location services? You get

nationwide Hotlines Emergency 119 Police 112 Directory Assistance 114 Medical Information Center 1339 This is a 24-hour, nationwide hospital information service available in English, Korean, Chinese and Japanese.

N o t f o r t h e Pa r a n o i d

Features like these have led some to question the safety and privacy of WhosHere. While information on how close two users actually are is masked by the app, people have reported finding other users at the same restaurant. This of course is no different from FourSquare, which explicitly names your location and even provides a map if you allow it to.

Citibank citibank.co.kr Deutsche Bank Bank of America Bank of China BNP Paribas

bnpparibas.co.kr HSBC

Additionally, WhosHere has been cited for not f lagging inappropriate content.

Users are free to put up any sort of photo, salacious or otherwise, in their profiles.

And on top of this there have been cries from some sectors that WhosHere is a vector for prostitution, or at least a way of initiating carefree no-strings-attached intimate liaisons (though this may be why some download the app in the first place).

But the fact that you can call complete strangers, some of whom might have forgotten to turn this function off, is probably the greatest need for caution when using this app.

With that in mind, users might want to try a more vanilla version. One good example is KakaoTalk, a chat app developed in Korea and now doing very well in China. It seems the latest version of KakaoTalk does away with the location based “let’s-talk-to-strangers” mode it once had and instead lets users concentrate on people already listed in their contacts or whom they add themselves.

WhosHere and KakaoTalk are both free and available from the iTunes App Store.

KakaoTalk: kakao.com/talk/en WhosHere: myRete.com

02-3455-2114 02-724-4500 02-2202-4500 02-399-0368 02-317-1700 02-311-0060

Overseas Accommodation

Foreigner Assistance/Translation BBB 24-hour Language Assistance

1588-5644 KTO Tourism 24-hr Infoline 1330 Korea Immigration immigration.go.kr 1345 Korean Customs customs.go.kr 1577-8577 Seoul Dasan (city info) 02-120

Investment Assistance KOTRA kotra.or.kr Invest Korea investkorea.org

02-3460-7114 02-3460-7545

Korean Banks Shinhan Bank Seoul Global Center 1st Floor, Seoul Finance Center 84 Taepyungro 1-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul 02773-3131 Korea Exchange Bank (KEB 외환은행) keb.co.kr 02-729-0114 SC First Bank (SC 제일은행) scfirstbank.com 02-3702-3114

Major Foreign Banks American Express americanexpress.co.kr 02-2000-8100 Australia & New Zealand Banking Group 02-3700-3100 China Construction Bank ccbseoul.com 02-6730-1718

Villa Orchid

Bali

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10 Magazine January 2011 | 41

NATIONWIDE

WhosHere.

Available for iPod and iPhone (no indications of an Android App just yet) WhosHere is a mobile proximity networking app, which is a complicated way of saying it’s an app that allows you to chat with people around you. After downloading, users are encouraged to set up a profile listing their interests, likes and dislikes and add a photo. Then they can jump in and see other users who are around them, sending messages, pictures and even calling people who have registered their phone numbers with the app.

SEOUL Food Review

A Memphis Belle in Bangbae Memphis King BBQ

W o r ds a nd shots by J o e mc p h e r s o n

Memphis King BBQ brings Southern-style ribs to southern Seoul.

W

ise men say only fools rush into the area around Bangbae Station, a culinary wasteland between Seoul University, Soraemaul’s French Village and Gangnam. That is until the Graceland of barbecue joints got diners all shook up with authentic Southern-style ribs straight from the home of the blues. Opened by Memphis native Daniel Chang, Memphis King BBQ is a mixture of restaurant, café and hof that can suit most any occasion and excuse to gorge.

Let’s start with the pork ribs because I love me some tender ribs. Many American-style rib places in Seoul parboil their meat to tenderize it. This leeches the flavor out and even makes the bones soft. They also trim the tops of the ribs. Memphis King’s ribs (W8,900 – W25,000) are smoked (no liquid smoke) with no boiling and are full on without the tips trimmed. They’re meaty and smoky with that distinct Memphis sweetness in the sauce.

They’re served with coleslaw and crispy fries.

The fusion dishes Daniel throws on the menu are the devil in disguise. Even though I’m burned out on Seoul’s idea of fusion, these flavors actually work. The BBQ Fried Rice (W6,000) is pure Memphis Korean-American comfort food and goes great with Memphis King’s original Korean barbecue sauce. The BBQ Sandwich (W6,900) follows the number one rule of BBQ sandwiches— it’s messy. Prepare for the creamy coleslaw and sauce on this one by grabbing a big hunk o’ napkins. But I can’t help falling in love with the BBQ Spaghetti (W4,500 –

42 | 10 Magazine January 2011

W9,000), which is actually a Mississippi native. Don’t be cruel because this tastes like Saturday night dinners at a Southern church parking lot: hearty, smoky and slightly sweet. It’ll get your mojo working. Other unique dishes are the BBQ Burrito, BBQ Curry Rice, BBQ Thin Pizza, BBQ Nachos, BBQ Quesadilla—basically BBQ anything.

The strength of Memphis King is not just the ribs. It’s the drive to create a bit of home away from home. They even serve a childhood favorite that likely is not found anywhere else on the peninsula, a Coke Float. It’s just ice cream in a mug of cola, but it’s one of those simple joys of childhood that expats crave like a favorite teddy bear.

I suggest giving Memphis King a try for lunch, dinner or, if you’re lonesome tonight, have some BBQ and beer with friends. It’s now or never.

But for me, that Coke Float will English menu and English spoken always be on my mind.

Smoking section There are options and meat can be held Accessible Not necessary An authentic taste of Memphis and then some Not the most convenient location W5,500 – W25,0000 02-797-0127 1924-9 Bangbae 1-dong, Seochu-gu Bangbae Station(line 2), exit 3.

Left at Kookmin Bank and right at the 4-way intersection.

11 am - 10 pm, closed Sunday

FOODIE FINDS

Suljip Story Mexican, Indian, Thai—with the astounding array of international dining options in Itaewon, Korean food is usually the last thing that comes to mind. But off in a little side street is Beodeulgol Story 버들골 이야기, a delicious, seafood-based suljip (Korean bar) where the walls are bursting with thank-you cards from appreciative customers and menus are written by hand on a copper pot lid adorned with little fish stickers. The service is impeccable, with servers who more often than not are always a step ahead of you. What’s best are the delicious dishes large enough to serve a small army, usually less than W20,000. My go-to is the seafood tofu kimchi. Itaewon Stn. (ex. 4). Turn right past Geckos and it’s at the end of the alley on the right. Open till 2-3 am weekdays, 12 am on Sunday. 02-797-0167 Words and shot by Lisa X ing

Bigger, Longer, and More Crust Having a craving for pizza and a nice cold beer? Head to Crow’s Nest in Itaewon. This simple and cozy pizza pub is a great place to kick back and munch on Korea’s biggest pizza! Not only can you enjoy the 20- inch pizza, but Crow’s Nest also has a variety of beers, cocktails, and wine at a reasonable price. Attend Happy Hour everyday from 5 pm to 7 pm to enjoy the drink and appetizer specials. Crow’s Nest also offers ladies free cocktails every Wednesday from 7 to 9 pm. If you’re going there for a special occasion, let them know in advance and they will put on a special flair show for you. Pizzas range from W15,900 to W32,900, beers W5,000 to W7,5000, and cocktails W7,500 to W9,000.

From Itaewon Stn. (ex. 2), walk straight and take your first left and first right into the alley behind the Hamilton Hotel. Crow’s Next is located on the 2nd floor on the left. 02-749-7888

Words by Grace Lee

Our mission is to help you achieve beauty and harmony in your lifestyle. Our stylists are carefully trained in advanced techniques to bring out the best in your hair. We guarantee that you will receive professional service.

Clockwise: Australian sirloin steak, seafood plate, spinach salad with pork bellyconfit, and dessert

It’s OK2 Indulge O Kitchen 2, or OK2, is one of those secret side street finds that would be at home in New York’s West Village. The menu is whimsical but professional, on the cutting edge of culinary trends but rooted in local ingredients. The hanok-shaped dining room serves mind-blowing sashimi, Tuscan bean and sausage soup, fresh pastas with original flavors (grilled mackerel and sesame leaf pesto) along with sophisticated desserts for grown-ups. The lunch special is a steal with four courses plus dessert for W21,000 to W36,000.

The menu changes with the seasons, so check back regularly.

Itaewon Stn. (line 6, ex. 1). Turn right on the street before Burger King. 02-797-6420 Words and shots by Joe McPherson

Trained at Toni&Guy and Vidal Sassoon Academy in UK

Call to make an appointment 070-4227-6158 / 010-3172-3177 Open 10 am — 8 pm English service available

10 Magazine January 2011 | 43

SEOUL DISCOVERIES

SEOUL

Tokyo Jazz in Seoul Quality jazz in an unpretentious, unimposing venue just outside of COEX mall.

Tokyo Jazz Bar is one of several jazz establishments south of the Han River. Very likely the one many are most familiar with is Once In a Blue Moon in Apgujeong. While Tokyo Jazz Bar isn’t quite as large as its more famous counterpart, it still offers great jazz tunes for serious listeners.

Having opened just five years ago, the intimate venue has live music every night of the week from 9:30 pm to 12:30 am. Featured musicians hail from as far as America and Europe, together with local Korean talent. Given its relatively small interior, the owner tends to shy away from obnoxious amplifiers and microphones, preferring to let the music come across as naturally as possible – as though he were at home with guests.

Jean, one of the regular musicians for the house band, is a talented piano player who’s no stranger to the international jazz circuit, having toured extensively throughout Europe and Asia. He plays Japan and Korea pretty regularly. “I’ve played all over Europe,” he says. “But I really like the intimacy of venues like this.”

The cocktail list is decent and there are wine selections to keep jazz lovers company during late night jam sessions. Also worth noting is that there isn’t any cover. And with live music every night, you don’t have to wait for the weekend for your night in Tokyo.

Being just a short walk from the Hyatt and Intercontinental Hotels, the location can’t be beat for visitors here on business trips. Tokyo Jazz Bar is right across the street from Oakwood Suites, behind COEX Mall. Take subway line 2 to Samseong Stn. and get out at exit 5. It’s a ten-minute walk from there. 02-3453-4472

Getting There

44 | 10 Magazine January 2011

Words and shots by Gr egory Cu rley

SEOUL

Let Out Your Inner Princess Wander around any women’s university area and you will likely come across the stuff of most men’s nightmares: wedding cafés.

Usually adorned with pink love hearts, plush cushions and other cutesy paraphernalia, wedding cafés look like the scene of a slumber party. Party Princess in Myeongdong is no exception.

With your choice of 200 wedding dresses to try on—ranging from a cheap and cheerful W10,000 number to a more glamorous, diamante-studded W30,000 dress—girls (and guys, there are tuxedos too) are left free to roam the premises on one big photo shoot. Accessories are free, and range from classic Korean head pieces to pearl-beaded, Western-style veils. You can even accent your strapless gown with a pair of plastic beer goggles if the mood takes you.

Cozily divided into themed sections, Party Princess is an explosion of femininity. For a wedding shower, there’s a room for hire festooned with balloons, kitsch décor and personalized couple photos. For those to whom the all-important question has yet to be popped, there’s a nail bar for pampering and quaintly decorated seating areas for a comforting drink and a giggle with friends.

The drinks are as sickly-sweet as you might expect, and they come in similarly slushy names like Fresh Love, First Love and Marry, the last one an especially pleasing blend of rosemary, lemonade and honey. For something more risqué, there is a chocolate Corset shake, or a masculine Cool Guy, an iced, mint earl grey tea. And if you have passed that 30-year-old Korean sell-by date, you can console yourself with a soothing 31 Years Old, made of Chinese ginger lemon tea.

Even if pink isn’t your color, and the idea of marriage gives you palpitations, Party Princess makes for a frivolous afternoon of fun. cafe.naver.com/partyprincess 02-6361-8520 (Korean only) 11:30 am - 10:30 pm G e t t i n g T h e r e Ibis Ambassador Myeongdong, 100 meters from Euljiro 1-ga Stn. (line 2, ex. 6).

C o n ta c t Open

Words and shots by Ha n na h Stuart-Leach

10 Magazine January 2011 | 45

Ex hibitions to V isit This Month

This month, Seoul’s got a smorgasbord of art options for you to surfeit yourself on. But where to start—the innovation of modern art, the extravagance of Louix XIV, mindboggling inventions, or environmentally conscious architecture? 10’s writers give you a quick preview of what the city’s serving up for you this month.

P i ca ss o a n d M o d e r n A r t

When you walk past the heavy grey drapes of the first room at the Picasso and Modern Art exhibit at Deoksu Palace, you come face to face with the bright brushstrokes of Matisse’s Parrot Tulips. The rest of the room carries this vivid, cheerful feel.

The first three spaces in the exhibit are exceptionally planned, leading the viewer through a moving array of brushstrokes and palettes. They also prime the viewer for the headliner—Picasso.

One of his most evocative pieces on display is Mediterranean Landscape, where the artistry behind his depiction of light is brought into focus.

Thanks to the creative direction of the exhibit, Picasso and Modern Art is both visually and conceptually accessible for public consumption. For those who have struggled with understanding the genius behind the work of Picasso and his contemporaries, these paintings offer that chance.

National Museum of Contemporary Art near City Hall Stn. (lines 1 & 2, ex. 2 & 12). 9 am – 7 pm, closed Mon. Adults W11,000, teens W9,000, children W4,000. moca.go.kr Words by Lisa X ing 02-2022-0600

Through March 15th

Anyone interested in architecture, graphic design or environmentalism will find Austrian painter and artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser inspiring. The exhibit presents the wide scope of Hundertwasser’s career, from his work in watercolors as a child to his silkscreens and Japanese woodcuts. Hundertwasser applied his passion for environmentalism to his architectural designs, and the exhibit features scaled and complete models of his work.

Hundertwasser’s unique architecture, which is largely based on the principles of ecological harmony and deviation from straight lines, can be found worldwide. He incorporated nature into his work before the green movement’s influence on urban architecture became a widespread convention.

A film about the artist’s life plays in a darkened area of the exhibition hall, and his often poetic statements are featured alongside his paintings and designs. The artist himself will intrigue amateur historians, art lovers, architecture buffs and the environmentally aware.

Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 11 am – 7 pm. Adults W15,000, teens W7,000, children W5,000.

Words by Sara h Carr sac.or.k r 02-580 -1300

V e r s a i l l e s Pa l ac e Through March 6th

Versailles—the name conjures up images of lavish royal lifestyles and wealth. It served as the cultural and political center of France for over 100 years, from Louis XIV in 1682 to the French Revolution of 1789. At the Seoul Arts Center in southern Seoul, many pieces from this massive collection are on display, including the most extravagant paintings and sculptures of the last monarchs of France, notably Louis XIV – XVI and the ill-fated Marie Antoinette.

One marvels at the conspicuous consumption evident in every inch of gold gilding and silk clothing. In these ethereal depictions the Roman influence is visible, with Louis portrayed as Apollo wielding lightning-bolt arrows. The end of the exhibit boasts some post-revolution pieces, with more of an emphasis on the working class. Of special note are the expressive horses of artist Charles Parrocel, and a replica “Hall of Mirrors,” making for the perfect photo op. The only downside—there’s no English signage at the exhibit.

Seoul Ar ts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 11 am – 7 pm. Adults W13,000, teens W10,000, children W8,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Words by Ia n Henderson

Elisabeth Vigée-Lebrun

Mediterranean Landscape 1952 Pa b l o P i c a ss o

SEOUL

Through March 1st

H u n d e r t wa ss e r

Da V i n c i : T h e G e n i u s Through February 27th

The Small Way 1991 Friedensreich H u n d e r t wa ss e r

46 | 10 Magazine January 2011

Who else besides Leonardo Da Vinci was an artist, inventor, architect, musician, anatomist, and engineer? Da Vinci: The Genius, held at the War Memorial in Yongsan-gu, illuminates this self-educated Prometheus who forever altered the world during the Renaissance and the Medici Dynasty.

On display are replicas of his journals and life-size recreations

SEOUL CALENDAR Continued from p. 37

SEOUL

The exhibit’s layout reflects th is fact, categor izi ng h is paintings by themes that were important to Chagall. Moving through the Russian Period, the Bible, Love, the Jewish Theater, Circus, and Engravings, the exhibit acknowledges that for Chagall, a personal language of symbolic imagery was far more important than adhering to any given movement. To be sure, he influenced and was influenced by art movements including cubism, fauvism, impressionism, and surrealism, but his vision and experiences as a Russian Jew always came first. As Chagall himself put it, “Mes tableaux sont mes souvenirs”— my pictures are my memories.

With 160 paintings and lithographs on display, the exhibit offers viewers a chance to interpret quite a few of Chagall’s memories. The first few rooms contain most of the “famous” paintings. There’s Over the Town, a fantastic scene of a man and woman flying over the roofs of a town, and I and the Village, a collage of rustic images from Jewish Russia. But anyone interested in learning to read Chagall’s painterly language and appreciate his mastery of color shouldn’t overlook his illustrations from the Bible and other works in the later rooms.

To fully enjoy your visit to the exhibit, avoid the crowds, which tend to thin out by late in the evening. There is decent English signage, and you can also rent an English-language audio guide (W3,000). Seoul Museum of Art near City Hall Stn. (lines 1 or 2, ex. 1). Tue - Sat 10 am - 9 pm. Sun & holidays 10 am - 8 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W12,000, teens W8,000, children W6,000. chagallseoul.com 02-724-2900 Words by Dav i d Carru t h

of his inventions including tanks, scuba gear, flying machines, and eco-cities, some of which are hands-on. Highlights are the Vitruvian Man, The Last Supper, and 25 Secrets of the Mona Lisa. (Did you know she has water damage from being in Napoleon’s bathroom?) There’s an interactive playroom for children, and every 4th Saturday KBS’s quiz show “Golden Bell” is filmed on-site. You can also catch an hour-long BBC documentary, and there are audio guides in English available. The creative energies of Leonardo were inexhaustible, and this shouldn’t be missed.

War Memorial at Samgakji Stn. (lines 4 & 6, ex. 12). 9 am – 6 pm. Adults W15,000, minors W12,000. davincithegenius.co.kr Words by Ia n Henderson 02-541-3173

10 Magazine January 2011 | 47

SEOUL CALENDAR Design & Fashion Through January 2nd

Chinese painting from the 14th through the 19th centuries. National Museum of Korea near Ichon Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Tue, Wed, Fri 9 am – 6 pm. Wed, Sat 9 am – 8 pm. Sun 9 am – 7 pm. museum.go.kr 02-2077-9000.

Through January 31st Seoul Photo Festival This festival aims to “return Seoul to Seoul” by giving us a chance to pause and reflect on how the city has changed through examining urban photographs. The Kyunghee Branch of the Seoul Museum of Art will host “Seoul Above and Below the Ground” while the Namsan Branch will feature “Remember the Life.” 10 am – 6 pm. Free. Closed Mon. seoulphotography.com 02-2171-2491

SEOUL

Seoul Doll Fair Witness a wide variety of dolls: fashion, vintage, clay, porcelain, pottery, and many more. COEX 1st Floor Hall A near Samseong Stn. (line 2, ex. 5 & 6). 10 am - 7 pm, closes 5 pm on last day. W3,000 - W10,000. dollfair.mt.co.kr 02-724-7750 Through January 9th

Through February 25th World Star in Contemporary Art From Andy Warhol to Damien Hirst, this exhibit displays work by big name artists.

Hangaram Art Museum at Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Bus Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). Adults W8,000, students W5,000. sac.or.kr Through February 27th History of Calligraphy Special Exhibition Featuring Chang-am Lee Sam-Man. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Bus Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5).

11 am - 7 pm. Adults W5,000, children W3,000. sac.or.kr

Hangul Meets Modern Fashion It’s not just for writing. In this exhibit, hangul gets a calligraphy makeover and is then applied to various kinds of clothing and buildings to show off its style. Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). sejongpac.or.kr 1544-1887

Art

made Freshly chips potato

Ongoing Dialogue in the Dark Switch off the sight, switch on the insight. Vertigo Tower in Shinchon. Weekdays 12 – 8:30 pm, weekends 10 am – 7 pm. Closed Mon. W20,000 - W30,000. dialogueinthedark.co.kr 02-313-9977

Leonardo da Vinci: The Genius Who Changed The World See the review on p. 46. The War Museum in Yongsan near Samgakji Stn. (lines 4 & 6, ex. 12). 10 am - 6 pm.

General W15,000, children W12,000. davincithegenius.co.kr 1544-1555 Toy Show Exhibition Pieces from the collection of toy aficionado Won-gyeong Son illustrate how children’s playthings can take on a much deeper significance.

Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Bus Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 11 am - 7 pm. Closed Jan 31st. Adults W10,000, students W8,000, children W6,000. thetoyshow.co.kr 02-580-1300 Through March 1st

Watercolor Wednesdays Head to the big green studio in Cheongnyangni for some non-traditional art classes with Mike Stewart. One class W40,000, one month W120,000, three months W300,000. mstewartprintmaker. com, szpada@gmail.com Through January 9th Ungno Lee Tapestry Exhibition Ungno Lee escaped from the hardships of the Japanese occupation to France, where he developed a style that harmonized Western and Eastern artistic patterns. This exhibit focuses on his abstract tapestries and collages. Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). sejongpac.or.kr 1544-1887

TAKE OUT MON-THU 5PM-2AM

Cheil worldwide 제일기획

Itaewon Fire Station 이태원 소방서

FRI/SAT 4PM-3AM SUN 4PM-2AM 48 | 10 Magazine January 2011

02-794-5598

Hamilton Hotel 해밀턴 호텔

Through January 23rd Hwa-young Park “Cuba” Exhibition Set against an increasingly high-tech, sci-fi world that boasts of incredible control over matter, this exhibit attempts to put the focus on small things. “Cuba” stands for “cuba, ultrasonic, blind, antenna.” Sungkok Art Museum near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, exit 7). 10 am – 6 pm. Thurs 10 am - 9 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W5,000, students W4,000. sungkokmuseum.com 02-737-765 Through January 30th Ming and Qing Dynasty Paintings Featuring brilliant masterpieces of

Korda: A Revolutionary Lens You know that picture of revolutionary Che Guevara that appears on so many t-shirts? That was shot by Alberto Korda, one of Cuba’s most influential photographers. COEX 1st Floor near Samseong Stn. (line 2, ex. 5 & 6). 10 am - 7 pm. W4,000 - W10,000. kordaphoto.co.kr 1588-1555 Picasso and Modern Art See the review on p. 46. Deoksu Palace 1st & 2nd Floors near City Hall Stn. (lines 1 & 2, ex.

3 & 12). Tue - Thu 9 am - 7 pm, Fri - Sun 9 am - 8:30 pm. W3,000 - W11,000. pam.chosun.com 02-757-3002 Robert Delpire and Friends Photography Exhibition This exhibition pays tribute to Delpire, an important figure in the history of still and moving pictures. On your tour of Robert Delpire’s world of art, you will have the chance to discover various photographs and a film

Art Museum near Gyeongbokgung Stn. (line 3, ex. 4). 10 am – 6 pm. www. daelimmuseum.org 02-720-0667 Through March 30th “Miracle Art” Exhibit Famous paintings with a twist! This exhibit takes a lighthearted approach to great art by making visual illusions that bring the painting out of the picture frame. aT Center in Gangnam. W10,000 - W20,000. www.atcenter.co.kr 02-6300-1114.

Through March 6th Versailles Palace Exhibition See the review on p. 46. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Bus Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 11 am - 7 pm. Adults W13,000, students W10,000, children W8,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300

Vietnamese Palace Exhibition A rare chance to get a glimpse of clothing and items of the Vietnamese Nguyen Dynasty. National Palace Museum of Korea near Gyeongbokgung Stn. (line 5, ex. 5). Weekdays 9 am - 6 pm. Weekends & Holidays 9 am - 7 pm.

Closed Mon. Free. gogung.go.kr 02-3701-7500.

Through March 13th Hundertwasser Exhibition See the review on p. 46. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Bus Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Tomorrow Open Archive Work submitted to the Drawing Center at the SOMA Museum of Art in Olympic Park near Mongchontoseong Stn. (line 8, ex.

1). Tues - Sun 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. somamuseum.org 02-425-1077 Through March 14th Eurasian Culture Exhibition Compare the daily lives and culture of medieval Russian peasants and Joseon Dynasty Koreans in this exhibit sponsored by both countries. National Folk Museum near Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex. 1). 9 am - 5 pm (6 pm in March). Closed Tue. Free. nfm.go.kr 02-3704-3114 Through March 20th

January 19th – 24th “37 Degrees” Solo Exhibition by Lily Joenoes van Bunnik Lily, the current president of SIWA, will be displaying 60 paintings from when she was living in Indonesia and later studying at Hongik University. Insa Art Center in Insadong. 10 am – 7 pm. lilyjvb@gmail.com 010-8839-9763

Theater & Dance Ongoing The Ballerina Who Loved a B-Boy This story of a would-be ballerina who falls for a b-boy street dancer is a genrebending mash-up of break dance and ballet. Lotte World Art Hall at Jamsil Stn. (line 2). Wed – Thu 8 pm, Fri 5 & 8 pm, Sat – Sun 3 & 6 pm. Closed Mon & Tue. W50,000. showbboy.com 02-2266-3727

The Design Ethos of Dieter Rams Learn more about “German design” with this retrospective on 40 years of design

by Dieter Rams. Daelim Contemporary

Where you’re more than just a guest

Battle B-Boy Romance at a dance tournament serves as the setting for this exhibition of awesome dance routines and soaring aerial moves. B-Boy Theater Samjin B/D B1 in Hongdae. Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 6 pm, Sun and holidays 2 & 6 pm. W50,000. sjbboys.com 02-323-5233 Billy Elliot: The Musical Since its release in 2005, the musical Billy Elliot (based on the 2000 movie) has won dozens of awards and has been staged successfully in major venues across the worldwide. In Korean. LG Arts Center by Yeoksam Stn. (line 2, ex. 7). Weekdays 8 pm, weekends 2 & 7:30 pm. Closed Mon. W50,000 – W130,000. lgart.com 02-2005-0114 Bubble World Though geared toward younger children, anyone can enjoy this creative presentation of bubbles, fans, lighting, and lasers. Myungbo Art Hall in Jongno. Wed 3 pm, Thu & Fri 3 pm & 8 pm, weekends 2 & 4:30 pm (and 8 pm on Sat). bubbleworld.co.kr 02-2263-9742 Drawing Show Art exhibit or performance? The drawing show is as fun to watch as it is hard to classify. Drawing Show Theater in Daehangno in Seoul (Hyehwa Station, ex. 1). Weekdays 8 pm, Sat 4 & 7 pm, Sun 3 & 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W30,000, children W20,000. cafe.daum. net/drawingshow, drawingshow@gmail. com 02-766-7848 Fanta-stick This slapstick nonverbal show offers young ones lots of laughs.

Conveniently located at the 63 Building in Yeouido. Tue - Sun 8 pm. W32,000 - W50,000. fanta-stick.co.kr 02-789-5664 Jump First performed in 2003, this non-verbal show combines a comic story with martial arts moves and impressive visuals. Downtown near Jonggak Stn. Mon 8 pm, Tue – Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun 3 & 6 pm. W40,000 – W50,000. hijump.co.kr 02-722-3995

TS 45 / tg 60 / l 450; Control unit / tape recorder / flat loudspeaker; 1964 / 1965 / 1965 Design: Dieter Rams, Photo: Koichi Okuwaki

SEOUL

by Delpire and his friends, including Robert Frank Henri Cartier-Bresson and William Klein. Hangaram Art Museum at the Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Bus Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). Adults W10,000, students W8,000, children W5,000. 11 am – 5 pm (3 pm on the last day). Closed the last Monday of every month. sac.or.kr 02-710-0765

Korea House Performance Head over to the Korea House for two daily performances based on traditional Korean culture. You can also sample Korean royal cuisine before the show.

Chungmuro Stn. (lines 3 & 4, ex. 3). 7 – 8 pm, 8:50 – 9:50 pm. Dinner starts at

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10 Magazine January 2011 | 49

SEOUL CALENDAR

SEOUL

LATT Children’s Theatre Presents Five Fools 3 Through January 30th

Theater

Who doesn’t like circuses? Who doesn’t like a laugh? When you put the two together, you get Five Fools 3 by LATT Children’s Theatre, which is presenting the third version of this English-language musical. This is the story of a circus with some unusual problems. The clown is mad, the musician is bad, the strongman is love-struck, and the new star, Little Flower, won’t speak at all. Somehow within all this madness is a touching story in which love conquers fear. Visitors to this crazy circus will love the interactive sets, live music, acrobatics, illusion and comedy. The theater is located in Yangjae, Gangnam. 70 min. 36 months and older. Wed 2 pm, Sat 11 am & 2 pm, Sun 1 pm & 4 pm. W40,000. lattct.com 02-5600-999 W68,000. Performance is W50,000. kangkoku.or.kr 02-2266-9101 Legend of Flower This romantic tale of two lovers redefines what a performance can be with stunning sound effects, tantalizing aromas, holographs, and more. Walkerhill Theatre at the Sheraton Grande Walkerhill. Mon – Sat 5:30 & 7 pm. W60,000 and up. legendofflower. com 02-455-5000 Miso Chongdong Theater presents Miso, a story of one woman’s encounter with love told through traditional dance, percussion, and music. City Hall Stn. 4 & 8 pm. Closed Mon. W30,000 – W50,000. miso.mct.or.kr 02-751-1500

holidays at 2 pm. Closed Mon and Tue. 90 min. W30,000 - W50,000. www.ghmarthall.co.kr 02-722-3416 Sa-Choom This non-verbal dance performance tells the story of three friends’ coming of age. Insadong near Jongno 3-ga Stn. (lines 1, 3, & 5, ex. 5).

Tue – Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 7:30 pm, Sun 4 pm. W50,000. lovedance.co.kr 0708249-3023 Through January 9th The Snowman The Snowman, based on the beloved children’s book by Raymond Briggs, has been a mainstay of the Christmas musical scene in London since 1993. In Korean. Hoam Art Hall near City Hall (lines 1 & 2, ex. 9). hoamarthall.org 02-751-9606 Through January 17th Coronation Ball: The Musical This new musical is based on the songs of the French musical Starmania, first released in 1976. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 3 & 7 pm. W40,000 - W100,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300

Nanta This kitchen percussion extravaganza is the non-verbal stage show that nearly everyone sees at least once. Two Seoul locations and performances almost daily. Refer to website for more details. W50,000 – W60,000. nanta.co.kr 02-739-8288 Pan An exciting combination of Korean folk songs, minstrel music, and percussion of all kinds. Gwanghwamun Art Hall. Wed - Fri 8 pm. Weekends and

50 | 10 Magazine January 2011

Through January 31st Three Musketeers: The Musical Spend an evening in 17th century France with this musical at Chungmu Art Hall near Sindang Sts. (line 6, ex. 9).

W40,000 - W120,000. cmah.or.kr 02-2230-6600 Through March 31st Jekyll and Hyde: The Musical Based on the novel The Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde by Robert Louis Stevenson, this version of the original will surely delight the audience. In Korean.

Charlotte Theater near Jamsil Stn (line 2, ex. 3). Tue - Fri 8 pm. Sat 3 & 7 pm. Sun

2 & 6 pm. Closed Mon. Check the website for more details on dates and times. W50,000 - W130,000. jekyllnhyde.co.kr 1644-0078

Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W10,000 W50,000. sac.or.kr 02-3447-0424

December 31st - January 2nd The Nutcracker: The Ballet In Tchaikovsky’s famous ballet, a young girl dreams of fairies and toys that come to life. Seoul Open Theater at Changdong Stn. (line 1 & 4). Fri 7:30 pm, Sat 3 pm & 7:30 pm, Sun 3 pm. W10,000 - W20,000. sotc.or.kr 02-994-1465.

All The Sports You Can Handle Under One Roof!

January 7th - 8th Nam-jin Kim Dance Theater Exploring the perennial Korean problems of division and reunification through dance.

Seoul Open Theater at Changdong Stn. (line 1 & 4). Fri 8 pm, Sat 7 pm. W20,000. sotc.or.kr 02-994-1465.

January 11th - March 9th Grease: The Musical Broadway musical and Hollywood blockbuster, Grease enjoys similar popularity in Korea. Samsung Hall at Ehwa Women’s University. W50,000 - W60,000.

Weekdays 8 pm, Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 2 & 6 pm. samsunghall.interpark.com 02-393-0191

Mexican Mondays W1,000 Tacos*, Specials on Margaritas, Nachos & Tequila Sting Concert Former frontman for the Police, solo artist, yoga master, and actor, Sting has an eye-boggling resume, and his musical work over the past two decades is just as impressive. See him in Seoul as part of Hyundai Card’s Super Concert series at the Gymnastics Arena at Olympic Park near Olympic Park Stn. (line 5, ex. 3). 8 pm. W77,000 W230,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-3141-3488 January 14th Go-un Park Cello Recital Kumho Art Hall near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex.

7). 8 pm. W20,000. kumhoarthall.co.kr 02-6303-7700

January 21st - February 27th All That Jazz: The Musical The return of this popular, award-winning musical. In Korean. SGI Yongsan Korean Cultural Center near Samgakji Stn. (line 4 & 6, ex. 9). W15,000 - W55,000. ticket. interpark.com 02-701-1747

Wednesdays Hockey Night in Itaewon with Tailgating BBQ W5,000 Hotdog + OB W5,500 Burger + OB W5,500 Chili + OB Additional W3,000 Hotdog, W3,500 Hamburger or Chili Thirsty Thursdays W1,500 OB Draft ‘til 10 pm

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January 13th - 19th Body Monologue This multi-genre performance, which combines dance, exhibit, and video, is based on the performers’ reflection on the use and abuse of the body. Sangsang Madang Art Space in Hongdae near Sangsu Stn. (line 6, ex. 1). sangsangmadang.com 02-330-6200 January 14th - 16th Peter Pan: The Musical Peter Pan flies over the stage and above the awestruck audience in this musical, produced with the aid of a Las Vegas stage crew. In Korean. KEPCO Art Center near Yangjae Stn. (line 3, ex. 1). W33,000 - W55,000. cyber.kepco.co.kr/artcenter 02-2105-8133

Tuesdays W500 BBQ Pork Ribs*

Mahler Symphony Cycle I The Seoul Phil will perform Mozart’s Exsultate Jubilate and Mahler’s Symphony No. 4 with Myeong-hun Jeong conducting and special guest soprano Lisa Milne.

Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W10,000 W100,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300.

January 16th

Concerts January 6th Seong-jin Jo Piano Recital Kumho Art Hall near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 7). W20,000 - W30,000 (minors W8,000). 8 pm. kumhoarthall.co.kr 02-6303-7700 January 9th Ryuichi Sakamoto Japan’s modernday Renaissance man Ryuichi Sakamoto is both composer, musician, producer, actor, and environmental activist. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 4 & 8 pm. W50,000 W160,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 January 11th Gangnam Symphony Orchestra: New Year’s Concert Pieces by Strauss, Shostakovich, and Rossini.

Mary J Blige Live in Seoul With nine grammy awards and eight multi-platinum under her belt, Mary J Blige brings soul to Seoul. Grand Peace Palace at Kyung Hee University near Hoegi Stn. (line 1, ex. 1). 5 pm. W66,000 - W165,000. visitseoul.net 02-961-9250

10 Magazine January 2011 | 51

SEOUL

January 7th - February 6th Boonyboony: Children’s Opera Rombar the trombone, Tutu the tuba, Coconet the trumpet and other wind instruments take your children on an entertaining tour of the classical music of Beethoven, Mozart, and other masters.

Theater Yong at the National Museum of Korea. Ichon Stn. (line 4 & Jungang line, ex. 2). W30,000 - W50,000. theateryong.or.kr 02-2077-9000

8 Giant Flat-Screen TVs – Not a Bad Seat in the House

SEOUL CALENDAR January 20th New Year’s Concert with the Vienna Strauss Festival Orchestra Led by conductor Willy Buchler, the orchestra will perform pieces by Johann Strauss, Eduard Strauss, and others.

Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W40,000 W120,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300.

January 24th New Year’s Concert with Samsung Life Insurance The Happiness Tree Adult’s Choir and Children’s Choir sing operatic favorites with Ik-hyeon Jo conducting. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm.

W30,000 - W100,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300.

January 21st

February 11th

SEOUL

Mahler Symphony Cycle II Conductor Jeong Myeong-hun and pianist Seong-jin Jo take the lead in the Seoul Phil’s performance of Mozart’s Piano Concerto No. 20 and Mahler’s Symphony No. 5. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm.

W10,000 - W100,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300.

January 22nd CocoRosie in Concert The experimental freak-folk duo composed of Bianca and Sierra Casady will be performing in Seoul along with accompanying bass, synths, and a beat boxer. Location TBA. W48,000 presale, W54,000 at the door. 9 pm. supercolorsuper.com, supercolorsuper@gmail.com

David Benoit In addition to his numerous smooth jazz albums, pianist and composer David Benoit is the director of the Asian American Symphony Orchestra. Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8).

7 pm. W44,000 - W110,000. sejongpac.or.kr 1544-1887 Frankie J Concert Mexican R&B singer Frankie J has displayed his considerable multi-lingual talents both as a member of the Kumbia Kings and on his own.

Jangchung Gymnasium near Dongguk Univ. Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 7 pm. W88,000 - W132,000. jangchunggym.co.kr 2236-4197

Taylor Swift This will be pop-country superstar Taylor Swift’s first concert in Korea. Gymnastics Arena at Olympic Park near Olympic Park Stn. (line 5, ex.

3). 7 pm. W88,000 - W99,000. ticket. interpark.com 1544-1555 February 20th

Eric Clapton Listeners may be most familiar with hits like “Layla” and “Tears in Heaven,” but it’s Clapton’s blues guitar skills that have given him his reputation as one of the greatest guitarists of our time. Gymnastics Arena at Olympic Park near Olympic Park Stn. (line 5, ex. 3). 7 pm. W60,000 - W180,000. visitseoul.net 1544-1555 March 10th

Bang-eon Yang Concert This talented pianist and composer was born in Korea and raised in Japan. AX-Korea near Gwangnaru Stn. (line 5, ex. 2). 4 & 8 pm.

W44,000 - W77,000. ax-korea.com 02-457-5114 Vienna Boys Choir From royal choir to world-wide phenomenon, the Vienna Boys Choir has covered quite a bit of ground over the 500 years since it was first founded. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm.

W30,000 - W100,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300.

52 | 10 Magazine January 2011

Iron Maiden This British heavy metal band will stop in Seoul on their “Final Frontier” world tour. Gymnastics Arena at Olympic Park near Olympic Park Stn. (line 5, ex. 3). 8 pm. W99,000. ticket.interpark. com 1544-1555

Editor’ s Pick

Through February 13th

SEOUL

“What You See Is What You Hear”

by Christian Marclay Film

Running until mid-February at the Leeum Museum is an incredible video installation that needs to be seen to be believed (and heard). The Clock (2010) is part of Christian Marclay’s first solo exhibition in Korea, and this epic video sutures thousands of fragments of scenes from different films together to reconstruct twenty-four hours in real time. Whether you enter the installation at noon or at half past four, onscreen will be scenes from films that feature that time. As the minutes pass in the outside world, the video image keeps time as well.

W3,000 won allows you access to this remarkable piece of art (as well as two other fine examples of Marclay’s video installations). Find yourself mesmerized by this enchanting, absurd and touching homage to time and film.

Near Hangangjin Stn. (line 6, ex. 1). Tue – Sun 10:30 am – 6 Words by Paul M atthews pm. leeum.org 02-2014-6900.

Film Korean Films Subtitled in English CGV theaters at Gangnam, Guro, Myeongdong, and Yongsan feature limited screenings of Korean films with English subtitles. Refer to the CGV website (Korean only) for more information. cgv.co.kr

Family & Community Through January 9th “Here Comes the Krtek” Czech Exhibition Watch various scenes from the Krtek cartoons from the Czech Republic and browse through prizewinning children’s books published in numerous languages. National Library for Children and Young Adults. nlcy.go.kr 02-3413-4800 Through February 14th Rabbit Legends Exhibit 2011 is the year of the rabbit according ot the Chinese zodiac. The stories collected here include many different interpretations of rabbits.

National Folk Museum near Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex. 1). 9 am - 5 pm. Closed Tue. Free. nfm.go.kr 02-3704-3114.

Through February 28th Children’s Nanta Activity Nanta is the popular non-verbal percussion show.

Sessions held several times each day.

COEX Atium Performance Hall near Samseong Stn. (line 2, ex. 6). Adults W13,000, children W20,000. i-pmc.co.kr 02-739-82888 January 14th Arirang Storytelling Concert Listen to Korean love stories from old

tales and learn pansori, “Love Song” (a traditional Korean song) on the geomungo and janggu (Korean instruments). Garyeheon at Cheonggu Stn. (lines 5 & 6, ex. 5). Facebook group: ArirangStorytelling. arirangstorytelling@ live.co.kr 070-8650-2144

Education & Conferences Ongoing KOICA Global Village: Africa Africa may be wracked with poverty, but it is also a location of enormous potential. Learn more at this exhibit. 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. blog.naver. com/geovillage 02-3460-5800 Every Thursday and Saturday Meeting of the Mindz Language Exchange Want to work on your language skills? This program is your chance to start. Manhattan in Itaewon. 7 – 9 pm. Free. info@iconzmedia.com Every Saturday Weekly Lecture on Buddhism Curious about the practice of Zen Buddhism? English lectures by Zen Master Subul Sunim and others will prove enlightening. 2:30 - 4:30 pm every Saturday except national holidays.

Anguk Zen Center, 5 minutes on foot from Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex. 2). angukzen. org 011-229-2829 Through February 13th The Crown from the Cheonmachong Tumulus These royal relics from the Shilla Dynasty have not been on display since shortly after they were first discovered in a tomb in 1973. National Museum of Korea near Ichon Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Tue, Wed, Fri 9 am – 6 pm. Wed,

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SEOUL CALENDAR Sat 9 am – 8 pm. Sun 9 am – 7 pm. museum.go.kr 02-2077-9000 Through September “Ethnic Earthware from Asians’ Heart” Exhibit Earthen sculptures are the focus of this exhibit that tries to get to the bottom of the Asian mentality.

National Museum of Korea near Ichon Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Tue, Wed, Fri 9 am – 6 pm. Wed, Sat 9 am – 8 pm. Sun 9 am – 7 pm. museum.go.kr 02-2077-9000.

SEOUL

January 16th Lecture on Italian Renaissance Art This special English-language lecture by visiting professor Dr. Cinzia Bacilieri will cover the court and the role of the prince in the Renaissance world of art.

Myeongdong Gallery near Myeongdong Stn. (line 4, ex. 9). 6 - 9 pm. W5,000.

Facebook: English Fine Arts Class: Seoul January 19th - 21st English & World Language Expo If you’re looking for a job, this could be your perfect chance. Participating organizations include language centers and hagwons, bookstores, foreign language textbook publishers, Englishlanguage libraries, and English kindergartens. COEX at Samseong Stn. (line 2, exit 5 & 6). 10 am - 6 pm. W3,000 (free with online pre-registration). coex. co.kr languageexpo.co.kr 02-6000-8476

Sport & Fitness January 2nd Rose Bowl Enjoy a cold beer, a warm breakfast, and the non-stop action of the Rose Bowl at Sam Ryan’s Bar in Itaewon. 7 am. 02-749-7933 January 15th Critical Mass Bicycle Ride Bring your bike to this event held on the 3rd Saturday of each month. Starting at Gwanghwamun and finishing at Yeouido, this 13km (8m) ride goes at an easy pace for those who are not quite at the Lance Armstronglevel of cycling. Look for “Korea’s Critical Mass” on Facebook. 4 - 7 pm January 16th Forest Fire Prevention Cross Country Run 14k/6k to depart from Suseo Stn. (line 3 & Bundang line, ex. 6) at 10 am. Sign up by 1/15. W15,000. korcmc.org 010-8238-8794 February 13th 8th Winter Marathon on the Han River 5k, 10k, half, and full to depart at 10 am from Noreun Plaza in Yeouido.

Register by January 31st. dkrun.co.kr 031-919-2446

Dine & Drink Ongoing Korean Cooking Classes and Market Tour Learn authentic Korean cuisine in English from a Korean chef. Classes held at the O’ngo Cooking Studio near Insadong (Nakwon Sangga). After class, tour the market for your ingredients.

Classes include dakgalbi (red chili chicken), haemul pajeon (seafood pancake), bulgogi, bibimbap, and more.

Mon – Sat. 10 am, 2 & 4 pm. ongofood. com 02-3446-1607 Korea Taste Tour Experience culture through cuisine! With your culinary guide, visit a Buddhist-inspired Korean restaurant, get a quick tour of Insadong eateries, stop by a teahouse and enjoy rice wine and Korean bar food snacks.

W88,000 per person includes tax, food, drinks, and tour guide. Tours are usually Thu – Sun (3 people minimum) 12 – 3 pm. ongofood.com 02-3446-1607

54 | 10 Magazine January 2011

Nightlife Ongoing Club Day The best night to experience the Hongdae disco scene. Buy tickets at participating clubs like NB, M2 and Q-vo.

On the last Friday of each month. 11 pm – 5 am. W20,000 gets you into 20 clubs.

One drink included. theclubday.co.kr Rhyme Time: Spoken Word and Poetry Every 2nd and 4th Thursday, head to Tony’s Aussie Bar in Itaewon for a literary evening. 8 pm. tonysitaewon.com 02-790-0793 January 6th Stand Up Seoul Comedy Night Korea’s finest English language comedians deliver monologues and rants about expat life and other topics.

New acts are welcome! 9 pm the first Thursday of every month at the Rocky Mountain Tavern in Itaewon.

Facebook: Stand Up Seoul. james.hershberger@gmail.com January 15th DJ Nick Fanciulli This house DJ from England will be on stage at Club Eden in Gangnam. eden-club.co.kr 010-9913-3919 January 22nd LMFAO Live in Seoul Get down with the masters of party rock music. Club Answer in Cheongdam-dong across from Prima Hotel. W44,000 in advance, W55,000 at the door. 1544-1555 Seoul City Improv Show A combination of short-form improv games in the style of “Whose Line is it Anyway?” as well as long-form improvisation. Admission to the event is free (donations welcomed). Roofers Bar in Itaewon. 8 – 10 pm. seoulcityimprov. com seoulimprov@gmail.com January 29th The Lyricist Lounge Seoul Vol 4.

MCs, vocalists, live jams, old school hip hop. Club Freebird in Hongdae. W10,000 includes 1 free drink. www.wordfood.tumblr.com

Travel January 8th DMZ Trip If you still haven’t visited this chilling reminder of the ever-present conflict in Korea, here’s your chance.

Tour highlights include Imjingak, a North Korean attack tunnel, Dora Observatory, and Unification Village. W41,000. adventurekorea.com 018-242-5536 January 22nd Taebaek Snow Festival and Hiking On this trip with the Adventure Korea tour company, take a hike of Baekdudaegan on Taebaek Mountain and then visit the Taebaek Snow Festival with snow sculptures and sled riding.

W93,000. adventurekorea.com 018-242-5536 January 29th - 30th Skiing and Snowboarding Trip Includes transportation, accomodation, an afternoon lift pass, and ski/ snowboard rental. Phoenix Park in Pyeongchang-gun. W126,000. adventurekorea.com 018-242-5536 January 29th - 30th Skiing Trip to Gangchon Resort Hit the slopes while it’s bright outside, then recharge in the sauna and get ready for the “apres-ski” party. Gangchon Resort in Gangwon-do. W98,000. koreansafari.com 019-542-2955

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Call Byung at 010-3232-0625 or Email: byung625@gmail.com Samsung Fire and Marine Insurance Automobile and motorcycle insurance provided by one of Korea’s most reliable conglomerates. Also available; Life/ Annuities, Business/Fire, Supplemental Medical, Travel Insurance. 010-3232-0625 Hotels/Accommodations

KoreaHotel.com Korea’s version of Expedia. koreahotel.com 4-5 Star Hotels Astoria 02-2268-7111 COEX InterContinental 02-3452-2500 Courtyard 02-2638-3000 Grand InterContinental 02-555-5656 JW Marriott 02-6282-6262 Millenium Hilton 02-753-7788 Renaissance 02-555-0501 Ritz-Carlton 02-3451-8000 Hostels Guest House Baenang Yongsan

ATEK (Association for Teachers of English in Korea) atek.or.kr Seoul Dasan (City Info) 02-120 Seoul Global Center global.seoul.go.kr 02-1688-0120 Yeoksam English 02-3453-9038 Yeonnam Chinese 02-6406-8151 Seorae French 02-570-6009 Ichon Japanese 02-2199-8882 Itaewon/Hannam English

02-2199-8883~5

ENJOY DARTS, POOL, AND FOOSBALL WHILE VIEWING LIVE SPORTS INCLUDING FOOTBALL, NFL AND NHL AT ONE OF THE OLDEST SPORTS BARS IN ITAEWON.

Radio

TBS eFM FM 101.3 American Forces Network

AM 1530 / FM 102.7 Museums

Gahoe Museum gahoemuseum.org 02-741-0466 World Jewelry Museum wjmuseum.com 02-730-1610 Kimchi Field Museum kimchimuseum.co.kr 02-6002-6456 Kyung-in Museum of Fine Art Kyunginart.co.kr 02-733-4448 Leeum Samsung Museum of Art leeum.org 02-2014-6901 Museum of Korean Traditional Music ncktpa.go.kr 02-580-3130 National Folk Museum nfm.go.kr 02-3704-3114 National Museum of Korea museum.go.kr 02-2077-9000 National Palace Museum of Korea gogung.go.kr 02-3701-7500 Seoul Art Center sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Seoul Museum of Art seoulmoa.seoul.go.kr 02-120 Seoul National Science Museum ssm.go.kr 02-3668-2200 War Memorial warmemo.or.kr 02-709-3139 Transportation

International Taxi (English Speaking)

1644-2255 Jumbo Taxi Service (more expensive)

02-888-2000 Interactive Subway Map smrt.co.kr

EVERY TUESDAY NIGHT Great value steak night (15,000 won including beer!)

ALL-DAY BRUNCH

from 1 pm on Saturday and Sunday.

TAKE OUT AVAILABLE Find us on Facebook: Hollywood Grill 02-749-1659 hollywoodgrill1@hotmail.com

Hollywood Grill

Travel Agencies

Cosmo.jin Tour cosmojin.com Fides Travel fidestravel.co.kr Unique Travel Itaewon uniquetravel.co.kr Xanadu Travel xanadu.co.kr

(3rd Floor)

Hamilton Hotel

02-318-0345 02-755-5470

Itaewon St. Police Station

02-792-0606 02-795-7771

10 Magazine January 2011 | 55

SEOUL

ghbaenang.com 010-9071-4641 Guesthouse Korea Jongno guesthouseinkorea.com 02-3674-2205 Bebop Guesthouse Hongdae bebop-guesthouse.com, 070-8261-4835 Kim’s Guesthouse Hongdae kimsguesthouse.com 02-337-9894 Namu Guesthouse Hongdae namugh.co.kr 070-8291-4878 Olympic Parktel Jamsil parktel.co.kr/english 02-410-2114 Seoul Backpackers Myeongdong seoulbackpackers.com 02-3672-1972

SEOUL DIRECTORY Seoul Union Church 02-333-7393 Yoido Full Gospel Church 02-782-4851 Yongsan Baptist Church 02-796-0284

Korean Tours

Adventure Korea adventurekorea.com

018-242-5536

Classes

Discover the World’s Best Deal!!!

F L I G H T H O T E L PA C K A G E

climbing service offers lessons, clinics, and guided tours. sanirang.net/about. html, info@sanirang.net Suseonjae Meditation and Deep Breathing Classes jihye@suseonjae.org 019-201-5958 Wise-Up Workouts Lose weight and get lean in less than 30 days guaranteed? Author and creator of the No. 1 gym-free program is now in Korea. 1 to 1 service. Grab the book “Wise-Up Workouts” at www. wiseupworkouts.com 010-4998-8722 Cafes

ITAEWON TEL: 02.796.9633, 9636

Caffé Bene Whether it’s coffee, gelato, or a waffle you’re looking for, you can find it at one of the 400 Caffé Bene outlets across Korea. caffebene.co.kr

02-3438-6888

JNCTRAVEL@NAVER.COM

SEOUL

JNC Travel Itaewon Itching to travel?

This travel agent offers worldwide discount air tickets, hotels, professional counseling, and package goods. Mon - Fri 10 am - 7 pm, Sat 10 am - 5 pm, Sun 1 - 5 pm.

02-796-9633 Korean Safari koreansafari.com 019-542-2955 O’ngo Culinary Tours Korean Food Tours and Cooking Classes in Seoul.

Tours and classes are taught by Korean food experts. Experience the culture through the cuisine. ongofood.com 010-6661-7769 Royal Asiatic Society Korea Branch raskb.com 02-763-9483 USO DMZ Tours affiliates.uso.org/korea 02-795-3028 WOW Corea Tour wowcoreatour.com 02-739-3337 Medical Services

A Plus Dental aplusdental.co.kr 02-3442-7616 Hus Hu Dental & Skin Clinic hus-hu.com 02-519-8013

Jaseng Hospital of Oriental Medicine Are you suffering from back or neck pain? Visit the non-surgical spinal specialists. jaseng.net 02-3218-2167 Korea Counseling Psychological Association krcpa.or.kr 02-498-8293 Korea HIV/AIDS Prevention & Support Center khap.org 02-927-4322 Ra Dental Clinic 02-569-8745 Tufts Dental Clinic 02-553-7512

56 | 10 Magazine January 2011

Access Consciousness What if the life you imagined was actually possible?

Regular classes held in Seoul & around Korea. Contact Nate at 010-6285-6283 or nhkent@gmail.com

WY Dentistry Gangnam Better than your dentist back home. Dr. Yoo is a US-trained and licensed dentist with over 20 years of clinical dental experience serving the expat community since 1996. wydent.com 02-514-5575 Religious

Buddhist Seoul International Zen Center seoulzen.org 02-900-4326 Vairocana International Buddhist Meditation Center 02-735-5347 Jetavana Meditation Center jetavanacenter@gmail.com 02-595-5115 Catholic Bomun 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Chunma 02-765-0870 Dongducheon 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Hannam International Church English, Italian, Spanish, French 02-793-2070 Hyewha-dong Catholic Church

02-764-0221 (press 6) Jinjob 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Keumchon 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Philippine Center Tagalog 02-765-0870 Pastral Center for Labor English, Vietnamese, Thai 02-924-2721 Salesio Labor Center Tagalog, Daelim 1 dong 02-765-0870 Sung-dong Social Welfare Center Tagalog 02-765-0870 Yoksam-dong Church 02-553-0801 Catholics in South Korea Facebook Group, Annamarie at sunshineamore25@gmail.wcom Islam Seoul Central Masjid 02-794-7307 Protestant Gwanglim Church 02-2056-5732 International Lutheran 02-794-6274 Jubilee Church 02-569-2293 Kumnan Church 02-490-7000 Myungsung Presbyterian

02-440-9000 New Philadelphia Church newphiladelphiachurch.com

02-706-2501 Onnuri Church 02-793-9686 Presbyterian Church of the Lord empcl.org 010-2266-6453 Somang Presbyterian 02-512-9191

Bikram Yoga Gangnam Feel the 105°F heat of the original Bikram Yoga with 90-minute classes taught by passionate instructors. Behind the Kyobo Tower building, Sinnonhyeon Stn. (line 9, ex.

7). bikramyogakorea.co.kr 02-532-2101 Bellydance Lessons with Eshe Morning, afternoon, and evening classes, plus Sunday classes at the Well Being Studio. navah@live.com Fine Art Class Myeongdong 7 -1 pm Fridays. cafe.daum.net/artd

02-771-2026

Health Focus Ballet for children — Ballet stretching — Power, Step–Hustle — Yoga for pregnant women

Caribou Coffee Popular in America, Caribou Coffee has expanded to Korea with locations at Ewha University, Sinchon, Yangjae, and Incheon Airport.

Support fair trade with the Rainforest Alliance Certified coffee sold here. cariboukorea.co.kr 02-3461-5680 Restaurants

American Chili King Itaewon Beefy burgers and chili served up by owner Kevin Cyr.

02-795-1303 Bonji Bistro Just behind Itaewon Hotel and under Gecko’s Garden, Bonji Bistro offers a terrific menu of salads, sandwiches, pastas and classic tapas along with an unbeatable bar. The floor-to-ceiling window door-walls open wide, making it the perfect place to be for their delicious weekend brunch. geckosterrace.com 02-795-9656 The Frypan 02-794-5598 Gallery Through Head here to enjoy fantastic meals, parties, art, and people.

02-798-1900

02-797-9021

yogaBallet77@Daum.net Health Focus Itaewon Dance your days away with a diverse selection of classes starting in November: child ballet, yoga, tae bo, yoga for pregnant women, pilates, diet dance, and even salsa classes. Mon~Fri Open 10 am–10 pm.

124-7 Itaewon-dong, yongsan-gu.

010-9309-9021 International Guides of Korea Courses in ice climbing, rock climbing and more. iguidekorea.com Jai Center for Yoga and Health jaicenter.co.kr 02-3443-9642 Pottery Classes at Yido Academy Gahoe-dong in Seoul. Fri 10 - 12 am. yidostyle@hanmail.net 02-744-0756 Salsa Lessons in English Top Bar near Apgujeong St. Call Crys at 010-4755-4728 Sanirang Alpine Networks This

Gecko’s Terrace The original Itaewon foreigner hangout, with a comfortable atmosphere, delicious food including great sandwiches, salads and pasta, and English-speaking staff that know how to make cocktails and shots right. geckosterrace.com 02-749-9425 Gecko’s Garden Legendary for its gorgeous home-style atmosphere, Gecko’s Garden has now started offering a delicious buffet, with steaks and pasta made to order. Don’t worry; the tapas menu is also still alive and

well. geckosterrace.com 02-790-0540 Hollywood Grill The place for Premier League Football and other sports, Hollywood has a great menu of pizza, pasta and steaks along with darts, foosball, pool and Golden Tee. hollywoodgrill.co.kr 02-749-1659 Naked Grill Terrific Mexican food, salads and steaks, cooked up to order in a trendy atmosphere. hollywoodgrill.co.kr 02-749-1659 Pancakes Original Story Itaewon Mon – Sat 9 am – 10 pm. 02-794-0508 Pita Time Haebangchon The salads, pitas and pizzas here provide a low-calorie, healthy meal. 11 am - 10 pm. pitatime.co.kr 02-790-8891

SEOUL

The Pizza Peel Itaewon Offering fresh classic Italian and Western style pizzas.

Enjoy with beer or wine. We are hard to find but easy to remember! Dine in or take out.

02-795-3283 Suji’s Itaewon Great American fare in a New York-style bistro atmosphere. sujis.net 02-797-3698

All day american breakfast

IBK BANK

DAESUNG CHURCH

GYEONGRIDAN NOKSAPYEONG STATION

T.G. Brunch Cafe Chef Choi from Hawaii serves a delightful brunch along with his signature burgers, sandwiches, and more. Wine W2,500 for ladies.

Wednesdays wing night: 10 for W3,000.

02-749-8005 Toque Itaewon 02-794-3834 Austrian Chef Meili Itaewon 02-797-3820 BRAZILIAN Copacabana Itaewon For only W29,000 you get all-you-can-eat of 7 different cuts of roasted meat and a tremendous Brazilian buffet. Make your reservations today!

02-796-1660 Bulgarian Zelen Itaewon 02-749-0600 Chinese Ho Lee Chow Serving up the best North American-style Chinatown cuisine in Korea since 1998, with 5 convenient locations in the greater Seoul area to serve you. holeechow.co.kr. Itaewon 02-793-0802, Apgujeong 02-514-1730 Jamshil 02-411-0688, Dogok 02-34614468, Bundang 02-711-9071 French La Cigale Monmartre Itaewon

02-796-1244 Le Saint-Ex Itaewon 02-795-2465 Italian

Antonio’s Apgujeong Join chef Sebastiano Giangregorio for an authentic Italian culinary experience. Live jazz performances: Tuesday–Saturday, starting at 7:30 pm and Sunday at 1 pm. 93-8 Cheongdam-dong Gangnamgu. antonios.kr 02-3443-4333 Fradia Gangnam Gaze out on a panoramic view of the Seoul skyline as you dine on choice Italian food at this cafe floating on the Han River. fradia.co.kr 02-3477-0033 La Bocca Itaewon We can’t decide whether it’s a cafe, pastry shop, deli, or wine bar, but what we are sure about is that the food is fresh and the taste is divine. labocca.co.kr 02-790-5907 Sortino’s Cucina Itaewon Classic Italian trattoria cuisine in a comfortable, homey atmosphere.

02-797-0488 Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong 02-790-0776 Villa Sortino’s Itaewon An incredible Tuscan Villa interior matches perfectly with some delicately prepared Italian flavors. Just across from the Itaewon fire station.

02-553-900 korean Bulgogi Brothers Delicious Koreanstyle barbecue at locations throughout Seoul including Gangnam, Myeongdong (02-319-3351), Seoul Station, and Times Square. 11:30 am - 10 pm. bulgogibros.com Pulhyanggi Gangnam A tasty concoction of traditional Korean dishes and a contemporary slow-food sensibility, plus performances in the evenings. Close to COEX. 11 am – 10 pm. pulhyanggi.co.kr 02-539-3390 Mexican Amigos Itaewon 02-795-9711 On the Border The #1 American chain hits that craving for fajitas, chimichangas, tacos, burritos, enchiladas and even margaritas. ontheborder.co.kr Sinchon: 02-324-0682 COEX: 02-565-0682 Times Square: 02-2672-0682 Pancho’s Itaewon 02-792-4767 Taco Amigo Itaewon 02-749-5253 Tomatillo Grill Locations at Jonggak Stn., Samseong Stn., and Yeoksam Stn. tomatillo.co.kr 02-734-9225 Middle Eastern Istanbul Noksapyeong 02-796-0271

10 Magazine January 2011 | 57

SEOUL DIRECTORY

SEOUL

Marakech Nights Itaewon

02-795-9441 Petra Itaewon 02-790-4433 SPANISH Bodega Jamsil With flamenco on every Friday. bodega.co.kr 02-3432-8686 Thai Buddha’s Belly Itaewon A lounge atmosphere with full bar and cocktails along with great authentic Thai food.

02-796-9330 Eat Me Itaewon Thai fusion dining and lounge, late night kitchen in Itaewon.

Relax in the intimate yet casual dining area and outside patio. Sophisticated atmosphere is sure to please.

070-7624-3149 My Thai Itaewon 02-794-8090 Thai Orchid Itaewon 02-517-1135 Thai Garden Itaewon 02-792-8836

Bar Rouge Itaewon Luxurious wine and tapas bar in the basement of the JW Marriot in Gangnam. Happy hour Tue - Thu 6 - 9 pm.

02-6282-6763

TWO GREAT LOCATIONS

BA R SHINCHON TEL:(02)3339733

PII T AZE WZ A ON TEL:(02)7920007

w w w.b eeroclock . c a

Wang Thai Itaewon Prepared by locally trained chefs, Wang Thai offers only the best of Thai food. Enjoy delicious food in an exotic ambience.

02-749-2746~7 Bars/Lounges/Pubs

Wine Bars Dulce Y Suave Garosugil Stop by this classy Sinsa-dong wine bar for an extensive wine list that won’t break your budget. 5 pm - 3 am. club.cyworld. com/dulceysuave.

02-515-6750 Vin Ga Apgujeong Immaculate service and a subdued atmosphere make this the wine bar of choice for dinner parties and business meetings. Podo Plaza building near Apgujeong St. podoplaza.co.kr 02-516-1761 L o u n g e s / PU B S 3 Alley Pub Itaewon Rub shoulders with long-term Seoul expats and try your hands at darts or pool in this comfortable foreigner-owned pub.

116-15 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu.

3alleypub.com 02-749-3336

B1 Itaewon One of the most hopping bars in Itaewon on any given night, with guest DJs and a good vibe.

7 pm - 3 am.

02-749-6164

Beer O’clock The bar in Sinchon has darts and several sports on big-screen TVs with great food. The Kyeongnidan location will satisfy your Canadian-style pizza needs. Beer O’clock serves up good times.

Sinchon: 02-333-9733 Berlin Noksapyeong Combining a restaurant, cafe and lounge, Berlin boasts a varied menu, plus wines and all types of music. Noksapyeong St. (line 6). 457-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. awakeinseoul@gmail.com 02-749-0903

Between Itaewon This multi-level lounge serves contemporary Italian and Spanish mains, lunch, brunch and tapas in a sophisticated atmosphere with live DJs and a spacious terrace. 124-7 Yongsangu, Itaewon-dong.

02-795-6164 Bliss Itaewon Fresh beats by DJ Shine and a reasonably priced menu.

Itaewon. 4 pm – 4 am.

02-798-1125 BricX Hongdae, Itaewon Chill out at either of BricX’s two locations.

Hongdae 6 pm – 5 am, 마포구 서교동 409-1, B1, 02-3141-5571. Itaewon 7 pm – 5 am, 용산구 이태원동 119-10, B1, bricx.com 02-795-5572 The Bungalow Itaewon This quirky beach-themed bar has sand on the floor, swinging chairs, and candle-lit rooms.

02-793-2344 Coffee Bar K Cheongdam-dong A Japanese franchise, they may just have the best bartenders in town. Mon

Advertise in our Directory!

It’s inexpensive and helps expats and tourists find YOU! marketing@10magazine.asia or 02-3447-1610 58 | 10 Magazine January 2011

– Sat 6 pm - 2 am.

02-516-1970

So Much More Apgujeong Combining a hip interior design with the hottest music and the coolest drinks.

Noon - 2 am. blog.naver.com/ so_much_more 02-3447-7890

IBK BANK

NOKSAPYEONG STATION The Concorde Classic and cozy, this wine and martini bar offers an intimate and timeless atmosphere. Reuben sandwiches, quiche, soups and salads available till 1:00 am.

02-749-1210 Dillinger’s A classic-styled bar with seven beers on tap, great food and drink specials. Come enjoy our large flatscreen TVs, dartboards and Wii games. A great atmosphere for you and your friends.

02-793-7232 Ghetto Vox Itaewon Itaewon’s first art and music space. 용산구 이태원동 132-5 (3rd floor) Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. ghettovox.com 010-3370-2979 Mike’s Cabin Sinchon This Western bar has a casual atmosphere and holds special events. Near the Yonsei University front gate.

02-325-7808 Monghwan Sinchon Come for the nice décor, live art and music events, and the signature cocktail soju. club. cyworld.com/monghwan 02-325-6218 Monkey Beach Apgujeong Thailand is just a subway ride away if you head to Monkey Beach. 7:30 pm – 5 am.

02-548-7930 Mix Lounge Garosu-gil It may look like a white greenhouse, but it’s actually a bar serving killer mojitos, lychee martinis and more. 6 pm – 3 am.

Closed Sun. 011-9650-7055 Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong Great home-style Italian cuisine with late night cocktail lounge.

02-790-0776 Platoon Kunsthalle Apgujeong Showcasing underground artists and a fine selection of cutting-edge performances. 11 am – 1 am. Closed Sun. 97-22 Gangnam-gu, Nonhyeondong. kunsthalle.com 02-3447-1191 Rocky Mountain Tavern Itaewon Canadians feel right at home with all the hockey jerseys hanging on the walls and great live music and events, along with some of the best buffalo wings in Korea.

Don’t miss the Stand Up Seoul comedy night the first Thursday of each month. rockymountaintavern.com 010-5775-2327 Roofers Itaewon Come hang out in a warm, friendly atmosphere. Sample the mouthwatering menu, relax on the spacious rooftop and enjoy numerous expat events. Facebook: Roofers Rooftop Bar. 02-749-2970 Sam Ryan’s Itaewon This newcomer to the Itaewon scene offers sports fans eight flat screens throughout the bar along with the meanest plate of pork ribs to be found in Seoul. samryans.com 02-749-7933 Scrooge Pub/Dicken’s Lounge Itaewon A great little sports bar with pool, darts, delicious food and plenty of English-speaking staff. 02-797-8201 Seventy Four Cheongdam-dong A beautiful date spot featuring exotic drinks such as cheese martinis, banana mojitos and cuba libres.

7 pm – 4 am.

02-542-7412

Tony’s Aussie Bar & Bistro Itaewon Home of W6000 Guinness & Kilkenny on tap. Non–smoking environment with authentic Aussie food, beer & wine with Monday open mic and Wednesday comedy night. tonysitaewon.com

02-790-0793 Watts on Tap Sinchon Check out the parties, language exchange nights, and live music nights. 6 pm – 2 am. club.cyworld. nate.com/wattsontap 02-3142-8439 Wolfhound Itaewon Terrific Irish/British classic food in a true Irish Pub atmosphere, including shepherd’s pie, toad in a hole, fish n’ chips, bangers n’ mash along with Guinness and Kilkenny on draft. wolfhoundpub.com 02-749-7971 Clubs

Answer Cheongdam-dong After a shortlived stint as gala restaurant Le Nuit Blanche, the club we all know and love is back. clubanswer.co.kr 02-514-4311 Ben @Blue Spirit Hongdae Great Japanese curry during the day and soju cocktails at night. Hit up the weekend parties. 360-18 Seokyo-Dong, Mapo-Gu. 02-3142-5301 Eden Gangnam New mega club with top DJs, sizzling sound, and model nights. 역삼동 602 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Ritz Carlton Hotel. eden-club.co.kr 010-9913-3919 Function Itaewon The boutique club hidden in the fancy Macaroni Market restaurant. Tue, Wed, Thu 6 pm – 2:30 am; Fri and Sat 6 pm-3:30 am. 737-50 Hannnam1-dong Yongsan-gu.

02-749-9181 Heaven Gangnam The newest member of Seoul’s club scene combines top-notch technology with divine DJs spinning house and electro beats.

W30,000 general admission, W40,000 for after club hours. Near Yeoksam St. clubheaven.co.kr 02-3444-4997 J.J. Mahoney’s The drinks don’t come cheap, but this nightclub at the Grand Hyatt is a favorite with the over-30s crowd. 747-7 Hannam 2-dong. seoul.grand.hyatt.com 02-797-1234 Koobar @Blue Spirit Apgujeong Hip music for a classy crowd. 664-11 Shinsadong, Gangnam-gu.

02-518-5115 M2 Hongdae This long-running club is party central for college students. Sun – Thu 8 pm – 4 am, Fri and Sat 7:30 pm – 6 am. Cover starts at W10,000.

367-11 Seogyo-dong Mapo-gu. ohoo.net/m2 02-3143-7573 Mansion Hongdae This new club pumps out sizzling house, electro, and nu-disco grooves, bringing in quality acts like Roni Size and Goldie. mansionseoul@ gmail.com 02-3143-4037 Mass Gangnam The dance club for the

“masses.” 9 pm – 6 am. Sun – Thu W15,000, Fri and Sat W20,000. clubmass.net 02-599-3165 NB Hongdae, Gangnam Supposedly the first hip-hop club in Korea, it has one bar, two stages, and a packed crowd. clubnb.com 02-326-1716 Pulse Itaewon This chilled-out club pumps out danceable tunes in all genres of electronic music until sunrise.

Everyday 8 pm – 7 am. Fri W10,000, Sat W15,000.

02-792-6662 Q-vo Hongdae A popular hip hop club with strobes pulsing above the dance floor. Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun 8 pm – 4 am and Wed, Fri, Sat 8 pm – 6:30 am.

W10,000 - W15,000. 121-210 Ohoo B/ D 367-1 Seogyo Dong. clubqvo.co.kr 02-3143-7573

Volume Itaewon A true “music lovers” club, Volume is found in the basement of Crown Hotel. Fri and Sat 9 pm - 6 am. W15,000 - W30,000. Crown Hotel B1 clubvolume.com 1544-2635

Massage

Healing Hands Massage Studio healinghands.co.kr 070-7504-8090 Community

Brazilians in Seoul Also known as Brasileiros em Seul, this group meets up on the 3rd Tuesday of each month. alocoreia@gmail.com 010-9631-2133 Gangnam Hills Toastmasters Club Helping you develop oral communication and leadership skills. koreatraining@ yahoo.com 010-8779-1969 Republicans Abroad Monthly meetings, events, and lectures for supporters of the USA Republican Party. kmohay@ hotmail.com 010-8688-9810

SEOUL

Saab Hongdae Fashion-conscious twenty-somethings congregate here for a wide variety of music styles.

Weekdays 6 pm – 4 am, weekends 6 pm – 6 am. W10,000 cover on weekends.

02-324-6929

Rock Freebird Hongdae cafe.navercom/ clubfreebird 02-335-4576 Jammers Hongdae jammers.co.kr 02- 325-3914 Just Blues Apgujeong justblues.co.kr 02-542-4788 SoundHolic Hongdae cafe.daum.net/ SoundHolic 02-3142-4233

Charity

Woo Bar Check out the split-level lobby lounge for cool music and exclusive parties. No cover charge. 21 Gwangjang-dong wseoul.com 02-465-2222

Salvation Army Thrift Store Donate your used goods or shop at the stores.

All proceeds support the Adult Rehabilitation Center. nanumistore.org 02-365-7084

Live Music

Beauty

Jazz All That Jazz Itaewon

02-795-5701

Cheonnyeondongando (천년동안도) Daehangno (Hyehwa St. Line4) chunnyun.com 02-743-5555 Club Evans Hongdae clubevans.com

02-337-8361

Club Palm Hongdae clubpalm.co.kr

02-336-9016

Once in a Blue Moon Apgujeong onceinabluemoon.co.kr 02-549-5490

English-speaking Staff High light and Low light Cutting Styling Hair spa

Hongik Univ.

Line 2 Hongdae St.

Coffee Bean

Samgeori Pocha

Record Mom & Shop Dad

Tony&Guy Whether it’s a cut, highlight, low light, or hair spa that you want, you’re guaranteed to get professional service from the English-speaking stylists at Toni & Guy. Near Hongik University.

02-338-2773

Oakwood Premier Woori Bank Teheranno

COEX

InterContinental Hotel

Hyundai Department Store

LINE Line 22 Samseong Stn.

Tokyo Jazz Authentic jazz music performed Mon-Sat, 9:30 pm - 12:30 am by European, American, and Korean musicians. Two minute’s walking distance from the COEX and Grand InterContinental Hotels. 153-44 Samsung-dong.

02-3453-4472

Florists

Oxana Garden You are invited to the botanical life. Enjoy the fresh aroma and the cozy environment these plants will bring to your home. Find the perfect flower among the various options on sale here. Hannam St. (Jungang line). oxanagarden.com 02-798-6787

Subscribe today! subscribe@10magazine. asia 10 Magazine January 2011 | 59

GYEONGGI CALENDAR F oodi e finds

Art Through February 20th Made in Popland Exhibition Images: it’s hard to get away from them in our society of mass production and mass consumption. The art work in this exhibit draws upon these images in an attempt to comment upon and critique political and cultural issues in contemporary society. Expect more tenacity and engagement than the pop art of the past. National Museum of Contemporary Art in Gwacheon. Seoul Grand Park Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). 10 am – 5 pm. Weekends 10 am – 8 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W5,000, Students W2,500. popland.moca.go.kr 02-2188-6000.

Yu:l Love This Insadong’s not the only place to find a traditional teahouse.

Where do you go to find a cool café? Hongdae, Samcheong-dong, and Garosu-gil are some popular choices for the Seoul crowd. Not as well-known, but also worth a trip, is the café street near Jukjeon Stn. in Yongin, just south of Seoul.

Tucked in among the Italian restaurants and Europeanstyle coffee shops is a lovely little Korea teahouse called Yu:l (율). This is the perfect place for a date or a quiet chat as there is minimal noise here, unlike the high decibels blasting at other cafes. You also have the option of sitting in a standard chair or taking relaxation to a new level by going horizontal in the back area. They serve up soft drinks, smoothies, and mediocre coffee, but most visitors will be more interested in trying the wide range of traditional Korean teas including jujube tea, green tea, chrysanthemum tea, citron tea, and omija tea. There are even some sweet Korean traditional snacks to go with your beverage. Why spend all your time at the big name-brand cafés when you can take in a little more Korean culture with your tea?

Theo Jansen “Animals Modular” Exhibition Dutch artist-engineer Jansen uses simple ingredients like cable ties and plastic tubes to create massive skeleton-like structures that use the power of the wind to walk by themselves.

Gwacheon National Science Museum.

Seoul Grand Park Stn. (line 4, ex. 5). 9:30 am - 7:30 pm. Adults W13,000, teens W8,000, children W4,000. theojansen.co.kr 1566-0329 Through February 27th Ancient Artifacts From Liaoning Historians believe that much of Korean bronze age culture originated in Liaoning, the northeastern province of China that contains the cities of Shenyang and Dalian. Learn more about ancient links between China and Korea with the 300 bronze age artifacts

on loan from three Liaoning museums and research institutes at the Gyeonggi Provincial Museum in Yongin. 10 am - 10 pm. Free. musenet.or.kr 031-288-5300 Through March 20th Jean-Jacques Sempe Illustration Exhibit French illustrator and comic artist has illustrated everything from the Le Petit Nicholas series of books to the cover of The New Yorker magazine. 120 originals and 100 copies are on display at the Aram Nuri Arts Center in Goyang.

Jeongbalsan St. (line 3, ex. 3). Tue to Thu, Sun: 10 am - 6 pm. Fri, Sat: 10 am – 8pm. Closed Mon. Adults W11,000, students W8,000, kids W6,000. artgy.or.kr 031-960-0180 Through March 27th “Pop Party” for Kids Program If your kids are having trouble finding the fun in art, this “pop party” may be just the ticket. Lichtenstein, Andy Warholl, Keith Haring, and a variety of modern Korean pop artists make an appearance in this example of “edutainment.” Jangheung Art Park in Yangju. Weekdays 10 am – 6 pm. Weekends 10 am – 5 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W7,000, children W5,000. artpark.co.kr 031-877-0500

Theater & Dance Through March 27th Aida: The Musical Seongnam Arts Center near exit 1 of Imae St. on the Bundang line.

Weekdays: 8 pm, Sat 3 pm, 7:30 pm, Sun 2 pm, 6:30 pm, Closed Mon. W40,000 W120,000. snart.or.kr 1544-8117

Getting There

From the back of the Jukjeon Emart, walk over the little red bridge. Just ahead on the right you’ll see a chain Vietnamese restaurant. That’s the start of the pedestrian cafe street. Before you reach the end of this short street, you will see Cafe Yu:l on the left side. 10-15 min from Jukjeon Stn (Bundang line). cyworld.com/yulcafe Tel: 031-889-2379 Add: Gyeonggi-do, Yongin-si, Giheung-gu, Bojeong-dong, Jukjeon Cafe Street 1191-1, 1st floor Words by Pat r ick Con way and shots by C h arl e s Russell

The Vienna Boys’ Choir January 21st

Concert

Franz Schubert, Clemens Krauss, the Haydn brothers— these people share more than musical genius. These musicians began their careers participating in the boys’ choir at the Viennese Court which dates back to the late Middle Ages. This historic boys’ choir gave birth to not only some of the most significant musicians in history but its contemporary musical child—the Vienna Boys’ Choir. In its modern conception, the choir consists of trebles and altos.

Still known as one of the best boys’ choirs in the world, the members are recruited from many countries and tour year round. This concert will be held at Icheon Art Hall, southeast of Seoul. 7:30 pm. W30,000 - W60,000. artic.or.kr 031-644-2100 60 | 10 Magazine January 2011

January 14th - 16th Mamma Mia!: The Musical Tunes

by Swedish pop group Abba are the foundation for this breakthrough musical.

Expect to hear “Money, Money, Money,” “Mamma Mia,” “Dancing Queen,” “The Winner Takes It All,” and other great songs. Aram Nuri Arts Center in Goyang.

Jeongbalsan St. (line 3, ex. 3). Fri 8 pm, Sat 3 pm, 7:30 pm, Sun 2 pm. W60,000 - W120,000. artgy.or.kr 1577-7766 January 15th - 16th Cloud Bread Musical: Children’s Songs A whimsical tale of the most delicious bread in the world. Seongnam Arts Center near exit 1 of Imae St. on the Bundang line. Sat 11 am, 2 pm, Sun 1 pm, 3 pm, W20,000. snart.or.kr 1544-4852 January 18th - 19th The Fool and the Goblin: The Play Based on a traditional Korean story.

Incheon Culture and Arts Center near Arts Center St. (Incheon line). 11am, 3pm, W15,000. art.incheon.go.kr, 016-774-0014

Concerts January 15th Aram Nuri New Year’s Concert 2011 The Gyeonggi Philharmonic Orchestra directed by Byeong-uk Lee will be performing songs by Leonard Bernstein and others at the Aram Nuri Arts Center in Goyang. Jeongbalsan St. (line 3, ex. 3).

7pm. W20,000- W50,000. artgy.or.kr 1577-7766 January 21st

Vienna Strauss Festival Orchestra Uijeongbu Arts Center, 8pm, W20,000 W70,000. uac.or.kr 031-828-5841 January 29th - 30th Seung-hun Shin “My Way” Concert With top hits like “I Believe” from My Sassy Girlfriend, 20-year veteran ballad singer Seung-hun Shin has made his mark on the K-pop scene. Gyeonggi Arts Center, Sat 7:30 pm, Sun 5 pm, W77,000 - W110,000. ggac.or.kr 1688-6675

Family & Community Through January 9th Discovery of Human Bodies The average person pays quite a bit of attention to their skin and hair without knowing much of anything about what goes on inside. If you’ve ever been curious about how the body really works, the incredibly vivid human specimens presented here are the answer. Note that these are actual human bodies, preserved through the process of plastination.

Incheon Gyeyang Culture Hall. 10 am 6 pm. W10,000 in advance, W20,000 at the door. gysiseol.or.kr 1566 - 9921 Through February 6th Paper Art Festival 2011 Origami! The word may be Japanese, but the Koreans get into this paper-based art form as much as their friends across the East Sea. Learn more about the art at KINTEX

e ditor’ s pick

“Warm Seoul Zoo” Winter Trip Activities include a concert, free shuttle bus, and a magic show with zookeeper Sang-rim Lee. Seoul Zoo, Seoul Grand Park St. (line 4). 1 - 5 pm. grandpark.seoul.go.kr 02-500-7338 Through February 12th Tooniverse Character Festival Luffy from One Piece, Conan the detective, and other characters from the cartoons broadcast on the Tooniverse channel. KINTEX in Goyang (Ilsan), Daehwa St. (line 3, ex. 2). Weekdays 10am – 6pm, Weekends 10am – 7pm.

Adults W10,000, Children W13,000. characterfestival.com 031-995-8580.

Through February 13th EQ Music Play Have you ever wanted to pluck the strings on a haegum, strum a shamisen, or maybe even toot into a tuba? Have a go at playing a variety of instruments at the “instrument palace” at KINTEX in Goyang (Ilsan), Daehwa St. (line 3, ex. 2). 1A hall, 10 am – 6pm. W12,000. eqmusicplay.com 02-3141-7745 January 29th - 30th Pororo: The Cookie Castle Featuring the continuing adventures of Pororo the cute penguin. Incheon Culture and Arts Center near Arts Center St. (Incheon line). 11am, 2pm, 4:30pm. W30,000W35,000. art.incheon.go.kr 1566-6551

Education & Conferences Ongoing American Museum of Natural History: Climate Change Festival Not so much a celebration of climate change as an educational program designed to raise awareness of the phenomenon. The Green Zone at Seoul Land in Gwacheon near Seoul Grand Park Stn. (line 4). W2,000. seoulland.co.kr 02-509-6000 Through January 30th Three Points of View: The RussoJapanese War At the time, Korea seemed to be a disinterested bystander in the Russo-Japanese War, but a few years later it was annexed by Japan. This exhibit examines the attitudes of surrounding nations to construct a new theory of the effect of the war on Korean history.

Incheon Metropolitan City Museum. museum.incheon.go.kr 02-440-6734 Through February 13th 2010 Nobel Science Exhibition Plenty of hands-on activities teach children scientific principles. KINTEX in Goyang (Ilsan), Daehwa St. (line 3, ex. 2).

10 am – 6 pm. Adults & students W9,000, kids W8,000. nobel.or.kr 1688-9051 Through February 28th Onggi@Korea Exhibit Rediscover these ceramic pots that were widely used in Korea before the cheap price of plastic virtually eliminated their use in the 1960s. Gyeonggi Ceramic Museum in Gwangju. 9 am – 6 pm. Free. ggcm.or.kr 031-799-1500 Rare Insects of the World Gunpo Culture & Art Center, 10 am - 6 pm, W9,000. gunpoart.net 031-390-3500 Through March 1st Exciting Exploration of the Body Follow a guided tour through giant-size models of the various parts of the body, in at the mouth and out through the digestive tract. Gyeonggi Arts Center.

10 am - 6 pm. W12,000. Closed Feb 2nd - 4th. ggac.or.kr 031-230-3244

Dongjanggun “Jack Frost” Festival Through January 30th

Family

Grab a date, a friend or your whole family before all the snowy fun melts away. Head to Baekun Valley where there will be various activities and food that can only be enjoyed during the winter season. You can participate in a traditional form of sledding down a 142,332 sq. feet ice field. But if that’s too much thrill for you, there will be more low-key activities, such as trout ice fishing, top spinning, seesawing and kite flying. Of course, you can’t have fun on an empty stomach. There will be baked potatoes, sweet potatoes, red-bean soup and other wintry snacks to satisfy your hunger. Pocheon Baekun Valley in Pocheonsi, Idong-myeon, Dopyeong-ri. 10 am – 9 pm. Entrance fee varies with the selected activities. dongjangkun.co.kr 031-535-7242

gyeongGI province Religious Services

Grace & Truth Church Anyang, Ansan, and Suwon Sunday 9:30 am, 11 am, 1 pm, grace-truth.org 031-443-3731 Dongsan Church Ansan Sunday 11:30 am, 010-2910-7809 Museums

Central America Culture Center Goyang. latina.or.kr 031-962-7171 Elvis Presley Memorial Hall Paju paju.go.kr 031-948-3358 Face Museum Gwangju (Gyeonggi Province). visagej.org, 031-765-3522 Korean Lamp (Deung-Jan) Museum Yongin deungjan.or.kr/eng 031-334-0797 Waltz & Dr. Mahn Coffee Museum Namyangju wndcof.com 031-576-6051

café and wine bar. cafenicolia.com

032-329-0526 La Mia Cucina Ilsan The kitchen is always open at this English-friendly Italian pub with great outdoor seating all set for the summer months. 7 pm – 4 am. 010-2327-8882 First Nepal Restaurant Incheon firstnepal.com 032-525-8771 Bars/Lounges/Pubs

The Big Chill Suwon Chill out in a big way with the friendly crowd while enjoying a game of pool, darts, or wii. Opens 8 pm on Wed – Sat and 4 pm on Sun. Facebook group, edwardjorgensen@gmail.com 010-3136-0153 The Park Bucheon Rhythm & Blues Bucheon 032-323-0161 West Island Ilsan 031-917-2225

Transportation

International Taxi (English speaking)

1644-2255 Jumbo Taxi Service (more expensive) 02-888-2000 Radio

US Armed Forces Network Dongducheon AM 1197/FM 88.3 Pyongtaek AM 1440/FM 88.3 Songtan AM 1359/FM 88.5 Uijeongbu AM 1161/FM 88.5 Restaurants

Cafe Nicolia Bucheon European-style

Jukjeon Gecko’s Yongin Bundang and Yongin expats should be ecstatic to know that the famous Gecko’s chain is expanding south. Near the Shinsegye department store. geckosterrace.com

031-262-9974 Clubs

Club Psycho Anyang bcmusicworld.com

010-7754-0409

10 Magazine January 2011 | 61

GYEONGGI

January 29th - 30th Hero: The Musical Ansan Arts Center.

2 pm, 7 pm. W33,000 - W88,000. ansanart.com 031-481-4000

in Goyang (Ilsan), Daehwa St. (line 3, ex.

2). 10am – 6pm. Adults W10,000, children W13,000. playpaper.co.kr 1666-2901

CHUNGCHEONG CALENDAR Art Ongoing Fresco Murals With works by artists from Michelangelo to Da Vinci, this exhibit allows you to experience the rich history and culture of the Renaissance and other early time periods. Even if you’re not an art history buff, you can truly appreciate these paintings. Asia Museum in Daejeon. 10 am – 6 pm, Sun 1 – 6 pm.

Closed Mon. W6,000 - W12,000. asiamuseum.asia 042-863-0055

Education & Conference Ongoing Alcohol Museum: Liquorium Apparently a combination of “liquor” and “aquarium,” the Liquorium is a building swimming with alcohol. More accurately, it’s an alcohol museum, divided into sections containing explanations and objects divided into wine, oak casks, beer, Asian alcohol, and hard liquor. Located in Chungju southeast of Seoul. 10 am – 6 pm. liquorium.com 043-855-7333

Performances foodi e finds

Good Thai, Baan Thai A rare taste of Thailand in the South Korean countryside

CHUNGCHEONG

In the heart of South Chungcheong Province between the cities of Cheonan and Asan lies the small town of Baebang, home to Hoseo University. The area is a countryside haven for foreigner-friendly restaurants, not the least of which is Baan Thai.

As the region’s first Thai restaurant, Baan Thai offers a chic atmosphere and delicious food.

The owner Kris, a former teacher and director at Sun Moon University, opened Baan Thai this past summer. The restaurant represents the culmination of Kris’ life-long passion for cooking. Nearing his 35th birthday, he realized that if he didn’t reach for his dreams soon they would pass him by unfulfilled.

So with a leap of faith he left teaching, studied Thai cooking in Thailand and Korea, and opened his restaurant.

The result is nothing short of impressive. The atmosphere of Baan Thai is clean and welcoming, and the food is some of the best around. Thanks to his extensive training, Kris brings to Baan Thai an authenticity that is hard to find outside of Thailand.

When asked about his cooking, Kris says, “I love good food and I wanted to bring fresh, good food to the area.” He certainly comes through on this promise. Kris orders all of his spices directly from Thailand and buys meat and produce on a daily basis.

He spends his nights hand-rolling prawn and pork spring rolls.

The extra effort and expense pay off in each dish.

The staple Pad Thai, made of freshly scrambled eggs, is served in a hand-cut basket.

The three curries (red, yellow, and green) are hugely popular. Kris’ favorite dish, the chili beef, is also popular with the locals. But as regular Paul Charles says, Thai yellow curry “It’s all really good.”

G e t t i n g T h e r e The restaurant is located near Baebang Stn. (line 1) in Asan, one stop away from the Cheonan-Asan KTX station.

Call Chris at 041-545-9797 for detailed directions.

Words by Lucy Beaucla ir , shots by R h ys Br in dle

62 | 10 Magazine January 2011

January 1st Dongchun Circus: Mystery of the East Don’t miss the gravity-defying and jaw-dropping acts by the 31 members of the Dongchun Circus, Korea’s largest traveling performance troupe. Cheongju Arts Center. 11 am, 3 & 7pm. W10,000 W40,000. cjac.or.kr 043-200-4421 January 19th The Nutcracker: Children’s Musical You can’t go a winter season without watching this dream-like Christmas classic about a child’s imagination and inanimate objects coming to life. Originally a ballet scored by the world-renowned pianist Tchaikovsky, this time-tested story gets a modern face lift and is transformed into a family-friendly musical. Cheongju Arts Center. 1 & 4 pm. W15,000 W25,000. cjac.or.kr 043-200-4421 January 28th - 29th Brown Eyed Soul in Concert This group has never appeared on TV before so try to catch them live and experience their soulful and unique music, which draws upon the genres of R&B, soul and Korean ballads.

Jeongshimwha International Cultural Center at Chungnam University in Daejeon. 8 pm. W55,000 - W110,000. cnu.ac.kr 1588-2532

Family & Community December 31st Daecheon Sunset Festival The events take place on Daecheon Beach in Boryeong, more famous as the location of the mud festival. This beach is the perfect place to share the last moments of 2010 with your loved ones. There will be a variety of activities and shows to enjoy such as a candle procession, choir concert and a fireworks show. daechonbeach.or.kr 041-933-7051 Through February 20th Happy Winter Festival When it’s too cold to play outdoors, bring your kids to this massive play place. Tots will have fun with slides, 3D movie screenings, and sports activities. Kotra Trade Exhibition Center in Daejeon.

10 am - 7 pm. kotrex.com 1588-2532

CHUNGCHEONG PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance Daejeon International Community Center dicc.or.kr 042-223-0789

Religious Services Central Presbyterian Church Nonsan 041-736-1002 Presbyterian Church Cheonan 041-675-2008 Central Presbyterian Church Gongju 011-382-1862 Sanseong Church 042-585-8111 Daejeon jungwonh@hotmail.com

Classes Yegok Natural Dye Workshop Okcheongun Dye clothing or make natural soap. yegok.co.kr 043-733-0978

Museums Alcohol Museum: Liquorium Chungju liquorium.com 043-855-7333 Gonam Shell Mound Museum Taeangun Anmyeon Island museum.taean.go.kr 041-670-2337 Jincheon Bell Museum Jincheon-gun jincheonbell.net 043-539-3850 Korea Traditional Architecture Museum Yesan-gun English site: ktam.or.kr 041-337-5877

Hotels/Accommodations New Korea Hotel Asan 041-542-8151 Onyang Hot Spring Hotel Asan 041-545-2141 Cheonan Central Hotel Cheonan 041-564-9100 Yuseong Hotel Daejeon 042-822-9591 The Sky Blue Bird Seosan 011-382-1862 Golden Wave Taean 041-675-2008

Medical Services Konyang International Health Care Center Daejeon kihcc.kyuh.co.kr 042-600-9978 Sun Hospital Daejeon 042-220-8000

Restaurants/Supermarkets

Through February 27th

Gasan Korean, Cheonan 041-561-9500 Spain House Spanish, Cheonan

041-571-7474 Olive Farms Buffet, Cheongju

043-215-3311

Sledding Slope Skiing isn’t the only way to have fun on winter’s greatest gift to man. Rent a sled and have a blast sliding down the slope at Sangnok Resort in east Cheonan. W4,800 - W10,000. sangnokresort.co.kr 041-560-9053

Rolling Stones Cheonan 041-562-9824 MJ Cheongju “MJ Bar” on Facebook.

043-273-8366 Road King Cheongju 010-8301-5936 Blue Moon Cheongwon 043-285-0399 Brickhouse Sports Bar & Grill Daejeon “The Daejeon Brickhouse” on Facebook,

010-9867-0921 J-Rock Daejeon 010-4564-7721 Santa Claus Daejeon “Santa Claus 2008” on Facebook, 042-825-5500 The Shisha House Daejeon “Welcome to the Shisha House” on Facebook.

042-825-4157 Sponge Daejeon 042-471-3373

Bars/Lounges/Pubs

GANGWON CALENDAR Theater & Dance January 8th - 9th Mamma Mia: The Musical This recordbreaking musical based on the songs of Swedish pop group ABBA was recently released as a movie. It will be performed (in Korean) at Baeckryung Art Center in Chuncheon. W77,000 - W110,000. 2 & 4:30 pm. kwbc.co.kr 033-250-7200

Family & Community Through February 6th Pyeongchang Trout Festival In addition to the ice fishing and trout tasting you might expect to find here, there are also snow and ice game zones where you can hop on ice bumper cars or an ice bike. Ice fish all day long for W10,000 or get admission to the play zone for W5,000. Jinbu-myeon in Pyeongchanggun. festival700.or.kr 033-336-4000 Through February 13th Romance and Memories of Chuncheon From the righteous armies of the late Joseon period to the romantic scenes of Winter Sonata, Chuncheon has its share of cultural significance that shouldn’t be missed. The story of the city’s romance, memories, and beauty are told through 150 items on display.

Chuncheon National Museum. Weekdays 9 am – 6 pm, weekend 9 am – 7 pm. Free. chuncheon.museum.go.kr 033-260-1500

gangwon PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance Chuncheon Online Info tour.chuncheon.go.kr/eng

Libraries Chuncheon City Library iccl.or.kr 033-254-3887 Taebaek Municipal Library tbmlib.or.kr 033-550-2755

Amusement Parks Dreamland Amusement Park With a large zoo and plenty of rides, there’s lots of fun to be found at this park at Chiak Mountain near Wonju. W20,000 for adults, W18,000 for children. mydreamland.co.kr 033-732-5800

Museums Bangsan Porcelain Museum Yanggu-gun bangsanm.or.kr 033-480-2664 Chuncheon Makguksu Museum makguksumuseum.com 033-250-4134 Haslla Art World Gangneung haslla.kr 033-644-9411 Marisorigol Musical Instrument Museum Hongcheon-gun great.go.kr 033-430-2016 Sokbong Ceramic Museum Sokcho dogong.net 033-638-7711 Teddy Bear Farm Sokcho teddyfarm.net 033-636-3680 Wonju Hanji Museum Wonju wjhanji.co.kr 033-731-2323

Hotels/Accommodations

January 1st Sunrise Festivals You can watch some dumb ball drop, drink yourself silly, or (and this is what we’re suggesting) stay up all night and watch the sun rise at one of Gangwon Province’s gorgeous beaches.

The choice here should be obvious.

10magazine.asia/new-year-festivals

January 8th - 30th

January 22nd - 31st Taebaek Mountain Snow Festival Snow—enjoy it while it’s here. And this festival gives you plenty of chances to do just that with a parade, ice sculpture exhibit, huge snowmen, and an ice slide.

Test your Arctic survival skills in the Polar Bear Run. Events held in downtown Taebaek and at the Taebaek Mountain Provincial Park. festival.taebaek.go.kr 033-550-2081 January 28th - February 6th Inje Icefish Festival “Icefish” sounds more romantic than “smelt,” the other name for the silver fish that gathers in shoals under the ice sheet at Soyang Lake in Inje-gun. You can join in the ice fishing, become a human bowling ball on the most slippery lane you’ll ever slide down, or ride a mountain bike in the snow. There will also be concerts and ice sculptures at the festival. injefestival.co.kr 033-461-0373

Sport & Fitness January 16th Daegwallyeong Bare Body Marathon The runners won’t be completely bare, of course, not in the middle of the Korean winner. Runners are recommended to wear long-sleeve shirts and shorts. The race starts at Daegwallyeong Doam Middle School in Pyeongchang-gun at 10:30 am. 5k for W25,000, 10k for W30,000. run1080.com 042-638-1087

The Hwacheon Ice Fishing Festival

Hotel Inter-Burgo Wonju wonju.inter-burgo.com 033-766-8000 W Hotel Wonju w-hotel.co.kr 033-742-5454

Family

Ready for some sancheoneo? Once you find out that this refers to mountain trout, you’ll be more ready to head to this remote outpost in northern Gangwon Province.

The festival staff have cut holes through the ice for you, but it’s up to you to grab the pole and see if those clever fish will take the bait (adults W12,000, children W8,000).

You can even try grabbing them with your brave hands if you’ve got the guts. There are also some pretty impressive ice sculptures to help you bide away the time between bouts of fishing. Located in five towns in Hwacheon-gun.

To get to Hwacheon (화천), take a bus to Chuncheon (춘 천) and transfer to the Hwacheon bus. Upon arrival, just follow the crowds and fish lanterns to the festival site. narafestival.com 1688-3005

Medical Services Gangwon National University Hospital Chuncheon knuh.or.kr/html/index.asp

033-258-2000 Gangnam Hospital Chuncheon ekangnam.co.kr 033-240-7000 Hyundai Animal Clinic Chuncheon dog7582.co.kr 033-256-7582 Ye Dental Clinic Chuncheon ccye.co.kr 033-262-2078

Restaurants Acozza Cafe Wonju Classy pizzas served in chic industrial décor. acozza.co.kr 033-766-7999

10 Magazine January 2011 | 63

GANGWON

Through February 24th 3D Art: Fairy Tales The use of reflective paint, perspective, and shading in these 2D paintings makes them appear lifelike.

Based upon fairy tales, traditional stories, and fables, they will stimulate children’s scientific sense while imparting lessons about life and culture. Children W10,000, adults W9,000. Chuncheon Culture and Arts Center. ccac.or.kr 033-252-2178

e ditor’ s pick

JEOLLA CALENDAR foodi e finds

Pulitzer Prize Photo Exhibition After a popular run in Seoul, the exhibit has moved to the Mokpo Culture and Art Center to give folks their chance to relive history. After you’ve seen the pictures, head to the comment corner just outside to tack up a note expressing your feelings. Adults W10,000, students W8,000, children W6,000. art.mokpo.go.kr061-270-8484 Through February 27th

Culture & Art Center Main Hall. Wed 1 & 7 pm, Thurs 1 & 3 pm. W15,000 W25,000. art.gjcity.net 1688-3820

Concerts January 2nd White Love Concert Music from Jay Park, mightymouth and DOK2. Kim Daejung Convention Center in Gwangju. 5 pm. W66,000 - W99,000. kdjcenter.or.kr 062-611-200 January 6th and 27th Jeonju Symphony Orchestra’s New Year Concert Held at Sori Arts Center in Jeonju at 7:30pm. Adults W5,000, students W3,000. sori.co.kr 063-281-2748

The Original Korean Galbi Burger

JEOLLA

Just a few minutes’ walk from Songjeong-ri Stn. in Gwangju is a street filled with some of the most delicious food in Korea. Tteokgalbi (떡갈비) is the traditional Korean alternative to the burger and there’s no better place to try it than this street, which some claim is where the dish began. There may be no buns in sight, but the charcoal-grilled patties are incredibly tasty and deserve a detour.

For around W10,000 per person, you’ll be presented with a fantastic feast. Start off with a pork spine broth with plenty of tender meat to be picked off the bones and then move on to the delicious tteokgalbi, served with a selection of leaves, fermented bean paste and plenty of sides.

I’ve eaten at a few restaurants on this street, but my favourite is Ijo Jeongtong Tteokgalbi 이조정통떡갈비 (062-9449592, closed Sunday). It’s about the fourth restaurant down the street and is on the left-hand side (when coming from Songjeong-ri Stn). Their handmade beef and pork patties are beautifully seasoned and cooked to perfection. Not burgers, to be sure—but that’s not why you’re in Gwangju anyway.

Words and shots by Pau l M atthews

Art & Design Through January 30th Nan-jin Lim Private Exhibit The Gwangju Museum of Art introduces visitors to this dynamic new artist with the 40 paintings in this exhibit. Gwangju Museum of Art. 9 am – 6 pm. Adults W500, students W300. artmuse.gwangju.go.kr 062-510-0149 New Acquisitions at the Museum The focus of this exhibit is a range of new items at the Jeonju National Museum. Visitors who are used to seeing the wooden janggu (장구) drums will be interested to see earthenware versions from the Joseon dynasty. 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Monday. Free. jeonju.museum.go.kr 063-223-5651 Through February 13th Jae-woo Yun: Colors of the Soul The 100 pieces in this exhibit represent

64 | 10 Magazine January 2011

the unearthly and powerful colors of this Gwangju artist. Gwangju Museum of Art. 9 am - 6 pm. Adults W500, teens W300, children W200. artmuse.gwangju.go.kr 062-510-0149 Moving Pictures The interactive media of music, technology and images engage viewers and change the way in which we view art. Gwangju Museum of Art. 9 am 6 pm. Adults W500, students W300. artmuse.gwangju.go.kr 062-510-0149 Through February 22nd

Pop Art Superstar: Keith Haring This exhibit was held last summer at the Soma Museum of Art in Seoul and has now opened in Gwangju. Enjoy 150 works by the most populist of pop artists, Keith Haring. Gwangju Museum of Art. Tue/Wed/Thu/Sun 10:30 am - 7 pm, Fri - Sat 10:30 am - 9 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W10,000, teens W8,000, children W6,000. artmuse.gwangju. go.kr 062-510-0149 Trick Art Korea Looking at paintings has never been this fun! Experience entertaining 3D versions of famous artwork. Kim Daejung Convention Center in Gwangju. kdjcenter.or.kr 062-611-2000 Through March 6th Ha Jeong’s Special Collection: “Democracy, Human Rights and Gwangju” Celebrating human rights and anti-imperialism on the 30th anniversary of the Gwangju Massacre, this art exhibit explores the struggle to achieve democracy after the Japanese invasion of Korea. Gwangju Museum of Art. 9 am – 6 pm. Adults W500, students W300. artmuse.gwangju.go.kr 062-510-0149 Through March 27th “Life and Style” Exhibition These pieces from the collection of the Gwangju Museum of Art rediscover beauty and “style” in our everyday lives.

The thirty pieces in the exhibit represent the genres of craft, sculpture and new media. 9 am - 6 pm. Adults W500, students W300. artmuse.gwangju.go.kr 062-510-0149

Performances

January 8th Seung-chul Lee in Concert Former lead vocalist for Boohwal, a famous Korean rock band, this singer has won the Korean Music Award for best male singer and rocked the Korean music scene with songs like “Scream it Out” and “Girl’s Generation.” Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 4 & 8pm W55,000 - W99,000. sori21.co.kr 063-270-800 January 14th - 15th Brown Eyed Soul Concert This group has never appeared on TV before so try to catch them live and experience their soulful and unique music. Their music is derived from R&B, soul and Korean ballads. Chonbuk National University Cultural Center in Jeonju. Fri 8 pm, Sat 7 pm. W55,000 - W110,000. cnucc. chonbuk.ac.kr 063-270-2089 January 15th

Paul Potts Concert This English pop opera tenor gained fame through the program “Britain’s Got Talent.” Listen to the voice that has gone number 1 in nine different countries. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 7:30 pm. sori21.co.kr 063-270-800 January 18th Jeonbuk CBS 2011 New Year Concert Sori Arts Center in Jeonju at 7:30pm. W10,000 - W30,000. sori.co.kr 063-256-1012 January 20th

January 8th - 9th Little Red Riding Hood: The Play Children will love this version of the play as they cheer on the little girl in the red cape who tries to escape from the villainous big bad wolf. Korean language. Sori Arts Center in Jeonju.

Sat 11 am, 2 & 4 pm. Sun 1 & 3 pm.

W15,000. sori21.co.kr 080-071-1212 February 26th - 27th The Nutcracker: Children’s Musical You can’t go a winter season without watching this dream-like Christmas classic about a child’s imagination and inanimate objects coming to life.

Originally a ballet scored by the worldrenowned pianist Tchaikovsky, this story gets a modern face lift and is transformed into a family-friendly musical. Gwangju

Vienna Boys’ Choir One of the most well-known boys’ choirs in the world, the Vienna Boys’ Choir can be traced back to the late 15th century. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju at 7:30 pm. W40,000 - W70,000. sori21.co.kr 063-270-8000

January 22th - 23rd University of Laughs: The Play Set in the dark days of the 1940s, this play depicts a hapless playwright whose efforts to remove laughter from his script only make it funnier. Korean language. Sori Arts Center in Jeonju.

Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 2 & 6 pm. W35,000. sori.co.kr 063-270-8000

Family & Community Through mid-February Geumho Family Land Ice Skating Rink Located in Gwangju. Adults W6,000, teens W5,000, children W4,000. fl.kumho.co.kr 062-607-8000 December 31st Haenam Sunset Festival Craft and product exhibitions, tasting area, food marketplace, dance performances, family concerts, kite flying, and surprise events. Songji-myeon, Galdu town. tour.haenam.go.kr 061-530-5919 December 31st – January 1st Yeongam Lake Sunrise Festival Welcome the new year as you watch the sun rise at Yeongnam Lake. Yeongamgun, south of Gwangju. sunrise. yeongam.go.kr 061-470-2255 January 9th Doll Free Market Up until now, doll aficionados in the Gwangju area have had to travel to Seoul or Busan for one of the “doll free” markets. That’s no longer the case with the opening of the first doll free market in Gwangju, to be held at the Gwangju Design Center.

W2,000. cafe.naver.com/dollfreeg 062-611-5000

Education & Conferences

JEOLLA PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance Gwangju International Center gwangjuic.or.kr 062-226-1050 Gwangju Blog gwangjublog.com Inside Jeonju insidejeonju.com The Jeonju Hub thejeonjuhub.com

Religious Services Antioch Presbyterian Church Jeonju andiok.kr 063-274-3228 Iri Joongang Church Iksan 0 63-851-4311 Musang Temple Muan-gun

042-841-6084

Museums Gochang Dolmen Museum 9 am – 5 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, teens W2,000, children W1,000. gcdolmen.go.kr 063-560-2576 Iksan Jewel Museum 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. jewelmuseum.go.kr 063-859-4641 Jeonju Oriental Medicine Cultural Center 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. hanbangcenter.com 063-232-2500 Jeonju Traditional Alcohol Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Free. urisul.net 063-287-6305 Jeonju Traditional Culture Center jt.or.kr 063-280-7045 Mokpo Natural Museum 9 am – 6 pm.

Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. museum.mokpo.go.kr 061-274-3655

Hotels/Accommodations Gwangju Youth Hostel 062-943-4378 Ramada Plaza Gwangju ramadagwangju.com 062-717-7000

Radio TBS eFM Gwangju FM 98.7 US Armed Forces Network Gunsan AM 1440/FM 88.5 Gwangju FM 88.5

Restaurants/Supermarkets

Haenam Dinosaur Museum As the first such museum in the region, the Haenam Dinosaur Museum introduces visitors to the rich fossil legacy of Uhang-ri in Haenam-gun. Haenumgun. 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, teens, W2,000, children W1,000. uhangridinopia.haenam.go.kr 061-532-7225 Through January 30th Undying Majesty: Tombs of the Joseon Kings Jeonju Eojin Museum.

9 am - 6 pm, closed Mon. Free. tour.jeonju.go.kr 063-281-2790

Sport & Fitness February 13th Land’s End Marathon Full, half, 10k, 5k to depart from Wooseul Stadium in Haenam. Sign up by January 22nd.

W10,000 - W30,000. ddangma.com 061-534-9170

First Nepal Restaurant firstnepal.com 062-225-8771 Tequilaz Gwangju’s first Mexican cantina serves up your south-of-the-border favorites with magical margaritas and, of course, killer tequilas. tequilaz.com Underground Grocers Gwangju This foreigner-run food shop has those hardto-find cheeses, taco shells and other delicacies you crave.

062-232-2626

Live Music Venues Bars/Lounges/Pubs Art & Travel Cafe Jeonju Open mic nights every Wednesday from 9 pm.

Facebook group, 011-9437-0208 Deepin Jeonju Popular expat bar with Texas Holdem on Sundays.

019-9646-1028 Led Zeppelin Art Space Jeonju Hosts underground bands both expat and Korean. cafe.daum.net/k250073

018-607-6321 Radio Star Jeonju Under the 7-11 in Junghwasan-dong. 011-9444-9609 Speakeasy Gwangju The fun never stops at this fantastic bar owned and operated by honest Irishman Derrek Hannon.

010-4713-3825 San Antonio Latin Bistro Suncheon Suncheon surprises with this Latinthemed restaurant and bar. Facebook group, pyroz@hotmail.com 061-724-2234

These computer graphics give a preview of what the festival will be like.

Light Festival at the Boseong Tea Plantation Come for the tea, stay for the light festival.

Through February 6th

Family

Korea’s history of cultivating and consuming green tea is almost as long as China’s, and there are several sites around Korea that are known for their exquisite tea as well as their scenic beauty. Of these sites, the Boseong Green Tea Fields in South Jeolla Province are not only considered to be the best but have an exquisite annual light show as well.

The tea fields are a great site to visit at any time of the year. Rows of trimmed bushes curve and sweep up and down the landscape, clinging to the contours of the terrain and offering a vista that wouldn’t look bad on a postcard.

But during the bitterly cold Korean winter nights, the area is transformed into a spectacle of light as row upon row of green tea bushes in the Hoecheon-myeon and Yeongcheonri regions are illuminated after 5 pm each day.

Decorations of note include a large Christmas tree decorated with lights, a photo zone, a Love Galaxy Light Tunnel (whatever that is), and a street of lights in the green tea fields. If exploring the illuminated area isn’t enough, you can also take in the festival’s lighting ceremony, celebratory performance, and fireworks. It may be cold outside this winter, but the twinkling lights will communicate a heart-warming message of hope to visitors to Boseong over the Christmas and New Year holiday season.

Getting There

The easiest route for Seoul residents is via the Boseong-bound bus at the Express Bus Terminal in Gangnam (4hr 40 min, W33,600).

There’s also a train from Yeongdeungpo Station to Boseong Station (5.5hr, W25,300). Once at Boseong Terminal or Station, find a bus heading to the tea fields (10 minutes) boseong.go.kr 061-850-5213

Words by Rob McGov er n

10 Magazine January 2011 | 65

JEOLLA

Ongoing GIC Talks Take advantage of English lectures by professors, writers, and diplomats that promote communication mutual understanding among Koreans and international residents. Topics include a wide range of subjects such as culture, history, politics, and art. Gwangju International Center. Sat 2:30 – 4 pm.

Closed holidays. gic.or.kr 062-226-2733

e ditor’ s pick

discov er y

A Tail of Two Cafés

These Ulsan pet cafés cater to your animal instincts.

W o r ds a nd shots by J a s o n T e a l e

B

ack in March 2009, 10 Magazine ran a story about crazy cafes around Korea that offer up much more than your usual cup of coffee, including “doctor fish” and animal companions. These cafes can be found from the trendy district of Hongdae in Seoul to the back streets of Daegu—and there are even two down in Ulsan.

T h e Cat ’ s M e o w 야옹야옹 Cat Ca f e

Usually, middle school girls and couples fill the tables here, oohing and ahhing (and shrieking) at the kittens and tossing cat toys at them to buy their affection. Both groups can get equally annoying, but then this isn’t a cafe that you’d visit for its hip atmosphere. So if you’re looking for quality espresso and poetry readings, you may want to head elsewhere.

If, however, you’re a cat lover or trying to impress a date, this café is quite enjoyable. Try to avoid going on an all-out petting assault, however. The cats sometimes get stressed out when they are encircled by groups of screaming students (then again, so do I), but they will enjoy the calm that comes from a human not beating them about the head with a toy mouse.

There is a minimu m order of W6,000, but 2 americanos more than covers that. You might even get a free pancake with your order. This is also a great place to pick up those hard-to-find cat supplies.

The Cat’s Meow is located across from Megabox Theatre and right next to Starbucks in Seongnam-dong. Look for the pink sign and head downstairs.

010-7676-1032

Getting There

66 | 10 Magazine January 2011

A e K yo n Ca f e 애견카페

When you walk through the doors of the cafe, you are immediately hit with a bone-jarring cacophony of barks. Dogs will run to the door to greet you and follow you to your table. It may be a shock at first, but it is a friendly greeting, and your new furry friends will guide you to an open table and introduce themselves as cheerful canines generally tend to do.

The interior at the Ae Kyon Cafe has a dated vinyl design that may be too retro for your liking, but the coffee is good. The dogs are friendly but frequently curious about you and what you have on your table. This can be a bit annoying, as you may find a furry head gulping down your drink if you aren’t watching closely.

The minimum-order policy here is more relaxed, only requiring that you place some sort of order. Although you won’t get a free pancake, the coffee here is much better than at the Cat’s Meow.

G e t t i n g T h e r e Start in front of the Angel-in-us coffee shop in the CGV building in Seongnamdong and head left and down toward the outdoor stalls selling clothes. Take a right at the Nolbu restaurant and look up. You’ll find it on the second floor above a shop called “Time.”

052-246-0905

GYEONGSANG CALENDAR e ditor’ s pick

Through February 27th Off the Wall Fifteen exhibitors will have approximately 32 paintings and 18 sculptures on display to illustrate the versatility of clay and architecture.

Clayarch Kimhae Museum in Gimhae. clayarch.org 055-340-7004 Play Museum Explore the history of human intelligence and participate in creative and fun games that will help your kids (and you!) hone and develop mental skills. Gimhae Arts and Sports Center. 10 am - 6 pm. Closed on February 2 - 3. Adults W10,000, children W12,000. gasc.or.kr 055-320-1234 Trick Art Exhibit Daegu Escape from sharks that burst from the picture frame or hold the hand of a painted ballerina!

Experience entertaining 3D versions of famous artwork and take pictures that have to be seen to be believed. The exhibit is being held at multiple venues throughout Korea. Through February 20th: Daegu, EXCO. Through February 27th: Busan MBC Special Trick Art Museum. mbctrickart.com 02-789-0011 Through February 28th Jeju Folk Paintings Exhibition Dong-A University Museum in Busan. museum.donga.ac.kr 051-200-8493 Through March 1st Magic Art Become a part of artwork in this exhibition that makes paintings interactive and fun for the whole family.

Busan Exhibition & Convention Center (BEXCO) 3-A Hall. 10 am - 10 pm.

W12,000. knnart.com 051-740-8888

Theater & Dance

January 7th - 8th Aida: The Opera Giuseppe Verdi’s classic opera transports you back thousands of years to the Egypt of the pharaohs. Hyundai Arts Center in Ulsan, Fri 8 pm, Sat 7pm, W20,000 - W 55,000. hhiarts.co.kr 052-202-6300 January 8th - 9th The Three Little Pigs: Kids’ Musical Watch as the big bad wolf tries to huff and puff his way through the walls (Korean). Gumi Art Center. Sat 11 am, 2 & 4 pm. Sun 2 & 4 pm. Adults W20,000, students W12,000. gumiart.or.kr 1588-3828 January 15th - 16th The Little Lion King: Family Musical Korean language. Busan Citizen’s Hall, Sat 11 am, 2 pm, 4 pm, Sun 1 pm, 5 pm, W20,000. citizenhall.busan.kr 080-071-1212 January 15th - 16th and 22nd - 23rd Peter Pan: Musical for Children Take your children to explore Neverland and its magical inhabitants (Korean).

1/15 - 1/16: Gimhae Arts and Sports Center. Sat 11 am & 2 pm & 4 pm, Sun 11 am & 2 pm. W25,000. gasc.or.kr 055-320-1234. 1/22 - 1/23: KBS Busan.

11 am & 2:30 pm. W33,000 - W55,000. wsmi.co.kr 1600-1716

Concerts Ongoing Korean Music and Dance Performances every Saturday at the National Center for the Korean Traditional Performing Arts in Busan (National Gugak Center in Busan). W6,000 - W8,000. ncktpab.go.kr 051-811-0040

Steve McCurry Photo Exhibition January 13th – March 10th

Exhibition

“The Afghan Girl”—most people are familiar with this internationally famous photograph of a young girl, red scarf draped loosely over a weathered face containing the most piercing set of seagreen eyes to grace the cover of National Geographic. The photo was taken by Steve McCurry, one of America’s preeminent photojournalists. The fact that McCurry rarely has control over the lighting or other aspects of his mise-en-scene makes the aesthetic and technical perfection of his photos all the more impressive. Previously displayed at the Sejong Center in Seoul, the exhibit now opens at the 3.15 Art Center in Masanhoewon-gu, Changwon. 10 am.

Closed Mon. Adults W6,000. 315art.net 055-286-0315

January 1st The Vocalist Concert Bobby Kim, Wheesung, and Gummy—the powerful voices of these singers are united to tell an inspiring story at this concert. BEXCO (Busan Exposition and Convention Center). 7pm. W66,000 - W110,000. bexco.co.kr 1599-2535

Jump In its second decade, this popular martial arts comic show shows no signs of slowing. IBK Jump Theater in the basement of the Haeundae Grand Hotel. Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun and holidays 3 & 6 pm. W40,000 - W50,000. hijump.co.kr 051-744-4885

January 8th - 9th Brown Eyed Soul Concert This R&B group has never appeared on TV before so try to catch them live and experience their soulful and unique music, which draws upon the genres of R&B, soul and Korean ballads. BEXCO (Busan Exposition and Convention Center). Sat 7 pm, Sun 5 pm. W55,000 - W110,000. bexco.co.kr 051-740-7320

Through January 2nd Broadway 42nd Street Musical This famous musical is based on the life of charismatic Broadway director Julian Walsh (Korean). Seongsan Art Hall in Changwon. W66,000 - W110,000. sungsanart.or.kr, 055-268-7900

January 15th New Year’s Concert with Nan-sae Geum The Eurasian Orchestra joins noted Korean conductor Nan-sae Geum for a program including Rachmaninov’s Concerto for Piano No. 2 in c minor Op. 18 and Tchaikovsky’s Symphony No. 5 in

10 Magazine January 2011 | 67

GYEONGSANG

Ongoing The Ballerina Who Fell in Love with a B-Boy This b-boy-meets-ballerina story is a genre-bending mash-up of break dance and ballet. Seomyeon BB Theater in Busan. Mon - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun 3 & 6 pm. W40,000 - W50,000. bbtheater.co.kr 051-804-2252

Phantom of the Opera: The Musical Watch the longest-running musical in Broadway history (in Korean). Keimyung Art Center in Daegu. Weekdays 8 pm, Sat 3 & 8 pm, Sun 2 & 7 pm. Closed Mon. W50,000 - W140,000. kmuartcenter.kr 053-762-0000

Unguarded Moment New York City, USA, 1994

Through February 23th “Special Story” Exhibit Visitors are introduced to contemporary art through the work of 17 artists who have been active at Cat Studio for between six months and a year. The various pieces on display are arranged to tell a story.

Cyan Museum in Yeongcheon, east of Daegu. 10:30 am – 5:30 pm, Closed Mon. cyanmuseum.org 054-338-9391

Ship Breaking Yard near Karachi, Pakistan1985

Art

GYEONGSANG CALENDAR discov er y

e minor Op. 64. 3-15 Art Center in Changwon. 7 pm. W15,000 - W50,000.

315art.net 055-286-0315 January 15th - 16th Seung-hun Shin’s 20th Anniversary Concert Listen to one of the most important pop singers in the South Korean music scene today. Seongsan Art Hall in Changwon. Sat 7:30 pm, Sun 5 pm. W77,000 - W99,000. sungsanart.or.kr 1544-1555 January 16th

World Music Blossoms in Sound Garden Can you feel the sound?

That’s the slogan of Jinju’s funkiest bar Sound Garden, and it indicates just how seriously owner Lee In-il takes his music.

Lee opened Sound Garden in 2005. When asked about the name, he laughs and says, “It took me maybe only 10 minutes to come up with the perfect name for my bar. I wanted it to immediately be associated with music.” He goes on to explain that he sees it as a “garden” of world music, where Koreans and foreigners can find, exchange, and “cultivate” the very best of it.

The songs blasting from Sound Garden’s speakers will please just about anyone who walks in looking for a good time and memorable musical moments. Lee has one of the most diverse and eclectic collections of world music you’ll ever see, and he seems to keep it all at the bar. From Brazilian popular music (MPB) and bossa nova to groovy Turkish beats and even good old (and new) hip hop and R&B, this bar may just blow your mind.

Shelves packed with DVDs and CDs and a computer with a giant screen help decorate Lee’s garden, along with highly creative décor. In fact, with so many interesting paintings, framed posters, colorful non-matching chairs and tables, and some pretty unconventional chandeliers, the whole place is rather like one huge and exotic work of art. Your eyes (not to mention your ears) will find plenty to feast on when you visit Sound Garden.

Other Re asons to Go

• Staff speak English • Live music on special nights • Imported beers, wines and a huge variety of cocktails and shots • Good appetizers (no food menu, though) • The perfect excuse to visit this city in south Gyeongsang Province Getting There

First, head to Jinju, west of Busan. The bar is located near the back entrance of Gyeongsang National University (GNU) on the 2nd floor right by a Family Mart. Look up for the bar’s huge sign. soundgarden.cyworld.com 055-753-2248 Words by Agatha Maia and shots courtesy of Sound Garden

68 | 10 Magazine January 2011

Family & Community Through January 9th Busan Port Lighting Festival Taking place all over Busan. lightingbusan.org 051-231-2535 Through January 30th Ice Sculpture World Festival Chill out in three glacial places. There’s Ice World with ice sculptures and even a 15-metertall ice castle. Next, there’s Snow of the World, with snow figures and igloos.

Last, there’s Winter World, where you can go sledding or check out the snow flowers. Bugok Hawaii in Changnyeonggun. bugokhawaii.co.kr 053-650-6020 Through February 6th Pororo World in Busan Fourteen different areas for children to enjoy.

There are toy lands, boating regions, performances and much more. Busan BEXCO 2-B. 10 am - 7 pm. W10,000 - W13,000. pororoworld.com 1588-5716

Vienna Boys Choir New Year’s Concert Dating back to the Middle Ages, the Viennese Court boys’ choir gave birth to its contemporary musical child—the Vienna Boys’ Choir. In its modern conception, it consists of trebles and altos. Still known as one of the best boys’ choirs in the world, the members are recruited from many countries and tour year round. Busan Cultural Center. 5 pm. W30,000 W100,000. culture.busan.go.kr 051-120 January 18th Busan-Fukuoka Concert The Program includes L. Berstein’s Overture to Candide, F. Mendelssohn’s Violin Concerto in e minor op. 64 and Liu Tieshan and Mao Yuan’s Dance of Yao People. Busan Cultural Center. 7:30 pm.

W5,000 - W10,000. culture.busan.go.kr 051-607-3111.

January 22nd

Super Kids Land Kids go wild in a convention center converted into a play palace offering ball zones, slides, bouncers, and bumper cars. EXCO (Daegu Exhibition and Convention Center). 10 am - 6 pm, W12,000. exco2011.com 053-601-6888 Through March 1st Happy Winter Festival Children and parents can stay out of the cold and enjoy a wide range of rides and other games held inside CECO (Changwon Exhibition Convention Center), 10 am - 7 pm, W10,000 - W15,000. hfestival.co.kr 1588-4648 December 31st – January 1st Ganjeolgot New Year’s Festival Visitors at Ganjeolgot, a picturesque promontory near Ulsan, get the first glimpse of the rising sun each morning throughout the continent of Asia. Be the first to welcome in the New Year by being there. ganjeolgot.ulsan.go.kr 052-229-7642 New Year Festival in Busan There will be a variety of events and activities as you prepare for the first sunrise of the new year. Yongdusan Park in the Haeundae Beach area. english.busan.go.kr 051-888-3396 January 7th - 9th Wedding Fair Dresses, photographs, utensils, and everything that a newly engaged couple needs to begin their new lives together (except for a counselor).

BEXCO. idreamkorea.co.kr 051-862-8810

Education & Conferences

2AM Concert This popular boy band is under the same JYP Entertainment management as 2PM, Wonder Girls, and Miss A. EXCO (Daegu Exhibition and Convention Center). 7 pm. W66,000 - W99,000. excodaegu.co.kr 053-601-5000 Seung-chul Lee Concert Before going solo, this singer was the main vocalist for the famous South Korean rock band Boohwal. His 7th album won him the Korean Music Award for best male singer. Pohang Gymnasium. 7 pm.

W66,000 - W99,000. 1577-3850 January 24th - 25th Violin Family Story Busan Cultural Center. 10 am, 3:30 pm. W1,000. culture.busan.go.kr 051-607-3111

Through February 20th Flour! Exhibition for Children It’s not just for baking anymore, folks. At this exhibit, flour can be walked through, drawn with, kneaded, and more. Daegu Gyeongbuk Design Center. W15,000. dgdc.or.kr 1566-1360 Through February 27th IQ Museum IQ games and interactive fun can help develop your children’s (and your) mental skills. Gimhae Arts and Sports Center. 10 am - 6 pm. Adults W10,000, Children W12,000. gasc.or.kr 1544-9022 January 20th - 23rd Busan International Kids Edu-Fair Products and promotions for parents trying to figure out how to get their kids educated. BEXCO (Busan Exposition and Convention Center). 10 am - 6 pm.

W5,000. idreamkorea.co.kr/edufair 051-552-9649

GYEONGSANG directory Club Metal Boys Gyeongju cafe.daum.net/metalboys 011-9599-8370

Bars/Lounges/Pubs

Gyeongsang PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance Busan Foundation for Int’l Activities bfia.or.kr 051-898-3740, 051-865-0133 Geoje Foreign Resident Association gfra.net 055-687-9332 Ulsan Global Center 052-229-2810 Ulsan Online ulsanonline.com

Education Ayurveda Yoga Academy Certification course for would-be yoga teachers in Daegu. Sat 10 am – 7 pm.

Call Yatren at 011-9547-5181 Yoga Classes Each 1st and 3rd Sunday from 12:30 – 1:30 pm. Buy the Book Cafe in Daegu. megan.deutsch@gmail. com 010-7794-1218

Hotels/Accommodations 4 – 5 Star Hotels Busan Lotte Hotel 051-810-1000 Novotel Ambassador 051-743-1234 Seacloud 051-933-1000 Daegu Novotel Ambassador 053-664-1101 Hostels Busan Arpina 051-740-3228 Zen Backpackers 010-8722-1530

Busan Station.

051-581-4050 Sunset Lounge American Drinks, Western food and fun delivered next to Haeundae.

051-742-2959 Daegu Berkeley Italian Hof Street. 053-4218577 Buy the Book Western This bookstore and café is your source for free yoga, theater, and parties. Downtown Daegu. Open weekends. buythebookcafe@yahoo.com Café Francesco Italian Italian cuisine and good coffee. Near Rodeo Street.

053-252-9625 Dijon French Up-market French and Mediterranean cuisine. 053-422-2426 Hami Mami’s American One of Daegu’s best brunches. 50m from the US base.

8 am – 10 pm.

053-475-5242

Restaurants

Religious Services Baekangro Church Busan 051-898-3740 Bujeon Church Busan 051-807-3331 Catholic Center Busan bccenter.or.kr 051-441-6403 Hongbeopsa Temple 051-508-3470 Busan busanbuddhism.com/hannarae Hosanna Church Busan hosanna21.com 051-209-0191 Podowon Church Busan 051-333-3736 Shipyungro Church Busan spr.or.kr 051-220-0200 Sooyeongno Church Busan 051-740-4500 Pusan University of Foreign Studies Busan 051-640-3445 Islamic Mosque Busan busanislam.or.kr 051-518-9991 Okpo Joonang Presbyterian Geoje Island 010-2586-7520, 010-3873-1652 Sumgim Presbyterian Church Geoje Island sumgim.org 017-577-3096

Clubs

Radio TBS eFM Busan FM 90.5 US Armed Forces Network Jinhae AM 1512 / FM 88.5 Daegu AM 1080 / FM 88.5 Pohang AM 1512 Waegwan AM 1080 / FM 88.5

Busan Aligote Wines, cheese platters, and excellent service. Haeundae. 6 pm – 3 am. aligote-busan.com 051-731-3322 Basement Open mic nights on Tuesdays and parties galore.

011-9294-2391 Fuzzy Navel Great drinks and great Mexican food as well. 011-1757-6349 The HQ Bar Kyungsung’s only foreignerowned bar with sports and dart games. busankart@yahoo.com Rock ‘n’ Roll House Western-style bar with darts and pool and a great view of Haeundae.

051-742-5553 Sosa Bar A cozy latin bar close to Pusan National University.

051-513-0070 Daegu Ping Bar Great drinks, a pool table, and music upon request. Samdeok Catholic Church. 7 pm - 5 am. withhyk@hanmail.net 053-422-7708 Jinju Soundgarden Behind Gyeongsang National University. soundgarden. cyworld.com, zakkie@hanmail.net 055-753-2248, 010-6478-2248 (owner)

boast a live band and/or DJs. Haeundae. neostarface.com 051-746-1746 Vinyl Underground Delivers fresh breaks, house, funk, electro, tech house, hip hop. B2 Han La Building.

9 pm - 6 am.

051-628-0223

2nd Floor Restaurant 3rd Floor Sports Lounge

Daegu Club That Located on the rodeo just down from the Samdok fire station. clubthat.co.kr 053-427-7171 Old Skool Hip hop bar great for dancing, socializing or drinking. “Old SkooL: Daegu Muzik Club Bar” on Facebook.

Busan Elune Lots of international acts. Paradise Hotel 010-5525-4055 Maktum Club dancing, events, launching shows, sports parties. 9 pm – 6 am. maktum.co.kr 051-742-0770 NEO Starface “Latin Club” Free salsa classes weekdays from 8 pm. Saturdays

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Busan Ganga Indian Opposite Haeundae Beach. ganga.co.kr 051-740-6670

Gecko’s Western Perched on lovely Haeundae Beach at the Pale de CZ, you can get all of that authentic Western food you’re used to back home, and you’ll find bartenders who know how to mix a real margarita.

051-747-3069 Kebabistan Russian Uzbeki restaurant serving kebabs, soups and stews.

GYEONGSANG

053-423-4048 The Holy Grill Western Owned and operated by Canadians, the Grill provides expats with fantastic sandwiches, burgers, Tex-Mex and breakfast in a chilled-out environment that feels more like a lounge than a burger joint. Move up to the 3rd floor to catch major sporting events.

053-423-4048 Leo Chow Mexican A decent selection of burritos and tacos.

053-255-7111 Maya Indian Gyeongbuk University.

053-214-1916 Samarkland Russian Daegu station.

053-252-4021 Siji Taco Mexican Spicy tacos at competitive prices 053-791-5050 South St. Western Philly cheesesteaks and cold cuts in Suseong-gu. blog. naver.com/southst105 053-768-7867 Gumi Waegook Cook American Gumi’s original foreign-owned and operated restaurant, serving steaks, hamburgers, seafood, pastas, and German cuisine. waegookcook.com 054-444-3775

Live Music Venues Club Interplay Busan cafe.daum.net/ interplaycafe 051-517-4773 Club Heavy Daegu cafe.daum.net/ clubheavy96 010-2338-1340

10 Magazine January 2011 | 69

JEJU CALENDAR

DIS C OVERY

Winter Hiking on Mt. Halla Contrary to popular belief, the best time to hike Mt. Halla is not in the spring when the azaleas are in bloom.

According to Jeju locals, the most spectacular scenery appears when snow, wind and ice transform Jeju’s legendary volcano into a winter wonderland. But the elements that make the hike so impressive in the winter also make it more challenging.

Here are four tips you should know before you go.

1. Get an early start All visitors are required to finish hiking before sunset. If you don’t make it to designated control points by noon, you won’t be allowed to continue.

2. Layer up The weather on Hallasan can change quickly and drastically. Be ready for temperatures ranging from pleasantly warm to frigidly cold – and don’t forget your sunscreen.

3. Take snack breaks You can bring your own food and water, or do as the Koreans do, and stop for noodles at the Witsae-

Art Through January 30th “Landscape Paintings, Recomposed” Exhibit As digital technology continues to blur the boundary between what is real and what is imaginary, the concept of landscape paintings changes. Jeju Museum of Art. 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. jmoa.jeju.go.kr 061-710-4300 Through February 28th Traditional Food Culture of Jeju Island Jeju Folklore and Natural History Museum. 8:30 am – 6:30 pm. Adults W1,100, children W500. 064-710-7708.

JEJU ISLAND

January 12th - 16th Exhibit by the Tamna Calligraphy Culture Society Jeju Culture and Art Center. jejuculture.or.kr 011-9660-0880

Performances

Nanta Nanta, the non-verbal performance that got started ten years ago, is a feast

70 | 10 Magazine January 2011

for the ears that turns ordinary kitchen pots and pans into a rhythm section. Jeju Media Center in Jeju City (064-727-7800).

90 min. Sun 8 pm, Tue – Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 pm, 8 pm. W40,000 - W50,000. nanta.i-pmc.co.kr 1544-1555 January 20th Jeju Youth Orcherstra Playing Rimky Korsakov’s symphonic suite Scheherazade. Jeju Culture and Art Center. 7:30 pm. Adults W5,000, students W3,000. jejuculture.or.kr 064-721-2588.

Family & Community Ongoing Jeju Open Mic Jeju expats get their creative juices flowing at this event typically held once a month. Located at Haebyun Concert near the airport. “Jeju Open Mic” group on Facebook. frank_the_cowboy@hotmail.com December 31st – January 1st Seongsan Sunrise Festival Enjoy the 18th occasion of this annual event by greeting the new year with the rising sun at Seongsan Ilchulbong “Sunrise Peak” in Jeju.

Held at one of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites, this is a spectacle not to be missed as natives and tourists come together for this unforgettable experience. All day. Free. culture.jeju.go.kr 064-760-4221 January 5th - 9th Seogwipo Winter Penguin Swimming Competition Although swimming in wintry weather is referred to in the West as a “polar bear plunge,” entrants in this Jeju competition earn the moniker of “penguin.” Jungmun Saekdal Beach in Seogwipo. seogwipo.go.kr 064-760-2663

oreum or Jindallaebat shelters and fill up your water bottle at one of the springs along the trail.

4. Check the conditions During the height of winter, crampons (snow spikes) are often necessary for the trek. Don’t worry if you don’t have them. They can be purchased at the visitor center for about W5,000.

R e c o mm e n d e d R o u t e s

Summit Route (8+ hours) Take Seongpanak (9.6km) up and

Gwaneumsa (8.7km) down. Seongpanak is slightly longer than Gwaneumsa, but less strenuous and the trailhead is easier to find.

To get there, take the 5.16 bus and get off at the Seongpanak stop.

To get back, take a taxi to the 5.16 road and catch the bus.

Scenic Route (5+ hours) If you don’t feel compelled to hike to the top, take Yeongsil (3.7km) up to the Witsae-oreum shelter and Eorimok (6.8km) down. For 25,000 won, you can get a cab from Jungmun to the Yeongsil upper parking lot. To get back, walk 10 minutes to the Eorimok bus stop.

Words by A ngela Jacobus and shot by Br i a n M i ller

JEJU ISLAND

Dom Jang Japanese. Spectacular sushi in several locations all over the island.

The best atmosphere is in Jungmun.

064-738-2550

Religious Services Jeju Anglican/Episcopal Church Sinjeju 010-2500-6780

Classes Woodcarving and Engraving Workshop Jeju Museum of Art. Weekdays 10 – 11:30 am, 2 – 3:30 pm; weekends 10 – 11:30 am, 2 – 4 pm.

Hotels/Accommodations Hotel Lotte Jeju 5-Star 064-731-1000 Jeju Hiking Inn Hostel hikinginn.com 064-763-2380

Medical Services Dr. Chung’s Pediatric Clinic chung56@pednet.co.kr 064-748-1546 Hanna Women’s Clinic hannaobgy.com 064-711-7717 E-Pyeonhan Dental Clinic e-pretty.co.kr 064-758-2800

Radio Arirang Radio Jeju City: FM 88.7 Seogwipo: FM 88.1

Restaurants Bagdad Cafe Indian. Delicious, authentic Indian food made from local ingredients in a gorgeous atmosphere. Near City Hall in Jeju City 064-757-8182

Island Gecko’s Western. A varied menu of terrific Western food, plus maybe the best cocktails and service on the island.

The BBQ nights every weekend will blow you away with ribeye steak, sausages, and more for only W19,000. Jungmun.

064-739-0845 geckosterrace.com The Plate This modern bistro serves up a great American-style hamburger along with other Thai dishes. 064-746-8008 Zapata’s Mexican. Find it behind Burger King near City Hall in Jeju City.

064-722-3369

Bars/Lounges/Pubs Boris Brewery Bull’s Darts Bar Modern Time

064-726-4141 064-759-5559 064-748-4180

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NETWORKING CALENDAR E dited by so n g l e e

Thursday, January 6th SIWA Newcomers’ Meeting A great chance to learn a little bit about the Seoul International Women’s Association and make new friends. Held at the Seoul Club at 10 am. W8,000. siwapage.com Thursday, January 13th BASS Catch-up Coffee Join the British Association of Seoul for a casual coffee (with skimmed and low-fat milk, of course, to compensate for holiday excess) to chat with old and new friends. The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, Itaewon. 10 am. britishseoul.com Tuesday, January 18th Ice Skating at Banyan Tree Club & Spa Experience a winter fairy tale right in the heart of the city at the Banyan Tree Club & Spa’s pool, which has been transformed into an ice skating rink. The club is offering SIWA members a special price and you will even be treated to a nice cup of hot chocolate!

Register in ad vance. Banyan Tree Club and Spa, Seoul. 10 am till approx. 12 pm.

W25,000. Non-members W30,000. siwapage. com Wednesday, January 19th SIWA Coffee Morning Don’t miss this chance to enjoy coffee with the SIWA ladies and sign up for fantastic classes provided by SIWA throughout spring 2011. Grand Ambassador Hotel. 9:30 am.

W14,000. Non-members W19,000. siwapage. com Thursday, January 20th Solo Exhibition: “37 Degrees North” Come discover talent and share your passion for art with SIWA current president Lily Joenoes van Bunnik at her first solo exhibition. Lily’s works tell the story of her life in Seoul as a foreigner, a mother and a student of Korea. Influenced by French fauvism, she uses strong color in her works.

Insa Ar t Center (Anguk Stn., line 3, exit 6). 10 am. Free. Non-members W5,000. siwapage.com

Saturday, January 22nd “The Holidays Are Over!” AWC Social Come enjoy a casual night out with good food and music by a live band. RSVP by January 15th. Visit the website for info on how to RSVP. 6 pm. Big Rock Brewery near Gangnam Stn. (line 2, exit 7). W22,000. awcseoul.org “La Vie En Rose” AFC Charity Gala French sp eaker s may want to consider at tending this charit y gala organized by L’association des Francophones en Corée.

The entire gala and raf fle profits will be donated to the Seoul Shelter for Women.

Seoul Grand Hyatt. 7:30 pm. W180,000.

Non -members W200,000. afc - online.org. laetitia.rolland.dlt@gmail.com Monday, January 24th – Tuesday, January 25th Overnight Ski Trip to Muju Resort Join the SIWA ladies for a visit to Muju Resort, well known for its globally recognized winter sports facilities and widely acclaimed by ski and snowboard exper ts. The SIWA group will leave Seoul early in the morning to arrive in Muju in time for afternoon skiing and will come back the evening of the next day after a full day on the slopes. W175,000, non - member s W18 0,0 0 0 (includes bus transportation, hotel accommodation and breakfast. siwapage.com Tuesday, January 25th BASS 2011 AGM Join BASS to welcome in the new 2011 commit tee along with raising a toast to last year’s commit tee for all their hard work. There will be an update on the BASS charities, the treasurer’s report and words from the president who will be stepping down after two years of sterling work. W10,000.

Non-members W14,000. 9:30 am. Grand Hilton Conference Center. britishseoul.com

Saturday, February 19th

AMCHAM Inaugural Ball Last year, the American Chamber of Commerce’s inaugural ball had the t h e m e o f H o ll y w o o d, but in 2011, the scene shifts from the West Coast to the East Coast. New York City is the backdrop for this elaborate ball, which gives you the chance to put on your best tux or dress and get ready for some high-class enter tainment. Grand Hyat t Seoul, Grand Ballroom. 6:30 pm. W275,000 for seats, W2,750,000 per table. RSVP

by February 1st. Due to the popularity of the event, only a limited number of individual seats are available. www.amchamkorea.org 02-6201-2200 AFC Association Des Francophones

De Coree amcham American Chamber of Commerce AWC American Women’s Club BASS British Association of Seoul SIWA Seoul International Women’s

Association

Thursday, January 27th Korean Sauna Visit It’s the time of year when everybody has had enough of the long freezing winter and is understandably feeling rundown and needs to recharge their batteries. Meet the SIWA ladies at Dragon Hill Spa to enjoy a veritable labyrinth of endless steam rooms, saunas and salt rooms. Yongsan Dragon Hill Spa. 10 am. W10,000 (scrub and massage services not included). siwapage.com

To list your event, contact David Carruth at calendar@10magazine.asia or 02-3447-1610

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10 Magazine January 2011 | 71

NETWORKING CALENDAR

Friday, January 21st AWC Coffee Morning Become healthier in 2011 by attending this AWC coffee morning. The guest speaker Dr. Raimund Royer, doctor at the Jaseng Hospital of Oriental Medicine, will share his expertise on how you can improve your health using an interesting combination of Eastern and

Western medicine. Hillside Residence near Hannam Bridge. 9:30 am. W12,000. Nonmembers W15,000. awcseoul.org

What’s My Age Again?

Words by A dam Boot h e , I llustration by Pat r ick Volz

W

elcome to 2011.

Don’t go popping the champagne just yet. There is some bad news. You are all officially one year older.

You don’t get a party. No cake. No free grand slam at Denny’s. Hell, there isn’t even a Denny’s here.

No, I am not talking metaphorically here, like “Let’s all reflect on the past year of our lives. We are older, but wiser. Sunrise, sunset. Circle of life, Simba.” I mean, literally, you are all one year older than you were December 31st.

You might not feel a year older because there’s a difference between Korean age and international age. The term “international age” might be a little confusing to you. You probably know it by the more familiar term used in the rest of the world: counting. In Korea, age is just a number, plus 2 (well, it might just be plus 1 depending on the birth month and the time of year).

Simple enough, right?

According to this confusing aging system, a person is a year old when they are born. I assume this is just rounding up from the gestation period. Probably, being cramped in there for nine months feels more like a year. Then, at the stroke of midnight on New Year’s Day, everyone adds a year. So, basically, if a baby is born on the morning of December 31st, it will be two years old the next day. Wow, they really do grow up so fast.

At first glance, this seems to make no sense, but I understand.

I understand what it means to desperately cling to a ridiculous counting system. I’m a five-foot-seven-inch American, not a 1.7272-meter American. Who am I to judge someone for sticking to a ridiculous number system?

We were introduced to the metric system with its perfectly

orchestrated system of tens and moving decimals to change the mysteries of math into a beautiful and simple work of art. We thought about it and decided, “Nah, pass. We are going to ride out this gallons and yards stuff.”

We are fine with the rest of the world creating conversion charts to suit us. Hell, I even have a web page bookmarked so I can figure out if I should wear pants when it is 20 degrees Celsius. I don’t know, it sounds pretty cold.

Koreans don’t seem to be budging either. Sure, Burger King and “Paris Hilton’s My BFF” they let in, but they keep out the international age-counting system. I have to go through my life asking people annoying questions like “Yeah, but how many feet is that?” That is my cross to bear. Likewise, Koreans will always have to ask if someone means Korean age or international age.

We could all change, but why bother? Annoying others is always much easier than personal growth.

I guess it all goes back to society’s collectivism. Aging together can have some benefits. It is slightly less depressing when we all turn thirty at the same time, but it somehow ruins the New Year’s Eve party.

Then again, I don’t mind getting older in Korea, since it just means I get more respect. Look here, sonny, you still have a full head of hair. What could you possibly understand about life? It’s probably best for you to just zip it and do what I say. That separation, that social distance between ages is a wonderful thing. It helps me avoid mingling with younger folks. And honestly, what am I really losing? I don’t even know what 22-year-olds think about. Justin Bieber and iPhones, I guess.

Suddenly, getting older isn’t so bad.

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