10 Magazine March 2011

Art • Theater • Concerts • Film • Community • Fitness • Dine & Drink • Nightlife • TRAVEL

Korea awaits! • March 2011 VOL. 3 NO. 6

외국인의 한국생활 노하우

Kick the Kimchi out of Em! Martial Arts in Korea

Printed using 100% soy ink.

311 Great Things to Do in Our Calendar!

march 2011 vol. 3 No. 6 39 Far East Movement in Concert

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Blog of the Month: Footman’s Frothings

Niels Footman is your go-to source for Korean social media.

Hip-hop group FM brings Asian pride to the stage.

40 Movie Reviews

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The Town

10 Questions with Christian Schneider

Take to the air with the head of Lufthansa’s Korean operations.

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43 Cracking the QR Code

The Two Busans

Take a look at Westerners’ first encounter with Busan (or is it Fusan?).

Confucius and Korea

Get the scoop from fashion insider Chad Burton.

61 A Day at the Races

N ik i a N o e l Shot by dy l a n go ld by

Odeng: Fish Cake

28 Martial Arts of Korea

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Move past the ninja movie stereotypes and uncover the secrets of three major Korean martial arts.

Expats on the Run

Charming starters and middling mains.

47 Seoul Fashion Show

Go behind the scenes with 10’s intrepid philosophical investigator.

A Japanese name, a Korean dish, and a bowl full of yum.

Helping you make sense of those random dots and lines.

44 Restaurant Review: Seoul Bistro

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Paul Matthews delivers the goods on The Town, The Green Hornet, and more.

Get back into your running regimen with these useful tips.

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Gwacheon’s horse races may put you in a betting mood.

66 Taejongdae’s Spectacular Seascape

Palace Intrigue

Head up to the lighthouse for a great ocean view.

72 FYI for FOB

Samsung-gung is the coolest palace you’ve never heard of.

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Sri Lanka’s New Groove With the war over, tourism kicks into high gear.

Been there, done that. Save your breath, n00bz!

Maksim Mrvica

B e lin da

For information about performances by Eagles, Ne-yo, Maksim Mrvica, MGMT, Slash, and the Leipzig Gewandhaus Orchestra, see the Seoul calendar on p. 50.

Focused Like a Laser Beam

I

t still happens from time to time. Someone suggests, “10 should write a review of [insert event name here].” Or perhaps they’ll say, “Did you hear about [event X]? It was such a blast! You should totally put an article in about it.” That’s when I know I’m talking to someone who is not a regular reader of 10 or worse yet, has us mixed up with some other English magazine in Korea. (I hate it when people do that.) Anyone who reads 10 regularly knows that we’re about one thing and one thing only.

Fun.

Not pictures of fun that other people had and you missed, however. Not about bands you could have seen if you had only known they were coming. Not about reviews of DJs you can’t see or festivals you won’t be able to enjoy for another 11 and a half months.

We’re talking about something much more focused than that.

Your fun.

Our writers offer you the insight to actively participate in this country - whether you’re an English speaker or Korean speaker, we deliver enjoyable things to do all over the peninsula - from Robert Neff’s amazing Korean History photography and articles to W Hotel Executive Chef Ciaran Hickey’s A Taste of Korea to Joe McPherson’s ongoing investigation into Foodie Finds. And since 10 is for foreigners and internationally-minded Koreans, we’re all dreaming about our next vacation, so we often like to share a fabulous Asian Destination. Thanks to our devoted contributors from

other areas of the country we have plenty of regional Discoveries and Foodie Finds to give you a reason to take advantage of Korea’s spectacular national public transportation system or hit up that car rental agency no matter where you are. There are advantages to living in a small country sometimes.

But most importantly, and what separates our magazine from all the others, is our dedicated staff and interns who work diligently every month to scour the nation for fun things to do. Our Calendar section is full of events all over the country for you to participate in, from art exhibitions to concerts, conferences to festivals, sporting events to parties. And why do they work so hard? Because both our Korean and expat staff and interns want to help realize 10 Magazine’s mission and raison d’etre: Your fun this month.

So please don’t let our work go to waste. Turn the page and get your Korean adventure started - this month and every month with 10 Magazine.

St e p h e n R e v e r e M anaging E ditor

A Shot of Korean by Stephen Revere

거시기 [geo-shi-gi] : thingamajig / whatchamacallit This word is the most useful yet meaningless word in the Korean language. I teach it to you not for your edification, but simply to help you when you’re searching for another Korean word - and also to ensure you elicit guttural Korean laughter when using it.

This word was originally used by people with the entertaining South Jeolla Province accent, and it’s used just the same way that we use “whatchamacallit.” Over time, people have started to use it in other areas, but it’s used much more to be funny and if a waegookin says it, it’s guaranteed to bring Koreans to their knees with laughter.

You should also know that over time it has also been used to refer to a particular part of the male anatomy.

That is when someone is avoiding more vulgar language or the proper medical term anyway.

You are more likely to know the more common slang term for that: hot pepper (고추, go-chu).

저 거시기 줘요. [Jeo geo-shi-gi jweo-yo] - Give me that thingamajig over there.

Check out Survival Korean and Survival Korean: Basic Grammar Skills for more Korean lessons from 10’s Managing Editor, Stephen Revere.

4 | 10 Magazine March 2011

► Adeel Ahmad (p. 20) is from Toronto, Canada.

He has been living in Korea for three years and running for eleven. When not running, his interests include hiking, watching reruns of Frasier and eating sashimi. His blog about current events, politics and sports can be found at adeel.blogspot.com. ◄

Jay Boyle (p. 28) is an adventure-seeking Brit who is convinced adventure is hiding from him. He loves Taekwondo, photography, video games and whiskey, but rarely at the same time. He has trained in various martial arts (including Capoeira, Hapkido, and Muay Thai as well as Taekwondo) over the last twelve years. More examples of his photography are on his website: picturesbyjay.com.

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Todd Bruns (p. 22) hails from Lawrence, Kansas. He enjoys travel of all types, and has visited 25 countries worldwide (on airplanes) as well as all 25 gu of Seoul (on foot). If the option existed, he would go pro in bar touchscreen games. You can read his take on Korean life and other topics at sportsthatareright.blogspot.com.

CEO

Sang-tae Kim sangtaekim@10magazine.asia Jai-yoon Kim jaiyoonkim@10magazine.asia Stephen Revere sr@10magazine.asia David Carruth dc@10magazine.asia

Executive Editor Managing Editor Assistant Editor General Manager

Kyoung-hee Lim kl@10magazine.asia

Art Director

Hugh Lee hlee@10magazine.asia Dylan Goldby dg@10magazine.asia

Photographer Marketing Inquiries Calendar Events Contribute Comments Subscriptions

marketing@10magazine.asia calendar@10magazine.asia contribute@10magazine.asia comments@10magazine.asia subscribe@10magazine.asia

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Contributors Adeel Ahmad, Lucy Beauclair, Michael Berry, Jay Boyle, Todd Bruns, Judith Clancy, Andy Clay, Matthew Crawford, Peter DeMarco, Samantha Dix-Hill, Curtis File, Scott Hemsey, Ian Henderson, Ciaran Hickey, Angela Jacobus, Angela Lee, Grace Lee, Minjung Lee, Song Lee, Sun-kyung Lee, Mike Luedke, Stafford Lumsden, Paul Matthews, Rob McGovern, Joe McPherson, Charles Montgomery, Ji-sun Moon, Robert Neff, Conor O’Reilly, Danny O’Sullivan, Anna Orzel, David Volodzko, Patrick Volz.

Wearing martial arts gear and showing us her best high kick is cover model Gabriela Fernandez, a Chilean grad student studying in Korea.

Two other models and great martial artists, Nikia Noel and Belinda, can be seen on the contents page. All three shots were taken by 10 photographer Dylan Goldby.

Andy Clay (p. 68) is from Brighton, England, but has been living in Jeonju for the past four years. He enjoys writing, reading, coffee, travel, photography and red wine in roughly equal propor tions, spends his workdays educating young minds as to the intricacies and foibles of the English language, and in his spare time volunteers for a charity in Cambodia. He hopes you have a nice day.

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10 S ta f f S p o t l i g h t

►

Song Lee is majoring in political science but has always dreamed of becoming a musician and is currently looking for bandmates to play music with. She is also a die-hard Pittsburgh Penguins fan. Coming from Incheon, she loves the ocean, beach and seafood. She is grateful to have a chance to work with the wonderful 10 Magazine staff.

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Please Recycle This Magazine

10 Magazine March Vol. 3 No. 6

David Volodzko (p. 14) has spent a third of his life in his native home the Bahamas, a third going to school in the States where he studied philosophy and religion, and a third in various parts of East Asia—notably Japan, South Korea and China. His interests include East Asian culture, history and languages. ◄

6 | 10 Magazine March 2011

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LETTERS Forc e d to Pu t 10’s W i sd om to Wor k

I was excited about the informative article 10 Magazine did a while back on vegan and vegetarian restaurants in Seoul, and as a vegetarian I had a hard time learning and accepting that not all meat is considered “meat” in Korea. Regardless, procrastination got the best of me and I never explored the numerous restaurants reviewed but was smart enough to hold on to that edition of 10 Magazine for when I got around to it.

My vegetarian sister-in-law and her vegan friend recently visited our family in Seoul and immediately went to work finding restaurants where they wouldn’t have to guess whether the ham in the “no-meat” dish they ordered was a soy-based product or simply not considered meat. I dug out your magazine and spent the week eating delicious vegan and vegetarian food all around Seoul. Your reviews were right on target and I earned some cool points with the extended family. Thanks 10 Magazine – I appreciate the article even if it did take the vacationing vegetarians to motivate me.

Leanne Hurley, Seoul Don’t feel bad Leanne. No one could ever do everything in every issue of 10. That’s why you keep them around - because you just never know when they’re going to come in handy.

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M i s se d It by T hat M uch

I assume you guys are having problems with math (I hated math, too, but I was careful and used a calculator). There is no way in the world that Jeju Island has or ever had more than 5 million people living on it. I think it has a population of about a half million - but I could be wrong. Anyway, on page 8 you indicated that the South Korean population is currently at about 48.22 million people but then adding the figures you give for each province the grand total comes to 53 million.

Robert Neff, Seoul

Yes, Robert, apparently the numbers in our Korea by the Numbers section last month were just one little decimal place off - one which equaled about 5 million people. We should have stated that Jeju had a population of 0.53 million residents instead of our preposterous 5.3 million. Thanks very much for reminding us to be careful with our figures, and we’re sure our numbers this month will prove our impressive math skills. Oh, and thanks for your article on Korean history on page 12. It’s another great one.

10 J e j u Is l a n d

Image courtesy of Earth Observatory, NASA

Korea by the Numbers

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The percentage of South Koreans who would cheer for the North Korean team in a soccer match between North Korea and the USA (2010 data).

This was 21% in 1986.

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The percentage of South Koreans who think that North and South Korea must be reunified (2008 data). This was 58% in 1995, 48% in 1998, 22% in 2001, and 16% in 2003.

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The percentage of South Koreans who think the two countries should stay divided (2008 data). Only 17.5% of respondents felt this way in 1998.

Source: Institute for Peace and Unification Studies at Seoul National University (2011)

Subscribe today for 45% off the cover price!

W29,000 for a year • W15,000 for 6 months subscribe@10magazine.asia, 02-3447-1610, www.10mag.com 8 | 10 Magazine March 2011

Blog of the Month

Footman’s Frothings nielsfootman.com

If you think you’re up on social media trends, do you know what the most retweeted Korean tweets were this week? Englishman Niels Footman does. In his regular Top of the Tweets feature, Footman takes a look at bigname Korean twitterers such as politician Roh Hoi-chan and Doosan CEO Yongmaan Park and translates their remarks into English. And that’s just one aspect of this blog that focuses on social media in Korea.

Footman has done a lot during his f irst 8 years in Korea—including working as a magazine editor for Morning Calm, freelancing for Yonhap and CNNgo, and getting a master’s degree—but it wasn’t until last year that he started a blog. Getting involved with the Nanoomi community of bloggers inspired him to find a subject that he could specialize in. It was at this point that he decided to focus his blog on social media, which he was already researching for his PR job.

While Footman is quick to remind you that he’s not an expert (yet), he does have some big ideas about what the next few years will bring to Korea.

The wild popularity of the iPhone, he predicts, heralds a massive shift toward accessing the internet via mobile devices instead of PCs. This will put more pressure on Naver, Cyworld, and other Korean internet behemoths to compete against the likes of Google and Twitter. Whether he’s right or wrong, you’ll need to follow his blog to find out.

THE READER'S 10

What Is Your Favorite East Asian Destination?

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ny English event magazine in Korea worth its salt of course caters to its inherently internationally minded clientele.

And what do internationally minded people like to do more than travel? Hence, this month for our Reader’s 10, we asked you all to share with us your vast travel experience and let us know your favorite places to travel. We’re not sure, but we think we may have a disproportionate number of Japanese readers. But then again, it sure is a close and easy destination from Korea, which may account for some very high rankings, although it didn’t quite make #1.

sh ot by F l a s h Pa r k e r

10 Bangkok, Thailand 9 Phuket, Thailand 8 Palawan, the Philippines 7 Singapore 6 Hong Kong, China 5 Bali, Indonesia 4 Beijing, China 3 Tokyo, Japan 2 Kyoto, Japan

1 Siem Reap, Cambodia Now that we’ve found out where our readers like to spend their time abroad, we’d like to find out a little bit more about where you like spend your time in Korea – specifically, where you like to shop. The April Reader’s 10 question is:

What is your favorite place to shop in Korea?

Dongdaemun? Home Plus? Times Square? Whether it’s a market, department store or big box wholesaler, we want to know what locations you think offer the best shopping experience.

Nominations are taken through February 6th and voting happens February 7th - 13th at our NEW website - 10mag.com!

10 Magazine March 2011 | 9

sh ots by Dy l a n G o l d b y

Christian Schindler 10 Qu estions

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General Manager for Lufthansa Passenger Airlines, Korea

hile German airline Lufthansa is a giant in the European market, in Korea it faces stiff competition from domestic carriers. The man responsible for the airline’s Korean operations is Christian Schindler, a German from Kempten, Bavaria, and a twenty-year veteran of the company. In his interview with 10, Mr. Schindler shares some of the insights he has gained in his work and travels.

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10 Magazine March 2011

1. How did you first get interested in the airline business?

Even as a child I was fascinated by aircraft and flight. In school I would daydream and spend time watching them draw white lines on the blue sky above. I always wondered where they came from and where they were going. As I got older, it became my dream to get to know different places, people, businesses, religions and nations.

By joining an airline, I could become part of globalization and communication.

2. You’re here in Korea with the whole family - your wife and three children. Do you worry about their education and adjustment to life back home when you return?

It is impor tant to me and my family that our children become perfect German speakers, as well as good speakers of other languages such as English or Korean. We are very fortunate in that Seoul boasts an excellent German School. It is vital to our children’s return that they learn proper German and that they have a consistent educational experience.

3. This month, we asked readers about their favorite Asian destination. What are some of your own top picks?

One of our favorites is Jeju Island. The island has wonderful things to see and we love hiking on Hallasan. The trails along the cliffs and beaches are spectacular, and they have some amazing heuk dwaeji galbi (흑돼 지갈비 black pork ribs). Another great place to go to is Bali and Lombok in Indonesia.

Both are great islands to explore and relax.

They offer you nice beaches, interesting landscapes and a different culture with tropical warmth and nice food.

4. What leisure activities do you most enjoy here?

My family and I enjoy Korea’s many outdoor activities. In winter, we love to go skiing. Korea boasts many great ski resorts which are easily accessible from Seoul. In the summer we often go biking along the Han River or hiking in the mountains. My favorite sport remains soccer. We have a German soccer team in Seoul and I play every Saturday as captain. We are looking forward to invitations from your readers to play against their teams!

5. Prior to being assigned to Lufthansa’s operations in Korea, you worked in Morocco. How would you compare your experience in the two countries?

There are some stark differences between the two countries, but I have enjoyed both very much. Korea is a modern, advanced country which even hosted the G20 summit and it also has the highest household Internet broadband penetration in the world. Korean companies rank at the top in competitiveness in various important industrial segments, such as flat screens, mobile phones and ship-

building, just to name a few.

Morocco, on the other hand, is a developing country which mainly has a rural, agrarian lifestyle with its citizens surviving on agriculture, fishing and inbound tourism. The two markets couldn’t really be more different and therefore it has been fascinating for me to have the opportunity to work in two countries with such different customer segments.

6. Your German homeland is pretty far away. How long has Lufthansa been flying to Korea?

Lufthansa had its first passenger flight from Frankfurt to Seoul in 1984. There had been some joint cargo flights with Korean Air before then, but it wasn’t until 1984 that Lufthansa started its own f light service for both passengers and cargo.

Since our humble beginnings of one flight per week between Frankfurt and Seoul, we have gradually grown our service and now offer frequent flights from multiple destinations in both Korea and Germany.

7. In 2007, Lufthansa began service between Busan and Munich via Incheon. Not many European carriers fly out of Seoul, let alone Busan. How has this strategy worked for you?

Lufthansa thoroughly researched the potential of Busan flights before we added it into our network in 2007. We were aware that it would be a challenging route, but with the growth in trade between Europe and Korea, as well as the increased interest in Asia on the part of other Europeans, we were confident that it would be a successful route for us. Thanks to our easy connections to over 170 destinations in Europe, we have already had some level of success, and we are proud to announce that this summer we are going to be increasing from our current 3 flights per week to serving Busan daily. This is a first for any European airline.

8. Particularly on long-haul flights people enjoy having access to the Internet, and many airlines are starting to provide it in-flight. Does Lufthansa have any plans to offer broadband Internet service for Korean flights?

Lufthansa will be equipping its long-haul fleet with our FlyNet broadband Internet service over the course of 2011. With over 100 airplanes which are serving many of their markets daily, you can imagine that this is a very challenging task, but we are working hard to bring high-speed Internet to all of our long-haul flights this year.

9. Lufthansa’s iPhone app won the Smaato Mobile Advertising Award for 2010. Is this app available in Korea?

Yes, our award-winning app is now available in Korea. Mobile check-in, seat selection and up-to-the-minute flight updates have made our iPhone app one of the most useful in the industry.

And as of October 22nd of last year, Lufthansa started its mobile booking portal mobile.lufthansa.com in Korean to help our Korean customers browse and book their schedule more easily. As more and more people choose smart phones, the ability to provide better services through these phones multiplies.

10. Asia is a competitive market with some of the best airlines in the world. Do you sometimes find it hard to compete here?

As a leading European airline in Asia, we have to focus on our European network, which allows smooth connections from Asia to those previously mentioned 170 European destinations. But Lufthansa also offers many services tailored to our Asian customers. For example, Korean newspapers and audio/video entertainment offerings are available on all flights in and out of Korea, and our customers are also served by Korean flight attendants.

And all of our customers are able to enjoy delicious Korean inflight meals created by Korean Star Chef Hyonam Park. In both Frankfurt and Munich airports, our Korean Welcome Service provides Korean personnel to assist Korean travelers with their arrivals and transfers in Germany.

10 Magazine March 2011 | 11

history

The Two Busans In 1882, three courageous American officers became the first Westerners to step foot in Busan.

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hen the intrepid elderly British adventurer Isabella Bird Bishop visited Fusan (modern Busan) in January 1894, she declared, “It is not Korea but Japan which meets one on anchoring.” She was, of course, referring to the large population of Japanese that literally dominated the foreign settlement of that port, and, for the most part, the surrounding Korean community.

The Japanese had been conducting limited trade in that region since the fifteenth century, but it wasn’t until after the KoreanJapanese Treaty in 1876 that large numbers of Japanese began to settle in the region. By 1882, the Japanese settlement consisted of nearly 2,000 people living in Japanese-style homes, many of them brought over from Japan in sections. There were also a large Japanese consulate, a bank and a modern hospital, all built in the European style.

Foreigners, with the exception of the Japanese, were not allowed to visit Fusan until after the Treaty of Amity and Commerce between the United States and Korea was signed on May 22nd, 1882. Following the signing, the first Americans to visit Fusan were three naval officers: B. H. Buckingham, George C. Foulk and Walter McLean. The three men were returning to the United States through Russia and Europe and took advantage of the recent signing of the treaty to visit the port while bound for Vladivostok.

Aboard a Japanese steamship, they left Nagasaki, Japan, on June 6th and arrived at Fusan the following day. When a group of Koreans boarded the ship, the officers befriended them by speaking Japanese. Through their conversation, the officers learned that the Koreans were not averse to their going ashore and visiting their villages—provided, of course, that they had received permission from the Japanese authorities.

It was obvious that the Japanese were not going to grant them

12 10 Magazine March 2011

Words BY Robert Neff

permission; their steamship tickets were clearly stamped with the words “Passengers other than Japanese not allowed to land at Fusan and Gensan [Wonsan] in Korea.” Determined to go ashore, the three naval officers tricked a young Japanese boatman into providing them with passage in his small boat.

Once on land, the Americans immediately proceeded out of the Japanese settlement of Fusan and headed towards the Korean walled city of Pusan. Although the officers never admitted it, surely they must have felt some apprehension as they left the relative safety of the Japanese community. Japanese newspapers in 1880 reported that Americans were so despised in Fusan “that even small children are disposed to show resentment at the sight of [Americans].”

A journal account from 1891 appears to corroborate this antiAmerican sentiment. An American missionary was disturbed to discover that Korean women and children ran away whenever he approached. “It is strange to find oneself regarded as an object of terror,” he lamented.

But on this visit in 1882, the Americans were mostly well treated. Foulk recalled that “a great crowd of Koreans collected about us, evincing much curiosity in examining our persons and clothing and asking questions, but were harmless and good natured.”

The only time they encountered any hostility was when they tried to enter the fortified residence of the local official: “[The] faces of the accompanying crowd for the first time showed alarm and anger, and as we were entirely dependent upon their good nature, we contented ourselves with a good view of the interior, easily obtained over the walls from a neighboring hill.”

Unlike the Japanese, the Koreans appeared “to live in great poverty.” The Koreans dwelt in houses of the “rudest description” and “numbers of naked children, with their bodies blackened by the sun, ran here and there, and smaller babies were carried in cloths slung over the hips of the women.”

They were somewhat surprised by the number of Korean women they encountered. According to Foulk, “it is commonly report-

Entrance to Fusan port circa 1906 pictures from the collection of Robert Neff

From top: Boats in Fusan Harbor in December 1918, International children in the streets of Fusan circa 1890 - 1905

ed that Korean women are confined strictly indoors, and, therefore, rarely seen by visitors, or even by the natives themselves, out of their own homes beyond fixed hours.” Foulk concluded that this might hold true in other parts of Korea but not in the Fusan area where “Korean men treat women with much more courtesy and consideration than is common in other parts of the East.”

Foulk described the Koreans as “tall and well formed, and in general their personal appearance and manner were more likely to command the respect of foreigners than that of either the Japanese or Chinese in their original conditions.” He also made a controversial observation: “[Their] hair varied in color from black to light reddish-brown, suggesting, with the varying obliquity of the eyes, sometimes straight like those of Europeans, the intermixture of Caucasian and Mongolian races.”

Several times the officers tried to purchase goods from Koreans they encountered but were met with polite refusals. The only shops they could find were simple affairs—displays of burnished tobacco pipes and sandals in front of small buildings, and a few crude restaurants.

After their jaunt through the Korean community, the officers returned to the steamship where they undoubtedly received a well-deserved scolding from the ship’s captain. Early the following morning the ship departed for Vladivostock.

Foulk’s relationship with Korea did not end with his visit to Fusan, however. In 1883, he served as an interpreter for the Korean mission to the United States. He accompanied them when they returned to Korea, where he served as military attaché at the American legation and then as the chargé d’affaires.

10 Magazine March 2011 | 13

history

Confucius and Korea

2,500 years after his death, Master Kong’s ideas continue to shape life on the Korean peninsula.

W o r ds by Dav i d V o l o d z ko

Confucianism. The heart of Korea, some say. Since I stepped off the plane, I heard the mantra about Korea being a Confucian society, the most Confucian society, indeed the only true Confucian society, and I too fell into repeating these lines without fully grasping what Confucianism and its founder Confucius was, and is, all about.

W h o C o n f u c i u s r e a l ly wa s

So then what exactly is it all about?

Well, the first thing you should know about Confucius is that his name wasn’t “Confucius.” That’s the Latin version of his name given to us by the 17th century Italian missionary Matteo Ricci. The man we call Confucius (551 BCE - 479 BCE) was Kong Fuzi to those who knew him, or Master Kong. His Korean name, Kong-ja (공자), retains the original meaning perfectly.

The second thing you should k now about Master Kong is that he wasn’t a philosopher. He was more a chronicler, compiling centuries of historical records, literary works and philosophical treatises. He sorted through the clutter, decided what

was non-essential, and organized the rest in a user-friendly way, single-handedly sculpting mountains of slush into a unified canon. Not bad, Kong. Of course, he had a few things of his own to say as well.

T h e s ag e g r o ws u p

Like his Western counterpart, Socrates, Kong was reportedly rather ugly: bucktoothed and hunchbacked with a bulge on one side of his enormous head. But this wasn’t the only reason he lacked friends as a child. Growing up, it seems little Kong was a bit of a weirdo; one of his favorite hobbies was re-enacting funerals. Legend says his mother noticed his fascination with the nearby cemetery and moved the family near a school hoping he’d begin to emulate the teachers there instead. Her gamble worked, but Kong never lost his fascination with ceremonial customs.

Kong spent his adult years vying for government jobs throughout China and felt what was needed most was just for everyone to do what they were supposed to do. In other words, if the farmers got to farming, the fighters got to fighting, and the rulers got to ruling, things would be better for everyone. Like most conservatives today, he longed for the mythical time when things were good. Thus, he assembled histories to show just how much better things had been and detailed ancient rites to explain how to re-create such order.

Character

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Transliteration

Th e ph i lo s o ph i ca l fu n da m e nta l s

The basic principles he emphasized were yi, li and ren. Roughly, these represent justice, ritual and benevolence. Yi isn’t merely courtroom justice though; it’s having a sense of justice in oneself, a tendency to want to do good as opposed to being a sociopath. This is the foundation of everything else, but it’s inherent— you can’t teach someone to have a heart.

Ritual, or li, builds on justice and is more than just knowing what to do at a funeral or wedding. It involves all manner of etiquette and is the reason you have to conjugate your verbs differently when talking to someone’s mother in Korean.

But such formality has a deeper side too as a vehicle for ren, or all the things about being human that makes being human beautiful. You could sum it up with “love,” as indeed many have. The importance of ritual in achieving ren lies, for example, in knowing how to behave not only when you’re at the dinner table but when someone tells you their father just died. Ritual, therefore, is so fundamental to creating ren that Confucianism is often referred to as lijiao, or the religion of ritual, which is still its name in Korean today (유교 yugyo).

M a i n ta i n i n g t h e s o c i a l o r d e r

But our friend Kong wasn’t seeking ren merely for its own sake. In his Analects, we find him saying, “Do not unto others what you would not have them do unto Hangul

Translation

義

yi

의 (정의)

justice

禮

li

예 (예의)

ritual

仁

ren

인 (인정)

benevolence

Myeongryundang (명륜당, 明倫堂) at Seonggyungwan University (Seoul) was first built in 1398.

Countless Confucian students and scholars passed through the halls of this building, and even kings visited on occasion to give lectures.

Photo provided by Jongno-gu Office

you.” This is known as shu, or “reciprocity,” and is the most fundamental principle of Confucianism (ren exists to create shu).

You’ve probably heard Koreans talk about jeong—well, this is where it comes from.

It’s the idea that humans are inescapably social creatures, and that social harmony is the only thing worth striving for. Kong no doubt would have balked at Western philosophers who asked questions such as “Do I exist?” or “What is the meaning of death?” For him, society was everything, so he put the greatest emphasis on what he felt was the very glue that held it all together: relationships.

One thing that bothers many non-Koreans living here is the sometimes excessive respect paid to the opinions and decisions of elders. This is undoubtedly Kong’s influence, but his aims were to generate as much shu as possible by keeping society humming along smoothly. Remember, things work best when people do what they’re supposed to, and as a teacher he saw relationships in terms of the parent and the student (one protects and guides while the other obeys and learns). He boiled all relationships down to five basic interactions: father-son, husband-wife, older-younger brother, friend-friend, and ruler-subject. Though admittedly malecentered constructs, they provide strong organizational structure, as the comparative harmony and efficiency in societies like Korea and Japan can attest.

M a s t e r Ko n g i n Ko r e a

Despite the good sense he was making, Master Kong’s ideas were not an overnight sensation. However, they eventually caught on with people in power and began to spread. The ancient text Samguk Sagi mentions the construction of a Confucian academy on the Korean peninsula as

early as 372 CE, and the Silla Kingdom is known to have sent some of its subjects to study Confucianism in present-day Xi’an.

In 958 CE, King Gwangjong of Goryeo set up the civil ser vice examinations known as gwageo. It was around this time that Neo-Confucianism developed, which combined Confucianism with Buddhist and Taoist teachings and put particular emphasis on the nature of li. This new system of thought caught on with the ruling classes who admired its deep metaphysical aspects but also appreciated its practical application in helping keep the lower classes in their place. Ultimately, it was NeoConfucianism that became the reigning philosophy of Korea’s Joseon Dynasty.

C o n f u c i a n i sm ’ s l a s t i n g l e g acy

After the Meiji Restoration in Japan, the Cultural Revolution in China, and the Juche ideology in North Korea, South Korea today is perhaps the only place left that is still experiencing what Master Kong dreamed about 2,500 years ago. We are witnessing in Korean society today a kind of philosophical experiment first implemented by Joseon kings and reinforced over time. At one time, civil service exams in Korea consisted solely of demonstrating a mastery of the classic Confucian texts and as the importance of college entrance exams demonstrates, this devotion to scholarship survives today. As Zen monks pay attention to form in the pursuit of enlightenment, so Confucian scholars devote themselves to study in the pursuit of social harmony, and the focus on education is one aspect of that.

This enormous debt is paid homage in many ceremonies here but also, for example, in the currency: the W1,000 and W5,000 banknotes feature Confucian scholars Yi Hwang and his rival Yi 10 Magazine March 2011 | 15

I, respectively (to find out more, see the list of sites below), while the back of the W1,000 note depicts the Confucian Academy in Andong, and more recently the W50,000 note featured Shin Saimdang, mother of Yi I and paragon of Confucian motherly values. But if you’re interested in a more active representation of Confucianism in Korea today, try a visit to Munmyo, Korea’s principal Confucian shrine located on Sungkyunkwan University campus near Hyehwa Stn. (line 4) in Seoul. Built in 1398, this shrine boasts breathtaking architecture, and rituals are held each spring and autumn commemorating Korea’s glowing Confucian past. To explore more ceremonies and sites, take a look at the lists below.

Confucian Ceremonies

May 1st Jongmyo Ancestral Rites (종묘제례) This ceremony, held at Jongmyo in Seoul on the first Sunday of each May, pays respects to the Joseon dynasty. Jongno 3-ga Stn. (lines 1, 3, & 5, ex. 11).

June 6th Gangneung Dano Festival This festival takes place on May 5th according to the lunar calendar. In addition to traditional activities like swinging and dying your hair with grapes, solemn ancestral rites are held in Gangneung. danojefestival.or.kr 033-641-1593 October 3rd Ceremony for Dangun On Foundation Day each year, a special ceremony is held at Chamseongdan, the altar is said to have been made

by Dangun, the legendary founder of Gojoseon.

Chamseongdan is located on Ganghwa Island in the municipality of Incheon.

Confucian Schools and Sites Dosanseowon (도산서원) This seowon (memorial hall) was built to honor Toegye Yi Hwang (퇴계이황), a mid-Joseon scholar whose picture is found on the W1,000 bill. Summer 9 am - 6 pm, Winter 9 am – 5 pm. 680 Togye-ri, Dosan-myeon, Andong, Gyeongsangbuk-do. dosanseowon.com 054-840-6599 Gangneung Confucian School (강릉 향교) At this school, which today is National Treasure #214, devotees of Confucianism focus on their studies and hold memorial services for their ancestors. 233 Gyo-dong, Gangneung, Gangwondo 033-648-3667 Gyeongju Confucian School (경주 향교) This school is an attempt to revive the traditional culture and ethics of the seonbi—Confucian scholars.

Gyo-dong 17-1, Gyeongju, Gyeongsangbuk-do. gyeongjuhyanggyo.org 054-772-3624 Ojukheon (오죽헌) This museum is dedicated to Yulgok Yi I (율곡이이). Yi I shows up on the W5,000 notes, while his mother Saimdang Shin appears on the W50,000 bill introduced two years ago. 201 Jukhyeon-dong, Gangneung, Gangwon-do. www.ojukheon.or.kr 033-640-4457 Sunbichon (선비촌) Got a kid who just won’t sit still? Send him to a camp at this school and he’ll come back a perfectly trained little Confucian.

Sunheung-myeon, Yeongju, Gyeongsangbuk-do. sunbichon.net 054-638-6444

A TASTE OF KOREA

Odeng 오뎅 Fishcake

Shot by Judith Ann Clancy

W o r ds by C i a r a n H i c k e y, e x ec u ti v e chef o f the w se o u l walke r hill

Skewered fish paste? This oft-underrated delicacy is tasty, quick, and cheap.

O

J.A.C.

deng is one of the gems of Korean food for me. It scores top points in three important categories: it tastes great, it’s filling and it’s cheap. It’s also pretty much available everywhere you go, including malls, supermarkets, convenience stores and even 5-star hotels.

Basically, odeng is seasoned fish paste that has been formed into cakes or strips and then cooked. These are then mostly threaded onto wooden skewers for serving. The paste itself is made by kneading the fish purée with starch, rice flour or regular flour, sugar, salt and rice wine.

If you spend any time in Korea you will come across three different types of odeng. The first and most basic is simply served on sticks sitting in a broth. The broth is usually based on turnip and leeks with either crab or dried seaweed adding a boost of flavor. At the pojangmacha you just eat as many as you want and hope that the vendor is counting your sticks. The broth is always free and varies from place to place. If you see crab shells, pump-

16 10 Magazine March 2011

kins or leeks floating in the broth, chances are it’s going to be good. A soy sauce paste is usually served for you to dip the odeng in if you think it needs a lift. One interesting variation I have tried is red odeng, in which the fish paste is served in a spicy red gochujang-based sauce. Not for the faint of heart!

In the second style, the paste is rolled on sticks, deep-fried, and served with mustard sauce and ketchup. The variety of these is wonderful with different stalls competing for business by inventing their own versions. I had one recently with processed cheese filling which I am a little ashamed to say I loved.

Finally, we have the real cold buster, odeng tang (also known as eomuk guk, see below). Here the fishcakes are served in a bowl of broth with a touch of chili, chopped green onions and soy. You really should be sitting down for this. It’s a hearty treat often served with soju or jeongjong (a Korean version of sake). The color, taste and shape of the odeng vary a lot depending on where you order the soup, so you may have to root around to find your favorite.

The final selling point for me is that my kids will eat anything once it’s on a stick, so odeng is perfect for us as quick filler when we are out and about. Tasty, quick and cheap, this is one part of the local dining scene you simply cannot miss.

10 Tip

Some Koreans may tell you that you should refer to “odeng” as “eomuk” (어묵), since the former is derived from Japanese and the latter is a native Korean word. But we bet that when there’s not a foreigner around, those same people just call it “odeng.”

Dylan Goldby

Netizen’s Picks

The Best Odeng in Busan

Why Busan? Odeng first became popular during the Japanese occupation of Korea, and Busan was the center of this fad thanks to its proximity to the island nation.

Busan’s Renowned Hoe House 부산 명성횟집 Don’t let the name fool you—this restaurant has earned its reputation for over forty years of delicious odeng tang since it opened in 1968.

A broth made with 15 different ingredients gives it a distinct flavor. Located diagonally across from the Busan Bank in Sujeong-dong, Dong-gu, Busan. Open noon – 10 pm, closed the 1st and 3rd Sundays.

051-468-8089 Miso Odeng 미소 오뎅 Though it only opened in 2007, this shop has already gained a following. Come here for exotic choices like mushroom odeng and squid odeng. Odeng is W500 each, and bibim guksu goes for W3,000. Take ex. 5 from Daeyeon Stn. (line 2). It’s across from Ssangdungi Dwaeji Gukbap (쌍둥이돼지국밥).

051-902-2710 Home Sweet Home 정든집 (Seoul) There is a good reason why this odeng bar located in Seoul has won the hearts of its customers. You’ll be surprised by more than a dozen different odengs including cheese, dumpling and cold Japanese varieties, selling for W1,300 each. It’s located on the right side at the entrance of Garosu-gil, 5 minutes from Sinsa Stn. (line 3, ex. 8). Look for J Tower. 02-3443-1952 Edited by Dav i d Ca rruth and So n g Le e

10 Magazine March 2011 | 17

IN THE KITCHEN

Shiqiu Zhang C h e f at H o L e e C h o w , D o g o k B r a n c h W o r ds A N D S H OT S by Pa u l M at t h e ws

With 10,000 portions of Mongolian beef under his belt, chef Shiqiu Zhang knows his way around the kitchen.

A

s I enter the front door of the Dogok branch of Ho Lee Chow, all is calm. Waiters glide past tables as customers happily munch on Kung Pao Beef and Sweet and Sour Pork. A picture of fine dining serenity.

However, as I turn the corner into the kitchen, I find myself in a completely different world. Hustle, bustle, the clank of steel on steel, knives on wood, voices filling the air. At the heart of this noisy, organized mayhem stands Chinese chef Shiqiu Zhang.

With a smile on his face and a wok in his hand, he is king of this kitchen.

Zhang has been working in the food industry since he was sixteen years old. He spent the first 12 years of his career at the Baqi restaurant in Fushun in Liaoning Province, where he learned how to cook and began to specialize in Northeastern Chinese cuisine.

Working in restaurants allowed him to provide food for his family as well as his customers and became his one true passion.

After building up a career in China, he decided it was time to look for work abroad.

And so in 2007, Zhang came to Korea and has spent the past four years turning out fantastic Chinese food for the Ho Lee Chow franchise. It was tough at first as he got used to the Korean way of working and the need for a lot of pre-preparation compared to Chinese kitchens, but he has settled in admirably and enjoys life at the Dogok Branch. He trains up new Chinese and Korean chefs, and during his time at Ho Lee Chow he has served up over 10,000 portions of Mongolian beef.

When he’s not keeping the kitchen under control, Zhang likes snacking on Korean ramyeon boiled up with a little fresh fish, a tasty treat that serves as a reminder of the spicy hot pots he used to eat in China as a child. He’s not a big fan of the Korean-Chinese dish jajangmyeon (자장면, black noodles) and much prefers sitting down to a dinner of bulgogi.

In fact, he hopes one day to open up his own Chinese-Korean restaurant in Fushun city. But for now, he’s content to bring some of the best American-style Chinese food in Korea to your table.

Shiqiu Zhang’s Szechuan Pork Recipe Ingredients

• 300 g sliced pork • 15 g diced red bell peppers • 30 g diced onions • 15 g diced green bell peppers • 30 g sliced carrots • bean oil • 2 tsp Lee Kum Kee Toban Djan (Chili Bean Sauce) • 2 tsp sugar • 1 tsp soy sauce • 1 tsp red chili powder

18 18 | 10 Magazine March 2011

Instructions

1. Lightly fry the sliced pork in 400 g bean oil until fully cooked.

2. Remove the pork from the pan and drain the oil.

3. Add all the vegetables and stir-fry in 1 tbsp of bean oil.

4. Add the cooked pork, sugar, soy sauce and chili powder.

5. Add the Lee Kum Kee Toban Djan (Chili Bean Sauce).

6. Toss over a high-flame until everything is evenly coated.

7. Arrange on a plate.

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Expats on the Run W o r ds by A d e e l A h m a d , sh ots by S c o t t H e ms e y

Don’t let the smog and congestion distract you from the great running that Korea has to offer.

Twenty-seven members of the Seoul Flyers joined in the race held on Saturday, January 29th near Ttukseom Resort Stn. (line 7) in Seoul.

Good Places for Running While some might be blessed to live by the Han River in Seoul, others live next to a crowded thoroughfare that isn’t good for anything but bumper-to-bumper driving. Look for quiet streets, or think of a park, university or creek in your area. Chances are that it will be a good place to run. You can also take a look through our list of recommended spots and find the one that’s closest to you.

S eoul

Namsan, Yangjaecheon, Cheonggyecheon, Boramae Park, Olympic Park, Bukhansan Dullegil Trail Chungcheong Prov ince

Daejeon: World Cup Stadium, Daedeok Science Complex Park, Bomunsan Gy e o n g g i P r o v i n c e

C

oncrete canyons, whizzing motorcycles, and endless traffic make running in Korea sound like an oxymoron. But while the country may appear on the surface to be a complete black hole for the sport, there are some awesome spots for jogging if you’re willing to dig a little deeper. Though you may not see runners pounding the sidewalk (and plunging through the smog), there are thousands of them out there in spots more conducive for some good outdoor aerobic exercise. If you follow this article’s advice, you may just become one of them.

Bundang: Tancheon, Yuldong Park Ilsan: Lake Park, Jeongbalsan Incheon: Incheon Grand Park, Wolmi Park, Seunggicheon Suwon: Hwaseong Fortress, Hyowon Park Gy e o n g s a n g P r o v i n c e

Busan: Nakdong River, Dongbaek Island Park, Daegu: Shincheon, Citizens Sports Park, Duryu Park Jeoll a Prov ince

Gwangju: 5.18 Memorial Park, Gwangjucheon

S ta r t s l o w

Get in gear

Warmer weather comes early in Korea, at least for Canadians and Minnesotans, which is a nice incentive. Running on an early spring day in March is a nice time to begin. If you didn’t run much over the winter or if you are a new runner, start out easy.

The most common mistake made by new or occasional runners is doing too much. Running is not supposed to hurt all the time. If you’ve never run before, try starting with a workout that alternates a minute of running and a minute of walking for twenty minutes (see c25k.com for details on the “Couch to 5k Training Plan”). If you ran 30-40 minutes per run last year, try starting out with runs of 20 minutes, or even as short as 10 or 15 minutes, to ease back in.

Running is a simple and cheap sport. When you start running, you don’t need any special clothes or equipment. Those who say otherwise clearly haven’t met a non-runner in denim shorts and cross-trainers who ran 13 km in an hour while explaining their dissertation to you.

However, if you do decide to go running more regularly, consider buying a pair of running shoes. Wearing the wrong shoes, along with running too fast or far, is the cause of most running problems. A good running store for those in Seoul, Suwon, and Jeju is Fleet Runner ( fleetrunner.co.kr).

Another option in Seoul is Runners Club (runnersclub. com) near Yangjae Stn. (line 3).

In the humid Korean summer, wearing a cotton shirt will make any run miserable in a hurry. Spending a little bit of money on a t-shirt in a technical fabric that keeps you dry will go a long way. Korea is great in this regard, as a lot of hiking clothes can be bought cheaply and used for running as well.

20 10 Magazine March 2011

Join a group

A great way to keep running and to enjoy it is to find an exercise partner. You might know somebody who runs already. If not, see if any of your friends or co-workers want to start. Running at a conversational pace can be a very social activity.

If you don’t know of any runners in your area, join a club. There is no shortage of running clubs in Korea, and some cater to expats. In Seoul, try the Seoul Flyers (seoulflyers. com) or Smile Run (smilerun.com).

Gwangju has the Gwangju Running Club, which has a Facebook group. A very social, laidback approach to running is guaranteed by the Hash House Harriers, who meet across the country. Active groups are in Seoul, Gyeonggi-do, Jeonju, Gwangju, Busan and even Geoje-do.

E n t e r a r ac e

For runners new and old, a great way to keep running interesting is to sign up for a race. If you can regularly run for 30 to 40 minutes, why not sign up for a 10k? If you’ve just started running, sign up for a 5k that’s two months away to give you time to prepare. A 5k will take beginning runners 30-35 minutes to complete.

Participating in a race can help you experience multiple facets of Korea. Some races start and finish at familiar places like the Olympic Stadium in Seoul, while others give a tour of sites in the DMZ. Races in other areas of Korea are parts of festivals or tourist destinations (like Boseong’s Green Tea Marathon), making running a great way to visit parts of Korea you might not have seen otherwise. For those that are into hiking, there are also races that climb mountains, ranging from hilly 40-minute runs to grueling 85-kilometre races over a dozen different mountains.

From morning runs past groups of people heading home from bars to the beautiful views of Seoul from the Han River to the breathtaking scenery on the 33-km race up Jirisan, you’re guaranteed to have an unforgettable experience.

Racing Tips

Running a race in Korea can be bewildering, though races are exceptionally well-managed. Here is some general information worth knowing.

• See the sports and fitness section of the 10 Magazine event calendar for info on upcoming marathons all over Korea.

• Registration is conducted almost exclusively online and tends to close well in advance. Plan your races weeks in advance, if not months. Race-day registration is impossible.

• Race fees are cheaper than back home and include souvenirs like T-shirts, backpacks, blankets and even rice or seaweed! Race kits are always mailed.

• Races are large and friendly, and runners are very helpful.

Most races start by massaging the shoulders of the person in front of you. Expect the usual mix of serious competitors, recreational runners and people wearing octopus costumes to advertise a restaurant.

• Most marathons have shorter cut-off times than in the West.

Five hours is typical.

• The Seoul Flyers maintain a great listing of races and help with registration on their Facebook page.

10 Magazine March 2011 | 21

kor ean desti nation

Palace Intrigue

1

W o r ds B Y T o d d B r u n s and sh o ts b y D a v i d C a r r u t h

If the only Korean palaces you know are in Seoul, it’s time to take a trip to Jiri Mountain.

I

stood in front of the inner gate to Samseong Palace (삼성 dong, a village that was isolated in this mountain valley for 400 궁). It hadn’t been an easy journey. I’d taken a bus from years and remains dedicated to the old ways and old apparel. Of Jinju to the dusty one-horse town of Hadong. After a lay- course, Korea has no shortage of folk villages built for the benover there, I’d continued on another bus to Cheonghak-dong. efit of tourists, but Cheonghak-dong and Samseong-gung are From there, I’d trudged along the twisting mountain road in Jiri more than mere tourist attractions. They were built and are still Mountain National Park to the outer gate of the palace, a half- maintained for the benefit of this isolated group. hour uphill walk with minimal signage.

The outer portion of Samseong Palace is unlike any place I’d Samseong Palace defines unique in Korea. Rather than a major seen in Korea: towering mountains, dancing waterfalls, and stone religion or the medieval royal family, this palace is dedicated to stupas, which look more Cambodian or Burmese than Korean.

Korea’s original creation myth. The Three Sages that are wor- Though they aren’t particularly old, they look old in a way that shipped here are Hwan-in, Hwan-ung, and most things here do not. The stupas, walls, most of all Dangun, the legendary offand portals are built of granite stones, The door was closed. spring of a god and a bear-woman whom seemingly piled together by giants.

Korean lore deems the national patriarch.

After making my way through the outer Somebody had to hit the gong. palace, I found another uphill mountain The palace is located near CheonghakGetting There

22 10 Magazine March 2011

If you’re not going to drive, a bus is your best option. There are direct buses to Hadong from Nambu Terminal in Seoul, but a better choice would be to take one of the frequent buses from Express Bus Terminal or Nambu Terminal to charming Jinju (4 hours), which is also easily accessible from any major city in Korea. Jinju has the most hotels, restaurants, and cultural attractions in the region. From Jinju, buses leave for Hadong hourly (1 hour), and Hadong offers bus service to Cheonghak-dong (1 hour) at 8:30, 11 am, 1, 3:30, and 5 pm. From Cheonghak-dong, Samseong-gung is a half-hour walk with no taxis in sight. bdsj.or.kr 055-884-1279, 1256 Mukgye-ri, Cheongam-myeon, Hadong-gun, Gyeongnam-do

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1 A mokjangseung (totem pole) grimaces in front of the inner palace.

2 An ascending spiral leads to a pagoda. 3 The small gift shop blends into its surroundings. 4 You never know what you’ll find at Samseonggung.

5 Tiers of rocks lead up to the temple.

path. At the top of the path stood the door into the inner palace.

Outside the closed door was a gong. Somebody had to hit the gong.

A Korean tourist had a few paces on me. She grabbed the mallet and banged the gong three times. Fitting, at the palace of the Three Sages. A man in ancient Korean garb emerged from the door. He led the group that had gathered through the door, which proved to be a dim corridor through the hill.

We re-emerged in daylight on the other side of the hill. The man led us to a ridge overlooking the main palace grounds 5 and a small pond. The gentle slopes of Jiri Mountain enveloped the palace from all other sides. I saw nothing modern-looking on the palace grounds. There are no signs in English anywhere, and even the bathroom fits the theme. From every angle, it looks and feels hundreds of years old and a million miles away from urban Korea’s endless apartment blocks.

10 Magazine March 2011 | 23

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Asi an desti nation

Sri Lanka’s New Groove Tourism Returns to the Pearl of the Indian Ocean

W o r ds by M i c h a e l B e r r y

Images provided by Embassy of the Democratic Socialist Republic of Sri Lanka

The end of hostilities leads to a tourism boom in a country trying to recover from decades of conflict.

I

t’s New Year’s Eve on Mirissa Beach. Already the crowds are gathering for the festivities leading to the pre-midnight countdown that will bring in 2011 with a riot of noise and color from fireworks. The beach is packed, and the mood expectant. The tourists are back in force and, if the mood here is any indication, they can’t wait to soak up the myriad delights of a country tentatively emerging from the darkness of its last three decades.

The shadow of conflict

Trincomalee

Uppuveli/Nilaveli

Passikudah/Kalkudah

S ri

L anka Kandy

Arugam Bay

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Colombo

10 Magazine March 2011

Arugam Bay

Pidurutalagala

(Mount Pedro 2,524 m)

Badulla

Midigama/Ahangama Mirissa

Long hidden in the shadow of its much larger neighbor India, Sri Lanka is seeking to regain its once-storied reputation as the holiday pearl of the Indian Ocean. After years of war that tore the country’s communities apart, the mood is cautiously optimistic. Meanwhile, tourists seem to feel it’s safe enough to return to enjoy the country’s vitality, friendliness, and sheer physical beauty – all packed into a place smaller in area than South Korea.

Since most visitors come here primarily for fun in the sun, they tend to while away their time in lazy, hazy reverie, which, all things considered, is a pretty good way to go. The sociopolitical aspect of travel and leisure in Sri Lanka never really intrudes on the pleasure, but visitors should still be aware of the basic background to tourism here.

After decades of strife, the tourist infrastructure is woefully inadequate to handle the massive influx of recent arrivals. In fact, 2010 saw the largest number of visitors ever in all of Sri Lanka’s tourist history, even the pre-war halcyon days. Weaknesses in the infrastructure are being dealt with, but visitors should take note and book early, especially during the peak season (October - April). There are also issues with transportation,

including crowded, hazardous roads that are being addressed by a massive repair and construction program. Visitors may be surprised by the ubiquitous military and police presence, incongruous given the end of the war, and a government not known for its openness to the West. But Sri Lanka’s abundant attractions offer ample reason to go despite these drawbacks.

S o u t h w e s t, n o r t h e a s t, a n d c e n t e r

Unlike many other tropical destinations, where you go in Sri Lanka largely depends on when you go. In fact, there are two distinct travel periods and regions, due to Sri Lanka’s location in the monsoon belt. The northeast monsoon, which runs from October to April and brings the heaviest rains to the east and northeast of the country, opens up the west and south coasts to the fine weather of the peak season. The beaches teem with visitors, the water takes on that fantastical aquamarine that is the mainstay of tourist brochures; diving and surfing sites abound; the game reserves fill with wildlife and those observing them; travel is easier; and a palpable sense of tropical ease is manifest.

This is definitely the time for sun-worshipers to indulge themselves—and they do!

The southwest monsoon, which blows hard during the months of May to September, opens up the less-travelled roads, beaches, and sights of the east and northeast areas. These are primarily the Tamil and Muslim areas and are all the more interesting now since they were generally off-limits during the war. ConContinued on page 27

The Five Best Beaches Sri Lanka is in effect one big beach, but there are spots along the coast that grab your attention even in the midst of such palm-fringed splendor.

1. Mirissa The successor to Unawatuna (which has unfortunately no beach left to speak of) on the southwest coast, and the spot for sunworshipping R&R. It’s more expensive these days but still retains its charm and laid-back vibe.

2. Midigama/Ahangama More a collection of smaller coves and beaches linked by various surfing breaks, but great for quieter, cheaper getaways. Ram’s Surfing Beach at Midigama is a particular fave.

3. Arugam Bay The major surfing beach in Sri Lanka, Arugam is most accessible during the SW Monsoon months (May to September).

This is also the gateway to the lovely, deserted stretches of beach stretching south to Okanda.

4. Passikudah/Kalkudah These two beaches had remained totally undeveloped over the last 20 years, but that’s all changing big time these days. All manner of resorts and tourist ventures are underway, especially around Passikudah.

5. Uppuveli/Nilaveli (Trincomalee) These were the crown jewels of the northeast coast beaches before the war. With the war’s end, they are slowly getting back on track, but it’s still going to be a long road as the infrastructure is weak.

10 Magazine March 2011 | 25

Asi an desti nation

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sh ots b y M at t h e w C r aw f o r d

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The Hill Country by Train Experiencing Sri Lanka as It Should Be Experienced

26 10 Magazine March 2011

It is perhaps hard to believe that a tropical destination like Sri Lanka has an entire other side in which cool nights, high country vistas, and mountains predominate, but the hill country is all that and more! Without a doubt the best way to experience this lush swath of tea plantations, waterfalls, and exotic villages is to take the train on the Colombo – Badulla Line.

The cost is absurdly low: 1st class in the observation car is a mere 750 rupees (US $7), and that gets you about 11 hours of a literal “ocean to sky” experience. The trip is a veritable journey through the colonial history of the country, starting at the old British-built Fort Station in Colombo and passing by the tea estates, plantations, and other monuments to an empire’s drive and ambition. Storied cities and towns dot the line and mark the traveler’s progress into a world where the passage of time is not something to be feared but embraced. It may not be as long as some of the world’s other great train journeys, but it’s every bit as magical and begs to be repeated.

Continued from page 25 sequently these areas are far less developed than the more wellknown western region, hill country, and cultural triangle area, and are perfect for those wishing to take a more adventurous path on their travels and venture to places off the normal tourist trails. From Trincomalee in the northeast to Arugam Bay in the southeast, one of the world’s most famous surfing spots, the east coast offers all manner of off-beat delights for the daring soul.

Jaffna, the centre of Tamil culture in the north, is an experience of its own. Unfortunately, at the time of writing, it was off-limits to foreign travelers. It’s unclear when that will change.

The center of the country, most notably the hill country in the south-central and the cultural triangle in the north-central areas are accessible year-round: there is always something to see, somewhere to go, and something to do throughout this part of the country. Of special note is the Kandy Perahera, the Buddhist festival that attracts as many as a million people (held from August 4th to 14th this year). There’s also the spectacular train journey from Colombo to Badulla running through the hill country.

One thing that becomes readily apparent when trying to expound upon what can be encountered on a trip here is that no short travelogue can begin to cover the breadth of experiences that Sri Lanka has to offer. There are certainly guide books and internet sites that go into remarkable detail, but, when all is said and done, the only real way to find out is to go yourself.

S r i L a n k a’ s g r e at e s t t r e a s u r e

With the end of the war, a spirit of hope and the chance to open up their resilient nation to the wider world have infused the Sri Lankan people with a new vigor and sense of purpose. The corruption in the governing elite has not yet hindered this drive to succeed, and the support of a new generation of travelers who seek the best Sri Lanka has to offer can only aid this process.

After 30 years of conflict, helping the island maintain a prosperous peace is the least we can do.

When all the vacation options in Sri Lanka have been dissected and analyzed, the thing that elevates the country to the pantheon of exotic travel destinations is not its beaches, game reserves, conflicting cultures, exotic sights and sounds, or good deals on artworks, tea, and fabric. The thing that makes Sri Lanka such a worthwhile destination is its ever-helpful, resilient and welcoming people. Not the arrogant elites and venal politicians, but the ordinary Sri Lankans who have survived adversity that could make lesser nations quail to emerge smiling and unbowed, who are always ready to offer the tired traveler a cup of tea and a sympathetic ear. They are the real treasure of this country, and fully deserve to take their place on the world’s tourism stage.

Top Five Traditional Foods 1. Lamprais A rice-based dish redolent with spices like cardamom and cloves topped with vegetables, meat and chutney, wrapped in a banana leaf and baked to properly infuse the flavors.

2. Hoppers Rice flour and coconut milk are mixed and formed into a thin, bowl-shaped crêpe that can be filled with an assortment of curries, eggs, or fruit.

3. Roti/Kottu Roti This large flatbread is chopped up and mixed with egg, meats, fish, or dry curries.

4. Short Eats A variety of delicious traditional snack pastries such as samosas, fish rolls, potato and onion wedges, and egg rolls.

5. Fresh Seafood Sri Lanka’s waters teem with all manner of marine edibles, including shrimp, crab, and squid, but the cream of the ocean’s crop is the abundant bounty of whole fresh fish including seer, red and white snapper, barracuda, and butterfish.

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Martial Arts of Korea Words by Jay Boyle

Taekwondo, hapkido, and kumdo: you’ve heard the names, and now you can learn the arts.

W

hen someone says they train in martial arts, what do you imagine? Do you see them dancing around in white pyjamas? Battling through an army of villains like Jackie Chan or Bruce Lee? Pummelling their opponent in a UFC fight?

The truth is, the martial arts mean different things for different people. Their origins, history and traditions are as unique as the cultures that produced them. For those living in Korea, the opportunity to become part of this centuries-old tradition is everywhere, but many people don’t know where to begin.

The long road to mastering a martial art First of all – don’t be scared – most modern martial arts gyms are welcoming, friendly and open to all. The martial arts are big business, both here and around the world, and any good instructor will be happy to see new students who want to train.

Don’t let the ease of finding a gym fool you, though. Training in the martial arts is a long and difficult process. Forget any ideas you may have of training with Mr. Miyagi and becoming an expert over the course of a five-minute montage of scenes.

Studies have shown that mastery of most anything requires 10,000 hours of continued, dedicated practice. If you attend a two-hour class, five nights a week, you’ll “master” that activity in about 1,000 weeks, or a little over 19 years. So be prepared to commit for the long haul if you really want to succeed and excel in the martial arts.

The good news is that as you train you will

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see benefits. Flexibility, strength, and fitness are just some of the physical benefits to regular training, but martial arts are not just about the physical: you will also be trained in the mental aspects of the art. You won’t learn how to shoot fire out of your hands (sorry folks, no hadouken here) but training can lead to increased confidence, focus and self-discipline.

Taekwondo: martial art and Olympic sport In Korea, you have the opportunity to train in various styles.

Of these, probably the most well-known is taekwondo (태권도), and there are thousands of gyms dedicated to the art in Seoul alone. Taekwondo is split into two groups: The ITF (International Taekwon-do Federation) and WTF (World Taekwondo Federation). Sadly, the in-fighting and politics between these two groups would make Machiavelli look away in disgust. Their history is long and intricate. But luckily, you don’t need to get involved in any of that to enjoy training in either style!

Previous and this page: images provided by ku k k i wo n

Kukkiwon (국기원 the World Taekwondo Headquarters) was established in 1972 to govern and regulate taekwondo. Its primarily goals are to advance the art as a popular sport and to promote its practice around the world. It is active in organizing competitions, training leaders, and overseeing promotion in rank.

821-1 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul. kukkiwon.or.kr 02-567-1058

The ITF is commonly seen as the martial arts-focused version of taekwondo. This is due to its focus on self-defence training. In most ITF gyms you will train a hybrid style of fighting, focusing on the kicks and strikes that make taekwondo famous, but also incorporating throws, breakfalls and jointlocking. There is an emphasis on breaking or “destruction” techniques in ITF belt tests. Very early in your training, you may be asked to break wooden boards using kicks or strikes to demonstrate your power and precision in techniques. An ITF sparring session also looks closer to kickboxing or karate than the WTF counterpart, and many ITF practitioners are successful full-contact kickboxers (and some have even made the leap into the Ultimate Fighting Championship or UFC!).

In Seoul, the only ITF school is The Way Martial Arts, offering hapkido and MMA (Mixed Martial Arts) classes alongside taekwondo. They can be found on Facebook or online at thewaymartialarts.com.

The WTF (or World Taekwondo Federation) is perhaps the more famous style. This is thanks to WTF taekwondo becoming an Olympic event in 1980. This was a double-edged sword, however; although the art has become iconic, the obsession of some instructors to “win, win, win” has led to a dilution of the realistic side of training. A lot of WTF gyms have let parts of taekwondo fall by the wayside in favour of focusing on aspects that will net

Flexibility, strength, and fitness are just some of the physical benefits to regular training, but you will also be trained in the mental aspects of the art. them trophies and medals. This is how WTF taekwondo got the reputation for being a sport rather than an art. It is still possible to find traditional gyms which will teach you all the aspects of taekwondo (not just how to win medals), but you need to be VERY careful when choosing your gym. Arirang Taekwondo is a very friendly international club in Seoul. It can be found on Facebook or online at cafe.daum.net/arirangtaekwon.

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Dogok-dong 3rd Maple Tree House Now open in DOGOK-DONG

SK Leader’s View Maebong Stn. exit.3

464 Dogok-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Tel: 574-4468, 11:30 am- 10:30 pm

Itaewon

Samcheong-dong

Mougle KFC

Hamilton Hotel

Itaewon Stn. exit.1

116-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul 11:30 am – 10:30 pm, Tel: 02-790-7977

Myungseong Market

Samcheong-dong Street

Bar 1010

31-1 Samcheong-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Tel: 02-730-7461, 11:30 am – 10:30 pm (2:30 – 5:30 pm Mon–Fri Break time)

Jay Boyle

Hapkido: many kwans and one philosophy If kicking and punching are not really your bag, then hapkido (합기도) may be more your style. Hapkido’s history is also long and detailed – and once again the different kwans (schools or styles) can get quite venomous in their attacks on each other.

Without going into too much detail, all hapkido kwans follow a similar philosophy – using pressure point attacks and strikes to help set up joint locks and throws. Its main philosophy is on early interception of techniques and moving your body smoothly and quickly to absorb and ultimately divert any oncoming attacks.

This doesn’t mean that hapkido is purely defensive, however.

Since hapkido incorporates the throws and joint locks commonly found in soft styles while also borrowing kicks and strikes from styles like taekwondo, it covers a wide range of techniques and applications.

Of course, all of this depends on which style you train in. At present there are at least a dozen different kwans of hapkido around the world, all with slightly differing approaches and techniques, and that’s not even counting the hundreds of independent gyms out there. Luckily for us, though, hapkido gyms are almost as common in Korea as taekwondo gyms. Another bonus is that hapkido is seen as a more respectable art for adults to study as well, so you probably won’t get as many weird looks if you ask your Korean friends to help you find a place to train. If you want a truly traditional experience here in Seoul, you could do worse than Sangmukwan International Training Center in western Seoul. sangmookwan.com.

Kumdo: bamboo swords and battlefield tactics Finally, we come to a lesser-known Korean martial art: kumdo.

Kumdo is a sword-fighting art which is also divided into two distinct styles like taekwondo. Daehan Kumdo (검도) is the Korean equivalent of Japanese Kendo. It is a duelling style (similar to European fencing) which uses jukdo (죽도 bamboo swords) to attack specific body parts. Training involves drilling set attacks and defences and has a heavy focus on sparring. Students in Daehan Kumdo will wear hogu (호구 armour) to protect themselves when sparring against each other. Winning attacks are delivered to the hand, shoulder or head (all of which are heavily padded) and only count if these body parts are struck with the sword – which, for obvious reasons, is built from strips of bamboo rather than folded steel! There are two main organisations, the KKA and WKA. The KKA is the dominating group and it also has the easiest-to-find schools. For classes and locations please check out kumdo.org (note that you’ll need the help of someone who can read Korean).

The second major variety is Haidong Kumdo (해동검도), the battlefield sword art of Korea. Focusing on facing multiple opponents, it uses forms and fixed sparring drills to train sword techniques as they would have been used on the ancient battlefields of Korea. Practice in Haidong Kumdo involves “live” swordwork, which means cutting posts and bamboo with an actual sword, and qi gong training which focuses on meditation and controlled breathing.

Perhaps surprisingly, Haidong Kumdo is a meditative and

The Best Defense A lot of readers may be a little daunted by the idea of entering the world of martial arts. Still, living in a big city like Seoul means it can’t hurt to know a few fundamental martial arts moves just in case you get in trouble. These self-defense techniques, illustrated

by Nikia Noel and Mike Durkee, can help you get out of an attack and give you peace of mind when you’re walking alone at night (or even during the day). We’ve included Nikia’s notes so you can read how it works.

Mike Durkee (the bad dude here but normally a pretty nice guy) has made a video demonstration of this self-defense technique. You can find it on our website at 10mag.com/self-defense-video.

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A stranger has grabbed your wrist.

What do you do now?

The first thing you should do is to spread out your fingers and point them towards the floor. This will make your wrist bigger and give you more force.

spiritual art. Its primary philosophy is an idea called shimgum, or the unification of the mind, body and spirit expressed through the use of the sword. Haidong Kumdo trains the student to look beyond technical perfection and try to find a balance or centre where everything comes together effortlessly. The teachings and philosophy of Kaidong Kumdo come from the warrior class of ancient Korea, and they might seem strange to Western, modern minds. Still, that doesn’t change the fact that this is the only style on the list where you learn to use a sharp pointy sword to cut things (and honestly, who doesn’t love that idea?). More information, and locations of gyms, is available at eng.hdgd.org

W

hatever style you choose, remember to enjoy your training, have fun, be safe, and work hard. Enjoy your first steps towards mastery – it’s a long road ahead.

J.B.

Deciding on a Dojang Here are a few general points to consider when choosing a gym to train at.

Distance If your chosen gym is on the other side of Seoul, it’s a problem. Try to find something close to home.

Fees Most places will ask for a flat monthly fee. Also think about uniforms or required equipment (armor, helmet, hand-wraps, etc.)

Language If you can’t ask questions or understand the instructions, your training will suffer. Either find an instructor competent in English, or start brushing up on your Korean!

Student Progress Watch a class and take a look at the students.

As the students progress, you should see a marked difference in ability. If you don’t, it’s worth asking why.

Testing Ask about the gym’s policy on this. A lot of clubs will promote new students depending on how regularly they train, so don’t be upset if you train once a week and aren’t progressing.

As a general rule, two-three classes a week should mean a new belt every two or three months.

Facilities Is it clean? Is the floor padded to allow for safe breakfalling? What equipment is available? Are there showers and changing rooms? All these things will affect your training!

Your Gut Feeling Trust your gut. You’re the one who has to train there. If you’re getting good vibes, go with it.

Next, step into your attacker while bringing your arm up across his body and twisting your wrist outward. The closer you are to the attacker, the harder it will be for him to control the hold. When you twist your wrist with your fingers spread out, you force their grip to widen. With the force of bringing your wrist across his body, he will no longer be able to hold on. This motion also allows you to move away from the attacker as soon as he is forced to release your arm.

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E dited by DAVI D CA RRU T H and s u n ky u ng L e e

New Spring Lunch Menu

A Baroque Backdrop for Your Wedding

Imperial Palace Hotel Ready to tie the knot in style? The Imperial Palace Hotel has got you covered with its French Wedding. Guests can choose the Baroque Wedding at Dubhe Hall, whose Baroque design, high ceilings, and soft lighting are just like a European castle. There’s also the Princess Wedding in Selena Hall, which embodies the Rococo style of Versailles with its decorations of white and gold.

Guests receive a 10% discount on food and beverages. imperialpalace.co.kr 02-3440-8100

Marriott Executive Apartments The city may still be cold and gray, but Park Café at the Marriott Executive Apartments is ready to serve up the year’s first harvest of locally grown spring greens. Starting in March, the New Spring Lunch Menu contains two hearty servings of namul to help you restore the energy lost from months of fighting cold, snow and ice. After the meal, savor your choice of coffee or tea.

The entire three-course lunch is available for W45,000++. measeoul.com 02-2090-8050

Wanna See SG Wannabe?

Daegu Hotel Inter-Burgo EXCO White Day is on its way, and it’s time to start planning for the romantic occasion.

If you’re looking for something out of the ordinary, how about a concert? Mega group SG Wannabe is putting on a show at the Daegu Hotel Inter-Burgo EXCO on March 19th at 7 pm and March 20th at 6 pm. Reserve your tickets online at auction.co.kr. W66,000 – W88,000. ibhotel.com 02-425-5678

Spring Picnic in the Park

JW Marriott Seoul On Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays through June 26th, the JW Marriott Seoul is offering a special package for families to spend the night and then to go on a picnic together in the heart of the city. The package includes a lunch box for two, consisting of two sandwiches with two bottles of vitamin water. Head to the Seoripul Park, which can be easily reached from the hotel by a pedestrian overpass. You must bring your ARC to be eligible. W229,000. marriott.com 02-6282-6282

Herbs and Flowers of Spring

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Courtyard by Marriott Seoul Times Square Through April 30th, the MoMo Café at Courtyard by Marriott will offer a spring herb and f lower bar with namul (fresh, seasonal herbs and flowers) for a salad that is as healthy as it is colorful. The flowers selected hold more than beauty: their petals, leaves and stems are full of vitamin C and other essential nutrients that will recharge your metabolism after the long winter. The salad comes with your choice of two entrées. Only offered during lunch hours (11:30 a m - 2:30 pm). W32 ,0 0 0 W37,000++ courtyardseoul.com 02-2638-3000

The Perfect Proposal

Astoria Hotel If you’re looking to really wow your sweetheart with a proposal so smooth it could be in a movie, this promotion at the Astoria Hotel may be just what you need. Dine on the “2059: A not her 50 Yea rs” special course meal prepared by the chef in the private red room at the New York-style Italian restaurant Bella Coolla 63. The hotel will throw in a bottle of sparkling wine along with setting up a high-quality projector and screen for you to share romantic videos or photos with your soon-to-be fiancée. Only available this White Day (March 11th – 14th).

W220,000. 02-2275-7473

+ = subject to 10% VAT, ++ = subject to 10% VAT and 10% service charge

Hugs and Kisses

Grand Hilton Seoul Create unforgettable memories with your sweetheart this White Day (March 14th) with these promotions at the Grand Hilton Seoul. The two romantic overnight packages include the Kiss Me package (W160,000+ +), which offers you a one-night getaway in a Deluxe Room together with an array of special benefits. With the Hug Me package (W250,000++), guests stay overnight in a luxurious Executive Floor Room, enjoying a bottle of wine with cheese and chocolates. grandhiltonseoul. com 02-2287-8400

Yeon-Soon Song, Korea’s First Female General Manager

A Sip of Spring

A Night of Amusement and Tranquility

Fraser Place Central Seoul T h e 2 n d f l o o r R e s i d e n t s’ Lounge provides a relaxing vibe that will leave you feeling healthy and refreshed. Take a sip of the Yogi Tea, just the thing to help you unwind after a long day or give you a boost to start the day. With four kinds of Yogi Tea as well as many other beverages, you’re sure to find something to suit you. fraserplace.co.kr 02-2220-8888

Novotel Ambassador Busan On January 1st of this year, the Novotel Ambassador Busan appointed Yeon-soon Song as its general manager, making her the first Korean woman to reach that position in Korea. With 26 years of experience in the hotel industry, she was also the first Korean woman to complete a GM training course with hotel group ACCOR. novotelbusan.com 051-743-1234

InterContinental Seoul COEX What could be better than enjoying a thrilling musical and heading back to the luxury of your hotel room after ward?

That’s what you can get with the Enjoy and In Joy Package offered through March 20th at the InterContinental Seoul COEX. Return to the five-star facilities of the hotel after a performance of the Broadway hit Legally Blonde (in Korean). W300,000 - W410,000++. seoul.intercontinental.com 02-3430-8888

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Expat News march 2011

Citi Cards Offer Spa Discount and More at JW Marriott Hotel How about a soak in the only hot spring spa in downtown Seoul? Or an invigorating massage that involves a combination of premium organic materials, traditional Korean techniques, and Western botanical therapy? Even better, how about a 20% discount on all that? That’s what all Citi Card holders can take advantage of at the Marquis Thermal Spa at the JW Marriott Hotel, Seoul through the end of March. And while you’re there, Citi Cards Premium Dining will get you 10% off a meal at any restaurant at the hotel (except for the deli and banquet).

When asked about the promotion, Citi Cards marketing manager Dal-Hyun Kwak said, “There is a growing consumer interest in health and well-being and the spa has become a preferred retreat for those who want to de-stress and rejuvenate body and mind. Citi Cards will maximize customer satisfaction through promotions such as this that meets customers’ lifestyle needs.”

Citi Cards: citibank.co.kr/eng, Marquis Thermal Spa: 02-6282-6578

ATEK News The Association for Teachers of English in Korea (ATEK) is seeking new officers nationwide. Positions are open at the local and national levels for responsible, communityminded individuals who are interested in helping ATEK improve the lives of English teachers and the community around them through communications, volunteering, English-Korean translation, administration and more. For more information, go to atek. or.kr/roles.

AT E K i s a l s o p l e a s e d t o announce that its president, Jae-hee Oh, has taken a guest spot on Busan eFM 90.5’s program See the World, which airs Thursdays at 5 pm. On this program, she will be giving weekly advice on how to navigate some of the hard-tounderstand aspects of living in Korea, such as the pension system.

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Canadian bellydancer Eshe recently opened a new studio near Hongdae in Seoul called Dream Dance Studio. A three-year resident of South Korea, Eshe has performed at large-scale events throughout the country and has studied intensively in Egypt and Turkey.

Dream Dance Studio offers bellydance classes every day. Styles currently taught include a mix of traditional and modern orientale, Turkish Romani (Gypsy), American tribal style, improvised tribal style, and tribal fusion.

Dance levels range from beginner to advanced with live percussion. Performance opportunities are available for interested students.

Free trial lessons are available, and pricing plans start from W20,000 per class or W60,000 for a monthly pass. eshebellydancer.com Directions to Dream Dance Studio: Turn left out of Mangwon Stn. (line 6, ex. 1) and turn left at the big blue building (first major intersection). The studio is the second building on the right, just past the Mini Stop.

Waegook Cook Adds Books to Its Menu The Waegook Book Library has just opened at Waegook Cook, a restaurant and bar in Gumi that offers Western food and a friendly atmosphere for Koreans and foreigners. Now you can feel even more at home with over 600 secondhand English books to choose from and a renovated chill-out space to relax, read, eat, drink, and everything in between. It has been the longtime dream of book-addict and co-owner, Helena Burbridge, to do something about the lack of access to English books in Korea. “The library really is a labor of love for me. I hope it gets bigger and bigger.”

At the moment, the library largely consists of bestsellers and popular thrillers, though there will be regular additions of new reading material. There is a W10,000 returnable deposit and a fee of W2,000 per book to help the library grow. You can also exchange books for drinks, depending on quality and readability. Waegook Cook is open every day except Monday from 6 pm until late. For directions please visit waegookcook.com or search for them on Facebook.

sh ot b y j u n g - h o N a m

New Studio Gets Hongdae Bellydancers Shimmying

Edited by A ngela lee and Dav i d Ca r ru th

Investors Receive Free Korean Cookbook Daewoo Securities is holding a special promotional offer for financially conscious foreigners and foodies interested in Korean cooking. The first 30 new customers who sign up with Daewoo Securities (WM Class Yeoksam Station Center) will be given Korean Recipes for Multicultural Families, a recipe book that was published

by Daewoo Securities in conjunction with expert researchers on Korean dishes at Sookmyung Women’s University. This book has been translated into 7 different languages (English, Chinese, Vietnamese, Thai, Tagalog, Indonesian and Mongolian) in a conscious effort to cater to the growing multi-cultural community in Korea. This colorful book is filled with 160 pages of useful information and recipes to Korean staples such as kimchi as well as rarer dishes such as chicken soup with ginseng. Those interested in receiving the book can call 02-568-4488 or email kyungsuk.choi@dwsec.com to learn more about this promotion.

Seoul Players Announce 10th Season This year, Seoul Players are celebrating their 10 th anniver sar y, and this season could be their most diverse and ambitious to date. This six-project season features two large-scale musical productions, a dark, edgy comedy, a one-act play competition, a 24-hour theatre festival, and a world premier workshop production in conjunction with Savage Umbrella Theatre of Minneapolis, MN and Seoul’s Workshop Division.

If you’d like to get involved, Seoul Players is always on the look-out for new members to join in the creative fun. There are a wide range of volunteer opportunities available. Just check-out their newly revamped website at www.seoulplayers.com to learn more, or send an e-mail to info@seoulplayers.com.

Jim Lim Elected as New AustCham Chairman The Australian Chamber of Commerce in Korea (AustCham) has elected a new executive committee for 2011, with Jim Lim of Meat & Livestock Australia (MLA) taking the chairman position. Mr. Lim responded to his selection by saying, “I am honoured to have been elected chairman and intend to work closely with all our stakeholders to continue the growth and development of AustCham.” Mr. Lim is replacing outgoing Chairman Sean Rodrigues (Woodside), who held the post for the last three years.

“Sean has done exceptional work as chairman since AustCham’s inception and I would also like to recognise and thank the other executive members for their dedication and support,” added Mr. Lim. austchamkorea.org 10 Magazine March 2011 | 35

Expat News march 2011

Big Show Planned for Stand Up Seoul’s 2nd Anniversary

New Location for Saint Patrick’s Day Festival This year, the Saint Patrick’s Day Festival (held Saturday, March 19th) is moving from its former home at Cheongyecheon Plaza to Insadong. As the Irish Association of Korea’s flagship event, the festival will provide music, dancing and a chance for everyone to experience Irish culture. There won’t be a parade this year, but there will instead be a greater variety of Irish-related performances. Already confirmed are traditional Irish music bands, rock bands playing Irish music, and the dancers who received so much praise during the IAK’s Irish Music and Dance Festival last October. There will also be a chance to watch a demonstration of gaelic games – Ireland’s national sport. Following the main festivities, which last from 11:30 am to 5:30 pm, guests can continue on to the annual Hooley, a musical event well-known for going on into the early hours. The main events are held at Daesung Plaza, located on Insadong Street close to Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex. 6). For more details, see the IAK’s website at iak.co.kr or visit their Facebook page.

March Discount Makes Readers Jump for Joy

On March 3rd at 9 pm, Stand Up Seoul will be hosting a big 2nd anniversary show at Rocky Mountain Tavern. Founded in 2009

by Brian Aylward, Stand Up Seoul has been growing and evolving each month thanks to dedicated expat comics and an appreciative audience. It’s the best Seoul has to offer in expat comedy, taking place the first Thursday of each month. This month’s show, hosted by Erin Weber, will include door prizes and giveaways as a way of thanking fans and comedians.

Stand up Seoul is always looking for new comics to bring the ha has. If interested, contact Erin Weber at standupseoul@gmail. com. They can also be found by searching for “Stand up Seoul” on Facebook.

Jump is a comic non-verbal performance about a family of Korean martial artists. The show, which combines Korean taekwondo, Asian martial arts, slapstick comedy and acrobatics, has been performed at numerous international festivals and venues. And this March, the Jump Seoul theater has planned a White Day event with a special gift of 20% off for 10 Magazine readers. The coupon (found on p. 31) is valid for two people.

Performances are held Mon 8 pm, Tue – Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun and holidays 3 & 6 pm. The Jump theater is located near Jonggak Stn. (line 1, ex. 4) or Jongno 3-ga Stn. (line 3, ex. 15). From the latter, walk 5 minutes and turn left at the Burger King. Before your discount, tickets cost W50,000 – W40,000. hijump.co.kr 02-722-3995

Mike (front) and Cody

Expat Competitors to Join in Universe Korea Body-Building Competition

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This April 30th, Kiwi Cody Hunter and Scotland native Mike Barr will join a very exclusive club. They’ll become some of the first expats ever to participate in Muscle Mania Korea’s Universe Korea bodybuilding competition. Barr will be competing in the under-75 kg class, while Hunter will be in the under-90 kg class. When asked about their motivation for competing, they said, “This competition provides extra focus for training and gives us an extra incentive to really push ourselves. We’ll find out just how strong our bodies can become and just how disciplined our minds can be.” Registration isn’t over yet. If you’d like to test your mettle, visit musclemaniakorea.com or call 031-429-9889 to compete alongside Cody and Mike.

Gastronomic News Edited by A ngela lee and Dav i d Ca r ru th

Popular Samcheong-dong Burger Chain Opens Branch in Itaewon EST 1894, a hamburger franchise which has drawn crowds in Samcheong-dong in Northern Seoul, is opening a new branch in Itaewon. Its unusual name, EST 1894, derives from the fact that the hamburger was invented in 1895. The owners want to rewrite the history of the hamburger, effectively going back to the year before the first hamburger was served up.

The most unique feature of this hamburger place is the “rotagrill,” made by a nationally recognized master craftsman. This special rotating grill slowly turns above volcanic stones from Jeju Island which keep the grill blazing hot at 220˚ C. Patties, buns and onions are all seared to perfection on the grill. Another thing worth checking out is the 10-inch Itaewon Burger, which will test your burgerdevouring capacity.

EST 1894 is located in the back alley of the Itaewon market near Suji’s.

Enter the Sun Tailor alley from Yongsan-gu Office and it will be on your left, 2nd floor. est1894.com 02-792-1894

Pieroth Imports Present the Moninger Extra Dry Pilsner Sometimes when you’re ready to wet your lips, you need something dry. We’re not talking about Hoegaarden or Corona. This is Moninger Extra Dry Pilsner, by the Moninger Brewery in Karlsruhe, Germany, a fresh, crisp, and sparkling brew. It’s the right fit for all connoisseurs of dry German beer accented by hops. Get it at Pieroth Imports. pierothwines.co.kr

Fifth Brew Added to Regular Draft Menu at Craftworks In a very short time, Craftworks Taphouse & Bistro has made a name for itself by serving up great home-grown Korean microbrews that can compete with the best from any land. With their Namsan Pilsner, Baekdusan Hefeweizen, Halla Mountain Golden Ale and Geumgangsan Dark Ale as the core, they have drawn beer aficionados from all over the peninsula to try their handcrafted brews. Seasonal selections are also available, but the most recent seasonal beer was so popular, they just had to make it one of their regular offerings. So say hello to the newly minted Gwanaksan Kölsch. Clear and blonde with a prominent, yet not overbearing hoppiness, this new Kölsch is sure to please the hidden German brewmeister in just about anyone. craftworkstaphouse.com 02-794-ALES 10 Magazine March 2011 | 37

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“We must record these things that were forced upon us.”

– Kim Hak Soon

HouseofSharing

the

www.houseofsharing.org Also, find us on Facebook

The House of Sharing is both a museum and home to former “Comfort Women” — survivors of sexual slavery at the hands of the Japanese military during the Asia-Pacific War (1932-1945).

Upcoming Events: • March 26: 63 Years On — A documentary screening • May 14: Multi-Media Art Exhibition and Fundraiser — A call to all artists for submissions.

• The International Outreach Team leads English tours every month to the House and museum. Please email: visits@houseofsharing.org

March 19th

Far East Movement Live in Seoul

With the single “Like A G6” reaching number 1 on the Billboard charts, Far East Movement (FM) is one of the first successful Asian-American hip-hop groups.

Growing up in the multicultural mix of Los Angeles, FM fused the ethnic flavors of Koreatown to create soulful electro-hop music. While still in high school, members Kev Nish, Prohgress, J-Splif and DJ Virman would gather together in parking lots and practice rapping. As an Asian American hip-hop group, it wasn’t easy for them at all. Audiences would boo them on sight, claiming FM’s music

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SEOUL

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GaNGwon PROVINCE

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GYEONGGI PROVINCE

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CHUNGCHEONG PROVINCE

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GYEONGSANG PROVINCE

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JEOLLA PROVINCE

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JEJU ISLAND

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NETWORKING CALENDAR

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The Town Directed by Ben Affleck

Movies Be n A f f le ck r et u r n s w it h h is se c ond directing feature and doesn’t disappoint with this dark crime caper. Set in and around Charlestown (a neighbourhood in Boston famous for Irish gangsters), the film follows Doug (played by Affleck himself), Jem (Jeremy Renner) and their gang as they rob a bank and take its manager Claire (Rebecca Hall) hostage. They set her free, but Doug follows her and they become friends. Meanwhile the FBI is hot on his heels and Doug wants to get out of the bank robbing business.

Affleck has made a slick and rather gritty crime drama that holds your attention fully for the duration of the film. The robberies and shoot outs will keep you on the edge of your seat, and Affleck and Renner are superb as the criminal blood brothers, but it is the late, great Pete Postlethwaite who steals the show as Fergie the Florist, a rather nasty piece of work who controls Charlestown. This violent love letter to Boston is definitely worth two hours of your time.

b y Pa u l M atthe w s

tastes: if you’re expecting something akin to Christopher Nolan’s Batman franchise, then stay away; but if you’re looking for a quirky, messy comedy that feels like a cross between a 1980s action movie and the 1960s Batman TV series then you’re in for a real treat. It’s over the top, silly fun that’ll entertain you if you’re in the right mood.

Gondry’s usual eccentric cinematic touches are toned down in The Green Hornet, but he still manages to fit in a few bizarre moments. Jay Chou is surprisingly good as the coffee-making, car-pimping martial arts sidekick, and Seth Rogen does what he does best, playing an annoying yet lovable idiot who’s way out of his depth. Christoph Waltz is entertaining as the camp Russian villain Chudnofsky, but Cameron Diaz is given very little to do as the vague love interest.

Go into this film with an open mind and a sense of humour and you’ll get a real buzz,

* * *

The Green Hornet

Directed by Michel Gondry The words “Michel Gondry” and “superhero movie” may seem like an odd combination, but this rather unusual take on the genre is worth a look. After the father of millionaire playboy Britt Reid (Seth Rogen) dies, Britt decides to enter the world of crime fighting. With the help of his trusty manservant Kato (played by Taiwanese actor/pop star Jay Chou), he takes on the criminals of the city with his fleet of armed vintage cars, gas gun and a certain sense of naivety.

This film is not going to suit everyone’s 40 | 10 Magazine March 2011

The Green Hornet

but if you want more serious fare, The Green Hornet lacks the sting you may require.

* * *

He’s On Duty (방가? 방가!)

Directed by Sanghyo Yuk Taeshik Bang (In-gwon Kim) has a rather unusual secret: by day he calls himself Banga and pretends he’s from Bhutan, just so he can get a job (he’s too ugly to be hired as a Korean). He works at a chair factory with a group of illegal migrant workers and manages to convince them and his employer that he’s really Bhutanese. Taeshik falls in love with a Vietnamese employee named Rose (played by Korean actress Hyun-bin Shin), but he doesn’t quite know how to tell her the truth.

He’s On Duty f lirts with both comedy and drama, seemingly unwilling to decide if it wants to be a full-on farce or a serious examination of the lives of migrant workers. With too many unanswered questions, an ending that appears out of nowhere and some rather two-dimensional characters, this is an ultimately disappointing experience. Funny in places, this quirky little film could have been so much better, but ends up a slightly entertaining failure.

He’s On Duty

NATIONWIDE CALENDAR New This Month

Edited by s o n g le e and dav i d ca r ruth

NATIONWIDE

The Adjustment Bureau USA, March 3rd. Romance/thriller. Starring Matt Damon, Emily Blunt and Terence Stamp; directed by George Nolfi. David Norris (Damon) is a popular US congressman who suspects that strange forces are involved in keeping him and his girlfriend apart. The movie is based on “Adjustment Team,” a story first published in 1954 by Philip K. Dick. No doubt, some adjustments have been made. theadjustmentbureau.com The King’s Speech UK, March 3rd. Drama/history. Starring Colin Firth, Geoffrey Rush, and Helena Bonham Carter; directed by Tom Hooper.

In the troubled second half of the 1930s, England looks for a leader.

To fulfill this role, King George VI must overcome his stammer with the aid of a blunt Australian speech therapist. The movie has received 12 Oscar nominations. kingsspeech.com Red Riding Hood USA, March 17th. Drama/fantasy/romance. Starring Amanda Seyfried, Lukas Haas and Gary Oldman; directed by Catherine Hardwicke. From the heroine of the Brothers Grimm tale to Tex Avery’s seductive cartoon character, Little Red Riding Hood has undergone quite a variety of transformations. In the latest, she appears as the young red-cape-wearing Valerie (Seyfried), who lives in a medieval village that is under attack by a werewolf. redridinghood.warnerbros.com Beastly USA, TBA. Drama/fantasy/romance. Starring Alex Pettyfer, Vanessa Hudgens and Mary-Kate Olsen; directed by Daniel Barnz.

Theaters will soon screen yet another fairy tale adaptation (along with Tangled and Red Riding Hood), this time of Beauty and the Beast.

Unlike the Disney animation from 1991, this one brings the story into the present, based on Alex Flynn’s 2007 novel. Disaster befalls handsome high school student Kyle Kingson (Pettyfer) when the girl he rejects turns out to be a witch with a vengeance. beastlythemovie.com

Christian Bale and Mark Wahlberg in The Fighter The Fighter USA, TBA. Biography/drama/sport. Starring Mark Wahlberg, Christian Bale, and Amy Adams; directed by David O. Russell.

The movie follows the career of real-life boxer “Irish Micky Ward” (Wahlberg). However, it is the outside-the-ring struggle of his brother Dicky (Bale), a former boxer brought low by an addiction to cocaine, that steals the show. thefightermovie.com March 3rd Bleak Night 파수꾼 Korea, Drama. Jae-hun Lee, Junyeong Seo; dir. Seong-hyeon Yoon.

Dates are subject to change.

March 3rd Come Rain, Come Shine 사랑한다, 사랑하지 않는다 Korea.

Romance. Bin Hyun, Su-jeong Lim; dir. Yun-gi Lee. saranghanda.co.kr

March 17th The Butterfly Effect 3: Revelations USA. Sci-fi/horror.

Chris Carmack, Rachel Miner and Melissa Jones; dir. Seth Grossman.

March 17th Hanji 달빛 길어올리기 Korea Drama. Su-yeon Kang, Jung-hun Park; dir. Kwon-taek Lim.

March 3rd Dear Pyeongyang 굿바이, 평양 Korea/Japan.

Documentary. Seon-hwa Yang, Geon-hwa Yang; dir. Yeong-hui Yang.

March 17th The Way Back USA Drama. Colin Farrell, Jim Sturgess; dir.

Peter Weir. thewaybackthemovie.com

March 10th Animal Town 애니멀 타운 Korea. Drama. Seong-tae Oh, Jun-hyeok Lee; dir. Gyu-hwan Jeon.

TBA Dangerous Meeting 위험한 상견례 Korea. Comedy. Si-yeong Lee, Sae-byeok Song; dir. Jin-yeong Kim.

March 10th TiMER USA. Sci-fi/ romantic comedy. Emma Caulfield, Michelle Borth; dir. Jac Schaeffer. timerthemovie.com

TBA World Invasion: Battle LA Sci-fi. Aaron Eckhart, Michelle Rodriguez and Bridget Moynahan; dir. Jonathan Liebesman. battlela.com

10 Magazine March 2011 | 41

Monáe per forming at the Austin Music Hall during SXSW, March 20 0 9

Janelle Monáe The ArchAndroid (Suites II and III) Bad Day Records: Atlantic/Warner Following soul diva Janelle Monáe’s debut release Metropolis—in which she established the idea of a concept R&B/soul album—the artist is back with the next installment in the saga. The ArchAndroid has garnered even more kudos than that critically acclaimed EP, and one listen shows why—in spades! Right from the orchestral opening lines, where a Carl Orff-inspired cello intro sets both tone and mood, through the spy thriller theme music that closes the show, Monae packs in so many influences that this album really does go much further

than most standard contemporary R&B recordings. This is truly the most sophisticated R&B album of the last decade, and with true-to-form influences ranging from Stevie Wonder to Angelique Kidjo, and high quality classical, jazz, funk, hip hop, and soul flourishes throughout the album, Monae simply doesn’t put a foot wrong.

This is a certifiable Top 10 of 2010 effort and shows what R&B can be in the hands of someone with verve and imagination.

* * *

Dub Sonata

Nights in Cuba Illest Rated This is another debut release that basically appeared out of the blue just in time to musically kick-start 2011.

The album takes the turntablist approach established by luminaries of the sub-genre like Cut Chemist, Lomax, and C-Mon & Kypski and throws in some offbeat samples gleaned from a wide variety of old Cuban vinyl releases from that nation’s storied musical heritage to create a unique modern musical drama. Dub Sonata tells this story using these vinyl treasures along with assorted real-time instrumentation (horns, double bass, and piano) to create vibrant percussion and incessant vinyl scratches. They craft a beat-laden effort that not only shines a new light on the “underground” hip-hop/turntablism scene, but also blurs the line between that edgier style

MBLAQ

BLAQ Style J.Tune Camp If K-Pop had one recurring problem in 2010, it was the difficulty of translating the magic of singles into full-length albums that ref lect their potency. But what other artists couldn’t accomplish, MBLAQ finally achieved with BLAQ Style, the group’s first full-length album after a year of thriving singles. Produced by veteran pop star Rain, the album boasts a healthy regimen of dance-pop and electro, drawing from the mid-90s canon of free-style synths on tracks like “Wish You Hadn’t” and “Darling,” which avoid sounding like bleeding-heart tributes to angelic females. Those familiar sentiments are saved for singles “Stay” and “Cry,” which offer tears by the weeping spoonful. While there is nothing unique about these more R&B-influenced tracks, their presence remains a balance, rather than a staple, keeping the variety of the tracks as fluid as the album cover. Well-rounded and ultimately enjoyable, BLAQ Style proves a remarkable tribute to both pop songs and the stars who

by A n n a O r z e l produce them. and more mainstream sounds. A wonderful blend of old “New World” music with modern sensibilities—vital and refreshing.

by M i cha e l B e r ry

Books

In Memory of Novelist Park Wan-suh On January 29th, brilliant Korean author Park Wan-suh passed away after a long fight with gallbladder cancer. An international treasure as well a national one, Park had a literary career that spanned thirty years. She wrote more than 20 novels and 100 short stories, a fair proportion of which have been translated into English.

Park was a relatively late-bloomer as a published author, writing her first novel just before she turned 40. The housewife turned into a novelist when her long story Namok (Bare Tree) won a contest organized by a female magazine run by the Donga daily newspaper. In subsequent years, Park became the Grand Dame of Korean letters, receiving the prestigious Yi Sang Literary Award for her novel Mother’s Stake in 1981 and the Korean Literature Award in 1990.

Park’s early work detailed the tragedy of families separated by the Korean War, and the continuing suffering of the survivors of 42 | 10 Magazine March 2011

Park Wan-suh, 1931 – 2011

that conflict is demonstrated in suck works as The Naked Tree, Warm Was the Winter That Year, and Who Ate Up All the Shinga (to which Park has released a second volume, not yet published in English, titled Was the Mountain Really There). From about 1980, Park’s work centered on families, problems affecting women in Korea’s extremely patriarchal society, and biting critiques of the middle class.

Park’s work focused on traumas but in the context of family stories that alternately tugged at the heartstrings and brought

smiles of recognition. Park’s indirectly political strategy means that readers who know Korean history and culture can tie her works into the implied historical context, while newcomers to Korean history can understand them within the narrower context of the family situation.

Last year Park celebrated her 40th anniversary as a novelist. Her last book was an essay on her life as an old-aged writer, named Roads Not Taken Are More Beautiful.

Park’s translated novels include Who Ate Up All the Shinga, which sold some 1.5 million copies in Korean and was well-reviewed in English translation, and Weathered Blossom, a touching story of love late in life.

Park is also published in The Red Room: Stories of Trauma in Contemporary Korea.

At the time of her death, Park lived in the village of Acha, in Guri, outside of the hustle and bustle of Seoul. Her writing was touching, literary, clever and a sparkling window into Korean history and culture.

She will be missed and cannot be replaced.

For more information on Park’s work, and where to find it, see ktlit.com/?p=2735.

Tech

b y S ta ff o r d L u ms d e n

Crack the QR Code With one click, QR codes offer smart phone users contact information, websites, and more.

You may have noticed them cropping up in advertising, on the sides of buses and even street signs—strange black-and-white pixelated boxes that look like some madman’s attempt at a crossword. What are they? QR Codes.

Originally an alternative for tracking car parts and other inventory, the QR (standing for “quick response”) code is akin to the more recognizable barcode but can provide

nationwide Hotlines Emergency 119 Police 112 Directory Assistance 114 Medical Information Center 1339 This is a 24-hour, nationwide hospital information service available in English, Korean, Chinese and Japanese.

much more information. With a scanner and the right software, you can obtain phone numbers, web addresses and text from the little black and white boxes.

The most recent and growing use for QR codes is “mobile tagging,” which allows smartphone users to take a picture of the code with their phone’s camera and then access the information. Apple, Android, Nokia and Blackberry all support QR codes and have a number of apps available to decipher them.

While there are a number of stand-alone apps in the iTunes store, iPhone users in Korea might have more luck using Daum’s free portal application. Amongst its many features, the QR code reader allows users to take a picture of the QR code with their iPhone and automatically decides whether it needs to open a web page or display contact information.

Another alternative that works on iPhone, Android and Windows Mobile is QRooQRoo (free from the iTunes App Store), which also scans regular barcodes and is great for comparison shopping while you’re

Citibank citibank.co.kr Deutsche Bank Bank of America Bank of China BNP Paribas

bnpparibas.co.kr HSBC

in the store.

On the Android platform, there are also a number of interesting stand-alone options.

Aside from QRoo QRoo (mentioned above), perhaps your best bet is Google Goggles (free from the Android Marketplace) which will read QR codes and bar codes, handles text recognition, and even brings up a Google search page for just about anything you take a picture of – landmarks, famous people, art, you name it! (Note that most if not all QR code scanners will need a connection to the Internet to do anything other than render simple text and contact information.)

So the next time you see that jumble of black and white boxes, you won’t have to wonder what it is. Grab your phone and snap a picture - you might be surprised what information is hidden in plain view!

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Foreigner Assistance/Translation BBB 24-hour Language Assistance

1588-5644 KTO Tourism 24-hr Infoline 1330 Korea Immigration immigration.go.kr 1345 Korean Customs customs.go.kr 1577-8577 Seoul Dasan (city info) 02-120

Investment Assistance KOTRA kotra.or.kr Invest Korea investkorea.org

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Korean Banks Shinhan Bank Seoul Global Center 1st Floor, Seoul Finance Center 84 Taepyungro 1-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul 02773-3131 Korea Exchange Bank (KEB 외환은행) keb.co.kr 02-729-0114 SC First Bank (SC 제일은행) scfirstbank.com 02-3702-3114

Major Foreign Banks American Express americanexpress.co.kr 02-2000-8100 Australia & New Zealand Banking Group 02-3700-3100 China Construction Bank ccbseoul.com 02-6730-1718

Villa Orchid

Experience the wealth of opportunities, wondrous sights and cultural sounds that Seoul has to offer, while enjoying the luxury and comforts of a Gold Standard serviced residence and knowing that every need is well taken care of. Fraser Place Central Seoul. The retreat within a city, your home away from home.

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10 Magazine March 2011 | 43

SEOUL Samgyeopsal salad

Food Review

The Charm of Bistro Seoul W o r ds and sh ots b y J o e mc p h e r s o n

Seoul Bistro boasts an intimate atmosphere and savory starters, but the mains may disappoint.

W

e all have our favorite momand-pop sikdang, where the food is good and cheap. That’s one of the great things about living in Korea. Putting Korean food into a fine dining setting has been a great challenge. Most of the time it’s not successful. Many places don’t “get it.” Increasing prices and using more expensive plates can’t make a restaurant fine when the food and service don’t impress.

I was expecting something like this when venturing into Bistro Seoul, a new upscale Korean concept by the same folks who gave us Mad for Garlic. The interior is a good start. Subtle lighting and clean lines create a greater sense of intimacy and let diners relax and concentrate on the food.

The service is a great improvement over what you normally get in a restaurant without a bell at the table. Servers are attentive and helpful. They know the dishes on the menu and easily get answers to questions they don’t know. That sounds logical, but it’s regularly a hassle to get servers in other restaurants to go in the kitchen and ask questions.

Bistro Seoul’s strength is its appetizers.

They’re unique and tasty. The samgyeopsal salad comes out with thin slices of chilled pork, shredded sesame leaves and vegetables. It’s dressed tableside in a tangy ginger dressing. The guljeon, Korean-style egg-fried oysters, are plump and creamy.

They are perfect little joys (though only available in the winter).

The show-stopping dish was the hanchi carpaccio. Thin slices of squid and grassy seaweed are placed on the plate with mushrooms and flower petals like an Eng-

lish garden. There’s a soy lemon sauce supporting the act, but there was this mysterious flavor that kept us going back for more. Some investigation with the server revealed that it was a particular type of sesame oil.

The mains were where Bistro Seoul moved into the pretentious side. Most are dishes you can find in some form at typical Korean restaurants for a quarter of the price. The charcoal-grilled pork with doenjang was dry and sliced so thin that it got cold immediately. Eight slivers for W28,500? That’s a main?

The kimchi jjim with pork back ribs was cheaper (W11,500) and more satisfying, but aside from having ribs instead of pork belly chunks, it was no different than what you’d find at your typical makgeolli hof.

Despite this, Bistro Seoul is a good date restaurant and ideal for meetings with friends. They have some good makgeolli on the menu, so if you stick to that and the appetizers, you’re in for a good evening.

10 Magazine reimburses reviewers for their meals and never notifies restaurants that they will be reviewed.

English menu Not allowed Basically zero options Accessible Accepted Great appetizers, makgeolli and atmosphere Mains are overpriced and sparse W9,200 - W48,900 02-3466-8022 bistroseoul.com

Hanchi carpaccio 44 | 10 Magazine March 2011

Charcoal-grilled pork with doenjang

Table setting at Seoul Bistro

Oakwood Premier COEX Center 1F, 159 Samseong-dong, Gangnam-gu.

Samseong Stn. (line 2, ex. 5) 11:30 am – 11 pm

FOODIE FINDS

Getting Lost in the Pages While flipping through dust-covered books and souvenir parchments in the markets of Insadong, stop here for a treat you won’t forget.

Although book cafes have become trendy institutions across Seoul, Insadong’s Between Pages is humble and homey. A long glass-top table runs down the centre of the cafÊ, perfect for a group of friends looking for a break from the crowds outside. Or, if you are feeling more intimate, grab a corner seat and a magazine or a candle-lit window seat for two. Whether you’re looking for a relaxing chat or a romantic moment, Between Pages has the spot for you.

The sweets on the menu are easily the stars of the show. Freshmade waffles come with two mountains of ice-cream, making one order easily a feast for three, and their New York-style cheesecake is the perfect partner for one of their sweet potato lattes. Tea grannies will not be disappointed as the menu features a small army of herbal options spanning the rainbow from green to pink.

The sweets and lattes inside are certainly a treat, but the walk to Between Pages is just as charming. On the journey up to the cafe on the fourth floor of Ssamziegil (ěŒˆě§€ę¸¸) (an outdoor shopping complex and living work of art), you will pass colorful graffiti, strange statues and a number of unique boutiques selling an assortment of clothes, jewelry, candles and more. It’s not often this kind of modernity meshes so well with the traditional atmosphere of a place like Insadong, but the cozy spirit of Between Pages is right at home in the historical market.

Take ex. 6 of Anguk Stn. (line 3) and turn left on the main pedestrian road. Ssamziegil complex is 150 meters ahead on the left. www.betweenpages.co.kr 02-725-0230

Getting There

Words and shots by C u rt i s F i l e

Best Sandwich Deal in Seoul It’s high time we talked about High Street Market. Located in Hannam-dong, across the street from Marrakech Nights and the Cheil Building, HMS promises to be a regular stop for rare imported goods. The refrigerator cases contain pastrami, corned beef and cuts of beef at competitive prices. Another strength of HSM lies in its baked goods and sandwiches. At just W7,000, their sandwiches du jour are packed with shaved roast beef, fresh mozzarella, horseradish sauce and other quality ingredients, making them the perfect on-the-go lunch stop in the ‘Twon. Their tasteful candies and gifts are good alternatives to the garish baskets sold on White Day (March 14th). Find it on the left about a five minute walk from Itaewon Stn. (line 6, ex. 2). highstreetmarket2010@ gmail.com words by Joe McPh erson, shot by Dyla n Goldby

All The Sports You Can Handle Under One Roof!

8 Giant Flat-Screen TVs – Not a Bad Seat in the House

Mexican Mondays W1,000 Tacos*, Specials on Margaritas, Nachos & Tequila

Tuesdays W500 BBQ Pork Ribs*

Wednesdays Hockey Night in Itaewon with Tailgating BBQ W5,000 Hotdog + OB W5,500 Burger + OB W5,500 Chili + OB Additional W3,000 Hotdog, W3,500 Hamburger or Chili Thirsty Thursdays W1,500 OB Draft ‘til 10 pm

Saturday & Sunday Build Your Own Brunch from 11 - 3 pm *with drink purchase (10-rib minimum)

Put Your Stomach Where Your Mouth Is...

Finish our 72 oz (2kg) Rib-eye Steak Challenge under an hour and Sam Ryan's Picks Up The Tab!

Business Hours

Mon – Fri: 4 pm ‘til Late Sat – Sun: 10:30 am ‘til Real Late t TBNSZBO DPN

10 Magazine March 2011 | 45

SEOUL DISCOVERIES

SEOUL

n ig h t l i f e

Cocktails Poured

by Rain Himself This place is more chilled out than Wooderson at a Kho Phangan Full Moon Party.

Plush white leather couches. A solid blend of house, ambient, and laid-back K-pop deep cuts. Expertly crafted and unique cocktails. Bar Mojito just may be the best lounge in Korea. I almost have to pinch myself to remember that I’m not in Itaewon, not in Hongdae, not in Gangnam, not in Haeundae.

Nope, this is Nowon. What? No one goes to Nowon! How can this sort of thing happen here?

It all starts with Rain. Not the famous pop star, but the owner/ DJ/chief mixologist who shares his English nickname. Rain has long been famous around Nowon for mixing the finest cocktail in town. He’s taken full advantage of his chance to run his own shop by providing an atmosphere and quality of drink unavailable at any bar within a 15 kilometer radius. For Nowon-gu residents, he’s a godsend. For late-nighters in Dobong-gu, Gangbuk-gu, Seongbuk-gu, and Uijangbu, Mojito provides an alternative to the usual Ap-hong-twon-nam Saturday night, without the hour-long subway ride there and the 20k+ taxi fare home.

Mojito is by no means an expat bar; most nights, the majority of clientele is Korean. The bar features higher-end drinks mixed with top-shelf spirits that range from W8,000 - W12,000. However, Mojito is decidedly foreigner-friendly and far from the typical hof atmosphere. Most bartenders speak some English, and there’s a real bar to sit at as well as tables and iPad menus in both English and Korean. And, of course, there’s Rain.

Take line 4 or 7 to Nowon Stn. and make a U-turn out of exit 2. Pass the GS25 and the following alley. Turn right into the first building entrance after the alley. Mojito is on the 2nd floor.

Words and shots by T o dd B ru n s 7 pm - late, 02-938-5589

Getting There

From left: Chili martini image on iPad, Rain (right) with patron

46 | 10 Magazine March 2011

SEOUL CALENDAR E di t or’ s Pick

SEOUL

Seoul Fashion Week

7 Days of Korean Fashion Bliss March 25th – 31st

Fashion

Blogger, model, photographer, stylist, fashionista: whatever you call him, Chad Burton captures the Korean fashion zeitgeist like none other. We caught up with the man Harper’s Bazaar says we shouldn’t take lightly “just because he can work skinny jeans” to find out more about Seoul Fashion Week, Korea’s biggest fashion event.

P e t e r How did you get into the Korean fashion scene?

C h a d I just enjoyed seeing what everyone was wearing in areas like Hongdae and Myeongdong and at some of the underground parties that were happening a few years ago, so I wanted to document that and started blogging. I randomly started modeling for an online shopping site. The blogging and the modeling developed independently but eventually became somewhat intertwined.

Proudly supplied by Kobeak Foods©

What do you think will be the best shows at Seoul Fashion Week this March?

C For men’s I always look forward to MVIO by Han Sang Hyuk—he has never failed to impress me—and the Centaur

by Han. Also, the men’s shows always outshine the women’s with a few exceptions.

P

What would you say to someone who has never been?

Any tips?

C Tickets are cheap and easy to get in Seoul, basically the price of a movie. But try to book at least a week ahead because they can sell out quickly. Get the day pass if possible so you don’t have to pick and choose designers you aren’t familiar with. Also, dress the part. Don’t show up at fashion week in your regular work clothes, please!

P

Chad Burton on the runway

Event Details W h at Fall/Winter 2011-12 Collection P r o g r a m Seoul Collection, Generation Next, Seoul Fashion Fair W h e r e SETEC (Seoul Trade Exhibition Center) and KRING in Gangnam For tickets and more i n f o seoulfashionweek.org Chad’s blog

thexoxokids.com Words by Pet er DeMa rco photos courtesy of Chad Bu rton

10 Magazine March 2011 | 47

SEOUL CALENDAR Design & Fashion March 5th Platoon Kunsthalle Night Flea Market Usually held the first Saturday of every month, this flea market is a fantastic chance to pick up a few accessories to enhance your wardrobe. Platoon is located in Apgujeong near Hakdong Stn. (line 7, ex. 10). Confirm date on website. 8 pm – 12 am. kunsthalle.com 02-3447-1191

Art

SEOUL

Through March 1st Korda: A Revolutionary Lens You know that picture of revolutionary Che Guevara that appears on so many t-shirts? That was shot by Alberto Korda, one of Cuba’s most influential photographers. COEX 1st floor near Samseong Stn. (line 2, ex. 5 & 6). 10 am - 7 pm. W4,000 - W10,000. kordaphoto.co.kr 1588-1555 Picasso and Modern Art The creative organization of this exhibit makes the often confusing work of Picasso and other modern artists more accessible to the public. Deoksu Palace 1st & 2nd floors near City Hall Stn. (lines 1 & 2, ex.

3 & 12). Tue - Thu 9 am - 7 pm, Fri - Sun 9 am - 8:30 pm. W3,000 - W11,000. pam.chosun.com 02-757-3002 Robert Delpire and Friends Photography Exhibition See various photographs and a film by Delpire and his friends, including Robert Frank Henri Cartier-Bresson and William Klein.

Hangaram Art Museum at the Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Bus Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). Adults W10,000, students W8,000, children W5,000. 11 am – 5 pm (3 pm on the last day). sac.or.kr 02-710-0765 Trick Art Interact with the world of art through these quirky optical illusions and imitations of famous paintings. Garden 5 near Jangji Stn. (line 8, exit 3). 10 am - 7 pm. W4,000 - W10,000. trucart.com 1577-3462

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Through March 6th Ahn Chang Hong: An Inconvenient Truth Gana Art Center near Gyeongbokgung Stn. (line 3, ex. 3). ganaart.com 02-720-1020 Versailles Palace Exhibition Pieces from the collection of Versailles are on display, including the paintings and sculptures of the last monarchs of France. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Bus Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 11 am - 7 pm. Adults W13,000, students W10,000, children W8,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300

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Vietnamese Palace Exhibition A rare chance to get a glimpse of clothing and items of the Vietnamese Nguyen Dynasty. National Palace Museum of Korea near Gyeongbokgung Stn. (line 5, ex. 5). Weekdays 9 am - 6 pm. Weekends & Holidays 9 am - 7 pm. Closed Mon. Free. gogung.go.kr 02-3701-7500 Through March 13th Hundertwasser Exhibition Anyone interested in architecture, graphic design, or environmentalism will find these pieces

by Austrian painter and artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser inspiring. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Bus Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Through March 14th The Design Ethos of Dieter Rams Learn more about German design with this retrospective on 40 years of work by Dieter Rams. Daelim Contemporary Art Museum near Gyeongbokgung Stn. (line

3, ex. 4). 10 am – 6 pm. www. daelimmuseum.org 02-720-0667 Eurasian Culture Exhibition Compare the daily lives of medieval Russian peasants and Joseon Dynasty Koreans in this exhibit sponsored by both countries. National Folk Museum near Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex. 1). 9 am - 5 pm (6 pm in March). Closed Tue. Free. nfm.go.kr 02-3704-3114 Through March 20th Bhutan Exhibition The small nation of Bhutan, easy to miss next to its massive neighbors China and India, is the only country in the world to measure the happiness of its citizens (through the Gross National Happiness measure). Located at the Dongdaemun History and Culture Park. museum.seoul.kr 02-2286-3410 Through March 30th “Miracle Art” Exhibit Famous paintings with a twist! This exhibit takes a light-hearted approach to great art by presenting optical illusions that bring the painting out of the frame. aT Center in Gangnam. W10,000 - W20,000. www.atcenter.co.kr 02-6300-1114 Through March 31st “Heukja” Porcelain Exhibition This exhibition for Heukja, black porcelain from the Goryeo Dynasty, offers a rare glimpse into this special ceramic art. It features about 60 pieces of heukja used for everyday life storage from the Joseon and Goryeo Dynasties. Horim Art Center in Sinsa-dong near Sinsa Stn. (line 3, exit 1). Closed Mon. Adults W8,000, teenagers W5,000. 10:30 am - 6 pm. horimartcenter.org 02-541-3525 Through April 3rd Silkroad and Dunhuang Exhibit This exhibit presents the history of the Silk Road that connected the East and West through an examination of the writings of 8th century Korean monk Hyecho.

National Museum of Korea. Ichon Stn. (line 4 & Gyeongui, ex. 2). Tues, Thurs, & Fri 9 am – 6 pm. Wed & Sat 9 am – 9 pm.

Sun & Holidays 9 am – 7 pm. Adults W10,000, students W8,000 - W9,000, children W5,000. Closed Mon. Free. museum.go.kr 02-2077-9000 Through September 11th Ethnic Earthenware from the Asian Heart Earthen sculptures are the focus of this exhibit, which tries to get to the bottom of what it means to be Asian.

National Museum of Korea near Ichon Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Tue, Wed, Fri 9 am – 6 pm. Wed, Sat 9 am – 8 pm. Sun 9 am – 7 pm. museum.go.kr 02-2077-9000 March 1st - April 17th Record of Filial Duty and Courtesy: Joseon Dynasty Epitaphs Artifacts from the Joseon dynasty will be showcased.

National Museum of Korea near Ichon Stn. (line 4 & Gyeongui, ex. 2). Closed Mon. Free. museum.go.kr 02-2077-9000 March 2nd - 13th Exhibition of Yeong-il Eum Gallery Through in Itaewon. 11 am - 7 pm.

Closed Mon. through.co.kr 02-798-1900 March 4th - 13th International Drawing Exhibition Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5).11 am - 8 pm. Free. sac.or.kr 02-599-5743 March 9th - 15th Saimdang Shin and Yul-gok Lee Calligraphy Exhibition Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 11 am - 8 pm. sac.or.kr 02-599-5743 March 18th - 31st Sortino Exhibition Gallery Through in

Itaewon. 11 am - 7 pm. Closed Mon. through.co.kr 02-798-1900 March 19th - 31st “Healing Graphism” Exhibit by Buyong Hwang Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 11 am - 8 pm. Free. sac.or.kr 010-9331-5904

Miso Chongdong Theater presents Miso, a story of one woman’s encounter with love told through traditional dance, percussion, and music. City Hall Stn. (lines 1, 2), 4 & 8 pm. Closed Mon. W30,000 – W50,000. miso.mct.or.kr 02-751-1500

SEOUL

March 26th - May 22nd Karsh Exhibition Photographer Yousuf Karsh had a gift of capturing the essence of his subject in his portraits. He photographed many of the celebrated personalities of his generation. This exhibition includes about 100 photos taken between 1930 - 1990, featuring Winston Churchil, Andy Warhol, Chagall, Audrey Hepburn, Elizabeth Taylor, and others. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Bus Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5) sac.or.kr 02-792-2633

Legend of Flower This romantic tale of two lovers redefines what a performance can be with stunning sound effects, tantalizing aromas, holographs, and more. Walkerhill Theatre at the Sheraton Grande Walkerhill. Mon – Sat 5:30 & 7 pm. W60,000 and up. legendofflower.com 02-455-5000

Theater & Dance Ongoing The Ballerina Who Loved a B-Boy This story of a would-be ballerina who falls for a b-boy street dancer is a genrebending mash-up of break dance and ballet. Lotte World Art Hall at Jamsil Stn. (line 2). Wed – Thu 8 pm, Fri 5 & 8 pm, Sat – Sun 3 & 6 pm. Closed Mon & Tue. W50,000. showbboy.com 02-2266-3727 Battle B-Boy Romance at a dance tournament serves as the setting for this exhibition of awesome dance routines and soaring aerial moves. B-Boy Theater Samjin B/D B1 in Hongdae. Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 6 pm, Sun and holidays 2 & 6 pm. W50,000. sjbboys.com 02-323-5233 Drawing Show Art exhibit or performance? The drawing show is as fun to watch as it is hard to classify.

Drawing Show now presents a totally new show named “Hero” at a different location. Myungbo Art Hall in Chungmuro in Seoul (Chungmuro Station, ex. 7).

Weekdays 8 pm, Sat 4 & 7 pm, Sun 3 & 6 pm. Closed Mon. W40,000 - W50,000. drawingtheater.com 02-766-7848 Drum Cat These 6 Korean ladies may dress a bit provocatively, but their musical ability will chase away any doubts, or raised eyebrows, once the performance begins. Myungbo Art Hall - Haram Hall (Jung-gu). Tues - Sat 4 & 10 pm. Sun & holidays 4 pm. Closed Mon. W40,000 - W50,000. drumcat.co.kr 02-586-8489 Fanta-stick This slapstick nonverbal show offers young ones lots of laughs.

Located at the 63 Building in Yeouido.

Tue - Sun 8 pm. W32,000 - W50,000. fanta-stick.co.kr 02-789-5664 Folk Perfomances Performances like traditional dances, gut (exorcism rites), and Korean classical music, are held every Saturday at 2 pm. National Folk Museum at Gyeongbok Palace. 3 pm.

Museum admission gives free access to the performances. nfm.go.kr 2-3704-3114

Nanta This kitchen percussion extravaganza is the non-verbal stage show that nearly everyone sees at least once. Two Seoul locations and performances almost daily. Refer to website for more details. W50,000 – W60,000. nanta.co.kr 02-739-8288 Pan An exciting combination of Korean folk songs and percussion of all kinds.

Gwanghwamun Art Hall. Wed - Fri 8 pm.

Weekends and holidays at 2 pm. Closed Mon and Tue. 90 min. W30,000 - W50,000. ghmarthall.co.kr 02-722-3416 Sa-Choom This non-verbal dance performance tells the story of three friends’ coming of age. Insadong near Jongno 3-ga Stn. (lines 1, 3, & 5, ex. 5). Tue – Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 7:30 pm, Sun 4 pm. W50,000. lovedance.co.kr 070-8249-3023 Through March 20th Legally Blonde: The Musical COEX at Samseong Stn. (line 2, exit 5 & 6). W50,000 - W90,000. Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 3 pm & 7 pm, Sun 2 pm & 6 pm.

02-6000-0114 Through March 31st Jekyll and Hyde: The Musical Based on the novel The Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde by Robert Louis Stevenson. In Korean. Charlotte Theater near Jamsil Stn (line 2, ex. 3). Tue - Fri 8 pm. Sat 3 & 7 pm. Sun 2 & 6 pm. Closed Mon. Check the website for more details on dates and times. W50,000 W130,000. jekyllnhyde.co.kr 1644-0078 March 18th - 20th Das Rheingold: The Opera Hoam Art Hall near City Hall (lines 1 & 2, ex. 9). Fri 7:30pm, Sat 1 pm & 6 pm, Sun 2 pm.

W25,000. hoamarthall.org 02-751-9606

Jump First performed in 2003, this non-verbal show combines a comic story with martial arts moves and impressive visuals. Downtown near Jonggak Stn. Mon 8 pm, Tue – Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun 3 & 6 pm. W40,000 – W50,000. hijump.co.kr 02-722-3995

March 25th - 28th Don Quixote: The Ballet Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). Weekdays 7:30 pm, Sat 3:30 pm & 7:30 pm, Sun 2 pm & 5:30 pm. W10,000 W100,000. sac.or.kr 02-599-5743

Korea House Performance Head over to the Korea House for two daily performances based on traditional Korean culture. You can also sample Korean royal cuisine before the show. Chungmuro Stn. (lines 3 & 4, ex. 3). 7 – 8 pm, 8:50 – 9:50 pm. Dinner price starts at W68,000.

Performance is W50,000. kangkoku.or.kr 02-2266-9101

Starting April 6th Cirque du Soleil: Varekai This traveling show is wrapping up its 3-month production in Taipei and preparing for a move to Seoul. Aerial straps, trapeze, handbalancing, juggling, and other mainstays of the circus are used to tell the story of a wanderer lost in a deep and mysterious forest. Jamsil Sports Complex.

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10 Magazine March 2011 | 49

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Concert

Continued from page 39 didn’t sound like the “American hip-hop” they were used to.

FM has come a long way from putting up fliers for their own concerts. The song “Round Round” won the group fame when it was featured in the Hollywood movie The Fast and the Furious: Tokyo Drift and its soundtrack, video game and DVD. Since then, the group has been featured on network shows including CSI:NY, Entourage, and Gossip Girl. They’ve also performed on Power 106’s Powerhouse, one of the biggest hip-hop concerts on the West Coast, alongside Jay-Z, Pitbull, and The Black Eyed Peas. This year’s world tour will bring the group to Seoul so you can join the movement. Vista Hall at the Sheraton Walkerhill Hotel, near Gwangnaru Stn. (line 5).

9 pm. W88,000. ticket.interpark.com/global 02-323-2838 Words by J i - s u n M o o n

Weekdays 8 pm, Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun 2 & 6 pm, closed Mon. W60,000 - W220,000. cirquedusoleil.com 02-541-6235

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Concerts Ongoing Saturday Chamber Music Enjoy your Saturday afternoon sipping a cup of coffee as you listen to great classical pieces played by the chamber orchestra at KT Chamber Hall in Mokdong. This event occurs every other Saturday. This month: 3/12 & 3/26. 4 pm. ktchamberhall.com 02-3414-2063 March 2nd Fourplay: 20th Anniversary Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W55,000 W132,000. sac.or.kr 02-599-5743 March 3rd Music from Scandinavia Featuring the Chamber Music Society of Kumho Art Hall, performing at Kumho Art Hall near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 7). 8 pm.

W30,000, students W8,000. kumhoarthall.co.kr 02-6303-7700

TAKE OUT MON-THU 5PM-2AM

Cheil worldwide 제일기획

Itaewon Fire Station 이태원 소방서

FRI/SAT 4PM-3AM SUN 4PM-2AM 50 | 10 Magazine March 2011

02-794-5598

Hamilton Hotel 해밀턴 호텔

The Primo Cantante Korean American Friendship Concert The program includes Carmina Burana No. 1, “Amazing Grace,” and “Ave Maria.” Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W30,000 W100,000. sac.or.kr 02-599-5743 V-Day Seoul Concert Keep the party going with Pinnacle & The Antidote and the Rock Tigers while supporting a worthwhile cause. DGBD in Hongdae.

W10,000. vdayseoul.com vdayseoul@gmail.com March 3rd - 4th The Whitest Boy Alive This German-

Norwegian band features the talented Erlend Øye. Their indie style is versatile but focuses on electronic with amazing guitar solos. V-Hall in Hongdae. Fri 8 pm, Sat 7 pm. W77,000. 02-457-5114 March 5th

Eagles Live The classic rock band most famous for “Hotel California” are making their first visit to Korea for a concert at Gymnastics Stadium at Olympic Park. 8 pm. W99,000 - W330,000. ticket. interpark.com 1544-1555 Haegeum Recital Featuring Ye-yeon Lee. Kumho Art Hall near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 7). 8 pm.

W10,000, students W8,000. kumhoarthall.co.kr 02-6303-7700 March 6th Maksim Mrvica Live in Seoul This Croatian pianist is known for his classic crossover music. Watch as his piercing blue eyes, and amazing piano skills, seduce the audience. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5).

2 pm. W55,000 - W110,000. sac.or.kr.

02-599-5743 March 7th Heesung Kim Pipe Organ Recital The program includes Alain’s Litanies, Bach’s Sonata in E flat Major No. 1, Franck’s Grande Piece Symphonique Op. 17 and Saint-Saens’ Le Carnaval des Animaux. Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). 7:30

pm. W20,000 - W50,000. sejongpac.or.kr 1544-1887 March 7th - 8th

Hall near City Hall (lines 1 & 2, ex. 9). 8 pm. W25,000 - W40,000. hoamarthall.org 02-751-9606 March 18th Fran Healy Concert Fran Healy is better known as the lead singer for the popular Brit-rock band Travis. V-Hall in Hongdae. 8:30 pm. W88,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-457-5114 March 20th

March 9th Santana in Concert This MexicanAmerican musician is the pioneer of rock, salsa and jazz fusion. Experience the music of one of the greatest guitarists in the world. Gymnastics Arena at Olympic Park near Olympic Park Stn. (line 5, ex.

3). 8 pm. W132,000 - W165,000. ticket.interpark.com 1544-1555 March 10th Corinne Bailey Rae Concert Corinne Bailey Rae is a critically acclaimed singer-songwriter and guitarist from England. AX-Korea near Gwangnaru Stn. (line 5, ex. 2). W110,000. 8:30 pm. ax-korea.com 02-457-5114 The Great 3B Series - Brahms The program includes Brahms’ Violin and Cello Concerto in Minor Op. 102 and Symphony No. 1 in C minor Op. 68.

Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W20,000 W40,000. sac.or.kr 02-599-5743 Iron Maiden in Concert This British heavy metal band will stop in Seoul on their “Final Frontier” world tour.

Gymnastics Arena at Olympic Park near Olympic Park Stn. (line 5, ex. 3). 8 pm.

W99,000. ticket.interpark.com 1544-1555 March 12th - 13th Yoon-kwon Na Concert This South Korean singer is known for singles like “Let It Snow” and “First Love.” Universal Art Center near Achasan Stn. (line 5, ex.

4). Sat 7 pm, Sun 4 pm. W77,000 W154,000. uac.co.kr 070-7124-1740 Jang-hun Kim Concert with the Czech Philharmonic Orchestra Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). Sat 8 pm, Sun 6 pm.

W50,000 - W150,000. sejongpac.or.kr 1544-1887 March 13th Laurent Korcia Concert Catch this highly regarded French violinist at the Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 2 pm. W30,000 W90,000. sac.or.kr 02-599-5743 Steve Barakatt Concert Hailing from Canada, this composer, music producer, pianist and singer has played at live shows all over the world. For a decade, he studied classical music then quickly became enamored with jazz. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W30,000 - W100,000. sac. or.kr 02-599-5743 Angélique Kidjo Concert LG Arts Center near Yeoksam Stn. (line 2, ex. 7). 6 pm. W30,000 - W70,000. lgart.com 02-2005-0114 March 15th Ensemble TIMF: Préludes Hoam Art

Slash Live Concert The former lead guitarist for metal band Guns N’ Roses is set to perform at AX-Korea near Gwangnaru Stn. (line 5, ex. 2). W99,000.

6:00 pm. ax-korea.com 02-457-5114

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March 22nd Afternoon Gugak Performance National Theater of Korea. Shuttle available from Dongguk University Stn. (line 3, ex. 6). 11 am. W10,000. ntok.go.kr 02-2280-4114 March 23rd “The Winds” Ensemble: Spring Concert Hoam Art Hall near City Hall (lines 1 & 2, ex. 9). 8 pm. W25,000 - W40,000. hoamarthall.org 02-751-9606 Yoonsun Park Concert Seoul Arts Center near Yeoksam Stn. (line 2, ex. 7).

8 pm. W30,000 - W70,000. lgart.com 02-2005-0114 March 23rd - 24th Seoul Choir Concert: “Restaurant” Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). 7:30 pm. W5,000 W20,000. sejongpac.or.kr 1544-1887 March 24th Seoul Philharmonic Orchestra`s Explorer Series I Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5).

8 pm. W10,000 - W50,000. sac.or.kr 02-599-5743 March 26th - 27th I Went to the House but Did Not Enter: Musical Play Featuring the Hilliard Ensemble. Arts Center near Yeoksam Stn. (line 2, ex. 7). 7 pm. W30,000 - W90,000. lgart.com 02-2005-0114 March 27th Caracas Youth Orchestra of Venezuela Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W30,000 - W100,000. sac.or.kr 02-599-5743 March 28th Korean Chamber Orchestra Regular Concert Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm.

W20,000 - W100,000. sac.or.kr 02-599-5743

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10 Magazine March 2011 | 51

SEOUL

Leipzig Gewandhaus Orchestra The first night’s program focuses on pieces by Dvorak, while the second night features Bruckner’s 8th sympohny.

Riccardo Chailly conducts. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W50,000 - W300,000. sac.or.kr 02-599-5743

SEOUL CALENDAR superstar. Gymnastics Arena at Olympic Park. 8 pm. W60,000 - W150,000. ticket.interpark.com 1544-1555 April 1st MGMT Live in Seoul MGMT is an American psychedelic rock band based in Brooklyn, New York. They blend the eclectic sounds of psychedelic pop, synth pop and alternative rock to create a sound all of their own. Ax-Korea near Gwangnaru Stn. (line 5, ex. 2). 8:30 pm. W99,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-323-283

Film

SEOUL

Ongoing 8mm: Art Cinema Every other Wednesday night, Laughing Tree Gallery hosts a free movie night featuring documentaries and art films. Bring your own drinks. Laughing Tree Gallery is located in Haebangchon near Noksapyeong Stn. (line 6). “8mm: Art Cinema” on Facebook, Jessica@LaughingTree.com Mummies 3D: Secrets of the Pharaohs Are you daring enough to unwrap the ancient secrets of the pharaohs that have been locked away for many centuries? 63 Building, 63 Art Hall Digital 3D Film Section. W11,000 - W12,000.

Please visit the website for screening schedule. 63.co.kr 02-789-5663 March 9th V-Day Movie Night Learn how The Vagina Monologues evolved into a worldwide phenomenon with this documentary screening of V-Day: Until the Violence Stops at Platoon Kunsthalle in Apgujeong. 8 pm. In English with Korean subtitles. vdayseoul.com

Family & Community March 13th CHAT! Discussion Group The Seoul Global Study Group holds an informal meeting on the 2nd Sunday of each month for members to discuss important topics. Meet at the Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf across from the Hamilton Hotel near Itaewon Stn. (line 6). seoulsg2.com seoulstudy@gmail.com

Education & Conferences Ongoing KOICA Global Village: Africa Africa may be wracked with poverty, but it is also a location of enormous potential. Learn more at this exhibit. 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. blog.naver. com/geovillage 02-3460-5800 Weekly Lecture on Buddhism Curious about the practice of Zen Buddhism? English lectures by Zen Master Subul Sunim and others will prove enlightening. 2:30 - 4:30 pm every Saturday except national holidays. Anguk Zen Center, 5 minutes on foot from Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex. 2). angukzen.org 011-229-2829 March 9th - 12th Seoul International Sourcing Fair Hall C at COEX at Samseong Stn. (line 2, exit 5 & 6). 10 am - 6 pm. sipremium.com 02-6000-0114 March 17th - 20th Korea Medical Hospital Equipment Show Hall A & B at COEX at Samseong Stn. (line 2, exit 5 & 6). W7,000. 10 am - 6 pm. www.kimes.kr/kr/default.asp 02-6000-0114 March 23rd Bruno Groening’s Circle of Friends Everyone is welcome to participate in Dr. Knoeringer’s lecture “Healing on the

52 | 10 Magazine March 2011

Spiritual Path by the teaching of Bruno Groening, medically verifiable”.

Baekyang Hall at Yonsei University, Room #211 at Shinchon Stn. (line 2, ex.

2 & 3). Free. 7 pm. bruno-groening.org gtenberg@asiamail.com March 24th - 27th Good Sleep Fair 2011 Trouble sleeping?

This expo may be of help. Hall D at COEX at Samseong Stn. (line 2, exit 5 & 6).

Thurs - Sat 10 am - 6 pm, Sun 10 am - 5 pm. goodsleepfair.com 02-6000-0114 March 24th - 28th Seoul Living Design Fair Hall A & B at COEX at Samseong Stn. (line 2, exit 5 & 6). www.livingdesignfair. co.kr 02-6000-0114

Sport & Fitness

K-League Football March 6th Seoul vs Suwon at Seoul World Cup Stadium, 2 pm.

Dozens of volleyball and basketball games are scheduled for this month.

Volleyball games are listed on the website at kovo.co.kr (mostly Korean, though English schedules are also listed). Men’s basketball games are listed on kbl.or.kr (Korean only) and women’s games at wkbl.or.kr (also Korean only).

March 4th - 6th Seoul Bike Show This event is Korea’s largest bicycle exhibition. Hall C at COEX at Samseong Stn. (line 2, exit 5 & 6). 10 am - 6 pm. seoulbikeshow.com 02-6000-0114 March 19th Boramae Park Marathon 5k, 10k, half, and full, to depart at 9 am from Boramae Park. W15,000 W25,000. Register by March 15th. tourmarathon.com 1644-4219 March 31st - April 3rd Korea Golf Show With over 220 companies and 800 booths, amateur and pro-golfers are sure to find this exhibition helpful. Halls A & B at COEX at Samseong Stn. (line 2, exit 5 & 6). 10 am - 6 pm, Sun 10 am - 5 pm. W5,000. Free with online registration. kogolf.co.kr 02-6000-0114 April 3rd LIG Korea Open Marathon 10k, half, and full along with a children’s run and a charity walk. Starts at 9 am.

Main stadium at Jamsil. Register by March 11th. koreaopenmarathon.com 02-542-0596 April 17th Hankyoreh Half Marathon 5k, 10k, and half, to depart at 9 am from Sangam World Cup Stadium. Register by March 18th. hanirun.com 02-785-0582 April 30th Universe Korea Participants from more than 20 countries are gathering in Seoul to show off their hot bods and cut muscles. The categories for competition include modeling, muscle mania, figure, and Miss Bikini. Sign up now if you’d like to compete. Seoul Gangnam Citizens’ Center near Daechi Stn. (line 3, ex.6). 9

E di t or’ s Pick

SEOUL

When the Lights Go Out Do you know what it’s like to be blind?

Ongoing

Family & Community

The ongoing interactive experience Dialogue in the Dark, running in 110 cities worldwide, recreates the lives of the visually impaired through high-quality simulations of everyday activities conducted in total blackness.

Before entering the activity space, you remove all sources of light and receive a red-tipped cane. Afterwards, you enter the blackout space, the first of several large soundstages, and meet your blind guide. After struggling to find their hand to shake in the dark, you are led through what are normally mundane tasks. A trip through the park, over bridges, and the hazardous task of crossing a busy city street prove adrenalineinducing. Activities also include grocery shopping, a department store visit, and a trip over the Han River. During the process, you form a close bond with your guide and hear their story. There is also a sit-down chat over coffee (drinks are free) in a pitch-black café.

After about an hour, you say your farewells in the dark and leave your guide behind, with both parties having had identical sensory experiences of each other. The cost of this unique experience is W30,000 and worth every won, as the exhibit employs 11 blind employees full-time. As your eyes adjust to the light upon leaving, the world of sight feels far richer than before. It is also impossible to forget the sensation of being completely helpless and having a blind person lead you deftly through the blackness: literally the blind leading the blind.

Getting There

Start at Sinchon Stn. (line 2) and walk straight 50 meters out of ex. 3. It’s in the Vertigo Building on your right, 9th floor.

Tue – Sun 11 am – 7 pm. You must make reservations in advance.

Words and shots by Ia n H e n d e r s o n 02-313-9977

10 Magazine March 2011 | 53

SEOUL CALENDAR am. W10,000. musclemaniakorea.com 031-429-9889

Dine & Drink Ongoing Korean Cooking Classes and Market Tour Learn authentic Korean cuisine in English from a Korean chef. Classes held at the O’ngo Cooking Studio near Insadong (Nakwon Sangga). After class, tour the market for your ingredients.

Classes include dakgalbi (red chili chicken), haemul pajeon (seafood pancake), bulgogi, bibimbap, and more.

Mon – Friday. 10 am, 2 pm, and 4 pm. ongofood.com 02-3446-1607.

SEOUL

Korean Night Dining Tour Take a crash course on Korea’s late-night food and drinking culture. Start at Gwangjang Market and continue to historic Jongno 3-ga where you can eat Korean BBQ, drink makgeolli (rice wine) and dine at a pochamacha (tent restaurant). W80,000 per person (3 people minimum) includes tax, food, drinks, and guide. Available nightly from 5 - 9 pm. ongofood.com 02-3446-1607.

Korea Taste Tour Experience culture through cuisine! With your culinary guide, visit a Buddhist-inspired Korean restaurant, get a quick tour of Insadong eateries, stop by a teahouse, and enjoy rice wine and Korean bar food snacks.

W80,000 per person includes tax, food, drinks, and tour guide. Tours are usually Thu – Sun (3 people minimum) 12 – 3 pm. ongofood.com 02-3446-1607.

Saturday Korean Cooking Classes.

This month, O’ngo Culinary School will be offering Saturday cooking classes for those hoping to learn Korean cuisine and meet other foodies. Learn Korean favorites throughout the month as you get a deeper understanding of the techniques of Korean cuisine from our award-winning chefs. March 5th: kimchi and bulgogi. March 12th: dakdoritang and vegetable side dishes. March 19th: dolsot bibimbap and bean sprout soup.

W55,000 a class or W135,000 for three classes. Saturday 11 am or 3 pm. ongofood.com 02-3446-1607 March 12th Fermentation Celebration Farmer’s market meets science fair at this fermented foods free-for-all. Sample delicious fermented treats, including beer, cheese, makkeoli, kombucha, and more - all home-made! Some items will be available for purchase. Craftworks Taphouse near Noksapyeong Stn. (line 6). 1 - 5 pm. W4,000 admission lets you sample everything on display. craftworkstaphouse.com 02-794-2537

Nightlife Ongoing Quiz Night at Craftworks Every Wednesday. Great prizes including W50,000 bar tab for 1st place. craftworkstaphouse.com 02-794-2537 Rhyme Time: Spoken Word and Poetry Every 2nd and 4th Thursday, head to Tony’s Aussie Bar in Itaewon for a literary evening. 8 pm. tonysitaewon.com 02-790-0793 March 1st Mardi Gras “Fat Tuesday” Paty Copacabana in Itaewon. 7 pm - 10 pm. copacabanagrill.kr 010-7196-4262 March 3rd First Friday Afterwork Party Ark Lounge in Chungdam. afterworkseoul.com

54 | 10 Magazine March 2011

Orientation Party for Top 12 Colleges Club Rococo in Itaewon. 9 pm. W20,000 with 1 free drink. skyevents.info@gmail. com 010-7401-1989 Stand Up Seoul Comedy Night Korea’s finest English language comedians deliver monologues and rants about expat life and other topics.

New acts are welcome! The show starts at 9 pm on every first Thursday of each month at the Rocky Mountain Tavern in Itaewon. Facebook: Stand Up Seoul, james.hershberger@gmail.com March 4th French Attack with Alan Gay Get musically attacked by an up and coming French DJ and producer from Paris. He is part of the Young Gunz. Club Mansion in Hongdae. brokenteeth.kr/alangay March 5th Andrew Fletcher Fletcher is co-founder of English band Depeche Mode. Club Eden in Gangnam. eden-club.co.kr 02-6447-0042 Spring Singles Extravaganza Night Oi Lounge in Hongdae. 9 pm. W10,000 includes a free drink. Ladies free before 10 pm. global.asia@yahoo.com Traffic Light Party Oi Lounge in Hongdae. W10,000. 9 pm. dateupkorea@yahoo.com March 11th Grand Opening of Club Volume Volume regularly hosts top international DJs. Newly renovated, it boasts a new Function One sound system and impressive laser displays. Club Volume in Itaewon. clubvolume.com 010-5183-8222 March 12th Hold Me, Caress Me, Kiss Me, and Love Me Party Oi Lounge in Hongdae.

10 pm. W10,000. 010-9093-3988 March 19th Vitalic The maestro of French disco, Vitalic makes his first visit to Korea.

Mansion in Hongdae. 10 pm. W30,000 includes a free drink. mansionseoul@gmail.com March 25th HSK Party Club Volume in Itaewon. clubvolume.com 010-5183-8222

Travel Ongoing Palace Tours The International Exchange and Cultural Promotion Institute (ICI) organizes free English tours at Deoksugung Palace with youth volunteers as your guides. Tours take place every 2nd and 4th Saturday at 10 am & 2:30 pm. W1,000 for admission to the palace. ici@icworld.or.kr 02-3210-3266 March 5th - 6th Hotel Party and IPA Brewing Day Enjoy a BBQ at the brewery in the afternoon and then head to the hotel for dinner, drinks, and entertainment. Sanjang Hotel in Gapyeong, Gyeonggi Province. craftworks.taphouse@gmail.com March 6th Caving and Ferry Riding Ride a ferry on Chungju Lake and explore Gosu cave, two of the natural highlights near Danyang-gun. W48,000. adventurekorea.com 018-242-5536 March 19th - 20th Seorak Mountain and Osaek Hot Springs Trip Get dirty on the trails and wash off at the spa. W105,000. adventurekorea.com 018-242-5536

SEOUL DIRECTORY

Seoul American Forces Network

AM 1530 / FM 102.7

Automobiles

Transportation

International Taxi (English Speaking)

1644-2255 Jumbo Taxi Service (more expensive)

02-888-2000 Interactive Subway Map smrt.co.kr Travel Agencies

NEW CARS FOR LEASE Gyung Bok Agency

010-3524-8260 Gyung Bok Agency Take the wheel of a premium Hyundai with the Gyung Bok Agency’s lease program. 1-year, 2-year, and 3-year leases available.

921-1 Daechi-Dong, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul. Contact Chief Sales Manager Hank Jo at 010-3524-8260.

Insurance

SEOUL

Cosmo.jin Tour cosmojin.com Fides Travel fidestravel.co.kr

02-318-0345 02-755-5470

Discover the World’s Best Deal!!!

F L I G H T H O T E L PA C K A G E

ITAEWON TEL: 02.796.9633, 9636 JNCTRAVEL@NAVER.COM

JNC Travel Itaewon Itching to travel?

This travel agent offers worldwide discount air tickets, hotels, professional counseling, and package goods. Mon - Fri 10 am - 7 pm, Sat 10 am - 5 pm, Sun 1 - 5 pm.

02-796-9633 Unique Travel Itaewon uniquetravel.co.kr 02-792-0606 Xanadu Travel xanadu.co.kr 02-795-7771 Korean Tours

t $"3 .0503$:$-& t

INSURANCE For A Free Quote,

Call Byung at 010-3232-0625 or Email: byung625@gmail.com Samsung Fire and Marine Insurance Automobile and motorcycle insurance provided by one of Korea’s most reliable conglomerates. Also available; Life/ Annuities, Business/Fire, Supplemental Medical, Travel Insurance. 010-3232-0625 Foreigner Assistance

ATEK (Association for Teachers of English in Korea) atek.or.kr Seoul Dasan (City Info) 02-120 Seoul Global Center global.seoul.go.kr 02-1688-0120 Yeoksam English 02-3453-9038 Yeonnam Chinese 02-6406-8151 Seorae French 02-570-6009 Ichon Japanese 02-2199-8882 Itaewon/Hannam English

02-2199-8883~5 Radio

TBS eFM

FM 101.3

Adventure Korea adventurekorea.com 018-242-5536 Korean Safari koreansafari.com 019-542-2955 Korean Cooking Classes with Ms. Chang Want to do more than sightseeing? How about taking a Korean cooking class? This is your chance to experience the everyday meals of a Korean family. koreancookingclasses. blogspot.com 010-7193-2068 O’ngo Culinary Tours Korean food tours and cooking classes in Seoul.

Tours and classes are taught by Korean food experts. Experience the culture through the cuisine. ongofood.com 010-6661-7769 Royal Asiatic Society Korea Branch raskb.com 02-763-9483 USO DMZ Tours affiliates.uso.org/korea 02-795-3028 WOW Corea Tour wowcoreatour.com 02-739-3337 Hotels/Accommodations

KoreaHotel.com Korea’s version of Expedia. koreahotel.com 4-5 Star Hotels Astoria 02-2268-7111 COEX InterContinental 02-3452-2500 Courtyard 02-2638-3000 Grand InterContinental 02-555-5656 JW Marriott 02-6282-6262 Millenium Hilton 02-753-7788 Renaissance 02-555-0501

10 Magazine March 2011 | 55

SEOUL DIRECTORY 02-3451-8000

Ritz-Carlton Hostels

Guest House Baenang Yongsan ghbaenang.com 010-9071-4641 Guesthouse Korea Jongno guesthouseinkorea.com 02-3674-2205 Bebop Guesthouse Hongdae bebop-guesthouse.com, 070-8261-4835 Kim’s Guesthouse Hongdae kimsguesthouse.com 02-337-9894 Namu Guesthouse Hongdae namugh.co.kr 070-8291-4878 Olympic Parktel Jamsil parktel.co.kr/english 02-410-2114 Seoul Backpackers Myeongdong seoulbackpackers.com 02-3672-1972

Korea HIV/AIDS Prevention & Support Center khap.org 02-927-4322 Ra Dental Clinic 02-569-8745 Tufts Dental Clinic 02-553-7512

Onnuri Church 02-793-9686 Presbyterian Church of the Lord empcl.org 010-2266-6453 Somang Presbyterian 02-512-9191 Seoul Union Church 02-333-7393 Yoido Full Gospel Church 02-782-4851 Yongsan Baptist Church 02-796-0284 Classes

Cafes

Museums

SEOUL

Gahoe Museum gahoemuseum.org 02-741-0466 World Jewelry Museum wjmuseum.com 02-730-1610 Kimchi Field Museum kimchimuseum.co.kr 02-6002-6456 Kyung-in Museum of Fine Art Kyunginart.co.kr 02-733-4448 Leeum Samsung Museum of Art leeum.org 02-2014-6901 Museum of Korean Traditional Music ncktpa.go.kr 02-580-3130 National Folk Museum nfm.go.kr 02-3704-3114 National Museum of Korea museum.go.kr 02-2077-9000 National Palace Museum of Korea gogung.go.kr 02-3701-7500 Seoul Art Center sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Seoul Museum of Art seoulmoa.seoul.go.kr 02-120 Seoul National Science Museum ssm.go.kr 02-3668-2200 War Memorial warmemo.or.kr 02-709-3139 Medical Services

A Plus Dental aplusdental.co.kr 02-3442-7616 Hus Hu Dental & Skin Clinic hus-hu.com 02-519-8013

Jaseng Hospital of Oriental Medicine Are you suffering from back or neck pain? Visit the non-surgical spinal specialists. jaseng.net 02-3218-2167 Korea Counseling Psychological Association krcpa.or.kr 02-498-8293

56 | 10 Magazine March 2011

Salsa Lessons in English Top Bar near Apgujeong St. Call Crys at 010-4755-4728 Sanirang Alpine Networks This climbing service offers lessons, clinics, and guided tours. sanirang.net/about. html, info@sanirang.net Suseonjae Meditation and Deep Breathing Classes jihye@suseonjae.org 019-201-5958 Wise-Up Workouts Lose weight and get lean in less than 30 days guaranteed? Author and creator of the No. 1 gym-free program is now in Korea. 1 to 1 service. Grab the book “Wise-Up Workouts” at www. wiseupworkouts.com 010-4998-8722

Caffé Bene Whether it’s coffee, gelato, or a waffle you’re looking for, you can find it at one of the 400 Caffé Bene outlets across Korea. caffebene.co.kr

02-3438-6888 Access Consciousness What if the life you imagined was actually possible?

Regular classes held in Seoul & around Korea. Contact Nate at 010-6285-6283 or nhkent@gmail.com

WY Dentistry Gangnam Better than your dentist back home. Dr. Yoo is a US-trained and licensed dentist with over 20 years of clinical dental experience serving the expat community since 1996. wydent.com 02-514-5575 Religious

Buddhist Seoul International Zen Center seoulzen.org 02-900-4326 Vairocana International Buddhist Meditation Center 02-735-5347 Jetavana Meditation Center jetavanacenter@gmail.com 02-595-5115 Catholic Bomun 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Chunma 02-765-0870 Dongducheon 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Hannam International Church English, Italian, Spanish, French 02-793-2070 Hyewha-dong Catholic Church

02-764-0221 (press 6) Jinjob 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Keumchon 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Philippine Center Tagalog 02-765-0870 Pastral Center for Labor English, Vietnamese, Thai 02-924-2721 Salesio Labor Center Tagalog, Daelim 1 dong 02-765-0870 Sung-dong Social Welfare Center Tagalog 02-765-0870 Yoksam-dong Church 02-553-0801 Catholics in South Korea Facebook Group, Annamarie at sunshineamore25@gmail.com Islam Seoul Central Masjid 02-794-7307 Protestant Gwanglim Church 02-2056-5732 International Lutheran 02-794-6274 Jubilee Church 02-569-2293 Kumnan Church 02-490-7000 Myungsung Presbyterian

02-440-9000 New Philadelphia Church newphiladelphiachurch.com 02-706-2501

Bikram Yoga Gangnam Feel the 105°F heat of the original Bikram Yoga with 90-minute classes taught by passionate instructors. Behind the Kyobo Tower building, Sinnonhyeon Stn. (line 9, ex.

7). bikramyogakorea.co.kr 02-532-2101 Bellydance Lessons with Eshe Morning, afternoon, and evening classes, plus Sunday classes at the Well Being Studio. navah@live.com Fine Art Class Myeongdong 7 -1 pm Fridays. cafe.daum.net/artd

02-771-2026

Power.Diet.Yoga

Caribou Coffee Popular in America, Caribou Coffee has expanded to Korea with locations at Ewha University, Sinchon, Yangjae, and Incheon Airport.

Support fair trade with the Rainforest Alliance Certified coffee sold here. cariboukorea.co.kr 02-3461-5680 Restaurants

American Chili King Itaewon Beefy burgers and chili served up by owner Kevin Cyr.

02-795-1303 Bonji Bistro Just behind Itaewon Hotel and under Gecko’s Garden, Bonji Bistro offers a terrific menu of salads, sandwiches, pastas and classic tapas along with an unbeatable bar. The floor-to-ceiling window door-walls open wide, making it the perfect place to be for their delicious weekend brunch. geckosterrace.com 02-795-9656 The Frypan 02-794-5598 Gallery Through Head here to enjoy fantastic meals, parties, art, and people.

02-798-1900

Ballet.Stretching Ballet Stretching Itaewon Dance your days away with a diverse selection of classes available: child ballet, yoga, tae bo, yoga for pregnant women, pilates, diet dance, and even salsa classes.

Private training available. Mon–Fri open 9 am–10 pm. 124-7 Itaewon-dong, yongsan-gu. 010-9309-9021 International Guides of Korea Courses in ice climbing, rock climbing and more. iguidekorea.com Jai Center for Yoga and Health jaicenter.co.kr 02-3443-9642 Pottery Classes at Yido Academy Gahoe-dong in Seoul. Fri 10 - 12 am. yidostyle@hanmail.net 02-744-0756

Gecko’s Terrace The original Itaewon foreigner hangout, with a comfortable atmosphere, delicious food including great sandwiches, salads and pasta, and English-speaking staff that know how to make cocktails and shots right. geckosterrace.com 02-749-9425 Gecko’s Garden Legendary for its gorgeous home-style atmosphere, Gecko’s Garden has now started

SEOUL DIRECTORY

The Pizza Peel Itaewon Offering fresh classic Italian and Western-style pizzas. Enjoy with beer or wine. We are hard to find but easy to remember!

Dine in or take out.

02-795-3283 Suji’s Itaewon Great American fare in a New York-style bistro atmosphere. sujis.net 02-797-3698

All day american breakfast

IBK BANK

DAESUNG CHURCH

GYEONGRIDAN NOKSAPYEONG STATION

T.G. Brunch Cafe Chef Choi from Hawaii serves a delightful brunch along with his signature burgers, sandwiches, and more. Wine W2,500 for ladies.

Wednesdays wing night: 10 for W3,000.

02-749-8005 Toque Itaewon 02-794-3834 Austrian Chef Meili Itaewon 02-797-3820 BRAZILIAN Copacabana Itaewon For only W29,000 you get all-you-can-eat of 7 different cuts of roasted meat and a tremendous Brazilian buffet. Make your reservations today!

02-796-1660 Bulgarian Zelen Itaewon 02-749-0600 Chinese Ho Lee Chow Serving up the best North American-style Chinatown cuisine in Korea since 1998, with 5 convenient locations in the greater Seoul area to serve you. holeechow.co.kr. Itaewon 02-793-0802, Apgujeong 02-514-1730 Jamshil 02-411-0688, Dogok 02-34614468, Bundang 02-711-9071 French La Cigale Monmartre Itaewon

Le Saint-Ex Itaewon Italian

02-796-1244 02-795-2465

SEOUL

offering a delicious buffet, with steaks and pasta made to order. Don’t worry; the tapas menu is also still alive and well. geckosterrace.com 02-790-0540 Hollywood Grill The place for Premier League Football and other sports, Hollywood has a great menu of pizza, pasta and steaks along with darts, foosball, pool and Golden Tee. hollywoodgrill.co.kr 02-749-1659 Naked Grill Terrific Mexican food, salads and steaks, cooked up to order in a trendy atmosphere. hollywoodgrill.co.kr 02-749-1659 Pancakes Original Story Itaewon Mon – Sat 9 am – 10 pm. 02-794-0508 Pita Time Haebangchon The salads, pitas and pizzas here provide a low-calorie, healthy meal. 11 am - 10 pm. pitatime.co.kr 02-790-8891

Antonio’s Apgujeong Join chef Sebastiano Giangregorio for an authentic Italian culinary experience. Live jazz performances: Tuesday–Saturday, starting at 7:30 pm and Sunday at 1 pm. 93-8 Cheongdam-dong Gangnamgu. antonios.kr 02-3443-4333 Fradia Gangnam Gaze out on a panoramic view of the Seoul skyline as you dine on choice Italian food at this cafe floating on the Han River. fradia.co.kr 02-3477-0033 La Bocca Itaewon We can’t decide whether it’s a cafe, pastry shop, deli, or wine bar, but what we are sure about is that the food is fresh and the taste is divine. labocca.co.kr 02-790-5907 Sortino’s Cucina Itaewon Classic Italian trattoria cuisine in a comfortable, homey atmosphere.

02-797-0488 Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong 02-790-0776 Villa Sortino’s Itaewon An incredible Tuscan Villa interior matches perfectly with some delicately prepared Italian flavors. Just across from the Itaewon fire station.

02-553-900 korean Bulgogi Brothers Delicious Koreanstyle barbecue at locations throughout Seoul including Gangnam, Myeongdong (02-319-3351), Seoul Station, and Times Square. 11:30 am - 10 pm. bulgogibros.com Pulhyanggi Gangnam A tasty concoction of traditional Korean dishes and a contemporary slow-food sensibility, plus performances in the evenings. Close to COEX. 11 am – 10 pm. pulhyanggi.co.kr 02-539-3390 Mexican Amigos Itaewon 02-795-9711 On the Border The #1 American chain hits that craving for fajitas, chimichangas, tacos, burritos, enchiladas and even margaritas. ontheborder.co.kr Sinchon: 02-324-0682 COEX: 02-565-0682 Times Square: 02-2672-0682 Pancho’s Itaewon 02-792-4767 Taco Amigo Itaewon 02-749-5253 Tomatillo Grill Locations at Jonggak Stn., Samseong Stn., and Yeoksam Stn. tomatillo.co.kr 02-734-9225

10 Magazine March 2011 | 57

SEOUL DIRECTORY

SEOUL

Middle Eastern Istanbul Noksapyeong 02-796-0271 Marakech Nights Itaewon 02-795-9441 Petra Itaewon 02-790-4433 SPANISH Bodega Jamsil With flamenco on every Friday. bodega.co.kr 02-3432-8686 Thai Buddha’s Belly Itaewon A lounge atmosphere with full bar and cocktails along with great authentic Thai food.

02-796-9330 Eat Me Itaewon Thai fusion dining and lounge, late night kitchen in Itaewon.

Relax in the intimate yet casual dining area and outside patio. Sophisticated atmosphere is sure to please.

070-7624-3149 My Thai Itaewon 02-794-8090 Thai Orchid Itaewon 02-517-1135 Thai Garden Itaewon 02-792-8836

Bar Rouge Itaewon Luxurious wine and tapas bar in the basement of the JW Marriot in Gangnam. Happy hour Tue - Thu 6 - 9 pm.

02-6282-6763

TWO GREAT LOCATIONS

BA R SHINCHON

Bars/Lounges/Pubs

Wine Bars Dulce Y Suave Garosugil Stop by this classy Sinsa-dong wine bar for an extensive wine list that won’t break your budget. 5 pm - 3 am. club.cyworld. com/dulceysuave.

02-515-6750 Vin Ga Apgujeong Immaculate service and a subdued atmosphere make this the wine bar of choice for dinner parties and business meetings. Podo Plaza building near Apgujeong St. podoplaza.co.kr 02-516-1761 Lounges / PUBS 3 Alley Pub Itaewon Rub shoulders with long-term Seoul expats and try your hands at darts or pool in this comfortable foreigner-owned pub.

116-15 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu.

3alleypub.com 02-749-3336

PII T AZE WZ A ON TEL:(02)7920007

Beer O’Clock The bar in Sinchon has darts and several sports on big-screen TVs with great food. The Kyeongnidan location will satisfy your Canadian-style pizza needs. Beer O’Clock serves up good times.

Sinchon: 02-333-9733 Berlin Noksapyeong Combining a restaurant, cafe and lounge, Berlin boasts a varied menu, plus wines and all types of music. Noksapyeong St. (line 6). 457-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. awakeinseoul@gmail.com 02-749-0903

Between Itaewon This multi-level lounge serves contemporary Italian and Spanish mains, lunch, brunch and tapas in a sophisticated atmosphere with live DJs and a spacious terrace. 124-7 Yongsangu, Itaewon-dong.

02-795-6164 Bliss Itaewon Fresh beats by DJ Shine and a reasonably priced menu.

Itaewon. 4 pm – 4 am.

02-798-1125

The Bungalow Itaewon This quirky beach-themed bar has sand on the floor, swinging chairs, and candle-lit rooms.

02-793-2344

Advertise in our Directory!

It’s inexpensive and helps expats and tourists find YOU! marketing@10magazine.asia or 02-3447-1610 58 | 10 Magazine March 2011

IBK BANK

NOKSAPYEONG STATION The Concorde Classic and cozy, this wine and martini bar offers an intimate and timeless atmosphere. Reuben sandwiches, quiche, soups and salads available till 1:00 am.

02-749-1210 Dillinger’s A classic-styled bar with seven beers on tap, great food and drink specials. Come enjoy our large flatscreen TVs, dartboards and Wii games. A great atmosphere for you and your friends.

02-793-7232 Ghetto Vox Itaewon Itaewon’s first art and music space. 32-5 (3rd floor) Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. ghettovox.com 010-3370-2979 Mike’s Cabin Sinchon This Western bar has a casual atmosphere and holds special events. Near the Yonsei University front gate.

02-325-7808 Monghwan Sinchon Come for the nice décor, live art and music events, and the signature cocktail soju. club. cyworld.com/monghwan 02-325-6218 Monkey Beach Apgujeong Thailand is just a subway ride away if you head to Monkey Beach. 7:30 pm – 5 am.

02-548-7930 Mix Lounge Garosu-gil It may look like a white greenhouse, but it’s actually a bar serving killer mojitos, lychee martinis and more. 6 pm – 3 am.

Closed Sun. 011-9650-7055 Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong Great home-style Italian cuisine with late night cocktail lounge.

02-790-0776 Platoon Kunsthalle Apgujeong Showcasing underground artists and a fine selection of cutting-edge performances. 11 am – 1 am. Closed Sun. 97-22 Gangnam-gu, Nonhyeondong. kunsthalle.com 02-3447-1191 Rocky Mountain Tavern Itaewon Canadians feel right at home with all the hockey jerseys hanging on the walls and great live music and events, along with some of the best buffalo wings in Korea.

Don’t miss the Stand Up Seoul comedy night the first Thursday of each month. rockymountaintavern.com 010-5775-2327 Roofers Itaewon Come hang out in a warm, friendly atmosphere. Sample the mouthwatering menu, relax on the spacious rooftop and enjoy numerous expat events. Facebook: Roofers Rooftop Bar. 02-749-2970 Sam Ryan’s Itaewon This newcomer to the Itaewon scene offers sports fans eight flat screens throughout the bar along with the meanest plate of pork ribs to be found in Seoul. samryans.com 02-749-7933 Scrooge Pub/Dicken’s Lounge Itaewon A great little sports bar with pool, darts, delicious food and plenty of English-speaking staff. 02-797-8201 Seventy Four Cheongdam-dong A beautiful date spot featuring exotic drinks such as cheese martinis, banana mojitos and cuba libres.

7 pm – 4 am.

02-542-7412

Tony’s Aussie Bar & Bistro Itaewon Home of W6000 Guinness & Kilkenny on tap. Non–smoking environment with authentic Aussie food, beer & wine with Monday open mic and Wednesday comedy night. tonysitaewon.com

02-790-0793 Watts on Tap Sinchon Check out the parties, language exchange nights, and live music nights. 6 pm – 2 am. club.cyworld. nate.com/wattsontap 02-3142-8439 Wolfhound Itaewon Terrific Irish/British classic food in a true Irish Pub atmosphere, including shepherd’s pie, toad in a hole, fish n’ chips, bangers n’ mash along with Guinness and Kilkenny on draft. wolfhoundpub.com 02-749-7971 Live Music

Jazz All That Jazz Itaewon 02-795-5701 Cheonnyeondongando (천년동안도) Daehangno (Hyehwa St. Line4) chunnyun.com 02-743-5555 Club Evans Hongdae clubevans.com 02-337-8361 Club Palm Hongdae clubpalm.co.kr 02-336-9016 Once in a Blue Moon Apgujeong onceinabluemoon.co.kr 02-549-5490

InterContinental Hotel Oakwood Premier Woori Bank Teheranno

COEX

BricX Hongdae, Itaewon Chill out at either of BricX’s two locations.

Hongdae 6 pm – 5 am, 마포구 서교동 409-1, B1, 02-3141-5571. Itaewon 7 pm – 5 am, 용산구 이태원동 119-10, B1, bricx.com 02-795-5572 B1 Itaewon One of the most hopping bars in Itaewon on any given night, with guest DJs and a good vibe.

7 pm - 3 am.

02-749-6164

So Much More Apgujeong Combining a hip interior design with the hottest music and the coolest drinks.

Noon - 2 am. blog.naver.com/ so_much_more 02-3447-7890

TEL:(02)3339733

w w w.b eeroc lock . c a

Wang Thai Itaewon Prepared by locally trained chefs, Wang Thai offers only the best of Thai food. Enjoy delicious food in an exotic ambience.

02-749-2746~7

Coffee Bar K Cheongdam-dong A Japanese franchise, they may just have the best bartenders in town. Mon – Sat 6 pm - 2 am.

02-516-1970

Hyundai Department Store

LINE Line 22 Samseong Stn.

Tokyo Jazz Authentic jazz music performed Mon-Sat, 9:30 pm - 12:30 am by European, American, and Korean musicians. Two minute’s walking distance from the COEX and Grand InterContinental Hotels. 153-44 Samsung-dong.

02-3453-4472

Rock Freebird Hongdae cafe.navercom/ clubfreebird 02-335-4576 Jammers Hongdae jammers.co.kr 02- 325-3914 Just Blues Apgujeong justblues.co.kr 02-542-4788 SoundHolic Hongdae cafe.daum.net/ SoundHolic 02-3142-4233 Clubs

Club Hamilton Hotel Fire Station

n

n Statio

Itaewo

KB Bank

[ Itaewon Station Exit 3 ] Tel: 793.2333

America Latina Itaewon opens at 8 pm Wednesdays to Sundays and offers Salsa classes. Check Facebook group: Club America Latina in Seoul.

Answer Cheongdam-dong After a shortlived stint as gala restaurant Le Nuit Blanche, the club we all know and love is back. clubanswer.co.kr 02-514-4311 Ben @Blue Spirit Hongdae Great Japanese curry during the day and soju cocktails at night. Hit up the weekend parties. 360-18 SeokyoDong, Mapo-Gu. 02-3142-5301 Eden Gangnam Mega club with top DJs, sizzling sound, and model nights. 역삼동 602 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnamgu, Ritz Carlton Hotel. eden-club.co.kr 010-9913-3919 Function Itaewon The boutique club hidden in the fancy Macaroni Market restaurant. Tue, Wed, Thu 6 pm – 2:30 am; Fri and Sat 6 pm-3:30 am. 737-50 Hannnam1-dong Yongsan-gu.

02-749-9181 Heaven Gangnam The newest member of Seoul’s club scene combines top-notch technology with divine DJs spinning house and electro beats.

W30,000 general admission, W40,000 for after club hours. Near Yeoksam St. clubheaven.co.kr 02-3444-4997 J.J. Mahoney’s The drinks don’t come cheap, but this nightclub at the Grand Hyatt is a favorite with the over-30s crowd. 747-7 Hannam 2-dong. seoul.grand.hyatt.com 02-797-1234 Koobar @Blue Spirit Apgujeong Hip music for a classy crowd. 664-11 Shinsadong, Gangnam-gu.

02-518-5115 M2 Hongdae This long-running club is party central for college students. Sun – Thu 8 pm – 4 am, Fri and Sat 7:30 pm – 6 am. Cover starts at W10,000.

367-11 Seogyo-dong Mapo-gu. ohoo.net/m2 02-3143-7573 Mansion Hongdae This new club pumps out sizzling house, electro, and nu-disco grooves, bringing in quality acts like Roni Size and Goldie. mansionseoul@gmail. com 02-3143-4037 Mass Gangnam The dance club for the “masses.” 9 pm – 6 am. Sun – Thu W15,000, Fri and Sat W20,000. clubmass.net 02-599-3165 NB Hongdae, Gangnam Supposedly the first hip-hop club in Korea, it has one bar, two stages, and a packed crowd. clubnb.com 02-326-1716 Pulse Itaewon This chilled-out club pumps out danceable tunes in all genres of electronic music until sunrise.

Everyday 8 pm – 7 am. Fri W10,000,

SEOUL

Police Station

Sat W15,000.

02-792-6662 Q-vo Hongdae A popular hip hop club with strobes pulsing above the dance floor. Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun 8 pm – 4 am and Wed, Fri, Sat 8 pm – 6:30 am.

W10,000 - W15,000. 121-210 Ohoo B/ D 367-1 Seogyo Dong. clubqvo.co.kr 02-3143-7573 Saab Hongdae Fashion-conscious twenty-somethings congregate here for a wide variety of music styles.

Weekdays 6 pm – 4 am, weekends 6 pm – 6 am. W10,000 cover on weekends.

02-324-6929 Volume Itaewon A true “music lovers” club, Volume is found in the basement of Crown Hotel. Fri and Sat 9 pm - 6 am. W15,000 - W30,000. Crown Hotel B1 clubvolume.com 1544-2635 Woo Bar Check out the split-level lobby lounge for cool music and exclusive parties. No cover charge. 21 Gwangjang-dong wseoul.com 02-465-2222 Massage

Healing Hands Massage Studio healinghands.co.kr 070-7504-8090 Beauty

Marie&M Gangnam The right haircut makes all the difference! All staff at this salon are qualified by Vidal Sassoon.

02-512-3798

English-speaking Staff High light and Low light Cutting Styling Hair spa

Hongik Univ.

Line 2 Hongdae St.

Coffee Bean

Samgeori Pocha

Record Mom & Shop Dad

Tony&Guy Whether it’s a cut, highlight, low light, or hair spa that you want, you’re guaranteed to get professional service from the English-speaking stylists at Toni & Guy. Near Hongik University.

02-338-2773 Florists

Oxana Garden oxanagarden.com

02-798-6787

Community

Brazilians in Seoul Also known as Brasileiros em Seul, this group meets up on the 3rd Tuesday of each month. alocoreia@gmail.com 010-9631-2133 Gangnam Hills Toastmasters Club Helping you develop oral communication and leadership skills. koreatraining@ yahoo.com 010-8779-1969 Republicans Abroad Monthly meetings, events, and lectures for supporters of the USA Republican Party. kmohay@ hotmail.com 010-8688-9810

10 Magazine March 2011 | 59

GANGWON CALENDAR disc ov er y

Art Through March 6th A Portrait of London This exhibition features over 80 images depicting the city of London from 1830 to the present.

Donggang Museum of Photography in Yeongwol. Adults W1,000. Under 18 W500. dgphotomuseum.com 033-0375-4554

Performances March 18th Wonju Philharmonic Orchestra Conducted by Young-min Park with cello player Seong-won Yang. Wonju Chiak Art Hall. 7:30 pm. wonju.go.kr 033-737-4302 March 24th Chuncheon Philharmonic Orchestra You are invited to a night of Spanish entertainment. ccart.kr 033-253-8519

GANGWON

March 27th Pops Concert The Seoul Pops Orchestra performs Shostakovich’s Waltz and “Spring” from Vivaldi’s Four Seasons.

Wonju Baekun Art Hall. 7 pm. Free tickets available at Wonju City Hall (033-737-4701), Canabi Culture and Information Center (033-763-911) and Ankyeong Baksa Nambu Shijang (033-763-6831). 02-593-8760

Family

Sokcho’s Not Just for Squid Knick-knacks, Bob Dylan tracks, and a good cup of coffee.

Heading to Sokcho for the squid, but just can’t handle a whole day of food stalls selling the slippery suckers? Thankfully, you can find respite at Café Novel (소설) in the northwest corner of Food Town. Here, backpacker-turned-café-owner Nam San Jin has been serving those searching for a more intimate setting for over the past 20 years.

As I sit with those whom Mr. Jin refers to as his “groupies” (some old, some young, some foreign, some Korean) and listen to The Beatles, I am reminded of my friend’s old basement. You know: the cool place where you could sneak away from parents, slouch in a beat-up couch and listen to some chill music in peace.

What my friend’s house was lacking in—drinks and an ample range of music—you can definitely find at Café Novel (소설).

Shelves housing knick-knacks, empty scotch bottles, and a selection of over 10,000 records are the backdrop to hushed sing-a-longs and satisfied sighs after sipping hand-dripped Brazilian, Indonesian, and Panama coffees.

Although light, the menu will satisfy most. Snack platters (W15,000 - W20,000) are simple and made with Korean ingredients. Beer is available for W4,000 - W7,000, bottles of scotch or whiskey start at W70,000, and the seasonally selected coffees cost no more than W5,000. Brews change, so ask before choosing a particular blend!

An added bonus: if there’s anything left in the coffee pot, it’s poured free of charge.

Getting There

With Food Town on your right, walk north along Cheongdae-ro (청대 로). Make a right at Meokgeori-gil (먹거리길) and look for a white sign with what appears to be Bob Dylan on it (actually, it’s a famous Italian guitarist). 961-2 Gyo-dong, Sokcho-si, Gangwon-do. 033-638-5353 Words and shots by J u di th A n n C la ncy

Through March 31st Photographs of Sokcho in the 1950s 60 landscape photos of the Sokcho region taken by Paul Fancher, an American who lived and worked in the area in 1954.

Sokcho Museum. 9 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. sokchomuse.go.kr 033-639-2977

gangwon PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance Chuncheon Online Info tour.chuncheon.go.kr/eng

Libraries Chuncheon City Library iccl.or.kr 033-254-3887 Taebaek Municipal Library tbmlib.or.kr 033-550-2755

Amusement Parks Dreamland Amusement Park With a large zoo and plenty of rides, there’s lots of fun to be found at this park at Chiak Mountain near Wonju. W20,000 for adults, W18,000 for children. mydreamland.co.kr 033-732-5800

Museums Bangsan Porcelain Museum Yanggu-gun bangsanm.or.kr 033-480-2664 Chuncheon Makguksu Museum makguksumuseum.com 033-250-4134 Haslla Art World Gangneung haslla.kr 033-644-9411 Marisorigol Musical Instrument Museum Hongcheon-gun great.go.kr 033-430-2016 Sokbong Ceramic Museum Sokcho dogong.net 033-638-7711 Teddy Bear Farm Sokcho teddyfarm.net 033-636-3680 Wonju Hanji Museum Wonju wjhanji.co.kr 033-731-2323

Hotels/Accommodations

March 5th – 6th Bubble and Laser Show Exactly what the title states: bubbles and lasers. What else do you need for a fun performance?

Wonju Chiak Art Hall. Sat 11 am, 2 & 5 pm. Sun 11 am, 2 pm. W22,000. wonju.go.kr 033-741-8232 March 13th – 14th Bangtae Mountain “Gorosoe” Festival In the West, the sap of the maple tree (gorosoe 고로쇠) is generally boiled into syrup, but in Korea it’s drunk plain for its health benefits.

Collect some sap at the Gorosoe Village in Inje-gun. misan1.org 011-219-1307

Sport & Fitness Through March 7th Gangneung World Junior Figure Skating Competition The world junior figure skating competition is held in 56 countries with 660 participants. gmc. gangneung.go.kr 033-647-2004 March 5th Soccer: K-league Opening Day Gangwon FC vs. Gyeongnam FC at Gangreung Sports Complex. Time not announced.

April 3rd 2011 Samchuk Hwang Young-jo International Marathon 5 km, 10 km, half, full to depart at Samchuk Expo Square. The marathon begins at 9 am.

Register by March 10th. run1080.com April 17th Chuncheon Hoban Marathon 5 km, 10 km, half, full, W10,000 W25,000 Register by March 30th. run1080.com 033-258-1400

Education & Conferences Ongoing Free Farm Music Lessons Every Saturday from 2- 4 pm you have the chance to try your hand at learning to play traditional Korean music with these free lessons offered at the Gangneung Nongak Classroom. gnnongak.or.kr 033-642-4470

Hotel Inter-Burgo Wonju wonju.inter-burgo.com 033-766-8000 W Hotel Wonju w-hotel.co.kr 033-742-5454

Medical Services Gangwon National University Hospital Chuncheon knuh.or.kr/html/index.asp

033-258-2000 Gangnam Hospital Chuncheon ekangnam.co.kr 033-240-7000 Hyundai Animal Clinic Chuncheon dog7582.co.kr 033-256-7582 Ye Dental Clinic Chuncheon ccye.co.kr 033-262-2078

Restaurants Acozza Cafe Wonju Classy pizzas served in chic industrial décor. acozza.co.kr 033-766-7999

kor ean desti nation

W o r ds by A l e x M o r r i s , sh ot by da n a I l i e sc u

Jockeys gallop, bookies scribble, and a veil of smoke hangs over everything at the Gwacheon Racecourse.

T

oss out any grandiose visions of large-brimmed hats and day dresses. To better grasp the horse track in Gwacheon, south of Seoul, picture instead a riotous scene of taxi cab drivers who fidget nervously under a canopy of second-hand smoke. Add a dose of colorful Korean expletives to the mix as the horses round the final bend, and you’re just about there.

That said, you should go. Cheering on your horse against a picturesque backdrop of mountains and greenery is exhilarating stuff. Besides, testing your skill and luck at picking the winning pony is something of an art form. The racing stats available in English at the information desk on the fourth f loor are a big help, sure. So is the gigantic electronic screen bordering the track that updates every thirty seconds the odds each horse will win. But it also pays to size up the horses themselves at close range, if only to scrutinize the amount of meat on their bones. To do so, snuggle up to the ajosshis in the stands of the sunken viewing ring shortly before each race. Listen to your gut, too, while you’re there. Sun Hero may have a shiny coat. But does he have that fire in his eyes?

And horse betting involves more than just placing all your money on the single horse you predict will cross the finish line first. To switch things up, bet on the two horses you think will finish first and second in any order. It’s called a quinella—a tougher challenge with potential for big winnings. No luck? Try a quinella place, my personal favorite, which dares you to correctly choose two of the three horses that will make the top three. Or, for a more likely pay off, go with a horse you think will simply “place” (finish in the top three). You’ll earn less of a return because the odds of success are greater.

But you’re certainly still entitled to rub your hard-earned fistfuls of man wons in your friends’ faces should Bi Cheon Wang (“bitchin’ what?”)–or whatever hilariously named horse you’ve chosen— charge past the finish line in first, second or third. Winnings are winnings.

You can spread your bets across a host of betting methods for each race, too, to increase your chances of coming out on top. I won’t bore you with the details, but I do recommend looking them up if you desire a slightly more intricate betting scheme.

For a complete breakdown of betting rules and techniques, consult the English racetrack betting guide at the foreigner’s information desk, the same place you get the stats sheet. There, you can also ask the English speaking staff any questions you might have about the betting process. It’s easier than you think.

And don’t worry: the minimum bet is only W100. The piggy bank need not break. But you may want to think twice if the thought of spending an afternoon outing in Korea without an alcoholic beverage worries you. The track is booze-free.

Getting There

Take line 4 (the light blue line) to Seoul Racecourse Park Station and head out exit 1 or 2. It’s open Saturdays and Sundays most of the year. race.kra.co.kr 1566-3333

10 T i p

An ajosshi checking out the woman’s bet.

Shot by Katie Heil

There are plenty of other places to visit while you’re down in Gwacheon. The next subway stop to the south is Seoul Grand Park Stn. where you’ll find Seoul Land (eng.seoulland. co.kr), the Seoul Zoo (grandpark.seoul.go.kr), the National Museum of Contemporary Art (moca.go.kr), and the National Science Museum (ssm.go.kr), all clustered around the station.

10 Magazine March 2011 | 61

GYEONGGI

A Day at the Races

GYEONGGI CALENDAR F o odi e f i n d s

March 19th - 20th Please Take Care of My Mom: The Play The message of this performance is the importance of family and the irreplaceable nature of mothers in the world. Gunpo Culture and Art Center. Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 3 pm. W44,000 - W66,000. gunpoart.net 031-390-3501 March 22th Joseon’s Fashion Designer Andre Samwol: Pansori Play Set in the 19th century, this play draws upon the traditional Korean opera known as pansori.

Uijeongbu Arts Center. 7:30 pm. Pay as you wish. uac.or.kr 031-828-5841~2

Two Times the Asia

Indian cuisine is definitely the up-and-coming trend in Korea, taking the place of Vietnamese as the hot new “ethnic” cuisine.

Unlike Korean pho, it looks like not much is lost in translation with Indian food. It’s just as explosive and fiery, mostly because the majority of Indian restaurants are run by people who grew up with the cuisine. Ilsan’s Asia Asia stars as a shining example. It’s spacious and well-decorated. The food is distinct and punchy with toasted spices. Get the palak paneer and the mutton vindaloo. The service is super fast. Naan comes out almost as quickly as you order it. Best of all, it’s popular with Koreans and expats alike, especially the business lunch crowd.

Western Tower 2F, between Jeongbalsan and Madu Stations on line 3. asiaasia.co.kr 031-901-0086

Words and shots by Joe McPherson

Art Ongoing The Year of the Rabbit Featuring traditional Korean artifacts with rabbits, the exhibition also shows new rabbit characters in Korean society, including Mashimaro, a popular Korean animated character created by Jae-in Kim. Gyeonggi Provincial Museum in Yongin. 10 am - 6 pm. Free. musenet.or.kr 031-288-5300 Korean Conceptual Art from the 1970-80s: Jack of All Trade A variety of art mediums, such as installations, performances and videos, will be featured at this exhibit, which draws influence from the aesthetic Korean background and contemporary Western art concepts.

Gyeonggi Museum of Modern Art in Ansan near Gongdan Stn. (line 4). 10 am – 6 pm. Free. gma.or.kr 031-481-7007 Through March 27th Forgotten War, Divided Country This collection shows you bloody scenes of war through the eyes of Korean artists.

National Museum of Contemporary Art in Gwacheon near Seoul Grand Park Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Weekdays 10 am - 5 pm. Weekends 10 am - 8 pm. Closed Mon. moca.go.kr 02-2188-6000 “Pop Party” for Kids Program If your kids are having trouble finding the fun in art, this “pop party” may be just the ticket. Lichtenstein, Andy Warhol, Keith Haring, and a variety of modern Korean pop artists make an appearance in this example of “edutainment.” Jangheung Art Park in Yangju. Weekdays 10 am – 6 pm. Weekends 10 am – 5 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W7,000, children W5,000.

62 | 10 Magazine March 2011

artpark.co.kr 031-877-0500

Theater & Dance Through March 27th Aida: The Musical Will Radames choose Aida or remain loyal to his state? This story is of the quintessential Egyptian soldier struggling between love and duty. Watch this version of the Giuseppe Verdi’s original Italian opera. Seongnam Arts Center near exit 1 of Imae Stn. on the Bundang line. Weekdays 8 pm, Sat 3 & 7:30 pm, Sun 2 & 6:30 pm, closed Mon. W40,000 - W120,000. snart.or.kr 1544-8117 March 11th I Have a Wife: The Play A heartwarming story that will remind you of how precious your family is. Aram Nuri Arts Center in Goyang near Jeongbalsan Stn. (line 3, ex 3). Fri 8 pm, Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 4 pm. W10,000. artgy.or.kr 1577-7766 March 18th - 20th Nunsensation: The Musical Get a little nun-sensical with the ladies of Nunsensation. Aram Nuri Arts Center in Goyang near Jeongbalsan Stn. (line 3, ex.

3). Fri 3 & 8 pm, Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 3 pm.

W10,000 -W 45,000. artgy.or.kr 1577-7766 March 19th - 20th The Three Musketeers: The Musical Originating from Alexandre Dumas’ 19th century novel, this is a classic story of three inseparable friends who live by the motto of “all for one, one for all.” Korean.

Aram Nuri Arts Center in Goyang near Jeongbalsan Stn. (line 3, ex. 3). Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 2 & 6 pm. W44,000 W110,000. artgy.or.kr 1644-0488

March 25th - 26th Sleepy, the Dreaming Mouse: Puppet Show Based on Leo Lionni’s famous fable “Frederick,” this show contrasts a creative, artistic mouse with the bustling mice who are storing up grain for the winter. Aram Nuri Arts Center in Goyang near Jeongbalsan Stn. (line 3, ex. 3). Fri 11 am, 2 pm, Sat 2 & 4 pm. W10,000. artgy.or.kr 1577-7766

Concerts March 5th ASAC Spring Concert The program includes Beethoven’s Piano Concerto No. 4 in G major Op. 58 and Strauss’s Die Fledermaus Overture. Ansan Arts Center. 7 pm. W10,000 - 55,000. ansanart.com 031-481-4000 March 10th Special Concert Series: Mozart’s Requiem Performed by the Incheon Symphony Orchestra and Incheon Opera Choir. Incheon Culture and Arts Center near Arts Center Stn. (Incheon line). 7:30 pm. W5,000 - 10,000. art. incheon.go.kr 032-420-2781 March 12th “Sweet Music Box” White Day Concert The program includes Schumann’s Träumerei and Chopin’s Etude, Op. 10-3. Anyang Culture Center.

7 pm. W10,000 - W30,000. ayac.or.kr 031-687-0500 March 18th - 19th History of the Quartet Featuring the Seoul Guitar Quartet, performing a program of Telemann’s concert for 4 violins (Allegro), Handel’s The Arrival of the Queen of Sheba, Kleynjans’ Melodies Op. 48 and Pujols’ Grises y Soles. Aram Nuri Arts Center in Goyang near Jeongbalsan Stn. (line 3,ex. 3). Fri 8 pm, Sat 7 pm.

W10,000. artgy.or.kr 1577-7766 March 22nd Spring Concert The program includes Tchaikovsky’s Romeo and Juliet Overture, Variations on a Rococo Theme Op. 33 and Violin Concerto in D major Op. 35. Gunpo Culture and Art Center. 7:30 pm. W10,000 - W15,000. gunpoart.net 031-390-3501 March 25th Jae Hyeong Jung’s “Avec Piano” Concert Enjoy a glass of wine and a performance by the talented pianist Jaehyeong Jung. Seongnam Arts Center near Imae Stn. (Bundang line, ex. 1). 9 pm. W40,000. snart.or.kr 031-783-8000 Mix & Match Concert Mussorgsky’s Pictures at an Exhibition and Grieg’s Peer Gynt, with the Cantabel Wind Orchestra. Aram Nuri Arts Center in Goyang. Jeongbalsan Stn. (line 3, ex. 3).

8 pm. W10,000. artgy.or.kr 1577-7766 March 26th Pianist Jiyong’s Recital “Liszto Mania” The program includes pieces by Schubert, Liszt and Schumann. Gunpo

Culture and Art Center. 7 pm. W20,000 W30,000. gunpoart.net 031-390-350

Family & Community Through March 31st Fairy Lights Festival Keep the holiday spirit going with Christmas dinners, light decorations and Santa Claus! There will also be diverse international activities such as Latin dancing, belly dancing, hip hop dancing and live sky lanterns. All this will be happening against the beautiful background of a botanical garden. Herb Island. 10 am - 10 pm. herbisland.co.kr 031-535-6494

Education & Conferences Ongoing American Museum of Natural History: Climate Change Festival Not so much a celebration of climate change as an educational program designed to raise awareness of the phenomenon. The Green Zone at Seoul Land in Gwacheon near Seoul Grand Park Stn. (line 4). W2,000. seoulland.co.kr 02-509-6000 March 31st - April 10th Seoul Motor Show This year, the theme is “Evolution: The Green Revolution on Wheels.” KINTEX in Goyang (Ilsan). 3/31 is a press day, 4/1 – 4/10 (10 am – 7 pm) are public days. A million visitors are predicted. motorshow.or.kr 02-3660-1888

Sport & Fitness April 10th Adidas & MBC Hangang Marathon Full course (W40,000), half course or 10km course (W35,000), light run or 5km (W30,000). The racing resort area of Misa-ri at Hanam City. 9 am. Register

by March 15th. mbc-marathon.co.kr 02-338-6564

2011 K-League Football March 12th Sungnam vs Jeonbuk at Sungnam Stadium, 3 pm.

Incheon vs Jeju at Incheon World Cup Stadium, 3 pm Suwon vs Gwangju at Suwon World Cup Stadium, 3 pm March 16th Incheon vs Daejeon at Incheon World Cup Stadium, 7 pm March 20th Incheon vs Daegu at Incheon World Cup Stadium, 3 pm Dozens of volleyball and basketball games are scheduled for this month.

Volleyball games are listed on the website at kovo.co.kr (mostly Korean, though English schedules are also listed).

Men’s basketball games are listed on kbl.or.kr (Korean only) and women’s games at wkbl.or.kr (also Korean only).

e di t or’ s p ick

Cartoon Capers in Gyeonggi Province Through March 20th

Art

Explore the past and present of cartoons with these two exhibits.

Jean-Jacques Sempe Illustration Exhibit French illustrator and comic artist Jean-Jacques Sempe has illustrated everything from the Le Petit Nicholas series of books to the cover of The New Yorker. His witty illustrations poke fun at society’s foibles. Adults W11,000, students W8,000, kids W6,000.

GYEONGGI

International Cartoon & Art Festival The hundreds of cartoons, illustrations, graphic novels, and modern art on display include work by Japanese Takeda Hideo, Turkish cartoonist Selçuk Demirel, and French graphic novelist Adrian Smith.

Adults W9,000, students W7,000, children W5,000.

Aram Nuri Arts Center in Goyang (Ilsan) near Jeongbalsan Stn. (line 3, ex. 3). Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun 10 am - 6 pm. Fri & Sat 10 am - 8 pm.

Closed Mon. artgy.or.kr 031-960-0182

gyeongGI province Religious Services

Grace & Truth Church Anyang, Ansan, and Suwon Sunday 9:30 am, 11 am, 1 pm, grace-truth.org 031-443-3731 Dongsan Church Ansan Sunday 11:30 am, 010-2910-7809 Museums

Central America Culture Center Goyang. latina.or.kr 031-962-7171 Elvis Presley Memorial Hall Paju paju.go.kr 031-948-3358 Face Museum Gwangju (Gyeonggi Province). visagej.org 031-765-3522 Korean Lamp (Deung-Jan) Museum Yongin deungjan.or.kr/eng 031-334-0797 Waltz & Dr. Mahn Coffee Museum Namyangju wndcof.com 031-576-6051

café and wine bar. cafenicolia.com

032-329-0526 La Mia Cucina Ilsan The kitchen is always open at this English-friendly Italian pub.

7 pm – 4 am.

010-2327-8882 First Nepal Restaurant Incheon firstnepal.com 032-525-8771 Bars/Lounges/Pubs

The Big Chill Suwon Chill out in a big way with the friendly crowd while enjoying a game of pool, darts, or wii. Opens 8 pm on Wed – Sat and 4 pm on Sun. Facebook group, edwardjorgensen@gmail.com 010-3136-0153 The Park Bucheon Rhythm & Blues Bucheon 032-323-0161 West Island Ilsan 031-917-2225

Transportation

International Taxi (English speaking)

1644-2255 Jumbo Taxi Service (more expensive) 02-888-2000 Radio

US Armed Forces Network Dongducheon AM 1197/FM 88.3 Pyongtaek AM 1440/FM 88.3 Songtan AM 1359/FM 88.5 Uijeongbu AM 1161/FM 88.5 Restaurants

Cafe Nicolia Bucheon European-style

Jukjeon Gecko’s Yongin Bundang and Yongin expats should be ecstatic to know that the famous Gecko’s chain is expanding south. Near the Shinsegye department store. geckosterrace.com

031-262-9974 Clubs

Club Psycho Anyang bcmusicworld.com

010-7754-0409

10 Magazine March 2011 | 63

CHUNGCHEONG CALENDAR e di t or’ s p ick

Art Ongoing Fresco Murals With work by artists from Michelangelo to Da Vinci, this exhibit allows you to experience the rich history and culture of the Renaissance and other early time periods. Asia Museum in Daejeon. 10 am – 6 pm, Sun 1 – 6 pm. Closed Mon. W6,000 - W12,000. asiamuseum.asia 042-863-0055 Through March 1st Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo & Raphael Asia Museum in Daejeon. 10 am – 6 pm, Sun 1 – 6 pm, closed Mon. Adults W12,000, students W10,000, children W8,000. frescoart.co.kr 042-863-0055

A team from the April 2009 quiz night is joined by a representative from the local disability group that received part of the night’s proceeds.

Buldang Charity Pub Quiz This long-running Cheonan quiz night entertains locals and aids charities.

March 5th

Family & Community

CHUNGCHEONG

In October, 2008 Matt McLaughlin-Stonham and his wife Hilary were looking for a weekend activity that was, in their words, “socially interactive, intellectually challenging, competitive and not solely based on alcohol consumption.” This proved to be a tall order in the Cheonan area, but with their friend James Kor they managed to start the first ever Buldang Pub Quiz.

The format was simple. Teams of four would compete in a series of five trivia rounds with categories such as Korea, cinema, music, sports, and general knowledge. A local pub was happy to host.

The first quiz hit big, and what started as something to do for a night turned into a monthly not-to-be-missed event. In April 2009, the Buldang Pub Quiz took another step forward by holding its first charity quiz with proceeds going to a local disability group. Other charities have included battered women’s shelters and an animal shelter.

The current pub quiz is run by a group of three “Quiz Masters” who rotate every few months to keep the quiz fresh. Topics are announced one week before each quiz. Teams of four must register for the quiz in advance as the seating is limited to twelve teams. The entry fee is W20,000 per team, and the proceeds from each quiz are split with 50% going to the winning team, 25% to the pub for hosting, and 25% to a local charity.

Over the years, the Buldang Pub Quiz has changed leadership and format, but it still serves as an excellent opportunity for foreigners to get out, meet new people, and help out a worthwhile charity all in one night.

For more information or to register for an upcoming quiz email the Quiz Masters at buldang_quiz_master@yahoo.com.

Words by Lucy Beaucla ir shots by Matt McLaughlin- Stonha m

64 | 10 Magazine March 2011

Through March 27th 2010 Additions to the Collection DMA presents 10 new pieces of art by artists across Chungcheong Province.

Daejeon Museum of Art. 10 am – 7 pm.

Fri till 9 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W500, minors W300. dmma.metro.daejeon.kr 042-602-3253 Through March 31st Masterpieces Donated by the Eunjin Song Family Daejeon Prehistoric Museum. 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. museum.daejeon.go.kr 042-826-2814

Concerts March 12th - 13th Choi Hyun-woo Magic Concert Awarded the Most Original Act at FISM (the World Cup of magicians), his charming magician will enchant you. Daejeon Woosong Art Center. Sat. 3 & 7 pm, Sun. 2 & 6 pm. woosongart.co.kr 1544-0674 March 13th Je-dong Kim “Talk Concert” Season 2 Introducing a whole new concept of concert, Je-dong Kim intersperses his music with witty chatter (in Korean).

Chungcheong Univ. Convention Hall. 6 pm. W66,000. ticket.interpark.com 043-222-7200 Gag Concert Daejeon Convention Center (DCC). 4 & 7 pm. W33,000 W55,000. dcckorea.or.kr 1588-9285 March 22nd Ji-yong Piano Recital Daejeon Culture and Arts Center. 7:30pm. W10,000 W50,000. djac.or.kr 042-610-2222 March 25th - 26th Psy Concert This artist has been entertaining his fans from the big stage, but now he’s getting down and dirty in a more intimate venue. Daejeon Woosong Art Center. 3/25: 8 pm, 3/26: 7 pm.

W77,000 - W88,000. woosongart.co.kr 1588-2532

Family & Community K-League Football 12th Daejeon FC vs FC Seoul 3 pm 20th Daejeon FC vs Gyeongnam 3 pm All games at Daejeon World Cup Stadium fcdaejeon.com March 27th Yugwansun Peace Marathon To depart from the Independence Monument in Cheonan at 10 am.

W10,000 - W20,000. Register by March 15th. yugwansun.co.kr 042-526-6867 Yesan Oriental Cherry Marathon 5km and half, to depart at 10 am from the stadium in Yesan-gun. W15,000 - W30,000. Register by March 31st. yesanmarathon.co.kr 041-339-7332

April 24th Ban Ki-mun Marathon 4.2km, 10 km, half, and full, to depart at 9 am from the Eumseong-gun sports complex. W30,000. Register by March 21st. 반기문마라톤.kr 043-871-3844

CHUNGCHEONG PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance Daejeon International Community Center dicc.or.kr 042-223-0789

Religious Services Central Presbyterian Church Nonsan 041-736-1002 Presbyterian Church Cheonan 041-675-2008 Central Presbyterian Church Gongju 011-382-1862 Sanseong Church 042-585-8111 Daejeon jungwonh@hotmail.com

Classes Yegok Natural Dye Workshop Okcheon-gun Dye clothing or make natural soap. yegok.co.kr 043-733-0978

Entertainment O-World Amusement Park Daejeon oworld.kr 042-580-4820 Kumdori Land Daejeon kumdori.co.kr 042-862-4000

Museums Alcohol Museum: Liquorium Chungju liquorium.com 043-855-7333 Gonam Shell Mound Museum Taean-gun Anmyeon Island museum.taean.go.kr 041-670-2337 Jincheon Bell Museum Jincheon-gun jincheonbell.net 043-539-3850 Korea Traditional Architecture Museum Yesan-gun English site: ktam.or.kr 041-337-5877

Hotels/Accommodations New Korea Hotel Asan 041-542-8151 Onyang Hot Spring Hotel Asan 041-545-2141 Cheonan Central Hotel Cheonan 041-564-9100 Yuseong Hotel Daejeon 042-822-9591 The Sky Blue Bird Seosan 011-382-1862 Golden Wave Taean 041-675-2008

Medical Services Konyang International Health Care Center Daejeon kihcc.kyuh.co.kr 042-600-9978 Sun Hospital Daejeon 042-220-8000

Restaurants/Supermarkets Gasan Korean, Cheonan 041-561-9500 Spain House Spanish, Cheonan

041-571-7474 Olive Farms Buffet, Cheongju

043-215-3311

Bars/Lounges/Pubs Rolling Stones Cheonan 041-562-9824 MJ Cheongju “MJ Bar” on Facebook.

043-273-8366 Road King Cheongju 010-8301-5936 Blue Moon Cheongwon 043-285-0399 Brickhouse Sports Bar & Grill Daejeon “The Daejeon Brickhouse” on Facebook,

010-9867-0921 J-Rock Daejeon 010-4564-7721 Santa Claus Daejeon “Santa Claus 2008” on Facebook, 042-825-5500 The Shisha House Daejeon “Welcome to the Shisha House” on Facebook.

042-825-4157 Sponge Daejeon 042-471-3373

GYEONGSANG CALENDAR Art Through March 6th Asian Artwork Exhibition Focusing on Indian ink drawings, engravings, and calligraphy by artists from China, Japan, and other Asian countries. Daegu Culture and Arts Center. 10 am – 8 pm. Closed Mon. artcenter.daegu.go.kr 053-606-6114 Royal Palaces of the Joseon Dynasty Displaying pictures taken during the Japanese occupation period and focusing on how the royal palaces were demolished to build the Japanese government building. Daegu National Museum. daegu.museum.go.kr/index. htm 053-768-6051 Through March 10th

March 18th - April 17th Marionette: B-Boy Musical A touching story of love and separation, communicated through the evocative genre of breakdance. Harmonia Art Hall in Daegu. Wed/Thu/Fri 7:45 pm, Sat 4 pm, 7 pm. Sun 3 pm, 6 pm. W35,000 - W40,000. ticket.interpark.com 053-254-7241 March 19th Cavalleria Rusticana: The Opera This one-act opera by Italian Pietro Mascagni premiered in 1890. Daegu Opera House. 5 pm. W10,000 - W20,000. daeguoperahouse.org 053-666-6000 March 19th - 20th Children’s Nanta: The Wizard of Oz The exciting Nanta rhythms add some spice to the familiar story of Dorothy and her companions. Gumi Art Center. 2 pm, 4 pm. W25,000 - W40,000. gumiart.or.kr 031-258-9054 March 25th - 27th Grease: The Musical Rediscover 50s America in this Korean production. Busan Citizen’s Hall. Fri 8 pm, Sat 3 pm, 7:30 pm, Sun 2 pm.

W40,000 - W70,000. citizenhall.busan.kr 051-630-5200

Steve McCurry’s Photography Exhibition: “Unguarded Moment” Steve McCurry is one of America’s preeminent photojournalists. Previously displayed at the Sejong Center in Seoul, the exhibit is now open at the 3.15 Art Center in Masanhoewon-gu, Changwon.

10 am - 7 pm. Closed on Feb 3rd.

Adults W5,000 students W4,000 kids W3,000. 315art.net 055-286-0315

March 26th Daegu Comedy Night Seoul City Improv makes the (not so) long trip down to Daegu for a night of hilarity at Buy the Book. They will be joined by the Daegu Theatre Troupe. daegutheatre@gmail.com

Through March 27th Rabbit: Lord of the Moon Palace Explore one of Korea’s quaintest legends. Gyeongju National Museum.

Closed Mon. gyeongju.museum.go.kr 054-740-7500

Ongoing Korean Music and Dance in Busan Performances every Saturday at the National Center for the Korean Traditional Performing Arts in Busan (National Gugak Center in Busan). W6,000 W8,000. ncktpab.go.kr 051-811-0040

Theater & Dance

Jump In its second decade, this popular martial arts comic show shows no signs of slowing. IBK Jump Theater in the basement of the Haeundae Grand Hotel.

Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun and holidays 3pm, Closed Mon. W40,000 W50,000. hijump.co.kr 051-744-4885 March 5th - 6th The Fairy Who Stole the Woodcutter’s Clothes: The Play A modern twist on the Korean story “The Fairy and the Woodcutter.” Donggu Arts & Sports Center. Sat 3 pm, 7 pm, Sun 3 pm.

W15,000. dgculture.or.kr 053-662-3083

Concerts

Lamb Skewers and Tsing Tao Those looking for a Korean-Chinese fix in Busan should drop

by Bukgyungsik Kkochi Guui (북경식 꼬치 구이, Beijing Skewers) in the Kyungsung University Area. This recently expanded kkochi joint is a local favorite and worth a visit for the addictive lamb skewers alone (4 for W6,000). While there, be sure to try the Beijing-style lamb tortilla (W8,000) and order at least a few plates of chicken, pork or shrimp to share (W6,000 – W8,000). Big bottles of Tsing Tao are a bargain at W3,500 and keep everything well-oiled. The quality is exceptional, and you won’t be disappointed. 051-627-5488

Words and shots by Da nn y O’Su lli va n

March 5th

GYEONGSANG

Ongoing The Ballerina Who Fell in Love with a B-Boy This b-boy-meets-ballerina story is a genre-bending mash-up of break dance and ballet. Seomyeon BB Theater in Busan. Mon - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun 3 & 6 pm. W40,000 - W50,000. bbtheater.co.kr 051-804-2252

f o odi e f i n d s

Boohwal Concert This South Korean rock band has been making music for more than twenty-five years. KBS Hall in Changwon. 4 pm, 7:30 pm. W77,000 - 88,000. ticket.interpark.com 1599-0701

Maksim Mrvica Concert Search for the songs “Croatian Rhapsody” or “Exodus” on YouTube to get to know this Croatian pop pianist whose crossover classical tunes have won him a huge following in Asia. Daegu Opera House. 6 pm. W44,000 - W99,000. daeguoperahouse.org 053-666-6000 March 8th Dong-gyu Kim Aria Recital Enjoy a cup of coffee as you appreciate Dong-gyu Kim’s operatic talent at this month’s Tuesday Morning Concert

10 Magazine March 2011 | 65

e di t or’ s pick

Yeongdeok Snow Crab Festival March 11th – 13th

Taejongdae’s Spectacular Seascape Bid the beach farewell and head up to this lofty lighthouse for one of Busan’s best seaside views.

Busan visitors might list Gwangalli or Haeundae Beach as the best places to see the ocean. Less well-known but equally remarkable is Taejongdae Park, located on the island just south of Busan Station.

To reach the park, take the 88 or 101 bus from the stop located across the street from Busan Station. Taejongdae Park is the last stop of an approximately 30-minute ride. The island’s 250meter peak is surrounded on all sides by a path that leads you through the main sites. You can choose to walk along the path (about 1 hour from the park entrance to the furthest point). Alternately, a tour bus operates at 30-40 minute intervals (W1,500 for adults).

At the entrance to the park, keep an eye out for a monolith that stands as a tribute to the countries that provided medical support to Korea during the war. Proceeding along the path, you’ll find a scenic observation deck providing spectacular views of ships passing through the port and, on clear days, Japan’s Tsushima Island.

Continuing along, the path winds up to its payoff - the Yeongdo Lighthouse Observation Point. The emblematic lighthouse stands on the edge of a steep cliff. A winding staircase allows visitors to stroll along a large, flat rock platform that legend claims is the place where pale gods went to catch some rays. Almost 120,000 years of rock layers can be seen from this platform. Also near the lighthouse, Gumyeong Temple stands as a tribute to saving life, built because these cliffs were once an infamous suicide spot.

After spending a few hours hiking along the scenic path and enjoying Taejongdae’s natural scenery, hungry visitors can find their way to the shellfish village near the entrance to the park.

The famous dining location puts guests on a pebble beach with a seaside view to complement their grilled shellfish.

Words and shots by M i k e Lu edk e 66 | 10 Magazine March 2011

Family & Community

Yeongdeok-gun, located just north of Pohang on the east coast, is the snow crab capital of Korea. The region’s crabs (known as daege 대게 in Korean) are well-known for their rich flavor, and they become even more delicious in spring. If you’re fond of gorging on good seafood, this festival will not disappoint. A smorgasbord of delicious dishes cooked with crabs caught in the area will be ready for purchase. It’s not just a crab-eating frenzy, though. You can also check out cool activities like a snow crab fishing competition and a chance to board an actual fishing boat. It all takes place at the Yeongdeok Snow Crab Village. crab.yd.go.kr 054-730-6756 at Suseong Artpia in Daegu. 11 am.

W20,000. ssartpia.or.kr 053-668-1800 March 11th Jang-hun Kim Concert with the Czech Philharmonic Orchestra KBS Busan Hall. 8 pm. W66,000 W132,000. wsmi.co.kr 1600-1716 Four-fingered Pianist Hee-A Lee Suseong Artpia in Daegu. 7:30 pm.

W25,000 - W30,000. ssartpia.or.kr 053-666-3300 March 12th

March 17th Daegu Gugak Troupe Experience Korean music as it was before K-pop came to be. Daegu Culture and Arts Center. 7:30 pm. Closed Mon. artcenter.daegu.go.kr 053-606-6114 March 25th - 27th Magic Concert: The Illusion Suseong Artpia in Daegu. 11 am. Fri 8 pm, Sat 3 pm & 7:30 pm, Sun 2 pm & 6:30 pm. W55,000 - W77,000. ssartpia.or.kr 053-668-1800 March 26th - 27th Cloud Bread: Children’s Concert Based on the popular children’s book.

Haeundae Cultural Center in Busan. Sat 11 am, 2 pm, 4 pm, Sun 11 am, 1 pm, 3 pm. W15,000 - W20,000. hcc.haeundae.go.kr 051-749-7651

Family & Community Laurent Korcia Concert Award-winning French violinist Laurent Korcia will perform at the Gimhae Arts and Sports Center. 5 pm. W20,000 W40,000. gasc.or.kr 055-320-1234 March 13th White Day Concert Featuring the triple combo of K-pop singers IU, Leessang, and December.

EXCO (Daegu Exhibition and Convention Center). 7 pm. W66,000 - W88,000. excodaegu.co.kr 053-601-5000

Through March 6th Hello! Amazon This exhibit offers children an entertaining way to learn about the importance of the Amazon Rainforest. Seongsan Art Hall in Changwon. 10 am - 6 pm. Children W13,000, adults W10,000. helloamazon.co.kr 1588-4706

Education & Conferences March 9th - 11th Int’l Textile Fair EXCO (Daegu Exhibition and Convention Center).

GYEONGSANG directory previewin.com 053-601-5000 March 11th - 13th Busan Int’l Fishing Show BEXCO (Busan Exposition and Convention Center). kofish.co.kr 051-740-7320 March 24th - 27th Baby and Edu Expo 2011 CECO (Changwon Exhibition Convention Center). 10 am - 6 pm. Free. babyshow.co.kr 055-212-1000 March 24th - 28th Daegu Housing Expo 2011 EXCO (Daegu Exhibition and Convention Center). 10 am - 6 pm. W2,000. excodaegu.co.kr 053-601-5000

Sports & Fitness March 26th, 27th, and April 2nd Kumho River Marathon 5km, 10km, 30km, half, and full, to depart at 9 am from the Dongchon Resort. Register by March 24th/25th/31st. W10,000 - W20,000.

2011.mapho.co.kr 011-526-9120 March 27th Health Walk in the Footsteps of King Taejo Departs at 9:30 am from Sinsunggyeom in Daegu. Register by March 23th. dg803.com 053-939-7733 April 3rd Sobaek Marathon 5k, 10k, half, and full, to depart at 9:30 am from the Yeongju Stadium. W15,000 - W30,000.

Register by March 6th. sobaekmarathon.go.kr 02-491-5752 Gyeongsan Marathon 5k, 10k, half, and full, to depart at 8:30 am from the Daeun Stadium at the Gyeongsan Campus of Yeongnam University.

W25,000. Register by March 25th. gsmarathon.kr 053-801-1010

gyeongsang PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance Busan Foundation for Int’l Activities bfia.or.kr 051-898-3740, 051-865-0133 Geoje Foreign Resident Association gfra.net 055-687-9332 Ulsan Global Center 052-229-2810 Ulsan Online ulsanonline.com

Education

Hotels/Accommodations 4 – 5 Star Hotels Busan Lotte Hotel 051-810-1000 Novotel Ambassador 051-743-1234 Seacloud 051-933-1000 Daegu Novotel Ambassador 053-664-1101 Hostels Busan Arpina 051-740-3228 Zen Backpackers 010-8722-1530

Live Music Venues Club Interplay Busan cafe.daum.net/ interplaycafe 051-517-4773 Club Heavy Daegu cafe.daum.net/ clubheavy96 010-2338-1340 Club Metal Boys Gyeongju cafe.daum.net/metalboys 011-9599-8370

053-423-4048 The Holy Grill Western Owned and operated by Canadians, the Grill provides expats with fantastic sandwiches, burgers, Tex-Mex and breakfast in a chilled-out environment that feels more like a lounge than a burger joint. Move up to the 3rd floor to catch major sporting events.

053-423-4048 Leo Chow Mexican A decent selection of burritos and tacos.

053-255-7111 Maya Indian Gyeongbuk University.

053-214-1916 Samarkland Russian Daegu station.

053-252-4021 Siji Taco Mexican Spicy tacos at competitive prices 053-791-5050 South St. Western Philly cheesesteaks and cold cuts in Suseong-gu. blog. naver.com/southst105 053-768-7867 Gumi Waegook Cook American Gumi’s original foreign-owned and operated restaurant, serving steaks, hamburgers,

Busan Aligote Wines, cheese platters, and excellent service. Haeundae. 6 pm – 3 am. aligote-busan.com 051-731-3322 Basement Open mic nights on Tuesdays and parties galore.

011-9294-2391 Fuzzy Navel Great drinks and great Mexican food as well. 011-1757-6349 The HQ Bar Kyungsung’s only foreignerowned bar with sports and dart games. busankart@yahoo.com Rock ‘n’ Roll House Western-style bar with darts and pool and a great view of Haeundae.

051-742-5553 Sosa Bar A cozy latin bar close to Pusan National University.

051-513-0070 Wolfhound The same classic food and drinks from the Seoul location, but right on Haeundae Beach.

051-746-7913 Daegu Ping Bar Great drinks, a pool table, and music upon request. Samdeok Catholic Church. 7 pm - 5 am. withhyk@hanmail.net 053-422-7708 Jinju Soundgarden Behind Gyeongsang National University. soundgarden. cyworld.com, zakkie@hanmail.net 055-753-2248, 010-6478-2248 (owner)

Religious Services Baekangro Church Busan 051-898-3740 Bujeon Church Busan 051-807-3331 Catholic Center Busan bccenter.or.kr 051-441-6403 Hongbeopsa Temple 051-508-3470 Busan busanbuddhism.com/hannarae Hosanna Church Busan hosanna21.com 051-209-0191 Podowon Church Busan 051-333-3736 Shipyungro Church Busan spr.or.kr 051-220-0200 Sooyeongno Church Busan 051-740-4500 Pusan University of Foreign Studies Busan 051-640-3445 Islamic Mosque Busan busanislam.or.kr 051-518-9991 Okpo Joonang Presbyterian Geoje Island 010-2586-7520, 010-3873-1652 Sumgim Presbyterian Church Geoje Island sumgim.org 017-577-3096

Gecko’s Western Perched on lovely Haeundae Beach at the Pale de CZ, you can get all of that authentic Western food you’re used to back home, and you’ll find bartenders who know how to mix a real margarita.

051-747-3069 Kebabistan Russian Uzbeki restaurant serving kebabs, soups and stews.

Busan Station.

051-581-4050 Sunset Lounge American Drinks, Western food and fun delivered next to Haeundae.

051-742-2959 Daegu Berkeley Italian Hof Street. 053-421-8577 Buy the Book Western This bookstore and café is your source for free yoga, theater, and parties. Downtown Daegu. Open weekends. buythebookcafe@yahoo.com

10 Magazine March 2011 | 67

GYEONGSANG

April 24th Jinju Namgang Marathon 5k, 10k, half, and full, to depart at 9:30 am from Shinan in Jinju. W10,000 - W30,000.

Register by March 20th. gnmarathon. co.kr 055-751-1085

Dozens of volleyball and basketball games are scheduled for this month.

Volleyball games are listed on the website at kovo.co.kr (mostly Korean, though English schedules are also listed). Men’s basketball games are listed on kbl.or.kr (Korean only) and women’s games at wkbl.or.kr (also Korean only).

2nd Floor Restaurant 3rd Floor Sports Lounge

Restaurants Busan Ganga Indian Opposite Haeundae Beach. ganga.co.kr 051-740-6670

seafood, pastas, and German cuisine. waegookcook.com 054-444-3775

Bars/Lounges/Pubs

Ayurveda Yoga Academy Certification course for would-be yoga teachers in Daegu. Sat 10 am – 7 pm.

Call Yatren at 011-9547-5181 Yoga Classes Each 1st and 3rd Sunday from 12:30 – 1:30 pm. Buy the Book Cafe in Daegu. megan.deutsch@gmail. com 010-7794-1218

April 23th 2011 Citizens’ Life Fitness Half Marathon 10k, half, and health course, to depart at 8:30 am from the Samnak Athletic Park in Busan. W15,000 - W25,000. Register by March 31st. bsrun.co.kr 051-244-3113

2011 K-League Football March 5th Sangju vs Incheon at Sangju Stadium, 3 pm.

Pohang vs Sungnam at Pohang Steelyard, 3 pm.

March 6th Ulsan vs Daejeon at Ulsan Munsu Football Stadium, 3 pm.

March 13th Gyeongnam vs Ulsan at Changwon Football Center, 3 pm.

Busan vs Sangju at Busan Asiad Main Stadium, 3 pm.

Daegu vs Gangwon at Daegu Citizen Stadium, 3 pm.

March 20th Pohang vs Suwon at Pohang Steelyard, 3 pm.

Ulsan vs Gangju at Ulsan Munsu Football Stadium, 3 pm.

Café Francesco Italian Italian cuisine and good coffee. Near Rodeo Street.

053-252-9625 Dijon French Up-market French and Mediterranean cuisine. 053-422-2426 Hami Mami’s American One of Daegu’s best brunches. 50m from the US base.

8 am – 10 pm.

053-475-5242

Art & Design Through March 6th Jeong-Ung Ha’s Special Collection: “Democracy, Human Rights and Gwangju” 80 works of art from the collection of this donor provide viewers with a chance to reflect on the legacy of the Gwangju Uprising, a significant chapter in the Korean struggle to achieve a democratic society.

Gwangju Museum of Art. 9 am – 6 pm.

Adults W500, students W300. artmuse. gwangju.go.kr 062-510-0149 Through March 27th

social classes. Suncheon Culture and Art Center. 7:30 pm. W5,000 W20,000. scart.or.kr 061-749-3516 March 12th - 13th My Mother: The Musical Mothers remember their youth as their daughters prepare to enter adulthood. Gwangju Culture and Art Center. W55,000 W88,000. art.gjcity.net 062-528-7880 Pororo To The Cookie Castle: Musical The lovable penguin Pororo stars in this family-friendly musical.

The Gwangju 5-18 Memorial Culture Center. 11 am, 2 & 4:30 pm. W30,000 W35,000. 518center.gjcity.net/index.jsp 1588-0766 Who Pooped on My Head?: Family Musical Werner Holzwarth’s bestselling book The Story of the Little Mole Who Knew It Was None of His Business is performed on stage. The Korean title gets straight to the point. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. Sat 2 & 4 pm.

Sun 11 am, 2 pm. W20,000 - W25,000. sori21.co.kr 1600-4534

disc ov er y

Jeonju by Any Other Name

JEOLLA

Enlighten yourself about the past of Jeolla Province at the Jeonju National Museum.

Where’s Wansanju? You won’t find it on a modernday map of the Korean peninsula. In fact, Wansanju was renamed Jeonju in 757, when it became the local power center following the decline of the state of Gamhae (today’s Iksan). This is just one interesting fact waiting to be discovered at the Jeonju National Museum.

The museum focuses on the history and culture of Jeollabuk-do (North Jeolla Province). The Ancient Culture Room displays maps and archaeological finds dating back through the Baekje Period (18 BCE – 660 CE) and as far as the early Bronze Age. Many of the treasures here – including a bronze crown and a golden book inscribed with the Diamond Sutra – were discovered during excavations of archaeological sites around Iksan, Wanju and Buan. Upstairs are further galleries showcasing calligraphy, Celadon porcelain, and other artistic treasures from the region.

The museum buildings are set in landscaped grounds, perfect for a spring picnic, which contain recreations of some of the tombs from which artifacts were recovered.

Clear explanations are provided in English, making the museum a fascinating visit for anyone interested in learning more about how the Jeolla region has helped shape the course of Korean history.

Though hidden in a suburb of Jeonju, the Jeonju National Museum is well-served by buses. Catch any bus bound for Geumgu from a stop along Paldal-ro downtown (9, 31, 49, 61 and 161 are the most frequent) and get off at the Jeonju Bakmulgwan (전주박물관) stop about 20 minutes away on the edge of the city. By taxi, just ask for “Jeonju Bakmulgwan.” From downtown, the fare should be around W8,000 - W10,000. Open 9 am – 6 pm. Entry to the museum is free.

Getting There

68 | 10 Magazine March 2011

Words and shots by A n dy Clay

Fall, Jeon Young-Hwa, 2002 “Life and Style” Exhibition These pieces from the collection of the Gwangju Museum of Art rediscover beauty and style in our everyday lives.

The thirty pieces in the exhibit represent the genres of craft, sculpture and new media. 9 am - 6 pm. Adults W500, students W300. artmuse.gwangju.go.kr 062-510-0149

Theater & Dance March 5th - 6th Family Musical: Snow White Goes to the Jungle A twist on a great Disney classic. Imagine our lovely princess Snow White entering the jungle. What kind of adventures will await her? YMCA Gwangju Culture Center. Saturday 12, 2 & 4 pm. Sun 1 & 3 pm. W12,000. ymcakwangju.or.kr 1566-7855

Concerts March 3th Spring Music Concert: Jeonju Municipal Traditional Orchestra’s Regular Concert This concert will get you ready for the approaching spring season. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 7:30 pm. Adults W5,000, students W3,000. sori21.co.kr 063-281-2543 March 4th Jeonju Symphony Orchestra Regular Concert: Mendelssohn The program includes Mendelssohn’s Overture to “A Midsummer Night’s Dream” Op. 21, Violin Concerto in E minor, Op. 64 and Symphony No. 3 in A minor “Scottish” Op. 56. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 7:30 pm. W7,000 W10,000. sori21.co.kr 02-281-2748 March 5th

Nunsense: The Musical It’s been 20 years since this musical was first performed in Korea, but it never gets old. Nuns singing and dancing. Still hilarious. Language: Korean. Suncheon Culture and Art Center. Sat 4 - 10 pm.

Sun 4 - 9 pm. scart.or.kr 02-747-4608

Lee Seong-chul Concert Previously the main vocalist for the famous Korean rock band Boohwal, this singer has successfully branched out on his own and won a Korean Music Award for best male singer. Mokpo Gymnasium. 7 pm.

W66,000 - W99,000. 1577-3850

Power Ranger Engine Force: Live Show The Red Power Ranger and his team will join forces once again to defeat evil. Gwangju Culture and Art Center. 11 am, 2 & 4:30 pm. W35,000 W45,000. art.gjcity.net 062-528-7880 March 10th Chunhyang Love Song: The Musical A traditional Korean musical about the love story of Chunhyang. It’s based on an old Korean novel called Chunhyangjeon, a beautiful story of forbidden love between two people from different

March 19th Dream Youth Symphony Orchestra Concert Chonbuk National University Cultural Center in Jeonju. 7:30 pm. Free. cnucc.chonbuk.ac.kr 010-3677-4567 March 19th - 20th PSY Concert PSY is known for his exciting, dynamic concerts. Gwangju Culture and Art Center. Sat 8 pm, Sun 6 pm. W77,000 - W88,000. art.gjcity.net 062-528-7880 March 26th - 27th Sun-i In Concert This acclaimed R&B diva still performs amazing shows even

JEOLLA CALENDAR e di t or’ s pick

Education & Conferences Ongoing GIC Talks Take advantage of English lectures by professors, writers, and diplomats that promote communication and mutual understanding among Koreans and international residents.

Topics include a wide range of subjects such as culture, history, politics, and art. Gwangju International Center. Sat 2:30 – 4 pm. Closed holidays. gic.or.kr 062-226-2733

after 30 years in the music scene. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. Sat 7 pm. Sun 5 pm. W66,000 - W99,000. sori21.co.kr 1544-0674 March 30th Suncheon Chorus Suncheon Culture and Art Center. Time and price TBA. scart.or.kr 061-749-3428

Family & Community

Haenam Dinosaur Museum As the first such museum in the region, the Haenam Dinosaur Museum introduces visitors to the rich fossil legacy of Uhangri in Haenam-gun. 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, teens W2,000, children W1,000. uhangridinopia. haenam.go.kr 061-532-7225 Through March 1st Buddhist Culture Exposition Crafts, household items, eco-friendly products and other things related to Buddhism will be on display. This is a great opportunity to see and study Korean Buddhism. Kim Daejung Convention Center in Gwangju. kdjcenter.or.kr 062-611-2000

Through March 1st Playing Experiment with Flour: Garuya Garuya Children stimulate all the senses with this exploration of the substance of flour. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 10 am - 5:30 pm.

Closed Mon. W15,000. sori21.co.kr 063-270-8000

Through May 22nd The Calligraphy of Jeonbuk This exhibition will look into the flow of the calligraphy of Jeonbuk. Your spirit will grow calm and your mind clear with this beautiful calligraphy. Jeonju National Museum. 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Monday.

Free. jeonju.museum.go.kr 063-223-5651

March 1st Magic Show for Kids Both kids and parents will enjoy this funny and exciting 60-minute magic show. Kids will have a chance to come on stage during the magic show. Suncheon Culture and Art Center. 11 am, 2 & 4 pm. W15,000. scart.or.kr 041-523-9555

March 16th - 18th Solar, Wind & Earth Energy Trade Fair (SWEET) 2011 Renewable energy is a future-oriented growth area that is leading the green industry. The SWEET fair specializes in such new and renewable energy. Kim Daejung Convention Center in Gwangju. 10 am 5 pm. Free. sweet.or.kr 062-611-2216

March 12th - 20th International Gwangyang Maehwa Festival Spring is finally here! Get out of your house and enjoy the beautiful maehwa flowers in Gwangyang. There will be various activities to participate in. Gwangyang-si Maehwa Village. gwangyang.go.kr/maehwa 061-797-2721 March 19th - 21st

Sport & Fitness April 17th Gunsan Saemangeum International Marathon 5k, 10k, half, and full, to depart from the Saemangeum Seawall in Gunsan at 8:30 am. W10,000 W30,000, Register by March 25th. smgmara.com 063-452-7731

2011 K-League Football March 5th Gwangju vs Daegu at Gwangju World Cup Stadium, 3 pm.

Jindo Miracle Sea Festival The crossing of the Red Sea is not just a legend in Jindo. Jindo’s sea road will open up so you can cross over on dry land. Experience the miracle and enjoy the festival. miraclesea.jindo.go.kr 061-544-0151 March 25th - April 3rd Gwangju Spring Flower Expo 2011 To encourage more suburban green space, Gwangju is holding a Spring Flower Expo. Approximately 20 themed gardens are on display with a variety of activities and performances. This is a great chance to see some beautiful spring flowers. Kim Daejung Convention Center in Gwangju. 10 am - 6 pm. W1,800 W5,000. flowershow.kr 062-611-2124

March 6th Jeonbuk vs Jeonnam at Jeonju World Cup Stadium, 3 pm.

March 13th Jeonnam vs Pohang at Gwangyang Stadium, 3 pm.

March 20th Jeonbuk vs Busan at Jeonju World Cup Stadium, 3 pm.

Jeonnam vs Seoul at Gwangyang Stadium, 3 pm.

Dozens of volleyball and basketball games are scheduled for this month.

Volleyball games are listed on the website at kovo.co.kr (mostly Korean, though English schedules are also listed). Men’s basketball games are listed on kbl.or.kr (Korean only) and women’s games at wkbl.or.kr (also Korean only).

March 12th - 13th

Theater

On open-run in Seoul, Drawing Show: Hero will also entertain audiences in Jeonju this month. It’s the world’s first live performance that stages the act of painting as its main character, and thus creates a whole new world of art performance. Artists take the stage to exciting music and then dance, draw and paint on the stage right in front of you.

No matter how old or young, everyone has the potential to become a hero. This extraordinary 80-minute show will bring the hero inside you to life while the 3D effects dazzle your eyes.

Throughout the show, laughter, unexpected twists and a moving storyline will keep you on the edge of your seat. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. Sat 3 & 7 pm. Sun 7 pm. W30,000. sori21.co.kr 063-270-8000 Hotels/Accommodations

JEOLLA PROVINCE

Gwangju Youth Hostel 062-943-4378 Ramada Plaza Gwangju ramadagwangju.com 062-717-7000

Foreigner Assistance

Radio

Gwangju International Center gwangjuic.or.kr 062-226-1050 Gwangju Blog gwangjublog.com Inside Jeonju insidejeonju.com The Jeonju Hub thejeonjuhub.com

TBS eFM Gwangju FM 98.7 US Armed Forces Network Gunsan

AM 1440/FM 88.5 Gwangju FM 88.5

Religious Services

First Nepal Restaurant firstnepal.com 062-225-8771 Tequilaz Gwangju’s first Mexican cantina serves up your south-of-the-border favorites with magical margaritas and, of course, killer tequilas. tequilaz.com Underground Grocers Gwangju This foreigner-run food shop has those hardto-find cheeses, taco shells and other delicacies you crave.

062-232-2626

Antioch Presbyterian Church Jeonju andiok.kr 063-274-3228 Iri Joongang Church Iksan 0 63-851-4311 Musang Temple Muan-gun

042-841-6084

Museums Gochang Dolmen Museum 9 am – 5 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, teens W2,000, children W1,000. gcdolmen.go.kr 063-560-2576 Iksan Jewel Museum 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. jewelmuseum.go.kr 063-859-4641 Jeonju Oriental Medicine Cultural Center 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. hanbangcenter.com 063-232-2500 Jeonju Traditional Alcohol Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Free. urisul.net 063-287-6305 Jeonju Traditional Culture Center jt.or.kr 063-280-7045 Mokpo Ceramic Livingware Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. doja.mokpo.go.kr 0 61-270-8480 Mokpo Natural Museum 9 am – 6 pm.

Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. museum.mokpo.go.kr 061-274-3655

Restaurants/Supermarkets

Live Music Venues Bars/Lounges/Pubs Art & Travel Cafe Jeonju Open mic nights every Wednesday from 9 pm.

Facebook group, 011-9437-0208 Deepin Jeonju Popular expat bar with Texas Holdem on Sundays.

019-9646-1028 Led Zeppelin Art Space Jeonju Hosts underground bands both expat and Korean. cafe.daum.net/k250073

018-607-6321 Radio Star Jeonju Under the 7-11 in Junghwasan-dong. 011-9444-9609 Speakeasy Gwangju The fun never stops at this fantastic bar owned and operated by honest Irishman Derrek Hannon.

010-4713-3825 San Antonio Latin Bistro Suncheon Suncheon surprises with this Latinthemed restaurant and bar. Facebook group, pyroz@hotmail.com 061-724-2234

10 Magazine March 2011 | 69

JEOLLA

April 24th Honam International Marathon 5k, 10k, half, and full, to depart from Gwangju World Cup Stadium at 8 am.

W10,000 - W30,000, Register by March 18th. marathon.jnilbo.com 062-519-0730

Drawing Show: Hero

JEJU CALENDAR Art

DIS C OVERY

City Treasures Just Around the Corner If you’re looking for a quiet, comfortable place to kill some time or catch up with friends, check out two great places hiding right under your nose in Shin Jeju. Both are located in Jaewon, just off the popular shopping street.

Fondant Cupcake House (퐁당)

Through March 2nd Are You From the Moon? Are you familiar with the Korean myth “The Moon and the Rabbit”? Science is making it difficult for us to explore myths and expand our imagination. Take this chance to hit the road and go on a mythical journey. Jung-seop Lee Art Museum. 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W1,000, teens W500, children W300. jslee.seogwipo.go.kr 064-733-3555

Performances

JEJU ISLAND Religious Services Jeju Anglican/Episcopal Church Sinjeju 010-2500-6780

Classes Woodcarving and Engraving Workshop Jeju Museum of Art. Weekdays 10 – 11:30 am, 2 – 3:30 pm; weekends 10 – 11:30 am, 2 – 4 pm.

Hotels/Accommodations

Ongoing

Hotel Lotte Jeju 5-Star 064-731-1000 Jeju Hiking Inn Hostel hikinginn.com 064-763-2380

Medical Services Dr. Chung’s Pediatric Clinic chung56@pednet.co.kr 064-748-1546 Hanna Women’s Clinic hannaobgy.com 064-711-7717 E-Pyeonhan Dental Clinic e-pretty.co.kr 064-758-2800

Museums

You could walk by this place every day and never notice it, but once you step inside, you’ll be glad you did. The vibe is charming and welcoming and the cupcakes are delightful. For the best deal, order the coffee/cupcake set for W5,000. Flavors include chocolate, lemon, strawberry and green tea. Fresh frosting is made for each order, so sit back and relax while you wait for your treat. 064-744-2225 Baba Budan (바바부단)

Nanta Nanta, the non-verbal performance that got started ten years ago, is a feast for the ears that turns ordinary kitchen pots and pans into a rhythm section. Jeju Media Center in Jeju City (064-727-7800). 90 min. Sun 8 pm, Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 8 pm. W40,000 W50,000. nanta.i-pmc.co.kr 1544-1555 March 12th - 13th My Way: The Shin Seung-Hoon Show This sensitive balladeer performs at the International Convention Center Jeju. Sat 7 pm, Sun 6 pm. W55,000 - W110,000. iccjeju.co.kr 064-744-0766 March 18th - 19th I Do Love You! The Play As the spring season approaches, love seems to be blossoming everywhere. This romantic comedy will surely warm wintry hearts.

Korean. Jeju Culture and Art Center.

Fri 7:30 pm, Sat 6:30 pm. W20,000. jejuculture.or.kr 010-4441-8558 March 25th - 26th King Sejong Is Furious This fun family musical reveals the secrets of learning hangeul. Korean.

Jeju Culture and Art Center. Fri 10:10 & 11:20 am, Sat 11 am, 2 & 4 pm. W5,000 W20,000. jejuculture.or.kr 010-2014-1477

Concerts

JEJU ISLAND

March 3rd Kim Hyun-Kyung Duo Recital Jeju Culture and Art Center. 7:30 pm.

W10,000. jejuculture.or.kr 010-4916-1708

This isn’t your typical coffee shop. With curtained-off rooms of different sizes and themes, you can enjoy peace and privacy.

There’s a large menu and free wi-fi (the code is displayed by the cash register). Although the coffee is a bit more expensive than most places, the atmosphere is worth it. It’s the perfect spot to read a book, do some work or take a nap. 064-747-3001 Getting There

Take the 502 or 20 bus to Shin Jeju and get off at the “Jaewon Apateu” (재원 아파트) stop. Walk downhill to the first intersection.

You’ll find both cafes on Sindae-ro 12-gil. Turn right to get to Fondant Cupcake house. On the sign outside, the café’s name is transliterated into Hangeul (퐁당), so “Fondant” actually reads “Pohng Dang.” If in doubt, just look for an orange circle with a picture of a cupcake in it. To reach Baba Budan, cross the street and look to the right. Words and shots by A ngela Jacobus 70 | 10 Magazine March 2011

March 5th Halla Wind Ensemble: 48th Concert Jeju Culture and Art Center. 7 pm.

W1,000 - W5,000. jejuculture.or.kr 010-6798-1155 March 12th Jeju Saxophone Ensemble Jeju Culture and Art Center. 7:30 pm.

Free. jejuculture.or.kr 010-5693-9497 March 17th Hye-gyeong Lee Violin Recital Jeju Culture and Art Center. 7:30 pm.

Free. jejuculture.or.kr 010-2847-8247 March 19th Missionary Choir: 10th Concert The choir attached to FEBC Korea-Jeju is giving its 10th concert at the Jeju Culture and Art Center. 7 pm. Free. jejuculture.or.kr 010-4690-3824

Jeju Peace Museum Recounts the tragedy of forced laborers who worked during WWII. peacemuseum.co.kr 064-772-2500 Halla Arboretum A collection of hundreds of trees and flowers native to the island. Jeju City. Free. sumokwon.jeju.go.kr 064-710-7575

Radio Arirang Radio Jeju City: FM 88.7 Seogwipo: FM 88.1

Restaurants Bagdad Cafe Indian. Delicious, authentic Indian food made from local ingredients in a gorgeous atmosphere. Near City Hall in Jeju City 064-757-8182 Dom Jang Japanese. Spectacular sushi in several locations all over the island.

The best atmosphere is in Jungmun.

064-738-2550

Island Gecko’s Western. A varied menu of terrific Western food, plus maybe the best cocktails and service on the island.

The BBQ nights every weekend will blow you away with ribeye steak, sausages, and more for only W19,000. Jungmun.

064-739-0845 geckosterrace.com The Plate This modern bistro serves up a great American-style hamburger along with other Thai dishes. 064-746-8008 Zapata’s Mexican. Find it behind Burger King near City Hall in Jeju City.

064-722-3369

Bars/Lounges/Pubs Boris Brewery The brewer at the successful Modern Time Brewpub is opening up another shop with beer and Spanish sangria based on a 30-year-old recipe.

064-726-4141 Bull’s Darts Bar As the name suggests, they’ve got five dart boards, a variety of games, and even a women’s dart league.

Near City Hall in Jeju City. 064-759-5559 Modern Time With locations at Grand Hotel Sageori and City Hall, this microbrewery provides beer lovers with some of the best homemade ales in Korea.

064-748-4180

NETWORKING CALENDAR

Puttin’ on the Ritz The 2011 ball and gala season is here, folks! After a long winter’s hibernation, it’s time to dress your best and enjoy an evening of friends and fun. And remember that most of these organizations hold these balls to raise funds that will be donated to worthy charities, so you can feel good about attending and participating, too. Bring along plenty of spare cash for the wonderful auctions and raffle tickets, which will be offering up some amazing prizes thanks to big donations from businesses big and small. There are plenty of options to choose from, so pick a date and an organization and go have a ball!

March 4th Carnival on the River Rhein and Han Important figures in the German business and diplomatic communities including the German ambassador himself have formed a Seoul Carnival Preparation Committee to head up this new annual ball.

T h e m e German Carnival (appropriate costume encouraged); L o c a t i o n Millennium Seoul Hilton Hotel; P r i c e W80,000; I n c l u d e s carnival buffet, beer, wine, and makgeolli, ballet performance, ABBA revival band; R e s e r v a t i o n s 1-skv.kr (in German and Korean) or call 02-790-4774

Thursday, March 3rd SIWA Newcomer’s Meeting Seoul Club. siwapage.com Tuesday, March 8th International Women’s Day Centenary Celebration Seoul Women’s Plaza Art Hall. internationalwomensdaykorea.com Thursday, March 10th FKCCI “The Cafe du Commerce” Novotel Ambassador Gangnam. fkcci.com Friday, March 11th SIWA Supreme Court Tour Seocho Stn. (line 2, ex. 5). siwapage.com Sunday, March 13th R ASKB Changbok Palace and Secret Garden Tour Seoul. raskb.com Thursday, March 17th SIWA Korean Market Tour and Cooking Class Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex. 4). siwapage.com Friday, March 18th AWC Monthly Meeting Hillside Clubhouse in Seoul. 9:30 am. awckorea-seoul.org Monday, March 21st DIWA Craft Class Daegu. diwakorea.com

April 16th American Women’s Club Gala Join the ladies of AWC at the fabulous Banyan Tree and help them raise money for some great charities.

T h e m e Cherry Blossom Gala; L o c a t i o n Banyan Tree Hotel & Resort; P r i c e W80,000 nonmembers, W75,000 for members; I n c l u d e s buffet dinner, live music; R e s e r v a t i o n s awckorea-seoul.org

April 2nd Dutch Association in Korea’s Orange Ball Join the Dutch community as it celebrates 50 years of diplomatic relations with South Korea.

Guests can enjoy great food and drinks, and a band coming all the way from the Netherlands.

T h e m e Black Tie; L o c a t i o n Grand Hyatt Ballroom P r i c e W200,000; I n c l u d e s sit-down dinner, full open bar, dancing, live band, raffle, auctions; R e s e r v a t i o n s dutchorangeball.com

May 28th British Association of Seoul’s Queen’s Birthday Ball Details are still being worked out on this one, as it’s still a ways off. All you Brits out there should set aside the date, though!

T h e m e Secret; L o c a t i o n Grand Hyatt Hotel’s Grand Ballroom; P r i c e TBA; R e s e r v a t i o n s britishseoul.com

Monday, March 28th DIWA Korean Traditional Painting Daegu. diwakorea.com Tuesday, March 29th BASS Designer Gown Raffle Seoul Club. britishseoul.com Wednesday, March 30th SIWA President’s Blue House Tour Gyeongbok Palace Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). siwapage.com AMCHAM AWC BASS DIWA

FKCCI

RASKB SIWA

American Chamber of Commerce American Women’s Club British Association of Seoul Daegu International Women’s Association French Chamber of Commerce and Industry Korea Royal Asiatic Society Korea Branch Seoul Int’l Women’s Association

To list your event, contact David Carruth at calendar@10magazine.asia or 02-3447-1610

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10 Magazine March 2011 | 71

NETWORKING CALENDAR

March 12th Seoul International Women’s Association Gala One of Korea’s most popular organizations, SIWA lives up to the “international” in its name, with a truly global membership. If you’re looking to meet people from all over the world, then this is the ball for you.

T h e m e Rockin’ Around the Clock (cocktail dress or 1950s-inspired outfit); L o c a t i o n Grand Hilton Hotel; P r i c e W90,000; I n c l u d e s cocktails, buffet dinner, open bar, dancing, silent auction R e s e r v a t i o n s tickets@siwapage.com

April 30th Australia-New Zealand Association Ball The legendary ANZA Ball is known for it’s zany antics. Last year’s Priscilla Queen of the Desert-like MC brought down the house with his crazy antics, and everyone is taking bets on what he’ll be wearing this year. This is one raucous good time.

T h e m e Ocean’s 11; L o c a t i o n Grand Hyatt Hotel’s Grand Ballroom; P r i c e W225,000 members, W245,000 non-members; I n c l u d e s sit-down dinner, full open bar, live music from The Rat Pack’s Back band; R e s e r v a t i o n s anzakorea.com

Wednesday, March 23rd SIWA Tour of Bongeum-sa and Lecture on Korean Buddhism Samseong Stn. (line 2, ex. 6). siwapage.com

FYI for FOB Words by A da m Booth e , I llustration by Pat r ick Volz

S

pring is here. You can tell by all of the fresh-faced new English teachers running around. I’m sure we’ll get a good crop of young college-educated non-criminals.

They can be seen everywhere this time of year. And they’re so cute, aren’t they? – clutching subway maps like golden tickets, staring long at menus, and recoiling from the morning sun after their first hoeshik (회 식). Unfortunately, like most cute people, the magic disappears when they speak.

Most new arrivals come to the same conclusions and make the same observations as all their predecessors. This is no fault of their own, but it makes for boring conversations. No one says anything fresh in their first year.

To all the newbies, allow me to affirm some of your developing observations. I’ll 72 | 10 Magazine March 2011

think your thoughts so you don’t have to.

You can fast forward and get over all this.

You don’t have to waste your time arriving at the same clichés as everyone that came before you.

First off, Yes – you are invisible. When walking on the streets, Koreans will bump into you, walk in front of you and even suddenly stop mid-stride. This makes a standard walk through a city like a game of Pitfall!. If you let it slide, you’ll be fine. If you let it bother you, you’ll find yourself getting unreasonably angry at senior citizens.

As mentioned above, you are totally invisible, except when you’re totally the opposite. Yes – people stare at you. The amount of stares will increase as you get further away from metropolitan areas. In Seoul, you might get two stares a week. In Jeolla-do, that might jump up tenfold.

The staring might be for completely positive reasons because Yes – in Korea, you are more attractive than you were in your home country. Gender is not a factor here. Your grotesque features, lanky frame, and pastiness are celebrated as signs of beauty.

Even if you try, you can’t avoid thinking about your appearance because Yes – Koreans are generally quite straightforward when it comes to discussing your looks.

You may get told you should lose weight or that you look older than you are. Conversely, people are quick to say how beautiful you are. It’s not vapid superficiality.

It’s something closer to matterof-fact honesty, the way your mother used to be.

Nightlife in Korea is another interesting aspect. Yes – the bars and clubs go all night and Koreans of all ages party hard. Yes – it is relatively cheap for a long night out. And Yes – soju is the devil. All of this makes Korean nightlife dangerous. Of course, you won’t believe me until you try it yourself just like I didn’t believe those who warned me.

Ye s – you ca n get by w it h barely speaking the language because so much English is available. This English is there to help you. And Yes – Koreans often make mistakes using English, and Yes – these mistakes are often unintentionally hilarious. Acknowledge it, give it a smirk and keep it moving. That’s the appropriate response. Collecting photos of it on your Facebook page to show friends back home makes you a little condescending and a lot of a jerk. No one is impressed.

Finally, and it is a shame this even needs to be said, Yes – Korea is different than your home. Those differences can be at times frustrating and annoying; however, the differences can create good conversations with cool people. If you spend your time here complaining and focusing on the things you are lacking, you will never give yourself a chance to enjoy all of the things that you do have.

Good luck, and see you next spring, - if you make it.