for surfers
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NOV/DEC 2012
NO-
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L A C A S A . N E T. A U
CONTENTS
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EDITOR’S NOTE How good!
FIND THIS AND DIE (SMILING)
LONG RANGE Cyclone forecast
Caribbean dreaming
47 75 97 SINGLE LENS REFLUX
BLENDING THE RAILS
The Alex Marks profile
Gold Coast shaper profiles
FUTURE MEN Kalani Ball
107 119 123 club Keramas Cover The reality of Pipeline during peak season: crowded, dangerous, frantic and thrilling. Snag one of the set waves from the mob and you’ll be a different man… ya girl might not even recognise you – particularly if you don’t make it out of the cavern! Photo: Alex Marks
We investigate the environmental and social impacts of a dreamy resort overlooking one of the world’s dreamiest waves.
MUSIC INK
The Upskirts and Willow Beats reviews by Jake ‘Yaki’ Newell
CONTRIBUTORS & FEEDBACK FORM Good peoples & Your thoughts
SUBSCRIBE NOW A tree would thank you if it could.
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editor ’ s note
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how good! How good are Caribbean adventures? So damn good, especially when someone gives you a coupla hot tips on where to find a wave you’ll never want to leave. And what about new resorts with infinity pools over-looking flawless waves? With women! In bikinis. They’re the finest, especially when a guy like Luke Egan is responsible. Don’t get us wrong, we hate crowded lineups just as much as you, but development was imminent at Keramas in Bali. We’re lucky a worldly surfer got his paws on the land first. And summer! You can’t tell me summer isn’t good. You know what it means in Australia? More bikinis, cyclones and swell. Relentless swell! We’ll drink to that. How good are surfboard shapers? They’re fundamental to the sport. And photographers? How good are those guys and girls? Incredibly good. Without them we wouldn’t exist and how hard would that suck? Very hard. What about up-an-coming groms dominating surfing events? Well shit… they must be bloody good. And how good are ed notes which give you an idea of what’s inside the magazine you’re reading? Any good? Oh yeah and finally: how good are paperless mags? Don’t ask me. I’m the wrong person to query… you’ll need to flip the page to find out. AM
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It’s time to get your thinking caps on as we round the bend into prime surfing season for the Caribbean region.
photography Chris Burkard
The Caribbean skies were constantly changing, but this wave remained true throughout the entire trip
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Find this and die (smiling)
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Find this and die (smiling)
If
you’ve ever thought about finding a resting place near a warm-water wave, this could be for you – bottomless aqua blue cylinders, spinning down a perfectly angled sandbar. With no one out. Firstly. Find the place. It’s an island in a sea of over 7,000 that comprise the West Indies. In comparison with others, it’s a small island. Once you do. Build shelter (hurricane proof), a bed, live off the land, keep it simple. Or alternatively, hook up an aerial, tap into a satellite, run the internet, capture an inspiring moment, post a daily blog, grow an audience, sign advertisers, make money, survive handsomely, but most importantly keep your location quiet. Either way you’re in for a memorable time.
Seriously, a coupla American boys ventured to this island and struggled to leave – Ben Bourgeois, Asher Nolan, Zander Morton and photographer Chris Burkard peeled out only because it was the day before Christmas and their close ones would disown them for missing the festivities. They scored day after day. From sunrise to sunset the waves kept perfect shape. The lips thumping in a coupla feet of water and peeling with machine like precision… only a coupla metres from dry land. Not phased by tide, wind, or changing swell, meant all day surfs were punctuated by refuelling on land. But don’t be fooled. This wave only breaks a handful of days each year. That’s not to say the beachies around the corner are fickle too… if ya know what we mean!
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We can’t tell you where this particular wave is or the island. But, here are some hot tips: - The Caribbean has seven surf regions: Dominican Republic, Puerto Rico, British Virgin Islands, Barbados, Trinidad and Tobago, Jamaica and Cuba. - Best Season – October to March (dry season). Waves are consistent and powerful. - Local vibe is mellow. Crowd factor – low for most breaks. Locals can get heavy at tightly guarded reefs – just wait your turn and you’ll get barreled. In general, it’s a relaxed and friendly vibe. - The water is clean and ridiculously deep! The Puerto Rico trench, situated on the edge of the Atlantic Ocean and Caribbean Sea just to the north of Puerto Rico, is the deepest point in all of the Atlantic Ocean.
- There are quality surf breaks littered everywhere and more to be discovered. - It doesn’t get Hawaii huge but you can expect plenty of solid three-to-six foot days and the occasional eight-to-twelve foot days. - Dangers in the Caribbean. Anything from sun protection (cake it on), to robbery, to hustlers, taxi charges, toxic drugs to Cuban cigars. Be aware of what’s going on around you at all times. Don’t buy narcotics – it’s a no brainer really. Avoid seedy looking characters who talk very softly. - Hurricanes can batter and bruise the region. The hurricane belt arcs to northwest of the island of Barbados in the eastern Caribbean. But don’t freak – if you travel in the optimum surfing season, chances are strong winds won’t ruffle you because hurricane season lasts from June to November.
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With waves breaking fast and close to shore Asher Nolan grabs rail and tucks underneath a draining ba
arrel
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Find this and die (smiling)
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Just another Caribbean mirage
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Find this and die (smiling)
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Heavy feet in the sand turn weightless upon seeing this wave peak. Asher Nolan taking in the serenity b
before hightailing into the lineup
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Find this and die (smiling)
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With light slowly fading no one wanted to paddle in and the waves sure weren’t showing any sign of slo
owing down
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Find this and die (smiling)
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Find this and die (smiling)
Being the mastermind behind the whole trip, it’s fair to say Ben Bourgeois deserved to have priority on every wave this day
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Find this and die (smiling)
From sunrise to sunset the waves kept perfect form. Not phased by tide, wind, or changing swell
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Find this and die (smiling)
The view each surfer on the trip saw countless times
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Find this and die (smiling)
Flawless in both shape and colour. It seems Ben Bourgeois is building a reputation for finding undiscovered waves
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Some of the barrels this day began to resemble the sky above. Zander Morton speeds through a Caribbea
an skylight
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Find this and die (smiling)
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On days like these, when the water is warm and the waves are perfect, pounding shore break becomes sur
rprisingly friendly
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Find this and die (smiling)
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The sand would start to mix with the wave that at times resembled a shorebreak. Ben Bourgeois covered
d up by just as much sand as water
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Find this and die (smiling)
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cyclone lines pour into snapper rocks, queensland, australia. Photo: 18seconds
As El Nino begins to neutralise we take a gander at how the looming cyclone season is taking shape for the east coast of Australia.
text Steve Shearer photography Credited
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Long Range
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Long Range
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El Nada and the cyclone season. Greetings weather junkies. Since we spoke last, spring has indeed driven the good men and women of the east coast of Australia fairly mad. We predicted a grovel fest and that’s come to pass. It’s now time to turn our attention forwards to the upcoming summer surf season and try to survey the ocean/atmospheric terrain to see if we can illuminate the broad scale patterns which might influence our surf prospects. It’s the distribution of warm water in the western Pacific (that’s our side) that determines the frequency and size of cyclones and this warm water is primarily determined by the state of the ENSO cycle. A La Nina means warm water is being pushed by over-active tradewinds into our side of the Pacific with more chances of cyclogenesis. El Nino means cooler waters here with weaker tradewinds and less chance of cyclones. Last article the ENSO cycle seemed to be tipping into El Nino territory but the news this time around is more positive. Most ENSO indicators have now retreated from El Nino territory into the neutral zone. Some of these key indicators include the Southern Oscillation Index, tradewind strength and sea surface temperatures across the eastern equatorial Pacific. So now it appears the El Nino was El Nada and we are moving back into a weak neutral pattern, what surf prospects can we riff on?
First of all, an early start to the season is extremely unlikely. Mostly because sea surface temperatures and convection aren’t high enough to really kick anything off. A pattern of weaker tradewinds in our Coral Sea and south Pacific swell windows doesn’t look like changing anytime soon either, so the rest of spring continues to have low odds for a resurgence in consistent surf at least from the preferred eastern swell window. The better news is with the weak El Nino pattern breaking down. Odds are increasing we’re in for a reasonable cyclone season and the focus of the cyclone formation will be in the South Pacific Convergence Zone. This zone of warm water stretches from the tip of Papua New Guinea and covers an area including the Solomon Islands and stretching down to Fiji and Vanuatu. Cyclones forming in this area are responsible for the best and cleanest swells for the east coast, especially when they track into the Coral Sea from behind Vanuatu and New Caledonia. We all remember Wati, Bola, Fina, Sose. All these cyclones formed in the South Pacific Convergence Zone and drifted into the eastern swell window.
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Already there are signs of convection and weak, broad areas of low pressure off the tip of PNG and the Solomons, and this will be the area to watch as we transition out of the spring doldrums into December and January. A best case scenario is for the Nino pattern to continue to weaken with a return to normal tradewinds in the south Pacific/Coral Sea and a semi-permanent area of low pressure squeezing on the top of the high. This would get the south east Queensland/ north east New South Wales wave machine working again with super consistent threeto-four foot tradewind swell, hopefully in time for the Christmas zoo. But hold on, we’re getting ahead of ourselves here, this flat spell has been messing with my head. Only a complete lunatic would make a call this far out. Keep the skis in the garage and the big wave sleds well sheathed for a while yet, but odds are now firming the south Pacific could deliver quality cyclone or tropical depression swells over the summer season. Stay tuned next time for an examination of the MJO pulse, the great tropical atmospheric wave that strongly influences the development of cyclones and tropical low pressure. Till then, happy grovelling.
tropical cyclone wati was a classic system pushing lines of swell into the east coast of australia for weeks. Images: BOM
Long Range
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The better news is with the weak El Nino pattern breaking down, odds are increasing we’re in for a reasonable cyclone season and the focus of the cyclone formation will be in the South Pacific Convergence Zone.
Photo: 18seconds
Already there are signs of convection and weak, broad areas of low pressure off the tip of PNG and the Solomons, and this will be the area to watch as we transition out of the spring doldrums into December and January. 18SECONDS MAGAZINE
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Single Lens Reflux Bringing up the lives of SAVVY lensmen ALEX MARKS bluesnapper.com.au
interview Andy Morris
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ALEX MARKS
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Did you notice what we did here? With the subhead in the feature name? We changed it from legendary to savvy for Alex. Cheeky aye. Not saying the guy’s not a legend, but we have our reasons. Firstly, his skin is far too youthful to fall into the legendary category (that’s reserved for sun kissed guys over 35 and Alex is a mere 30!). Secondly, Alex is experienced and well-informed – he understands the skill set required these days to have the luxury of shooting the ocean every morning without living off chickpeas and tuna. He’s expanded his offering. That’s savvy. “I’m not a surf photographer,” says Alex. “I’m a photographer who shoots weddings, portraits, what I see, travel, lifestyle and a bit of surfing on the side. “If I relied on buyouts for ads and mags I would make about 10-15 k a year,” Alex admits. “You should see the cost of living here in Sydney. I would be on the streets!” His website, bluesnapper.com.au provides daily surf and lifestyle gear from Sydney’s northern beaches and has a solid following. The images are arousing, particularly for surfers: a blend of soft morning glows, punctuated with hard, cracking barrels – a regular fixture along Sydney’s northern beaches (when a swell’s running).
Speaking of the northern beaches, they offer a wide variety for photographers and great eye candy for people who need an escape from the stuff they’ve been staring at all morning. Or from their hilarious, yet annoying and immature colleagues. “There are 17 beaches within a 40 k stretch,” says Alex. “Every beach handles swell, wind and light in its own way.” If you’re familiar with bluesnapper you’ll know Alex likes to shoot a mixture of land and water. But how does he make his mind up? “That’s easy! I only shoot in the water when it’s super clean and under four foot,” he says. “I’m no hellman. I’m more interested in arty, scenic stuff in the water. I love the creativity I can get on the land. It’s warmer and I have a way better chance of not drowning!” When we contacted Alex for this feature he’d just survived his last night of freedom (buck’s party) and was gearing up for his wedding. Needles to say he was ridiculously busy juggling a hangover, wedding stuff and his business. Alex still made deadline and recorded a coupla words about his finest shots (how professional!). So please, make sure you hit the play button on each photo to hear what these words are. You only have to lift one finger.
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BLENDING THE RAILS
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text
Andy Morris photography
Andrew Shield
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From small players to The Who’s Who of shapers, the Gold Coast is one of the globe’s most recognised boardbuilding communities.
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There’s one word, just one, which is responsible for shaping the Gold Coast’s revolution in surfboard design and subsequent shaping lifestyle found today. Wait for it... the word… Kirra. Can you believe it?
It’s true. You see, back in the mid ‘70s guys like Michael ‘MP’ Peterson, Wayne ‘Rabbit’ Bartholomew, Peter ‘PT’ Townend and Wayne Deane started cutting down longboards to handle the groove in Kirra’s spinning barrels. Mals just couldn’t cut it. They needed manoeuvrability in their boards to ride Kirra’s legendary tubes. In the space of a week, these guys went from riding the nose, to sitting behind the curtain, 20-foot deep at Kirra... for up to 15 seconds at a time. Granted, these cut-downs had the wrong rocker, the curves were terrible. No one knew about the proper rails and bottom rocker for shortboards. But it was revolutionary at the time.
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Longboards were gone (temporarily). There was a new rage… performance boards were found. Barrel rides were found! And the building blocks of Gold Coast surfboard design were laid. These days, visit the Gold Coast during a straight easterly swell, light southwest winds, packed sand along the points (recipe for oh so fine waves!) and it’s easy to see why some of the best shapers and surfers in the world live along the 32 k stretch. Consequently, it’s one of the globe’s most recognised boardbuilding communities.
To the north, you’ve got guys like Stuart Smith (Stuart Surf) and Jason Rodd (JR). A little south there’s Wayne Lowen (Lowen88) and at the old Base factory guys like Darren Handley (DHD), Murray Bourton (Bourton Shapes) and Darren Symes (DS surfboards). Smack bang in the middle are Nev Hyman (Firewire), Allan Byrne (Byrning Spears), Ian Byrne (Mt Woodgee), Wayne McKewan (Mt Woodgee), Dan McDonald (DMS) and Woody Jack Surfboards. Then there’s Jason Stevenson (JS Industries) and Dave Verrall (Diverse). On the southern end are a bunch including, Lee Stacey (Stacey Surfboards), Garry Dorrington (Dorrington Surfboards), Dane Hamilton (Hammo Surfboards), Lee Cheyne Designs and Paul Ward (Wardy Surfboards).
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The bulk of these guys’ boards are finely tuned performance shortboards. Why? Because surfers need boards with fast reaction times to respond to the waves on the Gold Coast. The beachbreaks are steep and punchy, and ideal for progressive surfing. The points, long and fast. It’s common for average and elite surfers to lay down eight turns on one wave to truly get a feel of their boards and give articulate feedback to their shapers: what works for them, what doesn’t, where it could be tweaked. As a result, the GC shapers are constantly listening, tuning their skills, evolving their designs and being influenced by guys spending a lot of time with boards under their feet. Blending the rails. And it’s this amount of surfing and design experimentation that has been the catalyst for some of the most sort after performance shapes in the world. “You get so many more opportunities to iron out the bugs in your surfing and perfect your timing and boards,” says Mick Fanning who has been working closely with Darren Handley for years. But all isn’t peachy on the GC. It’s an ideal area to live, surf and work as a shaper, but competition is fierce. With the introduction of surfboard design software and shaping machines, falling profit margins (materials and labor costs, verses retail price), most had to invest in the technology or risk falling behind on productivity and margins. And the flood of local competition and young talent hurt everyone. Also, with the influx of imported boards from China, many players were forced to lower their retail prices even further in an already small margin.
As I talk to the shapers I get an overwhelming feeling of perseverance amongst them. They’re a hardened bunch. They know times have been tough. The very public collapse of Base Surfboards and subsequent closure of the factory on October 13 2011, was the tell tale sign of an industry in trouble. Base was the parent company for a bunch of fine labels, Simon Anderson, Darren Handley and Murray Bourton. Base sold globally whilst sharing costs individual labels would normally wear by themselves such as legals, business buyouts, setup, distribution etc. The problem: the rising Australian dollar hiking above one US dollar and the fact that 40 percent of their market was exporting to global surf regions under license deals. There are some guys who’ve been forced to work second jobs to provide money for their families (building houses, working in mines). Some have stripped back their operations to bare basics, reducing overheads, to skim as much profit from the small margins. In contrast others are prospering – expanding factories, employing extra staff. But for all of them there’s one thing in common: it’s always been a lifestyle choice rather than a commercial choice. Most can, and do, down tools when the wind swings offshore and that beats the hell out of an office job.
MURRAY BOURTON
Label: Bourton Shapes Shaping Since: 1970 Known For: “Early in the piece I was known for being an Indonesian specialist having spent a lot of time there through the ‘80s and ‘90s. Of late still plying that tag, but have become a quad exponent for here [Gold Coast] and there. Probably also known for kicking-off some other careers for well-known Goldy shapers – namely Darren Handley and Jason Stevenson.”
Philosophy: “Since I’ve seen over 40 years of surfboard manufacturing culture evolve, I’m strident in the belief that it will only survive if the end user re-acquaints with the shaper himself. Then everybody gets a good deal.” Favourite Thing About The Gold Coast: “It’s a great place to get away from, but equally a great place to come back to.” Quirky Fact: “I spent time in the slammer around the same time as Al Merrick did in the ‘70s. The big difference was he came out looking for God and I came out looking for beaver!”
Influences: “Originally through the ‘70s I was influenced by Gordon Merchant [Billabong Founder] and Michael Peterson [Australian shaper and surfing legend]. Now I follow my own path, but that path is influenced by everything going on around me.”
bourtonshapes.com
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ALLAN BYRNE
IAN BYRNE
Label: Byrning Spears
Label: Mt Woodgee Surfboards
Shaping Since: 1969
Shaping Since: 1983
Known For: “Performance, quality, hand-shaped channel bottom boards and the Byrning Spears hand/eye Logo.”
Known For: “Channel Bottoms, anything that goes fast and the ‘Ern Byrne’ bottom turn. The 1980 New Zealand junior surfing champion. Shaping for Gary ‘Kong’ Elkerton.”
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Influences: Col Smith, Jim Pollard, North Shore. Philosophy: “Surfing makes it all better.” Favourite Thing About The Gold Coast: “Amazing waves, beaches and lifestyle.” Quirky Fact: “The exceptional speed of my boards produced a long spray of wash that looked like flames coming from under the surfboard and gave the impression of the board burning, consequently the name ‘Byrning Spears’.”
byrningspears.com
Influences: “My big brother Al Byrne, Nick Anagnostou; shaper and founder of Mt Woodgee Surfboards. Wayne McKewen, Gill Glover, Pat Rawson, Don Johnson, Ronny Woodward and Mark Rabbidge. I was lucky enough to share in some of their wisdom.” Philosophy: “Love life and it’ll love you back.” Favourite Thing About The Gold Coast: “Burleigh Heads and barrels.” Quirky Fact: “How long is a piece of string? Twice as long as half it’s length!”
mtwoodgee.com.au
LEE CHEYNE
Label: Lee Cheyne Designs Shaping Since: 1992 Known For: Quality surfboards. Influences: “Jason Hoko, Al Byrne, Al Merrick, Wade Tokoro, Eric Arakawa and Wayne Deane.” Philosophy: “Never stop learning!” Favourite Thing About The Gold Coast: “Everyone’s a shaper or a pro surfer and it’s currently the coolest place to go broke.” Quirky Fact: “Sometimes I fantasize about having a proper job.”
leecheynesurfboards.com
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GARY DORRINGTON
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Label: Dorrington Surfboards Shaping Since: 1979 Known For: “Custom shaping all kinds of crafts from small grommie boards to Indo-guns and travel boards.” Influences: “Great surfer/shapers like Neil Oke, Mark Richards, Larry Bertlemann and Surfers Tom Curran, Andy Irons and Mark Sainsbury.” Philosophy: “Do unto others as you would have them do unto you.” Favourite Thing About The Gold Coast: “The quality of waves, warm weather, lots of mates and good times, and being able to have a great lifestyle of work, shape and surf.” Quirky Fact: “Freckle-faced, short-arse guy constantly mistaken for Damian Oliver [jockey] at the Melbourne Cup [horse races].”
DANE HAMILTON
Label: Hammo Surfboards Shaping Since: 1998 Known For: “I guess people would probably put me into the more ‘performance board’ category but I like to think my boards cater for every individual. I’m always willing to experiment with new ideas and keep improving on my boards until I’m happy. Then do it all over again with a new model!” Influences: “My dad Mick, would have to be the greatest influence on my life and career. He’s shaped and had surf shops his whole life. He pushed me into my first wave. I’ve also done a lot of work in the factory with Darren Handley [DHD] and Jason Stevenson [JS] earlier on which has certainly given me a great foundation to work from.”
Philosophy: “Equipment can get technical but surfing itself should be kept simple. For me, surfing is more about hanging out with your mates (or your girl) and just having fun. No egos, no hassles... I just want to keep all my mates happy with what their riding.” Favourite Thing About The Gold Coast: “The quality of waves right on our doorstep and the standard of surfing always pushes me to constantly look for new ways to improve the boards we make.” Quirky Fact: “Contrary to popular belief, I’m a lover not a fighter.”
hammo.com.au
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DARREN HANDLEY
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Label: DHD Shaping Since: for over 22 years Known For: “High performance boards and shaping for Mick Fanning.”
FavoUrite Thing About The Gold Coast: “It’s where I grew up, the memories of surfing Kirra and the amazing waves.” Quirky Fact: “I was an electrician before I was a shaper. I shape in the nude sometimes – it keeps people out of my shaping bay. At my level I get too many people coming into my bay, so I just get nude and it stops them coming in!”
Influences: “At the start it was guys like Al Merrick and what was coming out of America influencing me. Now it comes from my team riders. They tell me what they want their boards to be like, so they can do what they want to do.” Philosophy: “It used to be swell, wind, tide waits for no one because I used to drop my tools all the time and go surfing. Now it’s look after my team riders and they’ll look after me.”
dhdsurf.com
NEV HYMAN
Label: Firewire (previously Nev Future Shapes) Shaping Since: 1973 Known For: “The ability to design and shape sweet boards for average to elite surfers, globally. And over the past 20 years being instrumental in advancing the use of technology in the design and construction of surfboards. Notably my involvement in the evolution of APS300/Aku Shaper from day one, and subsequently the founding of Firewire, arguably the most innovative surfboard company around today.”
Favourite Thing About The Gold Coast: “Cove and the Rock Break at Burleigh Heads.” Quirky Fact: “I have two Guinness World Records for the biggest surfboard and for the most surfers riding one board on a wave. 47 at Snapper during the Quiksilver Pro March 2005 and with 60 at Huntington Beach during the US Open, July 2005.”
Influences: “Ian Cairns, Shaun Tomson, Eric Arakawa, Glen Minami, Webber, Al Merrick, Rusty, Bert Burger, Mark Price, my kids and my beautiful, and inspiring wife.” Philosophy: “Keep your radar on 24/7 for opportunities, do unto others as you would have them do unto you, all the while staying true to the mantra… neva say neva and neva look back!” firewiresurfboards.com and nevhyman.posterous.com
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WOODY JACK
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Label: Woody Jack Surfboards Shaping Since: 2000 Known For: “Performance shortboards and fishes.” Influences: “Greg Webber, Rod Dahlberg, Mark Richards and Nat Young.” Philosophy: “Treat all people with respect and don’t be racist.” Favourite Thing About The Gold Coast: “Long running barrels.” Quirky Fact: “I had a malignant Melanoma [skin cancer] when I was 16.”
woodyjack.com
WAYNE LOWEN
Label: Lowen88 Shaping Since: 1988. “Allan Byrne and Bob Davie were looking for a young talented surfer to teach how to shape and approached me at a contest in Raglan New Zealand. I was straight into it, hand-shaping Byrning Spears six channels, sanding and foiling fins.”
Philosophy: “We all have unique body types and styles of surfing so what works for one person will not work for others so be open minded and try different outlines, concave/vee, rails and fins until you find what suits you.” Favourite Thing About The Gold Coast: “Burleigh heads, the warm climate, fun barrels and it’s the place to be if you love surfing, and making surfboards.”
Known For: “Surfing too much and not being open when the waves are good. Custom made surfboards. I can make anything from a 4’2” mini simon to 16-feet downwind SUPs but I specialize in boards for our local waves from performance fishes, semi fishes and high performance shortboard designs.” Influences: “Shapers: Allan Byrne, Bob Davie, Ian Byrne, Jason Hoko, Chris Garrett, Rod Dahlberg, Simon Anderson, Al Merrick, Rusty Preisendorfer, John Caper, Matt Biolos, Jason Stevenson. Surfers: Tom Curren, Mark Occhilupo, Kelly Slater, Shane Dorian, Andy Irons, Dave Rastovich and Dane Reynolds.”
lowen88.com
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BLENDING THE RAILS
DANIEL MACDONALD
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Label: DMS Shaping Since: 1997 Known For: “Shaping fine tuned high performance shortboards using our patented carbon wrap system but also hand crafted hybrid fishes and traditional logs, alaias, singlefins, mini simmons and anything that’s functional but fun. I believe the finished product should look as striking as the shape itself. Working with pigments, tints and hand crafting our own fins brings a new dimension to custom craft and design. I’m 100% hands on… it’s that simple.”
Influences: “Matt Biolos – he’s a great mentor who showed me to look outside the box and experiment with different elements. There was a bunch of mentors from when I worked in the states. Timmy Patterson and Matt Biolos were inspirational. Even Jason Stevenson [JS] here in Australia for high performance – he’s been a great influence. Also Al Byrne is a great mate. He’s a pure legend and master craftsman and someone you can learn a lot from. I’m working closely with AB on guns with riders at the moment.” Favourite Thing About The Gold Coast: “South Stradbroke [island], warm water, bikinis... that’s it!” Quirky Fact: “I went to 13 schools growing up.”
dmshapes.com
WAYNE MCKEWEN
Label: Mt Woodgee Surfboards Shaping Since: 1987 Known For: “All types of high performance surf equipment from short to longboard and everything in between.” Influences: “Any shaper who is passionate about surfing and shaping.” Philosophy: “You’re only as good as your next shape.” Favourite Thing About The Gold Coast: “Family and friends. Surfing the points in the late ‘70s, ‘80s and ‘90s before surfing became mainstream.” Quirky Fact: “I brush my teeth three times a day.”
mtwoodgee.com.au
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BLENDING THE RAILS
JASON RODD
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Label: JR Shaping Since: 1997 Known For: 201 EPS epoxy (carbon stringer technology). Influences: Al Merrick, Maurice Cole, Chris Garrett. Philosophy: “Don’t be bitter … be better.” Favourite Thing About The Gold Coast: “The lifestyle, weather and waves.” Quirky Fact: “I’m a left hander who surfs natural footed and plays golf right handed.”
jrsurfboards.com.au
STUART SMITH
Label: Stuart Surf Designs. Manufacture Xanadu surfboards (under a license) Shaping Since: 1987
Favourite Thing About The Gold Coast: “Access to the surf is unbelievable. You can go anywhere in 15 minutes. You don’t pay to park your car to surf. You can get a solid two hour surf in before work and still make it there by 8.30 a.m.”
Known For: “Good quality, durable, high performance, good all round, custom designs.”
Quirky Fact: “Our factory used to be the Japanese Bath House… the best known brothel on the Gold Coast for many years – the factory still has
Influences: “Terry Fitzgerald, Tony Dempsy and Richard Harvey.”
the ceiling mirrors!”
Philosophy: “Karma: you do the right thing when you’re manufacturing the boards with the materials and they won’t come back and bite you on the arse.”
stuartsurf.com.au
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BLENDING THE RAILS
LEE STACEY
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LAbel: Stacey Surfboards Shaping Since: 2000 Known For: “Listening to metal [music] all day everyday.” Influences: “Anyone doing their own thing.” Philosophy: DIY. Favourite Thing About The Gold Coast: “Ghetto Alley, aka Machinery Drive [dead-end road where a bunch of Gold Coast shapers are based] Quirky Fact: “I once screamed in a metal band.”
staceysurfboards.com
JASON STEVENSON
DARREN SYMES
Label: JS Industries Shaping Since: 1997 Known For: The Tractor Influences: “Joel Parkinson, Luke Egan, Andy Irons come to mind.” Philosophy: “Practice what you preach.” Favourite Thing About The Gold Coast: “How uncrowded the waves are!” Quirky Fact: “I skate natural and surf goofy, and can’t do either the other way.”
jsindustries.com
Label: DS surfboards, Simon Anderson boards (finish shaper) and DHD (finish shaper). Shaping Since: “I started as a 13-year-old ripping up old boards and re-shaping.” Influences: “Simon Anderson, Darren Handley, Bill Tolhurst and Will Ferrell.” Philosophy: “Reddogs rule.” Favourite Thing About The Gold Coast: “Good waves and warm weather.” Quirky Fact: “Cricket is my favourite sport.”
skullclub.net coming soon
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BLENDING THE RAILS
DICK VAN STRAALEN
DAVE VERRALL
Label: Dick Van Straalen Classic Waterman
Label: Diverse/Dynocore Technology Project
Shaping Since: 1956
Shaping Since: 1989
Know for: “Quality, honesty and no bullshit.”
Known For: “Doing things differently and being cynical of the status quo.”
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Influences: “The ocean, nature, every one I have worked with and the magic presence the love of my family.” Philosophy: “Keep it simple. Everything is the way we think it is. Money is cheap, freedom’s expensive.” Favourite Thing About The Gold Coast: “Was the surf.”
Influences: “Gyro Gearloose [comic book character], TEDx [independently organized TED events (ideas worth spreading)] and all the mad scientists I know.” Philosophy: “Good, better, best... never let it rest, then ask, why?” Favourite Thing About The Gold Coast: “Close to everything I need in the world.” Quirky Fact: “I’m trying to change the world one shape at a time.”
dickvanstraalen.com
diversesurf.com.au
PAUL WARD
Label: Wardy Surfboards Shaping Since: “I was 18… a few decades on now!” Known For: High performance shortboards. Influences: “Most of my design influence comes from my competitive time on the Qualify Series [QS] and surfing different locations with different conditions. A lot of factors can influence your boards. I’ve taken all these experiences to now design boards for the waves on the Gold Coast.” Philosophy: “Never blame your shaper if you’re surfing shit.” Favourite Thing About The Gold Coast: “The swells from the south and the cyclones from the north. Definitely not the crowds!” Quirky Fact: “Tell your shaper you’re going overseas and your board will be ready on time.”
wardysurfboards.com
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FUTURE MEN Profiling groms of tomorrow
text Simon Nicholas photography
Duncan Macfarlane
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Kalani Ball
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Y
a typical grom, Kalani Ball has a sun kissed wig, white fangs caged in metal and a twangy drawl which lends itself to words like frothin’. He grew up surfing the fun beachies of Stanwell Park on the south coast of New South Wales. Typical of a surfer hailing from waves which break over sand (such as Stanwell), KB’s surfing is opportunistic – maximising a wave as best as possible. In fact it’s in these unpredictable, sandy-bottomed waves (Coffs Harbour, Sunshine Coast, etc) he has excelled and bagged a couple of shiny gold and silvers. He is one of the young groms selected for Mick Fanning’s Red Bull Future Camp earlier in the year – and the kid lit up. And he ain’t a three-turns-thenpunt kid either, his surfing is varied and exciting, shucking buckets just as much as he takes to the air, and he’ll thread a barrel every chance he gets. In his words his surfing is a mixture of Mick Fanning on the face and Kolohe Andino in the air – and he ain’t too far from the mark. While he’s still young (15) the foundations of flow and linking turns are there, and his real strength lies in a driving bottom turn which allows him to let loose on the lip. While his airs ain’t quite as committed or as high as someone with more weight and confidence, he likes ‘em tweaked and ain’t afraid to grab rail mid-rotation.
When asked how KB wants to develop his surfing. “I don’t want to just do three to the beach,” he says. “I really like to mix it up between fast, smooth turns and airs. If I can get good barrels as well, happy days!” His biggest inspiration is his surf coach, Matt Griggs. “Griggsy’s not just my coach, he’s one of my mates and someone I look up to,” says Kalani. “He’s also someone I can try to live like and someone I can go to when the swell’s up, as he definitely has a dig. Since I started competing we’ve worked on everything from technique, nutrition to everyday wellbeing.” Ask him what he wants to be known for in 10 years and KB’s answer comes quickly, “world champion”. Easy son. It’s a long road to success. Enjoy it while you can.
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FUTURE MEN Profiling groms of tomorrow Kalani Ball
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/ We have a heap of different waves to surf [Stanwell Park]: from beachies to some secret reef breaks… can’t tell you where they are or I’ll get some grommet abuse haha /
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FUTURE MEN Profiling groms of tomorrow Kalani Ball
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/ My school and teachers have been really supportive. At the moment I’ve got a laptop so I can do all my work online… so when I’m away, it’s pretty easy to keep up to date /
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FUTURE MEN Profiling groms of tomorrow Kalani Ball
/ I don’t want to just do three to the beach. I really like to mix it up between fast, smooth turns and airs. If I can get good barrels as well, happy days! /
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FUTURE MEN Profiling groms of tomorrow Kalani Ball
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Photo: Shane dawson
club keramas We investigate the environmental and social impacts of a dreamy resort overlooking one of the world’s dreamiest waves.
interview Andy Morris photography Credited
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LUKE egan getting familar with keramas. Photo: world surfaris
club keramas
A friend and I missioned from Seminyak early in the dry season of ‘06. We fled east, driving to the area we’d been told about and preceeded to motor down every eroded path leading to the ocean. We stumbled across a bunch of setups: rivermouth after rivermouth, beachie after beachie until we found the reef. I was baffled by the amount of waves in the area. Most of them were empty and missing from everyone’s radars. Finally, after leaving at least 10 very inviting spots we’d stumbled across the slice of paradise. There were beachies straight out the front of the carpark, a coupla right reefs down to the right, and the mother of all waves down to the left. You could see it running off in the distance. Fuck. Yes! Unknowingly, we’d timed our run perfectly with the incoming tide. The wave was truly something – and was better than I’d expected. But nothing lasts forever. Year after year more and more people clued on. Word spreads fast in surfing circles. Especially when a ridiculously fun wave is the topic. It was only a matter of time until someone with enough skins saw an opportunity in this area. Lucky for us, someone with a passion for surfing dropped the first plans. Mr Luke Egan. Komune Resort. The development may not be popular with everyone, but at least Luke and the team have built it with the environment and surfers in mind. This way the wave will remain exactly how they found it… fucking awesome. Read on.
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Back in 2006 I heard whispers of a quality wave on the East Coast of Bali. Being a natural footer in the land of lefts, I was keen to investigate. Frothing in fact! Hearing it was a high quality righthand reef, broke in the same spot every time, had a makeable barrel section and was relatively untouched was slightly luring too.
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Photo: Shane dawson
There are many setups on the east coast and we’re already seeing surfers staying with us who are venturing to these other great waves. At the end of the day Keramas will only cater for so many surfers at once and this seems to regulate numbers in the water just like any other break. luke egan
n
Basically our Komune mission statement is to provide surfers, ocean loving travellers and their families with a unique holiday experience in front of A-grade waves. The main concept behind the brand Komune is also to provide communal spaces (such as a beach club) where our guests, the general public and locals can hang out, and connect instead of being holed up in their rooms or villas during their stay like most hotels. We aim to achieve the above whilst ensuring we are environmentally and socially responsible with all our actions at all times. Trying to get an idea of how the resort gives back to the local community: during construction was the material sourced from local businesses? We actually employed a local small builder from Sanur to do the job. He has a core team of local guys from this area instead of one of the big Bali or Java contractors. We used local guys to do all our landscaping and some local specialised trades. What measures are in place to reduce impact on coastal environment? We see we have a huge responsibility to try and preserve the coastal environment and the quality of the wave.
The key to this is to work with the ocean, not against it. Our design hasn’t modified the beach profile or rivermouth course, which we see as important factors in keeping the wave quality high. The resort is designed to allow water to wash over the beach club and into the river behind it a few times per year. We’ve seen it happen several times in the five years we’ve been working on the project. Plus you always have to take into consideration possible tsunami or massive tidal surges during heavy swells. We decided not to build a seawall like they have at Canggu, as this can dramatically alter the beach profile and cause erosion, not to mention ugly bits of wall being washed onto the reef, causing danger to surfers. Our neighbour to the east tried to build a breakwall which has repeatedly failed and has been washed back into the ocean. Our workers have been on standby to collect pieces of the wall before they wash onto the reef and place them on dry ground out of harms way. The other main consideration we have is to ensure all water leaving our site is at drinking quality, so it doesn’t affect the river. To ensure this we’ve fitted bio sewerage systems to all wastewater including grease trap overflows. All water leaving these systems flow into a concrete bunded evaporation garden before leaving site. We want to show the Gianyar Regency [densely populated district in Bali including the town of Ubud] how wastewater can be managed on site successfully for any future development in this area. By leading the way we hope this becomes a design standard for development in this region of Bali, to protect rivers and water ways from leaking septic systems which have polluted much of south Bali.
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Is there a mission statement or something that sums up the resort?
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Photo: world surfaris
The resort is designed to allow water to wash over the beach club and into the river behind it a few times per year. We’ve seen it happen several times in the five years we’ve been working on the project. Plus you always have to take into consideration possible tsunami or massive tidal surges during heavy swells. luke egan
Before we moved too far down the design path we consulted with the ISC [Indonesian Surfing Championship] to discuss the concept and the issues local surfers might have. From the meetings we identified some key areas of concern from the locals: protecting the environment, looking after the warung guys, still providing the same warung experience and food, making sure everyone still can enjoy the surf freely and local competitions still being held at Keramas.
What happened to the beach Warungs and the locals who ran them? When we acquired the land for our project we entered into a partnership agreement with the Keramas village. The whole village basically has become a beneficiary of this project: in the agreement we must pay five percent of all profits our project makes to the village. As part of the agreement the village and we wanted to ensure the long-term interest of the families in the two warungs which existed prior to us coming here. A mutual agreement was made with the village and the warung families whereby we paid them substantial payments so their family’s future was guaranteed. This allowed them to invest in freehold land near the site. Both warung families now own land at Keramas. In addition we guaranteed senior roles for the key guys, Agus Ida and Ngurah in running the new warung we built last year at one end of our beach club and as beach security. We have also guaranteed training and jobs for their families and staff. So far we have sent five of these interested staff to hotel school for two years and they have graduated and are now working with us.
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Was there opposition from local surfers or anyone to building the resort?
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Photo: Shane dawson
club keramas
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The wave was often crowded when we arrived here. On good days you could count around 30 guys in the water when it was four foot and bigger – even then everyone got waves. There are many setups on the east coast and we’re already seeing surfers staying with us who are venturing to these other great waves. At the end of the day Keramas will only cater for so many surfers at once and this seems to regulate numbers in the water just like any other break. We are also working with locals from Sanur and World Surfaris to provide fast boats from Keramas for our guests to other east coast breaks, Nusa Lembongan and Deserts when it’s on. What about nightsurfing? If it were going to be a permanent fixture in the sport, Keramas would be a good spot, plus it may reduce surf rage? Well Keramas is a unique wave with viewers being so close to the action. When we started working on our approvals with the Gianyar Regency we discussed the possibility about creating a night surfing event when the waves and tides permit showcasing the best local surfing to tourists coming to Bali. The Regent and Keramas village love the idea and are behind our night surfing concept which we hope will give the young, and up-andcoming surfers the opportunity to regularly show their talent to a broad audience.
We hope to hold a regular webcast expression session several days each month at night with a point scoring system, sponsorship and prize money for some of the talented local surfers. We are working with some of Bali’s senior surfers putting this together. What about sustainability. Do you use solar panels/water tanks/recycled water or anything to reduce your carbon footprint? The design of our villa buildings at Komune started with the concept of a solar array. You will see this model in stage one at our reception building we have just completed. We hope to produce all daily power from these solar panels. We have also created an organic farm right in the middle of our resort growing 30 different fruits, herbs and vegetables, and we grow rice on undeveloped land we own. This helps our carbon footprint and provides a unique taste when fresh ingredients are used in our beach club meals. All roof water is collected in above ground tanks at the rear of our site and used to supplement our water supply.
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The takeoff zone is pretty small at Keramas – especially for the barrel up the line. Can the resort be responsible for overcrowding the wave at Keramas and are there any measures in place to overcome intense crowds?
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We have also created an organic farm right in the middle of our resort growing 30 different fruits, herbs and vegetables, and we grow rice on undeveloped land we own. This helps our carbon footprint and provides a unique taste when fresh ingredients are used in our beach club meals.
Our design hasn’t modified the beach profile or rivermouth course, which we see as important factors in keeping the wave quality high. luke egan
club keramas
opinions Tai ‘Buddha’ Graham (Gold Coast born, Bali living, blood tinted mop, top-notch surfer/ commentator)
“How things have changed! For me I don’t mind the Komune set up at all. You’re always going to get grief when you’re the first at something, in this case it may have been taken a little sour by some of the boys as Keramas has always been the kind of last paradise. You surf on the beach and there’s not really the big hotel, villa set up like the beaches and Bukit area. But what Luke and the boys have done seems to have blended in fairly well. Local people are benefiting – there are heaps of jobs. Bali’s on fire at the
moment. There are plenty of other spots to satisfy surfers – to the east and west. Just need to take a drive and be friendly with the local surfers, because they don’t particularly like sharing waves in this area. “You know, when you’re used to seeing an unspoillt piece of paradise you always get worried as to what’s around the corner. But for me personally the wave’s still mean, it’s still one of the most perfect and most ripple waves on the planet. So all good. “As far as impact on the locals? Nah that’s sweet azz. All the boys still and will always get waves out there. Just means after a solid little session we can come in and sooth by the pool and sip on some complimentary piña coladas… ay Lui?”
Dede Suryana (Indonesia’s hardest working pro surfer) “I think for development it’s good. More people will stay and of course they will spend money and it’s good for local people. But, I don’t like the good spot becoming crowded… and whoever stays at Keramas, never think, that if you surf Keramas you’re local or say, ‘I live here’. “How’s the resort impacted my surfing experience? I remember one dude. I’ve never see him before. He thought he was a local because he was staying there. He paddled around me and was trying to take any wave he wanted. I said to him, ‘hey, who do you think you are?’
“I hope no more people like this come along who think they can buy land or property there and try to take over Keramas to become their private beach. To them I say, ‘go home and back to your country bro.’ Keramas is a place for surfing and to have fun. Respect the locals, keep it natural, green and peaceful.”
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“Back in the day there was a rule in Bali you couldn’t build higher than a coconut tree!
MUSIC INK
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reviews by jake 'Yaki' newell
01 Easy Lad
02 Crimes and Pastimes
03 Vesuvius
04 Wrecking Ball
LOOK OUT
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05 Disconnection
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Apparently they’ve grown up. Starting as four Sydney based ratbags with a mean, garagey sound, The Upskirts is now four Sydney based ratbags with a mean age of twenty. I’m quite sure the lads themselves haven’t grown up too much, but the sound they emit has matured and settled nicely, if only slightly. Easy Lad is a jaded post-punk gem which nods to the genre’s gritty English origins, and with it’s sandpaper-dry lyrics, drunken guitars and dynamic mood swings, it’d be right at home soundtracking a scene from a Guy Ritchie film. Crimes and Pastimes could be mid-career Arctic Monkeys, and Vesuvius is a ‘90s Aussie surf-rock classic that never went out of style. Wrecking Ball is straight up, brash, angular and fuzzedout post-punk with a delicious Gang Of Four-ish slant, and the EP’s title track Disconnection is a wonderfully paradoxical melting-pot, and the sum of every one of the afore-mentioned parts.
As is rarely the case with EP’s, flicking channels and skipping tracks won’t do you any favours with Disconnection. Though each track is more than engaging enough to stand alone, this release plays out more like an album - a short but very good one - so press play, keep your knickers on, and enjoy.
Check out The Upskirts: •T hursday October 25 @ Annandale Hotel, NSW w/ Cabins •S aturday October 27 @ FBI Social, NSW – FBi Radio Halloween Party •F riday November 30 @ The Loft, QLD – EP Tour
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reviews by jake 'Yaki' newell
01 From The Underground
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Willow Beats is a Melbourne electronic duo made up of Narayana Johnson (beats, synths and production) and Kalyani Ellis (lyrics, vocals and keys). Though they cite such metaphysical influences as: lush rivers, crisp mornings and JRR Tolkien, what you’ll hear is dubby, glitchy, catchy-as-herpes electro. From The Underground is hypnotising and beautifully produced. It drips and throbs and attaches itself to your subconscious – It’s not every day you hear production as complex and intricate as this, pulled off so flawlessly - which is probably why it earned Willow Beats a spot in the ‘Reserved For Artists’ carpark at the Melbourne leg of the Parklife Festival tour. Keep your wub-wub loving eyes peeled for Willow Beats on the road NOW and a new EP pencilled for release in early 2013.
A gang involved in crimes such as running guns down to the beach when it's ten- foot- plus and illegal carry- on luggage weights:
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the 18seconds POSSE andy morris founder & editor
Alicia Smith
Art Director & interactive mag design
andy@18seconds.com.au alicia@18seconds.com.au
Contributors Ted Grambeau Brad masters CHRIS BURKARD Damea Dorsey Duncan MacFarlane Simon Muirhead Sean Davey Billy Morris Shane Dawson jason corroto matt dunbar ANGELA LICCIARDI - GRAPHIC DESIGNER jake 'yaki' newell - music INK reyner horat - threadlesS Dwayne Fetch - Video Darcy Ward - video asher wales - worky kid james driscoll - grammar police
18seconds is self-published six times a year in Currumbin, Australia: PO Box 86, Tugun, QLD 4224. Views expressed by authors aren’t necessarily those of the publisher and editor. Copyright is reserved, so please don’t reproduce our pages for anything. Email addresses are published for professional communication and love letters only.
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