18SECONDS MAG | ISSUE NO. 18 by 18seconds Magazine

for surfers SEP/OCT 2013

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13 17 19 EDITOR’S NOTE

The biggest dick-tease: the Kirra revival

ALLAN BYRNE TRIBUTE The passing of a master craftsman

A TASTE OF THINGS TO COME

Soli Bailey opens his state of mind and shares the outlook on his surfing future

35 49 61 THE BALI FILES

the big wave world tour

music ink

113

single lens reflux

busting the wintery blues

future men

Eye candy from the right side of the island

Cover Grant ‘Twiggy’ Baker tackling the ocean off southern Australia. Photo: Russell Ord

Jim Culley’s multimedia portfolio on New Zealand

Army Of Champions

Multi-time XXL winner Grant ‘Twiggy’ Baker talks wave heights, tracking swells, making calls, blundered events and more

10 steps to brightening your dreary day

Monty Tait: born and raised in the heavy waves of Maroubra!

18s e c o n ds

andy morris editor

andy@18seconds.com.au

alicia smith designer

alicia@18seconds.com.au

contributors

18seconds is self-published six times a year in Currumbin, Australia: PO Box 86, Tugun, QLD 4224. Views expressed by authors aren’t necessarily those of the publisher and editor. Copyright is reserved, so please don’t reproduce our pages for anything. Email addresses are published for professional communication and love letters only.

ted grambeau chris burkard duncan macfarlane ed sloane blake ormerod billy morris shane dawson jason corroto matt dunbar angela licciardi – designer jake 'yaki' newell – music ink dwayne fetch – video darcy ward – video james driscoll – grammar police

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a gang involved in crimes such as running guns down to the beach when it's tenfoot-plus and illegal carryon luggage weights:

e dit o r ’ s note

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the biggest dick-tease: the kirra revival The play button above is part of an interesting conversation I had with Wayne Deane about 12-months ago, before the approval and subsequent approvalblunder of the Kirra groyne extension.

You’ll lose nine minutes of your life listening to the file, but you’ll finish a wiser man or woman.

For those that haven’t heard, work to restore the groyne to its former length (30-metres longer) began in July Whilst listening to Wayne, I wondered why he’d been much to the joy of the local community, the stoke of campaigning for over 12-years for the works to surfers and the relief of Wayne and Co after many commence. years of lobbying. But as quickly as it started, work stopped pending further approvals. The Gold Coast Y’see, Wayne grew up in Coolangatta and spent the City Council (GCCC) had the green light, believing all better half of his life in the water at Kirra. He’s seen regulatory requirements had been met. Then the State it pre breakwalls, pre sand dredging. Damn, he even Government, more specifically, the Department of remembers all too well Duranbah beach before Environment and Heritage Protection (EHP) came down its own groyne extensions… comparing it to Pipe/ on them mouthing, settle down, settle down… you don’t Backdoor and Off The Wall in Hawaii. What he lacks in have the necessary approvals. formal qualifications, he makes up in life experience. He might not have an engineering degree, but he’s a Give a dog a bone. Let him froth and dribble. Then take it surfer, shaper and environmentalist. He contributed out of his mouth. What a tease. to the short-board revolution and in ‘03 was inducted We contacted the EHP twice. No one could talk, but into the Australian Surfing Hall of Fame. He has they did provide a statement. The most interesting part authority, he has street cred and when he speaks of the statement read: the current due date for the about Kirra, boy, you listen. department to provide a response to council regarding When you press play, you’ll hear him talk about Kirra’s the tidal works is 27 August. evolution into one of the best point breaks in the This gives GCCC roughly four months to complete works world. He touches on why 30-metres of rocks were before the cyclone season sets in. Then, after controversially taken off the groyne in the first place a hard day in the air-conditioned office, we’ll step and how it affected wave quality. Why would anyone out into the humidity and make our way down to the want to do this? Note the hesitation in his voice here point with a beer in hand. And we’ll wait ‘n’ watch, (something’s not right – we pressed for more, but he for flickers of the ‘real’ Kirra to appear. wouldn’t talk). He speaks of how restoring 30-metres to the groyne will affect wave quality. AM

construction work commencing on the kirra groyne, days before it was put on hold. PHOTO: AM

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PASSING OF A MASTER CRAFTSMAN

allan byrne 18SECONDS MAGAZINE

1950-2013 REST IN PEACE

“The exceptional speed of my boards produced a long spray of wash that looked like flames coming from under the surfboard and gave the impression of the board burning, consequently the name ‘Byrning Spears’.” -- Allan Byrne --

“I was here [Bali] when it happened. So close, but feeling so helpless. I want whoever cares to and love I had for the guy, in my own way, even though not much time was spent together. He was indirectly my mentor, an inspiration in and out of the water since 1977 for me, when I arrived on the Goldy to see his beautiful Hot Stuffs. This is not about me, but if there is a man, a surfer, a shaper on this planet who deserves utmost, unreserved respect for his contribution to life, our lives, then there is no doubt, it’s AB. The only thing I didn't care for with AB, was his tendency to fade me at Burleigh absolutely every time we shared our, "home" together. He knew he could do a better job than me on the iconic wave. You deserved every one AL! I am proud to have been faded by Allan Byrne. His memory will never fade though all over this planet and specifically Japan, Hawaii, Bali, Australia, and his true home New Zealand where he left indelible mark on waves with his super smooth style. And his, "SWEET AS BRU!" boards that always blew me away. Love you AB… sympathies and love to Jane PHOTO: mick curley

and the boys.

-- Nev Hyman --

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know how much respect

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A TASTE OF THINGS TO COME Soli Bailey opens his state of mind and shares the outlook on his surfing future. Photography

Credited Video

Kaius Potter

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PHOTO: AM

PHOTO: blake ormerod

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A TASTE OF THINGS TO COME

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“I’m definitely not in the state of mind in my career to make the WCT [Soli also needs to gather enough points on the WQS first], but I talk about it regularly with my manager and Dad, and hopefully in a few years I’ll be ready to do it. “For the next two years, I’m really focusing on building a name and profile more so than doing heaps of contests. And at the same time taking my surfing to a level, where, if I do make the CT, I don’t get my arse completely kicked! “I think contest surfing is essential, but at the same time I think it’s really important to build a profile - I don’t want to be tagged as a contest surfer only. I want to try to combine them both, because that’s where I think surfing is going.”

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PHOTO: AM

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A TASTE OF THINGS TO COME

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PHOTO: AM

“I’d like to see Angst [youth site Kaius Potter (filmer) and Soli recently launched to show their point of view on surfing] grow in to something big.

“I don’t spend much time on the net. I’d look at one blog a week and that could be for 10-minutes. I look at other things usually. Stuff that has nothing to do with surfing. Like art! I’m not a big Internet person. I’d rather go surfing or do something more creative. I’m useless with emails too!”

A TASTE OF THINGS TO COME

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“I like a lot of blogs the CT guys are doing but there’s not one that really stands out. If I had to choose, it would be Wilko’s, because it’s a bit more care-free and loose, which is what I like – I don’t like when people try to portray an image they're not. I’m not saying people are, but that’s where Kaius and I want to take Angst. The image we are portraying is what we want to put up there. If people like it or not, that’s what we’re doing… just being ourselves.

PHOTO: blake ormerod

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“Taj [Burrow] is probably a surfer I take after. I really like Julian Wilson’s style. Jordy Smith too. A small part of Parko. My favourite style I’ve loved since a kid is Andy [Irons]. I mean, everyone would say Andy, I know it’s a bit of a cliché, but I really enjoyed watching him surf and how carefree he was on a wave, just going wherever he wants in big and small surf.

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“If I had a mortgage and was trying to pay it off, I’d do that [with WCT winnings]. Or invest in a house. I wouldn’t be too silly with it. I’d invest with the idea of making more money from it. There’s great money in surfing, but there’s a lot of pro surfers who have retired and are now working. Once my career finishes I want to be retired. I want to spend time with my family. If it happens I’ll be using my winnings wisely.”

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“I’ve always said, if you make the WCT, you’d want to be in the top five or why be on it? There are so many cool opportunities and stuff in the surf industry, like freesurfing. It’s cool to be on the CT, but you’re only there because you want to win a world title. That’s my point of view – I mean, it’s a dream to travel and surf amazing waves… but yeah, that’s your goal isn’t it?

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PHOTO: AM

A TASTE OF THINGS TO COME

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“I think they [surf comps in wave pools] are going to give everyone more of an opportunity and will make competition fairer. The one thing I don’t like about contest surfing at the moment is you can be judged, but yet you don’t all have the same opportunity. So the wave pool will bring more even opportunity and you’ll be judged on how good a surfer you are, rather than how lucky you are on the day.”

PHOTO: blake ormerod

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A TASTE OF THINGS TO COME

“I don’t think anyone could say they are safe [with their sponsor] at this point in time. In saying that, they [Billabong] are still growing as a company and they’ve shown love to their surfers and it’s such a big company, I don’t think it’s going to vanish off the face of the earth. Right now, I’m really comfortable with Billabong. I’ve been with them for a few years and I’ve got about a year left on my contract. It’ll be up for renewal next year… we’ll see what happens and where it goes.”

PHOTO: blake ormerod

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A TASTE OF THINGS TO COME

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the bali files Eye candy from the right side of the island.

Photography

Ed Sloane

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Filipe Toledo 35

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the bali files

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Sebastian ‘Seabass’ Zietz

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Josh Kerr 18SECONDS MAGAZINE

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Adriano De Souza 18SECONDS MAGAZINE

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John John 18SECONDS MAGAZINE

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Yadin Nicol 18SECONDS MAGAZINE

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Interview Andy Morris Photography

Credited

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the big wave world tour Multi-time XXL winner Grant ‘Twiggy’ Baker talks wave heights, tracking swells, making calls, blundered events, WCT guys, angry guys, sponsorship, big wave street cred and more, after the recently acquired Big Wave World Tour.

PHOTO: Nic Bothma

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the big wave world tour

Briefly explain what the BWWT is? It's the Big Wave World Tour. It's been a loosely tied together thing for a few years now, with only a couple of events running each year. The ASP have recently taken ownership of the BWWT - is there a clear, new format to the tour? It's much clearer and more appealing now the ASP has taken over and added some much needed infrastructure and prize money [Xpreshon - the new home of action sports entertainment, is the 20132014 naming rights sponsor]. There have been a few events added this year. How long is the window for each event? It depends, but normally three-to-six months. Peru is only two months this year, but the Jaws event will run from October 1 to March 31, 2014. What are the height requirements to run an event? 15-foot minimum. 30-foot maximum. What about testicle size? Big! Haha… will there be jetski assist or is the BWWT only paddle-ins? Yes, strictly paddle. Considering the real dangers, will vests be compulsory? I don't believe they’ll be compulsory, but it’ll be up to each athlete to decide on wether the day warrants using one. Personally, I have lost a few friends in recent years and I use some sort of flotation as soon as the waves hit the 12-to-15 foot mark.

It’ll never be an exact science, but every spot on the tour will get the day of the year, where it's obviously going to be the swell to call it on. So as long as everything’s in place and ready to go, there’ll be a day to run each event. Flights aren’t cheap when you’re booking last minute – do most guys have solid backings from brands or are a lot funding it themselves? It’s expensive and it helps to have a sponsor, but quite a few of the guys don't have funding and the hike in prize money will really help us going forward. Our dream has always been to take big wave surfing to the next level, so the young guys coming up will reap the rewards with regards to sponsorship and prize money… the new BWWT is a big step forward in this regard.

Has losing Billabong’s financial support hindered your plan for next year when the tour officially kicks off? Not at all. I'm more focused and determined to do well now so they have actually helped in getting my arse in to gear. One decent contest result will earn me as much money as I was making from Billabong anyway. Have you got any new major sponsors in sight? Not as yet. My plan is to go six months without a sponsor and see what happens with the events and the season up north, and then make some major life decisions. Recently Chile was called a couple of days out. Everyone converged, but it didn’t meet height requirements – prize money was split. Was this acceptable with the surfers? Did the money cover their expenses? The Chile call was also made early (four days) and I'm not too sure of the circumstances behind that one, as I wasn't invited to the event because I missed the last contest. Honestly, when I saw the swell I thought for sure it would be pumping, but the storm downgraded heavily right after they made the call and by then it was too late to call off. Each surfer received $2000 US, so most of their expenses would have been covered, which was very nice of the organisers.

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Despite forecasting tools these days, it’s still challenging to make a call even three-to-four days out. How will event organisers tackle this? They only have to make the call 48-hours before and generally the charts don't change much within the last 48. For some reason the last few events have been called too early (four days), which is even before the actual storm has developed and things can change drastically in this time, and that's what we’ve seen happening for a few events.

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The last event at Mavericks ran, but looked embarrassingly small for a legit big wave event. How much pull do the riders have when it comes to the calls? The Mavericks call was a tough one. The call was made too early and as the swell passed Hawaii everyone knew it wasn't going to be that big, but we were hopeful there would be some 20-foot waves. The call was made for a few other reasons not related to the surfing, like the weather and the weekend crowd. I'm sure this won't happen again – we’ve learnt from our lessons. What happens with hard-charging maniacs on potentially the best day of the year at their local, who can’t surf because of the event? This is a contentious issue and it’s the main reason why the Dungeons [notorious big wave spot in South Africa] event hasn't come back. Personally I think there are so many big waves out there still to be discovered. For someone who isn't in the event, it’s a great day to get out there. Check Google Earth and find something new, rather than focusing on the negative and not allowing the best surfers at each particular spot, to test their mettle against the best in the world. Does big wave surfing have wider appeal and more street cred than WCT aerial antics? Another interesting question and I guess we’ll know more after the next six months, once we see the numbers on the webcasts. I love watching the WCT and so do millions of other surfers out there and this will never change, but I do feel the broader public could very well hook into the big wave thing.

WCT surfers will be able to compete on the BWWT. Who do you think will take it on? The CT guys are such amazing surfers – any of them could easily step-up and do well on the big wave scene. From what I’ve seen over the last few years, it's Kelly – Fiji was just next level. John John – he’s been charging big waves around the world already. The Hobgoods – always pushing the limits in big barrels. Kieran Perrow has always impressed me. Then there are all the Hawaiians who grew up surfing big waves their whole life anyway. Let’s say WCT and BWWT events clash. Who takes priority? Who gets longer prime time news coverage? Haha…I have no idea. That's for the organisers to figure out. What are some of the things most people don’t know about big waves? It takes dedication to stay fit and healthy for the whole year. You have to be mentally and physically ready at any given moment, to head out and surf a big day. How important are big wave boards when you’re stroking in and dropping down 30-foot faces? Equipment and your confidence in your board is everything. Without the right board under your feet, you’ll never perform at your best. What kind of boards and equipment do you have? I have my own Twig Model surfboard I ride and have developed over the past 10-to-15 years working with some of the best shapers in the world. At the moment I ride Jeff Bushmans in Hawaii, Spider Murphy in South Africa and Wayne Webster [Ballina, Australia]

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sends me boards around the world. I take boards from these three shapers and show them to each other and they’re continuously updating and improving the specs. I honestly feel I have the best boards in the water right now for when the waves are firing. Check them out! www. twigsurfboards.com.

The Mavericks call was a tough one. The call was made too early and as the swell passed Hawaii everyone knew it wasn't going to be that big, but we were hopeful there would be some 20-foot waves. The call was made for a few other reasons not related to the surfing, like the weather and the weekend crowd. I'm sure this won't happen again – we’ve learnt from our lessons.

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They [Event Organisers] only have to make the call 48-hours before and generally the charts don't change much within the last 48. For some reason the last few events have been called too early (four days), which is even before the actual storm has developed and things can change drastically in this time and that's what weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve seen happening for a few events.

PHOTO: Nic Bothma

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PHOTO: russell ord

I love watching the WCT and so do millions of other surfers out there and this will never change, but I do feel the broader public could very well hook into the big wave thing.

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From what I’ve seen over the last few years, it's Kelly – Fiji was just next level. John John – he’s been charging big waves around the world already. The Hobgoods – always pushing the limits in big barrels. Kieran Perrow has always impressed me. Then there’s all the Hawaiians who grew up surfing big waves their whole life anyway.

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PHOTO: Nic Bothma

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MU S I C I NK

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reviews by jake 'Yaki' newell

01 Burning Alive

02 Anything At All

03 Fires

04 These Wings

LOOK OUT

s FOR SOUND on bonu this spread

05 Shining Through

burning alive ep army of champions 18SECONDS MAGAZINE

Theirs is the kind of story that Music Ink loves: after two previous releases on a label, Army Of Champions has opted for the hard slog of completely self-funding their third release. Kudos must be paid to any artist whose chosen artistic freedom and control, over guaranteed exposure and label backed publicity. Luckily, and rightfully, their gamble seems to be paying off and their five track EP, Burning Alive, has garnered praising prose aplenty. Army Of Champions is a staunch and stocky, hardrunning quadricep out of Brisbane. The four piece names a quality collection of modern and classic rockers as inspiration – ones like The Decendents, Against Me!, Springsteen and The Clash are certainly audible – but stylistically, AOC conveys a far more buoyant, danceable, and almost pop catchiness, than isn’t common for such a gritty and ballsy band. EP opener, and title track, Burning Alive, is a relentlessly hooky foot stomper, with ‘50s rock sensibilities, woven tightly into a gasoline guzzling, modern garage rock tune purpose-built for the moshpit. Anything At All is the power chord driven pop-punk gem that Blink 182 would have release in their hay-day, had they ever gone through

puberty. Easing off the accelerator ever so slightly is Fires, which even features a delicious feathering of harmonica during the late breakdown. With it’s chorus of ‘Now I’m better than I’ve ever felt/it’s like these hands around my throat just let go/And I’m stronger than I ever was before/ Like I’ve got these wings, and I got you, and you know”, These Wings is a song of realisation and discovering a new and purposeful direction. Then Shining Through reconfirms that all is well, with it’s more relaxed lead guitar strums and affirming, anthemic chorus “This is the rest of my light shining through”. Fans of The Vaccines, Gaslight Anthem, The Angels and the like, will love Army Of Champions. Fans of raw, raucous and radio destined rock with love Burning Alive. Both will wish this was an album and not just an EP. Army Of Champions is just finishing a national tour (NSW readers can still catch the last dates) and are currently enjoying a whirl on the National Youth Broadcast and their digital ‘unearthed’ station. You can buy the Burning Alive EP (and the band’s previous releases) at www.armyofchampions.net or follow their day-to-day stupidity at www.facebook. com/armyofchampions

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Single Lens Reflux Bringing up the lives of FROTHING lensmen JIM CULLEY

text Andy Morris

J I M A GE S . C O . N Z

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Jim Culley, Jimages, Jimmy or Mr C as he’s affectionately know depending on the role he’s playing at the time, is a surf photographer and school teacher based on New Zealand’s north island. More precisely, he’s based in a town called Hihi, pronounced hehe (not the shortened version of hello twice). If you’ve ever surfed the top end of the north island, you’ll know the variety of coastlines to choose from. One minute, you can be hauling through west coast power, next minute, pulling-in to pulsing beachbreaks on the east coast care of the South Pacific Ocean. And then there’s the charming north coast... For Mr C, a career in surf photography alone is not financially viable in New Zealand (Kiwisurf - a major printed surf publication recently shut down), hence the stable job teaching school kids. This leaves before and after school to focus on his second job, which for his photography is a golden hour blessing. And for a guy who says surfing is the foundation on which he bases most of his life decisions: it’s either raging fire or glowing embers at any one time, these selected lineups from his area give you an idea of just how lucky Mr C is. Come along. Be sure to hit the play button on each shot for priceless info about these dreamy waves.

E A R LY D A Y S I was working a comfortable job in Melbourne a few years back and the daily routine was devoid of any creativity or self-expression. Weekend surfs were lacklustre as a result of my ‘office fitness’, so I sought change. One afternoon I was flicking through a surf mag and decided the opportunity to get those creative juices flowing was staring back at me. So I guess I became a photographer out of sheer ignorance. I had no idea what I was getting myself into, but the fact that it’s so bloody challenging caused me to swallow the hook. I love how hard it is to get a great shot and I hate that no one shot can be objectively perfect. Art at its finest.

SCHOOL TEACHING I completed a postgraduate primary school teaching qualification last year and started my first full-time teaching gig a few months back. I teach the full New Zealand curriculum at senior primary level (8-10 year-olds) and I thrive on it. Teaching’s great if you’re organised and work smart. You can generally be out of school by 3.30pm and off to the beach. If you don’t manage your time well, it can be more like running through a muddy paddock in jandals [Kiwi version of thongs]. I’m on holiday right now (two weeks) and a seven-week paid holiday over summer is nothing to moan about. It’s also a great feeling to see the impact you can have on someone’s learning and ability to learn. When one of my students understands a foreign concept for the first time the look of self-satisfaction on their face is priceless. That moment where you succeed at something and feel like the world truly is your oyster. There is a lot we can learn

Regarding income, fickle doesn’t even begin to describe it. Here in NZ, it’s practically impossible to make a profit from surf photography. Any money I’ve made has gone back into fuel or equipment. Last year while I was studying I managed to get away on two mag trips and paid all my own expenses. At the end of the day I was able to buy a new lens, but I can’t imagine trying to live off surf photography alone. I’d be sleeping in my board bag under a bridge for sure. For me it’s about expressing myself through a range of mediums – photography just happens to be the most expensive one. It’s about goal setting, staying motivated and hunting new experiences: photography is brilliant in that respect – you can’t place a monetary value on a quality of life that fits your mould.

SHOOTING ON THE NORTH ISLAND It depends on where you live. I’ve lived in most areas of the island and where I am now is by far the best (and warmest). I’m on the east coast with the west coast forty minutes away and the north coast one-and-a-half hours away. If there’s swell it’s always offshore somewhere. It’s generally pretty rare that one of the coasts doesn’t have a wave. It also makes chasing the golden light a little easier.

PUBLISHED WORKS New Zealand Surfing Magazine, KSM (formally Kiwisurf Magazine and now non-existent magazine), Adventure Magazine (NZ), New Zealand Snowboarder, The South Seas – New Zealand’s Best Surf (hard copy publication 2012), Magic Seaweed, surf.co.nz and Swellnet.

SHOOTING AROUND THE LACK OF HIGH PROFILE SURFERS (like t h e top 3 4 W C T g u y s ) The NZ mags only run Kiwi surfers due to the lack of high profile guys over here. I guess that’s where the international mags make coin in NZ. Every surfer wants to see what kind of ridiculous manoeuvre Dane, Medina and Ando are currently stomping. There’s literally just the local talent on offer here and even those guys are quite hard to come by where I am currently located. In saying that, a kiwi surfer will break the WCT soon. Financial backing is hard to come by (not unlike the shooting side of things), but good old kiwi ingenuity has seen websites like ‘crowdfunder’ get rippers like Richard Christie chasing the dream again.

S W E LL C O N S I S T E N C Y I N N E W ZEALAND AND BEST TIME OF THE YEAR FOR EACH COAST Tropical cyclones during the summer months see the north-east coast light up with long period groundswells and offshore winds. It’s a double-edged sword though as these months can also bring incredibly long flat spells and the tropos don’t always come to the party. If you’re on the west coast you’re generally more concerned with the wind. Once again summer usually provides calmer conditions and offshore days. In saying all this, both coasts receive fun waves year round – you just need to know where to look.

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from the way children view the world. Greed and ego can turn potentially great ideas sour in next to no time. It’s just unfortunate these traits can often be attributed to those in the position to change the world.

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Single Lens Reflux

bonus LOOK OUT FOR SOUND on this spread

Planned. I thrive off challenges and working to a deadline usually produces my best work. Also, the planned shoots are the ones where I’m shooting the guys that rip, and generally speaking (sometimes very generally) these guys know what is involved in trying to get the shot. It also stops me from putting the camera down and surfing when I have my ‘professional’ hat on.

BEST WORK HAPPENs When the crew I’m shooting don’t go left when I’m shooting rights from the water! You’d be surprised how many times guys I’ve been shooting have swung and taken a wave off towards the other end of the beach and then a gem has popped up behind it and spat in my face with no one on it. So I guess my best work happens when I’m shooting point breaks. Shooting water most of the time means there are a huge number of variables that all have to come together to get the shot. Being in the right place at the right time and being in tune with your equipment is the only thing that is really going to work.

WH A T 's S O M E O F T H E M O R E G N A R LY S tuff T H A T ' S H A P P E N E D WH E N S H O O T I N G WATER Last year I had a crack at swimming an open beach when it was perhaps a little too big for it and got pulled into a swirling rip and almost drowned. I’m pretty swim-fit, but the current that day was intense and with no channels I was pretty lucky to get back in after 30-minutes copping drainers on the head. I learnt a valuable lesson and realised my judgement was clouded by my insatiable desire to get the shot. There’s a bit of that in this game, but I was being pretty ignorant that day. Add a ski to the mix and it would have been sweet.

P O S T P H O T O M A N I P UL A T I O N Depends what you’re doing. Images come out of digital cameras as Raw files so you have to add some life to them, otherwise they look flat and dull. You won’t find a pro photographer or photo editor who doesn’t bring images to life: it’s in their job description. I saw an image on a surf site in NZ the other week and the photographer had used the spot removal tool to make a breaking wave look like it wasn’t a closeout. It was blatantly obvious and made me want to tear out my hair. I couldn’t believe the site put it up. Everything in moderation is what I tell my students – but it’s easy to get carried away at times.

INSIDE YOUR PELICAN Canon 7D, 500mm F/4 IS, 70-200mm F/2.8, 24-105mm F/4 IS, 15mm F/2.8, 8mm F/3.5, waterhousing for 7D, monopod and Holga.

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PLANNED OR UNPLANNED SHOOTS

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Single Lens Reflux

bonus LOOK OUT FOR SOUND on this spread

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bonus LOOK OUT FOR SOUND on this spread

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bonus LOOK OUT FOR SOUND on this spread

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bonus LOOK OUT FOR SOUND on this spread

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bonus LOOK OUT FOR SOUND on this spread

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bonus LOOK OUT FOR SOUND on this spread

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bonus LOOK OUT FOR SOUND on this spread

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bonus LOOK OUT FOR SOUND on this spread

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bonus LOOK OUT FOR SOUND on this spread

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bonus LOOK OUT FOR SOUND on this spread

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photo: am

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BUSTING THE WINTERY BLUES 10 steps to brightening your dreary day.

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Photography

Credited

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Expose yourself to sunlight as early in the morning as you can. Wake up and lift the curtains. Surfer: Jay Phillips location: Kirra Photo: Azad Sellars

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busting the wintery blues

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Dress for the cold. Wear rubber, if that's your thing. Surfer: Quinn Bruce LOcation: South Straddie Photo: Brodie McCabe

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busting the wintery blues

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busting the wintery blues Have your bedroom lights turn on halfan-hour before you're supposed to wake up. LOcation: Sunshine Coast Photo: Jack Dekort

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Spend some time in a tunnel. When you come out your serotonin levels will be higher. Surfer: Harry Bryant location: Sunshine Coast Photo: Jack Dekort

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Place a GoPro in your mouth for a different point of view. Surfer: Tim McDonald location: South Straddie Photo: Shayne Nienaber

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Exercise regularly along A point. Surfer: Sebastian Raubenheimer Location: Noosa Photo: Alex Benaud

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busting the wintery blues Pump yourself full of Vitamin D every day. location: Sunshine Coast Photo: Jack Dekort

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Wear webbed gloves for extra warmth. Surfer: Josh Glennon Web-guy: Unknown location: Kirra Photo: Azad Sellars

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Change your mood with the spectrum of light. location: Greenmount Photo: Mike Egan

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Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t hibernate. Socialise with friends in the lineup. LOCATION: Sunshine Coast Photo: Alex Benaud

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future men Profiling groms of tomorrow

monty tait Photography

Harrison Dancaster (unless credited)

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Born and raised in the heav y waves of Maroubra , Sydney, Monty Tait is fast becoming one to watch in Australia’s deep pool of emerging surfing talent. With just eight years of surfing under his feet, the 16-year-old already has a list of respectable event wins and placings. While everyone we spoke to says he’s good (including a bunch of groms many k’s north on the Gold Coast), Monty is discovering firsthand the effects of a financially troubled surf industry. The kid’s still hunting a major backer. Righ t now, it doesn’ t faze him, put ting all his energy into school and surfing. But, when someone comes to the party, and we say when because it ’s more a mat ter of time than if, Monty’s going to be a name you’ll hear blaring through your webcast.

_ How hard is the sponsor thing when you’re juggling school?

At the moment, I don’t have a major sponsor, so it’s not really an issue, but it’s been hard juggling school with surfing. I have only missed out on a few weeks of school, but even then it’s a struggle to catch up to where the rest of the year is. I always try to get the highest marks I can. When I’m at school, I try to concentrate and focus on what I need to do for my teachers and grades. At the moment the guys sponsoring me are: Brett Warner surfboards, Matt Griggs Coaching, Liive Eyewear and Farking Unlimited surf accessories.

_ What about Maroubra, do you think it’s overlooked as an area for new talent emerging?

Not really. I think it’s getting noticed. There are so many good surfers from Maroubra at the moment. The young kids surf all the time and are improving fast. It’s sick to see they’re totally stoked on surfing with their mates and having fun. Also, the guys and girls around my age have a lot of talent and are highly ranked in most comps. People like Jackson Giles (16-years-old) and Max McGuigan (13-years-old) are standouts for their age groups.

My best placing this year would definitely be winning the under 18 New South Wales Junior Surfing Titles at Maroubra in July. Then an equal third in the Under 16 Occy’s Grom Comp in June and equal 5th at the Australian Under 16 Surfing Titles last year in Tasmania. _ Describe your surfing?

It’s hard to describe your own surfing. At the moment I’m known for my power, but in this day and age, you need the whole bag of tricks. _ Have you made any inroads into finding a major sponsor?

At the moment I haven’t had any luck with sponsors. I don’t mind though, I am just so happy being able to surf, train and compete. Don’t get me wrong, a sponsor would help massively, but I guess it will all work out soon enough.

_ How does it affect your confidence?

I used to feel less confident, but now I think it makes me hungrier. At the moment, I really want to prove to myself, I can be at the top. _ It’s generally easier to pick up a major sponsor from good results, but these days there’s more involved?

I think now it’s about results and who’s marketable. If someone is consistent in competitions and has a solid fan base on social networks such as Facebook and Instagram, it shows they not only can surf, but they are approachable, interesting and aware of what’s going on. _ What about finances. Do you get enough coin to go to events from any sponsors?

At the moment I have no income.

_ How do you fund travelling to local and international events?

_ If you had a choice, what brand(s) would you like to ride for and why?

I try to win comps and sell some older boards to get around, but my parents are the ones who are paying for most of it. If it weren’t for them, I wouldn’t be where I am today. They have never given up on my dream and have helped get me to each contest or training session.

Well it’s hard to say. I’m interested in a brand that’s committed for the long haul. Since winning the state title my profile and exposure in Sydney has risen, through photography sites like Aquabumps and Frothers. I think surfing in a city the size of Sydney would be a bonus for sponsors. I think these days to be a professional surfer you need to understand and be willing to use social media to promote yourself and your sponsors.

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_ What are some recent contest results?

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/ My best placing this year would definitely be winning the under 18 N South Wales Junior Surfing Titles at Maroubra in July. Then an equal thi the Under 16 Occyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Grom Comp in Ju and equal 5th at the Australian Und 16 Surfing Titles last year in Tasma

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New at third in une der ania.

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"He has the right mix of technique and what he loves to do - raw, explosive power. He would prefer to compromise falling than commitment and as his completion rates rise , he is get ting more and more dangerous." Matt Griggs (former professional surfer, high performance coach from Sydney)

photo: mark croker

“The kid rips and doesn't have a sponsor, which is pret ty heav y. His surfing has the perfect blend of old and new. He’s a bigger kid for his age and sees that as an advantage now as appose to a disadvantage . His rail work is really mature and powerful and it ’s the kind of surfing I really appreciate . He still has a solid air game . It's common these days to watch kids wasting whole waves trying airs. Monty doesn’ t. He has the full package .” Blake Thornton (former WCT surfer turned, coach, lifeguard and blogger)

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“Monty has a lot going for him so it's hard to sum him up in a short space . I have seen what it takes to be a WCT surfer – Monty has these qualities, possibly more .

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/ I try to win comps and sell some older boards to get around, but my parents are the ones who are paying for most of it. If it werenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t for them, I wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be where I am today. They have never given up on my dream and have helped get me to each contest or training session.

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photo: jordan barta

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/ It’s hard to describe your own surfing. At the moment I’m known for my power, but in this day and age, you need the whole bag of tricks.

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/ I used to feel less confident, but now I think it makes me hungrier. At the moment, I really want to prove to myself, I can be at the top.

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