50 WAVES in THE LAST 60 days four states two countries
#29 JUL/AUG 2 015
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CONTENTS FEATURE
In the last 60 days Australia (and Indo) has experienced a lot of special surf. And guess what? We were there to document it. For you! There’s all the heavy action from the recent super swell, which lit up the southern Indian Ocean and exploded on the shores of Western Australia. A couple of days later the same swell marched into Lagundri Bay and turned Nias, one of the world’s most dreamiest barrels, into gaping 8-10 foot freight trains. From dangerous and deadly on one spread, to downright playful the next. That’s how we roll: wrap you up in fear and awe, then tantalise you with empty beachies you’d tie your kid to a pole for. It’s the full emotional rollercoaster. Hope you enjoy the ride!
COVER
Would you believe us if we told you the guy on page one is a big wave bodyboarder who’s recently taken to standing up on resin? Get off the crack, you say! Well, it’s true. Yamba native, Dan Ryan made a name for himself charging the heaviest slabs around the world on a lid. If you Google him and hit videos, you’ll see the infamous wipeout he had at Teahupoo on a crazy, perfect day in 2013. But more recently, he’s taken a liking to surfing and has honed his skills on slabs in South Australia and West Oz, where he now calls home. There you go, see kids! It’s never too late. A special mention goes out to Ordy for swimming fisheye on this day: we salute you. Photo: Russell Ord.
18secon d s
a pack involved in crimes such as running guns down to the beach when it's 10-foot-plus and illegal carry-on luggage weights: andy morris editor
andy@18seconds.com.au
alicia smith designer
alicia@18seconds.com.au
russell ord photo editor ordy@me.com
contributors
18seconds is self-published six times a year in Currumbin, Australia: PO Box 86, Tugun, QLD 4224. Views expressed by authors aren’t necessarily those of the publisher and editor. Copyright is reserved, so please don’t reproduce our pages for anything. Email addresses are published for professional communication and swell alerts only.
ted grambeau chris burkard duncan macfarlane ed sloane andrew christie leroy bellet billy morris lee pegus peter 'joli' wilson jason corroto jake 'yaki' newell – music ink dwayne fetch – video james driscoll – proof reading jake williams – designer
E D N ote
last a lifetime. This sandbank. This day. This morning. It’s a bit spesh to me. I had one of the best surfs of my life and the memory will last me a lifetime. Easily. And just quietly, I reckon Tommy Whits was enjoying himself too. It was three weeks ago on a crisp winter’s day. The swell was from the east around three-to-four foot with light offshore winds. Plans had been made the night before to hit it early. With the boards in the car and the caffeine flowing, we jumped on the M1 Motorway at Currumbin, heading south. I’ve started calling the patch of sand in our sights, ‘surf-check-city’ because the sand never stays in one place for too long and no matter how perfect the conditions are, I find I’m always searching and never really scoring pumping waves.
We both stood around giggling like groms. It was one of those moments where no words were exchanged, but we were both thinking exactly the same thing. After a quick glance at each other, the sprint was on back to the car. Whits climbed into his suit first (years on the competitive ring and he has the technique down!). Anticipation was high. As we locked up the car, we could hear the tell tale signs of a vehicle making its way down the dirt road. One followed by another. We were like, shit! Let’s get out there fast, so we can have at least 15 minutes to ourselves. But after 15 minutes three guys appeared on the beach. We were hoping they’d go to another bank, although this was by far the superior bank. Totally outta our hands, but with some luck, two of the guys paddled south and the other paddled north to the neighbouring bank. We looked at each other in disbelief while trying to keep our cool. You know, play it down so they didn't think it was that good! So, after a few seconds of thinking our luck was over, we were left how we found it: empty and going wave for wave.
A hot tip from a friend about a good bank, led Tommy Whits and I down a dirt road. At the end of the road was a small carpark, which could house about four cars before you’d have to reverse outta there.
For the following two hours, surfing doesn’t get any better for me. You name it we had it: dreamy morning light, offshore winds, solid double-up sections, toobes, gin-clear water, three turns on one wave and all over beautiful, white sand. At one point a huge pod of dolphins came cruising by, just to make the feeling a little more spesh.
When we arrived the carpark was empty.
It was nek level! But it wasn’t with some effort: we went the extra mile (from surfing around the traps on the Gold Coast). You’ve done it before. You know it's a gamble leaving good waves behind. But sometimes you win some… and this was one of those times.
After a quick jog to the beach in the predawn light, we could tell all the elements (including the sand) had come together. We watched two sets hit the bank straight away (this is when I snapped the grainy iPhone photo before your very eyes).
We were smiling, we were living. And now the memory bank has enough gold from this session to last me a lifetime. AM
There’s always the chance a sly sandbank has come to life down the coast. Sometimes you have to hit the road to find sessions that’ll last you a lifetime. Helps if you can grab a photo to remember them by. The image doesn’t have to be amazing quality. The waves must be pumping though. Proof in case: this firing beachie taken with an iPhone. Photo: Andy Morris
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.01
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.02
It hasn’t been big in southeast Queensland for the last 60 days, rather a lot of small to medium days. The sweetener has been the shape of the banks and the abundance of sand creating lots of fun, grinding barrels. Surfer: Shaun Harrington. Photo: Matthew Lackey
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.03
The southwest Australian coast humming under the full brunt of the southern Indian Ocean super low. Not often do swells of this magnitude combine with offshore winds, sunshine and weekends! Photo: Peter Jovic
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.04
Myron Porter samples the most hyped swell of the last century. Was it click bait by the surf media? Was it the real deal? Probably a mixture of both. What we do know is, it was fucking large! Surfer: Myron Porter. Photo: Russell Ord
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.05
Mitch Parkinson enjoying his last boardie session on the Gold Coast before the water temps dipped in to the wettie range. Surfer: Mitch Parkinson. Photo: Andy Morris
50 WAVES 60 DAYS
NO.06
We don’t know who this is. We thought it was a guy called Peter Lydorf (Gold Coast photog) on the other side of the lens. Turns out this wasn’t his wave ¬ he’d caught the one before it. But you know what? Sometimes it’s nice to appreciate the scene for what it is and not who it is. Surfer: Unknown. Photo: Andy Morris
50 WAVES 60 DAYS
NO.07
Chris Ross is a big wave maniac from the deep southwest of Australia. His insty account went quite for several weeks, which we put down to lack of deadly slabs being ridden. Turns out we were right because straight after this swell, his account popped up in our feed (with him standing in a monster slab) saying, “Sorry for the lack of posts. There’s swell around!” Oh and if you’re wondering who the maniac on the shoulder with the creepy helmet art and fisheye rig is, that’s our photo editor (Russell Ord) getting awfully personal with the ocean (bless his cotton socks!). Surfer: Chris Ross. Photo: Trent Slatter
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.08
Owen Wright’s recently surfed his best heat ever (two perfect 20's in solid lefts at the Fiji Pro). He’s comfortable in any swell size and any direction (proving this theory in heavy Box where he scored a perfect 10). The reason being the variety of reefs and beachies where he spent his early childhood and teens surfing: An area on the south coast of New South Wales rich in world class waves. Surfer: Owen Wright. Photo: Mark Croker
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.09
We ran a couple of shots of this session on our social media and it lit up with comments wanting to know where it was. We don’t disclose the waves in most of our posts (unless they’re more obvious places like D’bah, Snapper, Bells etc) because we believe in the search and respect locals. But here’s a hint: you wouldn’t have to search far if you lived near Palm Beach/Currumbin to find this bloke chasing his dreams. Surfer: Unknown. Photo: Andy Morris
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.10
Dan Ryan, the big wave bodyboarder turn big wave surfer, during the recent monster swell – about as deep and committed as you can get at The Right in West Oz. Surfer: Dan Ryan. Photo: Trent Slatter
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.11
The waiting period for the Red Bull Cape Fear event (at Cape Solander) is coming to an end (1 August) and sadly (ed note: as of our publishing date) the energy drink hasn’t had the optimum swell to close off the area and run the event. Lucky for the locals like Blake Thornton, Cape Solander has broken a few days this winter, but looking more like cape fun, with a hint of danger. Surfer: Blake Thornton. Photo: Mark Croker
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.12
Mick Fanning back home on the Gold Coast doing the Kung Fu hustle in between events. Surfer: Mick Fanning. Photo: Andy Morris
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.13
“Every break has it local legend. Steve ‘Veteran’ Perron's the guy at my local break. “He's been surfing this particular patch of sand for longer than I've been alive and knows it better than most. On good days you'll spot ‘Veteran’ waiting quietly for the wave he wants. I've seen a few guys paddle out, see he's older than most surfers in the lineup and I guess they don't expect much. Next minute they’re blown out of the water as ‘Veteran’ pulls in on the foam ball with his trade mark forehand grab rail. “You'll never see him go left, not even if there's a fire! It's all about the rights.” Jack Dekort Surfer: Steve ‘Veteran’ Perron. Photo: Jack Dekort
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.14
Misty ocean tents in northern New South Wales. Photo: Andy Morris
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.15
Mick Corbett setting up a monster tube at The Right in Western Australia during the swell of the century. You can see what happened next towards the back of the mag. It is pretty! Surfer: Mick Corbett. Photo: Russell Ord
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.16
Quinn Bruce hooks up with photog Fraser Spratt a couple of days before this very issue was sent down our cables and onto your screens. How’s that for freshness! Surfer: Quinn Bruce. Photo: Fraser Spratt
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.17
In one of the most crowded surf zones in the world, it’s unusual to see an empty set wave grinding down the point at Snapper. Thanks to a combination of factors this was possible: it was the first bump in east swell combined with good winds, since the sand had returned following a large bank-busting storm swell, which caught surfers off guard. Did you get all that! if you did, we'll see you down there next time it happens. Photo: Andy Morris
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.18
“The night before we knew it’d be on so we set the alarm for 2 a.m. and drove for three hours. Guys were already getting into their suits before first light as we pulled into the carpark. When we got out to the takeoff zone, we saw a mako shark throwing itself out of the water just behind the surfers. Something was telling us to go in, but seeing the waves coming through, there was no way we were going to miss it. The shark was spotted three times throughout the day. This shot was taken at exactly 7:54 a.m. and was the beginning of a fantastically long day of swimming and no toothy encounters!” Ben Shepherd Surfer: Mitch Kenyon. Photo: Ben Shepherd
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.19
A unique moment where the colours of the rainbow are sprayed over Gene Sykes as he exits a solid beachie in South Australia. He definitely found the pot of gold. Surfer: Gene Sykes. Photo: Jesse Little
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.20
A dreamy session down the coast at a secret location, which locals say, had the best sand they’ve seen in several years. Photo: Andy Morris
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.21
Mitch Coleborn throws one into the wind during a late afternoon session with good pal Jack Freestone (Jack also threw one into the wind, which you’ll see in a couple of spreads). Surfer: Mitch Coleborn. Photo: Andy Morris
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.22
“This shot is probably close to 10 years old now. Chiz [photog] said it would never get a run because it was a touch out of focus. Maybe he's right maybe he's wrong. Note the file’s called droppedimage. “This was the first moment I had on a big tow wave with a step building from the take-off. I got my arse handed to me, but it was a feeling I'll never forget: the rush of adrenaline, the living feeling. It was like getting bucked off a horse: you can either get back on and continue riding or not! “The very first thing I thought was where the hell was I. Honestly couldn't see myself in the photo and then I was like, how did I get there. It’s a weird process trying to figure out in your mind how to surf the place, but now it seems like taking the same route to work or school, or anywhere else familiar you go. “Anyway, another thing I noticed was in the right corner of the wave it appeared to be a cross. I'm not religious. But, I definitely do have faith. I tripped over it. Told chiz – he told me he couldn’t see it and from that day on I always knew, as long as I had respect and appreciation for the place, it would always have my back… and it always has. “I was pretty young maybe 18, I remember clearly, the same day I towed Tyler [Hollmer-Cross] into one of the biggest waves he's ever had. It was pretty funny: Tyler and I were on Marti’s ski, while they were trying to paddle a 20-foot day and we didn't really have a clue what we were doing. But we did, we just took to it. It came naturally and we had the time of our lives and that’s why we still do it today.” Mikey Brennan. Surfer: Mikey Brennan. Photo: Andy Chiz
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.23
Rasta may be one of surfing’s greatest travellers, but he knows when to stay put around home – and that’s definitely the winter months. Surfer: Dave Rastovich. Photo: Andy Morris
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.24
Jack Robinson from West Oz has long been hailed as one to watch. Now as a bigger and stronger 16-year-old, you can’t take your eyes off him, particularly when his local break (North Point) lights up in the 6-8 foot range. Surfer: Jack Robinson. Photo: Peter Jovic
50 WAVES 60 DAYS
NO.25
The beauty of D’bah is the smaller insiders still have incredible shape and power. And sometimes, they out do their bigger brothers breaking out the back. Mick knows this all too well having spent the better half of his life in the water here. Surfer: Mick Fanning. Photo: Andy Morris
50 WAVES 60 DAYS
NO.26
Dion Atkinson now resides on the Gold Coast, but manages to duck home to South Australia when the conditions are right. Sa is a bit of a waiting game, so this suits him perfectly. Surfer: Dion Atkinson. Photo: Jesse Little
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.27
Jack Freestone and Mitch Coleborn paddled out one windy afternoon at D’bah and proceeded to screw around on a bunch of fun looking ramps by themselves. Photo: Jack Freestone. Photo: Andy Morris
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.28
The Right under the influence of the June super swell. Photo: Russell Ord
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.29
The same super swell, which moved the southwest of Western Australia a couple of millimetres, impacted Indonesia a few days later. Many bumpy plane flights and dirt roads led to Lagundri Bay for the infamous Nias rights. The swell peaked for two days and the winds remained kind, lighting up the dreamy, palm fringed land for a host of pros including Anthony Walsh. Surfer: Anthony Walsh. Photo: Justin Buulolo
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.30
Noa Deane slips under the cover of a sucky beachbreak moments after paddling out. Like, one minute after! Surfer: Noa Deane. Photo: Andy Morris
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.31
For most people, this is exactly what you do when you go to Cape Solander. Pull in to ridiculously large barrels that’d snap you like a tooth pick. It’s no different for Blake Thornton. Surfer: Blake Thornton. Photo: Mark Croker
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.32
We mentioned before the state of the sand on the Gold Coast. This dreamy beachie (doing its best Straddie impersonation) sums it up nicely. Photo: Andy Morris
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.33
At the end of the day, it’s Mark Mathews and a few other men who decide whether the Red Bull Cape Fear event runs. On this day (during the waiting period) word on the street was these sets were too far apart to make it contestable. Still, when they came, makes for good magazine spreads don’t ya think! Surfer: Mark Mathews. Photo: Jordan Barta
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.34
Brent Dorrington and a scene which has become very familiar this winter on the Goldy: heaps of small, but fun and hollow waves around. There's a downside though: heavier than normal crowds at Australia’s most consistent beach break. Surfer: Brent ‘Brenno’ Dorrington. Photo: Andy Morris
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.35
Full-time lifeguard and talented water photog Matt Lackey, nailed a bunch of shots from this session. how he did it was by sending other photographers jostling for position, to the back of the line. Dean Harrington wasn’t complaining, nor were we when his shots landed in our email. Surfer: Dean Harrington. Photo: Matthew Lackey
50 WAVES 60 DAYS
NO.36
Noa Deane generally tries to avoid the crowds on the Goldy. He likes surfing late in the day, no matter what the tides and winds are doing. but This day he couldn't resist the drainers behind the rock at snapper and decided to hustle. his solution: go deeper than anyone. Saying the take-offs out here are hard is an understatement. Even Mick, Joel and Bede find the drop tricky. This wave before your eyes, breaking ridiculously below sea level and only metres from rock, Noa handled with ease. What does this mean? Means he surfs like a boss. Surfer: Noa Deane. Photo: Andy Morris
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.37
Jackson Coffey’s been chasing the freesurfing dream for the last few months. First up, he spent time south of Crescent Head scoring perfect beachies with Matt Banting. more recently, he's spent time in the West Australian, living off the land and threading left reefs in the desert. But before any of that, he found a couple of holes closer to home on the Gold Coast. Surfer: Jackson Coffey. Photo: Andy Morris
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.38
Chris Shanahan is no stranger to thick waves. He’s always up for a mission to The Right, which is exactly what he did during the recent Indian Ocean super swell. Surfer: Chris Shanahan. Photo: Trent Slatter
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.39
Fresh home from a land-locked stint in the mines, Jarrah Tutton returned with a strong desire to surf. Can you blame him!? With a wad of cash, spare time up his sleeve and a bottomless pit of talent, that’s exactly what the x-pro did, lucking into a consistent run of perfect winter surf. Surfer: Jarrah Tutton. Photo: Andy Morris
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.40
Dave Rasta managed to time his trip to Nias perfectly for the Indian Ocean super swell. His main priority was to visit SurfAid’s Mother and Child health programs. But secretly, we reckon he was on a mission to get ridiculously barrelled at one of the world’s dreamiest waves. Who said mixing work and fun was a big no no? Surfer: Dave Rastovich. Photo: Justin Buulolo
50 WAVES 60 DAYS
NO.41
As a native from Byron Bay, the idea of surfing remote, rugged, cold and sharky waves at the bottom of Australia would have Soli Bailey booking the first flight home. No way man! Soli’s the first to admit he loves exploring new opportunities in harsher lands with wilder waves. And besides, Byron is fast gaining a reputation as the home for big sharks as they discover the hip and happening town shrouded in natural beauty. Surfer: Soli Bailey. Photo: Jesse Little
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.42
Unknown surfer tackles the drop at North Point during the recent super doopa southern Indian Ocean swell. Surfer: Unknown. Photo: Peter Jovic
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.43
here's a couple of seconds after ord's shot on page 38. Mitch Corbett coming to the realisation the barrel he’s just pulled in to, really is the size of his house and you really could drive a bus through it. Surfer: Mitch Corbett. Photo: Trent Slatter
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.44
Here’s Jaggar Bartholomew (son of 1978 world champ Wayne 'Rabbit' Bartholomew) following in his old man’s footsteps, threading tubes in surf town Coolangatta. It’s hard to say if Jaggar’s as good as his dad was when he was 14, but ask Rabbit and he’ll tell you he’s even better, thanks to advances in technology and his peers. Surfer: Jaggar Bartholomew. Photo: Andy Morris
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.45
From dangerous and deadly on the previous spread, to downright playful on this spread. That’s how we roll at 18seconds: wrap you up in fear and awe, then tantalise you with empty beachies you’d tie your kid to a pole for. It’s the full emotional rollercoaster. Hope you enjoy the ride! Photo: Andy Morris
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.46
Super uber grom, Jack Robinson launching into a freight train at North Point during the recent super swell, which smashed West Australia head on. What are we going to call Jack when he grows out of being the super grom? Super man? Surfer: Jack Robinson. Photo: Peter Jovic
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.47
Underground charger Jarryd Foster (from West Oz – now living in Tasmania) was the winner of the premier Biggest Wave category at the 2015 Oakley Big Wave Awards for a ride at Cow bombie. Yeah Cow bombie is cool and all that. It definitely has the height advantage, but ask Jarryd out of the two, which wave makes your life flash before your eyes and he’ll tell you, hands down The Right in West Oz. Surfer: Jarryd Foster. Photo: Russell Ord
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.48
Dave Rastovich racing one of the last sets to barrel before the tide swallowed up this wave. You wanna blame someone for this session being cut short? Lay it on the moon! Surfer: Dave Rastovich. Photo: Andy Morris
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.49
Hey, seeing as though we don’t pay our photo editor enough, please consider buying a print off Russell Ord. He puts everything into his photography and a little bit of financial support from you guys might help him recover the costs of drowning a Nikon D4, housing, new 50mm lens and cracking his ski during this very session. Jump on his site for more information. Photo: Russell Ord
50 WAVES
60 DAYS
NO.50
The significance of this photo, despite the rainbow caused by an optical and meteorological phenomenon and Dean Harrington’s matching rainbow spray, is this moment happened hours after gay marriage was legalised in the U.S. They say, love conquers all. we say, love always wins! Surfer: Dean Harrington. Photo: Matthew Lackey
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