TM
APR/MAY 2011 issue 4
photo: anthony walsh SURFER: steve walsh
glidz.com.au
custom wetsuits • 100% hand made
photo: KENYU SURFER: steve walsh
glidz.com.au
custom wetsuits • 100% hand made
2011 COLLECTION www.odyssey2020.com
JUSTICE
SPEKTRUM
MEGADROP
TEMPUS
COBRA
RHYTHM
INTERCEPTOR
FIGO
CALLAHAN
OCTE
ODYSSEY
2011
CATALOGUE
NEW COLLECTION
2011
AIRLINER
LINA LAMA DOWNLO
GOSSIP CELEBRITAIRE MONDO
SWERVE VINTAGE MYSTIK
ODYSSEY
2011
CATALOGUE
ODYSSEY 20/20 HAS BEEN GIVING CLARITY FOR THE JOURNEY SINCE 2003… PRODUCTS FOR THE PEOPLE… ANYTIME/ANYWHERE… ON THE RUN FROM, OR TO, SOMETHING BIG… OR NOT SO BIG, AT A GIG, BEACH, MOUNTAIN, EMPTY POOL… WHEREVER… THE PRODUCT
Odyssey 20/20 is all about innovation and individualism and represents this in the products that we bring to the market. The brand draws from all eras to create cutting edge designs and practical frames that can be worn doing a variety of activities and under different conditions. We source only premium materials that go into each unique model baring the Odyssey 20/20 logo. Odyssey 20/20 sunglasses are not only the epitome of style, but are also extremely durable and provide exceptional clarity. Our range of Hand Made Acetate, Injection Moulded and Metal frames provide an impressive mix of style, comfort and durability at a competitive price.
MANIFESTO – AKA THE ODYSSEY… THE JOURNEY… THE SETTING…. THE STORY… WHAT’S YOUR ODYSSEY? Our people… who they are… where they play… where they are headed… The street where new sounds emerge for each generation screaming, dancing, wailing and flailing… The pen, brush or can of the unknown philosophers and artists whose scroll or canvas is the hanging in a gallery, the alley way and somewhere in between… It is how we play when the world is our oyster and equally, when the s#%t hit the fan… It is our life... Our score card… Our Journey… Our Odyssey... No one else’s…
WHATS YOUR ODYSSEY?
FOR MORE INFORMATION
info@odyssey2020.com AUSTRALIA/USA +61 8 9335 9985 NEW ZEALAND +64 9 376 9117 UK/EU/AFRICA +33 (0)6 70 09 46 15 ASIA PACIFIC +81 3 5800 1950 OR YOU CAN FOLLOW US ON
whatsyerodyssey
odyssey20/20
WWW.ODYSSEY2020.COM
FREE SUBSCRIP CLICK HER
no strings. just goo
PTIONS RE!
od times.
photo 18seconds
EDITOR's NOTE
Ancient principle of eastern wisdom “When the mind needs healing, work on the body. When the body needs healing, work on the mind.” Here’s our way of thinking. “When the mind needs healing, work on your bottom-turn. When the body needs healing, work on your tube-stance.” Just like Joel Parkinson is here during downtime between Snapper and Bells. Fuck surfing is good. Don’t let anyone tell you otherwise. Andy Morris
1 8 S E C O N D S MAGAZINE
English Pronunciation : fukkou wo negau Meanings : Wishing Construction
1 8 S E C O N D S M A G A Z I NE
Two good mates, dean bowen & ryan callinan
weekend at
BOWEN'S
Ryan Callinan discovers the splendour of the New South Wales' South Coast and Dean Bowen's charming hospitality.
T
here’s a little house on a hill that is privy to a surfer’s romantic love story. Where you can walk from one end of a family home, peer out the window and see a lineup, then walk to the other end, look out another window and see two completely different setups.
A
s a young kid growing up Dean had the surfing dream… surrounded by three point breaks which produce incredible waves. He strolled out the back door for two of them, or out the front for something different. He also had the guidance we all need. His dad Mick, who’d grown up surfing Gerroa all his life and new the breaks intimately – someone who was able to teach him about the setups and their optimum swell and wind combinations. Then there was his older brother Lloyd, who pushed him those few metres deeper and ruffled his feathers. And loving sister Ange, to keep him grounded. All the ingredients for a polished big wave surfer and a really good person. No bullshit, genuine man. The best kind.
A
n equally impressive kid, Ryan Callinan is also from a solid family a few hundred k’s north in Merewether, Newcastle. He’s grown up surfing punchy beachies and has the progressive style to prove it. What Merewether lacks in slabs, it makes up in surfable beachies most of the year. Ryan’s a treat to watch. So spontaneous and he knows how to punt as high as anyone. He’s the kid who’s always happy.
O
ur weekend hit was one of those ones – nothing’s planned (karn, we’re surfers!), everything just falls into place. We find ourselves driving along lonely roads, which we’d follow through tall eucalyptus trees, past scattered farmhouses and pastures. There were abandoned carparks at the end of dead end roads. We’d travel for up to 30 minutes down a dirt road that would just abruptly end. No sign, no nothing. We’d hop out, grab our stuff and walk for another 20 trusting Bowen’s local knowledge. And there we’d find electrifying, empty waves. It was like lo-fi lifestyle, meet hi-fi wave. A relationship made south of Sydney.
You normally drive around a lot looking for waves. There are so many setups you want to check, because you know somewhere could be better or a tad more perfect. Dean Bowen
early morning cuppa' tea hit before a wonder out the back to watch the sunrise over the pacific ocean
The country is really pretty. There are rolling hills, little towns and lots of waves. Too many waves. It’s hard to choose when they’re on. I love coming down here. I’m going to do it more often. Ryan Callinan
the house is fully exposed to the elements you'd need a full-time window cleaner to keep the glass free of salt
Bowen’s loud, he charges, he’s good to travel with. He’s confident. He’ll call you into waves and help you out however he can. He’s just an all round good guy. Ryan Callinan
ryan's sleeping on the pacific ocean side of the house. this is looking south west towards the hills
It was the first time I’d surfed it and there was no one out. There was Dean (pictured here), Lowy (Mick) and myself. Dean and I were just taking it in turns. Even Lowy was giving us waves. Every wave was a late drop, then you’d pull straight in. Ryan Callinan
Ryno (pictured here) surfs well on the reefs and the beachies. But deep down he’s always looking for an onshore left to do airs! Where as I’m looking to get barrelled. Either way he’s a happy kid and always wants to eat chocolate. Dean Bowen
I saw Taylor Knox do a turn in Hawaii this year that was one of the best things I’ve ever seen. Just a big, raw hack. I was blown away. If I can do a turn like that in my life I’ll be so stoked. Ryan Callinan
We nicknamed Ryno (pictured here) the scarecrow because his hair’s all strawy and in Hawaii he was outstanding in his field. Dean Bowen
You need a lot of boards on the south coast. I’ve got a tow-board, five short boards which range from 6’2’’ to 8’0’’. You’ve got to be ready ‘cause it can be 15 foot or two foot. Dean Bowen
DO YOU KNOW WHERE THIS IS? If you do, then we've got a pair of funky Odyssey 20/20 shades to give you. In fact we've got six pairs so log onto our Facebook page for your chance to win.
Each week we'll be posting a random lineu somewhere in the world – first person to spot walks away with a pair. If you know y breaks, you could walk away with all six.
up from name the your surf
WIN
Clues can be water colour, landmarks, outside reefs, position the photo was taken from, wave characteristics etc. Level of difficulty will increase each week. To start things off here's a better known spot.
CLICK HERE
the madness OF seven ghosts When Rip Curl invited Tom Curren, Dean Brady, Tyler Larronde, Oney Anwar and Bruno Santos over to Indo, it wasn’t for your average trip. There were whispers about what they were in for, a couple of images had been pushed around, but no one fully grasped the potential of what lay ahead. They’d seen river waves, but didn’t know this beast’s capability. There were challengers and dangers lurking in the river; crocs, zodiacs flipped, skis rolled and dragged. It was a timely strike into the depths of the Indonesian jungle; an unlikely place to find surfers where their only comfort zone, was water shaped like waves. Welcome to what the local villagers call, the Seven Ghosts River. This is Dean Brady’s tell all interview.
bruno santos
the madness OF seven ghosts
/ » How did Rip Curl stumble across the river wave? One of the Rip Curl France guys had a friend (French surf photographer and explorer Antony Colas) who’d been there before. They got talking and between them and Rip Curl Indonesia, organised the trip.
/ » What did they tell you about the trip when they first made contact with you? My team manager called and said I was going to Indo for a week, but it was to surf a river wave they’d heard about. I didn’t have a clue what to expect. He sent some shots of it through and I couldn’t believe it. Indo has so many good waves and then there’s this.
/ » Did they know how good it could get? Yeah they had some amazing photos of it. So there was proof, it looked like the best river wave I’d ever seen. So we just went off that and word from Colas who’d seen it. It was definitely worth at least having a go. The first day we arrived we had no idea what we were doing. Each day we learnt a little more.
/ » What were your first impressions? It was a bizarre experience, we were sitting in the boats and you could have been Barramundi fishing in northern Australia, that’s what the surroundings looked like. We couldn’t see any ocean and the river was flat, then the tide started really ripping out and about 20 minutes after that we saw white wash on the horizon. Everyone started cheering, it was pretty cool. That happened everyday. When we could see the wave coming, everyone would start laughing or smiling. It’s a pretty weird experience to see a wave breaking up a river.
DEAN BRADY
It was a bizarre experience, we were sitting in the boats and you could have been Barramundi fishing in northern Australia
the madness OF seven ghosts
/ » Is it something you could dream up or was it wilder than any imagination? I’ve seen footage of people surfing tidal surges in rivers like the Amazon but they never looked too good. I’d never seen quality waves like that, I didn’t even think it was possible.
/ » Tell us what you know about the phenomenon. Is it a tidal surge? Yeah it’s a tidal surge. It’s a huge river so when there’s a full moon tide, all the water ripping out clashes with the ocean tide coming in. That makes the wave.
The water’s running 12k’s per hour out of the river so you have a heap of water rushing through your fins
the madness OF seven ghosts
the madness OF seven ghosts
/ » How often does it break? Is it a once a year thing? No, just every full moon cycle. It’s actually quite consistent. But the largest waves are rare – you need the Spring Equinox happening together with massive tides to get the rapid water movement, a phenomenon which happens about every 19 years. Rip Curl had calculated dates in March when this was going to happen and it was game on.
/ » Was it challenging to determine where to be at the right time, to actually see the waves coming and ride them? Did Rip Curl have is sussed? No, we definitely didn’t have it sussed. We had a tiny bit of knowledge but not a lot. We knew when the wave was coming each day because of the tide but we took days to eventually find the best sections. The river was so wide, it made it hard to be in the right spot at the right time.
/ » Tell us about some of the dramas. Things went wrong everyday. We’re actually lucky no one was seriously hurt. The boats all broke down at one stage. Boats flipped, skis were rolled for kilometres. Surfers were lost (and found!). One of the boat drivers busted his ear open badly when the propeller landed on him after his boat flipped. That was heavy.
/ » How long were the rides? Could you ride it for k’s? My longest wave was 17k’s. Bruno rode one for 25kms. You had to lay down to give your legs a rest.
The wave rips apart the land and takes everything with it. The next day when the tides running out, all the trees and everything else the wave took the day before, float right back into the lineup
the madness OF seven ghosts
/ » How far up stream from the ocean were you? We started surfing about 25k’s inland and the wave stopped about 55k’s inland. Keep in mind it's about half a foot for the last 10k’s. It's only really good for a total of about three minutes per day – really good I’m mean like rippable sections. If you fell at the start of a good section you were spewing! We had to share those three minutes between five surfers as well. So some days guys would sit out or ride a longboard.
Tom (middle) was the first to get barrelled out there. He could have been mistaken for any 13-year-old grommet
the madness OF seven ghosts
bruno santos
the madness OF seven ghosts
/ » What about the shape of the waves? And the size? They changed the whole way down the river. Some parts were sucky, others were fat. The best section was about 4 or 5ft on the biggest day. And that was the biggest tide of the year. You could go right and left depending on what part of the river. There were four good left sections and two rights. It was a lot more powerful then I expected. I was flogged on one. There was a lot of water moving. The water’s running 12k’s per hour out of the river so you have a heap of water rushing through your fins. It made it easier to turn hard on soft sections.
/ » What about dangers lurking under the surface? We were told there were no crocs so we weren’t thinking about it. But on the second day we saw a small one. Then on the fourth day we saw one that was bigger then one of the boats. It was at least 12 foot. We were shitting ourselves after that. We made a rule; no one was to be left in the water for more than 30 seconds without being picked up.
/ » In the video the wave was knocking down trees on the riverbanks – what was the sound like? It was wild. The wave rips apart the land and takes everything with it. The next day when the tides running out, all the trees and everything else the wave took the day before, float right back into the lineup. By the last day there was shit everywhere.
/ » How did it work with the skis? Were you towed into everything? We took turns of being whipped in. Anyone who wasn’t on a ski just jumped out of the boat and paddled.
After the croc were you wondering what the hell you were doing out there? I was freaking. Nothing scares me more than the thought of being eaten by a croc.
ONEY ANWAR
the madness OF seven ghosts
/ » How many waves did you catch? There’s just the one surge/wave a day which broke for around 45 minutes. If you fell off you’d have to jump in a boat and catch back up to the wave and jump out in front of it. So five days, five waves, five long waves.
/ » Someone like Tom with a world of experience, was he taken away by it all? Yeah he couldn’t believe it. He was the first to get barrelled out there. Tom could have been
/ » What about the shots of all those perfect lefts in a row? There was a part of the river that looked amazing but it was more of an illusion. That’s the section we wanted the most. It looks unbelievable. It’s hard to explain, but they’re not actually good once you’re on them. But that’s just one section. There were other parts which were easily as fun as waves I’ve surfed in the ocean.
/ » Was there anyone else out there? No just our crew. We were in the middle of nowhere. It was a mission to get there.
mistaken for any 13-year-old grommet.
/ » Will you go back? Probably not. I’ve ticked it off without being eaten by a croc. I might leave it at that.
B BIK
Th 2011 S
1 8 S E C O N D S MAGAZINE
BITCHIN' KINI WARS
he manicured nails come out at the Swimshow on Australia’s Gold Coast
BITCHIN' BIKINI WARS U
nfortunately we’re not talking
big con. They were lead to believe the
about ladies wrestling each
event was going to be “huge” by Swimshow
other in a tub of slippery mud
Australia Director and organiser Luis
or slimy jelly. We’re talking about the
Betancur, with many exhibitors and buyers
uproar from disgruntled designers and
attending. Out of the hundreds of buyers
exhibitors who believe the 2011 Swimshow
on the delegate list, according to the Gold
on Australia’s Gold Coast was a non-event
Coast Bulletin only eight buyers had shown
and that Leah Madden’s label, White Sands
face at the Gold Coast Convention Centre
was favoured. There’s even talk the trade
by the final day.
show was riddled with group lies to gain compensation. Accusations are flying thick.
18seconds spoke to Luis Betancur recently who said, “everything was delivered to the
According to sources that wish to remain
designers and exhibitors that was in their
anonymous, the two-day exhibit was one
contracts.” He said he wasn’t sure where
the GGB had plucked eight from, because
checked out from the list, but when they
they had 20-30 buyers attend the opening
were contacted, they didn’t know anything
cocktail party and runway session alone.
about the event. Hence the limited numbers coming through the Gold Coast Convention
One of the main issues was the lack of foot
Centre doors.
traffic throughout the daytime exhibit. The general consensus from several
Luis Betancur ensured us the list was
anonymous designers was the delegate’s
not fake or misleading. “I didn’t make the
list was fake and misleading, with repeated
list… it was created by the industry people
names of old buyers. According to a report
themselves over the last year,” he said.
in the Gold Cast Bulletin, exhibitor Phil
“Companies logged in and registered their
Portelli (Lybethras Swimwear) contacted
business names and included any assistants
several on the list only to find they no
and buyers names, that may be visiting.”
longer traded. He said only 67 (buyers)
BITCHIN' BIKINI WARS W
e got our grubby mitts on
One anonymous source told 18seconds,
the list and contacted a
“there wasn’t a lot of advertising and not
random sample of buyers.
a lot of hype, which really put us off.”
Contrary to the report in the Gold Coast Bulletin, every one of them knew about
Another said, “I registered myself and my
Swimshow 2011. I spent over an hour on the
sister who helps with buying, but we didn’t
phone listening to all the reasons why many
go… we were just too busy.”
buyers hadn’t attended. They varied from lack of communication, a flat economy, to
One buyer said they were told they had to
I had a sore leg. Here’s a couple:
wait for a confirmation email approving their attendance. “We knew about it, but there was no confirmation saying we’d been approved to go, so we thought we won’t go at all. It’s a shame because it's a great concept.”
Then there was, “I didn’t get there because
There’s no doubt the buyers all knew
the economy is too flat. To take on a new line
about the trade expo.
I’d have to invest too much money.” The deal was, when payment was made And, “some designs were beautiful, but I’m not
for the exhibit, every designer received
going to waste my time because they’re not
the list of buyers. Swimshow did all the
something I can sell to my average customer
marketing. “It was then their (designers)
(ladies 25-50). We’re struggling at the moment
responsibility to contact buyers and organise
with the economy… it was just bad timing.”
interviews,” said Luis.
Finally another said, “I’d love to start off with someone who is small, but I just can’t afford it at the moment.”
BITCHIN' BIKINI WARS W
hen 18seconds visited
is out of our hands. That was the situation.”
the convention centre on
Understandably Luis could not drag them
the last day of exhibiting
all down there himself.
we were surprised with the lack of traffic floating around the stalls. Clearly a lot
As we walked from stall to stall, there was
of designers where disappointed with
a clear smell of anger in the air. People
the outcome.
were bitter. Lived in fact. There were death stairs. Desperate eyes. We wanted out. They
“So was I. I didn’t expect to have that
had every right to be furious. Some had
result,” admitted Luis. “Swimshow promote,
invested up to $10,000 on the exhibition
Swimshow approaches, Swimshow sends
and spent months prepping, when clearly
out the invitation. From that point onwards
they could have been putting their energy
whether the invitation is followed through
into driving orders elsewhere, during
what’s known as the peak buying time.
Let’s throw a little salt on the wound. What
There simply was no one around to look at
few people knew at the time was that Luis
all their latest bitchin’ designs.
(Swimshow organiser) was in a relationship with Leah Madden. Several designers said
By 12pm on the final day several designers
White Sands received more media attention
had began dismantling their stalls due to
because of the alleged relationship.
the lack of traffic. In one last painful swing of the machete, according to Leah Madden
“We don’t live together, we’re not married
from White Sands, one of Australia’s largest
and we’re not engaged. He’s just someone
swimwear buyers, City Beach turned up at
I’m dating,” said Leah. “We’re photographed
4pm. “Half the people had gone, so I had
in the socials together all the time. It’s no
a meeting with them and I’m positive they
secret at all. It’s just something that they
are buying from me,” she said.
didn’t personally know.”
BITCHIN' BIKINI WARS C
an a relationship sway
Questions were raised about why Leah
independent media coverage?
was able to have eight pieces in the parade
According to Leah, no. “Our
while every other exhibitor was allowed
relationship in no way had any reflection on
four. Again it was linked back to the
what media I received or what buyers I got.”
relationship, but quite simply she’d paid for it. “I had two brands. There were quite a few
“Media don’t offer coverage if they’re not
other booths that had more than one brand
interested. Buyers don’t buy labels if they’re
in them and they got exactly the same,” she
not interested,” she said. “I’d like to think the
clarified. “People who had more than one
guy I was dating would give me $30,000
brand and bigger booths got a couple more
worth of free fashion show. I’d love it!”
(pieces in the parade),” she said.
“I did my own separate shows that cost
anyone could do it. Everyone was invited
me $18,000, which got good coverage,” said
to do there own show and pay for it.”
Leah. “With the group show I don’t think I received any more than the rest.
Anonymous designers also believe the promotional videos of the event were based
“I spent $18,000 more than the rest of them
around White Sands branding and product
paying models, paying runway and paying
placement. One said, “we pretty much
for a show,” said Leah. “And paying for an
footed the bill for her marketing and extra
additional hour of cocktail party… that came
size booth.” But according to Leah she didn’t
out of my pocket.”
get anything for free. “If I could be bothered dealing with them (other designers), I’d
These privileges weren’t special. There was no favouritism. “It was in the manual…
show them my receipts,” she said.
A
ccording to Leah there was one
At least seven of the 30 labels broke their
woman at the show who was
contract. At the time of writing an anonymous
making a ton of trouble and being
exhibitor told us there are currently emails
a royal pain in the neck. Leah had spoken
and meetings back and forth from designers
to several designers who were really happy
demanding compensation.
and there were a handful that weren’t. “This woman has actually gone so far as to
Several international exhibitors vowed
encourage other people to lie, so they can
they’d never return to Australia’s Swimshow.
get their money back,” said Leah.
They can get cheaper stands, loaded buyers at much larger trades in Miami and Vegas.
People agreeing to lie to try and get their
Vegas baby! And to this date (15.4.11) several
money back. Now there’s a conspiracy. Growl!
people have still not paid.
Enough bitchin’, here’s a video of one of the more entertaining parts of the Swimshow. The Wild Orchard launch at Swingin’ Safari
1 8 S E C O N D S MAGAZINE
/
a person WHO TAKES PHOTOGRAPHS
Mick
Curley
/
/
somewhere in indo
a person WHO TAKES PHOTOGRAPHS
Mick
Curley
/
I t takes a strong breed to leave frequent income and security for an uncerta in future. You've got to get way out of your comfort zone. Thirty-two-year-old Mick Curley did it. He took a massive chance and followed his dreams of becoming a professional photographer. There was the high paying job – he bailed. There were the raised eyebrows – he ducked under them. He left Australia and now lives in Bali, owns a printing shop and shoots everyday. It was a hard road, but he wouldn’t have it any other way. In Bali he’s seen prices skyrocket. He’s seen quite surf spots become crowded. Interestingly he still reckons there are secrets left on the island. Let this man be your inspiration.
/ » How did you get involved in photography? Was there one particular job you did for a company or someone to get youR foot in the door, or have you been working on building up your profile over time? I’ve always been interested in photography from when I was young. The reality check, when I really decided to do it professionally, was after I’d travelled around Australia for two years surfing and shooting. I knew after the trip things were going to change for the better. You have to do a lot of work for nothing and prove you can deliver, before anyone will pay for you to shoot or even start opening emails. You have to want to do it and once you get to a point you have a choice – go for it or go home. I was constantly self-funding trips to Hawaii, Indo and always working to pay for good equipment. People started taking notice after I had a shot in the, Top Ten Surf Photographer of the Year Awards a few years ago. Funny thing was I resent emails I’d sent a month prior and no reply – all of a sudden people were replying. It’s crazy really, because magazines should be put together on the quality of photographs that come past the art director or photo editor, not whose name is on the email. But it is what it is.
Matt wilko giving lessons to the bali kid
/ Magazines should be
put together on the quality of photographs that come past the art director or photo editor, not whose name is on the email /
/
a person WHO TAKES PHOTOGRAPHS
Mick Curley
/
Flynn Novak (winner of the kustom air strike 50k)
/ » How long have you been shooting for? I’ve been shooting professionally for around six years.
/ » What were you doing before professional photography? I was a foreman for a large civil engineering company getting paid well. I then owned my own landscaping company for a few years. I surfed every day in between work and shot when I could.
/ » Many people would find it hard to ditch regular income for a lifestyle with an uncertain future. Was it hard to just drop everything and pursue your dreams? Not really. I guess you either belief in yourself, trust your decisions and make them happen or you’re a talker. I’ve always chased what I wanted to do and what makes me happy. Most people thought I was an idiot for giving up what I had, but not me.
/ » Was there ever a stage where you thought, fuck, what am I doing? What happens if it doesn’t work out? No. You either chase what you want or spend your life doing what other people tell you to do. I reckon you have to do what truly makes you happy and gets you stoked on daily life regardless of money. Anything else is secondary and you probably shouldn’t be doing it. If it doesn’t work out who gives a fuck, you’ve given it a crack and that’s something.
/ » Did you ever have second thoughts? No
/ You either chase what
you want or spend your life doing what other people tell you to do /
somewhere else in indo
/
a person WHO TAKES PHOTOGRAPHS
Mick
Curley
/
indonesia
/ » Did you ever come across massive hurdles that put you off chasing the dream? Well there are hurdles and it takes a long-time, constant hard work, long days with no pay to get anywhere in photography. If you don’t love it and aren’t passionate about it, then it’s not going to happen.
/ » Did people think you were brave chasing your dream? Or a damn fool? Some supportive, but most damn fool.
/ » Do you recommend it? I recommend chasing your own dream, not someone else’s. If photography is your dream then do it.
/ » When did you move to Bali? About five years ago.
/ » Despite the obvious (consistency, variety, cheap, heaps of travelling pros) what else lead you into making Bali your home? Sounds cliché but the people in Indonesia are incredible… constant perfect surf helps too.
sunrise on fire
/
a person WHO TAKES PHOTOGRAPHS
Mick
Curley
/
Tai graham and me scoring at a lesser known spot to ourselves
/ » Do you ever get sick of it? Bali? Indonesia? Sure… it seems like a perfect place to live but in reality it can be extremely difficult. But I’m not sick of it. I love it. You just have to find your place here and roll with how everything works.
/ » Which side of the island do you prefer? East.
/ » Which time of the year do you prefer? Wet season. No! Dry season. No! Wet season.
/ » Are there still secret spots left on Bali or do you have to jump islands for them? There are many lesser-known spots in Bali. You’ve got all the famous breaks but we surf almost every day by ourselves at a number of spots under everyone’s noses. Most people are sheep. That’s the island’s saving grace. Ever noticed when you paddle up to the next sandbank at your local and five dudes follow when the whole session you’ve been watching an unridden peak? You just got to make sure they don’t see you!
/ » Do you think there are any spots left untouched on Bali? Many.
Damian wills boosting
/ » Which island do you go to the most and why? Probably stay in Bali the most. It’s the most diverse place for waves I’ve come across. I love Sumbawa, Sumatra and Lombok – they all have a thousand epic setups. It’s a hard call because every island is totally different… so I guess it’s whatever you’re looking for.
/ » How do you feel when half the world’s surf photographers descend on Bali during the dry season? Really doesn’t worry me. Most of them sit at Canggu sipping lattés and have no idea where the best waves are. Nah! There are many top photographers who come here every year and work extremely hard with a good knowledge and respect for the place. We’re all visitors no matter how long you’re here, so it doesn’t matter to me who’s here and who’s not.
/ » How’s the state of the surf industry in Bali? Growing too fast for its own boots? The surf industry seems to be going strong here when other countries seem to be struggling somewhat. One thing here is the companies really look after their riders much more than I’ve seen anywhere else.
/ » What has winning surf photographer of the year meant to you? It’s nice to be recognised but it doesn’t change anything. I still have to work as hard as I’ve done before to get work and shots published.
/ » Being a resident have you noticed Bali becoming very commercial and expensive? Or hasn't it changed over the years? Bali has changed so much in the last five years. Prices are crazy compared to five years ago. Now you have to buy everything from the supermarket. The whole of Bali has gone up. Most of Indonesia the prices are the same as before. It’s just Bali… crazy how quickly things develop here.
/ » Have you considered moving back to Australia or are you going to stay there for ever? My wife is Indonesian and our son is due to be born in June so Indonesia is a part of my life for good. I have no idea if we’ll be here forever. Who knows? I don’t have plans to leave anytime soon. I’m keen for my kids to grow up here amongst the culture and relaxed way of thinking… and life. But I love Australia. It’s an epic place and would move back no problem if it was time.
Dede Suryana
/ Bali has changed so much
in the last five years. Prices are crazy compared to five years ago. Now you have to buy everything from the supermarket /
/
a person WHO TAKES PHOTOGRAPHS
Mick Curley
/
Wayan Gobleg speed running at deserts
/ » Tell us a bit about your gallery? I own and operate a photo gallery in Seminyak called Shoot Bali Images. We offer gallery quality prints for the average person at reasonable prices. I concentrate on shooting a lot on landscapes and culture in Indonesia, so along with surfing, that’s what’s mostly for sale. I do a lot of printing for professional photographers and artists, and send a lot of orders overseas. We print on canvas, art paper and normal photographic papers, and cater for the quality end of the market. Fortunately I have fantastic staff and don’t need to be in there everyday, so I can go on trips and shoot when I need to.
/ » How’s business going? Bali is a difficult place to run a business – it’s full of challenges, but yes it’s doing well. We’ve been open for five years so something’s working right!
/ » Is the saying true, you never work a day in your life if you’re doing something you love? I don’t know about that because I work longer hours now than I’ve ever had to for way less money. It all depends on your perspective. If you love doing something, you enjoy the work and it almost seems effortless. I guess if you're always looking at the clock during work, thinking you’re hard done by, you probably should be thinking of doing something different.
ozzie wright
1 8 S E C O N D S MAGAZINE
Excuse me darling, what’s your name?
Rhianna Buchanan / » Age 24 / » Live I live out of my suitcase traveling Australia and the world with work. / » Work I have an entertainment company with my partner called Flair Action Sports and Promotions, and run dirt bike events for my old man's company, Australian Dirt Bike Adventures. I also source promotional and photographic models for a few companies. I'm a bit of a multi-tasker, I guess! / » Ten things you like to do in your spare time? - ride my bikes - spend time at the beach - catch up with mates - pub sessions - make cocktails at home - have a good laugh - meet new people - check out new places - crank tunes - dance / » What’s the nicest thing you’ve done? I'd like to think I'm doing my part in changing the world, one rude little kid at a time; by teaching them to use manners and giving them a kick up the butt if they don’t! / » The baddest thing you’ve done? Shouldn’t tell you because I could probably still get in a whole lot of trouble for it today. / » Tell us something cheeky about yourself? I’m pretty slack when it comes to dressing myself, especially when we're at home and pants are often forgotten. If we have mates over or crash at someone’s house I normally have them yelling at me, "can you put some pants on woman!"
1 8 S E C O N D S MAGAZINE
Ship wrecked
in Indo Two and a half trips
H ow losing a boat on a remote reef triggered another unexpected adventure.
“ Mayday, Mayday, Mayday. Sailing vessel, Eloise, Eloise, Eloise. Taking on water. We’re in trouble. Need assistance immediately.”
T
he second half of our trip had began as the first had ended; over the cackle of VHF Channel 16 with the humbling power of the ocean in full flight, and lady luck at her bitchiest. It was late season Indo and I’d been plying the waters off Northern Sumatra since the beginning of the season. The Mentawais was the crescendo of our trip before about turning and putting her in the slip at Patong Beach, Thailand. We never made it to Thailand. This is the tale of what happened before and after; Indo legends, young guns, hot chicks, epic pits, Indo officialdom and everything that is late season Mentawais. The cigarettes, the sweat and of course the waves, at surfing’s mecca.
Ship wrecked
in Indo
trip one that sinking feeling
W
e'd been surfing at Bintangs, chasing the small waves across the coral on the back of a dying swell and staring down a week flat spell. At about 5:30pm it looked like a squall was coming in out of the north west which we weren’t protected from. The charter boats in the area took off at 7 knots. Keith motored past and plucked me out of the lineup. We set off at 5 knots doing what you never do at night; seeking out new anchorages in the dark.
K
eith followed our prior rum line to the small protected islet for about 4 nautical miles. We sailed through a squall which for me meant the luxury of a fresh water shower courtesy of mother nature. So I stripped off and washed the crusted salt and zinc off my face while Keith decided to swing wide on the GPS to avoid Sipora (Island).
I
t had just gone past dark and I’d gone back into the galley. I was brewing up a vege-roast (it was a Sunday and we had no refrigeration) when I came up on deck and looked over the edge, and the water had an eerie light blue colour to it. I peered over and had another look when I saw a head high right hander freight-train in line to break over the transom. I immediately yelled, “there’s a fucking wave put it in reverse!” The wave broke right on us pushing water into the cockpit and throwing both of us forward. Keith put it into reverse and the boat sluggishly turned side on. We could hear the teeth of the reef grinding into the fiberglass hull. Keith wrestled the boat side on, just as the second wave of a five wave set hit us flush broadside, pushing us further onto the reef.
I
t was like sending a summer surf school backpacker over the surgeon's table at HT’s. The hull had been pierced. Eloise was getting right bashed about the ears as everything shelfed ended up on the floor and water started to seep across the floor boards. I raced downstairs to check the damage, hit the bilge pump and replaced the towel I had on with a pair of boardies – if I was going down, it was with pants on. In the time it had taken me to do these three things, the water level had risen to ankle deep. We were in trouble.
I peered over and had another look when I saw a head high right hander freight-train in line to break over the transom
I
grabbed a hand pump and started going like the clappers. Keith put out the first Mayday call. We didn’t know it at the time but the keel had snapped off, the death knell for any boat, leaving the underside of the hull more exposed than a lighthouse. Keith came out of the flotsam with a bucket and was throwing excess water over the side. The water level kept rising and the boat now keel-less was flicking from side to side with the mast acting like a reverse ballast. I jumped back down stairs and put out a second Mayday call. No response.
A
t this point the water had risen above the air intake on the motor, killing it. We were now in pitch-black darkness. I grabbed the bucket and was throwing the now waist deep water over the side. Keith put out the last call on the radio, this time a broken string of expletives which were cut off as the water level rose to chest height, disabling the VHF. There we were, alone, on the edge of the Indian Ocean, in a broken boat, floating through a lineup, in the dark. I stood in the shoulder high water, amongst the former belongings which floated amongst the cabin and said to him with typical Australian understatement, “mate I think were fucked.”
There we were, alone, on the edge of the Indian Ocean, in a broken boat, floating through a lineup, in the dark
Ship wrecked
in Indo
Ship wrecked
in Indo
I
swam through the debris and grabbed my backpack. God knows how, but Keith swimming through the flotsam, emerged with a flare kit. I climbed back on deck which was barely above the breaking waves and pulled the tab on the first one. “Phzzz,” nothing, a quick glance at the packet. Expiry 2005. More expletives followed. I had one handflare left and jumped up on the deck hanging onto the mast. I pulled the tab, “boom.” It lit up the night sky like a war movie. The boat lurched side to side at a 45-degree angle and I fell onto my back blasting the 300 litres of fuel strapped to the toe rail with a metre long flame of red heat. I threw the flare into the water. Heavy. It was time to leave. No material possession was worth the risk.
T
hen a minor miracle. Out of the darkness, Darren (captain of the Navistar) responded to our Mayday calls. He paddled over the reef and jumped aboard in what appeared to be a superman rashie, took one look at the boat and said, “get your passports and wallets boys and let’s get out of here before the mast and boom come down.” I grabbed a hand knife and cut the tender free from the transom and threw the motor into it from the deck. I cut a McCoy nugget loose (if I had to paddle 5k’s in the dark it wasn’t going to let me down) and jumped over board in a pair of boardies with my back pack on. Darren and Keith followed. We tied our legropes to the tender (dinghy) and paddled it off the reef in the dark to deeper water.
D
arren took us by tender to the Navistar and offered us beer and cigarettes, and a roast. He was heading back to Padang the next day so he offered us a lift. We couldn’t leave the boat without an assessment, so an exchange of words over VHF saw us whisked us off to the Bintang where the last half of our trip was combined with an unlikely charter of Americans, South Africans and Aussies led by the captain, Daryl Robinson.
O
nce aboard we got the motor going and headed back to the island to assess the damage. Motoring up to the beach we passed freshly provisioned stocks, torches and ropes. The remnants of the boat were strewn everywhere. We beached the tender and climbed aboard the boat and started sifting through what remained of value. We took it above the high tide mark into the jungle. Keith was after his hearing aid. I was after answers.
T
he boat had ankle deep coral shards throughout as we removed radios and anything of value that weren’t broken or waterlogged. The mozzies in and around the boat were hectic and I was getting stung all over. The fear of malaria crept in. It was now 4am and the air was thick with buzzing insects of the nasty kind. If Indo was the big day out then this was the boiler room with cerebral malaria being your new dealer. A pack of Doxycycline (anit-malaria tablets) floated past. I dropped two without thinking. In a mini coup d’ete, I said to Keith, “I have better things to die for,” grabbed the tender and waded off over the reef lacerating my feet and leaving the broken boat with a broken captains ego on a small island in Indo and headed back to the Bintang. He reluctantly followed leaving the recovery to the light of day.
Motoring up to the beach we passed freshly provisioned stocks, torches and ropes. The remnants of the boat were strewn everywhere
Ship wrecked
in Indo
Ship wrecked
in Indo
half a trip enter the bintang vessel
T
he next morning saw the recovery and assessment. The keel had gone and the boat was full of coral and the hull was split and cracked like a watermelon. It was never going to sail again. The small island we'd run aground on had a large swamp filled with the spawn of a thousand mozzies. I was glad to have left the night before. We stripped her of everything valuable. It took us till nightfall. A conference was called and Diane who had organised the trip for her 12-year-old son Fisher’s birthday present (what a mum) made a call on whether we were to stay or go. Two half drowned rats who hadn’t shaved since July were an unlikely addition to anyone’s dream holiday but she put her skepticism aside and life long friendships were created. Brad, the trips resident photographer and Daryl the captain of the Bintang conferred to chase swell south. As the sun set on the Indian Ocean, the anchor was pulled, the motors fired and two and a half trips were born.
Ship wrecked
in Indo
two & a half trips - x time to surf
W
e'd chased the swell south overnight, while Keith and I exhausted from the prior two days, had crashed out. Whilst the party resumed upstairs, it was a shot gun affair and I awoke the next morning to a litter of beer cans and Brad keeping a solemn watch over a warm beer and a cigarette. It was to be a feature of the trip. The swell wasn’t co-operating and the resultant hang over meant the boat was deserted as the headaches were nursed away. Going from a 30-foot yacht sleeping on the fold out kitchen table in the galley, with no refrigeration, tv, food, power, a toilet over the side and strict rations of water, to a 100-foot ocean going yacht with every mod con under the sun was awesome.
T
he breakfast of fresh cut fruit and bacon and egg croissants revealed our new mates one by one with blood shot eyes.
author of this story, ben chivers
T
here was Diane from Connecticut, now resident of Bali who had organised the trip for her 12-year-old old son Fisher, Brad Masters was shooting the trip alongside, Antony from South Africa. Also representing the “motherland” was Matty Bromley the South Australian junior champ and Jordan a fellow Capetown frother. Saskyia a fashion designer from South Africa provided another single female and Drew Irons, cousin of the famed brothers represented Hawaii. Myself from Sexton, Queensland – the least renowned surfing zone in the world and Keith or “Special K” as he became affectionately known, the doomed captain and local fixture at Margaret River since the 70’s were all glued together by the larger than life persona of Daryl Robinson – Bintang’s captain.
T
his was in effect the Brady bunch on acid, with technicolor provided by the azure blue and greens Indo is famed for and a blood red Indian ocean sunset.
D
aryl had been combing the world’s oceans since forever. He’s not shy to reveal how his wife left him on his arse giving him the incentive to get going with his boys in the late 90’s. In fact he wasn’t shy to share any story ranging from his apprenticeship with the famed “Moose” from Cactus, to his rock group days, Sydney to Hobarts and nearly joining the SAS. Many a night was spent over cups of tea listening to tale after tale. His stories come thick and fast almost like a conductor one thread into another, leading his audience to a mystical and philosophical conclusion of raucous laughter. Anyone else it would be called as bullshit. Really painful and honest descriptions of divorce, broken families, life as a young orphan, fights, deaths and the threat of long term jail sentencing; he went to places no bullshit artists would tread.
W
e spent two days treading lightly and doing what you do on Indo trips when the swell is flat; swim, snorkel, eat and drink. The third day a call was made between Brad and Darryl about where would be firing. Secret reefs and secret beachies were discussed (they still exist. I got nothing out of them as far as spots were concerned).
W
e anchored up next to a right hander which was agreed would handle the late season Indo jumble coming out of the Indian Ocean.
D
aylight revealed the business. An overhead right which wasn’t quite there but the assurance was given it would turn on mid morning with the tide drop. The young guns descended with trepidation being the first trip to the Mentawais. The photographers hit the water. Every angle was covered, with both of the girls shooting from the roof.
Ship wrecked
in Indo
T
he wave was sectioning but Matty was possessed. His spiderlike arms would flail all
over the shop to get back to the peak. Then they would fall to his side with effortless style whilst doing the barrel ride thing all over again. Jordan and Drew being on there backhand would come up perilously close after the waves raced away from them. There time would come. They went in for lunch while Matty and I traded set waves all day and let Fisher have the scraps. We threw away caviar. We both agreed that it was the best surf of our lives. To have a shoot out with one other guy in an awesome setting, with awesome waves is something becoming increasingly rare these days. The photos tell the story. The smiles and stoke don’t lie. The booming hoots from Daryl on the boat served to confirm.
Ship wrecked
in Indo
1 8 S E C O N D S MAGAZINE
YOUNG
DUDES Profiling the groms of the future
ian gentil photo 18seconds
YOUNG
DUDES Profiling the groms of the future
ian gentil At just fifteen years of age, Ian Gentil has already surfed Jaws. This wave only breaks under formidable swells – the kind most of us peer at from the safety of the cliff or world wide web. For a skinny lad, the kid’s got a lot of guts. He’s also got courage and the technical skills to match. Whatever the wave size, he’s got the talent. Two years ago at Trestles during a heat, he scored two tens – cheeky lil’ devil
/ » Lives Maui, Hawaii. / » Years surfing Seven. / » How did you get involved in surfing waves most kids would hide in the bushes from? Yuri Soledad is one of the main tow-in and paddle guys at Jaws and he’s a good friend of mine, so he just took me out there.
couldn’t be faulted. He’s won the NSSA Nationals and US Championships and made the quarters of a Huntington fourstar event. He’s a grom of the future.
/ » You’ve towed Jaws and you’re only 15 years old. What was it like? It wasn’t much different from other waves I’ve towed, just bigger. It wasn’t huge but there were some scary sets, there’s a lot of chop on the face too.
photo pat stacY
YOUNG
DUDES Profiling the groms of the future
ian gentil
photo pat stacY
photo pat stacY
YOUNG
DUDES Profiling the groms of the future
ian gentil
/ » Was surfing jaws anything you imagined? No, I didn’t really think about it too much, Yuri just showed up at my house that morning so I didn’t have much time to imagine anything. I was just trying to distract myself from what I was about to do. / » What goes through your mind when you go back to school the day after towing or surfing something solid – do you slip straight back in as if nothing happened or are you like, omg these kids have got no idea about the adrenalin I just had rushing through my body – do you feel on a different wavelength to everyone else? I home school, and pretty much all my friends are a little older and have done it already so they know how it is too. / » Girls generally dig big wave guys – do they dig big wave grommets? Haha. Not that I know of. / » Are you already addicted to the buzz of surfing monster waves? Yeah I guess, I think I’m more scared still though.
YOUNG
DUDES Profiling the groms of the future
ian gentil
/ » You’re a skinny kid – what happens when you get nailed in large surf? What happens to everyone I guess. /»A few good men have lost their lives surfing big waves – does that put you off charging and pushing your own boundaries in large surf? Everyone has to if you want to be a pro surfer. You got to learn how to surf the north shore, that is just part of it all. If this question refers to tow-in, I’m not really going for that too much. I’ll go just for fun and maybe I’ll get good at it and start to like it more but I’m not aiming in that direction. / » What about your parents – are they supportive of you going out in the solid stuff? Yeah they don’t have a problem with it. They just like to know I’m not getting pushed too much. / » Do you friends think you'rE crazy surfing Jaws? No like I said they do it too.
photo 18seconds
photo pat stacy
YOUNG
DUDES Profiling the groms of the future
ian gentil
/ » Do you do any training or is your training just surfing? If I’m home I just train, not when I’m travelling though. / » What sponsors do you have? Billabong, Vitamin Water, Von Zipper and Dakine. / » DO You have a good support team to guide you through growth periods? Yeah. My parents of course, Yuri who is kind of my coach and Blair Marlin (agent). / » Do you have any other advice for other groms? Ummm. I’m still pretty young so I probably need advice just as much as they do. / » Who are your favourite surfers? Dane Reynolds and Joel Parkinson. / » Is there someone in particular who you’re trying to mould your surfing style to be like? I don’t know. Sometimes I try to surf like Andy Irons did.
A gang involved in crimes such as running guns down to the beach when it's ten- foot- plus and illegal carry- on luggage weights:
the 18seconds' posse andy morris
founder & editor andy@18seconds.com.au
Alicia Smith
Art Director & interactive magazine design alicia@18seconds.com.au
Angela Liccardi graphic designer
constructive
Feedback form give it to us. what do you like? what don't you like? rip in. it's all constructive. you'll be doing everyone a favour, by helping us make a better magazine for you.
NAME EMAIL COUNTRY WHAT DO YOU THINK OF THE DIGITAL EDITION? SEX
MADE by
18seconds