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contents
13 EDITOR’S NOTE All great changes are preceded by chaos
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15 CODE RED The heaviest day in Teahupoo’s history 17 SINGLE LENS REFLUX Ted Grambeau 57 ONE LAST SMOOCH The Indo dry season signs off 2011 in style 75
SRI LANKA: THE LOVE CHILD OF AFRICA AND INDONESIA The ultimate surf guide
113
YOUNG DUDES Soli Bailey
129
M USIC INK Reviews by Jake ‘Yaki’ Newell
131
P RODUCT REVIEWS Fiik Skateboards – get fiiked
134
F EEDBACK FORM Your thoughts?
Cover Ted Grambeau Surfer: Nathan Fletcher. More insaneness on page 15
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Like 18seconds.
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editor's note
12
“All great changes are preceded by chaos.”
The challenge became
“We’ve had empathy for
moving surfboards out
the shareholders who put
of Australia to sell for the
money into our company
right price internationally.
and to our creditors,
They couldn’t afford to lose
we’ve done everything we
Deepak Chopra
40 percent of the market.
possibly can.
But they did. As a result the Australian Taxation Office
“We can honestly look at
have a parent company
turned them upside-down
ourselves in the mirror as
(Base) with a bunch of
– forced closure. Between
directors and say we’ve
labels (Simon Anderson,
the initial setup debts,
done nothing wrong by
Darren Handley and
global financial crises and
anybody.”
Murray Bourton) sold
losing the exports, the ATO
globally, whilst sharing
wouldn’t carry them any
These guys are regarded
costs individual labels
longer (despite regular
as some of the most
would usually wear
repayments and early
successful shapers
by themselves (legals,
signs indicating financial
in the world. They still
business buyouts, setup,
recovery). Subsequently
have brands in demand,
distribution etc).
35 workers were kicked
which can make money
onto the street with
– I can guarantee these
redundancy payouts.
labels are not going to
The venture was creditable, but it cost
be lowered six foot into
money to establish and
I spoke to Murray Bourton
the ground with a board
staff. Money, which in the
after the demise, who was
nailed to the coffin.
seven years of operation,
respectably frank about
was never recovered.
the predicament. “We
So there is the chaos.
don’t want to be making
Here comes the change.
Then came the wrecking
excuses,” says Murray.
Simon Anderson, Darren
machine: the rising
“Mistakes were made,
Handley and Murray
Australian dollar, hiking
but there are things that
only know how to make
above one dollar for
have worked against us.
surfboards: Australian
every American dollar.
We spent too much money
made surfboards, which
40 percent of their market
up front which we never
are some of the best in
was exporting to global
recovered. Then the global
the business. They’re not
surf regions under license
financial crisis hit and
going to throw away their
deals. Brazil, Japan, New
more recently the rising
tools. They’ll be back in
Zealand, South America,
Australian dollar.”
some form or another.
USA and Europe.
And when they do, you Other people might say
know you’ll be buying fine
they lavished all the
quality from the best of
money on themselves.
the best.
“We’ve been so tight with ourselves over the last three years,” Murray explains. “It’s amazing how we’ve tightened our belts.”
Andy Morris
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The idea was there: to
(CODE RED)
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The heaviest day in Teahupoo’s history: August 27, 2011. Code Red is issued by the Tahitian Government. No water craft allowed to hit the ocean. Massive fines issued if caught. The Billabong Pro is put on hold. The cameras shift to the men towing-in.
Big wave surfers have been waiting all their lives for something like this. Either they’re in or they’re out. There’s no in between on these waves of serious consequence. Nathan Fletcher attempts the biggest and the whole world open their eyes.
/ I didn’t think I was going to make it half as far as I did / Nathan Fletcher
/ The biggest wave I’ve ever seen / Mick Fanning
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/ There was an intoxicating mix of excitement, fear, disaster, chaos, danger, power, adrenaline. There is a belief the closer you are to death, the more you are alive! All senses are heightened to the utter most limits. It’s very likely Nathan Fletcher was the most alive person on the planet for those moments.
All around was confusion as boats, jetskis, paddle boards, bodyboarders, surfers, water photographers scrambled to the horizon, as the massive lump of Pacific Ocean rose up and narrowed the escape route of the channel. Engines roared, voices screamed and shrieked as a 20-foot plus wall of water seemed to block the exit for dozens of craft.
/ The Tahitian boat captains held their ground so much, the blades of the propellers span freely over the colossus of energy sucking the reef dry. Within the vortex of energy, Nathan rode the perfect storm and possibly the best surfing I’ve ever witnessed. Surfing up and over, and within this monster foam
ball, he did everything right and yet the wave would still win. Whom ever the contest deemed the winner of Teahupoo 2011 (Kelly Slater), the real winner was Nathan Fletcher! /
/ Ted Grambeau /
video
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Single Lens Reflux bringing up the lives of legendary lensmen
For Ted it’s about
has the ultimate
being in the right
existence. A mid
time at the right
life crises early
place. He’s made his
on in life and the
own luck. Now with
answer to one
the merging of
simple question,
video and stills in
paved the way for
high-end cameras,
a career allowing
he’s toying with
him to wander the
his career path.
world countless
Which ever way he
times. It hasn’t been goes, you’ll know smooth waters all
the outcome will
the way. there’s
be brilliant. Come
been a bunch of
indulge in this
sacrifices: he
man’s life.
sold his house and a block of land to keep the dream alive. And he’s never been married nor had children.
interview Andy Morris
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Ted Grambeau
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the beginning I’m from the South Gippsland area of Victoria originally. I use to do the country thing. Play football (AFL) and surf on the weekends. I was a recreational surfer when there were fun waves around. I tore my medial meniscus playing football and ended up having the cartilage out because I was falling over all the time. My knee was totalled so I purchased a camera to shoot guys when they went surfing so I could still go surfing. I was nineteen at the time going to La Trobe University studying economics and I started questioning my love for economics – which was absolutely zero. I had a mid life crises early on in my life. I knew I wanted to travel. A lot of my close friends were travelling and I was receiving letters from the Himalayas and South Africa. I wanted to travel but I was also aware I should have something to fall back on – a safety net. That was the turning point in my life.
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“I was nineteen at the time going to La Trobe University studying economics and I started questioning my love for economics – which was absolutely zero”
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So I dropped out of economics and had a year off. Then I went to RMIT in Melbourne. That was one of the best photographic courses in a commercial sense in Australia or the southern hemisphere. I was accepted into the course just as photography was becoming really trendy and popular. I was lucky: I got in as a mature student even though the dropout rate was around 90 percent. Virtually no one would finish. So I ended up doing photography at RMIT, but still wanted to travel. I went into a studio for a while. A mate was in one of the top studios and I scored a position there. A place called Brian Brandt & Associates (Brian was a legendary advertising photographer 5.11.1929 – 4.10.2004). He virtually spawned half of Australia’s top advertising photographers. It was a privilege to even get a foot in the door.
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I asked myself a question: even if I can’t get work what would I like to do? There were a few things. I was into physical education so I could be a phys-ed teacher. And I thought photography. I was really enjoying it – great for when I wanted to travel too.
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surf. I more g assign pa
“I went to Bali and photographed progressively got more and return for each trip. Until it got to a point where I had my first nment where people actually aid for me to go on a trip”
first assignment occasions, the harder the trip, the closer you are to the people years later. Compared to the luxury boat trip where everything is provided. You know: you’ve got your internet and you don’t speak to people. When we arrived at Lakey Peak there was no surf camp. We were doing an exposé on Periscopes. At the time Paul King had supposably built a camp – we arrived and there were six poles in the ground. The surf pumped for ten days straight. It was six-toeight foot. Dead glass. We were sleeping in the rice paddies on board bags. It was hilarious. All the supplies didn’t come for a day or two. We were living on candy bars and whatever we had. The thing was: we had amazing surf and discovered new breaks. That was really the start for me.
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I ended up wanting to travel so I saved as much money as I could. I worked a stint on the oil rig construction in Bass Straight so I could buy some gear. Then I travelled. Gradually I started to get money back from doing trips. I went to Bali and photographed surf. I progressively got more and more return for each trip. Until it got to a point where I had my first assignment where people actually paid for me to go on a trip. I was thinking all right! This is life! One of the first trips was to Sumbawa with Headworks and Australia’s Surfing Life Magazine. It was a great trip with Darren Handley, Peter Morrison and Murray Bourton. We virtually discovered Lakey Peak on the trip. It was one of those trips where everything goes wrong. But in the long run it became a much more impressionable and bonding trip. I’ve found on a few
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parents and their thoughts on dropping out of uni It’s pretty interesting because like any parent, they want you to have security. Above anything though, they were like, ‘you do what you think is right and what you want to do in life.’ If I said to anyone at school I was going to be a surf photographer it was a joke because the job didn’t exist. There were around four people in the world
making a living out of surf photography at the time. The career guidance councillor wasn’t going to be too thrilled with my choice. You’d probably have more chance being an astronaut. At least there was a path to being an astronaut– there’s no guide to being a surf photographer.
The support from my parents was the only thing allowing me to follow my dreams. My father was a highly regarded footballer and we moved to the country for him to coach. I’m sure deep down he was disappointed I didn’t pursue more football and things like that. He was so active in sports and very openminded. He passed
away fairly early. My mother was so thrilled to show photos I had in magazines. She’d take them into the hairdressers and be like, ‘look everyone this is my son’s photo!’ I think there’s a really strong message for parents to support their kids in whatever their endeavours are.
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“If I said to anyone at school I was going to be a surf photographer it was a joke because the job didn’t exist. There were around four people in the world making a living out of surf photography at the time”
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There’s an interesting flow on from this too. Years later I had a book published by The Surfer’s Journal (Masters of Surf Photography – series). It was a lavish publication. I needed to do some retraining because of digital and went back to RMIT in Melbourne. I met a lecturer down there at the time, Les Walkling (international renowned photographer/technical genius!) and in appreciation I gave him a book. A few months later I started receiving emails from people going, you’ve really inspired me, I love your work. Completely out of the blue. The next time I saw Les he told me he’d used the book in his lectures to highlight to his students how you can follow your dreams. And that the most important thing is being passionate about what you’re in to. I was flattered and we have since become very good friends.
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rip curl I knew the guys from coming up through photography in Victoria. I’d been working with them for a while on the campaign. I went to the Canary Islands to shoot Gary Elkerton and Tom Curran. I had a staph infection at the time and on the way over it became out of control. By the time I’d arrived, I had a pumpkin coming out of my neck. I was put in hospital for ten days. The contest had finished when I was checked out and I was thinking great, I really fucked up here. I was released from hospital and it was almost fortuitous that I was travelling alone. I was thinking, well I’m not going home.
I’m staying here for a while. The surf absolutely pumped for the next ten days. So I’m just shooting lineups shots. I didn’t have to stand on the beach because I didn’t have anyone in particular to shoot. About the same time Rip Curl were creating ‘The Search’ campaign. So I had this stock of ready made lineup shots. Their campaign started and I had all these shots sitting there. So I was like, keep buying these shots boys!
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I’ve never been fulltime employed with Rip Curl. There was a synergy going on in their marketing direction and their philosophy, which in marketing terms is called, ‘The Search.’ Which is exactly what I was doing. I had a passion for going to new places and going outside the norm of where you might look for surf.
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I remember doing a trip in Europe. I’d purchased an old Citroën station wagon with the pump up shockers (the classic ugly ducking mobile). I had Brock Little and Garry Green who’d just dropped off the pro tour. He was sitting high in the rankings and just decided he’d had enough. So they came on a road trip with me. We drove from Paris down to Morocco, then back up to Amsterdam. To me that was Rip Curl’s first search trip. There was the whole vibe of not knowing what we were doing. Just searching and enjoying life as we went. I’d drive. Brock would enjoy the odd beer and Green would be up to mischief.
“I had an idea of people I wanted to work for, but you had to get whatever you could. Either washing dishes or moving furniture or a couple of days assisting with various people”
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style of photography But he was actually a famous photojournalist and the chairman of Magnum (the most prestigious photojounalist agency in the world). They’re reputed as covering world events and personalities. They’re really hardcore tellers of truth. Their style: they don’t care about technical things. They care about what’s real. I unlearned everything I thought I knew about photography. It taught me the power of a certain style of photography. It’s called the decisive moment – the one moment that sums up everything.
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There are a couple of major influences. I’d learnt all the technical aspects. Like how to create and work with light in a commercial sense - essentially you’re learning how to build a photo. I went and assisted in New York to see what the top of the tree was like. I had no idea what I was in for. I went door knocking asking if I could work for so and so. No one was ever home. It was like, ‘oh no he’s not home, he’s in Thailand or he’s overseas.’ I had an idea of people I wanted to work for, but you had to get whatever you could. Either washing dishes or moving furniture or a couple of days assisting with various people. Through a friend I heard of a job coming up with Burt Glinn. He was a corporate photographer and I was thinking, what do I know about corporate photography.
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Burt taught me so much. I couldn’t load the cameras fast enough for him. We were shooting film and I couldn’t believe how much he’d shoot. I would be like, ‘what are you doing?’ I’d have three cameras going for him. It can be a split second movement in someone’s mouth or eyes – the decisive moment. The other day I had to get 12 shots for a job I was on – I took 10,000 shots. Not to fill in time – had to repeat things over and over for the moment. That style of photography has influenced me no end.
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new format video cameras shooting hundreds of frames per second with magazine quality stills I’m still wary of what my role will be in the near future, but there is definitely a changing of technology, which will facilitate lifting images off video. Everyone is frothing over the RED camera. They have a model slated for this year (Scarlet) that’s 12k (as apposed to 58k – Epic-M package). Video guys will jump on that because they’ll be able to lift stills. Still guys will have to have it because they won’t be able to compete with video guys.
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It’s an interesting time in history at the moment with the merging of moving and still images. To this day I’ve made a decision to take stills because a lot of the people I work with are film guys. For years you had many people trying to do both, but they could never aspire to produce great work in both formats. They could make a little extra money, but pretty much fuck up both of them! A lot of the work I was doing was with film crews on big trips like Odyssey. The people trying to do both wouldn’t get those jobs because they didn’t want guys cutting other peoples’ grass.
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one third to one quarter of the current RED sensor at 300 frames per second)… it’s obviously getting closer to matching a 35-millimetre size sensor. It will be something that I’ll definitely have to look at. Am I going to film everything in RED? Or do I go the other tact and go higher quality, medium format and have massive quality landscape, portrait etc and go the quantum leap with something around the 80 megabytes. Either way you’re spending money. The whole trick is they make you spend money.
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The problem before was the shutter speeds weren’t high enough with video. If that’s overcome and you can lift any frame off a video clip – then lookout. You effectively have a motor drive of 300 frames per second, which is a massive advantage. But to get those frame rates you have to cut the sensor down each time the more frame rates you go up. It might say it’s a big sensor but you’re not utilising the full size. I’m not sure what the new generation is (ed note: savvy-tech-vid-guru Dwayne Fetch says you’re using around
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storage for large amounts of high definition video footage In a perfect world I would have a high end medium format camera for landscapes and portraits so the work is the highest quality possible. Obviously it would have to be a paying project because you’re talking about spending 40k on a camera that in threeto-five years will be super seeded by a 200 megapixel point and shoot camera. The development is so rapid, the period of time you have the equipment has got to earn its income back quickly, before it becomes defunct. Film cameras used to last years and it didn’t matter what model you had the quality was still the same. Now you get three years out of a camera, then a new model comes out which you need to have or else you’re not competitive.
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We’re talking terabytes of mobile storage and they’ve got to be raided so you don’t lose data. You’ve got the Phantom cameras (approx $250,000). There are two or three in Australia now. They’re massive frame rates (10,000 plus) but they’re very specialised. Slow motion is definitely back in flavour at the moment. To be honest it was in flavour 15 years ago with Jack McCoy, Sonny Miller using film cameras. And Don King. When Taylor Steele came along the young kids thought it was too boring because it was slow motion. Everything goes in cycles. Would you want to spend 250k on a Phantom camera and get three-to-five years of being the flavour of the month? It’s obviously very spectacular in sport, but in moderation. It’s about finding what best suits what you want to do.
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old saying: spend hundreds get thousands back new saying: spend thousands get hundreds back
It’s affected everyone. If you were taking up surf photography these days to make money you should be put in an asylum. It’s passion driven. There’s no question about it – it’s lifestyle driven. Although some people have been quite successful.
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Digital has been a blessing and a curse. It’s nice to have the instant repour. Your learning ability is faster because you’re not waiting two weeks to get film back from developers. You can shoot unlimited and it’s no more expense. But then again you’ve got so many people who are shooting now and much smaller web budgets – the competitiveness in surf photography has multiplied by twenty times from ten years ago.
“I can make more money through photography if I stayed home. I could shoot advertising. Or weddings and make four times the income I am now and just work weekends. But I wasn’t put on earth to do that. We’re here for a good time, not a long time”
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For me personally, the learning curve and all the challengers excite me, and even though there are so many more people shooting and the companies hire their own and get young staff to work for less, there’s still potential to make a living out of photography. It’s more about personal development in my photography and less about satisfying what other people want. I do have a lot to learn in a business sense and should have my own arm of marketing with posters, clothes, t-shirts and that’s still possible. It’s a journey at the moment.
My direction in photography is utilising my skills broader than surfing into advertising and fashion, where I have an advantage over the run of the mill ad or fashion shooter. Anything involving water I’m much more comfortable than they are. Just add water. I used to be put off shooting fashion because of the wank factor – but I’ve been really enjoying it for the last few years. You can still be a normal person and achieve great fashion shots!
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I’ve been successful at surviving. I wouldn’t put myself in the financially successful category. My measure of success is the lifestyle I’ve lead. I’ve managed to have a life people dream to have on their annual holidays. It really is an amazing existence. Obviously in the end I would like to be financially rewarded and the next projects I have, are going to be more aware of the potential. I can make more money through photography if I stayed home. I could shoot advertising. Or weddings and make four times the income I am now and just work weekends. But I wasn’t put on earth to do that. We’re here for a good time, not a long time.
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personal sacrifices I sold my house to my sister to do one of my big early trips. I sold a block of land. Virtually it’s like whatever it takes to get on the next trip – almost like being a junkie trying to get the next hit. A lot of people say to me, ‘oh you’re really lucky to go on all these trips.’ I’m like, ‘well why don’t you?’ And they’re like, ‘well I can’t. I’ve got a job.’ So I say, ‘quit your job.’ And they say, ‘well I can’t. I’ve got a house and I have to pay for it.’ ‘Well sell the house.’ ‘Oh I’ve got the wife.’ ‘Oh, we won’t even go there.’
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I’ve never been married because of my career choices. Nor had children. It’s a combination of meeting the right people in your life at the right time. There have certainly been times when I’ve decided to travel and it’s ended relationships because I’ve been like, ‘I’m going overseas now.’ I don’t know if I’m semi nomadic. A lot of my projects are still travel orientated. It’s hard to live in a suitcase and commit to a relationship.
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Only the people who make themselves available.
Martin Daly (frontier man, chartering unsurfed waves to surf alone) once said to me, ‘luck is the meeting point of preparation and opportunity.’ In other words, if the opportunity comes up and you’re not prepared for it with an existing job or financial commitments, that’s no longer an opportunity for you. It’s where these two coincide, that you’ll have more luck.
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Everything in life comes down to making choices which direction you go. I’ve been fortunate to make myself available when opportunities come into play. They don’t come to people locked into other jobs because no one is going to offer a trip to Tahiti if they’ve got a nine-to-five job.
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onE last
The 2011 Indo dry season has been foolproof. The key months saw back-to-back swells lighting up the huge expanse of grinding reefs, points, rivermouths and beachies forming the archipelago. There were endless options for toey travellers. Many late night dreams were filled. Strike missions into the deepest corners of Indo were weekly. Seasoned men say it’s been just like the good ol’ days. Now, the island chain puckers up once more and lays a kiss to see out the dry season.
photography Brad Masters captions Putu Made Wayan Ketut 1
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Wherever he goes, Jamie O’Brien leaves his mark. Just ask the boys from Lakey Peak (who, um, aren't so big on the JOB phenomenon since his last trip there - just Jamie being Jamie and rubbing people the wrong way). He's still welcome here at Padang and it's a partnership everyone should see once in their life.
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Wade Goodall and the sort of make-orbreak steeze on a grotesque Bali ramp that six months on, would earn the poor bloke a compound fracture in his shin and a few months on the couch.
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The hasn
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Although it's doing its part to stimulate the local economy, wearing singlets baring the same logo really isn't a good look. Great beer, though. Great...
onE las
smooc
European influx to Indo n't been all bad news.
st
ch
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He's claiming it would have been the best barrel of his life - if he made it. For a man who, in his prime, was considered one of the best backhand tube splitters in the game, it's big call from Dean Morrison. Hard to argue though. Note the 12 frames - roughly three seconds - where he’s not even in the picture. In fact, it’s lucky we're looking at it. Photographer, Brad Masters says he usually stops shooting after ten if there's no sign of life.
onE last
smooch
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The Hawaiians can be a polarising force in the archipelago. But having spent the better part of a decade here, Mikala Jones understands subtlety and what's required to navigate the often treacherous, though always rewarding, back roads of Indonesia.
There's more to South African surfing than Jordy Smith. And you'd hope so too, with the waves they've got. Berrick De Vries and the nimble frame that's made him no fun for sharks, but gives him plenty of spring for sweet little stalies like this.
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Dylan Longbottom formed part of the mass exodus of Australian surfers taking advantage of the strong dollar in 2011. The underground Australian hero has set himself up a shaping business over here and yet, now in his late thirties with a young family, still somehow finds the time to nab shots like this and do swell runs to maxing Chopes.
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It's arguably the most intimidating wave (that's been found thus far) in the archipelago. Ask around and it's easy enough to find someone who’ll take you there. Getting yourself down the ledge and into something like this, however, might be a little more difficult. Mikala Jones having no such troubles.
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the love child of Africa & Indonesia
He returned reeking of delicious curry aromas, dried roti crumbs in his beard and a traditional surf travel guide with an up-to-the-minute burst of flavour and imagery.
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Sri Lanka:
Fresh from his victory at Follow the Light Foundation Awards in America (celebrated surf photography competition), we threw Duncan Macfarlane on a plane bound for Sri Lanka.
text & photography Duncan Macfarlane video 18seconds
(Marty)
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I
t’s the finals of the Sri Lankan Airlines Pro at Arugam Bay for both the Women’s QS and the Longboard World Tour. The ocean has been small and windswept all week and almost as if it were scripted, the surf picks up and wind swings offshore for the final day of competition. Duane De Soto, the defending World Champion, notches another win under his belt and is carried past me up the beach.
The swell is four-tosix foot and clean, the air is hot and the sun sucks the life out of anything it touches. Courtney Conologue and Lakey Peterson do battle in their all-teenage final – a progressive sign of women’s surfing of late.
Afterwards I slowly make my way back to town along the point and the five-minute walk turns into 15, as I weave through all the locals playing in the ocean.
I pull up on my walk back from the point at one of the beachside Halfway through hotels and order a the last heat of Lion, the delicious competition an endless Sri Lankan beer. The stream of Sri Lankans manager of the hotel cascade onto the sits down nearby beach, all wearing their and downs a cold Sunday’s best. Some beer, so I ask him his still wearing their thoughts on the motorcycle helmets surfing competition too. The first wave at Arugam Bay. of locals turn into a “Today…was really hundred, then the good for the bay hundred turns into you know…” The two hundred, and by 50-something, slightly the end of the final chubby Australian there are a thousand ex-pat Marty speaks people swarming the point. Courtney wins and slowly, almost as if he’s moves through the crowd seen the bottom of too to the stage where they many beers in his time. “I mean, of course all present the winners to the people coming here the buzzing crowd. are obviously going to boost business for a bit.
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(Marty)
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B
ut you guys had really good waves today, which was great… you know. Because the waves have been small and bad - it wasn’t the best impression, but the fact that today and the finals were on in great surf, will show everyone what we have to offer.” He pauses, sips on his beer and sits in silence for a minute. “And, I mean, because of that, it might mean you guys come back next year which will build on the tourism here.” Later someone tells me that Marty is an ex-professional surfer and used to compete against Michael ‘MP’ Peterson back in the day. I wasn’t sure how long he’d been in Arugam Bay or what made him come here. I liked to think he had a run in with the law or something like that.
I asked him what he thought we could do now the competition was over. “Well. There are temples. Like, really old temples from the old dynasties here that you can go and look at. And then there is Yala (National Park), which is where you can see elephants and crocodiles. People seem to like that too. And I mean, you can just relax and surf, which is what most people want to do here anyway. There are so many surf breaks everywhere, it’s good to just explore the place.” I finish my beer and feel I’m still in need of a couple more to cool me down from the tropical heat. I look to my new pal once more for answers about the ins and outs of Arugam Bay. “Well, there’s only one place which actually serves beer out of a tap and that’s Siana View.
That’s the only place around here classifying as a proper bar. There is the local bar out behind the main street, but you don’t want to go there. They just fight and it’s a pretty seedy place. So don’t go there. But most of the hotels serve beer so you won’t have go too far.” I thank Marty for his company and leave him alone with the sunset and beer, and can see why he lives here. Not because of some far-fetched crime fantasy, but for the warm weather, cold beer, pristine beaches and good waves.
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(Ramesh)
The western influence at Arugam has an overwhelming positive reception and tourists are welcomed with open arms. One Tuk Tuk driver I jump in with named Ramesh, tells me how he and other residents at Arugam, are grateful for the visitors coming to the Bay. “You are Australian! Yes. I very much like Australians. After the tsunami your… your… Army come in. And they fix up the roads. And they help rebuild the town. This is why when you come to Arugam, myself and all the other people are very liking the tourists.” I jump out of the Tuk Tuk and wave goodbye to its gracious operator, and walk into a restaurant.
That’s another thing the locals can be happy about. The food. The waiters and chefs occasionally work on, “island time” and you might not get your food in the same, timely manner as home. But, if there’s anything worth waiting for in life, it’s a Sri Lankan curry. There are, dhal curries, veggie curries, fish curries, chicken curries, sweet curries, spicy curries. And then there’s the rotis. The half-pancake, half-burrito type flat bread, which wraps up all types of good stuff and is fried on an open hot-plate. It’s one of god’s gifts to the world. Similar to Indonesia, western food is widely available and good in quality if you need a break from curries. Prices are usually a little higher than the local food.
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ecently emerging from three decades of civil war and having rebuilt after the Boxing Day tsunami, National Geographic ranked Sri Lanka as the second best island destination to visit in the world. A well deserved rank too. The teardrop shaped island contains rich culture, pristine beaches, amazing food and diverse wildlife. With international travel restrictions lifted in mid 2010, tourism’s just beginning to pick-up again and the economy is building its way out of the hardship it has endured.
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(Ramesh)
A
“Oh, it’s 100% safe here my friend. No problem now. These people are just security to make sure everything stays okay.” And it is. There’s a heavy military and police presence in the streets but they’re polite and friendly, and the atmosphere there is relaxed and safe.
Fresh out of pocket after my meal, I need to top up my wallet and meet Ramesh out front. There is, by the way, never a shortage of Tuk Tuks waiting to take you around. There are ATM’s in Potuvill, five minutes out of Arugam, which are safe and always operating. I tell Ramesh I will give him a tip if he drives fast and we fly off the curb. Along the way we stop at a military check point. Ramesh’s licence is checked and we continue on. I ask him about the war and how
We pull up out the front of the ATM and I withdraw my money. The notes get spat out and I return to the Tuk Tuk and head home. The currency there is the Sri Lankan Rupee and while I feel like I am placing thousands of dollars into my wallet, it’s more like $50AUD.
safe it is here now.
$1AUD will get you about 100RP. $10AUD will get you 1000RP and so on.
The Sri Lankan economy has been steadily increasing since they emerged from political unrest. Tourism has built over 46% in the last year. A portion of that Tourism has been built around Arugam Bay and the unique, and beautiful coastline.
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western style meal can cost anywhere from 500 – 1500RP ($5-$15AUD) depending how much you eat. Where as the local curries you can get for under 500RP. A 10% surcharge is added to most meals and tipping, while not required, is appreciated.
“I thank Marty for his company and leave him alone with the sunset and beer, and can see why he lives here. Not because of some far-fetched crime fantasy, but for the warm weather, cold beer, pristine beaches and good waves.�
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“The bay mate, it’s the best. Always fun out there mate. Sometimes crowded, but it’s where I surf the most. When it’s big, like eight foot, Potuvill Point will be about three-to-four foot and bloody firing mate. So bloody good. I love that wave also.”
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(SAM)
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I
f you’re a goofy footer who cringes on the thought of going right, then I’m sorry to say Arugam isn’t your ideal surf destination. If you’re in the 99% of surfers who can surf both ways and would enjoy a long, sand bottomed right point then look no further. “Bloody g’day mate! How the heck are ya mate? What’s up mate?” He must have spotted my Australian accent as I introduced myself. He put on a surprisingly good impersonation too, keeping it up for the whole conversation. Sam is 31 but looks 18, and is the proprietor of Sam’s Surf Shop, one the few surf stores in the area, and perhaps the country. He stands at the opening of the store, which is a four-bythree metre cement box. Lining the walls are 20 or 30 boards, all tinted a dark brown and baring scars from years of use.
“Sometimes crowded, but it’s where I surf the most. When it’s big, like eight foot, Potuvill Point will be about “Oh yeah, for sure three-to-four foot and mate. Definitely, you bloody firing mate. So know. Arugam, Potuvill, bloody good. I love that Lighthouse, all the wave also.” spots man. I used to be on the QS too. But now “What about barrels?” Curious to get a sense of what the surf culture is over here I asked Sam if he surfs.
I’ve got my business to run, and I’m building a house too, so I haven’t surfed so much lately you know.”
“Lighthouse, for sure. Same as Potuvill, maybe a bit bigger. When Arugam is big it’s like four foot. Five foot. But it has the best “What’s your favorite tubes mate. So hollow. wave around here?” I ask while sitting down You’ve kinda come a bit on the gutter in front of late. Best wave are in July. June, July is the his shop. season for waves here: “You don’t mind if I it’s so good everyday. smoke?” Sam queries Sorry, excuse me for a politely as he sits down second okay mate?” next to me. I laugh, telling him it’s his shop and it doesn’t bother me. “The bay mate, it’s the best. Always fun out there mate.
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(SAM)
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n Israeli man walks in asking about boards. That’s another thing about Arugam Bay, the Israelis. Whether it’s a deal Israel has with Sri Lanka or there is just cheap flights from Israel to Colombo, there is a lot of Israeli tourists here. Most are doing a trip just before or just after their mandatory military service, however none of them have any surf etiquette. The Israeli man finishes his inquiry and walks off along the main street. They’re mostly friendly, although I wouldn’t pick a fight with one if they dropped in on me.
where there should be a V cut into the tail, is a wide squaretail and it has five fin plugs. It’s stained with a purple swirl through it and stands out from the rest. Sam sees me and comes over.
I am looking through the collection of sun stained boards, studying there era and condition. I come to a shiny, new board. It’s shaped like a short, fat, twinfin however
“Sometimes we fix boards, but we don’t have the materials to shape. It’s too expensive mate.”
“That’s my board,” he says. “Goes so good in the fast point waves.” “Did you shape it?” I ask, still taken aback with its odd shape. “Nah, imported it mate. There are no shapers in Sri Lanka. I get all my boards from buying off tourists or getting my business partner in Dubai to ship them over.
“What about fixing boards?” I fiddle with a big rail ding on one of the brown dinosaurs. Sam smiles and says “Yeah we do ding repairs. Maybe about 3000RP ($30AUD) for a fin or 10,000RP ($100AUD) for a snapped board. But sometimes people just hire boards, which I do for about 800-1000RP per day ($8-$10AUD).” A man with a bucket of fish walks by and Sam has to excuse himself once more. He excitedly walks to the man with the bucket and joins a growing group of locals. I walk over and see about 20 small fish crammed in and the crowd barters with the fisherman.
“Dinner?” I ask Sam. He smiles and nods back. Noticing my conversation has reached its end, I thank Sam for his company and shake his hand and tell him if I need a board I will come visit. I walk away taking solace in the fact that, despite a rapidly building tourism industry and surf culture, the people still have a strong connection with their culture and to the roots of the sleepy fishing village that is Arugam Bay.
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“Bloody g’day mate! How the heck are ya mate? What’s up mate?” He must have spotted my Australian accent as I introduced myself. He put on a surprisingly good impersonation too, keeping it up for the whole conversation.
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(Arugam Bay: the lineup)
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Arugam Point Arugam Point is the main wave of the area and generally the most crowded. It breaks for approximately 100 metres on an average wave and around 300 metres if you find a pearler. The wind is always best in the morning before the trades come up around 10-11am. The point can handle plenty of swell up to eight-foot-plus. Inside point Some 300 metres in from the Arugam Point. It doesn’t connect to form some type of superbank, so don’t get too exited. On an average day this wave a bit of a novelty, but can be a fun, gentle break for beginners or other halves learning to surf. Bonus is it’s wedgy and out of the wind.
Potuvill Point Several hundred metre right point on sand bottom. The wave is generally about half the size of Arugam Point and is more protected from the trade winds than other places. It’s only a few kilometres away and faces roughly the same direction, but you surf further in from the actual tip of the point. It’s the closest point you can surf to the north of Arugam. In a Tuk Tuk it takes around 15 minutes, half-tar, half-dirt road. A round trip should cost about 1000RP or $10AUD. I want to stress how much the wave breaks incredibly close to the shore: you could almost high five someone from the shore when they’re on a wave. Almost. Apparently when there’s a solid swell up around six-toeight-foot-plus, Potuvill Point is around threeto-four foot and offers a very consistent, long barrelling right.
Whiskey Point Whiskey Point is 500 metres past Potuvill Point. It’ll take you about 20 minutes by Tuk Tuk to get to Whiskey Point from Arugam. From Potuvill Point, it’ll take you an extra 15 minutes to drive to cover the 500 metre stretch because you have to drive all the way back to the main road and around, and in again. So it’s worth picking your spot first, or walking to the next point and getting the Tuk Tuk to meet you there, much quicker. A right, sand bottom point with some smooth rolling rocks on the tip. Whiskey picks up a lot more swell than it’s neighbouring Potuvill but still doesn’t get quite as big as Arugam on the same swell. There is a really nice Warung on the point with a large, wooden deck with cushions and tables for tasty food, and cold beers post surf.
Peanut Farm It’s a pretty popular ‘plan b’ wave for a lot of people around Arugam Bay. It’s approximately 20 minutes south of Arugam, in the opposite direction to Potuvill. The spot runs in two separate points: the inside break which is sand-bottomed and runs for 50-100 metres and the second point which breaks just past this one. The second part has a takeoff in front of rocks on the shore and underwater. That’s about as heavy as surfing gets in Sri Lanka. On occasion, with a tad more swell and the right wave, you can connect the two points together and get a long 300-400 metre wave right through. With a solid swell, this place can produce some really good, fast and super hollow barrels.
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(Arugam Bay: waves out of town)
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Okasa Big rocks roll into the ocean behind the sand-bottomed right. There is a story about a god coming to shore and the rocks are his canoe he left. Looks like a fun little set up, very open to the trade winds, so you need to go early or when the trades aren’t around. Took exactly one hour in the Tuk Tuk heading past Peanut Farm and Panama Point.
Lighthouse According to Sam (surf shop owner), it’s one of the better waves of the area and is probably one of the best tubes about too. It’s a solid 45 minutes to get there in a Tuk Tuk and is affected by the trades so the earlier you are there the better. Cost should be around 2000-3000RP. Panama Point Never went there. Sam from the surf shop wasn’t too exited about the wave. Said it’s average quality and wind affected. Google earth set up looks good though.
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(Arugam Bay: getting there)
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G
etting to Arugam Bay is relatively straightforward to any travel savvy surfers. It’s not an epic adventure novel where you travel on elephant back for days feeding on nothing but pure will. But there is enough travel involved to make you feel like you’ve made a significant journey by the time you roll into Arugam main street. From Australia you can book flights to Colombo (Sri Lanka capital city) with a lay over in either Kuala Lumpur or Singapore depending on your flight and airline. Regular Sri Lankan Airline flights connect you to the capital of Sri Lanka once or twice a day from Singapore. Total flight time will be around 10-15 hours.
From Brisbane it’s a seven-and-a-half hour flight to Kuala Lumpur, a small one hour flight to Singapore and around a three-anda-half hour flight from Singapore to Colombo.
The buses are small, not air-conditioned and very crowded with little space for luggage and surfboards. By bus it takes around 16 hours of driving with a bus change half way and I can’t imagine From Colombo is where the stations would be you need to use your organised and cater smarts. There are for western tourists. several ways to travel But if you’re looking to the 300km to get to do the trip as cheap as Arugam Bay, which possible, it’s perfect. is on the opposite side of the island. The Another option, which first option is public is probably the most transport. This is by far popular for travelling the cheapest option tourists, is to hire a and you can get a van (and driver) to ticket for less than drive you to Arugam $5AUD, however if you Bay. It’s around $150want to still have your $200AUD each way, marbles by the end making it a lot more of your trip, I wouldn’t expensive than public recommend it. transport. However if you’re travelling in a small group then it’s the best option and after splitting the cost, is a lot more affordable. Driving times by car can range depending on route and time of day.
At midnight you can get to Arugam Bay in five hours, whereas doing the scenic route at day can take upward of 12 hours. But general driving time is between the seven-tonine hour mark. By far the quickest and most comfortable option is chartering a seaplane. Tickets cost about $180AUD each way, but for couples or solo travellers it’s worth it. The plane lands in a lagoon just outside Arugam’s main stretch only a one minute Tuk Tuk ride from all the hotels. The seaplane returns to a calm river on the outskirts of Colombo and a transfer is required to take you to the international airport.
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(Arugam Bay: keep your smarts)
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Dogs They look like Bali dogs, smell like Bali dogs, and contain all the same diseases too. Including rabies… While most are mellow there is the odd one that gets territorial. Tread carefully. Malaria Not too many mozzies, but malaria is around. Take usual precautions.
Ripped off The occasional Tuk Tuk driver will try charge you a little more than he’s worth. There is a standard rate that is set by the Tourism Board of Arugam. Check out the rates and pre-negotiate fares to prevent yourself from being a victim. Hospitals One was just set up near Arugam, however the closest one after that is in Colombo – 12 hours away. Don’t go messing yourself up too bad
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photo duncan macfarlane
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/ Young Dudes
Profiling GROMS of the future
Soli Bailey /
photography Credited video Jy Johannesen
/ I just got back from the pro junior in Philippines. I’m on my way to Bali then to Hawaii for five weeks… so I’m pumped for a good start to 2012 /
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photo duncan macfarlane
/ Young Dudes Profiling GROMS of the future Soli Bailey /
“He’s really passionate about researching what’s going on worldwide with surfing,” says Soli. “We’re both constantly learning by bringing There’s no doubt Andrew new people into our has played a major role lives: coaches, fitness in his personal and trainers and mentors… surfing development. so we’re both always From the fragile first evolving in all aspects.” few waves to now, they’re spent their lives We think Soli’s future is clear. He’s got the riding waves together. “He has helped me gain drive, the ambition. as much experience as I You’ll definitely see can,” says Soli. “We have him on the world tour. Especially when he travelled a lot together, Soli is the marketing dream. Naturally gifted surfing some of the best says, “I think combining this (power based surfer with heart-throb breaks in the world.” style) with new school looks: a real crowd And his old mate is a aerial surfing, is where pleaser. wealth of knowledge the future is at.” We when it comes to what And at this stage he couldn’t agree more! the kids are up to and doesn’t want to be a progression in the sport. famous free surfer. He’s up to speed with He has a rock solid all the Innersection competition head. clips (online freesurfing “I think it’s good to competition), who’s establish yourself on the world circuit first,” been featured in previous 18seconds’ says Soli. Young Dude features (apologies for the shameless selfpromotion). Most father-son relationships are close. Soli and Andrew’s is no different. They are close. Super close. Like, brotherly close. “He’s been my mentor when it comes to everything,” says Soli. “He has a great love for surfing and the ocean. We basically spend all our time and thoughts around surfing. We get a bit irritated with each other at times, but he's my mate.”
“There’s an exciting level of challenge and competitiveness, which drives you to be a better surfer… so that’s my goal at this stage.”
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or a sixteenyear-old, Soli surfs like a fully grown ratings leader on the world tour. In a nutshell: he tears the bags out of moving water with a combination of wellrounded flare and rail. He has a lot to thank for his style: Jordy Smith, Dane Reynolds and Taj Burrow are some of his idols, but his biggest hero and mentor is his father, Andrew.
/ Young Dudes Profiling GROMS of the future Soli Bailey /
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/ My sponsors ar great: I get alo really well with the I love all the things have to do… it’s been epic year (2011) for so far
photo 18seconds
are ong em. ings I n an me far /
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/ Young Dudes Profiling GROMS of Soli Bailey /
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/ I’ve been surfing and training heaps, doing lots of Bikram Yoga to stay supple /
f the future
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photos mileksurfimages.com
/ Young Dudes Profiling GROMS of the future Soli Bailey /
/ I think combining this (power based style) with new school aerial surfing, is where the future is at /
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photo duncan macfarlane
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photo 18seconds
/ Young Dudes Profiling GROMS of the future Soli Bailey /
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video
/ Young Dudes Profiling GROMS of the future Soli Bailey /
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/ I developed a style when I was young based on old school rail-to-rail surfing of Tom Curran and Occy /
/ Young Dudes Profiling GROMS of the future Soli Bailey /
/ I’m not competing against just one or two guys, but everyone in my generation of surfing who are striving for the same goal /
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photo shane dawson
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music inK reviews by jake 'Yaki' newell
Bastian’s Happy Flight My love (single)
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You’ll bop, groove and pull ridiculous faces – then you’ll glance nervously over your shoulder once you realise you’re still riding the bus. No matter how your taste has matured and changed over the years, how ‘hip’ you’ve become, there’s certain things that’ll always retain their cool. Bastian’s Happy Flight is turning these guilty pleasures, into aural ones. Five electronic musicians (and self-proclaimed visionaries) out of Perth have released an EP imaginatively titled EP01 and My love is a super-sexy sliver of what to expect. Throwing buckets back to Europe in the 80’s and new wave, indecently exposing big-bushed porno-bass and giving stiff trouser thrusts to the future, prepare to feel equally amazing, awkward and guilty, like the first time you pushed your junk up against the jet in your mate’s family pool. Bastian’s Happy Flight has landed. Press play - you know you want to.
SOUND & video
HELM Home (single and clip)
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Since forming in 2008 HELM have been consistently raising the bar, shouldering labels like ‘what Aussie rock has been lacking for too long’ and yet the hard rocking Gold Coast boys just keep standing and delivering. Where they haven’t filled voids, they’ve created them by streaking away from the pack and latest single Home, is a sonic warning to their contemporaries the ghost at the helm ain’t hitting the breaks just yet. Morose, reflective and begging for just one more chance: the end of ones tether has never sounded so beautiful. Initially, the guitar and vocal is more delicate than that of HELM’s previous work. Frontman Lucas Stone could sing a new born to sleep or break the devil’s hibernation, and although this is Stone staying well above ground, it’s far from soft rock. This gorgeous tale of woe, helplessness and longing still has all the HELM staples: pounding drums, thick, crashing rock riffs and an irrepressible groove swelling to a monumental crescendo. Then there’s the
clip. Visually, Home is magnificent. Rich, glowing sunlight transcends the song’s gloomy undertone and ponders ‘what next?’ in the wake of an obvious emotional storm. HELM have an impeccably tight and brutally loud live show, two deftly crafted masterpieces under their belt, and are now poised to split the metal peloton once again. Presumably titled ‘Vol. 3’ (previous releases were titled ‘Vol. 1’ and Vol. 2’), HELM’s third full-length is in it’s final production stages with a release set for early 2012. Until then though, see HELM for yourself, supporting The Butterfly Effect nationally right now, and keep your ears peeled for third single ‘Bullets’ and a HELM headline tour from late November.
Film clip directed and produced by Talon Clemow of www.clemoHD.com
product reviews For more information, prices and stockists click on the images
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There are a bunch of different Fiik skateboards in the lineup, but we’ve checked out the inflatable rubber wheel types: the go anywhere, any time range. Trust us, no wave is out of your sights. These are the ultimate surf check mobiles. Seriously, they’re so powerful you
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can smoke it up, even if you have a small penis (trust us). Or alternatively you can shred through the parks when it’s been flat for too long. They cost very little to run, in this expensive world. These boys are a sound investment for any aspiring wave hound.
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Key Features
Key Features
•C oncave deck: provides better stance traction
• Deep concave deck: delivers steady, fluid control for manoeuvrability and styling
•S horter wheelbase: more manoeuvrability for tighter turns •P ower plant: extreme high-torque – lots of power on-road and off-road •T yres: pneumatic off-road street specials. Also available with heavy-duty profile knobby rubber, for getting off-road and into the dirt •R ange: 25-35 kilometres
• Extra ply veneer: built-in strengthening with tuned flexibility • Long wheelbase: more clearance means more off-road versatility • Power plant: extreme high-torque – plenty of power to grind the dirt! • Range: 20-30 kilometres
combined Features • Motor: 800 watts • Max load: 135kg • Top speed: 37kph • Re-charge: 3-5 hours • Three speed settings give you progressive control for confident board skills development • ABS braking: anti-Lock, controlleractivated-braking. Regenerative technology helps increase ride-time • Wheel rims: aluminium – lightweight, rock solid • Battery: rechargeable memory-free, deep-cycle, high-output battery-pack. Quick-release, 10-second battery exchange • Stepless digital throttle, with tri-speed selector
A gang involved in crimes such as running guns down to the beach when it's ten- foot- plus and illegal carry- on luggage weights:
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the 18seconds' POSSE andy morris
founder & editor andy@18seconds.com.au
Alicia Smith
Art Director & interactive magazine design alicia@18seconds.com.au
Angela Liccardi graphic designer
jake 'yaki' newell music reviews
dwayne fetch
behind the scenes
Asher wALES stuntboy
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