Go/Camping It’s

Destinations

THE LATEST LOCAL TRAVEL DEALS AND GETAWAYS PLUS JOURNEYS AROUND THE GLOBE

GLAMPING, CALIFORNIA STYLE

Enjoying the great outdoors has never been easier or more luxe.

BY KASIA PAWLOWSKA

RYUJI MORISHITA

A yurt at Treebones Resort overlooking the Pacific.

EARLY 30s, RUGGEDLY bearded, clad in plaid flannel (American made), fitted Levi’s raw selvedge denim, Red Wing boots — you’ve seen them shopping at Whole Foods and Nugget Markets, and there’s a name for them: lumbersexuals. The term lumbersexual itself is a portmanteau of a portmanteau, where lumberjack meets metrosexual (an urban man meticulous about his grooming and appearance), and while fashion doesn’t always correlate with social movements, there seems to be some interplay here. In the past year, Topo Designs, Tanner Goods and Filson have all opened brick-and mortar-shops in San Francisco filled with wares like leather-bound flasks, roll-top rucksacks and water-repellent tin cloth jackets to meet the needs of discerning outdoor enthusiasts. And as long as you are dressed for it, you might as well head outdoors. The past two years have marked a rise in all kinds of camping throughout the United States, with the total numbers for completed overnight stays hitting 8.45 million in 2014, up almost 7 percent from 7.91 million in 2013, according to National Park Service data. These numbers account for four types of camping: tent, backcountry, RV and at campsites operated by concessionaires. Backcountry, aka wilderness camping, got the biggest boost, with a nearly 10 percent jump from 2013.

But we live in a time of convenience and easy entertainment, and campsites today are catering to that. Boutique music festivals like Day in the Desert offer an intimate, limitedcapacity experience for attendees, with a variety of accommodations, including tepee tents and, for those really not inclined to sleep outdoors, rooms at the nearby Pioneer Motel. Throughout the country, a desire to connect with nature without abandoning creature comforts has given rise to glamorous camping, or glamping, with sites like Hipcamp and Glamping Hub providing leads to shelter ranging from barn lofts to geodesic domes. Looking to get away from it all (or most of it)? The experience is a mere click and a drive away.

So what exactly is Hipcamp? Simply put, it’s the brainchild of Corte Madera native and current Sausalito floating-home resident Alyssa Ravasio, who felt conventional websites for booking outdoorsy stays left a lot to be desired. Furthermore, Hipcamp offers campsites at all national, state and regional parks in all 50 states, and at Army Corps of Engineers sites. It also recently launched the country’s first land-sharing marketplace, which allows access to private spots like Oz Farm in Point Arena and nature preserves, for starters. “We’re adding about 10 pieces of land every week,” says Ravasio. “This unlocks access to places people have never been able to go before in Marin, like Salmon Creek Ranch and more.”

Hipcamp’s mission is to get people outside and connected to and caring about the land, something it aims to facilitate by streamlining the booking. An easy-to-use website lets prospective campers browse by location, view user photos, and get a concise rundown of activities and features available at each site. Think TripAdvisor, but with a more appealing interface. It even provides unorthodox guides for the truly adventurous that explore topics like the best leaves to use if you have no toilet paper and the best way to get it on outdoors. Additionally, if you’re fortunate enough to own a scenic parcel, or if you are having problems affording said parcel, the Hipcamp people are always looking for great new properties. “We’re using recreation to fund conservation,” Ravasio states. “Landowners don’t want to sell their land or change it. This lets them earn some revenue.”

Oz Farm, one such spot, is the site of a former commune tucked away in a valley by the coast, about 120 miles north of Marin. Power is almost entirely wind- and solar-generated,

Opposite: A view of the domes at Oz Farm. This page from top: A tin cloth jacket and other gear at Filson; making morning coffee at El Capitan Canyon.

and the place is a vast cellphone dead zone. Lodging consists of two yurts and five distinctive cabins that discreetly dot the 230-acre property. A pair of geodesic domes is separated by the Garcia River, accessible only via a makeshift wood plank. And dog owners can breathe a sigh of relief: Oz Farm is pet friendly.

Amenities vary slightly from cabin to cabin, as do number of beds, but all include a wood-burning heater, a sink with potable water and an outhouse. The community house has a common kitchen, indoor plumbing and dual soaking tubs reminiscent of a Cialis commercial. In the middle of it all is a 17-acre organic garden; campers can purchase a box of seasonal produce to cook with for $20, and don’t be afraid to ask the people working there for recipe ideas. You may find yourself utilizing garlic scapes and other plant parts you had no use for before.

Glamping Hub, started in San Francisco by David Troya and Ruben Martinez, skews more toward glamour than camping and lets potential guests narrow their search in three ways: types of glamping, destinations and collections. “Families’ ideas of vacation are changing and traditional camping is a big investment,” Martinez says. “This way you get to enjoy Mother Nature and be comfortable.”

After playing around with the web options for a few minutes, you quickly come to a conclusion: that you can basically glamp anywhere. Caves in Spain, eco-pods in England, camper vans in France — destinations include more than 80 countries, with more than 400 in California alone. Some of the categories are broad, like best luxury camping in the United States; others cover a niche, like yurt rentals near Monument Valley. Looking for a pet- or family-friendly cabin? There’s an entire portal dedicated to that.

Closer to home, a three- to four-hour drive will land you at a popular Glamping Hub property, Treebones Resort in Big Sur. The resort is primarily yurts — there are 16 — though it also offers traditional campsites; an inbetween option consisting of a Sibley tent atop a wood platform; and a “human nest.”

Situated just so, the nest is a woven wood-art structure accessible by ladder with sweeping views of the Pacific. Created and built by Big Sur artist Jayson Fann, it isn’t waterproofed, but if you’re fine with some morning mist, a night here is likely an experience you’ll never forget. The other options aren’t quite so rustic: the yurts have queen-size beds, plush comforters and a separate seating area. Amenities aside, Treebones is an eco resort and has taken it upon itself to “perch lightly.” Unlike most all-inclusive properties offering buffets, it serves organic farm-to-table dinners made with locally grown ingredients. Food waste from the restaurant is fed to the chickens on site or composted in the organic garden. Guests can go on several eco adventures, including a moderate Big Sur hike or ocean kayaking trip. Massage is available for adventure-sore muscles.

In addition to Hipcamp and Glamping Hub, other alternative lodging includes Costanoa, the Pescadero eco resort whose tent bungalows and expansive spa have made it a glamping favorite since 1999 and where activities include mountain biking, horseback riding and a kids’ camp. Its calendar of seasonal events ensures an active stay year round.

Another favorite is El Capitan Canyon in Santa Barbara, where you can hike, dine and enjoy spa treatments in a serene natural setting. The once-spartan campground has blossomed into a resort getaway under new ownership: since 2001 accommodations have included cedar cabins with down comforters and wood-floored safari tents. Restricted parking limits noise pollution and summer evening entertainment makes for a luxe vibe.

For something more quaint and secluded, consider the Redwood Tree House in Healdsburg. Nestled within a redwood grove, it flanks the Russian River, where you can go rafting, hang by the water or simply explore Sonoma County’s famously delicious wines.

Wherever you go glamping, one thing’s for sure: those who try it rarely go only once. m

WINE GAMES The emperor may or may not be wearing clothes — and the nuance of that merlot may or may not be jammy. For the layperson, determining the qualities and flavors of wine can be tricky. Those wanting to test their taste buds can head to San Francisco’s RN74 for a friendly game of Flying Blind, a guided tasting of three unidentified wines served with a cheat sheet of descriptions; the goal is to match the glass with the varietal. This fruit-based fun is part of the restaurant’s new wine program, created by lead sommelier David Castleberry. “I want to offer a number of avenues for oenophiles to test and elevate their knowledge and encounter new and rare wines in a comfortable and relaxed setting,” he says. Other offerings include Magnum Mondays, when a special magnum is opened and offered by the glass; Half Bottle Hump Day, with 50 percent off certain half-bottles on Wednesdays; and Unicorn Wines, featuring rare and unique bottles by the glass. This program continues throughout the year. michaelmina.net MIMI TOWLE

Raise a Glass to Jack

Chances are you’ve heard of Jack London. The oyster pirate turned famous author, despite his short life and limited traveling options (on sailboats only), visited more countries than most of us ever will. You might not have known that London was also a middle school dropout who took up writing only after recounting his near-death experience on a seal-hunting ship in a typhoon to his mother, who encouraged him to enter a writing contest run by the local paper. He won the first prize of $25. Today, he is honored by a namesake lake in Russia, a mountain in British Columbia, a square in Oakland, a state park and a postage stamp, among other things. But his name has yet another tie: “Jack London (wines) are some of California’s oldest and most successful vineyard-designated wines in the country,” says Kenwood Vineyards chief winemaker Pat Henderson. “He was also a pioneer of sustainable farming, practices he had learned from his time in Europe.” After the 1903 publication of Call of the Wild, London found his way to Sonoma to pursue his soul mate. He purchased some land and eventually acquired even more property on the steep slopes of Sonoma Mountain. He and his wife (he got the girl) called it Beauty Ranch. After his early death at age 40 in 1916, London’s stepsister Eliza Shepard took over management of the property, and her descendants are still sustainably farming the land today. Another tradition is the continued 40-year relationship with Kenwood Vineyards, which sources exclusively from the ranch, producing award-winning merlot, zinfandel, syrah and cabernet. As a nod to the wine’s heritage, each label is emblazoned with the wolf head, which was Jack London’s bookplate logo in many of his novels. And if you look closely, you can see the abstract wolf homage in the latest iteration of Kenwood’s logo. The winery is open to the public for hiking and tasting. kenwoodvineyards.com/jack-london M.T.

STAKE YOUR CLAIM Was I a shoe or a rabbit? As cute as wine glass ID charms can be, after the second glass it’s hard to remember which charm goes with which party guest. A solution to this problem comes in the form of the Wine Glass Writer, the brainchild of Marin’s Jeannine Fradelizio. The nontoxic, festive pens have not only caught on locally and with major retailers nationwide; they’re also sold in seven countries. And not to worry: the ink washes right off. M.T.

Pack Up

Head to wine country this month for new activities that will delight your palate and senses. M.T.

An Agent of Taste

Jean-Charles Boisset (pictured below), affectionately known as the James Bond–like Agent 69 on YouTube and now heading up his family’s vast winery empire, has recently opened JCB Tasting Salon in Yountville. And next door is Atelier by JCB, a gourmet epicurean marketplace offering up culinary treats such as salts, mustards and honey from Boisset’s winery estates and hand-selected smoked salmon, caviar, anchovies, truffles, foie gras, terrines, charcuterie, more than 120 cheeses, chocolate, specialty teas and coffees from his travels. Retail offerings will include JCB’s custom-designed jewelry collection, candles and perfumes as well as luxury goods, including Lalique, Baccarat, Christofle, and Bernardaud porcelain. In the tasting room, the JCB collection of French and Napa Valley wines will be featured in three distinctive flights. “We are ecstatic to share our vision of wine

lifestyle, where wine is at the center of life and is surrounded by beauty and art,” says Boisset. “JCB represents the producers and houses that we adore the most, whose wares have been curated for years, and that we desire to share with the world as an extension of our lifestyle and savoir-vivre.” jcbcollection.com M.T.

1Taste Tour The gourmet food and wine tour Savor Healdsburg has recently added a few new spots to its three-and-a-half-hour guided walking tour. “In 2016 guests will enjoy new menu items such as Portuguese vino verde paired with chouriço-crusted day boat scallops at Cafe Lucia, a dish inspired by the island where Lucia’s family is from,” says tour organizer Tammy Gass. Other stops include SHED, Gustafson Family Vineyards and Moustache Baked Goods. $89, savorhealdsburgfoodtours.com 2 Lights Out For a truly unique wine tasting experience, head up to Francis Ford Coppola Winery in Geyserville for one of its new “Tasting in the Dark” experiences. Hosted by Hoby Wedler, a blind graduate student from UC Davis, guests will learn how flavors and aromas in wine are accentuated by turning off he lights. Participants are blindfolded and led through the winemaker’s lab. The tour takes two hours and includes four wines. $75, francisfordcoppolawinery.com 3 View Vines Starting this month, Jordan Estate in Healdsburg is offering hikes on its 1,200-acre ranch. The guided journey begins with a continental breakfast at Vista Point, called the “best view in the Alexander Valley” by Fodor’s. The trip continues for four miles through natural wildlife habitat, sustainably farmed vineyards and olive orchards. The hike ends back at the Winery Chateau for wine country charcuterie paired with Jordan chardonnay and Jordan cabernet sauvignon. $75, jordanwinery.com

NEW LOOK, NEW TASTES This summer, St. Helena’s Freemark

Abbey winery is celebrating its 130th anniversary with a complete makeover and the addition of a new restaurant called Two Birds One Stone. “We brought on SB Architects and BraytonHughes Design Studio from San Francisco, who will focus on preserving the 100-year-old historic stone building while introducing modern updates, including a dedicated space for the winery’s unrivaled wine library — one of the largest in the Napa Valley,” says Ted Edwards, Freemark Abbey’s director of winemaking. The winery is also renovating the historic tasting room. The new yakitori-centric restaurant will be headed by notable California chefs Douglas Keane and Sang Yoon. freemarkabbey.com M.T.